editors note Happy Fall! I have to say this issue is our most special yet. If you haven’t noticed the amazing Helen Marnie is on our cover! You may know her from Ladytron and her amazing musical talents and her cheeky style. We have an amazing interview by Rocio Frausto running alongside photos by the talented Anthony Webster-King who has been with the magazine since inception. It’s truly an honor that Jute gets to run this story, and I hope our readers love it as much as I do! The story also features the amazing designs of Som Kerdsiri with styling by the talented duo Kirsty Halliday and Stuart Truesdale, all hailing from Glasgow. Besides our fabulous cover story we have hordes of beautiful editorial work and three very special interviews with up and coming designers that I’m currently obsessing over. Needless to say the issue is full of wonder and all I can say is that I’m excited to share it with you. XOXO Lynzi
on the cover cover star Helen Marnie photographer: Anthony Webster-King @ BigBad Llama, stylists: Kirsty Halliday and Stuart Truesdale @ I’ll Be Your Mirror, hair: Reece Phimister, makeup: Ana Cruzalegui, nails: Sarah Gingell, fashion assistant: Mark McCall location: The Gray Room, Glasgow story by Rocio Frausto top by Isabel Marant available at Harvey Nichols
lynzi judish Editor-in-Chief Magazine Graphic Design
dave brown Web Developer
matthew vita Webitorial Graphic Designer
olivia Louden resident writer, captions
rocio frausto guest writer
john edinger guest wrter
jacket by Isabel Marant available at Cruise, scarf worn as top by SilkSelf and skirt by Acne Studios available at Harvey Nichols
Editor’s Picks Fall is here, and if you’re as excited as I am, you’re already wearing your sweaters and jackets (even if it’s not cold enough to wear them) and drinking Pumpkin Spice lattes. It’s not basic, it’s delicious! But just because it’s fall doesn’t mean you need to swap your summer colors for blacks and grays. Here are some of my favorite colorful picks for the season, plus some tried and true basic staples that will make your closet happy. XOXO Lynzi
1
Undress Lonely Joy dress - €151
available at www.iwearundress.com
2 3
Tamar blush jacket - €1120 available at TAMAR showroom, Yaroslaviv Val 30a, Kiev, Ukraine www.tamarfashion.com
Harcourt “The
Cranbook” watch - € 173 available at www.harcourt-watches.com
4
Karen Walker super duper strength
accetate sunglasses - €220 available at www.luisaviaroma.com, image courtesy of TRENDFORTREND
5
LAUTEM My Funny Valentine (Verde) bag - €718 available at www.lautemshop.com
6
Max&Co. Nappa leather gloves
with metal elements - €129 available at it.maxandco.com, image courtesy of TRENDFORTREND
10
7
Anya Marokko
Yuzzo London
embroidery wool coat - €731 available at www.yuzzolondon.com
8
red matching separates - €346 top and €288 skirt available at the Anya Marokko studio in Bethnal Green or via email studio@anyamarokko.com
Miu Miu emerald suede coat - €3,900 available at www.mytheresa.com, image courtesy of TRENDFORTREND
9
Cruz Bueno
woven tweed jacket - €576 available at www.cruzbueno.com
11 13
CINTI leather ankle
boot - €119 available at www.cinti.it, image courtesy of TRENDFORTREND
Sevda London 100% silk twill British Tulip Garden Violet scarf €202 available at www. sevdalondon.com
14
Genevieve Sweeney
Ava Nightsky Jumper, 100% Alpaca, Raglan rib jumper - €288 available at www.genevievesweeney.com
12
Josefinas Sophie bag - large bag €795 small bag €495 available at www.josefinas.com
FALL
124 Urban Spirit
photographed by Fred Leveugle
Couture
photo by THANH TRAN
3 Editors Note 4 Editors Picks
Fall favorites without sacrificing color, plus staples for your seasonal wardrobe
108 Cover Story
Interview with Helen Marnie by Rocio Frausto and photos by Anthony Webster-King
Editorial
10 All in a Day
photographed by Tracey Morris
24 Blue Horizon
photographed by Manny Fontanilla
58 Windstruck
photographed by Thanh Tran
66 Witchcraft
photographed by Salim Berrada
90 Goldmarie & Pechmarie photographed by Sigrid Mayer
116 Dreaming in Color
photographed by Tereza Janakova
136 Hello, Spacegirl!
photographed by Gioconda and August
Featured Designer
76 Angelys Balek
story by John Edinger
132 Nobi Talai
story by Olivia Louden
Featured Label
44 Destin
story by Olivia Louden
Tallinn Style
48 Under Cover
photographed by Lynzi Judish
Beauty
38 Colour Red
photographed by Marina Dean-Francis
Style
80 Skyline
photographed by Domenico Petralia
100 Early Bird
photographed by Ella Nash
editorial
10 Jute Magazine / fall 2016
silk crepe de chine camisole top by TIBI - €141 available at Saks Fifth Avenue, classic skinny silk neck scarf by Rockins - €150 www.rockins.co.uk, “Curtis” window pane woold trouser by Teatum Jones - €556 available at Saks Fifth Avenue or Net-A-porter, “Lily” clutch in creme surrey by Brahmin - €192 www,brahim.com, and leather headband by Colette Malouf €57 www.colettemalouf.com
ll A
y a D in a
Vintage flare meets urban attitude on the streets of New York in Tracey Morris’ fabulously chic editorial.
