VOYAGES OF DRAKE Bann all
*
SIR E DRAKE
VOYAGES OF ANSON
EXAMINING A TORTOISE ON DECK. -DRAKE AND DAMPIER'S VOYAGES. (Frontispiecc.)
A
VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD BY
SIR FRANCIS DRAKE AND
WILLfAM DAMPIER . 1 .
Jcconling to tbe Text oi the 0riginal J'larratiuu
EDITED, WITII NOTIIS, ET()., nv
-D. LAING PURVES
WILLIAM P.
NIMMO
EDINBURGH. 1880.
& CO.,
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CONTENTS. BIOOJU.PffiCAL NOTICES,
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
rAOR 'l'hc Llama, . . 41 The Catholics of Lima, . 43 Earthquake off Nicaragua, . 45 46 At Guatulco, . . Sufferings through extreme col<I, 47 49 In Bay of San Francisco, . Customs of the natives, 51 A visit from the King, 53 Conrted by the nntives, . . 55 Departure from the Californian coast, r,7 f,!l Molucca or Spice Islands, . At Temate, . . . GO 65 At anchor olf Crab Islan,1, . 67 Helpless on a shoal, Off the coast of Cele lx,s, . 69 71 Visit from the Rajahs of Jav.,, 71 Voyage home, At Sierra Leone, . 71 72 Arrival at Plymouth,.
PAOB
Dedication, . . . . Equipment of the Pelican, Eliza. beth, Marigold, Swau, and the . Christopher for the voyage, . Set sail from Plymouth, . At Mogador, . . Among Cape Verd Islands, Volcanoes of Fogo and Brava, Off the coast of Brazil, Severe storms, . . Barbarons customs of the natives, In Port St Julian, . . . 'frial and execution of Thomas . . . Doughty,. Islands of St George aml Elizabeth, Passage through Straits of Magellan, On the coast of Pern, . . Help received from the Indians, . Cruelty of the Spaniards, . .
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10 11 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 26 29 30 35 37 39
DRAKE'S LAST VOYAGE.
I
Death of Sir Francis Drake, Bxpeclition to the West Indies, 1743 The Quarrel with Sir John Hawkins, homeward voyage, . Death of Sir John Hawkins, . ;:; ! At anchor in the Channel,. Rio de la Haehn taken, . Remarks on Spanish possessions i 11 the West Indies,. . Burning of La Ranchcria, . . Treasure taken at Nombrc ,le Dios, End of Maynarde's Narrative,
ro I
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
The Author's acconnt of himself, 'l'he Epis_tle dedicatory, . . . . . . . , . Preface, . . 'l'he btrodnction, containing tho Author's departure from Euglnn,l into the West Indies and tho South Seas to the time of his leaving Captain Sharp, CHAPTF.R I. His return ont or tho South Sens to his lan<ling at the Isthmus of America, CHAP'l'ER II. His return by land over the Isthmus, CH APTER III. . His traverses among the We;;t India Islands and coast, nnd arrival In Virginia, CHAPTER IV. Bl! departure for the South Seas agnin; his touch in� l\t the Mands of Cape Verd and the African coast, and arrival at tho l61e of J nan Fernandez, .
81 83 84 81 8,J 87 93 !•l 9;; 07 101 107 123
CONTENTS.
PAGE CHAPTER V. His course thence northward to the Isles of Lobos and Gallapagos, to Caldera 132 Bay, Realejo, and Amapalla, in the kingdom of Mexico, CHAPTER VI. He goes back towards Peru to the Isle Plata, Point Santa, Hellena, Manta, 145 Paita, Lobos, Puna, Guayaquil, and Plata again, • CHAPTER VII. His progress northward again to the River Santiago, Tomaco, the Isle Galleo, · 156 Isle Gorgonia, the Pearl Islands, etc. , in the Bay of Panama, CHAPTER VIII. He proceeds along the Mexican coast to the keys of Quibo, Realego, and the harbour of Guatulco,. • 171 · CHAPTER IX. He coasts along to Acapulco, Petaplan, Estapa, Couma, Sallagua, Cape Cor rientes ; thence to the Isles of Chametly, Bay of Valderas, Isles of Pon tique, other Isles of Chametly, Massaclan, Rosario, River Santiago, Santa 179 Pecaque, Isles of Santa Maria, Valderas, and Cape Corrientes again, CHAPTER X. He stands over the Southern Ocean for the East Indies, and arrives at Guam, 194 · · one of the Ladrone Isles, CHAPTER XI. His arrival at Mindanao, one of the Philippine Islands, and of its natural state, 199 CHAPTER XII. 204 The political state of Mindanao,. CHAPTER XIII. 212 Occurrences during the Author's stay at Mindanao, CHAPTER XIV. He departs towards Manilla in the Isle of Luconia ; touching at Bat Island and the Isle of Mindora, and leaving Luconia, he goes to Pulo Condore, on the coast of Cambodia, to Pulo Obi, in the Bay of Siam, and to Pulo • 223 Condore again, CHAPTER XV. He goes to the Island of St John on the coast of China, to the Isles Pesca dores near Formosa, and the Bashee or five islands between Formosa and Luconia, called Orange, Monmouth, Grafton, Bashee, and Goat Isles, .. CHAPTER XVI. He coasts along the east side of Luconia, Mindanao, and other of the Philip pines, and touching at the Islands of Celebes and Callasusung in the Island of Bouton, he arrives at New Holland, CHAPTER XVII. He goes thence, touches at the Island Trieste and another, and steering along the west coast of Sumatra, arrives at the Island of Nicobar, where he stays ashore, and the ship departs, CHAPTER XVIII. He stands over from thence in an open boat to Passange Jonca, and thence to Achin ; and after several traverses comes to Bencoolen, all on the Island • of Sumatra, CHAPTER XIX. . He ships himself for England, and arrives at the Cape of Good Hope,. CHAPTER XX. • His departure thence to St Helena, and arrival in the Downs, .
231
246
257
264
276 282
1
BIOGRAPHICAL
NOTICES
OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE & WILLIAM DAMPIER.
AMONG the voyagers and naval heroes flourishing in the times of Queen Elizabeth, a high place must be given to Sir Francis Drake for his courage and persevering bravery, displayed in almost every enterprise, successful or unsuccessful, with which he was identi fied. His father is said to have been a poor yeoman, inhabiting a humble cottage at Tavistock, Devonshire, where his son, Francis, was born in or about the year 1539 or 1541 ; but having embraced the Protestant religion, he was compelled to fly into Kent, where, for some time, the family are said to have inhabited the hull of a ship on the sea coast. His family being in poor circumstances, and Francis being the eldest of twelve sons, he was early inured to hardihood, and was trained as a sailor from earliest youth. He was apprenticed to the master of a bark trading on the coast, and making occasional voyages between Zealand and France, in which employment he is said to have proved himself so painstaking and diligent, that his old master, having no children of his own , at his death bequeathed to him his bark and all its belongings. He continued this coasting trade for some time, but these narrow seas proving insufficient for his adventurous spirit, and fired with the idea of the possible wealth to be gained from an expedition to the New World, he gladly took advantage of an opportunity to join Captain John Hawkins in a voyage to the Spanish Main. Selling his vessel, he embarked his fortune and his person in this expedition at Plymouth in 1567. Drake's ship was called the Judith (50 tons), and which, notwithstanding the perils of the This voyage, by skilful seamanship, he brought safely home. expedition proving unfortunate, and losing all he had, he returned with an enlarged experience, and an increased and growing hatred towards the Spaniards. On the 24th of May 1572, he sailed from Plymouth in command of the Pasha, of 70 tons, and the Swan, of 25 tons, the latter commanded by his brother. In the end of July he came in sight of Santa Martha, and a few days afterwards was unexpectedly reinforced by another English bark, the Lion,
6
BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES .
commanded by Captain Rouse, and with thirty men on board The Lion willingly joined the Pasha and the Swan, when they sailed together for Nombre de Dios. Leaving his ships in charge of Rouse, he selected three-and-fifty men, and with these he landed under cover of the night of July 22d, and made his attack upon the town, which proved successful. After this voyage his thoughts were directed to the best means of realising his dream of ploughing the Pacific Ocean with English keels. While gathering help and enlisting supporters, he served with the Earl of Essex in an Irish campaign ; and his tactics and brilliant valour secured him the patronage of Queen Elizabeth. He was thus enabled, towards the close of 1577, to sail from Plymouth, . with five vessels, the largest of which was 100 and the smallest 15 tons. This was destined to prove his great voyage of circum navigation, which occupied about two years and ten months. The execution of Thomas Doughty in the course of this voyage has been regarded as one of the most doubtful acts in Drake's life, although he is represented as being perfectly honest and straight forward in the act, regretting Doughty's death, but looking upon it as necessary for the safety of the expedition . On his return he was knighted by Queen Elizabeth. Drake was next employed as commander-in-chief of the great fleet despatched in September 1585 against the Spanish West Indies. They made a successful attack on San Domingo, and, after a desperate struggle, carried Carthagena. Then, after doing infinite damage, and securing immense booty, Drake brought back his fleet to England in perfect safety. At this time he is said to have visited Virginia, and it is stated by Camden with regard to this voyage, that he was the first to bring tobacco to England, though Raleigh was the first to make its use popular. On the same authority it is stated that from the books, papers, and charts which were taken from an East India ship which he captured off the coast of Spain in 1587, originated the first suggestion for undertaking our East Indian trade, and suggested an application to the Queen for liberty to establish an East India Company. Drake played a high and honourable part in the defeat of the " Invincible Armada " of Spain. In April 1589 he took the command of the naval portion of a joint expedition against Spain. Corunna was captured, but owing to disease appearing among the land forces, little else was done or attempted, and Drake returned to England. For some time he addressed himself to civil pursuits, and in 1592-3 sat in Parlia ment as the representative of Plymouth. In 1594 he was again called to active service, Queen Elizabeth's government having determined on a new expedition against the Spanish colonies. It
BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.
7
consisted of six royal and twenty private ships, and Drake and Hawkins were associated in the command. The narrative of this ill-fated expedition, written by Thomas Maynarde, is given in the present work. When they had taken and plundered in succession Rio de la Hacha, Santa Martha, and Nombre de Dios, it became evident that Drake's career was nearly ended. He was seized with a severe illness, which, acting fatally on an already weakened frame, terminated in his death on the 20th December 1596. His body was placed in a leaden coffin, the solemn service of the Church was read over it, and then it was lowered into the deep. In Stowe's Annals Drake is described as " low of stature, of strong limbs, broad breasted, rounde headed, broune hayre, full bearded ; his eyes round, large, and clear, well favoured, fayre, and of a cheerfull countenance. His name was a terror to the French, Spaniard, Portugal, and Indians." The incursions of the buccaneers on the Spanish settlements in the South Seas, though undertaken in the first place for gain and plunder, helped to familiarise our English seamen with the geo graphy of the South American coast, and the other islands in the South Seas. The derivation of the word " buccaneer " is ascribed to the method which prevailed in Cuba at that time of killing, and curing the flesh of the cattle, according to the Carib method, on hurdles raised a few feet above the fire. This apparatus, the meat, and also the method of preparing it, the Indians called boocan, and hence those sailors who were engaged in supplying it to the cruisers and others were called buccaneers. Many of these adventurers were Englishmen, carrying on a smuggling trade both by sea and land. They all, without exception, plundered the Spaniards, and under this bond and unity of aim, they were sometimes called the brethren of the coast. Those who did their plundering on shore were called freebooters, and those who mainly cruised against the Spaniard were called buccaneers. If, in the case of a war with špain, a commission could be obtained, these buccaneers became privateers. The ordinary buccaneer set propriety at defiance by lirtiness and negligence in dress. Every buccaneer leader had a mate, who was heir to all his money, and in some cases they held a community of property. Among the more notable of the buccaneers who have left a record of their doings in the South Seas, we must place the name of Captain William Dampier, whose Voyage Round the World is given in the present volume. While reading this narrative, we feel that he was one of the most acute of observers, readily remark ing anything which at that time would be counted new or extra
8
BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.
ordinary, although these details at the present time, with our amazingly increased facilities of travel, and increased familiarity with the places and people described, may be ranked as more com monplace. In the "author's account of himself " we have a con cise narrative of his early training and way of life, with a graphic sketch of logwood cutting in Campeachy Bay, till the date of his joining with the buccaneers in 1679. His Voyage Round the World may be considered as a natural continuation of the story of his life, as it deals with all the public and personal affairs in which he was concerned up till the date of his return to England on Sep tember 16th, 1691 , Dampier having recommended himself very favourably to public attention by the publication of his " Voyage Round the World," at the instance of the Earl of Pembroke he was given the command of an expedition, ordered by King William in 1699 for the discovery of new countries, and the examination of New Holland and New Guinea. A vessel called the Roebuck was equipped for this pur pose. After visiting New Holland, he sailed for New Guinea, which he descried on January 1st, 1700. He had explored the west and north-west coasts of Australia, and gave his name to a small archipelago, east of North-west Cape. After exploring the coasts of New Guinea, New Britain, and New Ireland, he returned . In the homeward voyage the Roebuck sprang a leak off the Island of Ascension. Dampier and his men were forced to stay ten weeks on the island, but they were eventually picked up by three English ships of war, and conveyed to England. Although his last voyage had been partially unfortunate as far as the loss of the vessel was concerned, we find that he was next given command of the St George, a vessel of 26 guns, which, with the Cinque Ports of 16 guns, had been fitted out by English merchants on a privateering expedition to the South Seas. He did not shine as a commander, being, it is said, at times too familiar with his men, at other times using injudicious severity with frequent bursts of ill temper. The story of the crew of this somewhat mutinous expedition contains the incidents in the life of Alexander Selkirk, which form the groundwork of De Foe's world-famous " Robinson Crusoe." Little is known of Dampier's personal history after this voyage, After forty years' although he remained at sea up till 1711. wandering over the world, he seems to have sunk into obscurity as no record remains of how or when he died.
THE VOYAGE
ABOUT THE WORLD
BY SIR FRANCIS DRAKE.
ΤΟ THE TRULY NOBLE ROBERT EARL OF WARWICK.
RIGHT HONOURABLE, FAME and envy are both needless to the dead because unknown ; some times dangerous to the living when too well known ; reason enough that I rather choose to say nothing, than too little, in praise of the deceased author, or of your Lordship my de
EVER since Almighty God command- | ed Adam to subdue the earth, there have not wanted in all ages some heroical spirits which, in obedience to that high mandate, either from mani fest reason alluring them, or by secret instinct enforcing them, thereunto, have expended their wealth, employed their time, and adventured their per sons, to find out the true circuit thereof. Of these, some have endeavoured to effect this their purpose by conclu sion and consequence, drawn from the proportion of the higher circles to this nethermost globe, being the centre of the rest. Others, not contented with school points and such demonstrations (for that a small error in the begin uing groweth in the progress to a
sired fautor.¹ COLUMBUS did neatly check his emulators, by rearing an egg without assistance. Let the slighter of this voyage apply. If your Lord ship vouchsafe the acceptance, ' tis yours ; ifthe reader can pick out either use or content, ' tis his ; and I am pleased. Example being the public, and your Lordship'sfavour the private, aim of
Your humbly devoted, FRANCIS DRAKE. ?
great inconvenience) have added there unto their own history and experience. All of them in reason have deserved great commendation of their own ages, and purchased a just renown with all posterity. For if a surveyor of some few lordships, whereof the bounds and limits were before known, worthily deserve his reward, not only for his travel, but for his skill also in mea suring the whole and every part thereof, how much more, above com parison, are their famous travels by all means possible to be eternized, who have bestowed their studies and en
1 Favourer, patron. 2 Nephew of " the General," as Drake is called throughout Mr Flet cher's narrative.
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DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1577. deavour to survey and measure this ofthe South Atlantic ; and thereupon, globe, almost unmeasurable ? Neither either conceiving a new, or renewing is here that difference to be objected a former, desire of sailing on the which in private possessions is of same in an English bottom, he so value : " Whose land survey you ?" cherished, thenceforward, this his forasmuch as the main ocean is by noble desire and resolution in himself, right the Lord's alone, and by nature that notwithstanding he was hindered left free for all men to deal withal, as for some years, partly by secret envy very sufficient for all men's use, and at home, and partly by public service for his Prince and country abroad large enough for all men's industry. And therefore that valiant enter (whereof Ireland, under Walter Earl prise, accompanied with happy suc of Essex, gives honourable testimony), cess, which that right rare and thrice yet, against the year 1577, by gracious worthy captain, Francis Drake, achiev commission from his sovereign, and ed, in first turning up a furrow about with the help of divers friends ad the whole world, doth not only over venturers, he had fitted himself with match the famous Argonauts, but also five ships : outreacheth in many respects that 1. The Pelican, Admiral, burthen noble mariner, Magellan, and by far one hundred tons, Captain-General surpasseth his crowned victory. But Francis Drake. hereof let posterity judge. It shall 2. The Elizabeth, Vice-Admiral, for the present be deemed a sufficient burthen eighty tons, Captain John discharge of duty to register the true Winter. and whole history of that his voyage, 3. The Marigold, a bark of thirty with as great indifference of affection tons, Captain John Thomas. 4. The Swan, a fly-boat of fifty as a history doth require, and with the plain evidence of truth, as it was tons, Captain John Chester. left recorded by some of the chief and 5. The Christopher, a pinnace of divers other actors in that action. fifteen tons, Captain Thomas Moon. The said Captain Francis Drake, These ships he manned with one having in a former voyage, in the years hundred and sixty-four able and suffi 1572 and 1573(the description whereof cient men, and furnished them also is already imparted to the view of the with such plentiful provision of all world¹), had a sight, and only a sight, things necessary, as so long and dan gerous a voyage did seem to require ; 1 It was written by Philip Nichols, and, amongst the rest, with certain preacher, and subsequently published pinnaces ready framed, but carried by the navigator's nephew, heir, and aboard in pieces, to be new set up in godson, Sir Francis Drake. In the smoother water when occasion served. course of an expedition to intercept a Neither had he omitted to make pro convoy of treasure from Panama to vision also for ornament and delight, Nombre de Dios, Drake was conducted carrying to this purpose with him ex by a friendly native chief to a " great pert musicians, rich furniture (all the and goodly tree " upon the ridge of vessels for his table, yea, many be the hills, from a bower or look-out in longing even to the cook-room, being the top of which both the Atlantic of pure silver), and divers shows of and the Pacific could be seen. When all sorts of curious workmanship, Drake had beheld that sea, " of which whereby the civility and magnificence he had heard such golden reports, he besought Almighty God of His good promise to follow his chief, for two ness to give him life and leave to sail "" years later, crossing the Isthmus with a devoted band, he built a pinnace, once in an English ship in that sea. Calling up his men, he acquainted launched it on the South Sea, and took them, John Oxenham especially, with two Spanish ships ; but being made his resolve, which all approved. Ox prisoner on his return, he was execut enham, indeed, more than kept his ed at Lima.
11 AT MOGADOR. 1577.] about southward of his native country might, amongst coasting from hence all nations whithersoever he should eighteen leagues, we arrived the come, be the more admired. same day at Mogador, the island Being thus appointed, we set sail before named. This Mogador lies under the dom out of the Sound of Plymouth¹ about five o'clock in the afternoon, Novem inion ofthe King of Fesse, ³ in 31° 40′, ber 15, of the same year 1577, and about a mile off from the shore, by running all that night SW. , by the this means making a good harbour morning were come as far as the between the land and it. It is unin Lizard, where meetingthe wind at SW. habited, of about a league in circuit, (quite contrary to our intended not very high land, all overgrown course), we were forced, with our with a kind of shrub breast high, not whole fleet, to put into Falmouth. much unlike our privet, very full of The next day, towards evening, there doves, and therefore much frequented arose a storm, continuing all that of goshawks and such-like birds of night and the day following (especially prey, besides divers sorts of sea-fowl between ten of the clock in the fore very plenty. At the south side of noon and five in the afternoon) with this island are three hollow rocks, such violence, that though it was in under which are great store of very a very good harbour, yet two of our wholesome but very ugly fish to look ships- the Admiral, wherein our to. Lying here about a mile from General himselfwent, and the Marigold the main, a boat was sent to sound -were fain to cut their mainmasts the harbour, and finding it safe, and by board ; and for the repairing of in the very entrance on the north them, and many other damages in side about five or six fathoms ' water the tempest sustained (as soon as the (but at the south side it is very dan weather would give leave), to bear gerous), we brought in our whole back to Plymouth again, where we fleet, December 27, and continued all arrived the thirteenth day after there till the last day of the month, our first departure thence [ November employing our leisure the meanwhile 28]. Whence, having in a few days in setting up a pinnace, one of the supplied all defects, with happier four brought from home in pieces sails we once more put to sea, Decem with us. Our abode here was soon ber 13, 1577. As soon as we were perceived by the inhabitants of the out of sight of land, our General gave country, who coming to the shore, us occasion to conjecture in part by signs and cries made show that whither he intended, both by the they desired to be fetched aboard, to directing of his course, and appoint whom our General sent a boat, into ing the rendezvous, if any should be which two of the chief of the Moors severed from the fleet, to be the were presently received, and one man Island Mogador. And so sailing with of ours, in exchange, left aland, as a favourable winds, the first land23 we pledge for their return. They that had sight of was Cape Caulin in came aboard were right courteously Barbary, December 25, Christmas entertained with a dainty banquet, Day, in the morning. The shore is and such gifts as they seemed to be fair white sand, and the inland most glad of, that they might thereby country very high and mountainous ; understand that this fleet came in it lies in 32° 30′ N. latitude : and so peace and friendship, offering to traffic with them for such commodities 1 To throw the Spaniards off their as their country yielded, to their own guard, the destination of the fleet content. This offer they seemed most was given out as Alexandria ; and to gladly to accept, and promised the give countenance to the report the next day to resort again, with such course first steered was towards the Straits of Gibraltar. 3 Fez, the northern portion of the Empire of Morocco. 2 In lat. 32° N. , long. 10° W.
12
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1577. things as they had, to exchange for | friendship, ifhewould use his country. ours. It is a law amongst them to But in this meantime the General, be drink no wine, notwithstanding by ing aggrieved with this show of injury, stealth it pleaseth them well to have and intending, if he might, to recover it abundantly, as here was experience. or redeem his man, his pinnace being At their return ashore, they quietly ready, landed hiscompany, and march restored the pledge which they had ed somewhat into the country, with stayed ; and thenext day at the hourap out any resistance made against him, pointed returning again, brought with neither would the Moors come nigh them camels, in show laden with our men to deal with them any way; wares to be exchanged for our com wherefore having made provision of modities, and calling for a boat in wood, as also visited an old fort built haste, had one sent them, according sometime by the King of Portugal but to order which our General (being at now ruined by the King of Fesse, this present absent) had given before we departed, December 31, towards his departure to the island. Our Cape Blanco, in such sort that when boat coming to the place of landing, Fry returned he found to his great which was among the rocks, one of grief that the fleet was gone ; but yet, our men, called John Fry, mistrust by the King's favour, he was sent ing no danger nor fearing any harm home into England not long after, in pretended by them, and therefore in an English merchant ship. Shortly after our putting forth of tending to become a pledge, accord ing to the order used the day before, this harbour, we were met with con readily stepped out of the boat and trary winds and foul weather, which ran aland ; which opportunity (being continued till the 4th of January ; yet that which the Moors did look for) we still held on to our course, and they took the advantage of, and not the third day after fell with Cape de only they which were in sight laid Guerre, in 30°, where we lighted on hands on him to carry him away with three Spanish fishermen called caun them, but a number more, who lay ters, whom we took with our new secretly hidden, did forthwith break pinnace, and carried along with us forth from behind the rocks, whither till we came to Rio del Oro, 3 just under they had conveyed themselves, as it the Tropic of Cancer, where with our seems, the night before, forcing our pinnace also we took a carvel. From men to leave the rescuing of him that hence till the fifteenth day we sailed was taken as captive, and with speed on towards Cape Barbas, where the to shift for themselves. Marigold took a carvel more, and so The cause of this violence was a de onward to Cape Blanco till the next sire which the King of Fesse had to day at night. This cape lies in 20° understand what this fleet was, whe 30', showing itself upright like the ther any forerunner of the King of corner of a wall, to them that come Portugal's or no, and what news of towards it from the north, having be certainty the fleet might give him. tween itand Cape Barbas, low, sandy, And therefore, after that he was and very white land all the way. Here brought to the King's presence, and we observed the South Guards, called had reported that they were English the Croziers, 4 9° 30' above the horizon. men, bound to the Straits under the Within the Cape we took one Spanish conduct of General Drake, he was sent ship more riding at anchor (all her back again with a present to his Cap men being fled ashore in the boat save tain, and offer of great courtesy and 2 Cape Ghir, in about latitude 31° ; King Sebastian was then prepar it marks the end of the Atlas moun ing that expedition into Mauritania, tain-chain towards the Atlantic. 3 Rio do Ouro. the calamitous result of which, on the fatal day of Aleazar-Seguer, will after • 4 The constellation of the Southern wards appear. Cross.
13 AMONG THE CAPE VERD ISLANDS. 1578. ] two), which, with all the rest we had And having washed and trimmed formerly taken, we carried into the our ships, and discharged all our the within leagues three harbour, Spanish prizes except one caunter (for which we gave to the owner one of Cape.¹ Here our General determined for our own ships, the Christopher) and certain days to make his abode, both one carvel, formerly bound to St Iago, for that the place afforded plenty of which we caused to accompany us fresh victuals for the present refresh hither, where she also was discharged ; ing of our men, and for their future after six days' abode here, we departed, supply at sea (by reason of the infinite directing our course for the Islands of store of divers sorts of good fish which Cape Verd, where (if anywhere) we are there easy to be taken, even within were of necessity to store our fleet with the harbour, the like whereof is hardly fresh water, for a long time, for that to be found again in any part of the our General from thence intended to world), as also because it served very run a long course, even to the coast fitly for the despatching of some other of Brazil, without touch of land. And businesses that we had. During the now havingthe wind constant at NE. time of our abode at this place, our and ENE. , which is usual about those General, being ashore, was visited by parts, because it blows almost con certain of the people of the country, tinually from the shore, January the who brought down with them a wo 27th we coasted Buenavista, and the man, a Moor (with her babe hanging next day after we came to anchor upon her dry dug, having scarce life under the western part, towards St in herself, much less milk to nourish Iago, of the island Mayo ; it lies in her child), to be sold as a horse, or a 15° high land, saving that the north cow and calf by her side ; in which west part stretches out into the sca sort of merchandise our General would the space of a league, very low ; and not deal. But they had also amber is inhabited by subjects to the King gris, with certain gums of some estima of Portugal. Here landing, in hope tion, which they brought to exchange of traffic with the inhabitants for with our men for water, whereof they water, we found a town, not far from have great want ; so that coming with the water-side, of a great number of their alforges (they are leathern bags desolate and ruinous houses, with a holding liquor) to buy water, they poor naked chapel or oratory, such as cared not at what price they bought small cost and charge might serve it, so they might have it to quench and suffice, being to small purpose, their thirst. A very heavy judgment and as it seems only to make a show, of God upon the coast ! The circum and that a false show, contrary stances whereof considered, our Gene to the nature of a scarecrow, which ral would receive nothing of them for feareth birds from coming nigh ; this water, but freely gave it to them that enticeth such as pass by to 5 haul in came to him, yea, and fed them also and look for commodity, which is ordinarilywith our victuals, in eating not at all to be found there ; though whersof their manner was not only in the inner parts of the island it is uncivis and unsightly to us, but even in great abundance. inhuman and loathsome in itself. For when we found the springs and wells which had been there (as ap Levrier, du Probably Bay the 1 peared) stopped up again, and no which runs up into the land north other water to purpose to be had to wards behind the peninsula-promon serve our need, we marched up to tory that Cape Blanco forms. Spanish, " Alforja, " a saddle-bag. the horizon, and then paid their adora 3 Barbarous, uncivilised. tion prostrate, or kneeling upon a * These people were worshippers of hillock or stone. 5 Accommodation, convenience of the sun ; they never quitted their abodes until he had mounted above ! supply, etc.
14
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
seek some more convenient place to supply our want, or at least to see whether the people would be dealt withal to keep us therein. In this travelling, we found the soil to be very fruitful, having everywhere plenty of fig trees, with fruit upon most of them. But in the valleys and low ground, where little low cot tages were built, were pleasant vine yards planted, bearing then ripe and most pleasant grapes. There were also tall trees, without any branch till the top, which bare the cocoa nuts. There were also great store of certain lower trees, with long and broad , leaves, bearing the fruit which they call plantains in clusters to gether like puddings, a most dainty and wholesome fruit. All of these trees were even laden with fruit, some ready to be eaten, others coming forward, others overripe. Neither can this seem strange, though about the midst of Winter with us, for that the Sun doth never withdraw himself farther off from them, but that with his lively heat he quickeneth and strengtheneth the power of the soil and plant ; neither ever have they any such frost and cold as thereby to lose their green hue and appearance. We found very good water in divers places, but so far off from the road, ¹ that we could not with any reasonable pains enjoy it. The people would by no means be induced to have any con ference with us, but keeping in the most sweet and fruitful valleys among the hills, where their towns and places of dwelling were, gave us leave without interruption to take our plea sure in surveying the island, as they had some reason not to endanger themselves, where they saw they could reap nothing sooner than damage and shame, if they should have offered violence to them which came in peace to do them no wrong at all. This island yieldeth other great commodities, as wonderful herds of goats, infinite store of wild hens, and salt without labour (only the gathering it together excepted),
1 The roadstead.
[1578. which continually in a marvellous quantity is increased upon the sands by the flowing of the sea, and the heat of the sun kerning the same. So that of the increase thereof they keep a continual traffic with their neighbours in the other adjacent islands. We set sail thence the 30th day [of January]. Being departed from Mayo, the next day we passed by the island of St Iago, ten leagues west of Mayo, in the same latitude, inhabited by the Portugals and Moors together. The cause whereof is said to have been in the Portugals themselves, who, con tinuing long time lords within them selves in the said island, used that extreme and unreasonable cruelty over their slaves, that (their bondage being intolerable) they were forced to seek some means to keep themselves and to lighten that so heavy a bur then ; and thereupon chose to fly into the most mountainous parts of the island ; and at last, by continual escapes, increasing to a great number, and growing to a set strength, do now live with that terror to their op pressors, that they now endure no less bondage in mind than the for catoz did before in body ; besides the damage that they daily suffer at their hands in their goods and cattle, to gether with the abridging of their liberties in the use of divers parts of the fruitful soil of the said island, which is very large, marvellous fruit ful (a refuge for all such ships as are bound towards Brazil, Guinea, the East Indies, Binny, 3 Calicut, etc. ), and a place of rare force, if it were not for the cause afore recited, which hath much abated the pride and cooled the courage of that people, who under pretence of traffic and friendship at first making an en trance, ceased not practising upon the poor islanders (the ancient re 2 Granulating, forming into corns or kernels. 3 Apparently Benin, on the west coast of Africa, is meant, though in the list of places it is geographically out of order.
15 THE VOLCANOES OF FOGO AND BRAVA. 1578. ] mainder of the first planters thereof, selves. Herein are engendered great as it may seem from the coast of store of pumice-stones, which being Guinea), until they had excluded in the vehement heat of the fire car them from all government and liber- ried up without the mouth of that ty, yea almost life. On the south- fiery body, fall down, with other gross west ofthis island we took a Portugal, and slimy matter, upon the hill, to laden the best part with wine, and the continual increasing of the same ; much good cloth, both linen and and many times these stones falling woollen, besides other necessaries, down into the sea are taken up and bound for Brazil, with many gentle- used, as we ourselves had experience men and merchants in her. As we by sight of them swimming on the passed bywith ourfleet, insight of three water. The rest of the island is fruit of their towns, they seemed veryjoyful ful, notwithstanding, and is inhabited that we touched not with their coast ; by Portugals, who live very commo and seeing us depart peaceably, in diously therein, as in the other islands honour of our fleet and General, or thereabout. rather to signify that they were pro Upon the south side, about two vided for an assault, shot off two leagues off this Island of Burning, great pieces into the sea, which were lieth a most sweet and pleasant answered by one given them again island ; the trees thereof are always from us. green and fair to look on, the soil South-west from St Iago, in 14° almost set full of trees, in respect 2 30', about twelve leagues distant, yet whereof it is named the Brave Island, by reason of the height seeming not being a storehouse of many fruits and above three leagues, lies another 99 commodities, as figs always ripe, island, called of the Portugals " Fogo, ' cocoas, plantains, oranges, lemons, -the burning island, or fiery furnace cotton, etc. From the banks into -in which rises a steep upright hill, the sea do run in many places the by conjecture at least six leagues, or silver streams of sweet and whole eighteen English miles, from the some water, which with boats or upper part of the water ; within the pinnaces may easily be taken in. bowels whereof is a consuming fire, But there is no convenient place or maintained by sulphury matters, road for ships, neither any anchoring seeming to be of a marvellous depth, at all. For after long trial, and and also very wide. The fire showeth often casting of leads, there could no itself but four times in an hour, at ground be had at any hand, neither which times it breaketh out with was it ever known, as is reported, such violence and force, and in such that any line would fetch ground in main abundance, that besides that it any place about that island. So that giveth light like the moon a great the top of Fogo burneth not so high way off, it seemeth that it would not in the air, but the root of Brava (so stay till it touch the heavens them is the island called) is buried and quenched as low in the seas. The 1 Command of this prize was given only inhabitant of this island is a to Thomas Doughty, who afterwards hermit, as we suppose, for we found figures so prominently in the narra no other houses but one, built as it tive ; but being found appropriating seemed for such a purpose ; and he to his own use the propitiatory pre was so delighted in his solitary living, sents made by the prisoners, he was that he would by no means abide our superseded by Thomas Drake, brother coming, but fled, leaving behind him of the Admiral. The pilot of the the relics of his false worship ; to wit, " Portugal " ship, Nuno da Silva-an a cross with a crucifix, an altar with 3 expert mariner and well acquainted his superaltar, and certain other with the coast of Brazil- was de idols of wood of rude workmanship. tained by Drake, and afterwards liberated at Cuatulco. 2 Ilha Brava , s Ite.
16 DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1578. Here we dismissed the Portugals | this we could not but take notice of, taken near St Iago, and gave them that whereas we were but badly fur in exchange of their old ship our nished ( our case considered) of fresh new pinnace built at Mogador, with water, having never at all watered, to wine, bread, and fish for their pro any purpose, or that we could say we vision, and so sent them away, Feb were much the better for it, from our first setting forth out of England_till ruary 1. Having thus visited, as is declared, this time, nor meeting with any place the Islands of Cape Verd, and pro wherewemight convenientlywater, till vided fresh water as we could, the our coming to the River of Plate, long 2d of February we departed thence, after-continually, after once we were directing our course towards the come within four degrees of the Line Straits, so to pass into the South on this side, viz. , after February 10, Sea ; in which course we sailed sixty and till we were past the Line as many three days without sight of land degrees towards the south, viz. , till (passing the Line Equinoctial the February 27, there was no one day 17th day of the same month) till we went over us but we received some fell with the coast of Brazil, the rain, whereby our want of water was 5th of April following. During much supplied. This also was observ which long passage on the vast gulf, able, that of our whole fleet, being where nothing but sea beneath us now six in number, notwithstanding and air above us was to be seen, as the uncouthness of the way, and our eyes did behold the wonderful whatever other difficulties, by weather works of God in His creatures, which or otherwise, we met withal, not any He hath made innumerable both one, in all this space, lost company small and great beasts, in the great of the rest ; except only our Portugal and wide seas so did our mouths prize for one day, who, March 28, taste, and our natures feed on, the was severed from us, but the day fol goodness thereof in such fulness at lowing, March 29, she found us again, all times, and in every place, as if to both her own and our no little He commanded and enjoined the comfort. She had in her twenty most profitable and glorious works of eight of our men, and the best part His hands to wait upon us, not only of all our provision for drink ; her for the relief of our necessities, but short absence caused much doubting also to give us delight in the contem and sorrow in the whole company, plation of His excellence, in behold neither could she then have been ing the variety and order of His pro finally lost without the overthrow of vidence, with a particular taste of the whole voyage. His fatherly care over us all the while. Among the many strange creatures The truth is, we often met with ad which we saw, we took heedful notice verse winds, unwelcome storms, and, of one, as strange as any, to wit, the to us at that time, less welcome flying fish, a fish of the bigness and calms ; and being as it were in the proportion of a reasonable or middle bosom of the burning zone, we felt sort of pilchards ; he hath fins, ofthe the effects of sweltering heat, not length of his whole body, from the without the affrights of flashing bulk to the top of the tail, bearing lightnings, and terrifyings of often the form and supplying the like use claps of thunder ; yet still with the to him that wings do to other crea admixture of many comforts. For tures. By the help of these fins, when he is chased of the Bonits, or 1 Except the pilot Nuna da Silva, great mackerel (whom the Aurata or who willingly stayed with Drake dolphin likewise pursueth), and hath when he learned that the voyage was not strength to escape by swimming to be prosecuted into Mare del Zur, any longer, he lifteth up himself or the South Sea. * Of Magellan. Strangeness, unknown character.
17 1578. ] OFF THE COAST OF BRAZIL. above the water, and flieth a pretty | 30° 30' towards the Pole Antarctic, ¹ height, sometimes lighting into boats where the land is low near the sea, or barks as they sail along. The but much higher within the country quills of their wings are so proportion having in depth not above twelve able, and finely set together, with a fathoms three leagues off from the most thin and dainty film, that they shore ; and being descried by the in might seem to serve for a much longer habitants we saw great and huge fires and higher flight ; but the dryness made by them in sundry places. of them is such, after some ten or Which order of making fires, though twelve strokes, that he must needs it be universal as well among Christ into the water again to moisten them, ians as heathens, yet it is not likely which else would grow stiff and unfit that many use it to that end which for motion. The increase of this little the Brazilians do : to wit, for a sacri and wonderful creature is in a man fice to devils, whereas they intermix ner infinite, the fry whereof lies upon many and divers ceremonies of con the upper part of the waters, in the jugations, casting up great heaps of heat of the sun, as dust upon the face sand, to this end, that if any ships of the earth ; which being in bigness shall go about to stay upon their of a wheat straw, and in length an coasts, their ministering spirits may inch more or less, do continually make wreck of them, whereof the exercise themselves in both their Portugals by the loss of divers of faculties of nature ; wherein, if the their ships have had often experi Lord had not made them expert in ence. In the reports of Magellan's voyage, deed, their generation could not have continued, being so desired a prey to it is said that this people pray to no many which greedily hunt after them, manner of thing, but live only ac forcing them to escape in the air by cording to the instinct of nature ; flight when they cannot in the waters which if it were true, there should live in safety. Neither are they al seem to be a wonderful altera ways free, or without danger, in their tion in them since that time, being flying ; but as they escape one evil by fallen from a simple and natural crea refusing the waters, so they sometimes ture to make gods of devils. But I fall into as great a mischief by mount am ofthe mind that it was with them ing up into the air, and that by means then as now it is, only they lacked of a great and ravening fowl, named then the like occasion to put it in of some a Don or Spurkite, who feed practice which now they have ; for ing chiefly on such fish as he can come thenthey lived as a free people among at by advantage, in their swimming themselves, but now are in most in the brim of the waters, or leaping miserable bondage and slavery, both above the same, presently seizes upon in body, goods, wife, and children, them with great violence, making and life itself, to the Portugals, whose great havoc, especially among these hard and most cruel dealings against flying fishes, though with small pro them force them to fly into the more fit to himself. There is another sort unfruitful parts of their own land, of fish which likewise flies in the air, rather there to starve, or at least live . named a Cuttill ; it is the same whose miserably, with liberty, than to abide bones the goldsmiths commonly use, such intolerable bondage as they lay or at least not unlike that sort, a upon them ; using the aforesaid multitude of which have at one time practices with devils both for a in their flight fallen into our ships revenge against their oppressors, and also for a defence, that they have no among our men. Passing thus, in beholding the further entrance into the country. most excellent works of the Eternal And supposing indeed that no others God upon the seas, as if we had been 1 That is, in latitude South of the in a garden of pleasure, April 5 we fell in with the coast of Brazil, in | Line. B
18
[1578. DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. had used travel by sea in ships, but | Islands of Cape Verd, that the next their enemies only, they therefore rendezvous, both for the re-collecting used the same at our coming ; not of our navy if it should be dispersed, withstanding, our God made their as also for watering and the like, devilish intent of none effect ; for should be the River of Plate ; whether albeit there lacked not, within the we were all to repair with all the con space of our falling with this coast, venient speed that could be made, forcible storms and tempests, yet did and to stay one for another if it we sustain no damage, but only the should happen that we could not separating of our ships out of sight arrive there all together ; and the for a few days. Here our General effect we found answerable to our ex would have gone ashore, but we could pectations, for here our severed ship find no harbour in many leagues. (as hath been declared)found us again, And therefore coasting along the land and here we found those other helps towards the south, April 7, we had a also so much desired. The country violent storm for the space of three hereabout is of a tenperate and most hours, with thunder, lightning, and sweet air, very fair and pleasant to rain in great abundance, accompanied behold, and, besides the exceeding with a vehement south wind directly fruitfulness of the soil, it is stored against us, which caused a separation with plenty of large and mighty deer. of the Christopher (the caunter which Notwithstanding that in this first bay we took at Cape Blanco in exchange we found sweet and wholesome water, for the Christopher, whose name she even at pleasure, yet the same day, thenceforward bore) from the rest of after the arrival of the caunter, we the fleet. After this we kept on our removed some twelve leagues farther course, sometimes to the seaward, up into another, where we found a sometimes toward the shore, but al long rock, or rather island of rocks, ways southward, as near as we could, not far from the main, making a especially till April 14, in the morning, at which commodious harbour, time we passed by Cape St Mary, which against a southerly wind ; under lies in 35°, near the mouth of the them we anchored and rode till the River of Plate ; and running within 20th day at night, in which mean it about six or seven leagues, along space we killed divers seals, or sea by the main, we came to anchor in a wolves as the Spaniard calls them, bay under another cape, which our which resorted to these rocks in great General afterwards called Cape Joy, abundance. They are good meat, by reason that the second day after and were an acceptable food to us for our anchoring here the Christopher, the present and a good supply of our Hence, whom we had lost in the former storm, provision for the future. April 20, we weighed again and sailed came to us again. Among other cares which our Gene yet farther up into the river, even ral took in this action, ¹ next the till we found but three fathoms' main care of effecting the voyage it depth, and that we rode with our self, these were the principal and ships in fresh water ; but we stayed chiefly subordinate : to keep our not there, nor in any other place of whole fleet, as near as possibly we the river, because that the winds being could, together ; to get fresh water, strong, the shoals many, and no safe which is of continual use ; and to re harbour found, we could not without fresh our men, wearied with long toils ourgreat danger so havedone. Hauling at sea, as oft as we should find any therefore to seaward again, the 27th opportunity of effecting the same. of the same month, after that we had And for these causes it was deter spent a just fortnight in the river to mined, and public notice thereof the great comfort of the whole fleet, given at our departure from the we passed by the south side thereof into the main. The land here lies SW., and NNE., with shoal water 1 Enterprise, expedition.
19 SEVERE STORMS. 1578.] some three or four leagues off into of these dangers to another's pains, the sea ; it is about 36° 20′ and some but rather to his own experience, in what better S. latitude. searching out and sounding of them. At our very first coming forth to A boat being therefore hoisted forth, sea again, to wit, the same night, our himself with some others the next fly-boat, the Swan, lost company of morning, May 13, rowed into the us : whereupon, though our General bay ; and being now very nigh the doubted nothing of her happy coming shore, one of the men of the country forward again to the rest of the fleet, showed himself unto him, seeming yet because it was grievous to have very pleasant, singing and dancing, such often losses, and that it was his after the noise of a rattle which he duty as much as in him lay to prevent shook in his hand, expecting earnestly all inconveniences besides that might his landing. grow, he determined to reduce the But there was suddenly so great an number of his ships, thereby to draw alteration in the weather, into a thick his men into less room, that both the and misty fog, together with an ex fewer ships might the better keep treme storm and tempest, that our company, and that they might also General, being now three leagues from be the better appointed with new and his ship, thought it better to return fresh supplies of provisions and men, than either to land or make any other one to ease the burthen of another : stay ; and yet the fog thickened so especially for that he saw the coast mightily, that the sight of the ships (it drawing now towards winter here) was bereft them ; and if Captain to be subject to many and grievous Thomas, upon the abundance of his storms. And therefore he continued love and service to his General, had on his course to find out a convenient not adventured with his ship to enter harbour for that use ; searching all the bay in this perplexity, where good the coast from 36° to 47°, as diligently advice would not suffer our ships to as contrary winds and sundry storms bear in while the winds were more would permit, and yet found none for tolerable and the air clearer, we had the purpose. And in the meantime sustained some great loss, or our -viz., May 8, by another storm General had been further endangered. the caunter also was once more Who was nowquickly received aboard severed from us. May 12 we had his ship ; out of which, being within sight of land in 47°, where we were the bay, they let fall an anchor, and forced to come to anchor in such road rode there (God be praised) in safety ; as we could find for the time. Never but our other ships, riding without, theless our General named the place were so oppressed with the extremity Cape Hope ; by reason of a bay dis of the storm, that they were forced to covered within the headland, which run off to sea for their own safeguard, seemed to promise a good and com being in good hope only ofthe success modious harbour. But by reason of of the ship which was gone in to re many rocks lying off from the place, lieve our Ĝeneral. Before this storm we durst not adventure with our ships arose, our caunter, formerly lost, was into it without good and perfect dis come in the same day unto us in the covery beforehand made. Our Gene road, but was put to sea again, the ral, especially in matters of moment, same evening, with the rest of the was never wont to rely on other men's fleet. The next day, May 14, the weather care, how trusty or skilful soever they might seem to be ; but always con being fair and the winds moderate, but temning danger, and refusing no toil, the fleet out of sight, our General he was wont himself to be one, who determined to go ashore, to this end, soever was a second, at every turn that he might, by making of fires, where courage, skill, or industry, 1 Captain Thomas's ship, the Mari was to be employed ; neither would he at this time entrust the discovery gold.
20 DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1578. give signs to the dispersed ships to in that we had done them no harm. come together again into that road ; But because this place was no fit or whereby at last they were all as convenient harbour for us to do our sembled, excepting the Swan, lost necessary business, neither yet to long time before, and excepting our make much provision of such things Portugal prize, called the Mary, which, as we wanted, as water, wood, and weighing in this last storm the night the like, we departed thence the 15th before, had now parted company, and of May. was not found again in a long time At our departure hence, we held after. In this place (the people being our course South and by West, and belike removed up into the country, made about nine leagues in twenty for fear of our coming) we found near four hours, bearing very little sail, unto the rocks, in houses made for that our fleet might the easier get up that purpose, as also in divers other with us, which by reason of contrary places, great store of ostriches, at winds were cast asternof us. In least to the number of fifty, with much 47° 30' we found a bay which was other fowl, some dried and some in fair, safe, and beneficial to us, very drying, for their provision, as it necessary for our use, into which we seemed, to carry with them to the hauled, and anchored May 17 ; and place of their dwellings. The os the next day we came further into the triches' thighs were in bigness equal same bay, where we cast anchor, and to reasonable legs of mutton. They made our abode full fifteen days. The cannot fly at all ; but they run so very first day of our arrival here, our swiftly, and take so long strides, that General having set things in some it is not possible for a man in running order, for the despatch of our neces by any means to take them, neither sary business, being most careful for yet to come so nigh them as to have his two ships which were wanting, a shot at them either with bow or sent forth to the southward Captain piece ; whereof our men had often Winter in the Elizabeth, Vice- ad proof on other parts of the coast, for miral, himself in the Admiral going all the country is full of them. We forth northward into the sea, to see if found there the tools or instruments happily they might meet with either which the people use in taking them. of them ; at which time, by the good Among other means they use in be providence of God, he himself met traying these ostriches, they have a with the Swan, formerly lost at our great and large plume of feathers, or departure, from the River of Plate, derly compact together upon the end and brought her into the same har of a staff, in the forepart bearing the bour the same day ; where being after likeness of the head, neck, and bulk wards unladen and discharged of he of an ostrich, and in the hinder part freight, she was cast off, and, her spreading out very large, sufficient iron-work and other necessaries being (being held before him) to screen the saved for the better provision of the most part ofthe body of a man. With rest, ofthe remainder was made fire this, it seemeth, they stalk, driving wood and other implements which we them into some strait or neck of wanted. But all this while of the land close to the seaside, where spread other ship, which we lost so lately in ing long and strong nets, with their our extremity, we could have no dogs which they have in readiness at news. all times, they overthrow them, and While we were thus employed, after make a common quarry. The country certain days of our stay in this place, is very pleasant, and seemeth to be a being on shore in an island nigh unto fruitful soil. Being afterwards driven the main, where at low-water was free to fall with this place again, we had passage on foot from the one to the great acquaintance and familiarity other, the people of the country did with the people, who rejoiced greatly show themselves unto us with leap in our coming, and in our friendship, ing, dancing, and holding up their
21 BARBAROUS CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES. hands, and making outcries after peace. But when they perceived that their manner ; but, being then high we ascended the hill apace, and drew water, we could not g over to them nigh unto them, they seemed very on foot. Wherefore the General fearful of our coming. Wherefore caused immediately a boat to be in our General, not willing to give them readiness, and sent unto them such any way any occasion to mislike or be things as he thought would delight discomfited, retired his company ; them, as knives, bells, bugles, etc. whereby they were so allured, and did Whereupon they, being assembled so therein confirm themselves of us together upon a hill, half an English that we were no enemies, neither mile from the water-side, sent down meant them harm, that without all two of their company, running one fear divers came down with all speed after the other with a great pace, after us, presently entering into traffic traversing their ground, as it seemed with our men. Notwithstanding, after the manner of their wars, by de they would receive nothing at our grees descending towards the water's hands, but the same must first be side very swiftly. Notwithstanding, cast upon the ground, this " for using 66 Zussus, exchange, drawing nigh unto it, they made a word, stay, refusing to come near our men : " Toytt," to cast upon the ground. which our men perceiving, sent such And if they misliked anything, they things as they had, tied with a string cried " Coróh ! Coróh ! " speaking upon a rod, and stuck the same up a the same with rattling in the throat. reasonable distance from them, where The wares we received from them they might see it. And as soon as were arrows of reeds, feathers, and our men were departed from the place, such bones as are afore described. they came and took those things, This people go naked, except a skin leaving instead of them, as in recom of fur, which they cast about their pense, such feathers as they use to shoulders when they sit or lie in the wear about their heads, with a bone cold ; but having anything to do, as made in manner of a toothpick, going or any other labour, they use carved round about the top, and it as a girdle about their loins. They in length about six inches, being wear their hair very long ; but lest it very smoothly burnished. Where might trouble them in their travel, upon our General, with divers of his they knit it up with a roll of ostrich gentlemen and company, at low water, feathers, using the same rolls and went over to them to the main. hair together for a quiver for their Against his coming they remained arrows, and for a store- house, in still upon the hill, and set themselves which they carry the most things in a rank, one by one, appointing one which they carry about them. Some of their company to run before them of them, within these rolls, stick on from the one end of the rank to the either side of their heads (for a sign other, and so back again, continually of honour in their persons) a large and East and West, with holding up his and plain feather, showing like horns hands over his head, and yielding afar off; so that such a head upon a forward his body in his running to naked body-if devils do appear with wards the rising and setting of the horns--might very nigh resemble Sun, and, at every second or third devils. Their whole bravery and set turn at the most, erected his body ting out themselves standeth¹ in against the midst of the rank of the painting their bodies with_divers people, lifting himself vaulting-wise colours, and such works as they can from the ground towards the Moon, devise. Some wash 2 their faces with being then over our heads : signify sulphur, or some such like substance ; ing thereby, as we conceived, that 1 Consists. they called the Sun and Moon (which 2 they serve for gods) to witness that Dye their faces, " or give them a they meant nothing towards us but wash, " to use a modern phrase.
1578. ]
22
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DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1578. some paint their whole bodies black, with such a people as they ought leaving only their necks before and rather to serve than offer any wrong behind white, much like our damsels or injury unto ; presuming that they that wear their squares,¹ their necks might be bold with our General as and breasts naked. Some paint one with a father, and with us as brethren shoulder black, another white ; and and their nearest friends ; neither their sides and legs interchangeably, seemed their love less towards us. with the same colours, one still con One of the chiefest among them trary to the other. The black part having on a time received a cap off hath set upon it white Moons, and the General's head, which he did the white part black Suns, being the daily wear, removing himself but a marks and characters of their gods, little from us, with an arrow pierced as is before 2noted. They have some his leg deeply, causing the blood to commodity by painting of their stream out upon the ground : signify bodies, for the which cause they use ing thereby how unfeignedly he loved it so generally ; and that I gather to him, and giving therein a covenant be, the defence it yieldeth against the of peace. The number of men which piercing and nipping cold. For the did here frequent our company was colours being close laid on upon their about fifty persons. Within , in the skin, or rather in their flesh, as by southernmost part of this bay, there continual renewing of these juices is a river of fresh water, with a which are laid on, soaked into the great many profitable islands ; of inner part thereof, doth fill up the which some have always such store of pores so close that no air or cold seals, or sea-wolves, as were able to can enter, or make them once to maintain a huge army of men. Other shrink. islands, being many and great, are so They have clean, comely, and replenished with birds and fowl , as if there were no other victuals : a strong bodies ; they are swift of foot, and seem very active. Neither is wonderful multitude of people might anything more lamentable, in my be nourished by the increase of them judgment, than that so goodly a for many posterities. Of these we people, and so lively creatures of God , killed some with shot, and some with should be ignorant of the true and staves, and took some with our living God. And so much the more hands, from men's heads and shoul is this to be lamented, by how much ders, upon which they lighted. We they are more tractable, and easy to could not perceive that the people of be brought to the sheepfold of Christ ; the country had any sort of boat or having, in truth, a land sufficient to canoe to come to these islands. Their recompense any Christian Prince in own provisions which they ate, for the world for the whole travail and ought we could perceive, was com labour, cost and charges, bestowed in monly raw for we should sometimes their behalf : with a wonderful en find the remnants of seals, all bloody, larging of a kingdom, besides the which theyhad gnawn with theirteeth glory of God by increasing the Church like dogs. They go all of them armed of Christ. It is wonderful to hear, with a short bow, of about an ell in being never known to Christians be length, in their hands, with arrows fore this time, how familiar they of reeds, and headed with a flint stone, became in short space with us ; very cunningly cut and fastened . thinking themselves to be joined This bay, by reason of the plenty of seals therein found, insomuch that 1 Square-bodied dresses ; the repro we killed two hundred in the space of duction of which is only one of the one hour, we called Seal Bay. And signs of the fatigue of fashionable in having now made sufficient provision ventions which have fallen to the 3 Or, possibly, by misreading of the period. present 2 text, 66 stones. They gain some convenience.
23 IN PORT ST JULIAN. 1578.] of victuals and other necessaries, as company as in her absence, our Gene also happilyfinished all our businesses, ral thought good to bear into Port St on June 3 we set sail from thence ; Julian with his fleet, because it was so and coasting along towards the Pole nigh at hand, and so convenient a Antarctic, on June 12 we fell in with place ; intending there to refresh his a little bay, in which we anchored wearied men, and cherish them who for the space of two days, spent in had in their absence tasted such the discharging of our caunter, the bitterness of discomfort, besides the Christopher, which we here laid up. want of many things which they sus The 14th day we weighed again, tained. and kept on our course southward till Thus the next day, the 20th of the 17th, and then cast anchor in an June, we entered Port St Julian, other bay, in 50° 20′, lacking but little which stands in 49° 30′, and has on more than one degree of the mouth of the south side of the harbour peaked the Straits through which lay our so rocks like towers, and within the much desired passage into the South harbour many islands, which you Sea. Here our General, on good advice, may ride hard aboard of, but in going determined to alter his course, and in you must borrow of the north turn his stern to the northward shore. Being now come to anchor, again, if haply God would grant that and all things fitted and made safe we might find our ship¹ and friends aboard, our General with certain of whom we lost in the great storm, as his company - viz. , Thomas Drake is before said. Forasmuch as, if we his brother, John Thomas, Robert should enter the Straits without them Winter, Oliver the master-gunner, in our company, it must needs go John Brewer, and Thomas Hood -on hard with them ; and we also in the June 22 rowed farther in with a boat mean time, as well by their absence to find out someconvenientplace which as by the uncertainty of their state, might yield us fresh water, during must needs receive no small discom the time of our abode there, and fur fort. And therefore, on June 18 in nish us with supply for provision to the morning, putting to sea again, take to sea with us at our departure ; with hearty and often prayers we which work, as it was of great_neces joined watchful industry to serve sity, and therefore carefully to be per God's good providence, and held on formed, so did not he think himself our purpose to run back towards the discharged of his duty if he himself Line into the same height 2 in which bestowed not the first travail therein, they were first dissevered from us. as his use was at all times in all other The 19th day of June, towards night, things belonging to the relieving of having sailed within a few leagues of our wants and the maintenance of our Port St Julian, we had our ship in good estate, by the supply of what sight, for which we gave God thanks was : needful. Presently upon his with most joyful minds. And foras landing he was visited by two of the much as the ship was far out of order, inhabitants of the place, whom Ma and very leaky, by reason of ex gellan named39" Patagous, " or rather tremity of weather which she had " Pentagours,' from their huge endured, as well before her losing stature and strength proportionable. These, as they seemed greatly to re 1 The " Portugal prize, " the Mary ; joice at his arrival, so did they show which had on board most or all of themselves very familiar, receiving at their provision of liquor for the our General's hands whatsoever he gave them, and taking great pleasure voyage. 2 Latitude ; the word is frequently in seeing Mr Oliver, themaster-gunner used in this and in other old voyagers' of the Admiral, shoot an English narrations, to signify the amount of arrow-trying with him to shoot at ascendant, on one side or the other, length, but came nothing near him. towards the plane of the Equator. Not long after came one more of
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1578. 24 the same cast, but of a sourer sort ; | landed, escaped with life. He there for he, misliking of the familiarity fore, giving order that no man should which his fellows had used, seemed keep any certain ground, but shift very angry with them, and strove from place to place, encroaching still earnestly to withdraw them, and to upon the enemy, using their targets turn them to become our enemies. and other weapons for the defence of Which our General, with his men, their bodies, and that they should not suspecting in them, used them as break so many arrows as by any before, and one Mr Robert Winter, means they could come by, being thinking of pleasure to shoot an shot at them, wherein he himself was arrow at length, as Mr Oliver had very diligent, and careful also in call done before, that he who came lasting upon them, knowing that their also might have a sight thereof, the arrows being once spent, they should string of his bow broke ; which, as have these enemies at their devotion before it was a terror unto them, so and pleasure, to kill or save ; and now, broken, it gave them great en this order being accordingly taken, couragement and boldness, and, as himself, I say, with a good courage they thought, great advantage in and trust in the true and living God, their treacherous intent and purpose, taking and shooting off the same not imagining that our calivers, ¹ piece which the Gunner could not swords, and targets, were any muni make to take fire, despatched the tion or weapon of war. In which first beginner of the quarrel, the same persuasion as the General and his man who slew our Master Gunner. company were quietly, without any For the pieces being charged with a suspicion of evil, going down towards bullet and hail-shot, and well aimed , the boat-they suddenly, being pre tore out his belly and guts, with pared and gotten by stealth behind great torment, as it seemed by his them, shot their arrows, and chiefly cry, which was so hideous and horri at him which had the bow, not suffer ble a roar, as if ten bulls had joined ing him to string the same again, together in roaring ; wherewith the which he was about to have done, as courage of his partners was so abated, well as he could ; but being wounded and their hearts appalled, that not in the shoulder at the first shot, and withstanding divers of their fellows turning about, was sped by an arrow, and countrymen appeared out of the which pierced his lungs, yet he fell woods on each side, yet they were not. But the Master Gunner, being glad, by flying away, to save them ready to shoot off his caliver, which selves, quietly suffering our men took not fire in levelling thereof, was either to depart or stay. Our General presently slain outright. In this ex chose rather to depart, than to take tremity, if our General had not been farther revenge of them, which now both expert in such affairs, able to he might, by reason of his wounded judge and to give present direction in man, whom for many good parts he the danger thereof, and had not val loved dearly, and therefore would iantly thrust himself into the dance rather have saved him than slain a against these monsters, there had no hundred enemies ; but being past re one of our men, that there were covery, he died the second day after his being brought on board 1 The same word as " the modern That night, our Master Gunner'sagain. body calibre ; " both, by old philologists, being left ashore, for the speedier derived from " equilibrium. " Caliver, bringing of the other aboard, our strictly, not merely means a gun, but General himself the next day, with the shot, of whatever weight, which his boat well-appointed, returned to the gun propels. the shore to find it likewise ; which 2 That is, though he aimed his they found lying where it was left, piece, it missed fire, or flashed in the but strippedof his uppermost gar pall. ment, and having an English arrow
25 SYMPTOMS OF A PLOT DISCOVERED. 1578. ] stuck in his right eye. Both of these and grew another mischief, wrought dead bodies were laid together in one and contrived closely amongst our grave, with such reverence as was fit selves ; as great, yea, far greater, and for the earthen tabernacles of immor offarmore grievous consequence, than tal souls, and with such commendable the former, but that it was by God's ceremonies as belong unto soldiers of providence detected and prevented in worth in time of war, which they time ; which else had extended itself not only to the violent shedding of most truly and rightfully deserved. Magellan was not altogether de innocent blood by murdering our ceived in naming them Giants, for General, and such others as were most they generally differ from the com firm and faithful to him, but also to mon sort of men, both in stature, the final overthrow ofthe whole action bigness, and strength of body, as also intended, and to divers other most in the hideousness of their voice ; dangerous effects.1 These plots had but yet they are nothing so monstrous been laid before the voyage began, in or giantlike as they were reported, England : the very model of them there being some Englishmen as tall was showed and declared to our Gen as the highest of any that we did see : eral in his garden at Plymouth before but peradventure the Spaniards did his setting sail : which yet he either not think that ever any Englishman would not credit as true or likely of would come thither to reprove them, a person whom he loved so dearly, and thereupon might presume the and was persuaded of to love him," more boldly to lie ; the name " Pen likewise unfeignedly ; or thought by tagones," Five Cubits, " viz., seven love and benefits to remedy it, if there feet and a half, describing the full were any evil purposes conceived height, if not somewhat more, of the against him. And therefore he did highest of them . But this is certain, not only continue to this suspected that the Spanish cruelties there used and accused person, all countenance, have made them more monstrous in credit, and courtesies which he was mind and manners than they are in wont to show and give him ; but in body, and more inhospitable to deal creased them, using him in a manner with any strangers that shall come as another himself ; giving him the hereafter. For the loss of their second place in all companies, in his friends (the remembrance whereof is presence ; leaving in his hand the assigned and conveyed over from one state, as it were, of his own person in generation to another among their his absence ; imparting unto him all posterity) breedeth an old grudge, his counsels ; allowing him free liberty which will not easily be forgotten in all things that were reasonable ; with so quarrelsome and revengeful and bearing often, at his hands great a people. Notwithstanding, the ter infirmities : yea, despising that any ror which they had conceived of us private inquiry should break so firm did henceforward so quench their a friendship as he meant towards him. heat, and take down their edge, that And therefore was he oftentimes not they bothforgot revenge, and, seeming 1 Without entering here on the by their countenance to repent them of the wrong they had offered us that much-debated question as to Drake's meant them no harm, suffered us to conduct in the trial and execution of do what we would the whole space of Doughty-which has been well called two months after this, without any the most dubious act in the life of the interruption of molestation by them ; great navigator-it may be briefly said, and it may be perhaps a means to that the balance both oftestimony and breed a peace in that people towards of character is decidedly in Drake's all that may, hereafter this, come that favour. The matter has been more way. fully handled in the Introduction. 2 That is, and who he was peṛ• To this evil, thus received at the bands of infidels, there was adjoined ( suaded loved him. "
26
DRAKE' VOYAG ROUND THE WORLD . [1578. E S a little offended even with those who, of the principal actor also, who was upon conscience of their duty, and not a stranger or ill-willer, but a dear knowledge that otherwise they should and true friend unto him ; and there indeed offend, disclosed from time to fore in a great assembly openly be time unto him how the fire increased sought them, in whose hands justice that threatened his own together with rested, to take some order for him, the destruction of the whole action.¹ that he might not be compelled to But at length, perceiving that his enforce his own hands against his lenity of favours did little good, in own bowels, or otherwise to become that the heat of ambition was not yet his own executioner. The admiration 5 and astonishment allayed, nor could be quenched, as it seemed, but by blood ; and that the hereat in all the hearers, even those manifold practices 2 grew daily more who were his nearest friends and and more, even to extremities ; he most affected him, was great, yea, in thought it high time to call these those who for many benefits received practices into question before it were from him had good cause to love him ; too late to call any question of them but yet the General was most of all into hearing. And therefore setting distracted, and therefore withdrew good watch over him, and assembling himself, as not able to conceal his all his captains and gentlemen of his tender affection, requiring them that company together, he propounded to had heard the whole matter to give them the good parts which were in their judgments as they would another the gentleman, the great good will and day answer it unto their Prince and inward affection, more than brotherly unto Almighty God, judge of all the which he had ever since his first ac earth. Therefore they all, above quaintance borne him, not omitting forty in number, the chiefest of place the respect which was had of him and judgment in the whole fleet, after among no mean personages in Eng they had discussed diversly of the land ; and afterwards delivered the case, and had alleged whatsoever letters which were written to him, came in their minds, or could be there with the particulars from time to produced by any of his other friends, time which had been observed, not with their own hands, under seal, ad so much by himself as by his good judged that " He had deserved death : friends ; not only at sea, but even in and that it stood by no means with Plymouth ; not bare words, but writ their safety to let him live and ings ; not writings alone, but actions, therefore they remitted the matter tending to the overthrow of the ser thereof, with the rest of the circum vice in hand, and making away of stances, to the General. " This judg his 3 person. Proofs were required ment, and as it were assize, was held and alleged, so many and so evident, aloud, in one of the islands of the that the gentleman himself, stricken port, which afterwards, in memory with remorse of his inconsiderate and hereof, was called the Island of " True unkind dealing, acknowledged him Justice and Judgment." self to have deserved death, yea many Now after this verdict was thus re deaths ; for that he conspired, not turned unto our General (unto whom, only the overthrow of the action, but for his company, Her Majesty before his departure had committed her 1 That threatened his own destruc sword, to use for his safety, with this tion, along with the ruin of the whole word : " We do account that he which striketh at thee, Drake, striketh at enterprise. 2 " Practice, " in the time of Drake, | us ”) , he called for the guilty party, was used generally in an ill sense A curious and literal description and is thus a rare specimen of a word which has improved, or at least grown of the Japanese " hari-kari,' or less tart, by keeping. "happy despatch. " 3 The Admiral's. 5 Wonder.
THE EXECUTION OF 1578.] and caused to be read unto him the several verdicts which were written and pronounced of him. Which being acknowledged for the most part (for none had given heavier sentence against him than he had given against himself), our General proposed unto him this choice : " Whether he would take, to be executed in this island ? or to be set a-land on the main ? or return into England, there to answer his deed before the Lords of Her Majesty's Council ? He most humbly thanked the General for his clemency, extended towards him in such ample sort ; and craving some respite to consult thereon, and so make his choice advisedly, the next day he re turned this answer : " That albeit he had yielded in his heart to entertain so great a sin, whereof now he was justly condemned ; yet he had a care, and that excelling all other cares, to die a Christian man, that whatsoever did become of his clay body, he might yet remain assured of an eternal in heritance in a far better life. This he feared, if he should be set a-land among Infidels, how he should be able to maintain this assurance ; feeling, in his own frailty, how mighty the contagion is of lewd custom." And therefore he besought the General most earnestly, " That he would yet have a care and regard of his soul, and never jeopard it amongst heathen and savage Infidels. If he should return into England, he must first have a ship, and men to conduct it, besides sufficient victuals ; two of which, although they were had, yet for the third, he thought that no man would accompany him, in so bad a message, to so vile an issue, from so honourable a service. But if that there were who could in duce their minds to return with him, yet the very shame of the return would be as death, or grievouser, were that possible because he should be so long a-dying, and die so often. Therefore he professed, that with all his heart he did embrace the first branch of the General's proffer, de siring only this favour, that they might receive the Holy Communion
27 THOMAS DOUGHTY. once again together before his death, and that he might not 99 die other than a gentleman's death . Though sundry reasons were used by many to persuade him to take either of the other ways, yet when he remained resolute in his former deter mination, both parts of his last re quest were granted ; and the next convenient day a communion was celebrated by Mr Francis Fletcher, preacher and pastor of the fleet at that time. The General himself com municated at this Sacred Ordinance, with this condemned penitent gentle man, who showed great tokens of a contrite and repentant heart, as who was more deeply displeased with his own act than any man else. And after this holy repast they dined, also at the same table together, as cheer fully in sobriety, as ever in their lives they had done aforetime : each cheering up the other, and taking their leave, by drinking each to other, as if some journey only had been in hand. After dinner, all things being brought in readiness by him that sup plied the room of the Provost Mar shall, without any dallying, or delay. ing the time, he came forth and kneeled down, preparing at once his neck for the axe, and his spirit for Heaven ; which having done without long ceremony, as who had before di gested this whole tragedy, he desired all the rest to pray for him, and willed the executioner to do his office, not to fear nor spare. Thus having by the worthy manner of his death being much more honour able by it than blamable for any other of his actions) fully blotted out what ever stain his fault might seem to bring upon him, he left unto our fleet a lamentable example ofa goodly gentleman who, in seeking advance ment unfit for him, cast away him self ; and unto posterity a monument of I know not what fatal calamity, ¹ 1 The context shows that these words would have been better re versed ; the Narrator plainly refer ring to the " calamitous fatality " of the place, where both Drake and
28
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [1578. as incident to that port, and such our other business, and brought our like actions, which might haply afford fleet into the smallest number a new pair of Parallels to be added to even three only, besides our pinnaces that we might the casier keep our Plutarch's : In that the same place, near about the same time of the year, selves together, be the better fur witnessed the execution of two gen nished with necessaries, and be the tlemen, suffering both for the like stronger manned, against whatsoever cause, employed both in like service, need should be -August 17, we de entertained both in great place, en parted out of this port ; and being dued both with excellent qualities, now in great hope of a happy issue to the one fifty- eight years after the our enterprise, which Almighty God other. For on the main our men hitherto had so blessed and prospered, found a gibbet, fallen down, made of we set our coast for the Straits, south a spruce mast, with men's bones west. August 20, we fell with the Cape underneath it, which they conjectured to be the same gibbet which Magellan near which lies the entrance into the commanded to be erected, in the year Straits, called by the Spaniards Capo 1520, for the execution of John Car Virgin Maria, 3 appearing four leagues thagena, the Bishop of Burgor's cou before you come to it, with high and sin, whoby the King's orderwas joined steep grey cliffs, full of black stars, with Magellan in commission, and against which the sea beating showeth made his Vice-admiral. In the as it were the spouting of whales, island as we digged to bury this gen having the highest of the cape like tleman, we found a great grinding Cape Vincent in Portugal. At this stone, broken in two parts, which we cape our General caused his fleet, in took and set fast in the ground, the homage to our Sovereign Lady the one part at the head, the other at the Queen's Majesty, to strike their top feet, building up the middle space sails upon the bunt, as a token of his with other stones and tufts of earth, willing and glad mind to shew his and engraved in the stones the names dutiful obedience to her Highness, of the parties buried there, with the whom he acknowledged to have full time of their departure, and a me interest and right in that new dis morial of our General's name, in Latin, covery ; and withal, in remembrance that it might be the better understood | of his honourable friend and favourer, of all that should come after us. Sir Christopher Hatton, he changed These things thus ended and set in the name of the ship which himself order, our General discharged the went in from the Pelican to be called Mary-our Portugal prize- because the Golden Hind.5 Which ceremon she was leaky and troublesome, defac- ies being ended, together with a ser ed her, and then left her ribs and keel mon, teaching true obedience, with upon the island where for two monthis prayers and giving of thanks for Her together we had pitched our tents. Majesty and her most honourable And so having wooded, watered, Council, with the whole body of the trimmed our ships, despatched all Commonweal and Church of God, we continued our course on into the Magellan had to exercise the extrem said frete, " where passing with land in sighton both sides, we shortlyfell with ity of justice. 1 Not Don Juan de Carthagena, but Don Luis de Mendoza-upon Cabo de las Virgenes, or Cape whom Magellan placed great reliance Virgins, in modern maps. -suffered, with some other ring 4 To lower the topsails half-way, the sail. leaders in the mutiny, the fate indi upon 5 the bunt or bend of formed cated in the text ; Don Juan, with part Conjectured to have several of the less guilty accomplices, of the Chancellor's armorial bearings. being left among the Patagonians. A sound or narrow sea ; Latin, " fretum," 2 Stripped her of her planking.
29 THE ISLANDS OF ST GEORGE AND ELIZABETH. 1578. ] so narrow a strait, as, carrying with it in such sort, as Nature may seem to much wind, often turnings, and many have granted them no small preroga dangers, requireth an expert judg tive in swiftness, both to prey upon ment in him that shall pass the others, and themselves to escape from same it lies WNW. and ESE. But any others that seek to seize upon having left this strait astern, we them. And such was the infinite re seemed to be come out of a river of sort of these birds to these islands, two leagues broad, into a large and that in the space of one day we killed main sea ; having, the night follow no less than 3000, and if the increase ing, an island in sight, which-being be according to the number, it is not in height nothing inferior to the is to be thought that the world hath land Fogo, before spoken of-burneth, brought forth a greater blessing, in like it also, aloft in the air, in a won one kind of creature in so small a derful sort, without intermission. circuit, so necessarily and plentifully It has formerly been received as an serving the use of man. They are a undoubted truth, that the seas, fol very good and wholesome victual. lowing the course of the first mover, Our General named these islands, the from East to West, have a continual one Bartholomew, according to the current through the Strait, but our day, theother Saint George's, inhonour experience found the contrary ; the of England, according to the ancient ebbings and flowings here being as custom there observed. In the Is orderly-in which the water rises and land of Saint George we found the falls more than five fathoms upright body of a man, so long dead before, -as on other coasts. that his bones would not hold toge The 24th ofAugust, being Bartholo ther, being moved out of the place mew's Day, we fell with three islands, whereon they lay. From these islands to the entrance bearing triangle-wise one from an other one of them was very fair and into the South Sea, the frete is very large and of a fruitful soil, upon crooked, having many turnings, and which, being next unto us and the as it were shuttings- up, as if there weather very calm, our General with were no passage at all ; by means his gentlemen and certain of his mari whereof we were often troubled with ners then landed, taking possession contrary winds, so that some of our thereof in Her Majesty's name, and ships recovering a cape of land, enter to her use, and calling the same ing another reach, the rest were forced Elizabeth Ísland. The other two, to alter their course and come to an though they were not so large nor so chor where they might. It is true fair to the eye, yet were they to us which Magellan reports of this pas exceeding useful, for in them we1 sage : namely, that there be many found great store of strange things, fair harbours and store of fresh water ; which could not fly at all, nor yet run but some ships had need to be freight so fast as that they could escape used with nothing else besides anchors with their lives ; in body they are and cables, to find ground in most of less than a goose, and bigger than a them to come to anchor ; which when mallard, short and thick set together, any extreme gusts or contrary winds having no feathers, but instead thereof do come, whereunto the place is alto a certain hard and matted down ; gether subject, is a great hindrance their beaks are not much unlike the to the passage, and carries with it no bills of crows ; they lodge and breed small danger. The land on both sides upon the land, where, making earths, is very high and mountainous, having as the conies do, in the ground, they on the North and West side the con lay their eggs and bring up their tinent of America, and on the South young ; their feeding and provision to and East part nothing but islands, live on is in the sea, where they swim among which lie innumerable fretes or passages into the South Sea. The mountains arise with such tops and ¹ Penguins.
30
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
spires into the air, and of so rare a | height, as they may well be accounted amongst the wonders of the world ; environed, as it were, with many regions of congealed clouds and frozen meteors, whereby they are continually fed and increased, both in height and bigness, from time to time, retaining that which they have once received, being little again diminished by the heat of the sun, as being so far from reflection and so nigh the cold and frozen region. But notwithstand ing all this, yet are the low and plain grounds very fruitful, the grass green and natural, the herbs, that are of very strange sorts, good and many ; the trees, for the most part of them, always green ; the air of the tempera ture of our country ; the water most pleasant ; and the soil agreeing to any grain which we have growing in our country : a place, no doubt, that lacketh nothing but a people to use the same to the Creator's glory and the increasing of the Church. The people inhabiting these parts made tires as we passed by in divers places. Drawing nigh the entrance of the South Sea, we had such a shutting-up to the northwards, and such large and open fretes towards the south, that it was doubtful which way we should 1pass, without further dis covery ; for which cause, our Gene ral having brought his fleet to anchor under an island, himself, with certain of his gentlemen, rowed in a boat to descry the passage : who having discovered a sufficient way toward the North, in their return to their ships met a canoe, under the same island where we rode then at anchor, having in her divers persons. This canoe, or boat, was made of the bark of divers trees, having a prow and a stern standing up, and semicircle wise yielding inward, of one form and fashion, the body whereof was a most dainty mould, bearing in it most comelyproportion and excellentwork manship, in so much as to our Gene ral and us it seemed never to have been done without the cunning and
1 Exploration.
[1578.
expert judgment of art ; and that not for the use of so rude and barbarous a people, but for the pleasure of some great and noble personage, yea, of some Prince. It had no other closing up or caulking in the seams, but the stitching with thongs made of seal skins, or other such beast, and yet so close that it received very little or no water at all. The people are of a mean 2 stature, but well set and compact in all their parts and limbs ; they have great pleasure in painting their faces, as the others have, of whom we have spoken before. Within the said Island they had a house of mean building, of cer tain poles, and covered with skins of beasts, having therein fire, water, and such meat as commonly they can come by, as seals, mussels, and such like. The vessels wherein they keep their water, and their cups in which they drink, are made of barks of trees, as was their canoe, and that with no less skill (for the bigness of the thing), being of a very formal shape and good fashion. Their work ing tools, which they use in cutting these things and such other, are knives made of most huge and mon strous mussel shells (the like whereof have not been seen or heard of lightly by any travellers, the meat thereof being very savoury and good in eat ing) ; which after they have broken off the thin and brittle substance of the edge, they rub and grind them upon stones had for the purpose, till they have tempered and set such an edge upon them, that no wood is so hard but they will cut it at pleasure with the same ; whereof we ourselves had experience. Yea, they cut there with bones of a marvellous hardness, making of them fisgies to kill fish, wherein they have a most pleasant exercise with great dexterity. The 6th of September we had left astern of us all these troublesome islands, and were entered into the South Sea, or Mare del Zur, at the
2 Middling, ordinary. 3 Or fizgigs ; see Note 4, page 128. 4 Drake was the fourth person who
31 A VIOLENT STORM. 1578.] sum-God by a contrary wind and de had General Cape whereof our termined with his whole company to intolerable tempest seemed to set him have gone on shore, and there, after self against us, forcing us not only to a sermon, to have left a monument alter our course and determination , of Her Majesty, engraven in metal, but with great trouble, long time, for a perpetual remembrance, which many dangers, hard escapes, and final he had in a readiness for that end separating of our fleet, to yield our prepared : but neither was there any selves unto his will. Yea, such was anchoring, neither did the wind suffer the extremity of the tempest, that it us by any means to make a stay. appeared to us as if he had pronounced Only this by all our men's observa a sentence not to stay his hand, nor tions was concluded : that the en to withdraw his judgment, till he had trance, by which we came into this buried our bodies, and ships also, in Strait, was in 52°, the middle, in 53° the bottomless depths of the raging 15' , and the going out in 52° 30', being sea. In the time of this incredible 150 leagues in length : at the very storm, the 15th of September, the entry, supposed also to be about ten moon was eclipsed in Aries, and leagues in breadth . After we were darkened about three points, for the entered ten leagues within it, it was space of two glasses ; which being found not past a league in breadth : ended might seem to give us some farther within, in some places very hope of alteration and change of large, in some very narrow ; and in weather to the better. Notwithstand the end found to be no Strait at all, ing, as the ecliptical conflict could add but all islands. Now when our Gene nothing to our miserable estate, no ral perceived that the nipping cold, more did the ending thereof ease us under so cruel and frowning a winter, anything at all, nor take away any of had impaired the health of some of our troubles from us : but our eclipse his men, he meant to have made the continued still in its full force, so more haste again towards the Line, prevailing against us, that, for the and not to sail any further towards space of full fifty-two days together, the Pole Antarctic, lest being further we were darkened more than the from the sun, and nearer the cold, moon by twenty parts, or more than we might haply be overtaken with we by any means could ever have some greater danger of Sickness. But preserved or recovered light of our God, giving men leave to purpose, re selves again, if the Son of God, which served to himself the disposition of laid this burthen upon our backs, all things ; making their intents of had not mercifully borne it up with none effect, or changing their mean his own shoulders, and upheld us in ing oft-times clean into the contrary, it by his own power, beyond any pos as may best serve for his own glory sible strength or skill of man. Neither and their profit. indeed did we at all escape, but, For September 7th, the second day with the feeling of great discomforts after our entrance into the South Sea through the same. For these violent -called by some Mare Pacificum, but and extraordinary flaws, such as sel proving to us rather to be Mare Furio domhave been seen, still continuingor rather increasing, September 30th, in achieved the passage of the Straits, the night, caused the sorrowful separa having been preceded by Magellan in tion of the Marigold from us ; in 1520, by Loyasa in 1526, and by which was Captain John Thomas, Juan de Ladrilleros, from the Pacific with many others of our dear friends, side, in 1558. The English com who by no means that we could con mander had better fortune than his ceive could help themselves, but by predecessors, in respect to weather spooming along before the sea.¹ With and temperature ; accomplishing in 1 Running straight before the wind, about a fortnight what had occupied months. and with the sea ; usually done in the
32
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1578. whom albeit we could never meet | forward, and so coasting Brazil they again, yet (our General having before arrived in England June 2d the year hand given order, that if any of our following. So that now our Admiral, fleet did lose company the place of if she had retained her old name of resort to meet again should be in 30° Pelican, which she bare at our de or thereabouts upon the coast of Peru parture from our Country, she might towards the Equinoctial) we long time have been now indeed said to be as a hoped, till experience shewed our pelican in the wilderness. For albeit hope was vain, that there we should our General sought the rest of his joyfully meet with them : especially fleet with great care, yet could we not for that they were well provided of have any sight or certain news cf victuals, and lacked no skilful and them by any means. 1 sufficient men (besides their Captain) From this Bayof Parting of Friends, to bring forward the ship to the place we were forcibly driven back again into 55° towards the Pole Antarctic. appointed. From the 7th of September, in In which height we ran in among which the storm began, till the 7th the islands before mentioned, lying to of October, we could not by any the southward of America, through means recover any land ; having in which we passed from one sea to the meantime been driven so far the other, as hath been declared. south as to the 57° and somewhat Where coming to anchor, we found better. On this day, towards night, the waters there to have their in somewhat to the northward of that draught and free passage, and that Cape of America whereof mention is through no small guts or narrow chan made before in the description of our nels, butindeed through as large fretes departure from the Strait into this or straits as it hath at the supposed Sea, with a sorry sail we entered a Straits of Magellan, through which harbour where hoping to enjoy some we came. Among these islands mak freedom and ease till the storm was ing our abode with some quietness ended, we received within few hours for a very little while (viz. , two days) after our coming to anchor so deadly a stroke and hard entertainment that 1 Edward Cliffe, who narrates the our Admiral left not only an anchor voyage of the Elizabeth back to Eng behind her, through the violence and land, denies that Winter intended to fury of the flaw, but in departing desert his Admiral, and declares that thence also lost the company and some attempts were made to rejoin sight of our Vice- Admiral, the Eliza him. As these attempts, however, beth, partly through the negligence seem to have been limited to the light of those who had the charge of her, ing of fires on the shore within the partly through a kind of desire that narrows, just the direction in which some in her had to be out of these Drake did not design to prosecute his troubles, and to be at home again ; voyage, they do not seem to have which (as since is known) they thence been either very energetic or very forward by all means assayed and sincere. The Elizabeth's company, performed. For the very next day, after resting and recruiting them October 8th, recovering the mouth of selves in Port Health for several the Straits again, which we were weeks, desired to resume the enter. now so near unto, they returned back prise ; but Captain Winter compelled the same way by which they came them to abandon the voyage, full 39 sore against the mariners' minds,' case of weak ships, which by lying to affirming that he now despaired of the sea might have their masts car the Admiral's safety, or of being able ried by the board. The Marigold to gain the golden shores of Peru. justified the worst apprehensions of Winter was the first Englishman to her friends, for nothing more was navigate the Straits of Magellan ever heard of her or of her company. eastward.
33 CONTINUANCE OF THE STORM. 1578. ] and finding divers good and whole- | sail ; the most mad seas ; the lee some herbs, together with fresh water ; shores ; the dangerous rocks ; the con our men, who before were weak, and trary and most intolerable winds ; much impaired in their health, began the impossible passage out; the des to receive good comfort, especially by perate tarrying there, and inevitable the drinking of one herb (not much perils on every side, did lay before us unlike that herb which we commonly so small likelihood to escape present call Pennyleaf) which, purging with destruction, that if the special provi great facility, afforded great help and dence of God himself had not sup refreshing to our wearied and sickly ported us, we could never have en bodies. But the winds returning to dured that woeful state, as being their old wont, and the seas raging environed with most terrible and after their former manner, yea every most fearful judgments round about. thing as it were setting itself against For, truly, it was more likely that our peace and desired rest, here was the mountains should have been rent no stay permitted us, neither any in sunder from the top to the bottom, safety to be looked for. For such was and cast headlong into the sea, by the present danger by forcing and these unnatural winds, than that we continual flaws, that we were rather by any help or cunning of man to look for present death than hope should free the life of any amongst for any delivery, if God Almighty us.1 should not make the way for us. Notwithstanding, the same God of The winds were such as if the bowels mercy which delivered Jonah out of ofthe Earth had set all at liberty, or the whale's belly, and heareth all as if all the clouds under heaven had those that call upon him faithfully in been called together to lay their force their distress, looked down from upon that one place. The seas, heaven, beheld our tears, and heard which by nature and of themselves our humble petitions, joined with are heavy, and of a weighty sub holy vows. Even God- whom not stance, were rolled up from the depths, the winds and seas alone, but even even from the roots of the rocks, as the devils themselves and powers of if it had been a scroll of parchment hell obey-did so wonderfully free which by the extremity of heat run us, and make our way open before us, neth together ; and being aloft were as it were by his holy angels still carried in most strange manner and guiding and conducting us, that, more abundance, as feathers or drifts of than the affright and amaze of this snow, by the violence of the winds, Estate, we received no part of damage to water the exceeding tops of high in all the things that belonged to us. and lofty mountains . Our anchors, But escaping from these Straits and as false friends in such a danger, gave miseries, as it were through the over their holdfast, and as if it had needle's eye (that God might have been with horror of the thing, did the greater glory in our delivery), by shrink down to hide themselves in the great and effectual care and travail this miserable storm, committing the of our General, the Lord's instrument distressed ship , and helpless men to therein ; we could now no longer for the uncertain and rolling seas, which bear, but must needs find some place tossed them like a ball in a racket. of refuge, as well to provide water, In this case, to let fall more anchors wood, and other necessaries, as to would avail us nothing; for being comfort our men, thus worn and tired driven from our first place of anchor out by so many and so long intoler ing, so unmeasurable was the depth, able toils ; the like whereof, it is to that 500 fathoms would fetch no be supposed, no traveller hath felt, ground. So that the violent storm without intermission ; the impos 1 Compare, with this account of sibility to come to anchor ; the Drake's difficulties, that of Anson's want of opportunity to spread any in the same navigation.
34 DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1578. neither hath there ever been such a Ocean and the South Sea meet in a tempest, that any records make men most large and free scope. It hath been a dream through many tion of, so violent and of such continu ance, since Noah's flood ; for, as hath ages, that these islands have been a been said, it lasted from September 7th main,3 and that it hath been Terra to October 28th, full fifty-two days. Incognita, wherein many strange Not many leagues, therefore, to the monsters lived. Indeed, it might southward of our former anchoring, truly before this time be called In we ran in again among these islands, cognita, for howsoever the maps and where we had once more better likeli general descriptions of cosmographers, hood to rest in peace ; and so much either upon the deceivable reports of the rather, for that we found the other men, or the deceitful imagina people of the country travelling for tions of themselves (supposing never their living from one island to an herein to be corrected), have set it other in their Canoes, both men, down, yet it is true, that before this women, and young infants wrapt in time it was never discovered or cer skins and hanging at their mothers' tainly known by any traveller that backs ; with whom we had traffic for we have heard of. And here, as in a such things as they had, as chains of fit place, it shall not be amiss to re certain shells, and such other trifles. move that error in opinion, which Here the Lord gave us three days to hath been held by many, of the im breathe ourselves and to provide such possible return out of Mare del Zur things as we wanted, albeit the same into the West Ocean by reason of the was with continual care and troubles supposed Eastern current and levant to avoid imminent dangers, which winds, which (say they) speedily the troubled seas and blustering winds carry any thither, but suffer no re did every hour threaten unto us. But turn. They are herein likewise alto when we seemed to have staid there gether deceived, for neither did we too long, we were more rigorously as meet with any such current, nor had saulted by the not formerly ended we any such certain winds with any but now more violently renewed such speed to carry us through ; but storm, and driven thence also with at all times, in our passage there, we no small danger, leaving behind us found more opportunity to return the greater part of our cable with the back again into the West Ocean, than anchor ; being chased along by the to go forward into Mare del Zur, by winds and buffeted incessantly in each means either of current or winds to quarter by the seas, (which our Gene hinder us, whereof we had experience ral interpreted as though God had more than we wished : being glad sent them of purpose to the end which oftentimes to alter our course, and to ensued), till at length we fell with the fall astern again with frank wind, uttermost part of land towards the without any impediment of any such South Pole, and had certainly dis surmised current, farther in one after covered how far the same doth reach noon, than we could fetch up or southward from the coast of America recover again in a whole day, with a aforenamed. The uttermost cape or reasonable gale. And in that they headland of all these islands stands allege the narrowness of the frete, near in 56°, without which there is and the want of sea-room, to be the no main nor island to be seen to the cause of this violent current, they southwards, but that the Atlantic are herein no less deceived, than they
1 Thus Drake accidentally dis covered Cape Horn, which received its name from Schouten and Le Maire, who sailed round it for the first time in 1616. * Beyond, outside. |
3 A continent or mainland of them selves. 4 Elsewhere we read that Drake held himself warranted in changing the title of Terra Incognita into Terra nunc bene Cognita.
35 ON THE COAST OF PERU. 1578. ] were in the other without reason : for | day, with two islands, being, as it besides that it cannot be said, that were, storehouses of the most liberal there is one only passage, but rather provision of victuals for us, of birds ; innumerable, it is most certain that, yielding not only sufficient and a- seaboard¹ all these islands, there is plentiful store for us who were pre one large and main sea ; wherein if sent, but enough to have served all any will not be satisfied, nor believe the rest also who were absent. the report of our experience and eye Thence, having furnished ourselves sight, he should be advised to suspend to our content, we continued our his judgment till he have either tried course, November 1st, still North it himself by his own travel, or shall west, as we had formerly done ; but understand, by other travellers, more in going on we soon espied that we particulars to confirm his mind herein. might easily have been deceived ; Now as we were fallen to the utter and therefore casting about and steer most part of these islands, October ing upon another point we found that 28th, our troubles did make an end, the general maps did err from the the storms ceased, and all our cala truth in setting down the coast of mities (only the absence of our friends Peru for twelve degrees at least to excepted) were removed ; as if God, the Northward of the supposed Strait, all this while, by his secret provi no less than is the NW. point of the dence, had led us to make this dis compass different from the NE.; covery, which being made, according perceiving thereby that no man had to his will, he stayed his hand, as ever by travel discovered any part of pleased his majesty therein, and re these twelve degrees ; and therefore freshed us as his servants. At these the setters forth of such descriptions southerly parts we found the night in are not to be trusted, much less the latter end of October to be but honoured, in their false and fraudu two hours long : the sun being yet lent conjectures which they use, not above seven degrees distant from the in this alone, but in divers other Tropic ; so that it seems, being in the points of no small importance. We found this part of Peru, all Tropic, to leave very little or no night at all in that place. There be few of alongst to the height of Lima, which all these islands but have some inha is 129 south of the Line, to be moun bitants, whose manners, apparel, tainous and very barren, without houses, canoes, and means of living, water or wood, for the most part, arelikeunto those formerlyspoken of, a except in certain places inhabited by little before our departure out of the the Spaniards, and few others, which Strait. To all these islands did our are very fruitful and commodious. General give one name, to wit, Eliza After we were once again thus fallen bethides. After two days' stay which with the land, we continually coasted we made in and about these islands, along, till we came to the height of the 30th of October we set sail, shap 379 or thereabout ; and finding no ing our course right North-west, to convenient place of abode, nor likeli coast alongst the parts of Peru (for so hood to hear any news of our ships, the general maps set out the land to we ran off again with an island which lie) both for that we might, with con lay in sight, named of the Spaniards venient speed, fall with the height of Mucho, by reason of the greatness 30°, beingthe place appointed for the and large circuit thereof. " At this rest of our fleet to re-assemble ; as island coming to anchor November also that no opportunity might be 25th, we found it to be a fruitful place, lost in the meantime to find them and well stored with sundry sorts of out, if it seemed good to God to direct them to us. It is, despite this derivation, In this course we chanced, the next marked in the maps as " Mocha." lying off the Chilian coast midway 1 On the seaward side, to the South. between Valdivia and Concepcion.
