Issue 1 - February 2017 Issue 1 - February 2017 |
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Colour your world with the captivating make-up services offered by Johnathan Andrews Studios.
We cover all fields of make-up design, special effects and prosthetics to provide services specifically suited to the look that you desire. Join us in studio for a fun-filled day of transformation as we work our magic on you. info@johnathan-andrews.com 011 452 0042
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| FaceExpresso
Issue 1 - February 2017 |
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CONTENTS Introducing the Crew Editor’s Letter From the Make-up Team
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Day Look The Modern Monroe
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Evening Look Midnight Marilyn
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Something Sassy The Curved Cat-Eye
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A Splash of Colour The Hardy Queen
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Costume Classics Ladies in Lace
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Colour Palletes One with Wildness Shades of Orange
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Beauty Scene Knowing your Skin Type
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The FaceExpresso Team Editor in Chief: Johnathan Andrews Art Director: Samantha Munro Assistant Editor: Jean-Mari de Swardt Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Make-up Artists: Kelly Broodryk, Sindi Kheswa, Jean-Mari de Swardt, Anna Moshoeshoe, Michelle R Masemola, Lulama Malangabi Content Editor: Bianca Cilliers, Lefu Ramatsebe, Edward Bennett Photo Retoucher: Samantha Munro, Rob Smit You could be a FaceExpresso Model, Contact us now: 4
www.faceexpresso.com
| FaceExpresso info@johnathan-andrews.com
011 452 0042
On the Cover: Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Model: Simone Michaela Harris Photo Retoucher: Samantha Munro Make-up Artist: Lulama Malangabi Right: Photographer: Hulisani Roma Photo Retoucher: Samantha Munro Make-up Artist: Lulama Malangabi
Editor’s Letter Welcome to the very first issue of FaceExpresso magazine! FaceExpresso has been created by the make-up artists of Johnathan Andrews Studios and is an online magazine constructed around all things make-up and beauty. In this issue you will see a variety of looks ranging from modernised classics to the more inventive and dramatic side of make-up design. Accompanied by each look is an article that sheds some light on the inspiration behind the idea as well as a swift step-by-step application explanation. It has been an absolute pleasure compiling this magazine and working with a group of talented individuals who all played a crucial role in making this project possible. May you enjoy FaceExpresso as much as we have enjoyed creating it.
From the Make-up Team What more could a girl ask for than the unique opportunity to work with a team of talented make-up artists who are filled to the brim with character and creativity? And on top of that we get to showcase our work in our very own magazine! We have had a fabulous time putting these shoots together to create looks centred around themes that we have found inspirational in terms of make-up design and wardrobe. Each look shines with the distinct essence of the make-up artist who created it and has thus only fueled our hunger to do more and to push our abilities to their full potential. Throughout this process we have learnt and grown as artists, both individually and as a team. We are delighted to invite you to the world of make-up. Issue 1 - February 2017 |
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The
Mo
Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Make-up Artists: Kelly Broodryk, Sindi Kheswa Photo Retoucher: Ndumiso Maaga, Samantha Munro Model: Chantelle Odendaal Article: Jean-Mari de Swardt 6
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e Modern
onroe Inspired by the glam queen Marilyn Monroe, this timeless classic is an easy and elegant application which is perfect for spicing up both day and evening looks. Coined by the glam queen Marilyn Monroe back in the 50’s, this timeless classic is an easy and elegant application which is perfect for adding some distinction to your day. Yet you don’t need to take on the full blown porcelain effect for this look to be a success. The Modern Monroe can become anything you want it to be; sexy, sweet and everything in between. Don’t be afraid to bend the rules every now and then by adding a bit of colour to your eyeshadow or trying a different shade on the lips. This look can be combined with lighter colours such as beige or brown toned outfits in order to give the make-up a softer effect, or it can be combined with sexy black numbers in order to bring out the full flash effect of the red lips and winged eyes to create an absolute stunner. Now it’s time to get ready to paint the town red. And here is how: Start off by cleansing the face and applying primer. Then, using a Foundation brush, apply a foundation that matches the skintone and blend until everything is smooth and evenly spread. Using a Powder brush, apply translucent powder for a smooth finish and to set the foundation. Issue 1 - February 2017 |
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The next step is contouring. Use a lighter shade of foundation as a highlighter and apply to the areas above the eyebrows, between the eyebrows, on the tip of the nose and about a finger’s gap on the top of the cheekbone. Also apply to the jawline, tip of the chin and above the lips. Blend this into the foundation. Next, apply bronzer or a darker shade of foundation to the areas under the cheekbone, above the temples, on the sides of the nose and chin, and under the jaw. Be sure to blend well so that there are no visible lines.
