EDITORIAL
01. WEDNESDAY, MAY
HIGHLIGHTS
02 A VERY GOOD YEAR The new era of BASELWORLD has brought so many changes. I hope that you, as a visitor or exhibitor, were able to draw maximum profit from this exceptional new ambiance and have had a successful time to date. I trust that you had the chance to engage in a number of interesting discussions, concluded good business deals and were inspired by the exceptional design of the new hall and stands. The new hall complex gave us the chance to reinvent BASELWORLD. Thanks to the new exhibition site, the special features, for which the show is well known and appreciated, such as the direct contact, the direct dialogue and the experience inside the halls, took place in the most best surroundings, meeting the wishes of exhibitors and visitors alike. I would like to wish you every success and satisfaction for the concluding phase of BASELWORLD 2013. And I am already looking forward to being able to welcome you to Basel again next spring. Sylvie Ritter Managing Director
Hublot’s CEO Ricardo Guadalupe tells of another great year for the brand.
04 TANTALISED BY TIME The stunning new stand architecture in Hall 1 astonishes the visitors.
A SHOW WITH CHARISMA BASELWORLD 2013 HAS MOVED SUCCESSFULLY IN A NEW DIMENSION by Axel Henselder
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ASELWORLD 2013 has set new standards for trade shows, as was the aim of René Kamm, CEO of the MCH Group. The architectural masterpiece by Herzog & de Meuron impressed exhibitors and visitors alike. The spectacular stand structures and great atmosphere among participants helped create the show’s unique feel. “Our expectations have been more than exceeded,” says Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of BASELWORLD. She continues: “We
have set yet another milestone in the history of BASELWORLD”. “Visitor figures are higher than last year,” Thierry Stern, President of Patek Philippe, confirms. “A lot of people appreciated the new layout. We had a great success.” “I am delighted by this 2013 show”, Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Breguet, Blancpain and Jaquet Droz, shares. “BASELWORLD 2013 was a great success for Rolex. The new stand evidently made a strong impression”, according to Rolex’s CEO Gian Riccardo Marini. Jean-
Frédéric Dufour, CEO of Zenith, approves: “It was a great chance for us to show the new face of the brand within a new stand. It was good start.” Michele Sofisti, CEO of Sowind Group, emphasizes: “BASELWORLD is the most important watch show in the world.” KarlFriedrich Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, adds: “In 2013, the show turned out to be a very good edition. For the industry, BASELWORLD is the rendezvous of the year, even more so after the extensive renovations.” Luc Perramond, CEO of Montres Hermès also thinks: “I am very happy with the results.” The same goes for Rado, whose CEO Matthias Breschan says: “It has been a very positive show for Rado!” The jewellery icon Stephen Webster is likewise impressed with the new BASELWORLD: “The show so far has been full on and very hectic, just what we hoped for.”
Boucheron, Chopard, Blancpain and the like present a dazzling array of majestic jewellery watches.
10 TECHNOLOGY OF TIME
Pierre Gygax, Executive Vice President of Ulysse Nardin, talks about grand complication timepieces.
50 BEAUTY MEETS FUNCTIONALITY
The Gavello collections combine universally recognised symbols with ergonomic forms.
72 HOME SWEET HOME
Expensive watches and jewellery deserve to be suitably housed: an insight into high-end cases and packaging.
76 GEMALICIOUS
A cornucopia of the most stunning pieces is offered here at BASELWORLD.
“AN UNFORGETTABLE BASELWORLD!” 2013 IS A YEAR OF INNOVATIONS FOR TISSOT Interview by William George Shuster
rançois Thiébaud, President of Tissot, talks about the brand’s innovations and why BASELWORLD 2013 has “lots to celebrate.”
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terms of value and number two in volume, with several million pieces sold in 2012. In 2013, we’ll reach for new heights.
BWDN: Mr. Thiébaud, how was 2012; what’s expected in 2013? François Thiébaud: The Swiss watch industry set records in 2012, with exports reaching 21.4 billion Swiss francs. Swatch Group, of which we are a part, strongly contributed to that. For Tissot, 2012 was a great year, with another record increase. It is one of the top five Swiss brands in
Innovation is in Tissot’s DNA. So, what’s new? 2013, our 160th anniversary, is a technically innovative year for Tissot. Our elegant Tissot Luxury watch has the new, revolutionary Powermatic 80 movement, the first equipped with 80 hours of power reserve versus 42 hours for competing movements. It uses less energy, has high-tech synthetic material in
its escapement for less friction, and a new balance, innovatively regulated, for more precision. The new 2825 movement in our Tissot Couturier Small Second watch lets designers create fresh, stylish looks. We embrace tradition in the beautiful Tissot Skeleton movement in the Tissot T-Complication Squelette, with a see-through dial. Furthermore, Tissot advances its tactile technology with the Tissot T-Touch Solar for women and men, the first-ever touch screen solar watch. For our anniversary, we recreated 1953’s Tissot Navigator, which had ground-breaking
time-zone technology, in our new Tissot Heritage Navigator. It represents the new horizons Tissot has always explored. What does BASELWORLD mean to Tissot? It’s very important. We share the ideas and work for our products with people as passionate about watches and our brand as we are. Exhibiting with colleagues generates new ideas and creativity, and we convey what Tissot stands for. BASELWORLD 2013 is more important than ever. We celebrate
François Thiébaud, President of Tissot.
our 160th anniversary here, alongside our younger sister brand Swatch, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary, and have a brand new stand in an entirely new setting.
02 WATCHES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
CONTENTS 01 WATCHES 02 Hublot / Harry Winston 04 Jewellery Watches / Bulgari 09 Dior / Hamilton 10 Ulysse Nardin / Anniversaries at BASELWORLD 15 Trends for China: Chopard / Bulgari 16 Corum / RJ-Romain Jerome 21 Italian Style / Eberhard & Co / Frédérique Constant 22 Tourbillons / Jacob & Co. 26 Quality Seals / Aviator / Glycine 29 Mother-of-Pearl / Swiss Time 30 Rose Gold / Clerc 32 Vintage / Tendence 34 Craftsmanship / Seiko 37 Sceletonised Watches / Balco 38 Titanium / TF Est. 1968 Meistersinger / 40 Hautlence / Rebellion / Gustafsson & Sjögren
Hublot Antikythera SunMoon.
ture replica of the mechanism, which will be auctioned with money raised for the Archeological Museum of Athens.) In 2012, the value of watch exports rose to 21.4 billion francs. This represents an increase of 2.1 billion francs, or 10.9 percent. What kind of year will 2013 be for Swiss watches? I think 2013 will be the year of consolidation, with growth of roughly 5 percent. The watch industry is facing a challenge now due to the decline in sales in China.
02 MARKETS 42 China 45 Pearl Marketing 46 Shopping behaviour of tourists
03 JEWELLERY 49 Rebecca / Versace 50 Davite & Delucchi / Gavello 52 de Grisogono / Pippo Perez 55 Zancan / Blue White Group 56 K di Kuore / News 58 Nomades / Zydo 62 Barakà / Yoko by Euro Pearls 64 Bruno Mayer / Schreiner 67 Trend Jewellery for Men
04 INNOVATIONS 71 Review / Greiner / Castaldo 72 Packages / Bullnheimer / Dialumen
05 GEMSTONES 75 Comments / Rosy Blue 76 Potpourri of Gems 81 Carvings
06 WORLD OF BASEL 82 Eleanor Cardozo / BASEL- WORLD Village / Carlos Fuente jun. / DJ Antoine / Luminox 84 Cocktail Alfex / New Books / Carrera y Carrera / Max Chilton
07 SERVICE 86 Floor Plan / General Information / Imprint Download the ePaper version at: www.baselworld.com
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Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot.
MANY IN-HOUSE PROJECTS IN THE WORKS HUBLOT COMBINES EXPERTISE IN HIGH WATCHMAKING AND JEWELLERY
“Our strategy has always been to focus on research and development.”
by Carol Besler
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icardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, tells BWDN the highlights of another great year for the Nyon-based Swiss watch manufacturer. BWDN: What are the highlights of Hublot’s introductions this year at the show? Do we see something equivalent to the 5 million dollar diamond-encrusted Big Bang you debuted last year? Ricardo Guadalupe: This year we will be introducing a new high jew-
ellery timepiece, the 1 million dollar Classic Fusion Skeleton Tourbillon, in which the movement will be set with baguette diamonds. Hublot now produces its own chronograph movement, the Unico, and specialty movements. Will there be any new movements introduced this year? Yes, we will be introducing a unique movement for our Masterpiece collection, created in partnership with Ferrari and entirely developed and produced in-house.
In addition, we will also be coming out soon with a movement linked to the Antikythera project, including a dedicated timepiece that will be available for purchase. (Editor’s note: The Antikythera is a complex gear mechanism recovered in 1901 in the Greek sea from the Antikythera wreck. It is the world’s firstknown gear train, which previously was believed not to have been invented until the 14th century, when mechanical astronomical clocks began to be built in Western Europe. Hublot is creating a minia-
Hublot is making its own cases, inventing special “fusion” metals, such as magnesium and aluminum. Is there a new case material coming out this year? Recently, we have focused on the production of carbon fiber, ceramic, and of course the revolutionary Magic Gold (the very first scratchresistant 18K gold), which is created entirely in-house. Our strategy has always been to focus on research and development. We currently have many projects in the works but nothing that is ready to be unveiled at this year’s BASELWORLD. 1.0, A05
TIME FOR ASTONISHMENT OPUS XIII: HARRY WINSTON AGAIN PRESENTS ASTONISHING NEW TIME DISPLAYS
Harry Winston Opus XIII.
by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
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atch experts eagerly anticipate the annual unveiling of the latest addition to Harry Winston’s Opus series. The brand presents a watch in this line for the 13th consecutive year in 2013. Each debutante is the talk of the town, either because it displays the time in a totally new way or because it encases a movement with an
unprecedented construction. The Opus XIII focuses on the time display, for which the watchmaker Ludovic Ballouard conceived a unique system. Each hour is sequentially shown by a triangle that emerges from beneath a faceted dome. It remains in sight for an hour and then disappears when the next triangle appears. The minutes are indicated along the
dial’s periphery by diagonally oriented hands that gradually rise into a vertical orientation corresponding to the passage of the minutes. They return to their diagonal position after a full hour has passed, when the action resumes from the beginning. It takes a bit of practice to read the time, but the aesthetics and originality are totally convincing. 1.1, D51
TissoT Luxury AuTomATic LAdy diAmonds
chosen by Deepika Padukone – Actress
An exceptional and timeless piece with top Wesselton diamonds, offering 80 hours of power reserve with a revolutionary COSC certified Powermatic 80 movement, in a 316L stainless steel casing with see-through caseback and water resistance up to 5 bar (50 m / 165 ft).
in TOUCH wiTH yOUr Time
Get in touch at www.tissot.ch
04 WATCHES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
JEWELS THAT TELL TIME AMAZING JEWELLERY WATCHES DEBUTING AT BASELWORLD by Nina Hald
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ime is hypnotic, and as such a pretext for the creation of incredible timepieces. Like mysteries and fantasies, time calls to our inclinations and passions for embellishments – and in order to bring those into life, technical skills and mastery of creativity imposes order on an otherwise chaotic world. Jewellery watches are timepieces meant to capture the interest and entrance the desire of collectors; free-styling over a signature style or motif of a company, which allows us to appreciate the time that has gone in to the making of the small mechanical miracles. From the goldsmith to the lapidary, from the watchmaker to the engraver, the chain of craftsmen are linked by excellence – all working together in a joint effort, striving for the best of the business. This year, a common theme appears to be regal empires and majestic animals. Boucheron Ajourée Peacock jewellery composition is all about three-dimensionality, paved with shades of blue sapphires; a most regal animal, that would wander the old patrician gardens of Rome. The feathers are composed by a fan of ocellis paved with diamonds and blue sapphires, embellished by half-moon chalcedonies and pearshaped sapphires. The dial is set with pink mother-of-pearl, and the strap is silver brushed satin with a pin buckle made of 18K white gold. This year’s Imperiale Joaillerie edition from Chopard is a mantle of light for a finely crafted movement, set with amethysts. And thus once again, the company combines haute joaillerie with precision mechanics
Boucheron Ajourée Peacock.
Famous jewellery House Boucheron showcases stunning jewellery watches in Hall 1.1.
to create a precious aesthetic; a watch graced with pure lines bearing elegant testimony to Chopard’s impressive range of in-house capabilities. Graded shades of baguettecut amethysts and diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds illuminates the Imperiale Joaillerie Améthyste’s performance, with a mechanical self-winding movement entirely developed and manufactured inhouse of the Fleurier Ebauches workshops. The mother-of-pearl dial is adorned with amethyst hourmarkers and the classic scrolling pattern form a delicate background. The lugs are inspired by the columns of classical architecture; and
with a the crown shaped like a lotus-flower, the details echoe the heritage of grand historical empires with a dark purple leather-strap with an 18 carat white gold pin buckle set with brilliant-cut diamonds.
WATCHMAKING AND JEWELLERY EXCELLENCE Established in 1735, Blancpain is the oldest watch manufacture in the world, renowned as much for its superlative watches, all created inhouse, as for its calibres – and the new Chronographe Grande Date is no exception to this tradition. The shimmering mother-of-pearl dial
MAGNETIC – THE FUTURE OF WATCHMAKING?
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and its petal-shaped oscillating weight, visible through the sapphire crystal back.
CHAINED – BULGARI KNOWS WHAT WOMEN LOVE
by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
ment for its time display, but uses the Pendulum concept for its chronograph, thus making this the first-ever magnet-driven 100th-of-a-second chronograph. A frequency of 360,000 beats per hour (50 Hz) enables the chronograph to measure elapsed intervals to the nearest 100th of a second. Likewise sensational is the world’s first magnetic double tourbillon. The watch has two magnetic Pendulums to replace the hairsprings: one for telling time and one for timekeeping. The first oscillates at a frequency of 12 Hz, while the Pendulum for the chronograph is paced at 50 Hz. The chronograph tourbillon, the world’s fastest, rotates 12 times per minute. 1.0, D01
Chopard Imperiale.
ITALIAN CHIC IN GOLD
TAG HEUER IS SURPRISING AGAIN WITH EVEN MORE REVOLUTIONARY CONCEPTS
double tourbillon without a conventional balance: TAG Heuer’s haute horlogerie workshop unveils another in its series of spectacular developments. A balance without a hairspring debuted in 2010 in the Pendulum concept watch, which had the world’s first escapement with magnets rather than a traditional hairspring. Now this avant-garde technology, in which the oscillations of the balancewheel are driven by magnetic fields, has been evolved for commercial use and a tourbillon. With the Carrera MikroPendulum 100th-of-a-Second Chronograph TAG Heuer’s collection now includes a watch that relies on a conventional self-winding move-
reveals two waves of 17 variously-sized diamonds (a total of 0.13 carats) rippling out from the centre. At 12 o’clock, the offset hour and minute display with Roman numerals on a mother-of-pearl dial creates a dynamic counterpoint to the Arabic numerals on the chronograph counters. Twin apertures at 6 o’clock frame the double-disc large date display. The red gold case with diamond-set bezel contains the Blancpain 26F8G calibre with 40-hour power reserve
by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
A
TAG Heuer Carrera MikroPendulumS.
nna Magnani was a celebrated film star in Italy – and a style icon. Among her unmistakable looks was her habit of winding massive golden Bulgari necklaces several times around her wrist. Like her colleagues Elizabeth Taylor and Grace Kelly, she was a fan of Bulgari’s Gourmette chains with curved and smooth links. This has inspired Bulgari’s designers to create the Catene, a new wristwatch in pink gold. The golden case of this quartz watch is attached to a massive and heavy chain, beside which a second chain winds around its wearer’s wrist. Both chains end in a convenient folding clasp. The eyecatcher is the feminine dial: it’s made of mother-of-pearl and has 12 brilliant-cut diamonds to mark the
Bulgari Catene.
hours. The pink gold crown, adorned with a pink rubellite, further demonstrates how much love for details went into the styling of this new jewellery watch. 1.0, A01
Photo : Alexandre Issard
WATCHES 09 WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
STRONG DOUBLE-DIGIT GROWTH
Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic Skeleton.
HAMILTON IS ENHANCING ITS POSITION WORLDWIDE Interview by William G. Shuster
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ylvain Dolla, Hamilton International CEO, tells BWDN about two exclusive movements and debuts based on its watchmaking heritage.
BWDN: Mr. Dolla, how was 2012, and what do you see for 2013? Sylvain Dolla: Hamilton enjoyed a very strong double-digit growth in 2012, continuing the success of the last seven years, and we expect that
in 2013, too. Our products and marketing reinforce our position in mature markets like Japan, Italy or the U.S., and in young dynamic ones like China and South Korea. The goal for 2013 is to reinforce our leadership in mechanical watches between 500-2,000 CHF and open new corporate stores in key locations, as we did in 2012 in Interlaken (Switzerland) and Chongqing (China).
top markets for Hamilton. So, our situation is very healthy, because our dynamic growth isn’t based on one region. Hamilton is known for drawing on its watchmaking heritage. What’s new for 2013? The Khaki Navy Sub Auto and Auto Chrono are inspired by Hamilton’s iconic Piping Rock (1928), which embodied its classic American style. Its round dial in a tonneau case, with intriguing open corners, was known as the ‘Yankee watch’. Today’s interpretation modernizes its unique shape, while expressing Hamilton’s ‘American Spirit’. The new Khaki Pilot Pioneer Auto Chrono is based on a chronograph for the British Royal Air Force developed by Hamilton in the 1970s. Its numbers are bold for fast read-
“As the world’s biggest watch show, BASELWORLD is a great opportunity to meet retailers, journalists, even watch lovers.”
Tell us more about your Asian business. Japan, China and South Korea are among our top markets. Thanks to a wide range of products and strong brand identity, Hamilton has managed to create watches for the tastes of Asian consumers. While Asia is a really dynamic market, countries like U.S. and Italy are also
Sylvain Dolla, Hamilton International CEO.
A PRECIOUS DAY WITH DIOR TIMEPIECES FRENCH HAUTE COUTURE BRAND DEMONSTRATES HIGH WATCHMAKING EXPERTISE Interview by Kyra Brenzinger
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ike a young lady preparing for a magnificent ball, Dior presents its new watches to suit special moments of the day – the choice of watch becomes a wardrobe decision. From the Mini D to the incredible D de Dior Précieuse, the fashion house proves that beyond haute couture, it has mastered the craft of watchmaking. For the morning, D de Dior has invigorating summer colours. Inspired by the 1970s, and comfortably feminine, this 19 mm model is enhanced by the fluorescent shades favoured by Victoire de Castellane. Her iconic colours are evident on D de Dior Précieuse Jade.
the patent-leather wristlet: fluorescent yellow, pink or orange. To keep it chic, de Castellane has decorated the bezel in sumptuous diamonds, with the dial in black mother-ofpearl. The creative audacity evident in these materials and colours is matched with Swiss watchmaking skills: some of the watches are fitted with the Elite mechanical movement manufactured by Zenith. For daytime, a new Dior VIII model with a diamond and motherof-pearl bezel furthers, in the case of the white ceramic model, the glossy look of the dial. In the 38 mm version, the dial is set with a circle of pink sapphires or brightly-coloured Paraiba tourmalines. In the 33 mm model, the rose gold bezel contrasts with the very distinguished white or black polished ceramic. Black and white are the two original colours of the tailor Bar, who inspired the Dior VIII watch. The permanence of black echoes Christian Dior’s remarks: “It can be worn for any occasion and at any age” and “white is pure, simple, and goes with everything.”
TIME FOR COCKTAILS For the cocktail hour, Dior offers two wardrobes, or new watch models. The Dior VIII Baguette watch comes in two versions, one with sapphires on white ceramic, the other with rubies and sapphires on black ceramic. Through the delicate graduation of the colour in the stones, the Dior VIII watch also evokes the Dior pleat, and the bezels set with baguette-cut precious stones become a pleated ribbon. On the back of the watch, the oscillating weight in white mother-of-pearl reveals a subtle motif of a pleated sun, handpainted by a miniaturist in the same hues as the bezel stones. For evening wear, there are opulent horological riches, just as extraordinary dresses are brought
out for the occasion. The Dior VIII Grand Bal, lavishly ornate, is decorated with delicate flounces or embroidered-silk evening dresses inlaid with lace, like the dresses created by Dior in the 1950s. The poetical metaphor is even apparent in the exclusive high calibre of Dior Inversé, whose patented oscillating presents itself in all its finery by swinging on top of the dial. Dressed in feathers or openwork gold, the mass twirls like petticoats and conjures up the sumptuous dresses of the studios on Avenue Montaigne. At night, three new models of the D de Dior Précieuse stage a riot of colour with dials in pink opal, green jade and turquoise. The stones harmonise perfectly with the bezels and diamond-studded crowns. 1.1, B39 Dior displays precious watches for every time of the day.
ing of the time, while sandblasted elements on the case – true to pioneering aviation design – prevent distracting reflected sunlight. What are other big debuts for Hamilton? Lead roles in 2013’s innovative lineup go to Hamilton’s new H-20-S Skeleton and H-12 Regulator. Both are exclusive automatic movements, based on ETA, which allow unique design. The skeletonised dial of the Jazzmaster Viewmatic Skeleton shows the H-20-S’s decorative elements as part of the dial design. The Jazzmaster Regulateur’s unique display of hours at ‘10’ and seconds at ‘5’, leaves the centre position for minutes. That was once used in watchmaker ateliers as an easy way to read minutes and set watches they worked on. What does BASELWORLD do for Hamilton? As the world’s biggest watch show, BASELWORLD is a great opportunity to meet retailers, journalists, even watch lovers; show what we have been working on, and get their feedback. It also lets us meet new business partners, develop our network, discover our competitors’ novelties and see how challenging the future will be. And this year, we proudly welcome visitors to a brand new, much-bigger stand! 1.1, A25
WATCH TO WATCH
Raymond Weil Tango Movement
quartz
Functions
hour, minute, second, date Case material
stainless steel/PVD Case dimensions
39 mm
Special features
water resistance 100 metres, dial with star decor, rose gold PVD plated bezel Place to watch: 1.0, C35
10 WATCHES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
Silicon arrived to aid Ludwig Oechslin’s Dual Direct escapement, which we used in the first Freak. Wheels made of conventional metals were too heavy. Rediscovering this technology – which we now apply to micromechanical parts and not electronic circuits as I did in my previous career – I realised that masking and selective photolithography [used in the silicon process] was giving unbelievable freedom of design to our engineers.
Pierre Gygax, Ulysse Nardin Executive Vice President.
Ulysse Nardin Stranger.
vellous blue dial by Donzé Cadrans and the Marine Chronometer also belong to this group of brilliant products that Rolf selected at the idea stage and developed, putting Ulysse Nardin back on track. He was a visionary in this respect.
STRANGER THAN FICTION ULYSSE NARDIN SAILS ALONG PREDETERMINED COURSE Interview by Elizabeth Doerr
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ierre Gygax, Executive Vice President of Ulysse Nardin, talks new technology and music boxes for the wrist.
BWDN: What would you say has been the direction of Ulysse Nar-
WATCH TO WATCH
din since Rolf Schnyder and his friends bought the company back in 1983? Pierre Gygax: Rolf gave Ulysse Nardin its reputation back. He rebuilt the brand image around the world. He put pieces on the market that were not made by any other manu-
facturer and gave the brand its magnificence back, including Ludwig Oechslin’s GMT, the Trilogy of Time (including the Astrolabium, Tellurium and Planetarium), the Perpetual as well as the Hourstriker and San Marco minute repeaters. The San Marco Chronometer with its mar-
The early components were, by necessity, mainly sourced. How did this change after you were hired in 1997 as the company’s “industrial manager”? I had the task to internalise step by step all technologies, skills, production capacities, quality management, and so on needed to ensure the long-term life and development of Ulysse Nardin. This part having been entrusted to me, Rolf was able to work with Patrik [Hoffmann, the current CEO] on the market side, which included distribution, marketing and subsidiaries. How did Ulysse Nardin get so highly involved in the world of new materials?