photography by Tracey Morris styling by Ursula M. Agurto hair/makeup: Paul Venoit @ Wilhelmina NYC model: Anastasiia Ivanova @ Supreme Management NYC photography assistant: Robert Morris styling assistant: Kim Richman
opposite page: “Saylor” chiffon blouse by Diane Von Furstenberg - €266 available at DVF Boutiques, “Camry” shorts by Diane Von Furstenberg - €177 available at DVF Boutiques, “Boyfriend” leather belt by Nordstrom - €143 available at shop.nordstrom. com, “Jolet” perforated over the knee boot by Diane Von Furstenberg - €534 availabe at DVF Boutiques, and embellished satin vest by Noon by Noor - €1806 available at www.noonbynoor.com this page: striped button down shirt dress by Noon by Noor - €480, www,noonbynoor. com, 18k gold plated ring by Baumgarten di Marco €338 available at High Gloss 713.961.7868 www.highglosshouston.com, “Reem” necklace with amethyst pendant by Rachel Mulherin - €179, www.rachelmulherin.com and oversized gradient sunglasses by Linda Farrow - €575 available at Avenue 32 www. avenue32.com
“Chevel” jacket by Tory Burch - €798 available at Tory Burch Boutiques and “Carnavalet” neckerchief by Tory Burch - €112 available at Tory Burch Boutiques
“Loran” sweater vest by Diane Von Furstenberg - €239 available at DVF Boutiques, origami fold mini skirt by Halston - €201 available at Halston Boutiques, “Roller” printed crinkle chiffon blouse by Vassallo - €266 www. vassallortw.com, velour floppy hat by Artikal Handcrafted Millinery - €161 www.artikal. com, “Candy Gang Sugar” mini bag by Furla - €355 www.furla. com, and “Jolet” perforated over the knee boot by Diane Von Furstenberg - €534 available at DVF Boutiques
printed silk cami by Halston - €174 available at Halston Boutiques, classic skiny silk neck scarf by Rockins - €150 www.rockins.co.uk, stylist’s own faux goat hair trim, topper orbiting feather earrings by Haus of Topper - €107 www. hausoftopper.com, and 24k gold plated brass and enamel cuff by Brendan Cannon for Pluma - €241 www.pluma-italia.net
ultra suede mini dress by Halston - €531 available at Halston Boutiques, “Daria” striped wool blend jacket by UseUnused - €606 available at House of 29, NY 914.861.2928 and www.useunused.com, floppy brim fedora by Rag & Bone - €174 available at Saks Fifth Avenue, tiger eye necklace with 18k gold plated double bamboo pendant by Harrison Morgan - €343, www.harrisonmorgan-nyc.com, assorted gold plated bangles and rings by Marshelly’s Jewelry - €85-€170 www.marshellys.com, and “Cara” suede boots by Alexis Gamblin - €731 www.alexisgamblin.com
silk crepe de chine camisole top by Tibi - €141 available at Saks Fifth Avenue, “Curtis” window pane wool trouser by Teatum Jones €555 available at Saks Fifth Avenue and Net-A-Porter, faux fur coat by Tadashi Shoji - €346 available at Tadashi Shoji Boutiques, leather headband by Colette Malouf - €56 www.colettemalouf.com, and Valena stretch leather booties by Aquatalia - €441 available at Saks Fifth Avenue
“Ilyssa” top by Diane Von Furstenberg €310 available at DVF Boutiques, “Stanton” wide leg pant by Diane Von Furstenberg €399 available at DVF Boutiques, stylist’s own vintage scarf by Oscar De La Renta, “Georgina” wool fedora by Eugenia Kim - €334 available at Saks Fifth Avenue, “Rose” in garnet necklace by Haus of Topper - €160 www.hausoftopper.com, and 18k gold cuff with tiger eye by Eddera - €267 www.edderra.com
green embroidered blouse by LIE SANGBONG - €927 available at LIE SANGBONG Boutique, 30 Ganesvoort St., NYC 212.924.2025
editorial
Manny Fontanilla brings edgy lace and leather to the beach in the Netherlands and ties summer scenery to fall looks
blue Horizon photography by Manny Fontanilla stylist: Maureen Cloesmeijer hair/makeup: Wout Philippo models: Rosanne Louwers and Xanthe Wijma @ De Boekers photography assistant: Stefano location: Hoek Van Holland Beach
maxi dress in lace by Noisey May, embrodered mesh dress by H&M Trend, and both earrings by H&M
Jute Magazine / fall 2016 25
faux leather dress by Zara, statement necklace by Forever 21, and “Valerie� panty by Wolford
“Plisse” palazzo trousers by Zara, hat by H&M, stylist’s own scarf
