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1. Introduction 2. The Fabric

About the collection

Gambiered Gauze --- An eco fabric

3. Eco Deaign 4. Energy Conservation


1. Introduction About the collection


Sun silk is a collection that helps you against humidity sustainably in summer. It can provides you a cooler wearing experience than normal silk fabrics, there for helps you still feeling cool with a higher air condition temperature. The collection was made of a kind of special traditional Cantonese natural dye silk which has coolness reputation since the Ming dynasty. The fabric can provide you an extremely comfortable wearing experience and its special one-piece cutting enhance that function of the fabric.

According to some researches, domestic and business use of air conditioners is one of the main reasons that causes problem of power shortage. So many countries and organizations have begun to implement limitations of public air conditioning temperature. Although household air conditioning temperature has not been limited, we’d better restrain ourselves for energy saving, as we know resource of this planet is limited. A thermal resistant household wear can help to discourage excessive air conditioning use.Comments from wearers proved the sun silk collection helped them increased at least 1℃ compare to their usual sleeping temperature of air conditioning use at night.


2. The fabric Gambiered Gauze --- An eco fabric


Gambiered Gauze = Shouliang Yam + Silk + River Sludge + Sun light Gambiered Canton Gauze ( xiang yun sha), a processed silk fabric using a set of methods. It was initially produced

during the reign of Ming dynasty Emperor Yongle (1403AD-1424AD) and had its prime days in the 1920-1930s. Among textiles in fashion, is an extremely rare silkworm fabric that uses pure botanic dye. Such expensive, environment-friendly gauze is processed by soaking and dyeing it in the juice of dye yam (dioscorea cirrhoosa). It is then covered with pond sludge rich in minerals from rivers in Shunde and repeatedly sunned it to completion. After the processing, the fabric increases its thickness by 30% and weight by 40 %. Owing to the special factors in production, such as craftsmanship, climate, dye yam yield, etc., the output is small, which makes the gauze rare and valuable. As a result of pond mud adhering to the fabric, gambiered gauze feels cool and appears easy to be dry and resistant to reeling off or crease. Meanwhile, as dye yam (dioscorea cirrhosa) is a type of herbal medicine, serving to clear heat and reduce stasis and capable of preventing mildew, bacteria and bad smell, costumes made of gambiered gauze is said to have similar “therapeutic” effect as well. Affected by weather and handcraft, the fabric may have some black, red or white marks on the surface, which are natural and turn out to be the distinctive features from counterfeits. Owing to its coolness, gambiered gauze used to be summer wear of the landlords and wealthy people. The innovative gauze feels stiffer in old times when the washing technique was not advanced as now, whereby chemical washing power in used. Gambiered gauze rustles in wearing and thereby is also called “sounding gauze”(xiang yun sha). In the old times, the wealthy used to have the servants wear the gauze to make the material soften before they wore themselves. The fabric gets better and becomes more precious like aged mellow wine as time passes by.The complete natural processing and the durability of Gambiered Canton gauze make it a cool and environment- friendly fabric.


Eco Material

Original material : Habotai made grey fabric Dylon: Juice of Shouliang Liangg yam (dioscorea cirrhoosa) River sludge Sun light Its dying stuffs are all from the nature, which enable it creates almost zero polltion of the dying process.


Eco Manufacturing Preparing grey state fabric ↓ The prerequisites for the fabric’s dyeing and finishing are pond Soaking the fabric with dye yam sludge, dye yam and sunlight, which are sourced from nature with ↓ no chemicals added in processing. Needless to say, the sunlight is Basking the cleanest energy; pond mud can be used in the process many ↓ times and are discharged afterwards into the riverbed. Dye yam is Spraying yam juice a common herbal medicine and can help promote blood circulation ↓ and remove blood stasis. Thus, the fabric can also be effective in Soaking preventing skin disorders in the hot summer. In addition, dye yam ↓ residues can be used as manure fertiliser after being discharged Spraying from the factory. ↓ Soaking (repeat 10 times) ↓ Boiling in the dye juice → Spreading river sludge → washing → Soaking → Soften by dew on the grass ground


Eco Care Easy Maintenance Gambiered Gauze is oxyphilous while human sweat is slightly acidic. The fabric gets more and more supple and comfortable to wear as time goes by. Due to frequent absorption of sweat, Gambiered Gauze is not supposed to be washed in detergent. The creases on the gauze will disappear after it is washed in cool water and dried in the air. The material can get dry very fast and does not need machine-drying or ironing.

Durability Gambiered Gauze, as a top-quality silk, is often used for long-standing costumes. The properties of the material prove to be superb. The longer the wearing time, the more valuable it becomes. No wonder that older garments made of Gambiered Gauze are worthier than newly-made. Many experiences show that

20

Gambiered Gauze garments can

be in use for at least years and are free from mildew and decay because the elements of dye yam in the fabric are worm-proof. According to my research, the dioscorea cirrhoosa juice was use to make fabric stiffen in the past. Fish men from Chaozhou were used to use dioscorea cirrhoosa juice to make their fishnet tougher.