36 DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1578. good things : as sheep and other those traitorous people, and suddenly cattle, maize (which is a kind of slain : and to the end that our Gene grain whereof they make bread), ral with the rest of his company potatoes, with such other roots ; be should not only be stayed from rescu sides that, it is thought to be won ing them, but also might fall, if it derfully rich in gold, and to want no were possible, into their hands in good thing for the use of man's life. like manner, they had laid closely The inhabitants are such Indians as behind the rocks an ambushment by the cruel and most extreme dealing (as we guessed) of about 500 men, of the Spaniards have been driven to armed and well appointed for such a fly from the main here, to relieve mischief. Who suddenly attempting and fortify themselves. With this their purpose (the rocks being very people our General thought it meet dangerous for the boat, and the sea to have traffic for fresh victuals and gate exceeding great) by shooting water ; and for that cause, the very their arrows hurt and wounded every same night of our arrival there, him one of our men, before they could free self with divers of his company went themselves, or come to the use of ashore, to whom the people with their weapons to do any good . The great courtesy came down, bringing General himself was shot in the face, with them such fruits and other vic under his right eye, and close by his tuals as they had, and two very fat nose, the arrow piercing a marvellous sheep, which they gave our General way in under basis cerebri, with no for a present. In recompense whereof small danger of his life ; besides that he bestowed upon them again many he was grievously wounded in the good and necessary things ; signify- head. The rest, being nine persons, ing unto them that the end of his in the boat, were deadly wounded in coming was for no other cause but by divers part of their bodies, if God way of exchange, to traffic with them almost miraculously had not given for such things as we needed and cure to the same. For our chief sur they could spare ; and, in particular, geon being dead, and the other absent for such as they had already brought by the loss of our Vice-admiral, and down unto us, besides fresh water, having none left us but a boy whose which we desired of them. Herein goodwill was more than any skill he they held themselves well contented, had, we were little better than alto and seemed to be not a little joyful gether destitute of such cunning and of our coming, appointing where we helps as so grievous a state of so many should have the next morning fresh wounded bodies did require. Not water at pleasure, and withal signify withstanding God, by the good advice ing that then also they would bring of our General, and the diligent put us down such other things as we de ting-to of every man's help, did give sired to serve our turns. such speedy and wonderful cure, that The next day therefore, very early we had all great comfort thereby, and in the morning (all things being yielded God the glory thereof. made ready for traffic, as also vessels The cause of this force and injury prepared to bring the water), our Gene by these islanders was no other but ral, taking great care for so necessary the deadly hatred which they bear provision, repaired to the shore again ; against their cruel enemies the Spani and setting a-land two of his men, ards, for the bloody and most tyran sent them with their barricoes¹ to the nous oppression which they had used watering-place assigned the night be towards them. And thereforewith pur fore. Who having peaceably passed pose against them (suspecting us to on one-half of the way, were then be Spaniards indeed, and that the with no small violence set upon by rather by occasion that, though com 2 The force of the waves lifting the 1 Casks ; Spanish, 64 Barrica," & boat towards the rocks. keg.
37 HELP FROM THE INDIANS. 1578.] mand was given to the contrary, some | vour in a diligent search, yet after of our men, in demanding water, long travel could find no appearance used the Spanish word " Aqua ") of hope for relief, either of fresh sought some part of revenge against victuals or of fresh water ; huge herds us. Our General, notwithstanding of wild buffs 3 they might discern, he might have revenged this wrong but not so much as any sign of any with little hazard or danger, yet being inhabitant thereabout. Yet in their more desirous to preserve one of his return to us they descried within the own men alive, than to destroy an bay an Indian with his canoe, as he hundred of his enemies, committed was a-fishing ; him they brought the same to God ; wishing this only aboard our General, canoe and all, as punishment to them, that they did he was in it. A comely personage, but know whom they had wronged ; and of a goodly stature ; his apparel and that they had done this injury was a white garment, reaching scarcely not to an enemy, but to a friend ; not to his knees ; his arms and legs were to a Spaniard, but to an Englishman ; naked ; his hair upon his head very who would rather have been a patron long ; without a beard, as all the to defend them, than any way an in Indians for the most part are. He strument of the least wrong that seemed very gentle, of mild and should have been done unto them. humble nature, being very tractable The weapons which this people use in to learn the use of everything, and their wars, are arrows of reeds, with most grateful for such things as our heads of stone very brittle and in General bestowed upon him. In him dented, but darts of a great length, we might see a most lively pattern of headed with iron or bone. the harmless disposition of that people, The same day that we received this and how grievous a thing it is that dangerous affront, in the afternoon, they should by any means be so we set sail from thence ; and because abused as all those are whom the we were now nigh the appointed Spaniards have any command or height wherein our ships were to be power over. looked for, as also the extremity and This man being courteously enter crazy¹ state of our hurt men advising tained, and his pains of coming doubly us to use expedition to find some con requited, after we had shewed him, venient place of repose which might partly by signs, and partly by such afford them some rest, and yield us things as we had, what things we necessary supply of fresh victuals for needed, and would gladly receive by their diet ; we bent our course, as the his means, upon exchange of such wind would suffer us, directly to run things as he would desire, we sent in with the main. Where falling with him away with our boat and his own a bay called Philip's Bay, 2 in 32° or canoe (which was made of reed straw) thereabout, November 30, we came to land him where he would. Who to anchor and forthwith manned and being landed, and willing our men sent our boat to discover what likeli to stay his return, was immediately hood the place would offer to afford met with by two or three of his us such things as we stood in need of. friends ; to whom imparting his news, Our boat doing her uttermost endea and shewing what gifts he had re ceived, he gave so great content, that 1 Used in the simply physical sense they willingly furthered his purpose : so that, after certain hours of our of sickly or weakly. 2 The name, conferred in honour of men's abode there, he with divers the natives afterwards mentioned, who others (among whom was their head guided them to Valparaiso, has not or captain) made their return, bring been maintained in the modern maps ; ing with them their loadings of suck probably the place was Pichidanqui things as they thought would de Cove, rather more than a degree to 3 Buffaloes, wild oxen. the north of Valparaiso.
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 38 [1578. us good, as some hens, eggs, a fat which the place afforded, or which hog, and such like. All which, that our necessities indeed for the present cur men might be without all suspi required, but we had the same in cion of all evil to be meant or in great abundance. Amongst other tended by them, they sent in one of things, we found in the town divers their canoes, a reasonable distance storehouses of the wines of Chili ; and from off the shore, to our boat, the in the harbour a ship called the Cap sea-gate being at present very great ; tain of Moriall, or the Grand Captain and their captain, having sent back of the South , Admiral to the Islands his horse, would needs commend him of Salomon, laden for the most part self to the credit of our men, though with the same kind of liquors ; only strangers, and come with them to the there was besides a certain quantity General, without any of his own of fine gold of Baldivia, and a great acquaintance or countrymen with cross of gold beset with emeralds, on him. which was nailed a god of the same By his coming, as we understood metal. We spent some time in re that there was no means or way to freshing ourselves, and easing this have our necessities relieved in this ship of so heavy a burthen ; and on place; so he offered himself to be our the 8th day of the same month pilot to a place, and that a good har having in the meantime sufficiently bour, not far back to the southward stored ourselves with necessaries, as again, where, by way of traffic, we wine, bread, bacon, &c. , for a long might have at pleasure both water season-we set sail, returning back and those other things which we towards the Line, carrying again our stood in need of. This offer our Gene Indian pilot with us, whom our Gene ral very gladly received,¹ and so ral bountifully rewarded, and enriched much the rather, for that the place with many good things, which pleased intended was near about the place him exceedingly, and caused him by appointed for the rendezvous of our the way to be landed in the place fleet. Omitting therefore our pur where he desired.5 pose of pursuing the buffs formerly 4 Drake's men were welcomed with spoken of, of which we had otherwise determined, if possible, to have killed beat of drum bythe few Spaniards on some, this good news of better provi board, and asked to partake of Chili sion, and more easy to come by, drew wine, under the belief that they were The Spaniards were us away; and so the fifth day after compatriots. our arrival, December 4, we departed soon rudely undeceived ; but one hence, and the next day, by the will escaped to shore and alarmed the ing conduct of our new Indian pilot, town, the inhabitants of which we came to anchor in the desired har speedily took refuge inland. About bour. This harbour the Spaniards 1800 jars of wine, and a quantity of call Valparaiso, and the town adjoin gold variously stated at from 25,000 ing Saint James of Chili : it stands to 60,000 pesos, were found in the in 35° 40'3 ; where, albeit we neither Grand Captain, when she was subse met with our ships nor heard of quently overhauled at sea ; she was them, yet there was no good thing destined for Peru. Mr Fletcher touches mildly on this act of open 1 By other accounts, it had been piracy ; he does not mention at all Drake's purpose to go for Valparaiso , the sacrilege of which the explorers and were guilty, in plundering the church but he oversailed that port, Felipe-the name of the "" head or of its ornaments and relics-among captain "-undertook to pilot them the former two cruets, a silver chalice, and an altar-cloth, which became by back, 2 believing them Spaniards. Santiago, the present capital of gift the property of the chaplain him . Chili. self. 3 An obvious misprint for 33° 40′. 5 Felipe, who had unwittingly be
39 CRUELTY OF THE SPANIARDS. 1578. ] Our necessities being thus to our | aforesaid, who speedily made out 300 content relieved, our next care was men at least, whereof 100 were Span the regaining-if possible-of the iards, every one well-mounted upon company of our ships so long severed his horse : the rest were Indians, run from us neither would anything ning as dogs at their heels, all naked , have satisfied our General or us so and in most miserablebondage. They well, as the happy meeting or good could not come anyway so closely, news of them. This way therefore, but God did open our eyes to see them, all other thoughts for the present set before there was any extremity of apart, were all our studies and endea danger ; whereby our men, being vours bent, how to fit it so as that no warned, had reasonable time to shift opportunity of meeting them might themselves as they could first from be passed over. To this end, con the main to a rock within the sea, sidering that we could not conveni and from thence into their boat, ently run in with our ship in search which, being ready to receive them, of them to every place where there conveyed them with expedition out was likelihood of being a harbour, and of the reach of the Spaniards ' fury, thatour boat was too little, and unable without the hurt of any man. Only to carry men enough to encounter the one Richard Minioy, being over bold malice or treachery of the Spaniards and careless of his own safety, would (if we should by any chance meet with not be4 entreated by his friends, nor any of them) who are used to show feared by the multitude of his ene no mercy where they may overmaster ; mies, to take the present benefit of and therefore, meaning not to hazard his own delivery ; but chose either ourselves to their cruel courtesy, we to make 300 men, by outbraving determined, as we coasted now to of them, to become afraid, or else wards the Line, to search diligently himself to die in the place ; the Whose for some convenient place where we latter of which he did. might, in peace and safety, stay¹ the dead body being drawn by the In trimming of our ship, and the erect dians from the rock to the shore, was ing of a pinnace, in which we might there manfully by the Spaniards be with better security than in our boat, headed, the right hand cut off, the and without endangering of our ship heart plucked out ; all which they by running into each creek, leave no carried away in our sight, and for place untried, if happily we might so the rest of his carcass they caused the find again our friends and country Indians to shoot it full of arrows, men. made but the same day, ofgreen wood, For this cause, December 19th, we and so left it to be devoured by the entered a bay not far to the south beasts and fowls, but that we went ward of the town of Cyppo, 2 now in ashore again and buried it ; wherein habited by the Spaniards, in 29° 30' ; as there appeareth a most extreme where, having landed certain of our and barbarous cruelty, so doth men, to the number of fourteen, to it declare to the world in what miser search what conveniency the place able fear the Spaniard holdeth the was likely to afford for our abiding Government of those parts ; living in there, we were immediately descried continual dread of foreign invasion by the Spaniards of the town of Cyppo by strangers, or secret cutting of their throats by those whom they kept trayed the Spaniards at Valparaiso, under them in so shameful slavery, I was replaced in the post of temporary mean the innocent and harmless pilot by a Greek, named Juan Griego, Indians. And therefore they make captured on board the Grand Captain, sure to murder what strangers soever who took Drake as far as Lima. 3 Other accounts make the numbers 1 Remain so long as would suffice for. 300 horse and 200 foot. 4 Alarmed . 2 Coquimbo.
40 DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1578. they can come by, and suffer the In All our businesses being thus de dians by no means to have any wea spatched, January 19th wesetsail from pon longer than they be in present hence ; and the next place that we fell service as appeared by their arrows withal, January 22d, was an island cut from the tree the same day, as also standing in the same height with the by the credible report of others who north cape of the province of Mor knew the matter to be true. Yea, morena. At this island we found four they suppose they show the wretches Indians with their canoes, who took great favour when they do not for upon them to bring our men to a place their pleasures whip them with cords, of fresh water on the foresaid cape ; in and day by day drop their naked hope whereof, our General made them bodies with burning bacon, which is great cheer, as his manner was to one of the least cruelties among many wards all strangers, and set his course which they universally use against by their direction ; but when we came that nation and people. unto the place, and had travelled up This not being the place we looked a long way into the land, we found for, nor the entertainment such as we fresh water indeed, but scarce so much desired, we speedily got hence again, as they had drunk wine in their pas and December 20th, the next day, fell sage thither. As we sailed along, with a more convenient harbour, in a continually searching for fresh water, bay somewhat to the northward of we came a place called Tarapaca,¹ the forenamed Cyppo, lying in 27° 25′ and landing there we lighted on South the Line. In this place we a Spaniard who lay asleep, and had spent some time in trimming of our lying by him thirteen bars of sil ship, and building of our pinnace, ver, weighing in all about 4000 Span as we desired ; but still the grief for ish ducats : we would not, could we the absence of our friends remained have chosen, have awaked him of his with us, for the finding of whom our nap : but seeing we, against our wills, General, having now fitted all things did him that injury, we freed him of to his mind, intended-leaving his his charge, which otherwise perhaps ship the meanwhile at anchor in the would have kept him waking, and so bay ―― with his pinnace and some left him to take out, if it pleased him, chosen men, himself to return back the other part of his sleep in more to the southwards again, to see if security. Our search for water still happily he might either himself meet continuing, as we landed again not with them, or find them in some har far from thence we met a Spaniard bour or creek, or hear of them by any with an Indian boy, driving eight others whom he might meet with. lambs or Peruvian sheep : each sheep With this resolution he set on, but bare two leathern bags, and in each after one day's sailing, the wind be bag was 50 pounds weight of refined ing contrary to his purpose, he was silver, in the whole 800 pounds forced, whether he would or no, to weight : we could not endure to see return again. Within this bay, dur a gentleman Spaniard turned carrier ing our abode there, we had such so, and therefore without entreaty we abundance of fish, not much unlike offered our service and became drovers ; our gurnard in England, as no place only his directions were not so per had ever afforded us the like-Cape fect that we could keep the way which Blanco only upon the coast of Bar he intended, for almost as soon as he bary excepted since our first setting was parted from us, we with our new forth of Plymouth until this time ; kind of carriages were come unto our the plenty whereof in this place was boats.2 such, that our gentlemen sporting 1 Better known now by its port of themselves day by day, with four or five hooks or lines, in two or three Iquique, a few miles distant. hours would take sometimes 400, 2 It is somewhat amusing to notice sometimes more, at one time. the grim humour with which the re
41 THE LLAMA OR PERUVIAN SHEEP. 1579.1 with Farther beyond this cape fore- | Spaniards held the government ; mentioned lie certain Indian towns, these our General thought meet to from whence, as we passed by, came deal, or at least to try their courtesy, many of the people in certain bawses¹ whether they would, in way of traffic, made of sealskins ; of which two be give us such things as we needed or ing joined together, of a just length, no ; and therefore, January the 26th, and side by side, resemble in fashion we cast anchor here. We found them or form a boat : they have in either more from fear than from love, some of them a small gut, or some such what tractable, and received from them thing, blown full of wind, by reason by exchange many good things, very whereof it floateth, and is rowed very necessary for our uses. Amongst swiftly, carrying in it no small bur other things which we had of them, then. In these, upon sight of our the sheep of the country (such as we ships, they brought store of fish of mentioned before, bearing the leathern divers sorts, to traffic with us for any bags) were most memorable. Their trifles we would give them, as knives, height5 and length was equal to a 3 margarites, glasses, and such like, pretty cow, and their strength fully whereof men of sixty and seventy years answerable, if not by much exceeding old were as glad as if they had re their size or stature. Upon one of ceived some exceeding rich commo their backs did sit at one time three dity, being a most simple and plain well-grown and tall men, and one dealing people. Their resort unto us boy, no man's foot touching the was such as, considering the short- ground by a large foot in length , the ness of the time, was wonderful to us beast nothing at all complaining of his burthen in the mean time. These to behold. Not far from this, viz. , in 22° 30' , sheep have necks like camels, their 4 lay Mormorena, another great town heads bearing a reasonable resem of the same people, over whom two blance of another sheep. The Spaniards use them to great profit. verend chaplain carried off acts that Their wool is exceeding fine, their in their nature fell very little short of flesh good meat, their increase ordin ary, and besides they supply the room sheer highway robbery. 1 Boats, "bottoms " ; " bawse'"9 of horses for burthen or travel ; yea, 99 may be either connected with " base,' they serve to carry over the moun or with " buss," a box-shaped small tains marvellous loads, for 300 leagues decked vessel employed in fishery. together, where no other carriage can 2 Answering very much to the de be made but by them only, there scription of the Greenland boats, as about, as also all along, and up into given by Dr Rae, in his latest book, the country throughout the province " The Land of Desolation, " where the of Cuzco, the common ground, where "women's canoes "" or 66 Omyacks ,, soever it be taken up, in every hun are made of sealskins extended on a wicker frame. answer to the latitude ascribed to 3 Beads : the original word, " mar Mormorena in the text. 5 A somewhat small or undersized guerite " or " margarette, " is used to signify a pearl by Wycliffe, and a cow, like the Alderney. 6 All later and more scientific ac daisy by Chaucer. Neither the town nor the province counts of the llama, or Peruvian sheep, only serve to corroborate of this name survives in maps of the present day. They seem, however, Drake's description. They stand to generally to correspond with the dis the south American populations of tricts of Atacam and Cobija, at the the Cordillera coast, even in these extreme north of Chili, and the con days of partial railroad invasion, much tiguous region of Moquegua, at the in the same relation as the " ship of extreme south of Peru. Čobija town the desert " to the Bedaween of Sahara -El Puerto de la Mar-would nearly or the Arabian wilderness.
42
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
dred pounds weight of earth yieldeth 25s. of pure silver, after the rate of a crown an ounce. The next place likely to afford us any news of our ships (for in all this way from the height where we builded our pinnace, there was no bay or harbour at all for shipping) was the port of the town of Arica, standing in 20°, 1 whither we arrived the 7th of February. This town seemed to us to stand in the most fruitful soil that we saw all alongst these coasts, both for that it is situate in the mouth of a most pleasant and fertile valley, abounding with all good things, as also in that it hath continual trade of shipping, as well from Lima as from all other parts of Peru. It is inhabited by the Spaniards. In two barks here we found some forty and odd bars of sil ver, of the bigness and fashion of a brickbat, and in weight each of them about twenty pounds ; of which we took the burthen on ourselves to ease them, and so departed towards Chow ley, with which we fell the second day following, February 9th ; and in our way to Lima we met with another bark at Arequipa, which had begun to load some silver and gold, but having had (as it seemed, from Arica by land) some notice of our coming, had unladen the same again before our arrival. Yet in this passage we met another bark laden with linen, some of which we thought might stand us in some stead, and therefore took it with us. At Lima we arrived February 15th, and notwithstanding the Spaniards' forces, though they had thirty ships at that present in harbour there, whereof seventeen (most of them the
[1579. | especial ships in all the South Seas) were fully ready, we entered and an chored all night in the midst of them, in the Callao, and might have made more spoil amongst them in a few hours, if we had been affected to re venge, than the Spaniards could have recovered again in many years. But we had more care to get up that com pany which we had so long missed, than to recompense their cruel and hard dealing by an even requital, which now we might have taken. This Lima stands in 12° 30′ South Latitude. Here, albeit no good news of our ships could be had, yet got we the news of some things that seemed to comfort if not to countervail our travels thither ; as, namely, that in the ship of one Miguel Angels there, there were 1500 bars of plate ; besides some other things ( as silks, linen, and in one a chest full of royals of plate), which might stand us in some stead, in the other ships, aboard whom we made somewhat bold to bid ourselves welcome. Here also we heard the report of something that had befallen in and near Europesince our departure thence ; in particular of the death of some great personages, as the King of Portugal, and both the Kings of Morocco and Fesse, dead all three in one day at one battle ; the
4 According to another narrative— that of Nuno da Silva, the Portuguese pilot taken at the Cape Verd Islands -the English, being among the ships, enquired for that which had the sil ver, on board ; but learning that all the silver had been carried on shore, they cut the cables of all the ships and the masts of the two largest, and so left them. A ship which came in 1 More nearly in 18° 30′ or 18° 40' . from Panama nearly fell into the 2 Either Ylo, or Yslay, both lying | hands of the English in the harbour ; on the coast between Arica and alarmed in time, she made her escape Quilca, the port of Arequipa ; pro to sea, but was afterwards captured bably Ylo is intended, that town ly and plundered . 5 Callao is in 12°. ing within the northern sweep of the 6 The battle of Aleazar- Seguer, Point of Colas, which the very un Spanish word in the text may have fought August 4th 1578, when Se represent been meant to . bastian of Portugal, and his ally 3 The plate amounted to 800 bars of Muley Hamet of Fez, fell in the silver, belonging to the King of Spain. | decisive overthrow inflicted on their
43 THE CATHOLICS OF LIMA. 1579. ] death of the King of France, and the wise and learned Greeks, as they were Pope of Rome, ¹—whose abominations, short of them in the gifts of learning as they are in part cut off from some and knowledge. But as the Pope Christian kingdoms, where his shame and anti- Christian Bishops labour by is manifest, so do his vassals and ac their wicked factors 3 with tooth and cursed instruments labourbyall means nail to deface the glory of God, and to possible to repair that loss, by spread shut up in darkness the light of the ing the same the farther in these parts, Gospel ; so God doth not suffer His where his devilish illusions and dam name and religion to be altogether nable deceivings are not known. And without witness, to the reproving both as his doctrine takes place anywhere, of his false and damnable doctrine, so do the manners that necessarily as also crying out against his unmea accompany the same insinuate them surable and abominable licentiousness selves together with the doctrine. of the flesh, even in these parts. For For as it is true, that in all the parts in this city of Lima, not two months of America where the Spaniards have before our coming thither, there were any government, the poisonous infec certain persons, to the number of tion of Popery hath spread itself ; so twelve, apprehended, examined, and on the other side it is as true, that condemned for the profession of the there is no city, as Lima, Panama, Gospel, and reproving the doctrines Mexico, etc. , no town or village, yea, of men, with the filthy manners used no house almost in all these provinces, in the city : of which twelve, six were wherein (amongst the other like Span bound to one stake and burnt, the ish virtues) not only whoredom, but rest remained yet in prison, to drink the filthiness of Sodom, not to be of the same cup within few days. named among Christians, is not com Lastly, here we had intelligence of mon without reproof : the Pope's a certain rich ship which was laden pardons 2 being more rife in these with gold and silver for Panama, that parts than they be in any part of had set forth of this haven the 2d of Europe for these filthinesses, where February. The very next day, there out he sucketh no small advantage. fore, in the morning, the 16th of the Notwithstanding, the Indians, who same month, we set sail, as long as are nothing nearer the true knowledge the wind would serve our turn, and of God than they were before, abhor towed our ship as soon as the wind this most filthy and loathsome manner failed ; continuing our course towards of living ; showing themselves, in re Panama, making stay nowhere, but spectof the Spaniards, asthe Scythians hastening all we might, to get sight did in respect of the Grecians : who, in if it were possible of that gallant ship their barbarous ignorance, yet in life the Cacafuego, the great glory of the and behaviour did so far excel the South Sea, which was gone from Lima fourteen days before us. We fell with combined invading forces by Muley the port of Paita in 4° 20′, February Moluc, the Emperor of Morocco 20th ; with the port Saint Helena and himself dying of a lingering malady the river and port of Guayaquil, Feb before the fight began, and dead before ruary 24th. We passed the Line on the it ended. 28th, and on the 1st of March we fell 1 This reference is somewhat be with Cape Francisco, where, about wildering. Henry III. of France mid-day, we descried a sail ahead of reigned from 1574 to 1589. Gregory us, with whom, after once we had XIII . was Pope from 1572 to 1585 ; spoken with her, we lay still in the and it is difficult to imagine that on same place about six days to recover leaving England in 1577, Drake and our breath again, which we had al his followers had not learned the most spent with hasty following, and death of the predecessors of these to recall to mind what adventures potentates. 4 The Pope's. › Agents. 2 Indulgences.
44
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1579. had passed us since our late coming | about 360,000 pesos.³ We gave the from Lima ; but especially to do Juan master a little linen and the like for de Anton a kindness, in freeing him these commodities, and at the end of of the care of those things with which six days we bade farewell and parted. his ship was laden. This ship we He hastened, somewhat lighter than found to be the same of which we had before, to Panama ; we plying off to heard, not only in the Callao of Lima, sea, that we might with more leisure but also by divers occasions after- consider what course henceforward wards, which now we are at leisure to were fittest to be taken.4 relate, viz., by a ship which we took 8 The total value of the silver and between Lima and Paita ; by another, which we took laden with wine in the goid alone has been estimated at port of Paita ; by a third, laden with £750,000 or £1,000,000 of our present tackling and implements for ships, money, leaving the precious stones besides eighty pounds weight in gold and other booty out of account. It from Guayaquil ; and lastly, by Ga is narrated elsewhere that the com briel Alvarez, with whom we talked mander of the Cacafuego so little sus somewhat nearer the Line. We found pected the presence of enemies in those her to be indeed the Cacafucgo, though seas, as to let the Golden Hind ap before we left her she were now named proach him in full security, without by a boy of her own the Cacaplata. " taking any defensive measures till the We found in her some fruit, conserves, last moment, believing that she was sugars, meal, and other victuals, and a Spanish ship sent after him with (that which was the especialest cause despatches from the Viceroy ; yet he of her heavy and slow sailing), a cer did not strike his flag until one of his tain quantity of jewels and precious masts had fallen by the board and stones, thirteen chests of royals of he himself was wounded. The silver plate, eighty pounds weight in gold, bowls belonged to the pilot, to whom twenty-six tons of uncoined silver, two Drake said, " that these were fine very fair gilt silver drinking-bowls, bowls, and he must needs have one and the like trifles, valued in all at of them ; to which the pilot yielded, not knowing how to help himself; ¹ Besides a golden crucifix, with but, to make this appear less like "goodly great emeralds " set in it, of compulsion, he gave the other to the which the Reverend Mr Fletcher Admiral's Steward. " carefully eschews notice. Between Drake at parting gave the captain Lima and Panama, the Viceroy, Don of the Cacafuego the following letter, Francisco de Toledo, although sur addressed to Captain Winter, on the prised by this unexpected inroad of chance of her falling in with the Eliza the English, had fairly defended his beth : " Master Winter, if it pleaseth. coasts from any descent, and had God that you should chance to meet even put such a force to sea, that with this ship of Sant John de Anton, Drake judged it prudent-having I pray you use him well, according richer game to stalk-to show a clean to my word and promise given unto pair of heels. them ; and if you want anything that 2 Or, as the jest is narrated in Hak is in this ship of Sant John de Anton, I pray you pay them double the value luyt : The · pilot's boy said to our General, Captain, our ship shall be for it, which I will satisfy again, and called no more the Cacafuego, but the command your men not to do her any Cacaplata, and your ship shall be the hurt ; and what composition or agree Cacafuego, ' which pretty speech of ment we have made, at my return the pilot's boy ministered matter of into England I will by God's help laughter to us both then and long perform, although I am in doubt that after. " this letter will never come to your hands notwithstanding I am the man I have promised to be : beseech
45 1579.1 EARTHQUAKE OFF NICARAGUA. And considering that now we were from home already, and so much of come to the Northward of the Line our strength separated from us), which (Cape Francisco standing in the en could not at all be done if the oppor trance of the Bay of Panama, in 1° tunity were now neglected : we there North latitude), and that there was fore all of us willingly harkened and no likelihood or hope that our ships consented to our General's advice, should be before us that way by any which was, first to seek out some means seeing that, in running so convenient place wherein to trim our many degrees from the Southernmost ship, and store ourselves with wood Islands hitherto, we could not have and water and other provisions as we any sign or notice of their passage could get, and thenceforward to has that way, notwithstanding that we ten on our intended journey for the dis had made so diligent search and care covery of the said passage, through ful enquiry after them, in every har which we might with joy return to bour and creek almost, as we had our longed homes.¹ From this Cape therefore we set done ; and considering also that the time of the year now drew on where onward, March the 7th, shaping our in we must attempt, or of necessity course towards the Island of Cano, " wholly give over, that action which with which we fell March 16th, setting chiefly our General had determined, ourselves for certain days in a fresh namely, the discovery of what pas river, between the main and it, sage there was to be found about the for the finishing of our needful busi Northern parts of America from the nesses, as it is aforesaid. While we South Sea into our own Ocean (which abode in this place, we felt a very being once discovered and made terrible earthquake, the force where known to be navigable, we should of was such that our ship and pin not only do our country a good and nace, riding very near an English notable service, but we also ourselves mile from the shore, were shaken and should have a nearer cut and passage did quiver as if it had been laid on home ; where otherwise we were to dry land. We found here many good inake a very long and tedious voyage commodities which we wanted, as of it, which would hardly agree with fish, fresh water, wood, &c. , besides ourgood liking, wehavingbeen so long alargartoes, monkeys, and the like ; and in our journey hither we met ing God, the Saviour of all the world, with one ship more (the last we met to have us in his keeping, to whom with in all those coasts), laden with only I give all honour, praise, and linen, China silk, and China dishes, glory. What I have written is not amongst which we found also a fal only to you Mr Winter, but also to con of gold, handsomely wrought, Mr Thomas, Mr Charles, Mr Caube, with a great emerald set in the breast and Mr Anthony, with all our other good friends, whom I commit to the 1 "It is not unworthy of notice," tuition of him that with his blood says one modern chronicler of this redeemed us, and am in good hope voyage, 66' that the scheme for ex that we shall be in no more trouble, ploring a North-eastern channel from but that he will help us in adversity ; the Pacific, thus adopted by Drake, desiring you, for the passion of Christ, is the same with that recommended if you fall into any danger, that you about a century later by the celebrated will not despair of God's mercy, for Dampier. " See post, Dampier's Voy he will defend you and preserve you age, Chapter IX. 2 Off the coast of Nicaragua ; it is from all danger, and bring us to our desired haven ; to whom be all hon mentioned by Dampier, who (Chap. our, glory, and praise, for ever and VIII. , page 172) " coasted along ever, Amen.-Your sorrowful Cap shore, passing by the Gulf of Nicoya, the Gulf of Dulce, and the Island tain, whose heart is heavy for you, • Canc. " " FRANCIS DRAKE."
46
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1579. of it. From thence we parted the parted the day following, viz. , April 24th day of the month forenamed, 16th , setting our course directly into with full purpose to run the nearest the sea, whereon we sailed 500 course, as the wind would suffer us, leagues in longitude, to get a wind : without touch of land a long time ; and between that and June 3d, 1400 and therefore passed by port Papa leagues in all, till we came into 42° gaya : the port of the Vale, of the of North latitude, wherein the night most rich and excellent balms of following we found such alteration of 1 Jericho ; Quantapico, and divers heat into extreme and nipping cold, others ; as also certain gulfs here that our men in general did grievously about, which without intermission complain thereof, some of themfeeling send forth such continual and violent their healths much impaired thereby; winds, that the Spaniards, though neither was it that this chanced in their ships be good, dare not venture the night alone, but the day follow themselves too near the danger of ing carried with it not only the marks, them. Notwithstandinghaving notice but the stings and force of the night that we should be troubled with going before, to the great admiration³ often calms and contrary winds if we of us all . For besides that the pinch continued near the coast, and did not ing and biting air was nothing al run off to sea to fetch the wind, and tered, the very ropes of our ship were that if we did so we could not then fall stiff, and the rain which fell was an with land again when we would ; our unnatural congealed and frozen sub General thought it needful that we stance, so that we seemed rather to should run in with some place or be in the Frozen Zone than any way other before our departure from the so near unto the Sun, or these hotter coast, to see if happily we could, by climates. Neither did this happen traffic, augment our provision of for the time only, or by some sudden victuals and other necessaries , -that accident, but rather seems indeed to bcing at sea we might not be driven proceed from some ordinary cause, to any great want or necessity ; al against which the heat of the Sun beit we had reasonable store of good prevails not ; for it came to that ex things aboard us already. tremity in sailing but two degrees The next harbour therefore which farther to the Northward in our we chanced with, on April 15th, in course, that though seamen lack not 15° 40', was Guatulco, so named of the good stomachs, yet it seemed a ques Spaniards who inhabited it, with tion to many amongst us whethertheir whom we had some intercourse, to hands should feed their mouths, or the supply of many things which we rather keep themselves within their desired, and chiefly bread, &c. And coverts from the pinching cold that now having reasonably, aswe thought, did benumb them. Neither could provided ourselves, we departed from we impute it to the tenderness of our the coast of America for the present ; but not forgetting, before we got a town, and carried culprits and judges shipboard, to take with us also a cer on board together as temporary tain pot, of about a bushel in bigness, prisoners. The name of the man full of royals of plate, which we found who pursued and plundered the in the town, together with a chain of wearer of the golden chain was Tho gold and some other jewels which we mas Moon. At Guatulco the Portu entreated a gentleman Spaniard to guese pilot, Nuno da Silva, and all leave behind him as he was flying the other prisoners, were liberated ; out of town. From Guatulco we de the pilot wrote a narrative of the voy age up to this point, which was sent 1 Probably Tehuantepec is meant. to the Portuguese Viceroy in India, 2 Here the voyagers surprised a and afterwards fell into English council engaged in the trial of some hands. 3 Wonder, astonishment. Indians accused of trying to burn the
47 SUFFERINGS THROUGH EXTREME COLD. 1579. ] bodies, though we came lately from | removed them, which brought with the extremity of heat, by reason them such extremity and violence whereof we might be more sensible when they came, thattherewas nodeal of the present cold ; insomuch as the ing or resisting against them. In this dead and senseless creatures were as place was no abiding for us ; and to go well affected with it as ourselves : our farther North, the extremity of the meat, as soon as it was removed from cold (which had now utterly discour the fire, would presently in a manner aged our men) would not permit us ; be frozen up, and our ropes and and the winds, directly bent against tackling in few days were grown to us, having once got us under sail that stiffness, that what three men again, commanded us to the South afore were able with them to perform, ward whether we would or no. From now six men, with their best strength the height of 48° in which now we and uttermost endeavour, were hardly were, to 38°, we found the land, by able to accomplish : whereby a sudden coasting along it, to be but low and and great discouragement seized upon reasonably plain ; every hill (whereof the minds of our men, and they were we saw many, but none very high), possessed with a great mislike and though it were in June, and the sun in doubting of any good to be done that his nearest approach unto them, being way. Yet would not our General be covered with snow. In 38° 30′ we discouraged, but as well by comfort fell with a convenient and fit har able speeches, of the Divine Provi bour, and, June 17th, came to anchor dence and of God's loving care over therein, where we continued till the his children, out of the Scriptures, as 23d day of July following. During also by other good and profitable per all which time, notwithstanding it suasions, adding thereto his own was in the height of summer, and so cheerful example, he so stirred them near the sun, yet were we continually up to put on a good courage, and visited with like nipping colds as we to quit themselves like men, to en had felt before ; insomuch that if dure some short extremity to have violent exercises of our bodies, and the speedier comfort, and a little busy employment about our necessary trouble to obtain the greater glory, labours, had not sometimes compelled that every man was throughly armed us to the contrary, we could very with willingness, and resolved to see well have been contented to have kept the uttermost, if it were possible, of about us still our winter clothes, yea what good was to be done that way. (had our necessities suffered us), to The land in that part of America have kept our beds ; neither could bearing farther out into the West we at any time, in whole fourteen than we before imagined, we were days together, find the air so clear as nearer on it than we were aware ; and to be able to take the height of sun yet the nearer still we came unto it, or star. the more extremity of cold did seize And here having so fit occasion uponus. The 5th day of June, we were (notwithstanding it may seem to be forced by contrary winds to run in beside the purpose of writing the his with the shore, which we then first tory of this our voyage), we will a descried, and to cast anchor in a bad little more diligently enquire into the bay, the best road we could for the causes of the continuance of the ex present meet with, where we were not treme cold in these parts, as also into without some danger by reason of the the probabilities or unlikelihoods of many extreme gusts and flaws that a passage to be found that way. beat upon us, which if they ceased and Neither was it (as hath formerly been were still at any time, immediately touched) tenderness of our bodies, upon their intermission there fol coming so lately out of the heat, lowed most vile, thick, and stinking whereby the pores wereopened , that fogs, against which the sea prevailed made us so sensible of the colds we nothing, till the gusts of wind again here felt : in this respect, as in many
48
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
[1579.
others, we found our God a provident | perfecteth the creature with greater Father and careful Physician for us. expedition, and in shorter time than We lacked no outward heips nor in is to be found in many places. ward comforts to restore and fortify As for the causes of this extremity, nature, had it been decayed or weak they seem not to be so deeply hidden ened in us ; neither was there wanting but that they may, at least in part, tous the great experience of our Gene be guessed at. The chief of which we ral, who had often himself proved the conceive to be the large spreading of force of the Burning Zone, whose the Asian and American continent, advice always prevailed much to the which (somewhat Northwardof these preserving of a moderate temper in parts) , if they be not fully joined, yet our constitutions ; so that even after seem they to come very near one to our departure from the heat we always the other. From whose high and found our bodies, not as sponges, but snow-covered mountains the North strong and hardened, more able to and North-west winds (the constant bear out cold, though we came out of visitants of these coasts) send abroad excess of heat, than a number of their frozen Nymphs, to the infecting chamber champions could have been, the whole air with this insufferable who lie on their feather-beds till they sharpness : not permitting the Sun, go to sea, or rather, whose teeth in a no, not in the pride of his heat, to temperate air do beat in their heads dissolve the congealed water and snow at a cup of cold sack and sugar by the which they have breathed out so nigh fire. And that it was not our tender the Sun, and so many degrees distant ness, but the very extremity of the from themselves. And that the North cold itself, that caused this sensible and North-west winds are here con ness in us, may the rather appear, in stant in June and July, as the North that the natural inhabitants of the wind alone is in August and Septem place (with whom we had for a long ber, we not only found by our own season familiar intercourse, as is to be experience, but were fully confirmed related), who had never been ac in the opinion thereof by the con quainted with such heat, to whom tinued observations of the Spaniards. the country, air, and climate was Hence comes the general squalidness proper, and in whom custom of cold and barrenness of the country ; hence was as it were a second nature, yet comes it that in the midst of their used to come shivering to us in their Summer the snow hardly departeth warm furs, crowding close together, even from their very doors, but is body to body, to receive heat one of never taken away from their hills at another, and sheltering themselves all ; hence come those thick mists and under a lee bank, if it were possible, most stinking fogs, which increase so and as often as they could labouring much the more by how much higher to shroud themselves under our gar the Pole is raised : wherein a blind ments also to keep them warm. Be pilot is as good as the best director of sides, how unhandsome and deformed a course. For the Sun striving to appeared the face of the earth itself ! perform his natural office, in elevating showing trees without leaves, and the the vapours out of these inferior ground without greenness, in those bodies, draweth necessarily abundance months of June and July. The poor of moisture out of the sea ; but the birds and fowls not daring (as we had nipping cold, from the former causes, great experience to deserve it) so much meeting and opposing the Sun's en as once to arise from their nests after deavour, forces him to give over his the first egg laid, till it, with all the work imperfect, and, instead of rest, be hatched and brought to some higher elevation, to leavein the lowest strength of nature, able to help itself. ) Only this recompense hath Nature, 1 The nearer one approaches to the afforded them, that the heat of their Pole, causing the North Star to rise.. own bodies being exceeding great, it apparently higher in the heavens..
( 49 PRESENTS FROM THE NATIVES. 1579. ] region, wandering upon the face of the solemnly a long and tedious oration, earth and waters, as it were a second after his manner : using in the de sea, through which its own beams livery thereof many gestures and cannot possibly pierce, unless some signs, moving his hands, turning his times when the sudden violence of head and body many ways ; and the winds doth help to scatter and after his oration ended, with great break through it; which thing hap show of reverence and submission peneth very seldom, and when it returned back to shore again. He happeneth is of no continuance. Some shortly came again the second time of our mariners in this voyage had in like manner, and so the third formerly been at Wardhouse, in 72° time, when he brought with him, as of North latitude, who yet affirmed a present from the rest, a bunch of that they felt no such nipping cold feathers, much like the feathers of a there in the end of the Summer, when blackcrow, very neatly and artificially they departed thence, as they did here gathered upon a string, and drawn in those hottest months of June and together into a round bundle ; being July. And also from these reasons very clean and finely cut, and bearing we conjecture, that either there is no in length an equal proportion one with passage at all through these Northern another : a special cognisance (as we coasts (which is most likely) ; or if afterwards observed) which they that there be, that yet it is unnavigable. guard their King's person wear upon Add hereunto, thatthoughwesearched their heads. With this also he the coast diligently, even unto the brought a little basket made of rushes, forty-eighth degree, yet found we not and filled with an herb which they the land to trend so much as one called " Tabáh. "5 Both which, being point in any place towards the East, tied to a short rod, he cast into our but rather running on continually boat. Our General intended to have North-west, as if it went directly to recompensed him immediately with mect with Asia ; and even in that many good things he would have be height, when we had a frank wind stowed on him ; but entering into the to have carried us through, had there boat to deliver the same, he could not been a passage, yet we had a smooth be drawn to receive them by any and calm sea, with ordinary flowing means, save one hat, which being cast and reflowing, which could not have into the water out of the ship, he took been had there been a frete ;2 of which up (refusing utterly to meddle with we rather infallibly concluded, than any other thing, though it were upon conjectured, that there was none. But a board put off to him), and so pre sently made his return. After which to return. The next day after our coming to time our boat could row no way, but, anchor in the aforesaid harbour, the wondering at us as at gods, they people of the country shewed them would follow the same with admira selves, sending off a man with great tion. expedition to us in a canoe. Who The third day following, viz., the being yet but a little from the shore, 21st, our ship, having received a leak and a great way from our ship, spake at sea, was brought to anchor nearer to us continually as he came rowing the shore, that, her goods being on. And at last at a reasonable dis landed, she might be repaired ; but tance staying himself, he began more for that we were? to prevent any dan ger that might chance against our 1 Wardhys, at the extreme north safety, our General first of all landed his men, with all necessary provision east point of Norway. 2 A narrow passage or contracted channel. Cleverly, skilfully. 5 Tobacco- tabac " in French. The Bay of San Francisco, the Induced, tempted. 6 present prosperous capital of Cali fornia. 7 Were obliged or bound D
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1579. to build tents and make a fort for the which they had received of us, as defence of ourselves and goods, and shirts, linen cloth, & c. , they bestowed that we might under the shelter of it upon our General, and divers of our with more safety (whatever should company, divers things ; as feathers, befall) end our business. Which cauls of network, the quivers of their when the people of the country per arrows, made of fawn-skins, and the ceived us doing, as men set on fire to very skins of beasts that their women war in defence of their country, in wore upon their bodies. Having thus great haste and companies, with such had their fill of this time's visiting weapons as they had, they came down and beholding of us, they departed unto us, and yet with no hostile with joy to their houses ; which meaning or intent to hurt us ; stand houses are digged round within the ing, when they drew near, as men earth, and have from the uppermost ravished in their minds with the brims of the circle clefts of wood set sight of such things as they never had up, and joined close together at the seen or heard of before that time : top, like our spires on the steeple of their errand being rather with sub a church ; which being covered with mission and fear to worship us as gods, earth, suffer no water to enter, and than to have any war with us as are very warın. The door in the most with mortal men. Which thing, as part of them performs the office also it did partly show itself at that in of a chimney to let out the smoke : stant, so did it more and more mani it is made in bigness and fashion like fest itself afterwards, during the whole to an ordinary scuttle in a ship, and time of our abode amongst them. At standing slopewise. Their beds are this time, being willed by signs to lay the hard ground, only with rushes from them their bows and arrows, they strewed upon it, and, lying round did as they were directed ; and so did about the house, have their fire in all the rest, as they came more and the midst, which, by reason that the more by companies unto them, grow house is but low vaulted, round, and ing in a littlewhile to a great number, close, giveth a marvellous reflection bothofmenand women. Totheintent, to their bodies to heat the same. therefore, that this peace which they Their men for the most part go naked ; themselves so willingly sought might, the women take a kind of bulrushes, without anycause ofthe breach thereof and kembing it after the manner of on our part given, be continued, and hemp, make themselves thereof a that we might with more safety and loose garment, which being knit about expedition end our businesses in quiet, their middles, hangs down about their our General, with all his company, hips, and so affords to them a cover used all means possible gently to ing of that which Nature teaches entreat them, bestowing upon each of should be hidden ; about their shoul them liberally good and necessary ders they wear also the skin of a deer, things to cover their nakedness ; with the hair upon it. They are withal signifying unto them that we very obedient to their husbands, and were no gods, but men, and had exceeding ready in all services ; yet need of such things to cover our own of themselves offering to do nothing, shame; teaching them to use them without the consent or being called to the same ends. For which cause of the men. As soon as they were also we did eat and drink in their returned to their houses, they began presence, giving them to understand amongst themselves a kind of most that without that we could not live, lamentable weeping and crying out, and therefore were but men as well which they continued also a great as they. Notwithstanding, nothing while together, in such sort that in could persuade them, nor remove the place where they left us (being that opinion which they had con ceived of us, that we should be gods. 1 Combing it out, or " heckling " In recompense of those things it. 50
51 SACRIFICE MADE TO THE " GODS." 1579 ] near about three-quarters of an Eng- | giving their consents that all was lish mile distant from them) we very very true which he had spoken, and plainly, with wonder and admiration, that they had uttered their mind by did hear the same, the women especi his mouth unto us. Which done, the ally extending their voices in a most men laying down their bows upon miserable and doleful manner of the hill, and leaving their women shrieking. Notwithstanding this and children behind them, came down humble manner of presenting them with their presents ; in such sort as if selves, and awful demeanour used to they had appeared before a God in wards us, we thought it no wisdom too deed, thinking themselves happy that far to trust them (our experience of they might have access unto our former Infidels dealing with us before, General, but much more happy when inade us careful to provide against an they saw that he would receive at alteration of their affections or breach their hands those things which they of peace if it should happen) ; and so willingly had presented : and no therefore with all expedition we set doubt they thought themselves nearest up our tents, and entrenched our unto God when they sat or stood next selves with walls of stone ; that so to him. Inthe meantime the women, being fortified within ourselves, we as if they had been desperate, used might be able to keep off the enemy unnatural violence against them (if they should so prove) from coming selves, crying and shrieking piteously, amongst us without our good wills. tearing their flesh with their nails This being quickly finished, we went from their cheeks in a monstrous the more cheerfully and securely manner, the blood streaming down afterwards about our other business. along their breasts ; besides, despoil Against the end of two days, during ing the upper parts of their bodies of which time they had not been with those single coverings they formerly us again, there was gathered together had, and holding their hands above a great assembly of men, women, and their heads that they might not rescue children (invited by the report of their breasts from harm, they would them which first saw us, who, as it with fury cast themselves upon the seems, had in that time of purpose ground, never respecting whether it dispersed themselves into the country, were clean or soft, but dashed them to make known the news), who came selves in this manner on hard stones, now the second time unto us, bring knobby hillocks, stocks of wood, and ing with them, as before had been"" pricking bushes, or whatever else lay done, feathers and bags of " Tabáh in their way, iterating the same for presents, or rather indeed for sacri course again and again ; yea, women fices, upon this persuasion that we great with child, some nine or ten were gods. When they came to the times each, and others holding out top of the hill, at the bottom whereof till fifteen or sixteen times, till their we had built our fort, they made a strength failed them, exercised this stand ; where one, appointed as their cruelty against themselves : a thing chief speaker, wearied both us his more grievous for us to see or suffer, hearers, and himself too, with a long could we have help¹ it, than trouble and tedious oration, delivered with to them, as it seemed, to do it. This strange and violent gestures, his voice bloody sacrifice, against our wills, being extended to the uttermost being thus performed, our General, strength of nature, and his words with his company, in the presence of falling so thick one in the neck of those strangers, fell to prayers ; and another, that he could hardly fetch by signs in lifting up our eyes and his breath again. As soon as he had hands to heaven, signified unto them concluded, all the rest, with a rever that that God whom we did serve, ent bowing of their bodies (in a and whom they ought to worship, dreaming manner, and long producing 1 Helped, prevented. of the same) cried " Oh : " thereby
52
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
[1579. was above beseeching God , if it were | fied their desire ; and they, glad men, His good pleasure, to open by some made speedy return to their " Hióh ." means their blinded eyes, that they Neither was it long before their King might in due time be called to the (making as princely a show as pos knowledge of Him, the true and sibly he could) with all his train came everlasting God, and of Jesus Christ forward. In their coming forwards whom He hath sent, the salvation of they cried continually after a singing the Gentiles. In the time of which manner, with a lusty courage. And prayers, singing of Psalms, and read as they drew nearer and nearer to ing of certain chapters in the Bible, wards us, so did they more and more they sat very attentively : and observ strive to behave themselves with a ing the end at every pause, with one certain comeliness and gravity in all voice still cried " Oh," greatly rejoic their actions. In the forefront came ing in our exercises. Yea, they took a man of a large body and goodly such pleasure in our singing of Psalms, aspect, bearing the sceptre or royal that whensoever they resorted to us, mace (made of a certain kind of black their first request was commonly this, wood, and in length about a yard and "Gnaáh, " by which they entreated a half), before the King. Whereupon that we would sing. Our General hung two crowns, a bigger and a having now bestowed upon them less, with three chains of a marvellous divers things, at their departure they length, and often doubled, besides a restored them all again, none carry bag of the herb " Tabáh. " The ing with him anything of whatsoever crowns were made ofnetwork, wrought he had received, thinking themselves upon most curiously with feathers of sufficiently enriched and happy that divers colours, very artificially placed, they had found so free access to see us. and of a formal fashion. The chains Against the end of three days seemed of a bony substance, every more (the news having the while link or part thereof being very little, spread itself farther, and as it thin, most finely burnished, with a seemed a great way up into the coun hole pierced through the midst. The try), were assembled the greatest number of links going to make one number of people which we could chain is in a manner infinite ; but of reasonably imagine to dwell within such estimation is it amongst them, any convenient distance round about. that few be the persons that are ad Amongst the rest the King himself, mitted to wear the same ; and even a man of a goodly stature and a comely they to whom it is lawful to use personage, attended with his guard of them, yet are stinted what number about 100 tall and warlike men, they shall use, as some ten, some this day, June 26th, came down to see twelve, some twenty, and as they us. Before his coming, were sent exceed in number of chains, so there. two ambassadors or messengers to our by are they known to be the more General, to signify that their " Hióh, " honourable personages. Next unto him that bare this that is, their King, was coming and at hand. They in the delivery of sceptre was the King himself, with his their message, the one spake with a guard about him ; his attire upon his soft and low voice, prompting his head was a caul¹ of network, wrought fellow ; the other pronounced the upon somewhat like the crowns, but same, word by word, after him with differing much both in fashion and a voice more audible, continuing their perfectness of work ; upon his shoul proclamation, for such it was, about ders he had on a coat of the skins of half an hour. Which being ended, conies, reaching to his waist ; his they by signs made request to our guard also had each coats of the same General to send something by their shape, but of other skins ; some hands to their " Hióh " or King, as a having cauls likewise stuck with token that his coming might be in 1 Cowl , cap. peace. Our General willingly satis
53 A VISIT FROM THE KING. 1579. ] feathers, or coveted over with a cer- | the matted down of red feathers, dis tain down, which groweth up in the tinguished into divers works and country upon an herb much like our forms. ettuce, which exceeds any other In the mean time, our General down in the world for fineness, and having assembled his men together (as being laid upon their cauls, by no forecasting the danger and worst that winds can be removed. Of such esti might fall out) prepared himself to mation is this herb amongst them, stand upon sure ground, that we might that the down thereof is not lawful to atall timesbe readyin our own defence, be worn, but of such persons as are if any thing should chance otherwise about the King (to whom also it is than was looked for or expected. permitted to wear a plume of feathers Wherefore every man being in a war on their heads in sign of honour), and like readiness, he marched within his the seeds are notused but only in sacri fenced place, making against their fice to their gods. After these in their approach a most warlike show (as he order did follow the naked sort of com did also at all other times of their re mon people, whose hair, being long, sort), whereby if they had been des was gathered into a bunch behind, in perate enemies they could not have which stuck plumes of feathers ; but chosen but have conceived terror and in the forepart only single feathers fear, with discouragement to attempt like horns, every one pleasing him anything against us, in beholding of self in his own device. This one the same. When they were come somewhat thing was observed to be general amongst them all, that every one near unto us, trooping together they had his face painted, some with white, gave us a common or general saluta some black, and some with other tion, observing in the mean time a colours, every man also bringing in general silence. Whereupon, he who his hand one thing or other for a gift bare the sceptre before the King, be or present. Their train or last part ing prompted by another whom the of their company consisted of women King assigned to that office, pro and children, each woman bearing nounced with an audible and manly against her breast a round basket or voice what the other spake to him in two, having within them divers secret, continuing, whether it were things, as bags of " Tabáh," a root his oration or proclamation, at the which they call " Petah, " whereof least half an hour. At the close they make a kind of meal and either whereof there was a common “ Amen” bake it into bread or eat it raw ; in sign of approbation given by every broiled fishes, like a pilchard ; the person : and the King himself, with seed and down aforenamed ; with the whole number of men and women such like. Their baskets were made (the little children only remaining be in fashion like a deep bowl, and hind), came further down the hill, though the matter were rushes, or and as they came set themselves again such other kind of stuff, yet was it so in their former order. And being cunningly handled, that the most now come to the foot of the hill and part ofthem would hold water : about near our fort, the sceptre-bearer, with the brims they were hung with pieces a composed countenance and stately of the shells of pearls, and in some carriage, began a song, and answer places with two or three links at a able thereunto observed a kind of place of the chains forenamed : there measures in a dance : whom the by signifying that they were vessels King with his guard and every other wholly dedicated to the only use of sort of person following, did in like the gods they worshipped, and be manner sing and dance, saving only sides this they were wroughtupon with the women, who danced but kept silence. As they danced they still came on : and our General, perceiving 1 Probably the potato, their plain and simple meaning, gave * Sole,
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 54 [1579. order that they might freely enter to come. Wherefore, in the name without interruption within our bul and to the use of Her most excellent wark. Where after they had entered, Majesty, he took the sceptre, crown, they yet continued their song and and dignity of the said country into dance a reasonable time, their women his hand ; wishing nothing more also following them with their was than that it had lain so fitly for Her sail bowls in their hands, their bodies Majesty to enjoy, as it was now her bruised, their faces torn, their dugs, proper own, and that the riches and breasts, and other parts bespotted treasures thereof (wherewith in the up with blood, trickling down from the land countries it abounds) might with wounds which with their nails they as great conveniency be transported, had made before their coming After to the enriching of her kingdom here that they had satisfied or rather tired at home, as it is in plenty to be at themselves in this manner, they made tained there ; and especially that so signs to our General to have him sit tractable and loving a people as they down ; unto whom both the King shewed themselves to be might have and divers others made several ora means to have manifested their most tions, or rather, indeed, if we had un willing obedience the more unto her, derstood them, supplications, that he and by her means, as a Mother and would take the province and king Nurse of the Church of Christ, might dom into his hand, and become their by the preaching of the Gospel be king and patron : making signs that brought to the right knowledge and they would resign unto him their obedience of the true and ever-living right and title in the whole land, and God. The ceremonies of this resign become his vassals in themselves and ing and receiving of the kingdom be their posterities : which that they ing thus performed, the common sort, might make us indeed believe that it both of men and women, leaving the was their true meaning and intent, the King and his guard about him, the King himself, with all the rest, with our General, dispersed them. with one consent and with great re selves among our people, taking a verence, joyfully singing a song, set diligent view or survey of every man ; the crown upon his head, enriched and finding such as pleased their his neck with all their chains, and fancies (which commonly were the offering him many things, honoured youngest of us), they presently en "" him by the name of " Hióh.' Ad closing them about offered their sacri ding thereunto, as it might seem, a fices unto them, crying out with song and dance of triumph, because lamentable shrieks and moans, weep they were not only visited of the ing and scratching and tearing their gods (for so they still judged us to very flesh of their faces with their be) but the great and chief god was nails ; neither were it the women now become their god, their king and alone which did this, but even old patron, and themselves were become men, roaring and crying out, were as We the only happy and blessed people in violent as the women were. the world. groaned in spirit to see the power of These things being so freely offered, Satan so far prevail in seducing these our General thought not meet to re so harmless souls, and laboured by ail sign or refuse the same, both for that means, both by showing our great he would not give them any cause of dislike, and, when that served not, by mistrust or disliking of him (that be violent withholding of their hands ing the only place wherein at this from that madness ; directing them, present we were of necessity enforced by our eyes and hands lift up towards to seek relief of many things), and heaven, to the living God whom chiefly for that he knew not to what they ought to serve. But so mad good end God had brought this to were they upon their idolatry, that pass, or what honour and profit it forcibly withholding them would not might bring to our country in time prevail ; for as soon as they could
55 COURTED BY THE NATIVES. 1579. ] get liberty to their hands again they to perform the office of a father to would be as violent as they were be wards them, relieving them with such fore, till such time as they whom victuals as we had provided for our they worshipped were conveyed from selves, as mussels, seals, and such them into the tents ; whom yet, as like, wherein they took exceeding men beside themselves, they would much content ; and seeing that their with fury and outrage seek to have sacrifices were displeasing unto us, again. yet (having gratitude) they sought to After that time had a little qualified recompense us with such things as their madness, they then began to they had, which they willingly forced show and make known unto us their upon us, though it were never so griefs and diseases which they necessary or needful for themselves to carried about them ; some of them keep. They are people of a tractable, having old aches, some shrunk sinews, free, and loving nature, without some old sores and cankered ulcers, guile or treachery ; their bows and some wounds more lately received, arrows (their only weapons, and al and the like : in most lamentable most all their wealth) they use very manner craving help and cure thereof skilfully, but yet not to do any great from us, making signs, that if we did harm with them, being by reason of but blow upon their griefs, or but their weakness more fit for children touched the diseased places, they than for men, sending the arrows would be whole. Their griefs wecould neither far off nor with any great not but take pity on them, and to force : and yet are the men commonly our power desire to help them ; but so strong of body, that that which that (if it pleased God to open their two or three of our men could hardly eyes) they might understand we were bear, one of them would take upon but men and no gods, we used ordin his back, and without grudging carry ary means, as lotions, plasters, and it easily away, up hill and down hill, unguents, most fitly, as far as our an English mile together. They are skills could guess, agreeing to the also exceeding swift in running, and natures of their griefs ; beseeching of long continuance, the use whereof God, if it made for his glory, to give is so familiar with them, that they cure to their diseases by these means. seldom go, but for the most part run. The like we did from time to time as One thing we observed in them with they resorted unto us. Few were the admiration, that if at any time they days wherein they were absent from chanced to see a fish so near the shore us, during the whole time of our that they might reach the place with abode in that place ; and ordinarily out swimming, they would never, or every third day they brought their very seldom, miss to take it. sacrifices, till such time as they cer After that our necessary businesses tainly understood our meaning, that were well despatched, our General, we took no pleasure but were dis with his gentlemen and many of his pleased with them ; whereupon their company, made a journey up into the zeal abated, and their sacrificing, for land, to see the manner of their dwell a season, to our good liking ceased. ing, and to be the better acquainted Notwithstanding they continued still with the nature and commodities to make their resort unto us in great of the country. Their houses were abundance, and in such sort, that all such as we have formerly describ they oftentimes forgot to provide ed, and being many of them in one meat for their own sustenance, so place, made several villages here and that our General (of whom they there. The inland we found to be made account as of a father) was fain | far different from the shore, a goodly country and fruitful soil, stored with 1 Used here, of course, in the mere many blessings fit for the use of man. ly physical sense of pain, or wound, Infinite was the company of very large and fat deer which there we saw by or sore.
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DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
thousands, as we supposed, in a herd ; besides a multitude of a strange kind of conies, by far exceed ing hem in number. The head and body, in which they resemble other conies, are but small ; his tail, like the tail of a rat, exceeding long, and his feet like the paws of a want or mole ; under his chin, on either side, he hath a bag, into which he gathereth his meat, when he hath filled his belly abroad, that he may with it either feed his young, or feed himself when he lists not to travel from his burrow. The people eat their bodies, and make great account of their skins, for their King's holi day coat was made of them.¹ This country our General named Albion, 2 and that for two causes : the one in respect of the white banks and cliffs which lie towards the sea ; the other, that it might have some affin ity, even in name also, with our own country, which was sometimes so called. Before we went from thence, our General caused to be set up a monument of our being there, as also of Her Majesty's and successor's right and title to that kingdom : namely, a plate of brass, fast nailed to a great and firm post, whereon is engraven her Grace's name, and the day and year of our arrival there, and of the free giving up of the province and kingdom, both by the King and peo ple, into Her Majesty's hands ; to gether with Her Highness' picture and arms, in a piece of sixpence cur rent English money, showing itself
[1579. by a hole made of purpose through the plate ; underneath was bkewise engraven the name of our General, &c. The Spaniards never had any dealing, or so much as set a foot in this coun try, the utmost of their discoveries reaching only to many degrees south ward of this place.3 And now as the time of our depar ture was perceived by them to draw nigh, so did the sorrows and miseries of this people seem to themselves to increase upon them, and the more certain they were of our going away, the more doubtful they showed them selves what they might do so that we might easily judge that that joy (being exceeding great) wherewith they received us at our first arrival, was clean drowned in their excessive sorrow for our departing. For they did not only lose on a sudden all mirth, joy, glad countenance, pleasant speeches, agility of body, familiar re joicing one with another, and all pleasure whatever flesh and blood might be delighted in, but with sighs and sorrowings, with heavy hearts and grieved minds, they poured out woeful complaints and moans, with bitter tears and wringing of their hands, tormenting themselves. And as men refusing all comfort they only accounted themselves as castaways, and those whom the gods were about to forsake so that nothing we could say or do was able to ease them of their so heavy a burthen, or to de liver them from so desperate a strait, as our leaving of them did seem to them that it would cast them into.
1 Captain Beechey, in his " Voyage to the Pacific, " says that the fields about San Francisco are burrowed by a small rat resembling the field mouse, by a larger mountain rat, and by another little animal resembling a squirrel, called the " ardillo, " which is excellent eating. The coney de scribed by Drake is thought to an swer most closely to the Canada pouched rat, or Mus barsarius. 2 More correctly, New Albion ; the whiteness of the cliffs, which suggest ed the name to Drake, has been noted by subsequent voyagers,
3 This is a mistake, for Juan Rodri guez Cabrillo, a Portuguese by birth, had by command of the Viceroy of New Spain explored the same coast thirty-seven years before. Indeed, some English editors have shown a decided inclination to take a very liberal discount from Mr Fletcher's eloquent and elaborate account of the doings in California--so much in contrast with the meagre details he gives of such really important in cidents as the combat with and cap ture of the Cacafuego ,
57 DEPARTURE FROM THE CALIFORNIAN COAST. 1579. ] Howbeit, seeing they could not still having nothing in our view but air enjoy our presence, they (supposing and sea, without sight of any land us to be gods indeed) thought it their for the space of full sixty-eight days duty to entreat us that, being absent, together, we continued our course we would yet be mindful of them ; through the main Ocean, till Septem and making signs of their desires ber 30th 2 following, on which day that in time to come we would see we fell in ken of certain islands lying them again, they stole upon us a sacri about eight degrees to the Northward fice, and set it on fire ere we were of the Line. From these islands, aware, burning therein a chain and a presently upon the discovery of us, bunch of feathers. We laboured by came a great number of canoes, hav all means possible to withhold or ing in each of them in some four, in withdraw them, but could not pre some six, in some fourteen or fifteen vail, till at last we fell to prayers and men, bringing with them cocoas, fish, singing of Psalms, whereby they were potatoes, and certain fruits to small allured immediately to forget their purpose. Their canoes were made folly, and leave their sacrifice uncon after the fashion that the canoes of sumed, suffering the fire to go out ; all the rest of the Islands of Moluccas and imitating us in all our actions, for the most are, that is, of one tree, they fell a-lifting of their eyes and hollowed within with great art and hands to heaven, as they saw us do. cunning, being made so smooth, both The 23d ofJuly they took a sorrow within and without, that they bore ful farewell of us ; but, being loth to a gloss as if it were a harness most leave us, they presently ran to the finely burnished. A prow and stern top of the hills to keep us in their they had of one fashion, yielding in sight so long as they could, making ward in manner of a semicircle, of a fires before and behind and on each great height, and hung full of certain side of them, burning therein (as is white and glistening shells for bra to be supposed) sacrifices at our de very on each side of their canoes parture. lay out two pieces of timber, about a Not far without this harbour did yard and a half long, more or less lie certain islands (we called them the according to the capacity of their Islands of Saint James), ¹ having on boat. At the end whereof was fastened them plentiful and great store of seals crosswise a great cane, the use where and birds, with one of which we fell of was to keep their canoes from over July 24th, whereon we found such throwing, and that they might be provision as might competently serve equally borne up on each side our turn for a while. We departed The people themselves have the again the day next following, July nether parts of their ears cut round 25th. And our General now consider or circle-wise, hanging down very low ing that the extremity of the cold not upon their cheeks, wherein they hang only continued, but increased, the things of a reasonable weight. The Sun being gone farther from us, and that the wind blowing still, as it did 2 By another account, the 13th of at first, from the North-west, cut off October. The islands were doubtless all hope of finding a passage through some of the Caroline group, which lay these Northern parts, thought it inthedirecttrack from Drake's Califor necessary to lose no time ; and there nianharbour-whether San Francisco fore, with general consent of all, bent or Port Sir Francis Drake under Punta his course directly to run with the de los Reyes to the North--to the Islands of the Moluccas. And so Moluccas. 3 Of little value or consequence. 4 Adornment. 1 The three Farallons, North, Mid 5 dle, and South, which lie about a Compare Dampier's minute de day's sail to the Westward of the Gol scription of similar craft at Guam ; den Gate. Chapter X.
58 DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1579. nails on the fingers of some of them | panies (but all of the same mind) con were at least an inch long, and their tinually made resort unto us. And teeth as black as pitch, the colour seeing that there was no good to be whereof they use to renew by often got by violence, they put on a show eating of an herb, with a kind of pow- of seeming honesty ; and offering in der, which in a cane they carry about show to deal with us by way of ex them to the same purpose. The first change, under the pretence they cun sort and company of those canoes ningly fell a-filching of what they being come to our ship (which then, could, and one of them pulled a dagger by reason of a scant wind, made little and knives from one of our men's way) very subtilely and against their girdles, and being required to restore natures began in peace to traffic with it again, he rather used what means us, giving us one thing for another he could to catch at more. Neither very orderly, intending (as we per- could we at all be rid of this ungra ceived) hereby to work a greater mis- cious company, till we made some of chief to us ; entreating us by signs them feel some smart as well as terror ; most earnestly to draw nearer towards and so we left that place, by all pas the shore, that they might, if possible, sengers to be known hereafter by the make the easier prey both of the ship name of the Island of Thieves. Till the 3d of October we could not and us. But these passing away, and others continually resorting, we were get clear of these consorts, but from thence we continued our course quickly able to guess at them what they were ; for if they received any within sight of land till the 16th of thing once into their hands, they the same month, when we fell with would neither give recompense nor four Islands standing in 7° 5' to the restitution of it, but thought what Northward of the Line. We coasted ever they could finger to be their own, them till the 21st day, and then an expecting always with brows of brass chored and watered upon the biggest to receive more, but would part with of them, called Mindanao. The 22d nothing. Yea, being rejected for of October, as we passed between two their bad dealing, as those with whom islands, about six or eight leagues we would have no more to do, using south of Mindanao, ¹ there came from us so evilly, they could not be satis them two canoes to be talked with fied till they had given the attempt us, and we would willingly be talked to revenge themselves because we with them, but there arose so much would not give them whatsoever they wind that put us from them to the would have for nothing and having Southwards. October the 25th we stones good store in their canoes, let passed by the island named Talao, 2 fly amain of them against us. It was in 3° 40'. We saw to the northward far from our General's meaning to of it three or four other islands, Teda, requite their malice by like injury. Selan, Saran (three islands so named Yet that they might know that he to usby an Indian), the middle where had power to do them harm if he had of stands in 3°. We passed the last listed, he caused a great piece to be shot off, not to hurt them, but to 1 Supposed to be Serangan and Can affright them. Which wrought the digar, or the Saddle Islands, South of desired effect amongst them ; for at the southernmost point of Mindanao. the noise thereof they every one leap Other narrators name the islands of ed out of his canoe into the water, 66 Tagulada, Zelon, and Zewarra, " as and, diving under the keel of their passed by the voyagers on their way boats, stayed them from going any to the Moluccas, the first producing way till our ship was gone a good way much cinnamon, and the inhabitants from them. Then they all lightly re of all being friendly with the Portu covered into their canoes, and got guese. them with speed toward the shore. 2 The Tulour Islands, about half Notwithstanding, other new com way between Mindinao and Gilolo,
59 1579.1 MOLUCCA OR SPICE ISLANDS. save one of these, and the first day of | ing should be in peace, and that he the following month in like manner required no other thing at his hands, we passed the isle Suaro, in 1 ° 30′, but that (his victuals being spent in and the 3d of November we came in so long a voyage) he might have sup sight of the Islands of the Moluccas, ply from him by way of traffic and as we desired. These are four high exchange of merchandise (whereof he peaked islands : their names, Ternate, had store of divers sorts) of such Tidore, Matchan, Batchan, all of things as he wanted . Which he them very fruitful and yielding abund thought he might be the bolder to ance of cloves, whereof we furnished require at his hands, both for that ourselves of as much as we desired at the thing was lawful, and that he a very cheap rate. At the east of offered him no prejudice or wrong them lies a very great island called therein ; as also because he was en Gilolo. treated to repair to the place by his We directed our course to have Viceroy at Motir, who assured him of gone to Tidore, but in coasting along necessary provision in such manner a little island¹ belonging to the King as now he required the same. Before this the Viceroy, according of Ternate, November 4th, his deputy or viceroy with all expedition came to his promise, had been with the off to our ship in a canoe, and without King, signifying unto him what a any fear or doubting of our good mighty Prince and Kingdom we be meaning camepresentlyaboard. Who, longed to ; what good things the King after some conference with our Gen might receive from us, not only now, eral, entreated him by any means to but for hereafter by way of traffic : run with Ternate, not with Tidore : Yea what honour and benefit it might assuring him that his King would be be to him, to be in league and in wondrous glad of his coming, and be friendship with so noble and famous ready to do for him what he could, a Prince as we served ; and farther, and what our General in reason should what a discouragement it would be to require. For which purpose he him the Portuguese his enemies to hear and self would that night be with his King see it. In hearing whereof the King to carry him the news ; with whom was so presently moved to the well if he once dealt, he should find that liking of the matter, that before our as he was a King, so his word should messenger could come half the way, he stand whereas if he dealt with the had sent the Viceroy, with divers Portuguese, who had the command of others of his nobles and councillors, Tidore, he should find in them no to our General, with special message thing but deceit and treachery. And that he should not only have what besides that if he went to Tidore be things he needed, or would require, fore he came to Ternate, then would with peace and friendship, but that his King have nothing to do with us, he would willingly entertain amity for he held the Portuguese as an with so famous and renowned a enemy. On these persuasions our Princess as was ours ; and that if it General resolved to run with Ternate, seemed good in her eyes to accept of where the next day, very early in the it, he would sequester the commodi morning, we came to anchor : and ties and traffic of his whole island from presently our General sent a messen others (especially from his enemies ger to the King with a velvet cloak, the Portuguese, from whom he had re for a present and token that his com nothing but by the sword), and serve it to the intercourse of our nation, if we would embrace it. In 1 The island of Motir. " They had been expelled from their token whereof he had now sent to our settlements at Ternate by the war General his signet, and would within like monarch whose friendship was short time after come in his own per offered to Drake, and had established son, with his brethren and nobles, with boats or canoes, into our ship, themselves at Tidore.
60
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
and be a means of bringing her into a safer harbour. While they were delivering their message to us, our messenger was come unto the Court, who being met by the way by certain noble personages, was with great solemnity conveyed into the King's presence ; at whose hands he was most friendly and graciously enter tained ; and having delivered his errand, together with his present unto the King, the King seemed to him to judge himself blameworthy that he had not sooner hastened in person to present himself to our General, who came so far and from so great a Prince ; and presently, with all expedition, he made ready him self, with the chief of all his States and Councillors, to make repair unto us. The manner of his coming, as it was princely, so truly it seemed to us very strange and marvellous : serving at the present not so much to set out his own royal and Kingly state (which was great) as to do honour to Her Highness, to whom we be longed ; wherein how willingly he employed himself, the sequel will make manifest. First, therefore, before his coming, did he send off three great and large canoes, in each whereof were certain of the greatest personages that were about him, attired all of them in white lawn, or cloth of Calicut, having over their heads, from one end of the canoe to the other, a covering of thin and fine mats, borne up by a frame made of reeds, under which every man sat in order according to his dig nity ; the hoary heads of many of them set forth the greater reverence due to their persons, and manifestly showed that the King used the advice of a grave and prudent Council in his affairs. Besides these were divers others, young and comely men, a great number attired in white, as were the other, but with manifest differ ences : having their places also under the same covering, but in inferior order, as their calling required. The rest of the men were soldiers, who stood in comely order round about on both sides ; on the outside of whom,
[1579. again, did sit the rowers, in certain gal leries, which being three on each side all alongst the canoe, did lie off from the side thereof some three or four yards, one being orderly builded lower than the other : in every of which galleries was an equal number of banks, whereon did sit the rowers, about the number of fourscore in one canoe. In the forepart of each canoe sat two men, the one holding a ta brel, ¹ the other a piece of brass, where on they both at once struck ; and observing a due time and reasonable space between each stroke, by the sound thereof directed the rowers to keep their stroke with their oars : as, on the contrary, the rowers ending their stroke with a song, gave warning to the others to strike again ; and so continued they their way with mar vellous swiftness. Neither were their canoes naked or unfurnished of war like munition ; they had each of them at least one small cast piece, of about a yard in length, mounted upon a stock which was set upright ; besides, every man except the rowers had his sword, dagger, and target, and some of them some other weapons, 2 as lances, calivers, bows, arrows, and many darts. These canoes, coming near our ship in order, rowed round about us one after another ; and the men, as they passed by us, did us a kind of homage with great solemnity, the greatest personages beginning first, with rev erent countenance and behaviour, to bow their bodies even to the ground : which done, they put their own mes senger aboard us again, and signified to us that their King, who himself was coming, had sent them before him to conduct our ship into a better road, desiring a hawser to be given them forth, that they might employ their service, as their King com manded, in towing our ship there with to the place assigned. The King himself was not far behind, but he also with six grave and ancient fathers in his canoe approach ing, did at once, together with them,
1 A small drum.
2 Guns.
61 KING OF TERNATE. morrow following, we received what was there to be had in the way of traffic, to wit, rice in pretty quantity, hens, sugar-canes, imperfect and liquid sugar, a fruit which they call Figo (Magellan calls it a fig of a span long, but it is no other than that which the Spaniards and Portuguese have named Plantains), cocoas, and a kind of meal which they call sago, made of the tops of certain trees, tasting in the mouth like sour curds, but melts away like sugar ; whereof they make a kind of cake which will keep good at least ten years. Of this last we made the greatest quantity of our provision : for a few cloves we did also traffic, whereof, for a small mat ter, we might have had greater store than we could well tell where to be stow: but our General's care was, that the ship should not be too much pestered or annoyed therewith. At the time appointed, our General, having set all things in order to re ceive him, looked for the King's re turn ; who, failing both in time and promise, sent his brother to make his excuse, and to entreat our General to come on shore, his brother being the while to remain on board, as a pawn for his safe restoring. Our General could willingly have consented, if the King himself had not first broken his word: the consideration whereof bred an utter disliking in the whole company, who by no means would give consent he should hazard himself, especially for that the King's brother had uttered certain words, in secret confi dence with our General aboard his cabin, which bred no small suspicion of ill intent. Our General being thus resolved not to go ashore at this time, reserved the Viceroy for a pledge, and so sent certain of his gentlemen to the Court, both to accompany the King's brother, and also with special message to the King himself. They, being come somewhat near unto the castle, were received by another brother of the King's, and certain 1 Fuller-" Holy State, " page 12799 others of the greatest states, and con ducted with great honour towards the -calls him "atruegentleman Pagan. castle, where being brought into a 2 Magnificence, splendid show. Paid a similar visit. large and fair house, they saw gathered
A VISIT FROM THE 1579. ] yield us a reverent kind of obeisance, in far more humble manner than was to be expected. He was of a tall stature, ¹ very corpulent and well set together, of a very princely and graci ous countenance : his respect amongst his own was such, that neither his Viceroy of Motir aforenamed, nor any other of his councillors, durst speak unto him but upon their knees, not rising again till they were licensed. Whose coming, as it was to our Gene ral no small cause of good liking, so was he received in the best manner we could, answerable unto his state ; our ordnance thundered, which we mixed with great store of small shot, among which sounding our trumpets and other instruments of music, both of still and loud noise ; wherewith he was so much delighted, that request ing our music to come into the boat, he joined his canoe to the same, and was towed at least a whole hour to gether, with the boat at the stern of our ship. Besides this, our General sent him such presents as he thought might bothrequite his courtesy already received, and work a further confirma tion of that good liking and friend ship already begun. The King being thus in musical paradise, and enjoy ing that wherewith he was so highly pleased, his brother, named Moro, with no less bravery 2 than any of the rest, accompanied also with a great number of gallant followers, made the like repair, 3 and gave us like respect ; and, his homage done, he fell astern of us till we came to anchor : neither did our General leave his courtesy unrewarded, but bountifully pleased him also before we parted. The King, as soon as we were come to anchor, craved pardon to be gone, and so took leave, promising us that the next day he would come aboard, and in the mean time would prepare and send such victuals as were requi site and necessary for our provision. Accordingly the same night, and the
62
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
together a great multitude of people, by supposition at least 1000 , the chief whereof were placed round about the house, according, as it seemed, to their degrees and calling : the rest remained without. The house was in form four-square, covered all over with cloth of divers colours, not much unlike our usual pentadoes,1 borne upon a frame of reeds, the sides being open from the groundsill to the covering, and furnished with seats round about it seems it was their Council-house, and not commonly employed to any other use. At the side of this house, next unto the Castle, was seated the chair of state, having directly over it, and extending very largely every way, a very fair and rich canopy, as the ground also, for some ten or twelve paces ' compass, was covered with cloth of Arras. Whilst our gentlemen awaited in this place the coming of the King, which was about the space of half-an-hour, they had the better opportunity to observe these things ; as also that before the King's coming there were already set threescore noble, grave, and ancient personages, all of them reported to be of the King's privy council. At the nether end of the house were placed a great company of young men, of comely personage and attire. Without the house, on the right side, stood four ancient, comely, hoar-headed men, clothed all in red downto theground, butattired on their heads not much unlike the Turks. These theycalled Romans, or strangers, who lay as lidgiers, " there to keep 1 Canopies, tents. 2 Resident or permanent ambassa dors ; the word is spelled"" in various"" other ways, as " leger, "ligier,' " legier ; " it comes from the Anglo Saxon " leigan," to lie or remain ; and the word " ledger, " a book that lies to receive entries, is from the same source. In " Measure for Measure," Isabella, informing her brother of his impending death, says : " Lord Angelo, having affairs to heaven, Intends you for his swift ambassador, Where you shall be an everlasting leiger."
[1579.
perpetual traffic with the people : there were also two Turks, one Italian, as lidgiers, and last ofall one Spaniard, who being freed by the King out of the hands of the Portuguese, in the recovering of the island, served him now instead of a soldier. The King at last coming from the castle, with eight or ten grave Sena tors following him, had a very rich canopy, adorned in the midst with embossings of gold, borne over him, and was guarded with twelve lances, the points turned downwards. Our men, accompanied with Moro the King's brother, arose to meet him, and he very graciously did welcome and entertain them. He was for per son such as we have before described him, of low voice, temperate in speech, of kingly demeanour, and a Moor by nation. His attire was after the fashion of the rest of his country, but far more sumptuous, as his condition and state required : from the waist to the ground was all cloth of gold, and that very rich ; his legs bare, but on his feet a pair of shoes of cordovan, dyed red ; in the attire of his head were finely wreathed-in divers rings of plated gold, of an inch or an inch and a-half in breadth, which made a fair and princely show, somewhat re sembling a crown in form ; about his neck he had a chain of perfect gold, the links very great and one fold double. On his left hand were a diamond, an emerald, a ruby, and a turquoise, four very fair and perfect jewels ; on his right hand, in one ring, a big and perfect turquoise, and in another ring many diamonds of a smaller size, very artificially set and couched together. As thus he sat in his chair of state, at his right side there stood a page with a very costly fan, richly embroidered and beset with sapphires, breathing and gather ing the air to refresh the King, the place being very hot, both by reason of the sun, and the assembly of so great a multitude. After a while, our gentlemen, having delivered their message, and received answer, were licensed to depart, and were safely conducted back again, by one of the
1579. ] A CHINAMAN Chiefs of the King's Council, who had charge from the King himself to perform the same. Our gentlemen, observing the castle as well as they could, could not con ceive it to be a place of any great force ; two cannons only there they saw, and those at that present untra versable, because unmounted. These, with all other furniture of like sort which they have, they have gotten them from the Portuguese, by whom the castle itself was also builded, while they inhabited that place and island . Who seeking to settle tyrannous government (as in other places so) over this people, and not contenting themselves with a better estate than they deserved (except they might, as they thought, make sure work by leaving none of the Royal blood alive, who should make challenge to the kingdom), cruelly murdered the King himself-father to him who nowreigns -and intended the like to all his sons. Which cruelty, instead of esta blishing brought such a shaking on their usurped estate, that they were fain without covenanting to carry away goods, munition, or anything else, to quit the place and the whole island, to save their lives. For the present King, with his brethren, in revenge of their father's murder, so bestirred themselves, that the Portu guese were wholly driven from the island, and glad that he yet keeps footing in Tidore. These four years this King hath been increasing, and was (as was affirmed) at that present, Lord of an Hundred Islands there about, and was even now preparing his forces to hazard a chance with the Portuguese for Tidore itself. The people are Moors, whose religion con sists much in certain superstitious observations of new moons, and cer tain seasons, with a rigid and strict kind of fasting. We had experience hereof in the Viceroy and his retinue, who lay aboard us all the time for the most part during our abode in this place ; who during their prescribed time would neither eat nor drink, not so much as a cup of cold water in the day (so zealous are they in their self
63 AT TERNATE. devised worship), but yet in the night would eat three times, and that very largely. This Ternate stands in 27' North latitude. While we rode at anchor in the harbour at Ternate, besides the na tives there came aboard us another, a goodly gentleman, very well accom panied, with his interpreter, to view our ship and to confer with our Gene ral. He was apparelled much after our manner, most neat and court-like, his carriage the most respective and full of discreet behaviour that ever we had seen. He told us that he was himself but a stranger in those islands, being a natural of the province of Paghia in China ; his name Pausaos, of the family of Hombu ; of which family there had eleven reigned in continual succession these 200 years, and King Bonog, by the death of his elder brother-who died by a fall from his horse--the rightful heir of all China, is the twelfth of this race. He is twenty-two years of age ; his mother yet living ; he hath a wife, and by her one son ; he is well-be loved and highly-honoured of all his subjects, and lives in great peace from any fear of foreign invasion. But it was not this man's fortune to enjoy his part of this happiness, both of his King and country, as he most desired. For being accused of a capital crime, whereof though free, yet he could not evidently make his innocence appear, and knowing the peremptory justice of China to be irrevocable, if he should expect the sentence of the Judges ; he beforehand made suit to his King, that it would please him to commit his trial to God's provi dence and judgment, and to that end to permit him to travel, on this con dition, that if he brought not home some worthy intelligence, such as His Majesty had never had before, and were most fit to be known, and most honourable for China, he should for ever live an exile, or else die for daring to set foot again in his own country ; for he was assured that the God of heaven had care of innocency. 1 Guiltless.
2 Await.
64
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1579. The King granted his suit, and now | by some called Quinzai, which is the he had been three years abroad ; and chief city of all China, they had brass at this present came from Tidore ordnance of all sorts (much easier to (where he had remained two months), be traversed than ours were, and so to see the English General, of whom perfectly made that they would hit a he heard such strange things, and shilling) above 2000 years ago. With from him (if it pleased God to afford many other worthy things which our it) to learn some such intelligence as General's own experience, if it would might make way for his return into please him to make trial, would better his country : and therefore he earnestly than his relation assure him of. The entreated our General to make rela- breeze would shortly serve very fitly tion to him of the occasion, way, and to carry him thither, and he himself manner of his coming so far from would accompany him all the way. England thither, with the manifold He accounted himself a happy man occurrences that had happened to that he had but seen and spoken with him by the way. Our General gave us ; the relation of it might perhaps ample satisfaction to each part of his serve him to recover favour in the request ; the stranger hearkened with country ; but if he could prevail with great attention and delight to his our General himself to go thither, he discourse, and as he naturally ex- doubted not but it would be a means celled in memory, besides his help of of his great advancement, and increase art to better the same, so he firmly of honour with his King. Notwith printed it in his mind, and with standing, our General could not on great reverence thanked God, who such persuasions be induced, and so had so unexpectedly brought him to the stranger parted, sorry that he the notice of such admirable things. could not prevail in his request, but Then fell he to entreat our General yet exceeding glad of the intelligence with many most earnest and vehe- he had learned. ment persuasions, that he would be By the 9th of November, having content to see his country before his gotten what provision the place could departure any farther Westward ; afford us, we then set sail : and con that it should be a most pleasant, sidering that our ship for want of most honourable, and most profitable trimming was now grown foul, that thing for him ; that he should gain our casks and vessels for water were thereby the notice, and carry home much decayed, and that divers other the description, of one of the most things stood in need of reparation, ancient, mightiest, and richest king our next care was, how we might fall doms in the world. Hereupon he with such a place where with safety took occasion to relate the number we might awhile stay for the redress and greatness of the provinces, with ing of these inconveniences. The the rare commodities and good things calmness of the winds, which are al they yielded the number, stateliness, most continual before the coming of and riches of their cities ; with what the breeze (which was not yet ex abundance of men, victuals, munition, pected) persuaded us it was the fittest and all manner of necessaries and de time that we could take. With this lightful things they were stored with ; resolution we sailed along till Novem in particular touching ordnance and ber 14th, at what time we arrived at great guns-the late invention of a a little island to the southward of scab-skinned Friar amongst us in Celebes, standing in 1° 40′ towards Europe -he related that in Suntien, the Pole Antarctic : which being without inhabitants , gave us the 1 This scarcely complimentary de better hope of quiet abode. We scription may apply either to the Eng anchored, and finding the place con lish Monk Roger Bacon , or, more appropriately, to the German Monk enlightened as to the projectile force Berthold Schwartz, whom accident of " villainous saltpetre. "!
15791
AT ANCHOR OFF CRAB ISLAND. 65 venient for our purposes (there want ordinary fly, did make a show and ing nothing here which we stood in give such light as if every twig on need of, but only water, which we every tree had been a lighted candle, were fain to fetch from another island or as if that place had been the starry somewhat farther to the south), made sphere. To these we may add the our abode here for twenty-six whole relation of another, almost as strange days together. The first thing we did, a creature, which here we saw, and we pitched our tents and entrenched that was an innumerable multitude of ourselves as strongly as we could huge bats or reremice, equalling or upon the shore, lest at any time per rather exceeding a good hen in big haps we might have been disturbed ness. They fly with marvellous by the inhabitants of the greater swiftness, but their flight is very island, which lay not far to the west short ; and when they light, they ward of us. After we had provided hang only by the boughs, with their thus for our security, we landed our backs downward. Neither may we goods, and had a smith's forge set up, without ingratitude, by reason of the both for the making of some neces special use we made of them, omit to sary shipwork, and for the repairing speak of the huge multitude of a cer of some iron-hooped casks, without tain kind of crayfish, of such a size, which they could not long have serv that one was sufficient to satisfy four ed our use. And for that our smith's hungry men at a dinner, being a very coals were all spent long before this good and restorative meat ; the special time, there was order given and fol means (as we conceived it) of our in lowed for the burning of charcoal, crease of health. They are, as far as by which that want might be sup we could perceive, utter strangers to the sea, living always on the land, plied. We trimmed our ship, and per where they work themselves_earths formed our other businesses to our as do the conies, or rather they dig content. The place affording us not great and huge caves under the roots only all necessaries (which we had not of the most huge and monstrous trees, of our own before) thereunto, but where they lodge themselves by com also wonderful refreshing to our panies together. Of the same sort wearied bodies, by the comfortable and kind we found, in other places relief and excellent provision that about the Island Celebes, some that, here we found, whereby of sickly, for want of other refuge, when we weak, and decayed, as many of us came to take them did climb up into seemed to be before our coming hither, trees to hide themselves, whither we we in short space grew all of us to be were enforced to climb after them if strong, lusty, and healthful persons. we would have them, which we would Besides this, we had rare experience not stick to do rather than to be with of God's wonderful wisdom in many out them. This island we called rare and admirable creatures which Crab Island. here we saw. The whole island is a All necessary causes of our staying through 2 grown wood, the trees for longer in this place being at last the most part are of large and high finished, our General prepared to be stature, very straight and clean, in a readiness to take the first advan without boughs, save only in the tage of the coming of the breeze or very top ; the leaves whereof are not wind which we expected ; and hav much unlike our brooms in England. ing the day before furnished our Among these trees, night by night, selves with fresh water from the other did show themselves an infinite swarm island, and taken in provision of wood of fiery-seeming worms flying in the and the like, December 12th we put to air, whose bodies, no bigger than an sea, directing our course toward the West. The 16th day we had sight of the Island of Celebes or Silébis, 1 From being. but having a bad wind and being 2 Thoroughly. E
66 DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1580. entangled among many islands, en were our necks unto the block, we cumbered also with many other diffi every minute expected the final culties, and some dangers, and at stroke to be given unto us. Notwith last meeting with a deep bay out of standing that we expected nothing which we could not in three days but imminent death, yet- that we turn out again, we could not by any might not seem to tempt God, by means recover the North of Celebes, leaving any second means unattempt or continue on our course farther ed which he afforded-presently, as west, but were enforced to alter the soon as prayers were ended, our Gene same towards the South ; finding that ral (exhorting us to have the especi course also to be both difficult and alest care of the better part, to wit, very dangerous by reason of many the soul, and adding many comfort shoals, which lay far off, here and there able speeches, of the joys of that among the islands ; insomuch that in other life which we now alone looked all our passages from England hither for) encouraged us all to bestir our to, we had never more care to keep selves, shewing us the way thereto ourselves afloat, and from sticking on by his own example. And first of them. Thus were we forced to beat all the pump being well plied, and up and down with extraordinary care the ship freed of water, we found and circumspection, till January 9th, our leaks to be nothing increased ; at which time we supposed that we which though it gave us no hope had at last attained a free passage, the of deliverance, yet it gave us some lands turning evidently in our sight hope of respite, insomuch as it as about to westward, and the wind be sured us that the bulk was sound ; ing enlarged, followed us as we de which truly we acknowledged to be sired with a reasonable gale. an immediate providence of God When lo ! on a sudden, when we alone, insomuch as no strength of least suspected, no show or suspicion wood and iron could have possibly of danger appearing to us, and we borne so hard and violent a shock as were now sailing onward with full our ship did, dashing herself under sails, in the beginning of the first full sail against the rocks, except the watch of the said day at night, even extraordinary hand of God had sup in a moment, our ship was laid up ported the same. fast upon a desperate shoal, with no Our next essay was for good ground other likelihood in appearance but and anchor-hold to seaward of us, that we with her must there pre whereon to haul ; by which means, if sently perish ; there being no proba by any, our General put us in comfort, bility how anything could be saved, that there was yet left some hope to or any person escape alive. The un clear ourselves. In his own person expectedness of so extreme a danger he therefore undertook the charge of presently roused us up to look about sounding, and but even a boat's us, but the more we looked the less length from the ship he found that hope we had of getting clear of it the bottom could not by any length again, so that nothing now present of line be reached unto ; so that the ing itself to our minds, but the beginning of hope, which we were ghastly appearance of instant death, willing to have conceived before, affording no respite or time of paus were by this means quite dashed ing, called upon us to deny ourselves, again ; yea, our misery seemed to be and to commend ourselves into the increased, for whereas at first we merciful hands of our most gracious could look for nothing but a present God. To this purpose we presently end, that expectation was now turned fell prostrate, and with joined prayers into the awaiting for a lingering sent up unto the throne of grace, death, of the two the far more dread humbly besought Almighty God to ful to be chosen. One thing fell out extend his mercy unto us in his Son Christ Jesus, and so preparing as it 1 The hull.
HELPLESS ON A SHOAL. 1580.] 67 happily for us, that the most of our |yet could our abode there profit us men did not conceive this thing ; nothing, but increase our wretched which had they done, they would in ness and enlarge our sorrows ; for as all likelihood have been so much dis her store and victuals were not much sufficient to sustain us only some couraged, that their sorrow would the more disable them to have sought the few days, without hope of having any remedy : our General, with those few increase, no not so much as of a cup others that would judge of the event of cold water-so must it inevitably wisely, dissembling the same, and come to pass, that we, as children in the giving, in the mean time, cheerful mother's womb, should be driven even speeches and good encouragements to eat the flesh from offour own arms, unto the rest. For whilst it seemed she being no longer able to sustain to be a clear case that our ship was us ; and how horrible a thing this so fast moored that she could not would have proved, is easy by any stir, it necessarily followed that one to be perceived. And whither, either we were there to remain on the had we departed from her, should we place with her, or else, leaving her, have received any comfort ? nay, the to commit ourselves in a most poor very impossibility of going appeared and helpless state to seek some other to be no less than those other before Our boat was by no place of stay and refuge, the better of mentioned. which two choices did carry with it means able at once to carry above the appearance of worse than a thou twenty persons with any safety, and sand deaths. As touching the ship, we were fifty-eight in all ; the nearest this was the comfort that she could land was six leagues from us, and the give us, that she herself lying there wind from the shore directly bent confined already upon the hard and against us ; or should we have thought pinching rocks, did tell us plain that of setting some ashore, and after that she continually expected her speedy to have fetched the rest, there being despatch, as soon as the sea and no place thereabout without inhabit winds should come, to be the severe ants, the first that had landed must executioners of that heavy judgment first have fallen into the hands of the by the appointment of the Eternal enemy, and so the rest in order ; and Judge already given upon her, who though perhaps we might escape the had committed her there to Adaman sword, yet would our life have been tine bonds in a most narrow prison, worse than death, not alone in respect against their coming for that pur of our woeful captivity and bodily pose : so that if we could stay with miseries, but most of all in respect of her, we must peril with her ; or if our Christian liberty, being to be de any, byany yet unperceivable means, prived of all public means of serving should chance to be delivered, his the true God, and continually grieved escape must needs be a perpetual with the horrible impieties and devil misery, it being far better to have ish idolatries of the heathen. Our perished together, than with the loss misery being thus manifest, the very and absence of his friends to live in consideration whereof must needs a strange land : whether a solitary life have shaken flesh and blood, if faith (the better choice) among wild beasts, in God's promises had not mightily as a bird on the mountains without sustained us, we passed the night with all comfort, or among the barbarous earnest longings that the day would people of the heathen, in intolerable once appear ; the mean time we bondage both of body and mind. And spent in often prayers and other god put the case that herdayof destruction ly exercises, thereby comforting our should be deferred longer than either selves, and refreshing our hearts, reason could persuade us, or in any striving to bring ourselves to an hum likelihood could seem possible (it be ble submission under the hand of ing notinthe powerof earthlythings to God, and to a referring of ourselves endure what she had suffered already), wholly to his good will and pleasure.
