IFRA UK 2014 Fragrance Forum: Fragrance Matters

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2014 Fragrance Forum 16th October 2014

‘Fragrance Matters’

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IFRA Fragrance Forum 2014 Welcome to IFRA United Kingdom’s Fragrance Forum 2014. This is the fourth year that we have staged such an event and we are proud that the occasion has become a keenly anticipated fixture each year. IFRA UK first launched an annual Forum to develop a better understanding of the important role fragrance has in our lives. Today we take as our theme ‘Fragrance Matters’ which is our cue to explore our sense of smell in its widest sense. We consider why fragrance matters and why an inability to smell can make life so difficult. Fragrances are important in so many aspects of life for most people – in fine fragrances, personal care, everyday household products or other market sectors. IFRA UK’s members develop fragrances that enhance well-being and the enjoyment of life. This year, as in previous years, we have invited a number of eminent speakers comprising some of the most distinguished academics working in the UK as well as fascinating experts from the commercial and voluntary sectors covering an eclectic mix of topics. In our symposium today, we look at what happens to those with limited or no sense of smell and how smell might be used in police forensics; we consider scent and technology; we hear from one of the world’s most famous perfumers; and our speakers from academia ask, and examine, such questions as ‘do you smell what I smell?’ and ‘what is the role of pheromones in animal behaviour?’. The event would not be possible without our supporters. We thank our Gold Sponsors, CPL Aromas and MANE, our Silver sponsors, Robertet and Symrise, and Bronze sponsor EFF plus all the other partners and exhibitors who have helped make this Fragrance Forum possible. We thank our speakers and session chairmen and The Royal Society for allowing us to again hold this event in their splendid premises. Above all, we thank you, the members and friends of IFRA UK, for joining us for the 2014 Fragrance Forum. We hope you have a fascinating and fragrant day. IFRA United Kingdom Secretariat.


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Programme TIME



Coffee & Registration for Members attending AGM


IFRA UK AGM for Members only

10.00 - 10.45

Coffee & Registration for Forum only

Session One

Chaired by Jonathan Gray, Chairman of IFRA United Kingdom


Jonathan Gray, Chairman of IFRA United Kingdom

Welcome and introduction


Duncan Boak, Founder and Director of Fifth Sense

Smell and Emotion - the reality behind fragrance marketing


Dr. Darren Logan, Wellcome Trust Sanger Institute

Do you smell what I smell?


LUNCHEON in the Dining Room downstairs

Session Two

Chaired by Stephen Weller, Director of Communications, IFRA


Dr. Tristram Wyatt, Department of Zoology, University of Oxford

Human pheromones – we need to talk


Alison Davidson, Department of Forensic and Crime Science within the School of Sciences at Staffordshire University

Sniffing out the evidence fragrance and forensics



Session Three

Chaired by Lisa Hipgrave, Director of IFRA United Kingdom


Emmanuelle Moeglin, Global Fragrance & Personal Care Analyst, Mintel

Scent and technology – Innovation and the Fragrance Experience


Christophe Laudamiel, Osmotheque and Academy of Perfumery

Osmotheque and Academy of Perfumery


PANEL DISCUSSION With all speakers, chaired by Lisa Hipgrave




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Session Chairs Jonathan Gray, Chairman of IFRA UK Jonathan has over 25 years’ experience in the fragrance and flavour industry, with 18 of these spent at Mane where he is Managing Director of Mane UK. His first degree was from Queen Elizabeth College, University of London in Food Science & Physiology. He also holds a PGCE from Leicester University and a Certificate in Business Administration from Warwick Business School. Jonathan taught outdoor pursuits and Biology before moving into sales. After a role in flavour sales at PFW, he moved to work in fragrance at Harmann & Reimer, joining Mane in 1994.

Stephen Weller, Communications Director, IFRA Global An experienced communications professional, Stephen has a degree in Public Relations and has worked for the agriculture sector, the crop protection and biotechnology industries as well as an international policy think tank and the European aluminium industry. Stephen has extensive experience at both EU and global levels in internal and external communications for trade associations. His role at IFRA involves working closely with all the members and their national and regional associations and positioning IFRA with key international institutions and stakeholders. As well as promoting the high safety and quality standards set by IFRA and adhered to by its members, Stephen also promotes the benefits of fragrance to people’s wellbeing and quality of life.