Although Gambiered Gauze has not been proved to be humid resistance by any scientific testing, however, its coolness reputation is recognized by wears.


The sun silk collection can helps you kick the habit of excessive air conditioning use. The unique river sludge treatment gave the fabric a special double side character. The gambiered gauze is glossy black on the surface and brown on the reverse. The inside of the gauze presents itself as supple and moisture-permeable while the front surface presents itself as rigidly strong and water-resistant. In addition, the sheen on the satin surface can reflect the sunlight and avoid heat- absorption. All these properties contribute to the coolness of Gambiered Canton gauze.


3. Eco Deaign


Eco features for design The collection was designed aim to create as less impact to the environment as possiable. So designer try to create as fewer materials as possible for the design: on piece cutting can not only enhance the comfortable feeling of the fabric, but also save threads; reuse all of the rag cuttings for the clothes' decoration; and the embroidery thread was drawn out from the fabric.


A durable fabric is ideal for making Unisex and unisize clothes that enable the cloth can be shared between family members, which enable happiness passing on by generations.

Simple cutting & Natural material The collection is could be fits for everyone in the family.


4. Energy Conservation


Air conditioning is the most power costly appliance, the higher the temperature we set in summer, the more energy we save.

To save 1kWh electricity is equivalent to save 0.4kg of coal burning for electricity power and 4 litres of pure water, which at the same time reduces emissions of 1kg carbon dioxide and 0.03kg sulphur dioxide (http://www.ptxw.com, 2010).

The Greenpeace China suggests us to use an air conditioning temperature 1℃ higher than what the government has advocated. If our air conditioner was set to be 1℃ above 26℃, 22 kWh will be saved by each air conditioner per year, alongside with the reduction of 21 kg carbon dioxide. It is estimated that 150 million air conditioner exist in China, if each of them was set to work in this way, 330 million kWh electricity power is expected to be saved, 3,170,000 tons emissions of carbon dioxide will disappear (http://www.greenpeace.org, 2010).


According to professor Zhong of the South China University of Technology, people feel comfortable at an indoor temperature of 2428℃. To set the air conditioner

1 kWh

enable:

A 25W bulb keep lighting for 40 hours A refrigerator keep running for 24 hours A fan keeping working for 15 hours An electronic bike driving for 80 km Watching 10 hours TV programe

at or above 26℃ not only allow people feel comfortable, but also make contributions to energy saving and reduce tension of power shortage (http://gd.sohu.com, 2007).

Boiling 8 kilolitre water

Let's take action to save energy: Setting your air conditioner thermistor to or above 26℃


Many people know about the 26℃ eco temperature of air conditioning, yet very few of them would like to suffer uncomfortable humidity for the environment. Research found many people sleep with long trousers and a quilt in the air conditioning room. For energy saving, what we should do firstly is to change our attitude of energy consume. Wearing the sun silk collection can help to reduce your dependence of low temperature of air conditioning use. It is the time think if we actually need to consume so much energy. Let's kick the habit of excessive energy consume. Use less air conditioner, breathe more fresh air and enjoy the summer.


Sludge acted as the soul of the making of the fabric. The quality of sludge may affect the quality of the fabric. Nowadays the riverbed can be polluted. Producers find it very difficult to seek clean and unpolluted sludge, which is also a reason of the industry’s decline.

From the design board to the tumble dryer, textile manufacturing has a huge environmental footprint. It pollutes as much as 200 tons of water per ton of fabric, uses a suite of harmful chemicals, and consumes tremendous amounts of energy for steam and hot water needed in dyeing and finishing processes (http://www.nrdc.org,2010).


Recent research of the Greenpeace China showed pollution caused by textile and garment manufacturing has been seriously harming many places of the Guangdong province. (http:// www.greenpeace.org, 2010) For you own health ans save the land, please be aware of fashion sustainability.


More information about the collection is now avaliable on

http://junjun611.hostzi.com/ Reference http://nf.nfdaily.cn/nfrb/content/2010-07/02/content_13391619.htm (2010) (Accessed: 11 August 2010) Wang, K. (2010) ‘Do you use the recommended 26℃ air conditioning temperature at home?’ Available at: http://www. ptxw.com/news/shjw/201008/16/104827_0.shtml (Accessed: 30 October 2010). http://www.greenpeace.org/china/zh/campaigns/stop-climate-change/take-action (2010) (Accessed: 11 August 2010). http://gd.sohu.com/20070626/n250773820.shtml (2007) (Accessed: 30 October 2010). http://www.nrdc.org/international/cleanbydesign/default.as Photo Xiang Yun Sha makding process. (c. 2008) Nanhai: The Shunde garveronment office publishing Model: Yun Chengcheng, Chu Ming & Lu Pengfei Photographer: Lu Yinyin and Liu Jiawen


Contact :

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Lu Yinyin Website: http://junjun611.hostzi.com/ E-mail: luyinyin_611@hotmial.com Tel: (+44)07898239724 (+86)13631490504

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