tuxedo long line blazer by Sisley, sequin leggings by TFNC, pointed kitten heeled “Chelsea” boots by ASOS, and velvet choker by ASOS
faux leather dress by Zara, statement necklace by Forever 21, “Valerie” panty by Wolford, and “Trudy” platform ankle boots by Truffle Collection
trousers by Ralph Lauren, over the knee boots with peep toe by Missguided, and “Matador” felt hat by ASOS
halter neck crop top by Zara, long pleated faux leather skirt by Lure, and “Trudy” platform ankle boots by Truffle Collection
“Plisse” palazzo trousers by Zara, hat by H&M, stylist’s own scarf
faux leather dress by Zara, statement necklace by Forever 21, “Valerie” panty by Wolford, and “Trudy” platform ankle boots by Truffle Collection
faux fur by H&M Trend, swimsuit by Bhig Buda Outfitters, and earrings and rings by H&M
maxi dress in lace by Noisey May, embrodered mesh dress by H&M Trend, and both earrings by H&M
beauty
skin: Smashbox water BB foundation, cheeks: MAC Cosmetics Quick Trick Stick in All Aflush, eyes: MAC Cosmetics Quick Trick Stick in All Aflush and MAC Cosmetics pigment in Rose, lips: MAC Cosmetics lipstick in Ruby Woo and MAC Cosmetics lip pencil in Cherry, nails: OPI nail polish in Big Red Apple
skin: MAC Cosmetics studio sculpt foundation, MAC Cosmetics Quick Trick Stick in Tight and Tawny for highlighting and contour, eyes: MAC Cosemetics kohl pencil in Feline, MAC Cosmetics pigment in old gold, Chanel Illusion D’Ombre eyeshadow in Griffith Green, Tarte Cosmetics Lights Camera Splashes mascara, lips: MAC Cosmetics liptick in Ruby Woo and MAC Cosmetics lip pencil in Cherry, nails: OPI nail polish in Big Red Apple
Color Red
Strong brows and vibrant lips: makeup artist Rebecca Butterworth makes a statement with bold and powerful shades. photography by Marina Dean-Francis, makeup by Rebecca Butterworth, model: Shehara, post-production: MDF Retouching
skin: MAC Cosmetics studio sculpt foundation, MAC Cosmetics Quick Trick Stick in Tight and Tawny for highlighting and contour, eyes: Bobbi Brown gel liner in Black and Nars The Matte Multiple in Cappadocce, lips: MAC Cosmetics liptick in Ruby Woo and MAC Cosmetics lip pencil in Cherry, nails: OPI nail polish in Big Red Apple
40 Jute Magazine / fall 2016
freckles: MAC Cosmetics lip pencil in Oak, Anastasia Beverly Hills brow wiz in Soft Brown, and MAC Cosmetics waterproof brow liner in Deep Brunette, skin: MAC Cosmetics studio scult foundation and MAC Cosmetics Quick Trick Stick in Tight and Tawny for highlight and contour, eyes: Illamasqua powder eyeshadow in Slink, Laura Mercier face illuminator in Gilded, and MAC Cosmetics Instacurl mascara, lips: MAC Cosmetics lipstick in Ruby Woo and MAC Cosmetics lip pencil in Cherry, nails: OPI nail polish in Big Red Apple
freckles: MAC Cosmetics lip pencil in Oak, Anastasia Beverly Hills brow wiz in Soft Brown, and MAC Cosmetics waterproof brow liner in Deep Brunette, skin: MAC Cosmetics studio scult foundation and MAC Cosmetics Quick Trick Stick in Tight and Tawny for highlight and contour, eyes: Illamasqua powder eyeshadow in Slink, Laura Mercier face illuminator in Gilded, and MAC Cosmetics Instacurl mascara, lips: MAC Cosmetics lipstick in Ruby Woo and MAC Cosmetics lip pencil in Cherry, nails: OPI nail polish in Big Red Apple
skin: Charlotte Tilbury Light Wonder foundation and MAC Cosmetics blusher in Margin, eyes: MAC Cosmetics glitter in Pink, MAC Cosmetics kohl pencil in Tarnish, and MAC Cosmetics extended play mascara, lips: MAC Cosmetics liptick in Ruby Woo and MAC Cosmetics lip pencil in Cherry, nails: OPI nail polish in Big Red Apple
Jute Magazine / fall 2016 43
featured label
DEstin
your new favorite scarf! by Olivia Louden Luxurious Italian scarf brand Destin has released a new unisex collection that celebrates the blurred lines between men’s and women’s through the use of representational contrasts and dichotomies. Destin, established in Milan in 2007, has become a premiere label for high end scarves. I was able to ask Francesco Colombo some questions about the FW16 collection and how scarves, in addition to showcasing good taste, should really feel like an old friend.