68
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
The day therefore at length appear ing, and it being almost full sea about that time, after we had given thanks to God for his forbearing of us hither to, and had with tears called upon him to bless our labours ; we again renewed our travail to see if we could now possibly find any anchor-hold, which we had formerly sought in vain. But this second attempt prov ed as fruitless as the former, and left us nothing to trust to but prayers and tears ; seeing it appeared impossible that ever the forecast, counsel, policy, or power of man could ever effect the delivery of our ship, except the Lord only miraculously should do the same. It was therefore presently motioned, and by general voice determined, to commend our case to God alone, leav ing ourselves wholly in his hand to spill¹ or save us, as [might] seem best to his gracious wisdom. And that our faith might be the better strengthen ed, and the comfortable apprehen sion of God's mercy in Christ be more clearly felt, we had a sermon and the Sacrament of the body and blood of our Saviour celebrated. After this sweet repast was thus received, and other holy exercises adjoined were ended, lest we should seem guilty in any respect for not using all lawful means we could invent, we fell to another practice yet unessayed, to wit, to unloading of our ship by casting some of hergoods into the sea ; which thing, as it was attempted most will ingly, so it was despatched in very short time. So that even those things which we before this time, nor any other in our case could be with out, did now seem as things only worthy to be despised ; yea, we were herein so forward, that neither our munition for defence, nor the very meal for sustentation of our lives, could find favour with us, but every thing as it first came to hand went overboard : assuring ourselves of this, that if it pleased God once to deliver us out of that most desperate strait wherein we were, he would fight for us against our enemies, neither would
1 Destroy.
[1580.
he suffer us to perish for want of bread. But, when all was done, it was not any of our endeavours, but God's only hand, that wrought our delivery ; ' twas he alone that brought us even under the very stroke of death ; ' twas he alone that said unto us, " Return again, ye sons of men ! " ' twas he alone that set us at liberty again, that made us safe and free, after that we had remained in the former miserable condition the full space of twenty hours ; to his glorious name be the everlasting praise. The manner of our delivery (for the rela tion of it will especially be expected) was only this : The place whereon we sat so fast was a firm rock, in a cleft whereof it was we stuck on the larboard side. At low water there was not above six feet of depth in all on the starboard ; within little distance, as you have heard, no bottom to be found ; the breeze during the whole time that we stayed blew somewhat stiff directly against our broadside, and so perforce kept the ship upright. It pleased God in the beginning of the tide, while the water was yet al most at lowest, to slack the stiffness of the wind ; and now our ship, which required thirteen feet of water to make her float, and had not at that time on the one side above seven at most, wanting her prop on the other side, which had too long already kept her up, fell a-heeling towards the deep water, and by that means freed her keel and made us glad men. This shoal is at least three or four leagues in length ; it lies in 2°, lack ing three or four minutes, South latitude. The day of this deliverance was the 10th of January. Of all the dangers that in our whole voyage we met with, this was the greatest ; but it was not the last, as may appear by what ensueth. Neither could we indeed for a long season free ourselves from the con tinual care and fear of them ; nor could we ever come to any convenient anchoring, but were continuallyfor the most part tossed amongst the many islands and shoals which lie in infinite numberroundabout on the South part
69 OFF THE COAST OF CELEBES. 1580.] of Celebes, till the 8th day ofthe with it, to have got some succour, following month. January 12th, not but the weather was so ill that we being able to bear our sails, by reason could find no harbour, but we were of the tempest, and fearing of the very fearful of adventuring ourselves dangers, we let fall our anchors upon too far amongst the many dangers a shoal in 3° 30'. January 14th, we which were near the shore. The were gotten a little farther South, third day also we saw a little island, where, at an island in 4° 6', we again but being unable to bear any sail, but cast anchor, and spent a day in water only to lie at hull, we were by the ing and wooding. After this we met storm carried away and could not with foul weather, Westerly winds, fetch it. February 6th, we saw five and dangerous shoals, for many days islands, one of them towards the together ; insomuch that we were East, and four towards the West of utterly weary of this coast of Celebes, us, one bigger than another ; at the and thought best to bear with Timor. biggest of which we cast anchor, and The Southernmost cape of Celebes the next day watered and wooded. stands in 5° that side¹ the Line. But After we had gone on thence, on of this coast of Celebes we could not February 8th, we descried two canoes, so easily clear ourselves. The 20th who having descried us, as it seems, of January we were forced to run before, came willingly unto us, and with a small island not far from talked with us, alluring and conduct thence ; where having sent our boat ing us to their town not far off, named a good distance from us to search out Barativa ; it stands in 7° 13′ South a place where we might anchor, we the Line. The people are Gentiles, were suddenly environed with no of handsome body and comely stature, small extremities. For there arose a of civil demeanour, very just in deal most violent, yea an intolerable flaw ing, and courteous to strangers ; of all and storm out of the South-west which we had evident proof, they against us, making us (who were on showing themselves most glad of our a lee-shore amongst most dangerous coming, and cheerfully ready to re and hidden shoals) to fear extremely lieve our wants with whatsoever their not only the loss of our boat and country could afford . The men all men, but the present loss of ourselves, go naked, save their heads and secret our ship, and goods, or the casting of parts, every one having one thing or those men, whom God should spare, other hanging at his ears. Their into the hands of Infidels. Which women are covered from the middle misery could not by any power or in to the foot, wearing upon their naked dustry of ours have been avoided, if arms bracelets, and that in no small the merciful goodness of God had not, number, some having nine at least by staying the outrageous extremities upon each arm, made for the most wherewith we were set upon, wrought part of horn or brass, whereof the our present delivery ; by whose un lightest, by our estimation, would speakable mercy our men and boats weigh two ounces. With this people also were unexpectedly, yet safely, linen cloth, whereof they make rolls restored unto us. We got off from for their heads and girdles to wear this place as well as we could, and about their loins, is the best merchan continued on our course till the 26th dise, and ofgreatest estimation. They day[ofJanuary], whenthewind tookus, are also much delighted with mar very strong against us, W. and WSW., garites, 3 which in their language they soasthat wecould bear no more sail till call "' Saleta, " and such other like the end of that month was full ex 2 A ship lies at hull, or a hull, when pired. February 1st, we saw very high land, and as it seemed well in either in a dead calm or in a storm all her sails are taken in, and she habited, we would fain have borne shows only bare masts and rigging. 3 Beads. 1 That is, to the South side.
DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1580. 70 trifles. Their island is both rich and thing to be taken notice of till the fruitful ; rich in gold, silver, copper, 9th of March, when in the morning tin, sulphur, & c. Neither are they we espied land , some part thereof very only expert to try those metals, but high, in 8° 20' South latitude. Here very skilful also in working of them we anchored that night, and the next artificially into divers forms and day weighed again, and bearing fur shapes, as pleaseth them best. Their ther North and nearer shore, we came fruits are diverse likewise and plenti to anchor the second time. The 11th ful, as nutmegs, ginger, long pepper, of March we first took in water, and lemons, cucumbers, cocoas, figs, sago, after sent our boat again to shore, with divers other sorts, whereof we where we had traffic with the people had one in reasonable quantity, in of the country ; whereupon, the same bigness, form, and husk, much like a day, we brought our ship more near bay-berry, hard in substance, but the town, and having settled ourselves pleasant in taste, which being sodden there that night, the next day our becomes soft, and is a most profitable General sent his man ashore to pre and nourishing meat. Of each of sent the King with certain cloth, both these we received of them whatsoever linen and woollen, besides some silks ; we desired for our need, insomuch which he gladly and thankfully re that (such was God's gracious good ceived, and returned rice, cocoas, hens, ness to us) the old proverb was veri and other victuals in way of recom fied with us, " After a storm cometh pense. This island we found to be a calm, after war peace, after scarcity the Island of Java, the middle where followeth plenty " so that in all our of stands in 7° 30′ beyond the Equator. voyage, Ternate only excepted, from The 13th of March our General him our departure out of our own country, self, with many of his gentlemen and hitherto we found not anywhere others, went to shore, and presented greater comfort and refreshing than the King (of whom he was joyfully we did at this time in this place. In and lovingly received) with his refreshing and furnishing ourselves music, and shewed him the manner here we spent two days, and departed of our use of arms, by training his hence February 10th. When we were men with their pikes and other wea come into the height of 8° 4′, February pons which they had, before him. 12th, in the morning we espied a green For the present, we were entertained island to the Southward ; not long as we desired, and at last dismissed after, two other islands on the same with a promise of more victuals to be side, and a great one more towards shortly sent us. In this island there is one chief, the North they seemed all to be well inhabited, but we had neither but many under-governors, or petty need nor desire to go to visit them, kings, whom they call Rajahs, who and so we passed by them. The 14th live in great familiarity and friend day we saw some other reasonably big ship one with another. The 14th islands ; and February 16th we passed day we received victuals from two of between four or five big islands more, them ; and the day after that, to wit which lay in the height 1 9° 40'. The the 15th, three of these kings in their 18th, we cast anchor under a little own persons came aboard to see our island, whence we departed again the General, and to view our ship and day following ; we wooded here, but warlike munition. They were well other relief, except two turtles, we pleased with what they saw, and with received none. The 22d, we lost the entertainment which we gave sight of three islands on our starboard them. And after these had been side, which lay in 10° and some odd with us, and on their return had, as minutes. After this we passed on to it seems, related what they found, the Westward without stay or any Rajah Donan, the chief King of the whole land, bringing victuals with 1 Latitude (South of the Line). him for our relief, he also the next
VISIT FROM THE 1580.1 day after came aboard us. Few were the days that one or more of these kings did miss to visit us, insomuch that we grew acquainted with the names of many of them, as of Rajah Pataiára, Rajah Cabocapálla, Rajah Manghango, Rajah Boccabarra, Rajah Timbanton : whom our General al ways entertained with the best cheer that we could make, and shewed them all the commodities of our ship, with our ordnance and other arms and weapons, and the several furnitures belonging to each, and the uses for which they served. His music also, and all things else whereby he might do them pleasure, wherein they took exceeding great delight with admiration. One day, amongst the rest, March 21st, Rajah Donan coming aboard us, in requital of our music which was made to him, presented our General with his country music, which though it were of a very strange kind, yet the sound was pleasant and delightful. The same day he caused anox also to be brought to the water's side and delivered to us, for which he was to his content rewarded by our General with divers sorts of very costly silks, which he held in great esteem. Though our often giving en tertainment in this manner did hinder us much in the speedy despatching of our businesses, and made us spend the more days about them, yet there we found all such convenient helps, that to our contents we at last ended them. The matter of greatest impor tance which we did, besides victual ling, was the newtrimming and wash ing of our ship, which by reason of our long voyage was so overgrown with a kind of shellfish sticking fast unto her, that it hindered her exceed ingly, and was a great trouble to her sailing. The people, as are their kings, are a loving, a very true, and a just-dealing people. We trafficked with them for hens, goats , cocoas, plantains, and other kinds of victuals, which they offered us in such plenty, that we might have laden our ship if we had needed.¹
RAJAHS OF JAVA. 71 We took our leaves and departed from them the 26th of March, and set our course WSW. , directly towards the Cape of Good Hope, or Bon Esperance, and continued without touch of aught but air and water until the 21st of May, when we espied land-to wit, a part of the main of Africa-in some places very high, under the latitude of thirty-one and a half degrees. We coasted along till June 15th, on which day, having very fair weather, and the wind at South east, we passed the Cape itself so near in sight, that we had been able with our pieces to have shot to land. 2 July 15th we fell with the land again about Rio de Sesto, where we saw many ne groes in their boats a-fishing, whereof two came very near us, but we cared not to stay, nor had any talk or deal ing with them. The 22d of the same month we came to Sierra Leone, and spent two days for watering in the mouth of Tagoine, and then put to sea again ; here also we had oysters, ³
inform us, was a house of assembly or public hall, where the people met twice daily to partake of a common meal and enjoy the pleasures of con To this festival every versation. one contributed, at his pleasure or convenience, fruits, boiled rice, roast ed fowls, and sago. The viands were spread on a table raised three feet, and the party gathered round, one rejoicing in the company of another. " 2 The Cape is described by another chronicler as "" a most stately thing, and the fairest cape we saw in the whole circumference of the earth. " They passed it in perfectly calm and clear weather ; making them affirm, that the Portuguese had not less falsely alleged the extreme peril of the passage from continual tempests, than the Spaniards, to deter voyagers of other nations, had exaggerated the dangers of the course round the south ern extremity of America. 3 The voyagers came here upon a kind of oysters which ".was found on trees, spawning and increasing in finitely ; the oyster suffering no bud ¹ In every village, other narratives to grow. "
DRAKE'S LAST VOYAGE . [1580. 72 and plenty of lemons, which gave us minds and thankful hearts to God, good refreshing. We found ourselves arrived at Plymouth, the place of our under the Tropic of Cancer, August first setting forth, after we had spent 15th, having the wind at North-east, two years, ten months, and some few and we fiftyleagues offfrom the nearest odd days besides, in seeing the won land. The 22d day we were in the ders of the Lord in the deep, in dis height of the Canaries. covering so many admirable things, And the 26th of September (which in going through with so many strange was Monday in the just and ordinary adventures, in escaping out of so many reckoning of those that had stayed at dangers, and overcoming so many home in one place or country, but in difficulties, in this our encompassing our computation was the Lord's Day of this nether globe, and passing or Sunday¹) we safely, with joyful round about the world, which we have related. 1 The same circumstance, which Soli rerum maximarum Effectori, " every schoolboy " can now explain, had also astonished the companions Soli totius mundi Gubernatori, Soli suorum Conservatori, of Magellan, who, on their return from their circumnavigation to San Soli Deo sit semper Gloria. Lucar in 1522, discovered that they had "lost a day." Dampier notes of his Fourteenth Chapter. See page the same thing at the commencement | 223. END OF DRAKE'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
DRAKE'S LAST VOYAGE 1595 .
[ An account of Drake's unfortunate expedition to the West Indies in 1595, written by Thomas Maynarde , one of his companions on the occasion, is still preserved, and is given here-though a little apart from the main purpose of the present volume-as an appropriate sequel to Mr Fletcher's narrative of his most brilliant achievement . ]
ir appears by the attempts and known purposes of the Spaniard -as by his greedy desire to be our neigh bour in Britain, his fortifying upon the river of Brest, to gain so near us a quiet and safe road for his fleet, his
carelessness in losing the strongholds and towns which he possessed in the Low Countries, not following those wars in that heat which he wonted, the rebellious rising of the Earl of Tyrone (wrought or drawn thereto
EXPEDITION TO THE WEST INDIES. 73 1595. ] undoubtedly by his wicked practices ) | it from meaner wits, yet was it appar -that he leaveth no means unat- ently seen to better judgments before tempted which he judged might be a our going from Plymouth, that whom furtherance to turn our tranquillity the one loved, the other smally es into accursed thraldom ; so robbing teemed. Agreeing best, for what I us of that quiet peace which we, from could conjecture, in giving out a glori the hands of Her Majesty (next under ous title to their intended journey, God), abundantly enjoy. This his and in not so well victualling the navy bloodthirsty desire foreseen by thewis- as, I deem, was Her Majesty's pleasure dom of our Queen and Council, they it should be, both of them served them held no better means to curb his unjust to good purpose ; for, from this hav pretences, than by sending forces to ing the distributing of so great sums, invade him in that kingdom from their miserable providing for us would whence he hath feathers to fly to the free them from incurring any great top of his high desires ; they knowing loss, whatsoever befell of the journey. that if for two or three years a blow And the former¹ drew unto them so were given him there that might hin- great repair of voluntaries, " that they der the coming into Spain of his had choice to discharge such few as treasure, his poverty, by reason of his they had pressed, and to enforce the huge daily payments, would be so stay of others who gladly would be great, and his men of war, most of partakers of their voyage. But not them mercenaries, that assuredly withstanding matters were very for would fall from him, so would he ward, and that they had drawn to have more need of means to keep his gether three thousand men, and had own territories, than he now hath of ready furnished twenty-seven ships, superfluity to thrust into others' rights. whereof six were Her Majesty's, yet This invasion was spoken of in many times was it very doubtful June 1594, a long time before it was whether the journey should proceed ;3 put in execution ; and it being partly and had not the news of a galleon of resolved on, Sir Francis Drake was the King of Spain, which was driven named General in November follow- into Saint John de Puerto Rico with ing : a man of great spirit and fit to two millions and a half of treasure, undertake matters : in my poor opin- come unto them by the report of cer ion, better able to conduct forces and tain prisoners, whereof they advertised discreetly to govern in conducting Her Majesty, it is very likely it had them to places where service was to been broken, but Her Majesty, per be done, than to command in the ex- suaded by them of the easy taking ecution thereof. But, assuredly, his thereof, commanded them to hasten very name was a great terror to the their departure. cnemy in all those parts, having her So on Thursday, being the 28th of tofore done many things in those August, in the year 1595, having countries to his honourable fame and stayed two months in Plymouth, we profit. But entering into them as went thence twenty-seven sail, and the child of fortune, it may be his 1 That is, the " giving out a glori self-willed and peremptory command was doubted, and that caused Her ous title " to their intended expedi Majesty, as should seem, to join Sir tion. 2 Resort of volunteers. John Hawkins in equal commission : a man old and wary, entering into 3 It was detained, among other matters with so laden a foot, that causes, by artfully propagated ru the other's meat would be eaten before mours that another great Armada his spit could come to the fire ; men was being prepared for the invasion ofso different natures and dispositions, of England-the Spaniards thus gain that what the one desireth the other ing time to put their colonies in good would commonly oppose against ; and defence against the formidable attack thoughtheir warycarriages sequestered now menaced.
DRAKE'S LAST VOYAGE. 74 [1595. were two thousand five hundred men end, Sir John revealed the places of all sorts. This fleet was divided whither we were bound, in hearing of into two squadrons ; not that it was the basest mariner ; observing there so appointed by Her Majesty, for in no warlike or provident advice, from her was granted as powerful nor was it ever amended to the time authority unto either of them over of their deaths, but so he named Saint the whole as any part, but Sir Francis John de Puerto Rico, where the trea victualling the one half and Sir John sure before spoken of was to be taken, the other, it made them, as men af even without blows ; from whence we fecting what they had done, ¹ to chal should go direct to Nombre de Dios, lenge a greater prerogative over them and so over land to Panama. What than the whole ; wherein they wronged other things should fall out by the themselves and the action, 2 for we had way, he esteemed them not worth not run sixty or seventy leagues in the naming, this being sufficient to our course, before a flag of council make a far greater army rich to their was put out in the Garland, untowhich content. all commanders with the chiefmasters Some seven or eight days after and gentlemen repaired. Sir Francis this, we were called aboard the De complained that he had three hundred fiance, where, Sir Francis Drake pro men more in his squadron than were pounding unto us whether we should in the other, and that he was much give upon the Canaries or Madeiras pestered in his own ship, whereof he (for he was resolved to put for one of would gladly be eased. Sir John them by the way), we seeing his bent gave no other hearing to this motion, and the earnestness of the Colonel but seemed to dislike that he should general, together with the apparent bring more than was concluded be likelihood of profit, might soon have twixt them ; and this drew them to been drawn thereto, but for consider some choleric speeches. But Sir John ing the weighty matters we had would not receive any unless he were undertaken, and how needful it was entreated ; to this Sir Francis' stout to hasten us thither. But General heart could never be driven. This Hawkins utterly misliking this no was on the 2d of September, and after tion-it being a matter, as he said, they were somewhat qualified, they never before thought of-knew no acquainted us that Sir Thomas Bas cause why the fleet should stay in any kerville, our Colonel-general, was of place till they came to the Indies, their council by virtue of the broad unless it should be by his 5 taking in seal, and that they would take unto of so great numbers to consume his them Sir Nicholas Clifford and the waters and other provision ; the other captains appointed by Her which, if Sir Francis would acknow Majesty, who were, eleven for the ledge, he would rid him and relieve land, four for the ships in which they him the best he could. Now the fire themselves went not. They gave us which lay hid in their stomachs began instructions for directing our course, to break forth, and had not the if, by foul weather or mischance, any Colonel pacified them, it would have should be severed, and orders what grown farther ; but their heat some allowances we should put our men what abated, and they concluded to into for preservation of victuals, with dine next day aboard the Garland other necessary instructions. In the with Sir John, when it was resolved that we should put for the Grand 1 Taking a greater interest in what Canaries, though, in my conscience, had engaged their own attention and whatsoever his tongue said, Sir John's touched their own pocket. heart was against it. These matters 2 Enterprise. were well qualified, and for that 8 Proud, stubborn. place we shaped our course ; in which After their passion had somewhat abated. 5 Drake's.
75 AT ANCHOR OFF GUADALOUPE. 1595. ] we met with a small Fleming bound | straggling soon would have their for the Straits, and a small man-of throats cut. General Drake lying war of Weymouth, who kept us com ahead the fleet, ran in by the north pany to the Canaries. On Wednes of Dominica, Sir John by south. day, the 24th day, we had sight of The 29th we anchored under Guada Lancerotta and Forteventura. The loupe ; Sir Francis being there a day 25th, at night we descried the Cana before us. On the 30th, Josias, cap ries, it being a month after our de tain of the Delight, brought news to parture from Plymouth. On Friday, the Generals, that the Francis, a being the 26th, we came to anchor small ship of company, was taken by some saker-shot from a fort which nine frigates ; whereupon Sir Francis stands to the WNW. of the harbour. would presently have followed them, Sir Francis spent much time in seek either with the whole fleet or some ing out the fittest place to land ; part, for that he knew our intentions the enemy thereby gaining time to were discovered by reason they were draw their forces in readiness to im so openly made known, as I afore peach¹ our approach. At length we, have set down, by Sir John Hawkins. putting for the shore in our boats 2 and Sir John would in no wise agree to pinnaces, found a great siege and either of these motions, and he was such power of men to encounter us, assisted in his opinion by Sir Nicho that it was then thought it would las Clifford, all others furthering hazard the whole action if we should his desires, which might be a means give further upon it, whereupon we to stay them for going into Puerto returned without receiving or doing Rico before us ; but Sir John pre any harm worthy the writing ; but, vailed, for that he was sickly, Sir undoubtedly, had we launched under Francis being loth to breed his further the fort at our first coming to anchor, disquiet. The reason of his stay was, we had put fair to be possessors of to trim his ships, mount his ordnance, the town, for the delays gave the take in water, set by some new pin enemy great stomachs and daunted naces, and to make things in that our own ; and it being the first ser readiness, that he cared not to meet vice our new men were brought into, with the King's whole fleet. Here it was to be doubted they would prove we stayed doing these necessaries the worse the whole journey follow three days. This is a desert, and was without inhabitants. ing. We presently weighed hence and On the 4th of November we depart came to anchor the 27th at the ed, and being becalmed under the WSW. part of this island, where we lee of the land, Sir Francis caused the watered. Here Captain Grimstone, Richard, one of the victuallers, to be one of the twelve captains for land, unladen and sunk. The 8th we was slain by the mountaineers, with anchored among the Virgins, other his boy and a surgeon. Hence we west islands : here we drew our com departed the 28th, holding our course pany on shore, that every man SW. three weeks, then we ran WSW. might know his colours, and we and W. by S. until the 27th of found our company short of the one October, on which day we had sight thousand two hundred promised for of Maten, an island lying south- east land service, few of the captains hav from Dominica. Our Generals meant ing above ninety, most not eighty, to water at Guadaloupe, for Dominica some not fifty ; which fell out partly being inhabited by Indians, our men for that the Generals had selected to them a company for their guard, of 1 Prevent ; French, " empêcher. " many of the gallantest men of the The word is still used in Ireland in army. Sir John's sickness increased. the sense of hindering or obstructing. Sir Francis appointed captains to the 2 Fortification . merchants' ships ; this consumed time till the 11th, when we passed a * Courage.
76 DRAKE'S LAST VOYAGE. [1595. 1 sound, though, by our mariners, great light, the enemy thereby play. never passed by fleet afore, and we ing upon us with their ordnance and came to anchor before Puerto Rico on small shot as if it had been fair day, the 12th about three of the clock in and sinking some of our boats : a the afternoon, at which time Sir John man could hardly command his mar Hawkins died. I made my men iners to row, they foolishly thinking ready presently to have landed, know every place more dangerous than ing that our sudden resolution would where they were, when, indeed, none greatly have daunted the enemy, and was sure. Thus doing no harm, we have held ours in opinion of assured returned with two or three prisoners, victory ; but I was countermanded when, indeed, in my poor opinion, it by authority, and during the time of had been an easier matter to bring our deliberation the enemy laboured them out of the harbour than fire by all means to cause us to disanchor, them as we did, for our men aboard so working, that within an hour he the ships numbered five thousand one had planted three or four pieces of hundred and sixty pieces of artillery artillery upon the shore next to us, that played on us during this ser and playing upon the Defiance, know vice ; and it had been less dangerous ing her to be the Admiral, whilst our to have abidden them close in the Generals sat at supper with Sir Nicho frigates and in the dark than as we las Clifford and divers others, a shot did. But great commanders many came amongst them, wherewith Sir times fail in their judgment, being Nicholas, Brute Brown, Captain crossed by a co-partner. But I had Strafford, who had Grimstone's com cause of more grief than the Indies pany, and some standers-by, were could yield me of joy, losing my hurt. Sir Nicholas died that night, alferez, Davis Pursell ; Mr Vaughan, so seconding Sir John Hawkins in his a brother-in-law of Sir John Haw death, as he did in his opinion at kins, with three others ; Thomas Guadaloupe. My brother Brown Powton, with five or six more, hurt lived five or six days after, and died and maimed ; and was somewhat dis. much bewailed. This shot made our comfited, for the General feigned here General weigh and fall farther to the to set up his rest ; but examining the westward, where we rode safely. The prisoners, by whom he understood frigates before spoken of rode within that these frigates were sent for his their forts we had no place now to treasure, and that they would have land our men but within them, in the fallen among us at Guadaloupe had face of the town, which was danger they not taken the Francis, his mind ous, for that both forts and ships altered : calling to council, he com could play on us ; it was therefore manded us to give our opinions what concluded that boats should fire them we thought of the strength of the where they rode. Captain Poore and place. Most thought it would hazard myself had the command of this ser the whole action. 4 But one Rush, a vice ; for the regiments, Captain captain, more to me alleged, that Salisbury commanding ; the grand without better putting for it than captain company was sent by the bare looking upon the outside of the Generals ; divers sea commanders forts, we could hardly give such judg were also sent ; and on the 13th at night, passing in hard under the fort, A number wholly incredible ; the we set three of them on fire ; only Spanish accounts say that there were one of which, it was my chance to only seventy pieces. undertake, was burnt ; on the others 3 Standard-bearer ; a word borrow. the fire held not, by reason that be ed from the Arabic, as its prefix ing once out they were not maintain plainly enough shows. ed with new. The burnt ship gave a 4 That to attack it would bring the whole expedition into jeopardy. 5 Without some further effort. ¹ According to the report of.
1595.1
SOME SPANIARDS AND NEGROES TAKEN. 77 ment ; and I set it plainly under my |the companies in the pinnaces and hand, that if we resolutely attempted boats, were sent to the city of Rio de it, all was ours ; and that I persuad- la Hacha, and with small resistance ed myself no town in the Indies we took it the 1st of December at could yield us more honour or profit. night. The General came unto us The General presently said : "I will the next morning with the fleet. bring thee to twenty places far more This town was left bare of goods ; wealthy and easier to be gotten. " the inhabitants, having intelligence Such like speeches I think had be- of our coming, had carried all in the witched the Colonel, for he most de- woods, and hid their treasures in sired him to hasten him hence. The caches ; but, staying here seventeen cnemy, the day after we had fired the days, we made so good search, that frigates, sunk together four to save little remained unfound within four us labour, but chiefly to strengthen leagues of the town. We took many their forts : two other great ships prisoners, Spaniards and Negroes, they sunk and fired in the mouth of some slaves repairing to us volun the harbour, to give them light to tarily. The General with two hundred play on us from their forts, as we en- men went in boats to Lancheria, 3 tered the first night. And hence we which is a place where they fish for went the 15th. Here I left all hope pearl, standing ten leagues to the eastward of their town, from whence ofgood success. On the 19th we came to anchor in they brought good store of pearl, and a fair bay, the Bay of Sta Jermana, ¹ took a carvel, in which was some at the westernmost part of the island, money, wine, and myrrh. During where we stayed till the 24th, setting our stay here, the Governor once, up more new pinnaces and unloading divers others often, repaired unto us the other new victualler, the General to redeem their town, Lancheria, taking the most part into his own their boats, and slaves. They did ship, as he did of the former. Cap this to gain time to convey away the tain Torke, in the Hope, was made King's treasure, and to advertise their Vice-Admiral. This is a very plea neighbour towns to convey their trea sant and fertile island, having upon sure in more safety than themselves it good store of cattle, fruits, and fish, had done ; for the whole (except the with all things necessary to man's slaves who voluntarily repaired unto sustenance ; and were itwell manured, us) was yielded unto them for twenty no place could yield it in greater four thousand pesos, five shillings and Departing sixpence a piece, to be paid in pearls ; abundance or better. hence, we had our course for Curaçoa. bringing these to their town at the The second day after our putting off, day, and valuing in double the price the Exchange, a small ship, sprung they were worth. Our General deli her mast, and was sunk ; the men vered the hostages and set their town and part of the victuals were saved by Lancheria and boats on fire, carrying other ships. Upon Curaçoa there is their slaves with us. The wealth we great store of cattle and goats, and had here was given to countervail the we fell with it upon Saturday the charge of the journey ; but I fear it 29th ; but our General, deceived by will not so prove in the end. Our the current and westerly course, made Vice-Admiral, Captain Torke, died it for Aruba, 2 an island lying ten or here of sickness. This is an exceed twelve leagues to the westward, and ingly good country, champaign and so made no stay ; when, next morn well inhabited ; great store of cattle, ing descrying whether he found his horses, sheep, goats, fish, and fowl, error, we bore with Cape de la Vela, whereon we fed, but small store of and from thence our Colonel, with all grain or fruit near the town, rich only in pearl and cattle. 1 San German. 3 La Rancheria. 2 Mistook it for Oruba.
DRAKE'S LAST VOYAGE. 78 [1595. The 20th, being Saturday, we came left very bare ; wherefore it was re to Santa Martha. We sunk two solved that we should hasten with ketches, before we came to Rio de la speed to Panama. Nombre de Dios Hacha, which we brought out of standeth on the North Sea, Panama England. Presently, upon our com upon the South,5 distant some eigh ing to anchor, we landed and gave teen or nineteen leagues. There were upon¹ the town. We found small re only two ways to get thither ; one by sistance more than a few shot playing the River Chagre, which lies to the out of the woods as we marched to westward twenty leagues ; upon this wards the town. Companies were it is passable within five leagues of presently sent abroad to discover and Panama : the other through deserts search the country. The inhabitants and over mountains void of inhabi had too long forewarning to carry tants : this was troublesome and their goods out of our possibility to hard, as well for want of means to find them in so short time ; little or carry our provision of meat and nothing of value was gotten, only the munition, as for the ill passage with Lieutenant-Governor and some others an army through these deserts and were taken prisoners ; and firing the unknown places. That by the river town the 21st, we departed. Captain our General held more dangerous, Worrell, our trenchmaster, died at feigning there was no place for our this town of sickness. This was a fleet to wade safely. This made our very pretty town, and six leagues off Colonel yield to the way by the moun there was a gold mine. If part of our tain, though he and others foresaw company had been sent thither upon the danger before our setting hence ; our first arrival at Rio de la Hacha, but he resolved to make trial of what doubtless we had done much good ; could be done. So on Monday the 29th we began but now they had scrubbed it very bare. In this place was great store3 our journey, taking with us the of fruit and much fernandobuck ; strongest and lustiest of our army, for that the wind blew so extremely, and the road wild, we could not ship it. Before we departed hence, it was concluded that we should pass Car thagena and go directly for Nombre de Dios. We anchored in the road on Sunday following, being the 28th ; and landing presently, receiving some small shot from the town, we found small resistance more than a little fort at the east end of their town, in which they had left one piece of ordnance, which brake at the first shot. They gave upon us as we gave upon them : certain prisoners were taken in the flying, who made it known, that hav ing intelligence long before of our coming, their treasure was conveyed to places of more safety, either to Panama, or secretly hidden ; and it might very well be, for the town was
to the number of fifty men and seven colours. Before our setting hence, we buried Captain Arnold Baskerville, our Sergeant-major-gene ral, a gallant gentleman. The first day we marched three leagues ; the next, six leagues, where we came to a great house which the enemy had set on fire, it being a place where the King's mules do use to lodge coming from Panama to Nombre de Dios with his treasure : it is the midway betwixt both places. The house would receive five hundred horses. We had not marched fully a league on Wednesday morning, when we came to a place fortified upon the top of a hill, which the enemy defended. We had no other way to pass nor no
* They found, however, at the top of an adjacent watchtower, more than 1 ""Attacked ; French , " donner 2000 lbs. of silver, with some gold sur. and other valuables. Engineer. 5 The Atlantic and Pacific respec Pernambuco tively. Fernanor 3 Wood of dobuco ; Brasil wood, • The number was really 750.
79 A DANGEROUS MARCH . 1596. ] means to make our approach but a think would have been too dangerous very deep lane, where but one could for us to have attempted, considering pass at once, unless it were by clam the estate we were in, we must have bering upon the banks and creeping fought with them at a bridge where up the hill through the brakes, which they had entrenched themselves in a some of our men did, and came to the far greater number than we were ; trees which they had plashed to and it is manifest, if we had not make their palisado, over which they within three days gotten some relief, could not pass, the many boughs so we had been overthrown, though no hindered them. It was my chance, enemy had fought against us. But clambering up the banks to repair to our stomachs calling these, with three musketeers whom I had helped other dangers, to his careful consider up, to fall directly between two of ation, he resolved to retire, and so their places fortified, coming unto commanded us to cause the slain to be two paths by which they fetched thrown out of sight, the hurt to be their water, and giving presently sent to the quarters from whence we upon them, the place being open, my came that morning, and the rest to small number found too good resist be drawn away. Here were slain Cap ance, and I was driven to retire with tain Marchant, our Quarter-master, the loss of these few. Here was the with some other officers, gentlemen, only place to beat them from their and soldiers. Upon our coming to hold, whereof I sent the Colonel the quarters, the Colonel took view word, Captain Poore and Bartlett and of the hurt, and for such as could others repairing to me. I shewed ride he procured all the horses of the them the path ; we heard the enemy army ; for the other, he entreated the plashing and felling of trees far before enemy to treat them kindly, as they us. The Colonel sent for us to come expected the like from us towards unto him he debated with us what theirs, of which we had a far greater he foresaw before our coming from number. On the 2d of January we Nombre de Dios, and though he returned to Nombre de Dios ; our thought, in his opinion, we should men so wearied with the illness of the fear the enemy hence, yet, having way, surbatted for want of shoes, retreats upon retreats, they would and weak with their diet, that it kill our best men without taking would have been a poor day's service little or any hurt themselves ; and that we should have done upon an our men began to drop apace ; our enemy had they been there to resist powder and match were spoiled by us. I am persuaded that never army, much rain and waters which we had great or small, undertook a march passed, unless it were such as some through so unknown places so weakly of our soldiers had with more care provided and with so small means to preserved. The provision for meat at help themselves, unless it might be our coming from Nombre de Dios some few going covertly to do some was seven or eight cakes of biscuit or sudden exploit before it were thought rusk for a man, which was either by of by the enemy, and so return un wet spoiled, or their greediness had spied ; for, undoubtedly, two hundred devoured ; so there remained to few men foreknowing their intentions and one day's bread, to most none at all. provided with all things necessary, Our hurt men, as Captain Nicholas are able to break or weaken the great Baskerville and some others of ac est force that any prince in Christen count, we should be driven to leave dom can bring thither, if he had to the mercy of the enemy, unless they place to find more than we had. This could hold company. Before our march had made many swear that he coming to Panama, had we beaten will never venture to buy gold at such them from all these holds, which I a price again. I confess noble spirits, ¹ Pleached, or plaited, like a hedge.
2 Bruised, wearied, footsore,
DRAKE'S LAST VOYAGE . 80 [1596. desirous to do service to their Prince | the furthest limit of his knowledge. and country, may soon be persuaded There he found out a lake called to all hardness and danger, but having Laguna de Nicaragua , upon which once made trial thereof, would be very stand certain towns, as Granada, loth, as I suppose, to carry any force Leon, and others ; also the Bay of that way again ; for beholding it in Honduras, a place known to be of many places, a man would judge it small wealth by itself, unless it be dangerous for one man to pass alone, brought thither to be embarked for almost impossible for horses and an Spain. He demanded which of these we would attempt ; our Colonel said , army. The day that our General had 66' Both, one after the other, and all news of our return, he meant to too little to content us if we took weigh and fall nearer to the River them." It was then resolved that Chagre with the fleet, leaving some we should first for the river, and as few to bring us if we were enforced to matters fell out, for the other. retire, whereby he little doubted. Nombre de Dios, together with their But being beaten from the place Negro town, was fired ; and we sunk where it appeared all his hopes rested and fired fourteen small frigates for gaining to himself and others this which we found in the road. We got mass of treasure which he so confi here twenty bars of silver, with some dently promised before, it was high gold and certain plate ; more would time for him to devise of some other have been found had it been well course. Wherefore, on the 4th of sought but our General thought it January, he called us to council, and folly to gather our harvest grain by debated with us what was now to be grain, being so likely at Panama to done. All these parts had notice thrust our hands into the whole long before of all our intentions, as it heaps ; and after our return, being appeared by letters written from the troubled in mind, he seemed little to Governor of Lima to the Governor of regard any counsel that should be Panama and Nombre de Dios, giving given him to that purpose, but to them advice to be careful and to look hasten thence as fast as he might. well to themselves, for that Drake This is a most wealthy place, being and Hawkins were making ready in settled upon a ground full of cam England to come upon them. Lima phire, environed with hilly woods and is distant from these places more than mountains, the bottom a dampish fen. three hundred leagues, all overlaid Hence we departed the 5th, and held with snakes. It appears that they our course for Nicaragua. had good intelligence. This made On the 9th we found a very deep them to convey their treasure to and dangerous bay, playing it here places which they resolved to defend up and down ; all men weary of the with better force than we were able to place. The 10th we descried a small attempt. Like as upon the coming of island called Escudes," where we came the sun, dews and mists begin to to anchor ; and here we took a frigate vanish, so our blinded eyes began now which was an advice of the King's. to open, and we found that the glor By this we learned that the towns ious speeches, of a hundred places standing upon this Lake 5 were of that they knew in the Indies to small wealth and very dangerous, by make us rich, was but a bait to draw reason of many shoals and great Her Majesty to give them honourable roughs our mariners should have, it employments, and us to adventure being a hundred leagues : yet if the our lives for their glory ; for now wind would have permitted, we had charts and maps must be our chiefest 3 Escudo Island, near the bottom directors, he being in these parts at of Mosquito Bay. 4 Anaviso," or despatch-boat. 1 The promoters of the expedition. * Drake. 5 Of Nicaragua .
1596. ] 81 DEATH OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. assuredly put for them, and never re return her a very profitable adven turned to one half again. Here we ture ; and having sufficiently exper stayed, at a waste island where there ienced, for seven or eight years was no relief but a few tortoises for together, how hard it was to regain such as could catch them, twelve days. favour once thought ill of, the mis This is counted the sickliest place of tress of his fortune now leaving him the Indies ; and here died many of to yield to a discontented mind.¹ our men, victuals beginning to grow And since our return from Panama scarce with us. In the end, finding he never carried mirth nor joy in his the wind to continue contrary, he re face ; yet no man he loved must con solved to depart, and to take the wind jecture that he took thought thereof. as God sent it. But here he began to grow sickly. So on the 22d we went hence, hav At this island we sunk a carvel which ing there buried Captain Plott, Eger we brought out of England, putting ton, and divers others. I questioned her men and victuals into a last-taken with our General, being often private frigate. From hence a great current with him whilst we stayed here, to sets towards the eastward ; by reason see whether he would reveal unto me whereof, with the scant of wind we any of his purposes ; and I demanded had, on Wednesday, being the 28th, of him, why he so often conjured me, we came to Portobello, which is with being in England, to stay with him in eight or nine leagues of Nombre in these parts as long as himself, and de Dios. It was the best harbour we where the place was ? He answered came into since we left Plymouth. This morning, about seven of the me with grief, protesting that he was as ignorant of the Indies as myself, clock, Sir Francis died. The next and that he never thought any place day Sir Thomas Baskerville carried could be so changed, as it were from him a league off, and buried him in a delicious and pleasant arbour into a the sea. In this place, the inhabi waste and desert wilderness ; besides tants of Nombre de Dios meant to the variableness of the wind and build a town, it being far more healthy weather, so stormy and blusterous as than where they dwell. Here they he never saw it before. But he most began a fort which already cost the wondered that since his coming out King seven thousand purses, and a of England he never saw sail worth few houses towards their town, which giving chase unto : yet in the great they called Civitas Sti Philippi. ness of his mind, he would in the Them we fired, razing the fortifica end, conclude with these words : " It tion to the ground. Here we found, matters not, man ; God hath many as in other places, all abandoned ; things in store for us ; and I know their ordnance cast into the sea, some many means to do Her Majesty good of which we found, and carried aboard service and to make us rich, for we the Garland. Our Generals being dead, most must have gold before we see Eng land ; " when, good gentleman, in men's hearts were bent to hasten for my conceit, it fared with him as England as soon as they might ; but with some careless-living man who Sir Thomas Baskerville, having the prodigally consumes his time, fondly command of the army by virtue of persuading himself that the nurse 1 Referring, doubtless, to the fail that fed him in his childhood will likewise nourish him in his old age, ure of the expedition to Portugal, for and, finding the dug dried and wither the restoration of Dom Antonio, ed, enforced then to behold his folly, which Drake undertook in 1589, with tormented in mind, dieth with a Sir John Novis as commander of the starved body. He had, besides his land forces. Though the Admiral own adventure, gaged his own reputa was acquitted honourably of all tion greatly, in promising Her Majesty blame, his reputation seems to have to do her honourable service, and to for the time lain under a cloud . F
DRAKE'S LAST VOYAGE. [1596. 82 Her Majesty's broad seal, endeavoured | have lost my life than so forsake the to prevent the dissevering of the fleet, like. He deposed on the Bible, and and to that end talked with such as Christianity made me believe him. he heard intended to quit company But playing it up and down about before they were disembogued, and twelve of the clock, and discovering drew all companies to subscribe to none of them, the wind blew so con certain articles signifying our pur trary that the seamen affirmed by poses viz. , that putting hence, we holding this course we should be cast should turn it back to Santa Martha, back in the bay, and they were per if the wind would suffer us, otherwise suaded that our fleet could not attain to run over for Jamaica, where it was Santa Martha, but were gone over for thought we should be refreshed with Jamaica, whither they would follow some victuals. Matters thus con them. I plainly foresaw that if we cluded, the Delight, the Elizabeth, missed them there, it was like that and our late taken frigates were sunk. we should no more meet till we came Many of the Negro men and base 2 to England, which would have made. prisoners were here put on shore ; and me to persuade a longer search upon here we weighed on Sunday the 8th the main ; but my hope of their being of February. Our victuals began to there, together with the weakness of shorten apace, yet we had lain a long our men and the small means we had time at very hard allowance - four to retain them, fearing lest my delay men each morning one quart of beer might endanger Her Majesty's ships and cake of biscuit for dinner, and and the whole company, I yielded to for supper one quart of beer and two their persuasions. We were in ten de cakes of biscuit and two cans of water, grees and a halfwhenwe put from hence, with a pint of pease, or half a pint of and we came till the 22d, when we had rice, or somewhat more of oatmeal. sight of a very dangerous shoal which This was our allowance being at Por our seamen thought they had passed tobello, and six weeks before, but that near two days ago. If we had fallen in we had sometimes stock-fish. From with it in the night we had been all thence there is a current that sets to lost. The shoal is named Secrana. On Shrove Wednesday, being the the eastward, by the help of which, on the 14th, we had sight of an is 24th, we fell with Jamaica, and by land short of Carthagena fifteen or means of a Mulatto and an Indian we sixteen leagues ; further than this we had, this night, forty bundles of dried could not go to the eastward, for that beef, which served our whole company the current had left us. The 15th at so many days. We came to anchor night, it being fair weather, we lost at the westernmost part of the island, sight of our fleet. Here as I grew in a fair sandy bay, where we watered, discontented, knowing it touched and stayed, in hope to have some my poor regulation so to leave the news of our fleet, seven days. This army ; and I had many things to our stay brought no intelligence, persuade me that it was done of pur wherefore, our seamen thought that pose by the captain and master, our fleet, not able to recover this thereby gaining an excuse to depart ; place, were fallen either with Cape I showed the captain the danger he Corrientes or Cape Saint Antonio ; 3 would run into by leaving so honour these places we meant to touch in able forces when they had need of our our course ; and hence we went the company ; and God knoweth that 1st of March. On the 6th we saw a had I but had judgment which way ship on the leeward of us, and the to have cast for them, I would rather next morning we made her to be the Pegasine, one of our fleet, who, as 1 Before they passed the Boccas or they said, lost the Admiral near the narrow seas, and entered the wider time as we did, being by the Colonel Ocean. 2 Commoner sort. 3 At the west of Cuba.
HOMEWARD BOUND. 83 1596. ] sent to the Susan Bonaventure, whom | our men to give them over. So after they left in great distress, by reason I had endeavoured, by myself, my of a leakthey had taken, and I greatly lieutenant, and other gentlemen, by feared, by their report, they are per persuasion, to work the captain reso ished. There were in her one hundred lutely to attempt them, and finding and thirty or one hundred and forty no disposition in him but to consume persons, many gallant gentlemen and powder and shot to no purpose but good men. If they perish this ship firing it in the air, I yielded to give shall repent it. Holding our course them over, persuading myself that for these places, we descried five sails God had even ordained that we should astern of us. We stayed for them, not, with any nature, attempt where and soon made them out to be none we were resisted with never so weak of our fleet ; and we had good reason forces. Thus away we went, and the to persuade us they were enemies. wind chopping us southerly, our sea They had the wind of us, but we soon men held that our fleet could neither regained it upon them, which made ride at Corrientes nor at Saint Antonio, them, upon a piece of ordnance shot which made me condescend to leave off bythe greatest ship, tack about ; the Indies, with all their treasure, we tacked with them ; when the cap and to ply the next course to disem tain of this ship faithfully protested bogue, for little hope was left me that unto me not to shoot a piece of ord we should do Her Majesty any ser nance till we came board and board, vice, or good to ourselves, when, upon and then I promised him, with our the feigned excuse of endangering her small shot, to win the greatest or lose ships which she sent forth to fight if our persons. This we might have occasion were offered ; and to persuade done without endangering Her Ma myself that Her Majesty prizeth not jesty's ships ; but our enemy, playing her ships dearer than the lives of so upon us with their ordnance, made many faithful subjects, who gladly our gunners fall to it ere we were at would have ventured their lives, and musket shot, and no nearer could I upon no brain-sick humour, but from bring them, though I had no hope to a true desire to do Her Highness some take any of them but by boarding. service for the charge and adventure Here we popped away powder and she had been at in this glorious spoken shot to no purpose, for most of our ofjourney. Fortune's child was dead, gunners would hardly have stricken things would not fall into our mouths, Paul's steeple had it stood there. I nor riches be our portions, how dearly am a young seaman, yet my small soever we ventured for them. Thus judgment and knowledge make me avoiding Scylla (after the proverb) we avow, that never ship of Her Majesty's fell into Charybdis, and indeed we were went so vilely manned out of her not now far from it. Our master, a careful old man, but kingdom ; not twenty of them worthy to come into her ships ; and I know not experienced upon these coasts, not what had possessed the captain, rather following the advice of others but his mind was clean altered, tell than relying on his own judgment, ing me that he had no authority to brought us, on the 12th three hours lay any ship aboard, whereby he before day, into a very shallow water, might endanger this, Her Majesty's ; upon a dangerous bank, which some and they being, as he said, the King's held to be the Meltilettes, others the men ofwar, they would rather fire with Tortugas, either like enough to have us than be taken., Had I been a mer swallowed us, had not God blessed us chant of her burthen (God favouring with fair weather. Freeing ourselves me) they would have been mine, as of this danger, upon Monday the 15th many as stood to the trial of their of March we entered the Gulf, and by fortune ; but the paltry Pegasie we ten of the clock we brought the Cape lately met withal never came near us of Florida west of us. On the 17th by a league, which was some colour to the Lord be thanked) we were dis
84
DRAKE'S LAST VOYAGE.
[1596.
embogued. After this we ran with | whole discourse of our voyage, using most foul weather and contrary winds therein many idle words and ill-com till the 1st of May, when we had pared sentences. It was done on the soundings in ninety fathoms, being sea, which I think can alter any dis in the Channel, and on the 3d we had position. Your loves, I think, can sight of Scilly ; the which day, ere pardon these faults, and secrete them night we came to anchor (the Lord be from the view of others. The 1st of March the fleet fell in therefore praised) 1596. To give mine opinion of the Indies, with the Island of Pinos, on the land I verily think that filching men-of of Cuba, which day they had sight of war shall do more good, than such a the Spanish fleet by eleven of the fleet if they have any forewarning of clock ; where Sir Thomas Baskerville their coming. And unless Her Ma gave directions for the fleet as thus : jesty will undertake so royally as to the Garland, being Admiral, with one dispossess him of the lands of Puerto half of the fleet, to have the van Rico, Hispaniola, and Cuba, her guard ; the Hope, being Vice-admiral, charge will be greater in sending with the other half, the rearward. thither, than the profit such a fleet The fight continued fiercely three That can return ; for having but a few hours within musket-shot. days' warning, it is easy for them to night they saw the Spanish Vice convey their goods into assured safety, admiral, a ship of seven hundred as experience hath taught us. Their tons, burnt, with other six lost and towns they dare not redeem, being sunk by the next morning, when they enjoined the contrary by the King's departed. The Hope received a leak commandment. These places will be and was forced to go from the fleet to taken and possessed by two thousand an island, called Saint Crusado, inha men ; and by this Her Majesty might bited by cannibals, where they had debar the King of Spain of his whole store of hens and Indian wheat for profit of the Indies ; and the first nine weeks. March 8th, the fleet gaining them will return her a suffi shot the Gulf and came for England, cient requital for her adventure. God leaving Florida on the starboard side ; grant I may live to see such an enter and when they came to the Enchanted prise put in practice ; and the King Islands ¹ they were dispersed, and of Spain will speedily fly to what came home one by one. THOMAS MAYNARDE. conditions of peace Her Majesty will require. 1 The Azores. Thus I have truly set down the
END OF DRAKE'S LAST VOYAGE
DAMPIER'S
VOYAGE
ROUND
THE WORLD .
1679-1691 .
4
THE AUTHOR'S ACCOUNT OF HIMSELF.
[The Second Edition of Dampier's 99 "VoyageRound theTerrestrial Globe' appeared in two volumes ; the first containing the Circumnavigation proper, the second occupied by three Appendices, to which frequent refer ences were made in the chief recital. These Appendices bore the following titles : I. "A Supplement of the Voyage round the World, " being a fuller account of the Author's voyag ings and observations during the time he spent in the East Indies between his arrival there in 1686 and his de parture for England in 1691. II. " Two Voyages to Campeachy, " nar rating Dampier's experiences among the logwood cutters in the Bay of Campeachy between 1675 and 1678, and describing the western and south western coast of the Caribbean Sea. III. "A Discourse of Trade Winds, Breezes, Storms, Seasons of the Year, Tides, and Currents of the Torrid Zone," entirely meteorological and professional. In the second Appendix the Author gives an account of him self fuller than any that we have from other sources ; and, both from their autobiographical interest, and from the direct way in which they lead up to the greater subject, the main per sonal incidents of the Campeachy here prefixed to the Voyages 66 Voyage are Round the World. "] 1 My friends did not originally design me for the sea, but bred me at school till I came to years fit for a trade.¹ But upon the death of my father and mother, they who had the disposal of me took other measures ; and hav ing removed me from the Latin school to learn writing and arithmetic, they soon after placed me with a master of
a ship at Weymouth, " complying with the inclinations I had very early of seeing the world. With him I made a short voyage to France ; and, returning thence, went to Newfound land, being then about eighteen years of age . In this voyage I spent one summer, but [was] so pinched with the rigour of that cold climate, that upon my return I was absolutely against going to those parts of the world, but went home again to my friends. Yet going up, a while after to London, the offer of a warm voyage and a long one, both which I always desired, soon carried me to sea again. For hearing of an outward -bound East Indiaman, the John and Martha of London, I entered myself aboard, and was employed before the mast, for which my two former voyages had some way qualified me. We went directly for Bantam in the Isle of Java, and staying there about two months, came home again in little more than a year ; touching at San tiago of the Cape Verd Islands at our going out, and at Ascension in our return. In this voyage I gained more experience in navigation, but kept no journal. We arrived at Plymouth about two months before Sir Robert Holms went out to fall upon the Dutch Smyrna fleet ; and the second Dutch War breaking out upon this, I forebore going to sea that summer, retiring to my brother in Somerset shire. But growing weary of staying ashore, I listed myself on board the Royal Prince, commanded by Sir Edward Spragge, and served under him in the year 1673, being the last of the Dutch War. We had three engagements that summer ; I was in two of them, but falling very sick, I
1 Dampier was born in 1652.
2 About 1669.
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1669-74. 88 was put on board an hospital ship, a on the north side of the Island, and day or two before the third engage accordingly rode from Santiago de la ment, seeing it at a distance only ; and Vega towards St Ann's. This road in this Sir Edward Spragge was killed. has but sorry accommodation for Soon after I was sent to Harwich, with travellers. The first night I lay at the rest of the sick and wounded ; and a poor hunter's hut, at the foot of having languished a great while, I Mount Diabolo [ Devil's Mountain], went home to my brother to recover on the south side of it, where for my health. By this time the war want of clothes to cover me in the with the Dutch was concluded ; and night I was very cold when the land The next with my health I recovered my old wind sprang up. inclination for the sea. A neighbour day, crossing Mount Diabolo, I got a ing gentleman, Colonel Hellier of hard lodging at the foot of it on the East Coker in Somersetshire, my north side ; and the third day after native parish, made me a seasonable arrived at Captain Heming's planta offer to go and manage a plantation tion. I was clearly out of my element of his in Jamaica, under one Mr there ; and therefore, as soon as Cap Whalley for which place I set out tain Heming came thither, I disen with Captain Kent in the Content of gaged myself from him, and took my London. I was then about twenty passage on board a sloop to Port two years old, and had never been in Royal, with one Mr Statham, who the West Indies ; and therefore, lest used to trade round the Island , and I might be trepanned and sold as a touched there at that time. From servant after my arrival in Jamaica, Port Royal I sailed with one Mr I agreed with Captain Kent to work Fishook, who traded to the north as a seaman for my passage, and had side of the Island, and sometimes it under his hand to be cleared at our round it ; and by these coasting firstarrival. We sailed out ofthe River voyages I came acquainted with all Thames in the beginning of the year the ports and bays about Jamaica, as 1674, and, meeting with favourable also with the benefit of the land and winds, in a short time got into the sea winds. For our business was to trade-wind and went merrily along, bring goods to, or carry them from steering for the Island of Barbadoes. planters to Port Royal ; and we were When we came in sight of it Captain always entertained civilly by them, Kent told his passengers, if they both in their houses and plantations, would pay his port charges he would having liberty to walk about and anchor in the road, and stop whilst view them. They gave us also plan they got refreshment ; but the mer tains, yams, potatoes, &c. , to carry chants not caring to part with their aboard with us ; on which we fed money, he bore away, directing his commonly all our voyage. But after course towards Jamaica, six or seven months I left that employ where we arrived, bringing also, and shipped myself aboard one with us the first news they had of Captain Hudswell, who was bound to the peace with the Dutch. Here, the Bay of Campeachyto load logwood. according to my contract, I was im We sailed from Port Royal about the mediately discharged ; and the next beginning of August, in 1675, in day I went to the Spanish Town, company with Captain Wren in a called Santiago de la Vega ; where small Jamaica bark, and Captain meeting with Mr Whalley, we went Johnson, commander of a ketch_be together to Colonel Hellier's planta longing to New England. This tion in Sixteen- Mile Walk. voyage is all the way before the I lived with Mr Whalley at Sixteen wind, and therefore ships commonly Mile Walk for almost six months, sail it in twelve or fourteen days : and then entered myself into the neither were we longer in our pas service of one Captain Heming, to sage ; for we had very fair weather, manage his plantation at St Ann's, and touched nowhere till we came to
89 1675. ] CUTTING LOGWOOD IN CAMPEACHY BAY. Trist Island , in the Bay of Campeachy, I and by that means made the quicker which is the only place they go to. despatch. I made two or three trips Trist is the road only for to their huts, where I and those with big ships. Smaller vessels that draw me were always very kindly enter but a little water run three leagues tained by them with pork and pease, farther, by crossing over a great or beef and dough-boys. Their beef lagoon that runs from the island up they got by hunting in the savannahs. into the mainland ; where they anchor As long as the liquor lasted which at a place called One Bush Key. We they bought of us, we were treated stayed at Trist three days to fill our with it, either in drams or punch. water, and then with our two consorts · · • It was the latter end of sailed thence with the tide of flood ; September 1675, when we sailed from and the same tide arrived there. One Bush Key with the tide of ebb, This Key is not above forty paces and anchored again at Trist that same long, and five or six broad, having tide ; where we watered our vessel in only a little crooked tree growing on order to sail. This we accomplished it, and for that reason it is called in two days, and the third day sailed One Bush Key. • [It] is from Trist towards Jamaica. A voyage about a mile from the shore ; and which proved very tedious and hazard just against the island is a small ous to us, by reason of our ship's creek that runs a mile farther, and being so sluggish a sailer that she then opens into another wide lagoon ; would not ply to windward, whereby and through this creek the logwood wewere necessarilydrivenupon several is brought to the ships riding at the shoals that otherwise we might have Key. Here we lay to take avoided, and forced to spend thirteen in our lading. Our cargo to purchase weeks inour passage, [which ] is usually logwood was rum and sugar ; a very accomplished in half that time. good commodity for the logwood [Dampier gives a long and particu cutters, who were then about 250 lar account of the voyage to Jamaica, men, most English, that had settled with descriptions of the Alacranes themselves in several places here Islands or Reefs on which the ship abouts. Neither was it long before struck, and the Island of Pines, near we had these merchants come aboard Cuba, on which the crew landed in to visit us. We were but six men pursuit of food. After narrowly es and a boy in the ship, and all little caping capture by the Spaniards, enough to entertain them ; for be shipwreck, and death by starvation, sides what rum we sold by the gallon the mountains of Jamaica were sight or firkin, we sold it made into punch, ed, and the ship anchored at Negril. ] wherewith they grew frolicsome. We As soon as we came to anchor, we had none but small arms to fire at sent our boat ashore to buy provisions their drinking healths, and therefore to regale ourselves, after our long the noise was not very great at a dis fatigue and fasting, and were very tance ; but on board the vessels we busy going to drink a bowl of punch ; were loud enough till all our liquor when unexpectedly Captain Rawlings, was spent. We took no money for commander of a small New England it, nor expected any ; for logwood vessel that we left at Trist, and Mr was what we came hither for, and we John Hooker, who had been in the had of that in lieu of our commodi Bay [ of Campeachy] a twelvemonth ties after the rate of £5 per ton, to be cutting logwood, and was now com paid at the place where they cut it ; ing up to Jamaica to sell it, came and we went with our long boat to aboard, and were invited into the fetch small quantities. But because cabin to drink with us. The bowl it would have taken up a long time to had not yet been touched (I think load our vessel with our own boat there might be six quarts in it), but only, we hired a periago of the log Mr Hooker being drunk to by Captain wood cutters, to bring it on board, Rawlings, who pledged Captain Hud
[1675-76. 90 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. swell, and having the bowl in his about 260 or 270 men living in all hand, said, that he was under an oath the lagoon and at Beef Island. This to drink but three draughts of strong trade had its rise from the decay liquor a day ; and putting the bowl of privateering ; for after Jamaica to his head, turned it off at one was well settled by the English, and draught, and so making himself a peace established with Spain, the drunk, disappointed us of our expecta Privateers, who had hitherto lived tions, till we made another bowl. upon plundering the Spaniards, were The next day, having a brisk NW. put to their shifts ; for they had pro • we arrived at Port digally spent whatever they got, and wind, Royal, and so ended this troublesome now wanting subsistence, were2 forced voyage. It was not long after our either to go to Petit Goave, where arrival at Port Royal, before we were the Privateer trade still continued, or paid off, and discharged. Now, Cap into the Bay for logwood. The more tain Johnson of New England being industrious sort of them came hither ; bound again into the Bay of Cam yet even these, though they could peachy, I took the opportunity of go work well enough if they pleased, ing a passenger with him, being re yet thought it a dry business to toil solved to spend some time at the log at cutting wood. They were good wood trade ; and accordingly provided marksmen, and so took more delight such necessaries as were required in hunting ; but neither of these em about it, viz., hatchets, axes, ployments affected them 3³ so much as macheats 1 (ie. , long knives), saws, privateering ; therefore they often wedges, &c., a pavilion to sleep in, a made sallies out in small parties gun, with powder and shot, &c. And among the nearest Indian towns, leaving a letter of attorney with Mr where they plundered, and brought Fleming, a merchant of Port Royal, away the Indian women to serve as well to dispose of anything that I them at their huts, and sent their should send up to him, as to remit to husbands to be sold at Jamaica. me what I should order, I took leave Besides, they had not their old drink of my friends, and embarked. About ing-bouts forgot, and would still the middle of February 1675-6 we spend £30 or £40 at a sitting aboard sailed from Jamaica, and with a fair the ships that came hither from wind and weather soon got as far as Jamaica, carousing and firing offguns Cape Catoche and there met a pretty three or four days together. And strong north, which lasted two days. though afterwards many sober men After that the trade [wind] settled came into the Bay to cut wood, yet again at ENE. , which speedily carried by degrees the old standers so de us to Trist Island. In a little time I bauched them, that they could never settled myself in the west creek of the settle themselves under any civil west lagoon with some old logwood government, but continued in their cutters, to follow the employment wickedness till the Spaniards, en with them. couraged by their careless rioting, [Dampier here suspends " the re fell upon them, and took most of lation of his own affairs," to give a them singly at their own huts, and long description of the coast and carried them away prisoners to Cam country bordering on the Bay of Cam peachy or La Vera Cruz ; from whence peachy, with its natural products by they were sent to Mexico, and sold land and sea ; and an account of the to several tradesmen in that city ; life and habits of the logwood cutters. ] and from thence, after two or three · The logwood trade was years, when they could speak Spanish, grown very common before I came many of them made their escapes, hither, there being, as I said before, 2 See page 166 . 1 Spanish, " machete, " a long knife, 3 They affected, or relished, neither or cutlass. of these employments.
91 1676. ] MANNER OF CUTTING AND SHIPPING LOGWOOD. and marched in by paths back to La | This wood lay all in the circumference Vera Cruz, and [were] by the Flota¹ of 500 or 600 yards, and about 300 conveyed to Spain, and so to England . from the creek side, in the middle of I have spoken with many of them a very thick wood, impassable with since, who told me that none of them burthens. The first thing we did were sent to the silver mines to work, was to bring it all to one place in the but kept in or near the city, and middle ; and from thence we cut a never suffered to go with their cara very large path to carry it to the vans to New Mexico or that way. I creek's side. We laboured hard at relate this, because it is generally this work five days in the week, and suggested that the Spaniards common on Saturdays went into the savannahs When ly send their prisoners thither, and and killed beeves. use them yery barbarously ; but I my month's service was up, in which could never learn that any European time we brought down all the wood has been thus served ; whether for to the creek's side, I was presently fear of discovering their weakness, or paid my ton of logwood ; with which, for any other reason, I know not. and some more that I borrowed, I But to proceed : it is most certain bought a little provision, and was that the logwood cutters that were afterwards entertained as a companion in the Bay when I was there were at work with some of my former all routed or taken ; a thing I ever masters ; for they presently broke up feared ; and that was the reason consortships, letting the wood lie that moved me at last to come away, till either Mr West came to fetch it, although at a place where a man according to his contract, or else till . they should otherwise dispose of it. might have gotten an estate.² Though I was a stranger to their em Some of them immediately went to ployment and manner of living, as Beef Island, to kill bullocks for their being known but to those few only of hides, which they preserve. • whom we bought our wood in my I was yet a stranger to this work, former voyage hither, yet that little therefore remained with three of the acquaintance I then got encouraged old crew to cut more logwood. • me to visit them after my second [By and by, two of the company, arrival here, being in hopes to strike Scotsmen, get tired of the work and in to work with them. There were go away, the third - a Wels hman, six in company, who had a hundred Price Morris by name, though the tons ready cut, logged, and chipped, author calls him a Scotsman also but not brought to the creek's side ; proves lazy and self-indulgent ; and and they expected a ship from New Dampier " keeps to his work by him England in a month or two, to fetch self. ' He is hindered, however, by it away. When I came thither they a growth of worms in his leg ; after were beginning to bring it to the ward a great storm makes the region creek ; and because the carriage is the so uninhabitable, that with some hardest work, they hired me to help other cutters he takes his departure for them, at the rate of a ton of wood per One Bush Key, and finding little aid month ; promising me that after this from the ships there, themselves suffi carriage was over I should strike in ciently distressed, goes to Beef Island, to work with them, for they were all to hunt cattle for the sake of their obliged in bonds to procure this 100 hides. Dampier describes very min tons jointly together, but for no more. utely the features, peoples, and pro ducts of the southern and western An explanation of the terms coasts of the Bay of Campeachy ; in Armada and Flota will be found in cidentally, in his mention of Vera Chapter VII. of the Voyage : see Cruz, giving the following account of page 161 ; and the Flota is described the Spanish West Indian squadrons :] on next page. 2 Enriched himself. 3 Broad.
92
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [1676-79. The Flota comes hither every three wounded in taking the fort ; being years from Old Spain ; and besides four or five hours engaged in that goods of the product of the country, service, in which time the inhabitants, and what is brought from the East having plenty of boats and canoes, Indies [across New Spain from the carried all their riches and best mov port of Neapulco ] and shipped aboard ables away. It was after sunset before them, the King's plate that is gathered the fort yielded ; and growing dark, in this kingdom, together with what we could not pursue them, but rested belongs to the merchants, amounts to quietly that night ; the next day we a vast sum. Here also comes every killed, salted, and sent aboard twenty year the Barralaventa Fleet in Octo or thirty beeves, and a good quantity ber or November, and stays till of salt fish, and Indian corn, as much March. This is a small squadron, as we could stow away. Here were consisting of six or seven sail of stout but few hogs, and those ate very fishy ; ships, from 20 to 50 guns. These are therefore we did not much esteem ordered to visit all the Spanish sea them, but of cocks, hens, and ducks port towns once every year, chiefly to were sent aboard in abundance. hinder foreigners from trading, and to So that, with provision chests, hen suppress Privateers. If they coops, and parrot-cages, our ships were meet with any English or Dutch trad | full of lumber, with which we intend ing-sloops, they chase and take them, ed to sail ; but the second day after if they are not too nimble for them ; we took the fort, having had a west the Privateers keep out of their way, erly wind all the morning, with rain , having always intelligence where they seven armadilloes that were sent from are. La Vera Cruz appeared in sight, [The personal narrative is resumed within a mile of the bar, coming in and concluded thus : ] with full sail. But they could scarce The account I have given of the stem the current of the river ; which Campeachy rivers, &c. , was the result was very well for us, for we were not of the particular observations I made a little surprised . Yet we got under in cruising about that coast, in which sail, in order to meet them ; and clear I spent eleven or twelve months. For ing our decks by heaving all the lum when the violent storm before-men ber overboard, we drove out over the tioned took us, I was but just settling bar, before they reached it : but they to work ; and not having a stock of being to windward, forced us to ex wood to purchase such provision as change a few shot with them. Their was sent from Jamaica, as the old admiral was called the Toro ; she had standards had, I, with many more in 10 guns and 100 men ; another had my circumstances, was forced to range 4 guns and 80 men : the rest, having about to seek a subsistence in company no great guns, had only 60 or 70 men of some Privateers then in the Bay. a piece, armed with muskets, and the In which rambles we visited all the vessels barricaded round with bull rivers, from Trist to Alvarado ; and hides breast high. We had not above made many descents into the country 50 men in both ships, 6 guns in one among the villages there, where we and 2 in the other. As soon as we got Indian corn to eat with the beef were over the bar, we got our larboard and other flesh that we got by the way, tacks aboard and stood to the east or manatee, ¹ and turtle, which was ward, as nigh the wind as we could also a great support to us. Alvarado lie. The Spaniards came away quar was the westernmost place I was at. tering on us ; and, our ship being the Thither we went in two barks with headmost, the Toro came directly to thirty men in each, and had ten or wards us, designing to board us. We eleven men killed and desperately kept firing at her, in hopes to have lamed either mast or yard ; but fail 1 Described in Voyage, Chapter III. ing, just as she was sheering aboard, page 111 . we gave her a good volley, and pre
THE EPISTLE DEDICATORY. 93 1676-79. ] sently clapped the helm a-weather, | amongst the rest fell to work in the wore our ship, and got our starboard east lagoon, where I remained till my After tacks aboard, and stood to the west- departure for Jamaica. ward and so left the Toro, but were I had spent about ten or twelve months saluted byall the smallcraft as we pass- at the logwood trade, and was grown ed bythem, who stood to the eastward, pretty well acquainted with the way after the Toro, that was now in pur- of traffic here, I left the employment ; suit [of] and close by our consort. We yet with a design to return hither stood to the westward till we were after I had been in England ; and against the river's mouth ; then we accordingly went from hence with tacked, and by the help of a current Captain Chambers of London, bound that came out of the river, we were to Jamaica. We sailed from Trist near a mile to windward of them all the beginning of April 1678, and then we made sail to assist our con- arrived at Jamaica in May, where I sort, who was hard put to it ; but on remained a small time, and then re our approach the Toro edged away to- turned for England with Captain wards the shore, as did all the rest, Loader of London. I arrived there and stood away for Alvarado ; and we, the beginning of August the same glad of the deliverance, went away to year ; and at the beginning of the the eastward, and visited all the rivers following year I set out again for in our return again to Trist. . . . And Jamaica, in order to have gone thence now the effects of the late storm being to Campeachy : but it proved to be a almost forgot, the lagoon men settled Voyage round the World. · again to their employments ; and Il
MR WILLIAM DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE TERRESTRIAL GLOBE.
THE EPISTLE DEDICATORY. TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE CHARLES MOUNTAGUE, ESQ., President of the Royal Society, One of the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury, &c. SIR,-May it please you to pardon the boldness of a stranger to your person, if upon the encouragement of common fame he presumes so much upon your candour, as to lay before you this Account of his Travels. As the scene of them is not only remote, but for the most part little frequented |
also, so there may be some things in them new even to you, and some, possibly, not altogether unuseful to the public : And that just veneration which the world pays, as to your general worth, so especially to that zeal for the advancement ofknowledge and the interest of your country which you express upon all occasions, gives you a particular right to whatever may any way tend to the promoting these interests, as an offering due to your merit. I have not so much of the vanity of a traveller, as to be fond of telling stories especially of
94 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. this kind ; nor can I think this plain they occurred ; for which end I kept piece of mine deserves a place among a Journal of every day's observations. In the description of places, their your more curious collections, much produce, &c., I have endeavoured to less have I the arrogance to use your give what satisfaction I could to my name by way of patronage for the too countrymen ; though possibly to the obvious faults both of the Author and describing several things that may the Work. Yet dare I avow, accord have been much better accounted for by others ; choosing to be more parti ing to my narrow sphere and poor cular than might be needful with abilities, a heavy zeal for the promot respect to the intelligent Reader, ing of useful knowledge, and of any rather than to omit what I thought thing that may never so remotely might tend to the information of per tend to my country's advantage ; and sons no less sensible and inquisitive, I must own an ambition of transmit though not so learned or experienced. For which reason my chief care hath ting to the public through your hands been to be as particular as was consist these essays I have made toward those ent with my intended brevity in set great ends of which you are so deserv ting down such observables ¹ as I met edly esteemed the patron. This hath with, nor have I given myself any trouble since my return to com been my design in this publication, great pare my discoveries with those of being desirous to bring in my glean others ; the rather, because, should it ings here and there in remote regions, so happen that I have described some to that general magazine of the know places or things which others have done ledge of foreign parts which the Royal before me, yet in different accounts, of the same things, it can hardly Society thought you most worthy the even be but there will be some new light custody of when they chose you for afforded by each of them. But after their President ; and if in perusing all, considering that the main of this these papers your goodness shall so voyage hath its scene laid in long far distinguish the experience of the tracts of the remoter parts both ofthe Author from his faults, as to judge East and West Indies, some of which are very seldom visited by English him capable of serving his country men, and others as rarely by any either immediately, or by serving Europeans, I may without vanity en you, he will endeavour by some real courage the Reader to expect many things wholly new to him, and many proofs to show himself, others more fully described than he may have seen elsewhere ; for which Sir, Your most Faithful, not only this Voyage, though itself Devoted, Humble Servant, of many years' continuance, but also several former long and distant voy W. DAMPIER. ages, have qualified me. As for the actions of the company among whom I made the greatest part of this Voyage, a thread of which I THE PREFACE. have carried on through it, it is not to divert the Reader with them that I BEFORE the Reader proceeds any mention them, much less that I take further in the perusal of this Work, any pleasure in relating them, but for I must bespeak a little of his patience method's sake, andfortheReader's satis here, to take along with him this short faction, who could notso well acquiesce account of it. It is composed of a in my description ofplaces, &c. , without mixed relation of places and actions, in the same order of time in which 1 Notable things or incidents.
95 AUTHOR'S PREFACE AND INTRODUCTION. I have nothing more to add, but that there are here and there some mistakes made, as to expression and the like, which will need a favourable correction as they occur upon reading. For instance, the log of wood lying out at some distance from [the] sides of the boats described at Guam, and parallel to their keel, which for dis tinction's sake I have called the little boat, might more clearly and properly have been called the side-log, or by some such name ; for though [it is] fashioned at the bottom and ends boatwise, yet [it] is not hollow at top, but solid throughout. In other places also I may not have expressed myself so fully as I ought : but any considerable omission that I shall re collect, or be informed of, I shall en deavour to make up in these accounts I have yet to publish ; and for any faults I leave the Reader to the joint use of his judgment and candour.
knowing the particular traverses I made among them ; nor in these, without an account of the concomitant circumstances ; besides that I would not prejudice the truth and sincerity of my relation, though by omissions only. And as for the traverses them selves, they make for the Reader's advantage, how little soever for mine, since thereby I have been the better enabled to gratify his curiosity ; as one who rambles about a country can give usually a better account of it, than a carrier who jogs on to his inn without ever going out of his road. As to my style, it cannot be ex pected that a seaman should affect po liteness ; for were I able to do it, yet I think I should be little solicitous about it in a work of this nature. I have fre quently indeed divested myself of sea phrases to gratify the land Reader ; for which the seamen will hardly forgive me ; and yet possibly I shall not seem complacent enough to the other ; be cause I still retain the use of so many sea-terms. I confess I have not been at all scrupulous in this mat ter, either as to the one or the other of these ; for I am persuaded, that if what I saybe intelligible, it matters not greatly in what words it is expressed. For the same reason I have not been curious as to the spelling of the names of places, plants, fruits, animals, &c., which in many of these remoter parts are given at the pleasure of tra vellers, and vary according to their different humours : neither have I confined myself to such names as are given by learned authors, or so much as inquired after many of them. I write for my countrymen ; and have therefore for the most part used such names as are familiar to our English seamen, and those of our colonies abroad, yet without neglecting others that occurred. And it may suffice me to have given such names and descrip tions as I could : I shall leave to those of more leisure and opportunity the trouble of comparing these with those which other authors have de signed. ·
THE INTRODUCTION. I FIRST set out of England on this voyage at the beginning of the year 1679, in the Loyal Merchant of Lon don, bound for Jamaica, Captain Knapman, commander. I went a passenger, designing when I came thither to go from thence to the Bay of Campeachy, in the Gulf of Mexico, to cut logwood ; where in a former voyage I had spent about three years in that employ, and so was well ac quainted with the place and the work. We sailed with a prosperous gale, without any impediment or re markable passage in our voyage : un less that, when we came in sight of the Island of Hispaniola, and were coasting along on the south side ofit. by the little Isles of Vacca, or Ash, ³ I
which refer to the Appendices already noticed, and to the " maps and draughts " that illustrated the earlier editions of the work. 2 Chapter X. 8 La Vache is a small island at the 1 Two paragraphs are omitted here, south-west end of Hayti ; in Dam
96 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE observed Captain Knapman was more vigilant than ordinary, keeping at a good distance off shore, for fear of com ing too nearthose small low islands ; as he did once, in a voyage from England, about the year 1673, losing his ship there by the carelessness of his mates. But we succeeded better, and arrived safe at Port Royal in Jamaica some time in April 1679, and went im mediately ashore. I had brought some goods with me from England which I intended to sell here, and stock myself with rum and sugar, saws, axes, hats, stockings, shoes, and such other commodities as I knew would sell among the Cam peachy logwood cutters. According Îy I sold my English cargo at Port Royal ; but upon some maturer con siderations of my intended voyage to Campeachy, I changed my thoughts of that design, and continued at Jamaica all that year, in expectation of some other business. I shall not trouble the Reader with my observations at that isle, so well known to Englishmen ; nor with the particulars of my own affairs during my stay there. But in short, having there made a purchase of a small estate in Dorsetshire, near my native country of Somerset, of one whose title to it I was well assured of, I was just embarking myself for Eng land, about Christmas 1679, when one Mr Hobby invited me to go first a short trading voyage to the country of the Mosquitoes. I was willing to get up some money before my return, having laid out what I had at Jamaica ; so I sent the writing of my new pur chase along with the same friends whom I should have accompanied to England, and went on board Mr Hobby. Soon after our setting out, we came to an anchor again in Negril Bay, at the west end ofJamaica ; but finding there CaptainsCoxon, Sawkins, Sharpe, and other Privateers, Mr Hobby's men all left him to go with them upon an expedition they had contrived, leaving not one with him
ROUND THE WORLD. [3079. besides myself ; and being thus left alone, after three or four days' stay with Mr Hobby, I was the more easily persuaded to go with them too. It was shortly after Christmas 1679 when we set out. The first expedi tion was to Portobello, which being accomplished, it was resolved to march by land over the Isthmus of Darien, upon some new adventures in the South Seas. Accordingly, on the 5th of April 1680, we went ashore on the Isthmus, near Golden Island, one ofthe Sambaloes, ¹ to the number ofbe tween 300and 400 men, carrying with us such provisions as were necessary, and toys wherewith to gratify the wild Indians through whose country we were to pass. In about nine days' march we arrived at Santa Maria, and took it ; and after a stay there of about three days, we went on to the South Sea coast, and there embarked ourselves in such canoes and periagoes, 2 as our Indian friends fur nished us withal. We were in sight of Panama by the 23d of April, and having in vain attempted Pueblo Nuevo, before which Sawkins, then commander-in-chief, and others, were killed, we made some stay at the neighbouring Isles of Quibo. Here we resolved to change our course and stand away to the southward for the coast of Peru. Accordingly we left the Keys or Isles of Quibo the 6th of June, and spent the rest of the year in that southern course ; for, touch ing at the isles of Gorgona and Plata, we came to Ylo, a small town on the coast of Peru, and took it. This was in October, and in November we went thence to Coquimbo on the same coast, and about Christmas were got as far as the Isle of Juan Fernan
1 Probably corresponding with what is now called the Muletas Archi pelago, a number of small islands and rocks extending along the north eastern coast of the Isthmus of Darien, from Point San Blas. 2 Piroques ; large canoes made square at one of the ends ; called " pier's time called " Ash " by English also " piraguas : " Italian, " piroga ; seamen. | Spanish, " piragua. "
THE BUCCANEERS PART COMPANY. 1681. ] 97 dez, which was the farthest of our clared myself on the side of those After that were outvoted ; and, according course to the southward. Christmas, we went back again to to our agreement, we took our shares the northward, having a design upon of such necessaries as were fit to Arica, a strong town advantageously carry overland with us (for that was situated in the hollow of the elbow our resolution), and so prepared for or bending of the Peruvian coast. our departure. But being there repulsed with great loss, we continued our course north ward, till by the middle of April we CHAPTER I. were come in sight of the Isle of Plata, a little to the southward of the Equinoctial Line. APRIL the 17th, 1681 , about 10 While we lay at the Isle of Juan o'clock in the morning, being twelve Fernandez, Captain Sharpe¹ was by leagues NW. from the Island of Plata, general consent displaced from being we left Captain Sharpe and those who commander, the company being not were willing to go with him in the satisfied either with his courage or ship, and embarked into our launch In his stead, Captain and canoes, designing for the River behaviour. Watling was advanced ; but, he being of Santa Maria, in the Gulf of San killed shortly after before Arica, we Miguel, which is about 200 leagues were without a commander during all from the Isle of Plata. We were in the rest of our return towards Plata. number forty-four white men, who Now, Watling being killed, a great bore arms ; a Spanish Indian, who number of the meaner sort began to bore arms also ; and two Mosquito be as earnest for choosing Captain Indians, who always bare arms Sharpe again into the vacancy, as be amongst the Privateers, and are much fore they had been as forward as any to valued by them for striking fish and turn him out ; and, on the other side, turtle, or tortoise, and manatee or the abler and more experienced men, sea-cow ; and five slaves taken in the being altogether dissatisfied with South Seas, who fell to our share. Sharpe's former conduct, would by The craft which carried us was a no means consent to have him chosen. launch or longboat, one canoe, and In short, by the time we were come another canoe which had been sawn in sight of the Island of Plata, the asunder in the middle, in order to difference between the contending have made bumkins, or vessels for parties was grown so high, that they carrying water, if we had not se This we resolved to part companies, having parated from our ship. first made an agreement, that which joined together again and made it party soever should, upon polling, tight, providing sails to help us along; appear to have the majority, they and for three days before we parted, should keep the ship, and the other we sifted as much flour as we could should content themselves with the well carry, and rubbed up 20 or 30 lbs. launch or longboat, and canoes, and of chocolate, with sugar to sweeten return back over the Isthmus, or go it ; these things and a kettle the to seek their fortune other ways, as slaves carried also on their backs they would. Accordingly, we put it after we landed. And because there to the vote, and, upon dividing, were some who designed to go with Captain Sharpe's party carried it. I, us that we knew were not well able who had never been pleased with his to march, we gave out, that if any management, though I had hitherto man faltered in the journey overland, kept my mind to myself, now de he must expect to be shot to death ;
2 Now, apparently, the Tuyra, 1 Who had been made chief in com mand after Sawkins was killed at which flows into the south-east cor ner ofthe Gulf. Pueblo Nuevo. G
98
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
for we knew that the Spaniards would soon be after us, and one man falling into their hands might be the ruin of us all, by giving an account of our strength and condition ; yet, this would not deter them from going with us. We had but little wind when we parted from the ship, but before 12 o'clock the sea breeze came in strong, which was like to founder us before we got in with the shore. For our security, therefore, we cut up an old dry hide that we brought with us, and barricaded the launch all round with it, to keep the water out. About 10 o'clock at night we got in about seven leagues to windward of Cape Pasado, under the Line, and then it proved calm, and we lay and drove all night, being fatigued the preceding day. The 18th we had little wind till the afternoon, and then we made sail, standing along the shore to the northward, having the wind at SSW. , and fair weather. At 7 o'clock we came abreast of Cape Pasado, and found a small bark at anchor in a small bay to leeward of the Cape, which we took, our own boats being too small to transport us. We took her just under the Equinoc tial Line. She was not only a help to us, but in taking her we were safe from being described. We did not design to have meddled with any when we parted with our consorts, nor to have seen any if we could have helped it. The bark came from Gallo, laden with timber, and was bound for Guayaquil. The 19th, in the morning, we came to an anchor about twelve leagues to the southward of Cape San Francisco, to put our new bark into a better trim. In three or four hours' time we finished our business, and came to sail again, and steered along the coast with the wind at SSW., intending to touch at Gor gona. Being to the northward of Cape San Francisco, we met with very wet weather ; but, the wind continuing, we arrived at Gorgona the 24th, in the morning, before it was light : we were afraid to approach it in the day time, for fear the Spaniards should
[CHAP. I. lie there for us, it being the place where we careened lately, and where they might expect us. When we came ashore we found the Spaniards had been there to seek after us, by a house they had built which would entertain 100 men, and by a great cross before the doors. This was token enough that the Spaniards did ex pect us this way again, therefore we examined our prisoners if they knew anything of it, who confessed they had heard of a periago, that rowed with fourteen oars, which was kept in a river on the main, and once in two or three days came over to Gorgona purposely to seek for us ; and that, having discovered us, she was to make all speed to Panama with the news, where they had three ships ready to send after us. We lay here all the day, and scrubbed our new bark, that if ever we should be chased we might the better escape ; we filled our water, and in the evening went from thence, having the wind at SW. , a brisk gale. The 25th we had much wind and rain, and we lost the canoe that had been cut and was joined to gether ; we would have kept all our canoes to carry us up the river, the bark not being so convenient. The 27th we went from thence with a moderate gale of wind at SW. In the afternoon we had excessive showers of rain. The 28th was very wet all the morn ing ; betwixt ten and eleven it cleared up, and we saw two great ships about a league and a half to the westward of us, we being then two leagues from the shore, and about ten leagues to the southward of Point Garachina. These ships had been cruising be tween Gorgona and the Gulf six months ; but whether our prisoners did know it, I cannot tell. We pre sently furled our sails, and rowed in close under the shore, knowing that they were cruisers. The glare did not continue long before it rained again, and kept us from the sight of each other ; but if they had seen and chased us, we were resolved to run our bark and canoes ashore, and take ourselves to the mountains and travel
IN DANGER FROM THE SPANIARDS. 99 1681. ] overland, for we knew that the In | land, seeing we could not land here dians which lived in these parts never according to our desire ; therefore, had anycommerce with the Spaniards, before the tide of flood was spent, we so we might have had a chance for manned our canoe and rowed again our lives. The 29th, at 9 o'clock in the to the island, to see if the enemy was morning, we came to an anchor at yet in motion. When we came ashore Point Garachina, about seven leagues we dispersed ourselves all over the from the Gulf of San Miguel, which island, to prevent our enemies from was the place where we first came in coming any way to view us ; and to the South Seas, and the way by presently after high water, we saw a which we designed to return. Here small canoe coming over from the we lay all the day, and went ashore ship to the island that we were on, and dried our clothes, cleaned our which made us all get into our canoe guns, dried our ammunition, and and wait their coming ; and we lay fixed ourselves¹ against our enemies if close till they came within pistol we should be attacked ; for we did shot of us, and then, being ready, we expect to find some opposition at started out and took them. There landing ; we likewise kept a good were in her one white man and two lookout all the day, for fear of those Indians, who, being examined, told two ships that we saw the day before. us that the ship which we saw at the The 30th, in the morning at 8 o'clock, river's mouth had lain there six we came into the Gulf of San Miguel's months guarding the river, waiting mouth ; for we put from Point Gar for our coming ; that she had 12 achina in the evening, designing to guns, and 150 seamen and soldiers ; have reached the islands in the Gulf that the seamen all lay aboard, but before day, that we might the better the soldiers lay ashore in their tent ; work our escape from our enemies, if that there were 300 men at the mines, we should find any of them waiting who had all small arms, and would to stop our passage. About 9 o'clock be aboard in two tides ' time. They we came to an anchor a mile without likewise told us, that there were two a large island, which lies four miles ships cruising in the bay, between from the mouth of the river ; we had this place and Gorgona ; the biggest other small islands without us, and had 20 guns and 200 men ; the other might have gone up into the river, 10 guns and 150 men. Besides all having a strong tide of flood, but this, they told us that the Indians on would not adventure farther till we this side the country were our ene had looked well about us. We im mies, which was the worst news of mediately sent a canoe ashore on the all. However, we presently brought island, where we saw (what we always these prisoners aboard, and got under feared) a ship at the mouth of the sail, turning out with the tide of ebb, river, lying close by the shore, and a for it was not convenient to stay large tent by it, by which we found longer there. We did not long con it would be a hard task for us to sider what to do, but intended to escape them. When the canoe came land that night or the next day be aboard with this news, some of our times ; for we did not question but men were a little disheartened ; but we should either get a good com it was no more than I ever expected. merce with the Indians by such toys Our care was now to get safe over as we had purposely brought with us, or else force our way through their 1 Prepared ourselves, put ourselves country in spite of all their opposi in trim the so-called Americanism tion ; and we did not fear what these "to fix," like other words now speci Spaniards could do against us in case ally used in the United States, having they should land and come after us. really its origin in a- possibly We had a strong southerly wind, technical or local- English use of the which blew right in ; and the tide of ebb being far spent, we could not word.
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. I. 100 turn out. I persuaded¹ them to run and Nicaragua. They are very inge into the River of Congo, which is a nious at throwing the lance, fisgig,4 large river, about three leagues from harpoon, or any manner of dart, being the islands where we lay ; which, with bred to it from their infancy, for the a southerly wind, we could have done ; children, imitating their parents, and when we were got as high as the never go abroad without a lance in tide flows, then we might have landed. their hands, which they throw at any But all the arguments I could use object, till use has made them masters were not of force sufficient to con of the art. Then they learn to put by5 vince them that there was a large a lance, arrow, or dart. The manner river so near us ; but they would is thus :-Two boys stand at a small land somewhere, they neither did distance, and dart a blunt stick at one know how, where, nor when. When another, each of them holding a small we had rowed and towed against the stick in his right hand, with which he wind all night, we just got about Cape strikes away that which was darted at San Lorenzo in the morning, and him. As they grow in years they be sailed about four miles farther to the come more dexterous and courageous, westward, and ran into a small creek and then they will stand a fair mark within two keys2 or little islands, and to any one that will shoot arrows at rowed upto thehead of the creek, being them, which they will put by with a about a mile up, and there we landed, very small stick no bigger than the May 1st, 1681. We got out all our rod of a fowling-piece ; and when they provision and clothes, and then sunk are grown to be men, they will guard our vessel. While we were landing themselves from arrows though they and fixing our snapsacks³ to marchi, come very thick at them, provided our Mosquito Indians struck a plenti two do not happen to come at once. ful dish of fish, which we immedi They have extraordinary good eyes, ately dressed, and therewith satisfied and will descry a sail at sea farther, our hunger. and see anything better, than we. Having made mention of the Mos Their chief employment in their own quito Indians, it may not be amiss to country is to strike fish, turtle, or conclude this Chapter with a short manatee, the manner of which I de account of them. They are tall, scribe elsewhere (Chapter III. ). For well made, rawboned, lusty, strong, this they are esteemed and coveted by and nimble of foot ; long-visaged, all Privateers, for one or two of them lank black hair, look stern, hard in a ship will maintain 100 men ; so favoured, and of a dark copper-colour that when we careen our ships, we ed complexion. They are but a small choose commonly such places where nation or family, and not 100 men of there is plenty of turtle or manatce them in number, inhabiting on the for these Mosquito men to strike ; and main, on the north side, near Cape it is very rare to find Privateers desti Gracias Dios, between Cape Honduras tute of one or more of them when the commander or most of the men are 1 Advised. English ; but they do not love the 2 A key or cay (Latin, " cautes, " French, and the Spaniards they hate a66 cliff; Spanish , " cayo ;" French, mortally. When they come among ' cayes ") is a low island or ledge of Privateers they get the use of guns, rocks rising above the water ; it is and prove very good marksmen . They generally of coralline formation, and behave themselves very boldly in differs from a reef inasmuch as the latter is either below water, or washed A kind of harpoon or spear, with by the waves. Keys are numerous several barbed prongs, and a line among the West Indian Islands, and attached ; it is used for striking fish in the Gulf of Mexico, &c. at sea, and99 is also called a " fishgig " 8 (Swedish, " snappäck ") soldiers' or 66 fisgy.' 5 Parry. bags, knapsacks.