Here at BASELWORLD you are showing six new in-house movements? The first one is the musical watch called Stranger, a marvellous product with an in-house movement and a complication comprising a specialised music box. It has a very interesting additional element that changes the function between time setting, date setting and winding. You don’t have to pull the crown into three positions, but rather press a button, which is very convenient, particularly for a ladies’ watch. The Stranger is really a music box and a watch: it plays the music at the top of each hour or on demand. What does being at BASELWORLD mean to you? It is a great opportunity to be in contact with customers, subsidiaries, salespeople and to feel the market ambiance and how our products and service are perceived. To me, it is four relaxing days, not necessarily hard work, though the sales people work hard. It makes me feel as if I am in a kind of education seminar that is useful to me for my work the rest of the year. 1.0, A39
TIME TO CELEBRATE THE ANNIVERSARY OF A BRAND’S FOUNDING OR THE BIRTHDAY OF A CLASSIC COLLECTION: JUBILEES AT BASELWORLD by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
L Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Extreme
ooking back with joy and pride, the anniversary of a special event deserves to be celebrated. Anniversaries also inspire many watch brands to create special models. The watchmaker Pierre Jaquet Droz set up his first atelier in La Chaux-de-Fonds 275 years ago and began a grand success story. By the
Movement
modified ETA/Valjoux 7750, automatic Functions
hour, minute, seconds, chronograph, date Case material
Powerlite (an alloy of aluminium, magnesium, titan, zirconium, ceramic) Case dimensions
43 mm
Special features
water-resistant to 200 metres, sun-brushed dial, screwed crown Place to watch: 1.1, E63
Jaquet Droz Grande Heure GMT.
late 18th century, he was renowned throughout Europe and as far away as China for his mechanical automata, music boxes, singing birds and horological complications. This legacy lives on at the Jaquet Droz brand (1.0, C25), which celebrates its 275th anniversary at BASELWORLD with new and impressive aesthetic creations that combined the watchmaker’s competence and skilful craftsmanship. The Grande Heure GMT pays tribute to Pierre Jaquet Droz’s many travels with clean lines, a classic design and precious material. This latest model, featuring perfect legibility for two time zones, flawlessly meets the demands of the modern and stylish globe trotter. It offers a simple, precise way to read the time in two time zones. The 24 indexes in Ara-
bic numerals set around a Grand Feu enamel dial make it easy to see all the hours of the day in two cities. The red hand indicates local time, while the blued hand shows the time at the destination. When the two hands come together in the same time zone they merge into a single, bicoloured indication of the exact time The watchmaking history of Roamer (1.2, C01) of Switzerland began in Solothurn 125 years ago in 1888, when the Swiss industrialist Fritz Meyer founded a workshop to fabricate robust, yet elegant, pocketwatches. The brand name “Roamer” was established in 1908 after Meyer had formed a partnership with the watchmaker Johann Stüdeli. The two partners initially specialised in the manufacture of highly precise mechanical movements and later enjoyed great success with the production of complete watches. This is recalled today in the anniversary collection with a limited new edition of the Stingray Chrono Diver.
Roamer Stingray Chrono Diver.
Chopard (1.0, D15) and TAG Heuer (1.0, D01) are celebrating the birthdays of a legendary watch model. Chopard commemorates the Happy Sport, which debuted 20 years ago, by launching the first mechanical version of this model. TAG Heuer proudly looks back at the genesis of the Carrera, which was created for professional race-car drivers 50 years ago. To recall this event, TAG Heuer now releases the Carrera Calibre 1887 Jack Heuer Edition, with the brand’s own manufacture movement: TAG Heuer Calibre 1887.
Rodania Swiss Chic collection · Model ‘Elios Silk’ · Ref. 25057.22 · Ronda 751 Swiss Quartz movement · Stainless steel case Ø 28 mm · Extra white mother-of-pearl dial · 1 full cut diamond 0,0049 ct · Pink silky leather strap · Sapphire crystal · WR 5 ATM www.rodania.com · info@rodania.com ·
facebook.com/RodaniaWatches
HAll 1.2 STAnd B03
WATCHES 15 WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
高级制表业的独立者 萧邦(CHOPARD)新品介绍 文/常伟 David Chang
L.U.C Engine One H钛金属腕表
萧邦(Chopard)是一个拥有鲜明独 立特质的家族品牌，与制表相关的每 一环节都在位于日内瓦的梅林和Valde-Travers地区的弗勒里耶的工厂内 完成。从机芯研发、产品设计到冶金 以及冲压成型；从机芯零件到表带制 造，以及传统的手工环节，如打磨、 组装、调校以及品质控制等，萧邦力 求每一项元素皆能自主，对自我风格 与独特品味的极致追寻闪耀在每一款 萧邦作品中。就像BASELWORLD之前 发布的L.U.C XP漆艺蛇表，表盘艺术设 计不仅深受好评，而且其装配的L.U.C 高级机芯也彰显了萧邦的制表实力。 1996年，萧邦在弗勒里耶建立了自 己的机芯厂，专精于研发、制造和组 装L.U.C机芯。自此带有微型自动陀的
Superfast Chrono腕表
萧邦自产机芯成为高级钟表领域的一 个代表。2008年7月，萧邦拥有了一家 新的机芯厂——Fleurier Ebauches， 这是一个生产面积达到5,100平方米的 厂房。萧邦对原有的厂房进行了翻修 整理，并配置了全新的机器，最终于 2009年2月投入使用。此机芯厂的成 立，再次体现了萧邦联合总裁卡尔-弗 雷德理克·舍费尔（Karl-Friedrich Scheufele）先生的期望，以独立生产 为长远目标，并能增加产品的产量。 今天，萧邦在弗勒里耶共雇用约160位 员工，负责约15个不同的专业领域。 随着Fleurier Ebauches的成功 运作，本年度推出的Superfast系列 首次装配了自主设计、研发和组装的 机芯，这也象征了品牌全新时代的来
L.U.C XP腕表
临。就像表如其名，腕表造型充满了 运动风格，不仅体现高贵风范，而且 诠释澎湃力量，线条简洁利落、设计 阳刚豪迈。腕表上的许多细节与赛车 运动息息相关：表冠饰有橡胶铸模方 向盘标志；表耳和按钮双侧的凹槽则 令人想起跑车的散热片；表圈螺丝设 计的灵感来自轮圈；天然橡胶表带以 具有高辨识度的光滑轮胎作为样式。 系列表款皆搭载饰有深灰色垂直条纹 的表盘，令人联想到著名的“赛车条 纹”（此条纹通常位于赛车的车顶和 引擎盖上，将赛车和一般车辆区隔开 来）。腕表不但外部设计别出心裁， 机芯亦展现精雕细琢的制表工艺。所 有的夹板皆经镂空雕凿，饰以平行细 直条纹，令人联想起古董跑车的散热 器护栅叶片。透过透视表背，机芯的 质感一览无遗，可尽情欣赏前所未见 的装饰加工模式。机芯具有COSC瑞 士天文台精密认证，以及60小时动力 储存性能，为新一代的萧邦自动机芯 写下了新的注脚。 值得祝贺的不仅有新机芯的研发， 还有Happy Sport系列的20岁生日纪 念。1993年，萧邦联合总裁卡洛琳· 舍费尔（Caroline Scheufele）设计 了这个系列，迅速成为萧邦表中的典 范。多年来该系列从未偏离过欢乐幽 默和优雅感性的路线，而这种鲜明的 识别性也被钟表爱好者所牢记，也要 归功于能够在只有几厘米的精致表盘 上自由滑动的“活动钻石”。现在， 首次装配机械机芯的Happy Sport Medium Automatic腕表已经面世， 直径36毫米的精钢表壳，防水深度达 到30米，衬有黑色的鳄鱼皮表带，以 完美的搭配绽放出夺目光彩。这款表 采用了扭索饰纹的银色表盘，以传统 的经典元素衬托出七颗自由快乐的活
首次装配机械机芯的Happy Sport Medium Automatic腕表
动钻石。透明的蓝宝石水晶底盖能够 清楚看到自动上链机芯的运行，表面 以日內瓦条纹作为装饰。 表壳內置的即使不是一台双涡轮 增压发动机，但陀飞轮机芯却可看作 是类似引擎的驱动装置，虽然两个 物件功能差别很大，但这种机械理念 的跨界却别具匠心，值得藏家反复把 玩。L.U.C Engine One H钛金属腕 表就是这样一款将汽车力学完美融合 到制表技艺中的跨界作品。表盘视觉 设计突出：时针和分针以中央指针的 形式呈现，动力存储指针位于表盘左 侧，看起来类似燃油表，秒针被安装 在位于右侧的陀飞轮上，看起来像一 个车速仪。即使是手工鳄鱼皮表带上 的纹理及包缝，也是在回顾1960到 1970年代赛车座椅的风格。萧邦专利 的陀飞轮机芯，不仅融合了汽车引擎 的多个元素，其布局理念也与赛车驾 驶室如出一辙。通过在美学、功能和 性能上的高度统一，萧邦再次与赛车 行业建立了深远及亲密的默契。
珠宝狂欢 邂逅巴塞尔 唯一介绍珠宝的文章 BAZAAR Jewelry芭莎珠宝珠宝编辑Lilian Liu 刘琴
2013年，拥有近百年历史的瑞士 国际巴塞尔钟表珠宝展如期而至，这 是BAZAAR Jewelry每年与它的约定！ 如果你是位钟表、珠宝的绝对狂热爱 好者，那么来到巴塞尔，则是一份绝 对的荣幸。无论你钟情于收藏级的大 颗宝石，还是镶嵌精美的高级珠宝， 一定有那么几件璀璨耀目的珍宝，用 展柜中熠熠生辉的瞬间令你深深为之 沉醉，无法自已！跟随BAZAAR Jewelry探秘巴塞尔，你再也不会踌躇在琳 琅满目的珠宝前纠结！ 你知道吗？有些钻石会变色！毋庸 置疑，许多年来，变色龙钻石作为最 稀缺的宝石中的翘楚一直令彩钻收藏 家们趋之若骛。所以，当这枚出自瑞 士高级珠宝腕表品牌Chopard萧邦的 变色龙钻戒揭开神秘面纱的那一刻， 无人不啧啧称奇。这枚由盘旋着的黄 金底托紧紧包裹着的卵形绿钻，重达 31.32克拉，是现存记录中尺寸最大的 变色龙钻石。这枚神奇的钻石加热或 长久放置于黑暗中会短暂性改变自身 的颜色，由最初的橄榄绿渐渐变成浓 烈的金黄色或明亮的橙黄色，而当暴 露于光线中或冷却后，又会迅速变成
深绿色。我们不得不赞叹，所有的宝 石都是天斧神功的礼物，大自然赋予 了它如此神奇的美丽，而萧邦用完美 的设计将其极致诠释。 当然，并不是所有的参展珠宝都如 此价值不菲，令人望洋兴叹。来到巴 塞尔，你一定会找到属于自己日常佩 戴最舒适合体的那一件珠宝精品！诞 生于意大利的高级珠宝品牌Damiani 玳美雅一直秉承着意大利优良的传统 金属工艺，并将宝石镶嵌技术融入 其中，令珠宝体现与众不同的精致典 雅。它的设计风格简约利落，精美的 镶嵌金属工艺可谓是意大利珠宝工艺 的典范。2013年，由顶级金属工匠精 心打造的D.Lace系列珠宝，采用品牌 标志性的“D”图案进行重新演绎，造 型简洁却体现着意大利珠宝王国浓郁 的高贵气息。玫瑰金与白色缟玛瑙的 搭配融入强烈的欧洲风情；白色黄金 与黑色缟玛瑙的碰撞则因钻石的点缀 而散发着冷艳的华丽气质。 细细品位巴塞尔，每个品牌、每 个展柜都会给你不同的惊喜。珍珠之
王Mikimoto御木本，恪守高级日本 Akoya珍珠最严格的甄选标准，带来 全世界最精美的珍珠作品。极具意大 利风格的Bulgari宝格丽，再一次将彩 色宝石的巧妙搭配发挥到了极致。精 磨戏刻的Swarovski施华洛世奇，用五 颜六色的斑斓火彩为晶莹剔透的水晶 赋予钻石般的星辰之光。而时尚高贵 Hermès爱马仕则用独具品位的设计打 造着配饰中的珍品。享受这场真正属 于珠宝的盛宴，让它们的艺术之美流 淌在你的心田！
Bulgari宝格丽顶级珠宝 系列白金镶彩宝项链
萧邦钻石戒指白底图 Bulgari宝格丽顶级珠 宝系列白金镶玉髓蓝宝 石耳坠
16 WATCHES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
NEWS
EBEL – Ebel’s new Onde 30 mm combines steel and 18k rose gold for a modern two-tone look, with alternating brushed and polished finishes. The watch is beautifully enhanced with diamonds. The dial is set with diamond hour markers, while the bezel is set with 38 diamonds and the crown with 14 diamonds. The movement is quartz, and functions include hours, minutes and sweep seconds. It is water resistant to 50 metres. (cb) 1.0, D31
In this BWDN interview, Calce talks about Corum’s lines, the global market and BASELWORLD.
Antonio Calce, Corum CEO.
A LEGENDARY ICON IN A NEW LIGHT ANTONIO CALCE ABOUT THE VALUES OF TRUE WATCHMAKING
Interview by Iris Wimmer-Olbort and William George Shuster
C
orum, an iconic Swiss luxury watch, has been bought by the China Haidian Group. Corum will remain Swissmade, says Antonio Calce, who remains CEO. The agreement lets Corum strengthen the brand globally.
Calce said Hon Kwok Lung, China Haidian’s chairman “recognized the potential of a niche brand like Corum [and] is committed to preservation and development of the Swiss watch industry. I’m confident that together we can continue Corum’s success.”
BWDN: You showcase new versions of some existing lines. What is important in the further development of these collections? Antonio Calce: Corum focuses on an in-depth development of its iconic product lines Admiral’s Cup and Corum Bridges. The Admiral’s Cup has been sailing for 50 years, while the Bridges collection has been making its mark on watchmaking history for over 30 years. Every year we add new movement functions. The Bridges Collection introduces a world first with a revolutionary winding system based on two interdependent in-line oscillating weights. This top-flight development patented by Corum enables it to equip the famous Ti-Bridge with its first-ever automatic movement, while fiercely safeguarding the fundamental principle of linearity. The Admiral’s Cup Collection draws inspiration from its nautical origins for a new line firmly anchored in the present: AC-One 45. Buoyed up by an innovative case design developed by Corum, this eminently sporty newcomer sets the scene for complications. Corum demonstrates with these novelties high horological expertise. Do customers expect this? I am convinced that the consumer is well-educated about watchmaking and gained expertise in high horology. He considers the move-
ment, if it is manufactured or not, whether it is exclusive or largely produced. Besides the customer’s expectations, the durability of the watchmaking industry is linked to the quality and standards of the watchmaking know-how. Therefore, it is essential for all brands to offer traditional contents and to communicate about the professions which act for the handcrafting of these in-house movements. BASELWORLD is an international market place with visitors from around the world. Which market is especially important for Corum? It is true that China is an important market with a huge growth potential for the watchmaking industry. Of course Corum pays great attention to this market, while continuing its business on traditional markets. Since 2012, Corum has invested huge means and started concrete partnerships in 12 countries of Latin America to develop its distribution network. We meet here in an unaccustomed place, since Corum has a new position at BASELWORLD. What are your surprises for the visitors? This year, Corum is inaugurating an over 700 square-metre brandnew three-floor stand in Hall 1. It is visually graphic, innovative and technically complex! The structure chosen for the load-bearing elements is inspired by the cross-bars holding the baguette movement of the Ti-Bridge, one of Corum’s most iconic models. 1.0, A49
AN INTERGALACTIC MISSION RJ-ROMAIN JEROME OFFERS A NEW WAY OF READING THE TIME by Sabine Zwettler
R Jeanrichard Aeroscope.
ABOVE THE CLOUDS NEW PILOTS’ WATCHES FROM JEANRICHARD
by Sabine Zwettler
T
he Chronograph Aeroscope is inspired by the technical aesthetic of the instruments in an aircraft’s cockpit. As is de rigueur for wristwatches in this genre, legibility is prioritised via large numerals, noctilucent indexes and glow-in-the-dark hands. The clearly designed dial is installed above self-winding chronograph calibre JR66. This new watch is ready for takeoff in a 46 mm pillowshaped titanium case that is watertight to ten atmospheres. 1.0, D49
J-Romain Jerome unveils its first pilot’s watch at BASELWORLD: the Spacecraft. Stemming from the joint endeavours of Manuel Emch, Eric Giroud and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, this new timepiece features a complication with its own discreet charm, combined with a pure, restrained design. In taking up this challenge, Manuel Emch, CEO of RJ-Romain Jerome, chose to associate with two of the top names in the watch industry: Eric Giroud and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. The three men pooled their ideas and their creativity to give rise to a unique timepiece they named Spacecraft. Right from the first sketches, Manuel Emch and Eric Giroud imagined a very different type of product, combining retro-futuristic aesthetics and horological complexity. “The design evolved in step with our discussions and our numerous exchanges. That is what makes it such a singular object,” explains Eric Giroud. An unusual trapeze-shaped model featuring a black PVD-coated titanium case, the Spacecraft both surprises
Eric Giroud, Manuel Emch and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht.
and intrigues. Its rectilinear profile and its facetted surface echo the design of spacecraft. A black rotating disc with a red indicator transferred on the sapphire crystal indicates the minutes on the top of the case, while the linear hour display is read off laterally, thereby giving time a whole new dimension. The pure lines and the apparent simplicity of the Spacecraft conceal a particularly complex movement. Here the third mastermind behind the project comes into the picture:
RJ-Romain Jerome Spacecraft.
Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. It was in the latter’s Geneva-based manufacturing facility Agenhor that this mechanical self-winding movement was exclusively developed for RJ-Romain Jerome. “The combination of these four functions – lateral, linear, jumping and retrograde hours – is unprecedented,” says Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. The movement features a kind of spring-driven carriage that drives the hour display visible on the side of the watch by means of a red-lacquered cursor moving beneath the
“The design evolved in step with our discussions and our numerous exchanges. That is what makes it such a singular object.” Eric Giroud
metallised sapphire crystal every 60 minutes. The dragging minutes, appearing on a black disc, are read off on the top of the case that also features bead-blasted titanium plates. Time-setting is done via a screw-lock crown at 12 o’clock. The Spacecraft watch is fitted with a black polyamide mesh strap and limited to 99 pieces. 1.1, A55
Celebrate a Milestone in our History. On Your Wrist.
Please visit us at Hall 1.1 · Stand D87 www.tutima.com
TUTIMA UHRENFABRIK GMBH NDL. GLASHÜTTE Altenberger Straße 6 · 01768 Glashütte/Sa. · Germany Tel. +49 35053 320 20 · info@tutima.com
BRAnd FAcT Comprehensive inventory allowing for customer order fulfillment within 24hrs.
The Invicta Reserve Arsenal invictawatch.com
HALL 1.2 . BOOTHS E53 & E60
Creation by Sarcar / Photo Marian Gérard
L A R E G I N A • R e d G o l d 18 c a r a t s w i t h D i a m o n d s a n d a R u b y C a b o c h o n SARCAR TRAMEX SA • Geneva • Switzerland Switzerland • UK • USA • Colombia • Bahrain • Kuwait • Qatar • Saudi Arabia • UAE • Russia • China • Hong Kong • Taiwan • Japan • Singapore • Indonesia • Malaysia • Thailand • Vietnam Visit us at our booth A12 in the Hall of Dreams or www.sarcar.com
FENDI CHAMELEON COLLECTION SERIES 31700 IS A REGISTERED MODEL
FENDI.COM
WATCHES 21 WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
TIME, ITALIAN-STYLE FROM THE MOST EXCLUSIVE PIECES TO FASHION ACCESSORIES, ITALIAN WATCH DESIGN IS WINNING FANS ALL OVER THE WORLD
Meccaniche Veloci Quattro Valvole 44. Chronograph CCM limited edition.
by Roberto Chilleri
F FLOWERS FOR THE LADY EBERHARD & CO. ALSO ENCHANTS THE LADIES by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
A
versatile brand: Eberhard & Co. stands for sporty chronographs, as well as for classical watches with purist aesthetics. This brand’s collection also includes a series of feminine watches for ladies. The newest member of this line debuts at BASELWORLD, where the Gilda arrives like a bride all dressed in white. The oval, slightly domed stainless steel case is a familiar feature that conforms to the curvature of a lady’s wrist. The dial is new: it’s crafted from mother-of-pearl and has slim lines that entwine around individual numerals to produce a stylised floral motif. The same flowery pattern reappears as an engraving on the back of this quartz watch’s case. 1.1, B71
rom Bulgari to Morellato, Gucci and Locman, Italian watch brands have one thing in common: an original and recognisable style. Their range offers something for everyone: fans of unique handcrafted pieces and fashion victims alike. The jeweller Bulgari is an international emblem of Italian design, which has proved itself to have a real vocation for watchmaking, its most important source of income since the 1990s. This is thanks to the fact that the brand has transferred the style of its Roman origins to its watches, which are perfected and manufactured in Switzerland. The top-end of the market also includes other well-known names that owe their success not just to their quality, but also their concept. U-Boat, pocket watch U-65.
3 QUESTIONS, 3 ANSWERS “A truly innovative, independent brand” What new watches does Arnold & Son present at BASELWORLD?
Arnold & Son has three new watches, each with a manufacture movement developed in-house. They include the HM perpetual moon (Royal Collection), which has the largest Perpetual Moon indication on the market and the UTTE (Instrument Collection), the Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement. This is the thinnest tourbillon watch on the Philippe Boven, Executive Vice President Arnold & Son. market with a height of 8.3 mm. The tourbillon mechanism is big and has a stunning 3D effect as it floats above the dial. The third new watch is the Time Pyramid, inspired by the regulators created by John and Roger Arnold over 200 years ago, and by antique British skeleton clocks. What is special about the Arnold & Son stand?
For the first time, Arnold & Son is in the Palace. This fits with our image as one of the truly innovative, independent brands. Arnold & Son displays a British skeleton clock which is almost 200 years old at its stand. This clock was the inspiration for the new Time Pyramid watch. What will you be looking for in Basel?
When talking of ingenious ideas, Meccaniche Veloci immediately springs to mind. This brand has associated its image with the world of motoring. In fact, in its most successful range the case resembles the cross section of a piston and the materials are also inspired by cars: aluminium and CCM (carbon ceramic material used in brakes). U-Boat, the company founded by Italo Fontana, also stands out for its prestigious position and strong concept. Its first watch was inspired by a military underwater watch design developed by Fontana’s grandfather. In the niche market of handcrafted watches too, the design and concept are also key factors when it comes to success. The most unique brand is probably Giuliano
We expect to meet current and potential partners, some watch connoisseurs, and the media.