44 Jute Magazine / fall 2016
What is the theme behind this season’s collection? “Two”. This was the idea. Trying to show in every scarf two colours, two shades, two fabrics, two tones. Color blocking, fabric combination, two yarns in different colours twisted together, two sides in different materials, two unusual yarns woven in the same fabric. What do scarves symbolize? The scarf has become emancipated and the symbol of class and taste communicating the social status of who is wearing it, a square of textile able to define a brand, to define luxury, to define class. The scarf represents the mono product of this decade. How do your ideas of luxury influence your choices of fabric for each scarf? Like every season, we start the collection from raw material. Our supplier network, in the Biella area, every season evolves its own technology proposing a new spinning process or dyeing effect, but unfortunately they can’t find new raw materials. We always talk about cashmere, alpaca, super fine wool, silk. In scarves, my idea of luxury is first of all softness and secondary colours. What I always repeat to myself and to my staff, is that scarf is like a hug, it has value only if it is warm.
Jute Magazine / fall 2016 45
I noticed that several of your designs feature dark colors offset by a cheerful pattern, such as animal print. What can you tell me about that? Destin scarves collection would like to be from his beginning a unisex collection. We always present a large range of colours, but few of them are in our soul and come back every season. As an example, Mineral blue, Mud, burgundy, mineral black, and few more. Men’s traditional patterns crossing women’s fabrics and women’s designs printed or woven in men’s fabrics. There is no more border between man and woman. But always connected by this wide and recurrent range of colours. How can one use your scarves to pull together an entire outfit? Great question. I always ask the same question to my design staff. During these years of experience, I understood that the store buyer and, more than them, the final customer, loves to create his own look. But the “fil rouge “ is always the softness, the warm hug, the wonderful pleasure that we find when we wrap up the scarf. Finally, where are your designs available? Actually Destin scarves are available in more than 350 stores around the world. I summarize few names, such us, Antonia, Excelsior, Antonioli, Zita Fabiani, Vinicio, Merci, Le bon Marchè, Selfridges, Liberty, Lane Crawford, Isetan, Estnation, etc.
46 Jute Magazine / fall 2016
Jute Magazine / fall 2016 47
cardigan and skirt by River Island, earrings by Maris Loitmets available at Nu Nordik
u c
nder
over photography by Lynzi Judish, styling by Alli-Liis Vandel hair: Aili Puss, makeup: Erle Taklai model: Kati Viikmaa @ MJ Models, post-production: George Buczko photography assistant: Dave Brown
The editor takes us on a European adventure as we wander the streets of tallinn
tallinn style
Jute Magazine / fall 2016 49
dress by Iris Janvier, earrings and bracelet by New Vintage By Kriss available at Nu Nordik
trench coat by Kokomo Collection, shoes by Reserved, and earrings by TVJ by Tanel Veenre available at Nu Nordik
coat by Pohjanheimo, blouse and pants by Reserved, shoes by Aldo, and earrings by New Vintage By Kriss available at Nu Nordik
coat by Perit Muuga Fashion
coat by Alli-Liis Vandel, earrings by New Vintage By Kriss available at Nu Nordik, and ring by SECO available at Nu Nordik
vintage blouse, bra by Private Collection, skirt by Pohjanheimo, and brooch by Ivar Kaasik available at Nu Nordik
dress by Iris Janvier, vintage shawl, shoes by Aldo, earrings by New Vintage By Kriss available at Nu Nordik, ring by SECO available at Nu Nordik
cardigan worn as dress by Pohjanheimo and earrings by Maris Loitmets available at Nu Nordik
editorial
Windstruck
Photographer Thanh Tran captures the surreal essence of brocade, velvet, and silk against the background of nature. photography by Thanh Tran
stylist: Zoe Zhou hair: Hailey Adickes @ Celestine Agency LA makeup: Stephanie Rodriguez model: Rachel Flett @ Two Management LA assistant: Daniel Nguyen
opposite page: coat by Idan Cohen, gown by Yousef and blouse by Jill Stuart this page: gown by St. John, blouse by Designer Remix, hat by Giovannio, and flower pin by Gucci
Jute Magazine / fall 2016 59
this page: gown by Yousef, blouse by Jill Stuart and earrings by Oscar de la Renta opposite page: cropped peackock jacket by Falguni & Shane Peacock, gown by Femme D’Armes, mock turtleneck bodysuit by Designer Remix and hat by Rag & Bone
gown by Zara Umrigar Couture, top by Haney and vintage belt
Hanro slip dress and Anglo Couture choker
opposite page: top by Proenza Schouler, skirt by Balmain and hat by Giovannio this page: Mac Duggal dress and Anglo Couture choker
editorial
Witchcraft Ready for a Gothic celebration? Come one, come all, to the Witch’s Ball. photographer: Salim Berrada, stylist: Romain Brau @ Arrangement Agency Paris hair/makeup: Angèle Caspar, model: Xanthi @ DMG Agency Paris assistant: Quentin Vaquez
opposite page: cape by Liska by Romain Brau, dress by Romain Brau, lingerie by Etam, shoes by Christian Louboutin, feather headress couture by Romain Brau and brooch by Alice Mabileau this page: dress by Romain Brau, corset by Lizard Gabriel, gloves by D Roman Liska by Romain Brau and pins by Alice Mabileau
Jute Magazine / fall 2016 67
neckpiece by Romain Brau
armbands and body pieces by Second Skin by Gabriel D, stole by Liska by Romain Brau and couture hat by Romain Brau