Lisa Hipgrave, IFRA UK Director Lisa was appointed Director of the then British Fragrance Association (now IFRA UK) in 2006. She first joined the industry in 1984 and, after two years of working with the various laboratories, her dream was realized when she began training as a perfumer. In 1989 she joined an international fragrance company as a perfumer and remained in various roles until leaving in 2005. Lisa is also a Past President of the British Society of Perfumers.

Speakers Duncan Boak is founder of Fifth Sense, an anosmia charity he established having lost his sense of smell due to a head injury.

In addition to running Fifth Sense, he this year started working with a team in the Medical Faculty within Imperial College London which conducts research into creating simulated clinical environments, involving a very diverse range of people - for example, people from the TV and film industries alongside clinicians.

Dr Darren Logan graduated from the University of Bath with a Master’s

degree in Biochemistry before moving to the MRC Human Genetics Unit in Edinburgh. There he joined Professor Ian Jackson’s lab to undertake a PhD studying the evolution and function of genes that control pigmentation. Having explored the molecular mechanisms through which some species instinctively change colour to facilitate camouflage, Darren next wanted to understand how mammals communicate via smell to initiate more complex social behaviours. He moved to The Scripps Research Institute in La Jolla, USA to join Lisa Stowers’ group, where he was awarded a Skaggs Fellowship to investigate olfactory-mediated behaviour, in particular olfactory cues that promote suckling in newborns and characterization of a novel family of protein pheromones. These were the first published example of genetically-encoded signals that initiate a range of innate behaviours in mice, including inter-male aggression, dominance, and fear of predators. In 2010 Darren joined the faculty of the Wellcome Trust Sanger Institute in Cambridge and became an EMBO Young Investigator in 2013. Using mouse models his team combines large-scale transcriptional profiling, behavioural testing, and neural activation studies to identify and investigate genes that influence smell, behaviour and cognition.

Dr Tristram Wyatt is a researcher at the Department of Zoology at the University of Oxford and an Emeritus Fellow of Kellogg College, Oxford. He studies how pheromones evolve across the animal kingdom. He is the author of the book Pheromones and animal behavior (2014, 2nd edition, Cambridge University Press) which has a chapter devoted to human pheromones.

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Speakers Alison Davidson works in the Analytical Methods Laboratory at

Staffordshire University where she teaches Forensic Science and Biology students and helps with research projects on a wide range of topics. Alison is also an active member of a cross-university Research Burial Group and is currently completing her PhD Thesis on the Potential Evidential Value of Perfumes, Antiperspirants and Deodorants in Forensic Science.

Emmanuelle Moeglin applies her creative and analytical mind as Mintel’s Fragrance & Personal Care analyst and presenter, backed by several years of experience in fragrance development and market research.

Emmanuelle has always been passionate about perfume. A graduate of ISIPCA, perfume school in Paris, Emmanuelle has worked with both fragrance brands and suppliers including L’Oreal, Puig and Symrise, developing fragrances for various brands and markets. Throughout the years, she has built an extensive knowledge of the fragrance and beauty industry working in Paris, Barcelona, New York and London. As Mintel’s Global Analyst, Emmanuelle applies her creative and analytical background to various sectors of the beauty industry. Emmanuelle is regularly called upon by the global media to give insight and analysis on global fragrance and personal care trends and presents to industry events.

