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July 2011

A Goddess’s Guide To Sustainable Style

Issue 1


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When Katy Perry took to the red carpet in her

how I would describe these

vintage high waisted shorts, visions of 1950’s pin-up

cotton blended, darling short

gals certainly came to mind. Since then the creative

concoctions that are offered by

pens have flown into sketches by the hottest

shopbop.com. They have pleats,

designers like Calvin Klein and Yves Saint Laurent.

slanted pockets, cuffed legs and a

The original 1980’s fashion trend is making a

buckled belt.

fresh reappearance. There are numerous styles, Everyone is getting into the summer fashion trend

embellishments, fabrics and

of high waisted shorts as they are the perfect choice

textures to choose from. Lengths

to stay cute and cool during these sweltering days of

are another personal preference.

summer. Top them off with a stylish short sleeved

From the micro-mini to knee

button-down or a sleeveless tank and you are ready

length, the “floor’s the limit”.

for any temperature that Mother Nature

Prices are another major player

throws your way.

when it comes to this updated look. Whether you are into the

These oh-so-cute shorts have been given a new look,

silk vintage mini length or the

with choices in cotton, denim, cutoff, embroidered,

knee length camper style with a

linen and even silk-satin. There are high waisted

tie belt, high waisted shorts never

sailor shorts with buttons on the tummy, leather

looked so good!

with a pleated front, mini length and jersey cotton with tie sides. New spin on an old style is exactly

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It’s been hard, but this is kind of

Gretchen

my life now. It’s only been in the blogosphere that there have been any negative connotations. I don’t read any of them. That’s the first way of ruining your chances as an artist. It’s so easy to have a voice if you can be anonymous. On a day-to-day basis, I have so many people come up to me and tell them they relate to me. In the end, Mondo’s collection was fun and playful and exciting to watch. He’s a master when it comes to textiles. But my goal was not just to put on a great show. It’s to dress women. And my collection spoke to real women. Do you see yourself differently after watching this whole season and especially the reunion, when your fellow designers still seemed angry at you? I do and I don’t. What I’m really grateful for was the way the show was presented, which gave me even more exposure than I was anticipating because of my antagonistic role. was answering questions. There’s a difference between how I feel about

Taking the World of Fashion by Storm as Project Runway’s Nobody was expecting the season-long villain Gretchen Jones to walk away with the coveted first-place spot on Project Runway, but thanks to some heavy duty endorsing by Michael Kors and Nina Garcia, the Oregonian who, er,

FIRST SUSTAINABLE DESIGNER

people on a personal level and how I felt about their work. The reality is my friends and family think I’m great. That’s awesome. I know I’m a better designer for having gone through this show and I know I’m a good person. I know I have good intentions. And I’m walking away with a lot of friends and if I was truly the antagonist they wanted me to be, I wouldn’t have walked away with so many friends. I thought you and Ivy were friends. What

spoke her mind all season long, did just that. After a night of celebrating with friends, she called EW to talk about why she should have won, her next move, and how Tim Gunn’s apology to

her never aired. Entertainment Weekly: You’re in debt. Your possessions are in storage. But you just won this big prize. What do you do now?

was up with her throwing you under the bus? Yeah, that totally shocked me. I feel like I got

By Jessica Shaw

attacked in a way that was not really about me. It was just ridiculous. We all had opinions about each other’s work. Like I said, the all that could have been used in a certain light. With all that airtime, it just made people talk about me more, and it will make people remember me more

Gretchen Jones: I would be silly not to go to New York. My goal is to be there by the beginning of the year. This is my time. It’s the next step for

in a few years.

me as a designer. So were you surprised you won? I wasn’t. I really believed in myself from the moment I started. You have to, not only as a designer but as a competitor. I felt what I represented was very new for Project Runway, very functional and feminine and real. It’s important that Project Runway choose somebody who could represent how modern fashion is moving – not just someone who puts on a good show. Was last night the first time you heard the judges’ critiques of your runway show? To tell you the truth, my group of friends were so loud I didn’t get to hear it. But from what I understand, Michael and Nina fought for me and those were the people I was really trying to reach. I think Michael really understood me and understood my potential as a designer. Nina has always been my favorite judge. I think all designers have to reach an editorial person. If you don’t speak to them, you’re dead in the water.