coat by Liska by Romain Brau and bag and shoes by Christian Louboutin
cape by Liska by Roman Brau, couture dress by Romain Brau and pin by Alice Mabileau
haute couture dress by On Aura Tout Vu
beetkes wings dress by On Aura Tout Vu, crown by Alice Mabileau for Gabriel D and bracelet and necklace by Alice Mabileau
D Feather “We’ve Seen Everything” goose feather haute couture cape by Romain Brau and neck sculpture jewelry by Vanessa Pinto
angelys balak by John Edinger Angelys Balek is a Thai-American designer. Her work has appeared in publications such as Elle, Marie Claire, and Harper’s Bazaar among others. Having been born in the United States, in combination with her experiences abroad, have set her apart. She has received a degree from the University of Bangkok, in fine art, and a second degree from the London College of Design, in fashion design. Those experiences along with her western roots have shaped her style. She has combined two cultures, which inspire her approach saying she “takes a painterly approach to color and proportion successfully balancing eastern artisanship with western culture and design.” She also considers herself as an artist before a designer saying “My patterns are my original artwork, translated from canvas to cloth.” Her collection “Maverick” was inspired by a floral arrangement given to her as a gift. The beauty compelled her to look at the colors and shapes of the arrangement through an actual microscope. She describes the look as “anatomy of a flower when viewed through a microscope”. How would you describe this collection? Where did you get your inspiration for this collection? “Maverick” was inspired by the anatomy of a flower when viewed through a microscope. Taking inspiration from a stunning floral arrangement that was sent to me as a gift, I was
What was a lesson you learned while or after making the collection? I learn with each collection release and while in the process of designing. It is always a two steps forward, one step backward, and I believe it is important to always be learning. I learn every day from the Angelys Balek cus-
instantly intrigued by the bouquet’s unique long wooden stems, captivating colors, and unusual shapes, which prompted me to look deeper into the arrangement through an actual microscope. This process allowed me to develop a different perspective on one of my favorite creations of nature, thus introducing new patterns and colors in our already distinctive prints. Combining these with furs & leathers, a first for our brand, we were able to really broaden our horizons and appeal to a bigger fashion audience.
tomers, buyers and critiques on what is popular and what does not sell well. Our collections have elevated in terms of fabrications and designs from season to season and we will continue to grow with each season that passes. What are some of your interests in life that are reflected in the work? I like to travel to places of nature that can inspire. Every collection I produce is inspired in some way by nature; this Fall/Winter season by a simple flower, and Spring/Summer 2017 by the beaches in Thailand.
featured designer
Jute Magazine / fall 2016 77
How does this collection exemplify your style? I would describe my style as comfy, feminine and modern which reflects in all my designs and fabrics. I create flowy pieces with colorful prints to reflect femininity and I experiment with fabrics for comfort. Do you always have a starting place, or similar process in all of your collections, or does it vary project to project? Every season is a little different and a little better both in technique and style. I learn from past seasons and experiment with new fabrics and techniques each season. For the Fall/Winter 2016 season, I did a lot of pleating and for Spring/Summer 2017, I used a lot of ruffles. It definitely varies based on the inspiration, so you can say my starting place for each season is finding inspiration and working from there. What were some of the fabrics that were used for this series, and how did you select them? Are they frequently used in other collections? For this season, I used both fabrics that have worked well in the past and have added new fabrics. I continued to use viscose and silk blends this season but have expanded by using fur and leathers. These were both new fabrics introduced that have never been used in any past collections. I source our fabrics at exclusive vendors that I carefully select based on the direction and mood of the collection.
How would you like to see your work featured, or who could you envision wearing the clothes? I seek a woman who is not afraid to be an evolutionist and take chances with modern designs, someone who is constantly evolving in their own personal style. Some celebrities that inspire the collection are Lana Del Rey, Lykke Li, and Emma Watson. What do you think separates you as a designer, and what do you want the viewers to know about you, and your brand? I am an artist before a designer so I think the way I think and create styles differentiates me from most designers. My patterns are my original artwork, translated from canvas to cloth. This is very important to me and I think when customers and viewers learn this about the brand, they appreciate the designs that much more. Where would you like to take your brand? I want to be a global luxury lifestyle brand that can cover many categories including ready-to-wear, swimwear and accessories. I’d like to expand into home dÊcor and have my prints on everything from pillows to comforters.