101 1681.] DESCRIPTION OF THE MOSQUITO INDIANS. fight, and never seem to flinch nor sort of wild hogs-or deer, and sel hang back, for they think that the dom returns empty-handed, nor seeks White men with whom they are know for any more so long as any of it lasts. better than they do when it is best to Their plantations are so small that fight ; and, let the disadvantage of they cannot subsist with what they their party be never so great, they will produce, for their largest plantations never yield nor give back while any of have not above twenty or thirty plan their party stand. I could never per tain-trees, a bed of yams and pota ceive any religion, nor any ceremonies, toes, a bush of Indian pepper, and a or superstitious observations¹ among small spot of pine-apples, which last them, being ready to imitate us in fruit is a main thing they delight in, whatsoever they saw us do at any for with these they make a sort of time. Only they seem to fear the drink which our men call pine-drink, devil, whom they call Wallesaw ; and much esteemed by these Mosquitoes, they say he often appears to some and to which they invite each othe among them, whom our men com to be merry, providing fish and flesh monly call their priests, when they also. Whoever of them makes of this desire to speak with him on urgent liquor treats his neighbours, making business, but the rest know not any a little canoe full at a time, and so thing of him, nor how he appears, enough to make them all drunk ; and otherwise than as these priests tell it is seldom that such feasts are made them. Yet they all say they must but the party that makes them hath not anger him, for then he will beat some design, either to be revenged them, and that sometimes he carries for some injury done him, or to de away these their priests. Thus much bate of such differences as have hap I have heard from some of them who pened between him and his neigh bours, and to examine into the truth speak good English. They marry but one wife, with of such matters. Yet before they whom they live till death separates are warmed with drink they never them. At their first coming to speak one word of their grievances ; gether the man makes a very small and the women, who commonly know plantation, for there is land enough, their husbands ' designs, prevent them and they may choose what spot they from doing any injury to each other please. They delight to settle near by hiding their lances, harpoons, bows the sea, or by some river, for the sake and arrows, or any other weapon that of striking fish, their beloved employ they have. ment. Far within land there are While they are among the English other Indians with whom they are they wear good clothes, and take de always at war. After the man has light to go neat and tight ; but when cleared a spot of land, and has planted they return again to their own coun it, he seldom minds it afterwards but try they put by all their clothes, and leaves the managing of it to his wife, go after their own country fashion, and goes out a-striking. Sometimes wearing only a small piece of linen he seeks only for fish, at other times tied about their waists hanging down for turtle or manatee ; and whatever to their knees. he gets he brings home to his wife, and never stirs out to seek for more till it is all eaten. When hunger CHAPTER II. begins to bite, he either takes his canoc and seeks for more game at sea, or walks out into the woods and hunts BEING landed, May the 1st, we began about for peccary,2 warree-cach a our march about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, directing our course by our 1 Observances. pocket compasses NE.; and having 2 The Mexican hog, or tajaçu- gone about two miles we came to the foot of a hill, where we built small Dicotyles tajagri,
102 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. II . huts and lay all night, having exces Spanish, from whom we were in hopes sive rains till 12 o'clock. The 2d, in to be better satisfied of our journey. The 3d, having fair weather, we the morning, having fair weather, we ascended the hill, and found a small began to stir betimes, and set out Indian path, which we followed till betwixt 6 and 7 o'clock, marching we found it ran too much easterly, through several old ruined planta and then, doubting it would carry tions. This morning one of our men, us out of our way, we climbed some being tired , gave us the slip . By 12 of the highest trees on the hill, which o'clock we had gone eight miles, and was not meanly furnished with as arrived at the Indian's house, who lived large and tall trees as ever I saw. At on the bank of the River Congo, and length we discovered some houses in spoke very good Spanish ; to whom a valley on the north side of the hill, we declared the reason of this visit. but it being steep [we] could not de At first he seemed to be very dubious scend on that side, but followed the of entertaining any discourse with small path, which led us down the us, and gave very impertinent an hill on the east side, where we pre swers to the questions that we de sently found several other Indian manded of him ; he told us he knew houses. The first that we came to no way to the north side of the coun at the foot of the hill had none but try, but could carry us to Chepo, or women at home, who could not speak to Santa Maria, which we knew to Spanish, but gave each of us a good be Spanish garrisons, the one lying to calabash or shell full of corn-drink. the eastward of us, the other to the The other houses had some men westward either of them at least at home, but none that spoke twentymiles out of our way. We could Spanish ; yet we made a shift to get no other answer from him, and all buy such food as their houses or his discourse was in such an angry plantations afforded, which we dress tone as plainly declared he was not ed and ate all together, having all our friend. However, we were forced sorts of our provision in common, to make a virtue of necessity and because none should live better than humour him ; for it was neither time others, or pay dearer for anything nor place to be angry with the In than it was worth. This day we had dians, all our lives lying in their marched six miles. In the evening the hand. We were now at a great loss, husbands of those women came home, not knowing what course to take, for and told us in broken Spanish that we tempted him with beads, money, they had been on board the guard hatchets, macheats or long knives, ship which we fled from two days but nothing would work on him, till before ; that we were now not above one of our men took a sky-coloured three miles from the mouth of the petticoat out of his bag, and put it River of Congo, and that they could on his wife ; who was so much pleased go from thence aboard the guard-ship with the present, that she immedi in half a tide's time. This evening ately began to chatter to her husband, we supped plentifully on fowls and and soon brought him into a better peccary which we bought of the humour. He could then tell us that Indians ; yams, potatoes, and plan he knew the way to the north side, and tains served us for bread, whereof we would have gone with us, but that had enough. After supper we agreed he had cut his foot two days before, with one of these Indians to guide us which made him incapable of serving a day's march into the country to us himself: but he would take care wards the north side ; he was to have that we should not want a guide ; for his pains a hatchet, and his bar and therefore he hired the same In gain was to bring us to a certain dian who brought us hither, to con Indian's habitation who could speak duct us two days' march farther for another hatchet. The old man would 1 Suspecting, apprehending. have stayed us here all the day, be
A MARCH TO 1681. ] cause it rained very hard ; but our business required more haste, our enemies lying so near us, for he told us that he could go from his house aboard the guard-ship in a tide's time ; and this was the fourth day since they saw us. So we marched three miles farther, and then built huts, where we stayed all night ; it rained all the afternoon, and the greatest part of the night. The 4th, we began our march betimes, for the forenoons were commonly fair, but much rain after noon ; though whether it rained or shined it was much at one with us, for I verily believed we crossed the rivers thirty times this day: the Indians hav ing no paths to travel from one part of the country to another, and there fore, guidingthemselves by the rivers. We marched this day twelve miles, and then built our huts and lay down to sleep ; but we always kept two men on the watch, otherwise our own slaves might have knocked us on the head while we slept. It rained vio lently all the afternoon and most part of the night. We had much ado to kindle a fire this evening our huts were but very mean or ordinary, and our fire small, so that we could not dry our clothes, scarce warm ourselves, and no sort of food for the belly ; all which made it very hard with us. I confess these hardships quite expelled the thoughts of an enemy ; for now, having been four days in the country, we began to have but few other cares than how to get guides and food : the Spaniards were seldom inour thoughts. The 5th, we set out in the morning betimes, and having travelled seven miles in those wild pathless woods, by 10 o'clock in the morning we arrived at a young Spanish Indian's house who had formerly lived with the Bishop of Panama. The young Indian was very brisk, spoke very good Spanish, and received us very kindly. This plantation afforded us store of provi sion, yams, and potatoes, but nothing ofany flesh besides two fatmonkeys we shot, part whereof we distributed to some of our company who were weak and sickly ; for others we got eggs, and such refreshments as the Indians
103 THE COAST . had ; for we still provided for the sick and weak. We had a Spanish Indian in our company, who first took up arms with Captain Sawkins, and had been with us ever since his death. He was persuaded to live here by the master of the house, who promised him his sister in marriage, and to be assistant to him in clearing a planta tion ; but we would not consent to part with him here for fear of some treachery, but promised to release him in two or three days, when we were certainly out of danger of our enemies. We stayed here all the afternoon, dried our clothes and am munition, cleared our guns, and pro vided ourselves for a march the next morning. Our Surgeon, Mr Wafer, came to a sad disaster here. Being drying his powder, a careless fellow passed by with his pipe lighted, and set fire to his powder, which blew up and scorched his knee, and re duced him to that condition that he was not able to march ; wherefore we allowed him a slave to carry his things, being all of us the more concerned at the accident, because liable ourselves every moment to misfortune, and none to look after us but him. This Indian plantation was seated on the bank of the River Congo, in a very fat soil ; and thus far we might have come in our canoe, if I could have per suaded them to it. The 6th, we set out again, having hired another guide. Here we first crossed the River Congo in a canoe, having been from our first landing on the west side of the river ; and being over, we marched to the eastwards two miles, and came to another river, which we forded several times, though it was very deep. Two of our men were not able to keep company with us, but came after us as they were able. The last time we forded the river, it was so deep, that our tallest men stood in the deepest place and handed the sick, weak, and short men ; by which means we all got over safe, except those two who were behind. Foreseeing a necessity of wading through rivers frequently in our land march, I took care, before I
104 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. II. left the ship, to provide myself alarge | a line, who should haul over all our joint of bamboo, which I stopped at things first, and then get the men both ends, closing it with wax, so as over. This being agreed on, one to keep out any water. In this I George Gayny took the end of a line, preserved my journal and other writ and made it fast about his neck, and ings from being wet, though I was left the other end ashore ; and one often forced to swim. When we were man stood by the line, to clear it over this river, we sat down to wait away to him. But when Gayny was the coming of our consorts who were in the midst of the water, the line in left behind, and in half an hour they drawing after him chanced to kink, or came. But the river by that time grow entangled ; and he that stood was so high, that they could not get by to clear it away stopped the line, over it ; neither could we help them which turned Gayny on his back, over, but bid them be of good comfort and he that had the line in his hand and stay till the river did fall : but threw it all into the river after him, we marched two miles farther by the thinking he might recover himself ; side of the river, and there built our but the stream running very swift, huts, having gone this day six miles. and the man having three hundred We had scarce finished our huts be dollars at his back, [he] was carried fore the river rose much higher, and, down, and never seen more by us. overflowing the banks, obliged us to Those two men whom we left behind remove into higher ground : but the the day before told us afterwards that night came on before we could build they found him lying dead in a creek, more huts, so we lay straggling in the where the eddy had driven him ashore, woods, some under one tree, some and the money on his back ; but they under another, as we could find con meddled not with any of it, being veniency ; which might have been only in care how to work their way indifferent comfortable if the weather through a wild unknown country. had been fair, but the greatest part This put a period to that contrivance. of the night we had extraordinary This was the fourth man that we lost hard rain, with much lightning and in this land journey ; for those two terrible claps of thunder. These hard men that we left the day before did ships and inconveniences made us all not come to us till we were in the careless, and there was no watch kept North Seas, so we yielded them also (though I believe nobody did sleep) ; for lost. Being frustrated of getting so our slaves, taking opportunity, over the river this way, we looked went away in the night, all but one about for a tree to fell across the who was hid in some hole and knew river. At length we found one, which nothing of their design, or else fell we cut down, and it reached clear asleep. Those that went away carried over ; on this we passed to the other with them our Surgeon's gun and all side, where we found a small plantain his money. The next morning, be walk, which we soon ransacked. ing the 8th, we went to the river's While we were busy getting plantains, side and found it much fallen ; and our guide was gone ; but in less than here our guide would have us ford two hours came to us again, and it again, which, being deep, and brought with him an old Indian, to the current running swift, we could whom he delivered up his charge ; not. Then we contrived 1 to swim and we gave him a hatchet and dis over ; those that could not swim we missed him, and entered ourselves were resolved to help over as well as under the conduct of our new guide : we could ; but this was not so feasi who immediately led us away, and ble, for we should not be able to get crossed another river, and entered all our things over. At length we into a large valley of the fattest land concluded to send one man over with I did ever take notice of ; the trees were not very thick, but the largest 1 Planned, sought to devise means. that I saw in all my travels. We
THE MARCH 1681. ] saw great tracks which were made by the peccaries, but saw none of them. We marched in this pleasant country till 3 o'clock in the afternoon, in all about four miles, and then arrived at the old man's country-house, which was only a habitation for hunting ; there was a small plantain walk, some yams and potatoes. Here we took up our quarters for this day, and refreshed ourselves with such food as the place afforded, and dried our clothes and ammunition. At this place our young Spanish Indian pro vided to leave us, for now we thought ourselves past danger. This was he that was persuaded to stay at the last house we came from, to marry the young man's sister ; and we dismissed him according to our promise. The 9th the old man conducted us towards his own habitation. We marched about five miles in this valley, and then ascended a hill, and travelled about five miles farther over two or three small hills before we came to any settlement. Half a mile before we came to the plantations we light of a path, which carried us to the Indians' habitations. We saw many wooden crosses erected in the way, which created some jealousy 2 in us that here were some Spaniards ; therefore we new-primed all our guns, and provided ourselves for an enemy ; but coming into the town [we] found none but Indians, who were all got together in a large house to receive us for the old man had a little boy with him that he sent before. They made us welcome to such as they had, which was very mean ; for these were new plantations, the corn being not cared. Potatoes, yams, and plantains they had none but what they brought from their old plantations. There were none of them spoke good Span ish ; two young men could speak a little ; it caused us to take more notice of them. To these we made a present and desired them to get us a guide to conduct us to the north side,
105 CONTINUED. or part of the way ; which they pro mised to do themselves if we would reward them for it ; but told us we must lie still the next day. But we thought ourselves nearer the North Sea than we were, and proposed to go without a guide rather than stay here a whole day. However some of our men who were tired, resolved to stay behind ; and Mr Wafer, our Surgeon , who marched in great pain ever since his knee was burned with powder, was resolved to stay with them. The 10th we got up betimes , resolving to march, but the Indians opposed it as much as they could ; but seeing they could not persuade us to stay, they came with us ; and having taken leave of our friends we set out. Here therefore we left the Surgeon and two more, as we said, and marched away to the eastward, following our guides. But we often looked on our pocket compasses, and showed them to the guides , pointing at the way that we would go ; which made them shake their heads, and say they were pretty things, but not convenient for us. After we had ascended the hill on which the town stood, we came down into a valley, and guided ourselves by a river which we crossed thirty-two times ; and having marched nine miles, we built huts and lay there all night. This evening I killed a quam,*. a large bird as big as aturkey, where with we treated our guides ; for we brought no provision with us. This night our last slave ran away. The 11th we marched ten miles farther and built huts at night, but went supperless to bed. The 12th, in the morning we crossed a deep river, passing over it on a tree, and march ed seven miles in a low swampy ground , and came to the side of a great deep river, but could not get over. We built huts upon its banks, and lay there all night, upon our
3 Of no advantage. 4 Or Guan ; Penelope cristata, a bird resembling the curassow, thirty inches 1 Came upon, lighted upon. long, of a dusky black above, glossed 2 Suspicio ; n to " jalouse " is still with green and olive, the neck and breast spotted with white. used in Scotland for to suspect.
106 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. II. barbecues, or frames of sticks, raised | abode all day. Not a man of us but about three feet from the ground. wished the journey at an end : our The 13th, when we turned out, the feet being blistered, and our thighs river had overflowed its banks, and stripped with wading through so was two feet deep in our huts, and many rivers ; the way being almost our guides went from us, not telling continually through rivers or pathless us their intent, which made us think woods. In the afternoon five of us they were returned home again. Now went to seek for game, and killed we began to repent our haste in com three monkeys, which we dressed for ing from the last settlements, for we supper. Here we first began to have had no food since we came from fair weather, which continued with us Indeed we got macaw till we came to the North Seas. The thence. berries in this place, wherewith we 18th, we set out at 10 o'clock ; and satisfied ourselves this day, though the Indians with five canoes carried coarsely. The 14th, in the morning us a league up a river, and when we betimes, our guides came to us again, landed, the kind Indians went with and, the waters being fallen within us and carried our burthens. We their bounds, they carried us to a marched three miles farther, and tree that stood on the bank of the then built our huts, having travelled river, and told us if we could fell that from the last settlements six miles. tree across it, we might pass ; if not, The 19th, our guides lost their way, we could pass no farther. Therefore and we did not march above two we set two of the best axemen that we miles. The 20th, by 12 o'clock, we had, who felled it exactly across the came to Chepo River. The rivers river, and the boughs just reached we crossed hitherto, ran all into the over ; on this we passed very safe. South Seas ; and this of Chepo was We afterwards crossed another river the last we met that ran that way. three times, with much difficulty ; Here an old man who came from the and at 3 o'clock in the afternoon we last settlements distributed his bur came to an Indian settlement, where then of plantains amongst us, and we met a drove of monkeys, and taking his leave returned home. killed four of them, and stayed here Afterwards we forded the river and all night ; having marched this day marched to the foot of a very high six miles. Here we got plantains mountain, where we lay all night. enough, and a kind reception of the This day we marched about nine Indian that lived here all alone, ex miles. The 21st, some of the Indians cept one boy to wait on him. The returned back, and we marched up a 15th, when we set out, the kind very high mountain ; being on the Indian and his boy went with us in a top, we went some miles on a ridge, canoe, and set us over such places as and steep on both sides ; then de we could not ford, and being past scended a little, and came to a fine those great rivers he returned back spring, where we lay all night, having again, having helped us at least two gone this day about nine miles ; the miles. We marched afterwards five weather still very fair and clear. miles, and cameto large plantain walks, The 22d, we marched over another where we took up our quarters that very high mountain, keeping on the night ; wethere fed plentifully on plan ridge, five miles. When we came to tains, both ripe and green, and had the north end, we to our great com fair weather all the day and night. fort saw the sea ; then we descended I think these were the largest plan and parted ourselves into three com tain walks, and the biggest plantains panies, and lay by the side of a river, that ever I saw ; but no house [was] which was the first we met that runs near them. We gathered what we into the North Sea. The 23d, we pleased by our guides' orders. The came through several large plantain 16th, we marched three miles, and walks, and at 10 o'clock came to an came to a large settlement, where we Indian habitation not far from the
ON BOARD A PRIVATEER. 107 1681.7 North Sea. Here we got canoes to would have bestowed in goods also, carry us down the River Concepcion but could not get any, the Privateer to the seaside ; having gone this day having no more toys. They were so about seven miles. We found a great well satisfied with these, that they many Indians at the mouth of this returned with joy to their friends, river. They had settled themselves and were very kind to our consorts here for the benefit of trade with the whom we left behind ; as Mr Wafer Privateers, and their commodities our Surgeon, and the rest of them were yams, potatoes, plantains, sugar told us, when they came to us some canes, fowls, and eggs. These In months afterwards, as shall be said dians told us that there had been a hereafter. great many English and French ships here, which were all gone but one barcolongo, ¹ a French Privateer, that CHAPTER III. lay at La Sound's Key or Island . This island is about three leagues from the mouth of the River Concep THE Privateer on board which we cion, and is one of the Sambaloes, a went being now cleaned, and our In range of islands reaching for about dian guides satisfied and set ashore, twenty leagues from Point Samballas 2 we set sail in two days for Springer's to Golden Island eastward . These Key, another of the Sambaloes Isles, islands or keys, as we call them, were about seven or eight leagues from La first made the rendezvous of Priva Sound's Key. Here lay eight sail of teers in the year 1679, being very Privateers more, viz. : convenient for careening, and had and English names given to some of them by English commanders men. the Captains of the Privateers ; as Captain Coxon, 10 guns, 100 men. this La Sound's Key particularly. Captain Payne, 10 guns, 100 men. Thus we finished our journey from Captain Wright, a barcolongo, 4 the South Sea to the North in twenty 40 men. three days ; in which time, by my guns, Captain Williams, a small barco account, we travelled 110 miles, cross ing some very high mountains ; but longo. our common march was in the valleys Captain Yanky, a barcolongo, 4 among deep and dangerous rivers. guns, about 60 men, English, Dutch , On the 24th of May, having lain and French ; himself a Dutchman. one night at the river's mouth, we all French commanders and men. went on board the Privateer who lay Captain Archembo, 8 guns, 40 men. at La Sound's Key. It was a French Captain Tucker, 6 guns, 70 men. vessel ; Captain Tristian, commander. Captain Rose, a barcolongo. The first thing we did was to get such An hour before we came to the things as we could to gratify our Indian guides, for we were resolved fleet, Captain Wright, who had been to reward them to their hearts' con sent to the Chagres River, arrived at tent. This we did by giving them Springer's Key, with a large canoe or beads, knives, scissors, and looking periago laden with flour, which he glasses, which we bought of the took there. Some of the prisoners Privateer's crew ; and half-a-dollar belonging to the periago came from a man from each of us, which we Panama not above six days before he took her, and told the news of our 1 A small, low, long, sharp-built coming overland, and likewise related the condition and strength of Panama, vessel without a deck, going with oars "" which was the main thing they in and sails ; Spanish, " barcalonga." 2 Point San Blas, from which quired after ; for Captain Wright was Dampier's title for the islands seems sent thither purposely to get a prisoner that was able to inform them to be corrupted .
108
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. III. of the strength of that city, because how many families ? whether most these Privateers designed to join all Spaniards ? or whether the major their force, and by the assistance of part are not copper-coloured, as the Indians (who had promised to be mulattoes, Mustesões, or Indians ? their guides) to march overland to whether rich, and what their riches Panama ; and there is no other way consist in ? and what their chief If fortified, how of getting prisoners for that purpose manufactures ? but by absconding¹ between Chagres many great guns, and what number and Porto Bello, because there are of small arms ? whether it is possible much goods brought that way from to come undescried on them ? how Panama, especially when the Armada many look-outs or sentinels ? for such lies at Porto Bello. All the com the Spaniards always keep ; how the manders were aboard of Captain look-outs are placed ? whether possi Wright when we came into the fleet, ble to avoid the look-outs or take and were mighty inquisitive of the them ? If any river or creek comes prisoners to know the truth of what near it, or where the best landing ? they related concerning us. But as with innumerable other such ques soon as they knew we were come, tions, which their curiosity leads they immediately came aboard of them to demand. And if they have Captain Tristian, being all overjoyed had any former discourse of such to see us ; for Captain Coxon and places from other prisoners, they many others had left us in the South compare one with the other ; then Seas about twelve months since, and examine again, and inquire if he had never heard what became of us or any of them are capable to be since that time. They inquired of guides to conduct a party of men us what we did there? how we lived ? thither ; if not, where and how any how far we had been ? and what dis prisoner may be taken that may do coveries we made in those seas ? After it ; and from thence they afterwards we had answered these general ques lay their schemes to prosecute what tions, they began to be more particu ever design they take in hand. lar in examining us concerning our It was seven or eight days before passage through the country from the any resolution was taken, yet consul South Seas. We related the whole tations were held every day. The matter, giving them an account of French seemed very forward to go the fatigues of our march, and the in to any town that the English could conveniences we suffered by the rains, or would propose, because the Go and disheartened them quite from vernor of Petit Goave (from whom that design. Then they proposed the Privateers take commissions) had several other places where such a recommended a gentleman lately come party of men as were now got to from France to be General of the ex gether might make a voyage ; but the pedition, and sent word by Captain objections of some or other still hin Tucker, with whom this gentleman dered any proceeding. For the came, that they should if possible Privateers have an account of most make an attempt on some town be towns within twenty leagues of the fore he returned again. The English , sea on all the coast from Trinidad . when they were in company with the down to La Vera Cruz, and are able French, seemed to approve of what to give a near guess of the strength the French said, but never looked on and riches of them, for they make it that General to be fit for the service their business to examine all prisoners in hand. At length it was concluded that fall into their hands concern to go to a town called Coretaga, 2 ing the country, town, or city they 2 belong to whether born there, Cartago, near San Jose, the pre or how long they have known it ? sent capital of Costa Rica ; the “Car penter's River " afterwards mentioned Lying in ambush or concealment. would be the Matina.
109 CAPTURE OF A SPANISH "TARTANE. " 1681. ] which lies a great way in the country, company the first day, but at night but not such a tedious march as it it blew a hard gale at NE. , and some would be from hence to Panama. of our ships bore away. The next Our way to it lay up Carpenter's day others were forced to leave us, River, which is about sixty leagues and the second night we lost all our to the westward of Porto Bello. Our company. I was now belonging to greatest obstruction in this design Captain Archembo, for all the rest of was our want of boats, therefore it the fleet were over-manned. Captain was concluded to go with all our fleet Archembo wanting men, we that came to St Andreas, ¹ a small uninhabited out of the South Seas must either sail island lying near the Isle of Provi with him or remain among the In dence, tothe W. of it, in 13° 15′ N. Lat. , dians. Indeed, we found no cause to and from Porto Bello NNW. about dislike the Captain ; but his French seventy leagues, where we should be seamen were the saddest creatures but a little way from Carpenter's that ever I was among ; for though River. And besides, at this island we had bad weather that required we might build canoes, it being many hands aloft, yet the biggest plentifully stored with large cedars for part of them never stirred out of such a purpose ; and for this reason their hammocks but to eat or ease the Jamaica-men come hither fre themselves. We made a shift to find quently to build sloops, cedar being the Island the fourth day, where we very fit for building, and being to be met Captain Wright, who came thither had here at free cost, besides other the day before, and had taken a wood. Jamaica is well stored with Spanish tartane, 3 wherein were thirty cedars of its own, chiefly among the men, all well armed. She had four Rocky Mountains ; these also of St petereroes, and some long guns placed Andreas grow in stony ground, and in a swivel on the gunwale. They are the largest that ever I knew or fought an hour before they yielded. heard of, the bodies alone being ordi The news they related was, that they narily forty or fifty feet long, many came from Carthagena in company of sixty or seventy and upwards, and of eleven armadilloes (which are small a proportionable bigness. The Ber vessels of war) to seek for the fleet of mudas Isles arewell stored with them ; Privateers lying in the Sambaloes ; so is Virginia, which is generally a that they parted from the armadil sandy soil. I saw none in the East loes two days before ; that they were Indies, nor in the South Sea coast, ex ordered to search the Sambaloes for cept on the Isthmus as I came over it.2 us, and if they did not find us, then We reckon the periagoes and canoes they were ordered to go to Porto that are made of cedar to be the best of Bello, and lie there till they had any ; they are nothing but the tree it further intelligence of us ; and he self made hollow boat-wise, with a flat supposed these armadilloes to be bottom, and the canoegenerally sharp now there. We that came overland at both ends, the periago at one only, out of the South Seas, being weary with the other end flat. But what is of living among the French, desired commonlysaid of cedar, that the worm Captain Wright to fit up his prize the will not touch it, is a mistake ; for I tartane, and make a man-of-war of have seen it very much worm-eaten. All things being thus concluded on, 3A small coasting vessel used in we sailed from hence, directing our the Mediterranean, with one mast and course toward St Andreas. We kept a large lateen sail ; Spanish, " tar: tana ;" French, 66 tartane. "" 1 St Andrew's Island. Orpedereroes 99 (Spanish, " pedrero,' "6 2 The Author afterwards (Chapter from piedra,' a stone) ; a sort of IX. , page 193) tells us that he found swivel-gun which, before the inven large cedars at the Three Marias tion of iron balls, were loaded with stone shot. Islands, off the coast of Mexico.
110
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. III. her for us, which he at first seemed they have but little provision ; and to decline, because he was settled when they see a sail they hide them among the French on Hispaniola, and selves, otherwise ships that come here was very well beloved both by the would take them, and make slaves of Governor of Petit Goave, and all the them ; and I have seen some of them gentry ; and they would resent it ill that have been slaves. They are peo that Captain Wright, who had no ple of a mean stature, yet strong occasion of men, should be so unkind limbs ; they are of a dark copper to Captain Archembo as to seduce his colour, black hair, full round faces, men from him ; he being so meanly small black eyes, their eye-brows manned that he could hardly sail his hanging over their eyes, low fore ship with his Frenchmen. We told heads, short thick noses, not high him we would no longer remain with but flattish ; full lips, and short chins. Captain Archembo, but would go They have a fashion to cut holes in ashore there and build canoes to trans the lips of the boys when they are port ourselves down to the Mosquitoes young, close to their chin, which they if he would not entertain us ; for Priva keep open with little pegs till they are teers are not obliged to any ship, but fourteen or fifteen years old : thenthey free to go ashore where they please, wear beards in them made of turtle or or to go into any other ship that will tortoise shell. A little notch at the entertain them, only paying for their upper end they put in through the provision. When Captain Wright lip, where it remains between the saw our resolution, he agreed with us teeth and the lip ; the under part on condition we should be under his hangs down over their chin. This command as one ship's company, to they commonly wear all day, and which we unanimously consented. when they sleep they take it out. We stayed here about ten days to They have likewise holes bored in see if any more of our fleet would their ears, both men and women, come to us ; but there came no more when young ; and by continual of us to the island but three, Captain stretching them with great pegs, Wright, Captain Archembo, and Cap they grow to be as big as a milled tain Tucker. Therefore we conclud five-shilling piece : herein they wear ed the rest were bore away either for pieces of wood cut very round and Boca del Toro or Blewfields River on smooth, so that their ear seems to be the main ; and we designed to seek all wood, with a little skin about it. them. We had fine weather while Another ornament the women use is we lay here, only some tornadoes or about their legs, which they are very thunder-showers. But in this Isle curious in ; for from the infancy of of St Andreas there being neither the girls their mothers make fast a fish, fowl, nor deer, and it being piece of cotton cloth about the small therefore but an ordinary place for us of their leg, from the ankle to the who had but little provision, we sailed calf, very hard, which makes them from hence again in quest of our scat have a very full calf : this the women teredfleet, directingour courseforsome wear to their dying day. Both men islands lying near the main, called by and women go naked, only a clout the Privateers the Corn Islands ; being about their waists ; yet they have inhopestoget cornthere. Theseislands but little feet though they go bare I take to be the same which are gene foot. Finding no provision here, we rally called in the maps the Pearl Is sailed towards Blewfields River, where lands, lying about the lat. of 12° 10' N. we careened our tartane ; and there Here we arrived the next day, and Captain Archembo and Captain Tuc went ashore on one of them, but ker left us, and went towards Boca del found none of the inhabitants, for Toro. This Blewfields River ¹ comes there are but a few poor naked Indians 1 Marked on some modern maps as that live here, who have been so often plundered by the Privateers, that the River Escondido or Segovia ; it
111 STRIKING THE MANATEE OR SEA- COW. 1681. ] out between the Rivers of Nicaragua | From the shoulders towards the tail and Veragua. It had this name from it retains its bigness for about two feet, Captain Blewfield, a famous Privateer then grows smaller and smaller to the living on Providence Island long be- very tail, which is flat, and about fore Jamaica was taken : which Island fourteen inches broad and twenty of Providence was settled by the Eng- inches long, and in the middle lish and belonged to the Earls of War- four or five inches thick, but about wick. In this river we found a canoe the edges not above two inches coming down the stream ; and though thick. From the head to the tail we went with our canoes to seek for it is round and smooth, without any inhabitants, yet we found none, but fin but those two before-mentioned. saw in two or three places signs that I have heard that some have weighed Indians had made on the side of the above 1200 lbs. , but I never saw any river. The canoe which we found was so large. The manatee delights to but meanly made for want of tools ; live in brackish water ; and they are therefore we concluded these Indians commonly in creeks and rivers near have no commerce with the Spaniards the sea. They live on grass seven or nor with other Indians that have. eight inches long, and of a narrow While we lay here, our Mosquito blade, which grows in the sea in many men went in their canoe and struck places, especially among islands near us some manatee or sea- cow.1 Be the main ; this grass grows likewise in sides this Blewfields River I have creeks or in great rivers near the sides seen the manatee in the Bay of Cam of them, in such places where there peachy, on the coasts of Boca del is but little tide or current. They Drago and Boca del Toro, in the never come ashore, nor into shallower River of Darien, and among the south waterthan where they can swim . Their keys or little islands of Cuba. I have flesh is white, both the fat and the heard of their being found on the lean, and extraordinary sweet whole north of Jamaica, a few ; and in the some meat. The tail of a young cow rivers of Surinam in great multitudes, is most esteemed ; but if old both which is a very low land. I have head and tail are very tough. A calf seen them also at Mindanao, one of that sucks is the most delicate meat ; the Philippine Islands, and on the Privateers commonly roast them, as coast of New Holland. This creature they do also great pieces cut out of is about the bigness of a horse, and the bellies of the old ones. The skin ten or twelve feet long. The mouth of the manatee is ofgreat use to Priva of it is much like the mouth of a cow, teers ; for they cutthemoutinto straps, having great thick lips. The eyes which they make fast on the sides of are no bigger than a small pea. The their canoes, through which they put ears are only two small holes on each their oars in rowing, instead of tholes 2 side of the head. The neck is short or pegs. The skin of the bull or of and thick, bigger than the head. the back of the cow is too thick for The biggest part of this creature is at this use ; but of it they make horse the shoulders, where it has two large whips, cutting them two or three feet fins, one on each side of its belly. long ; at the handle they leave the full Under each of these fins the female substance of the skin, and from thence has a small dug to suckle her young. cut it away tapering, but very even and square [on] all the four sides. runs south- eastward tothe seathrough While the thongs are green they twist the Mosquito country, and at its them and hang them to dry ; which mouth are Blewfields town and lagoon. in a week's time become as hard as 1 The description generally applies wood. The Mosquito-men have al to some variety of the Phoca, or seal ways a small canoe for their use, to -known in different seas and to dif 2 Pins in the gunwale to support the ferent navigators as the sea-dog, the sea-calf, the sea-cow, and the sea-lion. oar in rowing ; also called "thowls."
112 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. IIJ. strike fish, tortoise, or manatee : nimble to turn the head of the canoe which they keep usually to them that way that his consort points, who selves, and very neat and clean. They being in the head of his canoe, and use no oars, but paddles, the broad holding the line, both sees and feels part of which does not go tapering which way the manatee is swimming. towards the staff, pole, or handle of Thus the canoe is towed with a vio it as in the oar ; nor do they use it in lent motion till the manatee's strength the same manner, by laying it on the decays. Then they gather in the side of the vessel, but hold it perpen line, which they are often forced to dicularly, gripping the staff hard with let all go to the very end. At length, both hands, and putting back the when the creature's strength is spent, water by main strength and very they haul it up to the canoe's side, quick strokes. One of the Mosquitoes and knock it on the head, and tow it (for there go but two in a canoe) sits to the nearest shore, where they make in the stern, the other kneels down it fast, and seek for another ; which in the head ; and both paddle till having taken, they go ashore with it they come to the place where they to put it into their canoe. For it is so expect theirgame. Then they lie still, heavy that they cannot lift it in ; but or paddle very softly, looking well they haul it up in shoal water as near about them ; and he that is in the the shore as they can, and then over head of the canoe lays down his pad set the canoe, laying one side close to dle and stands up with his striking the manatee. Then they roll it in, staff in his hand. This staff is about which brings the canoe upright again ; eight feet long, almost as big as a and when they have heaved out the man's arm at the great end, in water they fasten a line to the other which there is a hole to place his manatee that lies afloat, and tow it harpoon in. At the other end of his after them.¹ When we had cleaned our tartane staff there is a piece of light wood called bob-wood, with a hole in we sailed from hence, bound for Boca it through which the small end del Toro, which is an opening between of the staff comes ; and on this two islands about 10° 10' N. , between piece of bob-wood there is a line of the Rivers of Veragua and Chagres. ten or twelve fathoms wound neatly Here we met with Captain Yanky, about, and the end of the line made who told us that there had been a fast to it. The other end of the line fleet of Spanish armadilloes to seek is made fast to the harpoon, which is us that Captain Tristian having at the great end of the staff ; and the fallen to leeward, was coming to Mosquito-man keeps about a fathom Boca del Toro, and fell in amongst of it loose in his hand. When he them, supposing them to be our fleet : strikes, the harpoon presently comes that they fired and chased him, but out of the staff, and as the manatee he rowed and towed, and they sup swims away the line runs off from the posed he got away ; that Captain bob ; and although at first both staff Payne was likewise chased by them, and bob may be carried under water, yet as the line runs off it will rise 1 The manner of striking the tor again. Then the Mosquito-men pad toise is also given at length, but be dle with all their might to get hold of ing much the same as the method the bob again, and spend usually a employed in striking the sea- cow, it quarter of an hour before they get it. has been omitted. Instead of a har When the manatee begins to be tired, poon, a four-square sharp iron peg it lies still ; and then the Mosquito on the end of a striking staff is used, men paddle to the bob and take it with a line attached. When the tor up, and begin to haul in the line. toise is struck it flies off, but the iron When the manatee feels them he with the end of the line attached be swims away again with the canoe after ing buried beneath the shell, there is him ; then he that steers must be no possibility of its escape.
SEEKING PROVISIONS. 1681.1 113 and Captain Williams, and that they | Captain Wright and Captain Yanky had not seen them since ; that they left us in the tartane to fix the lay within the islands ; that the canoes, while they went on the coast Spaniards never came in to him ; of Carthagena to seek for provision. and that Captain Coxon was in at the We cruised in among the islands, and . careening place. This Boca del Toro kept our Mosquito-men or strikers is a place that the Privateers use to out, who brought aboard some half resort to as much as any place in all grown tortoise ; and some of us went the coast, because here is plenty of ashore every day to hunt for what we green tortoise and a good careening could find in the woods. Sometimes place. The Indians here have r we got peccary, warree, or deer ; at commerce with the Spaniards, but other times we lighted on a drove of are very barbarous, and will not be large fat monkeys or quams, corro dealt with. They have destroyed soes 4 (each à large sort of fowl), pig many Privateers, as they did not eons, parrots, or turtle-doves. We long after this some of Captain Payne's lived very well on what we got, not men ; who having built a tent ashore staying long in one place : but some to put his goods in while he careened times we would go on the islands, his ship, and some men lying there where there grow great groves of sap with their arms, in the night the In- podillas,5 which is a sort of fruit much dians crept softly into the tent and like a pear, but more juicy ; and un cut off the heads of three or four men, der those trees we found plenty of and made their escape ; nor was this soldiers, a little kind of animals that the first time they had served the Pri- live in shells, and have two great vateers so. There grow on this coast claws like a crab, and are good food. vinelloes in great quantity, with One time our men found a great many which chocolate is perfumed ; these large ones, and, being sharp-set had I shall describe elsewhere.¹ them dressed, but most of them were Our fleet being thus scattered, there very sick afterwards, being poisoned were now no hopes of getting toge by them : for on this island were ther again ; therefore every one did many manchineel trees," whose fruit what they thought most conducing to obtain their ends. Captain Wright, 4 For Quam or Guan see Note 4, with whom I now was, was resolved page 105. The Corroso, or Curassow, to cruise on the coast of Carthagena ; is described elsewhere by Dampier as and it being now almost the westerly 66 a larger fowl than the quam : the wind season, we sailed from hence, cock is black, the hen is of a dark and Captain Yanky with us ; and we brown. The cock has a crown of consorted, because Captain Yanky black feathers on his head, and ap had no commission, and was afraid pears very stately. These live also the French would take away his bark. on berries, and are very good to eat; We passed by Scuda, 2 a small island but their bones are said to be poison where it is said Sir Francis Drake's ous ; therefore we do either burn or bowels were buried, and came to a small burythem, orthrow them intothewater river to westward of Chagres, where we for fear our dogs should eat them. " took two new canoes, and carried them 5 Sappodilla is the name applied to with us into the Sambaloes. We had plants of the genus Achras, natives the wind at W. with much rain ; which of the West Indies and some parts of brought us to Point Samballas.3 Here South America ; the plum, or fruit, according to Lindley, is esteemed as an article of the dessert ; the bark is 1 See Chapter VIII. 2 Escudo de Veragua, offthe Lagoon employed in medicine as an astring of Chiriqui. In Maynarde's narrative, ent. 6 Soldier-crab, or hermit-crab. however (ante, page 81 ), it is stated 7 Spanish, 66 Manzanilla ;" a West that Drake was buried at sea. 3 San Blas. Indian tree, used for furniture, and H
114 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. III. is like a small crab, ¹ and smells very passed by the River of Darien ; which well, but they are not wholesome ; is very broad at the mouth, but not and we commonly take care of med above six feet [of] water on a spring dling with any animals that eat them. tide ; for the tide rises but little here. And this we take for a general rule : Captain Coxon, about six months be when we find any fruits that we have fore we came out of the South Seas, not seen before, if we see them peck went up this river with a party of ed by birds we may freely eat ; but if men : every man carried a small we see no such sign we may let them strong bag to put his gold in, expect alone ; for of this fruit no birds will ing great riches there, though they taste. Many of these islands have got little or none. They rowed up these manchineel trees growing on about 100 leagues before they came them. Thus cruising in among these to any settlement, and then found islands at length we came again to some Spaniards who lived there to La Sound's Key ; and the day before, truck 2 with the Indians for gold ; having met with a Jamaica sloop that there being gold scales in every was come over on the coast to trade, house. The Spaniards admired 3 how Ishe went with us. It was in the they came so far from the mouth of evening when we came to an anchor, the river ; because there are a sort of and the next morning we fired two Indians living between that place and guns for the Indians that lived on the the sea who are very dreadful to the main to come aboard ; for by this Spaniards, and will not have any com time we concluded we should hear merce with them, nor with any white from our five men that we left in the people. Toreturn therefore to the prosecution heart ofthe country amongthe Indians, this being about the latter end of of our voyage. Meeting with nothing August, and it was the beginning of of note, we passed by Carthagena, May when we parted from them. which is a city so well known that I According to our expectation the In shall say nothing of it. We sailed dians came aboard and brought our by in sight of it, for it lies open to friends with them. Mr Wafer wore the sea ; and had a fair view of Madre a clout about him, and was painted de Popa, or Nuestra Señora de Popa, like an Indian ; and he was some a monastery of the Virgin Mary, time aboard before I knew him. One standing on the top of a very steep of them, named Richard Cobson, died hill just behind Carthagena. It is a within three or four days after, and place of incredible wealth, by reason was buried on La Sound's Key. After of the offerings made there continu this we went to other keys to the ally ; and for this reason often in eastward of these, to meet Captain danger of being visited by the Priva Wright and Captain Yanky, who met teers, did not the neighbourhood of with a fleet of periagoes laden with Carthagena keep them in awe. It is, Indian corn, hog, and fowls, going in short, the very Loretto of the West to Carthagena ; being convoyed by a Indies it has innumerable miracles small armadillo of two guns and six related of it. Any misfortune that petereroes. Her they chased ashore, befalls the Privateers is attributed to and most of the periagoes ; but they this Lady's doing ; and the Spaniards got two of them off and brought report that she was abroad that night them away. Here Captain Wright's the Oxford man-of-war was blown up and Captain Yanky'sbarks were clean at the Isle of Vacca near Hispaniola, ed ; and we stocked ourselves with and that she came home all wet ; as, corn and then went towards the coast belike, she often returns with her ofCarthagena. In our way thither we clothes dirty and torn with passing
well known for its poisonous white 2 Barter, traffic by exchange ; Span ish, " trocar," French, " troquer." juice ; the Hippomane mancinella. 3 Wondered. 1 Apple.
ANOTHER PRIZE TAKEN. 115 1681. ] through woods and bad ways when made it very strong. We entered she has been out upon any expedi the fort and brought two small guns tion ; deserving doubtless a new suit aboard. From thence we went to the for such eminent pieces of service. Rancherias, one or two small Indian From hence we passed on to the Rio villages where the Spaniards keep Grande, where we took up fresh two barks to fish for pearl. water at sea, a league off the mouth When we had spent some time of that river. From thence we sailed here, we returned again towards the eastward, passing by Santa Marta, coast of Carthagena ; and being be a large town and good harbour belong tween Rio Grande and that place, we ing to the Spaniards : yet hath it met with westerly winds, which kept within these few years been twice us still to the eastward of Carthagena taken by the Privateers. It stands three or four days ; then in the morn close upon the sea, and the hill within ing we descried a sail off at sea, and land is a very large one, towering up we chased her at noon. Captain a great height from a vast body of Wright, who sailed best, came up land. I am of opinion thatitis higher with her and engaged her ; and in thanthe Peak of Teneriffe ; others also half an hour after, Captain Yanky, that have seen both, think the same ; who sailed better than the tartane though its bigness makes its height (the vessel that I was in), came up less sensible. I have seen it in pass with her likewise and laid her aboard, ing by, thirty leagues off, at sea ; then Captain Wright also ; and they others, as they told me, above sixty. took her before we came up. They Its head is generally hid in the lost two or three men, and had seven clouds ; but in clear weather, when or eight wounded. The prize was a the top appears, it looks white, sup ship of 12 guns and forty men, who posed to be covered with snow. Santa had all good small arms ; she was Marta lies in Lat. 12°. Being ad laden with sugar and tobacco, and vanced five or six leagues to the east had eight or ten tons of marmalade on ward of Santa Marta, we left our board : she came from Santiago de ships at anchor, and returned back Cuba, and was bound to Carthagena. in our canoes to the Rio Grande, en We went back with her to Rio tering it by a mouth of it that disem Grande to fix our rigging, which was bogues itself near Santa Marta : pur shattered in the fight, and to consider to do with her ; for these were posing to attempt some towns that what lie a pretty way up that river. But commodities of little use to us, and this design meeting with discourage not worth going into a port with. ments, we returned to our ships and At the Rio Grande, Captain Wright set sail to Rio la Hacha. This hath demanded the prize as his due by been a strong Spanish town, and is virtue of his commission ; Captain well built ; but being often taken by Yanky said it was his due by the law the Privateers, the Spaniards deserted of Privateers. Indeed Captain Wright it some time before our arrival. It had the most right to her, having by lies to the westward of a river ; and his commission protected Captain right against the town is a good road Yanky from the French, who would for ships, the bottom clean and sandy. have turned him out because he had The Jamaica sloops used often to no commission ; and he likewise be come over to trade here and I am gan to engage her first. But the informed that the Spaniards have company were all afraid that Captain again settled themselves in it and Wright would presently carry her into a port ; therefore most of Captain Wright's men stuck to Captain Yanky, 1 Now Rio Magdalena. 2 The Sierra de Santa Marta, the and Captain Wright losing 3 his prize, highest point of which, about thirty burned his own bark, and had Captain miles from the town, is 19,000 feet in levation. 3 Yielding up.
116 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. III. Yanky's, it being bigger than his Negroes at once, besides great quanti own ; the tartane was sold to a ties of European commodities ; but of Jamaica trader, and Captain Yanky late that trade is fallen intothe hands commanded the prize ship. We went of the English at Jamaica : yet still again from hence to Rio la Hacha, the Dutch have a vast trade over all and set the prisoners ashore and it the West Indies, sending from Holland being now the beginning of Novem ships of good force laden with Euro ber, we concluded to go to Curaçoa to pean goods, whereby they make very sell our sugar, if favoured by westerly profitable returns. The Dutch have winds, which were now come in. We two other islands there, but of little sailed from thence, having fair moment in comparison of Curaçoa ; weather and winds to our mind, which the one lies seven or eight leagues brought us to Curaçoa, a Dutch to the westward of Curaçoa, called island. Captain Wright went ashore Oruba ; the other nine or ten leagues to the Governor, and offered him the to the eastward of it, called Buen sale of the sugar : but the Governor Ayre. From these islands the Dutch told him he had a great trade with fetch in sloops, provision for Curaçoa, the Spaniards, therefore he could not to maintain their garrison and Negroes. admit us in there ; but if we would I was never at Oruba, therefore cannot go to St Thomas, which is an island say anything of it as to my own and free port belonging to the Danes, knowledge ; but by report it is much and a sanctuary for Privateers, he like Buen Ayre, which I shall de would send a sloop with such goods scribe, only not so big. Between as we wanted, and money to buy the Curaçoa and Buen Ayre is a small is sugar, which he would take at a cer land called Little Curaçoa ; it is not above a league from Great Curaçoa. tain rate ; but it was not agreed to. Curaçoa is the only island of im The King of France has long had an portance that the Dutch have in the eye on Curaçoa, and made some at West Indies. It is about five leagues tempts to take it, but never yet suc in length, and may be nine or ten ceeded. I have heard that about in circumference : the northernmost twenty- three or twenty - four years point is laid down in N. Lat. 12° 40′, since the Governor had sold it to the and it is about seven or eight leagues French, but died a small time before from the main, near Cape San Roman. the fleet came to demand it ; and by On the south side of the east end is a his death that design failed . After good harbour called Santa Barbara ; wards, in the year 1678, the Count but the chief harbour is about three D'Estrées, who a year before had leagues from the SE. end, on the south taken the Isle of Tobago from the side of it, where the Dutch have a very Dutch, was sent hither also with a good town and a very strong fort. At squadron of stout ships, very well the east end are two hills, one of them manned, and fitted with bombs and much higher than the other, and carcasses, intending to take it by This fleet first came to steepest towards the north side. The storm. rest of the island is in different level ; Martinico ; where, while they stayed, where of late some rich men have orders were sent to Petit Goave for made_sugar-works ; which formerly all Privateers to repair thither and was all pasture for cattle. There are assist the Count in his design. There also some small plantations of potatoes were but two Privateers' ships that and yams, and they have still a great went thither to him, which were many cattle on the island : but it is 1 Carcasses (Italian, 86 carcassa, "7 not so much esteemed for its produce, as for its situation for the trade with Spanish, " carcax 99 or 16 carcaza ") the Spaniards. Formerly the harbour are hollow cases made of ribs of iron, was never without ships from Cartha filled with inflammable matter, and gena and Porto Bello, that did use to thrown into besieged places with buy of the Dutch here, 1000 or 1500 incendiary intent.
1681. ] ISLANDS OF BUEN AYRE AND AVES. 117 manned partly with French, partly place. On the south side near the with Englishmen. These set out east end is a good salt-pond, where with the Count ; but in their way to Dutch sloops come for salt. From Curaçoa, the whole fleet was lost on a BuenAyre we went to the Isle of Aves, reef or ridge of rocks that runs off or birds ; so called from its great from the Isle of Aves ; not above two plenty of birds, as man-of- war and ships escaping, one of which was one boobies, but especially boobies. The of the Privateers and so that design booby is a water-fowl, somewhat less perished. than a hen, of a light greyish colour. Wherefore not driving a bargain I observed the boobies of this island for our sugar with the Governor of to be whiter than others. This bird Curaçoa, we went from thence to has a strong bill, longer and bigger Buen Ayre, another Dutch island, than a crow's, and broader at the where we met a Dutch sloop come end ; its feet are flat like a duck's from Europe laden with Irish beef feet. The man-of-war (as it is called which we bought in exchange for by the English) is about the bigness some of our sugar. Buen Ayre is the of a kite, and in shape like it, but easternmost of the Dutch islands, and black ; and the neck is red. It lives the largest of the three, though not on fish, yet never lights on the water, the most considerable. The middle but soars aloft like a kite, and when of the island is laid down in Lat. 12° it sees its prey, it flies down head 16' [ N. ]. It is about twenty leagues foremost to the water's edge, very from the main, and nine or ten from swiftly takes its prey out of the sea Curaçoa, and is accounted sixteen or with its bill, and immediately mounts seventeen leagues round. The road again as swiftly, never touching the is on the SW. side, near the middle water with its body. His wings are of the island, where there is a pretty very long ; his feet are like other deep bay runs in. The houses are land-fowl ; and he builds on trees, about half-a-mile within land, right where he finds any ; but where they in the road. There is a Governor are wanting, on the ground. This lives here, a deputy to the Governor Island of Aves lies about eight or nine ofCuraçoa, and seven or eight soldiers, leagues to the eastward of the island with five or six families of Indians. Buen Ayre, about fourteen or fifteen There is no fort ; and the soldiers in leagues from the main, and about the peaceable times have little to do but Lat. of 11° 45′ north. It is but to eat and sleep, for they never watch small, not above four miles in length, but in time of war. The Indians are and towards the east end not half-a husbandmen, and plant maize and mile broad. On the north side it is Guinea corn, and some yams and low land, commonly overflown with potatoes but their chief business is the tide ; but on the south side there about cattle ; for this island is plenti is a great rocky bank of coral thrown fully stocked with goats ; and they up by the sea. The west end is, for send great quantities every year in near a mile's space, plain even sa There are some vannah land, without any trees. salt to Curaçoa. horses, and bulls and cows ; but I There are two or three wells dug by never saw any sheep, though I have Privateers, who often frequent this been all over the island. The south island, because there is a good har side is plain low land, and there are bour about the middle of it on the several sorts of trees, but none very north side, where they may conveni large. There is a small spring of ently careen. The reef or bank of water by the houses, which serves rocks on which the French fleet was the inhabitants, though it is brackish. lost, runs along from the east end to At the west end of the island there is the northward about three miles, then a good spring of fresh water, and three trends away to the westward, making or four Indian families live there ; as it were a half-moon. This reef but no water nor houses at any other breaks off all the sea, and there is
118 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. III. good riding in even sandy ground to ing, who, being in drink, did not the westward of it. There are two or mind the danger, but were never three small low sandy keys or islands heard of afterwards. In a short time within this reef, about three miles after this great shipwreck, Captain from the main island. The Count Payne, commander of a Privateer of D'Estrées lost his fleet here in this 6 guns, had a pleasant accident befell manner Coming from the eastward, him at this island. He came hither he fell in on the back of the reef, to careen, intending to fit himself and fired guns to give warning to the very well ; for here lay driven on the rest of his fleet. But they, suppos- island, masts, yards, timbers, and ing their Admiral was engaged with many things that he wanted, there enemies, hoised up their topsails, and fore he hauled into the harbour, close crowded all the sail they could make, to the island, and unrigged his ship. and ran full sail ashore after him ; Before he had come, a Dutch ship of all within half-a-mile of each other. 20 guns was sent from Curaçoa to For his light being in the maintop take up the guns that were lost on was an unhappy beacon for them to the reef. But seeing a ship in the follow ; and there escaped but one harbour, and knowing her to be a King's ship, and one Privateer. The French Privateer, they thought to ships continued whole all day, and take her first, and came within a the men had time enough, most of mile of her, and began to fire at her, them, to get ashore ; yet many intending to warp in the next day ; perished in the wreck and many for it is very narrow going in. Cap of those that got safe on the tain Payne got ashore some of his island, for want of being accustom- guns, and did what he could to refit ed to such hardships, died like rotten them, though he did in a manner sheep. But the Privateers who had conclude he must be taken. But, been used to such accidents, lived while his men were thus busied, he merrily ; from whom I had this re- spied a Dutch sloop turning to get lation and they told me that if into the road, and saw her at the they had gone to Jamaica with £30 evening anchor at the west end of the a man in their pockets they could not island. This gave him some hope of have enjoyed themselves more. For making his escape, which he did, by they kept in a gang by themselves, sending two canoes in the night and watched when the ships broke to aboard the sloop, who took her, and get the goods that came from them ; got considerable purchase in her, and and though much was staved against he went away in her, making a good re the rocks, yet abundance of wine and prisal, and leaving his own empty ship brandy floated over the reef, where to the Dutch man-of-war. There is an these Privateers waited to take it up. other island to the eastward of the They lived here about three weeks, Isle of Aves about four leagues, called waiting an opportunity to transport by Privateers the Little Isle of Aves, themselves back again to Hispaniola ; which is overgrown with mangrove in all which time they were never trees. I have seen it, but was never without two or three hogsheads of on it. There are no inhabitants that wine and brandy in their tents, and I could learn on either of these islands barrels of beef and pork, which they but boobies, and a few other birds. could live on without bread well While we were at the Isle of Aves we enough, though the new comers out careened Captain Wright's bark, and of France could not. There were scrubbed the sugar prize, and got two about forty Frenchmen on board one guns out of the wrecks, continuing of the ships where there was good here till the beginning of February store of liquor, till the after part of 1681-2. We went from hence to the her broke away and floated over the Isles Roques to careen the sugar reef, and was carried away to sea, prize, which the Isle of Aves was not with all the men drinking and sing a place so convenient for. Accord.
1682. ] 119 ROQUES AND TORTUGA ISLANDS DESCRIBED . ingly we hauled close to one of the long grass, where there are multi small islands, and got our guns tudes of small grey fowls, no bigger ashore the first thing we did, and than a blackbird ; yet [they] lay eggs built a breastwork on the point, and bigger than a magpie's : and they are planted all our guns there, to hin therefore by Privateers called egg der an enemy from coming to us while birds. The east end of the island is we lay on the careen ; then we made overgrown with black mangrove a house, and covered it with our trees.2 The other islands are low, sails, to put our goods and provisions and have red mangroves, and other Here also ships in. While we lay here, a French trees on them. man-of-war, of 36 guns, came through may ride ; but no such place for the keys or little islands, to whom we careening as where we lay, because at sold about ten tons of sugar. I was that place ships may haul close to the aboard twice or thrice, and very shore ; and, if they have but four kindly welcomed both by the captain guns on the point, may secure the and his lieutenant, who was a Cava channel, and hinder any enemy from lier of Malta ; and they both offered coming near them. After we had filled what water we me great encouragement in France, if I would go with them ; but I ever could from hence, we set out again designed to continue with those of in April 1682, and came to Salt Tor my own nation. The Islands Roques tuga ; so called to distinguish it from are a parcel of small uninhabited the shoals of Dry Tortugas, near islands, lying about the Lat. of 11° Cape Florida, and from the Isle of 40' , about fifteen or sixteen leagues Tortugas by Hispaniola, which was from the main, and about twenty called formerly French Tortugas ; leagues NW. by W. from Tortuga, though not having heard any men and six or seven leagues W. of Or tion of that name a great while, I am chillo, another island, lying about the apt to think it is swallowed up in same distance from the main. [Los ] that of Petit Goave, the chief garri Roques stretch themselves E. and son the French have in those parts. W. about five leagues, and their This island we arrived at is pretty breadth [is] about three leagues . The large, uninhabited, and abounds with northernmost of these islands is the salt. It is in Lat. 11° N. , and lies most remarkable, by reason of a high W. and a little N. from Margarita, white rocky hill at the west end of it, an island inhabited by the Spaniards, which may be seen a great way ; and strong and wealthy ; it is distant on it there are abundance of tropic from it about fourteen leagues, and birds, men-of-war, boobies, and nod seventeen or eighteen from Cape dies, which breed there. The booby Blanco on the main.3 At this isle we and man-of- war I have described already. The middle of this island 2 The mangrove trees according to is low plain land, overgrown with Dampier, are of three sorts, black, red, and white. Of these, the black 1 The noddy is described as a small and red form the most serviceable black bird, about the size of an Eng timber. The young saplings were lish blackbird, and esteemed good for used by the Privateers for making food by voyagers there. In shape, that part of the oar within the boat, they are round and plump like a par called the " loom" or handle. 3 Some remarks not generally in tridge, and all white, save two or three feathers in each wing, which teresting, are here made on a large salt pond at the east end of the are of a light grey. On the Roques Islands here de Island of Tortuga, and often visited scribed , the water was found to taste by ships to lade salt. This island had 66 ' copperish, " and after two or three its name from the turtle or tortoise, days use of it, no other water seemed which came upon the sandy bays to lay their eggs. to possess any taste.
120 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. III. thought to have sold our sugar among turtle or tortoise come up in great the English ships that come hither abundance, going ashore in the night. for salt ; but failing there we designed Those that frequent this island are for Trinidad, an island near the main called green turtle ; and they are the inhabited by the Spaniards, tolerably best of that sort, both for largeness strong and wealthy but the current and sweetness, of any in all the West and easterly winds hindering us, we Indies. We stayed at the Isle of Blanco not passed through between Margarita and the main, and went to Blanco, ¹ above ten days, and then went back a pretty large island almost north of to Salt Tortuga again, where Captain Margarita, about thirty leagues from Yanky parted with us. And from the main, and in 11° 50' N. Lat. thence, after about four days, all It is a flat, even, low, uninhabited which time our men were drunk and island, dry and healthy, most savannah quarrelling, we in Captain Wright's of long grass, and has some trees of ship went to the coast of Caracas on Lignum-vita growing in spots, with the mainland.3 The cacao tree has shrubby bushes of other wood about a body about a foot and a half thick them. It is plentifully stored with ( the largest sort) and seven or eight guanos, which are an animal like a feet high to the branches, which lizard, but much bigger. The body are large, and spreading like an oak, is as big as the small of a man's leg, with a pretty thick, smooth, dark and from the hind quarter the tail green leaf, shaped like that of a plum grows tapering to the end, which is tree, but larger. The nuts are en very small. If a man takes hold of closed in cods as big as both a man's the tail, except very near the hind fists put together, at the broad end of quarter, it will part and break off in which there is a small, tough, limber5 one of the joints, and the guano will tree, by which they hang pendulous get away. They lay eggs, as most of from the body of the tree in all parts those amphibious creatures do, and of it from top to bottom, scattered at are very good to eat. Their flesh is irregular distances, and from the much esteemed by Privateers, who greater branches a little way up, espe commonly dress them for their sick cially at the joints of them, or part men ; for they make very good broth. ings, where they hang thickest, but They are of divers colours, as almost never on the smaller boughs. There black, dark brown, light brown, dark may be ordinarily about twenty or green, light green, yellow, and thirty ofthese cods upon awell-bearing speckled ; they all live as well in the tree, and they have two crops of them water as on land, and some of them in a year, one in December, but the are constantly in the water, and best in June. The cod itself, or shell, among rocks : these are commonly is almost half-an-inch thick; neither black. Others that live in swampy spongy nor woody, but of a substance wet ground are commonly on bushes between both, brittle, yet harder than and trees : these are green. But such the rind of a lemon, like which, its as live on dry ground, as here at Blanco, are commonly yellow ; yet 3 The low-lying lands on the coast these also will live in the water, and of Caracas are here characterised as are sometimes on trees. There are extremely fertile, well watered, and sandy bays round the island, where inhabited by Spaniards and their Negroes, and that the main product ¹ Or Blanquilla. of these valleys is the cacao nut, of 2 Guana, or iguana, is the designa which the chocolate is made, and of tion of several species of lizards, the which such a painstaking description best known being the Iguana tuber follows. 4 Not to be confused with the culatum, found in many parts of America and the West Indies, and cocoa-nut tree. 5 Supple , flexible. valued for its flesh.
CARACAS AND ITS CACAO TREES. 121 1682. ] surface is grained or knobbed, but open to the north winds, unless a more coarse and unequal. The cods little sheltered here and there by some at first are of a dark green, but the groves of plantain trees which are side of them next the sun of a muddy purposely set near the shores of the red. As they grow ripe the green several bays, yet, by all that I could turns to a fine bright yellow and the either observe or learn, the cacaos in muddy to a more lively beautiful red, this country are never blighted, as I very pleasant to the eye. They neither have often known them to be in other ripen nor are gathered [all ] at once ; places. Cacao nuts are used as money but for three weeks or a month, when in the Bay of Campeachy. The chief town of this country is the season is, the overseers of the plantations go every day about to see called Caracas, a good way within which are turned yellow, cutting at land ; it is a large wealthy place, where once, it may be, not above one from live most of the owners of these cacao a tree. The cods thus gathered they walks that are in the valleys by the lay in several heaps to sweat, and shore, the plantations being managed then, bursting the shell with their by overseers and Negroes. It is in a hands, they pull out the nuts, which large savannah country that abounds are the only substance they contain, with cattle ; and a Spaniard of my having no stalk or pith among them; acquaintance, a very sensible man and (excepting that these nuts lie in who hath been there, tells me that regular rows) are placed like the it is very populous, and he judges it to grains of maize, but sticking to be three times as big as Coruña in gether, and so closely stowed, that Galicia. The way to it is very steep after they have been once separated, and craggy, over that ridge of hills it would be hard to place them again which I said closes up the valleys and in so narrow a compass. There are partition hills of the cacao coast. In generally near 100 nuts in a cod, in this coast itself the chief place is La proportion to the greatness of which, | Guayra, a good town close by the for it varies, the nuts are bigger or sea; and though it has but a bad less. When taken out they dry them harbour, yet it is much frequented in the sun upon mats spread on the by the Spanish shipping, for the ground, after which they need no Dutch and English anchor in the more care, having a thin hard skin of sandy bays that lie here and there in their own, and much oil, which pre the mouth of several valleys, and serves them. Salt water will not where there is very good riding. The hurt them, for we had our bags rotten town is open, but has a strong fort, lying in the bottom of our ships, and yet both were taken some years since yet the nuts never the worse. They by Captain Wright and his Priva raise the young trees [from] nuts set teers. It is seated about four or five with the great end downward in fine leagues to the westward of Cape black mould, and in the same places Blanco, which is the easternmost boun where they are to bear, which they dary of this coast of Caracas. Farther do in four or five years ' time without eastward, about twenty leagues, is a the trouble of transplanting. There great lake or branch of the sea, called are ordinarily of these trees from 500 La Laguna de Venezuela, about which to 2000 and upwards in a plantation, are many rich towns ; but the mouth or cacao walk as they call them ; and of the lake is [so] shallow that no they shelter the young trees from the ships can enter. Near this mouth is weather with plantains set about them a place called Cumana, where the for two or three years, destroying all Privateers were once repulsed without the plantains by such time the cacao daring to attempt it any more, being trees are of a pretty good body and the only place in the North Seas they able to endure the heat, which I take attempted in vain for many years ; to be most pernicious to them of any and the Spaniards since throw it in thing; for though these valleys lie their teeth frequently as a word of
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. III . 122 reproach or defiance to them. Not any manner of bait, whether fish or far from that place is Varinas, a small flesh. The sucking-fish is about the village and Spanish plantation famous bigness of a large whiting, and much for its tobacco, reputed the best in the of the same shape towards the tail, world. But to return to Caracas. but the head is flatter. From the All this coast is subject to dry winds, head to the middle of its back there generally north-east, which caused us grows a sort of flesh of a hard gristly to have scabby lips ; and we always substance, like that part of the lim found it thus, and that in different pet, a shell-fish tapering up pyramidi seasons of the year, for I have been cally, which sticks to the rocks; or on this coast several times. In other like the head or mouth of a shell respects it is very healthy, and a sweet snail, but harder. This excrescence clear air. The Spaniards have look is of a flat oval form about seven or . outs or scouts on the hills, and eight inches long and five or six breastworks in the valleys, and most broad, and rising about half-an-inch of their Negroes are furnished with high. It is full of small ridges, with arms also for defence of the bays. which it will fasten itself to anything The Dutch have a very profitable that it meets with in the sea, just as trade here almost to themselves. I a snail does to a wall. When any of have known three or four great ships them happen to come about a ship, at a time on the coast, each, it may they seldom leave her, for they will be, of 30 or 40 guns. They carry feed on such filth as is daily thrown hither all sorts of European commo overboard, or on mere excrements. dities, especially linen, making vast When it is fair weather and but little returns, chiefly in silver and cacao. wind, they will play about the ship ; And I have often wondered and re but in blustering weather, or when gretted that none of my own country the ship sails quick, they commonly men find the way thither directly fasten themselves to the ship's bot from England, for our Jamaica-men tom, from whence neither the ship's trade thither indeed, and find the motion, though never so swift, nor sweet¹ of it, though they carry Eng the most tempestuous sea, can remove lish commodities at second or third them. They will likewise fasten hand. themselves to any other bigger fish, While we lay on this coast we went for they never swim fast themselves ashore in some of the bays and took if they meet with anything to carry seven or eight tons of cacao ; and after them. I have found them sticking that, three barks, one laden with to a shark after it was hauled in on hides, the second with European com the deck, though a shark is so strong modities, the third with earthenware and boisterous a fish, and throws and brandy. With these three barks about him so vehemently for half-an we went again to the Islands of hour together, it may be, when caught, Roques, where we shared our commo that did not the sucking-fish stick at dities, and separated, having vessels no ordinary rate it must needs be cast enough to transport us all whither off by so much violence. It is usual we thought most convenient. Twenty also to see them sticking to turtle, to of us (for we were about sixty) took any old trees, planks, or the like, one of the vessels and our share of the that lie driving at sea. Any knobs goods, and went directly for Virginia. or inequalities at a ship's bottom are In our way thither 2we took several of a great hindrance to the swiftness of the sucking- fishes, for when we see its sailing, and ten or twelve of these them about the ship we cast out a line sticking to it must needs retard it as and hook, and they will take it with much, in a manner, as if its bottom were foul. So that I am inclined to think that this fish is the Remora, of 1 Advantage, gratification. 2 The Echeneis remora, or sea lam- which the ancients tell such stories : if it be not, I know no other that is, prey.
123 PREPARATIONS FOR A NEW VOYAGE. 1682. ] 1 and I leave the reader to judge. Ition and in the First and Second have seen these sucking-fishes in great Chapters), there was one Mr Cooke, plenty in the Bay of Campeachy, and an English native of St Christopher's, in all the sea between that and the a Creole, as we call all born of Euro coast ofCaracas, as about those islands pean parents in the West Indies. particularly I have lately described, He was a sensible man, and had been Roques, Blanco, Tortuga, &c. They some years a Privateer. At our join have no scales, and are very good meat. ing ourselves with those Privateers We met nothing else worth remark we met at our coming again to the in our voyage to Virginia, where we North Seas, his lot was to be with arrived in July 1682. That country Captain Yanky, who kept company is so well known to our nation, that for some considerable time with Cap I shall say nothing of it ; nor shall I tain Wright, in whose ship I was, detain the reader with the story of and parted with us at our second my own affairs, and the troubles that anchoring at the Isle of Tortuga. befell me during about thirteen After our parting, this Mr Cooke, months of my stay there but in the being Quarter-master under Captain next Chapter enter immediately upon Yanky, the second place in the ship, my Second Voyage into the South according to the law of Privateers, Seas and round the Globe. laid claim to a ship they took from the Spaniards ; and such of Captain Yanky's men as were so disposed, par ticularly all those who came with us CHAPTER IV. overland, went aboard this prize ship, under the new Captain Cooke. This BEING now entering upon the rela distribution was made at the Isle of tion of a new voyage, which makes Vacca, or the Isle of Ash, as we call up the main body of this book, pro it ; and here they parted also such ceeding from Virginia by the way of goods as they had taken. But Cap Tierra del Fuego and the South Seas, tain Cooke having no commission, as the East Indies, and so on, till my Captain Yanky, Captain Tristian, and return to England by the way of the some other French commanders had, Cape of Good Hope, I shall give my who lay then at that island, and they reader this short account of my first grudging the English such a vessel, entrance upon it. Among those who they all joined together, plundered accompanied Captain Sharpe into the the English of thefr ship, goods, and South Seas in our former expedition, arms, and turned them ashore. Yet and, leaving him there, returned Captain Tristian took in about eight overland (as is said in the Introduc or ten of these English, and carried them with him to Petit Goave ; of 1 Pliny, in the opening chapter of which number Captain Cooke was his 32d book, is very eloquent on the one, and Captain Davis another, who powers of the echineis, or remora, or with the rest found means to seize delaying-fish. " Let the winds rush, " the ship as she lay at anchor in the he says,66 among other grandiose road, Captain Tristian and many of things, and the storms rage, one his men being then ashore. And the little fishling lays commands on their English sending ashore such French fury, and controls their mighty forces, men as remained in the ship and were and compels the ships to stand still : mastered by them, though superior a thing that could be done by no in number, stood away with her im bonds, by no anchor cast with irrevo mediately for the Isle of Vacca, before cable weight. It curbs the shocks any notice of this surprise could reach and tames the madness of the world the French Governor of that Isle ; so by no labour of its own, not by hold deceiving him also by a stratagem, ing back, nor in any other way than they got on board the rest of their countrymen who had been left on simply by adhering.
124 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. IV. that island ; and going thence they a week : it drenched us all like so took a ship newly come from France many drowned rats, and was one of laden with wines. They also took a the worst storms I ever was in. One ship of good force, in which they re- I met with in the East Indies was solved to embark themselves and more violent for the time, but of not make a new expedition into the South above twenty-four hours' continuance. Seas, to cruise on the coast of Chili After that storm we had favourable and Peru. But first they went for winds and good weather ; and in a Virginia with their prizes ; where they short time we arrived at the Island [of] arrived the April after my coming Sal, which is one of the easternmost thither. The best of their prizes of the Cape Verd Islands. Of these carried eighteen guns : this they there are ten in number, so consider fitted up there with sails and every- able as to bear distinct names ; and thing necessary for so long a voyage ; they lie several degrees off from Cape selling the wines they had taken for Verd in Africa, whence they receive such provisions as they wanted. that appellation ; taking up about 5° Myself and those of our fellow-travel- of longitude in breadth, and about as lers over the Isthmus of America who many of latitude in their length, viz. , came with me to Virginia the year from near 14° to 19° North. They before this (most of whom had since are mostly inhabited by Portuguese made a short voyage to Carolina, and banditti. This of Sal is an island, were again returned to Virginia), re- lying in Lat. 16°, in Long. 19° 33′ solved to join ourselves to these new W. from the Lizard in England, adventurers ; and as many more en- stretching from north to south gaged in the same design as made our about eight or nine leagues, and whole crew consist of about seventy not above a league and a half or two men. So having furnished ourselves leagues wide. It has its name from with necessary materials, and agreed the abundance of salt that is natur upon some particular rules, especially ally congealed there, the whole island of temperance and sobriety, by reason being full of large salt ponds. The of the length of our intended voyage, land is very barren, producing no tree that I could see, but some small we all went on board our ship. August 23d, 1683, we sailed from shrubby bushes by the sea-side ; Achamack¹ in Virginia, under the neither could I discern any grass ; command of Captain Cooke, bound yet there are some poor goats on it. for the South Seas. I shall not [The island was also well stocked with trouble the reader with an account of wild fowl, especially flamingoes, every day's run, but hasten to the which build their nests in shallow less known parts of the world, to give ponds among the mud. The bird a description of them : only relating itself is in shape like a heron, but such memorable accidents as happened bigger, and of a reddish colour. The to us, and such places as we touched flesh of both the young and old birds at by the way. We met nothing they found eatable, especially the worth observation till we came to the tongue, " a dish of flamingoes' Islands of Cape Verd, except a terrible tongues being fit for a prince's storm, which [we] could not escape : table."] There were not above five or six this happened in a few days after we left Virginia, with a SSE. wind just men on this Island of Sal, and a poor in our teeth. The storm lasted above Governor, as they called him, who came aboard in our boat, and brought 1 Accomack is a county in or rather three or four poor lean goats for a of Virginia, lying in some sort as an present to our Captain, telling him enclave in the peninsula of Maryland, they were the best that the island which runs down towards Cape Charles did afford. The Captain, minding between the Chesapeake and the At more the poverty of the giver than lantic Ocean. the value of the present, gave him in
1683.1 AMONG THE CAPE VERD ISLANDS. 125 requital a coat to clothe him ; for the sea-side, which were about twenty he had nothing but a few rags on his or thirty men more, were but in a back, and an old hat not worth three ragged garb. The Governor brougl.t farthings ; which yet I believe he aboard some wine made in the island , wore but seldom, for fear he should which tasted much like Madeira want before he might get another, for wine ; it was of a pale colour, and he told us there had not been a ship in looked thick. He told us the chief three years before. We bought of town was in a valley fourteen miles him about twenty bushels of salt for from the bay where we rode ; that he a few old clothes ; and he begged a had there under him above one hun little powder and shot. We stayed dred families besides other inhabitants here three days : in which time one that lived scattering in valleys more of these Portuguese offered to some remote. They were all very swarthy ; of our men a lump of ambergris in the Governor was the clearest of them, exchange for some clothes, desiring yet of a dark tawny complexion. At them to keep it secret ; for he said if this island we scrubbed the bottom the Governor should know it he should of our ship ; and here also we dug be hanged. At length one Mr Cop wells ashore on the bay, and filled pinger bought it for a small matter ; all our water ; and after five or six yet I believe he gave more than it days' stay we went from hence to was worth. We had not a man in the Mayo, another of the Cape Verd ship that knew ambergris : but I Islands, lying about forty miles E. have since seen it in other places, and by S. from the other ; arriving and therefore am certain it was not there the next day, and anchoring on right. It was of a dark colour like the NW. side of the island. We sent sheep's dung, and very soft, but of our boat on shore, intending to have no smell ; and possibly it was some of purchased some provision, as beef or their goats' dung. We went goats, with which this island is better from this Island of Salto San Nicolas, stocked than the rest of the islands. another of the Cape Verd Islands, But the inhabitants would not suffer lying WSW. from Sal about twenty our men to land ; for about a week two leagues. We arrived there the before our arrival, there came an Eng next day after we left the other, and lishship, the men of which came ashore anchored on the SE. side of the pretending friendship, and seized on island. This is a pretty large island ; the Governor with some others, and it is one of the biggest of all the carrying them aboard made them Cape Verd, and lies in a triangular send ashore for cattle to ransom their form. The largest side, which lies liberties and yet after this set sail , to the east, is about thirty leagues and carried them away, and they had long, and the other two above twenty not heard of them since. The Eng leagues each. It is a mountainous lishman that did this, as I was after barren island, and rocky all round wards informed, was one Captain towards the sea ; yet in the heart of Bond of Bristol. Whether ever he it there are valleys where the Portu brought back those men again, I guese which inhabit here have vine know not. He himself and most of yards and plantations and wood for his men have since gone over to the fuel. Here are many goats, which Spaniards : and it was he who had are but poor in comparison with those like to have burnt our ship after this in other places, yet much better than in the Bay of Panama, as I shall have those at Sal ; there are likewise many occasion to relate.¹ This Isle of Mayo asses. The Governor of this island is but small and environed with came aboard us, with three or four shoals, yet a place much frequented gentlemen more in his company, who by shipping, for its great plenty of were all indifferently well clothed, and salt ; and though there is but bad accoutred with swords and pistols ; 1 In Chapter VII. but the rest that accompanied him to
126 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [CHAP. IV. landing, yet many ships lade here | 1670, when I saw a fort here lying on every year. Here are plenty of bulls, the top of an hill, and commanding cows, and goats ; and at a certain the harbour. The Governor of this season in the year, as May, June, July, island is chief over all the rest of the and August, a sort of small sea tor islands. I have been told that there are toise come hither to lay their eggs two large towns on this island, some but these turtle are not so sweet as small villages, and a great many in those in the West Indies. The inha habitants ; and that they make a bitants plant corn, yams, potatoes, great deal of wine, such as is that of and some plantains, and breed a few San Nicolas. I have not been on fowls ; living very poor, yet much any other of the Cape Verd Islands, better than the inhabitants of any nor near them, but have seen most other of these islands, Santiago ex ofthem at a distance. They seem to be cepted, which lies four or five leagues mountainous and barren, some of these to the westward of Mayo, and is the before mentioned being the most fruit chief, the most fruitful, and best in ful and most frequented by strangers, habited of all the Islands of Cape especially Santiago and Mayo. As to Verd ; yet mountainous, and much the rest of them, Fogo and Brava are barren land in it. two small islands lying to the west On the east side of the Isle of San ward of Santiago, but of little note ; tiago is a good port, which in peace only Fogo is remarkable for its being able times especially is seldom with a volcano. It is all of it one large out ships ; for this hath long been a mountain of a good height, out of the place which ships have been wont to top whereof issue flames of fire, yet touch at for water and refreshments, only discerned in the night ; and then as those outward bound to the East it may be seen a great way at sea. Indies, English, French, and Dutch ; Yet this island is not without inha many ofthe ships bound to the coast bitants, who live at the foot of the of Guinea, and Dutch to Surinam, mountain near the sea. Their sub and their own Portuguese Fleet going sistence is much the same as in the for Brazil, which is generally about other islands ; they have some goats, the latter end of September : but few fowls, plantains, cocoa-nuts, &c. , as The remainder of ships call in here in their return for I am informed. Europe. When any ships are here these islands of Cape Verd are San the country people bring down their Antonia, Santa Lucia, San Vincente, commodities to sell to the seamen and Bona Vista : of which I know and passengers, viz. , bullocks, hogs, nothing considerable. Our entrance among these islands goats, fowls, eggs, plantains, and cocoa-nuts ; which they will give in was from the NE.; for in our passage exchange for shirts, drawers, hand from Virginia we ran pretty far to kerchiefs, hats, waistcoats, breeches, ward the coast of Gualata 2 in Africa, or in a manner for any sort of cloth, to preserve the trade-wind, lest we especially linen ; for woollen is not should be borne off too much to the much esteemed there. They care not westward, and so lose the islands. willingly to part with their cattel¹ of We anchored at the south of Sal, and any sort but in exchange for money, passing by the south of San Nicolas or linen, or some other valuable com anchored again at Mayo, as hath been modity. Travellers must have a care said ; where we made the shorter of these people, for they are very stay, because we could get no flesh thievish, and, if they see an oppor among the inhabitants, by reason of tunity, will snatch anything from you and run away with it. We did 2 Apparently the coast north of not touch at this island in this voyage ; Cape Blanco, under the Tropic of but I was there before this in the year Cancer ; two Arab tribes with the designation of Aoulâd or Walad in habit the interior. 1 Goods, chattels.
ON THE GUINEA COAST. 1683-4. ] 127 We had but little wind after we the regret they had at their Governor and his men being carried away by got out, and very hot weather, with Captain Bond. So leaving the Isles some fierce tornadoes, commonly ris of Cape Verd we stood away to the ing out of the NE., which brought southward with the wind at ENE. , thunder, lightning , and rain. These intending to have touched no more did not last long ; sometimes not a till we came to the Straits of Magel quarter of an hour ; and then the lan. But when we came into the Lat. wind would shuffle about to the south of 10° N., we met the winds at S. by ward again, and fall flat calm ; for W. and SSW. , therefore we altered these tornadoes commonly come our resolutions, and steered away for against the wind that is then blowing, the coast of Guinea, and in few as our thunder-clouds are often ob days came to the mouth of the River served to do in England. At this of Sherboro', which is an English time many of our men were taken factory lying south of Sierra Leone. with fevers : yet we lost but one. We had one of our men who was well While we lay in the calms we caught acquainted there ; and by his direc several great sharks ; sometimes two tion we went in among the shoals, or three in a day, and ate them all, and came to an anchor. Sherboro' boiling and squeezing them dry, and was a good way from us, so I can give then stewing them with vinegar, no account of the place, or our factory pepper, &c. , for we had but little there ; save that I have been inform flesh aboard. We took the benefit of ed, that there is a considerable trade every tornado, which came sometimes driven there for a sort of red wood for three or four in a day, and carried dyeing, which grows in that country what sail we could to get to the south very plentifully ; it is called by our ward, for we had but little wind when people Camwood. A little within the they were over ; and those small shore where we anchored was a town winds between the tornadoes were of Negroes, natives of this coast. It much against us till we passed the was screened from our sight by a Equinoctial Line. In the Lat. of 5° S. large grove oftrees that grew between we had the wind at ESE. , where it them and the shore ; but we went stood a considerable time, and blew a thither to them several times during fresh topgallant gale. We then made the three or four days of our stay the best use of it, steering on briskly here, to refresh ourselves ; and they with allthe sail we could make ; andthis as often came aboard us, bringing wind by the 18th of January carried with them plantains, sugar-canes, us into the Lat. of 36° S. In all this palm-wines, rice, fowls, and honey, time we met with nothing worthy which they sold us. They were no remark ; not so much as a fish, except way shy of us, being well acquainted flying fish, which have been so often with the English, by reason of our described, that I think it needless for Guinea factories and trade. This me to do it. Here we found the sea town seemed pretty large ; the houses much changed fromits natural green but low and ordinary ; but one great ness, to a white or palish colour, house in the midst of it, where their which caused us to sound, supposing chief men meet and receive strangers : we might strike ground ; for when and here they treated us with palm ever we find the colour of the sea to wine. As to their persons they are change, we know we are not far from like other Negroes. While we lay land, or shoals which stretch out into here we scrubbed the bottom of our the sea, running from some land. ship, and then filled all our water But here we found no ground with 100 casks ; and buying up two puncheons fathom line. The 20th, one of our ofrice for our voyage, we departed from Surgeons died, much lamented, be hence about the middle of November cause we had but one more for such a 1683, prosecuting our intended course dangerous voyage. towards the Straits of Magellan . January 28th, we made the Sibbel
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. IV. 128 de Wards, 1 which are three islands | of Le Maire, which is very high land lying in the Lat. of 51° 25' S. , and on both sides, and the Straits very Long. W. from the Lizard in Eng- narrow. We had the wind at NNW. land, by my account, 57° 28'. I had, a fresh gale ; and seeing the opening for a month before we came hither, ofthe Straits, we ran in with it, till endeavoured to persuade Captain Cooke within four miles of the mouth, and and his company to anchor at these then it fell calm, and we found a islands, where I told them we might strong tide setting out of the Straits probably get water, as I then thought ; to the northward, and like to founder and in case we should miss it here, our ship ; but whether flood or ebb I yet by being good husbands of what know not ; only it made such a short we had, we might reach Juan Fer- cockling sea as if we had been in a nandez in the South Seas, before our race, or place where two tides meet. water was spent. This I urged to For it ran every way, sometimes hinder their designs of going through | breaking in over our waist, sometimes the Straits of Magellan, which I knew over our poop, sometimes over our would prove very dangerous to us ; bow, and the ship tossed like an egg the rather, because our men being shell, so that I never felt such uncer Privateers, and so more wilful and tain jerks in a ship. At 8 o'clock in less under command, would not be so the evening we had a small breeze at ready to give a watchful attendance WNW. , and steered away to the east in a passage so little known. For ward, intending to go round the although these men were more under Staten Island, the east end of which command than I had ever seen any we reached the next day by noon, Privateers, yet I could not expect to having a fresh breeze all night. At find them at a minute's call in coming the east end of Staten Island are three to anchor, or weighing anchor : be small islands, or rather rocks, pretty sides, if ever we should have occasion high, and white with the dung of to moor, or cast out two anchors, we fowls. Having observed the sun, we had not a boat to carry out or weigh hauled up south, designing to pass an anchor. These Islands of Sibbel round to the southward of Cape Horn, de Wards were so named by the which is the southernmost land of Dutch. They are all three rocky Tierra del Fuego. The winds hung barren islands without any tree, only in the western quarter betwixt the some dildo bushes growing on them ; NW. and the W. , so that we could and I do believe there is no water on not get much to the westward, and any one of them, for there was no ap we never saw Tierra del Fuego after that evening that we made the Straits pearance of any water. Leaving therefore the Sibbel de of Le Maire. I have heard that there Ward Islands, as having neither good have been smokes and fires on Tierra anchorage nor water, we sailed on, del Fuego, not on the tops of hills, directing our course for the Straits of but in plains and valleys, seen by Magellan. But the winds hanging in those who have sailed through the the wester-board, and blowing hard, Straits of Magellan ; supposed to be oft put us by our topsails ; so that we made by the natives. " The 6th of could not fetch it. The 14th of February, being in Lat. February we fell in with the Straits 57°, and to the west of Cape Horn, we had a violent storm, which held us 1 The Sebaldine group, lying on till the 3d day of March, blowing the north-west of the Falkland Is commonly at SW. and SW. by W. lands ; they were discovered by the 2 In the account of Drake's voyage Dutch navigator Sebald de Wert in 1600, and, until Commodore Byron (ante, page 56), we find it stated : rechristened them in 1765, they gave " The people inhabiting these parts their name to the whole group now made fires as we passed by in divers called the Falklands. places. "
129 1684.1 THE MOSQUITO INDIAN OF JUAN FERNANDEZ. and WSW. , thick weather all the | a Mosquito Indian whom we left here time, with small drizzling rain, but when we were chased hence by three not hard. We made a shift, however, Spanish ships in the year 1681, a little to save twenty-three barrels of rain before we went to Arica, Captain water besides what we dressed our Watling being then our commander, victuals withal. March the 3d, the after Captain Sharpe was turned out. wind shifted at once, and cameabout at This Indian lived here alone above S., blowing a fierce gale of wind ; soon three years, and although he was after it came about to the eastward, several times sought after by the and we stood into the South Seas. Spaniards, who knew he was left on The 9th, having an observation of the the island, yet they could never find sun, not having seen it of late, we him. He was in the woods hunting found ourselves in Lat. 47° 10′. The for goats when Captain Watling drew wind stood at SE., we had fair weather, off his men, and the ship was under and a moderate gale ; and the 17th, sail before he came back to shore. H : we were in Lat. 36° by observation. had with him his gun and a knife The 19th day, when we looked out in with a small horn of powder, and & the morning, we saw a ship to the few shot, which being spent, he con southward of us coming with all the trived a way, by notching his knife, sail she could make after us. We lay to saw the barrel of his gun into small muzzled to let her come up with us, pieces, wherewith he made harpoons, for we supposed her to be a Spanish lances, hooks, and a long knife ; heat ship come from Valdivia bound to ing the pieces first in the fire, which Lima ; we being now to the north he struck with his gun-flint, and a ward of Valdivia, and this being the piece of the barrel of his gun, which time of the year when ships that trade he hardened, having learnt to do that thence to Valdivia return home. They among the English. The hot pieces had the same opinion of us, and there of iron he would hammer out and fore made sure to take us, but coming bend as he pleased with stones, and nearer we both found our mistakes. saw them with his jagged knife, or This proved to be one Captain Eaton, grind them to an edge by long labour, in a ship sent purposely from London and harden them to a good temper as for the South Seas. We hailed each there was occasion. All this may other, and the Captain came on seem strange to those that are not board, and told us of his actions on acquainted with the sagacity of the the coast of Brazil and in the river of Indians ; but it is no more than these Plate. He met Captain Swan, one Mosquito men are accustomed to in that came from England to trade their own country, where they make here, at the east entrance into the their own fishing and striking instru Straits of Magellan, and they accom ments without either forge or anvil, panied each other through the Straits, though they spend a great deal of and were separated after they were time about them. Other wild Indians through by the storm before men who have not the use of iron, which tioned. Both we and Captain Eaton the Mosquito men have from the Eng being bound for Juan Fernandez's lish, make hatchets of a very hard Isle, we kept company, and we spared stone, with which they will cut down him bread and beef and he spared trees (the cotton tree especially, which us water, which he took in as he is a soft tender wood), to build their passed through the Straits. houses or make canoes ; and though March the 22d, 1684, we came in in working their canoes hollow they sight of the island, and the next day cannot dig them so neat and thin, yet got in and anchored in a bay at the they will make them fit for their ser south end of the island , in twenty-five vice. This their digging or hatchet fathom water, not two cables ' length work they help out by fire, whether from the shore. We presently got out for the felling of the trees or for the our canoe and went ashore to seek for making the inside of their canoes hol I
130 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. IV. low. These contrivances are used threw himself flat on his face at his particularly by the savage Indians of feet, who, helping him up and em Blewfields River, whose canoes and bracing him, fell flat with his face stone hatchets I have seen. These on the ground at Robin's feet, and stone hatchets are about ten inches was by him taken up also. We stood long, four broad, and three inches with pleasure to behold the surprise thick in the middle. They are and tenderness and solemnity of this ground away flat and sharp at both interview, which was exceedingly af ends ; right in the midst, and clear fectionate on both sides ; and when round it, they make a notch, so wide their ceremonies of civility were over, and deep that a man might place his we also that stood gazing at them finger along it ; and taking a stick or drew near, each of us embracing him withe about four feet long, they bind we had found here, who was overjoyed it round the hatchet-head in that to see so many of his old friends come notch, and so twisting it hard, use it hither, as he thought, purposely to as a handle or helve, 1 the head being fetch him. He was named Will, as held by it very fast. Nor are other the other was named Robin. These wild Indians less ingenious . Those were names given them by the Eng of Patagonia, particularly, head their lish, for they have no names among arrows with flint cut or ground, which themselves ; and they take it as a I have seen and admired. 2 great favour to be named by any of But to return to our Mosquito man us, and will complain for want of it on the Isle of Juan Fernandez. With if we do not appoint them some name such instruments as he made in that when they are with us, saying, of manner, he got such provision as the themselves they are poor men and island afforded, either goats or fish. have no name. He told us that at first he was forced This island is in Lat. 34° 15', and to eat seal, which is very ordinary about 120 leagues from the main. It meat, before he had made hooks ; but is about twelve leagues round, full of afterwards he never killed any seals high hills and small pleasant valleys, but to make lines, cutting their skins which, if manured, would probably into thongs. He had a little house produce anything proper for the cli or hut half-a-mile from the sea, mate. The sides of the mountains which was lined with goatskin ; his are part savannahs, part woodland. couch, or barbecue, of sticks, lying Savannahs are clear pieces of land along about two feet distant from the without woods, not because more ground, was spread with the same, barren than the woodland, for they and was all his bedding. He had no are frequently spots of as good land clothes left, having worn out those as any, and often are intermixed with he brought from Watling's ship, but woodland. [ The grass in these savan only a skin about his waist. He saw nahs is here described as long and our ship the day before we came to an flaggy, and the valleys well stocked anchor, and did believe we were Eng withwild goats, these having been first lish, and therefore killed three goats left there by Juan Fernandez in his in the morning before we came to voyage from Lima to Valdivia. The anchor, and dressed them with cab sea about it is described as swarming bage to treat us when we came ashore. with fish, " so plentiful that two men He came then to the sea-side to con in an hour's time will take with hook gratulate our safe arrival. And when and line as many as will serve 100 we landed, a Mosquito Indian, named men."] Seals swarm as thick about this Robin, first leaped ashore, and run ning to his brother Mosquito-man, island as if they had no other place to live in, for there is not a bay 1 From Anglo-Saxon " helf, " a nor rock that one can get ashore haft or handle. on but is full of them. The seals 2 Marvelled at. are a sort of creatures pretty well
1684. ] DESCRIPTION OF THE SEAL AND " SEA-LION. " 131 known, yet it may not be amiss to seal-skins and train-oil, for they are describe them. They are as big as extraordinary fat. Seals are found as calves, the head of them like a dog, well in cold as hot climates, and in therefore called by the Dutch sea the cold places they love to get on hounds. Under each shoulder grows lumps of ice, where they will lie and a long thick fin ; these serve them to sun themselves as here on the land. swim with them in the sea, and are They are frequent in the northern instead of legs to them when on the parts of Europe and America, and land, for raising their bodies up on in the southward parts of Africa, end by the help of these fins or as about the Cape of Good Hope, stumps, and so having their tail-parts and at the Straits of Magellan ; drawn close under them, they rebound, and though I never saw any in the as it were, and throw their bodies West Indies but in the Bay of Cam forward, drawing their hinder parts peachy, at certain islands called the after them ; and then again rising up Alecranes, and at others called the and springing forward with their Desertas, yet they are over all the fore-parts alternately, they lie tum American coast of the South Seas, bling up and down all the while they from Tierra del Fuego up to the Equi are moving on land. From their noctial Line ; but to the north of the shoulders to their tails they grow Equinox again in these seas I never tapering like fish, and have two small saw any till as far as 21° N. Nor did fins on each side of the rump, which I ever see any in the East Indies. In is commonly covered with their fins. general they seem to resort where These fins serve instead of a tail in there is plenty of fish, for that is their the sea, and on land they sit on them food ; and fish such as they feed on, when they give suck to their young. as cods, groopers, &c. , are most plen Their hair is of divers colours, as tiful on rocky coasts, and such is black, grey, dun, spotted, looking mostly the western coast of South very sleek and pleasant when they America. come first out of the sea ; for these at The sea -lion¹ is a large creature Juan Fernandez have fine thick short about twelve or fourteen feet long. fut , the like I have not taken notice The biggest part of his body is as big of anywhere but in these seas. Here as a bull : it is shaped like a seal, but are always thousands, I might say six times as big. The head is like a possibly millions of them, sitting on lion's head ; it hath a broad face, the bays or going and coming in the with many long hairs growing about sea round the island, which is covered its lips like a cat. It has a great goggle with them, as they lie at the top of eye, the teeth three inches long, the water playing and sunning them about the bigness of a man's thumb. selves for a mile or two from the In Captain Sharpe's time some of our shore. When they come out of the men made dice with them . They sea, they bleat like sheep for their have no hair on their bodies like the young; and though they pass through seal ; they are of a dun colour, and hundreds of others' young ones before are all extraordinary fat : one of them they come to their own, yet they will being cut up and boiled will yield a not suffer any of them to suck. The hogshead of oil, which is very sweet young ones are like puppies, and lie and wholesome to fry meat withal. much ashore ; but when beaten by The lean flesh is black, and of a any of us, they, as well as the old coarse grain, yet indifferent good ones, will make towards the sea, and food. They will lie a week at a time Where swim very swift and nimble, though ashore if not disturbed. on shore they lie very sluggishly, and three or four or more of them come will not go out of our ways unless we ashore together, they huddle one on beat them, but snap at us. A blow on the nose soon kills them. Large 1 A large species of seal, the male ships might here load themselves with of which has a mane on its neck.