I was answering questions. There’s a difference between how I feel about people on a personal level and how I felt about their work. The reality is my friends and family think I’m great. That’s awesome. I know I’m a better designer for having gone through this show and I know I’m a good person. I know I have good intentions. And I’m walking away with a lot of friends and if I was truly the antagonist they wanted me to be, I wouldn’t have walked away with so many friends. I thought you and Ivy were friends. What was up with her throwing you under the bus? Yeah, that totally shocked me. I feel like I got attacked in a way that was not really about me. It was just ridiculous. We all had opinions about each other’s work. Like I said, the crazy thing is how much airtime I got. We all said things that could have been used in a certain light. With all that airtime, it just made people talk about me more, and it will make people remember me more in a few years. Perhaps the most uncomfortable moment of the season was when Tim Gunn yelled at all the designers for letting you manipulate them during the group challenge. Did you make peace with him afterwards? I felt like his comments were really out of context. Tim isn’t there throughout the entirety of each challenge.

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All he gets to experience is the runway. And who wouldn’t fight for their life on the runway?


I thought you and Ivy were

I’d love to work for Phoebe

friends. What was up with her

Philo, but who wouldn’t? I’ve had

throwing you under the bus?

a few people tell me that when they

Yeah, that totally shocked me. I feel

think of me they think of Diane von

like I got attacked in a way that was

Furstenberg. I’d be super open to her.

not really about me. It was just

A lot of the up-and-coming fashion

ridiculous. We all had opinions about

designers – the Vena Cava girls, Vanessa

each other’s work. Like I said, the crazy

Bruno, Isabel Marant. They’re all female

thing is how much airtime I got. We all said

designers who are speaking to the same

things that could have been used in a certain

client base as I am. I hope to someday just

light. With all that airtime, it just made people

talk to them. My goal is to create a design

talk about me more, and it will make people

house in the same vein as Michael or Stella

remember me more in a few years.

McCartney, and I know the only way to do that is if I’m focused and diligent. Has Ashlee

Perhaps the most uncomfortable moment of the

Simpson-Wentz called you after Jessica said her little

season was when Tim Gunn yelled at all the designers

sister would rock your designs?

for letting you manipulate them during the group challenge. Did you make peace with him afterwards?

Well, I really feel like her sister is more my client than

I felt like his comments were really out of context. Tim isn’t

Jessica. I haven’t heard from her or from very many

there throughout the entirety of each challenge. All he gets to

people. It’s been a little bit quiet. But people want to see how

experience is the runway. And who wouldn’t fight for their life

the finalists end up. I’m hoping to get a good publicist and

on the runway? We weren’t up there for five minutes; it was five

good representation to my brand. I know who my customer is.

hours! I wanted the best for my team, but if it was my collection,

I know who those “It girls” are. And I know how much you can

it wouldn’t have looked that way. I don’t think of myself as

get just by asking.

manipulative. I think of myself as a community supporter. I had just come off two wins and coming in second during the third challenge. Someone had to represent our team. I’m upset that Tim felt that way, but I don’t think I did anything wrong. He didn’t apologize to me for that but I really didn’t pay much attention to it. I don’t think it aired last night, but he did apologize to me and my team during the reunion. And he and I are on good terms now.

Designer Gretchen Jones' rural, western roots bring inspiration from the organic and natural, while her musings linger from the romantic 1970s aesthetic. Based on minimal and conceptual art principles, MothLove is ethereal and sexy in its very simplicity.Bohemian in lifestyle and design, Jones aims to create collections that beg to be worn and fallen in love with...

You did an actual jump for joy when you won $100,000. Have you bought yourself any presents? I’ve done some retail therapy. What girl wouldn’t? But the money doesn’t happen right away. And $100,000 sounds like a lot, especially to the viewers at home, but really it’s not very much money to someone like me who’s gone into debt to pay off my dreams. It’ll be enough to get me out of debt and to move to New York but that’s it. I

While noted for its luxurious but minimalist aesthetics, MothLove consciously creates modern and sustainable designs. In addition, nearly all Jones' fabrics are environmentally conscious. Each collection includes organic cottons, silk, bamboo and soy blends, with low impact & natural dye processes. Effortlessness is the trademark, purity is the design and conscious is the production- MothLove re-defines.

need financial support now so I can keep chasing my dreams. You can find Gretchen working on a her record collection, Have you thought about hitting up Michael Kors up for a job? He’s clearly a fan. I asked to get a meeting with him on a personal

daydreaming about rides on a 67' BMW R60/2 600, contemplating the metaphysical, playing with her long hair,

level and he was open to the idea. I would love to work under

wearing pretty lingerie, working too late, trying to eat

him because I think it’s important to work under someone

healthy and somehow, always wishing she was sun

who’s not exactly the same as you. He’s a great representation of the classic American designer. I would

bathing by the river...Mostly in her mind, and sometimes outside of her studio.

be extremely flattered if he offered something like that. Even having the opportunity to talk to him personally would change my life more than $100,000 would.

