JungleDrums issue 75 November 2009

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6gZ i]Z cZmi Danbe^X ]dhih dc igVX` id hjXXZZY4 THE RIO DRUG WARS IN THE EYES OF AN OSCAR WINNER

WIN AN XMAS DINNER FOR TEN AND TICKETS FOR GILBERTO GIL

FIND OUT WHO IS BRASIL’S FITTEST BEAUTY

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month's film festivals, which cover some heavy issues like immigration and poverty - though a few comedies and romances lighten it up, too! Andrew Lang's Sons of Cuba puts ght... up a feisty little fight... OQTG QP RCIG

FOR THE FRIENDLY

between Brasil and England on 14th November in Doha. Both teams will be looking to strike a psychological blow ahead of next year's World Cup, with Brasil set to feature Liverpool's Fabio Aurelio for the first time. Find out more on UM[URQTVU EQO

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YOUR NOVEMBER at the BBC Radio 3 London Jazz Festival, when both Mayra Andrade (pictured) and Gilberto Gil join other international stars at the Royal Festival Hall. UQWVJDCPMEGPVTG EQ WM

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IN SPITALFIELDS MARKET in aid of the Action for Brazil's Children (ABC) Trust. It's going to be fun, with live music and food, as well as helping a great cause. Check out our site for more info on how to take part. LWPINGFTWOUQPNKPG EQO

h^i je AND PAY ATTENTION to Dancing with the Devil, a new documentary which shows the lives of the men on both sides of Rio's relentless drug war - in a way you'd never imagined. TGCF CNN CDQWV KV QP RCIG

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COVER FEATURE

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It’s the war of the worlds in the Olympic field: London 2012 vs Rio 2016

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INTERVIEW Jon Blair tells Jungle all about his latest film Dancing with the Devil, shot in Rio’s infamous favelas

SPICES

4THINKING MINDS

DESTINATION

A wave of Brasilian musicians, old and young, hits London this month, and we’ve prepared a special guide

Playing for Change: the project bringing the world’s buskers to our attention, and our stages

Rio’s not all about sunburn and hangovers. Check out our guide to a sporty, healthy holiday

AGENDA

JUNGLE GUIDE

INBOX

ARNALDO ANTUNES

The bible to what’s going on in town

For your every eating and drinking need

Your rants and raves

In-house conjectures and speculations

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GFKVQTKCN XQZ g^d/ i]Z i^bZ ]Vh XdbZ "It's time to go back to Brasil!" I joked down the phone to Fernando Duarte, who was celebrating the choice of Rio de Janeiro as the next city to host the Olympic Games, from Copenhagen. As we spoke, Copacabana exploded into a giant party, for all the world to see. Then came the hangover, followed by a flood of international media attention, which was already trained on safety in one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. And Rio gave them all something to talk about. A wave of violence in the favelas left 14 dead. Days later, Evandro Silva, a member of the NGO AfroReggae, was killed in terrible circumstances. This issue of Jungle focuses on two things: the investment needed to improve Rio's infrastructure; and the city's legacy, including the issue of public safety, and the daily war for the favelas, captured by director Jon Blair in his documentary (read the interview on p38). It is a commemorative issue, yes - this is the first time that a South American country will host the games - but a lot still needs to change. Who knows, maybe the time has come?

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Hats off to Adriana for the courage to face a London crowd expecting her successes, but challenging us with new and intricate soundscapes. It was funny, moving and a good walk through Brasilian contemporary music. Bring her again! Dan Shields, by email

I am disappointed regarding Adriana's concert. The venue is very good, however, completely inadequate for a concert of that kind. Miriam Cardoso, by email

Wow! What a show and what a sound! Domenico was a master using his (sampler) MPC. It is a pity the fans were not patient enough to watch in close details what was happening on stage Fabricio D.Vyzor, London

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MAYRA ANDRADE'S NEW ALBUM, STÓRIA STÓRIA Her debut album Navega was a real hit in the JD office, she's due back in town this month for the London Jazz Festival... are you as excited about this new material as we are?

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As all eyes turn to Rio de Janeiro this month, it seemed like a good time to showcase a new, talented musician hailing from the 'Marvellous City'. His name? Márcio Local, and he’ll be playing in London in November to launch the 5th edition of the Jungle Trips magazine. Born in Relango, in the north of Rio, Local has been composing and playing for 16 years, influenced by musicians, such as Jorge Ben Jor and Fela Kuti - both of whom feature in large tattoos on his upper arms. For his new album, Don Day Don Dree Don Don: Adventures in Samba Soul, Local brings together many influences within his own, unique style. “The album is about the essence of being Brasilian,” Local told Jungle. “It’s a tour of the roots of samba, with football as the link. I also sing about my spirituality, of romance, of the beauty of Brasil’s black women... It's basically about my heritage and it’s an homage to Rio”, explains the songwriter. As well as success in Brasil, the new album has taken off internationally. In January, Local was the US, where he recorded a video release in Washington and played shows in New York, where his samba soul sound was embraced. Now, Local brings the samba soul genre, which originated in 1970's Rio, to Europe and the UK for the first time, and expectations are running high. “Outside of Brasil, everything I do is being seen for the first time,” Local says, excitedly, “and the audiences pay close attention, even if they don’t understand what I’m saying, because behind the lyrics there are melodies which touch people – it’s a universal language.” Local’s gig is a great chance to see some new carioca talent, and to pick up a spanking new issue of Jungle Trips, our travel magazine on Brasil! ,&

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Vc VjY^d gdY†o^d We’re on a roll; in September it was Brasilian films, in October it was art, and in November it’s all about the music. This month’s concerts showcase some of the most important traditions in Brasilian music, and bring several generations of the country’s musicians to the London stage. We have the godfather of Brasilian music, Gilberto Gil; as well as the sons of some of Brasil's greatest artists - Jair Oliveira (son of Jair Rodrigues) and Max de Castro and Simoninha (sons of Wilson Simonal). Then there's Forró in the Dark, who take a traditional, Northeastern dance rhythm and infuse it with all kinds of modern styles. So, which ever one you choose to see, each of this month's gigs are like a lesson in Brasilian musical history. ,& D[ #PC 0CQOK

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LJF Ad12_JungleDrums_2.pdf

1

01/10/2009

17:43

FRI 13 – SUN 22 NOV 2009 Sat 14

ROBERTO FONSECA + MAYRA ANDRADE Southbank Centre

Thu 19

GILBERTO GIL Southbank Centre

Booking Southbank Centre

0871 663 2500 southbankcentre.co.uk

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For the full programme visit londonjazzfestival.org.uk Follow us on twitter.com/londonjazzfest

the album

ALBUM OUT NOW

Brazil’s sexy homegrown groove goes global... www.forrointhedark.com | www.natgeomusic.net | www.ada-global.com

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LATIN AMERICA CINEMA MAKES ITS MARK IN LONDON THIS MONTH If you were left wanting more after the recent explosion of Brasilian Cinema in London back in September, we’ve got good news: the month of November brings not one, but two more Latin American Film Festivals to the capital. The London Latin American Film Festival kick-starts the season with ten days of the region's finest cinematic exports, showing five UK premieres of feature films from Mexico, Argentina and Bolivia, as well as an eclectic mix of shorts and documentaries. Particular Brasilian gems include Children of the Amazon, a critically acclaimed documentary from filmmaker Denise Zmekhol, who revisits the indigenous tribes she photographed in the Amazon 15 years ago; and I Am Happy, a refreshingly positive take on Rio’s favela communities. Vibe Bar on Brick Lane is the venue for a Latin American art exhibition and the Closing Night Party, both of which promise to be painfully cool. The festivities continue with the 8th Discovering Latin America Film Festival at the end of the month; a two week extravaganza exploring themes of immigration, national identity and comedy in Latin American Cinema. Brasilian highlights not to be missed include a Q&A session with Brasilian Paula Lavinge, producer of Romance. Panel discussions with leading directors and even a Master-class in Cinema and Ideology guaranteed to satisfy your inner film buff. ,&

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Márcio Local

“Marcio Local, swaggers on stage. Crowds will sway and booties will shake to his soulful croon and samba tempos” NEW YORKER

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11 nov 09

WALL STREET JOURNAL

Album out now on Luaka Bop Recommended

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doors 7pm - show 10pm £7 adv - wegottickets.com jungledrums.pdf

2/11/09

20:38:01

ad_marcio.indd 1

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SEE THE BEST LATIN AMERICAN CINEMA IN LONDON HELP THE MOST DESERVING CAUSES IN LATIN AMERICA