Apply liquid eyeliner to the top of the lids, extending slightly at the end of the eye. Line the bottom of the eye using a black pencil or eyeshadow, going only a third of the way in order to make the eyes look bigger. Using an Angle brush, apply a little bit of white eyeshadow underneath the eye. Apply mascara and (optionally) false lashes for a more dramatic effect.
Now it’s time for the eyebrows. Using an Angle brush, apply dark brown eyeshadow to the eyebrows, to fill and shape them.
Finish off with a dark red lip liner and lipstick to the lips.
Next, apply an off white/ light beige coloured eyeshadow to the whole eyelid. Apply brown eyeshadow to the crease of the lid and then blend upwards towards the eyebrows. Apply a darker brown eyeshadow to the crease and blend well, creating a small “C” shape at the outside corners of the eyes. Touch up the beige eyeshadow to ensure maximum effect.
Using a Blush brush, apply a red-brown blusher to the cheekbones.
Your next step is to slip into your best outfit, slap on some heels and go make them all stare. After all, as stated by the porcelain princess herself, “Give a girl the right shoes, and she can conquer the world”.
“ We a re a l l o f u s s t a rs , a n d we deserve to twinkle” M a r i l y n M o n ro e
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Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Make-up Artists: Kelly Broodryk, Sindi Kheswa Model: Chantelle Odendaal Photo Retoucher: Ndumiso Maaga Article: Jean-Mari de Swardt
Issue Issue 1 -1December - February 2016 2017 |
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“I’m very definitely a woman and I enjoy it” M a r i l y n M o n ro e
Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Model: Tabeth Ushendibaba Article: Jean-Mari de Swardt Photo Retoucher: Samantha Munro Make-up Artists: Anna Moshoeshoe, Michelle R Masemola 10 | FaceExpresso
The Midnight Marilyn is perfect for adding a glow of elegance to the night. This look incorporates softer and more subtle colours, a bit of shimmer and an overall softer glimmer than the tradition ‘Marilyn Monroe Classic’. The Midnight Marilyn is a graceful look that is exquisitely suited for any kind of night-time magic. And for the daring ones, darker shades and brighter lips can always come in to play to add some spice.
the shadows with a blender brush. Apply matte black shadow on the outer corner of the eye with a crease brush and blend in both colours together avoiding the separation in between. Apply eyeliner under the eyes followed by a liquid eyeliner at the top of the eyelash line. Glue in eyelashes and straighten using a mascara blush.
On a clean and dry face, apply primer using your fingertips to dab in the product and then blend with a foundation brush. Next, apply concealer to the necessary areas such as under the eyes and darker marks on the skin. Be sure to blend until even.
The Midnight Marilyn is a graceful look that is exquisitely suited for any kind of night-time magic.
The next step is the eyebrows. Using a dark brown eyebrow pencil or eyeshadow, shade and shape the eyebrows following the shape that you want. With an eyebrow brush or clean mascara brush, brush out your eyebrows towards the shape and apply lighter concealer underneath the brows to make them stand out. Using the same clean mascara brush, brush the inner corner of the eyebrows towards the bridge of the nose. Once the brows are done, apply foundation as follows: decant foundation onto a pallet or onto the outer part of your hand and gently use a foundation brush to apply to the face. Be sure to cover both face and neck for an even look. For the eyeshadows: first start with a “bone” or “natural” coloured shadow and cover the entire eyelid. Using shimmer shadows, apply to the eyelids towards the crease and blend in
After the eyes comes the lips. With evening make up bright and dark colours work perfectly as they enhance the look. You could try plum shades, or to add a splash of vivid colour you could use a “RubiRed” kind of colour. For some final touch ups, use bronzer to add a bit of glow, applying it to the forehead, bridge of the nose, chin and cheeks Use two shades of blush (darker & lighter) on your jawline, blend in towards your cheeks and then you’re good to go. With a look like this you are sure to dazzle the crowd and add a glow to the room. The Midnight Marilyn brings out the woman in you; the woman that shines.