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Anyone else you’d like to work for once you move here? I’d love to work for Phoebe Philo, but

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By: Peter Vern

Our Purpose Drive sustainability in fashion Have You Heard More than 8,000 chemicals are used to make your clothing Almost 70% of clothing workers worldwide are women US consumers spent $500 billion on sustainable products in 2008 25% of the world’s pesticides are used to grow non-organic cotton Today America is the largest exporter of cotton in the world Want To Know More The Sustainable Fashion & Textile workshops are curated, easy to understand and interactive presentations on sustainability. Held nationwide in creative settings such as the Pratt Institute, the workshops engage audiences in the important facts about sustainable fashion and textiles to drive positive change in the industry. Event Feedback “I thought that the event was great, very enlightening.” “The workshop was eye-opening.” “The talk we all had was informative and exciting.”   During The Event Your Recieve An in-depth review of current practices and innovations Clarity around the various sustainability claims being made by companies Understanding of new business opportunities Education for professional and personal development

Zero-waste design isn’t a new technology or material. Instead, it’s a new way of thinking—a philosophy that forces you to challenge existing techniques and become a smarter designer. Technique-wise, it involves fitting all the flat pieces of your clothing pattern like a jigsaw puzzle so no fabric is wasted. Considering that roughly 15 percent of the fabric is discarded when a typical garment is made, the cumulative effect of leaving behind no waste has far-reaching environmental consequences. More than that, however, zero waste about working within those constraints to invent beautiful new forms of fashion. Fashion As Gastronomy It might be easier to understand the significance of zero-waste fashion if we compared it to the revolution in haute cuisine. Just like fashion designers, most chefs don’t invent new techniques. Rather, they modify preexisting recipes by mixing different styles, genres, and trends. Pattern-making has changed very little in the past hundred years. So-called “innovation” is really a fusion of different references. Although there are hypothetically unlimited options for creativity, most people tend to follow predictable routines. Pattern-making, for instance, has changed very little in the past hundred years. But unlike in food, our lack of originality in fashion is actually poisoning the planet, and we urgently need to invent alternatives. Fashion As Science

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Two of the world’s top chefs, Heston Blumenthal and Ferran Adrias, have turned to the science of molecular gastronomy to challenge the fundamentals of cooking. Both have held the title for world’s best restaurant. They’ve also invented impossible new foods, from egg-and-bacon ice cream to foie gras cotton candy. Their food may sound frivolous, but these chefs have learned to use techniques and a level of

knowledge previously reserved for scientists. Adrias has even closed his restaurant until 2014 to pursue his research. Zero waste is avant-garde cuisine’s fashion equivalent because it challenges the basics of making clothes. Zero waste is avant-garde cuisine’s equivalent in fashion because it challenges the fundamentals of making clothing. Behind the seemingly effortless designs is a growing body of research that draws on different branches or science and mathematics. It requires pattern-making know-how, a working understanding of sustainability principles, and an inquisitive mind that is constantly learning. Fashion As Art When it comes down to it, however, zero-waste fashion is still an art form. It’s like writing poetry. At first, it’s difficult to write in rhyme and meter. In a sonnet, you must work with a limit of 14 lines. Only when you devote yourself to this medium can you tell a story and evoke emotion. Anyone can drape a rectangle of fabric, make a kimono, or stick some leftovers on a dress. But to make a zero-waste tailored ensemble for high fashion requires an entirely different level of skill. Zero waste requires smarter, more fearless designers who can see beyond drape and cut. I hope that my zero-waste fashion research becomes an incubator for the fashion techniques of the future. They started out as a “cute” idea, but my designs have become increasingly more complex and sophisticated with each passing season. Zero waste requires deliberate consideration, along with smarter, more fearless designers who can see beyond drape and cut. Zero-waste design is definitely not easy, but it’s one of the more creative tools the fashion industry has to build a brighter future.

