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HOME/OUTDOOR
Dining out
mistura
a marvelous melange By Susan Stewart
T
his summer, Chef Nicola Allegretta represented the country of Peru at the prestigious Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Colorado. There, he showcased many of the outstanding dishes he has created for Mistura, a restaurant featuring the unique flavors and diverse dishes of Peru. How did an Italian chef come to represent a South American country as distinctive as Peru? Perhaps it has something to do with his wife, Jackeline Allegretta, who hails from Peru’s lively capital city, Lima. Opened just shy of two years ago at The River Oaks Golf Course in Paso Robles, Mistura
The Bar at Mistura.
is now a destination eatery for adventurous diners looking for a true “experience.” The menu is long and impressive changing to suit the seasons and reflect the creative talents of Nicola, who also co-owns with Jackeline the popular Mama’s Meatball in San Luis Obispo, as well Haute Catering. With influences from around the world, Peruvian cuisine is bold and flavorful, and Mistura’s menu offers a plethora of choices—from delicate ceviches to hearty soups and stews; from bright, colorful salads to fall-off-the-bone lamb shanks, great steaks, and all manner of fresh seafood. There are several housemade pastas such as tender raviolis stuffed with mushrooms or lobster; and organic, free-range chicken dishes braised or shredded and uniquely flavored with Peruvian spices. Sides include fried wedges of Golden Yuca, Peruvian beans, and Andean potatoes. And desserts feature the exotic Pisco liquer, guanabana fruit, and lucuma gelato.
Juan Carlos with the perfect pour.
Marco, Jordan, Nicola and Kevin
A U G U S T
2016
Journal PLUS
Effervescent with enthusiasm, Chef Nicola and his staff of superb servers are glad to suggest the perfect wine for each course from their extensive list. On the evening I ate at Mistura, he also surprised us with the winning dish of the evening: an appetizer made with paiche, a 600-pound fish
The View from Mistura
from the Amazon. For this dish, Nicola paired medallions of barbecued paiche with fried plantains and a zingy cilantro pesto. “We prepare our food in small batches,” said Nicola, “and sometimes we run out. But we are proud to say we are out, because it means that so many people liked it!” For the classic Italian dishes served at Mama’s Meatball, Nicola had to look no further than his mother’s own time-honored recipes. But for the complex cuisine of Peru, he worked with Peru’s best known chefs, and studied the rich and multi-cultural legacy of a cuisine heavily influenced by its PreColumbian and Incan heritage, as well as more modern contributions from Spain, Italy, China, and Japan. Juan Carlos, our waiter, gave us wonderful service, Jim Wilmore provided soothing background music, and the kitchen crew posed happily for a photograph. Nicola was quick to praise them all: Head Chef Marco Sturken, Sous chef Kevin Slane, and Chef Garde Manger Jordan Howard. General Manager, Stephanie Stiles, made sure the evening was a standout, and it was. “The best thing about working with Nicola is his infectious passion for life,” said Stiles, who has worked with the Chef for many years. “You can see it in every dish … in the unrelenting way he strives for excellence … in his relationships with friends and family.” Unfamiliar yet satisfying, unexpected yet delicious, Mistura will surprise you … it’s a marvelous mix.