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Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Make-up Artists: Kelly Broodryk, Sindi Kheswa, Jean-Mari de Swardt, Anna Moshoeshoe Photo Retoucher: Rob Smit, Samantha Munro Article: Jean-Mari de Swardt Model: Tatiana Pinto 12 | FaceExpresso
T he Curved Cat-Eye
The Cat-Eye has been an ultimate sensation since the times of Cleopatra. It may have shied away every couple of decades, but it has always re-emerged and every time it takes the beauty world by storm.
This iconic look is known for creating a magnetising effect by adding a feline grace to the eyes. Cat-Eye liners come in many different shapes and sizes and easily suits any eye shape; so there’s no reason to think that this look might not work for you.
The Curved Cat-Eye that has been created for this look is even more powerful due to its double liner effect, applied both on the lids and on the creases of the eyes. Even though it may seem rather intimidating, there’s really nothing much to it once you follow some of the helpful tips provided in this tutorial. Be daring and add some edge to those eyes!
Simply follow these steps to bring out your adventurous side Lightly apply primer and foundation on a clean face, free of excess oil. Make sure that the application is not too thick in order to ensure the skin remains looking natural. Contour the face slightly by applying foundation that is one or two shades darker than the original foundation colour beneath the cheekbones, on the sides of the nose, on the temples, beneath the chin and any other areas that need contouring. Apply foundation that is a shade lighter than the original foundation colour above the eyebrows, the bridge of the nose, tip of the chin, above the cheekbones and any other areas that may need to be highlighted in order to stand out more. Avoid making the contouring very visible, as the emphasis should be on the eyes whereas the rest of the look should be neutral and natural. Using a clean mascara brush, comb out the eyebrows to ensure all the hairs are neat and tidy and then apply a dark brown eyeshadow to the eyebrows using an Angle brush. Next, cut two strips of cellotape (about 3cm long each) and stick them diagonally on the sides of the eyes, stretching from the outside corners of the eyes to the tip of the end of the eyebrows. Using the cellotape as a kind of ruler, trace two straight wings with liquid eyeliner from the tip of the eye up to about half a
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centimetre below the tip of eyebrows. Remember to keep in mind that the eyeliner should make the eyes look more elongated, so try not to draw the liner at too much of an upward angle. Using the wing a as guideline, use liquid eyeliner to outline the top and bottom lids of the eyes, making sure that the lines curve slightly from the wing in order
The emphasis should be on the eyes whereas the rest of the look should be neutral and natural. to create a flow from the wing to the lids. Draw the lines very slightly past the inside tip of the eye, creating a sharp point at the end. The next step would be to create a curved line from the middle of the wing to the centre of the crease of the eye. Once you have created the line in the crease, use the liquid eyeliner to colour in and round out the lines so that a half-oval kind of shape is created between the top lids of the eyes into the crease of the eyes, flowing neatly from the wing. Once you are happy with the shapes of 14 | FaceExpresso
the lines and curves made with the liquid eyeliner, apply black eyeshadow to the lines and curves so as to darken them and to help blend the shape so that the lines are neat and solid. Apply a greyish-silver eyeshadow to the top of the lids, rounding it from the inside half-oval shape of the eyeliner and following through to the inside tip of the lid above the eyeliner, keeping in mind to not apply the eyeshadow on the lines created by the liquid eyeliner. Finish off the eyes by applying mascara to both the top and bottom lashes. To round off the look, apply a light pink coloured blush to the cheekbones and a neutral lipstick to the lips. This application may take some practice but once you get the hang of it you’ll be surprised as to how hypnotising the effects can be. The Curved CatEye is a very dramatic look so remember to rather pair it with an outfit that compliments it but does not make it look too theatrical.
The Queen
Hardy Model: Clarissa Basilio Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Make-up Artist: Jean-Mari de Swardt Article: Jean-Mari de Swardt
If you are ready to let your
inner daredevil come out to play, this is the look for you.