Mazzuoli, which made a name for itself with its Manometro model followed by its Contagiri. The same goes for Locman: Marco Mantovani has given this brand from the Island of Elba a style that has paved the way in the world of quartz watches thanks to its sensational design. The watches are also available in precious versions. Swiss brands are often given pride of place in Italian shop windows and, indeed, many of these brands have their own branch in Italy. “In the past they were often distributed by Italian wholesalers,” says Mario Peserico, Chairman of Assorologi, the association of Italian watch manufacturers and distributors and Managing Director of Eberhard Italia. In 2012, despite a slight drop in watch sales in Italy, “Imports from Switzerland were up and the top end of the market maintained its moderate growth.” Over recent years, says Peserico, “attractive fashion brands have livened up the market somewhat.” These brands include Just Cavalli, John Galliano and Miss Sixty, manufactured and distributed by the Morellato & Sector group which, after having taken over and relaunched Sector, Philip Watch and Chron-
ostar, became the leading name in easy-to-wear watches. Concerning fashion houses, “as a watch is an accessory, it represents a very natural extension of the range”, explains Peserico. Gucci, which already has a significant history in terms of watchmaking, has dedicated a division to it, based in Switzerland, and Versace has done the same. Others come up with the designs, then pass them on to a licensee, as in the cases of Valentino, Ferragamo, Alviero Martini. However, there are many more Italian brands to discover at BASELWORLD. One thing they share, in every price range, is their sense of style and elegance, which are innate Italian qualities.
A STYLE STATEMENT FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT ADDS TO SLIMLINE by Sabine Zwettler
A
s its name implies, the new Slimline Moonphase Manufacture puts the moon into the limelight. Five new models are being introduced, and all are driven by the genuine FC-705 Manufacture calibre of the Geneva-based independent brand. They are presented in a specially designed wooden gift box. In spite of the many features incorporated into the new Slimline Moonphase Collection, the genius of these watches is that each complication can be accessed through the watch’s single crown. It can be set into three positions. “Position 0” is selected for winding the watch. At “Position 1,” the date can be adjusted by turning the crown clockwise. Turning the crown counter clockwise allows users to adjust the moonphase. Finally, “Position 2” sets the time. Other common features include the elegant slimline design and a case
Frédérique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture.
diameter of 42 millimetres. All models come with a sapphire crystal on the front and see-through case back. A new technology known as “laser ablation” has been used to
create an outstandingly detailed image of the moon. Highly aesthetical also the perlage and circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement. 1.1, B79
22 WATCHES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
TERRIFIC TOURBILLONS THE LOVE OF THIS GRAND COMPLICATION NEVER DIES – NEW PIECES OF TECHNICAL AND AESTHETIC BEAUTY by Roberta Naas
T
he tourbillon – more than 200 years old in its invention – continues to be a complexity that watch connoisseurs love and watch makers enjoy creating. The tourbillon escapement, which compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity when the watch is in different positions on the wrist, is one that brands continue to push to new heights with design elements and with lighter, smaller, bigger and multiple escapements. This year Stefan Kudoke – who has been creating extraordinary hand-crafted timepieces for years – unveils the Kudoke made in partnership with animal loving Habring². The joint birth is the KudOkTourbi. Visible in all its glory between two sapphire glasses, the 42 mm steel watch features the likeness of an Octopus. Using a one-minute flying tourbillon from Habring², the KudOkTourbi wraps its rose gold tentacles around the high-precision escapement. Just as the octopus’ tentacle tips are filled with blue ink, the KudOkTourbi features blue sapphire
set edges. Like the eight tentacles of an octopus, this watch is created in a limited edition of eight pieces. Other new tourbillons stem from brands such as Revelation, which this year unveils the unique, world patented Magical Watch Dial concept. In this concept, the magical dial transforms from black to transparent and mysteriously allows the movement and secondary functions to appear. Developed with CSEM, the watch was five years in the development phases. The first dial is placed in the original R01 Double Complication – which features a tourbillon that appears thanks to the optical mechanism coupled with a double differential. CSEM has developed a nanostructure for the dial that acts as shutters, blocking or allowing the light to pass through depending on whether the bezel is turned or not. The new R04 Tourbillon Magical Watch Dial, which can switch from a skeleton configuration to a traditional one by turning the bezel.
Revelation R04 Tourbillon Magical Watch Dial.
Stefan Kudoke KudOkTourbi.
Also this year, De Bethune unveils its DB16 Regulateur Tourbillon that celebrates fine watchmaking. The timepiece houses the hand-wound mechanical 499-part DB2509 calibre with silicon and
titanium tourbillon beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour – making it ultra light weight and ultra fast. The watch also offers a retrograde display of the age of the moon. On the watch back, readings
of the perpetual calendar and spherical moon phase indications are visible. These few creative unveilings are just a sampling of the tourbillon delights decorating the watch halls.
TIME FOR A SPLIT FLAP
3 QUESTIONS, 3 ANSWERS Dino Modolo, Director of Creations, Bedat & Co.
JACOB & CO. DEBUTS AMAZING GMT by Sabine Zwettler
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“The number of appointments has increased” Bedat & Co. makes exquisite Swiss watches for women. What is it focusing on at BASELWORLD?
Our No. 3 (tonneau) and No. 8 (round opening) collections. We’ve added larger diamonds than previously. We’ve given larger sizes to our revamped models #838 (36.5 mm) and #888 (43 mm), and resized our watches to be more comfortable for the smaller, rounder wrists of ladies in Asia. Does Bedat have many Asian customers?
More and more of our customers are in the Far East. In 2010, our business there was about 5 percent (mainly Hong Kong). Most recently, it was 27 percent. How has BASELWORLD 2013 been for Bedat & Co.?
The frequency of visitors and the number of appointments is certainly increased. And it’s good to be back in Hall 1 again, after being in Hall 3 for a few years.
ne sees them in airports and train stations all over the world – the giant boards in front of which travellers gather to get information on arrivals and departures. The most magical of them are the type known as “split flap” displays, in which letters and numbers are shown on hinged flaps that rotate to change the character displayed. Jacob & Co. has taken the same magic found in split-flap displays – also often called “Solari boards” after the Italian firm, Solari di Udine, which manufactures them – and transported it into a wristwatch. It combines a dial which shows the time in a conventional way with a split flap display in a roller housed at the top of the dial. It also shows the time of a second time zone. On the left, two split flap systems indicate the name of the reference city, and on the right, the hour for the displayed city. The “24” refers to the 24 cities from which one can choose, corresponding to the 24 major time-zones with one hour offsets from Greenwich Mean Time. The entrancing mechanical complexity of the split flap display is a
Jacob & Co. Epic SF 24.
first in the world of watches. Augmenting the dual split-flap display is the rich complexity of the transparent dial, which reveals parts of the movement. The shape of the watch is a sleek and streamlined housing for the complication, both refreshingly different and reassuringly logical in form and execution, with a large and easy-to-operate crown at 4 o’clock. It is balanced by the pusher for adjust-
ing the split time display, which is set into the side of the cylinder that houses it. It’s all shown off by a complex, two-part sapphire crystal that allows each of the two displays to be revealed. Jacob & Co.’s SF 24 is offered in a 45 mm case, which houses the exclusively for Jacob & Co. created self-winding Concepto based Caliber 2220, with an exclusive GMT module. 1.1, B31
Lili part à Deauville
”
ville u a e D “ Watch
PA R T O F T H E H O U S E O F
H A L L O F S E N S AT I O N S - B O O T H 1 . 2 D 0 5 - W W W . TO P B R A N D S g R O u P . c O m
BACK TO THE
FUTURE Nostalgic for the 80s ? With its DeLorean-DNA watch, RJ-Romain Jerome pays tribute to the greatest automobile legend. The DeLorean has fascinated generations of viewers and remains engraved on collective memory due to its visionary concept and avant-garde design. Don’t look back in the mirror, the future is ahead of you ! You just have to reach 88 mph‌
HALL 1.1 / BOOTH A55 www.romainjerome.ch
26 WATCHES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
Epos 3420 Limited Edition COSC.
Chopard is a co-founder of the Qualité Fleurier seal for watches.
GUARANTEED TO BE GOOD QUALITY SEALS ASSURE PRECISION AND EXCLUSIVENESS
by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
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istinctions like the COSC chronometer certificate and the Poinçon de Genève guarantee optimal rate performance and high-quality craftsmanship. The traditional quality seals have also been earned by new watches at BASELWORLD. Precision has always been paramount in the world of clocks and watches, which must keep time with the greatest possible accuracy. Generations of watchmakers have dedicated themselves to this goal.
Their efforts are rewarded by official chronometer certification from the Contrôle officiel suisse des chronomètres (COSC). A watch bearing this Swiss certificate has passed rigorous tests and proven its accuracy. Many models proudly include this fact in their names, e.g. the new 3420 Limited Edition COSC from Epos (1.2, E29). This modern wristwatch with minimalistic styling comes in two stainless steel variants, one of which is coated with black PVD. The latter version makes a very luxurious impression
by combining its black case with gold-coloured indexes and hands. A decorated self-winding movement (ETA 2892) with chronometer certification powers displays for the hour, minute, second and date. These new watches are made in limited editions of 100 units (silvery steel model) and 200 units (black version). Celebrating its 160th anniversary, Tissot (1.0, D25) presents a watch with a chronometer certificate: the self-winding Tissot Heritage Navigator 160th Anniversary.
60 YEARS OF FIFTY FATHOMS
RUSSIAN SPIRIT
FLYING HIGH
AVIATOR INTRODUCES PILOT’S WATCH
GLYCINE HONOURS AIRMAN’S 60TH YEAR
by Sabine Zwettler
O
certified chronometer and one of the debutantes at BASELWORLD. Also new in Chopard’s collection is a limited series of the successful L.U.C XPS model, which bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève. Among other assurances, this quality seal also guarantees that the movement has received particularly high-quality finishing. Even more stringent, however, is the Qualité Fleurier seal, of which Chopard is a co-founder. This quality seal guarantees both a finely crafted movement and chronometer-worthy precision.
by William George Shuster
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n the occasion of the 60th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms, Marc A. Hayek, President and CEO of Blancpain, welcomed emblematic figures from the diving world, like the “father” of the diver’s watch, Jean-Jacques Fiechter, Blancpain President from 1950-1980, at the exhibition especially dedicated to the Fifty Fathoms here in Basel. (sz) 1.0, D19
This newcomer revives a model from 1963, which expresses itself here in a nostalgically elegant dial on which each time zone is indicated by the name of a major city in that zone. When the watch has been set for one of these 24 cities, the time in its zone is shown on the bezel. Chopard (1.0, D15) likewise appreciates the credibility promised by a certificate. For example, the highly complicated L.U.C Engine One H tourbillon watch from the Chopard Manufacture is a COSC-
he MIG-29 Cockpit Chrono originated where it’s most used, at the air base that is home to the “Swifts” Russian aerobatic display team. The team’s pilots took inspiration from their flight instruments to describe the multifunctional timepiece they wanted and needed, beginning with a chronograph whose add and split functions guarantee flawless precision. The alarm function records take-off time and gives advance reminders of key stages in the flight. The MIG-29 Cockpit Chrono is the ideal co-pilot, up in the air and back down on the ground. The MIG-29 Cockpit Chrono takes off in a 45 mm steel or steel/PVD case, which is water-resistant up to 10 atmospheres. It is driven by a Ronda 2.0, B09 quartz movement.
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Aviator MIG-29 Cockpit Chrono.
wiss watchmaker Glycine, known for high-quality pilot’s watches, is celebrating the 60th anniversary of its Airman watch with very special timepieces and a commerative book. One is the popular Airman 17 pilot’s watch, which has had a stylish facelift in a new 46 mm stainless steel model named the Airman Sphair. Lighter and more elegant than its predecessor, it has blue, black and white dials, a black rotating bezel and rotating rubber bezel holder. The automatic watch comes in the two sizes 46 and 39 mm with two 24-hour time zones or one 12-hour time zone with two extra 24-hour displays. 2.0, A31
Airman Sphair.
Hall 1.2 / Booth D13 - E13
WATCHES 29 WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
JEWEL OF THE SEA
The Swarovski stand is one of the most impressive ones at this year´s BASELWORLD.
MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIALS MAKE WATCHES FEMININE AND SEDUCTIVE by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
M
other-of-pearl is one of nature’s most beautiful materials. Dials made from it add gleam and beauty to new watches at BASELWORLD. Mother-of-pearl plays with light, shimmers in slender multicoloured lines, sends reflections dancing across its surfaces and
Emile Chouriet Moonphase.
WATCH TO WATCH Morellato Collezione Firenze Movement
Miyota 2035, quartz Functions
hour, minute, second Case material
stainless steel/yellow gold PVD Case dimensions
30 mm
Special features
diamond-dust dial, ceramic bezel Place to watch: 1.2, D49
wins admirers with its gentle beauty. The diversity of its colour spectrum is fascinating too: mother-of-pearl occurs in pale white, through warm golden hues, to dark green and black. Each c h r o m a t i c nuance can imbue a watch’s dial with a different beautiful aura. Motherof-pearl is most often used on the dials of ladies’ watches, where it epitomises femininity and elegance. Swarovski (1.1, C21) demonstrates this in its new Lovely Crystals collection. A mother-of-pearl dial in the centre is surrounded by 16 colourless zircon elements along the bezel. A stainless steel bracelet with a yellow gold PVD finish accentuates the elegance of this quartz watch. Gucci (1.0, D49) fashionably and glamorously stages mother-ofpearl in a new version of the exclusively feminine Gucci Coupé watch. The rounded rectangular case measures a stately 40 mm across and surrounds a grey mother-of-pearl dial on which 60 diamonds accentuate Gucci’s unmistakable GG logo. Notwithstanding
Swarovski Lovely Crystals.
the luxury of mother-of-pearl and diamonds, this quartz watch is an elegant example of noble understatement.
ENCHANTING COMBINATIONS Jaquet Droz (1.0, C25) likewise ennobles mother-of-pearl with creative details. Stainless steel and mother-of-pearl are enchantingly combined in the Petite Heure Minute 35 mm. The undisputed eyecatcher here is the shimmery blue
mother-of-pearl dial, which is further adorned with a sunburst design. Eight stars shining between the rays create the impression of a velvety and consummately beautiful night sky, which is further accentuated by 160 diamonds twinkling along the bezel. Emile Chouriet (2.2, B13) also spotlights mother-of-pearl with creative details. Stainless steel and mother-of-pearl are enchantingly combined in the Moonphase. The
makers of this watch took great efforts to assure that it looks feminine and luxurious, thus enabling it to serve as an appropriate home for the high-quality self-winding movement featuring an exclusive modul, which ticks inside. The eyecatcher here is the shimmery mother-of-pearl moon, which rotates around the dial. Diamond stars shining between the decor of the sophisticated dial lend the impression of a realistic night sky.
NEWS
MORNING HAS BROKEN SWISS TIME DRAWS INSPIRATION FROM MOTHER NATURE by Sabine Zwettler
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s fresh as the morning dew that covers leaves with thousands of tiny droplets, the Sparkle watch enlaces a lady’s wrist. A ribbon of crystals accentuates its delicate dewdrop shape and soft colours. This is a watch that exudes peace and calm, not least in the white dial embellished with an applied flower motif which is also set with some forty crystals. And because a watch of course tells the time, Sparkle has two hands, one for the hours and one for the minutes, although these are discreetly positioned at the bottom of the dial as though determined not to disturb the harmony of the whole. The watch is driven by a quartz movement. 2.0, E07
Swiss Time Sparkle.
GUESS introduces a new version of Rigor. Measuring fully 45 mm in diameter, the timepiece completes the men’s ensemble, thanks to the original fashion inspired design. The Rigor silhouette is available in a variety of textural and tonal variations, including genuine leather straps, steel linked bracelets and a new smooth blue silicone strap. Each version features an etched top ring surrounding a carbon fiber-inspired dial and is equipped with an oversized crown and screw details. (sz) 1.2, A41
30 WATCHES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
HIGH FIRE BEAUTY URBAN JÜRGENSEN ADDS THE BEAUTY OF ENAMEL TO ITS UNIQUE DÉTENTE ESCAPEMENT CALIBRE
A host of pinkhued watches is showcased at BASELWORLD.
by Elizabeth Doerr
T
wo years ago Urban Jürgensen introduced Calibre UJS-P8 here at BASELWORLD: the first detente escapement successfully incorporated into a wristwatch. Last year, this movement, the concept of which is known for its frailty – precisely the reason it had not yet been fitted into a portable wristwatch – was even certified by the Swiss institute Chronofiable. With this year’s Montre Observatoire à Émail, Urban Jürgensen adds to the beauty of this classic timepiece with an age-old craft: enamel. “The effort put into this dial was nothing short of titanic,” says CEO Dr. Helmut Crott. “With its handcrafted elements including transparent enamel and our own manufacture of the enamel, this slightly ivory-coloured dial is certainly unique on the market.” Indeed, the luminosity of the dial is founded in the absorption of the light that is emanated by the handmade dial’s 18K gold background and the special quality of the transparent enamel, which is manufactured in-house from a silicon crystal that is usually only utilized to created flint glass. “Flint lenses are used for special optical machines that observe orbit. Alongside the intensity of colour, it is the glass and the technique used that allow us to reach this special visual dial depth.” The dial is fired a full fifteen times at more than 800°C and then completely hand-painted with numerals. This high-fire (Grand Feu) process ensures many rejects, making the surviving dials that much rarer and more valuable. Thus connecting with centuries of this brand’s history, this version will only be released in a limited edition in 18K gold. Palace 4C
Revue Thommen Classical 82 Round.
RED AND PINK REMAIN EN VOGUE AS POPULAR AS EVER: GOLD TAKES ON COLOUR
by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
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old with a maidenly blush looks softer, sunnier and more seductive than ever. Rose gold remains extremely popular for elegant and classical watches. Rose gold flatters the skin and looks simultaneously warm and harmonious, so it’s not surprising that designers adore this coyly blushing and unflaggingly popular precious metal. The blend determines the hue: pure gold is so soft that it must be admixed with other metals to make the alloy sufficiently hard to serve as a watch’s case, and these admixed metals also influence
the gold’s colour. Copper is responsible for the beloved rose shimmer, which make it appear more red or yellow, depending on the percentages of the metals in the mixture. Skilful alloying enables metallurgists to achieve some 300 different gold hues. The currently most popular colour gleams in the showcases of all the big brands at BASELWORLD. Patek Philippe, for example, presents its new Calatrava Reference 5227 in rose gold and proudly debuts a modernised case with classical lines and a slimmer bezel in combination with self-winding calibre 324 SC, which is widely admired in the
OFF THE BEATEN PATHS CLERC GENÈVE INTRODUCES INNOVATIVE CHRONOGRAPH MODEL
by Sabine Zwettler
T Urban Jürgensen Montre Observatoire à Email.
wo central hands as chronograph counters: such is the innovative solution proposed by Clerc Genève. The first indicates the seconds, and the second counts off the minutes. Loyal to the design of the Hydroscaph line, this instrument is waterresistant to 500 metres and is debuting in a robust 103-part black DLC-coated stainless steel case
featuring the signature lateral reinforcements and an octagonal bezel. The watch is driven by the C.O.S.C.certified calibre Clerc C608 and can be admired through the sapphire crystal in the case back. The black dial does not only indicate the chronograph function in a special way but features also a date and a 24-hour day/night indication. 1.1, A79
world of horology. The rose gold on the case reappears on the dial, where it graces the applied indexes, the hands and the frame around the date window. The new Calatrava in rose gold proves how beautifully the pink Dubey & Schaldenbrand nuance can be paired Grand Dôme DT Rose Gold. with a pale dial. This juxtaposition is also used by Revue Thommen in its new Classical 82 Round, with black, as is impressively shown which alludes to historical pilots’ by a new watch from Dubey & watches but boasts a modernised Schaldenbrand. The Grand Dôme dial on which the hands and indexes DT Rose Gold makes a self-configleam with the same rose gold hue dent impression in its tonneauthat distinguishes the case. Spelling shaped case. The red gold used for out the “12” in letters gives an this case reappears on the dial, appealingly nostalgic look to this where it forms interlocking rings watch, which is animated by handaround the various displays. Classic wound manufacture calibre GT 82. chronograph calibre Valjoux 7751 Rose gold or red gold with white powers displays for the hour, is a winning team, but the warmly minute, day of the week, date, month reddish hue also goes perfectly well and moon’s phase. 1.1, A79
Clerc Genève Hydroscaph Limited Edition Central Chronograph.
32 WATCHES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
LOOKING BACK IN TIME WATCHES IN VINTAGE LOOK ARE INSPIRED BY THE RECENT OR MORE DISTANT PAST by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
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rt Déco, the 1950s or the wild ’70s: the styles of bygone epochs continue to thrive today. New watches at BASELWORLD show how remarkably contemporary the good old days can be. With its stylised and planar depictions of floral motifs, Art Déco catapulted art and design into the classical modern period. Great
designs from the Art Déco era still spark enthusiasm today. Other decades similarly exert a lasting influence: the 1950s, for example, when designers moved freely between tradition and modernity, or the 1970s, which coincided with the heyday of the exuberantly cheerful and gaudily colourful Flower Power years. Stylistic elements that typified these epochs have stood the test of time and are enjoying a
West End Watch Queen Anne Automatic Chronograph.
HEARD IN BASEL
comeback. “Vintage” is trendy nowadays, as numerous watch designers look back in time and reinterpret familiar styles. Inspired by their own histories, many brands release watches that revive bygone models, albeit in contemporary dimensions and with today’s aura. West End Watch gazes nearly a century into the past with its Queen Anne Automatic Chronograph, which is inspired by a historical model that was delivered to the Indian British Army during the First World War. Roman numerals and a bold minute-circle on the dial, complemented by an easy-togrip crown on the flank, give this watch a nostalgic appearance. Totally contemporary, on the other hand, is the polished steel case with its simple lines and classical black-and-white colour scheme. Corum revives a watch from 1958: the Heritage Vintage Chargé d’Affaires is a mechanical alarm watch that debuted 55 years ago and was depicted in the first catalogue published by the recently established Corum watch brand. This watch’s origins in the 1950s are also evident on its dial, where simple hands point to baton-shaped indexes, and in its now slightly enlarged white gold or red gold case, which houses a hand-wound movement. A red arrow on the dial indicates the preset alarm time. Vulcain looks back to the 1970s with its Nautical Seventies, a divers’
watch that can descend to 300 metres. Thanks to a threefold back which serves as a resonance chamber, this watch’s alarm can also be heard underwater. The dial of this stainless steel wristwatch is a replica of the model from 1970 and is printed with decompression tables. Of course, every divers’ watch which makes a splash underwater needs a rotatable bezel: this one’s bezel can be adjusted by turning a lockdown-crown at 4 o’clock.
A SMILEY SKULL
ALFEX INTRODUCES A NOTABLY THIN TIMEPIECE
TENDENCE SKULL REMINDS US ALL OF OUR MORTALITY IN A FASHIONABLE WAY by Nina Hald
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Ryota Aoyagi, President and CEO of Citizen Watch Co.
Corum Heritage Vintage Chargé d’Affaires.
SWEET SWING by Sabine Zwettler
“It is a great privilege for Citizen to participate in the newly revitalized BASELWORLD where all the watch brands of all the world come together.”
Corum’s staff advise a customer at their stand in Hall 1.0.
certain playfulness and a desire to have some fun inspired Alfex’s designers to create this new collection of original and playful watches with a vintage mood that evoke the carefree spirit of the 1920s. The small and elegant dial, with a diameter of just 15 millimetres, is given greater presence by the rectangle with rounded corners frame within which it slides. By moving the wrist, the wearer causes the dial to literally swing, thus amplifying the beat of time. The hours are indicated with linear markings at 12 and 6 o’clock. Following the Alfex philosophy, the watch becomes an accessory, and in this case, a piece of jewellery that marks the passing of the minutes as it swings to the pace of our daily lives. The Swing collection comes in three variations: two with simply coloured dials –silver and black – paired with a steel bracelet, and a third with a pure silver dial in delicate contrast to its gold bracelet. The steel links form a chain of rectangle that echoes the dial’s frame. Swing is equipped with a Swiss made quartz movement 1.2, B01 and is waterproof to 3 atmospheres.