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E6C9D " BDC>JB THE BRASILIAN STAGE DIRECTOR WITH A PENCHANT FOR MUSICALS From glitzy musicals in São Paulo to risqué black comedy in London, via a pasta factory in Leeds: stage director José Pando has certainly had an interesting career. Now his latest theatrical venture brings him to Hoxton’s Courtyard Theatre, where he is co-producing the play Faithless Bitches. “I always loved musicals,” José revealed to Jungle. “I’d seen some in New York when I was young, but there was no tradition of musicals in Brasil. If there was a video of a musical, I owned it – every single one. I might not have seen it on stage, but I knew all of the songs from beginning to end!” In 2003, he got a big break on the Brasilian stage, when he was given an opportunity of a lifetime: to produce the musical Grease. More than 250,000 people would see the show, heralding the arrival of a new genre on the Brasilian cultural scene. But even the success of Grease was not enough to keep José in Brasil, and he headed towards the second home of musical theatre: England. Catch Faithless Bitches at the Courtyard Theatre, this month. ,& D[ (GNKRG 'NKCU #NOGKFC

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BUDDING FILMAKERS AND ACTORS FROM THE FAVELAS MAKE LONDON DÉBUT In the favelas of Rio de Janeiro, where the average salary for a young, black men is R$13 (ÂŁ4.50) a week, more than 10,000 young men are involved in drug trafficking. On average, few will live beyond the age of 25. And yet, all is not lost – far from it, as a new social project from Rio’s shantytowns proves with a special event this month. On the 24th November, the NGO Video Manifesto will hold the I Cine Favela event in London, showing films produced by NGO’s in the favelas of Rio de Janeiro, including “NĂłs do Morroâ€?, the group responsible for bringing us many of the young actors from Fernando Meirelles’ City of God. “We teach young people how to make films as a way of getting qualifications as camera operators, for example, and at the same time as a way of being spokespeople for their communities. We try to prevent young people getting involved in crime, by showing them that they have other options, and that selling drugs isn’t the only way. Self-esteem is a massive factor that we have to work on with them,â€? explains Video Manifesto's media project director, Juliane Bittencourt, who organised the festival. A special treat to close the night will be a showing of the British-Brasilian Only when I dance. ,& D[ (CDKCPC 2KQ

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A MUSICAL JOURNEY THAT BEGUN WITH A THRASH METAL BAND IN MEXICO CITY When their thrash-metal band broke up 10 years ago, Rodrigo Sanchez and Gabriela Quintero turned their backs on playing bossa nova in hotel lobbies and teaching Metallica to teenagers, bid their native Mexico City farewell, and decided to try their luck in Europe. The ended up in Dublin and soon after, when reality kicked in, Rodrigo y Gabriela started busking and playing wherever and whenever they could. Eventually, talent and good fortune collided and slowly but surely, the pair built themselves a reputation and a fan-base, at the same time developing a completely unique sound by combining thrash-metal-style solos with strong, Latin-infused rhythms and the device of drumming out percussion on the guitar body (which has led many to confuse their sound with flamenco). If it was their Latin vibe that got them noticed, Rodrigo y Gabriela have never tried to deny metal as a major part of what they do. In their self-titled breakout album in 2006, the duo covered Led Zeppelin’s Stairway to Heaven and Metallica’s Orion - and went on to conquer huge audiences at festivals all over Europe. And now they're performing at major venues all over the world, as part of their tour to launch their second album, 11:11, the duo's special tribute to eleven of their major inspirations, including Al di Meola, Santana, Jimi Hendrix, Pink Floyd and Alex Skolnick, which is released this month. The reviews have been fantastic, so it might be a good idea to check them out when they play the Hammersmith Apollo. Tickets are almost sold out, but we've if you're not quick enough, we've got a pair for their Birmingham gig. Check out the Competitions page. ,& GD9G><D N <67G>:A6 '(gY Cdk! =VbbZghb^i] 6edaad! '% I>8@:IB6HI:G#8D#J@

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bZaiZY Wn BVngV Mayra Andrade is a superstar. This much is obvious from the first moments of StĂłria StĂłria. With its lilting melody and a shuffling samba-esque rhythm, the opening track makes one thing clear: this is not a Difficult Second Album. Cuban by birth, Cape Verdean by passport and globalista by nature, the combination of African and Latin sounds on Andrade's debut album Navega garnered rave reviews, in 2007. StĂłria StĂłria continues where it left off, drawing her disparate, multi-cultural influences but tying these sounds together into something truly distinctive. Lyrics in Portuguese, French and Creole make her jazzy, soulful songs accessible to a huge audience in a way much ‘World’ music has found impossible. Above all, this is the work of a world-class songwriter, and you don’t have to understand a word to be captivated. ,& D[ 6QO %TQQMUVQP

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So, Rio de Janeiro got the Olympics! After three frustrated campaigns (1936, 2004 and 2012), the city finally won the right to host the 2016 Games, the first ever to be held not only in Brasil, but anywhere in South America. After the much-deserved celebrations, however, it’s time for the city to get down to business. There are big challenges ahead: Rio has a lot to change and develop over the next seven years, with improvements needed in all the major aspects involved in hosting such a grand event. The president of the Engineering Club in Rio de Janeiro, Francis Bogossian, for example, says the biggest challenge is to turn Rio into the ‘Marvelous City’ again. “The people who managed to win over the International Olympic Committee (IOC) will now have to prove that they’re also capable of executing the projects, not only to meet the IOC demands, but also for the sake of the people of Rio”, he says. Can the Rio and Brasilian authorities pull it off? Let’s hope so, as the city would certainly benefit from this extreme make-over. In the meantime, it’s important to look at the project that inspired the Rio 2016 bid a great deal: London 2012. There are lessons to be learned from the British capital’s third shot at hosting the Olympics. London also went through euphoric moments in 2005 after beating Paris, which was still the bookies’ favourite city to host the 2012 Games. But unlike Rio, London had already hosted the Games twice, though not since 1948. The city has a much better transport system, even if it is known to become a bit chaotic at times. The Chair of the London Organising Committee of the Olympic Games (LOCOG), and former Olympic champion, Sebastian Coe talks about the importance of having the Games in London: Creating a lasting legacy for London and the UK has been at the heart of our vision for the Games from day one. We will take our vision and turn it into a sustainable reality, delivering lasting benefits for future generations all around the country, long after the final race has been run”, he says.

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London vs Rio

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investments

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To make it possible for the games to take place in Rio, the three spheres of governmental power federal, state and local - have come together to invest £8.9bn in the city. £47.6m was spent on the bidding campaign alone. Private and public funds considered, London 2012 has received £9.3bn to cover infrastructure development and the regeneration of the East London area, where most of the venues will be concentrated. For elite sport and Paralympic funding, nearly £400m will be invested, against £20.7m from Rio so far. Those numbers are expected to increase, though, especially after a meeting between Rio’s mayor Eduardo Paes and Sebastian Coe in which the latter encouraged Paes to focus on the preparation of athletes and aiming for medals. “He mentioned the importance of Rio having a good performance in 2012 and then thinking about 2016. And focusing on medals [Coe] mentioned that the UK went from 10th to 4th place in the last edition of the Games, and that Brasil should also aim for similar development”, says Paes. Also, as a reference, in preparation for the 2008 Games, Rio spent £419m.

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cover feature

venues In mid-October, Rio mayor Paes and the mayor of London, Boris Johnson, announced a partnership to exchange information and share experiences, making it possible for the people involved in Brasil’s committee to learn from the UK. During his visit to the city, the mayor of Rio also voiced his intentions for Brasil to make use of London’s temporary installations after the 2012 Games. Over 50% of venues in Rio have already been built in preparation for the 2007 Pan and Parapan American Games. While the 2016 Olympics will be centred around Barra da Tijuca, development will continue throughout the city, with several venues in the regions of Maracanã, Copacabana and Deodoro and with the redevelopment of the Port, which has already begun. London also had about half of the venues already built when it won the bid; only 13 out of the 29 sites are being constructed: conferences and exhibition centres such as the ExCel, Earls Court and the O2 Arena; and the Wembley and Wimbledon Stadiums will all be used as Olympic sites. The Olympic Park and most of the venues will be concentrated in the East of the city, in Lower Lea Valley, near Stratford. With now under 1000 days left until the Olympics in London, the athletes’ village and the International Broadcast and Media Centre are on schedule, but the Olympic Delivery Authority (ODA) has already dipped into the Games’ contingency fund.