Inspired by the colourful tattoo artworks of Don Ed Hardy, this look is designed to stand out and strike. Hardy’s signature styles of colourful vines of roses and thorns interwoven with something like a tiger or skull is the perfect blend of beauty and ‘badass’. The fun thing about this look is that you can choose any colours that you like in order to compliment the outfit that you are going for. This jaw-dropping look worn with confidence and grace is sure to keep people staring. Before applying any make-up, ensure that the face has been washed/ wiped clean and is free of any excess oils. Apply a primer to the face in order to provide a smooth surface for the foundation. Once the primer has been blended into the skin, apply concealer to the necessary areas, making sure that it is well blended into the skin to ensure that the concealer does not show through the foundation. Next, apply foundation using a foundation brush and then set the makeup by applying translucent powder to the whole face using a powder brush. This will ensure that the make-up does not smudge too easily and that the foundation does not look oily. Remember to blend the foundation below the chin and into the neck area to ensure that the skin tone is consistent from face to chest. Once the foundation has been blended and set, comb out the eyebrows using a clean mascara brush to ensure that all the hairs are neat and tidy and pointing in the same direction. Using an angle brush, apply a dark brown or black eyeshadow to the eyebrows and shape the brows according to the natural eyebrow shape. For this look it is important to make the eyebrows well defined because they help to create a natural guideline for the application of the eyeshadows that are to follow.
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Now it’s time to have some fun with colour. Due to the bold nature of the Ed Hardy artworks you can experiment with any colours that you like. For this look a combination of purples, greens and golds were used. Start off by applying a matt purple eyeshadow from the outside corner of the eyes and create an arch through the crease to the inner corner of the eye, stopping right above the tear duct. Blend the purple to soften the lines, creating a smoky kind of appearance. Apply the same purple eyeshadow to the outside corner of the crease and blend upwards in order to create a higher and slightly pointed arch. Blend the purple eyeshadow until the desired shape has been attained. Next, apply a light matt green eyeshadow onto the ball of the eye, underneath the purple arch and blend slightly upwards into the purple arch. Blend the green eyeshadow all over the ball of the eye, following through to the tear duct. However, be sure to not blend the purple and green eyeshadows too much into one another because the bold clash of colours and lines is what makes this look so effective. Once the green eyeshadow has been blended and set, apply a light golden eyeshadow on top of the green in order to create a slight shimmer. Do not apply too much gold as the green must be completely visible. Apply a darker shade of golden eyeshadow on the inside corner of the eye on top of the green, going about half a
“A tattoo is an af firmation: t h at this body is yours to have and to enjoy wh ile you’re here. Nobody else can control what you do with it.”
centimetre from the tear duct outwards. Both of the golden eyeshadows must only be applied to the green and should not touch the purple as the purple must maintain its rich matt look.
And now it’s time to draw the line. Apply black liquid eyeliner to the top lids right above the lashes from the inside corners Don Ed H ard y to the outside corners of the eyes. The thickness of the line is entirely up to taste, but for this look the eyeliner was approximately a millimetre thick. Once the top eyeliner has been applied, use a soft black pencil and line the bottom lids of the eyes, making sure that it is not too thick or dark as the emphasis should be on the top lid. Apply mascara to the lashes when the eyeliner has been perfected. After the eyes have been completed, contour by applying a powder bronzer to the area underneath the cheekbone, under the chin, on the temples and any other areas that need to be toned down. Apply a light pink blush powder onto the cheekbones and then apply a very light, shimmery pinkish eyeshadow onto the area above the cheekbone, using the eyeshadow as a type of highlighter. The final step is the lips. Using a lip liner, correct the lips if necessary. Any colour lipstick can be used for this, however a darkish pink or plum colour stands out brilliantly with this look. And there you have it. Be bold and wear this look with attitude and a bit of leather.