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Alfex Swing.
s small macabre reminders and tokens of mortality, fashion once more bestow us with memento mori symbols. Gothic and grotesque, Swarovski bejewelled skulls are making their presence known on the watch dials of the Tendence Skull collection. Following the success and popularity of the previous Tendence Skul collection, BASELWORLD 2013 sees the premiere of the new collection. Each of the five Tendence Skull watches features a distince Skull symbol on the dial, which blends perfectly with the audacious brand design and style appeal. A variety of platings including rose gold, yellow gold and silver are available and one model features Swarovski crystals on the bezel as well as the Skull symbol. Thanks to co-marketing with Crystal Head Vodka, each Skull
watch comes in special Skull packaging, complete with a Crystal Head Vodka Skull shot glass, designed by the renowned American artist John Alexander. 1.2, A31
Tendence Skull.
tHE LONg tRADItION Of DEtROIt WAtCHMAkINg HAS juSt BEguN. Th e R u nwe ll feAtu r i ng A wh ite diAl with r e mote Swe e p Secon d i n A StAi n leSS Ste e l cASe An d detroit-b u i lt Argon ite 1069 move m e nt.
As makers of handcrafted watches, bicycles, leather goods, and journals, we believe that products should be built to last, and they should be built here in America. Shinola stands for skill at scale, the preservation of craft, the beauty of industry.
BASELWORLD HALL 1.2 BOOtH A23 SHINOLA.COM
34 WATCHES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
Ananta Chrono.
AN HOMAGE TO A PIONEER SEIKO’S ANANTA CHRONO EVOKES OLD JAPAN by William George Shuster
S
eiko’s new limited edition Ananta automatic chronograph, 300 pieces, stars a hand-painted lacquer dial in a deep blue, a colour never previously achieved with lacquer. The crescent moon on the watch dial’s left side is inspired by the helmet worn by Date Masamune, a famous 17th century Japanese Samurai warrior, diplomat and city founder. The 42.8 mm stainless steel timepiece houses a chronograph up to 12 hours and amasses a 45 hour power reserve. The sapphire crystal is treated with Seiko’s proprietary anti-reflective coating. 1.1., D79+D83
NEWS
Ulysse Nardin: Caprice Butterfly.
Ulysse Nardin’s display windows showcase watches which are deeply rooted in Swiss tradition.
THE FINE ART OF TRADITIONAL CRAFTSMANSHIP ENGRAVING, GUILLOCHE, ENAMELLING: NEW WATCHES REVITALISE THE FINEST TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
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ascinating pictures in miniature format: traditional crafts capture enchanting scenes and within the confines of a watch. The tiny stages for them are dials enlivened with engraved or enameled motifs. A proud ship surrounded by sunrays and two ships confronting each other in a naval battle: are the motifs on watches in the three-part HMS Victory Set from Arnold & Son, in which the English watch brand
celebrates both the art of engraving and a quintessentially British theme. One of the English navy’s most famous ships, the HMS Victory participated in many naval battles, including the battle of Trafalgar in 1805, when the Victory served as Lord Nelson’s flagship. This myth is revived on elegant dials that are first engraved by a master engraver and then plated with silver. The three-dimensionality of the scenes is further
Mademoiselle Privé Decor Coromandel.
accentuated by giving a matte finish to individual elements of the pictures. Classical hand-wound movements are ensconced inside the timepieces’ red gold cases. Enamel, on the other hand, plays with colours, e.g. on dials presented by Chanel and Ulysse Nardin. The dial of Chanel’s one-of-akind Mademoiselle Privé Decor Coromandel is adorned with landscape featuring a boat, cliffs and plants. This watch combines a highquality white gold case with diamonds and a self-winding mechanical movement. Likewise very charming are the masterfully enamelled motifs on the Ulysse Nardin’s Caprice Butterfly. Brilliant in blues, with a pop of berry, and delectably adorned with 3.8 carats of diamonds (353 to be exact), the 18K white gold watch
A MECHANICAL SCULPTURE L’EPÉE INTRODUCES LA TOUR HUSH PUPPIES – In 1958, Hush Puppies designed the first casual shoe and enjoyed powerful brand awareness worldwide. The watches were launched in 2002 consistent with the brand attributes casual, vintage and stylish. The new HP.3806M is a classical three-hand piece in the original casual style. It indicates the date at three o’clock and sits on a metal bracelet. (sz) 1.2, A01
by Sabine Zwettler
I
n keeping with its rich history, clockmaker L’Epée continues to demonstrate its savoir-faire with exceptional mechanical movements. Its latest invention, La Tour, is a clock in a completely new vein, with a power reserve of eight days. The clean, minimalist lines of its vertical structure become a canvas
for beautiful “Côtes de Genève” motifs on the skeleton plates in palladium or satin-finished gold. Each clock is inscribed with an individual number which is recorded along with full details of the clock. This mechanical sculpture is driven by the 1853 calibre with 18 jewels. As always, the cabinet is a lesson in
sobriety, its transparency serving to highlight the beauty of the movement as it catches the light. 2.0, D17
L’Epée La Tour.
has a grand entrance at this year’s BASELWORLD. Yet, it is the butterfly itself, produced in Enamel Champlevé, that further reveals the artistic mastery of Ulysse Nardin. In this technique, superior care and precision is crucial to its success. Cavities in a thick metal surface are created, filled with moist powdered enamel and fired. Sanding delicately by hand, an essential step maneuvered by the hands of experts, excess enamel is removed, allowing the enamel’s true colour and shine to break through. These vibrant, glistening hues are accented by strong metal borders, heightening the meticulous detail of this art form. Life-like in its illustration, the Caprice Butterfly timepiece is presented as a limited-edition collection of 28 pieces. It houses a stateof-the art self-winding movement.
Liveyour passion
with Runabout Moonphase & Riva Historical Society
The glamorous, powerful wood-hulled motor boats - so popular in the 20’s and 30’s - were the inspiration for the Runabout Moonphase, a timepiece designed to evoke passionate images of magnificent crafts and roaring engines, racing across the white-capped waters of pristine lakes. Frédérique Constant proudly supports the Riva Historical Society.
Contact. + 41 22 860 0440 . w w w.frederique-constant.com
Please visit us at Baselworld, Hall 1.1, Stand B79
Visit us in Hall 1.1 Stand D71
FERNANDO ALONSO COLLECTION
Twice World Drivers’ Champion
WATCHES 37 WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
THE BEAUTY OF MECHANISMS FASCINATING VIEWS INTO THE MOVEMENTS: MODERN SKELETONISED WATCHES AT BASELWORLD by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
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Epos 3424SK.
THE SPIRIT OF SPEEDOMETERS FROM THE SPORTY TO THE UNDERSTATED, BALCO HAS IT COVERED by Nina Hald
the automatic winding system, which Corum designed with two coupled oscillating weights. Franc Vila likewise presents a new staging of horological mechanisms in the FVi N°8 Tourbillon Intrepido SuperLigero Skeleton. An arcing frame calls attention to the dial, beneath which the movement’s components are arranged for maximal effect. Even the barrel is pierced to allow viewers to see the mainspring at the “12”. The tourbillon
PHONE TIME
3 QUESTIONS, 3 ANSWERS
SMART WATCH DEBUTING AT BASELWORLD
“No platform is better than Basel”
by Carol Besler
For how long has Erwin Sattler been exhibiting here?
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Men’s automatic watch from Balco.
spirit. Balco’s philosophy is to display time through a combination of deep knowledge of machinery and a touch of artistry, which opens the door for innovations. 1.2, C01
Our clock manufacture has shown its complete collection and its new items at BASELWORLD right from the start, when our company was called “Muba”. What is your most important new item in 2013?
“In recent years, we’ve earned an outstanding reputation as a maker of precision watch-movers. Our new Aero model, a precision watch-mover for four wristwatches, is styled like an aircraft. A Sattler airplane clock forms the fuselage and the watch-movers are integrated as turbines into the wings. It can be operated and programmed with every smartphone.” What role does tradition play for your firm?
Richard Müller, CEO Erwin Sattler.
i’m watch.
turns at the “6”. The ultra-light yet robust materials include lightnium: this alloy of aluminium and lithium, which is also used in aircraft, serves here as the tourbillon’s bridge. Silicon is the material of choice for the escape-wheel and the pallet-lever. All this is ensconced inside a titanium case with red gold inlays along its bezel. A rubber wristband completes this modern opus technicus. Epos unites traditional and modern skeletonising in its model 3424SK. The artisans began with Unitas’ hand-wound calibre 6497, which they manually embellished with openwork and engraved patterns. These steel parts are optionally available with a coating of black PVD, which gives them a modern and minimalistic look. The dial has a subdial for the seconds in the form of a pierced circle at the “9” and a minute-circle on the flange. Epos self-confidently describes this convincing watch as “the quintessence of time”.
Franc Vila FVi N°8 Tourbillon Intrepido SuperLigero Skeleton.
he i’m watch is the world’s first luxury smart wristwatch for iPhone and Android, entirely made in Italy. The watch was developed by engineer Manuel Zanella and his partner, architect and designer Massimiliano Bertolini. This smart watch will enable wearers to receive the full range of smart phone functions, including calls, text messages, e-mails, notifications, music, agenda information, weather forecasts, photos or applications. The watches are available in three versions and are made of gold, silver or platinum, combined with digital technologies. 2.0, A01
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he philosophy of the watch brand Balco is the use of wisdom to create simplicity and delicacy. Combining traditional Swiss watchmaking skills and modern designs, Balco values technical proficiency and exquisite craftsmanship in the manufacture of every part of its timepieces. Undivided attention is given to each step of the production process and every small part is made to perfection. The watches are the outcome of meticulousness and innovation rather than being simple timing tools or decorative pieces. Every collection of Balco is filled with the inspiration of designers and the skilful technique of watchmakers. Balco’s range caters for both sexes and most tastes, ranging from sporty to understated elegance. The selfwinding Speed range makes use of subdials, echoing the speedometers of racing cars, and three timer buttons imply a further competitive
skeletonised movement makes the mechanisms into elements of the design. Gazing into a skeletonised calibre is an unforgettable experience. Clear shapes, graphic lines and high-mech as an aesthetic element: new skeletonised watches ably embody avant-garde watchmaking. Scarcely any other traditional craft has changed as drastically as skeletonising. Watchmakers in bygone days strove to pare away the greatest possible amount of material from the components, which they then decorated with nostalgic patterns, but their modern-day descendants prioritise a high-mech aesthetic that presents the mechanism in the most flattering light through graphic staging and an appealing arrangement. The latest Ti-Bridge from Corum epitomises this new approach. The minimalistic styling of the TiBridge Automatic Dual Winder’s titanium case continues inside the watch, where the gear-train is linearly arranged. An interesting detail in this model is
“The Erwin Sattler clock manufacture was established in 1958. We’re proud that our masterpieces integrate the best inventions from 400 years of horological tradition, thus preserving those inventions for the future. Together with our staff of thirty colleagues, we make more than 1,000 precise clocks each year. Our ultra-accurate mechanical pendulum clocks deviate from perfect timekeeping by a mere two seconds per month. We want to preserve this clockmaking tradition for the future.”
38 WATCHES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
Pierre DeRoche TNT Royal Retro Power Reserve.
Visitors are attracted by Swiss brand Armand Nicolet’s showcases.
A NEWCOMER ESTABLISHES ITSELF
Armand Nicolet L09.
MODERN AND EXPRESSIVE: NEW TITANIUM WATCHES FROM SPORTY TO COMPLEX by Iris Wimmer-Olbort
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itanium began as a rarity in the watch world later became a preferred material for sport watches, and now even serves as cases for sophisticated complications. In the vastness of outer space, in the depths of the oceans and even inside the human body: versatile titanium is advantageous in many applications. Not to mention its aura: this metal’s dark, technical-
NEWS MEISTERSINGER – This German brand presented its first one-handed watch at BASELWORLD in 2001. Embodying the philosophy of “decelerated time”, it was immediately welcomed by aficionados of minimalistic watch design. Now the Neo F Q ladies’ watch debuts: a lone hand circles above its dial, which is embellished with a sunburst pattern. The model is available in three versions, each of which is animated by an ETA quartz movement. The 36 mm steel case is affixed to a velour leather strap. Meistersinger also includes a second interchangeable wristband along with each delivery. Thanks to a special method, the bands can be switched easily and without tools. The Neo F Q is also available in a version with two hands. (sz) 2.0, A45
looking, silvery grey shimmer has made it popular as a material for watch cases. Connoisseurs appreciate both its sporty appearance and its material properties, including its low specific gravity: titanium is 42 percent lighter in weight than an equal volume of stainless steel. And the high-tech metal is also very tough and resistant. Titanium enlivens many sporty collections at BASELWORLD, and it’s also being used increasingly
often to encase movements with sophisticated complications. Young and wild watch designers frequently stage their radically avantgarde creations in titanium, which visitors can discover, for example, in the Palace, where MCT presents the Sequential One - S110 with emphat-
ically technical styling. The titanium case contains a handwound movement that propels the minute-hand, while the current hour’s digit appears on a quartet of pivoting panels. The minute-circle rotates to reveal a different digit each hour. A fascinating spectacle is the impressive result. Pierre DeRoche likewise eschews a classical dial for the TNT Royal Retro Power Reserve, which encases an exclusive self-winding
SHARK WATCHES IN SILICONE
calibre from Dubois Dépraz. The seconds are shown in retrograde manner on four arcs, which are interrupted only by a powerreserve display at the “6”. The exposed gears of the movement further accentuate this watch’s high-tech charm. The case follows suit: a titanium container coated with black PVD combines here with a steel bezel, steel horns and a steel crown protector. Armand Nicolet presents the new model L09, which offers an unobstructed view of its movement. A hand-wound calibre displays the hours, minutes and seconds inside a boldly styled and generously proportioned titanium case coated with black DLC. Thanks to titanium’s low weight, this watch rests comfortably atop its wearer’s wrist, a place where this remarkable metal is increasingly often found nowadays.
TF EST. 1968 cufflinks.
BE WILD – AND GO BOLD WITH THE SHARK SILICONE WATCH COLOURS FROM MISAKI by Roberta Naas
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aving worked with materials from the sea for over 25 years – pearl jewellery with saltwater cultured pearls such as Akoya and Tahiti pearls – it was a natural step for Monte Carlo-based jewellery and watch designer Misaki to look towards sharks for the company’s watch collection for ladies and gents. The Shark Watch Collection, inspired by the graceful silhouette of the shark, pays tribute to the beauty of this mysterious creature, perfected over millions of years of evolution and whose magnificent form reigns over the endless blue oceans. The Shark Watch Collection is available in nine designs and models, with or without a chronograph, and boasts an array of beautiful colour combina-
ACCESSORY WITH HOROLOGICAL AMBITIONS TF EST. 1968 UNVEILS NEW CUFFLINKS by Roberta Naas
H Misaki Shark Watch Collection.
tions ranging from pink, blue, white and red among others. Combined with a silicone or a leather strap, the watches offer many possibilities to suit every taste. 2.1, K80
aving established more than 500 retail outlets in two years to carry its products, Swiss TF Est. 1968 offers watch-inspired cufflinks that include moon phases and tourbillons. Now, the brand brings the collection to new heights – offering a vast array of tourbillon cufflink models now in a host of colours. These round steel cufflinks feature a genuine watchmaking mecha-
nism in perfect working order – so they move with the wearer’s every move. The cufflinks are held in place with a precision spring clasp, and are water-resistant, airtight and resistant to shocks. Whereas previously the cufflinks were offered with either a steel or gold background, they now come with a background (dial) colour of chocolate brown, silver or amethyst. 2.2, D35
Cristiano Ronaldo
SF 24
Split Flap Display 45mm 18K Rose Gold Automatic Movement B A S E LW O R L D
H A L L 1 . 1 S TA N D B 3 1
New York +1.212.888.2330 Geneva +41.22.310.6962
jacobandco.com
40 WATCHES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
REVOLUTIONARY RETROGRADE HAUTLENCE MAKES HAUTE HORLOGERIE TRANSPARENT AND INTERESTING by Elizabeth Doerr
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autlence finally launched its second full development in 2011 after four years of research, development and tweaking. The HL2.0 earned three patents (for the hour chain, the mobile bridge, and the
double spring barrels) and became one of the most talked-about timepieces of the haute horlogerie year. This year at BASELWORLD, Hautlence launches an automatic version of the HL2.0, which necessitates a somewhat more comprehensive casing than that of the almost fully transparent manually wound version. The automatic versions now come encased in 18K gold (HL2.1), 4N 18K red gold (HL2.2) and blackened titanium (HL2.3) cases measuring 50 mm x 42 mm x 17.8 mm. To accommodate the automatic winding and its 18K red gold rotor, the threedimensional movement of the HL2.3 has shifted very slightly, though all the basic premises remain the same, including the hours displayed by a twelve-link “chain” comprising twelve numbers and hinged on a system of pallets. The retrograde minutes are still displayed in the centre of the movement, while a power reserve indicator shows the state of winding. The movement comprises 552 individual parts including 92 jewelled bearings, all very visibly finely finished within their sheath of sapphire crystal. Limited to just 28 pieces in each version, it comes in a set with a special travel box, a loupe, and a three-year guarantee. 0.F, Palace 2C
GUSTAFSSON & SJÖGREN PRODUCE ONE-OF-A-KIND GOS TIMEPIECES
A selection of timepieces from Hautlence.
by Elizabeth Doerr
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Hautlence’s HL2.3.
TRANSFORMER WRISTWATCH REBELLION’S MECHANICAL RACING-INSPIRED T-1000 BOASTS ONE THOUSAND HOURS OF POWER RESERVE by Elizabeth Doerr
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Mindblowing watches at the Rebellion stand.
SWEDISH TRADITION, DAMASCUS STEEL
aunched in 2008, Rebellion is a young independent Swiss manufacturer based in Lonay, Switzerland. The brand’s powerful, idiosyncratic timepieces generate emotional and intellectual responses, which certainly represent part of the contemporary identity for dynamic and technically astute individuals of the modern era. Racing is an element inherent to Rebellion thanks to the brand’s founder, who also owns a racing team aptly named Rebellion Racing. The professional team, which includes driver Nico Prost (son of Alain Prost), regularly takes part in the gruelling Transformer or wristwatch: Rebellion’s T-1000 Gotham.
Le Mans Series with Lola-Toyota racing machines. And it is precisely at the arduous 24 Hours of Le Mans that Rebellion’s creators had the inspiration for the adventurous T-1000, a model that splits its claim to fame between 1,000 hours of power reserve and a design like no other. While watching the cars race a top speed for 24 hours, the Rebellion team asked itself, “Why not a watch with a huge power reserve, like 1,000 hours?” While the original limited edition was vaguely reminiscent of a racing machine, the ensuing extensions seem to venture into science fiction. This year’s 25-piece limited-edition T-1000 Gotham looks more like a Transformer or a comic book superhero’s tank than a wristwatch. However, its six spring barrels, visible vertical tourbillon, and cylindrical time display remind us that this is a high-end wristwatch encased in titanium. 0.F, Palace 6C
epresenting Scandinavia within the Palace Hall, GoS Watches introduces timepieces from Nordic series and premiere a truly unique Winter Nights at BASELWORLD. Bladesmith Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren use the cold, natural northern climate of Sweden and its ancient metallurgical traditions as their inspiration. Produced in a limited series of only 10 pieces, these are the first GoS watches to feature a manually wound movement by Martin Braun. They make it their own with a 4/5-plate crafted in solid, hand-forged Damascus steel. Sjögren designed the plate to be as large as possible in order to show the damascened material to advantage and finished the parts to provide a balance between the raw Damascus steel surface and the traditional high polish of horological bevelled edges. “Finishing Damascus steel is very labour-intensive as every part is polished, bevelled and etched several times to achieve the final result,” he explained. The movement is outfitted with Braun’s progressive silicon HPE escapement. The dial boasts 128 layers of true folded, hand-forged, damascened steel, which displays a pattern invented by Gustafsson. The fascinating Winter Nights dial is an interpretation of the rapidly changing sky during the phenomenon known as the Northern Lights. Winter Nights — Vinternätter in Swedish — is also the name of an ancient festival that was first celebrated in preChristian Scandinavia during the month of October. 0.F, Palace P03
The GoS Winter Nights watch.
42 MARKETS WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
CHINESE TASTES FOR SWISS LUXURY CHINA HAS A GROWING APPETITE FOR SWISS LUXURY WATCHES AND INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY BRANDS by Pooja Agarwal
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hinese tourists are spending more on their foreign travels, snapping up fine Swiss watches and luxury jewellery as they visit popular hubs, while inside China years of growth in demand for luxury goods is showing signs of slowing down due to an anti-corruption drive and weaker than expected economic growth. China’s rapid industrialization and its emergence as the world’s second biggest economy after the United States, has fuelled a boom in Chinese demand for luxury goods in recent years. Shoppers show an insatiable taste for wellknown brands, from Rolex watches to Bulgari fine jewellery. Chinese companies are expected to start buying up international watches and jewellery brands increasingly in coming years in order to absorb some of China’s huge demand for luxury goods. This month, the Swiss watchmaker Corum issued a statement that the company had been acquired by China Haidian. China Haidian said it had acquired 100 percent of Corum for 86 million Swiss francs. The sale is expected to anchor China Haidian’s position in the Swiss luxury watch sector. Luxury watchmakers have expanded rapidly in recent years in Greater China, which includes Hong Kong, Macau and Taiwan as well as the mainland – and reported double-digit sales growth rates there until last summer. But now the region is being hit by the government’s crackdown on gifts for favours, and is feeling the impact from a wider slowdown in the Chinese economy.
President Frank Wu of ttf.
Necklace Lotus withwhite jade, by ttf Haute Joaillerie.
“70 percent of our business is in the local market, which is growing very fast in the high jewellery segment.” Frank Wu
Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, the Swiss luxury watch brand says, “Even though China is a big market, for Hublot it is a small market representing only 3 percent of our sales (excluding Hong Kong) taking place inside Mainland China.” “Our challenge is to succeed in China. I have a potential of sales which is huge. I can do 10 times of what I am doing today. China is a big and difficult market. Step by step things are changing and we are working hard on the Mainland China market. We are a young brand with a unique concept.” Hong Kong, part of China but ranked separately, holds the title as the biggest global customer for Swiss watches. Hong Kong imported 4.3 billion dollars in Swiss watches in 2012, a 6.8 percent increase from the previous year. Hong Kong, China and Singapore together accounted for more than a third of global sales. Yet, despite the region’s overall strength, trends in the Asian market varied widely. While Swiss watch exports to Hong Kong rose significantly, those Inspired by Tang poetry, the founder of Inspired by Tang poetry, the founder of Longio, to China increased only by 0.6 Longio, Mi Changhong, is presenting Mi Changhong, is presenting hishis new work of art. percent. new work of art.
China reported 4 billion dollars in exports of watches and clocks in 2012, and said its total sales of 7.5 billion dollars rose by 10 percent. Lego S.H. Zhu, the Vice-President of the Shenzhen Watch & Clock Association states, “Over 100 Chinese companies are using their Hong Kong or Swiss holding companies to showcase at BASELWORLD,” making the presence of China at the show significant.
GROWTH AT A FAST RATE China has the largest press presence at BASELWORLD this year, another indication of the importance of its gem and jewellery sector. Organisers of BASELWORLD said that one-seventh of the 3,500 journalists registered to cover the show were from China. In 2011, ttf Haute Joaillerie became the first Chinese jewellery company to exhibit its collections in the prestigious Hall 2.1. In 2012, ttf Haute Joaillerie invited French craftsman Serge Nedot to become its technical supervisor of high jewellery. Having worked for top international brands, including Boucheron, he brought 42 years of experience to ttf. President Frank Wu of ttf,
headquartered in Shenzhen, reveals, “70 percent of our business is in the local market, which is growing very fast in the high jewellery segment. In the past three years, we have seen more than 15 percent annual growth in the Chinese market. The global luxury brands want to enter China as they know that the market is growing at an unbelievable rate.”
