IFRA UK 2013 Fragrance Forum: Psychology of Fragrance

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2013 Fragrance Forum 17th October 2013

‘Psychology of Fragrance’

Main sponsor

A worl d of inspir a tion

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IFRA Fragrance Forum 2013 Welcome to IFRA United Kingdom’s Fragrance Forum 2013 – The Psychology of Fragrance. This is the third year that we have staged such an event and we have done so to develop a better understanding of the important role of fragrance in our lives. Today we explore how fragrance affects our minds, our moods, our memories and our well-being. Our sense of smell enables fragrances to affect us so directly, so memorably and so fundamentally; and yet there is still so much more to understand about the way that olfaction works and the way in which fragrance technology is applied to the myriad of everyday products we use. Fragrances are important in so many aspects of our lives – whether in fine fragrances, personal care, everyday household products or other market sectors. IFRA UK’s members employ scientific rigour and artistic imagination to develop fragrances that enhance well-being and enjoyment of life, safely and beautifully. Today, our panel of eminent speakers comprising distinguished academics from industry and universities and fascinating experts from the commercial world will explore the psychology of fragrance and how our greater knowledge is leading to yet greater strides in fragrance use and application. We thank our main sponsor, Seven Scent, and all the other sponsors and exhibitors who have helped make this Fragrance Forum possible. We thank our speakers and session chairmen and the Royal Society for allowing us to again hold this event in their splendid premises. Above all, we thank you, the members and friends of IFRA UK, for joining us for this Fragrance Forum. We hope you have a stimulating, enjoyable and informing day as we explore the art and the science of ‘The Psychology of Fragrance’. Warmest regards Lisa Hipgrave, Julie Young and Jo Jacobius IFRA UK

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Programme TIME




Coffee & Registration for Members attending AGM


IFRA UK AGM for Members only


Coffee & Registration for Forum only


Fragrance – the invisible difference Chaired by Lisa Hipgrave, Director, IFRA United Kingdom


Lisa Hipgrave, Director, IFRA United Kingdom

Welcome and introduction


Dr Craig Roberts Senior Lecturer in Psychology, School of Natural Sciences, Stirling University

Body odour in biological perspective


Debbie Brunt Head of Consumer Insight, PZ Cussons

Understanding consumers: Stepping into their shoes




Product development and the battle of the senses Chaired by Stephen Weller, Communications Director, IFRA Global


Dr Anne Churchill Head of Global Sensory at Givaudan Fragrance Division

Holistic sensory approach to product design


Profressor Francis McGlone School of Natural Sciences & Psychology at Liverpool John Moores University and Visiting Professor at the University of Liverpool

The brain knows what the nose knows, but does the mind?


Tea/Coffee break


Synchronisation of sensory signals Chaired by Jonathan Gray, Chairman of IFRA United Kingdom


Professor Charles Spence Head of the Crossmodal Research Laboratory, Department of Experimental Psychology at Oxford University


Peter NoorkĂľiv CEO, Craftwork Marketing


PANEL DISCUSSION With all speakers, chaired by Jonathan Gray



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The Fragrance Forum 2013 Speakers Dr Craig Roberts Senior Lecturer in Psychology, University of Stirling Craig trained as a zoologist at the University of Leeds and University College London, and it was during his PhD research on African antelopes that he became interested in odour communication. He then worked on scent signalling in mice at the Institute of Zoology, London, attempting to use this knowledge to improve captive breeding programmes. In 2000 he began working on the equivalent kinds of biological information contained within human body odour and how people’s perception of this information is influenced by cultural practices such as hormonal contraception and perfumes; these questions continue to be a main focus of his research. He has held positions at the Universities of Newcastle and Liverpool and since 2010 has been Senior Lecturer in Psychology at the University of Stirling. He currently holds a Mid-Career Fellowship from the British Academy.

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Debbie Brunt Head of Consumer Insight, PZ Cussons Deb Brunt has over 14 years of client-side consumer insight experience, spanning across retail (Dixons Stores Group) and latterly FMCG, largely focused in the UK, but also experience of Africa, Asia, USA and Europe. She currently heads up the consumer insight function for PZ Cussons UK, responsible for embedding consumer insight across the organisation and driving front end innovation (identifying future opportunities). Additional responsibilities include carrying out ad hoc research across each of the brands from concept through the product development (fragrance, formulation and packaging), brand equity, communications and in market performance.

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Dr Anne Churchill Head of Global Sensory at Givaudan Fragrance Division Anne Churchill is head of the global sensory analysis team for Givaudan fragrances. She works closely with the fragrance creation, fragrance development, sales and research teams. Her main responsibilities include delivering objective, reliable and insightful measures of perceived fragrance performance from a wide variety of different fragranced products (everything from toilet cleaners to prestige fine fragrances) under different usage and environmental conditions. Her measurement tool is the human nose and the use of this tool requires an understanding of human behaviour, perception and psychology. She has a BSc and PhD from the Food Science Department at Queen Elizabeth College (now part of King’s College), University of London and her experience in sensory science stretches back 30 years. Her research interests include contextual and multisensory influences on product perception and emotional effects of fragrance.