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London vs Rio

transport Although according to the IOC’s initial evaluation, London needs to improve its transportation system, it’s undeniably better than Rio’s. From now until 2012, London will expand the East London Line and upgrade the Northern Line and the Docklands Light Railway (DLR). It still has to build a highspeed rail service. The plan is to have 80% of the athletes travelling for less than 20 mins to reach the venues. Also, the Olympic Park is to be served by 10 railway lines allowing 240,000 people to travel every hour. In Rio, major investments will go towards renovating and expanding transportation in the city, including upgrades on the railway and underground, as well as three Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) systems which will include connections to Barra, the main Olympic site. During the games, athletes, visitors and workers will be able to enjoy free transport to reach all of the venues.

600 million

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London has planned a budget of £600m for security and policing costs. Naturally, the city’s biggest concern is terrorist attacks. In Rio, residents worry about urban violence on a daily basis: assaults on the population usually translate as robbery, kidnapping and even murder. A major safety programme called Pronasci has begun to take place in several communities and slums in the city to ensure that the problem is contained at a minimal level. According to official plans, at least 46 communities will be “pacified” by 2010. A small step, nonetheless, in a city with over a thousand favelas. However, the state government of Rio has already invested £41.7m in armour and security equipment this year and, along with that, the Federal government has approved an additional £45.5m to be handed over now, hoping to diminish the urgent issue of violence.

Both cities intend to make the games as sustainable as possible. London is focusing on combating climate change, reducing waste, enhancing biodiversity, promoting inclusion and encouraging healthy living. Rio de Janeiro, on the other hand, wants to promote the Games with neutral emission of carbon, renewable energy resources, conservation of water, management of waste and social responsibility.

legacy

After the Games in London, the Olympic Park will be transformed into one of the largest urban parks in Europe. But according to Sebastian Coe, that won’t be the only heritage the Olympics will leave. “The Games are a catalyst for thousands of new homes and jobs. They will transform the East End of London. They will continue to bring huge transport improvements to the whole city. They will deliver massive investment in Stratford and they will create fantastic sports facilities for the whole of the UK”, he says. For Rio, the idea is to transform the city, with longterm strategic planning, including advances not only in sports and recreation, but also infrastructure, accommodation and transport. Francis Bogossian mentions that “Great investments are being made in the favelas of Rio. Other actions relating to sanitation have reduced the pollution levels at Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, yet much still needs to be done to end pollution in other lagoons such as the ones in Barra da Tijuca and Guanabara Bay, not to mention on the beaches”.

the guru

in common

Of all the points in common between the London 2012 and Rio 2016 bids, few could be more important than the presence of Mike Lee, PR Man. The public image expert was hailed a wizard by both teams, thanks to the powerful presentations that significantly helped the British and Brasilian cases. Lee, however, is the first one to demystify his part in the victories. “No video or beautiful speech would be powerful enough without good stories and characters. London and Rio had them, although I had to admit that the Rio victory tasted sweeter for all the challenges involved, including taking the Games to South America for the first time’’, explains Lee. But anyone who witnessed the bid campaigns could see the touch of the former UEFA communications director (the European football governing body), on the charm offensive. Rio, for example, took some remarkable visual aids to the IOC Congress in Copenhagen, starting with a World Map depicting past Olympic Games and showing the empty space in South America – another crucial piece was the film City of God directed by Fernando Meirelles, culminating in a human panel of Olympic Rings on the sands of Copacabana. “A bid involves emotions, but I insist that the most fundamental thing for London and Rio was having a strong project for the Games. Brasil had a good window of opportunity and made good use of it. So did the IOC by expanding the Olympic Movement to South America instead of basically doing what would be just another Olympic Games in Asia, North America or Europe’’.

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London vs Rio

interview

eduardo paes

mayor of rio

Can Rio deliver in 2016? I don’t have any doubts and neither does the International Olympic Committee (IOC), or our bid wouldn’t have triumphed in Copenhagen. Rio obviously has a huge challenge ahead, but the city is already being used to host big events. Besides, a lot of the infrastructure will already be in place in 2016 because of the city’s prominent role in the 2014 World Cup. Above all, we are looking forward not only to the changes the Olympic movement will bring to Rio and Brasil, but also to the contribution we can make by hosting the Olympics for the first time in South America. We will be ready. The recent episodes of urban violence, however, have had bad repercussions abroad… We never hid our problems from anybody, including the IOC. The battle against the violence will be long and hard,

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but we have been making progress with a united approach between all levels of government, and where a police presence in troubled communities has a much more inclusive role. I know a lot of people abroad still relate to the movie City of God when they think of Rio but they would be surprised to see the real City of God these days. We are not worried about delivering safe games, as every year we have Carnival and New Year’s Eve in Copacabana, with millions of people in the streets and we avoid having serious incidents. We want a better Rio on a daily basis for the city’s people and the tourists that frequently visit us. What can Rio learn with London? Our bids have a lot in common, in regards to the commitment towards creating a sustainable legacy. Both cities want the benefits of the game to last longer than the two weeks of competitions. I visited London recently and was really amazed by their

projects which plan to use temporary venues, and by their efforts to capitalise on the games and bring investment to the city. These are things we are willing to use in Rio, too. Look at the London Olympic Stadium, for example: after the 2012 Games its capacity will be reduced from 80,000 seats to 25,000. Rio could use these seats or even some of the facilities that will be dismantled. That would be more financially and environmentally responsible. Are there other agreements in place? I had a very interesting meeting with mayor Boris Johnson and he proposed we bring some of Rio’s most famous samba schools for a special parade in London in 2012. The mayor himself said he wanted it to take place in Piccadilly. We also want Boris to come to Rio as soon as he can to see what our city is about!

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1 | tuesday

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musical revolution

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4 thinking minds

ITINERANT MUSIC PROJECT BRINGS A MESSAGE OF HOPE FROM THE STREET TO THE STAGE Next month the Southbank Centre is hosting an international social project which has inspired creativity, beauty and hope all over the world: Bringing together street musicians from countries as distant as Congo, Israel, the USA, and Spain, Playing for Change preaches peace and unity through music. Far more than just a concept, the project, founded by producer Mark Johnson, is an attitude that can show you a world in which millions of human beings put their art, life, and inner beauty on show for all to enjoy. Ten years ago, Mark started inviting buskers to cover famous songs. Travelling about, he recorded bits of songs in different places, and on this cultural journey, songs by the likes of Bob Marley and Peter Gabriel were given a new lease of life – though perhaps the one that best encapsulates the project is Stand By Me, by Ben. E. King. Playing for Change has enchanted millions on YouTube, and got the world listening, thanks to the daring and interesting way

THE PLAYING FOR CHANGE FOUNDATION

it brings street musicians to the attention of the chaotic world we live: they appear playing together or on their own, on street corners on the pavement. In fact, they’re out there every day - but most of us are too busy with our lives to even notice them, let alone to appreciate their amazing talent. Playing for Change is not just a name, it’s Mark’s philosophy: “Music has the power to break barriers between different cultures and increase understanding,” he says. And that’s the most important objective of the project which has travelled the world for the last four years, recording and filming musicians from street to studio - and now to the stage. With performances in all corners of the globe, Playing for Change has already won support from famous musicians such as Bono and Manu Chao, and touched millions of people. Now, in London, it’s bringing the incredible Grandpa Elliot, a fantastic New Orleans street musician whose distinctive voice and style have won fans the world over.

In addition, the stage will be graced with special guests and three buskers, one of whom is the winner of the annual musical event, Rhythm of London. Made legal back in 2001, busking has become a familiar sight in London’s tube stations, bringing a little bit of joy to the daily grind. A recent survey revealed that 82% of Underground commuters approve of the spaces specially designated for buskers; perhaps now they can gain some space of their own on the world music stage, too. Even if they go days or months without being noticed, through Playing for Change the musicians gain the recognition and attention they deserve. And independently of the native language of each one, they are brought together by music – which is, and always will be, universal, uniting us all on the same wavelength. ,& EA6N>C< ;DG 8=6C<: -i] 9ZX! ,/(%eb! ." ''#*% " GdnVa ;Zhi^kVa =Vaa HDJI=76C@8:CIG:#8D#J@