CHINESE LUXURY SHOPPERS ABROAD As Beijing continues its campaign against official public luxury spending, wealthy Chinese tourists have increased their spending overseas. An executive summary by FT China Confidential on outbound Chinese shoppers highlighted the impacts of this free-spending contingent on the luxury industries. “China’s middleclass affinity with overseas travel is set to burgeon in 2013, with the wealthiest 26 percent of outbound tourists spending an average of 43,770 Chinese yuan (7,032 US dollars) on each trip,” it said.
ONLINE LUXURY PURCHASES A recent study by KPMG said that of the 538 million Chinese who regularly use the internet, 40 percent of the wealthy Chinese interviewed expressed an increased interest in shopping online, compared to only 22 percent in 2011. The main reason wealthy Chinese browse the internet is to compare products online (76 percent of those inter-
viewed) and identify the lowest price (65 percent). However, many wealthy Chinese still refrain from actual online purchases (72 percent) for fear of buying a counterfeit product; and 55 percent are concerned about after sales service.
CHINESE JEWELLERIES IN 2012 Total Sales
$ 30 billion
Export
$ 15 billion
Import
$ 6.5 billion
CHINESE WATCHES & CLOCKS IN 2012 Sales Value
16.33%
Export Value
11.21%
Total Sales Rate
98.03%
Total Sales Value
10% $ billion
Export Volume
1.46 billion pieces
Export Volume
$ 4 billion
Import Volume
6.9 million pieces
Import Value
$ 3.5 billion
MARKETS 45 WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
Pearls from London Pearl (London).
Pearls from Ruppenthal.
SECOND BOUTIQUE FOR TAG HEUER
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PEARLS AS EVERYDAY COMPANIONS
PEARL JEWELLERY NEEDS TO EMERGE FROM ITS DUSTY HIDING PLACE. THIS CLASSIC ITEM FEATURES IN THE JEWELLERY BOX OF VIRTUALLY EVERY WOMAN, YET IT IS OFTEN REGARDED PURELY AS A SOURCE OF REVENUE. by Axel Henselder
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he last time pearl jewellery wrote style history was during the reign of King Edward VII of England, between 1901 and 1910. This so-called Edwardian style was shaped by his wife, the Danish princess Alexandra and was defined by the use of platinum, diamonds and pearls, particularly in the form of long chains. Her style characterised the Roaring Twenties across the globe. It was fitting that Mikimoto developed a method of cultivating pearls almost at the same time as this new fashion emerged. But this new discovery was both a curse and a blessing. On the one hand, it enabled broader categories of society to afford pearl jewellery. But on the other, the Chinese began to create cheap massproduced goods from pearls and have now been flooding the market with freshwater cultured pearls for decades. This has permanently damaged the price and mystique of pearls. Pearl jewellery has been a classic ever since and should be found in almost every jewellery box. This jewel of the sea has become a little outdated and is often only worn on rare occasions, causing it to be classed as a niche category at jewellery stores. People who already own a chain of pearls see no reason to purchase another one. Attempts to give pearl jewellery a younger image and thereby reinvigorate sales continue. But without great success. In the USA, pearl jewellery
accounts for just 2 percent of the turnover in the specialist sales category. The situation is not much better in Germany. The following tips show how jewellers can improve business with this treasure of the seas:
1. Emphasise the uniqueness of pearls: Pearls are the only jewels which nature supplies us ready to wear. It is a truly unadulterated wonder. Pearls also reflect an unspoilt natural environment. After all, pearl oysters react with extreme sensitivity to any pollution. Pearls can only be farmed in completely clean and nutrient-rich water. Pearls are therefore an ecologically harmless product. And what’s more, every pearl is just as unique as its wearer. No two pearls are the same. 2. Romanticise the origin of the
pearls: Every pearl tells a story of an unspoilt natural landscape, turquoise-blue waters, lagoons, coral reefs, colourful fish, tropical beaches with palm trees and a Japanese tradition. These associations should be evoked in the consumer. The origin of the different pearl types should therefore be identified and explained. These motifs could also be used in targeted advertising and at the point of sale.
3. Ensure you and your sales staff are prepared for the sales discussion: The range of qualities and prices of pearl jewellery are
extremely broad. This should be explained to the customer in a plausible manner. The origins, colour, size, lustre, surface, layer thickness etc. are all quality features which should be clearly explained. Staff should be well-versed in the differences between the significant pearl types. We recommend attending training sessions such as those offered by the big suppliers.
6. Wear pearl jewellery: You and your sales staff should wear what you want to sell. After all, how can customers be expected to be enthusiastic about a product if the jeweller does not show confidence in it? Ideally, female sales staff should combine the pearl jewellery with a T-shirt and jeans to show how youthful and varied pearl jewellery can be.
4. Present a wide range of pearl jewellery: Selling pearl jewellery successfully requires the full diversity to be presented. This applies both to the different types of pearls and the price categories which should range from the entry-level category to premium products. Only then can young customers, too, be persuaded to purchase pearl jewellery. Stylistic diversity should also be covered.
7. Demonstrate that pearl jewellery is youthful: Focus on young and fashionable pearl jewellery designs, for example combined with silver, steel or leather. This will allow you to combat the prejudice held by many consumers that pearls are old-fashioned. All manufacturers are now offering youthful ranges at attractive entry-level prices.
5. Be creative with your display window designs: Highlight a particularly opulent necklace, a unique designer item or jewellery recently worn by a celebrity in your shop window. This will direct the attention to your product range. Avoid exhibiting pearl jewellery in the conservative corner with diamond or gold jewellery. Instead give this treasure of the seas its own platform. A longing for paradise and pearl jewellery can be evoked using images of South Sea beaches, underwater worlds and decorative items such as shells and fine sand.
8. Organise events relating to pearls: Attract attention to pearl jewellery by holding events in relation to your pearl jewellery offer. Organise a pearl week, for example, where everything at your store rotates around your pearl jewellery offering. You could also host an evening event during this week. During the event, you could screen films or give talks to your customers about pearl farming. You can also demonstrate how pearl jewellery fits in with modern fashions during a fashion show, perhaps in collaboration with a neighbouring boutique. You have the opportunity to present the full range of your offer. Suppliers support such events.
AG Heuer is the world‘s fourth largest producer of luxury watches and chronographs. In addition to the first German boutique, opened last year in Munich, a second is now planned for Goethestraße, the premium shopping district at the heart of Frankfurt. From September on, TAG Heuer fans should have the opportunity to immerse themselves in the over 150-year history (1860-2013) of the brand on a two-storey area of over 100 square metres. Alongside the latest technical creations from the haute horlogerie workshop of the brand the familiar TAG Heuer series Formula 1, Aquaracer, Link/ Link Lady, Carrera/Grand Carrera and Monaco will be on display, ensuring a unique shopping experience in the banking metropolis. In addition to the watches, customers will also be able to purchase luxury mobile phones, glasses and accessories of the brand here. 1.0, D01
CHINESE TREAT THEMSELVES TO LUXURY
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he rich and super rich in China continue to treat themselves to luxury. They have even displaced the USA from the top spot as buyers of sophisticated and expensive goods. The growing number of middle-class and rich Chinese with more than 12.5 million euros and the 251 dollarbillionaires in the country are responsible for about 25 percent of worldwide sales of luxury goods in China and abroad, the consultancy Bain & Co. has discovered. In second place is the USA with 20 percent, followed by the Japanese, who purchase 14 percent of luxury goods. However, warning signs can also be seen in this boom market. China’s millionaires have become significantly more cautious when it comes to spending their money, not least because they have lost a lot of money on the stock exchange. The efforts of the Chinese government to fight corruption are also having an effect. Watch providers have observed that Chinese officials have become far more cautious when it comes to accepting excessively generous gifts. Nevertheless, the luxury market in China will remain promising for a further 10 years, especially until Europe and the USA have overcome their crises, forecasts Bain. (ahe)
46 MARKETS WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
STRATEGIC MOVE NEW RETAIL STRATEGIES REQUIRED by Axel Henselder
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n the coming years we will be faced with one of the most far-reaching changes to affect retail. On the one hand, technological developments such as mobile payment and smart prognostics are changing expectations with regard to buying and selling. However, anyone focusing solely on this technology will fail to recognise the actual strategic change that is occurring in sales. This is the conclusion of a new trend study conducted by the German trend research institute 2b.ahead ThinkTank. Author of the trend analysis is Sven Gabor Janszky, trend and future researcher and Director of the think tank. He describes how, in addition to mobile payment, we are currently experiencing a fundamental change in values in our sales processes. This is leading to a far-reaching transformation of our markets. The former market pyramid with economy, standard and
premium areas no longer exists in this form in the majority of segments. In future there will only be two segments of real significance: the economy level and the premium segment. The future of sales will differ markedly in both areas: the economy level will be determined by the individual and adaptive weighing up of quality and price in the future. Here the customers trust the recommendations on their phones more than the sales personnel. In the premium segment, in contrast, shoppers consciously switch off their electronic sales assistants, because the buying decision is not dependent upon quality and price. Products and brands act as identity managers for the customer in this segment. In total, 214 experts were interviewed, the majority managers of marketleading companies. Using this as a basis, the study describes the ten most important trend fields for sales.
FROM A SINGLE SOURCE OBRIST BUILDS TRADE SHOW STAND FOR BASELWORLD by Markus Strehlitz
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ASELWORLD has been very successful for the shop-fitter Obrist. “A lot of visitors were interested in our stand,” says Martin Wiedmer, Interior Designer at Obrist. The best advertisement for the Swiss company can be seen on the ground floor in Hall 1. The Rolex stand was produced and installed by Obrist. “Our greatest strength is that we can offer everything from one place – the design,
production, installation and associated logistics,” says Wiedmer. “The big challenge with the Rolex stand was the short time frame available to us,” Wiedmer continues. The entire project including the production and installation had to be completed within a year. BASELWORLD is the only trade show for which Obrist constructs stands. Otherwise the company focuses on developing stores for the watch and jewellery industry. 1.1, E70
3 QUESTIONS, 3 ANSWERS “The quality of the exhibitors is very high” What is your impression of BASELWORLD this year?
“I have come after a gap of 6 years and I’m very impressed. I regret missing out on the last 6 editions. The quality of the exhibitors is very high.” Why do you think it’s important to attend the show?
“It provides a retailer like me, who is interested in fine jewellery, the opportunity to not only find good suppliers, but be inspired to go back home and make new and innovative jewellery.” Is it easy for you to locate the companies you want to visit?
“This year, all the halls are very well organised and the BASELWORLD App makes it so convenient to navigate and access the stands.”
SALES SEGMENTS TODAY AND IN 2020
Source: 2b.ahaed Trend Study
Ishu Datwani from Anmol Jewellers.
The Obrist stand at BASELWORLD.
SHOPPING BEHAVIOUR OF TOURISTS GERMAN RETAIL PROFITS FROM GUESTS FROM THE FAR EAST
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he tourist barometer of the financial services provider Global Blue indicates that traders in Germany achieve the most tax-free sales with Chinese tourists. These were responsible for a 31-percent share, followed by Russian tourists with 23 percent. The following places were occupied by Switzerland, the United Arab Emirates, Japan, Brazil, Thailand, Taiwan, the Ukraine and Kuwait. The most popular cities for foreign shoppers in the period from January to December were Munich and Frankfurt am Main, with 22 percent each. These two cities were followed by Berlin (15 percent), Düsseldorf (7 percent), Hamburg (5 percent), Cologne, also 5 percent. 3 percent and less was recorded for Metzin-
gen, Stuttgart, Nuremberg and Dresden. Amongst Chinese tourists purchases of watches and jewellery were most popular, at 53 percent of purchases. An average of over 600 euros was spent in the shops. In the period from January to September 2012 Russian visitors spent an average of 351 euros on shopping, 44 percent more than in the same period the previous year. The most important sectors here are fashion and clothing, followed by visits to department stores and, at 12 percent, the purchase of watches and jewellery. The largest increase in sales with Russian tourists was recorded in Dresden, with growth of 99 percent, and in Baden-Baden, with an increase of 80 percent. However, this does not alter the fact that
the most popular city in Germany for Russians is Munich (30 percent), followed by Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt am Main and Hamburg. Somewhat surprisingly, Arab tourists are primarily interested in fashion and clothing (44 percent). This is followed by purchases in department stores (16 percent) and then watch and jewellery outlets (13 percent). The average shopping price increased by 37 percent to 296 euros per shop receipt in the time from January to September 2012 compared to the same period the previous year. Alongside Munich, Frankfurt, Düsseldorf, Berlin and Hamburg, Cologne, Bonn, Ingolstadt, Stuttgart and Metzingen are preferred shopping locations for Arab visitors.
Photo: Thinkstock(1)
by Axel Henselder
Germany is the preferred shopping location in Europe.
HALL 1.1 B83
JEWELLERY WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
HIGHLIGHTS
A STYLISH UNION OF TECHNOLOGY AND RESEARCH
52 ODES TO LOVE
REBECCA: A ‘YOUNG’ AND RAPIDLY GROWING BRAND Interview by Gloria Belloni
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turnover of 33 million euros achieved in just 10 years. Innovation and new technology are the key features offered by Industrie Testi S.p.A., a company with a number of successful and ‘historic’ brands to its name, including Rebecca. The first house brand was named after the eldest daughter in the Testi family. It is dedicated to jewellery packed with personality and characterised by innovative and rather unusual materials. Rebecca focuses particularly on the world of fashion and its reference points, as well as on communication, investing more than any other jeweller in the main women’s and fashion publications. Its creations Oversize bangle in rhodiumplated bronze and glam film.
are sold in around 1,300 jewellery shops throughout Italy, and also worldwide. Rebecca Testi, daughter of the Group’s Chairman and designer Alessandro Testi , talks to BWDN about plans for the future.
60 COMPLETE BRIDAL SOLUTIONS
BWDN: How is the Rebecca brand positioned today within Industrie Testi? Rebecca Testi: Rebecca continues to be our key brand. Rebecca interprets the tastes and fashions of the modern women, who see jewellery as a fashion accessory.
Which markets will you be focusing on in the near future? Rebecca is currently marketed in over 40 countries worldwide,
London-based company Stubbs presents a range of bridal suites. Director Eran Shem-Tov talks about how his products can help jewellers to their own brand.
62 BEYOND PRECIOUS METALS Rebecca Testi.
What are your highlights at BASELWORLD? The collections we are presenting at BASELWORLD are designed to suit all tastes, but the one thing they have in common is the use of stones, which we try to show off in all their glory: large or small, coloured or white with drops of light, stones are the true stars. All our pieces are strictly made in Italy, at our headquarters in Empoli, near Florence. This represents an important added value, as well as an irrefutable hallmark of quality.
de Grisogono’s Creative Director Fawaz Gruosi has been composing melodies in jewellery for twenty years. In his opinion, creating a piece of jewellery is all about expressing emotions.
through over 2,000 points of sale. The markets we are currently focusing on are China, where we will be opening three single-brand stores, the Caribbean, where we are achieving excellent results, and the Middle East, where we already have two single-brand stores in Dubai and will probably open a third. We have achieved our best results in former Soviet countries such as Armenia, Azerbaijan and Georgia. In Europe, the best performances have been recorded in Greece and Scandinavia, which have produced record figures. We are also planning to open new shops in the UK, where we have
doubled our points of sale over the last year. Last but not least, the Italian market is continuing to record two-figure increases every year, despite the difficult period, so that in the coming months we will be opening single-brand stores in Naples, Salerno and Venice. Does your company have an e-commerce strategy ? We have already started up an e-commerce project, fuelled by the need to raise awareness of our brand, especially amongst young people who tend to buy online and, above all, search for information on the web. 2.2, G35
The cutting-edge men’s collection of Barakà tell stories of adventures as well as everyday life, as Sales Manager Alberto Muraro states in the interview with BWDN.
72 SAFE AND SECURE
When handed over to the customer, valuable jewellery and watches should be packaged in a case that is appropriate.
81 A FABOULOUS MINIATURE ZOO
Gemstones are not only for jewellery – they can also be artistically carved to amazing sculptures.
IN THE SPOT
DEFINED BY ELEGANCE AND GRANDEZZA
Cédé Munsteiner Collection
ICELINK CLASSIC JEWELLERY FROM THE ITALIAN FASHION HOUSE VERSACE SNOW COLLECTION OF ICE FUELLED JEWELLERY by Christel Trimborn
Style
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he meander pattern, inspired by the Ancient Greeks, is one of Versace’s typical and everrecurrent designs. This adornment represented eternity in Antiquity and is now also featured on the watch faces and bezels of men’s and women’s watches and in the latest Greca jewellery range. Designers at this Italian luxury company understand how to bring contemporary Versace Greca.
new interpretations to the motif. With a particular curved shape, the new Greca line presents pendants, earrings, bangles and bands characterised by precious stones such as diamonds, blue sapphires, red
rubies and emeralds. In addition to the Greca, Barocco, Twist and Crocodile Medusa jewellery ranges, elaborately decorated cocktail rings are among this year’s highlights. Genuine Versace fans will love the opulent, elaborately detailed rings which come with additional chain links. Like all Versace items of jewellery, the items are hand-made from 18K gold. 1.1 , E67
The German, Pforzheim-based jewellery manufacture Cédé has been working with the renowned Atelier Tom Munsteiner from Stipshausen near Idar-Oberstein for many years. The gemstone designers create stones exclusively for Cédé. New to the Munsteiner collection are these square rock crystals with a starshaped cut on the reverse, giving the stones a very individual appearance. Background
The jewellery brand Cédé represents creativity and unmistakeable design in gold and platinum. The items of jewellery bear the signature of international designers. Material
18k yellow gold, rock crystal and amethyst. There are also designs featuring numerous natural, untreated gemstones such as aquamarine, tourmaline quartz, morganite etc. Where to spot: 2.1, F01
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NEWS
PRECIOUS AND UNCONVENTIONAL AT GAVELLO, DESIGN IS CONSTANTLY EVOLVING Interview by Gloria Belloni
O NOOR – Noor’s Lady Flamingo celebrates the most beautiful secrets created by Mother Nature – a journey worthy of discovery. Nature satisfies our cravings for rare and beautiful things and new facets and colour interactions in precious gemstones and diamonds can be discovered at Noor. And those who may prefer a more understated natural look can discover a subdued elegance in brown, colourless and black diamonds. (nh) 2.1, A41
ver forty years ago, Rinaldo Gavello and his wife Martha started out on a creative journey, combining beauty and functionality to form jewellery that draws its inspiration from a wide range of highly symbolic themes. The Gavello collections combine universally recognised symbols with sinuous, ergonomic forms, the result of careful design, constant research, the latest technology and skilful craftsmanship. The Milan-based company’s development continues today with Design and Brand Identity Manager Elisabetta Gavello at the helm. She tells BWDN about the new developments for 2013. BWDN: Strong symbols and dark shades: where is the company’s creativity heading? Elisabetta Gavello: Our strongest point has always been the fact that we refuse to conform the rock aspect of my character has always shone through. In fact, it is perhaps
Are your target markets changing? Like all growing businesses, we are looking to the emerging markets, and above all to the East and to South America. These are markets that we believe will understand and appreciate both our design philosophy and our taste.
Anthea collection, pendant with ruby pavé setting.
Elisabetta Gavello, Design and Brand Identity Manager.
our most frequently recurring stylistic feature. Life is our inspiration, and we create jewellery to wear forever, items that become an integral part of our personality. What new products for 2013 are you presenting here at BASELWORLD? Lots of colour and large, luscious stones. We aim to offer people the pleasure of wearing pieces of jewellery that appear unique, but are in fact accessible and highly recognisable. We are reinventing past tradi-
FABERGÉ – Contemporary master jeweller, introduces the Viera Collection of cocktail rings, inspired by spectacular, precious coloured gemstones, artfully encased in exquisite mounts of white diamonds in a variety of regal designs. The collection is inspired by a buried Fabergé treasure, recovered in 1990. Set with for example exceptional emeralds, rubies, aquamarines, spinels, fire opals, padparadscha sapphires, the Viera Rings celebrate the unique beauty of precious coloured gemstones. (nh) 1.1, A13
Rings in white gold with, diamonds and sapphires. The Davite & Delucchi stand.
CAÏ JEWELS – For fashion-conscious individualists: this year, once again, caï jewels demonstrates its nose for fashion with a new collection of silver jewellery. In keeping with this year’s trend colour emerald green the Pforzheim-based German label offers expressive rings, earrings and necklaces in sterling silver, which bring radiance to the deep green colour. (cete) 2.0, F71
PURE FEMININITY DAVITE & DELUCCHI FOCUS ON THE LATEST TRENDS by Gloria Belloni
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avite & Delucchi is an avantgarde company, producing jewellery that stands out for its detailed design and high manufacturing quality. Its latest collections of fashion jewellery are packed with colour. This company signs its collections DD Gioielli, an expression of
From the early 1970s through to the present day, Gavello has always been a family affair. What are the main challenges you face today? The challenge is to never relent in the creative process, since it is our design which truly sets us apart. We have always combined innovation and sophistication, with a particular focus on quality and style.
its exclusive Italian production and unique craftsmanship. It has opted for a simple style and sober elegance, using innovative solutions in the creation of its pieces. With its philosophy inspired by the very highest production quality, the creative mind of Fausto Delucchi is able to infuse each line with a unique
tions with antique coins mounted in innovative ways. And, finally, it will come as no surprise that there are some pieces with a rock influence: gothic-dark skulls, swords and coats of arms in oxidised silver, the first time this metal has appeared in our collections. Any classic pieces? There is our ergonomic jewellery, such as the Corpo range, where gold plays a leading role, in forms that embrace and envelop the arms and hands, following their movements. They are an absolute pleasure to wear.
and distinctive design. Davite & Delucchi Gioielli has been operating on the international market for forty years, since the very start of its rise to fame in the jewellery sector. Its precious and sophisticated collections are key to its success. From a production point of view, the brand focuses strongly on offering a wide variety of models, including jewellery set with diamonds, semiprecious stones and coloured stones. It also offers a wide range of wedding rings, designed to complement its two jewellery lines and make this important moment truly unforgettable. Its collections, with their classic but highly fashionable designs, are positioned at the mid-top end of the market.
NEW COLLECTIONS Here at BASELWORLD, Davite & Delucchi is presenting a number of new fashion jewellery collections: a riot of precious and semiprecious stones in many different colours, ranging from the signature shades of deep blue and shades of brown, to encompass all the most fashionable
When it comes to marketing, are you considering new approaches for the future, including the Internet, for example? We have been online for some time, and we believe it to be the quickest and most immediate way to present ourselves to an ever-growing number of people. Having said that, our jewellery needs to be “felt”: it takes on life as soon as it is put on. Gavello jewellery is magical and magic is not yet available in virtual form. If it cannot be touched, it must at the very least be observed up close. 2.2, E10
hues of the day. As always, its items offer good value for money and the various collections are designed to cater to all styles: from classic and timeless looks, to those suited to a younger and more glamorous clientele who love to flaunt their femininity in keeping with the latest trends. Of course, jewellery set with diamonds and precious stones cannot be described as fashion accessories, but pieces like this can be inspired by the latest fashions, successfully encompassing them in creations with contemporary forms and colours. Indeed, Davite & Delucchi believes this to be essential and has actively chosen to market its products through major communication campaigns in all the main fashion and contemporary lifestyle magazines, endorsed by stars from the world of film and show business. This Valenza-based company has been operating on the European market for some time and is now consolidating its exports to the Russian market and the Far East, two areas where its creations are widely appreciated and arousing particular interest. During these difficult times, Davite & Delucchi’s main strategic investment, in addition to expansion abroad, is to preserve its current position while strengthening its partnerships with clients. 2.2, C01
Jaipur Link Collection,
52 JEWELLERY WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
THE BEWITCHING MELODY GOES ON
Earrings in white gold, set with cabochon-cut amethysts, colourless diamonds, emeralds, periddots, rubies, pink sapphires and amethysts.
CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF DE GRISOGONO, FAWAZ GRUOSI SERENADES BASELWORLD WITH COLOURS by Nina Hald
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he creations of de Grisogono springs from founder and Creative Director Fawaz Gruosi’s mind, as odes to love, beauty and to the splendour of the seasons, summoning the preciousness of nature and the emotions. Fawaz Gruosi brings his new jewellery collection to life in the language he knows best: the language of radiant colourful gemstones. For twenty years, Fawaz Gruosi has been composing melodies in jewellery; music that he has been singing to women across the world, like a magic song. The choice of gemstones is where it all begins. Each gem is chosen for its individual beauty – its colour, light and intensity – regardless of its price or prestige. It is not only the combination of gemstones that delights and surprises, but also the mix of colours. Because even though Fawaz Gruosi may love to work with matching monochromes, he also
adores breaking all the traditional colour codes by mixing colours such as greens, reds and blues, yellows and greens, browns and aquamarines. This year seems dedicated to a majestic purple, a regal blue and the succulent turquoise. In Fawaz Gruosi’s opinion high jewellery is more than creating a jewellery piece; it is about transmitting a feeling, making a woman dream while draped in a high jewelry necklace, ring bracelet or earrings. “It is all about that iridescent reverie of a perfect moment shared between a woman and jewellery creation,” as Fawaz Gruosi says to the BASELWORLD Daily News. And his views are clear: “The most important thing for a jewellery brand on the luxury market today is to keep re-inventing itself – and to compliment a woman’s true beauty, never stealing it. Because after all, beauty – of all kinds of gemstones – is best reflected in women,” Fawaz Gruosi finishes. 1.1, D39
3 QUESTIONS, 3 ANSWERS
TALENT AND A BIT OF GOOD LUCK
Pink gold ring with 204 diamonds (2.3 carats).
Ring in white gold, set with a cabochon-cut amethyst, colourless diamonds, emeralds, peridots, pink sapphires and amethysts.
PIPPO PEREZ AND THE POWER OF A WINNING STRATEGY Interview by Gloria Belloni Conrad Langaard Senior, Juvelér Langaard (Norway) – founder of the company and gemmologist.
“I am happy to see the rejuvenation of the fair.” What is your impression of BASELWORLD?
“I have considered BASELWORLD to be the most important fair for me since 1983, when I started coming, and I am happy to see the rejuvenation of the fair.” What would you recommend to other visitors?
“Hard work; that is what a fair is all about – and it demands that you are able to make the tough economic decisions fast.” What are you especially looking for?
“I am always looking for new trends, materials, combinations of gemstones and the cut of the stones, and for general inspiration, knowledge and networking.”
T
he key figures in what initially appeared to be a wellplanned venture, are now a highly successful team that comprises the jewellery creator, Pippo Perez, an established descendent of a family of jewellers dating back to the 15th century, Maurizio Marchi, Commercial Director, with many years of experience working with major brands and Michele Capalbo, Financial Director with extensive experience. Maurizio Marchi discusses the main stages in this journey with BWDN and presents the new products on display at BASELWORLD.
sage, earning the right for a place in the world of jewellery for an unusual and easy-to-wear bracelet, the famous Brazilian scooby-doo bracelet, reinterpreting it with sophisticated and precious elements. Secondly, we have focused on a close partnership between marketing, financial and design skills. We have a precise target: people with a sense of irony, attracted by the idea of
wearing a top quality piece of jewellery with a “pop” design. We also have strong points in terms of distribution: we work directly with shops, particularly those in prestigious tourist destinations. We are therefore able to reach an international clientele and assess which markets we should enter. Countries in East and South-East Asia currently seem to be the most promising.
Maurizio Marchi, Commercial Director of Pippo Perez.
BWDN: How did the ‘new’ Pippo Perez come about? Maurizio Marchi: I formed Officium S.r.l., a jewellery distribution company, in 2006 with Michele Capalbo. Our first experience with the Pippo Perez jewellery line was so positive that it led to the decision to form a company two years later. What was the winning idea? I would say there has been more than one. In terms of the product and commercial strategy, this initial experiment has sent out a strong mes-
Ladybird in white gold, white diamonds, black diamonds and rubies.
What are the characteristics that identify a piece of Pippo Perez jewellery? Pieces of Pippo Perez jewellery are life and travel companions. The philosophy behind our jewellery is inspired by encounters with different cultures: the collection themes reproduce universal symbols and refer back to traditions packed with meaning and positive values. Ethics and mutual respect guide us in our relations with our partners and also mean that we are strongly committed to charitable initiatives. Tell me about the new products you are presenting at BASELWORLD. The new products we are presenting at BASELWORLD include collections with pieces inspired by Tibet and its spirituality, such as the infinity knot, symbol of the unbroken relationship between giver and receiver, and the fish, which recall the couple. We have also drawn inspiration from the Navajo people, whose traditions include meaningful symbols that can be shared by everyone, whatever their religious beliefs. Precious stones and lots of colour are a real must. Naturally, we will continue to explore distant cultures in the future. 2.1, F20
JEWELLERY 55 WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
Zancan chronograph watches.
Robertino Zancan, Chairman and Founder of Zancan.
IT’S A MAN’S WORLD FROM WATCHES TO THE “TOTAL LOOK”, ZANCAN ALWAYS STANDS OUT FROM THE CROWD Interview by Gloria Belloni
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he investments made over recent years by this Vicenza-based company have produced excellent results. Robertino Zancan, chairman and founder of the company of the same name, tells BWDN about how the company has achieved its targets so quickly. BWDN: You exhibited at BASELWORLD for the first time in 2012. Have the watches you presented there been a success? Robertino Zancan: I would say they have been a huge success, albeit a rather unexpected one. Last year, here in the Mecca of watchmaking, we presented a type of product with strong links to the world of jewellery, almost representing an extension of jewellery for men. This is our most successful line, which acts as a perfect complement to current jewellery collections. As a result, we have been able to position ourselves properly and achieve good results in Switzerland too, where we obvi-
Earrings from LeaderLine’s Keramik Loop collection.
ously face some extremely high competition in the watch sector. This year the collection has been further enhanced by the introduction of high-tech materials such as titanium, combined with gold and diamonds.
The line of men’s accessories also enjoyed a great debut. Are you continuing with this “Total Look” project? Absolutely. Our range of men’s accessories can be customised and embellished with elements in pre-
Men’s rings in titanium with diamonds.
BLACK & WHITE & LIGHT LEADERLINE PRESENTS A FEMININE NEW CERAMICS COLLECTION by Christel Trimborn
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he Blue White Group is based in Milan in northern Italy and offers high quality “made in Italy” jewellery to demanding customers. Elegance, innovation and extreme accuracy are the keywords which characterise the two JJewels Milano and LeaderLine Milano brands. Being a well-estab-
lished brand for more than 30 years, LeaderLine Milano has been working endlessly on experimentation and research for the design and creation of its jewellery. Ceramic is one of the materials used by LeaderLine Milano in various different ranges and always in combination with 18 karat gold and diamonds. Since the
cious materials and diamonds. It begins with classic products such as belts, bags and wallets, going on to include iPad holders, work folders and a range of indispensable objects for the businessman of today. All these items are dedicated to those who love to stand out, even in the small details. In fact, thanks to the inclusion of real jewellery elements, each accessory can be considered a unique piece.
the world, including China and Russia, markets that we have considered to be very interesting for some time, as well as in Northern Europe and Central and South America.
Are your products popular on the international markets? Zancan offers such a wide range of jewellery, watches and accessories that it is able to cater to the most diverse tastes, despite all our creations having one thing in common: the desire not to go unnoticed. Zancan has been something of a pioneer as regards the male target, which is not an easy one. Men have simple but clear-cut requirements when it comes to style, and errors are unpardonable. Zancan creations are appreciated all over
What are you planning to invest in over the coming months? We will certainly continue to focus on expanding the company on an international level, focusing on top-of-the-range products, especially as regards the East. We are well positioned in points of sale dedicated to men’s watches and we intend to grow further. We are also interested in trying out new paths, such as the cruise ship circuit. Ten years ago we were one of the first to believe in the men’s segment, even overcoming a number of obstacles. Now the path seems smoother, thanks in part to our strictly Italian-made quality, which supports and contributes to promoting our creations around the world. 2.1, J80
graphically designed, voluminous ceramic rings have been a successful part of the collection for a few years now, the new Keramik Loop collection is being presented at this year’s BASELWORLD for the first time: ornamentally designed earrings in black and white ceramics – high quality with the addition of an individual rose gold flower and decorated with diamond accents. And an added bonus: the new Keramik Loop earrings are ultra-light and comfortable to wear while the low precious metal content makes them particularly great value. 2.1, L51
Earrings from LeaderLine’s Keramik Loop collection.
56 JEWELLERY WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
maintaining our current positions and continuing to invest in innovation. Once again, the focus for 2013 is ‘innovation’, both as regards our products and our marketing and communication strategies. Our first new products to be presented this year are the Excellence, Reverse, Mix and Origami lines. We have developed targeted projects in the marketing sector, starting with the customisation of shop window displays, participation in advertising campaigns and advertising in trade magazines, with a view to partnering our clients rather than just acting as a supplier. We use our website and social networking channels to keep our clientele constantly upto-date, while a quarterly newsletter provides information about new catalogues, special events and new collections. Giuliano Giannini and his son Filippo.
STRICTLY HAND-MADE PRESERVING A MARKED IDENTITY AND SETTING TRENDS Interview by Annalisa Fontana
K
di Kuore is a company founded in 1996 as a result of the meeting between Giuliano Giannini and a group of fashion and jewellery professionals, with the objective of creating fashionable pieces in original shapes and sizes. BWDN: Describe your path to international success over the last seventeen years. Giuliano Giannini: We focused heavily on taking part in the most important events and shows: Basel, Hong Kong, Qatar, Bahrain, Las Vegas, Tokyo and the three shows in Vicenza. This decision proved to be a winning one, because we succeeded in acquiring prestigious clients all over the world. We have always been very selective, orienting ourselves towards the very best retail outlets in each country, seeking a shared vision and culture. We currently work with agents in Italy,
Spain, France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Greece, Portugal, the United States, Japan, Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia. Our participation in Basel 2013 is oriented towards research and the acquisition of new Northern European partners. We
have created four new lines targeted at the Northern European market for this year’s show. Sum up 2012 and tell us about your expectations for 2013. As regards 2012, it was hard work
Why choose a piece of K di Kuore jewellery? Because of its elegance and simplicity. It is this combination of innovation and sophistication that makes our jewellery so recognisable. All our creations are made entirely by hand, making each piece unique. K di Kuore is a contemporary cult, synonymous with glamour and creativity. We make four hundred new pieces of jewellery every year, bearing witness to our dynamic creative and production work. We seek to update our collections constantly, while remaining faithful to our style guide. 2.1, K40
Yellow gold and white diamonds.
Rose gold and white diamond ring from the Excellence collection.
A. GERSTNER PRESENTS WEDDING RINGS IN CLEAR DESIGN by Axel Henselder
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R. DEMEGLIOS’ NEW FLEXIBLE BRACELETS
by Roberto Chilleri
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perfect combination of craftsmanship and innovation are the key to the Domino Matt & Shiny collection. Joints and elastic – hidden inside of jewels – are the result of Roberto Demeglio’s penchant for experimenting with new engineering-type solutions. Pared, balanced forms, Art Deco-inspired, Domino has all the qualities of a precious jewel but with an inner spring that makes each bracelet extremely flexible. In the photo, a polished and satinized ceramic bracelet, both with diamonds mounted in white gold. 2.2, G23
Bracelets from the Domino collection.
HOW’S BUSINESS?
David Shah, CEO of Aspire Designs Ltd.
MADE TO LAST A LIFETIME ugust Gerstner – The wedding ring specialist has brought along numerous new creations to BASELWORLD 2013. As sophisticated as bubbling champagne, natural-coloured brilliant-cut diamonds sparkle on the ladies‘ ring in the latest collection. Surrounded by the flattering hue of the pink gold, these special diamonds are a refined
JUST PURE ELEGANCE
detail, without dominating too strongly. The effect of these rings is sophisticated and subtle. The quiet and clear design underscores this further, whilst also ensuring a high degree of wearing comfort. The harmonious interaction of material and colour makes this collection a real eye catcher. Ideal (not only) for women in search of the unusual. 2.1, K50
Rose gold and white diamond ring.
“Aspire Designs is a design house whose flagship brand is MVee, our highend fashion brand. We come here with European styling and great craftsmanship. We’ve also launched a new brand which is called Sawel, which is making its soft launch debut at BASELWORLD 2013. We’ve been getting positive comments about this collection.”
58 JEWELLERY WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
THE GENTLEMAN JEWELLER THE EXPERTISE AND SAVOIR-FAIRE OF THE MAN BEHIND ZYDO Interview by Roberto Chilleri
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avid Zybert, a jeweller to the bone, inherited his father’s knowledge of precious stones, and in 1972 he founded his own company, initially for trading diamonds and pearls. Then he began designing jewellery and his true talent was revealed. BWDN: You grew up in the world of diamond traders, where relationships are based mainly on trust. How did this influence you? David Zybert: My father taught me that it was important to be professional and although his eyesight was not perfect he could assess a diamond with his naked eye like few others in the world.
Susanne Asbeck, owner of Nomades.
TOUCHED BY THE STONE NOMADES PRESENTS JEWELLERY FOR GLOBETROTTERS by Axel Henselder
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y jewellery is designed for women that travel a lot, who like to draw inspiration from foreign countries,” says Susanne Asbeck, the proprietor of Nomades, and continues: “Self-assured women such as these have seen a lot. I want to surprise them with my jewellery.” She achieves this with her statement pieces. Her designs are refreshingly different, powerful, solid and yet not flashy. “Well-travelled women such as these are confident and dynamic, just as I am. Delicate jewellery simply wouldn’t suit such energetic personalities,” says the German, Bonn-based jewellery designer. The focal point of her designs are often large, distinctive gemstones. Susanne Asbeck: “When
I select stones I only take those that touch my heart.“ Inspired by the beauty of the stones, she then develops her jewellery ideas. In the realisation of her projects she collaborates with experts from Germany and Italy. “I always approach the designs from the perspective of the jewellery wearer,” says the law graduate, who left a successful career as a manager to follow her love of beautiful jewellery. The pieces should offer a high degree of wearing comfort and also be uncomplicated travelling companions. The jewellery can be worn on every occasion, with every outfit. What is important is that it matches the wearer‘s personality. “I often confront my team with major challenges because I don’t approach things with an eye to technical fea-
sibility, but with my visions,” says the designer. Together with her master goldsmith she then always finds a convincing solution. Nomades also offers exciting diamond jewellery. As far as diamonds are concerned she does not go for pure white qualities, as she finds “the mysterious dark shimmer of the stones much more attractive.” When setting the stones she avoids the standard pavé, instead turning to old techniques of the 20th century. The light is reflected almost mystically, the surface acquires a structure instead of appearing synthetically smooth. Each piece is unique. Taken together, the result is a collection that is as colourful and diverse as many breathtaking places on earth. Ideal for the far-travelled individual. 2.1, M91
When you traded stones in Italy there was a high demand. Why the change? Actually, when I made the decision, the situation was not one of the best, but perhaps there’s a simple explanation. Selling stones was no longer enough for me so I opened a workshop where I could try to set them myself. I recruited top-class workers, who are never lacking in Valenza, and we started right away with stunning diamonds and rare gemstones. I was proud of my first results as a jeweller. Do you believe there is a crucial skill for anyone who wants to be a jeweller? Not to be in a hurry. I had to authorize the chief setter to forget the clock, because in jewellery making, haste or even a simple change of touch, can make a negative difference. How long have you been coming to BASELWORLD? More or less since I started making jewellery, so it must be 30 years ...
TIME FOR SUMMER NINA RICCI PRESENTS JARDIN D’ÉTÉ by Christel Trimborn
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ardin d’eté – Summergarden is the name of Nina Riccis current spring/summer 2013 collection. Spirals, flowers and butterflies, adorned with exhuberantlyshaped crystals in fresh and various colours, mingle to form a delicate bouquet in shades of pink and white. As in previous years, the jewellery perfectly complements the Nina Ricci fashion designs. Together they create a collection that combine feminine volumes with modernity and a dash of nonconformity. The Parisian couture house Nina Ricci, founded in 1932, today belongs to the French Groupe
GL. This organization, specialized in creating, manufacturing and distributing jewels, works for the most famous names in the luxury market, for example Nina Ricci, Inès de la Fressange and Kenzo. 2.1, M90
David Zybert, Zydo.
And for us the show has become even more important since we began brand policy. But I have to thank my children for that. Are your two children in the company like two pillars? I actually have three: Jack, who is now 35; Eli, who’s a year younger; and Roberto, who is 30. They studied at Boston University and the GIA, then they asked me if they could join the company. Knowing how difficult our job is, I told them to think carefully but when I saw how keen they were, I welcomed them with open arms. In 2001 they even persuaded me to initiate branding. Today we share responsibilities and Eli lives in the United States, where many years ago we set up Italian Jewellery of America to distribute Zydo products from premises on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 46th Street. I’d say we’re a good team. Your creations are also to be seen on the red carpet. When is a piece of jewellery suitable for an Oscar night? There’s a rule that applies not only when it comes to dressing the stars, but for high jewellery in general: when buying a luxury item, you may forget what you paid, but if there’s a flaw you’ll see it forever and you won’t want to wear your purchase. Something in the jewellery world that no longer exists and that you regret? One thing above all: the widespread expertise of sector professionals. Once there were more people who could appreciate the quality of craftsmanship or recognize a natural stone. 2.2, G45
Hall 1.1, stand D35
60 JEWELLERY WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
NEWS
BRIDES ARE LOOKING FOR EXCELLENCE STUBBS HELPS THE JEWELLER TO BE HIS OWN BRAND Interview by David Brough
customised for retailers with both branding and price. Our offering was very well received at Basel last year so we are extending the range with even more styles. What is special about the design/ layout and location of the Stubbs stand? Our stand is designed to be open and inviting. Another element of our offering is display units personalised with the retailer’s own logo and colour schemes. The display cases in the show are designed to highlight how our range would look in their shops. In a packed calendar of international jewellery trade shows, what makes BASELWORLD so important for Stubbs to attend? It brings us a global audience of premium retailers in a vibrant marketplace of the industry’s best suppliers. STAURINO FRATELLI – When tackling a jewellery world classic like the animalier genre, it is no mean feat to come up with something new and surprising. Yet Italian brand Staurino Fratelli has hit a bullseye with its Creatures of the Abyss collection. Indeed, there are even amazing sea animals as innovative, unbelievably chic accessories. The Jelly Fish ring is part of this collection: rose gold, diamonds, pink sapphires and a splendid Namibian chalcedony. A true style icon that goes beyond the classic ring concept and which we might rightly call an ornament for the hand. (rc) 2.2, G82
Director Eran Shem-Tov in the Stubbs workshop.
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tubbs presents precisionengineered bridal suites. Eran Shem-Tov discusses how London-based Stubbs helps premium retailers reach out to customers. BWDN: What are the new collections that Stubbs is presenting at BASELWORLD? Eran Shem-Tov: We present a range of bridal suites. Each suite matches a handmade solitaire mount with a wedding band and full or half eter-
MORE EMOTIONS FOR THE PEARL YANA NESPER PRESENTS THE “LOOK OF THE MONTH“ IN BASEL by Axel Henselder
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nautical blazer with a stripy shirt and skinny jeans, royal blue loafers, a pair of retro sunglasses and an oversized bag in radiant yellow. The perfect match: a double-row pearl bracelet with white gold clasp and pearl earrings from the Freshwater Classics collection. Under the title Preppy Pearls, Yana Nesper displays nautical classics in the style of the US prepschoolers, highlighted in a sophisticated and sportily glamorous manner with radiant summer yellow. Yana Nesper, exclusive brand from Heinz Nesper of Pforzheim, is set to present a special pearl highlight each month on her relaunched homepage – the “Look of the month”. In keeping with seasonal and topical trends, Yana Nesper appeals to her
target customers directly, presenting ideas on how to wear pearl jewellery in a stylish and modern manner. “We use the trends to style the pearls youthfully and attractively, lending them a modern twist in the process.” The designer knows what her customers like, as she makes pearl jewellery “practically for myself and my friends around the world,” for women that are independent, educated and sophisticated as well as interested in fashion and style. 2.1, M60
nity ring. All the rings are precision-engineered for a seamless flush fit. Using our system, retailers are not just selling an engagement ring. They are offering a complete bridal solution that encourages their customers to return to the store. What is your brand philosophy? The most important brand in any jeweller’s business should be its own. The objective of our design, manufacturing and marketing teams
Yana Nesper at the stand.
is to develop collections that are the finest expression of your brand’s values through innovative design, a passion for quality and reliability of execution. We can support you with elegant bespoke display solutions that promote your brand. Innovative tools like our retailer-branded ConfigureRing application are designed to enrich the shopping experience delivered in your store. ConfigureRing is a ring configuration tool designed for use in-store on a tablet. It is unique in that it is
What are you looking for in Basel this year in terms of products, trends, networking possibilities? We have recently made a major investment in our workshop and would probably be looking for more equipment to support it. What are your expectations for business in 2013 and how can BASELWORLD help Stubbs achieve stronger sales in a changing retail environment? I am expecting to expand our export business significantly. BASELWORLD is the key event of the year. 2.1, M20
Milano - www.utopia-jewels.com
Hall 1.1 - Booth E03
62 JEWELLERY WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
PEARLS TO WEAR EUROPEARLS TO LAUNCH NEW RANGE FOR PREMIUM BRAND YOKO
Interview by David Brough
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he London based company EuroPearls celebrates the 40th anniversary at the BASELWORLD 2013. Chief Executive Michael Hakimian says BASELWORLD is vital for EuroPearls’ development and growth. BWDN: What new collections will EuroPearls and its brands present at BASELWORLD? Michael Hakimian: We will be celebrating our 40th birthday this year and to commemorate this we will be launching an exciting new limited edition range for our premium brand Yoko where we have created exclusive, luxury pearl jewellery incorporating top quality South Sea and Tahitian Pearls. We are hugely excited about unveiling these exquisite pieces at the show. We are also proud to present Yoko Essentials, which offers retailers a core collection of classic, accessible and wearable pearl jewellery at key price points to complement the premium range. What is special about the EuroPearls stand? Our stand is nestled among many of the longstanding Prestige Jewellers at Basel in Hall 2.2. The way the booth is set up allows our clients to
has been for the company’s development and growth. Most importantly, attending this show gives us the opportunity to launch our products to a global audience and to interact with key buyers.
browse through comfortably and view our stunning new collections in our rotating, illuminated cabinets. The stand is divided in such a way that when clients are ready, they can relax in our private rooms and view the ranges on offer away from the crowds.
What does BASELWORLD offer that you may not find anywhere else? It’s not easy to describe the magical quality of Basel. Both for us the exhibitors and for the buyers there is a distinct buzz in the air. It’s an opportunity to showcase your jewellery vision and creations for the most influential buyers. There is also a huge press presence. This is a show where trends are made. At the end of the intense days at the show the BASELWORLD village is a fabulous place to unwind.