S skyline
Model Kristi Welch becomes one with the city in a showcase of urban modernity.
photographer: Domenico Petralia art director: Joanna Gyamera stylist: Rod Novoa grooming: Cassi Renee using MAC Cosmetics model: Kristi Welch @ RE:QUEST Models fashion assistant: JC Fernandez assistant: Giovanni Famulari special thanks to Judge Me
80 Jute Magazine / fall 2016
style
black jacket by Dior, camel turtleneck by Ralph Lauren, grey cropped pants by Rag & Bone and shoes by Gentle Souls
grey dress by Hilton Hollis
vest and shorts by Rag & Bone, sweatshirt and socks by J Crew and shoes by Zara
olive coat by Annie P., t-shirt and pants by Margiela and shoes by Zara
shirt by Julia Jentzsch
sweater by 7DAYSLONDON, neck piece by Margiela and bag by Filippo Fanini
coat by Annie P., red turtleneck and pants by Ralph Lauren, boots by Givenchy, gloves by La Crasia and vintage bag
shirt by Ralph Lauren, leather skirt by Neil Barret, mesh tee by Adidas and shoes by Zara
coat and blouse by Julia Jentzsch and pants by Ralph Lauren
editorial
opposite page: pullover by Tara Jarmon available at www. mondialmode.com and skirt by Isabel Marant this page: on Giulia: coat by Raphael Caric on Claudia: top by Raphael Caric
&
A blend of harsh dystopian moods and soft, fall looks, photographer Sigrid Mayer finds a balance between comfort and strength.
GOLDMARIE PECHMARIE photographer: Sigrid Mayer, stylist: Guy Debast hair/makeup: Christine Akbaba, models: Claudia and Giulia @ Diverso Models
Jute Magazine / fall 2016
91
on Giulia: coat by Raphael Caric on Claudia: top by Raphael Caric and skirt by Tara Jarmon available at www. mondialmode.com
dress by Juergen Christian Hoerl Atelier
pullover and pants by Maliparmi
on Claudia: pullover by Maliparmi On Giulia: dress by Alwa Petroni
on Claudia: dress by Claus Tyler On Giulia: dress and hat by Alwa Petroni
jacket and pants by Raphael Caric, pullover by Better Rich available at www. mondialmode.com and bag by Papier Langackerhäusl available at www. runwayvienna.com
b
blouse by Pinko and skirt by Juergen Christian Hoerl Atelier
b
on Giulia: dress by Patrizia Pepe on Claudia: blouse by Pinko
style
y l ra d ir
E B
photographer: Ella Nash stylist: Jenny Holmes hair: Casey Hill using Bumble and Bumble makeup: Sukhy Bhandal model: Ally Jo @ NEXT Model Management styling assistant: Amy Simmons
The early bird catches the worm! Model Ally Jo is a pop of color and confidence on front steps and in cafes.
101 Jute Magazine / fall 2016
coat by Milusha London, top by Samsoe and Samsoe, trousers by Leo 100, and necklace and bracelet by Dinny Hall
red blazer by Miss Sixty, grey coat on shoulder by Samsoe and Samsoe, top by James Lakeland, glasses by Finest Seven and earrings by Dinny Hall
blazer and trousers by Renli Su bag by Cambridge Satchel Company
coat by Samsoe and Samsoe, shirt by Miss Sixty, skirt as top by PPQ, trousers by Victor Xenia, glasses by Claire Goldsmith and earrings by Dinny Hall
top and trousers by S for Shoko, trainers by Chiara Ferragni, bag by Elena Ghisellini and necklace and bracelet by Uno de 50
coat and top by Samsoe and Samsoe, shirt and trousers by Leo 100 and heels by Paul Andrew
coat by Judy Wu top and trousers by Miss Sixty bag by Baia earrings by Dinny Hall
cover story
dress and swimsuit by Som Kerdsiri and sunglasses by Oscar & Fitch
story by rocio frausto
helen marnie photographer: Anthony Webster-King @ BigBad Llama stylists: Kirsty Halliday and Stuart Truesdale @ I’ll Be Your Mirror hair: Reece Phimister, makeup: Ana Cruzalegui using MAC Cosmetics and REN Skincare nails: Sarah Gingell, fashion assistant: Mark McCall studio: The Gray Room, Glasgow
jacket by Som Kerdsiri, top by Wildfox available at Harvey Nichols, trousers by Rachel Caldwell and shoes by Topshop
110 Jute Magazine / fall 2016
A
A blaze of neon lights bejeweled by a spectrum of saturated hues from sold out world tours in Great Britain, Mexico, Indonesia and Singapore. Electrifying the Electro Pop scene since 1999, Ladytron has also produced remixes for Goldfrapp, Christina Aguilera and Nine Inch Nails. Modeled on the paradigm of British design group, Hypgnosis and inspired by the poignant sounds of Kate Bush and Serge Gainsbourg. Ladytron has reached critical acclaim with five baroque n‘roll studio albums. Gravity, The Seducer peaked at 72 from UK Albums chart and 112 on the Billboard 200. Harmonizing on the wings of the horizon stretching to the temples of landmark architecture. A rotating Perlan glass dome and geothermal Blue Lagoon spa originating from Iceland - the dreamscape for Ladytron’s vocalist, Helen Marnie’s first solo album. A bespoke enchantment with commitment to analog synth legends, Solina String Synthesizer and Korg MS-1-10 - the transformative portal from Celtic charm of Glasgow based and celebrated songstress, Helen Marnie.