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Jon Blair

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interview

OSCAR AWARD-WINNING DIRECTOR JON BLAIR TALKS TO JUNGLE ABOUT HIS LATEST PROJECT, DANCING WITH THE DEVIL, AND THE MORAL AMBIGUITIES THAT AFFECT ALL OF HIS WORK You’d be forgiven for thinking the photo of a policeman weeping on the opposite page was from a movie. And you’d not be completely wrong; it was taken during the filming of Dancing with the Devil – but it’s not fiction, and the men in the picture aren’t acting. The policeman is Inspector Jacy, a member of Rio de Janeiro’s infamous drug squad, whose colleague has just been shot in the head; the man comforting him is the British/South-African director Jon Blair, who won a British Academy Award for the 1983 film Schindler, and an Oscar for his 1995 documentary feature, Anne Frank Remembered. In 2008, Blair came across the story of Pastor Jonny, an evangelical preacher on a mission to save not just the victims but also the perpetrators of drug-related violence in Rio’s Coréia favela. Tom Phillips, a British journalist based in Rio, who writes for the Guardian, and American photographer Douglas Engle (whose pictures are featured here), had been frequenting Coréia with Jonny for over a year, and through him they had gained unprecedented access to some of Rio’s most wanted men. Realising that they were onto something big, Blair joined the project, and enlisted the services of Lance Gewer, the director of photography who shot the Oscar-winning South-African film Tsotsi, set in the townships of Johannesburg. Over the following year, they documented

the daily lives of the men involved in the small-scale war between Rio’s police and drug traffickers, and the efforts of an evangelical preacher who is determined to save souls on both sides. The incredible footage includes frank interviews with policemen like Inspector Jacy, who joined the force in his 40’s, hoping to bring democracy and do good; and drug traficantes like Spiderman and his deputy Vascão, who put money into improving their local community, and who even stopped killing (though not torturing) their victims, thanks to Pastor Jonny’s evangelising. Then there is Tola, a terrifying yet pitiful druglord, and the sunglasses-clad, cigar-toting Inspector Torres, who confesses to enjoying the heat of the battle in the favelas so much, that he regrets when it all comes to an end. Through its testimonies, Dancing with the Devil raises serious questions about a situation which is far from a simple case of right and wrong. Perhaps some of the most memorable scenes are those of the quite fearless Pastor Jonny forcing young, traficante ‘soldiers’ to bow their heads and pray with him in the street, their guns slung across their chests. Shown in Brasil last month at the Rio Film Festival, to much acclaim, Dancing with the Devil airs on Channel 4, as part of the True Stories series, on 10th November, and will be available to watch online for a limited period thereafter.

What interested you about the subject? I knew enough to know you don’t get the sort of access that Tom and Douglas had, every day of the week. You certainly don’t pitch up on the doorstep of these guys and say, “hi, we’ve come to film you!” It whet my appetite. Partly, because it’s a hidden world, and partly because I suspected that there was something more to the story– that it could be revealing about other aspects of this world that is the sub-strata of Brasilian society. I was in no sense a Brasilian expert, but there were aspects of this society that I recognised. I’m from South Africa originally, and there was a lot going on that I felt I understood. I thought this story would be a vehicle for looking at some other issues. I was particularly interested in the religious aspect of it, because the evangelicals are clearly a growing force in Brasilian society. I’m not religious – very much not, but I’m intrigued by how everyone in this society, whether regular church-goers or not, whether Catholic or Evangelical or something else, has flowing in their veins a religious sensibility. Why Dancing with the Devil? The title of the film is very deliberate. It comes from something Pastor Jonny says, but it’s more than that. The moral ambiguity that infects every aspect of that world means you are faced with a series of moral dilemmas; the good guys are not always

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Jon Blair good, the bad guys are not always bad. Therefore, how you choose to dance in that world is far from clear-cut. That’s something I really learnt about that world. The film is very impartial. What were trying to show? You need to put information in front of the audience and let them make their own minds up. That’s even more the case when you get something as morally complex as Rio’s drug issues. Nothing is served for an audience by calling drug dealers evil or cops brutal. Showing the world as dispassionately as you can is what my craft is about. Do you think that anyone in particular

should see the film? All Brasilians. Unless you live in that world you don’t know what it’s really like and most Brasilians are very cut off from it. They’ve never been to, or seen it, or had any particular understanding of that world. All you see in the Brasilian media are the corpses or police raids and their stashes of drugs and weapons. It goes without saying that this world is a great deal more complicated than this. Do you agree with the analogy of a war? I’ve covered wars in Africa, the Middle East and the Far East, and I’ve never had to use body armour like I did in Rio. I’ve

never seen so much heavy weaponry being carried openly in the streets by civilians during what is supposed to be peacetime. It is a low-level war in one of the world’s great tourist cities. All the cops will tell you that – and the drug dealers will tell you it, too. Each may lose some lives along the way, as will some favela residents, but actually, nothing really changes. All that the continued raids and all the police expenditure are doing, is perpetuating a low-level civil war, which maintains the status quo. The way the police regularly break down the traffickers’ road blocks in the favelas is

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a very graphic symbol of everything that is wrong with that solution to the problem [the traffickers rebuild them straight afterwards as the film shows]. You don’t solve the drug problems of South America with soldiers and policeman, because the drug problem is a socioeconomic problem. How did the main characters receive the film? Did they all see it? To make the film, we had made a promise to everyone; no money changed hands, but we promised we would try to be true to their lives. We wouldn’t pretend that it was all wonderful, we wouldn’t pretend they were

nice people if they weren’t. And they all liked it; they all felt we had been true to our promise, including the cops. We showed it to everyone. Two days after Vascão saw it, he was killed. And then, in March, about a month later, Spiderman was killed. Tola was arrested in June. I think somewhere around 60-70% of the people we filmed are now dead. Isn’t that shocking? Of course it is. That’s their world. Is there a common thread between this and things you’ve done before? Stylistically, the film is very different from anything I’ve done. I wanted it to feel like a

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movie; I made it with that sensibility, so that it is kind of on a par, cinematically, with some of the fiction films [like City of God]. You don’t plough the same furrow all the time but you’re working in the same territory. I am interested in the human condition and I’m interested in the world we live in. And if I can make it a tiny bit better than it was by the time I leave, I will have made a huge achievement – and that’s what I try and do. By making it either a more entertaining, or a better place. ,& 96C8>C< L>I= I=: 9:K>A &%i] CdkZbWZg! &%eb " 8]VccZa ) 8=6CC:A)#8DB $ 96C8>C<L>I=9:K>AI=:BDK>:#8DB

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ON HOLIDAY IN RIO? CHECK OUT THE BEST SPORTS TO KEEP FIT BETWEEN PARTYING AND CAIPIRINHAS Famous for its beautiful beaches and events such as carnival and the New Year celebrations, Rio de Janeiro is also the perfect city for a healthy holiday. Rio has options for individuals or groups, beginners or know-it-alls, and something to suit all budgets: from free running along the beach front, to bicycle hire, to beach volleyball or surfing lessons. The best of Rio’s sports can be enjoyed outdoors, and by anyone - including those who just want to relieve some of the guilt after one caipirinha too many. So, if your holiday plan includes a stop in Rio, check out this sports guide that Jungle has prepared. In case of a hangover, just don't forget your sunglasses! The sports will help, but the sun is bound to be shining.

Abseiling |

Rio de Janeiro is one of the best places in the world to take a break. There’s no lack of retreats where you can be close to nature or find a view guaranteed to refresh your soul. But adrenaline-junkies also have the possibility of taking in those views over the Marvellous City from some very different angles – whilst abseiling. Abseiling has become more and more

popular in Brasil, attracting not just young people but athletes of all ages. Some of the best spots in Rio are Tijuca Forest, Morro da Urca hill, Pedra da Gávea rock – which has a steep climb – and Pedra da Tartaruga rock, from where you can gaze upon the deserted beaches of the West Zone, such as Praia do Perigoso, Grumari and Prainha. To put your mind at ease whilst you're sailing down rock faces hanging off a piece of rope, it’s a good idea to stick with the radical sports companies that are registered at ABETA, The Brasilian Eco- and Adventuretourism Agency; they'll assist you with everything from transport to the location to supplying equipment and other services like picnics and souvenirs. Generally, agencies offer courses or group outings for up to 10 people at a time, with two or more instructors. Prices vary from between R$ 70 (£25) per trip to R$ 350 (£125) for a course. As well as being pretty good exercise, it’s a great way to get close to nature and appreciate the city from fantastic heights.

Surfing | At five in the morning, the first rays of sun on the sand announce

the beginning of yet another day. Joining them are the surfers who like nothing more than being up first thing, ready for another sea-borne adventure. Shrugging off the morning cold, they grab their boards and head for the water. For some, surfing is a sport; for others, it’s a way of life. São Conrado, in the South Zone, and Prainha are among the most hotlycontested surfing beaches in Rio. Prainha is considered a surfer’s paradise: as well as great wave conditions, the views are spectacular, with 700 metres of hillside covered in Atlantic Forest. Surfing requires serious fitness and balance, but the health benefits are just as great. Because it works all of the muscle groups, the sport is recommended for weight-loss and muscle-toning. Anyone planning to head to Rio to ride the Carioca waves should try the Escola de Surf Rico, a surf school founded by Rico de Souza. Prices vary from between R$ 120 (£40) and R$ 180 (£65) a month, or R$ 60 (£20) per hour for private lessons. There are special classes for foreigners.