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that recorded both the neuroelectric (EEG) and haemodynamic (fMRI) activity of the brain. This system was initially for use in the diagnosis of epilepsy. He left Unilever R&D in 2009 to return to academia, and is currently Professor in Neuroscience in the School of Natural Sciences and Psychology at Liverpool John Moores University and Director of the Research Centre for Brain & Behaviour. He also holds a Visiting Professorship at Liverpool University and an Eminent Visiting Professorship at the University of Western Sydney.

Professor Francis McGlone School of Natural Sciences & Psychology at Liverpool John Moores University and Visiting Professor at the University of Liverpool Francis McGlone was awarded a BSc in Neurobiology from the University of Sussex, where he also received his PhD for research into sensory processing in the brain evoked during feeding behaviours. At Manchester University he continued this ‘systems neuroscience’ approach, investigating the role of sensory input to the cerebellum, and effects of hypnotic drugs on sensory and cognitive function, employing electrophysiological techniques (EEG).

His primary area of academic research is characterising the role of afferent c-fibres in humans, investigating their role in pain, itch, and more concertedly the functional and affective properties of a novel class of c-fibres - C-tactile afferents – that code for the pleasure of intimate touch. Techniques used in this research span single unit recordings with microneurography, psychophysical measurements, functional neuroimaging, behavioural measures, and psychopharmacological approaches to investigate the role of the bran transmitter serotonin in affiliative and social touch. He is also the Director of a neuro-consulting company – NeuroSci Ltd www.neurosci.co.uk – working with industry to apply cognitive neuroscience principles to product development and use.

He then took up the position of Senior Neuroscientist at the Pain Research Institute, Department of Medicine, at the University of Liverpool, investigating mechanisms of neuropathic pain. He joined Unilever R&D in 1995 where he established a new science base - Cognitive Neuroscience - with the specific objective to understand and apply knowledge of the basic neurobiological and psychological processes underpinning sensation, and the central processes of perception, attention, emotion and action, engaged during grooming, feeding and foraging (shopping) behaviours. As an FMCG company there was a real need for more sensitive tools and evidence-based approaches to better understand the needs, wants and likes of its global customer base – all of us. He introduced a number of new investigative techniques including olfactometry, electrophysiology (EEG & EMG), functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI), quantitative sensory testing (QST), behavioural approaches to study crossmodal attention and multisensory integration, implicit measures and the importance of an evidence-based approach to understanding and predicting human feeding and grooming behaviours. He established academic collaborations with major players in the field of Cognitive Neuroscience and Experimental Psychology at Universities in North America, Canada, Europe and Australia, with a general remit to understand the neurobiological and psychological links between sensation and affect (pleasure). He was pivotal is attracting $8M in Venture Capital funding (Unilever Ventures) to develop a novel neuroimaging system

Peter Noorkõiv CEO, Craftwork Marketing Peter started his career at DMB&D working on Jaguar, Texaco and Nescafe followed by a period client side for Sears Holdings looking after retail, marketing for brands ranging from William Hill to Wallis. Peter then started his own integrated agency and has worked across every business sector including Financial, Automotive, FMCG, Retail, Entertainment, and Beer, Wines and Spirits using multiple disciplines.

Professor Charles Spence Head of the Crossmodal Research Laboratory, Department of Experimental Psychology at Oxford University Charles is interested in how people perceive the world around them. In particular, how our brains manage to process the information from each of our different senses (such as smell, taste, sight, hearing, and touch) to form the extraordinarily rich multisensory experiences that fill our daily lives. His research focuses on how a better understanding of the human mind will lead to the better design of multisensory foods, products, interfaces, and environments in the future. His research calls for a radical new way of examining and understanding the senses that has major implications for the way in which we design everything from household products to mobile phones, and from the food we eat to the places in which we work and live. He is currently working on problems associated with the design of foods that maximally stimulate the senses with a number of the world’s foremost food providers, including both chefs (e.g., Heston Blumenthal, Ferran Adrià) and food companies. His work appears regularly in the international press. Charles has acted as a consultant for a number of multinational companies advising on various aspects of multisensory design, packaging, branding, marketing, and atmospherics over the past decade, including Unilever, Elopack, Takasago, Procter & Gamble, LG Electronics, ICI, McDonalds, Starbucks, Quest, Firmenich, Britvic, Neurosense, Neal’s Yard Dair; Baiersdorf, Starbucks, Mother, JCPR, Thorntons, The Communications Group, Toyota, BMW, and The Fat Duck restaurant. Charles has published over 500 articles in top-flight scientific journals over the last 15 years. He has been awarded the 10th Experimental Psychology Society Prize, the British Psychology Society: Cognitive Section Award, the Paul Bertelson Award, recognizing him as the young European Cognitive Psychologist of the Year, and, most recently, the prestigious Friedrich Wilhelm Bessel Research Award from the Alexander von Humboldt Foundation in Germany.