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. V. 132 another like swine, and grunt like and their diseases were chiefly scor them, making a hideous noise. They butic. eat fish, which I believe is their com mon food. The snapper is a fish CHAPTER V. made much like a roach, but a great deal bigger. It has a large head and mouth, and great gills. The back is THE 8th of April 1684, we sailed from of a bright red, the belly of a silver the Isle of Juan Fernandez with the colour. The scales are as broad as a wind at SE. We were now two ships shilling. The snapper is excellent in company : Captain Cooke's, whose meat. They are in many places in ship I was in, and who here took the the West Indies and the South Seas. sickness of which he died a while The rock-fish is called by seamen a after ; and Captain Eaton's. Our grooper : the Spaniards call it " bac passage lay now along the Pacific Sea, calao, " which is the name for cod, properly so called . For though it be because it is much like it. It is usual with our map-makers to give rounder than the snapper, of a dark that name to this whole Ocean, call brown colour, and hath small scales ing it Mare Australe, Mare del Zur, or no bigger than a silver penny. This Mare Pacificum ; yet, in my opinion, fish is good sweet meat, and is found the name of the Pacific Sea ought not in great plenty on all the coast of to be extended from S. to N. farther Peru and Chili. than from 30° to about 4° S. Lat. , and There are only two bays in the from the American shore westward whole island where ships may anchor ; indefinitely. In this sea we made these are both at the east end, and in the best of our way towards the Line, both of them is a rivulet of good fresh till in the Lat. of 24° S. , where we water. Either of these bays may be fell in with the mainland of South fortified, with little charge, to that America. All this course of the degree that fifty men in each may be land, both of Chili and Peru, is vastly able to keep off 1000 ; and there is no high ; therefore we kept twelve or coming into these bays from the west fourteen leagues off from shore, being end but with great difficulty, over unwilling to be seen by the Spaniards the mountains, where if three men dwelling there. The land (especially are placed they may keep down as beyond this, from 24° S. Lat. to 17º, many as come against them on any and from 14° to 10°) is of a most pro side. This was partly experienced digious height. It lies generally in by five Englishmen that Captain ridges parallel to the shore, and three Davis left here, who defended them or four ridges one within another, selves against a great body of Span each surpassing other in height ; and iards who landed in the bays, and those that are farthest within land came here to destroy them ; and are much higher than the others. though the second time one of their They always appear blue when seen consorts deserted and fled to the at sea : sometimes they are obscured Spaniards, yet the other four kept with clouds, but not so often as the their ground, and were afterward high lands in other parts of the world ; taken in from hence by Captain for here are seldom or never any rains Strong of London. on these hills, any more than in the We remained at Juan Fernandez sea near it ; neither are they subject sixteen days. Our sick men were to fogs. These are the highest moun ashore all the time, and one of Cap- tains that ever I saw, far surpassing tain Eaton's doctors (for he had four the Peak of Teneriffe, or Santa Marta, in his ship) tending and feeding them and I believe any mountains in the with goat, and several herbs, whereof world. The excessive height of these here is plenty growing in the brooks ; mountains may possibly be the rea son that there are no rivers of note 1 The Gobius niger, or black goby. that fall into these seas. Some small
A "TIMBER '"" PRIZE TAKEN. 133 1684. ] rivers indeed there are, but very few | little islands, each about amile round, of them, for in some places there is of an indifferent height, a small chan not one that comes out into the sea nel between, fit for boats only ; and in 150 or 200 leagues ; and where several rocks lying on the north side they are thickest, they are thirty, of the islands, a little way from shore. forty, or fifty leagues asunder, and Within land they are both of them too little and shallow to be navigable. partly rocky and partly sandy, barren, Besides, some of these do not con without any fresh water, tree, shrub, stantly run, but are dry at certain grass, or herbs ; or any land animals seasons of the year, being rather tor (for the seals and sea- lions come rents or land-floods caused by their ashore here) but fowls, of which there rains at certain seasons far within are great multitudes ; as boobies, but mostly penguins, which I have land than perennial streams. We kept still along in sight of this seen plentifully all over the South coast, but at a good distance from it, Seas, on the coast of Newfoundland, encountering nothing of note, till in and off the Cape of Good Hope. They the Lat. of 9° 40′ S. , on the 3d of are a sea fowl, about as big as a duck, May, we descried a sail to the north and such feet, but a sharp bill ; feeding ward of us, plying to windward. We on fish. They do not fly, but flutter, chased her, and Captain Eaton being having rather stumps like a young ahead soon took her. She came from gosling's than wings ; and these are Guayaquil about a month before, laden instead of fins to them in the water. with timber, and was bound to Lima. Their feathers are downy. Their Three days before we took her she flesh is but ordinary food ; but their came from Santa, whither she had eggs are good meat. There is an. gone for water, and where they had other sort of small black fowl, that news of our being in these seas by an make holes in the sand for their night express from Valdivia ; for, as we habitations, whose flesh is good sweet afterwards heard, Captain Swan had meat : I never saw any of them but been at Valdivia to seek a trade there, here, and at Juan Fernandez. Here we scrubbed our ships, and and he having met Captain . Eaton in the Straits of Magellan, the Spaniards being in readiness to sail, the pri of Valdivia were doubtless informed soners were examined, to know if any of us by him ; suspecting him also to of them could conduct us to some be one of us, though he was not. town where we might make some at Upon this news, the Viceroy of Lima tempt ; for they had before informed sent expresses to all the seaports, that us that we were descried by the they might provide themselves against Spaniards, and by that we knew that our assaults. We immediately steered they would send no riches by sea so away for the Island of Lobos, which long as we were here. Many towns lies in Lat. 6° 24' S. , and is five leagues were considered on, as Guayaquil, from the main : it is called Lobos de Sana, Truxillo, and others. At last la Mar, to distinguish it from an Truxillo was pitched on as the most other that is not far from it, and important, therefore the likeliest to extremely like it, called Lobos de la make us a voyage if we could conquer Tierra, for it lies near the main. it, which we did not much question, Lobos, or Lovos, is the Spanish name though we knew it to be a very popu for a seal, of which there are great lous city. But the greatest difficulty plenty about these and several other was in landing ; for Huanchaco [to islands in these seas that go by this the north of Truxillo], which is the name. The 9th of May, we arrived nearest seaport to it, but six miles off, at this Isle of Lobos de la Mar, and is an ill place to land, since some came to an anchor with our prize. times the very fishermen that live This Lobos consists indeed of two there are not able to go out in three or four days. However, the 17th of 1 Or Lobos de Afuera. May, in the afternoon, our men were
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [ CHAP . V. 134 mustered of both ships' companies, | be frugal of it, for he knew not when and their arms proved. We were in he should send more. In this ship all 108 men fit for service, besides the were likewise seven or eight tons of sick ; and the next day we intended marmalade of quinces, and a stately to sail and take the wood prize with mule sent to the President, and a very us. But the next day one of our large image of the Virgin Mary in men, being ashore betimes on the wood, carved and painted, to adorn island, descried three sail bound to a new church at Panama, and sent the northward ; two of them without from Lima by the Viceroy ; for this the island to the westward, the other great ship came from thence not long between it and the continent. We before. She brought also from Lima soon got our anchors up and chased , 800,000 pieces of eight, to carry with and Captain Eaton, who drew the her to Panama ; but while she lay at least draught of water, put through Huanchaco, taking in her lading of between the westernmost island and flour, the merchants, hearing of Cap the rocks, and went after those two tain Swan's being at Valdivia, ordered that were without the islands. We the money ashore again. These pri in Captain Cooke's ship went after soners likewise informed us that the the other, which stood in for the gentlemen, inhabitants of Truxillo, mainland ; but we soon fetched her were building a fort at Huanchaco, up ; and, having taken her, stood in close by the sea, purposely to hinder again with her to the island, for we the designs ofany that should attempt saw that Captain Eaton wanted no to land there. Upon this news we help, having taken both those that altered our former resolutions, and he went after. He came in with one resolved to go with our three prizes of his prizes ; but the other was so to the Galapagos, which are a great far to feeward, and so deep, that he many large islands, lying some under could not then get her in, but he the Equator, others on each side hoped to get her in the next day ; of it. The 19th, in the evening, we sailed but being deeply laden, as designed to go down before the wind to Pana from the Island of Lobos, with Cap ma, she would not bear sail. The tain Eaton in our company.. We 19th, she turned all day, but got no carried the three flour prizes with us, thing nearer the island. Our Mos but our first prize, laden with timber, quito strikers, according to their cus we left here at anchor. We steered tom, went out and struck six turtles ; away NW. by N. , intending to run for here are indifferent plenty of into the latitude of the Isles of Gala them. These ships that we took the pagos, and steer off W., because we day before we came from Huanchaco did not know the certain distance, were all three laden with flour, bound and therefore could not shape a direct for Panama. Two of them were laden course to them. When we came as deep as they could swim ; the within 40' of the Equator, we steered other was not above half laden, but W. , having the wind at S. , a very was ordered by the Viceroy of Lima moderate gentle gale. It was the to sail with the other two, or else she 31st of May when we first had sight should not sail till we were gone out of the Islands Galapagos. Some of of the seas ; for he hoped they might them appeared on our weatherbow, escape us by setting out early. In some on our lee bow, others right the biggest ship was a letter to the ahead. We at first sight trimmed our President of Panama from the Vice sails, and steered as nigh the wind as roy of Lima, assuring him that there we could, striving to get to the were enemies come into that sea ; for southernmost of them ; but our prizes which reason he had despatched these being deep laden, their sails but three ships with flour, that they small and thin, and a very small gale, might not want (for Panama is sup they could not keep up with us. plied from Peru), and desired him to Therefore welikewiseedged awayagair
AMONG THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS. 135 1684. ] a point from the wind, to keep near which grow here in great groves. In them ; and, in the evening, the ship these large islands there are some that I was in, and Captain Eaton, pretty big rivers ; and on many of anchored on the east side of one of the other lesser islands there are the easternmost islands, a mile from brooks ofgood water. The Spaniards, the shore, in sixteen fathoms water, when they first discovered these clean, white, hard sand. The Gala islands, found multitudes of guanas, pagos Islands are a great number of and land-turtle or tortoise, andnamed uninhabited islands lying under and them the Galapagos Islands. I do on both sides of the Equator. The believe there is no place in the world easternmost of them are about 110 that is so plentifully stored with these leagues from the main. The Span animals. The guanas here are as fat iards who first discovered them, and and large as any that I ever saw ; in whose draughts alone they are laid they are so tame, that a man may down, report them to be a great knock down twenty in an hour's time number, stretching north-west from with a club. The land-turtle are so the Line as far as 5° N.; but we saw numerous, that 500 or 600 men might not above fourteen or fifteen. They subsist on them alone for several are some of them seven or eight months, without any other sort of leagues long, and three or four broad. provision ; they are extraordinary They are of a good height, most of large and fat, and so sweet, that no them flat and even on the top ; four pullet eats more pleasantly. One of or five of the easternmost are rocky, the largest of these creatures will barren, and hilly, producing neither weigh 150 or 200 lbs. , and some of tree, herb, nor grass, but a few dildo them are two feet or two feet six trees, except by the sea-side. The inches over the gallapee² or belly. I dildo tree is a green prickly shrub, did never see any but at this place that grows about ten or twelve feet that will weigh above 30 lbs. I have high, without either leaf or fruit. It heard that at the Isle of St Lawrence is as big as a man's leg from the root or Madagascar, and at the English to the top, and it is full of sharp Forest, an island near it, called also prickles, growing in thick rows from Don Mascarin,3 and now possessed top to bottom. This shrub is fit for by the French, there are very large no use, not so much as to burn. ones ; but whether so big, fat, and Close by the sea there grow in some sweet as these, I know not. There places bushes of Burton-wood, which are three or four sorts of these crea is very good firing. This sort of wood tures in the West Indies. One is grows in many places in the West called by the Spaniards " hecatee ; " Indies, especially in the Bay of Cam these live most in fresh-water ponds, peachy, and in the Sambaloes. I did and seldom come on land. They never see any in these seas but here. weigh about 10 or 15 lbs.; they have There is water on these barren small legs and flat feet, and small islands, in ponds and holes among the rocks. Some others of these 2 The callipee is the gelatinous sub islands are mostly plain and low, and stance, of a light yellowish colour, the land more fertile ; producing trees which forms part of the lower of divers sorts unknown to us. Some shield of the turtle ; callipash is the of the westernmost of these islands are similar substance, of a dull greenish nine or ten leagues long, and six or hue, which belongs to the upper seven broad ; the mould deep and shield. black. These produce trees ofgreatand The general name for the group tall bodies, especially mammee trees, ¹ of islands in the Indian Ocean that comprises Mauritius and Reunion, is 1 The Mammco Americana, a genus the Mascarenhas Islands, so called with only one species ; it bears a fruit from the name of their Portuguese dis. sweet in taste and aromatic in odour. coverer, in 1545.
136 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE long necks. Another sort is called terrapin ; these are a great deal less than the hecatee ; the shell on their backs is all carved naturally, finely wrought and well clouded ; the backs of these are rounder than those be fore mentioned ; they are otherwise much of the same form : these de light to live in wet swampy places, or on the land near such places. Both these sorts are very good meat. They are in great plenty on the Isle of Pines near Cuba . there the Spanish hunters, when they meet them in the woods, bring them home to their buts, and mark them by notching their shells, then let them go ; this they do to have them at hand, for they never ramble far from thence. When these hunters return to Cuba, after about a month or six weeks' stay, they carry with them 300 or 400, or more, of these creatures to sell ; for they are very good meat, and every man knows his own by their marks. These tortoises in the Galapagos are more like the hecatee, except that, as I said before, they are much bigger, and they have very long small necks and little heads. There are some green snakes on these islands, but no other land animal that I did ever see. There are great plenty of turtle doves, so tame, that a man may kill five or six dozen in a forenoon with a stick. They are somewhat less than a pigeon, and are very good meat, and commonly fat. There are good wide channels be tween these islands, fit for ships to pass, and in some places shoal water, where there grows plenty of turtle grass ; therefore these islands are plentifully stored with sea-turtle, of that sort which is called the green turtle. There are four sorts of sea turtle-viz. , the trunk turtle, the loggerhead, the hawksbill, and the green turtle. The trunk turtle is commonly bigger than the others, their backs are higher and rounder, and their flesh rank and not whole
ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. V. some. The loggerhead is so called because it has a great head, much bigger than the other sorts ; their flesh is likewise very rank and sel dom eaten but in case of necessity ; they feed on moss that grows about rocks. The hawksbill turtle is the least kind ; they are so called because their mouths are long and small, some what resembling the bill of a hawk. Hawksbill turtle are in many places of the West Indies. They have islands and places peculiar to them selves, where they lay their eggs, and seldom come among any other turtle. These, and all other turtle, lay eggs in the sand ; in N. Latitude, their time of laying is in May, June, July ; in S. Latitude, about Christmas ; some begin sooner, some later ; they lay three times in a season, and at each time eighty or ninety eggs. Their eggs are as a big as a hen's egg, and very round, covered only with a white tough skin. There are some bays on the north side of Jamaica, where these hawksbills re sort to lay. In the Bay of Honduras are islands which they likewise make their breeding places, and many places along all the coast on the main of the West Indies, from Trinidad to La Vera Cruz, in the Bay of Nova Hispania. When a sea-turtle turns out of the sea to lay, she is at least an hour before she returns again ; for she is to go above high-water mark, and if it be low-water when she comes ashore, she must rest once or twice, being heavy, before she comes to the place where she lays. When she has found a place for her purpose, she makes a great hole with her fins in the sand, wherein she lays her eggs, then covers them two feet deep with the same sand which she threw out of the hole, and so returns ; sometimes they come up the night before they intend to lay, and take a view of the place ; and so, having made a tour or semicircular march, they return to the sea again, and they never fail to come ashore the next night to lay near that place. 1 Otherwise " terrapene, " the box All sorts of turtle use the same tortoise. methods in laying, I knew a man
1684. ] THE "HAWKSBILL " in Jamaica that made £8 sterling of the shell of these hawksbill turtle which he got in one season, and in one small bay not half a mile long. The manner of taking them is to watch the bay by walking from one part to the other all night ; making no noise, nor keeping any sort of light. When the turtle come ashore, the man that watches for them turns them on their backs, then hauls them above high-water mark, and leaves them tillthe morning. A large green turtle, with her weight and strug gling, will puzzle two men to turn her. The hawksbill turtle are not only found in the West Indies, but on the coast of Guinea, and in the East Indies ; I never saw any in the South Seas. The green turtle are so called be cause their shell is greener than any other. It is verythin and clear, and better clouded than the hawksbill ; but it is used only for inlays, being extraordinary thin. These turtles are generally larger than the hawks bill ; one will weigh 200 or 300 lbs.; their backs are flatter than the hawksbill, their heads round and small. Green turtle are the sweetest of all the kinds ; but there are de grees of them, both in respect to their flesh and their bigness. I have observed that at Blanco, in the West Indies, the green turtle (which is the only kind there) are larger than any others in the North Seas ; there they commonly will weigh 280 or 300 lbs. Their fat is yellow and the lean white, and their flesh extraordin ary sweet. At Boca del Toro, west of Porto Bello, they are not so large, their flesh not so white, nor the fat so yellow. Those in the Bays of Honduras and Campeachy are some what smaller still ; their fat is green, and the lean of a darker colour than those at Boca del Toro. I heard of a monstrous green turtle once taken at Port Royal, in the Bay of Campeachy, that was four feet deep from the back to the belly, and the belly six feet broad. Captain Rocky's son, of about nine or ten years of age, went in it, as in a boat, on board his father's
AND GREEN TURTLE.
137 ship about a quarter of a mile from the shore ; the leaves ¹ of fat afforded eight gallons of oil. The turtle that live among the keys or small islands on the south side of Cuba are a mixed sort, some bigger, some less ; and so their flesh is of a mixed colour, some green, some dark, some yellowish. With these, Port Royal, in Jamaica, is kept constantly supplied by sloops that come hither with nets to take them. They carry them alive to Jamaica, where the turtles have wires made with stakes in the sea to pre serve them alive ; and the market is every day plentifully stored with turtle, it being the common food there, chiefly for the ordinary sort of people. There is another sort of green turtle in the South Seas, which are but small, yet pretty sweet ; these lie westward, on the coast of Mexico. One thing is very strange and re markable in these creatures ; that, at the breeding time, they leave for two or three months their common haunts where they feed most of the year, and resort to other places, only to lay their eggs. And it is not thought that they eat anything during this season ; so that both he's and she's grow very lean, but the he's to that degree that none will eat them. The most remarkable places that I did ever hear of for their breeding is at an island, in the West Indies, called Cayman, and the Isle of Ascencion, in the Western Ocean ; and when the breeding time is past there is none Doubtless they swim remaining. some hundreds of leagues to come to those two places. For it has been often observed that at Cayman , at the breeding time, there are found all those sorts of turtle before described. The South Keys of Cuba are above forty leagues from thence, which is the nearest place that these creatures can come from ; and it is most cer tain that there could not live so many there as come here in one season. Those that go to lay at Ascencion must needs travel much 1 Layers.
138 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE farther, for there is no land nearer it than 300 leagues. And it is certain that these creatures live always near the shore. In the South Sea, like wise, the Galapagos is the place where they live the biggest part of the year ; yet they go from thence at their season over to the main to lay their eggs ; which is 100 leagues, the nearest place. Although multitudes of these turtles go from their com mon places of feeding and abode to those laying places, yet they do not all go. And at the time whenthe turtle resort to these places to lay their eggs, they are accompanied with abundance of fish, especially sharks ; the places which the turtle then leave being at that time destitute of fish, which follow the turtle. When the she's go thus to their places to lay, the males accompany them, and never leave them till their return. Both male and female are fat [in] the beginning of the season ; but, before they return, the males, as I said, are so lean, that they are not fit to eat, but the females are good to the very last, yet not so fat as at beginning of the season . It is reported of these creatures, that they are nine days engendering, and in the water, the male on the female's back. It is observable that the male, while engendering, do not easily forsake their female ; for I have gone and taken hold of the male when engen dering, and a very bad striker may strike them then ; for the male is not shy at all, but the female, seeing a boat when they rise to blow, would make her escape, but that the male grasps her with his two fore fins and holds her fast. When they are thus coupled, it is best to strike the female first, then you are sure of the male also. These creatures are thought to live to a great age ; and, it is ob served by the Jamaica turtlers, that they are many years before they come to their full growth. The air ofthese islands is temperate enough, considering the clime. There is constantly a fresh sea breeze all day, and cooling refreshing winds in the night ; therefore the heat is not
ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. V. so violent here as in most places near the Equator. The time of the year for the rains is in November, Decem Then there is ber, and January. oftentimes excessive dark tempest uous weather mixed with much thunder and lightning. Sometimes before and after these months there are moderate refreshing showers ; but in May, June, July, and August, the We weather is always very fair. stayed at one of these islands, which lies under the Equator, but one night ; because our prizes could not get into an anchor. We refreshed ourselves very well, both with land and sea turtle : and the next day we sailed from thence. The next island of the Galapagos that we came to is but two leagues from this : it is rocky and barren like this ; it is about five or six leagues long, and four broad. We anchored in the afternoon, at the north side of the island, a quarter of a mile from the shore, in sixteen fathoms water. It is steep all round this island, and no anchoring, only at this place. As soon as we came to an anchor, we made a tent ashore for Captain Cooke who was sick. Here we found the sea-turtle lying ashore on the sands ; this is not customary in the West Indies. We turned them on their backs that they might not get away. The next day more came up ; when we found it to be their custom to lie in the sun : so we never took care to turn them afterwards, but sent ashore the cook every morn ing, who killed as many as served for the day. This custom we observed all the time we lay here, feeding some times on land-turtle, sometimes on sea-turtle, there being plenty ofeither sort. Captain Davis came hither again a second time ; and then he went to other islands on the west side of these. There he found such plenty of land-turtle, that he and his men ate nothing else for three months that he stayed there. They were so fat, that he saved sixty jars of oil out of those that he spent. This oil served instead of butter to eat with dough boys and dumplings in his return out of these seas. He found very con
1684.] DEATH OF CAPTAIN COOKE. 139 venient places to careen, and good are off at sea, right against the cape, channels between the islands ; and they appear as part of the cape ; but very good anchoring in many places. being near the shore, either to the There he found also plenty of brooks eastward or westward of the cape, of good fresh water, and firewood they appear like two ships under sail ênough ; there being plenty of trees at first view, but coming nearer they fit for many uses. Captain Harris, are like two high towers, they being one that we shall speak of hereafter, small, high, and steep on all sides, came hither likewise, and found some and they are about half-a-mile from islands that had plenty of mammee the cape. This cape is in Lat. 9° trees, and pretty large rivers. The 56'. It is about the height of Beachy sea about these islands is plentifully Head in England, on the coast of Sus stored with fish, such as are at Juan sex. It is a full point, with steep Fernandez. They are both large and rocks to the sea. The top of it is fat, and as plentiful here as at Juan flat and even for about a mile ; then Fernandez ; here are particularly it gradually falls away on each side abundance of sharks. These Isles of with a gentle descent. It appears the Galapagos have plenty of salt. very pleasant, being covered with We stayed here but twelve days : in great lofty trees. From the cape on which time we put ashore 5000 packs the NW. side, the land runs in NE. of flour, for a reserve, if we should for about four leagues, making a small have occasion of any before we left bay called by the Spaniards Caldera. these seas . Here one of our Indian From the bottom of this bay it is but prisoners informed us that he was fourteen or fifteen leagues to the Lake born at Realejo, and that he would of Nicaragua, on the North Sea coast : engage to carry us thither. He being the way between is somewhat moun examined of the strength and riches tainous, but mostly savannah. Cap of it, satisfied the company so well. tain Cooke, who was taken sick at that they were resolved to go thither. Juan Fernandez, continued so till we Having thus concluded, the 12th came within two or three leagues of of June, we sailed from hence, design Cape Blanco, and then died of a ing to touch at the Island of Cocos, sudden, though he seemed that morn as well to put ashore some flour there, ing to be as likely to live as he had as to see the island, because it was in been some weeks before ; but it is our way to Realejo. [ But] despairing usual with sick men coming from the as the winds were, to find the Island sea, where they have nothing but the of Cocos, we steered over to the main. sea air, to die off as soon as ever they The Island of Cocos is so named by come within view of the land. About the Spaniards, because there are four hours after, we all came to an abundance of cocoa-nut trees grow anchor (namely, the ship that I was ing on it. They are not only in one in, Captain Eaton, and the great meal or two places, but grow in great prize), a league within the cape, right groves all round the island, by the against [a] brook of fresh water, in sea. This is an uninhabited island ; fourteen fathoms, clean hard sand. it is seven or eight leagues round, and Presently after we came to an anchor, pretty high in the middle, where it is Captain Cooke was carried ashore to destitute of trees, but looks very green be buried ; twelve men carried their and pleasant, with an herb called by arms to guard those that were ordered the Spaniards " gramadel. " It is to dig the grave ; for although we low land by the sea-side. We had saw no appearance of inhabitants, yet very fair weather and small winds we did not know but the country in this voyage from the Galapagos, might be thickly inhabited. And and at the beginning of July we fell before Captain Cooke was interred, in with Cape Blanco, on the main of three Spanish Indians came to the Mexico. This is so called from two place where our men were digging the white rocks lying off it. When we grave, and demanded what they were,
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. V. 140 and whence they came ? To whom the Governor of Panama's advice, lest our men answered, they came from any men at other times wanting such Lima and were bound to Realejo, but necessaries as that place afforded that the captain of one of the ships, might again be supplied there. These dying at sea, obliged them to come Spanish Indians told us likewise that into this place to give him Christian they were sent to the place where they burial. The three Spanish Indians, were taken, in order to view our who were very shy at first, began to ships, as fearing these were those be more bold, and drawing nearer, mentioned by the President of asked many silly questions, and our Panama. It being demanded of them men did not stick to soothe them up to give an account of the estate and with as many falsehoods, purposely riches of the country, they said, that to draw them into their clutches. the inhabitants were mostly husband Our men often laughed at their men, who were employed either in temerity, and asked them if they planting and manuring of corn, or never saw any Spaniards before ? chiefly about cattle ; they having They told them, that they themselves large savannahs, which were well were Spaniards, and that they lived stored with bulls, cows, and horses : among Spaniards, and that although that by the sea-side in some places theywere bornthere, yet they had never there grew some red wood useful in seen three ships there before. Our dyeing ; of this they said there was men told them, that neither now little profit made, because they were might they have seen so many, if it forced to send it to the Lake of Nicar had not been on an urgent occasion. agua, which runs into the North At length they drilled them by dis Seas : that they sent thither also course so near, that our men laid hold great quantities of bull and cow on all three at once ; but before Cap hides, and brought thence in exchange tain Cooke was buried, one of them European commodities : as hats, linen, made his escape ; the other two were and woollen, wherewith they clothed brought offaboard our ship. Captain themselves ; that the flesh of the Eaton immediately came aboard, and cattle turned to no other profit than examined them ; they confessed they sustenance for their families ; as for came purposely to view our ship, and butter and cheese, they made but if possible to inform themselves what little in those parts. we were ; for the President of Panama After they had given this relation, not long before sent a letter of advice they told us, that if we wanted pro to Nicoya, informing the magistrates vision, there was a beef estantion,2 or thereof that some enemies were come farm of bulls or cows, about three into these seas, and that therefore it miles off, where we might kill what behoved them to be careful of them we pleased. This was welcome news, selves. Nicoya is a small Mulatta for we had no sort of flesh since we town about twelve or thirteen leagues left the Galapagos ; therefore twenty east from hence, standing on the four of us immediately entered into banks of a river of that name. It is two boats, taking one of these Spanish a place very fit for building ships, Indians with us for a pilot, and went therefore most of the inhabitants are ashore about a league from the ship. carpenters, who are commonly em There we hauled up our boats dry, ployed in building new or repairing and marched all away, following our old ships. It was here that Captain guide, who soon brought us to some Sharpe, just after I left him, in the houses, and a large pen for cattle. year 1681, got carpenters to fix his This pen stood in a large savannah, ship before he returned for England ; about two miles from our boats and for that reason it behoved the there were a great many fat bulls and Spaniards to be careful, according to 66 2 Spanish, ' Estancia, " a mansion 1 Enticed. or farm , or place of store .
1684. ] SURROUNDED BY cows feeding in the savannahs. Some of us would have killed three or four to carry on board ; but others opposed it, and said it was better to stay all night, and in the morning drive the cattle into the pen, and then kill twenty or thirty, or as many as we pleased. I was minded to return aboard, and endeavoured to persuade them all to go with me, but some would not ; therefore I returned with twelve, which was half, and left the other twelve be hind. At this place I saw three or four tons of the red wood, which I take to be that sort of wood called in Jamaica bloodwood or Ni caragua wood. We who returned aboard met no one to oppose us, and the next day we expected our consorts that we left ashore, but none came ; therefore at four o'clock in the afternoon ten men went in our canoe to see what was become of them. When they came to the bay where we landed to go to the estantion, they found our men all on a small rock, half a mile from the shore, standing in the water up to their waists. These men had slept ashore in the house, and turned out betimes in the morn ing to pen the cattle : two or three went one way, and as many another way, to get the cattle to the pen ; and others stood at the pen to drive them in. When they were thus scattered, about forty or fifty armed Spaniards came in among them. Our men immediately called to each other, and drew together in a body before the Spaniards could attack them, and marched to their boat, which was hauled up dry on the sand ; but when they came to the sandy bay they found their boat all in flames. This was a very unpleasing sight, for they knew not how to get aboard, unless they marched by land to the place where Captain Cooke was buried, which was near a league. The great est part of the way was thick woods, where the Spaniards might easily lay in ambush for them, at which they are very expert. On the other side, the Spaniards now thought them secure ; and therefore came to them
141 THE SPANIARDS. and asked them if they would be pleased to walk to their plantations, with many other such flouts ; but our men answered never a word. It was about half ebb when one of our men took notice of a rock a good dis tance from the shore, just appearing above water ; he showed it to his con sorts and told them it would be a good castle for them if they could get thither. They all wished them selves there ; for the Spaniards, who lay as yet at a good distance from them behind the bushes, as secure of their prey, began to whistle now and then a shot among them. Having therefore well considered the place, together with the danger they were in, they proposed to send one of the tallest men to try if the sea between them and the rock were fordable. This counsel they presently put in execution, and found it according to their desire. So they all marched over to the rock, where they remained till the canoe came to them ; which was about seven hours. It was the latter part of the ebb when they first went over, and then the rock was dry ; but when the tide of flood re turned again the rock was covered , and the water still flowing ; so that if our canoe had stayed but one hour longer they might have been in as great danger of their lives from the sea as before from the Spaniards ; for the tide rises here about eight feet. The Spaniards remained on the shore, expecting to see them destroyed, but never came from behind the bushes where they first planted themselves ; they having not above three or four hand-guns, the rest of them being armed with lances. The Spaniards in these parts are very expert in heaving or darting the lance, with which, upon occasion, they will do great feats, especially in ambuscades ; and by their good will they care not for fighting otherwise, but content themselves with standing aloof, threatening and calling names, at which they are as expert as at the other ; so that if their tongues be quiet, we always take it for granted they have laid some ambush. Before
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. V. 142 night our canoe came aboard, and in our topsails, and hauled up our brought our men all safe. courses, intending to go with our The day before we went from hence, canoes into the harbour in the night. Mr Edward Davis, the company's In the evening we had a very hard Quarter-master, was made Captain tornado out of the NE. , with much by consent of all the company ; for it thunder, lightning, and rain . The was his place by succession. The violence of the wind did not last 20th day of July we sailed from this long, yet it was 11 o'clock at night Bay of Caldera, with Captain Eaton, before we got out our canoes, and and our prize which we brought from then it was quite calm. We rowed the Galapagos, in company, directing in directly for the shore, and thought course for Realejo. The wind was at to have reached it before day ; but it N., which, although but an ordinary was 9 o'clock in the morning before wind, yet carried us in three days we got into the harbour. When we abreast of our intended port. Realejo came within a league of the Island of is the most remarkable land on all Realejo, that makes the harbour, we this coast ; for there is a high-peaked saw a house on it ; and coming nearer burning mountain, called by the we saw two or three men, who stood Spaniards Volcano Viejo, or the Old and looked on us till we came within Volcano. The volcano may be easily half-a-mile of the island, then they known, because there is not any other went into their canoe, which lay on so high a mountain near it, neither is the inside of the island, and rowed there any that appears in the like towards the main ; but we overtook form all along the coast ; besides it them before they got over, and brought smokes all the day, and in the night them back again to the island. There it sometimes sends forth flames of was a horseman right against us on fire. This mountain may be seen the main when we took the canoe, twenty leagues. Being within three who immediately rode away towards leagues of the harbour, the entrance the town as fast as he could. The into it may be seen. There is a small rest of our canoes rode heavily, and flat low island which makes the har did not come to the island till 12 bour. This harbour is capable of re o'clock ; therefore we were forced to ceiving 200 sail of ships. The best stay for them. Before they came, riding is near the main, where there we examined the prisoners, who told is seven or eight fathoms water ; us that they were set there to watch, clean hard sand. Realejo town is two for the Governor of Realejo received leagues from hence, and there are two a letter about a month before, where creeks that run towards it ; the wes in he was advised of some enemies ternmost comes near the back-side of come into the sea, and therefore ad the town, the other runs up to the monished to be careful ; that imme town ; but neither ships nor barks diately thereupon the Governor had can go so far. These creeks are very caused a house to be built on this narrow, and the land on each side island, and ordered four men to be drowned, and full of red mangrove continually there to watch night and trees. About a mile and a half below day ; and if they saw any ship com the town, on the banks of the east ing thither, they were to give notice creek, the Spaniards had cast up a of it. They said they did not expect strong breastwork ; it was likewise to see boats or canoes, but looked out reported they had another on the for a ship. At first they took us in west creek, both so advantageously our advanced canoe to be some men placed that ten men might with ease that had been cast away and lost our ship ; till, seeing three or four canoes keep 200 men from landing. We were now in sight of the vol more, they began to suspect what we cano, being, by estimation, seven or were. They told us likewise, that the eight leagues from the shore ; and horseman we saw did come to them the mountain bearing NE., we took every morning, and that in less than
THE ATTACK ON REALEJO GIVEN UP. 143 1684. ] an hour's time he could be at the la ; and they are two miles asunder.2 town. When Captain Eaton and his There are a great many more canoes came ashore, we told them islands in this Bay, but none inhabited what had happened. It was now as these. There is one pretty large three hours since the horseman rode island, belonging to a nunnery, as away, and we could not expect to get the Indians told us ; this was stocked to the town in less than two hours ; with bulls and cows. Three or four in which time the Governor, having Indians lived there to look after notice of our coming, might be pro the cattle, for the sake of which we vided to receive us at his breastworks ; often frequented this island while we therefore we thought it best to defer lay in the bay. They are all low this design till another time. Here islands, except Amapalla and Man we stayed till 4 o'clock in the after gera. There are two channels to noon ; then our ships being come come into this gulf ; one between within a league of the shore, we all Point Casivina and Mangera, the went on board, and steered for the other between Mangera and Ama Gulf of Amapalla, intending there to palla ; the latter is the best. It was into this gulf that Captain careen our ships. The 26th of July, Captain Eaton Davis was gone with the two canoes, with to consult to endeavour for a prisoner, to gain came aboard our ship Captain Davis how to get some In intelligence, if possible, before our dians to assist us in careening. It ships came in. He came the first was concluded, that when we came night to Mangera, but for want of a near the Gulf, Captain Davis should pilot did not know where to look for take two canoes, well manned, and the town. In the morning he found go before, and Captain Eaton should a great many canoes hauled up on the stay aboard. According to this bay ; and from that bay found a path agreement, Captain Davis went away which led him and his company to for the Gulf the next day. The Gulf the town. The Indians saw our ships of Amapalla¹ is a great arm of the in the evening coming towards the sea, running eight or ten leagues into island, and being before informed of the country. It is bounded on the S. enemies in the sea, they kept scouts side of its entrance with Point Casi out all night for fear ; who seeing vina, and on the NW. side with St Captain Davis coming, ran into the Michael's Mount. Both these places town, and alarmed all the people. are very remarkable. Point Casivina When Captain Davis came thither, is in Lat. 12° 40′ N. It is a high they all ran into the woods. The round point, which at sea appears Friar happened to be there at this like an island, because the land with time ; who, being unable to ramble in it is very low. St Michael's Mount 2 is a very high peaked hill, not very Mangera is described as a high steep : the land at the foot of it on round island, about two leagues in at compass, and appearing from the sea the SE. side is low and even for least a mile. From this low land the like a tall grove. There is mention made of one town, about the middle side. Gulf of Amapalla enters on that Between this low land and Point of the island. Amapalla is much Casivina are two considerable high larger than Mangera, with two towns islands ; the southernmost is called on it. The Indians of both places Mangera, the other is called Amapal cultivate maize, a few plantains, and the hog plum. The towns were gov 1 Marked in the modern maps as erned from St Michael's, to which the Gulf of Fonseca. The southern they paid tribute in maize. There headland is Cape Cosiguina, called was but one friar or padre living Casivina by Dampier ; the northern, amongst them, who exacted a tenth which he called St Michael's Mount, from the natives, and who was the only white man on the island. is Cape Candadillo.
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. V. 144 into the woods, fell into Captain | able report ; therefore he desired them Davis's hands ; there were two Indian to come up to their town. Captain boys with him who were likewise Davis and his men immediately taken. Captain Davis went only to ascended the hill, the Friar going get a prisoner, therefore was well before ; and they were received with a satisfied with the Friar, and imme- great deal of affection by the Indians. diately came down to the sea-side. The Cacique and Secretary embraced He went from thence to the Island of Captain Davis ; and the other Indians Amapalla, carrying the Friar and the received his men with the like cere two Indian boys with him. These mony. were his pilots to conduct him to the These salutations being ended, landing-place, where they arrived they all marched towards the church, about noon. They made no stay for that is the place of all public here, but left three or four men to meetings, and all plays and pastimes look after the canoes, and Captain are acted there also ; therefore in the Davis, with the rest, marched to the churches belonging to Indian_towns town, taking the Friar with them. they have all sorts of vizards and The town, as is before noted, is about strange antic dresses both for men and a mile from the landing-place, stand women, and abundance of musical The ing in a plain on the top of a hill, hautboys and strumstrums. having a very steep ascent to go to it. strumstrum is made somewhat like All the Indians stood on the top of a cittern ; most of those that the the hill, waiting Captain Davis's com Indians use are made of a large gourd, ing. The Secretary, mentioned be cut in the midst, and a thin board fore, had no great kindness for the laid over the hollow, which is fast Spaniards. It was he that persuaded ened to the sides. This serves for the Indians to wait Captain Davis's the belly, over which the strings are coming; for they were all running placed. The nights before any holi into the woods ; but he told them, days, or the nights ensuing, are the that if any of the Spaniards' enemies times when they all meet to make came thither, it was not to hurt merry. Their mirth consists in sing them, but the Spaniards, whose ing, dancing, and sporting in those slaves they were ; and that their antic habits, and using as many antic poverty would protect them. This gestures . If the moon shine they man, with the Cacique, stood more use but few torches ; if not, the forward than the rest, at the bank of church is full of light. They meet the hill, when Captain Davis with at these times all sorts of both sexes. his company appeared beneath. They All the Indians that I have been called out therefore in Spanish, de acquainted with who are under the manding of our men what they were, Spaniards seem to be more melancholy and whence they came ? To whom than other Indians that are free ; and Captain Davis and his men replied, at these public meetings, when they they were Biscayers, and were sent are in the greatest oftheir jollity, their thither by the King of Spain to clear mirth seems to be rather forced than those seas from enemies ; that their real. Their songs are very melancholy ships were coming into the gulf to and doleful, so is their music ; but careen, and that they came thither whether it be natural to the Indians before the ships to seek a convenient to be thus melancholy, or the effect place for it, as also to desire the of their slavery, I am not certain. Indians' assistance. The Secretary, But I have always been prone to be who, as I said before, was the only lieve that they are then only condol man that could speak Spanish, told ing their misfortunes, the loss of their them that they were welcome, for he country and liberties, which, although had a great respect for any Old Spain those that are now living do not men, especially for the Biscayers, of know nor remember what it was to be whom he had heard a very honour free, yet there seems to be a deep
1684. ] FAILURE AT AMAPALLA. 145 impression in their thoughts of the of Englishmen and Frenchmen came slavery which the Spaniards have afterwards and stayed a great while, brought them under, increased pro and at last landed on the main, and bably by some traditions of their marched overland to the Cape River, ancient freedom. Captain Davis in which disembogues into the North tended, when they were all in the Seas near Cape Gracias a Dios, and is church, to shut the doors and then therefore called the Cape River.¹ Near make a bargain with them, letting the head of this river they made bark them know what he was, and so draw logs (which I shall describe in the them afterwards by fair means to our next Chapter), and so went into the assistance, the Friar being with him, North Seas. This was the way that who had also promised to engage Captain Sharpe had proposed to go if them to it. But before they were all he had been put to it, for this way in the church, one of Captain Davis's was partly known to Privateers bythe men pushed one of the Indians, to discovery that was made into the hasten him into the church. The country about thirty years since by a Indian immediately ran away, and all party of Englishmen that went up that the rest, taking the alarm, sprang river in canoes, about as far as the out of the church like deer ; it was place where these Frenchmen made hard to say which was first ; and their bark-logs ; there they landed Captain Davis, who knew nothing of and marched to a town called Segovia what happened, was left in the church in the country. They were near a only with the Friar. When they were month getting up the river, for there all fled, Captain Davis's men fired, are many cataracts where they were and killed the Secretary ; and thus often forced to leave the river and our hopes perished by the indiscretion haul their canoes ashore over the of one foolish fellow. land till they were past the cataracts, In the afternoon the ships came into and then launch their canoes again the gulf between Point Casivina and into the river. I have discoursed Mangera, andanchored nearthe Island | [with ] several men that were in that of Amapalla, on the E. side, in ten expedition, and if I mistake not, Cap fathoms water, clean hard sand. In tain Sharpe was one of them. But the evening Captain Davis and his to return to our voyage in hand ; company came aboard, and brought when both our ships were clean, and the Friar with them, who told Cap our water filled, Captain Davis and tain Davis, that if the Secretary had Captain Eaton broke off consortships. not been killed he could have sent Captain Eaton took aboard of his him a letter by one of the Indians ships 400 packs of flour, and sailed that was taken at Mangera, and per out of the gulf the 2d of September. suaded him to come to us ; but now the only way was to send one of those Indians to seek the Cacique, and [he] himself would instruct him what to CHAPTER VI. say, and did not question but the Cacique would come on his word. THE 3d of September 1684, we The next day we sent ashore one of sent the Friar ashore, and left the the Indians, who before night return Indians in possession of the prize ed with the Cacique and six other which we brought in hither, though Indians, who remained with us all she was still half-laden with flour ; the time that we stayed here. These and we sailed out with the land-wind, Indians did us good service, especi passing between Amapalla and Man ally in piloting us to an island, where gera. When we were a league out, we killed beef whenever we wanted ; and for this their service we satisfied 1 Variously called in modern maps them to their hearts' content. It was the Vanquez, or Yanks, or Tints, or at this Island of Amapallathat a party Segovia, or Coco River. K
146 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VI. we saw a canoe coming with sail and count of this voyage in the First oars after us, therefore we shortened Chapter, having now compassed in sail and stayed for her. She was a the whole continent of South America. canoe sent by the Governor of St The Island of Plata, as some report, Michael's town to our Captain, desir was so named by the Spaniards after ing him not to carry away the Friar. Sir Francis Drake took the Cacafue The messenger being told that the go, a ship chiefly laden with plate, Friar was set ashore again at Ama which they say he brought hither and palla, he returned with joy, and we divided it here with his men. It is made sail again, having the wind at about four miles long and a mile and WNW. We steered towards the coast a half broad, and of a good height. It of Peru. We had tornadoes every day is bounded with high steep cliffs clear till we made Cape San Francisco, round, only at one place on the east which from June to November are side. The top of it is flat and even, very common on these coasts ; and we the soil sandy and dry ; the trees it had with the tornadoes very much produces are but small-bodied, low, thunder, lightning, and rain. When and grow thin ; and there are only the tornadoes were over, the wind, three or four sorts of trees, all un which while they lasted was most known to us. I observed they were from the SE., came about again to much overgrown with long moss. the W., and never failed us till we There is good grass, especially in the were in sight of Cape San Francisco. beginning of the year. There is no This cape is in Lat. 1° N.; it is a high water on this island, but at one place bluff or full point of land, clothed on the east side close by the sea ; with tall great trees. The land in there it drills2 slowly down from the the country within this cape is very rocks, where it may be received into high, and the mountains commonly vessels. There were plenty of goats, appear very black. When we came but they are now all destroyed. There in with this cape we overtook Captain is no other sort of land animal that I Eaton plying under the shore ; he in did ever see ; there are plenty of boo his passage from Amapalla, while he bies and man-of-war birds. At this was on that coast, met with such ter island are plenty of those small sea rible tornadoes of thunder and light turtle spoken of in my last Chapter. ning that, as he and all his men The 21st, Captain Eaton came to related, they had never met with the an anchor by us; he was very willing like in any place. They were very to have consorted with us again, but much affrighted by them, the air Captain Davis's men were so unrea smelling very much of sulphur, and sonable that they would not allow they apprehending themselves [to be] Captain Eaton's men an equal share in great danger of being burnt by the with them in what they got; there lightning. He touched at the island fore Captain Eaton stayed there but one of Cocos, and put ashore 200 packs night, and the next day sailed from of flour there, and loaded his boat hence, steering away to the south with cocoa-nuts, and took in fresh ward. We stayed no longer than the water. In the evening we separated day ensuing, and then we sailed to again from Captain Eaton, for he ward Point Santa Elena, intending stood off to sea, and we plied up under there to land some men purposely to the shore, making our best advantage get prisoners for intelligence. both of sea and land winds. Point Santa Elena bears S. from The 20th of September we came to the Island of Plata, and anchored in 1 The capture of this rich prize is sixteen fathoms. We had very good narrated in Drake's Voyage. See weather from the time that we fell page 44. in with Cape San Francisco, and were Penetrates, trickles. Bishop Tay now fallen in again with the same lor uses the word " drill " to signify places from whence I begin the ac a small water-course.
147 1634.3 MANTA, AN INDIAN VILLAGE, TAKEN. the Island of Plata. It lies in Lat. is a very fine church, adorned with a 2° 15' S. The point is pretty high, great deal of carved work. It was flat, and even at top ; overgrown with formerly a habitation of Spaniards, many great thistles but no sort of but they are all removed from hence tree ; at a distance it appears like an now. The land about it is dry and island because the land within it is sandy, bearing only a few shrubby very low. This point strikes out west trees. These Indians plant no man into the sea, making a pretty large ner of grain or root, but are supplied bay on the north side. . When from other places, and commonly keep we were abreast of this point we sent a stock of provision to relieve ships away our canoes in the night to take that want, for this is the first settle the Indian village. They landed in ment that ships can touch at which the morning betimes close by the come from Panama bound to Lima, town, and took some prisoners. They or any other port in Peru. The land, took likewise a small bark which the being dry and sandy, is not fit to Indians had set on fire, but our men produce crops of maize, which is the quenched it, and took the Indian reason they plant none. There is a that did it, who being asked where spring of good water between the vil fore he set the bark on fire, said, that lage and the sea. On the back of the there was an order from the Viceroy town, a pretty way up in the country, lately set out commanding all seamen there is a very high mountain, tower to burn their vessels if attacked by ing up like a sugar-loaf, called Monte us, and betake themselves to their Christo. It is a very good sea mark, boats. There was another bark in a for there is none like it on all the small cove a mile from the village ; coast. The body ofthismountain bears thither our men went, thinking to due S. from Manta.¹ From Manta to take her, but the seamen that were Cape San Lorenzo the land is plain aboard set her in flames and fled. In and even, of an indifferent height. As soon as ever the dayappeared, our the evening, our men came aboard, and brought the small bark with men landed, and marched towards the them, the fire of which they had village, which was about a mile and quenched ; and then we returned a half from their landing-place. Some again towards Plata, where we ar of the Indians who were stirring saw rived the 26th of September. them coming, and alarmed their In the evening we sent out some neighbours ; so that all that were men in our bark lately taken and able got away. They took only two canoes, to an Indian village called old women, who both said, that it Manta, two or three leagues to the was reported that a great many ene W. of Cape San Lorenzo, hopingthere mies were come overland through the to get other prisoners, for we could country of Darien into the South not learn from those we took at Point Seas, and that they were at present Santa Elena the reason why the Vice in canoes and periagoes ; and that roy should give such orders to burn the Viceroy upon this news, had set the ships. They had a fresh sea out the fore-mentioned order forburn breeze till 12 o'clock at night, and ing their own ships. Our men found then it proved calm, wherefore they no sort of provision here ; the Vice rowed away with their canoes as near roy having likewise sent orders to all to the town as they thought conven seaports to keep no provision, but ient, and lay still till day. Manta is just to supply themselves. These a small Indian village on the main, distant from the Island of Plata seven 1 It has been conjectured that or eight leagues . It stands so advan Chimberazo is here meant, but that tageously to be seen, being built on mountain lies east by south, and not a small ascent, that it makes a very south, from Manta, and probably fair prospect to the sea, yet but a few Dampier refers to some smaller emi poor scattering Irdian houses. There nence nearer the coast.
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VI. 148 women also said, that the Manta bay of Guayaquil ; she came from the Indians were sent over to the Island town of that name, and was bound of Plata to destroy all the goats to Lima. The commander of this there, which they performed about a prize said, that it was generally re month ago. With this news our men ported and believed at Guayaquil, returned again, and arrived at Plata that the Viceroy was fitting out ten the next day. We lay still at the sail of frigates to drive us out of the Island of Plata, being not resolved Seas. This news made our unsettled what to do, till the 2d of October ; crew wish that they had been per and then Captain Swan, in the Cygnet suaded to accept of Captain Eaton's of London, arrived there. He was company on reasonable terms. Cap fitted out by very eminent merchants tain Davis and Captain Swan had of that city, on a design only to trade some discourse concerning Captain with the Spaniards or Indians, having Eaton ; they at last concluded to a very considerable cargo well sorted send our small bark towards the coast for these parts of the world ; but meet of Lima, as far as the Island of Lobos, ing with divers disappointments, and to seek Captain Eaton. This being being out of hopes to obtain a trade approved by all hands, she was in these seas, his men forced him to cleaned the next day, and sent away, entertain a company of Privateers manned with twenty men, ten of which he met with near Nicoya, a Captain Davis's, and ten of Swan's town whither he was going to seek a men ; and Captain Swan wrote a trade ; and these Privateers were letter directed to Captain Eaton, de bound thither in boats to get a ship. siring his company ; and the Isle of These were the men that we had Plata was appointed for the general heard of at Manta ; they came over rendezvous. When this bark was land, under the command of Captain gone, we turned another bark which Peter Harris, nephew to that Cap we had into a fireship, having six or tain Harris who was killed before seven carpenters, who soon fixed her ; Panama. Captain Swan was still and while the carpenters were at work commander of his own ship, and about the fireship, we scrubbed and Captain Harris commanded a small cleaned our men-of-war, as well as bark under Captain Swan. There time and place would permit. The was much joy on all sides when they 19th of October we finished our arrived ; and immediately hereupon, business, and the 20th we sailed to Captain Davis and Captain Swan wards the Island of Lobos, where our consorted, wishing for Captain Eaton bark was ordered to stay for us, or again. Our little bark, which was meet us again at Plata. We had but taken at Santa Elena, was immedi little wind, therefore it was the 23d ately sent out to cruise while the before we passed by Point Santa ships were fitting ; for Captain Swan's Elena. The 25th we crossed over the ship, being full of goods, was not fit Bay of Guayaquil. The 30th we to entertain his new guests, till the doubled Cape Blanco. This cape is goods were disposed of; therefore he, in Lat. 3° 45'. It is counted the by the consent of the supercargoes, worst cape in all the South Seas to got up all his goods on deck, and sold double, passing to the southward. to any one that would buy, upon trust. This cape is of an indifferent height. The rest was thrown overboard into It is fenced with white rocks to the the sea, except fine goods, as silks, sea ; for which reason, I believe, it muslins, stockings, &c. , and except has this name." The land in the the iron, whereof he had a good quan country seems to be full of high, tity, both wrought and in bars ; this steep, rugged, and barren rocks. The 2d of November we got as high was saved for ballast. The third day after our bark was sent to cruise, she as Payta. We lay about six leagues brought in a prize of 400 tons, laden 1 Cabo Blanco- White Cape. with timber ; they took her in the
149 THE TOWN OF PAYTA. 1684. ] off shore all the day, that the Span | no rain that I could ever observe or iards might not see us ; and in the hear of, nor any green thing growing evening sent our canoes ashore to in the mountains, neither yet in the take it, manned with 110 men. valleys, except where here and there Payta is a small Spanish seaport watered with a few small rivers dis town, in Lat. 5° 15' S. It is built persed up and down. So that the on the sand, close by the sea, in a northernmost parts of this tract of nook, elbow, or small bay, under a land are supplied with timber from pretty high hill. There are not Guayaquil, Galleo, Tumaco, and above seventy-five or eighty houses, other places that are watered with and two churches. The houses are rains, where there is plenty of all but low and ill-built. The building sorts of timber. In the south parts in this country of Peru is much alike as about Huasco and Coquimbo, they on all the sea- coast. The walls are fetch their timber from the Island of built of bricks made with earth and Chiloe, or other places thereabouts. straw kneaded together ; they are The walls of churches and rich men's about three feet long, two feet broad, houses are whitened with lime both and a footand a half thick ; they never within and without ; and the doors burn them, but lay them a long time and posts are very large, and adorned in the sun to dry before they are with carved work, and the beams also used in building. In some places in the churches ; the insides of the they have no roofs, only poles laid houses are hung round with rich em across from the side walls, and broidered or painted cloths. They covered with mats ; and then those have likewise abundance of fine pic walls are carried up to a considerable tures, which add no small ornament height. But where they build roofs to their houses. These, I suppose, upon their houses, the walls are not they have from Old Spain. But the made so high, as I said before. The houses of Payta are none of them so houses in general all over this king richly furnished. The churches were dom are but meanly built : one chief large, and fairly carved. At one end reason, with the common people of the town there was a small fort, especially, is the want of materials to close by the sea, but no great guns in build withal ; for, however it be more it. This fort, only with muskets, within land, yet here is neither stone will command all the bay, so as to nor timber to build with, nor any hinder any boats from landing. There materials but such brick as I have is another fort on the top of the hill, described ; and even the stone which just over the town, which commands they have in some places is so brittle both it and the lower fort. There is that you may rub it into sand with neither wood nor water to be had your fingers. Another reason why here. They fetch their water from they build so meanly is, because it an Indian town called Colan, about never rains ; therefore they only en two leagues NNE. from Payta ; for at deavour to fence themselves from the Colan there is a small river of fresh sun. Yet their walls, which are built water which runs out into the sea, but with an ordinary sort of brick in from whence ships that touch at Payta comparison with what is made in are supplied with water and other other parts of the world, continue a refreshments, as fowls, hogs, plan long time as firm as when first made, tains, yams, and maize : Payta being having never any winds nor rains to destitute of all these things, only as rot, moulder, or shake them. How they fetch them from Colan as they ever, the richer sort have timber, have occasion. The Indians of Colan are all fisher which they make use of in building ; but it is brought from other places. men. They go out to sea and fish on This dry country commences to the bark-logs.1 Bark-logs are made of northward, from about Cape Blanco 1 This title has been supposed to to Coquimbo, in about 30° Ŝ. , having
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VI. 150 many round logs of wood, in the man- | Panama dispose of the goods and ner of a raft, and very different, accord- bottom together, getting a passage ing to the use that they are designed back again for themselves in some for, or the humour of the people that ship or boat bound to the port they make them, or the matter that they came from ; and there they make a are made of. If they are made for new bark-log for their next cargo. fishing, then they are only three or The smaller sort of bark-logs, de four logs of light wood, of seven or scribed before, which lie flat on the eight feet long, placed by the side of water, and are used for fishing or each other, pinned fast together with carrying water to ships or the like wooden pins, and bound hard with (half a ton or a ton at a time), are withes. The logs are so placed that the more governable than the other, middlemost are longer than those by though they have masts and sails too. the sides, especially at the head or fore With these they go out at night by part, which grows narrower gradually the help of the land-wind, which is into an angle or point, better to cut seldom wanting on this coast, and through the water. Others are made return back in the daytime with the to carry goods. The bottom of these sea-wind. This sort of floats are used is made of twenty or thirty great in many places both in the East and trees, of about twenty, thirty, or West Indies. On the coast of Coro forty feet long, fastened as the other, mandel in the East Indies they call These are but side to side, and so shaped. On the them Catamarans. top of these they place another shorter one log, or two sometimes, of a sort row of trees across them, pinned fast of light wood, and are made without to each other, and then pinned to the sail or rudder, and so small that they undermost row. This double row of carry but one man, whose legs and planks makes the bottom of the float. breech are always in the water ; and They always go before the wind, he manages his log with a paddle, being unable to ply against it, and appearing at a distance like a man therefore are fit only for these seas sitting on a fish's back. November the 3d, at 6 o'clock in where the wind is always in a man ner the same, not varying above a the morning, our men landed about point or two all the way from Lima four miles to the south of the town , till such time as they come into the and took some prisoners that were Bay of Panama ; and even there they sent thither to watch for fear of us; meet with no great sea, but sometimes and these prisoners said, that the northerly winds ; and then they lower Governor of Piura came with 100 their sails, and drive before it, wait armed men to Payta the night before, ing a change. All their care then purposely to oppose our landing there is only to keep off from shore, for if we should attempt it. Our men they are so made that they cannot marched directly to the fort on the sink at sea. These rafts carry sixty hill, and took it without the loss of or seventy tons of goods and upwards. one man. Hereupou the Governor of Their cargo is chiefly wine, oil, flour, Piura with all his men, and the in sugar, Quito cloth, soap, goat-skins habitants of the town, ran away as dressed, &c. The float is managed fast as they could. Then our men usually by three or four men, who, entered the town, and found it being unable to return with it against emptied both of money and goods ; the trade-wind, when they come to there was not so much as a meal of victuals left for them . The prisoners 27 be a mistranslation of " barcolongo ' told us a ship had been here a little (see Note 1, p. 107) . But the descrip before and burnt a great ship in the tion which follows shows plainly road, but did not land their men ; enough that the word means just and that here they put ashore all what it says- that is, barks of log or their prisoners and pilots. We knew log- barks. this must be Captain Eaton's ship
THE BURNING OF PAYTA. 151 1684. ] which had done this ; and by these | tasted any flesh in a great while be circumstances we supposed he was fore ; therefore some of us did eat gone to the East Indies, it being very heartily. Captain Swan, to en always designed by him. The pri courage his men to eat this coarse soners told us also, that since Captain flesh, would commend it for extra Eaton was here, a small bark had ordinary good food, comparing the been off the harbour and taken a pair seal to roasting pig, the boobies to of bark-logs a-fishing, and made the hens, and the penguins to ducks. fishermen bring aboard twenty or This he did to train them to live con. thirty jars of fresh water. This we tentedly on coarse meat, not knowing supposed was our bark that was sent but we might be forced to make use to Lobos to seek Captain Eaton. In of such food before we departed out of the evening we came in with our these seas ; for it is generally seen ships, and anchored before the town among Privateers that nothing em in ten fathoms water, near a mile boldens them sooner to mutiny than from the shore. Here we stayed till want, which we could not well suffer the 6th day, in hopes to get a ransom in a place where there are such quan for the town. Our Captains demand tities of these animals to be had, if ed 300 packs of flour, 3000 lbs. of men could be persuaded to be content sugar, twenty-five jars of wine, and ed with them. [Dampier now sailed from Lobos de 1000 jars of water to be brought off to us ; but we got nothing of it. There Tierra to Lobos de la Mar on the 19th. fore Captain Swan ordered the town On the 21st he sent out his Mosquito to be fired, which was presently done. strikers for turtle, which they brought On the Then all our men came aboard, and in, in great abundance. Captain Swan ordered the bark which evening of the 26th, a suspicious Captain Harris commanded, to be looking bark was observed about three burnt, because she did not sail well. leagues NNW. from the island. The At night, when the land-wind came next morning she stood off to sea, off, we sailed from hence towards which they allowed her to do without Lobos. The 10th, in the evening we giving chase. On the 28th day the saw a sail, bearing NW. by N., as ships' bottoms were scrubbed. On far as we could well discern her on the morning of the 29th they were our deck. We immediately chased, steering for the Bay of Guayaquil. separating ourselves, the better to In the vicinity, the cat-fish are said meet her in the night, but we missed to be abundant. It is so called from her. Therefore the next morning we its great wide mouth and the strings again trimmed sharp, and made the pointing out from each side of it like best of our way to Lobos de la Mar. cats' whiskers. ] From the Island Santa Clara to The 14th, we had sight of the Island of Lobos de Tierra : it bore E. from Punta Arenas is seven leagues ENE. us ; we stood in towards it, and be This Punta Arenas, or Sandy Point, twixt 7 and 8 o'clock in the night is the westernmost point of the Island came to an anchor at the NE. end of Puna. Here all ships bound into of the island, in fourteen fathoms the River of Guayaquil anchor, and water. This island at sea is of an must wait for a pilot, the entrance indifferent height, and appears like being very dangerous for strangers. Lobos de la Mar. About a quarter The Island of Puna is a pretty large of a mile from the north end there is flat low island, stretching E. and W. , a great hollow rock, and a good about twelve or fourteen leagues long, channel between, where there is seven and about four or five leagues wide. fathoms water. The 15th, we went The tide runs very strong all about ashore, and found abundance of pen this island, but so many different guins and boobies, and seals in great ways, by reason of the branches, quantities. We sent aboard of all creeks, and rivers that run into the these to be dressed, for we had not sea near it, that it casts up many dan
152 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VI. gerous shoals on all sides of it. There | grown with red mangroves, so that is in the island only one Indian town, there is no landing. Four miles be on the south side of it, close by the fore you come to the town of Guaya sea, and seven leagues from Point quil, there is a low island standing in Arenas, which town is also called the river ; this island divides the Puna. The Indians of this town are river into two parts, making two very all seamen, and are the only pilots in fair channels for ships to pass up and these seas, especially for this river. down. The SW. channel is the Their chief employment, when they widest ; the other is as deep, but are not at sea, is fishing. These men narrower and narrower yet, by reason are obliged by the Spaniards to keep of many trees and bushes which good watch for ships that anchor at spread over the river both from the Point Arenas. The place where they main and from the island ; and there keep this watch is at a point of land are also several great stumps of trees on the Island of Puna that starts out standing upright in the water on either into the sea, from whence they can side. The island is above a mile long. see all ships that anchor at Point From the upper part of the island to Arenas. The Indians come thither the town of Guayaquil is almost a in the morning, and return at night league, and near as much from one on horseback. From this watching side of the river to the other. In point to Point Arenas it is four that spacious place, ships of the leagues, all drowned mangrove-land : greatest burthen may ride afloat ; but and midway between these two points the best place for ships is nearest to is another small point, where these that part of the land where the town Indians are obliged to keep another stands ; and this place is seldom with watch, when they fear an enemy. out ships. Guayaquil stands facing The sentinel goes thither in a canoe the island, close by the river, partly in the morning, and returns at night ; on the side, and partly at the foot of for there is no coming thither by land a gentle hill declining towards the through that mangrove marshy river, by which the lower part of it is ground.... There are in the town of often overflown. There are two forts, Puna about twenty houses, and a small one standing in the low ground, the church. The houses stand all on other on the hill. This town makes posts, ten or twelvefeet high, with lad- a very fine prospect, it being beauti ders on the outside to go up into them. fied with several churches and other I did never see the like building any good buildings. Here lives a Gover where but among the Malayans in the nor, who, as I have been informed, East Indies. They are thatched with has his patent from the King of palmetto leaves, and their chambers Spain. Guayaquil may be reck well boarded, in which last they ex- oned one of the chief seaports in ceed the Malayans . the South Seas : the commodities From Puna to Guayaquil is reckon which are exported from hence are ed seven leagues. It is one league cacao, hides, tallow, sarsaparilla, and before you come to the River of Guaya other drugs, and woollen cloth, com quil's mouth, where it is above two monly called cloth of Quito. The miles wide ; from thence upwards the cacao grows on both sides of the river river lies pretty straight, without any above the town. It is a small nut, considerable turnings. Both sides of like the Campeachy nut, I think the the river are low swampy land, over smallest of the two. They produce as much cacao here as serves all the 1 The middle of the island is de kingdom of Peru ; and much of it is scribed as good pasture land, with sent to Acapulco, and from thence to ridges of woodland, abounding in the Philippine Islands. Sarsaparilla palmettoes. The Indians cultivated grows in the water by the sides of the part of these ridges with maize, yams, river, as I have been informed. The and potatoes, Quito cloth comes from a rich town in
153 1684. ] THE COMMERCE OF QUITO AND GUAYAQUIL. the countrywithin land, called Quito. left our ships off Cape Blanco, and There is a great deal made, both ran into the Bay of Guayaquil with serges and broadcloth. This cloth our bark and canoes, steering in for is not very fine, but is worn by the the Island of Santa Clara, where we common sort of people throughout arrived the next day after we left our the whole kingdom of Peru. This ships ; and from thence we sent away and all other commodities which come two canoes the next evening to Point from Quito are shipped off at Guaya Arenas. At this point there are quil for other parts ; and all imported abundance of oysters, and other shell goods for the city of Quito pass by fish, as cockles and mussels ; there Guayaquil : by which it may appear fore the Indians of Puna often come that Guayaquil is a place of no mean hither to get these fish. Our canoes trade. Quito, as I have been inform got over before day, and absconded 3 ed, is a very populous city, seated in in a creek, to wait for the coming of the heart of the country. It is inha the Puna Indians. The next morn bited partly by Spaniards ; but the ing some of them, according to their major part of its inhabitants are In custom, came thither on bark-logs, at dians under the Spanish Govern the latter part of the ebb, and were ment. It is environed with moun all taken by our men. The next day, tains of a vast height, from whose by their advice, the two watchmen bowels many great rivers have their of the Indian town of Puna were taken rise. These mountains abound in by our men, and all its inhabitants, gold, which by violent rains is washed not one escaping. The next ebb they with the sand into the adjacent took a small bark laden with Quito brooks ; where the Indians resort in cloth. She came from Guayaquil troops, washing away the sand, and that tide, and was bound to Lima ; putting up the gold-dust in their they having advice that we were gone calabashes or gourd -shells. Quito is off the coast, by the bark which I the place in all the kingdom of Peru said we saw while we lay at the Island that abounds most with this rich of Lobos. The master of this cloth metal, as I have been often informed. bark informed our men that there The country is subject to great rains, were three barks coming from Guaya and very thick fogs, especially the quil laden with Negroes ; he said they valleys. For that reason it is very would come from thence the next unwholesome and sickly. The chief tide. The same tide of ebb that they distempers are fevers, violent head took the cloth-bark, they sent a canoe ache, pains in the bowels and fluxes. to our bark, where the biggest part of I know no place where gold is found the men were, to hasten them away but what is very unhealthy. Guaya with speed to the Indian town. The quil is not so sickly as Quito and bark was now riding at Point Arenas ; other towns farther within land ; yet and the next flood she came with all in comparison with the towns that the men, and the rest of the canoes, are on the coast of Mare Pacificum, to Puna. The tide of flood being south of Cape Blanco, it is very now far spent, we lay at this town till the last of the ebb, and then sickly. It was to this town of Guayaquil rowed away, leaving five men aboard that we were bound ; therefore we our bark, who were ordered to lie still till 8 o'clock the next morning, and 1 " Coarse cottons, " says M'Cul not to fire at any boat or bark ; but loch, "and woollen cloths, baizes, flan after that time they might fire at any nels, ponchos, and stockings are made object : for it was supposed that before that time we should be masters in Quito.' 2 Quito was annexed to the empire of Guayaquil. We had not rowed of Peru not long before the Spanish above two miles, before we met and conquest ; it is now the capital of 8 Concealed themselves. the Republic of Ecuador.
154 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD [CHAP. VI. took one of the three barks laden with | been disposed so to do. At length Negroes ; the master of her said, that Captain Davis said he would imme the other two would come from Guaya diately land in the creek where they quil the next tide of ebb. We cut lay, and march directly to the town, her mainmast down, and left her at if but forty men would accompany anchor. It was now strong flood, him ; and without saying more words, and therefore we rowed with all speed he landed among the mangroves in towards the town, in hopes to get the marshes. Those that were so thither before the flood was down ; minded followed him, to the number but we found it farther than we did of forty or fifty. Captain Swan lay expect it to be ; or else our canoes, still with the rest of the party in the being very full of men, did not row so creek, for they thought it impossible fast as we would have them. The to do any good that way. Captain Davis and his men were day broke when we were two leagues from the town, and then we had not absent about four hours, and then above an hour's flood more ; therefore returned all wet and quite tired, and our Captain desired the Indian pilot could not find any passage out into to direct us to some creek where we the firm land. He had been so far, might abscond all day, which was that he almost despaired of getting immediately done, and one canoe was back again ; for a man cannot pass sent towards Puna to our bark, to through those red mangroves but order them not to move nor fire till with very much labour. When Cap the next day. But she came too late tain Davis was returned, we concluded to countermand the first orders : for to be going towards the town the be the two barks before mentioned, laden ginning of the next flood ; and if we with Negroes, came from the town found that the town was alarmed, we the last quarter of the evening tide, purposed to return again without and lay in the river, close by the attempting anything there. As soon shore on one side, and we rowed up as it was flood we rowed away, and on the other side and missed them ; passed by the island through the NE. neither did they see nor hear us. As channel, which is the narrowest. soon as the flood was spent, the two There are so many stumps in the barks weighed and went down with river, that it is very dangerous pass the ebb towards Puna. Our bark, ing in the night (and that is the time seeing them coming directly towards we always take for such attempts) ; them, and both full of men, supposed for the river runs very swift, and one that we by some accident had been de of our canoes stuck on a stump, and stroyed, and that the two barks were had certainly overset if she had not manned with Spanish soldiers, sent been immediately rescued by others. to take our ships ; and therefore they When we were come almost to the end of the island, there was a musket fired three guns at them a league fired at us out of the bushes on the before they came near. The two Spanish barks immediately came to main. We then had the town open an anchor, and the masters got into before us, and presently saw lighted their boats and rowed for the shore ; torches or candles all the town over, but our canoe that was sent from us whereas before the gun was fired there took them both. The firing of these was but one light : therefore we now concluded we were discovered. Yet three guns made a great disorder among our advanced men, for most many of our men said that it was a of them did believe they were heard holiday the next day, as it was indeed, at Guayaquil, and that therefore it and that therefore the Spaniards were could be no profit to lie still in the making fireworks, which they often creek, but either row away to the do in the night against such times. town, or back again to our ships. It We rowed therefore a little farther, was now quarter ebb ; therefore we and found firm land ; and Captain could not move upwards, if we had Davis pitched his canoe ashore and
155 1684. ] ATTEMPT ON GUAYAQUIL ABANDONED. landed with his men. Captain Swan beef estantion or farm, and killed a and most of his men did not think it cow, which we dressed and ate. We convenient to attempt anything, see stayed there till the evening tide of ing the town was alarmed ; but at ebb, and then rowed down the river, last, being upbraided with cowardice, and the 9th December in the morning Captain Swan and his men landed arrived at Puna. In our way thither also. The place where we landed we went aboard the three barks laden was about two miles from the town. with Negroes, that lay at anchor in It was all overgrown with woods, so the river, and carried the barks away thick that we could not march through with us. There were 1000 Negroes in in the night ; and therefore we sat the three barks, all lusty young men down waiting for the light of the day. and women. When we came to We had two Indian pilots with us ; Puna, we sent a canoe to Point one that had been with us a month, Arenas, to see if the ships were come who, having received some abuses thither. The 12th day she returned from a gentleman of Guayaquil, to be again, with tidings that they were revenged, offered his service to us, and both there at anchor. Therefore in we found him very faithful ; the other the afternoon we all went aboard of was taken by us not above two or our ships, and carried the cloth-bark three days before, and he seemed to with us, and about forty of the stout be as willing as the other to assist us. est Negro men, leaving their three. This latter was led by one of Captain barks with the rest ; and out of these Davis's men, who showed himself also Captain Davis and Captain Swan very forward to go to the town, and chose about fourteen or fifteen a-piece, upbraided others with faint-hearted and turned the rest ashore. There was never a greater oppor ness. Yet this man, as he afterwards confessed, notwithstanding his cour tunity put into the hands of men to age, privately cut the string that the enrich themselves than we had, to guide was made fast with, and let have gone with these Negroes, and him go to the town by himself, not settled ourselves at Santa Maria on caring to follow him ; but when he the Isthmus of Darien, and employed thought the guide was got far enough them in getting gold out of the mines from us, he cried out that the pilot there, which might have been done was gone, and that somebody had cut with ease ; for about six months be the cord that tied him. This put fore this, Captain Harris, who was every man into a moving posture to now with us, coming overland from seek the Indian, but all in vain ; and the North Seas with his body of Pri our consternation was great, being in vateers, had routed the Spaniards the dark and among woods ; so the away from the town and gold mines design was wholly dashed, for not a of Santa Maria, so that they had man after that had the heart to speak never attempted to settle there again of going farther. Here we stayed till since. Add to this, that the Indian day, and then rowed out into the neighbourhood, who were mortal ene middle of the river, where we had a mies to the Spaniards, and had been fair view of the town ; which, as I flushed by their successes against said before, makes a very pleasant them through the assistance of the prospect. We lay still about half an Privateers for several years, were our hour, being a mile, or something fast friends, and ready to receive and better, from the town. They did not assist us. We had, as I have said, fire one gun at us, nor we at them. 1000 Negroes to work for us ; we had Thus our design on Guayaquil failed ; 200 tons of flour that lay at the Gala yet Captain Townley and Captain pagos ; there was the River of Santa François Gronet took it a little while Maria, where we could careen and after this. When we had taken a fit our ships, and might fortify the full view of the town, we rowed over mouth so, that if all the strength the the river, where we went ashore to a Spaniards have in Peru had come
156 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VII. against us we could have kept them 1 into two lots or shares ; Captain out. If they lay with guard-ships of Davis and his men had one part, and strength to keep us in, yet we had a Captain Swan and his men had the great country to live in, and a great other part. The bark which the nation of Indians that were our cloth was in, Captain Swan kept for friends. Besides, which was the prin a tender. At this time there were at cipal thing, we had the North Seas Plata a great many large turtle, which to befriend us ; from whence we could I judge came from the Galapagos ; export ourselves or effects, or import for I had never seen any here before, goods or men to our assistance ; for though I had been here several times : in a short time we should have had this was their coupling-time, which assistance from all parts of the West is much sooner in the year here than Indies, many thousands of Privateers in the West Indies properly so called. from Jamaica and the French islands Our strikers brought aboard every especially would have flocked over to day more than we could eat. Cap us, and long before this time we tain Swan had no striker, and there might have been masters not only of fore had no turtle but what was sent those mines (the richest gold mines him from Captain Davis ; and all his ever yet found in America), but of all flour too he had from Captain Davis : the coast as high as Quito ; and much but since our disappointment at more than I say might then probably Guayaquil, Captain Davis's men mur have been done. mured against Captain Swan, and But these may seem to the reader did not willingly give him any provi but golden dreams. To leave them, sion, because he was not so forward therefore ; the 13th day we sailed from to go thither as Captain Davis. How Point Arenas towards Plata, to seek ever, at last these differences were our bark that was sent to the Island made up, and we concluded to go of Lobos in search of Captain Eaton. into the Bay of Panama, to a town We were two ships in company, and called La Velia ; but because we had two barks ; and the 16th day we ar not canoes enough to land our men, rived at Plata, but found no bark we were resolved to search some there, nor any letter. The next day rivers where the Spaniards have no we went over to the main to fill water, commerce, there to get Indian canoes. and in our passage met our bark ; she had been a second time at the Island of Lobos, and, not finding us, was CHAPTER VII. coming to Plata again. They had been in some want of provision since they left us, and therefore they had THE 23d of December 1684, we saile been at Santa Elena and taken it ; from the Island of Plata towards the where they got as much maize as Bay of Panama ; the wind at SSE. , a served them three or four days ; and fine brisk gale, and fair weather. that, with some fish and turtle which The next morning we passed by Cape they struck, lasted them till they Pasado. This cape is in Lat. 0° 28 came to the Island of Lobos de Tierra. S. of the Equator. It runs out into They got boobies' and penguins' eggs, the sea with a high round point, of which they laid in a store ; and which seems to be divided in the went from thence to Lobos de la Mar, midst. It is bald against the sea, ¹ where they replenished their stock of but within land, and on both sides, eggs, and salted up a few young seal, it is full of short trees. The land in for fear they should want ; and being the country is very high and moun thus victualled, they returned again tainous, and it appears to be very towards Plata. When our water was woody. Between Cape Pasado and filled we went over again to the Island Cape San Francisco, the land by the of Plata. There we parted the cloths that were taken in the cloth - bark 1 Bare on the side facing the sea.
1684. ] A SEARCH MADE FOR CANOES. 157 sea is full of small points, making as introduced into America very plenti many little sandy bays between them, fully, especially into the Islands of and is of an indifferent height, covered Jamaica, Hispaniola, and Cuba above with trees of divers sorts.1 all, this last being very largely stored It was to the River Santiago that with them, where they feed in the we were bound to seek for canoes ; woods in the daytime, and at night therefore the 26th, supposing our come in at the sounding of a conch selves to be abreast of it, we went shell, and are put up in their crawls 3 from our ships with four canoes. or pens. And yet some turn wild, The 27th in the morning we entered which, nevertheless, are often decoyed at half flood into the smaller branch in by the others ; which being all of that river, and rowed up six leagues marked, whenever they 4 see an un before we met any inhabitants. There marked hog in the pen, they know it we found two small huts thatched is a wild one, and shoot him pre with palmetto leaves. The Indians, sently. These crawls I have not seen secing us rowing towards their houses, on the continent, where the Spaniards got their wives and little ones, with keep them tame at home. Among theirhousehold-stuff, into their canoes, the wild Indians, or in their woods, and paddled away faster than we could are no hogs, but peccary and warree, row; for we were forced to keep in a sort I have mentioned before. After the middle of the river because of our we had refreshed ourselves, we re oars, but they with their paddles kept turned towardsthe mouth of the river. close under the banks, and so had It was the evening when we came not the strength of the stream against from thence, and we got to the river's them as we had. These huts were mouth the next morning before day close by the river on the east side of Our ships when we left them were it, just against the end of the island . ordered to go to Gallo, where they We saw a great many other houses a were to stay for us. Gallo is a small league from us on the other side of uninhabited island, lying in between the river ; but the main stream into 2° and 3° N. Lat. It lies in a wide which we were now come, seemed to bay about three leagues from the be so swift, that we were afraid to put mouth of the River Tumaco, and four over for fear we should not be able to leagues and a halffrom a small Indian get back again. We found only a village called Tumaco. The Island hog, some fowls, and plantains in of Gallo is of an indifferent height ; the huts ; we killed the hog and the it is clothed with very good timber fowls, which were dressed presently. trees, and is therefore often visited Their hogs they got, as I suppose, by barks from Guayaquil and other from the Spaniards by some accident, places ; for most of the timber carried or from some neighbouring Indians from Guayaquil and Lima is first who converse with the Spaniards ; for fetched from Gallo. Tumaco is a large this that we took was of their Euro river that takes its name from the pean kind, which the Spaniards have Indian village so called. It is reported to spring from the rich mountains ¹ Passing Cape San Francisco, they about Quito. It is thickly inhabited came to the River Santiago (now sup with Indians, and there are some posed to be the River Mira, which, Spaniards that live there, who traffic rising N. of Quito, enters the sea S. with the Indians for gold. The vil of the Bay of Tumaco), where it was lage Tumaco is but small, and is their intention to search for canoes. seated not far from the mouth of the The land near the river's mouth is of river. It is a place to entertain the a deep black mould, producing both 3 Crawl,'"" a corruption of the the cotton and the cabbage trees in great abundance. The particular de Spanish " corral , " is a pen or en scription ofthese trees is now omitted. closure of hurdles for fish or turtle. 2 Have intercourse 4 The Spaniards .
158 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [ CHAP. VII. Spanish merchants that come to Gallo | oysters are commonly flatter and to load timber, or to traffic with the thinner than other oysters, otherwise Indians for gold. From the branch much alike in shape. The fish is not of the River Santiago, where we now sweet, nor very wholesome ; it is as lay, to Tumaco is about five leagues ; slimy as a shell snail. They taste the land low, and full of creeks, so very copperish, if eaten raw, and are that canoes may pass within land best boiled. The Indians, who gather through those creeks, and from thence them for the Spaniards, hang the into Tumaco River. meat of them on strings, like Jews' [On the 28th they left the River ears, ¹ and dry them before they eat Santiago, and coming to Tumaco town them. The pearl is found at the about 12 o'clock at night, they took head of the oyster, lying between the all the inhabitants of the village, in meat and the shell. Some will have cluding a Spanish knight called Don twenty or thirty small seed pearls, Diego de Pinas, who had come in a some none at all, and some will have ship from Lima to lade timber. On one or two pretty large ones. The the 1st of January 1685, they went inside of the shell is more glorious from Tumaco towards Gallo. On the than the pearl itself. I did never see way they had news of a Spanish any in the South Seas but here. It is Armada, which they determined to reported there are some at the south try and intercept among the King's end of California. In the West Indies, Islands. On the 8th they took a the Rancho Reys or Rancherias, spoken ship laden with about ninety tons of of in Chapter III. , 2 is the place where flour. ] they are found most plentifully. It is We jogged onafterthis with a gentle said there are some at the Island of gale towards Gorgona, an island lying Margarita, near St Augustine, a town about twenty-five leagues from the in the Gulf of Florida, &c. In the Island of Gallo. The 9th we anchored East Indies, the Island of Ainam,3 at Gorgona, on the west side of the near the south end of China, is said island, in thirty-eight fathoms, clean to have plenty of these oysters, more ground, not two cables' length from productive of large round pearls than the shore. Gorgona is an uninhabited those in other places. They are found island, in Lat. about 3° N. It is a also in other parts of the East Indies, pretty high island, and very remark and on the Persian coast. At this Island of Gorgona we rum able by reason of two saddles, or risings and fallings, on the top. It maged our prize, and found a few is about two leagues long, and a boxes of marmalade, and three or four league broad, and it is four leagues jars of brandy, which were equally from the main. At the west end is shared between Captain Davis, Captain another small island. The soil or Swan, and their men. Here we filled mould of it is black and deep in the all our water, and Captain Swan fur low ground, but on the side of the nished himself with flour ; afterwards high land it is a kind of a red clay. we turned ashore a great many prison This island is very well clothed with ers, but kept the chief to put them large trees of several sorts, that are ashore in a better place. The 13th flourishing and green all the year. we sailed from hence toward the It is very well watered with small King's Islands. We were now six brooks that issue from the high land. sail-two men-of-war, two tenders, a Here are a great many little black fireship, and the prize. The 16th we This monkeys, some Indian conies, and a passed by Cape Corrientes. few snakes, which are all the land cape is in Lat. 5° 10′ [ N. ] ; it is high animals that I know there. Here are 1 A tough, thin, rumpled fungus, pearl oysters in great plenty ; they grow to the loose rocks in four, five, like a flat and variously-hollowed cup. or six fathoms water, by beards or 2 See page 115. little small roots, as a mussel. These 3 Hai-man, in the Gulf of Tonquin.
THE KING'S ISLANDS. 1685. ] 159 bluff land, with three or four small all this range is called Pacheca or hillocks on the top. It appears at a Pacheque ; this is but a small island, distance like an island. The day distant from Panama eleven or twelve after we passed by the cape, we saw leagues. The southernmost of them a small white island, which we chased, is called St Paul's. Some of these supposing it had been a sail, till, islands are planted with plantains coming near, we found our error. and bananas, and there are fields of The 21st we saw Point Garachina. rice on others of them. The gentle. This point is in Lat. 7° 20′ N. ; ¹ it is men of Panama, to whom they belong, pretty high land, rocky, and destitute keep Negroes there to plant, weed, of trees, yet within land it is woody. and husband the plantations. Many It is fenced with rocks against the of them, especially the largest, are sea. Within the point by the sea, wholly untilled, yet very good fat at low water, you may find store of land, full of large trees. These un oysters and mussels. The King's planted islands shelter many runaway Islands, or Pearl Keys, are about Negroes, who abscond³ in the woods twelve leagues distant from this point. all day, and in the night boldly pil Between Point Garachina and them lage the plantain walks. Betwixt there is a small, low, flat, barren these islands and the main is a chan island called Galera, at which Captain nel of seven or eight leagues wide ; Harris was sharing with his men the there is good depth of water, and gold he took in his pillaging Santa good anchoring all the way. The Maria, which I spoke of a little be islands border thick on each other, fore, when on a sudden five Spanish yet they make many small, narrow, barks, fitted out on purpose at Pana deep channels fit only for boats to ma, came upon him ; but he fought pass between most of them. At the them so stoutly with one small bark SE. end, about a league from St he had and some few canoes, boarding Paul's Island, there is a good place their admiral particularly, that they for ships to careen or haul ashore. were all glad to leave him. By this It is surrounded with the land, and island we anchored, and sent our has a good deep channel on the boats to the King's Islands for a north side to go in at. The tide rises here about ten feet perpendicular. good careening place. The King's Islands are a great We brought our ships into this place many low, woody islands lying NW. on the 25th, but were forced to tarry by N. and SE. by S. They are about for a spring-tide before we could have seven leagues from the main, and water enough to clean them ; there fourteen leagues in length, and from fore we first cleaned our barks, that Panama about twelve leagues. Why they might cruise before Panama they are called the King's Islands I while we lay there. The 27th, our know not ; they are sometimes, and barks being clean, we sent them out mostly in maps, called the Pearl with twenty men in each. The fourth 2 Islands. I cannot imagine wherefore day after, they returned with a prize they are called so, for I did never see laden with maize or Indian corn, salt She came from one pearl oyster about them, nor any beef, and fowls. pearl oyster shells ; but on the other Lavelia, and was bound to Panama. oysters I have made many a meal Lavelia is a town we once designed there. The northernmost island of to attempt ; it is pretty large, and stands on the banks of a river on the north side of the Bay of Panama, six 1 It is really in 8° 10' N. 2 The Isola del Rey, or King's or seven leagues from the sea. Nata Island, is an island of considerable is another such town, standing in a size in the Bay of Panama ; and the plain near another branch of the same Pearl Keys are an archipelago of small river. In these towns, and some islets between King's Island and the coast to the north-west. 3 Hide.
160 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [CHAP. VII. others on the same coast, they breed | town. It gives name to a large bay, hogs, fowls, bulls, and cows, and which is famous for a great many plant maize, purposely for the sup navigable rivers, some whereof are port of Panama, which is supplied very rich in gold ; it is also very with provision mostly from other pleasantly sprinkled with islands that towns and the neighbouring islands.¹ are not only profitable to their owners, The 14th of February 1685, we but very delightful to the passengers made an end of cleaning our ship, and seamen that sail by them. It is filled all our water, and stocked our encompassed on the back side with a selves with firewood. The 15th, we pleasant country, which is full of went out from among the islands, small hills and valleys, beautified and anchored in the channel between with many groves and spots of trees, them and the main, in twenty-five that appear in the savannahs like so fathoms water, soft oozy ground. many little islands. This city is en The Plate Fleet was not yet arrived ; compassed with a high stone wall therefore we intended to cruise before the houses are said to be of brick ; the city of Panama, which is from their roofs appear higher than the this place about twenty-five leagues. top of the city wall. It is beautified The next day we sailed towards Pana with a great many fair churches and ma, passing in the channel between religious houses, besides the Presid the King's Islands and the main.ent's house, and other eminent build When we came abreast of Old Panama ings ; which altogether make one of we anchored, and sent our canoe ashore the finest objects that I did ever see, with our prisoner Don Diego de Pinas, in America especially. There are a with a letter to the Governor, to great many guns on the walls, most treat about an exchange for our man of which look toward the land. They they had spirited away, as I said, had none at all against the sea when I and another Captain Harris left in first entered those seas with Captain the River of Santa Maria the year Sawkins, Captain Coxon, Captain before, coming overland. Don Diego Sharpe, and others ; for till then they was desirous to go on the errand in did not fear any enemy by sea : but the name and with the consent of the since then they have planted guns rest of our Spanish prisoners ; but clear round . This is a flourishing by some accident he was killed city, by reason it is a thoroughfare before he got ashore, as we heard for all imported or exported goods afterwards. and treasure to and from all parts of Old Panama was formerly a famous Peru and Chili, whereof their store place ; but it was taken by Sir Henry houses are never empty. The road Morgan about the year 1673,2 and at also is seldom or never without ships. that time great part of it was burned Besides, once in three years, when the to ashes, and it was never re-edified Spanish Armada comes to Porto Bello, since. New Panama is a very fair then the Plate Fleet also from Lima city, standing close by the sea, about comes hither with the King's treasure, four miles from the ruins of the old and abundance of merchant ships full of goods and plate. At that time the 1 The island where they here car city is full of merchants and gentle as is described ships their eened men ; the seamen are busy in landing being environed with rocks, on which the treasure and goods, and the car they gathered abundance of oysters, riers or caravanmasters employed in clams, mussels, and limpets. carrying it overland on mules, in vast 2 Really at the end of January droves every day, to Porto Bello, and 1671 , when Morgan and his men com bringing back European goods from mitted atrocities that made the cap thence. Though the city be then so ture of Panama conspicuous even full, yet during this heat of business mong the brutal records of the there is no hiring of an ordinary slave Buccaneers . under a piece of eight a-day ; houses
THE SPANISH ARMADA. 1685. ] 161 also, chambers, beds, and victuals, are passage overland through the country of the Indians of Darien, who were a then extraordinary dear. Now I am on the subject, I think little before this become our friends, it will not be amiss to give the reader and had lately fallen out with the an account of the progress of the Spaniards, breaking off the intercourse Armada from Old Spain which comes which for some time they had with thus every three years into the Indies. them and upon calling also to mind Its first arrival is at Carthagena, from the frequent invitations we had from whence, as I have been told, an ex those Indians a little before this time, press is immediately sent overland to to pass through their country and fall Lima, through the Southern Contin upon the Spaniards in the South Seas, ent, and another by sea to Porto Bello, we from thenceforward began to en with two packets of letters, one for tertain such thoughts in earnest, and the Viceroy of Lima, the other for the soon came to a resolution to make Viceroy of Mexico. I know not which those attempts which we afterwards way that of Mexico goes after its did with Captains Sharpe, Coxon, & c. arrival at Porto Bello, whether by So that the taking of these letters land or sea ; but I believe by sea to gave the first life to those bold under La Vera Cruz. That for Lima is takings : and we took the advantage sent by land to Panama, and from of the fears the Spaniards were in thence by sea to Lima. Upon men from that prophecy, or probable con tion of these packets I shall digress jecture, or whatever it were ; for we yet a little further, and acquaint my sealed up most of the letters again, reader, that before my first going over and sent them ashore to Porto Bello. The occasion of this our late friend into the South Seas with Captain Sharpe (and indeed before any Priva ship with those Indians was thus : teers, at least since Drake and Oxen About fifteen years before this time, ham, had gone that way which we Captain Wright being cruising near afterwards went, except La Sound, a that coast, and going in among the French Captain, who by Captain Sambaloes Isles to strike fish and Wright's instructions had ventured turtle, took there a young Indian lad as far as Chepo Town with a body of as he was paddling about in a canoe. men, but was driven back again), I He brought him aboard his ship, and being then on board Captain Coxon, gave him the name of John Gret, in company with three or four more clothing him, and intending to breed Privateers, about four leagues to the him among the English. But his east of Porto Bello, we took the packets Mosquito strikers, taking a fancy to bound thither from Carthagena. We the boy, begged him of Captain opened a great quantity of the mer Wright, and took him with them at chants' letters, and found the contents their return into their own country, ofmany ofthem to be very surprising ; where they taught him their art ; and the merchants of several parts of Old he married a wife among them, and Spain thereby informing their corre learnt their language, as he had done spondents of Panama and elsewhere some broken English while he was of a certain prophecy that went about with Captain Wright, which he im Spain that year, the tenor of which proved among the Mosquitoes, who, was, that there would be English corresponding so much with us, do Privateers that year in the West In all of them smatter English after a dies, who would make such great dis sort ; but his own language he had coveries as to open a door into the almost forgot. Thus he lived among South Seas which they supposed was them for many years ; till, about six fastest shut ; and the letters were or eight months before our taking accordingly full of cautions to their these letters, Captain Wright being friends to be very watchful and care again among the Sambaloes, took ful of their coasts. This door they thence another Indian boy about ten spoke of we all concluded must bethe or twelve years old, the son of a man L
162 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VII. of some account among those Indians ; turtle), he should have his son re and wanting a striker, he went away stored to him, and they might all to the Mosquito country, where he expect a very kind reception. Upon took in John Gret, who was now very these assurances, twenty or thirty of expert at it. John Gret was much them went off presently, in two or pleased to see a lad there of his own three canoes laden with plantains, country, and it came into his mind bananas, fowls, & c.; and, Captain to persuade Captain Wright upon Wright having treated them on board, this occasion to endeavour a friend went ashore with them, and was ship with those Indians ; a thing our entertained by them, and presents Privateers had long coveted, but were made on each side. Captain never durst attempt, having such Wright gave the boy to his father in dreadful apprehensions of their num a very handsome English dress, which bers and fierceness. But John Gret he had caused to be made purposely offered the Captain that he would go for him ; and an agreement was im ashore and negotiate the matter ; mediately struck up between the who accordingly sent him in his English_and_these Indians, who in canoe till he was near the shore, vited the English through their which of a sudden was covered with country into the South Seas. Pur Indians, standing ready with their suant to this agreement, the English, bows and arrows. John Gret, who when they came upon any such had only a clout about his middle, as design, or for traffic with them, were the fashion of the Indians is, leapt to give a certain signal which they then out of the boat and swam, the pitched upon, whereby they might boat retiring a little way back ; and be known. But it happened that Mr the Indians ashore, seeing him in La Sound, the French Captain spoken that habit, and hearing him call to of a little before, being then one of them in their own tongue (which he Captain Wright's men, learnt this had recovered by conversing with the signal, and staying ashore at Petit boy lately taken, suffered him quietly Goave, upon Captain Wright's going to land, and gathered all about to thither soon after, who had his com hear how it was with him. He told mission from thence, he gave the them particularly, that he was one of other French there such an account their countrymen, and how he had of the agreement before mentioned, been taken many years ago by the and the easiness of entering the South English, who had used him very Seas thereupon, that he got at the kindly ; that they were mistaken in head of about 120 of them, who made being so much afraid of that nation, that unsuccessful attempt upon Chepo, who were not enemies to them, but as I said ; making use of the signal to the Spaniards. To confirm this, they had learnt for passing the In he told them how well the English dians' country, who at that time treated another young lad of theirs could not distinguish so well between they had lately taken, such an the several nations of the Europeans one's son ; for this he had learnt of as they can since. From such small the youth ; and his father was one of beginnings arose those great stirs the company that was got together on that have been since made all over the shore. He persuaded them, the South Seas, -viz. , from the letters therefore, to make a league with these we took, and from the friendship con friendly people, by whose help they tracted with these Indians by means might be able to quell the Spaniards ; of John Gret. Yet this friendship assuring, also, the father of the boy, had like to have been stifled in its that if he would but go with him to infancy ; for, within a few months the ship, which they saw at anchor at after, an English trading sloop came an island there (it was Golden Island, on this coast from Jamaica, and John the easternmost of the Sambaloes, a Gret, who by this time had advanced place where there is good striking for himself to be a grandee among these
1685. ] EXPORTATION OF SPANISH TREASURE. 163 Indians, together with five or six money. All this treasure is carried more of that quality, went off to the on mules, and there are large stables sloop in their long gowns, as the at both places to lodge them. Some custom is for such to wear among times the merchants, to steal the them. Being received aboard, they custom, pack up money among goods, expected to find everything friendly, and send it to Venta de Cruces, on and John Gret talked to them in the River Chagres ; from thence down English ; but these Englishmen, the river, and afterwards by sea to having no knowledge at all of what Porto Bello : in which passage I have had happened, endeavoured to make known a whole fleet of periagoes and them slaves, as is commonly done ; canoes taken. The merchants who for upon carrying them to Jamaica are not ready to sail by the thirtieth they could have sold them for £10 or day after the Armada's arrival are £12 a-piece. But John Gret and the in danger to be left behind ; for the rest perceiving this, leapt all over ships all weigh the thirtieth day pre board, and were by the others killed cisely, and go tothe harbour's mouth. every one of them in the water. The Yet sometimes, on great importunity, Indians on shore never came to the the Admiral may stay a week longer ; knowledge of it ; if they had, it for it is impossible that all the mer would have endangered our corre chants should get ready, for want of spondence. Several times after, upon men. When the Armada departs our conversing with them, they in from Porto Bello it returns again to quired of us what was become of Carthagena, by which time all the their countrymen ; but we told them King's revenue which comes out ofthe we knew not, as, indeed, it was a country is got ready there. Here also great while after that we heard this meets them again a great ship, called story ; so they concluded the Span the Patache, ¹ one of the Spanish gal iards had met with them, and killed leons, which, before their first arrival or taken them. at Carthagena, goes from the rest of But to return to the account of the the Armada, on purpose to gather the progress of the Armada, which we tribute of the coast, touching at the left at Carthagena. After an ap Margaritas and other places in her pointed stay there of about sixty days, way thence to Carthagena, as Punta de as I take it, it goes thence to Porto Guayra, Maracaibo, Rio la Hacha, and Bello, where it lies thirty days and Santa Marta, and at all these places no longer. Therefore the Viceroy of takes in treasure for the King. After Lima, on notice of the Armada's the set stay at Carthagena, the Armada arrival at Carthagena, immediately goes away to the Havana, in the Isle sends away the King's treasure to of Cuba, to meet there the Flota, Panama, where it is landed, and lies which is a small number of ships that ready to be sent to Porto Bello upon go to La Vera Cruz, and there take in the first news of the Armada's arrival the effects of the city and country of there. This is the reason partly of Mexico, and what is brought thither their sending expresses so early to in the ship which comes thither every Lima, that upon the Armada's first year from the Philippine Islands ; coming to Porto Bello, the treasure and having joined the rest at the and goods may lie ready at Panama Havana, the whole Armada sets saii to be sent away upon the mules ; and for Spain through the Gulf of Florida. it requires some time for the Lima The ships in the South Seas lie a great fleet to unlade, because the ships ride not at Panama, but at Perica, 1 A patache (French, from Italian, which are three small islands two " patascia ") is a vessel, generally The King's small, used in the conveyance of men, leagues from thence. treasure is said to amount commonly stores, or orders from ship to ship or to about 24,000,000 pieces of eight ; place to place ; a kind of messenger besides abundance of merchants' or auxiliary ship.