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LADIES IN LACE
Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Model: Claudette Roux Make-up Artist: Jean-Mari de Swardt Article: Jean-Mari de Swardt 18 | FaceExpresso
One of the sexiest things a woman can possess is a bit of mystery. These looks can do just that. A lace mask adds a romantic elegance perfect for something like a costume party or masquerade. And the best part is that it will cost you next to nothing. All you need is a strip of lace and a bit of paint. This look can be transformed into something that is perfect for your face alone, which makes every outcome unique and special. The great thing about lace is that it comes in all kinds of sizes, shapes and designs. The first thing that you have to do is pick out a strip of lace that stands out to your taste. Keep in mind that you can cut the lace up into any desired shapes or sizes to fit the mask that you are creating. Before starting with the make-up application you need to determine how you intend to apply the lace to the face. Cut the lace into pieces and combine the different pieces and patterns into the desired mask that best suits your face shape.
The first step of the make-up application is to ensure that the face has been wiped/washed clean and is free of any excess oils. Next, use concealer to cover up all imperfections on the skin. Be sure to blend properly so that the concealer does not show through the foundation. Apply a foundation that matches your skin tone and set the make-up using translucent powder. Once the make-up has been set apply mastics glue to the pieces of lace and stick them to the face in the pattern previously determined. Remember to keep the lace in place for some time before letting go to ensure that the lace does not slip off. After you have completed applying the lace to form the outline of the mask, fill the mask using black grease paint. Set the paint by applying black eyeshadow over it. Next, apply false eyelashes. Use a lip liner to correct the lips if necessary and then apply whichever colour lipstick you like. The cool thing about that is that the lipstick pretty much determines the overall style of the look you have chosen. This is a look that is timeless and classic and a girl can never go wrong with lace. Be sure to mix and match colours and patterns. There is no end to what this look can be.
With this unique Lace Look you can add some mystery to your make-up.
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Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Model: Claudette Roux, Xane Haydock Make-up Artist: Kelly Broodryk, Jean-Mari de Swardt
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Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Model: Xane Haydock Make-up Artist: Kelly Broodryk Issue 1 - February 2017 | 21
ONE WITH
THE W
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WILD
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Onto the eyebrows: • You will need a pre-base which would be your natural colour eye-shadow • Apply light green eye-shadow on your eyelid • Use a dark green eyeshadow on the cris of your eyes. If you feel like it is not dark enough you can wet your brush and apply it over and over again until you are satisfied • It is always safe to use a dark eyeliner like a black or brown liner. Application of a liner can be a quarter way from the outer corner of your eye or all the way to the inner corner of your eye • Then curl your eyelashes with a mascara or your choice • Finish off your look with a lip colour that compliments your eyeshadow. In this case, neutral colours like light pink and nude work best. Or you can always opt for glosses, just to be on the safe side
“I was amazed that what I needed to survive could be carried on my back. And most suprising of all, that I could carry it.” Cheryl Strayed
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“Every morning in the middle of nowhere, without electricity or anyone to impress, I’d take great care in picking out my outfit and hover in front of a business card-size mirror to apply my lip gloss and check my eyebrows…” Mireya Mayor
Once in a while one needs to escape from the hustle and bustle of a restless city with hooting cars to soak in the serenity of chirping birds and soothing sounds of a gentle wind breezing through the leaves. If you’re a happy camper and you do not want to leave your makeup behind, this article is just for you. Most people might say that camping and makeup do not and cannot go together. We believe that if it works for you, why not? Instead of a red carpet face-do-up, we suggest a getting-back-to-nature look which allows you to look and feel good while blending in with Mother Nature’s beauty and tranquillity. First things first, you need to apply light foundation that matches your skin colour just to even your skin tone. Set the foundation with some powder. You do not necessarily have to shape your eyebrows with a pencil or powder, brushing them with an eyebrow brush will be just fine. But if you feel like you need to define them more, then go for it.
Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Model: Azraa Sader Photo Retoucher: Samantha Munro Make-up Artist: Lulama Malangabi Article: Kelo Ringani Issue 1 - February 2017 | 25
SHADES OF
OR AN GE 26 | FaceExpresso
Photographer: Johnathan Andrews Model: Simone Michaela Harris Photo Retoucher: Samantha Munro Make-up Artist: Lulama Malangabi Article: Mbali Nkosi Issue 1 - February 2017 | 27
Tip: If you’re using eye liner, shy away from black. Use darker tones of colours you’ve already implemented in your eyes. 28 | FaceExpresso
“Keep your face always toward the sunshine - and shadows will fall behind you.” Walt Whitman
Rainbow eyeshadow has made a comeback as people are still enjoying the last few weeks of summer. Take your eye game a step further to achieve a look that reflects your state of mind: reveling in the summer sun. Lulama Malangabi, our make-up artist, carefully selected bright colors that were not only on trend but matched the overall tone of the ultimate summer look. With this brave look you can incorporate the very colours of the end of a rough day, the sunset, in your eyelids. It’s time to ditch the smokey eye and the dark dreary eyes of winter. Think light, bright and breezy. This multifaceted look can be achieved with 5 basic shades (on your right). Pair it with a subtle but vibrant lip color and you’re ready to seize the summer day. How To: Start by applying concealer if you have any imperfections, followed by a natural foundation that matches your skin tone. Then you can powder your face to achieve a natural matte look. For your eyes to stand out, your eyebrows have to be on point. Therefore shape your eyebrows by tweezing any stubborn hairs that might be out of place. Perfect the shape by using an eyebrow pencil. Make sure to use a brown eyebrow or eyeliner pencil as it looks more natural and is more appropriate for a day look. Move your attention to your eyes, the star of the show. Apply a prebase eyeshadow. This is usually a neutral colour that is close to your skin tone and will serve as a base. After this you can play with multiple summer eyeshadow colours of your choice to achieve the ‘rainbow’ effect. Stick to a bright palate, avoiding dark or nude colours. After all, summer is not a time to be mysterious, but a season to be fun. While you’re having fun with your eyeshadow, don’t forget your look is not finished. Pop your peepers with some mascara. Complete the look by applying a lip colour that complements your eyeshadow colours, rather than overpowering them. Don’t forget to apply a similar coloured lip liner before applying your lip colour. Use the lip liner to correct the shape if necessary, this will also prevent the lipstick and/ or lip gloss from bleeding into the creases around the mouth. Pair this with those fun bikinis, shorts, or dresses you’ve been dying to show off. If your face is your canvas, who not make it colorful? Issue 1 - February 2017 | 29
Beauty
Scene
Normal (balanced) Skin
Normal Skin
There are no signs of oily or dry areas. It is actually a ‘perfect’ skin and is, of course quite rare in adults. • • • • •
Has an even texture Has good elasticity Has small pores Feels soft and firm to the touch Is usually blemish free.
Oily Skin
Oily Skin
There is an overproduction of sebum by the sebaceous glands. This can be caused by hormones, for example in puberty. • • • • •
Has an uneven texture Has normal elasticity Has large pores Feels thick and greasy to touch Often has blemishes such as comedones,papules,pustules and scares • Appears sallow(slightly yellow)in colour and has a characteristic shine • Ages slowly
Tip: If you have oily skin, rather use gel or liquid based cleansers and moisturisers as cream or oil based products will only increase the oiliness of the skin. 30 | FaceExpresso
Knowing your Skin
Dry Skin
The skin is the largest organ of the human body. Knowing your skin type is an essential first step to finding out how to care for your skin and which kind of make-up application is best suited for you.
There is either an underproduction of sebum or a lack of moisture, or both put together. • Has flaky, dry patches and a thin, coarse texture • Has poor elasticity • Feels dry, coarse and papery to touch • Looks like parchment and often has dilated capillaries around the cheek and nose area • May also be sensitive • Ages prematurely, especially around the eyes, mouth and neck.
Sensitive Skin
Dry Skin
Sensitive skin often accompanies dry skin and is easily irritated. • Is hypersensitive and reactions can include reddening, itching and chafing • Often has dilated capillaries • Is often dry and transparent • Is usually warm to touch
Tip: If you have dry skin be sure to avoid products that contain alcohol or other irritants. Use products that are nourishing and protective. Combination Skin
Combination Skin
Is mixture of dry, normal and greasy skin and is the most common type of skin. • Has a oily t-zone (forehead, nose and chin) which feels thick and greasy and is often blemished • Has dry cheeks and neck which feel flaky and coarse and may have dilated capillaries • The tone and elasticity varies • May also have sensitive areas
Photos: Kelly Broodryk. Article: Sindi Kheswa, Jean-Mari de Swardt Issue 1 - February 2017 | 31
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