Beach Volleyball | As soon as

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Sports in Rio you take a short trip along the beach front in the South Zone of Rio, you'll notice the dozens of volleyball nets set up on the sand. After football, volleyball is the second most popular sport amongst cariocas and Brasilians in general - and the sandy variation has its spiritual home here in Rio. It’s quite common to see people swapping their clothes for swimwear on the beach after work, to have a game and chill out. The Morro Dois Irmãos hill in the background and the samba playing out from the beach kiosks make the moment all the more special.

It doesn't matter if you're not a pro; the most important thing is to have fun. And, because it’s a team sport, the nets are a great place to socialise and make friends, let alone the fact that it’s a great way to keep fit. Volleyball keeps the upper-body muscles toned and works the calf muscles, because moving on sand is harder. It’s also great cardiovascular exercise. The sand serves as a cushion for the impact in the joints (knees an ankles), a known villain in every sport. There are lots of volleyball schools for players of all ages. Betinho, who used to play

on one of the Brasilian national teams, offers lessons on Leblon and Ipanema beaches with bilingual teachers, from R$ 90 (£30) per month. Sandra and Elaine’s lessons, also on Leblon beach, cost the same amount.

Rowing |

Imagine practicing a sport that increased your fitness levels, toned your muscles and improved your posture, all whilst you gazed at the Rodrigo de Freitas lake... Well, this is what you get when you take up rowing, as well as being able to burn loads of calories. And the scenery really

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couldn’t be better, enabling you to take in the rich ecosystem of the lake and the mountains surrounding it. Born in English waters, the first regattas took place on the River Thames in the 19th Century, and rowing became a popular sport soon after. But since those first races between the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge in 1829, a lot has changed. Today, there are lots of different forms of rowing, the boats are more efficient, and can accommodate from between one and eight

rowers, with or without a coxswain (the person in charge of navigating, steering and motivating the boat and athletes). When visiting Rio de Janeiro it’s worth checking out one of the many schools on the Lagoa de Freitas and trying your hand at rowing. The Clube de Regattas do Flamengo rowing club has classes for different levels and at different times, costing from R$ 77,50 (£25) a month for non-members. Also, the Escola de Remo do Vasco offers packages at various prices. ,&

BEEN THERE, DONE THAT

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25 most memorable experiences you can have in Brazil! How to get the best out of the city of Salvador in only 24 hours. Carnival in the Amazon!

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The hidden and most fascinating beaches along the Rio-Santos highway you won’t find in any other guide To order your copy: distribution@jungledrums.org To advertise email: info@jungledrums.org or alternatively call 020 7242 5141

jungle guide bars & restaurants

52

SALVADOR & AMANDA Discover London's culinary offering to those in search of the "Real Spain'

A 10-minute wonder

a little pot of happiness next month we're going portugal-crazy: this is a warm-up! In an ideal world, all you’d need for the perfect dinner would be to throw the contents of your fridge in the oven, and 10 minutes later extract a tasty meal from the same pan. Not, as it happens, as far-fetched as you'd think: the Cataplana is a culinary gem that the Sheraton Hotel’s Chef Jerónimo showed Jungle when we were in Porto, in September. Cataplana is actually the name of the pan: two copper bowls on a hinge , which snap together and go in the oven or on the hob. Brought to Portugal by the Arabs in the 8th century, it’s a regional speciality of the Algarve. If you don’t have a real Cataplana, a saucepan with a snap-down lid will do the same trick. So, here’s how it’s done: 1) Take: olive oil, 400g clams; two fillets of fish; one onion; a bulb of garlic; three peppers; six tomatoes; a cup of white wine, one bunch of parsley; and one of mint. 2) Chop everything up; throw it in together, close the pan and put it in a hot oven. Wait to cook for 10-20 minutes, and then serve with large hunks of bread and Portuguese wine. JD by Ana Naomi KEY:

Brasilian

Latin

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Em um mundo ideal, tudo o que uma pessoa precisaria para fazer o jantar perfeito seria pegar no conteúdo da geladeira e colocá-las no forno; 10 minutos depois, uma deliciosa refeição sairia da mesma panela. Na verdade, a realidade não está tão distante como alguém poderia pensar. A Cataplana é uma preciosidade culinária que o chef Jerónimo do Hotel Sheraton mostrou para a Jungle quando estivemos na cidade do Porto, em setembro. A Cataplana é na verdade o nome da panela: duas tigelas de cobre conectadas mantendo seu interior fechado. Levada a Portugal pelos árabes, é uma especialidade na região do Algarve. Se você não possui a Cataplana original, uma panela com tampa que prenda terá o mesmo efeito. Então, aqui está a receita: 1) Ingredientes: azeite; 400g mariscos; dois filés de peixe; uma cebola; alho; três pimentões; seis tomates; vinho branco; salsinha; e menta. 2) Pique todos os ingredients e jogue-os na panela. Coloque-a fechada em forno pré-aquecido. Espere o cozimento por 10 a 20 minutos e sirva com pão. JD

WHAT's YOUR FAVOuRITE latin joint IN LONDON?

I really like Guanabara, the food is great! The music and the vibes of the place WICKED...

need more practice? See Chef Jerônimo in action on our site: Portugueseconnection.co.uk

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up to £10* £10 - £20* £20+* *Price based on a meal with drink per person

Supla, one 1/2 of Brothers of Brazil who play at Guanabara this month

NOVEMBRO 2009 JungleDrums 49

bars & restaurants GARUFA Premium selection of meat and wines carefully sourced from Argentina. Grilled Rib Eye Steak (300gr) with garnish £16.00 104 Highbury Park, N5 2XE Arsenal 020 7226 0070 • GARUFA.CO.UK

Intertrans Café Brasilian snacks & Money Transfer service.

CENTRAL LONDON

35 Oxford Street W1D 2DT Tottenham Court Rd 020 7437 0400

CAFe RIO

BRAZILIAN GOURMET Cafe/Restaurant serving Brasilian and Portuguese specialities. Rump Steak (Picanha no prato) £6.50

Las Iguanas Fresh, tasty and authentic Latin American cuisine. Pescado con Coco £11.50

Whitfield St 112, W1T 5EE Warren Street

36 -38 Dean Street, W1D 4PS Leicester Square

07983 633 440

0207 494 4716 • IGUANAS.CO.UK

BENITO’S HAT L Mexican Burritos, tacos, salads, beer and cocktails. Main meal and drink £7.00

WAHACA Freshly made, authentic Mexican dishes. Fish a la Veracruzana £9.95

56 Goodge Street, W1T 4NB Goodge Street

66 Chandos Place, WC2N 4HG Covent Garden

0207 637 3722 BENITOS-HAT.COM

0207 240 1883 • WAHACA.CO.UK

SEE p.51

MERCADO BAR & CANTINA

26 - 30 Stoke Newington Church St, N16 0LU Stoke Newington rail

Coffee Café Serves snacks and lunch Feijoada + Guaraná drink £5

020 7923 0555 MERCADO-CANTINA.CO.UK

Rodízio Rico Eat-till-you-drop buffet, grilled meats brought to your table Buffet £22.50, veg £15.50

For five years, a charming establishment close to Warren Street Station, has provided a meeting point for those who appreciate good Brasilian food: The Cafe Rio. With an assorted carte du jour, which features not only Brasilian but also international dishes, its success is also due to the cheerful presence of Ilda, the kind owner. Proud of its popularity, Ilda says the menu was designed keeping the diversity of the customers in mind. “Italian, Japanese, Spanish come here, everyone. That's why we even have Kosher dishes”. But the highlight are the Brasilian treats, including their four speciality dishes, Bife Acebolado (steak and marinated onion), Churrasquinho na Tábua (steak and fried cassava), Feijoada and Rio - a delicious plate with steak or grilled chicken, rice, black beans, farofa and salad. Who would guess that these Brasilian flavors have already attracted attention from one of the British Cookery’s biggest personalities, the celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay. “He works nearby, sometimes he shows up here”, confesses Ilda, with a proud expression. The Cafe Rio also offers a variety of pastas, omelettes and salads. “This is my place. It’s where I feel happy, comfortable. I love my customers and I’m always keen to please them”, says Ilda. How could you not fall in love with a place like this?