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miranda CHANCE

TOP DES IGN ERS ten websites and

to look for this season

Nobody was surprised when Miranda

Made from salvaged denim and

Chance snagged the grand prize in our

leather, Miranda Chance’s bags come

Recycled Denim Challenge for her

in a variety of streamlined silhouettes

deftly woven saddlebag. By

and sizes, ranging from the compact

transmuting castoff jeans and leather

Abbey shoulder bag (with room for

jackets into objects of newfound

your wallet, iPad, and lipstick) to the

desire, the aptly christened Chance

capacious Zeppelin duffle for

gives landfill-bound materials a

weekends and business trips. For

fighting chance on terra firma. Despite

in-between moments, you have the

their Down Under roots, the carryalls

Jefferson cross-body, which took home

are the epitome of all-American

the grand prize in the Ecouterre

utility—rugged yet elegant, classic yet

Recycled Denim Challenge with 899

contemporary, with personality

votes, the striped La Salis messenger,

to spare.

and the boho Jefferson hobo.

sustainable DESIGNERS .com

The purpose of the National Association of Sustainable Fashion

Designers is to assist entrepreneurs with growing fashion related businesses that create social change and respect the environment. The organization provides specialized triple bottom line education, training, and access to tools and industry resources that advance creative, innovative and high impact businesses. Our founding local chapter is in New York – Sustainable Designers of New York (SDNY). The organization was officially chartered in 2008. Our mission is to create social change through design and fashion related businesses by providing education, training and programs that are transformative to entrepreneurs, the industry and the community. Through our work we cultivate collaboration, sustainability and economic growth. Sustainable Designers is a safe

The purpose of the

Through our work we cultivate collaboration, sustainability and

National Association of

economic growth. Sustainable Designers is a safe place to share

Sustainable Fashion

thoughts, ideas and challenges. People grow together and collectively

Designers is to assist

accomplish great things in life, business and the community. We are

entrepreneurs with growing

life-long knowledge seekers that provide leading edge lifestyle,

fashion related businesses

business and industry information to all that aim to learn and grow.

that create social change

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and respect the

We work to develop and train smart entrepreneurial leaders who

environment. The

become financially independent and throughout their journey create

organization provides

social and environmental change that increases opportunities for

specialized triple bottom

those around them. Our work by nature is fun. We incorporate color,

line education, training,

creativity, inspiration and motivation in everything we do. We look

and access to tools and

forward to everyday is evers eparation of happiness between family.

place to share thoughts, ideas and challenges. People grow together and collectively accomplish great things in life, business and the community. We are life-long knowledge seekers that provide leading edge lifestyle, business and industry information to all that aim to learn and grow. We work to develop and train smart entrepreneurial leaders who become financially independent and throughout their journey create social and environmental change that increases opportunities for those around them. Our work by nature is fun. We incorporate color,

ETSY

Our mission is to enable people to make a living making things, and to reconnect makers with buyers. Our vision is to build a new economy and present a better choice: Buy, Sell, and Live Handmade. The Etsy community spans the globe with buyers and sellers coming from more than 150 countries. Etsy sellers number in the hundreds of thousands. If each of these sellers stood outside at night with a really bright flashlight pointed towards the sky, it might look something like the image to the right. Etsy was founded in June, 2005. We are a community and a company. Click the image to the right for a view of the community, and see below for who works at Etsy Inc.

creativity, inspiration and motivation in everything we do. We look forward to everyday. There is no separation of happiness between family, work and well-being.

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label GAZER

There is a little white label on

At uluru, there is great intent in

clothing, usually tucked away

each silhouette, seam, and detail. I

behind the brand tag or sewn

believe that less is more. I believe

into a side seam. Thankfully,

clothing speaks your identity and

that label is becoming

that your identity should be yours;

increasingly more important

fluid not fickle, and definitely not

as many of us want to know

defined by a label. There is space

how, where and from what

in my garments for women to

our clothes are made. Today,

interpret, move, accessorize, layer,

ethical fashion is an option.

and wear.

Sustainable fabrics, fair trade and social enterprises are all

My inspirations come from

on the rise. LabelGazer.com's

history, others and mine. A time

goal is to shine a spotlight on

when fashion (or life for that

the many wonderful

matter) was slower, producer and

designers exploring various

consumer were closer

areas of socially responsible, ethical and eco-friendly fashion.