dress and swimsuit by Som Kerdsiri, sunglasses by Oscar & Fitch and shoes by Topshop
T
Rocio: Tell me about your first meeting to develop your second album? What factors determined your artistic decisions as you were preparing songs the for new album in contrast to the dreamy arctic escapist fantasy of Crystal World? What tools and instruments did you experiment with during production of your second solo album? Helen: Crystal World was a great success. It exceeded my expectations in terms of its reception. I was nervous about putting my own re-
Ladytron. A Limited Edition 7’ Vinyl, Screen Print Poster and a 1998 Mini Cooper were included in the Music Campaign. How has this Music Campaign shaped your future music endeavors? How would you characterize your relationship with fans of Music Campaign? Helen: The music industry is ever changing so I think everyone is just trying to work out how to make things happen and get their music our there. It is no easy feat. Pledge was a success but it was not easy. Pretty much everyone who bought Crystal World was cool. They were in it for the music. The all loved what I’d done with Ladytron so were really interested to see where
cord out there, having had the cocoon of Ladytron. But eventually, post release, it gave me a lot more confidence. I thought ‘I can actually do this’. So, soon I was writing again with the prospect of making another record. Having made Glasgow my home (4 years ago today, exactly) I was eager to meet people I could work and collaborate with. Iain from Chvrches put me in touch with producer Jonny Scott, and after my initial email going into his spam folder, we eventually met and began making music together. He understood what I wanted to do. Album two will not be like Crystal World. Even before I started writing I knew the direction I
I went next and they wanted to be a part of that. I appreciate their loyalty and I hope I gave them back enough. Rocio: A Nordic island where fire and ice co-exist; characterized by massive glaciers; geothermal power and roaring volcanoes. Tell me about the role Iceland had in the development stage of your first solo album, Crystal World? What challenges did you encounter from your transition of Electro band to Soloist? Helen: I absolutely love Iceland, and Reykjavik was an amazing place to record, however, much as I would like to say that it was a huge inspiration to me, the real inspiration was Scotland. The country I was born to, and the country I would be moving back to in 2012 after being away for 12 years. I was working with a producer in Iceland who had his studio there, and so that’s where everything was recorded. All the demo-ing had been done previous to that, so no new songs were actually written there. One of the things that got to me was that I did get some flack from people who thought my record was ‘too’ Ladytron, or not Ladytron ‘enough’. There was also what seemed like criticism for working with my bandmate as producer. It was almost as if people thought that because I was
wanted to go in. Crystal World took a lot out of me emotionally. There have been gigs I’ve done when I’d have to hold back tears mid song. So, while this new record has its moments of emotion, I think it deals with them in a very different way. Oh, and it’s fun. Between Jonny and myself we managed to harvest quite a stash of vintage synths. The Juno 106 features heavily, along with newer instruments such as the Moog Sub Phatty. I think the record is a war between digital and analogue. Rocio: Crystal World debuted as your first solo album in partnership with Pledge Music since
working with another Ladytron member that it was all their work, not mine. But, as is often the case, more credit is given to male musicians than female artists. Like, there must be a man behind the music. I have no problem collaborating with people and giving credit where it’s due. Rocio: A global phenomenon, Gravity The Seducer album toured the UK, Mexico and Singapore as seventy two on UK Albums Chart. How would you describe the collaborative process in the studio for Gravity The Seducer? Do you have special anecdotes from your extensive worldwide tours? Helen: What goes on tour stays on tour. Ladytron have toured so hard and extensively there’s just too much information to compute. Gravity The Seducer was recorded in a house studio in Sussex with lots of cats roaming the grounds, horses, and a ping pong table in the live room. When I wasn’t singing I’d mainly just talk to animals for sanity. Recording can be a very intense experience. We normally write remotely, then possibly pass on for collaboration. The music really comes into its own in the studio though. Over the last couple of years, the only gigs I’ve done are Marnie solo gigs, and I have to say they have been the most fun ever! Chile & Peru were pretty wild, as was the boat from Sweden to Finland. It felt like I was a kid again, touring for the first time. It’s a good feeling.
dress and swimsuit by Som Kerdsiri
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Rocio: “The band’s fusion of glistening electro and melodic drama have had them described as cinematic” according to an interview for ArtRocker. Collaborating with notable directors like Chino Moya and Neil Krug. How much creative freedom do you have in establishing the visual style of the music videos for solo albums and Ladytron? Did you also contribute to the artwork and packaging for solo albums and Ladytron? Helen: Ladytron has always had a lot of creative control and we have lead the way with our own album art and videos. I think it’s much easier for bands now to just do their own thing. There are no big advances, people are making the most with what they’ve got. Getting friends involved rather than going through labels. For Crystal World I knew where I wanted to shoot the cover and press shots. There is a disused swimming pool in Glasgow called Govanhill Baths. It’s an amazing place. They are desperately trying to raise funds to refurb the pool and building, and I was living in Govanhill at the time, so I knew where I wanted to spend my small budget. My friend, Lisa Devine, who is a brilliant photographer came on board and the outcome was pretty great. Rocio: What are your forthcoming projects and what is next for Ladytron? Helen: My main focus right now is getting my 2nd album out. It’s finished now, but it will take time to be released. I’ll get a single out first. I feel like I’ve had it under wraps for so long I’m literally bursting to get some music out. I’ve got some things tied in around the release, but nothing I can go into detail about yet. Ladytron will regroup again next year, with the intention of releasing new music.