55–57 Charing Cross Road Leicester Square

north LONDON

07833229369

Barrio North Latino-style ‘street food’ served, DJs and events. Brasilian Wax Cocktail £6.75

SABOR Latin American Food and cocktails with a fusion touch. Brasilian Moqueca £13.50

45 Essex Road, N1 2SF Angel

108 Essex Rd London, N1 8LX Angel

0207 485 4738 BARRIONORTH.COM

020 7226 5551 • sabor.co.uk

50 JungleDrums NOVEMBER 2009

27 Upper Street, N1 OPN Angel 142 Fleet Street, EC4A 2BP City Thameslink

020 7354 1076 rodiziorico.com

0207 387 2285

Chilango A burst of Mexican flavour. Chicken Burrito £5.40

Exciting cocktails and a great mix of Mexican home cooking and traditional favourites. Fish Taco £6.00

BELLO CAFE B Brasilian and Italian specialties.

CafE Rio 66 Grafton Way, W1T 5DR Warren St

020 7511 2023

020 704 2123

a taste of home

Brasilian meals from £8.80 to £9.80

17 Western Gateway Royal Victoria Dock, E16 1AQ DLR – Royal Victoria

SEE p.53

77-78 Upper Street, N1 0NU Angel

020 7353 6761 Chilango.co.uk

68 Compton Street, EC1V Farringdon 020 7253 1249

El Aguajal Peruvian Amazonian Specialities. Student Discount £6 Menu Mon-Fri till 3pm 578, Kingsland Rd,E8 4AH Hackney 02079234883 • elaguajal.co.uk

Café Rio Feijoada and steaks prepared the Brasilian way. Prato Rio £9.80 6 Grafton Way, W1T 5DS Warren Street

El Paso Cocktail bar and restaurant serving Mexican, Tex-Mex and vegetarian dishes. 350-354 Old St, EC1V 9NQ Old St. SEE 0207 739 4202

p.51

0207 387 2285

Canela Brasilian and Portuguese dishes. Feijoada £9.50

Canecão Pool tables and Brasilian football on TV. Fish Moqueca £7.90

Favela Chic Seductive Latin flavours with French touches. Hand of God £15

33 Earlham Street, WC2H 9LS Convent Garden

17 York Way, N7 9QG Caledonian Road

91-93 Great Eastern St, EC2A Old Street

0207 240 6926 • CANELACAFE.COM

0207 485 4738 canecaolondon.com

Comida South American rodízio with music, dancing and late bar. Lunch £16.90 Dinner £19.90 46 South Molton St, W1K 5RX Bond Street 020 7495 1177 comidabar.co.uk

CASA BRASIL TimeOut - recommended. Authentic home-made food. Fish Moqueca £8.90 289 Regents Park Rd, N3 3JY Finchley Central SEE

020 8371 1999

Tortilla Fresh, affordable CalifornianMexican cuisine. SEE Burritos £4.50 - £5.50 p.53

0207 613 5228 FAVELACHIC.COM

Gaucho Argentinean Beef Bbq £20

13 Islington High St, N1 9LQ Angel

020 7256 6877

020 7833 3103 • tortilla.co.uk

29 Westferry Circus, E14 8RR

5 Finsbury Avenue, EC2M 2PG

020 7987 9494

p.51

1 Bell Inn Yard, EC3V 0BL 020 7626 5180

FREGGO L Argentine ice cream bar offering a mouth watering range of flavours like Banana split and Malbec&Berries. Two-flavour cone £3.95

Cuba Libre & Havana Original restaurant with tapas, meals and cocktails. El Plato Cubano £12.95

27-29 Swallow St., W1B 4QR Piccadilly

0207 354 9998 CUBALIBRELONDON.CO.UK

72 Upper Street, N1 ONY Angel

east LONDON Bankete Brasilian cuisine dishes, picanha and feijoada. Chicken Stroganoff £6.50

125 Chancery Lane, WC2A 1PU Chancery Lane 0207 242 7727 GAUCHORESTAURANTS.CO.UK

Guanabara Food, live music and even dance classes. Fish Moqueca Stew £12.50 Parker Street, WC2B 5PW Holborn SEE 0207 242 8600 GUANABARA.CO.UK

p.04

Green and Red, Bar and Cantina Authentic Jaliscan food and the biggest selection of tequila in the UK. Late-night DJ bar. 51 Bethnal Green Rd, E1 6LA

020 7287 9506 • FREGGO.CO.UK

Gaucho Serves steaks, chicken and fish dishes. Argentinean Beef Bbq £20

gauchorestaurants.co.uk

Desperados Mexican Mexican food, cocktails and a great atmosphere. Beef Chimichangas £10.95 127 Upper Street, N1 1QP Angel • 0207 226 3222 DESPERADOS-ISLINGTON.CO.UK

El-Vaquero Argentinean Meats served off the skewer. Meat or fish with salad buffet £19.95 The London Equestrian, N12 7BP Mill Hill East 0208 343 4161 ELVAQUERO .CO.UK

3 Bell Lane, E1 Liverpool Street/ Aldgate

020 7749 9670 greenred.co.uk

020 7247 5479

Buen Ayre SEE Argentinean steak house p.53 Main meal and a drink £20 50 Broadway Market, E8 4QJ Cambridge Heath

Las Iguanas Fresh, tasty and authentic Latin American cuisine. Old Spitalfields Market - 1 Horner Square, E1 6AA Liverpool Street

0871 4263493 • buenayre.co.uk

IGUANAS.CO.UK

CARIBBEN SCENE Award winning Caribbean restaurant offering an impressive range of traditional dishes and cocktails. Ackee & Saltfish £14.95

Raízes Grilled steaks and torresmo on the menu. Grilled rib £7 460 Hackney Road, E2 9EG Bethnal Green 020 7739 2009

latin bites

B E N I T O S H AT ME X I C A N K I T C H E N

Brazilian Café • Restaurant • Takeaway Genuine Home-made Cooking For Lovers Of Real Food Specialities include:

Moqueca de Peixe (Hake), Bacalhau à Brasileira (Baked Cod), Feijoada, Beef, Lamb, Chicken and Vegetarian Dishes

•••

Owner - chef Edir is from Minas. Her traditional savoury pastries and desserts, not surprisingly, are simply out-of-this-world

The small place with the BIG reputation Tues to Thurs 11 to 6.00 pm *Fri and Sat 11 to 9.30 pm *Sunday 11 to 5.00 pm * Reservation advisable

O P E N E V E R Y D AY 1 1 . 3 0 - 1 0 P M * ( * 1 1 P M O N T H U R , F R I A N D S AT )

5 6 G O O D G E S T, L O N D O N W 1 T 4 N B

020 7637 3732

W W W. B E N I T O S - H AT. C O M T W I T T E R : B E N I T O S C H AT

Enquiries for parties and outside catering welcome London

“Offers some of the tastiest, most authentic Brazilian home cooking in town.”

London

289 Regents Park Road, Finchley, London N3 3JY Tel: 020 8371 1999 Finchley Central (3 mins away)

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bars & restaurants Gaucho Argentinean Beef Bbq £20

129 Queenstown Road, SW8 Battersea

south east LONDON

south west LONDON

Buenos Aires Café Argentinean beef, fresh pasta and Argentinean style pizzas. Grilled Bbq £14.50 – £24

Azteca Latin Lounge

17 Royal Parade, SE3 0TL Blackheath

Mexican cuisine, mouth watering cocktails and beers. Latin bands and top DJs.