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VII. 164 deal longer at Panama before they man's managing the business, wrought return to Lima. The merchants and so powerfully among the common gentlemen which come from Lima people, that the city was in an up The President immediately stay as little time as they can at roar. Porto Bello, which is at the best but sent a gentleman aboard, who de a sickly place, and at this time is very manded the flour prize that we took full of men from all parts. But off Gallo, and all the prisoners, for Panama, as it is not overcharged with the ransom of our two men ; but our men so unreasonably as the other, captains told him they would ex though very full, enjoys a good air, change man for man. The gentle lying open to the sea-wind, which man said he had not orders for that, rises commonly about 10 or 11 o'clock but if we would stay till the next in the morning, and continues till 8 day he would bring the Governor's or 9 o'clock at night ; then the land answer. The next day he brought wind comes, and blows till 8 or 9 in aboard our two men, and had about the morning. There are no woods forty prisoners in exchange. [ On the nor marshes near Panama, but a brave, 24th, they ran over to the Island of dry, champaign land, not subject to Taboga, about six leagues south from fogs nor mists. The wet season be Panama. Its principal products are gins in the latter end of May and con said to be the plantain, the banana, tinues till November. The rains are and the cocoa-nut. A small town, not so excessive about Panama itself with a church at one end, is described as on either side of the bay ; yet in as standing by the sea, the whole the months of June, July, and August having been much destroyed by Pri they are severe enough. Gentlemen vateers. ] . .. that come from Peru to Panama, While we lay at Taboga we had especially in these months, cut their like to have had a scurvy trick played hair close to preserve them from us by a pretended merchant from fevers ; for the place is sickly to them , Panama, who came as by stealth to because they come out of a country traffic with us privately ; a thing which never has any rains or fogs, common enough with the Spanish but enjoys a constant serenity ; but merchants, both in the North and I am apt to believe this city is healthy South Seas, notwithstanding the enough to any other people. Thus severe prohibitions of the Governors ; much for Panama. who yet sometimes connive at it, and The 20th, we went and anchored will even trade with the Privateers Our merchant was by themselves. within a league of the Islands of Perica, which are only three little agreement to bring out his bark laden barren rocky islands, in expectation with goods in the night, and we to of the President of Panama's answer go and anchor at the south of Perica. to the letter I said we sent him by Out he came, with a fireship instead Don Diego, treating about exchange of a bark, and approached very near, of prisoners ; this being the day on hailing us with the watchword we which he had given us his parole to had agreed upon. We, suspecting return with an answer. The 21st, we the worst, called to them to come to took another bark laden with hogs, an anchor, and upon their not doing fowl, salt beef, and molasses ; she so, fired at them ; when immediately came from Lavelia and was going to their men going out into the canoes Panama. In the afternoon we sent set fire to their ship, which blew up another letter ashore by a young Mos and burnt close by us ; so that we teso (a mixed breed of Indians and were forced to cut our cables in all Europeans), directed to the President ; haste and scamper away as well as we and three or four copies of it to be could. The Spaniard was not alto dispersed abroad among the common gether so politic in appointing to people. This letter, which was full meet us at Perica, for there we had of threats, together with the young sea-room ; whereas had he come thus
TREACHERY OF 1685.] upon us atTaboga, the land-wind bear ing hard upon us as it did, we must either have been burnt by the fireship, or, upon loosing our cables, have been driven ashore. But I suppose they chose Perica rather for the scene of their enterprise, partly because they might there best skulk among the islands, and partly because, if their exploit failed, they could thence es cape best from our canoes to Panama, but two leagues off. During this ex ploit, Captain Swan, whose ship was less than ours, and so not so much aimed at by the Spaniards, lay about a mile off, with a canoe at the buoy of his anchor, as fearing some treachery from our pretended merchant ; and a little before the bark blew up, he saw a small float on the water, and, as it appeared, a man on it, making to wards his ship ; but the man dived, and disappeared of a sudden, as thinking probably that he was dis covered. This was supposed to be one coming with some combustible matter to have stuck about the rudder. For such a trick Captain Sharpe was served at Coquimbo, and his ship had like to have been burnt by it, if by mere accident it had not been discovered. I was then aboard Captain Sharpe's ship. Captain Swan, seeing the blaze by us, cut his cables as we did ; his bark did the like ; so we kept under sail all the night, being more scared than hurt. The bark that was on fire drove burn ing towards Taboga ; but after the first blast she did not burn clear, only made a smother ; for she was not well made, though Captain Bond had the framing and management of it. This Captain Bond was he of whom I made mention in my Fourth Chap ter. He, after his being at the Isles of Cape Verd, stood away for the South Seas, at the instigation of one Richard Morton, who had been with Captain Sharpe in the South Seas. In his way he met with Captain Eaton, and they two consorted a day or two ; at last Morton went aboard of Captain Eaton, and persuaded him
¹ See page 125.
CAPTAIN BOND. 165 to lose Captain Bond in the night, which Captain Eaton did ; Morton continuing aboard of Captain Eaton, as finding his the better ship. Cap tain Bond thus losing both his consort Eaton, and Morton his pilot, and his ship being but an ordinary sailer, de spaired of getting into the South Seas ; and he had played such tricks among the Caribbee Isles, as I have been informed, that he did not dare to appear at any of the English Islands. Therefore he persuaded his mento go to the Spaniards, and they consented to do anything that he should propose ; so he presently steered away into the West Indies, and the first place where he came to an anchor was at Porto Bello. He presently declared to the Governor that there were English ships coming into the South Seas, and that if they questioned it, he offered to be kept a prisoner till time should discover the truth of what he said ; but they believed him, and sent him away to Panama, where he was in great esteem. This several prisoners told us. The Spaniards of Panama could not have fitted out their fireship without this Captain Bond's assistance : for it is strange to say how grossly ignorant the Spaniards in the West Indies, but especially in the South Seas, are of sea affairs. They build indeed good ships ; but this is a small matter, for any ship of a good bottom will serve for these seas on the south coast. They rig their ships but untowardly, have no guns but in three or four of the King's ships ; and are as meanly furnished with warlike provisions, and as much at a loss for the making any fireships or other less usual ma chines. Nay, they have not the sense to have their guns run within the sides upon their discharge, but have platforms without for the men to stand on to charge them ; so that when we come near we can fetch them down with small shot out ofour boats. A main reason of this is, that the native Spaniards are too proud to be seamen, but use the Indians for all those offices ; one Spaniard, it may be, going in the ship to command it,
166 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VII. and himself of little more knowledge | increasing their own wealth and the than those poor ignorant creatures ; strength and reputation of their party nor can they gain much experience, thereby. Captain Davis accepted of seldom going far off to sea, but coast one, having before only an old com ing along the shores. mission which fell to him by inheri But to proceed. In the morning tance at the decease of Captain Cooke, when it was light we came again to who took it from Captain Tristian, an anchor close by our buoys, and together with his bark, as is before strove to get our anchors again ; but mentioned. But Captain Swan re our buoy-ropes, being rotten, broke. fused it, saying he had an order from While we were puzzling about our the Duke of York neither to give anchors, we saw a great many canoes offence to the Spaniards nor to receive full of men pass between Taboga and any affront from them ; and that he the other island. This put us into a had been injured by them at Valdivia, new consternation ; we lay still some where they had killed some of his time, till we saw that they came men, and wounded several more ; so directly towards us, then we weighed that he thought he had a lawful com and stood towards them ; and when mission of his own to right himself. we came within hail, we found that I never read any of these French they were English and French Priva commissions while I was in these teers come out of the North Seas seas, nor did I then know the import through the Isthmus of Darien. They of them ; but I have learned since were 280 men, in twenty-eight canoes ; that the tenor of them is, to give a 200 of them French, the rest English. liberty to fish, fowl, and hunt. The They were commanded by Captain occasion of this is, that the Island of Gronet and Captain Lequie. We Hispaniola, where the garrison of presently came to an anchor again, Petit Goave is, belongs partly to the and all the canoes came aboard. French and partly to the Spaniards, These men told us that there were and in time of peace these commis 180 Englishmen more, under the sions are given as a warrant to those command of Captain Townley, in the of each side to protect them from country of Darien, making canoes (as the adverse party ; but in effect the these men had been) to bring them French do not restrain them to His into these seas. All the Englishmen paniola, but make them a pretence that came over in this party were for a general ravage in any part of immediately entertained by Captain America, by sea or land. Davis and Captain Swan in their own Having thus disposed of our asso ships ; and the Frenchmen were or ciates, we intended to sail towards dered to have our flour prize to carry the Gulf of San Miguel, to seek Cap them, and Captain Gronet, being the tain Townley, who by this time we eldest commander, was to command thought might be entering into these them there ; and thus they were all seas. Accordingly the 2d of March disposed of to their hearts' content. 1685, we sailed from hence towards Captain Gronet, to retaliate this kind the Gulf of San Miguel. This gulf ness, offered Captain Davis and Cap lies near thirty leagues from Panama tain Swan each of them a new com towards the SE. The way thither mission from the Governor of Petit from Panama is to pass between the Goave. It has been usual for many King's Islands and the main. It is years past for the Governor of Petit a place where many great rivers, hav Goave to send blank commissions to ing finished their courses, are swal sea by many of his captains, with lowed up in the sea. It is bounded orders to dispose of them to whom on the S. by Point Garachina, which they saw convenient ; those of Petit lies in N. Lat. 6° 40', and on the N. Goave by this means making them selves the sanctuary and asylum of 1 At the opening of Chapter IV. all people of desperate fortunes, and
IN THE GULF OF SAN MIGUEL. 1685. ] 167 by Cape San Lorenzo . The there, and built the town of Santa chief rivers which run into this gulf Maria. These mines were still being are Santa Maria, Sambu, and Congo. worked by the Spaniards and na The River Congo (which is the river tive Indians, when visited by Dam I would have persuaded our men to pier. Another town known by its have gone up as their nearest way in Indian name of Nisperal, also stood our journey overland , mentioned at the mouth of the river, described Chapter I. ) comes directly out of the as being more airy and habitable country, and swallows up many small than Santa Maria itself. On the streams that fall into it from both 2d of March they anchored at Pa sides ; and at last loses itself on the cheque ; on leaving and sailing out N. side of the gulf, a league within towards the gulf they met Captain Cape San Lorenzo . It is not very Townley, who had taken two barks wide, but deep, and navigable some bound for Panama, and laden with leagues within land. There are sands wine, brandy, and sugar, & c. ] The without it, but a channel for ships . 10th, we took a small bark that It is not made use of by the Spaniards, came from Guayaquil ; she had no because of the neighbourhood of Santa thing in her but ballast. The 12th Maria River ; where they have most there came an Indian canoe out of the business on account of the mines . River of Santa Maria, and told us The River of Sambu seems to be a that there were 300 English and great river, for there is a great tide French men more coming overland at its mouth ; but I can say nothing from the North Seas. The 15th we more of it, having never been in it. met a bark with five or six English This river falls into the sea on the men in her, that belonged to Captain south side of the gulf, near Point Knight, who had been in the South Garachina . Between the mouths of Seas five or six months and was now these two rivers on either side the on the Mexican coast. There he had gulf runs in towards the land some spied this bark ; but not being able what narrower, and makes five or six to come up with her in his ship, he small islands , which are clothed with detached these five or six men in a great trees, green and flourishing all canoe, who took her, but when they the year, and good channels between had done could not recover their own the islands . Beyond which , farther ship again, losing company with her in still, the shore on each side closes in the night ; and therefore they so near, with two points of low man came into the Bay of Panama, intend grove land, as to make a narrow or ing to go overland back into the strait scarce half-a-mile wide. This North Seas, but that they luckily serves as a mouth or entrance to the met with us : for the Isthmus of inner part of the gulf, which is a deep Darien was now become a common bay two or three leagues over every road for Privateers to pass between way ; and about the east end thereof the North and South Seas at their This bark of Captain are the mouths of several rivers. The pleasure. River of Santa Maria is the largest of Knight's had in her forty or fifty jars all the rivers of this gulf ; it is navig of brandy : she was now commanded able eight or nine leagues up, for so by Mr Henry More ; but Captain high the tide flows . Beyond that Swan, intending to promote Captain place the river is divided into many Harris, caused Mr More to be turned branches, which are only fit for out, alleging that it was very likely canoes. [They now sailed towards these men were run away from their the Gulf of San Miguel in search commander. Mr More willingly re of Captain Townley. Near the signed her, and went aboard of Cap mouth of the River of Santa Maria tain Swan, and became one of his which falls into the gulf, the Span men. It was now the latter end of the iards, twenty years before, made their first discovery of the gold dry season here ; and the water at
168 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VII. the King's or Pearl Islands, of which | lately taken. Because we could not there was plenty when we first came fill our water here, we designed to go hither, was now dried away. There to Taboga again, where we were sure fore we were forced to go to Point to be supplied. Accordingly, on the Garachina, thinking to water our ships 30th we set sail, being now nine ships there. Captain Harris, being now in company ; and had a small wind commander of the new bark, was sent at SSE. The 3d of April in the even into the River of Santa Maria, to see ing we anchored by Perica, and the for those men that the Indians told us next morning went to Taboga, where of, whilst the rest of the ships sailed we found our four canoes. Here we towards Point Garachina ; where we filled our water and cut firewood ; and arrived the 21st day, and anchored from hence we sent four canoes over two miles from the point, and found to the main, with one of the Indians a strong tide running out of the River lately taken, to guide them to a sugar Sambu. The next day we ran within work ; for, now we had cacao, we thepoint, and anchored in four fathoms wanted sugar to make chocolate. But at low water. The Indians that in the chief of their business was to get habit in the River Sambu came to us coppers ; for each ship having now in canoes, and brought plantains and so many men, our pots would not boil bananas. They could not speak nor victuals fast enough, though we kept understand Spanish ; therefore I be them boiling all the day. About two lieve they have no commerce with or three days after, they returned the Spaniards. We found no fresh aboard with three coppers. water here neither ; so we went from While we lay here, Captain Davis's hence to Puerto Pinas, which is seven bark went to the Island of Otoque. leagues S. by W. from hence. Puerto This is another inhabited island in Pinas lies in Lat 7° N. It is so called the Bay of Panama, not so big as because there are many pine trees Taboga, yet there are good plantain growing there. The land is pretty walks on it, and some Negroes to look high, rising gently as it runs into the after them. These Negroes rear fowls country. This country near the sea and hogs for their masters, who live is all covered with pretty high woods ; at Panama ; as at the King's Islands. the land that bounds the harbour is It was for some fowls or hogs that low in the middle, but high and rocky our men went thither ; but by accident at both sides. The 25th we arrived they met also with an express that at this harbour of pines, but did not was sent to Panama with an account go in with our ships, finding it but an that the Lima fleet was at sea. Most ordinary place to lie at. We sent in of the letters were thrown overboard our boats to search it, and they found and lost, yet we found some that said a stream of good water running into positively that the fleet was coming the sea but there were such great with all the strength that they could swelling surges came into the har make in the kingdom of Peru ; yet bour, that we could not conveniently were ordered not to fight us, except fill our water there. The 26th day they were forced to it (though after we returned to Point Garachina again. wards they choose to fight us, having In our way we took a small vessel first landed their treasure at Lavelia) ; laden with cacao : she came from and that the pilots of Lima had been Guayaquil. The 29th we arrived at in consultation what course to steer Point Garachina. There we found to miss us. [Dampier here inserts Captain Harris, who had been in the translations of two of the captured River of Santa Maria ; but he did not letters reporting the resolutions taken meet the men that he went for ; yet bythe committee of pilots, and laying he was informed again by the Indians down the course to be steered by the that they were making canoes in one fleet. ] The 10th we sailed from Ta of the branches of the River of Santa boga towards the King's Islands again, Maria. Here we shared our cacao because our pilots told us that the
169 AT THE ISLAND OF TABOGA. 1685. ] King's ships did always come this King's Islands ; she was sent out well way. The 11th we anchored at the appointed with armed men to watch place where we careened. Here we our motions. The 25th, Captain Har found Captain Harris, who had gone ris came to us, having cleaned his a second time into the River of Santa ship. The 26th we went again to Maria, and fetched the body of men ward Taboga ; our fleet now, upon that last came overland, as the In Captain Harris joining us again, con dians told us, but they fell short of sisted of ten sail. We arrived at the number they told us of. The Taboga the 28th ; there our prisoners 19th we sent 250 men in fifteen were examined concerningthe strength canoes to the River Chepo to take of Panama ; for now we thought our the town of Chepo. The 21st, all selves strong enough for such an en our ships but Captain Harris, who terprise, being near 1000 men. Out stayed to clean his ship, followed of these, on occasion, we could have after. The 22d we arrived at the landed 900 ; but our prisoners gave Island of Chepillo, the pleasantest us small encouragement to it, for island in the Bay of Panama. It is they assured us that all the strength but seven leagues from the city of of the country was there, and that Panama, and a league from the main. many men were come from Porto This island is about two miles long, Bello besides its own inhabitants, and almost so broad ; it is low on the who of themselves were more in num north side, and rises by a small ascent ber than we. These reasons, together towards the south side. The soil is with the strength of the place, which yellow, a kind of clay. The high has a high wall, deterred us from at side is stony ; the low land is planted tempting it. While we lay here at with all sorts of delicate fruits, viz. , Taboga, some of our men burned the sappodillas, Avocado pears, mammees, town on the island. [From the 4th mammee - sapotas, star apples, &c. of May till the 27th, they were cruis The middle of the island is planted ing among the King's Islands waiting with plantain trees , which are not for the Spanish fleet from Lima.] very large, but the fruit extraordinary The 28th we had a very wet morning, sweet.1 for the rains were come in, as they The River Chepo is very deep, and do usually in May or June sooner or about a quarter of a mile broad ; but later ; so that May is here a very un the mouth of it is choked up with certain month. However about 11 sands, so that no ships can enter, but o'clock it cleared up, and we saw the barks may. There is a small Spanish Spanish fleet about three leagues town of the same name within six WNW. from the Island of Pacheque, leagues of the sea ; it stands on the standing close on a wind to the E.; left hand going from the sea. The but they could not fetch the island land about it is champaign, with by a league. We were riding a league many small hills clothed with woods, SE. from the island, between it and but the biggest part of the country is the main ; only Captain Gronet was savannah. On the south side of the about a mile to the northward of us river it is all woodland for many near the island. He weighed so soon leagues together. It was to this as they came in sight, and stood over town that our 250 men were sent. for the main, and we lay still, ex The 24th they returned out of the pecting when he would tack and come river, having taken the town without to us ; but he took care to keep him any opposition, but they found no self out of harm's way. thing in it. By the way going thither Captains Swan and Townley came they took a canoe, but most of the aboard of Captain Davis to order how men escaped ashore upon one of the to engage the enemy, who we saw came purposely to fight us, they being The particular description of these in all fourteen sail, besides periagoes fruits is now omitted. rowing with twelve and fourteen oars
170 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VII. a-piece. Six sail of them were ships signal for his fleet to come to an of good force : first the Admiral, 48 anchor. We saw the light in the guns, 450 men ; the Vice-Admiral, Admiral's top, which continued about 40 guns, 400 men ; the Rear-Admiral, half-an-hour, and then it was taken 36 guns, 360 men ; a ship of 24 guns, down. In a short time after, we saw 300 men ; one of 18 guns, 250 men ; the light again ; and being to wind and one of 8 guns, 200 men ; two ward, we kept under sail, supposing great fireships, six ships only with the light had been in the Admiral's small arms, having 800 men on board top ; but, as it proved, this was only them all ; beside two or three hundred a stratagem of theirs, for this light men in periagoes. This account of was put out the second time at one of their strength we had afterwards from their barks ' topmast-head, and then Captain Knight, who, being to the she went to the leeward, which de windward on the coast of Peru, took ceived us, for we thought still the prisoners, of whom he had this in light was in the Admiral's top, and formation, being what they brought by that means thought ourselves to from Lima. Besides these men, they windward of them. In the morning, had also some hundreds of Old Spain therefore, contrary to our expectation, men that came from Porto Bello, and we found they had got the weather met them at Lavelia, from whence guage of us, and were coming upon they now came ; and their strength us with full sail ; so we ran for it, of men from Lima was 3000 men, and after a running fight all day, and being all the strength they could having taken a turn almost round the make in that kingdom, and for greater Bay of Panama, we came to an anchor security they had first landed their again at the Isle of Pacheque, in the treasure at Lavelia. Our fleet con very same place from whence we set sisted of ten sail : first Captain Davis, out in the morning. Thus ended this 36 guns, 156 men, mostly English ; day's work, and with it all that we Captain Swan, 16 guns, 140 men, all had been projecting for five or six English. These were the only ships months, when, instead of making of force that we had, the rest having ourselves masters of the Spanish fleet none but small arms. Captain Town and treasure, we were glad to escape ley had 110 men, all English ; Captain them, and owed that too, in a great Gronet, 308 men, all French ; Captain measure, to their want of courage to Harris, 100 men, mostly English ; pursue their advantage. The 30th day, in the morning, Captain Branley, 36 men, some Eng lish, some French ; Davis's tender, 8 when we looked out, we saw the men ; Swan's tender, 8 men ; Town Spanish fleet all together, three ley's bark, 80 men ; and a small bark leagues to leeward of us, at anchor. of thirty tons made a fireship, with a It was but little wind till 10 o'clock, canoe's crew in her. We had in all and then sprang up a small breeze at 960 men. But Captain Gronet came S. , and the Spanish fleet went away not to us till all was over, yet we to Panama. What loss they had I were not discouraged at it, but re know not ; we lost but one man ; and solved to fight them ; for being to having held a consult, ¹ we resolved windward of the enemy, we had it at to go to the Keys of Quibo or Cabaya, our choice whether we would fight or to seek Captain Harris, who was not. It was 3 o'clock in the after forced away from us in the fight ; noon when we weighed, and being all that being the place appointed for under sail we bore down right afore ourrendezvous upon any suchaccident. the wind on our enemies, who kept As for Gronet, he said his men would close on a wind to come to us ; but not suffer him to join us in the fight ; night came on without anything be but we were not satisfied with that sides the exchanging of a few shot on excuse ; so we suffered him to go with each side. When it grew dark, the Spanish Admiral put out a light as a 1 Council, or consultation.
171 1685. ] ISLANDS OF QUIBO, QUICARA, AND RANCHERIA. us to the Isles of Quibo, and there as being full of savannahs ; but to cashiered our cowardly companion. wards the coast of Peru they cannot Some were for taking from him the pass farther than the River Chepo, ship which we had given him ; but the land there being so full of thick at last he was suffered to keep it with woods, and watered with so many his men, and we sent them away in great rivers, besides less rivers and it to some other place. creeks, that the Indians themselves who inhabit there cannot travel far without much trouble. We met with very wet weather in CHAPTER VIII. our voyage to Quibo, and with SSW. and sometimes SW. winds, which re ACCORDING to the resolutions we had tarded our course. It was the 15th taken, we set out, June the 1st, 1685, of June when we arrived at Quibo, passing between Point Garachina and and found there Captain Harris whom The 3d we we sought. The Island of Quibo or the King's Islands. passed by the Island of Chuche, the Cabaya is in Lat. 7° 14′ N. of the last remainder of the isles in the Bay Equator ; it is about six or seven of Panama. In our passage to Quibo, leagues long, and three or four broad. Captain Branley lost his mainmast, The land is low, except only near the therefore he and all his men left his NE. end ; it is all over plentifully bark, and came aboard Captain Davis's stored with great tall flourishing trees ship. Captain Swan also sprung his of many sorts, and there is good water maintopmast, and got up another ; on the E. and NE. sides of the island. but while he was doing it, and we Here are some deer, and plenty of were making the best of our way, we pretty large black monkeys, whose lost sight of him, and were now on flesh is sweet and wholesome ; besides the north side of the bay ; for this a few guanas and some snakes. I way all ships must pass from Panama, know no other sort of land animal on whether bound towards the coast of the island. There are many other Mexico or Peru. The 10th we passed islands, lying some on the SW. side, by Morro de Puercos, or the Moun others on the N. and NE. sides, of tain of Hogs, why so called I know this island ; as the Island of Quicara, not ; it is a high round hill on the which is a pretty large island SW . of coast of Lavelia. This side of the Quibo, and on the north of it is a Bay of Panama runs out westerly to small island called Rancheria, on the Islands of Quibo ; there are on whichare plenty of Palma-Mariatrees. this coast many rivers and creeks, The Palma-Maria is a tall, straight but none so large as those on the bodied tree, with a small head, but south side of the bay. It is a coast very unlike the palm tree, notwith that is partly mountainous, partly standing the name. It is greatly lowland, and very thick of woods esteemed for making masts, being very bordering on the sea ; but a few tough, as well as of a good length ; leagues within land it consists mostly for the grain of the wood runs not of savannahs, which are stocked with straight along it, but twisting gra bulls and cows. The rivers on this dually about it. These trees grow in side are not wholly destitute of gold, many places of the West Indies, and though not so rich as the rivers on are frequently used both by the Eng the other side of the bay. The coast lish and Spaniards there for that use. is but thinly inhabited ; for except The Islands of Canales and Cantarras the rivers that lead up to the towns are small islands lying on the NE. of of Nata and Lavelia I know of no Rancheria. These have all channels other settlement between Panama to pass between, and good anchoring and Puebla Nueva. The Spaniards about them, and they are as well may travel by land from Panama stored with trees and water as Quibo. through all the kingdom of Mexico, Captain Swan gave to several of these
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VIII. 172 islands the names of those English of Dulce, and the Island Cano. All merchants and gentlemen who were this coast is low land, overgrown with owners of his ship. [ On June 16th, thick woods ; and there are but few Captain Swan came to anchor by inhabitants near the shore. The 8th them, when they held a consulta of August, being in Lat. 11° 20′ by tion as to how they might advance observation, we saw a high hill in their fortunes, as the sea was pro the country, towering up like a sugar mising them little. The result was loaf, which bore NE. by N. We sup a decision to take the town of posed it to be Volcano Viejo by the Puebla Nueva, which they accord smoke which ascended from its top ; ingly did with 150 men. On the 5th therefore we steered in N. , and made ofJuly Captain Knight came to them, it plainer, and then knew it to be having captured two bark-logs laden that volcano, which is the sea-mark with flour. After this, each ship's for the harbour for Realejo. When company began the making of we had brought this mountain to bear NE., we got out all our canoes, canoes. ] Captain Davis made two very large and provided to embark into them canoes : one was thirty-six feet long, the next day. The 9th in the morning, being and five or six feet wide ; the other thirty-two feet long, and near as wide about eight leagues from the shore, as the other. In a month's time we we left our ships under the charge of finished our business, and were ready a few men, and 520 of us went away to sail. Here Captain Harris went in thirty- one canoes, rowing towards to lay his ship aground to clean her, the harbour of Realejo. We had fair but she being old and rotten, fell in weather and little wind till 2 o'clock pieces ; and therefore he and all his in the afternoon ; then we had a men went aboard of Captain Davis tornado from the shore, with much and Captain Swan. While we lay thunder, lightning, and rain, and here we struck turtle every day, for such a gust of wind that we were all they were now very plentiful ; but like to be foundered. In this ex from August to March there are not tremity we put right afore the wind, many. The 18th of July, John Rose, every canoe's crew making what shift a Frenchman, and fourteen men more they could to avoid the threatening belonging to Captain Gronet, having danger. The small canoes, being made a new canoe, came in her to most light and buoyant, mounted Captain Davis, and desired to serve nimbly over the surges ; but the under him ; and Captain Davis ac great heavy canoes lay like logs in cepted of them because they had a the seas, ready to be swallowed by canoe of their own. The 20th of every foaming billow. Some of our July we sailed from Quibo, bending canoes were half full ofwater, yet kept our course for Realejo, which is the two men constantly heaving it out. port for Leon, the city that we now The fierceness of the wind continued designed to attempt. We were now about half-an-hour, and abated by 640 men, in eight sail of ships, com degrees ; and as the wind died away, manded by Captain Davis, Captain so the fury of the sea abated ; for in Swan, Captain Townley, and Captain all hot countries, as I have observed, Knight ; with a fireship, and three the sea is soon raised by the wind, tenders, which last had not a constant and as soon down again when the crew. We passed out between the wind is gone : and therefore it is a River Quibo and Rancheria, leaving proverb among the seamen, " Up Quibo and Quicaro on our larboard wind, 99 up sea down wind, down side, and Rancheria, with the rest of sea." At 7 o'clock in the evening it the islands, and the main, on the star was quite calm, and the sea as smooth board side. The wind at first was at as a millpond. Then we tugged to SSW. We coasted along shore, pass get into the shore, but finding we ing by the Gulf of Nicoya, the Gulf | could not do it before day, we rowed
THE CITY OF 1685. ] off again, to keep ourselves out of sight. By the time it was day, we were five leagues from the land, which we thought was far enough off shore. Here we intended to lie till the even ing ; but at o'clock in the after noon we had another tornado more fierce than that which we had the day before. This put us in greater peril of our lives, but did not last so long. As soon as the violence of the tornado was over, we rowed in for the shore, and entered the harbour in the night. The creek which leads to wards Leon lies on the SE. side of the harbour. Our pilot being very well acquainted here, carried us into the mouth of it, but could carry us no farther till day, because it is but a small creek, and there are other creeks like it. The next morning as soon as it was light, we rowed into the creek, which is very narrow ; the land on both sides lying so low, that every tide it is overflown with the sea. This sort of land produces red mangrove trees, which are here so plentiful and thick that there is no passing through them. Beyond these mangroves, on the firm land close by the side of the river, the Spaniards have built a breastwork purposely to hinder an enemyfrom landing. When we came in sight of the breastwork we rowed as fast as we could to get ashore ; the noise of our oars alarmed the In dians who were set to watch ; and presently they ran away towards the city of Leon to give notice of our approach. We landed as soon as we could, and marched after them : 470 men were drawn out to march to the town, and I was left with fifty-nine men more to stay and guard the canoes till their return. [The city of Leon, twenty miles up the country, is here described as surrounded with long grassy savannahs, and clumps of high woods. It was thought at the time by some to be the pleasantest place in all America, and the paradise of the Indies. The wealth of the place consisted in the pastures, cattle, and plantations of sugar. ] Our men were now marching to Leon ; they went from the canoes
173 LEON TAKEN. about 8 o'clock. Captain Townley with eighty of the briskest men marched before, Captain Swan with 100 men marched next, Captain Davis with 170 men marched next, and Captain Knight brought up the rear. Captain Townley, who was near two miles ahead of the rest, met about seventy horsemen four miles before he came to the city, but they never stood him. About 3 o'clock Captain Townley only with his eighty men entered the town, and was briskly charged in a broad street by 170 or 200 Spanish horsemen ; but two or three of their leaders being knocked down, the rest fled. Their foot con sisted of about 500 men, which were drawn up in the Parade ; for the Spaniards in these parts make a large square in every town, though the town itself be small. This square is called the Parade ; commonly the church makes one side of it, and the gentlemen's houses with their gal leries about them another. But the foot also, seeing their horse retire, left an empty city to Captain Town ley, beginning to save themselves by flight. Captain Swan came in about 4 o'clock, Captain Davis with his men about five, and Captain Knight, with as many men as he could en courage to march, came in about six, but he left many men tired on the road ; these, as is usual, came drop ping in one or two at a time, as they were able. The next morning the Spaniards killed one of our tired He was a stout old grey men. headed man, aged about eighty four, who had served under Oliver in the time of the Irish Rebellion ; after which he was at Jamaica, and had followed privateering ever since. He would not accept of the offer our men made him to tarry ashore, but said he would venture as far as the best of them ; and when surrounded by the Spaniards he re fused to take quarter, but discharged his gun amongst them, keeping a pistol still charged ; so they shot him dead at a distance. His name was Swan. He was a very merry, hearty old man, and always used to declare
174 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VIII. he would never take quarter. But the harbour of Realejo, and in the they took Mr Smith, who was tired afternoon our ships came thither to also ; he was a merchant belonging an anchor. The creek that leads to Realejo to Captain Swan ; and being carried before the Governor of Leon, was lies from the NW. part of the har known by a Mulatto woman that bour, and runs in northerly. It is waited on him. Mr Smith had lived about two leagues from the island in many years in the Canaries, and could the harbour's mouth to the town ; speak and write very good Spanish ; two-thirds of the way it is broad, and it was there this Mulatto woman then you enter a narrow deep creek remembered him. He, being exa bordered on both sides with red man mined how many men we were, said grove trees, whose limbs reach almost 1000 at the city and 500 at the from one side to the other. A mile canoes ; which made well for us at from the mouth of the creek it turns There the Spaniards the canoes, who straggling about away west. every day might easily have been have made a very strong breastwork, destroyed. But this so daunted the fronting towards the mouth of the Governor, that he did never offer creek, in which were placed 100 sol to molest our men, although he had diers to hinder us from landing ; and with him above 1000 men, as Mr twenty yards below that breastwork Smith guessed. He sent in a flag of there was a chain of great trees placed truce about noon, pretending to across the creek, so that ten men ransom the town rather than let it could have kept off 500 or 1000. be burnt ; but our captains demanded When we came in sight of the breast 300,000 pieces of eight for its ran work we fired but two guns, and they som, and as much provision as would all ran away ; and we were afterwards victual 1000 men four months, and near half-an-hour cutting the boom Here we landed, and Mr Smith to be ransomed for some or chain. of their prisoners ; but the Spaniards marched to the town of Riolexo or did not intend to ransom the town, Realejo, " which is about a mile from but only capitulated day after day to hence. This town stands on a plain prolong time till they had got more by a small river. It is a pretty large men. Our captains therefore, con town, with three churches and an sidering the distance that they were hospital that hath a fine garden be from the canoes, resolved to be march- longing to it, besides many large fair ing down. The 14th, in the morning, houses ; they all stand at a good dis they ordered the city to be set on tance one from another, with yards fire, which was presently done, and about them. This is a very sickly then they came away ; but they took place, and I believe hath need enough more time in coming down than in of an hospital, for it is seated so nigh going up. The 15th, in the morning, the creeks and swamps that it is the Spaniards sent in Mr Smith, and never free from a noisome smell. The had a gentlewoman in exchange. land about it is a strong yellow clay, Then our captains sent a letter to yet where the town stands it seems to the Governor, to acquaint him that be sand. Here are several sorts of they intended next to visit Realejo, 2 The chief trade of Realejo was and desired to meet him there ; they also released a gentleman on his pro in pitch, tar, and cordage, with the mise of paying 150 beeves for his ran produce of their sugar-works and som, and to deliver them to us at estantions or beef-farms. They stayed Realejo ; and the same day our men from the 17th to the 24th helping came to their canoes, where having themselves to the produce of the stayed all night, the next morning we country ; when on leaving, some of all entered our canoes, and came to the more mischievous of the crew set on fire the town, which they left 1 Professing his desire. burning.
THE TRADE OF GUATEMALA. 175 1685. ] fruits, as guavas, ¹ pine-apples, melons, shore, and saw no land till the 14th day ; but then being in Lat. 12° 50', and prickly pears.2 The 25th, Captain Davis and Cap the volcano of Guatemala appeared in tain Swan broke off consortships, for sight. This is a very high mountain Captain Davis was minded to return with two peaks or heads appearing again on the coast of Peru, but Cap like two sugar-loaves. It often bel tain Swan desired to go farther to the ches forth flames of fire and smoke westward. I had till this time been from between the two heads, and this, with Captain Davis, but nowleft him as the Spaniards do report, happens and went aboard of Captain Swan. It chiefly in tempestuous weather. It was not from any dislike to my old is called so from the city of Guate Captain, but to get some knowledge mala, which stands near the foot of eight leagues from the South of the northern parts of this continent it, about 3 of Mexico ; and I knew that Captain Sea, and by report, forty or fifty Swan determined to coast it as far leagues from the Gulf of Amatique in north as he thought convenient, and the Bay of Honduras in the North then pass over for the East Indies, Seas. This city is famous for many which was a way very agreeable to my rich commodities that are produced inclination. Captain Townley, with thereabouts, some almost peculiar to his two barks, was resolved to keep this country and yearly sent into us company ; but Captain Knight Europe, especially four rich dyes and Captain Harris followed Captain indigo, otta or anatta, silvester, and Davis. The 27th, in the morning, cochineal. Captain Davis, with his ships, went Indigo is made of an herb which out of the harbour, having a fresh grows a foot and a half or two feet land-wind. They were in company, high, full of small branches, and the Captain Davis's ship, with Captain branches full of leaves resembling the Harris in her, Captain Davis's bark leaves which grow on flax, but more and fireship, and Captain Knight in thick and substantial. They cut this his own ship, in all four sail. Captain herb or shrub and cast it into a large Swan took his last farewell of him by cistern made in the ground for that firing fifteen guns, and he fired eleven purpose, which is half full of water. in return ofthe civility. [While lying The indigo stalk or herb remains in here, they were visited by a malignant the water till all the leaves, and I fever, of which several of the men think the skin, the rind or bark, rot died. On the 3d September, all their off and in a manner dissolve ; but if prisoners and pilots were turned any of the leaves should stick fast, ashore, they being unacquainted with they force them off by much labour, the coast farther westward. The tossing and tumbling the mass in the same day they steered westward, water till all the pulpy substance is meeting with a severe storm in the dissolved. Then the shrub, or woody passage. ] part, is taken out, and the water, We had kept at a good distance off which is like ink, being disturbed no more, settles, and the indigo falls to 1 The guava grows on a hard the bottom of the cistern like mud. scrubbed shrub, is a fruit much like When it is thus settled they draw off a pear, with a thin rind, and full of the water, and take the mud and lay small seeds. It is one of the few it in the sun to dry, which there be West Indian fruits which may be comes hard as you see it brought eaten while still green. 3 The newcity of Guatemala stands 2 The prickly pear, according to Dampier, thrives best in barren sandy to the south-east of the old city about ground near the sea, the fruit being twenty-five miles, and only some six " as big as a large plum, small near the teen miles from the sea. The old city leaf, and big towards the top, where was destroyed by an earthquake in it opens like a medlar." 1776, but has been rebuilt,
176 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VIII. home. Otta, or anatta, ¹ is a red sort | two ships that then lay in the road of dye. It is made of a red flower purposely to take it in ; but these that grows on shrubs seven or eight ships could not come at him, it being feet high. It is thrown into a cistern shoal water. He opened some of the of water as the indigo is, but with chests of indigo, and, supposing the this difference, that there is no stalk, other chests to be all of the same nor so much as the head of the flower, species, ordered his men to carry but only the flower itself pulled off them away. They immediately set from the head as you peel rose-leaves to work, and took the nearest at from the bud. This remains in the hand ; and having carried out one water till it rots, and by much jumb- heap of chests, they seized on another ling it dissolves to a liquid substance great pile of a different mark from like the indigo ; and being settled, the rest, intending to carry them and the water drawn off, the red mud away next. But a Spanish gentle is made up into rolls or cakes and man, their prisoner, knowing that laid in the sun to dry. there was a great deal more than Indigo is produced all over the they could carry away, desired them West Indies, on most of the Caribbee to take only such as belonged to the Islands, as well as the main ; yet no merchants, whose marks he under part of the main yields such great took to show them, and to spare such quantities, both of indigo and otta, as as had the same mark with those in this country about Guatemala. I that great pile they were then enter know not what quantities either of ing upon ; because, he said, those indigo or otta are made at Cuba or chests belonged to the ship captains, Hispaniola ; but the place most who following the seas as themselves used by our Jamaica sloops for these did, he hoped they would for that things is the Island of Porto Rica, reason rather spare their goods than where our Jamaica traders did use to the merchants'. They consented to buy indigo for three reals and otta his request ; but upon their opening for four reals the pound, which is their chests (which was not before but 2s. 3d. of our money ; and yet at they came to Jamaica, where by con the same time otta was worth in nivance they were permitted to sell Jamaica 5s. the pound, and indigo them) they found that the Don had 3s. 6d. the pound ; and even this been too sharp for them ; the few also paid in goods, by which means chests which they had taken of the alone they got 50 or 60 per cent. same mark with the great pile prov Our traders had not then found the ing to be otta, of greater value by far way of trading with the Spaniards in than the other ; whereas they might the Bay of Honduras ; but Captain as well have loaded the whole ship Coxon went thither (as I take it) at with otta as with indigo. The cochi the beginning of the year 1679, under neal is an insect bred in a sort of pretence to cut logwood, and went fruit much like the prickly pear. into the Gulf of Matique, which is in The tree or shrub that bears it is like the bottom of that bay. There he the prickly-pear tree, about five feet landed with his canoes, and took a high, and so prickly, only the leaves whole storehouse full of indigo and are not quite so big, but the fruit is otta in chests, piled up in several bigger.3 parcels, and marked with different marks, ready to be shipped off aboard 3 The gathering of the cochineal insect and the red grain called silves 1 Otherwise called arnotto or an ter by the Indians, is here minutely notto ; it is obtained from the seeds described. The cochineal is bred in of the tree Bixa orellana, and used, the fruit of a shrub like a prickly besides dyeing, for colouring cheese, pear tree, from which it is dislodged , butter, and liquors. and on being exposed to the heat of 2 Frequented . the sun falls down dead, and is caught
A SKIRMISH WITH THE SPANIARDS . 177 1685.1 When we first saw the mountain | in his canoes, seeking for an entrance, of Guatemala, we were by judgment but found none. At last, being out twenty-five leagues ' distance from it. of hopes to find any bay, creek, or As we came nearer the land it ap- river into which he might safely en peared higher and plainer, yet we ter, he put ashore on a sandy bay, saw no fire, but a little smoke pro- but overset all his canoes ; he had ceeding from it. The land by the one man drowned, and several lost sea was of a good height, yet but low their arms, and some of them that in comparison with that in the coun- had not waxed up their cartridge or try. The sea for about eight or cartouche boxes wet all their powder. ten leagues from the shore was full Captain Townley with much ado got of floating trees, or drift-wood, as it ashore, and dragged the canoes up is called (of which I have seen a dry on the bay ; then every man great deal, but nowhere so much as searched his cartouche-box, and drew here), and pumice-stones floating, the wet powder out of his gun, and which probably are thrown out of provided to march into the country ; the burning mountains, and washed but finding it full of great creeks, down to the shore by the rains, which they could not ford, they were which are very violent and frequent forced to return again to their canoes. in this country ; and on the side of In the night they made good fires to Honduras it is excessively wet. The keep themselves warm ; the next 24th, we were in Lat. 14° 30' N. , and morning 200 Spaniards and Indians the weather more settled. Then Cap- fell on them, but were immediately tain Townley took with him 106 men repulsed, and made greater speed back in nine canoes, and went away to the than they had done forward. Cap westward, where he intended to land tain Townley followed them, but not and rummage in the country for some far, for fear of his canoes. These refreshment for our sick men ; we men came from Tehuantepec, a town having at this time near half our that Captain Townley went chiefly to men sick, and many were dead since seek, because the Spanish books made we left Realejo. We in the ships lay mention of a large river there, but still, with our topsails furled and our whether it was run away at this time, courses or lower sails hauled up, this or rather Captain Townley and his day and the next, that Captain Town- men were short-sighted, I know not ; ley might get the start of us. The but they could not find it. Upon 26th we made sail again, coasting to his return, we presently made sail, the westward, having the wind at N. , coasting still westward. We saw no and fair weather. We ran along by opening nor sign of any place to land a tract of very high land, which came at, so we sailed about twenty leagues from the eastward more within land farther, and came to a small high than we could see ; after we fell in island called Tangola, where there is with it, it bare us company for about good anchoring. The island is in ten leagues, and ended with a pretty differently well furnished with wood gentle descent towards the west. The and water, and lies about a league 2d of October, Captain Townley came from the shore. The main against aboard ; he had coasted along shore the island is pretty high champaign savannah land by the sea ; but two in a cloth spread on the ground to or three leagues within land it is receive them. These when dried higher and very woody. We coasted yield the much-esteemed scarlet dye. a league farther and came to Huatul The silvester is the seed of the cochi co. This port is in Lat. 15° 30' ; it neal fruit, which readily falls out of is one of the best in all this kingdom the fruit, on being shaken when ripe. of Mexico. Near a mile from the The dye it yields is very similar to mouth of the harbour, on the east the cochineal, but not quite so valu side, there is a little island close by able. the shore ; and on the west side of M
178 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. VIII. the mouth of the harbour there is a men swam over the river, and took great hollow rock, which by the con three Indians that were placed there tinual working of the sea in and out as sentinels to watch for our coming. makes a great noise which may be These could none of them speak heard a great way. Every surge that Spanish ; yet our men by signs made comes in forces the water out of a them understand that they desired to little hole on its top, as out of a pipe, know if there was any town or village from whence it flies out just like the near ; who, by the signs which they blowing of a whale ; to which the made, gave our men to understand Spaniards also liken it. They call that they could guide them to a this rock and spout the Buffadore ; 1 settlement ; but there was no under upon what account I know not. Even standing by them whether it was a in the calmest seasons the sea beats Spanish or Indian settlement, nor how in there, making the water spout out far it was thither. They brought at the hole ; so that this is always a these Indians aboard with them ; and good mark to find the harbour by. the next day, which was the 6th of The harbour is about three miles October, Captain Townley, with 140 deep, and one mile broad ; it runs in men (of whom I was one) went ashore NW.; and at the bottom of the har again, taking one of these Indians bour there is a fine brook of fresh with us for a guide to conduct us to water running into the sea. Here this settlement. Our men that stayed formerly stood a small Spanish town, aboard filled our water, and cut wood, or village, which 2 was taken by Sir and mended our sails ; and our Mos Francis Drake ; but now there is quito men struck three or four turtle nothing remaining of it besides a every day. They were a small sort little chapel standing among the of turtle, and not very sweet, yet trees about 200 paces from the sea. very well esteemed by us all, because The land appears in small short we had eaten no flesh a great while. ridges parallel to the shore, and to The 8th we returned out of the each other ; the innermost still gra country, having been about fourteen dually higher than that nearer the miles directly within land before we shore ; and they are all clothed with came to any settlement. There we very high flourishing trees, that it is found a small Indian village, and in extraordinary pleasant and delightful it a great quantity of vinelloes dry to behold at a distance. I have no ing in the sun. The vinello is a little where seen anything like it. cod full of small black seeds ; it is At this place, Captain Swan, who four or five inches long, about the had been very sick, came ashore, and bigness of the stem of a tobacco leaf, all the sick men with him, and the and when dried much resembling it ; surgeon to tend them. Captain so that our Privateers at first have Townley again took a company of often thrown them away when they men with him, and went into the took any, wondering why the Span country to seek for houses or inhabit iards should lay up tobacco stems. ants. He marched away to the east This cod grows on a small vine, which ward, and came to the River Capalita, climbs about and supports itself by which is a swift river, yet deep near the neighbouring trees ; it first bears the mouth, and is about a league a yellow flower, from whence the cod from Huatulco. There two of his afterwards proceeds. It is first green, but when ripe it turns yellow ; then 1 The Roarer, or Snorter ; from the the Indians, whose manufacture it is, Spanish " bufar," signifying to puff and who sell it cheap to the Span and blow with anger, to snort. iards, gather it and lay it in the sun, 2 It was here that he parted with which makes it soft ; then it changes Nuno da Silva, the Portuguese pilot, to a chestnut colour. Then they fre captured at the Cape Verd Islands. quently press it between their fingers, which makes it flat. If the Indians
179 THE CURING OF THE VINELLO. 1685. ] do anything to them besides, I know The land from the sea to their houses not ; but I have seen the Spaniards is black earth, mixed with some stones sleek them with oil. These vines and rocks ; all the way full of very grow plentifully at Boca del Toro, high trees. The 10th we sent four canoes to where I have gathered and tried to cure them, but could not, which the westward, who were ordered to makes me think that the Indians lie for us at Port Angels ; where we have some secret, that I know not of, were in hopes that by some means to cure them. I have often asked the or other they might get prisoners Spaniards how they were cured, but I that might give us a better account never could meet with any could tell of the country than at present we me. One Mr Cree, also, a very could have ; and we followed them curious person, who spoke Spanish with our ships. All our men being well, and had been a Privateer all his now pretty well recovered of the life, and seven years a prisoner among fever, which had raged amongst us the Spaniards at Porto Bello and ever since we departed from Realejo. Carthagena, yet, upon all his inquiry, could not find any ofthem that under stood it. Could we have learnt the CHAPTER IX. art of it, several of us would have gone to Boca del Toro yearly, at the dry season, and cured them, and freighted Ir was the 12th of October 1685, our vessel. We there might have had when we set out of the harbour of turtle enough for food, and store of Huatulco with our ships. We coasted vinelloes. Mr Cree first showed me along to the westward , keeping as those at Boca del Toro. At or near near the shore as we could for the a town, also, called Caihooca, ¹ in the benefit of the land-winds, for the sea Bay of Campeachy, these cods are winds were right against us ; and we found. They are commonly sold for found a current setting to the east threepence a cod among the Span ward which kept us back, and iards in the West Indies, and are obliged us 2to anchor at the Island of sold by the druggist, for they are Sacrificios, which is a small green much used among chocolate to per island about half-a-mile long. It fume it. Some will use them among lies about a league to the W. of tobacco, for it gives a delicate scent. Huatulco, and about half-a-mile from I never heard of any vinelloes but the main. [On the 18th they sailed here in this country, about Caihooca, from Point or Island Sacrificios, keep and at Boca del Toro. The Indians ing near the shore till they were of this village could speak but little abreast of Port Angels (Puerto de los Spanish. They seemed to be a poor Angelos), where they anchored. ] The 28d we landed about 100 men innocent people ; and by them we understood that there are very few and marched thither, where we found Spaniards in these parts ; yet all the plenty of fat bulls and cows feeding Indians hereabout are under them. in the savannahs, and in the house good store of salt and maize, and 1 Such names as Tangola, Capalita some hogs, and cocks, and hens ; but River, and Caihooca, will be hard to the owners or overseers were gone. find , on modern maps. Dampier We lay here two or three days, feast places the first, an island, between ing on fresh provisions ; but could Tehuantepec and Point Sacrificios ; not contrive to carry any quantity the second he makes run into the aboard, because the way was so long, sea a little to the eastward of the and our men but weak, and a great point ; and the third he lays down, 2 as nearly as may be, at Cape Moril Apparently off Point Sacrificios, los, not far from the bottom of the which forms the western limit of the Gulf of Tehuantepec. Bay of Campeachy.
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. IX. 180 wide river to ford. Therefore we re they fired their volley and wounded turned again from thence the 26th five of our men. Our people were a day, and brought every one a little little surprised at this sudden adven beef or pork for the men that stayed ture, yet fired their guns and rowed aboard. The two nights that we farther into the lagoon, for they durst stayed ashore at this place we heard not adventure to come out again great droves of jackals, as we sup through the narrow entrance, which posed them to be, barking all night was near a quarter of a mile in length . fong not far from us . None of us saw Therefore they rowed into the middle these ; but I do verily believe they of the lagoon, where they lay out of were jackals, though I did never see gun-shot, and looked about to see if those creatures in America, nor hear there was not another passage to get any but at this time. We could not out at broader than that by which think that there were less than thirty they entered, but could see none. So or forty in a company. We got they lay still two days and three aboard in the evening, but did not nights in hopes that we should come yet hear any news of our two canoes. to seek them, but we lay off at sea, The 27th, in the morning, we sailed about three leagues distant, waiting from hence, and in the evening we for their return, supposing by their anchored in sixteen fathoms water by long absence that they had made a small rocky island which lies about some greater discovery, and were gone half- a-mile from the main and six farther than the fish range ; because leagues westward from Port Angels. it is usual with Privateers, when they The 28th, we sailed again with the enter upon such designs, to search land-wind ; in the afternoon the sea farther than they proposed if they breeze blew hard, and we sprung our meet any encouragement. But Cap. maintopmast. This coast is full of tain Townley and his bark being hills and valleys, and a great sea falls near the shore heard some guns fired in upon the shore. In the night we in the lagoon. So he manned his met with the other two of our canoes canoe andwent towards the shore, and, that went from us at Huatulco. They beating the Spaniards away from the had been as far as Acapulco to seek rocks, made a free passage for our Port Angels. Coming back from mento come out oftheir pound, where thence, they went into a river to get else they must have been starved or water, and were encountered by 150 knocked on the head by the Spaniards. Spaniards ; yet they filled their water | They came aboard their ships again in spite of them, but had one man the 31st of October. From hence we shot through the thigh. Afterwards made sail again, coasting to the west they went into a lagoon, or lake of ward. The 2d of November we passed salt water, where they found much by a rock called by the Spaniards dried fish, and brought some aboard. the Algatross. The land hereabout We being now abreast of that place, is of an indifferent height and woody, sent in a canoe manned with twelve and more within the country, moun men for more fish. The mouth of this tainous. Here are seven or eight lagoon is not a pistol-shot wide, and on white cliffs bythe sea, which are very both sides are pretty high rocks, so remarkable, because there are none so conveniently placed by nature that white and so thick together on all the many men may abscond behind ; and coast. They are five or six miles to within the rock the lagoon opens the west of the Algatross Rock. Two wide on both sides. The Spaniards leagues to the W. of these cliffs there being alarmed by our two canoes that is a pretty large river which forms a had been two or three days before, small island at its mouth. The chan came armed to this place to secure nel on the east side is but shoal and their fish ; and seeing our canoe com sandy, but the west channel is deep ing, they lay snug behind the rocks, enough for canoes to enter. On the and suffered the canoe to pass in, then banks of this channel the Spaniards
THE TOWN OF ACAPULCO. 181 1685.] have made a breastwork to hinder an much better employed in first provid enemy from landing and filling water. ing ourselves with food ; and there The 3d, we anchored abreast of was plenty of maize in the river where this river, in fourteen fathoms water, we now were, as we were informed by about a mile and a half off shore. the same prisoner, who offered to con The next morning we manned our duct us to the place where it was. But canoes, and went ashore to the breast neither the present necessity, nor work with little resistance, although Captain Swan's persuasion, availed there were about 200 men to keep us anything, no, nor yet their own in off. They fired twenty or thirty guns terest ; for the great design we had at us, but seeing we were resolved to then in hand was to lie and wait for land, they quitted the place. One a rich ship which comes to Acapulco chief reason why the Spaniards are so every year richly laden from the frequentlyrouted by us, although many | Philippine Islands. But it was neces times much our superiors in numbers, sary we should be well stored with andinmanyplaces fortified withbreast provisions, to enable us to cruise about works, is their want of small firearms ; and wait the time of her coming. for they have but few on all the sea However, Townley's party prevailing, coasts, unless near their larger garri we only filled our water here, and sons. Here we found a great deal of made ready to be gone. So the 5th, salt, brought hither as I judge to salt in the afternoon, we sailed again, fish, which they take in the lagoons. coasting to the westward, towards The fish I observed here mostly were Acapulco. The 7th, in the afternoon , what we call snooks, ¹ neither a sea-fish being about twelve leagues from the nor freshwater-fish, but very numerous shore, we saw the high land of Aca in these salt lakes. This fish is about pulco, which is very remarkable ; for a foot long, and round, and as thick as there is a round hill standing between the small of a man's leg, with a pretty other two hills, the westernmost of long head ; it has scales of a whitish which is the biggest and highest, colour, and is good meat. How the and has two hillocks like two paps or Spaniards take them I know not ; for its top ; the easternmost hill is higher we never found any nets, hooks, or and sharper than the middlemost. lines, neither yet any bark, boat, or From the middle hill the land de canoe among them on all this coast ; clines toward the sea, ending in a except the ship I shall mention at high round point. There is no land Acapulco. We marched two or three shaped like this on all the coast. In leagues into the country, and met the evening Captain Townley went with but one house, where we took a away from the ships with 140 men in Mulatto prisoner, who informed us of twelve canoes, to try to get the Lima a ship that was lately arrived at Aca ship out of Acapulco harbour. pulco ; she came from Lima. Captain Acapulco is a pretty large town 17° Townley wanting a good ship, thought N. of the Equator. It is the seaport now he had an opportunity of get for the city of Mexico on the west ting one, if he could persuade his side of the continent ; as La Vera men to venture with him into the Cruz, or San Juan D'Ulloa, in the Bay harbour of Acapulco and fetch this of Nova Hispania, is on the north Lima ship out. Therefore he imme side. This town is the only place of diately proposed it, and found not trade on all this coast ; for there is only all his own men willing to assist little or no traffic by sea on all the him , but many of Captain Swan's north-west part of this vast kingdom , men also. Captain Swan opposed it, there being, as I have said, neither because, provision being scarce with boats, barks, nor ships, that I could us, he thought our time might be ever see, unless only what come hither from other parts, and some 1 Or sea-pike ; Centropomus unde boats near the SE. end of California ; as I guess by the intercourse between cimalis.
182 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. IX, that and the main for pearl-fishing. | that are bound to the city of Mexico. The ships that trade hither are only From thence she makes her best way, three ; two that constantly go once coasting still along shore, till she a-year between this and Manilla in arrives at Acapulco, which is com Luzon, one of the Philippine Islands, monly about Christmas, never more and one ship more every year to and than eight or ten days before or after. from Lima. This from Lima com Upon the return of this ship to monly arrives a little before Christ Manilla, the other, which stays there mas ; she brings them quicksilver, till her arrival takes her turn back cacao, and pieces of eight. Here she to Acapulco. Sir John Narborough stays till the Manilla ship arrives, therefore was imposed on by the and takes in a cargo of spices, silks, Spaniards who told him that there calicoes, muslins, and other East In were six sail or more that used this dia commodities, for the use of Peru, trade. The port of Acapulco is very and then returns to Lima. This is commodious for the reception of ships, but a small vessel of twenty guns ; and so large, that some hundreds but the two Manilla ships are each may safely ride there without dam said to be above 1000 tons. These nifying each other. The harbour make theirvoyages alternately, so that runs in north about three miles ; then one or other of them is always at growing very narrow it turns short Manilla. When either of them sets about to the west, and runs about a out from Acapulco, it is at the latter mile farther, where it ends. The end of March or the beginning of town stands on the NW. side, at the April ; she always touches to refresh mouth of this narrow passage, close at Guam, one of the Ladrone Islands, by the sea ; and at the end of the in about sixty days' space after she town there is a platform with a great sets out. There she stays but two or many guns. Opposite to the town, three days, and then prosecutes her on the east side, stands a high strong voyage to Manilla, where she com castle, said to have forty guns of a monly arrives some time in June. By very great bore. Ships commonly that time the other is ready to sail ride near the bottom of the harbour, from thence laden with East India under the command both of the castle Commodities. She stretches away and the platform. Captain Townley, to the north as far as 36°, or some who, as I said before, with 140 men, times 40° N. Lat. , before she gets a left our ships on a design to fetch the wind to stand over to the American Lima ship out of the harbour, had shore. She falls in first with the not rowed above three or four leagues coast of California, and then coasts before the voyage was like to end with along the shore to the south again, all their lives ; for on a sudden they and never misses a wind to bring her were encountered with a violent tor away from thence quite to Acapulco. nado from the shore, which had like When she gets the length of Cape to have foundered all the canoes : but San Lucas, which is the southernmost they escaped that danger, and the point of California, she stretches second night got safe into Port Mar over to Cape Corrientes, which is in ques. Port Marques is a very good about 20° N. Lat. ; from thence she harbour a league to the east of Aca coasts along till she comes to Solagua, ¹pulco harbour. Here they stayed all and there she sets ashore passengers the next day to dry themselves, their clothes, their arms and ammunition ; 1 Apparently the Bay of Manzanilla, and the next night they rowed softly which is directly west of Mexico, and into Acapulco harbour and because answers to the position Dampier's they would not be heard, they hauled map assigns to " Sallagua " or " Sola in their oars and paddled as softly as gua." Dampier's subsequent account if they had been seeking manatee. of the place agrees with the situation and features of Manzanilla. 2 Jucommoding or injuring,
1685.1
SEIZURE OF A MULE TRAIN.
183 They paddled close to the castle ; some small turtle and many small then struck over to the town, and Jew-fish. We went from hence with our ships found the ship riding between the breastwork and the fort, within about on the 13th, and steered westward 100 yards of each. When they had about two leagues farther, to a place well viewed her, and considered the called Chequetan.2 The 14th, in the danger of the design, they thought it morning we went with ninety-five not possible to accomplish it ; there men in six canoes to seek for the fore they paddled softly back again carrier, taking the Mulatto_woman till they were out of command of the for our guide ; but Captain Townley forts, and then they went to land, would not go with us. Before day and fell in among a company of Span we landed at a place called Istapa, a ish soldiers (for the Spaniards, having league to the west of Chequetan. The seen them the day before, had set woman was well acquainted here, guards along the coasts), who imme | having been often at this place for diately fired at them, but did them mussels, as she told us, for here are no damage, only made them retire great plenty of them ; they seem in farther from the shore. They lay all respects like our English mussels. afterwards at the mouth of the har She carried us through the pathless bour till it was day, to take a view wood by the side of a river for about of the town and castle ; and then a league ; then we came into a savan returned aboard again, being tired, nah full of bulls and cows ; and here hungry, and sorry for their disap the carrier before mentioned was lying pointment. [On the 13th, they made at the estantion -house with his mules, sail farther westward, where the coast not having dared to advance all this is described as low, producing many while, as not knowing where we lay ; trees, and the spreading palm in so his own fear made him, his mules, and all his goods become a prey to great plenty. ] The land in the country is full of us. He had forty packs of flour, small peaked barren hills, making some chocolate, a great many small as many little valleys, which appear cheeses, and abundance of earthen flourishing and green. At the W. ware. The eatables we brought away, end of this bay is the hill of Petatlan.¹ but the earthen vessels we had no We came to an anchor on the NW. occasion for, and therefore left them. side of the hill and went ashore, The mules were about sixty ; we about 170 men of us, and marched brought our prize with them to the into the country twelve or fourteen shore, and so turned them away. miles. There we came to a poor In Here we also killed some cows, and dian village that did not afford us a brought [them] with us to our canoes. meal of victuals. The people all fled, In the afternoon our ships came to only a Mulatto woman and three or an anchor half-a-mile from the place four small children, who were taken where we landed, and then we went and brought aboard. She told us that aboard. Captain Townley, seeing a carrier (one who drives a caravan of our good success, went ashore with mules) was going to Acapulco laden | his men to kill some cows, for there with flour and other goods, but stop were no inhabitants near to oppose ped in the road for fear of us a little us. The land is very woody, of a to the west of this village (for he had good fertile soil, watered with many heard of our being on this coast), and small rivers, yet it hath but few she thought he still remained there : inhabitants near the sea. Captain and therefore it was we kept the Townley killed eighteen beeves, and woman to be our guide to carry us after he came aboard, our men, con to that place. At this place where 2 Probably Siguantanejo, a town we now lay, our Mosquito men struck of some importance corresponding in 1 Morro de Petatlan. position to the indications in the text.
184 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. IX. trary to Captain Swan's inclination, | house nor sign of inhabitants, al gave Captain Townley part of the though we passed by a fine valley flour which we took ashore. After- called the Valley of Maguella. Only wards we gave the woman some at two places, the one at our first clothes for her and her children, and setting out on this expedition, and put her and two of them ashore ; but the other at the end of it, we saw a one of them , a very pretty boy about horseman set, as we supposed, as a seven or eight years old, Captain sentinel to watch us. At both places Swan kept. The woman cried and we landed with difficulty, and at each begged hard to have him ; but Cap- place we followed the tracks of the tain Swan would not, but promised horse on the sandy bay, but where to make much of him, and was as they entered the woods we lost the good as his word. He proved after- track ; and although we diligently wards a very fine boy for wit, cour- searched for it, yet we could find it age, and dexterity ; I have often no more, so we were perfectly at a wondered at his expressions and loss to find out the houses or town actions. they came from. The 28th, being The 21st, in the evening, we sailed tired and hopeless to find any town, hence with the land-wind, and coast we went aboard our ships, that were ed along to the westward. The land now come abreast of the place wherewe is high, and full of ragged hills ; and were ; for always when we leave our west from these ragged hills the land ships, we either order a certain place makes many pleasant and fruitful of meeting, or else leave them a sign to valleys among the mountains. The know where we are by making one or 25th we were abreast of a very re more great smokes. After we came markable hill, which, towering above aboard we saw the Volcano of Colima. the rest of its fellows, is divided in This is a very high mountain, in the top, and makes two small parts. about 18° 36' N. , standing five or The Spaniards make mention of a six leagues from the sea, in the midst town called Thelupan¹ near this hill, of a pleasant valley. It appears with which we would have visited if we two sharp peaks, from each of which could have found the way to it. there always issue flames of fire or The 26th, Captain Swan and Captain smoke. The valley in which this Townley, with 200 men, of whom I volcano stands is called the Valley of was one, went in our canoes to seek Colima, from the town itself, which for the city of Colima, a rich place stands there not far from the volcano. by report, but how far within land I The town is said to be great and rich, could never learn ; for, as I said be the chief of all its neighbourhood ; fore, here is no trade by sea, and and the valley in which it is seated, therefore we could never get guides by the relation which the Spaniards to inform us or conduct us to any give of it, is the most pleasant and town but one or two on this coast ; fruitful valley in all the kingdom of and there is never a town that lies Mexico. This valley is about ten open to the sea but Acapulco ; and or twelve leagues wide by the sea, therefore our search was commonly where it makes a small bay ; but how fruitless, as now, for we rowed above far the vale runs into the country, I twenty leagues along shore and found know not. The 29th, our captains it a very bad coast to land ; we saw no went away from our ships with 200 men, intending at the first convenient 1 The hills and town appear to cor place to land and search about for a respond to the town of Texupan, and the twin eminences near it called 2 The valley through which the Cabo de Tetas, or the Paps of Texu River Almeria that passes Colima pan, at the mouth of a river of the enters the sea has near the coast a same name. Telupan is at some dis little town named Olola ; not unlike tance to the south-eastward. in sound to the word in the text.
THE SPANIARDS DRIVEN INLAND. 1685. ] 185 path ; for the Spanish books made | some of our best footmen had not mention of two or three other towns come to their rescue, they must have hereabouts , especially one called yielded or have been killed. They Solagua, to the west of this bay. were both cut in two or three places, Our canoes rowed along as near the but their wounds were not mortal. shore as they could ; but the sea The four Spaniards got away before went so high that they could not our men could hurt them, and land. About ten or eleven o'clock mounting their horses speeded after two horsemen came near the shore, their consorts, who were marched and one of them took a bottle out of away into the country. Our men, his pocket, and drank to our men ; finding a broad road leading into the while he was drinking, one of our men country, followed it about four snatched up his gun and let drive at leagues in a dry stony country, full him, and killed his horse ; so his of short woods ; but finding no signs consort immediately set spurs to his of inhabitants they returned again. In horse and rode away, leaving the theirwayback they tooktwo Mulattoes other to come after afoot. But he who were not able to march as fast being booted made but slow haste ; as their consorts, therefore they had therefore two of our men stripped skulked in the woods, and by that themselves and swam ashore to take means thought to have escaped our him ; but he had a macheat, or long men. These prisoners informed us knife, wherewith he kept them both that this great road did lead to a from seizing him, they having no- great city called Oarrha, ¹ from whence thing in their hands wherewith to many of those horsemen before spoken defend themselves or offend him. of came ; that this city was distant The 30th, our men came all aboard from hence as far as a horse will go again, for they could not find any in four days, and that there is no place to land in. place of consequence nearer ; that The 1st of December we passed by the country is very poor and thinly the port of Solagua. This port is in inhabited. They said, also, that Lat. 18° 52'. It is only a pretty these men came to assist the Philip deep bay, divided in the middle with pine ship, that was every day expect a rocky point, which makes, as it ed here, to put ashore passengers for were, two harbours. Here we saw a Mexico. We now intended to cruise off Cape great new thatched house, and a great many Spaniards, both horse Corrientes to wait for the Philippine beating and ship ; so the 6th of December we set and foot, with drums colours flying, in defiance of us as we sail, coasting to the westwards, to thought. We took no notice of them wards Cape Corrientes. We had fair till the next morning, and then we weather, and but little wind. Here landed about 200 men to try their I was taken sick of a fever and ague, courage ; but they presently with that afterwards turned to a dropsy, drew. The foot never stayed to ex which I laboured under a long time change one shot ; but the horsemen after ; and many of our men died of stayed till two or three were knocked this distemper, though our surgeons down, and then they drew off, ourmen used their greatest skill to preserve pursuing them. At last two of our their lives. The dropsy is a general men took two horses that had lost distemper on this coast, and the their riders, and mounting them rode natives say, that the best remedy after the Spaniards full drive till they they can find for it is the stone or came among them, thinking to have cod of an alligator (of which they taken a prisoner for intelligence, but have four, one near each leg, within had like to have been taken them the flesh) pulverised and drunk in selves ; for four Spaniards surrounded them , after they had discharged their 1 Guadalajara, about 160 miles in pistols, and unhorsed them ; and if land.
186 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [CHAP. IX. water. This receipt we also found cult getting to the westward ; but mentioned in an almanac made at they left four canoes with forty-six Mexico ; I would have tried it, but men at the cape, who resolved to we found no alligators here, though row to the westward. The 18th1 we there are several. There are many sailed to the Keys of Chametly ¹ to good harbours between Solagua and fill our water. These keys or islands Cape Corrientes ; but we passed by of Chametly are about sixteen or them all. As we drew near the Cape, eighteen leagues to the eastward of the land by the sea appeared of an in- Cape Corrientes. They are small, different height, full of white cliffs ; low, and woody, environed with but in the country, the land is high rocks ; there are five of them, lying and barren, and full of sharp peaked in the form of a half moon, not a hills, unpleasant to the sight. To mile from the shore ; and between the west of this ragged land is a them and the main is very good chain of mountains running parallel riding, secure from any wind. The with the shore ; they end on the west Spaniards report that here live fisher with a gentle descent, but on the east men to fish for the inhabitants of the side they keep their height, ending city of Purificacion. This is said to witha highsteep mountainwhich hath be a large town, the best hereabouts ; three small sharp peaked tops, some- but it is fourteen leagues up in the what resembling a crown, and there- country. The 20th we entered with fore called by the Spaniards Coron- in these islands, passing in on the ada, the Crown land. The 11th we SE. side, and anchored between the were fair in sight of Cape Corrientes ; islands and the main in five fathoms it bore N. by W. , and the Crown clean sand. Here we found good land bore N. The cape is of an in- fresh water and wood, and caught different height, with steep rocks to plenty of rock-fish with hook and the sea. It is flat and even on the line, a sort of fish I described at the top, clothed with woods ; the land in Isle of Juan Fernandez ; but we saw the country is high and doubled. no sign of inhabitants besides three This cape lies in 20° 28' N. Here or four old huts, therefore I believe we had resolved to cruise for the that the Spanish or Indian fishermen Philippine ship, because she always come hither only at Lent, or some makes this cape in her voyage home- other such season, but that they do ward. We were, as I have said, four not live here constantly. The 21st, ships in company : Captain Swan Captain Townley went away with and his tender, Captain Townley and about sixty men to take an Indian his tender. It was so ordered that village seven or eight leagues from Captain Swan should lie eight or ten hence to the westward, more towards leagues off shore, and the rest about the cape ; and the next day we went a league distant from each other, be- to cruise off the cape, where Captain tween him and the cape, that so we Townley was to meet us. The 24th, as we were cruising might not miss the Philippine ship ; but we wanted provision, and there off the cape, the four canoes before fore we sent Captain Townley's bark, mentioned, which Captain Townley's with fifty or sixty men to the west of bark left at the Cape, came off to us. the cape, to search about for some They, after the bark left them, passed town or plantations where we might to the west of the cape, and 2 rowed get provision of any sort ; the rest into the valley of Valderas, or per of us in the meantime cruising in haps Val d'Iris ; for it signifies the our stations. The 17th the bark came to us again, but had got no 1 The locality of these islands cor thing ; for they could not get about responds with that of the Puerto de the cape, because the wind on this Tamatlan, a small bay due west from coast is commonly between the NW. the city of La Purificacion. and SW. , which makes it very diffi 2 The Bay of Banderas, to the
1685-6. ] DEADLY ENCOUNTER WITH THE SPANIARDS . 187 Valley of Flags. This valley lies in next day we sent ashore our canoes the bottom of a pretty deep bay, that again and got three or four more. runs in between Cape Corrientes on Captain Townley, who went from us the SE., and the Point of Pontique¹ at Chametly, came aboard the 28th, on the NW., which two places are and brought about forty bushels of about ten leagues asunder. The maize. He had landed to the east valley is about three leagues wide ; ward of Cape Corrientes, and marched there is a level sandy bay against to an Indian village that is four or the sea, and good smooth landing. five leagues in the country. The In In the midst of the bay is a fine dians, seeing him coming, set two river, whereinto boats may enter. houses on fire that were full of maize When our canoes came to this plea and ran away. Yet he and his men sant valley, they landed thirty-seven got in other houses as much as they men, and marched into the country could bring down on their backs, seeking for some houses. They had which he brought aboard. not gone past three miles before We cruised off the Cape till the 1st they were attacked by 150 Spaniards, of January 1686, and then made to horse and foot. There was a small wards the valley of Valderas to hunt thin wood close by them, into which for beef ; and before night we an our men retreated to secure them chored in the bottom of the bay in selves from the fury ofthe horse ; yet sixty fathoms water, a mile from the the Spaniards rode in among them shore. Here we stayed hunting till and attacked them very furiously, the 7th, and Captain Swan and Cap till the Spanish captain and seven tain Townley went ashore every morn teen more tumbled dead off their ing with about 240 men, and marched horses ; then the rest retreated, be to a small hill, where they remained ing many of them wounded. We with fifty or sixty men to watch the lost four men, and had two desper Spaniards, who appeared in great ately wounded. In this action the companies on other hills not far dis foot, who were armed with lances tant, but did never attempt anything and swords, and were the greatest against our men. Here we killed and number, never made any attack ; the salted above two months' meat, be horsemen had each a brace of pistols, sides what we spent fresh ; and might and some short guns. If the foot have killed as much more if we had had came in, they had certainly de been better stored with salt. Our stroyed all our men. When the hopes of meeting the Philippine ship skirmish was over, our men placed were now over, for we did all conclude the two wounded men on horses, and that while we were necessitated to came to their canoes. There they hunt here for provisions she was past killed one of the horses, and dress by to the eastwards, as indeed she ed it, being afraid to venture into was, as we did understand afterwards the savannah to kill a bullock, of by prisoners. So this design failed which there was store. When they through Captain Townley's eagerness had eaten and satisfied themselves, after the Lima ship, which he at they returned aboard. The 25th, tempted in Acapulco harbour, as I being Christmas, we cruised in pretty have related. For though we took near the cape, and sent in three a little flour hard by, yet the same canoes with the strikers to get fish, | guide which told us of that ship would being desirous to have a Christmas have conducted us where we might dinner. In the afternoon they re have had store of beef and maize ; but turned aboard with three great Jew instead thereof, we lost both our time fish, which feasted us all ; and the and the opportunity of providing ourselves, and so were forced to be north of Cape Corrientes, seems to be victualling when weshould have been here intended. cruising off Cape Corrientes in expec Now called Point of Mita. tation of the Manilla ship. Hitherto
188 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. IX. we had coasted along here with two | is in Lat. 21° 15' ; it is three leagues different designs ; the one was to get from the main. At night we anchored the Manilla ship, which would have in six fathoms water, near a league enriched us beyond measure, and this from the main, in good oozy ground. Captain Townley was most for. Sir We caught a great many cat-fish here, Thomas Cavendish formerly took the and at several places on this coast Manilla ship off Cape San Lucas in both before and after this. From this California (where we also would have island the land runs more northerly, waited for her had we been early making a fair sandy bay; but the sea enough stored with provisions to have falls in with such violence on the met her there), and threw much rich shore that there is no landing. We goods overboard. The other design, came to an anchor every evening, and which Captain Swan and our crew in the mornings we sailed off with the were most for, was to search along the land -wind. The 20th we anchored about three coast for rich towns, and mines chiefly of gold and silver, which we were miles on the east side of the Islands assured were in this country, and, we of Chametly, " different from those hoped, near the shore ; not knowing of that name before mentioned ; for (as we afterwards found) that it was these are six small islands in Lat. in effect an inland country, its wealth 23° 11', a little to the south of the Tro remote from the South Sea coast, and pic of Cancer and about three leagues having little or no commerce with it, from the main, where a salt lake has its trade being driven eastward with its outlet into the sea. These isles Europe by La Vera Cruz. Yet we are of an indifferent height ; some of had still some expectation of mines, them have a few shrubby bushes, the and so resolved to steer on farther rest are bare of any sort of wood. northward. But Captain Townley, There is a sort of fruit growing on who had no other design in coming these islands, called penguins, and it on this coast but to meet this ship, is all the fruit they have. The pen resolved to return again towards the guin fruit is of two sorts, the yellow coast of Peru. So here we parted, he and the red. The yellow penguin to the eastward and we to the west grows on a green stem as big as a ward, intending to search as far to man's arm above a foot high from the the westward as the Spaniards were ground. The leaves of this stalk are settled. half a foot long and an inch broad ; It was the 7th of January in the the edges full of sharp prickles. The morning when we sailed from this fruit grows at the head of the stalk in pleasant valley. Before night we two or three great clusters, sixteen or passed by Point Pontique ; it is high, twenty in a cluster. The fruit is as round, rocky, and barren ; at a dis big as a pullet's egg, of a round form, tance it appears like an island. A and in colour yellow. It has a thick league to the W. of this point are two skin or rind, and the inside is full of small barren islands called the Islands small black seeds mixed among the of Pontique. There are several high, fruit. The red penguin is of the big sharp, white rocks that lie scattering ness and colour of a small dry onion, about them ; we passed between these and in shape much like a ninepin, for rocky islands on the left and the it grows not on a stalk or stem as the main on the right, for there is no other, but one end on the ground, the danger. The 14th we had sight of other standing upright. There are a small white rock which appears very some guanas on these islands, but no much like a ship under sail. This rock 2 Properly the Islands of Mazatlan, 1 Two or three small islands, in the name in the text being errone cluding Corvetena and Marieta, are ously taken from a town called Cha marked in modern maps in a corre matla, about forty miles south of Mazatlan. sponding situation off Point Mita.
SEIZURE OF AN INDIAN VILLAGE. 189 1686.] other sort of land animal. The bays | Sal, for it is a salt lake. There is about the islands are sometimes visited water enough for boats and canoes to by seal. enter, and smooth landing after you Captain Swan went away from are in. On the west side of it there hence with 100 men in our canoes to is a house and an estantion or farm the northward to seek for the River of large cattle. Our men went into Culiacan, possibly the same with the the lake and landed, and coming to River ofPiastla, ¹ which some maps lay the house, found seven or eight down in the province or region of bushels of maize, but the cattle were Culiacan. This river lies in about driven away by the Spaniards ; yet 24° N. Lat. We were informed that there our men took the owner of the there is a fair and rich Spanish town estantion and brought him aboard. scated on the east side of it, with He said that the beeves were driven savannahs about it full of bulls and a great way into the country for fear cows, and that the inhabitants of this we should kill them. While we lay town pass over in boats to the Island here, Captain Swan went into this of California, where they fish for lake again, and landed 150 men on the pearl. I have been told since by a NE. side, and marched into the coun Spaniard that said he had been at try. About a mile from the landing the Island California, that there are place, as they were entering a dry great plenty of pearl oysters there, Salina or salt-pond, they fired at two and that the native Indians of Cali Indians that crossed the way before fornia near the pearl fishery are mortal them. One of them, being wounded enemies to the Spaniards. Our canoes in the thigh, fell down ; and being were absent three or four days, and examined, he told our men that there said they had been above thirty was an Indian town four or five leagues but found no river ; that the leagues off, and that the way which land by the sea was low and all sandy they were going would bring them bay, but such a great sea that there thither. While they were in dis was no landing. They met us in their course with the Indian, they were return in Lat. 23° 30', coasting along attacked by 100 Spanish horsemen, shore after them towards Culiacan, so who came with a design to scare them we returned again to the eastward. back, but wanted both arms and This was the farthest that I was to hearts to do it. Our men passed on the north on this coast. Six or seven from thence, and in their way marched leagues NNW. from the Isles of Cha through a savannah of long dry grass. metly there is a small narrow entrance This the Spaniards set on fire, think into a lake which runs about twelve ing to burn them ; but that did not leagues easterly, parallel with the hinder our men from marching for shore, making many small low man ward, though it did trouble them a grove islands. The mouth of this little. They rambled for want of lake is in Lat. about 23° 30'. It guides all this day and part of the is called by the Spaniards Rio de next before they came to the town the Indian spoke of. There they found a 1 The Culiacan and the Piastla are company of Spaniards and Indians, two distinct streams, the former being who made head against them, but were driven out of the town after a the more northerly. 2 In the maps accompanying the short dispute. Here our Surgeon and second edition of Dampier's Voyage one man more were wounded with (London, 1697), from which the text arrows, but none of the rest were is printed, California is more than hurt. When they came into the once laid down as an island, though town they found two or three Indians the author, near the end of the pre wounded, who told them that the sent Chapter, mentions some later name of the town was Mazatlan ; Spanish maps in which it is made " to that there were a few Spaniards living join to the main. " in it, and the rest were Indians ; that
190 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. IX. five leagues from this town there were sort of provisions but what we were two rich gold mines where the Span forced to get in this manner from the iards of Compostella, which is the shore. The 8th, Captain Swan sent chief town in these parts, kept many about forty men to seek for the River slaves and Indians at work for gold. Olita, which is to the eastward of the Here our men lay that night, and the River Rosario. The next day we next morning packed upall the maize followed after with the ships. In the that they could find, and brought it afternoon our canoes came again to on their backs to the canoes, and came us, for they could not find the River aboard. Olita ; therefore we designed next We lay here till the 2d of February, for the River Santiago, to the east ward still. The 11th, in the evening, and then Captain Swan went away we anchored against the mouth of with about eighty men to the River Rosario, 2 where they landed and the river, about two miles from the marched to an Indian town of the shore. It is one of the principal same name. They found it about rivers on this coast. The mouth of nine miles from the sea ; the way to this river is near half-a-mile broad, it fair and even. This was a fine and very smooth entering. Within little town, of about sixty or seventy the mouth it is broader ; for three or houses, with a fair church ; and it four rivers more meet there and issue was chiefly inhabited by Indians. all out together. The 11th, Captain They took prisoners there who told Swan sent seventy men in four canoes them that the River Rosario is rich into this river, to seek a town ; for in gold, and that the mines are not although we had no intelligence of above two leagues from the town. any, yet, the country appearing very Captain Swan did not think it con promising, we did not question but venient to go to the mines, but made they would find inhabitants before haste aboard with the maize which they returned. They spent two days he took there, to the quantity of in rowing up and down the creeks about eighty or ninety bushels, which and rivers ; at last they came to a to us, in the scarcity we were in of large field of maize, which was almost provisions, was at that time more ripe : they immediately fell to gather valuable than all the gold in the ing as fast as they could, and intended world ; and had he gone to the mines to lade the canoes ; but seeing an the Spaniards would probably have Indian that was set to watch the corn, destroyed the corn before his return. they quitted that troublesome and The 3d of February we went with our tedious work and seized him and ships also towards the River Rosario, brought him aboard, in hopes by his and anchored the next day against information to have some more easy the river's mouth. The 7th, Captain and expeditious way of a supply by Swan came aboard with the maize finding corn ready cut and dried. He which he got. This was but a small being examined said that there was a quantity for so many men as we were, town called Santa Pecaques four especially considering the place we leagues from the place where he was were in, being strangers and having taken ; and that if we designed to go no pilots to direct or guide us into thither he would undertake to be our any river ; and we being without all guide. Captain Swan immediately ordered his men to make ready, and 1 Nueva Compostella, a city built the same evening went away with by Nunez de Guzman, once the see eight canoes and 140 men, taking the of a bishop, now removed to Guada Indian for their guide. laxara, along with the importance, if 3 Marked on Dampier's map a little not the very existence, of the place. 2 At no great distance east of Mazat way up the left or south bank of the lan ; several miles up the river is the River Santiago, but not traceable in modern maps. town of Asilo de Rosario.