entire look by Som Kerdsiri
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editorial
Dreaming in
COLOR
Quirky vintage style and artsy, bohemian vibes in dreaming in color by tereza janakova photographer: Tereza Janakova, art director: Emilie Maslow @ Art Department stylist: Hilary Folks, hair/makeup: Heidi Nymark @ Art Department using NARS model: Isabel Jones @ Muse Managment Portland, casting by Curated Casting, location: House by Donna Baxter
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blouse by Malene Berger and turban by Givenchy
coat by Zara gold pleated trouser by Ripley Rader bralette by For Love and Lemons shoes by Loeffler Randall belt by Ferragamo glasses by Chloe vintage blouse and purse
bomber jacket by Isabel Marant Etoile vest by Topshop skirt by Xenia available at sandylew.com shoes by CĂŠline hat by Gucci
blouse by Unique, skirt by Topshop, bow by Cara, vintage hat and purse
jacket by Kenzo, blouse and pleated pant by Topshop, shoes by Charlotte Stone, vintage turban
skirt by Tibi, shoes by Chloe, hat by Claudia Rapisardo, vintage top and belt
dress by Roberto Cavalli, scarf by MCM, sunglasses by Chloe, vintage coat
editorial
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opposite page: top and shoes by dsquared2 trousers by Harmony this page: combination jumpsuit by Greta Constantine
URBAN SPIRIT Dilapidated Beauty: One woman’s elegance stands out among decrepit halls. photographer: Fred Leveugle @ Wandaprint Agency, stylist: Marie Revelut hair/makeup: Flavio Nunes @ Backstage Agency, model: Renata S. @ Metropolitan Models
neckpiece by Nora Roiser
coat by Harmony
combination jumpsuit by Greta Constantine and shoes by dsqured2
jacket and trousers by Elisabetta Franchi
jacket by Bernard Gendrant and dress by Didit
top and skirt by Harmony
nobi Talai by Olvia Louden photos by Alexx & Anton Designer Nobieh Talaei’s FW16 collection calls to mind the simplistic, essential life of the free-spirited nomad. Born in Tehran, Iran, Talaei moved to Berlin at the age of eleven where she eventually completed her studies at ESMOD with a menswear collection, worked with interior design, and finally founded her label NOBI TALAI in 2015. Although every chapter of her life has had an impact on her constantly growing and evolving designs, the simple and nomadic lifestyle of those she knew as a little girl in Tehran is the most evident in her FW16. I was able to ask Talaei some questions about how her experiences and how they have inspired her.
I understand you were born in Teheran before moving to Berlin. How was your history in both of those locations affected your design style, particularly in the AW16 Collection? I was born in Tehran but moved to Berlin when I was 11. On the one hand I am inspired by Persian culture: the nomadic way of living, their textile works e.g. felted carpets, the minimalist and subtle colors. On the other hand I am of course influenced by German culture, a country where I have been living in for a long time. I was instantly fascinated by Bauhaus and Neue Sachlichkeit. Both cultures influence me equally when I design my collections. Your looks are full of interesting textures. How do you decide which fabrics to use together? Very intuitively. It comes very natural to me. How is the theme of nomadic life portrayed throughout the collection? It is not primarily the folkloristic elements that are inspiring to me. But the frugality and reduction. The beauty of simplicity. Embellishments are more intricate and taken from the way nomads knot and tie their garments. Nomads did not have any other choice but focus on
what is essential. Thus my designs are resting in themselves and are timeless pieces. I hear you also have a background in menswear and interior design. How have those experiences shaped your AW16 works? Designing menswear was definitely a great experience. And details definitely still continue to play into my designs. The furniture and design with its simple and clean shapes created during the first decade of the century serves as a great inspiration to my design process. What do you wish to inspire in those that wear your designs? My collections tell the tale of the modern day nomad. I want to instill an air of independence and freedom with a strong woman. The designs are meant to accompany their wearers for many seasons as they journey through life. Where are your designs available? I showed my third collection in Paris at the end of September this year. My other collections have so far been sold among others online at Stylebop, and in stores like Off&Co, as well as in our Showroom in Berlin. And finally where do you see your label going next? It is a journey and I am only at the beginning. With a lot of tenacity and diligence I am confident that I will grow from one collection to the next.
featured designer
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Step right in to the party of the future, where nature and galaxies collide.
, o le l
couture
H spacegirl! photographers: Gioconda and August designer/stylist: Dradi Matteo Dimitar hair/makeup: Giovanna Fucciolo model: Elisabeth @ Independent Mgmt
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jacket by Som Kerdsiri, top by Wildfox available at Harvey Nichols, trousers by Rachel Caldwell and shoes by Topshop