Sushinho Brasilian chic with Japanese efficiency. Sushinho roll £9

25 Swallow Street, W1B 4DJ

312-314 King's Rd, SW3 5UH South Kensington

Guanabana Famous Jerk chicken served with mango+papaya chutney. £7.85 - £12.75.

sushinho.com

52 Tanner Street, SE1 3PH Borough SEE p.51

CUBANA – BAR & RESTAURANT Home-cooked Cuban and Latin food prepared from quality ingredients at a reasonable price. Happy Hour Mojitos - 2 for £6.95 48 Lower Marsh SE1 7RG Waterloo 0207 928 8778 CUBANA.CO.UK

El Vergel Uniting aromatic and spicy Latin America with delicate Mediterranean flavours. 8 Lant St. SE1 1QR Borough 020 7357 0057 elvergel.co.uk

La Bodeguita Tapas, fish and home-made Colombian food. £8 - 13 Elephant & Castle Shopping Centre, SE1 6TE Elephant & Castle 0207 701 9166 LABODEGUITA.CO.UK

Las Iguanas Fresh, tasty and authentic Latin American cuisine Royal Festival Hall - SE1 8XX The O2 - SE10 0DS 0207 494 4716 IGUANAS.CO.UK

Rodízio Rico Eat-til-you-drop buffet, grilled meats brought to your table. Buffet £22.50, Veg £15.50 The O2, SE10 0AX North Greenwich 0208 858 6333 rodiziorico.com

Tito's Peruvian Seafood, soups and risottos. Ceviche £7.50 4-6 London Bridge St, SE1 9SG London Bridge

BRAZAS Restaurant and delicatessen serving home-made food with Portuguese, Brasilian and English influences. Sticky date pudding (with caramel sauce & vanilla ice cream) £3.45 45 Tulse Hill - SW2 2TJ 020 8678 0697 BRAZASRESTAURANTE.COM

El Gaucho Grill Steak House £13.90 Chelsea Farmers Market, 125 Sydney St - SW3 6NR South Kensington 0871 3328774 elgaucho.co.uk

Fiesta Havana Cocktail lounge bar with tapas, live music and dance. Chorizio Quesadilla £4.95 490 Fulham Road SW6 5NH Fulham Broadway 020 7381 5891 Havanafulham.co.uk

Gaucho Argentinean Beef Bbq £20 Towpath, Richmond TW10 6UJ 020 7584 9901 gauchorestaurants.co.uk

Margarita Loca Latin Music, Mexican food and Cuban cocktails. Fajita King Prawn £11.95 527 Battersea Park Rd, SW11 Clapham Junction Rail 0207 924 2772 margaritaloca.co.uk

Preto Traditional Brasilian “rodízio” With live music on the weekends. Weekday Lunch Buffet £8.95 72 Wilton Road, SW1V 1DE Victoria 020 7233 8668

Tu Chicas Tasty food and flamboyant cocktails. Mexican dish £20

Santa Maria del Sur Argentinean grill house with live music on Mondays. Argentinean Steak £12, Vegetarian dishes £8 - £12

52 JungleDrums NOVEMBER 2009

0207 4851166 guanabanarestaurant.com

west LONDON

Gostosa Pizzeria Brasilian style pizzas and burgers as well as authentic Brasilian dishes such as feijoada.

Café Estrela do Norte Portuguese cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. Spicy Francesinha £9.50 Salvador & Amanda

spanish amanda Madrid, Bilbao, Lagrona and San Sebastian: these places behind Salvador & Amanda’s culinary inspiration are what the Spanish call the ‘Real Spain’. Andres Masso, the restaurant's mixer and shaker, considered the Ronaldo of the cocktail world, has handpicked the drinks list and the bartenders. There is San Miguel amongst the draft beers as well as Spanish wine from traditional yet lesser-known regions. And you can savour your drinks along delicious tapas. Salvador & Amanda’s favourite could only be Paella, which even gets its own special ‘Paella Night’: every Tuesday, Spain’s most wanted dish costs £8.50. But that’s not all, there are drinks and snacks from all over. If you’re looking to dance the night away, on Wednesdays the ‘Un Poco Loco’ event will liven up your evening with DJs playing salsa, other Latin rhythms as well as Brasilian beats, besides soul, funk, groove and house. Every night of the week except for Sunday there’s a different party; from Monday to Thursday there's free entry all night, and on Friday and Saturday entry is free before 9pm. Located between Leicester Square and Covent Garden,the restaurant also takes bookings for birthdays and parties so you can have a true Spanish fiesta. Whatever the occasion, the rich decor and great location will certainly make it a special one.

12 -14 Leopold Rd, SW19 7BD Wimbledon 0208 946 4300 tuchicas.co.uk

020 7734 4040 gauchorestaurants.co.uk

85 Kentish Town Rd - NW1 Camden Town

0207 352 4087 AZTECALATINLOUNGE.COM

CONSTANCIA – ARGENTINE GRILL Argentine Steak House recently inaugurated. Ojo de Bife Argentino (310gr) - 11oz.Prime Argentine Rib-Eye £17.00

0207 407 7787 TITOSEATERIES.COM

89 Sloane Avenue, SW3 3DX 020 8948 4030

356 Kings Road, SW3 5ES South Kensington

0208 318 5333 BUENOSAIRESLTD.COM

020 7234 0676 CONSTANCIA.CO.UK

0207 622 2088 SANTAMARIADELSUR.CO.UK

Tortilla Española £4.90 Salvador and amanda restaurant 8 Great Newport Street, WC2 Covent Garden 020 7240 1551 salvadorandamando.com

294 Kingshill Av, UB4 8BX

159, High St Harlesden, NW10 Willesden Junction

0208 841 3488 • GO.TO/ESTRELA

020 8963 1400

Ipanema Café Special daily dishes, feijoada, puddings and cakes. Buffet £1.20/100g

Made in Brasil Classic Brasilian fare, from seafood to meat and feijoada. Picanha Na Chapa £13.50

7-9 Queensway, W2 Queensway

12 Inverness Street, NW1 Camden Town

020 7792 9050 ipanemacafe.co.uk

020 7482 0777 made-in-brasil.co.uk

Rodízio Rico Eat-till-you-drop buffet, grilled meats brought to your table Buffet £22.50, veg £15.50

Mango Room Fish, meat and vegetarian food: a taste of the Caribbean. Goat Curry £12

Royal Oak - 111 W2, Queensway

10 - 12 Kentish Town Rd, NW1 Camden Town

020 7792 4035 rodiziorico.com

020 74825065 mangoroom.co.uk

Mestizo Restaurant-bar offering a fine and authentic Mexican cuisine Enchiladas £12

north west LONDON

103 Hampstead Rd, NW1 3EL Warren Street

Amber Grill Rodizio Cuts of meat from skewers. Prime Rodízio £19.50

020 7387 4064 • mestizomx.com

Sabor Brasileiro Brasilian fish and beef, game room, internet, bar/ lounge. Buffet £7.50 10% weekend discount

7, Station Road, NW10 4UP Willesden Junction 020 89631588 ambergrill.co.uk

Barraco The atmosphere of a Brasilian bar with live music Friday to Sunday. Chicken Hearts £6 10 Kingsgate Place, NW6 Kilburn 020 7604 4664 barracocafe.co.uk

SEE p.54

Braseiro Hot “home food” and salad on a self-service buffet. Buffet £7.50 256 High Road, NW10 Willesden Green

639 Harrow Road NW10 5NU Kensal Green 02089691149

Sabor Mineiro Typical dishes from Minas Gerais (but no alcoholic drinks). Buffet £6.50 63 Station Road, NW10 4UX Willesden Junction 020 8965 2050

The Cuban Long bar upstairs or dinner in the fiesta Room. Lamb Cubano £10.95

020 8451 8902

Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd Camden Town

Ferreira Delicatessen Sandwiches, meats, cheeses, wines, frozen + fresh food. Portuguese Nata Tart 70p

0870 850 8975 •thecuban.co.uk

40 Delancey Street, NW1 Camden Town

1024 Harrow Rd, NW10 5NS Kensal Green

020 7485 2351

020 8964 3763

Xodó da Leninha Brasilian family run restaurant.

latin bites

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latin bites

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jungle guide

Who Are We? In 2002 people started talking about the mangosteen fruit. XanGo is the first and only Mangosteen juice with pureed Whole Mangosteen Fruit and has sold over $1Billion of juice in just 5 years. Natural Medicine is Big Business. TM

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www.wonderfulmangosteen.biz (biz info) www.wonderfulmangosteen.com (product info)

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jungle guide

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jungle guide

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jungle guide

Is your English good

but still not fluent and natural? Do you still have problems in understanding everyday English conversation, even though your grammar is good and you’ve been learning English for years? Study twenty minutes a day with the

Practical Everyday English book and audio CD and take your spoken English to a higher level. Popular with intermediate/advanced level Brazilians for over twelve years. Available in the UK at all branches of Waterstones, Foyles and Blackwell, and online at www.amazon.co.uk

www.learnenglishadvanced.com

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jungle guide

Brazil Hair & Beauty Colour, Haircut, Hair Relaxing, Keratin Treatment, Japanese Yuko System, Permanent Straightening, Hair Extension Waxing, Manicure and Pedicure, Eletrolifting, Facial Cleansing, Eyebrow Design, Massage

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Manicure and Pedicure 20 Brazilian + under arm waxing £

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Get a free Hydration Therapy when you go for a Permanent Straightening! 55-57 Charing Cross Road WC2H 0NE

T: 020 7734 9989

Leicester Square Station (Exit 2)

http://www.brazilhairandbeauty.co.uk/ 60

jungle guide

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jungle guide

FANTASTIC RESTAURANT UP FOR SALE this restaurant has got lots of potencials and it is located on the northwest of London NW6 on a High Road. If interested please contact us on

020 7625 4252

nov_restaurant_1_8.indd 1

at us o latinfusion SAMBA DE GAFIEIRA, FORRÓ AND BOLERO BOOK YOUR PRIVATE CLASSES IN THE CONFORT OF YOUR HOME OR AT A VENUE. More info:

DOUGLAS GOMES 0794 7410 853

WWW.LATIN-FUSION.COM

62

DOUGLAS_SONY@YAHOO.CO.UK

2/11/09 17:53:3

jungle guide

VOCÊ ESTA TENDO PROBLEMAS EM CONSEGUIR SEU VISTO OU QUALQUER OUTRO PROBLEMA COM A IMIGRAÇÃO?