Christophe Laudamiel is a world-famous perfumer who has created fragrances for leading fashion and beauty houses such as Estee Lauder, Thierry Mugler, Michael Kors, Burberry, Tommy Hilfiger, Tom Ford, Clinique, Ralph Lauren, and Abercrombie & Fitch. He is now Master Perfumer and President of DreamAir LLC and promoting the concept of Air Sculpture® design thanks to a close collaboration with Firmenich. He is also the President of the Academy of Perfumery in New York introducing the Osmotheque to America. His creations include the first scent track for the 2006 film Perfume, including the scent of a virgin and the smell of Paris in 1738, for the Davos World Economic Forum, for the Elton John black candle, for “Orchidelirium” the first cologne for the Royal Botanical Gardens in London and for the Hamburg Panoptikum Wax Museum (sponsored by SC Johnson) demonstrate his avant-garde approach in Perfumery.

photo: Laurent E Badessi

His academic work includes the first five scents ever officially archived at Harvard University, and, again with Christoph Hornetz, are since 2011 the very first perfumers to have scents as part of the permanent official collection of a museum anywhere: at the International Perfume Museum in Grasse. He contributed several unique chapters to reference books on perfumery and regularly collaborates with unique artists such as Orlan, Heston Blumenthal, photographer Laurent Badessi and New York artist Kiki Smith. He is known each time for his pioneering work, creating a trail of patents, new technologies to display fragrances and of course signature, elaborate and truly artistic scents and fragrances.

Fragrance Forum 2014 Exhibitor IFRA UK would like to thank ICATS for exhibiting at the 2014 Fragrance Forum. Please visit them during the breaks to discover more.

ICATS (International Centre for Aroma Trades Studies) has been providing distance learning to the Aroma Trades Industry on a global basis for over 25 years. The Diploma syllabus was developed in consultation with the Education Committee of IFEAT (International Federation of Essential Oils and Aroma Trades) covering both technical and business aspects. Material has been written by leading industry practitioners such as John Ayres (Past President British Society of Perfumers), Brian Lawrence (essential oils) and John Wright (flavours). The programme provides total flexibility; participants can elect to take the full IFEAT Diploma or just study individual modules. Website www.icatsaromaeducation.com Email aroma@plym.ac.uk Telephone 01752 518034 phf130923 A5 Ad-PR.pdf





For all your fragrancing requirements Phoenix Fragrances, 1 Chieftain Business Park, Morris Close, Park Farm Industrial Estate, Wellingborough, Northamptonshire NN8 6XF Tel: +44 (0)1933 400955 Fax:+44 (0)1933 401102 Email: info@phoenix-fragrances.co.uk Website: www.phoenix-fragrances.co.uk


Creators & Suppliers of Quality Fragrances

Forthcoming IFRA Events 13th November 2014 Understanding Toxicology Seminar The Royal Society, London £50 Members / £75 Non-Members The agenda will shortly appear on the website events page. www.ifrauk.org Register with Julie Young at julie@ifrauk.org

2015 Members’ Information Days January 27th 2015 June 30th 2015

IFRA UK 2015 Fragrance Forum 15th October 2015 - Save the Date

IFRA UK will be exhibiting at:

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The fragrance brief


Fragrance evaluation

Perfumery, art or science


Recent fine fragrances

Perfumery trends

Ingredients for Perfumery

Life as a Perfumer

Create your own fragrance

This Perfumery Workshop is ideal for people in fragrance related roles or considering a career in the fragrance industry.

Starting on Friday 27th February 2015 and continuing through the weekend, attendees will gain unique insight and knowledge of the fragrance industry. This includes presentations from industry experts, discussion based learning, ongoing opportunities to ask the experts, and practical application of fragrance knowledge by developing a fragranced product as part of a team.

Places are strictly limited. Please book early to avoid disappointment!

February 27th to 1st March 2015 Whittlebury Hall, Towcester, Northamptonshire, NN12 8QH Early Bird Discount Available for bookings before 31st January 2015: Members £410, Non-Members £450 Includes course, accommodation and meals Normal Price: Members £450, Non-Members £500

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For further Information & to book Email: bspsecretary@aol.com Web: www.bsp.org.uk

IFRA UK would like to thank our sponsors and partners in 2014: Gold Sponsors:

Silver Sponsors:

Bronze Sponsor:

Sponsor of the luncheon wine:

Sponsor of the tea/coffee:

Providers of the gift bags and contents:

2014 Fragrance Forum 16th October 2014

www.ifrauk.org | Secretariat: secretariat@ifrauk.org | Press Office: jo@ifrauk.org

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