ULURU

Founded by high school sweethearts, Eric Koger and Susan Gregg Koger, and built on a foundation of love for vintage and retro clothing, ModCloth.com is an online clothing, accessories, and decor retailer that aims to provide a fun and engaging shopping

With a team of writers that spread across

atmosphere for you, our customer. We do this

four continents, EFW (Eco Fashion World)

by interacting with you via social network sites

offers all the latest eco-fashion news and

like Twitter and Facebook, requesting your

reviews, designer Q&A’s, store profiles,

feedback through the ModCloth Blog and

launch updates, and interviews with their

product reviews, and asking you to vote on

“favorite ethical divas.”

potential inventory with the Be the Buyer program, all with the intention of running a

I peruse their “comprehensive eco fashion

fashion business in a democratic style.

finder” for brands or shops and resources

stella MCCARTNEY

ENCOUNTERRE .com In a society obsessed with instant gratification, novelty, and

communities, where poverty

conspicuous consumption, it’s easy to dismiss fashion design as

prevents farm workers from

frivolous. Skirt lengths and platform heights appear

taking the necessary

inconsequential when juxtaposed with real-world concerns like

precautions, miscarriages,

climate change, economic strife, water shortages, and hunger and

premature births, and sickly

malnutrition. But if you consider the fact that clothing is

children are rampant.

something we envelope our bodies in every single day, to ignore the apparel industry’s environmental and social impact would be

Like any good product design,

negligent, not to mention foolhardy. $2 billion of hazardous

clothing production can be

pesticides are used every year to grow cotton—more than any

accomplished in a better,

other agricultural crop.

smarter, and more socially and environmentally sustainable

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mod CLOTH .com

Clothing uses more water than any other industry besides

way. Ecouterre is about

agriculture. Conventional cotton, which is grown in more than 70

changing people’s minds about

countries and comprises almost 50 percent of textiles worldwide,

what “fashion” design entails,

also happens to be the most toxic crop in the world. Roughly $2

beyond fleeting fads and

billion of hazardous chemical pesticides are released into the air

mindless consumerism. Like

every year, accounting for 16 percent of global insecticides—more

any good product design,

than any other agricultural crop. (To put this in context, it takes

clothing production can be

about a third of a pound of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides to

accomplished in a better,

grow enough cotton for a T-shirt.) The World Health Organization

smarter, and more socially and

estimates that at least 3 million people are poisoned by pesticides

environmentally sustainable

every year, resulting in 220,000 deaths worldwide annually. In rural

way.

eco FASHION

around the globe to save myself time sometimes.

world

Born and raised in London and the English

Manhattan’s Soho, London’s Mayfair, LA’s

countryside, Stella McCartney graduated

West Hollywood, Paris’ Palais Royal and

from Central St Martins in 1995. A signature

Milan, and recently opened doors in Rome

style of sharp tailoring, natural confidence

and Miami. Her collections are now

and sexy femininity was immediately

distributed in over 50 countries through 600

apparent in her first collection and after only

wholesale accounts including specialty shops

two collections, in 1997, she was appointed

and department stores.

the Creative Director of Chloe in Paris and enjoyed great success during her tenure.

In addition to the main line collection, a long-term partnership with adidas was

In 2001, Stella McCartney launched her own

introduced in September 2004. The critically

fashion house under her name in a joint

acclaimed sports performance collection

venture with Gucci Group (now the PPR

“adidas by Stella McCartney,” has since

Luxury Group) and showed her first

successfully grown to include several athletic

collection in Paris in October 2001. A lifelong

disciplines including running, gym, yoga,

vegetarian, Stella McCartney does not use any

tennis, swimming, golf, winter sports and

leather or fur in her designs. Her collections

triathlon. In September 2010, Stella

include women’s ready-to-wear, accessories,

McCartney was appointed Team GB’s

lingerie, eyewear, fragrance and organic

Creative Director for the 2012 Olympics by

skincare. Her first perfume, “Stella”, launched

adidas – the first time in the history of the

successfully in September 2003.

games that a leading fashion designer has designed the apparel for a country’s team

Stella McCartney now operates 17

across all competitions for both the Olympic

freestanding stores in locations including

and the Paralympic Games.

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“Well behaved women rarely MAKE HISTORY”

FUELING YOUR INNER REBEL SINCE 1881. FUELING YOUR INNER REBEL SINCE 1881.

Gaia 2  

Sustainable Fashion, Flagler College, Jill St.Clair