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INSIDE JYF
How Sweet
It Is
Try a different and delicious twist on sweet potatoes this fall with centuries-old favorites from English cookbooks. In the 17th and 18th centuries, it was popular to cook sweet potatoes with tart apples like Pippins or Granny Smiths. At Jamestown Settlement and the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown, historical interpreters enjoy making these recipes (known as receipts) in outdoor re-creations of James Fort and the Revolution-era farm.
Originating in South and Central America, sweet potatoes were domesticated by Native Americans at least 5,000 years ago. They became popular in Europe, Asia and Africa once they were introduced to the Old World by explorers. Boiled, broiled, roasted, stewed and baked, sweet potatoes became part of main dishes, side dishes and desserts. At first, they were much more popular in England than “white” potatoes, so historical recipes often only note “potatoes” but really mean sweet potatoes.
– Lara Templin, Assistant Interpretive Program Manager
See this 17th-century sweet potato recipe and other historical dishes at jyfmuseums.org/recipes, and enjoy “Foods & Feasts of Colonial Virginia” on November 26 and 27 (see page 44).
To make Potatoe Fritters (Pancakes) Boil, and then mix the Pulp with Milk, Cloves, Cinnamon, and Loaf Sugar powdered. To this put minced Apples, and fry them as common Fritters, in Hog’s Lard. – Adam’s Luxury and Eve’s Cookery, 1744 2-3 s weet potatoes (boiled, skinned and mashed, making about 2 cups) 1-2 tart apples (peeled and minced, about 1 cup) 1 Tbsp milk ¼ tsp cloves ½ tsp cinnamon 2 Tbsp sugar (either brown or granulated) 1 cup flour Butter, oil or lard to grease the skillet
These are really pancakes rather than modern fritters. Mix the ingredients into a thick dough and spoon onto a greased skillet over medium to medium-low heat, turning to cook through. It is common for 18th-century cookbooks to forget to mention flour since its use is “obvious” to the trained 18th-century cook. Many modern cooks will prefer to fry with oil or butter rather than lard. Try these with maple syrup for breakfast!