191 1686.1 SANTA PECAQUE. He rowed about five leagues up the that use ; there was also sugar, salt, river, and landed the next morning. and salt-fish. The river at this place was not above Captain Swan's only business at pistol-shot wide, the banks pretty Santa Pecaque was to get provision; high on each side, and the land plain therefore he ordered his men to and even. He left twenty-three men divide themselves into two parts, to guard the canoes, and marched and by turns carry down the provi with the rest to the town. He set sion to the canoes ; one half remain out from the canoes at 6 o'clock in ing in the town to secure what they the morning, and reached the town had taken, while the other half were by ten. The way through which he going and coming. In the afternoon passed was very plain, part of it they caught some horses ; and the woodland, part savannahs. The next morning, being the 17th, fifty savannahs were full of horses, bulls, seven men and some horses went and cows. The Spaniards seeing him laden with maize to the canoes. coming ran all away ; so he entered They found them, and the men left the town without the least opposition. to guard them, in good order, though This town of Santa Pecaque stands the Spaniards had given them a small on a plain in a savannah by the side diversion, and wounded one man ; of a wood, with many fruit trees but our men of the canoes landed about it. It is but a small town, and drove them away. These that but very regular, after the Spanish came loaded to the canoes left seven mode, with a parade in the midst. men more there, so that now there The houses fronting the parade had were thirty men to guard the canoes. all balconies ; there were two churches, At night the others returned ; and one against the parade, the other at the 18th, in the morning, that half the end of the town. It is inhabited which stayed the day before at the mostly by Spaniards. Their chief oc town took their turn of going, with cupation is husbandry. There are also every man his burthen, and twenty some carriers, who are employed by four horses laden. Before they re the merchants of Compostella to trade turned, Captain Swan and his other for them to and from the mines. men at the town caught a prisoner, Compostella is a rich town about who said that there were near 1000 twenty-one leagues from hence. It men of all colours, Spaniards and In is the chief in all this part of the dians, Negroes and Mulattoes, in kingdom, and is reported to have arms at a place called Santiago, but seventy White families ; which is a three leagues off, the chief town on great matter in these parts, for it this river ; that the Spaniards were may be that such a town has no less armed with guns and pistols, and the than 500 families of copper-coloured copper - coloured with swords and people besides the Whites. The sil lances. Captain Swan, fearing the ver mines are about five or six leagues ill consequence of separating his from Santa Pecaque ; there, as we small company, was resolved the were told, the inhabitants of Compo next day to march away with the stella had some hundreds of slaves at whole party ; and therefore he or work. The silver here and all over dered his men to catch as many the kingdom of Mexico is said to be horses as they could, that they might finer and richer in proportion than carry the more provision with them. that of Potosi or Peru, though the ore | Accordingly, the next day, being the be not so abundant ; and the carriers 19th of February 1686, Captain Swan of this town of Santa Pecaque carry called out his men betimes to be the ore to Compostella, where it is gone ; but they refused to go, and refined. These carriers or sutlers said that they would not leave the also furnish the slaves at the mines town till all the provision was in the with maize, whereof there was great canoes ; therefore he was forced to plenty now in the town, designed for yield to them, and suffered half the
•
192 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. IX. company to go as before. They had | lie there secure from the Spaniards ; now fifty-four horses laden, which and next, that if he could get a com Captain Swan ordered to be tied one merce with the Indians there, he to another, and the men to go in might make a discovery in the Lake two bodies, twenty-five before and as of California, and by their assistance many behind ; but the men would go try for some of the plate of New at their own rate, every man leading Mexico. This Lake of California his horse. The Spaniards observed (for so the sea, channel, or strait, their manner of marching, and laid between that and the continent is an ambush about a mile from the called ) is but little known to the town, which they managed with such Spaniards, by what I could ever success, that falling on our body of learn ; for their draughts do not men who were guarding the corn to agree about it. Some of them make the canoes, they killed them every California an island. Some of their one. Captain Swan hearing the re- draughts newly made make Califor port of their guns, ordered his men nia to join to the main. I believe who were then in the town with him that the Spaniards do not care to to march out to their assistance ; but have this lake discovered, for fear less some opposed him, despising their other European nations should get enemies ; till two of the Spaniards ' knowledge of it, and by that means horses that had lost their riders came visit the mines of New Mexico. gallopinginto the townin agreatfright, New Mexico, by report of several both bridled and saddled, with each English prisoners there, and Span a pair of holsters by their sides, and iards I have met with, lies NW. one had a carbine newly discharged ; from Old Mexico between 400 and which was an apparent token that 500 leagues, and the biggest part of our men had been engaged, and that the treasure which is found in this by men better armed than they ima- kingdom is inthat province ; but with gined they should meet with. There- out doubt there are plenty of mines in fore Captain Swan immediately other parts, as well as in this part of marched out of the town, and his the kingdom where we now were, as men all followed him ; and when he in other places ; and probably on the came to the place where the engage- main bordering on the Lake of Cali ment had been, he saw all his men fornia, although not yet discovered that went out in the morning lying by the Spaniards, who have mines dead. They were stripped, and so enough, and therefore as yet have no cut and mangled that he scarce knew reason to discover more. In my one man. Captain Swan had not opinion, here might be very advan more men then with him than those tageous discoveries made by any that were who lay dead before him ; yet would attempt it, for the Spaniards the Spaniards never came to oppose have more than they can well manage. him, but kept at a great distance ; I know yet they would lie like the dog for it is probable the Spaniards had in the manger ; although not able to not cut off so many men of ours, but eat themselves, yet they would en with the loss of a great many of their deavour to hinder others. But the own. So he marched down to the voyage thither being so far, I take canoes, and came aboard the ship that to be one reason that has hin with the maize that was already in dered the discoveries of these parts ; the canoes. We had about fifty men yet it is possible that a man may find killed. a nearer way hither than we came ; I This loss discouraged us from at mean by the north-west. I know tempting anything more hereabouts. there have been divers attempts made Therefore Captain Swan proposed to about a north-west_passage, and all go to Cape San Lucas, on California, unsuccessful ; yet I am of opinion to careen . He had two reasons for that such a passage may be found. this first, that he thought he could All our countrymen that have gone
THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE. 1686. ] 193 to discover the NW. passage, have passed by three islands, called the endeavoured to pass to the westward, [ Three] Marias. We beat till the beginning their search along Davis's 6th of February, but it was against a or Hudson's Bay. But if I were to go brisk wind, and proved labour in vain. on this discovery, I would go first into Finding, therefore, that we got the South Seas, bend my course from nothing, but rather lost ground, being thence along by California, and that then in 21° 5' N. , we steered away way seek a passage back into the more to the eastward again for the West Seas. For as others have spent Islands Marias, and the 7th we came the summer in first searching on this to an anchor at the east end of the more known side nearer home, and middle island. The Marias are three so before they got through, the time uninhabited islands in Lat. 21° 40' ; of the year obliged them to give over they are distant from Cape San Lucas their search and provide for a long on California forty leagues, bearing course back again, for fear of being ESE. , and from Cape Corrientes twenty left in the winter ; on the contrary, I leagues, bearing upon the same points would search first on the less known of the compass with Cape San Lucas. coasts of the South Sea side, and then They stretch NW. and SE. about four as the year passed away I should teen leagues. There are two or three need no retreat, for I should come small high rocks near them ; the farther into my knowledge ¹ if I suc westernmost of them is the biggest ceeded in my attempt, and should be island of the three, and they are all without that dread and fear which three of an indifferent height. The the others must have in passing from soil is stony and dry ; the land, in the known to the unknown ; who, most places, is covered with a shrubby for aught I know, gave over their sort of wood, very thick and trouble search just as they were on the point some to pass through. In some places of accomplishing their desires. I there is plenty ofstraight, large cedars. would take the same method if I [These islands are described as unin were to go to discover the north-east habitable, but guanas, racoons, turtle, I would winter about tortoise, and seal were to be had in passage. Japan, Corea, or the north-east part abundance. Captain Swan named the of China ; and taking the spring and middle island Prince George's Island. summer before me, I would make my Dampier was here sick of a dropsy, first trial on the coast of Tartary ; but having been buried half-an-hour wherein, if I succeeded, I should come inthe hot sand to induce perspiration, • into some known parts, and have a he got well shortly afterwards. ] . great deal of time before me to reach We stayed here till the 20th ; and Archangel or some other port. Cap then both vessels being clean, we tain Wood indeed says this north-east sailed to the valley of Valderas to passage is not to be found for ice ; water. The 28th we anchored in the but how often do we see that some bottom of the bay of the valley of times designs have been given over Valderas, right against the river, as impossible, and at another time where we watered before ; but this and by other ways those very things river was brackish now in the dry have been accomplished ? But enough season, and therefore we went two or of this. three leagues nearer Cape Corrientes, The next day after that fatal skir and anchored by a small round island mish near Santa Pecaque, Captain not half a-mile from the shore. Here Swan ordered all our water to be our strikers struck nine or ten Jew. filled, and to get ready to sail. The 2 There are really four islands in 21st we sailed from thence, directing our course towards California. We the group ; the fourth, lying farthest to the north-west, is called Santa 1 Into the regions of which I had Juanic. knowledge. N
[CHAP. X. DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. fish some, we did eat, and the rest which is the first place that we could we salted ; and the 29th we filled touch at, and there also being not certain to find provisions, most of thirty-two tons of very good water. Having thus provided ourselves, we our men were almost daunted at the had nothing more to do but to put in thoughts of it, for we had not sixty execution our intended expedition to days' provision, at a little more than the East Indies, in hopes of some half a pint of maize a-day for each better success there than we had met man, and no other provision except with on this little frequented coast. three meals of salted Jew-fish ; and We came on it full of expectations ; we had a great many rats aboard for besides the richness of the country, which we could not hinder from eat and the probability of finding some ing part of our maize ; besides the seaports worth visiting, we persuaded great distance between Cape Corri ourselves that there must needs be entes and Guam, which is variously shipping and trade here, and that set down. The Spaniards, who have Acapulco and La Vera Cruz were to the greatest reason to know best, the kingdom of Mexico what Panama make it to be between 2300 and 2400 and Porto Bello are to that of Peru , leagues : our books also reckon it viz., marts for carrying on a constant differently-between 90 and 100 de commerce between the South and grees, which all comes short indeed North Seas, as indeed they are. But of 2000 leagues ; but even that was a whereas we expected that this com voyage enough to frighten us, con merce should be managed by sea from sidering our scanty provisions. Cap the places along the west coast, we tain Swan, to encourage his men to found ourselves mistaken ; that of go with him, persuaded them that Mexico being almost wholly a land the English books did give the best trade, and managed more by mules account of the distance ; his reasons than by ships ; so that instead of were many, although but weak. He profit, we met with little on this urged, among the rest, that Sir Thomas coast besides fatigues, hardships , and Cavendish and Sir Francis Drake did losses, and so were the more easily run it in less than fifty days, and induced to try what better fortune that he did not question but that our we might have in the East Indies. ships were better sailers than those But, to do right to Captain Swan, he which were built in that age ; and had no intention to be as a privateer that he did not doubt to get there in in the East Indies ; but, as he has little more than forty days, this being often assured me with his own mouth, the best time in the year for breezes, he resolved to take the first oppor which undoubtedly is the reason that tunity of returning to England ; so the Spaniards set out from Acapulco that he feigned a compliance with about this time ; and that although some of his men who were bent upon they are sixty days in their voyage, going to cruise at Manilla, that he it is because they are great ships, might have leisure to take some deep-laden, and very heavy sailers ; favourable opportunity of quitting besides, they, wanting nothing, are the privateer trade. in no great haste in their way, but sail with a great deal of their usual caution, and when they come near the Island of Guam, they lie by in the night for a week before they make CHAPTER X. land. In prudence we also should I HAVE given an account in the last have contrived to lie by in the night Chapter of the resolutions we took of when we came near land ; for other going over to the East Indies. But wise we might have run ashore, or having more calmly considered on the have outsailed the islands and lost length of our voyage from hence to sight of them before morning. But Guam, one of the Ladrone Islands, our bold adventurers seldom proceed 194
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195 SHORT OF PROVISIONS. 1686. ] with such wariness when in any straits. | me a great deal of good, though others But of all Captain Swan's arguments, were weakened byit, for I found that that which prevailed most with them my strength increased and my dropsy was his promising them, as I have wore off. Yet I drank three times said, to cruise off Manilla. So he every twenty-four hours ; but many of and his men being now agreed, and our men did not drink in nine or ten they encouraged with the hope of days' time, and some not in twelve gain, which works its way through days ; one of our men did not drink all difficulties, we set out from Cape in seventeen days' time, and said he Corrientes, March the 31st, 1686. was not a-dry when he did drink ; yet We were two ships in company, Cap- he made water every day, more or tain Swan's ship and a bark com- less. One of our men in the midst of manded under Captain Swan by Cap- these hardships was found guilty of tain Tait, and we were 150 men- 100 theft, and condemned for the same to aboard of the ship, and 50 aboard the have three blows from each man in bark, besides slaves, as I said. the ship with a two-inch and a half The next morning, about 10 o'clock, rope on his bare back. Captain Swan we had the sea breeze at NNE. , so began first, and struck with a good that at noon we were thirty leagues will, whose example was followed by from the cape. It blew a fresh gale all of us. It was very strange that of wind, which carried us off into the in all this voyage we did not see one true trade-wind. At first we had it fish, not so much as a flying fish, nor at NNE., so it came about easterly, any sort of fowl ; but at one time, and then to the east as we ran off. when we were by my account 4975 At 250 leagues' distance from the miles west from Cape Corrientes ; shore we had it at ENE. , and there then we saw a great number of boo it stood till we came within forty bies, which we supposed came from leagues of Guam. When we had some rocks not far from us, which eaten up our three meals of salted Jew were mentioned in some of our sea fish in so many days' time, we had charts, but we did not see them. nothing but our small allowance of After we had run the 1900 leagues maize. After the 1st of May we by our reckoning, which made the made great runs every day, having | English account to Guam, the men very fair clear weather and a fresh began to murmur against Captain trade-wind, which we made use of Swan for persuading them to come with all our sails, and we made many this voyage ; but he gave them fair good observations of the sun. At our words, and told them that the Spanish first setting out we steered into the account might probably be the truest, Lat. of 13°, which is near the Latitude and seeing the gale was likely to con of Guam ; then we steered west, keep tinue, a short time longer would end ing in that Latitude. By the time we cur troubles. As we drew nigh the had sailed twenty days, our men, see island, we met with some small rain, ing we made such great runs, and the and the clouds settling in the west wind like to continue, repined because were an apparent token that we were they were kept at such short allow not far from land ; for in these cli ance. Captain Swan endeavoured to mates between or near the Tropics, persuadethemto have a little patience, wherethetrade-wind blows constantly, yet nothing but an augmentation of the clouds, which fly swift overhead, their daily allowance would appease yet seem near the limb¹ of the horizon them. Captain Swan, though with to hang without much motion or much reluctance, gave way to a small alteration where the land is near. I enlargement of our commons, for now we had not above ten spoonfuls of 1 The utmost edge or border ; an boiled maize a - man once a-day, astronomical term applied to the whereas before we had eight. I do border of the disc of the sun, the believe that this short allowance did | moon, or any planet.
[CHAP. X. DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 196 have often taken notice of it, especi voyage, with the course steered, the ally if it is high land, for you shall direction of the wind, and the obser then have the clouds hang about it vations made ; the result being, by without any visible motion. The his computation, a total westing of miles, or 125° 11' of longitude, 20th day of May our bark, being 7323 66 allowing fifty-eight or fifty- nine about three leagues ahead of our ship, Italian sailed over a rocky shoal on which "" miles to a degree in these lati And upon the ground of there was but four fathom water, and tudes. abundance of fish swimming about this calculation he disputes the ordi the rocks. They imagined by this nary reckoning of hydrographers, who the breadth of the South Sea that the land was not far off ; so they make 66 clapped on a wind with the bark's ' only about 100 degrees, more or head to the north, and being past the less." The tables and argument are shoal, lay by for us. When we came omitted, being purely technical and up with them, Captain Tait came practically obsolete. ] aboard us and related what he had The Island of Guam, or Guahan seen. We were then in Lat. 12° 55', (as the native Indians pronounce it), is one of the Ladrone Islands, and steering W. The Island of Guam is laid down in Lat. 13° N. by the belongs to the Spaniards, who have a Spaniards, who are masters of it, small fort with six guns in it, with a keeping it as a baiting-place¹ as they Governor and twenty or thirty sol go to the Philippine Islands. There diers. They keep it for the relief and fore we clapped on a wind and stood refreshment of their Philippine ships to the N. , being somewhat troubled that touch here in their way from and doubtful whether we were right, Acapulco to Manilla, but the winds because there is no shoal laid down in will not so easily let them take this the Spanish draughts about the Island way back again. The Spaniards of of Guam. At four o'clock, to our late have named Guam the Island great joy, we saw the Island Guam Maria ; it is about twelve leagues long at about eight leagues ' distance. It and four broad, lying N. and S. It was well for Captain Swan that we is a pretty high champaign land. The got sight of it before our provision 21st of May 1686, at eleven o'clock was spent, of which we had but enough in the evening, we anchored near the for three days more ; for, as I was middle of the Island of Guam, on the afterwards informed, the men had west side, a mile from the shore. At contrived first to kill Captain Swan a distance it appears flat and even, and eat him when the victuals were but coming near it you will find it gone, and after him, all of us who stands shelving ; and the east side, were accessory in promoting the un which is much the highest, is fenced dertaking this voyage. This made with steep rocks that oppose the vio Captain Swan say to me after our lence of the sea which continually arrival at Guam, " Ah! Dampier, you rages against it, being driven with would have made them but a poor the constant trade-wind, and on that meal," for I was as lean as the Cap- side there is no anchoring. The west tain was lusty and fleshy. The wind side is pretty low and full of small was at ENE. and the land bore NNE.; sandy bays, divided with as many therefore we stood to the northward rocky points. The soil of the island till we brought the island to bear is reddish, dry, and indifferent fruit east, and then we turned to get in to ful. The fruits are chiefly rice, pine an anchor. [ Dampier here occupies apples, water-melons, musk-melons, several pages with a detailed table, oranges and limes, cocoa-nuts, and a showing every day's run during the sort of fruit called by us bread-fruit. The cocoa-nut trees grow by the ¹ A place of provisioning or refresh sea on the western side in great ment. groves, three or four miles in length, * Plotted, arranged. and a mile or two broad. This tree
BOAT-MAKING AT GUAM. 197 1686.] is in shape like the cabbage tree, and of the sail there is another small yard, at a distance they are not to be to keep the sail out square, and to known each from other, only the roll up the sail on when it blows cocoa-nut tree is fuller of branches ; hard ; for it serves instead of a reef to but the cabbage tree generally is take up the sail to what degree they much higher, though the cocoa-nut please, according to the strength of trees in some places are very high. ... . . . the wind. Along the belly- side of The natives ofthis island are strong the boat, parallel with it, at about six bodied, large-limbed, and well-shaped. or seven feet distance, lies another They are copper-coloured like other small boat or canoe, being a log of Indians ; their hair is black and long, very light wood, almost as long as the their eyes meanly proportioned ; they great boat, but not so wide, being not have pretty high noses ; their lips above a foot and a half wide at the are pretty full, and their teeth in upper part, and very sharp like a different white. They are long-vis wedge at each end. And there are aged, and stern of countenance ; yet two bamboos of about eight or ten we found them to be affable and feet long, and as big as one's leg, courteous. They are many of them placed over the great boat's side, one troubled with a kind of leprosy. near each end of it, and reaching The natives are very ingenious be about six or seven feet from the side yond any people in making boats, or of the boat ; by the help of which the proas as they are called in the East little boat is made firm and contigu . . I have been Indies, and therein they take great ous to the other. delight. These are built sharp at the more particular in describing these both ends. The bottom is of one boats, because I believe they sail the piece, made like the bottom of a little best of any boats in the world . I did canoe, very neatly dug, and left of a here for my own satisfaction try the good substance. This bottom part is swiftness of one of them ; sailing by instead of a keel ; it is about twenty our log, we had twelve knots on our six or twenty-eight feet long ; the reel, and she ran it all out before the under part of this keel is made round, half-minute glass was half out, which, but inclining to a wedge, and smooth ; if it had been no more, is after the and the upper part is almost flat, hav rate of twelve miles an hour ; but I do ing a very gentle hollow, and is about believe she would have run twenty a foot broad. From hence both sides four miles an hour. The Indians of Guam have neat of the boat are carried up to about five feet high with narrow plank, not little houses, very handsomely thatch above four or five inches broad, and ed with palmetto thatch. They in each end of the boat turns up round habit together in villages built by very prettily. But, what is very the sea on the west side, and have singular, one side of the boat is made Spanish priests to instruct them in perpendicular, like a wall, while the the Christian religion. The Spaniards other side is rounding, made as other have a small fort on the west side, vessels are, with a pretty full belly. nearthe south end, with six guns init. Just in the middle it is about four or There is a Governor, and twenty or five feet broad aloft, or more, accord thirty Spanish soldiers. There are ing to the length of the boat. The no more Spaniards on the island, be mast stands exactly in the middle, sides two or three priests. Not long with a long yard that peaks up and before we arrived here, the natives down like a mizzen-yard. One end of rose on the Spaniards to destroy it reaches down to the end or head of them, and did kill many ; but the boat, where it is placed in a notch the Governor with his soldiers at that is made there purposely to re length prevailed, and drove them out ceive it and keep it fast ; the other of the fort. So, when they found end hangs over the stern. To this themselves disappointed of their in yard the sail is fastened. At the foot tent, they destroyed the plantations
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DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. X. and stock, and then went away to island, on the west side, which was other islands. There were then 300 about five leagues from the place or 400 Indians on this island ; but where we were ; therefore we did not now there are not above 100, for all expect an answer till the evening, not that were in this conspiracy went knowing then how nimble they were. away. As for those who yet remain, Therefore, when the Indian canoe if they were not actually concerned was despatched away to the Governor, in that broil, yet their hearts also we hoisted out two of our canoes, and are bent against the Spaniards ; for sent one a-fishing and the other ashore they offered to carry us to the fort, for cocoa-nuts. Our fishing canoe got and assist us in the conquest of the nothing, but the men that went island ; but Captain Swan was not ashore for cocoa-nuts came off laden . for molesting the Spaniards here. About 11 o'clock that same morning, Before we came to an anchor here, the Governor of the island sent a one of the priests came aboard in the letter to Captain Swan, compliment night with three Indians. They first ing him for his present, and promis hailed us to know from whence we ing to support us with as much pro came and what we were ; to whom vision as he could possibly spare ; and answer was made in Spanish that we as a token of his gratitude he sent a were Spaniards, and that we came present of six hogs of a small sort, from Acapulco. It being dark, they most excellent meat, the best, I think, could not see the make of our ship, that ever I ate ; they are fed with nor very well discern what we were. cocoa-nuts, and their flesh is hard as Therefore they came aboard ; but per brisket beef. They were doubtless of ceiving the mistake they were in in that breed in America which came taking us for a Spanish ship, they originally from Spain. He sent also endeavoured to get from us again ; twelve musk-melons, larger than ours but we held their boat fast, and made in England, and as many water them come in. Captain Swan re melons, both sorts here being a very ceived the priest with much civility, excellent fruit ; and sent an order to and, conducting him into the great the Indians that lived in a village cabin, declared that the reason of our not far from our ship to bake every coming to this island was want of day as much of the bread-fruit as we provision, and that he came not in desired, and to assist us in getting as any hostile manner, but as a friend, many dry cocoa-nuts as we would to purchase with his money what he have, which they accordingly did, wanted ; and therefore desired the and brought of the bread-fruit every priest to write a letter to the Gover day hot, as much as we could eat. nor to inform him what we were and After this the Governor sent every on what account we came. For day a canoe or two with hogs and having him now aboard, the Captain fruit, and desired for the same pow was willing to detain him as a host der, shot, and arms, which were sent age till we had provision. The according to his request. We had a Padre told Captain Swan that pro delicate large English dog, which the vision was now scarce on the island, Governor did desire, and had it given but he would engage that the Gover him very freely by the Captain, nor would do his utmost to furnish us. though much against the grain of In the morning, the Indians, in many of his men, who had a great whose boat or proa the Friar came value for that dog. Captain Swan aboard, were sent to the Governor endeavoured to get this Governor's with two letters, one from the Friar, letter of recommendation to some and another very obliging one from merchants at Manilla, for he had2 Captain Swan, and a present of four then a design to go to Fort St George, yards of scarlet cloth, and a piece of 1 Handsome, or favourite. broad silver and gold lace. The Go vernor lives near the south end of the 2 Madras.
1686.]
FRIENDLINESS OF THE GOVERNOR OF GUAM.
and from thence intended to trade at Manilla but this his design was concealed from the company. While we lay here, the Acapulco ship arrived in sight of the island, but did not come in sight of us ; for the Governor sent an Indian proa with advice of our being here. Therefore she stood off to the southward of the island, and coming foul of the same shoal that our bark had run over be fore, was in great danger of being lost there ; for she struck off her rudder, and with much ado got clear, but not till after three days' labour. This we heard afterwards, when we were on the coast of Manilla ; but these Indians of Guam did speak of her being in sight of the island while we lay there, which put our men in a great heat to go out after her ; but Captain Swan persuaded them out of that humour, for he was now wholly averse to any hostile action. The 30th of May the Governor sent his last present, which was some hogs, a jar of pickled mangoes, a jar of excellent pickled fish, and a jar of fine rusk, or bread of fine wheat flour, baked like biscuit, but not so hard. He sent besides six or seven packs of rice, desiring to be excused from sending any more provision to us, saying he had no more on the island that he could spare. He sent word also that the west monsoon was at hand ; that therefore it behoved us to be jogging from hence, unless we were resolved to return back to America again. Captain Swan returned him thanks for his kindness and ad vice, and took his leave ; and the same day sent the Friar ashore that was seized on at our first arrival, and gave him a large brass clock, an as tralobe, and a large telescope ; for which present the Friar sent us aboard six hogs and a roasting pig, three or four bushels of potatoes, and fifty pounds of Manilla tobacco. Then we prepared to be gone, being pretty well furnished with provision to carry us to Mindanao, where we designed next to touch. We took aboard as many cocoa-nuts as we could well stow ; and we had a
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good stock of rice, and about fifty hogs in salt.
CHAPTER XI. WHILE we lay at Guam, we took up a resolution of going to Mindanao, one of the Philippine Islands, being told by the Friar and others that it was exceedingly well stored with provi sions ; that the natives were Mahomet ans, and that they had formerly a commerce with the Spaniards, but that now they were at war with them. This island was therefore thought to be a convenient place for us to go to ; for besides that it was in our way to the East Indies, which we had re solved to visit ; and that the westerly monsoon was at hand which would oblige us to shelter somewhere in a short time ; and that we could not expect good harbours in a better place than in so large an island as Mindanao ; besides all this, I say, the inhabitants of Mindanao being then, as we were told (though falsely), at war with the Spaniards, our men, who it should seem were very squeam ish of plundering without license, derived hopes from thence of getting a commission there from the Prince of the island to plunder the Spanish ships about Manilla, and so to make Mindanao their common rendezvous. And if Captain Swan was minded to go to an English port, yet his men, who thought he intended to leave them, hoped to get vessels and pilots at Mindanao fit for their turn to cruise on the coast of Manilla. As for Captain Swan, he was willing enough to go thither, as best suiting his own design ; and therefore this voyage was concluded on by gencial consent. Accordingly, June 2d, 1686, we left Guam, bound for Mindanao. The 21st of June, we arrived at the Island St John, ¹ which is one of the
1 It would seem that Dampier was misled by the deep indentation of the coast on the south of Mindanao to fancy two islands when there was
200 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XI. Philippine Islands. The Philippines | in gold ; and the Spaniards have no are a great company of large islands, place of much strength in all these taking up about 13° of Lat. in length, islands that I could ever hear of, be reaching near upon from 5° N. Lat. sides Manilla itself. Yet they have to 19°, and in breadth about 6° of villages and towns on several of the Longitude. They derive this name islands, and Padres or priests to in from Philip the second king of Spain ; struct the native Indians, from whom and even now they do most of them they get their gold. The Spanish belong to that crown . The chief inhabitants, of the smaller islands island in this range is Luconia, especially, would willingly trade with which lies on the north of them all. us if the government was not so severe At this island Magellan died in the against it ; for they have no goods voyage that he was making round but what are brought from Manilla the world. For after he had passed at an extraordinary dear rate. I am those straits between the south end of the opinion that if any of our of America and Tierra del Fuego nations would seek a trade with them which now bear his name, and had they would not lose their labour, for ranged down in the South Seas on the Spaniards can and will smuggle the back of America, from thence as well as any nation that I know; stretching over to the East Indies he and our Jamaicans are to their profit fell in with the Ladrone Islands, and sensible enough of it. And I have from thence steering east still he fell been informed that Captain Goodlud in with these Philippine Islands, and of London, in a voyage which he made anchored at Luconia, where he warred from Mindanao to China, touched at with the native Indians, to bring some of these islands, and was civilly them in obedience to his master the treated by the Spaniards, who bought King of Spain, and was by them some of his commodities, giving him killed with a poisoned arrow. It is a very good price for the same. There now wholly under the Spaniards, are about twelve or fourteen more large who have several towns there. The islands lying to the southwards of chief is Manilla, which is a large sea Luconia, most of which, as I said be port town near the SE. end, opposite fore, are inhabited by the Spaniards. to the Island Mindoro. It is a place Besides these there are an infinite of great strength and trade ; the two number of small islands of no account ; great Acapulco ships before men and even the great islands, many of tioned fetching from hence all sorts them, are without names, or at least of East Indian commodities, which so variously set down, that I find the are brought hither by foreigners, same islands named by divers names. The Islands of St John and Min especially by the Chinese and Por tuguese. Sometimes the English danao are the southernmost of all merchants of Fort St George send these islands, and are the only their ships thither as it were by islands in all this range that are not stealth, under the charge of Portu subject to the Spaniards. St John's guese pilots and mariners ; for as yet Island is on the east side of Min we cannot get the Spaniards there to danao, and distant from it three or a commerce with us or the Dutch, four leagues, in Lat. about 7° or 8° N. although they have but few ships of This island is in length about thirty their own. This seems to arise from eight leagues, stretching NNW. and a jealousy or fear of discovering the SSE., and in breadth about twenty riches of these islands ; for most if four leagues in the middle of the not all the Philippine Islands are rich island ; the northernmost end is broader, and the southernmost is 2 only one ; unless, indeed, he really narrower. This island is of a good touched first at Samar, to the north, not the east, of Mindanao, 2 This answers fairly enough the 1 Luçonia, or Luzon. description of the eastern part of
201 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 1686. ] height, and is full of many small coming into the Latitude in which we hills. The land at the SE. end, judged the city might be, we found where I was ashore, is of a black fat no canoes or people that might give mould ; and the whole island seems us any umbrage of a city or place of to partake of the same fatness, by the trade near at hand, though we coasted vast number of large trees that it within a league of the shore. The Island Mindanao is the biggest produces, for it looks all over like one great grove. As we were passing of all the Philippine Islands except by the SE. end we saw a canoe of the Luconia. It is about sixty leagues natives under the shore ; therefore long, and forty or fifty broad. The one of our canoes went after to have south end is in about 5° N. , and the spoken with her, but she ran away NW. end reaches almost to 8°. It from us, seeing themselves chased, is a very mountainous island, full of put their canoe ashore, leaving her, hills and valleys. The mould in fled into the woods, nor would be general is deep and black, and extra allured to come to us, although we ordinary fat and fruitful. The sides did what we could to entice them. of the hills are stony, yet productive Besides these men we saw no more enough of very large tall trees. In here, nor sign of any inhabitants at the heart of the country there are this end. When we came aboard our some mountains that yield good gold. ship again, we steered away for the The valleys are well moistened with Island Mindanao, which was now fair pleasant brooks and small rivers of in sight of us ; it being about ten delicate water, and have trees ofdivers leagues distant from this part of St sorts flourishing and green all the John's. The 22d we came within a year. The trees in general are very league of the east side of the island, large, and most of them are of kinds and steered toward the north end, unknown to us. There is one sort keeping on the cast side, till we came whichdeserves particular notice, called into the Lat. of 7° 40′, and there we by the natives libby trees.2 These anchored. Some of our books gave grow wild in great groves of five or us an account that Mindanao city six miles long by the sides of the and isle lie in 7° 40' . We guessed rivers. Of these trees sago is made, that the middle of the island might which the poor country people eat lie in this latitude, but we were at a instead of bread three or four months great loss where to find the city, in the year. This tree, for its body whether on the east or west side. and shape, is much like the palmetto Indeed, had it been a small island, tree or the cabbage tree, but not so lying open to the eastern wind, we tall as the latter. The bark and wood might probably have searched first are hard and thin like a shell, and on the west side ; for commonly the full of white pith like the pith of an islands within the Tropics, or within elder. This tree they cut down and the bounds of the trade-winds, have split it in the middle, and scrape out their harbours on the west side, as all the pith, which they beat lustily best sheltered ; but Mindanao being with a wooden pestle in a great mortar guarded on the east side by St John's or trough, and then put into a cloth Island, we might as reasonably ex or strainer held over a trough, and pect to find the harbour and city on pouring water in among the pith, this side as anywhere else. But they stir it about in the cloth. So the water carries all the substance of Mindanao, which, with a broken but the pith through the cloth down into trough, leaving nothing in the fairly continuous coast line on the the north and east, is deeply penetrated cloth but a light sort of husk which they throw away ; but that which falls on the south- east by Davao Bay, which might easily have misled Dam 1 Hint, foreshadowing. pier into supposing the existence of 2 The sago palm ; Sagus Rumphii. two islands.
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DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XI. into the trough settles in a short time | halves again as near the middle as to the bottom like mud, and then they can. This they leave in the they draw off the water and take up sun two or three days, in which time the muddy substance, wherewith they part of the juicy substance of the tree make cakes, which being baked proves dries away, and then the ends will very good bread. The Mindanao appear full of small threads. The people live three or four months of women, whose employment it is to the year on this food for their bread make the cloth, take hold of those kind. The native Indians of Ternate threads one by one, which rend away and Tidore, ¹ and all the Spice Islands, easily from one end of the trunk to have plenty of these trees, and use the other, in bigness like whited them for food in the same manner. brown threads ; for the threads are The plantain I take to be the king naturally of a determinate bigness, of all fruit, not excepting the cocoa as I observed their cloth to be all of itself. The tree that bears this fruit one substance and equal fineness ; but is about three feet or three feet and it is stubborn when new, wears out a half round, and about ten or twelve soon, and when wet feels a little feet high. These trees are not raised slimy. They make their pieces seven from seed (for they seem not to have or eight yards long, their warp and any), but from the roots of other old woof all one thickness and substance. trees. If these young suckers are The banana tree is exactly like the taken out of the ground and planted plantain for shape and bigness, nor in another place, it will be fifteen easily distinguishable from it but by months before they bear ; but if let its fruit, which is a great deal smaller, stand in their own native soil, they and not above half so long as a plan will bear in twelve months. As soon tain, being also more mellow and soft, as the fruit is ripe, the tree decays, less luscious, yet of a more delicate but then there are many young ones taste. They use this for the making drink oftener than plantains, and it growing up to supply its place. • As the fruit of this tree is of great use is best when used for drink or eaten for food, so is the body no less ser as fruit; but it is not so good for viceable to make cloths ; but this I bread, nor does it eat well at all when never knew till I came to this island. roasted or boiled ; for it is only ne The ordinary people of Mindanao do cessity that makes any use it this wear no other cloth. The tree never way. They grow generally where bearing but once, and so being felled plantains do, being set intermixed when the fruit is ripe, they cut it with them purposely in their plantain down close by the ground if they in walks. I have not seen the nutmeg tend to make cloth with it. One trees anywhere ; but the nutmegs this blow with a macheat, or long_knife, island produces are fair and large, yet will strike it asunder : then they cut they have no great store of them, off the top, leaving the trunk eight being unwilling to propagate them or or ten feet long, stripping off the the cloves, for fear that should invite outer rind, which is thickest towards the Dutch to visit them and bring the lower end. Having stripped two them into subjection, as they have or three of these rinds, the trunk done the rest of the neighbouring becomes in a manner all of one big islands where they grow. For the ness, and of a whitish colour : then Dutch being seated among the Spice they split the trunk in the middle, Islands have monopolised all the trade which being done, they split the two into their own hands, and will not suffer any of the natives to dispose of 1 Two small islands between Celebes it but to themselves alone. Nay, and Gilolo, in the Molucca Passage, they are so careful to preserve it in south of Mindanao. mentioned by their own hands, that they will not Drake. suffer the spice to grow in the unin habited islands, but send soldiers to
203 JEALOUSY OF DUTCH MERCHANTS. 1686. ] The free like nature, as the cabbage tree, the cut the trees down. . . merchants are not suffered to trade to cocoa-nut tree, and the palm. These the Spice Islands, nor to many other branches are about ten or twelve feet places where the Dutch have factories; long, and their stems near the head but, on the other hand, they are suf of the tree as big as a man's arm. fered to trade to some places where On the top of the tree, among the the Dutch Company themselves may branches, the betel nut grows on a not trade, as to Achin particularly; tough stem as big as a man's finger, for there are some princes in the in clusters much as the cocoa nuts Indies who will not trade with the do, and they grow forty or fifty in a Company for fear of them. The sea cluster. This fruit is bigger than a men that go to the Spice Islands are nutmeg, and is much like it, but obliged to bring no spice from thence rounder. It is much used all over for themselves except a small matter the East Indies. This island pro for their own use, about a pound or duces also durians and jacks. The two. Yet the masters of those ships trees that bear the durians are as big do commonly so order their business, as apple trees, full of boughs. The that they often secure a good quan rind is thick and rough ; the fruit is tity, and send it ashore to some place so large that they grow only about near Batavia before they come into the bodies, or on the limbs near the that harbour (for it is always brought body, like the cacao. The fruit is thither first before it is sent to Europe); about the bigness of alarge pumpkin, and if they meet any vessel at sea covered with a thick, green, rough that will buy their cloves, they will rind. When it is ripe, the rind be sell ten or fifteen tons out ofa hundred, gins to turn yellow, but it is not fit and yet seemingly carry their comple to eat till it opens at the top. Then ment to Batavia; for they will pour the fruit in the inside is ripe, and water among the remaining part of sends forth an excellent scent. When their cargo, which will swell them to the rind is opened, the fruit may be that degree that the ship's hold will split into four quarters ; each quarter be as full again as it was before any has several small cells that enclose a were sold. This trick they use when certain quantity of the fruit according ever they dispose of any clandestinely, to the bigness of the cell, for some for the cloves when they first take are larger than others. The largest them in are extraordinary dry, and of the fruit may be as big as a pullet's so will imbibe a great deal of moisture. egg; it is as white as milk and as This is but one instance of many soft as cream, and the taste very de hundreds of little deceitful arts the licious to those that are accustomed Dutch seamen in these parts have to them ; but those who have not among them, of which I have both been used to eat them will dislike seen and heard several. I believe them at first, because they smell like there are nowhere greater thieves, roasted onions. The jack or jaca is and nothing will persuade them to much like the durian, both in bigness discover one another ; for should any and shape. The trees that bear them do it, the rest would certainly knock also are much alike, and so is their him on the head. But to return to manner of the fruits growing ; but the the products of Min lanao. inside is different, for the fruit of the The betel nut is much esteemed durian is white, that of the jack is here, as it is in most places of the yellow and fuller of stones. The East Indies. The betel tree grows durian is most esteemed, yet the jack like the cabbage tree, but it is not so is very pleasant fruit, and the stones big nor so high. The body grows or kernels are good roasted . There straight, about twelve or fourteen feet are many other sorts of grain, roots, high, without leaf or branch, except and fruits in this island, which, to at the head ; there it spreads forth give a particular description of, would long branches, like other trees of the fill up a large volume. In this island
204 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XII. are also many sorts of beasts both | for a week or more ; then they come wild and tame, as horses, bulls and thicker, two or three in a day, bring cows, buffaloes, goats, wild hogs, deer, ing violent gusts of wind and ter monkeys, guanas, lizards, snakes, &c. rible claps of thunder. At last they Of the venomous kind of creatures come so fast, that the wind remains here are scorpions, whose sting is in in the quarter from whence these their tail ; and centipedes, called by tornadoes do rise, which is out of the the English fork-legs, both which are west, and there it settles till October also common in the West Indies, in or November. When these westward Jamaica, and elsewhere. The fowls winds are thus settled, the sky is all of this country are ducks and hens : in mourning, being covered with other tame fowl I have not seen, black clouds, pouring down excessive nor heard of any. The wild fowl rains, sometimes mixed with thunder are pigeons, parrots, paroquets, turtle and lightning, that nothing can be doves, and abundance of small fowls. more dismal ; the winds raging to There are bats as big as a kite. that degree, that the biggest trees There are a great many harbours, are torn up by the roots, and the creeks, and good bays for ships to rivers swell and overflow their banks, ride in ; and rivers navigable for and drown the low land, carrying canoes, proas, or barks, which are all great trees into the sea. Thus it plentifully stored with fish of divers continues sometimes a week together, sorts ; so is also the adjacent sea. before the sun or stars appear. The The chief fish are bonetas, snooks, fiercest of this weather is in the cavallies, breams, mullets, ten-pound latter end of July and in August ; for ers, &c. Here are also plenty of sea then the towns seem to stand in a turtle and small manatee. great pond, and they go from one The weather at Mindanao is tem house to another in canoes. At this perate enough as to heat, for all it time the water carries away all the lies so near the Equator ; and espe filth and nastiness from under their Whilst this tempestuous cially on the borders near the sea. houses. There they commonly enjoy the season lasts, the weather is cold and breezes by day, and cooling land chilly. In September the weather is winds at night. The winds are east more moderate, and the winds are not erly one part of the year and westerly so fierce, nor the rain so violent. The the other. The easterly winds begin air thenceforward begins to be more to blow in October, and it is the mid clear and delightsome ; but then in dle of November before they are the morning there are thick fogs, settled. These winds bring fair continuing till 10 or 11 o'clock, before weather. The westerly winds begin the sun shines out, especially when to blow in May, but are not settled it has rained in the night. In Octo till a month afterwards. The west ber the easterly winds begin to blow winds always bring rain, tornadoes, again, and bring fair weather till and very tempestuous weather. At April. Thus much concerning the the first coming in of these winds natural state of Mindanao. they blow but faintly ; but then the tornadoes rise, one in a day, some times two. These are thunder-showers CHAPTER XII. which commonly come against the wind, bringing with them a contrary wind to what did blow before. After THIS Island is not subject to one the tornadoes are over, the wind prince, neither is the language one shifts about again, and the sky be and the same ; but the people are comes clear ; yet then in the valleys, much alike in colour, strength, and and the sides of the mountains, there stature. They are all or most of rises a thick fog, which covers the them of one religion, which is Maho land. The tornadoes continue thus metanism, and their customs and
THE NATIVES OF MINDANAO. 205 1686. ] manner of living are alike. The their left thumb, for they do never cut Mindanao people, more particularly it, but scrape it often. They are so called, are the greatest nation in endowed with good natural wits, are the island ; and trading by sea with ingenious , nimble, and active when other nations, they are therefore the they are minded ; but generally very more civil.¹ I shall say but little of lazy and thievish, and will not work the rest, being less known to me ; except forced by hunger. This lazi but so much as has come to my ness is natural to most Indians ; but knowledge take as follows. There these people's laziness seems rather are, besides the Mindanayans, the to proceed not so much from their Hilanoons (as they call them), or natural inclinations, as from the the Mountaineers, the Sologus, and severity of their prince, of whom they Alfoores. The Hilanoons live in the stand in great awe : for he dealing heart of the country ; they have little with them very arbitrarily, and tak or no commerce by sea, yet they have ing from them what they get, this proas that row with twelve or four damps their industry, so they never teen oars a-piece. They enjoy the strive to have anything but from hand benefit of the gold mines, and with to mouth. They are generally proud, their gold buy foreign commodities and walk very stately. They are civil of the Mindanao people. They have enough to strangers, and will easily be also plenty of bees-wax, which they acquainted with them, and entertain exchange for other commodities. The them with great freedom ; but they are Sologus inhabit the NW. end of the implacable to their enemies, and very island. They are the least nation of revengeful if they are injured, fre all ; they trade to Manilla in proas, quently poisoning socretly those that and to some of the neighbouring have affronted them. They wear but islands, but have no commerce with few clothes ; their heads are circled the Mindanao people. The Alfoores with a short turban, fringed or laced are the same with the Mindanayans, at both ends ; it goes once about the and were formerly under the subjec head, and is tied in a knot, the laced tion of the Sultan of Mindanao, but ends hanging down. They wear frocks were divided between the Sultan's and breeches, but no stockings nor children, and have of late had a Sul shoes. The women are fairer than the tan of their own ; but having by marriage contracted an alliance with men, and their hair is black and long ; the Sultan of Mindanao, this has which they tie in a knot, that hangs occasioned that prince to claim them back in their polls.2 They are more again as his subjects ; and he made round -visaged than the men, and war with them a little after we went generally well featured ; only their away, as I afterwards understood. noses are very small , and so low be The Mindanayans, properly so tween their eyes, that in some of the called, are men of mean statures, female children the rising that should be small limbs, straight bodies, and between the eyes is scarce discernible ; little heads. Their faces are oval, neither is there any sensible rising in their foreheads flat, with black small their foreheads . At a distance they eyes, short low noses, pretty large appear very well, but being nigh mouths ; their lips thin and red, their these impediments are very obvious. teeth black yet very sound, their They have very small limbs. They hair black and straight, the colour wear but two garments ; a frock, and of their skin tawny, but inclining to a sort of petticoat : the petticoat is a brighter yellow than some other only a piece of cloth sewed both ends Indians, especially the women. They together : but it is made two feet too have a custom to wear their thumb big for their waists , so that they may nails very long, especially that on wear either end uppermost : that part 1 The better civilised.
2 Behind their heads.
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DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XII , that comes up to their waists, because all the entertainment he must expect it is so much too big, they gather in gratis. The richest men's wives are their hands and twist it till it sits allowed the freedom to converse with close to their waists, tucking in the her pagally in public, and may_give twisted part between the waist and or receive presents from him. Even the edge of the petticoat, which keeps the Sultan's and , the General's wives, it close. The frock sits loose about who are always cooped up, will yet them , and reaches down a little below look out of their cages when a stranger the waist. The sleeves are a great passes by, and demand of him if he deal longer than their arms, and so wants a pagally : and, to invite him small at the end, that their hands to their friendship, will send a pre will scarce go through. Being on, sent of tobacco and betel-nut to him the sleeve sits in folds about the by their servants. wrist ; wherein they take great pride. The chief city on this island is The better sort of people have their called by the same name of Mindanao. garments made of long-cloth ; but It is seated on the south side of the the ordinary sort wear cloth made of island in Lat. 7° 20′ N. on the banks plantain-tree, which they call saggen ; of a small river about two miles from by which name they call the plantain. the sea. The manner of building is They have neither stocking nor shoe ; somewhat strange, yet generally used and the women have very small feet. in this part of the East Indies. Their The women are very desirous of the houses are all built on posts about 14, company of strangers, especially of 16, 18, or 20 feet high. These posts white men ; and doubtless would be are bigger or less, according to the very familiar, if the custom of the intended magnificence of the super country did not debar them from that structure. They have but one floor, freedom which seems coveted bythem. but many partitions or rooms, and a Yet from the highest to the lowest ladder or stairs to go up out of the they are allowed liberty to converse streets. The roof is large, and cover with or treat strangers in the sighted with palmetto or palm leaves. So of their husbands. There is a kind there is a clear passage like a piazza of begging custom at Mindanao that (but a filthy one) under the house. I have not met elsewhere with in all Some of the poorer people that keep my travels, and which I believe is ducks or hens have a fence made owing to the little trade they have ; round the posts of their houses, which is thus : when strangers arrive with a door to go in and out ; and here, the Mindanao men will come this under-room serves for no other aboard, and invite them to their use. Some use this place for the com houses, and inquire who has a com mon draught of their houses ; but, rade (which word I believe they have building mostly close by the river in from the Spaniards) or a pagally, and all parts of the Indies, they make the who has not. A comrade is a familiar river receive all the filth of their male friend ; a pagally is an innocent houses ; and at the time of the land platonic friend of the other sex. All floods all is washed very clean. The strangers are in a manner obliged to Sultan's house is much bigger than accept of this acquaintance and any of the rest. It stands on about familiarity, which must be first pur 180 great posts or trees, a great deal chased with a small present, and higher than the common building, afterwards confirmed with some gift with great broad stairs made to go up. or otherto continue the acquaintance : In the first room he has about twenty and as often as the stranger goes iron guns, all saker and minion,3 ashore, he is welcome to his comrade's 1 Closet. or pagally's house, where he may be entertained for his money, to eat, 2 That is, all of small calibre ; the drink, or sleep ; and complimented " saker extraordinary," with a charge with tobacco and betel-nut, which is of 5 lbs. of powder, carried a 7-16.
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS AT MINDANAO. 207 1686.1 placed on field-carriages. The Gene- | the river from morning till night— ral and other great men have some some easing themselves, others wash guns also in their houses. About ing their bodies or clothes. If they twenty paces from the Sultan's house come into the river purposely to wash there is a small low house built pur- their clothes, they strip and stand posely for the reception of ambassa- naked till they have done, then put dors or merchant strangers. This them on and march out again. Both also stands on posts, but the floor is men and women take great delight in not raised above three or four feet swimming and washing themselves, above the ground, and is neatly mat- being bred to it from their infancy. ted purposely for the Sultan and his In the city of Mindanao they spoke Council to sit on, for they use no two languages indifferently, their own chairs, but sit cross-legged like tailors Mindanao language and the Malay ; on the floor. The common food at but in other parts of the island they Mindanao is rice or sago, and a small speak only their proper language, fish or two. The better sort eat buf having little commerce abroad. They falo, or fowls, ill dressed, and abun have schools, and instruct the chil dance of rice with it. They use no dren to read and write, and bring spoons to eat their rice, but every them up in the Mahometan religion. man takes a handful out of the platter, Therefore many of the words, especi and by wetting his hand in water ally their prayers, are in Arabic, and that it may not stick to his hand, many of the words of civility the squeezes it into a lump as hard as same as in Turkey ; and especially possibly he can make it, and then when they meet in the morning, or crams it into his mouth. They all take leave of each other, they express strive to make these lumps as big as themselves in that language. Many their mouths can receive them, and of the old people, both men and seem to vie with each other and glory women, can speak Spanish, for the in taking in the biggest lump, so that Spaniards were formerlysettled among sometimes they almost choke them them, and had several forts on this selves. They always wash after meals, island ; and then they sent two friars or if they touch anything that is un to this city to convert the Sultan of clean ; for which reason they spend Mindanao and his people. At that abundance of water in their houses. time these people began to learn This water, with the washing of their Spanish, and the Spaniards encroach dishes, and what other filth they ed on them and endeavoured to bring make, they pour down near their fire them into subjection ; and probably place, for their chambers are not before this time had brought them all boarded but floored with split bam under their yoke if they themselves boos like laths, so that the water had not been drawn off from this presently falls underneath their dwell island to Manilla to resist theChinese, ing-rooms, where it breeds maggots who threatened to invade them there. and makes a prodigious stink. Be When the Spaniards were gone, the sides this filthiness, the sick people old Sultan of Mindanao, father to the ease themselves and make water in present, in whose time it was, razed their chambers, there being a small and demolished their forts, brought hole made purposely in the floor to away their guns, and sent away the let it drop through ; but healthy friars ; and since that time [they] will sound people commonly ease them not suffer the Spaniards to settle on selves and make water in the river. the islands. They are now most For that reason you shall always see afraid of the Dutch, being sensible abundance of people of both sexes in how they have enslaved many of the neighbouring islands. For that rea ball ; the smallest saker, with a 3 lb. son they have a long time desired the minion The a 4 lb. ball. charge, English to settle among them, and was still a smaller piece, have offered them any convenient
208
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XII. place to build a fort in, as the General | good-natured, but overruled by those himself told us ; giving this reason, about him. He has a queen, and that they do not find the English so keeps about twenty women, or wives, encroaching as the Dutch or Spanish. more, in whose company he spends The Dutch are no less jealous of their most of his time. He has one daughter admitting the English, for they are by his Sultaness or queen, and a great sensible what detriment it would be many sons and daughters bythe rest. to them if the English should settle These walk about the streets, and here. would be always begging things of us ; There are but few tradesmen at the but it is reported that the young city of Mindanao. The chief trades Princess is kept in a room and never are goldsmiths, blacksmiths, and car stirs out, and that she did never see penters. There are but two or three any man but her father and Raja goldsmiths ; these will work in gold Laut her uncle, being then about or silver, and make anything that you fourteen years old. When the Sultan desire ; but they have no shop fur visits his friends, he is carried in a nished with ware ready for sale. Here small couch on four men's shoulders, are several blacksmiths who work with eight or ten armed men to guard very well considering the tools that him ; but he never goes far this way, they work with.¹ for the country is very woody, and The Mindanao men have many they have but little paths, which ren wives, but what ceremonies are used ders it the less commodious. When when they marry I know not. There he takes his pleasure by water, he car is commonly a great feast made by ries some of his wives along with him . the bridegroomto entertain his friends, The proas that are built for this pur and the most part of the night is spent pose are large enough to entertain in mirth. fifty or sixty persons or more. The The Sultan is absolute in his power hull is neatly built, with a round over all his subjects. He is but a poor head and stern, and over the hull prince ; for, as I mentioned be there is a small slight house built fore, they have but little trade, and with bamboos ; the sides are made up therefore cannot be rich. If the Sul with split bamboos about four feet tan understands that any man has high, with little windows in them of money, if it be but twenty dollars, the same to open and shut at their which is a great matter among them, pleasure. The roof is almost flat, he will send to borrow so much money, neatly thatched with palmetto leaves. pretending urgent occasions for it, This house is divided into two or and they dare not deny him. Some three small partitions or chambers, times he will send to sell one thing one particularly for himself. This is or another that he has to dispose of neatly matted underneath and round to such whom he knows to have the sides, and there is a carpet and money, and they must buy it and pillows for him to sleep on. The give him his price ; and if afterwards second room is for his women, much he has occasion for the same thing he like the former. The third is for the must have it if he sends for it. He servants, who tend them with tobacco is but a little man, between fifty and and betel-nut, for they are always sixty years old, and by relation very chewing or smoking. The Sultan has a brother called 1 The men there are described as Raja Laut, a brave man. He is the accustomed to the use of the axe and second man in the kingdom . All adzc. They also built serviceable strangers that come hither to trade ships, their principal article of export must make their address to him, for being gold, bees-wax, and tobacco. all sea affairs belong to him. He The natives were much subject to a licenses strangers to import or export kind of leprosy, which showed itself any commodity, and it is by his per mission that the natives themselves in a dry scurf all over their bodies.
209 RELIGIOUS RITES OF THE NATIVES. 1686. ] are suffered to trade ; nay, the very The religion of these people is Friday is their fishermen must take a permit from Mahometanism. him ; so that there is no man can Sabbath ; but I did never see any come into the river or go out but by difference that they make between his leave. He is two or three years this day and any other day, only the younger than the Sultan, and a little Sultan himself goes then to his man like him. He has eight women, mosque twice. Raja Laut never goes by some of whom he has issue. He to the mosque, but prays at certain has only one son, about twelve or hours, eight or ten times in a day ; fourteen years old, who was circum wherever he is, he is very punctual to cised while we were there. His eldest his canonical hours, and ifhe beaboard son died a little before we came will go ashore on purpose to pray. For thither, for whom he was still in no business nor company hinders him great heaviness. If he had lived a from his duty. Whether he is at little longer he should have married home or abroad, in a house or in a the young Princess ; but whether field , he leaves all his company, and this second son must have her I know goes about 100 yards off, and there not, for I did never hear any dis kneels down to his devotion. He course about it. Raja Laut is a very first kisses the ground, then prays sharp man ; he speaks and writes aloud, and divers times in his prayers Spanish, which he learned in his he kisses the ground, and does the youth. He has, by often conversing same when he leaves off. His ser with strangers, got a great insight vants, and his wives and children into the customs of other nations, and talk and sing, or play how they by Spanish books has some knowledge please, all the time, but himself is of Europe. He is General of the Min very serious. The meaner sort of danayans, and is accounted an expert people have little devotion ; I did soldier and a very stout man ; and the never see any of them at their prayers, women in their dances sing many or go into a mosque. In the Sultan's songs in his praise. The Sultan of mosque there is a great drum with Mindanao sometimes makes war with but one head, called a gong, which is his neighbours the Mountaineers or instead of a clock. This gong is Alfoores. Their weapons are swords, beaten at 12 o'clock, at three, six, lances, and some hand cressets.1 The and nine ; a man being appointed for cresset is a small thing like a bayonet, that service. He has a stick as big which they always wear in war or as a man's arm , with a great knob at peace, at work or play, from the the end, bigger than a man's fist, greatest of them to the poorest and made with cotton, bound fast with meanest persons. They never meet small cords ; with this he strikes the each other so as to have a pitched gong as hard as he can about twenty battle, but they build small works or strokes, beginning to strike leisurely forts of timber, wherein they plant the first five or six strokes ; then he little guns, and lie in sight of each strikes faster, and at last strikes as othertwoorthree months, skirmishing fast as he can, and then he strikes every day in small parties, and some again slower and slower so many more times surprising a breastwork ; and strokes ; thus he rises and falls three whatever side is like to be worsted, if times, and then leaves off till three they have no probability to escape by hours after. This is done night and flight, they sell their lives as dear as day. they can ; for there is seldom any They circumcise the males at eleven quarter given, but the conqueror cuts or twelve years of age or older ; and many are circumcised at once. This and hacks his enemies to pieces. ceremony is performed with a great 1 Creeses ; the Malay dagger, with deal of solemnity. There had been zig-zag blade, often poisoned at the no circumcision for some years before our being here, and then there was point. 0
210 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. (CHAP. XII. one for Raja Laut's son. They choose | clusion of which the richest men act, to have a general circumcision when and at last the General, and then the the Sultan or General or some other Sultan concludes this ceremony. He great person has a son fit to be cir and the General with some other cumcised ; for with him a great many great men, are in armour, but the more are circumcised. There is rest have none. After this the Sultan notice given about eight or ten days returns home, accompanied with before, for all men to appear in arms, abundance of people, who wait on and great preparation is made against him there till they are dismissed. But at the time when we were the solemn day. In the morning, before the boys are circumcised, pre there there was an after-game to be sents are sent to the father of the played ; for the General's son being child that keeps the feast, which, as then circumcised, the Sultan in I said before, is either the Sultan tended to give him a second visit in or some great person ; and, about the night ; so they all waited to 10 or 11 o'clock, the Mahometan attend him thither. The General priest does his office. After this, also provided to meet him in the best most of the men, both in city and manner, and therefore desired Cap country, being in arms before the tain Swan with his men to attend house, begin to act as if they were him. Accordingly Captain Swan or engaged with an enemy, having dered us to get our guns, and wait at such arms as I described. Only one the General's house till further orders. acts at a time, the rest make a great So about forty of us waited till 8 ring of 200 or 300 yards round o'clock in the evening, when the about him. He that is to exercise General, with Captain Swan, and comes into the ring with a great about 1000 men, went to meet the shriek or two, and a horrid look ; Sultan, with abundance of torches then he fetches two or three large that made it as light as day. The stately strides, and falls to work. He manner of the march was thus : first holds his broadsword in one hand, of all there was a pageant, ¹ and upon and his lance in the other, and tra it two dancing-women gorgeously verses his ground, leaping from one apparelled, with coronets on their side of the ring to the other, and in a heads full of glittering spangles, and menacing posture and look, bids de pendants of the same hanging down fiance to the enemy whom his fancy over their breasts and shoulders. frames to him, for there is nothing These are women bred up purposely but air to oppose him. Then he for dancing ; their feet and legs are stamps and shakes his head, and grin but little employed, except some ning with his teeth, makes many rue times to turn round very gently ; but ful faces. Then he throws his lance, their hands, arms, head, and body and nimbly snatches out his cresset, are in continual motion, especially with which he hacks and hews the their arms, which they turn and twist air like a madman, often shrieking. so strangely, that you would think At last, being almost tired with them to be made without bones. Be motion, he flies to the middle of the sides the two dancing-women, there ring, where he seems to have his were two old women in the pageant, enemy at his mercy ; and with two holding each a lighted torch in their or three blows cuts on the ground as hands close by the dancing-women, if he was cutting off his enemy's by which light the glittering spangles head. By this time he is all of a appeared very gloriously. This pa sweat, and withdraws triumphantly geant was carried by six lusty men. out of the ring, and presently an Then came six or seven torches, light other enters with the like shrieks and ing the General and Captain Swan, gestures. Thus they continue com who marched side by side next ; and bating their imaginary enemy all the rest of the day ; towards the con 1 A decorated or triumphal chariot.
211 A GREAT PROCESSION. 1686. ] we that attended Captain Swan fol without clappers ; sixteen in number, lowed close after, marching in order and their weight increasing gradually six and six abreast, with each man from about three to ten pounds' his gun on his shoulder, and torches weight. These were set in a row on on each side. After us came twelve a table in the General's house, where of the General's men, with old Span for seven or eight days together before ish matchlocks, marching four in a the circumcision day they were struck row ; after them about forty lances, each with a little stick for the big and behind them as many with great gest part of the day, making a great swords, marching all in order. After noise ; and they ceased that morning. them came abundance only with cres So these dancing-women sung them sets by their sides, who marched up selves, and danced to their own music. close without any order. When we After this the General's women and came near the Sultan's house the the Sultan's sons and his nieces Sultan and his men met us, and we danced. Two of the Sultan's nieces wheeled off to let them pass. The were about eighteen or nineteen years Sultan had three pageants went be old, the other two were three or four fore him. In the first pageant were years younger. These young ladies four of his sons, who were about ten were very richly dressed with loose or eleven years old ; they had gotten garments of silk, and small coronets abundance of small stones, which on their heads. They were much they roguishly threw about on the fairer than any women that I did ever people's heads. In the next were see there, and very well featured ; four young maidens, nieces to the and their noses, though but small, Sultan, being his sisters ' daughters ; yet higher than the other women's, and in the third there were three of and very well proportioned. When the Sultan's children, not above six the ladies had very well diverted years old. The Sultan himself fol themselves and the company with lowed next, being carried in his couch, dancing, the General caused us to which was not like your Indian fire some sky-rockets that were made palanquins, but open, and very little by his and Captain Swan's orders and ordinary. A multitude of people purposely for this night's solemnity ; came after, without any order ; but and after that the Sultan and his as soon as he was past by, the General retinue went away with a few atten and Captain Swan and all our men dants, and we all broke up , and thus closed in just behind the Sultan, and ended this day's solemnity. so all marched together to the Gene They are not, as I said before, very ral's house. We came thither be curious or strict in observing any days tween ten and eleven o'clock, where or times of particular devotion, ex the biggest part of the company were cept it be the Ramdam time, ¹ as we immediately dismissed ; but the Sul call it. The Ramdam time was then tan and his children and his nieces, in August, as I take it, for it was and some other persons of quality, shortly after our arrival here. In entered the General's house. They this time they fast all day, and about were met at the head of the stairs by 7 o'clock in the evening they spend the General's women, who with a near an hour in prayer. Towards great deal of respect conducted them the latter end of their prayer they into the house. Captain Swan and loudly invoke their Prophet for about we that were with him followed after. a quarter of an hour, both old and It was not long before the General young bawling out very strangely, as caused his dancing-women to enter if they intended to fright him out of the room and divert the company his sleepiness or neglect of them. with that pastime. I had forgot to After their prayer is ended, they tell you that they have none but vocal 1 The Fast of Ramadan, the Maho music here, by what I could learn, except only a row of kind of bells metan Lent.
212
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XIII. spend some time in feasting before make another pair, with threads they take their repose. Thus they pointed with some other hair, which do every day for a whole month at was immediately done, and then he least, for sometimes it is two or three was well pleased. days longer before the Ramdam ends ; for it begins at the new moon, and lasts till they see the next new moon, CHAPTER XIII. which sometimes in thick, hazy weather is not till three or four days after the change, as it happened HAVING in the two last Chapters while I was at Achin, where they given some account of the natural, continued the Ramdam till the new civil, and religious state of Mindanao, moon's appearance. The next day I shall now go on with the prosecution after they have seen the new moon, of our affairs during our stay there. the guns are all discharged about It was in a bay on the NE. side of noon, and then the time ends. A the island that we came to an anchor, main part of their religion consists in as has been said. We lay in this bay washing often, to keep themselves but one night and part of the next from being defiled, or after they are day. Yet there we got speech with defiled to cleanse themselves again. some of the natives, who by signs They also take great care to keep made us understand that the city themselves from being polluted by Mindanao was on the west side of the tasting or touching anything that is island. We endeavoured to persuade accounted unclean ; therefore swine's one of them to go with us to be our flesh is very abominable to them ; pilot, but he would not ; therefore in nay, any one that has either tasted of the afternoon we loosed from hence, swine's flesh, or touched those crea steering again to the SE. , having the tures, is not permitted to come into wind at SW. When we came to the their houses in many days after ; and SE. end of the Island Mindanao, we there is nothing will scare them more saw two small islands about three than a swine. Yet there are wild leagues distant from it. We might hogs in the island, and those so plen have passed between them and the tiful that they will come in troops main island, as we learned since ; but out of the woods in the night into not knowing them nor what dangers the very city, and come under their we might encounter there, we chose houses, to rummage up and down the rather to sail to the eastward of them. filth that they find there. The natives But meeting very strong westerly therefore would even desire us to lie winds, we got nothing forward in in wait for the hogs to destroy them, many days. In this time we first which we did frequently by shooting saw the Islands Meangis, which are them and carrying them presently on about sixteen leagues distant from the board ; but were prohibited their Mindanao, bearing SE. The 4th of houses afterwards. And now I am July we got into a deep hay, four on this subject, I cannot omit a story leagues NW. from the two small concerning the General. He once islands before mentioned. But the desired to have a pair of shoes made night before, in a violent tornado, after the English fashion, though he our bark, being unable to beat any did very seldom wear any ; so one of longer, bore away ; which put us in our men made him a pair, which the some pain for fear she was overset, as General liked very well. Afterwards we had like to have been ourselves. somebody told him, that the threads We anchored on the SW. side of the wherewith the shoes were sewed were bay, in fifteen fathoms water, about pointed with hog's bristles. This put a cable's length from the shore. Here him into a great passion ; so he sent the shoes to the man that made them, 1 The Serangani Islands, off the and sent him withal more leather to southernmost point of Mindanao.
1686. ] A VISIT FROM RAJA LAUT. 213 we were forced to shelter ourselves | two miles from the shore. We fired from the violence of the weather, seven or nine guns, I remember not which was so boisterous with rains well which, and were answered again and tornadoes and a strong westerly with three from the shore, for which wind, that we were very glad to find we gave one again. Immediately after this place to anchor in, being the our coming to an anchor, Raja Laut only shelter on this side from the and one of the Sultan's sons came off west winds. On the west side of the in a canoe, being rowed with ten oars, bay, the land is of a mean height, and demanded in Spanish what we with a large savannah bordering on were and from whence we came. Mr the sea, and stretching from the mouth Smith (he who was taken prisoner at of the bay a great way to the west Leon in Mexico) answered in the same ward. This savannah abounds with language that we were English, that longgrass, and it is plentifully stocked we had been a great while out of with deer. The adjacent woods are a England. They told us that we were covert for them in the heat of the welcome, and asked us a great many day; but mornings and evenings they questions about England, especially feed in the open plains, as thick as in concerning our East India merchants, our parks in England . I never saw and whether we were sent by them to anywhere such plenty of wild deer, settle a factory here. Mr Smith told though I have met with them in them that we came hither onlyto buy several parts of America, both in the provision. They seemed a little dis North and South Seas. The deer live contented when they understood that here pretty peaceably and unmolested, we were not come to settle among for there are no inhabitants on that them ; for they had heard of our ar side of the bay. We visited this rival on the east side of the island a savannah every morning, and killed great while before, and entertained as many deer as we pleased, sometimes hopes that we were sent purposely out sixteen or eighteen in a day; and we of England hither to settle a trade did eat nothing but venison all the with them ; which it should seem time we stayed here. We saw a great they are very desirous of, for Captain many plantations by the sides of the Goodlud had been here not long be mountains on the east side of the fore to treat with them about it, and bay, and we went to one of them, in when he went away he told them, as hopes to learn of the inhabitants they said, that in a short time they whereabouts the city was, that we might expect an ambassador from might not oversail it in the night, England to make a full bargain with them. Indeed, upon mature thoughts but they fled from us. We lay here till the 12th before the I should think we could not have winds abated of their fury, and then done better than to have complied we sailed from hence, directing our with the desire they seemed to have course to the westward. Being now of our settling here, and to have taken past the SE. part of the island, we up our quarters among them. For as coasted down on the south side, and thereby we might better have con we saw abundance of canoes a-fishing, sulted our own profit and satisfaction and now and then a small village. than by the other loose roving way Neither were these inhabitants afraid of life ; so it might probably have of us as the former, but came aboard ; proved of public benefit to our nation, yet we could not understand them, and been a means of introducing an nor they us, but by signs ; and when English settlement and trade, not we mentioned the word Mindanao, only here, but through several of the they would point towards it. The spice islands which lie in its neigh 18th of July we arrived before the bourhood. For the Islands Meangis, River of Mindanao. We anchored which I mentioned in the beginning right against the river in fifteen of this Chapter, lie within twenty These are fathoms water, clear hard sand, about leagues of Mindanao.
214 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XIII. three small islands that abound with | sent out of any such design of settling, gold and cloves, if I may credit my yet we were as well provided, or author, ¹ Prince Jeoly, who was born better, considering all circumstances, on one of them, and was at this time than if we had. For there was a slave in the city of Mindanao. He scarce any useful trade but some might have been purchased by us of or others of us understood it. We his master for a small matter, as he had sawyers, carpenters, joiners, was afterwards by Mr Moody, who brickmakers, bricklayers, shoemakers, came hither to trade, and laded a tailors, & c.; we only wanted a good ship with clove bark ; and by trans- smith for great work, which we porting him home to his own country might have had at Mindanao. We we might have gotten a trade there. were very well provided with iron, But of Prince Jeoly I shall speak lead, and all sorts of tools, as saws, more hereafter. These islands are as axes, hammers, &c. We had powder yet probably unknown to the Dutch, and shot enough, and very good who, as I said before, endeavour to small arms. If we had designed to engross all the spice into their own build a fort, we could have spared hands. There was another oppor- eight or ten guns out of our ship, and tunity offered us here of settling on men enough to have managed it, and another spice island that was very any affair of trade beside. We had well inhabited ; for the inhabitants also a great advantage above raw fearing the Dutch, and understand- men that are sent out of England into ing that the English were settling at these places, who proceed usually too Mindanao, their Sultan sent his cautiously, coldly, and formally, to nephew to Mindanao while we were compass any considerable design, there to invite us thither. Captain which experience better teaches than Swan conferred with him about it any rules whatsoever ; besides the divers times, and I do believe he had danger of their lives in so great and some_inclination to accept the offer ; sudden a change of air, whereas we and I am sure most of the men were were all inured to hot climates, hard for it ; but this never came to a head ened by many fatigues, and in gene for want of a true understanding be- ral daring men, and such as would tween Captain Swan and his men, as not be easily baffled. To add one may be declared hereafter. Besides thing more, our men were almost the benefit which might accrue from tired, and began to desire a quietus this trade with Meangis and other est ; and therefore they would gladly spice islands, the Philippine Islands have seated themselves anywhere. themselves, by a little care and in- We had a good ship, too, and enough dustry, might have afforded us a very of us (besides what might have been beneficial trade ; and all these trades spared to manage our new settlement) might have been managed from Min- to bring the news with the effects to danao by settling there first. For the owners in England ; for Captain that island lies very convenient for Swan had already £5000 in gold, trading either to the Spice Islands or which he and his merchants received to the rest of the Philippine Islands ; for goods sold mostly to Captain since, as its soil is much of the same Harris and his men, which if he had nature with either of them, so it lies, laid but part of it out in spice, as as it were, inthe centre of the gold and probably he might have done, would spice trade in these parts ; the islands have satisfied the merchants to their north of Mindanao abounding most hearts' content. So much by way of in gold, and those south of Meangis digression. As to the capacity in spice. To proceed therefore with our first we were then in of settling ourselves reception at Mindanao. Raja Laut and his nephew sat still in their at Mindanao, although we were not canoe and would not come aboard us, ¹ Authority, informant. because, as they said, they had ne
215 SCHEMES OF THE EAST INDIA COMPANY. 1686.] orders for it from the Sultan. After away. Then Mr More was conducted about half-an-hour's discourse they all the way, with torches and armed took their leaves, first inviting Cap men, till he came to the house where tain Swan ashore, and promising him the Sultan was. The Sultan, with to assist him in getting provision, eight or ten men of his Council, were which they said at present was scarce, seated on carpets waiting his coming. but in three or four months' time the The present that Mr More brought rice would be gathered in, and then was laid down before them, and was he might have as much as he pleased, very kindly accepted by the Sultan, and that in the meantime he might who caused Mr More to sit down secure his ship in some convenient by them, and asked a great many place for fear of the westerly winds, questions of him. The discourse which they said would be very violent was in Spanish by an interpre at the latter end of this month and all ter. This conference lasted about the next, as we found them. We did an hour, and then he was dismissed, not know the quality of these two and returned again to Raja Laut's persons till after they were gone, else house. There was a supper provided we should have fired some guns at for him and the boat's crew, after their departure. When they were which he returned aboard. gone, a certain officer under the Sul The next day the Sultan sent for tan came aboard and measured our Captain Swan. He immediately went ship, a custom derived from the ashore, with a flag flying in the boat's Chinese, who always measure the head, and two trumpets sounding all length and breadth and the depth of the way. When he came ashore he the hold of all ships that come to was met at his landing by two prin load there, by which means they cipal officers, guarded along with sol know how much each ship will carry.diers, and abundance of people gazing But for what reason this custom is to see him. The Sultan waited for used either by the Chinese or Minda- him in his chamber of audience, where nao men I could never learn, unless Captain Swan was treated with to the Mindanayans design by this means bacco and betel, which was all his to improve their skill in shipping, entertainment. The Sultan sent for against they have a trade. Captain two English letters for Captain Swan Swan, considering that the season of to read, purposely to let him know the year would oblige us to spend that our East India merchants did some time at this island, thought it design to settle here, and that they convenient to make what interest he had already sent a ship hither. One of could with the Sultan, who might these letters was senttothe Sultanfrom afterwards either obstruct or advance England by the East India merchants. his designs. He therefore immedi- The chief thing contained in it, as I re ately provided a present to send member--for I sawit afterwards in the ashore to the Sultan, viz. , three yards Secretary's hand, who was very proud of scarlet cloth, three yards of broad to show it to us-was to desire some gold lace, a Turkish scimitar, and a privileges in order to the building of pair of pistols ; and to Raja Laut he a fort there. This letter was written sent three yards of scarlet cloth and in a very fair hand, and between each three yards of silver lace. This pre- line there was a gold line drawn. The sent was carried by Mr Henry More other letter was left by Captain Good in the evening. He was first con- lud, directed to any Englishmen who ducted to Raja Laut's house, where should happen to come thither. This he remained till report thereof was related wholly to trade, giving an made to the Sultan, who immedi- account at what rate he had agreed ately gave order for all things to be with them for goods of the island, made ready to receive him. About 9 and how European goods should be o'clock at night a messenger came sold to them ; with an account of from the Sultan to bring the present their weights and measures, and their
216 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XIII. difference from ours. Captain Good he did once punish his chief mate Mr lud's letter concluded thus : " Trust Tait, he that came captain of the none ofthem, for they are all thieves, bark to Mindanao. Indeed at that but tace is Latin for a candle. ' We time Captain Swan had his men as understood afterwards that Captain much under command as if he had Goodlud was robbed of some goods by been in a king's ship ; and had he one of the General's men, and that he known how to use his authority, he that robbed him was fled into the might have led them to any settle mountains, and could not be found ment and have brought them to assist while Captain Goodlud was here. him in any design he had pleased. But the fellow returning to the city Captain Swan being dismissed from some time after our arrival here, Raja the Sultan with abundance of civility, after about two hours ' discourse with Laut brought him bound to Captain Swan, and told him what he had him, went thence to Raja Laut's done, desiring him to punish him for house. Raja Laut had then some it as he pleased ; but Captain Swan difference with the Sultan, and there excused himself and said it did not fore he was not present at the Sultan's belong to him, therefore he would reception of our Captain, but waited have nothing to do with it. How his return, and treated him and all ever the General Raja Laut would not his men with boiled rice and fowls. pardon him, but punished him ac He then told Captain Swan again, cording to their own custom. He was and urged it to him, that it would be stripped stark naked in the morning best to get his ship into the river as at sun-rising, and bound to a post, soon as he could, because ofthe usual so that he could not stir hand nor tempestuous weather at this time of foot but as he was moved, and was the year, and that he should want no placed with his face eastward against assistance to further him in anything. the sun. In the afternoon they He told him also that as we must of turned his face towards the west that necessity stay here some time, so our the sun might still be in his face, and men would often come ashore ; and he thus he stood all day parched in the therefore desired him to warn his men sun, which shines here excessively to be careful to give no affront to the hot, and tormented with the mosqui natives, who, he said, were very re toes or gnats ; after this the General vengeful. That their customs being would have killed him if Captain different from ours, he feared that Swan had consented to it. Their Captain Swan's men might some time common way of punishment is to or other offend them, though igno strip them in this manner and place rantly ; that therefore he gave him them in the sun, but sometimes they this friendly warning to prevent it ; lay them flat on their backs on the that his house should always be open sand, which is very hot, where they to receive him or any of his men ; and remain a whole day in the scorching that he, knowing our customs, would sun, with the mosquitoes biting never be offended at anything. After them all the time. This action a great deal of such discourse he dis of the General in offering Captain missed the Captain and his company, Swan the punishment of the thief, who took their leave and came aboard. caused Captain Swan afterwards to Captain Swan having seen the two make him the same offer of his letters, did not doubt that the English men when any had offended the Min did design to settle a factory here danao men, but the General left such therefore he did not much scruplei offenders to be punished by Captain the honesty of these people, but im Swan as he thought convenient. So mediately ordered us to get the ship that for the least offence Captain into the river. The river upon which Swan punished his men, and that in the city of Mindanao stands is but the sight of the Mindanayans ; and I think sometimes only for revenge, as 1 Doubt, suspect.
217 HOSPITALITY OF THE MINDANAYANS. 1686. ] small, and has not above ten or eleven Captain Swan did seldom go into feet of water on the bar at a spring any house at first but into Raja Laut's ; tide ; therefore we lightened our ship, there he dined commonly every day ; and the spring coming on, we with and as many of his men as were much ado got her into the river, being ashore, and had no money to entertain assisted by fifty or sixty Mindanayan themselves, resorted thither about fishermen who lived at the mouth of 12 o'clock, where they had rice the river, Raja Laut himself being enough boiled and well dressed, and aboard our ship to direct them. We some scraps of fowls or bits of buffalo carried her about a quarter of a mile dressed very nastily. Captain Swan up within the mouth of the river, and was served a little better, and his two there moored her head and stern in a trumpeters sounded all the time that hole, where we always rode afloat. he was at dinner. After dinner Raja After this the citizens of Mindanao Laut would sit and discourse with came frequently aboard to invite our him most part of the afternoon. It men to their houses and to offer us was now the Ramdam time, therefore pagallies. It was a long time since the General excused himself that he any of us had received such friend could not entertain our Captain with ship, and therefore we were the more dances and other pastimes as he in easily drawn to accept of their kind tended to do when this solemn time nesses ; and in a very short time most was past, besides, it was the very of our men got a comrade or two, and height of the wet season, and there as many pagallies, especially such of fore not so proper for pastimes. When the Ramdam time was over, us as had good clothes and store of gold, as many had who were of the and the dry time set in a little, the number of those that accompanied General, to oblige Captain Swan, en Captain Harris over the Isthmus of tertained him every nightwith dances. Darien, the rest of us being poor The dancing-women that are pur enough. Nay, the very poorest and posely bred up to it, and make it meanest of us could hardly pass the their trade, I have already described. streets but we were even hauled by But besides them, all the women in force into their houses to be treated general are much addicted to dancing. by them, although their treats were They dance forty or fifty at once, and but mean, viz. , tobacco or betel-nut, that standing all round in a ring or a little sweet-spiced water. Yet joined hand in hand, and singing and their seeming sincerity, simplicity, keeping time. But they never budge and the manner of bestowing these out of their places, nor make any gifts, made them very acceptable. motion till the chorus is sung ; then When we came to their houses they all at once they throw out one leg would always be praising the English, and bawl out aloud, and sometimes as declaring that the English and they only clap their hands when the Mindanayans were all one. This chorus is sung. Captain Swan, to they expressed by putting their two retaliate the General's favours, sent forefingers close together, and saying for his violins, and some that could that the English and Mindanayans dance English dances, wherewith the were samo, samo- that is, all one. General was very well pleased. They Then theywould draw their forefingers commonly spent the biggest part of half a foot asunder and say the Dutch the nights in these sort of pastimes. and they were bugeto, which signifies Among the rest of our men that did that they were at such distance in use to dance thus before the General, point of friendship . And for the there was one John Thacker, who was Spaniards, they would make a greater a seaman bred, and could neither representation of distance than for the write nor read, but had formerly Dutch, fearing these, but having felt learnt to dance in the music-houses and smarted from the Spaniards, who about Wapping. This man came into had once almost brought them under. the South Seas with Captain Harris ;
218
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XIII . and getting with him a good quantity | Captain Swan that there were beeves of gold, and being a pretty good hus enough, only they were wild. But I band of his share, had still some left, told him the truth, and advised him besides what he laid out in a very not to be too credulous of the Gene good suit of clothes. The General ral's promises. He seemed to be very supposed by his garb and his dancing angry, and stormed behind the Gene that he had been of noble extraction, ral's back, but in his presence was and, to be satisfied of his quality, very mute, being a man of small asked of one of our men if he did not courage. It was about the 20th of guess aright of him. The man of December when we returned from whom the General asked this question hunting, and the General designed told him he was much in the right, to go again to another place to hunt and that most of our ship's company for beef; but he stayed till after were of the like extraction, especially Christmas Day, because some of us all those that had fine clothes, and designed to go with him, and Captain that they came abroad only to see the Swan had desired all his men to be world, having money enough to bear aboard that day, that we might keep their expenses wherever they came ; it solemnly together ; and accordingly but that for the rest, those that had he sent aboard a buffalo the day be but mean clothes, they were only fore, thatwe might have a good dinner. common seamen. After this the So the 25th, about 10 o'clock, Captain General showed a great deal of respect Swan came aboard, and all his men to all that had good clothes, but es who were ashore ; for you must under pecially to John Thacker, till Captain stand that near a third of our men Swan came to know the business, and lived constantly ashore with their marred all, undeceiving the General, comrades and pagallies, and some and drubbing the nobleman ; for he with women - servants whom they was so much incensed against John hired of their masters for concubines. Thacker that he could never endure Some of our men also had houses, him afterwards, though the poor fel which they hired or bought (for low knew nothing of the matter. houses are very cheap) for five or six About the middle of November we dollars ; for many of them having began to work on our ship's bottom, more money than they knew what to which we found very much eaten with do with, eased themselves here of the the worm ; for this is a horrid place trouble of telling it, spending it very for worms . .. • Having ripped off lavishly, their prodigality making the all our worm-eaten plank and clapped people impose upon them, to the onnew, by the beginning of December making the rest of us pay the dearer 1686, our ship's bottom was sheathed for what we bought, and to the en and tallowed ; and the 10th we went dangering the like impositions upon over the bar, and took aboard the such Englishmen as may come here iron and lead that we could not sell, hereafter. For the Mindanayans knew and began to fill our water and fetch how to get our squires' gold from aboard rice for our voyage. I was at them (for we had no silver), and that time a-hunting with the General when our men wanted silver they for beef, which he had a long time would change now and then an ounce promised us ; but now I saw that of gold, and could get for it no more there was no credit to be given to his than ten or eleven dollars for a Min word, for I was a week out with him danao ounce, which they would not and saw but four cows, which were part with again under eighteen dol so wild that we did not get one. lars. Yet this, and the great prices There were five or six more of our the Mindanayans set on their goods, company with me ; these, who were were not the only way to lessen their young men, and had Delilahs there, stocks ; for their pagallies and com which made them fond of the place, rades would often be begging some all agreed with the General to tell what of them, and our men were
219 DISCOURSE WITH THE NATIVE WOMEN. 1686.] generous enough, and would bestow vessel's motion it frequently delved half-an-ounce of gold at a time in a under water, and the man along with ring for their pagallies, or in a silver it ; and sometimes when hoisted up wristband or hoop to come about their he had scarce time to blow before he arms, in hopes to get a night's lodging would be carried under water again. with them. When we were all aboard When we had rowed about two on Christmas Day, Captain Swan and leagues we entered a pretty large, his two merchants, I did expect that deep river, and rowed up a league Captain Swan would have made some farther ; the water salt all the way. proposals, or have told us his designs ; There was a pretty large village, the but he only dined and went ashore houses built after the country fashion. again without speaking anything of We landed at this place, where therc his mind. Yet even then I think was a house made ready immediately that he was driving on a design of for us. The General and his women going to one of the Spice Islands to lay at one end of the house, and we load with spice ; for the young man at the other end ; and in the evening before mentioned, who I said was sent all the women in the village danced by his uncle, the Sultan of a spice before the General. While he stayed island near Ternate, to invite the here, the General with his men went English to their island, came aboard out every morning betimes, and did at this time, and after some private not return till four or five o'clock in discourse with Captain Swan they the afternoon ; and he would often both went ashore together. This compliment us by telling us what young man did not care that the good trust and confidence he had in Mindanayans should be privy to what us, saying that he left his women and he said. I have heard Captain Swan goods under our protection, and that say that he offered to load his ship he thought them as secure with us with spice, provided he would build six (for we had all our arms with us) a small fort and leave some men to as if he had left a hundred of his own secure the island from the Dutch ; men to guard them. Yet for all this but I am since informed that the great confidence he always left one of Dutch have now got possession of the his principal men, for fear some of us should be too familiar with his women. island. The next day after Christmas the They did never stir out of their own General went away again, and five or room when the General was at home ; six Englishmen with him, of whom I but as soon as he was gone out they was one, under pretence of going a would presently come into our room, hunting ; and we all went together and sit with us all day, and ask a by water in his proa, together with thousand questions of us concerning his women and servants, to the hunt our English women and our customs. ing-place. The General always carried You may imagine that before this his wives and children, his servants, time some of us had attained so much his money and goods with him ; so of their language as to understand we all embarked in the morning, and them and give them answers to their arrived there before night. I have demands. I remember that one day already described the fashion of their they asked how many wives the King proas, and the rooms made in them. of England had. We told them but We were entertained in the General's one, and that our English laws did room or cabin. Our voyage was not not allow of any more. They said it so far but that we reached our port was a very strange custom that a man before night. At this time one of the should be confined to one woman ; General's servants had offended, and some of them said it was a very bad was punished in this manner : He law, but others again said it was a was bound fast, flat on his belly, on a good law ; so there was a great dis bamboo belonging to the proa, which pute among them about it. But one was so near the water that by the of the General's women said posi.
220 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XIII . tively that our law was better than | savannah, where he had near 100 theirs, and made them all silent by men making a large pen to drive the the reason which she gave for it. cattle into, for that is the manner of This was the War Queen, as we called their hunting, having no dogs. But her, for she did always accompany I saw not above eight or ten cows, the General whenever he was called and those as wild as deer, so that we out to engage his enemies, but the got none this day ; yet the next day rest did not. By this familiarity some of his men brought in three among the women, and by often dis- heifers which they killed in the sa coursing with them, we came to be ac- vannah. With these we returned quainted with their customs and pri- aboard, they being all that we got vileges. The General lies with his there. Captain Swan was much wives by turns, but she by whom he vexed at the General's actions ; for he had the first son has a double portion promised to supply us with as much of his company ; for when it comes beef as we should want, but now to her turn, she has him two nights, either could not or would not make whereas the rest have him but one. good his promise. Besides he failed She with whom he is to lie at night to perform his promise in a bargain seems to have a particular respect of rice that we were to have for the shown her by the rest all the preced- iron which he sold him, but he put ing day, and for a mark of distinc- us off still from time to time, and tion wears a striped silk handker- would not come to any account. chief about her neck, by which we Neither were these all his tricks ; for a little before his son was circum knew who was queen that day. We lay here about five or six days, cised, he pretended a great strait for but did never in all that time see the money to defray the charges of that least sign of any beef, which was the day ; and therefore desired Captain business we came about ; neither Swan to lend him about twenty were we suffered to go out with the ounces of gold ; for he knew that General to see the wild kine, but we Captain Swan had a considerable wanted for nothing else. However, quantity of gold in his possession, this did not please us, and we often which the General thought was his importuned him to let us go out own, but indeed had none but what among the cattle. At last he told us belonged to the merchants. How that he had provided a jar of rice ever, he lent it the General ; but drink to be merry with us, and after when he came to an account with that we should go with him. This Captain Swan he told him that it was rice-drink is made of rice boiled and usual at such solemn times to make put into a jar, where it remains a presents, and that he received it as a long time steeping in water. I know gift. He also demanded payment for not the manner of making it, but it the victuals that our Captain and his is very strong pleasant drink. The men did eat at his house. These evening when the General designed things startled Captain Swan, yet to be merry, he caused a jar of this how to help himself he knew not. drink to be brought into our room, But all this, with other inward and he began to drink first himself, troubles, lay hard on our Captain's then afterwards his men ; so they spirits, and put him very much out took turns till they were all as drunk of humour ; for his own company also as swine, before they suffered us to were pressing him every day to be drink. After they had enough, then gone, because now was the height of we drank, and they drank no more, the easterly monsoon, the only wind for they will not drink after us. The to carry us farther into the Indies. About this time some of our men, General leaped about our room a little while ; but, having his load, soon who were weary and tired with wan went to sleep. The next day we dering, ran away into the country went out with the General into the and absconded, they being assisted,
221 MUTINY ON BOARD. 1687. ] as was generally believed, by Raja | ways ashore, there was no command, Laut. There were others also, who, and therefore every man did what he fearing we should not go to an Eng- pleased and encouraged each other in lish port, bought a canoe and de- his villanies. Now Mr Hartop, who signed to go in her to Borneo ; for was one of Captain Swan's merchants, not long before a Mindanao vessel did very much importune him to settle came from thence and brought a his resolutions and declare his mind letter directed to the chief of the to his men ; which at last he con English factory at Mindanao. This sented to do ; therefore he gave warn letter the General would have Cap- ing to all his men to come aboard the tain Swan to have opened ; but he 13th of January 1687. We did all earnestly expect to hear thought it might come from some of the East India merchants, whose what Captain Swan would propose, affairs he would not intermeddle and therefore were very willing to go with, and therefore did not open it. aboard ; but unluckily for him, two I since met with Captain Bowry at days before this meeting was to be, Achin, and telling him this story he Captain Swan sent aboard his gunner said that he sent that letter, suppos to fetch something ashore out of his ing that the English were settled cabin. The gunner rummaging to there at Mindanao ; and by this find what he was sent for, among letter we also thought that there was other things took out the captain's an English factory at Borneo ; so journal from America to the Island here was a mistake on both sides. of Guam, and laid it down by him. But this canoe wherewith some of This journal was taken up by one them thought to go to Borneo, Captain John Reed, a Bristol man. He was Swan took from them, and threatened a pretty ingenious young man, and the undertakers very hardly. How of a very civil carriage and behaviour. ever, this did not so far discourage He was also accounted a good artist, them, for they secretly bought an and kept a journal, and was now other ; but their designs taking air, prompted by his curiosity to peep they were again frustrated by Captain into Captain Swan's journal to see Swan. The whole crew were at this how it agreed with his own ; a thing time under & general disaffection, and very usual among seamen that keep full of very different projects ; and all journals, when they have an oppor for want of action. The main divi tunity, and especially young men sion was between those that had who have no great experience. At money and those that had none. the first opening of the book, he There was a great difference in the lighted on a place in which Captain humours of these ; for they that had Swan had inveighed bitterly against money lived ashore, and did not care most of his men, especially against for leaving Mindanao ; whilst those another John Reed, a Jamaica-man. that were poor lived aboard and This was such stuff as he did not seek urged Captain Swan to go to sea. after; but hitting so pat on the subject, These began to be unruly as well as his curiosity led him to pry further ; dissatisfied, and sent ashore the mer and therefore while the gunner was chants ' iron to sell for rack and honey busy, he conveyed the book away, to to make punch, wherewith they grew look over it at his leisure. The gunner drunk and quarrelsome ; which disor having despatched his business, locked derly actions deterred me from going up the cabin-door, not missing the aboard, for I did ever abhor drunken book, and went ashore ; then John ness, which now our men that were Reed shewed it to his name-sake, aboard addicted themselves wholly and to the rest that were aboard, to. Yet these disorders might have who were by this time the biggest been crushed if Captain Swan had part of them ripe for mischief, only used his authority to suppress them ; wanting some fair pretence to set but he with his merchants living al themselves to work about it. There
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XIII . 222 fore looking on what was written in came thither. Then we found it was this journal to be matter sufficient only a trick to get the surgeon off ; for them to accomplish their ends, for now, having obtained their de Captain Tait, who, as I said before, sires, the canoe was sent ashore again had been abused by Captain Swan, immediately, to desire as many as laid hold on this opportunity to be they could meet to come aboard, but revenged for his injuries, and aggra not to tell the reason, lest Captain vated the matter to the height, per Swan should come to hear of it. The 13th, in the morning, they suading the men to turn out Captain Swan from being commander, in weighed, and fired a gun. Captain hopes to have commanded the ship Swan immediately sent aboard Mr himself. As for the seamen, they Nelly, who was now his chief mate, were easily persuaded to anything, to see what the matter was ; to him for they were quite tired with this they told all their grievances, and long and tedious voyage, and most of showed him the journal. He per them despaired of ever getting home, suaded them to stay till the next day and therefore did not care what they for an answer from Captain Swan and did or whither they went. It was the merchants ; so they came to an only want of being busied in some anchor again, and the next morning action that made them so uneasy ; Mr Hartop came aboard. He per therefore they consented to what Tait suaded them to be reconciled again, proposed, and immediately all that or at least to stay and get more rice ; were aboard bound themselves by but they were deaf to it, and weighed oath to turn Captain Swan out, and again while he was aboard. Yet at to conceal this design from those Mr Hartop's persuasion they promised that were ashore, until the ship was to stay till 2 o'clock in the afternoon under sail ; which would have been for Captain Swan and the rest of the presently, if the surgeon or his mate men, if they would come aboard ; had been aboard : but they were both but they suffered no man to go ashore ashore, and they thought it no pru except one William Williams that had dence to go to sea without a surgeon. a wooden leg, and another that was a Therefore the next morning they sent sawyer. If Captain Swan had yet ashore one John Cookworthy, to hasten come aboard, he might have dashed off either the surgeon or his mate, by all their designs ; but he neither came pretending that one of the men in the himself, as a captain of any prudence night broke his leg by falling into the and courage would have done, nor hold. The surgeon told him that he sent till the time was expired. So intended to come aboard the next day we left Captain Swan and about with the Captain, and would not come thirty-six men ashore in the city, before, but sent his mate Herman and six or eight that ran away ; and Coppinger. This man, some time about sixteen we had buried there, before this, was sleeping at his pa the most of which died by poison. gally's, and a snake twisted himself The natives are very expert at poison about his neck, but afterwards went ing, and do it upon small occasions : away without hurting him. In this nor did our men want for given country it is usual to have the snakes offence, through their general ro come into the houses, and into the gueries, and sometimes by dallying ships too ; for we had several came too familiarly with their women even aboard our ship when we lay in the before their faces. Some of their river. But to proceed : Herman Cop poisons are slow and lingering ; for pinger provided to go aboard ; and we had some now aboard who were the next day, being the time appoint poisoned there, but died not till ed for Captain Swan and all his men some months after. to meet aboard, I went aboard with him, neither of us mistrusting what 1 Advised. was designed by those aboard till we
223 APPARENT CHANGE IN THE TIME. the shore. The land from hence CHAPTER XIV. trends away W. by S.; it is of a good THE 14th ofJanuary 1687, at 3 o'clock height by the sea and very woody ; in the afternoon, we sailed from the and in the country we saw high hills. River of Mindanao, designing to cruise The next day we were abreast of before Manilla. It was during our Chambongo, a town in this island, stay at Mindanao that we were first thirty leagues from the River of Min made sensible of the change of time danao. Here is said to be a good har in the course of our voyage. For bour and a great settlement, with having travelled so far westward, plenty of beef and buffalo. It is re keeping the same course with the sun, ported that the Spaniards were for we must consequently have gained merly fortified here also. About six something insensibly in the length leagues before we came to the west of the particular days, but have lost end of the Island Mindanao, we fell in the tale, the bulk, or number, of in with a great many small low islands the days or hours. According to or keys; and about two or three leagues the different longitudes of England to the southward of these keys there is and Mindanao, this isle being west a long island, stretching NE. and SW. from the Lizard, by common compu about twelve leagues. This island tation, about 210 degrees, the differ is low by the sea on the north side, ence oftime at our arrival at Mindanao and has a ridge of hills in the middle ought to be about fourteen hours : running from one end to the other. and so much we should have antici Between this island and the small pated our reckoning, having gained keys there is a good large channel. it by bearing the sun company. Now The 17th, we anchored on the east the natural day in every particular side of all these keys in eight fathoms place must be consonant to itself : but water, clean sand. Here are plenty this going about with or against the of green turtle, whose flesh is as sweet sun's course will of necessity make a as any in the West Indies ; but they difference in the calculation of the are very shy. A little to the west civil day between any two places. ward of these keys, on the Island Accordingly, at Mindanao and all Mindanao, we saw abundance of cocoa other places in the East Indies, we nut trees. Therefore we sent our found them reckoning a day before canoe ashore, thinking to find inhabi us, both natives and Europeans ; for, tants, but found none, nor sign of the Europeans coming eastward by any, but great tracks of hogs and the Cape of Good Hope, in a course great cattle ; and close by the sea contrary to the sun and us, wherever there were the ruins of an old fort ; we met they were a full day before us the walls thereof were of a good in their accounts. So, among the height, built with stone and lime, Indian Mahometans here, their Friday, and, by the workmanship, seemed to the day of their Sultan's going to their be Spanish. We weighed again the mosques, was Thursday with us ; 14th, and went through between the though it was Friday also with those keys, but met such uncertain tides who came eastward from Europe. that we were forced to anchor again. Yet at the Ladrone Islands we found the Spaniards of Guam keeping the 1 Chambongo, or Zamboanga, stands same computation with ourselves ; the at the south end of the great jut of reason of which I take to be, that they land which forms the western portion settled that colony by a course west of the Island of Mindanao ; the bay ward from Spain ; the Spaniards going enclosed in the curve of the coast first to America, and thence to the between Mindanao and Zamboanga Ladrones and Philippines. being called the Bay of Llana or We coasted to the westward on the Illana. south side of the Island Mindanao, 2 Evidently the Basilian group of keeping within four or five leagues off islands to the south of Zamboanga.
1687. ]
224 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XIV. The 22d, we got about the western- | five or six fathoms of the end. They most point of all Mindanao, and stood are of a pale green colour, clothed to the northward, plying under the over with a coat of short thick hairy shore, and having the wind at NNE. , substance of a dun colour, but it a fresh gale. Here we met with two comes off by only drawing the cane proas belonging to the Sologus, one through your hand. We did cut of the Mindanayan nations before many of them, and they proved very mentioned. They came from Manilla tough heavy canes. We saw no laden with silks and calicoes. We houses, nor sign of inhabitants. In kept on this western part of the the middle of this bay, about a mile island, steering northerly, till we from the shore, there is a small low came abreast of some other of the woody island not above a mile in cir Philippine islands that lay to the cumference ; our ship rode about a northward of us, then steered away mile from it. This island was the towards them, but still keeping on habitation of an incredible number of the west side of them, and we had the great bats, with bodies as big as winds at NNE. The 3d of February ducks or larger fowl, and with vast we anchored in a good bay on the wings ; for I saw at Mindanao one of west side of an island in Lat. 9° 55', this sort, and I judge that the wings, where we had thirteen fathoms water, stretched out in length, could not be good soft ooze. This island has no less asunder than seven or eight feet name that we could find in any book, from tip to tip, for it was much more but lies on the west side of Island than any of us could fathom with our Sebo. It is about eight or ten leagues arms extended to the utmost. We stayed here till the 10th of long, mountainous and woody. At this place Captain Reed, who was the February 1687, and then, having same Captain Swan had so much completed our business, we sailed railed against in his journal, and was hence with the wind at north ; but now made captain in his room (as going out we struck on a rock, Captain Tait was made master, and where we lay two hours. It was very Mr Henry More quarter-master), or smooth water, and the tide of flood, dered the carpenters to cut down our or else we should there have lost our quarter-deck, to make the ship snug ship. We struck off a great piece of and the fitter for sailing. When that our rudder, which was all the damage was done we heeled her, scrubbed her that we received ; but we more nar bottom, and tallowed it ; then we rowly missed losing our ship this time filled all our water, for here is a deli than in any other in the whole voyage. cate small run of water. The land This is a very dangerous shoal, be was pretty low in this bay, the mould cause it does not break, unless pro black and fat, and the trees of several bably it may appear in foul weather. kinds, very thick and tall. In some After we were passed this shoal, we places we found plenty of canes, such coasted along by the rest of the as we use in England for walking Philippine Islands, keeping on the canes. These were short-jointed, not west side of them. Some of them above two feet and a half or two feet appeared to be very mountainous ten inches the longest, and most of dry land. We saw many fires in the them not above two feet. They run night as we passed by Panay,2 a great along on the ground like a vine, or island settled by Spaniards ; and by taking hold of the trees they climb up the fires up and down it seems to be to their very tops. They are fifteen well settled by them ; for this is a or twenty fathoms long, and much of Spanish custom, whereby they give a bigness from the root till within notice of any danger, or the like, from sea ; and it is probable they had 1 It seems to be the Island of seen our ship the day before. The Negros, which lies to the west of Zebu, or, as Dampier calls it, Sebo. 2 Lying to the north-west of Negros.