What makes BASELWORLD so important for EuroPearls to attend? Euro Pearls travels the globe attending many important jewellery trade shows. However we cannot stress enough how vital BASELWORLD
What will you be looking for in Basel this year in terms of products, trends and networking possibilities? The EuroPearls team always anticipates Basel with great excitement. We are privileged to be in the com-
Michael Hakimian.
EuroPearls earrings.
pany of the finest jewellery manufacturers and gem dealers who congregate at the show to exhibit some of the most exquisite jewellery and gemstones in the world. Over the years we have found the trends to move increasingly towards luxury, and I believe this year more than ever will be geared towards exclusivity, quality and skilled craftsmanship. Our Yoko collection
reflects this shift towards exceptional jewellery and sheer luxury. BASELWORLD is a chance to mingle with some of the most talented and creative jewellers worldwide and just as importantly to meet the crème de la crème of buyers who understand their markets and have a keen eye for outstanding jewellery. What are your expectations for business in 2013 and how can BASELWORLD help EuroPearls achieve stronger sales? Our expectations for business in 2013 are realistic and at the same time optimistic. We are confident that Basel will help us to reach the markets which are the largest consumers of luxury jewellery – Asia, the Middle East, Russia and the US. 2.2, G11
A EuroPearls ring.
JEWELLERY FOR TALES OF ADVENTURE AND EVERYDAY LIFE AN AMERICAN AVIATION LEGEND IS COMMEMORATED BY THE CLIPPER COLLECTION Interview by Annalisa Fontana
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uraro Lorenzo has 35 years of experience in the jewellery sector and currently has over 2500 points of sale in Italy and worldwide. Alberto Muraro is sales director at Barakà, the group‘s leading men’s fine jewellery brand.
Barakà Clipper bracelet in rose gold and PVD steel with diamond clasp.
Barakà Clipper bracelet in yellow gold and PVD steel with black diamonds.
BWDN: So, Mr Muraro, what’s new for Basel this year? Alberto Muraro: We are very committed and enthusiastic, as always. However, this year we are going further than ever before, with a new stand, new display and new products. It is definitely worth the effort. Basel is an international show with an international clientele and we will be attending with new products for our Comete and Barakà brands, which are the natural result of a company project and philosophy that go beyond precious materials.
The inspiration for Barakà Clipper is the helical form of the propeller blade, which becomes the reinterpretation of the historic cardanic movement, enhancing the stylistic features of the jewellery with very high technical and engineering content. In this collection, Barakà establishes itself at the cutting edge of jewellery production. It has created a special limited edition for Basel, made from aluminium like the historic aircraft.
the images and tagline are selfexplanatory. Not images of models with an airbrushed face and a seductive or faraway gaze, but of real, everyday people. Our pieces of jewellery interpret different times in life, the reality of every day.
Do all pieces of Barakà jewellery tell a story? What is this year‘s story? Barakà jewellery is luxurious due to its materials and style, but it also encompasses a story.
Alberto Muraro, Barakà Sales Manager.
Clipper is our latest product. This limited edition was inspired by a seaplane named Pacific Clipper, which went down in history. In fact, this historic plane was ordered not to return to Pearl Harbour, which had just been attacked by the Japanese, and instead completed the
epic feat of flying 11,000 miles over all the continents in radio silence and without an escort. Designed to fly over the sea, it had to travel much of the journey over the deserts and forests of India, Arabia and Africa, before landing in New York on January 6, 1942.
What is the story behind the tagline of the Comete brand “Ma tu cosa stai vivendo” (How’s life treating you?)? It tells lots of stories, the stories of everyone and every day. I believe
What are your medium and longterm plans for development? We are intensifying our focus on foreign markets where we already operate, such as Eastern Europe. We will once again be taking part in Couture in Las Vegas in order to follow developments on the American and Caribbean market. Obviously, this will not detract in any way from our focus from the Italian market, which has always produced excellent results for our jewellery. 2.2, D20
CELEBRATING 10 FABUL US YEARS OF TI SENTO JEWELLERY AT HALL 1.1/A09 www.tisento-milano.com - www.10fabulousyears.com
64 JEWELLERY WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
LUXURY FOR ALL SCHREINER FINE JEWELLERY PRESENTS JEWELLERY IN VIRTUALLY EVERY PRICE CATEGORY Interview by Christel Trimborn
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rabic royal dynasties and Russian entrepreneurs value jewellery that features some of the biggest and rarest gemstones imaginable. But the door is also open to international jewellers wishing to order the more costeffective jewellery ranges from German jewellery brand Schreiner Fine Jewellery.
Götz Mayer, Managing Director of Bruno Mayer.
SOLUTIONS FOR BOTH ENDS OF THE MARKET BRUNO MAYER ALWAYS AIMS FOR SOMETHING SPECIAL
by Axel Henselder
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runo Mayer covers both the entry level prices in silver and the premium gold jewellery field with genuine gemstones. Managing Director Götz Mayer explains to BWDN just what this strategy entails. BWDN: You are present in Basel with two brands. Will you be concentrating exclusively on these in future? Götz Mayer: With Viventy in the silver range and Elaine Firenze in gold we have consistently established two strong brands, which we have been promoting for over 10 years. Bruno Mayer Fine Jewel-
lery will be incorporated into Elaine Firenze in future. Is this a reflection of the polarisation of the market? That‘s correct. Viventy is aimed at buyers who cannot find a suitable appearance in the gold entry levels at the current precious metal price and who are therefore shifting their attention to silver or gold-plated silver as a result. In our Elaine Firenze premium segment in highquality gold alloys, buyers with higher disposable incomes are addressed, who are looking for a fashionable and contemporary collection.
Are these very different target groups? It is not necessarily a contradiction to wear gold for one occasion and favour silver for another. I am thinking of on holiday, for example. Many people go without gold jewellery then for reasons of security. Of course, there are also customers who only wear gold jewellery and who would not contemplate silver. What are the most important new products for 2013? With Elaine Firenze we are once again focusing on coloured gemstone combinations with playful pastel hues. The trend towards pink gold is also continuing. But there are also numerous new pieces in the gold and diamond field. At Viventy we have a new collection in pink gold plating, which has met with a great response. We always aim to offer something special. And our jewellery is excellently crafted and yet still always within the price framework. 2.1, K19
BWDN: What are the defining features of Schreiner Fine Jewellery? Gerhard Schreiner: Our particular strength lies in the field of extravagant diamond jewellery. The design is not typical of the German straightlined style and instead features striking, playful and floral elements. A good example is the La Fleur collection which we presented for the first time at BASELWORLD last year. The range has been significantly expanded this year and now features lots of additional models. Initial indications from the trade show are that La Fleur is very popular with our customers. This year the colourful Copacabana collection is among the showpieces presented by Schreiner Fine Jewelry. What makes this so special? We have created a small collection of romantic floral jewellery items. Bright, naturally coloured sapphire briolettes are organised to create a rainbow-like colour sequences from light lemon yellow to deep lush orange, for example. The items are also very pleasant to wear, despite their size. The necklace is designed to adapt to different neck shapes and the individual flower and leaf elements move with flexibility. We only produce these items to order because the numerous sapphire briolettes needed are difficult to obtain. Something that many jewellers do not realise – in addition to these and numerous other high quality collections, you also offer
Gerhard Schreiner, CEO.
jewellery ranges in the lower price bracket. Which are they? Our starting prices for purchases begin at below 1000 euros. These include delicate gold chains with small diamond butterflies or flowers – beautiful items of jewellery that children can also wear. They then continue with various items of jewellery in the medium price category and upwards from here – there are no limits due to the exclusive nature of the stones used. We do not impose any minimum purchase on our customers. They can order individual items or several items from different collections. What have you experienced in terms of new customers at BASELWORLD over the last few days of the trade show? We have the impression that some of our new customers want encouragement. Most are hugely enthusiastic about the items of jewellery and have respect for the sum associated with them. German jewellers are rather cautious. The biggest growth in new customers has come from the Asian and eastern European areas. 1.1, D05
Elaine Firenze bracelet in 18K gold.
Elaine Firenze 18K gold rings with gemstones and diamonds.
La Fleur Collection from Schreiner Fine Jewellery.
H A L L 1 . 1 S TA N D C - 0 9 W W W. M I K I M O T O . C O M
V oya g e u r Two faces reVersible
any Time any where
Hall 1.1 - stand a63 www.korloffparis.com
JEWELLERY 67
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WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
DRESSY GUYS
FASHION-CONSCIOUS MEN ARE WEARING BOLD COLOURS, FLORAL PATTERNS AND INDIVIDUAL ACCESSORIES by Christel Trimborn
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alvatore Ferragamo has driven the ode to the radiance of colours to its pinnacle: for this spring/summer season he sent his models out onto the catwalk in glowing orange, turquoise, cobalt blue and bold yellow. And not in a leisure look, but a business one. Elegant jackets, slim trousers, laceup shoes and even entire suits with floral patterns – as seen at Bottega Veneta - can be colourful this year. Other classic men’s outfitters such as Hugo Boss and Cinque are also propagating stylish colour combinations for fashion-conscious men. Those wishing to set a few colourful accents with a black or grey suit will find just the thing in the shape of radiantly-coloured premium sports shoes, some in multicoloured design. Colourful accessories such as briefcases, hats, scarves, watches and jewellery can also create
extravagant effects. “More and more men are looking for ways to break out of the uniform appearance. They are discovering ways of expressing their individuality in the small things of fashion,” observes Michael Werner, Editor-in-Chief of the German trade journal TextilWirtschaft.
COLOUR AS THE DETERMINING ELEMENT Of course, the discreet, reserved jewellery pieces for men are still to be found: primarily clean and straight-lined in design, mostly created using white metal, decorated with discreet ornamentation in black materials such as ceramic, leather or onyx. However, a clear trend towards more colour and clever details is evident in men’s jewellery – and in some cases men’s
watches. Cufflinks with coloured gemstones, rings with iridescent pearls, pendants in coloured synthetics or boldly luminescent fire enamel suit both colourful outfits and casual combinations of jeans, sports jacket and shirt. The Pforzheim jewellery manufacture Victor Mayer, for example, is a specialist when it comes to sophisticated cufflinks with coloured enamel. This season the wrists of fashion-conscious men are also colourful. This colour comes in the form of bracelets with coloured leather or rubber elements and watches characterised by a steel-blue or provocative orangecoloured dial. Even the colour yellow, rarely found in the premium segment, is now to be seen here: Alexander Shorokhoff has equipped his Crazy Hands model with radiant yellow hands.
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1 Boss Green | 2 Guess | 3 Ernst Stein | 4 Sector | 5 Alexander Shorokhoff | 6 Spreckelsen Fine Jewellery | 7 TF Est. 1968 | 8 Victor Mayer | 9 Gellner | 10 Hugo Boss
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HALL 1.2 STAND A53
COVER EXPRESSIONS Co160 Quartino Co152 Aureus Lady Chronograph Chronograph
GREAT STYLE IN TIME The creation of unique and captivating timepieces is the core of our family-owned enterprise. At COVER’s headquarters in the historic town of Solothurn, all COVER watches are passionately being manufactured by hand, for Swiss Made quality that can be felt and seen at first glance. COVER has successfully established itself in over 50 countries worldwide; it truly is a convincing international brand.
SWISS MADE WWW.DISCOVERCOVER.COM
www.stefanhafner.com
Cigni Collection
Baselworld halle 1.1 - booth D01
The Watch for Presidents. 50S PRESIDENTS’ WATCH AUTOMATIC Lyndon B. Johnson and his presidential Vulcain. 5N 18K pink gold, Cricket mechanical alarm proprietary Vulcain V-21 calibre, equipped with the Exactomatic system. www.vulcain-watches.com
Visit us at our Booth A71 in Hall 1.1 at the Baselworld Manufacture des Montres Vulcain S.A. - Chemin des Tourelles 4 - 2400 Le Locle - Switzerland - Tél. +41 (0)32 930 80 10 - Fax +41 (0)32 930 80 19 - info@vulcain-watches.ch
INNOVATIONS 71 WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
TECHNICAL TRENDS DRAW VISITORS INTO HALL 4 EXHIBITORS PLEASED WITH PREMIUM CONTACTS, 3D PRINTING MEETS WITH GREAT INTEREST by Markus Strehlitz
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or many of the exhibitors offering technical products for the jewellery and watch industry, the move to Hall 4 has paid off. “I wouldn’t want to move from here,” says Nick English, Co-CEO of Asic (4.U, B39). “Hall 4 has just the right size,” says English, “we had considerably more visitors on our stand than last year.” These also included the five most important suppliers of the company. Marek Birkenstock, Managing Partner of the eponymous mail order trader (4.U, C30), is also pleased with the high frequency of visitors to his stand: “People are bursting in all the time.” There have been many enquiries for the products that he has on display, Birkenstock continues. The balance so far is therefore thoroughly positive for the company. Michael Knight of Castaldo (4.U, B40) has a similar story to tell. “The interest of the visitors was very significant from day one,” says the President of Castaldo. Celine Allemand, responsible for marketing and sales at Allemand Frères (4.U, E35), also had good figures to report. Even more important is the quality of the contacts, however. “People haven’t just been looking around at our stand,” says Allemand, “they were specifically interested in the products and came with the real intention to buy.” Bill Dahl, Vice President Marketing & Communications at Solid-
by Markus Strehlitz
The winner of the Award for 3D wax printing.
Visitors who are interested in technology come from all over the world to Hall 4.
scape (4.U, C13), had made a whole series of high-quality contacts. “The BASELWORLD has been very successful for us so far,” says Dahl. The company is benefiting from the fact that it has one of the major current technological trends on display on its stand: 3D printing. “This technology is the next big requirement
for the jewellery industry,” says Dahl. In keeping with the product, Solidscape has announced the winner of its design competition for 3D wax printing at BASELWORLD. The Platinum Grand Award was won by a spectacular gold and diamond tiger head seamlessly, mould-
ing into an organic ring, designed by the OG-Art Studio team from Poland. Winning the Gold Award is Dinant Alain, D-F-S of Lyon, France with a spectacular interpretation of the Nimes Coliseum crafted in gold. On the stand of DWS (4.U, D20) it is also evident that 3D printing is a theme that is gathering pace. “We
have had a lot of enquiries about this,” says Enrico Bulian, Sales Manager at DWS. “You can see that there is a lot of reporting on this technology,” adds Bulian. “As a consequence, more and more show visitors are making their way to us and want to find out what opportunities this technology offers them.” Potential customers come from all around the world. “For example, from France, Russia, India or Brazil,” reports Bulian. An international audience is also to be found at other exhibitors, such as Roxer (4.U, E41). The focus of interest here is the new hand fitting machine, explains Cyril Morales, responsible for marketing at Roxer. The new SwissNano range of machines (4.U, B12) in particular is drawing in the visitors at CNC specialists Tornos. “Visitors are coming from all around the world, with the Asian area particularly well represented,” says Carlos Almeida, Sales Manager Switzerland at Tornos.
SIMPLE WATCH TESTING
FLEXIBILITY REQUESTED
TIMEGRAPHER FROM GREINER
by Pia Grund-Ludwig
NEW MATERIALS FOR JEWELRY MOULDS
by Markus Strehlitz
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reiner Vibrograf is presenting its watch testing device, the Chrono Touch, at BASELWORLD. The device has been designed for mechanical watches. It offers all the key functions of a timegrapher, says CEO Michael Kläfiger. These include automatic detection of the beat number. All of the relevant watch values are displayed: rate, amplitude and beat error. The measurement duration and lift angle are freely selectable. The data is presented on a high resolution touch-screen. “This means that the device is very easy to operate,” says Kläfiger. The
Moulds for wax casting.
M Chrono Touch: all relevant watch values are displayed.
price represents a particular advantage. The Chrono Touch costs 2270 Swiss francs, including a microphone. “Other devices with the same functions are more expensive,” says Kläfiger.
The USB interface can be used to transfer data to a PC. The values can then be printed out along with the company, customer and watch description details. The device also has a network connection. 4.U, F26
odels for casting items of jewellery are sometimes compiled using rapid prototyping processes. A tried-andtrusted approach to reproducing these models is the production of silicone moulds. Michael Knight of Castaldo has brought a range of improved materials to the show which have been optimised to meet a range of requirements. They can either be cast in fluid form or placed over the object in question in the
form of a sheet. Heat is then added. Different materials are suited to different production objects. The silicone material Castaldo Superstretch can be used for small, twisted forms. It is particularly easy to remove from cavities and stretches up to 900 percent. Castaldo Liquifast enables a faster process. Models produced using this material do not need to be left to dry overnight and instead are ready after just 30 minutes. One of the problems of forms made from cheap rubber is that it loses its shape after a time and becomes soft. Liquifast Longlife prevents this from happening. The forms produced with this material retain their shape for decades, according to head of the company Michael Knight. 4.U, B40
72 INNOVATIONS WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
VALUEABLE GOODS FIND A SUITABLE SURROUNDING CUSTOMERS BUYING VALUABLE WATCHES AND JEWELLERY WISH TO RECEIVE A CASE THAT IS APPROPRIATE. COMPANIES IN HALL 2.0 AND HALL 4.1 OFFER A WIDE RANGE OF COLOURS AND MATERIALS, FROM CLASSIC BLACK AND WHITE TO CURRENT SPRING COLOURS SUCH AS LEMON AND PINK. ALSO ON SHOW ARE DISPLAYS FOR THE OPTIMAL PRESENTATION IN THE SHOP WINDOW. by Pia Grund-Ludwig
Gainerie91 from France: premium packaging and presentation solutions are on display. 2.0, J50
Ch. Dahlinger is characterised by an annual motif, this year discreet butterflies in pink and silver. 2.0, K70
Bornemann offers a complete range of products for packaging. 2.0, K34
French company Dardel can look back on a 100-year history and works for companies in the luxury segment of the jewellery sector. The new trend colour for boxes is champ, as in champagne, the interior is brown. 2.0, K36
“We adapt flexibly to the requirements of our customers,” says James Law, Managing Director at Firmstock of Hong Kong. He points to carefully-worked, wooden boxes for the storage and presentation of jewellery. His customers are currently primarily looking for natural colours and white. 4.1, S16 Ara Arakelian, Sales & Marketing Manager at the Lebanese company Arakelian: “Here in Basel we find companies who appreciate quality,” he says. 2.0, K34
PHOTOS FOR WEB SHOPS
THE RIGHT LIGHT
ONLINE PRESENTATIONS
HIGHEND CUSTOMERS
by Markus Strehlitz
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nline sales are becoming increasingly important in the jewellery and watch business. Presenting these products appropriately requires special technique. Bullnheimer is therefore including the Mode 360 in its range. This photo studio can be used to photograph a product from various different angles. This enables online
by Pia Grund-Ludwig
Easy to use: Mode 360.
retailers to devise presentations with a 360 degree animation for their web shop. The software comes with the product and enables the user to control both the camera and the entire device. 4U, B23
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isplaying precious gemstones in the right light is complex. Dialumen has developed solutions for this that are already in use on many of the stands at BASELWORLD. Hublot has them at its stand, as do Jacob & Co., Patek Philippe and de Grisogono. The principle is as follows: LEDs which emit cold and warm
Italian company To be Packing emphasises the fact that its products are made exclusively in Italy. “We are able to provide the fast supply of products, tailored to customer requirements,” says Stefano Agazzi of To be Packing. A complete service is offered. 2.0, J38
light, alternately. Dialumen has optimised the wavelength so that the light makes the diamonds sparkle. This recreates daylight. The second development is that the LEDs move at random. This makes the sheen of the stones look very natural, as it would when worn or catching the sunlight. The concept was premiered at the 2010 BASELWORLD, since then Dialumen has worked on its refinement and, in particular, its design. “Companies like Zenith and others have asked us to develop solutions to match their design concept,” reports Cyril Pilet, Vice
Sodem is showing the new Couture collection, made from paper and select textiles. On offer is the complete range of carrying bags, gift bags or boxes for necklaces and bracelets. “We supply tailored suits for the packaging,” says Managing Director Gregor Krampe, describing how he sees the design of contemporary and premium solutions. 2.0, J10
Light system for jewellery presentation.
President of the company. The company has also developed a new moving system. This fits into standard apertures in showcases for halogen lighting, so that no conversion is necessary. 2.2, F43
design ciotolaepartners.it
GEMSTONES 75 WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
DESTINED FOR SUCCESS VENDORS IN HALL 3 HAIL STRONG SALES AT NEW LOCATION
by Deborah Yonick
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espite trepidation from many of the vendors in Hall 3 about their new location at BASELWORLD this year, the end result was very positive in terms of overall foot traffic and sales. Off the beaten paths of Halls 1 and 2, Hall 3 was a true destination for serious buyers interested in the fine and unusual in diamonds, gems, pearls, and estate jewellery. From the opening day onwards, the corridors of Hall 3 were bustling. “We didn’t know what to expect coming to Basel this year given the new hall,” says Colombian emerald specialist Joseph Gad from New York (3.1, D39). “But the serious clients who are looking for the best gemstones in the world always show Axel Henn. up. Buyers from around the globe came with chequebooks in hand to see our extensive selection of Colombian emeralds. We saw many an exhibitor at BASELWORLD for of our regular clients, the major jewthe past 30 years, was not initially ellery brands, for happy about the orders of matched changes. But he is pairs, layouts, and glad to report his exceptional investscepticism was ment stones. We proven wrong. “We also met new cliwere busy from 10 ents from South a.m. to 6 p.m. every East Asia who day of the show,” wanted very rare, says Henn, whose untreated (no oil) company is a emeralds. Business fourth-generation was very good. For gem and lapidary us, Basel is the most house with carvAxel Henn important show of ings, objets, and the year!” one-of-a-kind gem Axel Henn, a and enamel jewelprinciplal with the Idar-Oberstein, lery in 18K gold. “All the people we Germany-based Henn (3.1, E27), wanted to see came and we also
“All the people we wanted to see came and we also met a lot of new people who discovered us along the way”
Eden Rachminov.
Maurice Moradof.
met a lot of new people who disCartier and Harry Winston starting covered us along the way. We offer at 100,000 US dollars. “The market a very special, niche product and is strong for unique pieces, the the buyers who come to the upper echelon, a basic D Flawless Basel show are looking diamond is not where for unique offerings and it’s at.” one-of-a-kind items.” Eden RachWhile Maurice minov of RachMoradof of Yafa minov DiaSigned Jewels (3.0, monds 1891, A25) said that trafTel-Aviv, was fic was good and also busy. buyers were buy“We were busy ing. “Overall, the Emerwith scheduled show was very good ald-cut Colomappointments for his.” Moradof bian emerald, throughout the fair,” cites robust interest no oil, totalling 17.82 carats, Rachminov says. “We Joseph Gad & Co. in signed pieces are one of the biggest from makers like companies in the niche Van Cleef & Arpels, of fancy colour dia-
monds and for us BASELWORLD is imperative. Serious buyers from the US, Europe, and the Far East are here — it is truly the centre of the jewellery world.” He cites a huge awareness for fancy colour diamonds as demand continues to escalate for goods from melee to stones above 10 million US dollars noting that dealers who only supplied colourless diamonds are now including fancy colours in their line up. “We’re very optimistic about the future of the business.” Undoubtedly, the quality of the buyers who attend Baselworld is critical to the vendors showing there. This year, vendors note an even higher quality of clients roaming the show floor. “The quality of buyers was already high and this year it was a step higher,” describes Emmanuel Piat of the Paris gem house, Piat. “I am happy to see my investment to be here was well spent.” Piat cites strong prices for gemstones across the board as buyers seek out rare, natural gems for investment purposes. He forecasts that colour stones could surpass colourless diamonds as presenting the best investment opportunities. “Buyers want rare, untreated stones, and that is all we deal in,” he says. “They were especially attracted to unexpected, unusual colours — new shapes and cuts for special designs, such as spessartite garnet, tourmalines, and different colours in sapphire like peach and grey that were not in fashion in the past. People who come to Basel are not looking for bargains, they are looking for quality!”