BSP’s 50th Anniversary Book Launch With a history dating back to the 16th century, the story of the perfume industry in Great Britain is definitely a most fragrant one. British Perfumery – A Fragrant History takes you on a journey from some of the very first fragrance houses and their associations with royalty and famous clients to the great British fragrance houses of today; from the global brands we all know and love to the luxury of niche perfumery, and to the companies that supply the ingredients – without which no fragrance could be created. A Fragrant History also invites you to share in the personal stories and experiences of the many perfumers who, over the years, have made British perfumery as full of creativity and talent as it is today. Learn how they started their careers in fragrance and who inspired them. Understand more about the societies, trade associations, trainers and educators who play a key role in the perfume industry and how British perfumery is looking to the future. The British Society of Perfumers was formed in 1963 to promote the interests of individual perfumers and to improve the status of perfumers by seeking wider recognition of perfumery as a profession. To celebrate its 50th year, the President John Bailey conceived the idea of this book to celebrate British perfumery past and present. This book has been made possible by the remarkable generosity of the contributors and the work of the British Society of Perfumers book team: John Bailey has had an extensive career in the British perfume industry and is current President of the British Society of Perfumers (2012, 2013) and an artisan perfumer. Helen Hill has worked in the personal care industry for over 25 years and with fragrance ingredients for 16 years. She is a Past President of the British Society of Perfumers (2010). Yvonne Hockey has over 25 years’ experience in the fragrance industry and is a Member of the British Society of Perfumers Council. Matthew Williams has worked with fragrance ingredients for the last 13 years and is a Past President of the British Society of Perfumers (2009).

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Session Chairmen

Lisa Hipgrave, IFRA United Kingdom Director Stephen Weller, Communications Director, IFRA Global An experienced communications professional, Stephen has a degree in Public Relations and has worked for the agriculture sector, the crop protection and biotechnology industries as well as an international policy think tank and the European aluminium industry. Stephen has extensive experience at both EU and global levels in internal and external communications for trade associations.

Lisa Hipgrave was appointed Director of the British Fragrance Association (now IFRA United Kingdom) in 2006. She first joined the industry in 1984 and, after two years of working within the various laboratories, her dream was realized when she began training as a perfumer. In 1989 she joined an international fragrance company as a perfumer and remained at that company in various roles until leaving in 2005. Lisa Hipgrave is also a Past President of the British Society of Perfumers.

His role at IFRA involves working closely with all the members and their national and regional associations and positioning IFRA with key international institutions and stakeholders. As well as promoting the high safety and quality standards set by IFRA and adhered to by its members, Stephen also promotes the benefits of fragrance to people’s wellbeing and quality of life.

Save the Date! IFRA UK Information Day for Members 30th January 2014 London Jonathan Gray, Chairman of IFRA United Kingdom

Joint BSP/IFRA UK Seminar

Jonathan Gray has over 25 years’ experience in the fragrance & flavour industry, with 18 of these spent at Mane where he is Managing Director of Mane UK.

‘Fragrance regulations for non-regulatory professionals’

His first degree was from Queen Elizabeth College, University of London in Food Science & Physiology. He also holds a PGCE from Leicester University and a Certificate in Business Administration from Warwick Business School.

Cost: Members £50 / Non-Members £75

Jonathan taught outdoor pursuits and Biology before moving into sales. After a role in flavour sales at PFW, he moved to work in fragrance at Harmann & Reimer, joining Mane in 1994.

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Fragrance Forum 2013 Exhibitor IFRA UK would like to thank the exhibitor at the 2013 Fragrance Forum. Please visit during the breaks to discover more.

ICATS (International Centre for Aroma Trades Studies) has been providing distance learning to the Aroma Trades Industry on a global basis for over 25 years. The Diploma syllabus was developed in consultation with the Education Committee of IFEAT (International Federation of Essential Oils and Aroma Trades) covering both technical and business aspects. Material has been written by leading industry practitioners such as John Ayres (Past President British Society of Perfumes), Brian Lawrence (essential oils) and John Wright (flavours). The programme provides total flexibility, participants can elect to take the full IFEAT Diploma or just study individual modules. Website www.icatsaromaeducation.com Email aroma@plym.ac.uk Telephone 01752 518034

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IFRA Fragrance Forum 2013 would like to thank our sponsors Headline sponsor

Provider of the luncheon wine

Video Sponsor

CPL Aromas Providers of the gift bags and content:

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IFRA UK would like to thank Natalie Pini at CPL Aromas for the design of this brochure.

2013 Fragrance Forum 17th October 2013


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