EMBASSY OF BRAZIL Sous-Chef for the Ambassador’s residence (£1,700 pcm)

Details & requirements:

Nos somos especializados em direito de imigração há 20 anos e atuamos em todos os países Europeus, EUA e Canadá. Escritório Londres: 43-45 Portman Sq W1H 6HN

http://www.brazil.org.uk Applications must be handed in person only, 9.30AM - 12.30PM or 2.30 - 5.30PM, 5th to 19th Nov (Mon-Fri). 32 Green Street, London W1K 7AT.

info@eumigration.com | www.eumigration.com

Tel: 0207 969 2912 (Inglês) Contact Ronald on 0791 780 2121 (Português)

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mai_ireland_1_32.indd 1 29/4/09 13:28:58 YOUR BRAZILIAN TEXT TRANSLATED

INTO NATIVE BRITISH ENGLISH

LEGAL CONTRACTS, ACADEMIC PAPERS, PRESS RELEASES, OFFICIAL DOCS FOR VISAS AND IMMIGRATION

www.transportuguese.co.uk info@transportuguese.co.uk

Sarah Rebecca Kersley - Member, Chartered Institute of Linguists

63

KPDQZ magazine on the web and I really love what I´m seeing there! Nonetheless I´d would like to get a sample copy before I suscribe your mag. Is there any chance to get one? Best Regards, Oliver, email

Do not hesitate to send us your raves and rants! JungleDrums p.o. box 49713 london wc1x 8ww inbox@jungledrums.org

BRASILUNATIC Hi there! Tudo bem? I´m a brasilunatic from Germany and I just found your

Dear Oliver, Thanks for your support! By now you might have already got a hold of the copy we sent you by post, but we would like to remind our present and future readers that a cool online version of Jungle is available at the website – although subscribers get special treats such as DVDs and CDs… THE KEEN STUDENT I have a keen interest in Brasil as we are moving there in March 2010 and at the

TGCFGTU VQR EQXGTU LAST MONTH WE ASKED YOU TO CHOOSE YOUR FAVOURITE JUNGLE COVERS EVER. HERE'S WHAT YOU SAID...

#1

#12

1ST THINGS 1ST JungleDrums #1, because the first impression is always the one that stays! Lucia Libanio, email HAPPY SPIRITED I like the Jungle cover #12 because of the modern and colourful graphics. I think it reflects the Brasilian happy and artistic spirit (apart from the

#46

rising temperature... ). This is actually the first JungleDrums magazine I picked up and I kept it for a long time because it reminded me of good times discovering London. Ute Villavicencio, email FUTURE OF AMAZON The one with 'AMAZON' on it because it captures the very essence of Brasil. Everything

same time have just set up a company to sell tools that complement the learning process for learning languages, e.g. Flashcards. I love your magazine as it’s one of the few bilingual ones that has real and interesting content! It definitely has been helping me with my Portuguese! Kind Regards, Jaime Chamberlain, email LEVITATING AGENDA I’d like to say your listings (Agenda section) manages to elevate the cultural level of the Brasilian community without discriminating different tastes. Congratulations to JungleDrums for supporting the promotion of Brasilian culture in London! Sueli Oliveira, email

else - music, fashion, food, etc - even, dare I say it, football, can be found elsewhere. The Amazon is integral to Brasil - quintessentially Brasilian. Francis de Lima, email My favourite JungleDrums Cover is number 46, the one about the future of the Amazon. A real Brasilian subject with a great image to illustrate it. Paulo Rossetto, email URBAN JUNGLE My favorite is JD #48, which brought a very interesting article on how mankind for the first time had more people living in urban centres rather than the countryside. It had

#48

#51

JOINT JUNGLE Dear Jungle, You are the best Brasilian magazine in the UK. As well as keeping us informed, you offer us the great opportunity to share the magazine with friends from other nationalities thanks to the availability of articles in Portuguese and English. Andreia Resende, email THE JUNGLE LOVER JungleDrums is a fantastic publication - great for those of us who are in Anglo-Brasilian relationships, and those who want to get involved in the Brasilian culture/ community - or even for those people who want to learn Portuguese. Having a bi-lingual magazine is a great idea. Adam Osborne, email

a very nice picture and just make me think we are really living in a building jungle. Monica Altahyde, email LEGS, LEGS, LEGS! My favourite is #51: the fashion edition with the legs on the cover page! Super cool! Patrícia Norbert, email DADINHO This is a hard one to answer but City of Men (Jungle 59 with actor Douglas Silva) is probably the best one for the quality of imaging and editing. Ricardo de Souza, email SLAVERY ISSUES No-brainer: number 62

#59

Hey Adam, We think so too. And we're always glad to help out and play a role in multicultural relationships. FRIENDLY HUG A friend sent me an electronic copy of your magazine. I'm really enjoying it and all the events it promotes in London. A big hug to all the team. Amelia Bacarat, email Hi Amelia, It's great that you're checking out JungleDrums online. But if you need a hand finding a hard copy check out our website, where you'll find a full list of all the distribution points you can pick your copy up from: jungledrumsonline.com.

#62

#63

(Slavery in the Amazon). I was really impressed with the article on the exploitation of workers. Congratulations! Marcilene Marler, email I WANNA HOLD... I prefer #63! That was the first JungleDrums I ever got hold of, and I fell in love with it! Julio Silva Filho, email JungleDrums 63 was beautiful! That cover where you guys reproduced the Beatle’s iconic Sergeant Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band cover using Brasilian personalities and some of the Jungle people was gorgeous and well-thought. I also loved JD 33 and the article on graffiti. Robson Oliveira, email

JUNGLE INTERACTION I think JD does interact with the reader. That's great. Also, I love to share mostly the Brasilian contemporary Issues’ thought with others mother tongue friends. It has been accepted very well...Thanks so much. Ricardo Santos, email HEAVENLY ISSUE Dear Jungle, Congratulations for the beautifully perfect October issue. I am still your number one fan! Renata Alexandra, email Dear Renata, Thanks for the compliments. The October issue was celebrating our anniversary, so we're especially proud of it.

#66 Hi there. JungleDrums 63 was a great cover. I’m a bit biased because I admire a lot the work of (Brasilian graffiti artists) Os Gêmeos and they were there. It is quite importan to discuss every kind of artisitc work instead of merely thinking of them as visual polution. Heloisa Ortiz, email BACKSTAGE CARNIVAL I really like the cover of issue 66, with the old guy playing cuíca and featuring as one of the unsung heroes of Rio Carnival. It shows someone having fun, playing this fantastic instrument and the joy that music can bring to everyone, young and old. Adam Osborne, email

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AN BRITISH-BORN, HALFBRASILIAN STUDENT WHO LOVES SAMBA AND MISSES HIS FAMILY BACK IN RIO DE JANEIRO What do you do for a living? I’m an economics student. I also play percussion with the Paraiso School of Samba, and in a group that plays MPB and Samba, and I DJ Brasilian music, too. How did you find out about Jungle? My Brasilian auntie brought one of the first ever editions over to my house for my whole family to read. Why do you read Jungle? As a British-Brasilian who grew up in London, its articles offer a perspective on Brasil and Brasilian culture to which I can comfortably relate. It keeps me up-todate with what’s going on in London in terms of Brasilian music and culture. What's your favourite

section in the magazine? Deep in the Jungle. Do you have a favourite article or feature? I really enjoyed the article on the MST. It provided an informative summary of the history of the movement and addressed the injustices that its activitists face. What is your favourite place in Brasil? Anywhere with a view of Rio de Janeiro – from Corovado mountain to a hand-glider. Who is your favourite famous Brasilian? It’s a toss-up between Xuxa and God. When you hear the word 'Brasil', what's the first thing that springs to mind? My beautiful, loving family and how much I miss them! ,&

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photo: João Wainer

… summer sunshine for a winter’s day …

mayra andrade

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