ROSY BLUE ON DIAMONDS FANCY COLOURS AND CUTS REMAIN IMPORTANT, CONSOLIDATIONS EXPECTED by Deborah Yonick
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osy Blue, one of the world’s foremost diamantaires, is an industry leader and DTC Sightholder with access to a consistent supply of diamonds from major mining groups including DTC, BHP Billiton Diamonds, and Alrosa. Raj Mehta, director of the Antwerp, Belgium-based firm shares his insights about the market. BWDN: What trends are you seeing in the diamond market today? Raj Mehta: In white diamonds, rounds and fancy cuts of 10 carats or less are trending among our serious buyers. However, other sizes below 10 carats are in demand, particularly one to five carats. Fancy shapes that sell well are ovals and pear shapes, because they allow
jewellery designers to create special and unique designs. Fancy colour diamonds are also in demand starting with blues, pinks and yellows— not just for bridal and fashion pieces, but also for investment purposes. What are the challenges facing the diamond business and how is Rosy Blue meeting them? This wholesale industry is not as organised as the mining and retail trade. From finance to sourcing to manufacturing to distribution and marketing, all of these things need to align with each other with regards to supply and demand. As an international group with offices worldwide, we are able to understand challenges and forecast trends well in advance to adjust our strate-
D-VVS1, Type 2A round diamond totalling 25 carats.
Raj Mehta, director of Rosy Blue, holds a pear shape, D-VVS1 Type 2A diamond totalling 15 carats.
gies accordingly. Our long-term views and goals remain the same, and in the short term, we keep making minor adjustments to weather any difficulties.
What are your expectations for the diamond industry moving forward? I expect even more consolidation within the trade. These changes
will definitely reflect the way business is happening. Ultimately, it will be good for the trade as it puts everything in the right perspective. Consolidation usually happens when the industry is too fragmented. It gives the market the chance to readjust. Those who will succeed in the diamond market are those who are creative, innovative and different to their neighbour in the products they sell and how they sell them. 3.0, D23
76 GEMSTONES WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
A POTPOURRI OF PRECIOUS GEMS
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FROM FANCY COLOUR DIAMONDS, TO RUBIES, EMERALDS, TO NATURAL PEARLS, THEY’RE ALL RIGHT HERE! by Gary Roskin
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ll week we have been talking about fancy colour diamonds and we just cannot stop. “Fancy colour diamonds are certainly centre stage right now,” says Leibish Polnauer, President of Leibish & Co.. “There are so many different places to invest your money today. But if a person were to have purchased a 3 to 5 carat Fancy Vivid blue or pink diamond fifteen years ago, today those diamonds would be worth at least
seven times their original value.” “You could buy gold, platinum, stocks, or bonds, but with the exception of impressionist art, nothing can touch fancy colour diamonds.” Polnauer knows that because of limited resources and a growing demand, partly brought on by the fashion industry, fancy colour diamonds will continue to climb in value. “Another reason for fancy colour diamonds to be such a good invest-
ment is that fancy colours are not traded on the Rapaport list,” says Polnauer. “This means that there is more mobility for manufacturing and retail jewellers to help their brand. Jewellers today have a difficult time making a profit, with colourless diamonds being traded by the list, becoming more of a commodity every day.” But with fancy colour, everyone has the opportunity to make a living. “Yellow diamonds
sell very cheap,” says Polnauer. “A five carat colourless H/VS1 is priced at $30,000/ct., where a five carat Fancy Yellow is priced at fifty percent less, at $15,000/ct.”
THE MOST POPULAR COLOUR “In my humble opinion, fancy colour diamonds are so much more unique. My favourite colour is pink. The pink business of course is dependent on Argyle. Argyle pink diamonds sell
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faster than they can be found.” Just yesterday (Tuesday, April 30), Rio Tinto announced that the original open-pit Argyle diamond mine is now opening its underground operation to expand the life of the mine, and of the Argyle pink diamond market. Polnauer hopes so. “You always want to be at the top of the stairs,” says Polnauer. “That way, people look up and go, ‘Ah!’” 3.1, N21
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1 Royal Gem Proud of their pear shapes, here’s a 20.23-carat Fancy Light Yellow, and a 10.02-carat D/VS2.(3.1, N11) 2 Prompt A 50+ carat colourless (D) VVS round brilliant flanked by two fancies, a 10.91-carat Fancy Intense Pink-Orange, and a 5.62-carat Fancy Intense Purplish Pink. (3.1, E43) 3 Shaun Gems Burmese rubies continue to glow – literally! “There’s high demand for these rubies,” says President Shaun Ajodan. “Burmese fluorescence is the strongest compared to all others. In the
evening, it flares up like a vivid red.” A fabulous suite of 3 caraters, all Burmese heat treated certified Pigeon Blood red. (3.1, F13) 4 Leibish & Co./Pinchasi-Cohen Leibish Polnauer, fancy colour diamond expert. 1.01 cts. each, Fancy Blue and Fancy Intense Purplish Pink hearts. A 1.45 cts. princess cut Argyle Fancy Intense Pink. A 1.04 cts. Argyle Fancy Purplish Pink round. A 4.02 cts. Fancy Vivid Yellow round. A 0.24 ct. Fancy Vivid Green-Blue. And a 0.47 ct. Fancy Purplish-Red! (3.1, N21) 5 Antwerp Coloured Gems Rough diamond crystals create exceptionally beautiful necklaces. (3.0, D37)
6 Manak Manak diamond slices in yellow, and colourless, in a variety of sizes. Manufacturing jewellers use slices to make eye-catching earrings, and rings without having to use larger traditional cuts. Manak is also known for rose, Old Mine, and Old European cuts. (3.1, E29) 7 Andrew Cohen An incredibly rare and beautiful strand of natural black pearls, with diamond clasp, from Cartier, early 20th century. From this time frame, natural black pearls of this size and quality most likely came from the west coast of Central America. Available with the matching earrings. (3.0, D01)
8 8 Gellner The Fiji Islands are not normally associated with pearls, but Gellner has contracted with Justin Hunter, the areas pre-eminent grower, to bring the entire production of Fiji South Seas pearls to the jewellery industry. Compared to the Tahitian black, the signature appearance of the Fijis are bolder colours. Because of their rarity and their intense colours, the Fijis are typically twice the price of a comparable Tahitian. (2.1, B12+B31)
save the date
march 27 – april 3, 2014
Multi-Functional Like You !
Visit us at: Hall 1.2/E09
GEMSTONES 81 WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
Flowers are another speciality of Herbert Klein. These are cut from high-quality and gemstones which can be faceted. An unusual use because many suppliers prefer to use material rich in inclusions to make flowers. “Sometimes we are almost laughed at for making flowers from such valuable stones,” says Gabriele Klein. “But we want them to be of the highest quality too.”
Ready to putt the ball into the hole: Golfing Polar bear, made out of rock crystal and onyx by Herbert Klein.
POLISHED STONES AND UNTAMED HORSES
PRECIOUS ANIMALS AUTHENTIC WORKS OF ART MADE FROM GEMSTONES Interview by Christoph Hoffmann
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ost gemstones are facetted or cut into cabochons and are then processed further to create items of jewellery. Some companies at BASELWORLD are demonstrating just what stones can become!
WILD AND SPORTY ANIMALS A first glance in the display window of stone cutter Herbert Klein (3.1, B01) reveals two things: the company has unbelievable skill when it comes to gemstones – and it has a sense of humour. There are proud poodles with their noses held high, monkeys wearing headphones who seem to be absorbed in their music and polar bears on ice skates or playing golf. The passion for detail is almost unbelievable. Flickers of
emotion are evident on the monkey’s face and the bear’s fur genuinely looks soft and fluffy while its expression is light and captivating. The golfing bear’s concentration is written all over his face as he practises putting while the ice-skating bear glides with grace. Stefan Klein, who made the figures and who manages the firm together with his sister Gabriele, explains why he places such great importance on making the animals as realistic as possible from the outset: “I read books about animals, watch films or go to the zoo to get to know the animal in as much detail as possible”. He adds, laughing: “Then it’s time to free the animal from the stone – it’s in there somewhere!” He shows us a crocodile made from nephrite which impressively demon-
strates his precision: each scale, each tooth and even the mouth area is precisely engraved. Even more minimal details, such as wrinkles under the eyes, are reproduced if they are evident in the real animal: “We have to focus on nature and not vice versa,” says Stefan Klein. The production of these sculptures requires an eye for small nuances and the ability to recreate these as well as a certain amount of strength: these objects are sometimes very large and heavy (such as a rhinoceros which weighed 18 kilos in its “unfinished state”) and have to be worked. It is this huge amount of effort invested into each sculpture which enables Stefan Klein to establish a special connection with each individual object.
Lost in music: Relaxed Monkey by Herbert Klein.
Three very large and voluminous gemstones (a rock crystal, citrine and morganite) are presented in the display window of the Henn stone cutters (3.1, E27), all polished to create harmonious, rounded and very organic forms. The three stones invite customers to play with them, rotate them, turn them around and position them in new constellations. “This harmonious interplay was my aim,” says HansJürgen Henn who created the items. “They should not be perceived separately, but rather as a work of art which belongs together and which can be endlessly rearranged.” Alongside the stones in the window are two trophies which demonstrate Hans-Jürgen Henn’s high level of craftsmanship. Spectacularly formed horses’ heads of smoky quartz and rock crystal are enthroned on giant vessels of gold and rock crystal, lending the inclusions a special individual character. There is also a wild dynamic evident within the horses: each tensed muscle has been carefully carved from the material. The sculptures alone make a visit to the stand a truly worthwhile experience, but the jewellery by his son Ingo Henn under the brand of Henn of London is also well worth a look. He combines perfectly cut gemstones with enamel elements to create harmonious sequences of colour and form which lessen the severity of the stones’ geometry.
SPARKLING FURNISHINGS Swiss company New Art (2.1, D01) specialises in ultra-luxurious interior design items made from precious metals and gemstones. Each item is unique, produced exclusively for the customer as part of an elaborate process. The portfolio ranges from small desk objects to animal sculptures, reproductions of architecture and endless astonishing eggs made from rock crystal and gold which play music when opened, offering insight into their exquisite interiors. The aesthetic appearance of these items is characterised by a sophisticated aura as reflected, for example, by an engraved horse sculpture made from rock crystal with diamond eyes and fittings of gold, rubies and emeralds. It is positioned on an obsidian base. Amazingly detailed horses and huge polished stones by Henn.
82 WORLD OF BASEL WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
IT’S ALL ABOUT TIME
A TRUE WATCH FAN
CARLOS FUENTE JR ON HIS PARTNERSHIP WITH HUBLOT
KYBOE! WELCOMES DJ ANTOINE
Interview by Magdalena Malawska
by Magdalena Malawska
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wiss DJ Antoine – internationally known for his hit Welcome To St. Tropez – dropped into the BASELWORLD on Monday. He is a brand ambassador for Kyboe! and a keen watch fan: “I have always worn watches,” he told BWDN. “What I like in particular about Kyboe! is that I can wear a different colour every day.“ The likeable DJ lives in Basel and this is consequently not his first visit to the show: “The new hall complex is really cool! I’m impressed that it was finished in such a short time.“ Four years ago he met the founders of the Dutch lifestyle brand, whose watches he not only wears in private, but also in his music videos.
Artist Eleanor Cardozo with one of her famous sculptures at the Bedat & Co. stand.
Carlos Fuente Jr with his King Power watch and flagship cigar Opus X.
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fter Swizz Beatz, co-owner and music producer of the headphone manufacturer Monster, and the German skier Maria Höfl-Riesch, Hublot presents its next celebrity: Carlos Fuente Jr, President of the prestigious Arturo Fuente Cigar House, spent Sunday afternoon on the stand of the Swiss luxury watch manufacture. To mark the successful partnership the second limited edition version of a cigar box with Hublot watch is to be launched. BWDN: Mr Fuente, what brings you to BASELWORLD? Carlos Fuente Jr: My family and friends at Hublot. It is more than a business relationship between us. CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, Chairmain Jean-Claude Biver, and me share a close friendship.
THE “WOMAN OF CALIBRE” AT BASELWORLD ELEANOR CARDOZO, SCULPTOR AND BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR BEDAT & CO. SAID ABOUT THE TRADE SHOW: “YOU FEEL LUXURIOUS AS SOON AS YOU WALK IN.”
SHAKING THINGS UP AT THE VILLAGE WITH ITS COSY RESTAURANTS AND BARS THE ATMOSPHERE WAS UNIQUE AT THE NIGHT HOT SPOT OF BASELWORLD
MISSION TO SPACE LUMINOX PRESENTS NEW COLLABORATION by William George Shuster
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arry S. Cohen, founder and Co-CEO of Luminox, the original self-powered luminous watch, discussed the brand’s partnership with Space Expeditions Corp. (SXC), a private Dutch firm devoted to making passenger space travel accessible for anyone. The first commercial flights of the SXC Lynx space plane start in 2014. Luminox is the project’s Official Watch and has created a new series of Space models, starting with three launched at BASELWORLD.
What else do you have in common? A lot. For example craftsmanship and the dedication to time: Both of our companies focus on luxury products that are hand-crafted. To me the secret of making a great product is time – which also applies to cigars and of course watches. What is connecting Hublot and Arturo Fuente the most is probably the human warmth and social responsibility behind our luxury brands: We are both involved in charity work. How do you like the trade show? It‘s great. But I haven‘t gotten the chance to see it all. I am happy to be at Hublot – for me it is the ultimate house of power and everybody is so special here.
Basel based DJ Antoine.
The Village is fun – whether for cultivating business contacts over dinner or just raising glasses to a successful day at the show.
Barry S. Cohen.
84 WORLD OF BASEL WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
“IT’S NOT MY LAST TIME HERE” MEET AND GREET WITH MAX CHILTON Interview by Magdalena Malawska
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a very limited supply and that the time pieces are hand-manufactured. The quality is very good and I am really into the design.
BWDN: Max, what links you to the brand? Max Chilton: Mostly attention to detail. I like that Armin Strom has
Which model are you wearing? I am wearing the Racing Regulator. I really like this black watch and it works well for what I do since it helps me stay on time. Also I enjoy having a nice time piece on my
ax Chilton is sitting in the Formula 1 cockpit of F1 team Marussia this year. The young British racing driver visited his sponsor Armin Strom at BASELWORLD.
wrist – it just makes everything easier. Is it your first time in Switzerland? I was actually asking myself this morning: Have I been to Switzerland before? I get to travel so much due to race competitions all over the world and get confused sometimes. But yes, it is definitely my first time here and certainly not my last. I have been to big trade shows before but with its standard of products BASELWORLD is just fascinating.
A TOAST TO MANUEL CARRERA
THE FACE OF ...
TOGETHER WITH GUESTS THE SPANISH JEWELLERY BRAND CARRERA Y CARRERA CELEBRATED ITS FOUNDER
... JET SET WATCHES VISITED FROM SOUTH AFRICA
Max Chilton, British Formula 1 Driver and brand ambassador for Armin Strom.
65TH BIRTHDAY PARTY AT ALFEX THE SWISS BRAND HOSTED A LIVE EXPERIENCE EVENT TO RAISE A GLASS TO ITS ANNIVERSARY
People gather for the toast.
A video projection formed part of the live experience event. Charne Marwick.
NEW BOOKS TUDOR ANTHOLOGY Tudor Anthology is a real encyclopaedia of Tudor watches. The large book with 344 pages analyses all the Tudor production since 1936. Many important topics such as the different marks of various models are shown and explained. Furthermore, the book provides the updated prices of all Tudor watches, both modern and vintage models. Amongst the various Tudors, we can find the Advisor, Chronautic, Herit-
WATCHES INTERNATIONAL VOLUME XIV age, Ranger and many more. The book is also a prestigious work, as it comes in a limited edition of just 1,000 numbered examples signed by the author. Alberto Isnardi, Tudor Anthology, Guido Mondani Editore, 344 pages, 255 x 315 mm, Texts in English and Italian, 438 Swiss francs.
Watches International, Volume XIV showcases the latest watches from around the world, from every major watchmaker. Hundreds of beautiful full-colour photographs show not only the watches’ style and exquisiteness, but also the details of their movements, functions, cases and dials. The text gives an overview of each of the companies’ histories. Watches International has been set-
ting the standard for up-to-date reference guides devoted to luxury timepieces since 2000. This Volume is the latest edition of the comprehensive compendium. Tourbillon
International has published thirteen consecutive volumes of Watches International and is an expert in the field. Tourbillon International, Watches International Volume XIV, Rizzoli, Trade Paperback, 424 pages, 235 x 305 mm, English, ISBN 978-0-8478-4003-8, 35 Swiss francs.
Books are available at the bookshop at BASELWORLD Palace and on www.watchprint.com
86 SERVICE WEDNESDAY, MAY 1.2013
HALL FLOOR PLANS 2013
IMPRINT BASELWORLD Daily News A publication by Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co. KG Managing Director: Dr. Christian Jürgens
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PALACE
Editorial Management: Mathias Menzel, Caroline Schiedt tel. +41 61 699 80 57 dailynews@unitled-verlag.de Editors: Watches: William George Shuster (wgs), Iris Wimmer-Olbort (iwi), Sabine Zwettler (sz) Jewellery: Dr. Roberto Chilleri (rc), Nina Hald (nh), Axel Henselder (ahe), Christel Trimborn (cete) Gemstones: Christoph Hoffmann (ch), Gary Roskin (gr), Deborah Yonick (dy) Markets: Axel Henselder (ahe)
1 GLOBAL BRANDS HALL 1.0 HALL 1.1 HALL 1.2
RELATED BRANCHES HALL 3.0 HALL 3.1 HALL 4.U
INTERNATIONAL BRANDS HALL 2.0 HALL 2.1 HALL 2.2 PALACE
NATIONAL PAVILIONS HALL 4.0 HALL 4.1
Innovations: Pia Grund-Ludwig (pgl), Markus Strehlitz (ms) World of Basel: Magdalena Malawska (mm) Contributors: Pooja Agarwal (pa), Gloria Belloni (gb), Carol Besler (cb), Kyra Brenzinger (kb), David Brough (db), Elizabeth Doerr (ed), Annalisa Fontana (af), Roberta Naas (rn)
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Art Direction: Janina Demiana Roll, Kerstin Vorwalter
UPCOMING DATES FOR BASELWORLD March 27 – April 3, 2014 March 19 – March 26, 2015
Layout: Sandra Fink, Martin Tubbesing, Heike Wahnbaeck, Marlene Wolf Picture editors: Tobias Indermühle, Andre Weinberg Photos: Hannes Magerstaedt, David Matthiessen, Volker Renner, Daniel Stauch, Franz Unterbirker
GENERAL INFORMATION OPENING HOURS Daily: 9 am – 6 pm Last day (Thursday, May 2): 9 am – 4 pm PRICES OF ADMISSION Day ticket Eight-day ticket
CHF 60.– CHF 150.–
CATALOGUE BASELWORLD 2013 The World Watch and Jewellery Show CHF 40.– PRESS CENTRE On the Exhibition Square MEDIA CENTRE On the Exhibition Square Providing all the international daily newspapers and economic journals and also selected fashion and lifestyle magazines, as well as the complete spectrum of publications revolving around the watch and jewellery industry. BASELWORLD SHOP On the Exhibition Square Catalogue Centre, Book Shop, SBB Swiss Federal Railways, Läckerli-Huus RAIL SBB Swiss Federal Railways BASELWORLD Shop, on the Exhibition Square Swiss railway SBB, tel. +41 900 300 300 French railway SNCF, tel. +33 892 35 35 35 German railway DB, tel. +49 1805 99 66 33 AIR TRAVEL SERVICE Swiss International Air Lines Reservation Swiss International Air Lines, tel. +41 848 700 700 Information EuroAirport Basel-MulhouseFreiburg: tel. +41 61 325 31 11 Zurich Airport: tel. +41 900 30 03 13
AIRPORT EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg (10 km from Basel city centre) and Zurich Airport (90 km from Basel city centre). A shuttle bus service is available which takes you directly to the Basel Exhibition Centre from EuroAirport Basel-MulhouseFreiburg (daily from 8.15 am to 7.15 pm) as well as from Zurich Airport (daily from 7.30 am to 7 pm). LOST PROPERTY Hall 2.0 tel. +41 58 206 26 12, fax +41 58 206 20 70 TRAM Tram stop “Messeplatz” Trams no. 2 and 1 to SBB and SNCF railway stations (8 min.) Trams no. 2 and 6 to German railway station “Badischer Bahnhof” (2 min.) BASEL TOURISM Tourist Information/Hotel reservation in the Stadtcasino at Barfüsserplatz, CH-4010 Basel tel. +41 61 268 68 68 fax +41 61 268 68 70 info@basel.com www.basel.com EXHIBITION CUSTOMS OFFICE Hall 2, Foyer tel. +41 58 206 21 22 BANK – CHANGE – SAFE Basler Kantonalbank: Congress Center branch
FREE SHOW GUIDE FOR SMART PHONES Get the free BASELWORLD App for your iPhone, iPad, BlackBerry and other smart phones! It contains an interactive 3D map of the show, visitor information, detailed information on the exhibitors as well as a selection of articles from the current Daily News issue. Free download: baselworld.com/app
GET IN TOUCH WITH BASELWORLD Join us on Facebook or follow our latest news on Twitter or Weibo – and interact with us and other visitors! facebook.com/baselworld twitter.com/baselworld weibo.com/baselworld
BASELWORLD VILLAGE: HIGHLIGHT THE NIGHT Great atmosphere, delicious food, cocktails and live music! WHEN Thursday, April 25, 2013 to Wednesday, May 1, 2013 6 pm to 2 am WHERE Binningerstrasse 14 CH-4051 Basel
RESTAURANTS Osteria Acqua – Italian culinary elixir in a unique setting www.acquabasilea.ch Baracca Zermatt – enjoy Swiss food in a chalet style atmosphere www.baraccazermatt.ch
We will be pleased to accept your table reservations on tel. +41 61 564 66 66
Translation and Proofreading: Ad Rem Sprachdienstleistungen, Amy Brooke, Prisca DeGroat, Howard Fine, Konstanze Plötz, Kenneth Ross Advertising: MCH Swiss Exhibition (Basel) Ltd. BASELWORLD CH-4005 Basel / Switzerland tel. +41 58 206 22 22 exhibitor@baselworld.com Printing: Vogt-Schild Druck AG CH-4552 Derendingen www.vs-druck.ch Publisher’s address: Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co. KG Medienpark Kampnagel Jarrestr. 2 D-22303 Hamburg, Germany tel. +49 40 189 881-0 fax +49 40 189 881-111 info@untitled-verlag.de BASELWORLD Daily News is published by Untitled Verlag und Agentur GmbH & Co. KG. Reprints of articles are obtainable on application to the publisher. All rights reserved. BASELWORLD Daily News may not be reproduced in any manner of form without written permission.
EDITORIAL OFFICE News to share? Contact us! tel. +41 61 699 80 57 dailynews@untitled-verlag.de
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A L A C R I A S WA N With the Alacria Swan, Carl F. Bucherer presents a masterpiece of the feminine Alacria line. The traditional art of the jeweller lends the Alacria Swan spectacular splendour: 348 brilliants in the case, 137 in the dial, 844 in the bracelet and one in the crown – painstakingly set by hand. A sparkling timepiece of beautiful perfection, offering impeccable comfort on the wrist. BOUND TO TRADITION – DRIVEN BY INNOVATION
BASELWORLD 2013 HALL 1.0 – STAND C33
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