225 THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS. 1687.1 18th of February we anchored at the the place that had been so long de NW. end of the Island Mindoro, in sired by us. We presently saw a sail ten fathoms water, about three-quar coming from the northward, and ters of a mile from the shore. Min making after her, we took her in two doro is a large island, the middle of hours ' time. She was a Spanish bark it lying in Lat. 13°, about forty that came from a place called Panga leagues long, stretching NW. and sanam, a small town on the N. end SE. It is high and mountainous, of Luconia, as they told us ; pro and not very woody. Here we saw bably the same with Pongassinay, great tracks of hogs and beef, and we which lies on a bay at the NW. side of saw some of each, and hunted them ; the island. She was bound to Man but they were wild, and we could kill illa, but had no goods aboard ; and none. While we lay here, there was therefore we turned her away. The a canoe with four Indians came from 23d we took another Spanish vessel Manilla. They were very shy of us a that came from the same place as the while ; but at last, hearing us speak other. She was laden with rice and Spanish, they came to us, and told cotton cloth, and bound for Manilla us that they were going to a friar that also. These goods were purposely lived at an Indian village towards the for the Acapulco ship ; the rice was SE. end of the island. They told us for the men to live on while they lay also that the harbour of Manilla is there, and in their return ; and the seldom or never without twenty or cotton cloth was to make sails. The thirty sail of vessels, most Chinese, master of this prize was boatswain of some Portuguese, and some few the the Acapulco ship, which escaped us Spaniards have of their own. They at Guam, and was now at Manilla. said that when they had done It was this man that gave us the re their business with the friar, they lation of what strength it had, how would return to Manilla, and hoped they were afraid of us there, and of to be back again at this place in four the accident that happened to them, days' time. We told them that we as is before mentioned in the tenth came for a trade with the Spaniards Chapter. We took these two vessels at Manilla, and should be glad if they within seven or eight leagues of would carry a letter to some merchant Manilla. Luconia I have spoken of already; there, which they promised to do. But this was only a pretence of ours, but I shall now add this further to get out of them what intelligence account of it. It is a great island, we couldas to their shipping, strength, taking up between six and seven de and the like, under colour of seeking grees of Latitude in length, and its a trade ; for our business was to pil breadth near the middle is about lage. Now if we had really designed sixty leagues, but the ends are nar to have traded here, this was as fair row. The north end lies in about an opportunity as men could have 19° N. , and the south end in about desired, for these men could have 12° 30'. This great island has abun brought us to the friar that they dance of small keys or islands lying were going to, and a small present to about it, especially at the north end. him would have engaged him to do The south side fronts towards the any kindness for us in the way of rest of the Philippine Islands ; of trade ; for the Spanish Governors do these that are its nearest neighbours, not allow of it, and we must trade by Mindoro, lately mentioned, is the stealth . chief, and gives name to the sea or The 21st, we went from hence with the wind at ENE. , a small gale. The stretches away south-east of Manilla, 23d, in the morning, we were fair by into a long jagged peninsula ; Dam the SE. end of the Island Luconia, ¹ pier evidently means at the southern point of what we may call the main. ¹ Not of the whole island, which | fand P
226 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XIV. strait that parts it and the other | Besides them, they have some small islands from Luconia, being called vessels of their own ; and they do the Straits of Mindoro. The body of allow the Portuguese to trade here ; the Island Luconia is composed of but the Chinese are the chief mer many spacious plain savannahs, and chants, and they drive the greatest large mountains. The north end trade ; for they have commonly seems to be more plain and even, I twenty or thirty, or forty junks in mean freer from hills, than the south the harbour at a time, and a great end ; but the land is all along of a many merchants constantly residing good height. It does not appear so in the city, beside shop-keepers and flourishing and green as some of the handicraftsmen in abundance. Small other islands in this range, especially vessels run up near the town, but the that of St John, Mindanao, Bat Acapulco ships, and others of greater Island, &c.; yet in some places it is burthen lie a league short of it, where very woody. Some of the mountains there is a strong fort also, and store of this island afford gold, and the houses to put goods in. I had the savannahs are well stocked with herds major part of this relation two or of cattle, especially buffaloes. These three years after this time, from Mr cattle are in great plenty all over the Coppinger our surgeon ; for he made East Indies ; and therefore it is very a voyage hither from Porto Novo, a probable that there were many of town on the coast of Coromandel, in these here even before the Spaniards a Portuguese ship, as I think. We came hither. But now there are also were not within sight of this town , plenty of other cattle, as I have been but I was shown the hills that over told, as bullocks, horses, sheep, goats, looked it, and drew a2 draught of them hogs, &c. , brought hither by the as we lay off at sea. The time of the year being now too Spaniards. It is pretty well in habited with Indians, most of them, far spent to do anything here, it was if not all, under the Spaniards, who concluded to sail from hence to Pulo now are masters of it. The native Condore, a little parcel of islands on Indians do live together in towns ; the coast of Cambodia, and carry this and they have priests among them to prize with us, and there careen if we instruct them in the Spanish religion. could find any convenient place for Manilla, the chief, or perhaps only it ; designing to return hither again city, lies at the foot of a ridge of high by the latter end of May, and wait hills, facing upon a spacious harbour for the Acapulco ship that comes near the SW. point of the island, in about that time. By our draughts about 14° N. It is environed with a (which we were guided by, being high strong wall, and very well forti strangers to these parts) this seemed fied with forts and breastworks. The to us, then, to be a place out of the houses are large, strongly built, and way, where we might lie snug for a covered with pantile. The streets while, and wait the time of returning are large and pretty regular, with a for our prey. For we avoided as parade in the midst, after the much as we could, going to lie by at Spanish fashion. There are a great any great place of commerce, lest we many fair buildings, besides churches should become too much exposed, and other religious houses, of which and perhaps be assaulted by a force there are not a few. The harbour is 2 In the edition from which the so large, that some hundreds of ships may ride here ; and is never without present text is printed, there is a many, bothoftheir own, and strangers. shaded skeleton drawing, about four I have already given you an account inches long by three-quarters high, of the two ships going and coming entitled " A Prospect of ye Coast of between this place and Acapulco. ye I. Luconia, near Manila, at 6 L. off shore, ye highest Pike bearing 1 Plaza, East. " t
ISLANDS ON THE 1697.] greater than our own. So having set our prisoners ashore, we sailed from Luconia the 26th of February. In our way we went pretty near the shoals of Pracel, ¹ and other shoals which are very dangerous. We were very much afraid of them, but escaped them without so much as seeing them, only at the very south end of the Pracel shoals we saw three little sandy islands or spots of sand, stand ing just above water, within a mile of us. It was the 13th of March be fore we came in sight of Pulo Con dore, or the Island Condore, as " Pulo " signifies. The 14th about noon we anchored on the north side of the island, against a sandy bay two miles from the shore, in ten fathoms clean hard sand, with both ship and prize. Pulo Condore is the principal of a heap of islands, and the only inhabited one of them. They lie in Lat. 8° 40′ N. and about twenty leagues south and by east from the mouth of the River of Cam bodia. 2 These islands lie so near to gether, that at a distance they appear to be but one island. Two of these islands are pretty large, and of a good height ; they may be seen fourteen or fifteen leagues at sea ; the rest are but little spots. The biggest of the two (which is the inhabited one) is about four or five leagues long, and lies east and west. It is not above three miles broad at the broadest place, in most places not above a mile wide. The other large island is about three miles long, and half-a-mile wide. This island stretches north and south. There are no more islands on the north side, but five or six on the south side of the great island. The mould of these islands for the biggest part is blackish, and pretty
CAMBODIA COAST.
227
deep ; only the hills are somewhat stony. The eastern part of the biggest island is sandy, yet all clothed with trees of divers sorts. The trees do not grow so thick as I have seen them in some places, but they are generally large and tall, and fit for any uses. There is one sort of tree much larger than any other on this island, and which I have not seen anywhere else. It is about three or four feet diameter in the body, from whence is drawn a sort of clammy juice, which being boiled a little becomes perfect tar ; and if you boil it much it will become hard as pitch. The fruit trees that Nature has bestowed on these isles are man goes, and trees bearing a sort of grape, and other trees bearing akind of wild or bastard nutmegs. These all grow wild in the woods, and in very great plenty. The mangoes here grow on trees as big as apple trees. Those at Fort St George are not so large. The fruit of these is as big as a small peach, but long and smaller towards the top. It is of a yellowish colour when ripe ; it is very juicy, and of a pleasant smell and delicate taste. When the mango is young, they cut them in two pieces, and pickle them with salt and vinegar, in which they put some cloves and garlic. The grape tree grows with a straight body, of a diameter about a foot or more, and has but few limbs or boughs. The fruit grows in clusters, all about the body of the tree, like the jack, durian, and cacao fruits. There are of them both red and white. They are much like such grapes as grow on our vines, both in shape and colour. The wild nutmeg tree is as big as a walnut tree ; but it does not spread so much. The boughs are gross, and the fruit grows among the boughs as the walnut and other fruits. The animals of these islands are some hogs, lizards, guanas, and some of those creatures men tioned in Chapter XI. , which are
1 The Paracel Islands and reefs at the mouth of the Gulf of Tonquin. 2 Or Mai-Kiang, which on its way to the coast traverses the whole ex tent of the empire of Annam ; Pulo Condore is directly south of its main 3 Well known in commerce and for embouchure, at the mouth of which stands Saigon, chief town of the nautical purposes as Cambodia pitch. 4 Thick. French colony of Cochin China.
228 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XIV. like, but much bigger, than the Islands, it seems borrowed for the guana. Here are many sorts of birds, carrying on of trade. The inhabit as parrots, paroquets, doves, and ants of Pulo Condore are but a small pigeons. Here are also a sort of wild people in stature, well enough shaped, cocks and hens, which crow like ours, and of a darker colour than the Min but much more small and shrill ; and danayans. They are pretty long-vis by their crowing we do first find them aged, their hair is black and straight, out inthe woods where we shoot them. their eyes are but small and black, Their flesh is very white and sweet. their noses of a mean bigness and There are a great many limpets and pretty high, their lips thin, their mussels, and plenty of green turtle. teeth white, and little mouths. They These islands are pretty well watered are very civil people, but extraordin with small brooks of fresh water, that ary poor. Their chief employment is run slush¹ into the sea for ten months to draw the juice of those trees that I in the years. The latter end of March have described to make tar. They they begin to dry away, and in April preserve it in wooden troughs, and you shall have none in the brooks when they have their cargo they but what is lodged in deep holes ; but transport it to Cochin China, their you may dig wells in some places. In mother country. Some others of May, when the rain comes, the land them employ themselves to catch is again replenished with water, and turtle, and boil up their fat to oil, the brooks run out into the sea. which they also transport home. These islands lie very commodiously These people have great large nets in the way to and from Japan, China, with wide meshes to catch the turtle. Manilla, Tonquin, Cochin China, and The Jamaica turtlers have such, and in general all this most easterly coast I did never see the like nets but at of the Indian continent, whether you Jamaica and here. They are so free go through the Straits of Malacca or of their women that they would bring the Straits of Sunda between Sumatra them aboard and offer them to us, and Java ; and one of them you must and many of our men hired them for pass in the common way from Europe, a small matter. This is a custom or other parts of the East Indies, un used by several nations in the East less you mean to fetch a great com Indies, as at Pegu, Siam, Cochin pass round most of the East India China, and Cambodia, as I have been islands, as we did. Any ship in dis told. It is used at Tonquin also to tress may be refreshed and recruited my knowledge, for I did afterwards here very conveniently, and, besides make a voyage thither, and most of ordinary accommodations, be furnish our men had women aboard all the ed with masts, yards, pitch, and tar. time of their abode there. In Africa The inhabitants are by nation Cochin also, on the coast of Guinea, our mer Chinese, as they told us, for one of chants, factors, and seamen that re them spoke good Malay, which lan side there have their black misses. guage we learnt a smattering of, and It is accounted a piece of policy to do some of us so as to speak it pretty it, for the chief factors and captains well while we lay at Mindanao ; and of ships have the great men's daugh this is the common tongue of trade ters offered them, the Mandarin's or and commerce (though it be not in noblemen's at Tonquin, and even the several of them the native language) King's wives in [New] Guinea ; and in most of the East India islands, by this sort of alliance the country being the lingua franca, as it were, people are engaged to a greater friend of these parts. I believe it is the ship. And if there should arise any vulgar tongue at Malacca, Sumatra, difference about trade, or anything Java, and Borneo ; but at Celebes, else, which might provoke the natives the Philippine Islands, and the Spice to seek some treacherous revenge (to which all these heathen nations are 1 Full. very prone), then these Delilahs would
229 CHINESE TEMPLES AND IDOLS. 1687. ] certainly declare it to their white | George, I took notice of a great cere friends , and so hinder their country- mony used for several nights succes men's designs. sively by the idolaters inhabiting the Both men and women These people are idolaters ; but suburbs. their manner of worship I know not. (these very well clad) in a great mul There are a few scattering houses and titude went in solemn procession with plantations on the great island, and a lighted torches , carrying their idols small village on the south side of it ; about with them. I know not the where there is a little idol temple, meaning of it. I observed some went and an image of an elephant, about purposely carrying oil to sprinkle into five feet high, and in bigness propor the lamps, to make them burn the tionable, placed on one side of the brighter. They began their round temple, and a horse, not so big, placed about 11 o'clock at night ; and hav on the other side of it : both stand ing paced it gravely about the streets ing with their heads towards the till 2 or 3 o'clock in the morning, south. The temple itself was low their idols were carried with much and ordinary, built of wood, and ceremony into the temple by the thatched, like one of their houses, chief of the procession, and some of which are but very meanly. The the women I saw enter the temple images of the horse and the elephant particularly. Their idols were differ were the most general idols that I ent from those of Tonquin , Cambodia, observed in the temple of Tonquin &c. , being in human shape. when I travelled there. There were I have said already that we arrived other images also, of beasts, birds, at these islands the 14th of March and fish ; I do not remember I saw 1687. The next day we searched any human shape there, nor any such about for a place to careen in ; and monstrous representations as I have the 16th we entered the harbour, and seen among the Chinese. Wherever immediatelyprovided to careen. Some the Chinese seamen or merchants men were set to fell great trees to saw come (and they are very numerous into plank ; others went to unrigging all over the seas), they have always the ship ; some made a house to put hideous idols on board their junks or our goods in, and for the sailmaker ships, with altars, and images burn to work in. The country people re ing before them. These idols they sorted to us, and brought us of the bring ashore with them. And be fruits of the island, with hogs, and sides those they have in common ; sometimes turtle ; for which they every man has one in his own house. received rice in exchange, which we Upon some particular solemn days I had a shipload of, taken at Manilla. have seen their Bonzes, or priests, We bought of them also a good quan bring whole armfuls of painted papers, tity of their pitchy liquor, which we and burn them witha great dealof cere boiled, and used about our ship's mony,being very careful to let no piece bottom. We mixed it first with lime, escape them. The same day they which we made here ; and it made an killed a goat, which had been pur excellent coat, and stuck on very posely fatting a month before this well. We stayed in this harbour they offer or present before their idol, from the 16th of March till the 16th and then dress it and feast themselves of April ; in which time we made a with it. I have seen them do this in new suit of sails of the cloth that was Tonquin, where I have at the same taken in the prize. We cut a spare time been invited to their feasts : and main-topmast, and sawed plank to at Bencoolen, in the Isle of Sumatra, sheathe the ship's bottom ; for she was they sent a shoulder of the sacrificed not sheathed all over at Mindanao, goat to the English, who ate of it and that old plank that was left on and asked me to do so too ; but I then we now ripped off, and clapped on new. While we lay here, two of refused. When I was at Madras, or Fort St our men died, who were poisoned at
230 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XIV. Mindanao : they told us of it when of Cambodia. This island is about they found themselves poisoned, and seven or eight leagues round, and it had lingered ever since. They were is higher land than any of the Pulo opened by our doctor, according to Condore isles. Against the south their own request before they died, east partof it there is a small key, and their livers were black, light and about a cable's length from the main dry, like pieces of cork. Our busi island . This Pulo Uby is very woody. ness being finished here, we left the At Pulo Uby we found two small Spanish prize taken at Manilla, and barks laden with rice. They belonged most of the rice, taking out enough to Cambodia, from whence they came for ourselves and on the 17th we not above two or three days before ; went from hence to the place where and they touched here to fill water. we first anchored, on the north side Rice is the general food of all these of the great island, purposely to water; countries ; therefore it is transported for there was a great stream when we by sea from one country to another, first came to theisland , and we thought as corn is in these parts of the world. it was so now. But we found it dried For in some countries they produce up, only it stood in holes, two or more than enough for themselves, three hogsheads or a tun in a hole ; and send what they can spare to those therefore we did immediately cut places where there is but little. The bamboos, and made spouts, through 24th, we went into the Bay of Siam. which we conveyed the water down This is a large deep bay, of which to the sea-side by taking it up in and of this kingdom I shall at pre bowls, and pouring it into these sent speak but little. We run down spouts or troughs. We conveyed into the Bay of Siam till we came to some of it thus near half-a-mile. the islands that our Pulo Condore While we were filling our water, Cap pilot told us of, which lie about the tain Reed engaged an old man, one middle of the bay ; but as good a of the inhabitants of this island (the pilot as he was, he run us aground ; same who, I said, could speak the yet we had no damage. Captain Malay language), to be his pilot to Reed went ashore at these islands, the Bay of Siam : for he had often where he found a small town of fisher been telling us, that he was well ac men ; but they had no fish to sell, quainted there, and that he knew and so we returned empty. We had some islands there where there were yet fair weather and very little wind ; fishermen lived, who he thought so that being often becalmed, we were could supply us with salt-fish to eat till the 13th of May before we got to at sea ; for we had nothing but rice Pulo Uby again. There we found to eat. The easterly monsoon was two small vessels at anchor on the not yet done ; therefore it was_con east side they were laden with rice cluded to spend some time there, and lacquer, which is used in japan and then take the advantage of the ning of cabinets. One of these came beginning of the western monsoon to from Champa, bound to the town of Malacca, which belongs to the Dutch, return to Manilla again. The 21st of April 1687, we sailed who took it from the Portuguese ; from Pulo Condore, directing our and this shows that they have a trade course W. by S. for the Bay of Siam. with Champa. This was a very pretty The 23d, we arrived at Pulo Uby.¹ neat vessel, her bottom very clean The island is about forty leagues to and curiously coated ; she had about the westward of Pulo Condore ; it forty men all armed with cortans or lies just at the entrance of the Bay broadswords, lances, and some guns of Siam, and the SW. point of land 2 Reserving a more particular ac that makes the bay, namely, the Point count to Appendix I. (see Introduc 1 Pulo Obi, off the extreme southern tory Note on page 115). 3 point of the Cambodian peninsula Probably Pulo Way, in Lat. 10° N.
SAVAGE TREATMENT FROM THE MALAYS. 1687. ] 231 that went with a swivel upon their them, seeing our men all armed, gunwales. They were of the idolaters, thought that they came to take their natives of Champa, and some of the vessel ; therefore at once, on a signal briskest, most sociable, without fear given, they drew out their cressets fulness or shyness, and the most neat and stabbed five or six of our men and dexterous about their shipping, before they knew what the matter of any such I have met with in all was. The rest of our men leaped over my travels. The other vessel came board, some into the canoe and some from the River of Cambodia and was into the sea, and so got away. Among bound towards the Straits of Malacca. the rest, one Daniel Wallis leaped into Both of them stopped here, for the the sea, who could never swim before westerly winds now began to blow, nor since ; yet now he swam very which were against them, being well a good while before he was taken somewhat belated. We anchored up. When the canoe came aboard, also on the east side, intending to fill Captain Reed manned two canoes and water. went to be revenged on the Malays ; The 21st of May we went back from but they, seeing him coming, cut a hence towards Pulo Condore. In our hole in their vessel's bottom and went way we overtook a great junk that ashore in their boat. Captain Reed came from Palembang, a town on the followed them, but they ran into the Island of Sumatra. She was full laden woods and hid themselves. with pepper which they bought there, Here we stayed ten or eleven days, and was bound to Siam ; but it blow for it blew very hard all the time. ing so hard, she was afraid to venture While we stayed here, Herman Cop into that bay, and therefore came to pinger our surgeon went ashore, in Pulo Condore with us, where we tending to live here ; but Captain both anchored May 24th. This ves Reed sent some men and fetched him sel was of the Chinese make, full of again. I had the same thoughts, and little rooms or partitions like our would have gone ashore too, but well-boats. I shall describe them in waited for a more convenient place. the next Chapter. The men of this For neither he nor I when we went English were last on board at Mindanao had any junk told us that the settled on the Island of Sumatra, at knowledge of the plot that was laid to a place called Sillabar ; and the first leave Captain Swan and run away knowledge we had that the English with the ship ; and being sufficiently had any settlement on Sumatra was weary of this mad crew, we were from these. When we came to an willing to give them the slip at any anchor, we saw a small bark at anchor place from whence we might hope to near the shore ; therefore Captain get a passage to an English factory. Reed sent a canoe aboard her to know There was nothing else of moment from whence they came ; and suppos - happened whilst we stayed here. ing that it was a Malay vessel, he ordered the men not to go aboard, for they are accounted desperate fel lows, and their vessels are commonly full of men, who all wear cressets or CHAPTER XV. little daggers by their sides. The canoe's crew, not minding the Cap HAVING filled our water, cut our tain's orders, went aboard, all but one wood, and got our ship in a sailing man that stayed in the canoe. The posture while the blustering hard Malays, who were about twenty of winds lasted, we took the first oppor tunity of a settled gale to sail towards 1 One is tempted to find in this Manilla. Accordingly, June the 4th graphic account traces ofthe Japanese, 1687, we loosed from Pulo Condore then little if at all known to even our with the wind at SW. , fair weather, most experienced navigators. ata brisk gale. The pepperjunk bound
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DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XV. to Siam remained there waiting for daunt us, for we were resolved to try an easterly wind ; but one of his men, our fortunes there if the winds would a kind of bastard Portuguese, came permit ; and we did beat for it five or aboard our ship and was entertained six days, but at last were forced to for the sake of his knowledge in the leave that design also for want of several languages of these countries. winds, for the SE. winds continuing, The wind continued in the SW. but forced us on the coast of China. It was the 25th of June when we twenty-four hours, or a little more, and then came about to the N. and made the land, and running in to then to the NE., and the sky became wards the shore, we came to an anchor exceeding clear. Then the wind came the same day on the NE. end of St at E., and lasted betwixt E. and SE. John's Island. This island is in for eight or ten days. Yet we con Lat. about 22° 30′ N. , lying on the tinued plying to windward, expecting S. coast of the province of Quan Tung, every day a shift of wind, because or Canton, in China. It is of an in these winds were not according to the different height and pretty plain, and season of the year. We were now the soil fertile enough. It is partly afraid lest the currents might deceive woody, partly savannahs or pasturage us and carry us on the shoals of Pra for cattle, and there is some moist cel, which were near us, a little to arable land for rice. The skirts or the NW.; but we passed on to the outer part of the island, especially eastward without seeing any sign of that part of it which borders on the them. Yet we were kept much to main sea, is woody. The middle part the northward of our intended course, of it is good thick grassy pasture, and the easterly winds still continu with some groves of trees ; and that ing, we despaired of getting to Man which is cultivated land is low wet illa, and therefore began to project land, yielding plentiful crops of rice, some new design ; and the result was, the only grain that I did see here. to visit the Island of Prata, ¹ about The tame cattle which this island the Lat. of 20° 40′ N. , and not far affords are China hogs, goats, buffa from us at this time. It is a small loes, and some bullocks. The hogs of low island environed with rocks clear this island are all black ; they have but round it, by report. It lieth so in small heads, very short thick necks, the way between Manilla and Canton, great bellies commonly touching the the head of a province and a town of ground, and short legs. They eat great trade in China, that the Chinese but little food, yet they are most of do dread the rocks about it more than them very fat, probably because they the Spaniards did formerly dread Ber sleep much. The tame fowls are mudas, 2 for many of their junks ducks and cocks and hens. I saw no coming from Manilla have been lost wild fowl but a few small birds. The natives of this island are there, and with abundance of treasure in them, as we were informed by all Chinese. They are subject to the the Spaniards that ever we conversed crown of China, and consequently at with in these parts. They told us this time to the Tartars. The Chinese also that in these wrecks most of the in general are tall, straight-bodied, men were drowned, and that the 8 Called in Chinese Chang-cheun, Chinese did never go thither to take up any of the treasure that was lost which is evidently an assimilation of there for fear of being lost themselves. the name given by the Portuguese ; it But the danger of the place did not lies nearly a degree south- west of Macao. 4 The Manchoo Tartars, after a 1 Pratos, lying in the north of the Chinese Sea, about equidistant from war lasting nearly thirty years, had Canton, Formosa, and the northern established their dynasty more than extremity of Luzon. forty years before the time of which 2 The vext Bermoothes." Dampier writes.
233 HOME CUSTOMS OF THE CHINESE. 1687. ] raw-boned men. They are long-vis- | if he do but cross the street, screening aged, and their foreheads are high ; his head with it if he has not an um but they have little eyes. Their brella with him. The common ap noses are pretty large, with a rising parel of the men is a loose frock and in the middle. Their mouths are of breeches. They seldom wear stock. a mean size, pretty thin lips. They ings, but they have shoes, or a sort are of an ashy complexion ; their of slippers rather. The men's shoes hair is black, and their beards thin are made diversely. The women have and long, for they pluck the hair out very small feet, and consequently but by the roots, suffering only some few little shoes, for from their infancy very long straggling hairs to grow their feet are kept swathed up with about their chin, in which they bands as hard as they can possibly take great pride, often combing them endure them ; and from the time and sometimes tying them up in a they can go till they have done grow knot ; and they have such hairs too ing, they bind them up every night. growing down from each side of their This they do purposely to hinder upper lip like whiskers. The ancient them from growing, esteeming little Chinese were very proud of the hair feet to be a great beauty. But by of their heads, letting it grow very this unreasonable custom they do in long, and stroking it back with their a manner lose the use of their feet, hands curiously, and then winding and instead of going, they only the plats all together round a bod- stumble about their houses, and pre kin thrust through it at the hinder sently squat down again, being, as it part of the head ; and both men and were, confined to sitting all the days of women did thus. But when the their lives. They seldom stir abroad ; Tartars conquered them, they broke and one would be apt to think that, them off this custom they were fond as some have conjectured, their keep of by main force, insomuch that they ing up their fondness for this fashion resented this imposition worse than were a stratagem of the men's to their subjection, and rebelled upon keep them from gadding and gossip it ; but being still worsted, were ing about and confine them at home. forced to acquiesce ; and to this day They are kept constantly to their they follow the fashion of their mas- work, being fine needle-women, and ters the Tartars, and shave all their making many curious embroideries, heads, only reserving one lock, which and they make their own shoes ; but some tie up, others let it hang down if any stranger be desirous to bring to a great or small length, as they away any for novelty's sake, he must please. The Chinese in other coun- be a great favourite to get a pair of tries still keep their old custom, but shoes of them, though he give twice if any of the Chinese is found wearing their value. The poorer sort of women long hair in China, he forfeits his trudge about the streets, and to the head ; and many of them have aban- market, without shoes or stockings ; doned their country to preserve their and these cannot afford to have little liberty of wearing their hair, as I have feet, being to get theirlivingwith them. been told by themselves. The Chinese The Chinese, both men and women, have no hats, caps, or turbans ; but areveryingenious, as mayappearby the when they walk abroad they carry a many curious things that are brought small umbrella in their hands, where from thence, especially the porcelain with they fence their heads from the or China earthenware. The Span sun or the rain by holding it over iards of Manilla, that we took on the their heads. If they walk but a little coast of Luconia, told me that this way, they carry only a large fan made commodity is made of conch shells, of paper or silk, of the same fashion the inside ofwhich looks like mother as those our ladies have, and many of-pearl. But the Portuguese, lately of them are brought over hither ; one mentioned, who had lived in China, of these every man carries in his hand and spoke that and the neighbouring
234
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XV. languages very well, said that it was to say much of them. Wherefore, to made of a fine sort of clay that was confine myself chiefly to what I ob dug in the province of Canton. I served at St John's Island, where have often made inquiry about it, we lay some time, and visited the but could never be well satisfied in it ; shore every day to buy provision, as but while I was on the coast of Can- hogs, fowl, and buffalo, Here was ton I forgot to inquire about it. They a small town standing in a wet make very fine lacquer ware also, and swampy ground, with many filthy good silks ; and they are curious at ponds amongst the houses, which painting and carving. China affords were built on the ground as ours are, drugs in great abundance, especially not on posts as at Mindanao. In China root ; but this is not peculiar these ponds were plenty of ducks ; to that country alone, for there is the houses were small and low, and much of this root growing in Jamaica, covered with thatch, and inside were particularly at Sixteen Mile Walk ; but ill furnished, and kept nastily ; and in the Bay of Honduras it is very and I have been told by one who was plentiful. There is a great store of there, that most of the houses in the sugar made in this country ; and tea city of Canton itself are but poor and in abundance is brought from thence, irregular. The inhabitants of this being much used there, and in Ton village seem to be most husbandmen ; quin and Cochin China as common they were at this time very busy in drinking, women sitting in the streets sowing their rice, which is their chief and selling dishes of tea hot and commodity. The land in which they ready made ; they call it Chau, and choose to sow the rice is low and wet, even the poorest people sip it. But and when ploughed, the earth was like the tea at Tonquin or Cochin China a mass of mud. They ploughed their seems not so good, or of so pleasant a land with a small plough drawn by bitter, or of so fine a colour, or such one buffalo, and one man both holds virtue, as this in China ; for I have the plough and drivesthe beast. drank of it in these countries, unless When the rice is ripe and gathered the fault be in their way of making in, they tread it out of the ear with it, for I made none there myself ; and buffaloes, in a large round place made by the high red colour it looks as if with a hard floor fit for that purpose, they made a decoction of it, or kept it where they chain three or four of stale. Yet, at Japan, I was told there these beasts, one at the tail of the is a great deal of pure tea, very good.1 other ; and driving them round in a The Chinese are very great game ring, as in a horse-mill, they so order it sters, and they will never be tired that the buffaloes maytread upon it all. with it, playing night and day, till I was once ashore at this island, with they have lost all their estates, then seven or eight Englishmen more, and it is usual with them to hang them having occasion to stay some time, we selves. This was frequently done by killed a small " shore " or young the Chinese factor at Manilla, as I porker, and roasted it for our dinners. was told by Spaniards that lived there. While we were busy dressing of our The Spaniards themselves are much pork, one of the natives came and sat addicted to gaming, and are very ex down by us ; and when our dinner pert at it ; but the Chinese are too was ready, we cut a good piece and subtle for them, being in general a gave it him, which he willingly re very cunning people. But a particu ceived. But by signs he begged more, lar account of them and their country and withal pointed into the woods ; yet would fill a volume ; nor does my we did not understand his meaning, short experience of them qualify me nor much mind him, till our hunger was pretty well assuaged, although Teahad beenintroduced in England, he did still make signs, and walking though only as a rare luxury, some a little way from us, he beckoned to us to come to him, which at last I did, thirty years before Dampier wrote.
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235 DESCRIPTION OF A CHINESE JUNK. 1687.] and two or three more. He, going | the lagoon between the island and before, led the way in a small blind the main ; one came and anchored path through a thicket into a small by us. I and some more of our men grove of trees, in which there was an went aboard to view her. She was old idol temple about ten feet square. built with a square flat head as well The walls of it were about nine feet as stern, only the head or fore-part high, and two feet thick, made of was not so broad as the stern. On bricks. The floor was paved with her deck she had little thatched broad bricks, and in the middle of houses like hovels, covered with the floor stood an old rusty iron bell on palmetto leaves, and raised about its brims. This bell was about two three feet high, for the seamen to feet high, standing flat on the ground ; creep into. She had a pretty large the brims on which it stood were about cabin, wherein there was an altar and sixteen inches diameter. From the a lamp burning ; I did but just look brims it did taper away a little to- in, and saw not the idol. The hold wards the head, much like our bells, was divided into many small parti but that the brims did not turn out tions, all of them made so tight, that so much as ours do. On the head of if a leak should spring up in any one the bell there were three iron bars as of them, it could go no farther, and big as a man's arm, and about ten so could do but little damage, but inches long from the top of the bell, only to the goods in the bottom of where the ends joined as in a centre, that room where the leak springs up. and seemed of one mass with the bell, Each of these rooms belongs to one as if cast together. These bars stood or two merchants, or more ; and every all parallel to the ground ; and their man freights his goods in his own further ends, which stood triangularly room, and probably lodges there if he and opening from each other at equal be on board himself. These junks distances, like the flyers of our have only two masts, a mainmast and The foremast has a kitchen-jacks, were made exactly in a foremast. the shape of the paw of some mon- square yard and a square sail ; but strous beast, having sharp claws on the mainmast has a sail narrow aloft, it. This, it seems, was their god ; like a sloop's sail ; and in fair weather for as soon as our zealous guide came they use a topsail, which is to haul before the bell, he fell flat on his face, down on the deck in foul weather, and beckoned to us, seeming very yard and all ; for they do not go up desirous to have us do the like. At to furl it. The mainmast in their the inner side of the temple, against biggest junks seemed to me as big as the walls, there was an altar of white any third-rate man-of-war's mast in hewn stone. The table of the altar England, and yet not pieced as ours, was about three feet long, sixteen but made of one grown tree ; and in inches broad, and three inches thick. all my travels I never saw any single It was raised about two feet from the tree masts so big in the body, and so ground, and supported by three small long, and yet so well tapered, as I pillars of the same white stone. On have seen in the Chinese junks. Some of our men went over to a this altar there were several small earthen vessels ; one of them was full pretty large town on the continent of of small sticks that had been burned China, where we might have fur at one end. Our guide made a great nished ourselves with provision, many signs for us to fetch and to which was a thing we were always leave some of our meat there, and in want of, and was our chief busi seemed very importunate ; but we ness here ; but we were afraid to lie refused. We left him there, and in this place any longer, for we had went aboard. I did see no other some signs of an approaching storm, this being the time of the year in temple nor idol here. While we lay at this place, we saw which storms are expected on this several small China junks sailing in coast ; and here was no safe riding.
236 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XV. It was now the time of the year for away two canoes that were towing the SW. monsoon ; but the wind had astern. After 4 o'clock the thunder been whiffling about from one part of and the rain abated, and then we the compass to another for two or saw a Corpus Sant¹ at our main-top three days, and sometimes it would mast head, on the very top of the be quite calm. This caused us to put truck of the spindle. This sight re to sea, that we might have sea-room joiced our men exceedingly ; for the at least ; for such fluttering weather height of the storm is commonly is commonly the forerunner of a tem over when the Corpus Sant is seen pest. Accordingly we weighed an aloft ; but when they are seen lying chor and set out ; yet we had very on the deck it is generally accounted little wind all the next night. But a bad sign. A Corpus Sant is a cer the day ensuing, which was the 4th tain small glittering light. When it of July, about 4 o'clock in the after appears, as this did, on the very top noon, the wind came to the NE. and of the mainmast or at a yard-arm, it freshened upon us, and the sky looked is like a star ; but when it appears on very black in that quarter, and the the deck it resembles a great glow black clouds began to rise apace and worm. The Spaniards have another move towards us, having hung all the name for it (though I take even this morning in the horizon. This made to be a Spanish or Portuguese name, us take in our topsails ; and the and a corruption only of Corpus wind still increasing, about 9 o'clock Sanctum) ; and I have been told that we reefed our mainsail and foresail. when they see them they presently go At ten we furled our foresail, keeping to prayers, and bless themselves for under a mainsail and mizzen. At 11 the happy sight. I have heard some o'clock we furled our mainsail, and ignorant seamen discoursing how they ballasted our mizzen, at which time it have seen them creep, or, as they say, began to rain, and by 12 o'clock at travel about in the scuppers, telling night it blew exceeding hard, and the many dismal stories that happened at rain poured down as through a sieve. such times ; but I did never see any It thundered and lightened prodi one stir out of the place where it first giously, and the sea seemed all of a was fixed, except upon deck, where fire about us ; for every sea that broke every sea washes it about. Neither sparkled like lightning. The violent did I ever see any but when we have wind raised the sea presently to a had hard rain as well as wind, and great height, and it ran very short therefore do believe it is some jelly : and began to break in on our deck. but enough of this. We continued One sea struck away the rails of our scudding right before wind and sea head ; and our sheet anchor, which from 2 till 7 o'clock in the morning ; was stowed with one fluke, or bend and then the wind being much abated, ing of the iron over the ship's gun we set our mizzen again, and brought wale, and lashed very well down to our ship to the wind, and lay under a the side, was violently washed off, mizzentill eleven. Then itfellflat calm, and had like to have struck a hole in our bow as it lay beating against it. 1 " Corposant. A name given to Then we were forced to put right the luminous appearance often beheld before the wind, to stow our anchor in a dark tempestuous night about again, which we did with much the decks and rigging of a ship, espe ado ; but afterwards we durst not cially aboutthemast-heads, yard-arms, adventure to bring our ship to the &c. , caused by the electric fluid pass wind again, for fear of foundering, ing upwards and downwards, by for the turning the ship either to or means of the humidity on the masts from the wind is dangerous in such and rigging,' and ' most frequent in violent storms. The fierceness of heavy rain accompanied by light the weather continued till 4 o'clock ning. "-Young's Nautical Diction that morning, in which time we cut ary.
1687. ] PESCADORES. 237 and it continued so for about two to go to certain islands lying in Lat. hours ; but the sky looked very black 23° N. , called Pescadores. For there and rueful, especially in the SW. , was not a man aboard that was any and the sea tossed us about like an thing acquainted on these coasts ; and eggshell for want of wind. About 1 therefore all our dependence was on o'clock in the afternoon, the wind the draughts, which only pointed out sprung up at SW. , out of the quarter to us where such and such places or from whence we did expect it ; there islands were, without giving us any fore we presently brailed up, our mizzen account what harbour, roads, or bays and wore our ship ; but we had no there were, or the produce, strength , sooner put our ship before the wind or trade of them. These we were but it blew a storm again, and it forced to seek after ourselves. The rained very hard, though not so Pescadores are a great many inhabited violently as the night before ; but the islands, lying near the Island of For wind was altogether as boisterous, and mosa, between it and China, in or so continued till 10 or 11 o'clock at near Lat. 23° N. , almost as high as night. All which time we scudded, the Tropic of Cancer. These Pesca or run, before the wind very swift, dore Islands are moderately high, and though only with our bare poles, that appear much like our Dorsetshire and is, without any sail abroad. After Wiltshire Downs in England. They wards the wind died away by degrees, produce thick short grass and a few and before day we had but little wind trees. They arepretty wellwatered, and and fine clear weather. they feed abundance of goats and some I was never in such a violent storm great cattle. There are abundance of in all my life ; so said all the com mounts and old fortifications onthem, pany. This was near the change of but ofno use now, whatever they have the moon ; it was two or three days been. Between the two easternmost before the change. The 6th, in the islands there is a very good harbour, morning, having fine handsome wea which is never without junks riding in ther, we got up our yards again, and it ; and on the west side of the eastern began to dry ourselves and our clothes, mostisland there is a large town and fort for we were all well sopped. This commanding the harbour. The houses storm had deadened the hearts of our arebut low, yetwell built, and the town men so much that, instead of going makes a fine prospect. This is a gar to buy more provision at the same rison of the Tartars, wherein are also place from whence we came before three or four hundred soldiers, who the storm, or of seeking any more from live here three years, and then they the Island of Prata, they thought of are removed to some other place. On going somewhere to shelter before the the island on the west side of the full moon, for fear of another such harbour, close by the sea, there is a storm at that time ; for commonly, if small town of Chinese, and most of there is any very bad weather in the the other islands have some Chinese month it is about two or three days living on them, more or less. Having, as I said before, concluded before or after the full or change of the moon. These thoughts, I say, to go to these islands, we steered put our men on thinking where to away for them. The 20th of July we go ; and the draughts or sea-plats 2 had first sight of them, and steered being first consulted, it was concluded in among them, finding no place to anchor in till we came into the har 1 It had been in the NE. before ; bour before mentioned. We blun and thus, though Dampier knew no dered in, knowing little of our way, thing about modern theories of storms, and we admired to see so many it seems clear that in the two hours' They really lie about 20' to the lull he had passed through the vortex northward of the Tropic. of a tornado. + Mounds. 5 Wondered. 2 Plans or charts.
238 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XV. junks going and coming, and some at | wanted, and they should also bring it anchor, andsogreat a town as the neigh off to us ; that nevertheless we might bouring easternmost town, the Tartar go on shore on the other islands, to ian garrison ; for we did not expect nor buy refreshments of the Chinese. desire to have seen any people, being After the discourse was ended, the in care to lie concealed in these seas. Governor dismissed him with a small However, seeing we were here, we jar of flour and three or four large boldly ran into the harbour, and pre cakes of very fine bread, and about a sently sent ashore our canoe to the dozen pine-apples and water-melons town. Our people were met by an (all very good in their kind) as a pre officer at their landing, and our quar- sent to the Captain. termaster, who was the chief man in The next day an eminent officer the boat, was conducted before the came aboard with a great many at Governor and examined, of what na tendants. He wore a black silk cap tion we were, and what was our busi of a particular make, with a plume of ness here. He answered that we were black and white feathers standing up English, and were bound to Amoy or almost round his head behind, and Anhay, which is a city standing on a all his outside clothes were black silk. navigable river in the province of He had a loose black coat which Fo-kien in China, a place of vast reached to his knees, and his breeches trade, there being a huge multitude were of the same, and underneath his of ships there, and in general on all coat he had two garments more of these coasts, as I have heard of several other coloured silk. His legs were that have been there. He said also, covered with small black limber boots. that having received some damage by All his attendants were in a very a storm, we therefore put in here to handsome garb of black silk, all refit before we would adventure to go wearing those small black boots and farther, and that we did intend to lie caps. These caps were like the crown here till after the full moon, for fear of a hat made of palmetto leaves, like of another storm. The Governor told our straw-hats, but without brims, him that we might better refit our and coming down but to their ears. ship at Amoy than here, and that he These had no feathers, but had an heard that two English vessels were oblong button on the top, and from arrived there already, and that he between the button and the cap there should be very ready to assist us in fell down all round their head, as low anything, but we must not expect as the cap reached, a sort of coarse to trade there, but must go to the hair like horse-hair, dyed (as I sup places allowed to entertain merchant pose) of a light red colour. The officer strangers, whichwereAmoy and Macao. brought aboard, as a present from the (Macao is a town of great trade also, Governor, a young heifer, the fattest lying in an island at the very mouth and kindliest beef that I did ever of the River of Canton. It is forti taste in any foreign country ; it was fied and garrisoned by a large Portu small yet full grown ; two large hogs, guese colony, but yet under the four goats, two baskets of fine flour, Chinese Governor, whose people in twenty great flat cakes of fine well habit one moiety of the town, and tasted bread, two great jars of arrack lay on the Portuguese what tax they (made of rice as I judged), called by please ; for they dare not disoblige the Chinese Sam-Shu, and fifty-five the Chinese for fear of losing their jars of Hog-Shu, as they call it, and trade. ) However, the Governor very our Europeans from them. This is a kindly told our quartermaster that strong liquor, made of wheat, as I whatsoever we wanted, if that place have been told. It looks like mum, ¹ could furnish us, we should have it ; 1 Described in Bailey as 66 a strong yet that we must not come ashore on that island, but he would send aboard liquor brought from Brunswick, in some of his men to know what we Germany "-a drink so potent as to
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239 GRAFTON AND MONMOUTH ISLANDS. 1687. ] and tastes much like it, and is very | We now directed our course for some pleasant and hearty. Our seamen islands we had chosen to go to that love it mightily, and will lick their lie between Formosa and Luconia. lips with it ; for scarce a ship goes to They are laid down in our plots 2 China but the men come home fat without any name, only with a figure with soaking this liquor, and bring of 5, denoting the number of them. store of jars of it home with them. It was supposed by us that these It is put into small, white, thick jars islands had no inhabitants, because that hold near a quart ; the double they had not any name by our hydro jars hold about two quarts. These graphers ; therefore we thought to lie jars are small below, and thence rise there secure, and be pretty near the up with a pretty full belly, closing in Island of Luconia, which we did still pretty short at top, with a small intend to visit. In going to them we thick mouth. Over the mouth of sailed by the SW. end of Formosa, the jar they put a thin chip cut round leaving it on our larboard side. The just so as to cover the mouth, over 6th of August we arrived at the five that a piece of paper, and over that islands that we were bound to, and they put a great lump of clay, almost anchored on the east side of the nor as big as the bottle or jar itself, with thernmost island, in fifteen fathoms, a hollow in it to admit the neck of a cable's length from the shore. Here, the bottle, made round and about contrary to our expectation, we found four inches long ; this is to preserve abundance of inhabitants in sight ; the liquor . If the liquor take any for there were three large towns all vent, it will be sour presently; so within aleague of the sea, and another that when we buy any of it of the larger town than any of the three on ships from China returning to Madras the back side of a small hill close by or Fort St George, where it is then also, as we found afterwards. These sold, or of the Chinese themselves, islands having no particular names in of whom I have bought it at Achin the draughts, some or other of us and Bencoolen in Sumatra, if the clay1 made use of the seamen's privilege to be cracked, or the liquor mothery, give them what names we pleased. we make them take it again. A quart Three ofthe islands were pretty large ; jar there is worth sixpence. Besides the westernmost is the biggest. This this present from the Governor, there the Dutchmen who were among us was a captain of a junk sent two jars called the Prince of Orange's Island, of arrack, and abundance of pine in honour of his present majesty. apples and water-melons. Captain The other two great islands are about Reed sent ashore, as a present to the four or five leagues to the eastward Governor, a curious Spanish silver of this. The northernmost of them, hilted rapier, an English carbine, and where we first anchored, I called the a gold chain ; and when the officer Duke of Grafton's Isle as soon as we went ashore three guns were fired . landed on it ; having married my In the afternoon the Governor sent wife out of his Duchess's family, and off the same officer again, to compli leaving her at Arlington House at my ment the Captain for his civility, and going abroad. The other great isle promised to retaliate his kindness our seamen called the Duke of Mon before we departed ; but we had such mouth's Island ; this is about a league blustering weather afterwards, that to the southward of Grafton Isle. no boat could come aboard. Between Monmouth and the south We stayed here till the 29th, and end of Orange Island there are two then sailed from hence, with the small islands of a roundish form, wind at SW. , and pretty fair weather. lying east and west. The eastern most island of the two our men un make " mum " the word with the animously called Bashee Island, from imbiber. 2 Plats ; maps, charts, or plates. 1 Monldy, muddy.
240
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [CHAP. XV, a liquor which we drank there plenti- | in_the_other, there are also found fully every day after we came to an great abundance of fowls ; but on the anchor at it. The other, which is contrary, few fowls in those countries the smallest of all, we called Goat where the inhabitants feed on fruits Island, from the great number of and roots only. The few wild fowls goats there ; and to the northward of that are here are paroquets and some them all are two high rocks. Orange other small birds. Their tame fowl Island, which is the biggest of them are only a few cocks and hens. Monmouth and Grafton Islands are all, is not inhabited. It is high land, flat and even on the top, with steep very thick inhabited ; and Bashee Island has one town on it. The cliff's against the sea ; for which rea son we could not go ashore there, as natives of these islands are short, we did on all the rest. Monmouth squat people ; they are generally and Grafton Isles are very hilly, with round-visaged, with low foreheads many of those steep inhabited preci and thick eyebrows ; their eyes of a pices on them that I shall describe par hazel colour and small, yet bigger ticularly. The two small islands are than the Chinese ; short low noses, flat and even ; only the Bashee Island and their lips and mouths middle has one steep, scraggy hill, but Goat proportioned. Their teeth are white; Island is all flat and very even. The their hair is black, and thick, and mould of these islands in the valleys lank, which they wear but short ; it is blackish in some places, but in will just cover their ears, and so it is most red. The hills are very rocky ; cut round very even. Their skins the valleys are well watered with are of a very dark copper colour. brooks of fresh water, which run into They wear no hat, cap, or turbat, ¹ the sea in many different places. nor anything to keep off the sun. The soil is indifferent fruitful, espe The men for the biggest part have only cially in the valleys, producing pretty a small clout to cover their naked great plenty of trees (though not very ness ; some of them have jackets big) and thick grass. The sides of made of plantain leaves, which were the mountains have also short grass, as rough as any bear's skin. I never and some ofthe mountains have mines saw such rugged things. The women within them ; for the natives told us have a short petticoat made of cotton, that the yellow metal they showed us which comes a little below their knees. (as I shall speak more particularly) It is a thick sort of stubborn cloth, came from these mountains ; for when which they make themselves of their they held it up they would point to cotton. Both men and women wear wards them. large earrings, made of that yellow The fruit of the islands are a few metal before mentioned. Whether it plantains, bananas, pine-apples, pump were gold or no I cannot positively kins, sugar-canes, &c. ; and there say ; I took it to be so, it was heavy, might be more if the natives would, and of the colour of our paler gold. for the ground seems fertile enough. I would fain have brought away some Here are great plenty of potatoes and to have satisfied my curiosity, but I yams, which is the common food for had nothing wherewith to buy any. the natives for bread kind ; for those Captain Reed bought two of these few plantains they have are only used rings with some iron, of which the as fruit. They have some cotton people are very greedy; and he would growing here, of the small plants. have bought more, thinking he was Here are plenty of goats and abun come to a very fair market, but that dance of hogs, and few fowls, either the paleness of the metal made him wild or tame. For this I have always and his crew distrust its being right observed in my travels, both in the gold. For my part, I should have East and West Indies, that in those ventured on the purchase of some ; places where there is plenty of grain, that is, of rice in the one and maize 1 Turban.
241 NATIVE HOUSE AND BOAT BUILDING. 1687. ] but having no property in the iron, sible. These precipices are natural ; of which we had great store on board, for the rocks seem too hard to work sent from England by the merchants on ; nor is there any sign that art along with Captain Swan, I durst not has been employed about them. On barter it away. These rings when Bashee Island there is one such, and first polished look very gloriously ; built upon, with its back next the sea. but time makes them fade, and turn Grafton and Monmouth Isles are very to a pale yellow. Then they make a thick set with these hills and towns ; soft paste of red earth, and, smearing and the natives, whether for fear of it over their rings, they cast them into pirates, or foreign enemies, or factions a quick fire, where they remain till among their own clans, care not for they be red-hot ; then they take them building but in these fastnesses, which out and cool them in water, and rub I take to be the reason that Orange off the paste ; and they look again of Isle, though the largest, and as fertile a glorious colour and lustre. These as any, yet, being level and exposed, people make but small low houses. has no inhabitants. I never saw the The sides, which are made of small like precipices and towns. posts, wattled with boughs, are not These people are pretty ingenious above four feet and a half high : the also in building boats. Their small ridge pole is about seven or eight feet boats are much like our Deal yawls, high. They have a fireplace at one but not so big ; and they are built end of their houses, and boards placed with very narrow plank, pinned with on the ground to lie on. They in wooden pins and some nails. They habit together in small villages, built have also some pretty large boats, on the sides and tops of rocky hills ; which will carry forty or fifty men ; three or four rows of houses one above these they row with twelve or four another, and on such steep precipices, teen oars of a side. They are built that they go up to the first row with a much like the small ones, and they wooden ladder, and so with a ladder row double-banked ; that is, two men still from every story up to that sitting on one bench, but one rowing above it : there being no [other] way on one side, the other on the other to ascend. The plain on the first pre- side, of the boat. They understand cipice may be so wide as to have room the use of iron, and work it them both for a row of houses that stand selves. Their bellows are like those all along on the edge or brink of it, at Mindanao. The common employ and a very narrow street running ment for the men is fishing ; but I along before their doors ; between the did never see them catch much : row of houses and the foot of the next whether it is more plenty at other precipice, the plain of which is in a times of the year I know not. The inanner level to the tops of the houses women do manage their plantations. below ; and so for the rest. The I did never see them kill any of common ladder to each row or street their goats or hogs for themselves ; comes up at a narrow passage left yet they would beg the paunches of purposely about the middle of it ; the goats that they themselves did and the street being bounded with a sell to us and if any of our surly precipice also at each end, it is but seamen did heave them into the sea, drawing up the ladder, if they be they would take them up again, and assaulted, and then there is no com the skins of the goats also. They ing at them from below, but by would not meddle with hogs' guts, if climbing up as against a perpendi our men threw away any besides what cular wall ; and that they may not they made chitterling and sausages be assaulted from above, they take off. The goats' skins these people care to build on the side of such a would carry ashore, and making a hill whose back side hangs over the fire they would singe off all the hair, sea, or is some high, steep, perpendi and afterwards let the skin lie and cular precipice, altogether inacces parch on the coals, till they thought
242
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XV.
it eatable ; and then they would gnaw it, and tear it to pieces with their teeth, and at last swallow it. The paunches of the goats would make them an excellent dish : they dressed it in this manner. They would turn out all the chopped grass and crudities found in the maw into their pots, and set it over the fire, and stir it about often ; this would smoke, and puff, and heave up as it was boiling ; wind breaking out of the ferment, and making a very savoury stink. While this was doing, if they had any fish, as commonly they had two or three small fish, these they would make very clean (as hating nastiness belike) and cut the flesh from the bone, and then mince the flesh as small as possibly they could ; and when that inthe pot was well boiled, they would take it up, and strewing a little salt into it they would eat it, mixed with their raw minced fish. The dung in the maw would look like so much boiled herbs minced very small ; and they took up their mess with their fingers, as the Moors do their pillau, using no spoons. They had another dish made of a sort of locusts, whose bodies were about an inch and a half long, and as thick as the top of one's little finger ; with large thin wings, and long and small legs. At this time of the year these creatures came in great swarms to devour their potato leaves and other herbs ; and the natives would go out with small nets, and take a quart at one sweep. When they had enough, they would carry them home, and parch them over the fire in an earthen pan ; and then their wings and legs would fall off, and their heads and backs would turn red like boiled shrimps, being before brownish. Their bodies being full, would eat very moist, their heads would crackle in one's teeth. I did once eat of this dish, and liked it well enough ; but their other dish my stomach would not take. Their common drink is water ; as it is of all other Indians. Besides
1 Stomach.
which, they make a sort of drink with the juice of the sugar-cane, which they boil and put some small black sort of berries among it. When it is well boiled, they put it into great jars, and let it stand three or four days, and work. Then it settles and becomes clear, and is presently fit to drink. This is an excellent liquor, and very much like English beer, both in colour and taste. It is very strong, and I do believe very wholesome for our men, who drank briskly of it all day for several weeks, were frequently drunk with it, and never sick after it. The natives brought a vast deal of it every day to those aboard and ashore : for some of our men were ashore at work on Bashee Island ; which island they gave that name to from their drink ing this liquor there, that being the name which the natives called this liquor by and as they sold it to our men very cheap, so they did not spare to drink it as freely. And indeed, from the plenty of this liquor, and their plentiful use of it, our men called all these islands the Bashee Islands. What language those people speak I know not : for it had no affinity in sound to the Chinese, which is spoken much through the teeth ; nor yet to the Malay language. They called the metal that their earrings were made of, Bullawan, which is the Mindanao word for gold ; therefore probably they may be related to the Philippine Indies : for that is the general name for gold among all those Indians. I could not learn whence they have their iron ; but it is most likely they go in their great boats to the north end of Luconia, and trade with the Indians of that island for it. Neither did I see anything besides iron, and pieces of buffaloes ' hides, which I could judge that they bought of strangers. Their clothes were of their own growth and manufacture. These men had wooden lances, and a few lances headed with iron ; which are all the weapons that they have. Their armour is a piece of buffalo hide, shaped like our carters' frocks, being without sleeves, and sewed both
HOME LIFE OF 1687. ] sides together, with holes for the head and the arms to come forth. This buff-coat reaches down to their knees ; it is close about their shoulders, but below it is three feet wide, and as thick as a board. I could never perceive them to wor ship anything, neither had they any idols ; neither did they seem to ob serve any one day more than another. I could never perceive that one man was of greater power than another ; but they seemed to be all equal : only every man ruling in his own house, and the children respecting and hon ouring their parents. Yet it is pro bable that they have some law, or custom, by which they are governed for while we lay here we saw a young man buried alive in the earth ; and it was for theft, as far as we could understand from them. There was a great deep hole dug, and abundance of people came to the place to take their last farewell of him. Among the rest, there was one woman who made great lamentation, and took off the condemned person's earrings. We supposed her to be his mother. After he had taken his leave of her and some others, he was put into the pit, and covered over with earth. He did not struggle, but yielded very quietly to his punishment ; and they crammed the earth close upon him, and stifled him. They have but one wife, with whom they live and agree very well ; and their children live very obediently under them. The boys go out a-fish ing with their fathers, and the girls live at home with their mothers and when the girls are grown pretty strong, they send them to their plan tations, to dig yams and potatoes, of which they bring home on their heads every day enough to serve the whole family for they have no rice nor maize. Their plantations are in the valleys, at a good distance from their houses where every man has a certain spot of land, which is properly his own. This he manages himself for his own use ; and provides enough, that he may not be beholden to his neighbour. Notwithstanding the
THE NATIVES.
243
seeming nastiness of their dish of goat's maw, they are in their persons a very neat cleanly people, both men and women : and they are withal the quietest and civilest people that I did ever meet with. I could never per ceive them to be angry with one an other. I have admired to see twenty or thirty boats aboard our ship at a time, and yet no difference among them, but all civil and quiet, endea vouring to help each other on occa sion : no noise, nor appearance of distaste and although sometimes cross accidents would happen, which might have set other men together by the ears, yet they were not moved by them. They have no sort of coin : but they have small crumbs of the metal before described, which they bind up very safe in plantain-leaves, or the like. This metal they exchange for what they want, giving a small quantity of it, about two or three grains, for a jar of drink that would hold five or six gallons. They have no scales, but give it by guess. Thus much in general. To proceed, therefore, with our affairs. I have said before that we anchored here the 6th of August. While we were furling our sails, there came near 100 boats of the natives aboard, with three or four men in each, so that our deck was full ofmen. We were at first afraid of them, and therefore got up twenty or thirty small arms on our poop, and kept three or four men as sentinels, with guns in their hands, ready to fire on them if they had offered to molest us. But they were pretty quiet, only they picked up such old iron as they found on our deck ; and they also took out our pump-bolts, and linch-pins out of the carriages of our guns, before we perceived them. At last one of our men perceived one of them very busy getting out one of our linch-pins, and took hold of the fellow, who immedi ately bawled out ; and all the rest presently leaped overboard- someinto their boats, others into the sea-and they all made away for the shore. But when we perceived their fright we made much of him that was in hold,
244
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XV. who stood trembling all the while ; | there about three or fourdays before we and at last we gave him a small piece went to other islands. We sailed to the of iron, with which he immediately southward, passing on the east side leaped overboard and swam to his of Grafton Island ; and then passed consorts, who hovered about our ship through between that and Monmouth to see the issue. Then we beckoned Island, but we found no anchoring to them to come aboard again, being till we came to the north end of Mon very loth to lose a commerce with mouth Island, and there we stopped them. Some of the boats came aboard during one tide. When we went from again, and they were always very hence, we coasted about two leagues honest and civil afterwards. We pre to the southward on the west side of sently after this sent a canoe ashore Monmouth Island ; and finding no to see their manner of living, and anchor ground, we stood over to what provision they had. The canoe's Bashee Island, and came to an anchor crew were made very welcome with on the north- east part of it against a Bashee drink, and saw abundance of small sandy bay in seven fathom clean hogs, some of which they bought and hard sand, and about a quarter of a returned aboard. After this the na mile from the shore. We presently tives brought aboard both hogs and built a tent ashore to mend our sails goats to us in their own boats ; and in, and stayed all the rest of our time every day we should have fifteen or here, viz. , from the 13th of August twenty hogs and goats in boats aboard till the 26th of September. In which by our side. These we bought for a time we mended our sails and scrub small matter. We could buy a good bed our ship's bottom very well ; and fat goat for an old iron hoop, and a hog every day some of us went to their of seventy or eighty pounds' weight for towns and were kindly entertained two or three pounds of iron. Their by them. Their boats also came drink also they brought off in jars, aboard with their merchandise to sell, which we bought for old nails, spikes, and lay aboard all day ; and if we did and leaden bullets. Besides the fore not take it off their hands one day, mentioned commodities, they brought they would bring the same again the aboard great quantities of yams and next. We had yet the winds at SW. potatoes, which we purchased for and SSW. , mostly fair weather. In nails, spikes, or bullets. It was one October we did expect the winds to man's work to be all day cutting out shift to the NE. , and therefore we bars of iron into small pieces with a provided to sail (as soon as the east cold chisel, and these were for the ern monsoon was settled) to cruise off great purchases of hogs and goats, Manilla. Accordingly we provided a which they would not sell for nails, stock of provision. We salted seventy as their drink and roots. We never or eighty good fat hogs, and bought let them know what store we had, yams and potatoes good store to eat that they might value it the more. at sea. About the 24th of September Every morning, as soon as it was light, they would thus come aboard the winds shifted about to the E. , with their commodities, which we and thence to the NE. , fine fair bought as we had occasion. We did weather. The 25th it came at N. commonly furnish ourselves with as and began to grow fresh, and the sky many goats and roots as served us all began to be clouded, and the wind the day; and their hogs we bought freshened on us. At 12 of the clock in large quantities as we thought con at night it blew a very fierce storm. venient, for we salted them. Their We were then riding with our best hogs were very sweet, but I never saw bower ahead, and though our yards so many measled ones. and topmast were down, yet we drove. We filled all our water at a curious This obliged us to let go our sheet brook close by us in Grafton Isle, anchor, veering out a good scope of where we first anchored. We stayed cable, which stopped us till 10 or 11
245 SIX MEN PICKED UP. 1687. ] of the clock the next day. Then the of him hereafter. He and the rest of wind came on so fierce that she drove them told me that after the ship was again with both anchors ahead. The out of sight the natives began to be wind was now at N. by W. , and we more kind to them than they had kept driving till 3 or 4 of the clock been before, and persuaded them to in the afternoon ; and it was well for cut their hair short, as theirs was ; us that there were no islands, rocks, offering to each of them, if they would or sands in our way, for if there had do it, a young woman to wife, and a been, we must have been driven upon small hatchet and other iron utensils them . We used our utmost endeavours fit for a planter, in dowry ; and withal to stop her, being loth to go to sea, showed them a piece of land for them because we had six of our men ashore to manage. They were courted thus who could not get off now. At last we by several of the town where they were driven out into deep water, and then were, but they took up their then it was in vain to wait any longer ; headquarters at the house of him with therefore we hove in our sheet cable, whom they first went ashore. Wher. and got up our sheet anchor, and cut the ship appeared in sight again, ther away our best bower (for to have they importuned them for some iron , heaved her up then would have gone which is the chief thing that they near to have foundered us), and so covet, even above their earrings. We put to sea. We had very violent might have bought all their earrings weather the night ensuing, with very or other gold they had, with our iron hard rain ; and we were forced to scud bars, had we been assured of its good with our bare poles till 3 o'clock in ness ; and yet when it was touched the morning. Then the wind slack and compared with other gold, we ened, and we brought our ship to could not discern any difference, under a mizzen, and lay with our head though it looked so pale in the lump ; to the westward. The 27th the wind but the seeing them polish it so often abated much, but it rained very hard was a new discouragement. This last storm put our men quite all day and the night ensuing. The 28th the wind came about to the NE. , out of heart ; for although it was not and it cleared up and blew a hard altogether so fierce as that which we gale ; but it stood not there, for it were in on the coast of China, which shifted about to the eastward , thence was still fresh in memory, yet it to the SE., then to the S.; at last it wrought more powerfully, and fright settled at SW. , and then we had a ed them from their design of cruis moderate gale and fair weather. It ing before Manilla, fearing another was the 29th when the wind came to storm there. Now every man wished the SW. Then we made all the sail himself at home, as they had done a we could for the island again. The hundred times before ; but Captain 30th we had the wind at W. , and Reed, and Captain Tait, the master, saw the islands, but could not get in persuaded them to go towards Cape before night. Therefore we stood off Comorin, andthen theywould tellthem to the southward till 2 of the clock in more of their minds, intending, doubt the morning, then we tacked and less, to cruise in the Red Sea ; and stood in all the morning ; and about they easily prevailed with the crew. 12 of the clock, the 1st of October, we The eastern monsoon was now at anchored again at the place whence hand, and the best way had been to go through the Straits of Malacca ; we were driven. Then our six men were brought but Captain Tait said it was danger aboard by the natives, to whom we ous, by reason of many islands and gave three whole bars of iron for their shoals there, with which none of us kindness and civility, which was an wereacquainted. Therefore hethought extraordinary present to them. Mr it best to go round on the east de Robert Hall was one of the men that of all the Philippine Islands, and were left ashore ; I shall speak more so keeping south toward the Spice
246 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XVI. Islands, to pass out into the East southerly, forced us to keep farther Indian Ocean about the Island Timor. from the islands. The 14th of Octo This seemed to be a very tedious way ber we came close by a small, low, about, and as dangerous altogether woody island, that lies east from the for shoals ; but not for meeting with SE. end of Mindanao, distant from it English or Dutch ships, which was about twenty leagues. I do not find their greatest fear. I was well it set down in any sea-chart. The enough satisfied , knowing that the 15th we had the wind at NE., and farther we went, the more knowledge steered west for the Island Mindanao, and experience I should get, which and arrived at the SE. end again on was the main thing that I regarded ; the 16th. There we went in and and I should also have the more anchored between two small islands. variety of places to attempt an escape Here we found a fine small cove on from them, being fully resolved to the NW. end of the easternmost take the first opportunity of giving | island , fit to careen in or haul ashore ; them the slip. so we went in there, and presently unrigged our ship, and provided to haul our ship ashore, to clean her bottom . CHAPTER XVI. These islands are about three or four leagues from the Island Minda THE 3d of October 1687, we sailed nao ; they are about four or five miles from these islands standing to the in circumference, and of a pretty southward, intending to sail through good height. The mould is black among the Spice Islands. We had and deep, and there are two small They are fair weather, and the wind at W. brooks of fresh water. We first steered SSW., and passed both plentifully stored with great close by certain small islands that lie high trees ; therefore our carpenters just by the north end of the Island were sent ashore to cut down some of Luconia. We left them all on the them for our use ; for here they made west of us, and passed on the east a new boltsprit, which we did set side of it, and the rest of the Philip here also, our old one being very pine Islands, coasting to the south- faulty. They made a new foreyard ward. The NE. end of the Island too, andaforetopmast ; and our pumps Luconia appears to be good cham- being faulty and not serviceable, they paign land, of an indifferent height, did cut a tree to make a pump. They plain and even for many leagues, only first squared it, then sawed it in the it has some pretty high hills stand- middle, and then hollowed each side ing upright by themselves in these exactly. The two hollow sides were plains ; but no ridges of hills, or made big enough to contain a pump chains of mountains joining one to box in the midst of them both, when another. The land on this side they were joined together, and it re seems to be most savannah, or pas- quired their utmost skill to close ture ; the SE. part is more mountain- them exactly to the making a tight ous and woody. Leaving the Island cylinder for the pump-box ; being un Luconia, and with it our golden pro- accustomed to such work. We learnt jects, we sailed on the southward, this way of pump-making from the passing on the east side of the rest of Spaniards, who make their pumps the Philippine Islands. These appear that they use in their ships in the to be more mountainous and less | South Seas after this manner ; and I woody, till we came in sight of the am confident that there are no better Island St John, the first of that name 1 I mentioned ; the other I spoke of on Bowsprit, so called, probably, the coast of China. This I have from the meaning of the word " bolt, 99 already described to be a very woody as something projected or thrust out island, Here the wind coming from the bow of the ship.
247 DEATH OF CAPTAIN SWAN. 1687. ] hand-pumps in the world than they company ashore, and I found these have. all very willing to do it. I desired While we lay here, the young them to say nothing till I had tried Prince that I mentioned in Chapter the minds of the other half, which I XIII. , came aboard.¹ He, under intended to do the next day, it being standing that we were bound farther their turn to fill water then ; but one to the southward, desired us to trans of these men, who seemed most for port him and his men to his own ward to invite back Captain Swan, island. He showed it to us in our told Captain Reed and Captain Tait draught, and told us the name of it, of the project, and they presently dis which we put down in our draught, suaded the men from any such de for it was not named there ; but I signs. Yet, fearing the worst, they quite forgot to put it into my journal. made all possible haste to be gone. I This man told us, that not above six have since been informed that Captain days before this he saw Captain Swan, Swan and his men stayed there a and several of his men that we left great while afterward, and that many there, and named the names of some of the men got passage thence in of them, who, he said, were all well, Dutch sloops to Ternate, particularly and now they were at the city of Min Mr Rofy and Mr Nelly. There they danao ; but that they had been all of remained a great while, and at last them out with Raja Laut, fighting got to Batavia (where the Dutch took under him in his wars against his their journals from them), and so to enemies the Alfoores ; and that most Europe ; and some of Captain Swan's of them fought with undaunted cour men died at Mindanao, of which nun age, for which they were highly hon ber Mr Harthope and Mr Smith, Cap oured and esteemed, as well by the tain Swan's merchants, were two. At Sultan, as by the General Raja Laut. last Captain Swan and his surgeon , That now Captain Swan intended to2 going in a small canoe aboard of a go with his men to Fort St George, Dutch ship then in the road, in order and that in order thereto, he had prof to get passage to Europe, were over fered forty ounces of gold for a ship, set bythe natives at the mouth of the but the owner and he were not yet river, who waited their coming pur agreed ; and that he feared the Sul posely to do it, but unsuspected by tan would not let him go away till them, where they both were killed in the wars were ended. All this the the water. This was done by the Prince told us in the Malay tongue, General's order, as some think, to get which many of us had learnt ; and his gold, which he did immediately when he went away he promised to seize on. Others say it was because return to us again in three days' time, the General's house was burnt a little and so long Captain Reed promised before, and Captain Swan was sus to stay for him (for we had now al pected to be the author of it ; and most finished our business), and he others say that it was Captain Swan's seemed very glad of the opportunity threats occasioned his own ruin, for ofgoing with us. he would often say, passionately, that After this I endeavoured to persuade he had been abused by the General , our men to return with the ship to and that he would have satisfaction the River of Mindanao and offer their for it ; saying also, that now he was service again to Captain Swan. I took well acquainted with their rivers, and an opportunity when they were filling knew how to come in at any time ; water, there being then half the ship's that he also knew their manner of fighting and the weakness of their 1 Who had been sent by his uncle, country ; and therefore he would go the Sultan of a spice island, to Min- away and get a band of men to assist danao, with an invitation to Captain him, and returning thither again he Swanto come and trade. 8 Dealt falsely with. 2 Madras.
248 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XVI. would spoil and take all that they had, | about thirty leagues to the eastward and their country too. When the of this long slip is the Island Gilolo, General has been informed of these on the west side of which are four discourses he would say, 66 What, is small islands close by it, which are very Captain Swan made of iron, and able well stored with cloves. The two chief to resist a whole kingdom ? or does are Ternate and Tidore. And as the he think that we are afraid of him Isle of Ceylon is reckoned the only that he speaks thus ?" Yet did he place for cinnamon, and that of Banda never touch him till now the Min for nutmegs ; so these are thought by danayans killed him. It is very pro some to bethe only clove islands in bable there might be somewhat of the world ; but this is a great error, truth in all this, for the Captain was as I have already shown. At the passionate, and the General greedy of south end of the Island Celebes there gold. But whatever was the occa is a sea or gulf of about seven or eight sion, so he was killed, as several have leagues wide, and forty or fifty long, assured me, and his gold seized on, which runs up the country almost and all his things ; and his journal directly to the north ; and this gulf also from England, as far as Cape Cor has several small islands along the rientes on the coast of Mexico . This middle of it. On the west side of the journal was afterwards sent away from island, almost at the south end of it, thence by Mr Moody (who was there the town of Macassar is seated-a town both a little before and a little after of great strength and trade belonging the murder), and he sent it into Eng to the Dutch. There are great inlets land by Mr Goddard, chief mate of and lakes on the east side of the island, as also abundance of small islands and the Defence. But to our purpose. Seeing I could shoals lying scattered about it. We not persuade them to go to Captain saw a high-peaked hill at the north Swan again, I had a great desire to end, but the land on the east side is have had the Prince's company ; but low all along, for we cruised almost Captain Reed was afraid to let his the length of it. The mould on this fickle crew lie long. That very day side is black and deep, and extraor that the Prince had promised to re dinarily fat and rich, and full of trees ; turn to us, which was November 2, and many brooks of water run out into 1687, we sailed hence, directing our the sea. Indeed all this east side of the course SW. and having the wind at island seems to be but one large grove NW. This wind continued till we of extraordinary great high trees. Having with much ado got on this came in sight of the Island Celebes, then it veered about to the W. and east side, coasting along to the south to the S. of W. We came up with ward, and yet having but little wind, the NE. end of the Island Celebes on and even that little against us at SSW. the 9th, and there we found the cur and sometimes calm, we were a long rent setting to the W. so strongly time going about the island. The that we could hardly get on the E. 22d we were in Lat. 1° 20′ S. , and side of that island. being about three leagues from the The Island Celebes is a very large island, standing to the southward, island, extended in length from north with a very gentle land wind, about to south about seven degrees of Lati 2 or 3 of the clock in the morning, tude, and in breadth about three de we heard clashing in the water, like grees. It lies under the Equator, boats rowing ; and fearing some sud the north end being in Lat. 1° 30' N., den attack, we got up all our arms and the south end in Lat. 5° 30' S.; and stood ready to defend ourselves. and by common account the bulk of As soon as it was day we saw a great this island lies nearest north and proa, built like the Mindanayan proas, south, but at the north-east end there with about sixty men in her, and six runs out a long narrow point, stretch smaller proas. They lay still about a ing NE. about thirty leagues ; and mile to windward of us to view us,
1
249 FELLING A MONSTER TREE. 1687. ] and probably designed to make a prey salve. Our men , knowing the virtues of us when they first came out, but of it, stocked themselves here ; there they were now afraid to venture on us. was scarce a man in the ship but got At last we showed them Dutch colours, a pound or two of it, especially such thinking thereby to allure them to as were troubled with old ulcers, who come to us, for we could not go to found great benefit by it. The man them ; but they presently rowed in that discovered these leaves here had towards the island and went into a his first knowledge of them in the large opening, and we saw them no Isthmus of Darien, he having had more; nor did we ever see any other this receipt from one of the Indians boats or men but only one fishing there ; and he had been ashore in canoe while we were about this island, divers places since purposely to seek neither did we see any house on all these leaves, but did never find any the coast. but here. About five or six leagues to the Among the many vast trees here south of this place there is a great abouts there was one exceeded all the range of both large and small islands, rest. This Captain Reed caused to be and many shoals also that are not laid cut down in order to make a canoe, down in our draughts, which made it having lost our boats, all but one extremely troublesome for us to get small one, in the late storms ; so six through. But we passed between lusty men, who had been logwood them all and the Island Celebes, and cutters in the Bays of Campeachy and anchored against a sandy bay in eight Honduras (as Captain Reed himself, fathomssandyground abouthalf-a-mile and many more of us had), and so from the main island, being then in were very expert at this work, under Lat. 1° 50'S. Here we stayed several took to fell it, taking their turns days, and sent out our canoes a-strik three always cutting together ; and ing of turtle every day, for here is they were one whole day and half the great plenty of them ; but they were next before they got it down. This very shy, as they were generally wher tree, though it grew in a wood, was ever we found them in the East India | yet eighteen feet in circumference and Seas. I know not the reason of it, forty-four feet of clean body, without unless thenatives goverymuch a-strik knot or branch ; and even there it had ing here ; for even in the West Indies no more than one or two branches, and they are shy in places that are much then ran clean again ten feet higher ; disturbed ; and yet on New Holland there it spread itself into many great we found them shy, as I shall relate, limbs and branches like an oak, very though the natives there do not molest green and flourishing ; yet it was them. On the shoals without us we perished at the heart, which marred went and gathered shell-fish at low it for the service intended . So, leav . water. There were a monstrous sorting it, and having no more business of cockles-the meat of one of them here, we weighed and went from hence would suffice seven or eight men. It the next day, it being the 29th of was very good wholesome meat. We November. We had the wind at NE. did also beat about in the woods on when we weighed, and we steered off the island, but found no game. One SSW. In the afternoon we saw a of our men, who was always troubled shoal ahead of us, and altered our with sore legs, found a certain vine course to the SSE. In the evening, that supported itself by climbing at 4 of the clock, we were close by about other trees. The leaves reached another great shoal ; therefore wo six or seven feet high, but the strings tacked and stood in for the Island or branches eleven or twelve. It had Celebes again for fear of running on a very green leaf, pretty broad and some ofthe shoals in the night. Byday roundish, and of a thick substance. a man might avoid them well enough, These leaves pounded small, and boiled for they had all beacons on them, like with hogs fard, make an excellent huts built on tall posts, above high
250 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XVI. water mark, probably set up by the may more easily approach them than natives of the Island Celebes or those in the day, for the turtle sees better of some other neighbouring islands ; than he hears : but, on the contrary, and I never saw any such elsewhere. the manatee's hearing is quickest. In The 30th we had a fresh land wind, the morning they returned with a very and steered away south, passing be large turtle, which they took near the tween the two shoals which we saw shore ; and withal an Indian of the is the day before. Being past them, land came aboard with them. He spake the wind died away, and we lay be the Malay language, by which we did calmed till the afternoon ; then we understand him. He told us, that had a hard tornado out of the SW. , two leagues farther to the southward and towards the evening we saw two of us there was a good harbour, in or three spouts, the first I had seen which we might anchor : so having since I came into the East Indies : a fair wind, we got thither by noon. in the West Indies I had often met This harbour is in Lat. 4° 54' S., with them. A spout is a small ragged lying on the east side of the Island piece, or part of a cloud, hanging Bouton. Which island lies near the down about a yard, seemingly from SE. end of the Island Celebes, distant the blackest part thereof. Commonly from it about three or four leagues. It it hangs down sloping from thence, is of a long form, stretching SW. and or sometimes appearing with a small NE. about twenty-five leagues, and bending or elbow in the middle. I ten broad. It is pretty high land, never saw any hang perpendicularly and appears pretty even, and flat, and down. It is small at the lower end, very woody. There is a large town seeming no bigger than one's arm ; within a league of the anchoring but it is fuller towards the cloud, place, called Callasusung, being the whence it proceeds. They seem ter chief, if there were more ; which we rible enough : the rather because knew not. It is about a mile from they come upon you while you lie the sea, on the top of a small hill, in becalmed like a log in the sea, and a very fair plain, encompassed with cannot get out of their way ; but cocoa-nut trees. Without the trees though I have seen and been beset there is a strong stone wall, clear by them often, yet the fright was round the town. The houses are built like the houses at Mindanao, always the greatest of the harm. December the 1st, we had a gentle but more neat ; and the whole town gale at ESE. We steered south ; and was very clean and delightsome. The at noon I was by observation in Lat. inhabitants are small and well shaped. 3° 34' S. Then we saw the Island They are much like the Mindanayans Bouton, bearing south - west, and in shape, colour, and habit ; but about ten leagues distant. We had more neat and tight. They speak very uncertain and unconstant winds. the Malay language, and are all The 5th, we got close by the NW . Mahometans. They are very obedi end of the Island Bouton, and in the ent to the Sultan, who is a little man, evening, it being fair weather, we about forty or fifty years old, and hoisted out our canoe, and sent the has a great many wives and children. Mosquito men, of whom we had two About an hour after we came to an or three, to strike turtle, for here are anchor, the Sultan sent a messenger plenty of them ; but they being shy, aboard, to know what we were, and we chose to strike them in the night what our business. We gave him an (which is customary in the West account, and he returned ashore, and Indies also) for every time they come in a short time after he came aboard up to breathe, which is once in eight again, and told us that the Sultan or ten minutes, they blow so hard, was very well pleased when he heard that one may hear them at thirty or that we were English, and said, that forty yards' distance ; by which means we should have anything the island the striker knows where they are, and afforded ; and that he himself would
1687.1 THE SULTAN come aboard in the morning. There fore the ship was made clean, and everything put in the best order to receive him. The 6th, in the morning betimes, a great many boats and canoes came aboard, with fowls, eggs, plantains, potatoes, &c. , but they would dispose of none till they had order for it from the Sultan, at his coming. About 10 of the clock the Sultan came aboard in a very neat proa, built after the Mindanao fashion. There was a large white silk flag' at the head of the mast, edged round with a deep red for about two or three inches broad, and in the middle there was neatly drawn a green griffin, tramp ling on a winged serpent that seemed to struggle to get up, and threatened his adversary with open mouth, and with a long sting that was ready to be darted into his legs. Other East Indian princes have their devices also. The Sultan, with three or four of his nobles, and three of his sons, sat in the house of the proa. His guards were ten musketeers, five standing on one side of the proa, and five on the other side and before the door of the proa-house stood one with a great broad sword and a target, and two more such at the after-part of the house ; and in the head and stern of the proa stood four musketeers more, two at each end. The Sultan had a silk turban, laced with narrow gold lace by the sides, and broad lace at the end ; which hung down on one side the head, after the Mindanayan fashion. He had a sky-coloured silk pair of breeches, and a piece of red silk thrown across his shoulders , and hanging loose about him ; the greatest part of his back and waist appearing naked. He had neither stocking nor shoe. One of his sons was about fifteen or sixteen years old ; the other two were young things, and they were always in the arms of one or other of his attendants. Captain Reed met him at the side, and led him into his small cabin, and fired five guns for his welcome. As soon as he came aboard he gave leave to his subjects to traffic with us , and
OF BOUTON.
251
then our people bought what they had a mind to. The Sultan seemed very well pleased to be visited by the English ; and said he had coveted to have a sight of Englishmen, having heard extraordinary characters of their just and honourable dealings : but he exclaimed against the Dutch (as all the Mindanayans, and all the Indians we met with, do) and wished them at a greater distance. For Macassar is not very far from hence, one of the chief towns that the Dutch have in those parts. Thence the Dutch come sometimes hither to purchase slaves. The slaves that these people get here and sell to the Dutch are some of the idolatrous natives of the island, who, not being under the Sultan, and hav ing no head, live straggling in the country, flying from one place to another to preserve themselves from this prince and his subjects, who hunt after them to make them slaves. For the civilising Indians of the maritime places, who trade with foreigners, if they cannot reduce the inland people to the obedience of their prince, catch all they can of them and sell them for slaves ; accounting them to be but as savages, just as the Spaniards do the poor Americans. After two or three hours' discourse, the Sultan went ashore again, and five guns were fired at his departure also. The next day he sent for Cap tain Reed to come ashore ; and he, with seven or eight men, went to wait on the Sultan. I could not slip an opportunity of seeing the place ; and so accompanied them. We were met at the landing-place by two of the chief men, and guided to a pretty neat house, where the Sultan waited our coming. The house stood at the farther end of all the town before mentioned, which we passed through ; and abundance of people were gazing on us as we passed by. When we came near the house, forty poor, naked soldiers with muskets made a line for us to pass through. This house was not built on posts, as the rest were, after the Mindanayan way ; but the room in which we were en tertained was on the ground, covered
252 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XVI. with mats to sit on. Our entertain at NNE. , and we steered towards the ment was tobacco and betel -nut, and SE. , and fell in with four or five small young cocoa-nuts ; and the house was islands, that lie in 5° 40′ S. Lat. , and beset with men, women, and children, about five or six leagues from Calla who thronged to get near the windows susung harbour. These islands ap to look on us. We did not tarry peared very green with cocoa-nut above an hour before we took our trees, and we saw two or three towns leave and departed . The next day on them, and heard a drum all night, the Sultan came aboard again, and for we were got in among shoals, presented Captain Reed with a little and could not get out again till the boy ; but he was too small to be ser next day. We know not whether viceable on board ; and so Captain the drum were for fear of us, or that Reed returned thanks, and told him they were making merry, as it is he was too little for him. Then the usual in these parts to do all the Sultan sent for a bigger boy, which night, singing and dancing till morn the Captain accepted. This boy was ing. At last we passed between the a very pretty tractable boy ; but what islands, and tried for a passage on the was wonderful in him, he had two east side. We met with divers shoals rows of teeth, one within another, on on this side also, but found channels each jaw. None of the other people to pass through ; so we steered away were so, nor did I ever see the like. for the Island Timor, intending to The Captain was presented also with pass out by it. The 16th, we got two he-goats, and was promised some clear of the shoals, and steered S. by buffalo, but I do believe that they E. , with the wind at WSW. , but have but few of either on the island. veering every half hour, sometimes at We did not see any buffalo, nor many SW., and then again at W., and goats ; neither have they much rice ; sometimes at NNW. , bringing much but their chief food is roots. We rain, with thunder and lightning. bought here about a thousand pound The 20th we passed bythe Island weight of potatoes. Here our men Omba, which is a pretty high island, bought also abundance of crockadores lying in Lat. 8° 20', and not above and fine large paroquets, curiously five or six leagues from the NE. part coloured, and some of the finest I saw. of the Island Timor. It is about The crockador is as big as a parrot, thirteen or fourteen leagues long, and and shaped much like it, with such a five or six leagues wide. About seven bill ; but is as white as milk, and has or eight leagues to the west of Omba a bunch of feathers on his head like is another pretty large island, but it a crown. At this place we bought a had no name in our plans ; yet by proa also of the Mindanayan make, the situation it should be that which for our own use, which our carpenters in some maps is called Pentare.¹ We afterwards altered, and made a deli sawon it abundance of smokes by day, cate boat fit for any service. She and fires by night, and a large town was sharp at both ends ; but we on the north side of it, not far from sawed off one, and made that end the sea ; but it was such bad weather flat, fastening a rudder to it ; and that we did not go ashore. Between Omba and Pentare, and in the mid she rowed and sailed incomparably. We stayed here but till the 12th, channel, there is a small, low, sandy because it was a bad harbour and foul island, with great shoals on either ground, and a bad time ofthe year too, side ; but there is a very good channel for the tornadoes began to come in close by Pentare between them and thick and strong. When we went to the shoals about the small isle. We weigh our anchor, it was hooked in a were three days beating off and on, rock, and we broke our cable, and not having a wind, for it was at SSW. could not get our anchor, though we strove hard for it ; so we went away 1 Or Pantor ; a small island about and left it there. We had the wind midway between Timor and Floris.
253 AUSTRALIA OR NEW HOLLAND. 1688. ] The 23d, in the evening, having a | again among the islands ; but this small gale at north, we got through, was not a good time of the year to keeping close by Pentare. The tide be among any islands to the south of of ebb here set out to the southward, the Equator, unless in a good har by which we were helped through, bour. The 31st, we were in Lat. 13° for we had but little wind ; but this 20', still standing to the southward, tide, which did us a kindness in set- the wind bearing commonly very ting us through, had like to have hard at W. , and we keeping upon it ruined us afterwards. For there are under two courses, and our mizzen, two small islands lying at the south and sometimes a maintopsail reefed. end of the channel we came through ; About 10 of the clock at night we and towards these islands the tide tacked and stood to the northward, hurried so swiftly, that we very nar- for fear of running on a shoal, which rowly escaped being driven ashore ; for is laid down on our draughts in the little wind we had before at north Lat. 13° 50′ or thereabouts. At died away ; we had not one breath of 3 of the clock we tacked again, and wind when we came there, neither stood S. by W. and SSW. In the was there an anchor-ground . But we morning, as soon as it was day, we got out our oars and rowed, yet all in saw the shoal right ahead. We vain ; for the tide set wholly on one stemmed right with the middle of it, of the small islands, that we were and stood within half-a-mile of the forced by might and main strength rocks, and sounded, but found no to bear off the ship, by thrusting with ground. Then we went about and our oars against the shore, which was stood to the north two hours ; and a steep bank, and by this means we then tacked and stood to the south presently drove away, clear of danger ; ward again, thinking to weather it, and having a little wind in the night but could not. So we bore away on at north, we steered away SSW. In the north side, till we came to the the morning again we had the wind east point, giving the rocks a small at WSW. , and steered S.; and the berth ; then we trimmed sharp, and wind coming to the WNW. , we stood to the southward, passing close steered SW. to get clear of the SW. to it, and sounded again, but found end of the Island Timor. The 26th, no ground. The 4th of January, 1688, we fell we saw the NW. point of Timor, SE. by E. , distant about eight leagues. in with the land of New Holland Timor is a long high mountainous in Lat. 16° 50', having made our island, stretching NE. and SW. It course due south from the shoal that is about seventy leagues long, and we passed by the 31st of December. fifteen or sixteen wide ; the middle We ran in close by it, and finding no of the island is in Latitude about convenient anchoring, because it lies 9° S. I have been informed that the open to the NW. , we ran along shore Portuguese trade to this island, but I to the eastward, steering NE. by E., know nothing of its produce, besides for so the land lies. We steered thus Coir, for making cables.¹ about twelve leagues, and then came Being now clear of all the islands, to a point of land, whence the land we stood off south, intending to touch trends east and southerly for ten or at New Holland, a part of Terra Aus twelve leagues, but how afterwards I tralis Incognita, to see what that know not. About three leagues to In eastward of this point, there is a country would afford us. deed, as the winds were, we could pretty deep bay, with abundance not now keep our intended course of islands in it, and a very good (which was first westerly, and then place to anchor in, or to haul About a league to the northerly) without going to New ashore. Holland, unless we had gone back eastward of that point we anchored, January the 5th, 1688, two miles 1 Cordage made of cocoa-nut fibre. from the shore, in twenty - nine
254 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XVI. fathoms, good hard sand, and clean | houses and skin garments, sheep, ground. poultry, and fruits of the earth, os New Holland is a very large tract trich eggs, &c., as the Hodmadods of land. It is not yet determined have ; and setting aside their human whether it is an island or a main con shape, they differ but little from tinent ; but I am certain that it joins brutes. They are tall, straight neither to Asia, Africa, nor America. bodied, and thin, with small long This part of it that we saw is all low limbs. They have great heads, even land, with sandy banks against round foreheads, and great brows. the sea ; only the points are rocky, Their eyelids are always half- closed, and so are some of the islands in this to keep the flies out of their eyes, bay. The land is of a dry sandy soil, they being so troublesome here, that destitute of water, except you make no fanning will keep them from wells ; yet producing divers sorts coming to one's face ; and without of trees ; but the woods are not the assistance of both hands to keep thick, nor the trees very big. Most them off, they will creep into one's of the trees that we saw are dragon nostrils, and mouth too, if the lips trees, as we supposed ; and these two are not shut very close. So that are the largest trees of any there. from their infancy, being thus an They are about the bigness of our noyed with these insects, they do large apple trees, and about the same never open their eyes as other people, height, and the rind is blackish, and and therefore they cannot see far, somewhat rough. The leaves are of unless they hold up their heads, as a dark colour ; the gum distils out if they were looking at somewhat of the knots or cracks that are in the over them. They have great bottle bodies of the trees. We compared it noses, pretty full lips, and wide with some gum-dragon, or dragon's mouths. The two fore teeth of their blood, that was aboard, and it was of upper jaw are wanting in all of them, the same colour and taste. The other men and women, old and young ; sorts of trees were not known by any whether they draw them out, I know of us. There was pretty long grass not, neither have they any beards. growing under the trees ; but it was They are long-visaged, and of a very very thin. We saw no trees that unpleasing aspect, having no one bore fruit or berries. We saw no sort graceful feature in their faces. Their of animal, nor any track of beast, hair is black, short and curled, like but once, and that seemed to be the that of the Negroes, and not long tread of a beast as big as a great mas and lank like the common Indians. tiff dog. Here are a few small land The colour of their skins, both of birds, but none bigger than a black their faces and the rest of their body, bird, and but few sea- fowls. Neither is coal black, like that of the Negroes is the sea very plentifully stored with of Guinea. They have no sort of fish, unless you reckon the manatee clothes, but a piece of the rind of a and turtle as such. Of these crea tree, tied like a girdle about their tures there is plenty ; but they waists, and a handful of long grass, are extraordinary shy, though the or three or four small green boughs, inhabitants cannot trouble them full of leaves, thrust under their much, having neither boats nor girdle to cover their nakedness. arrows. They have no houses, but lie in the The inhabitants of this country are open air, without any covering, the the miserablest people in the world. earth being their bed, and the heaven The Hodmadods of Monomatapa, their canopy. Whether they cohabit though a nasty people, yet for wealth one man to one woman, or promiscu are gentlemen to these, who have no ously, I know not : but they do live in companies, twenty or thirty men, 1 The Hottentots of the Cape. See women, and children together. Their Chapter XX. only food is a small sort of fish, which
255 WRETCHEDNESS OF THE NATIVES. 1688. ] they get by making wears¹ of stone frighten us, who lying ashore deterred across little coves, or branches of the them from one of their fishing-places. sea ; every tide bringing in the small Some of them had wooden swords, fish, and there leaving them for a prey others had a sort of lances. The to these people, who constantly attend sword is a piece of wood, shaped there, to search for them at low water. somewhat like a cutlass. The lance This small fry I take to be the top of is a long straight pole, sharp at one their fishery they have no instru end, and hardened afterwards by heat. ments to catch great fish, should they I saw no iron, nor any other sort of come ; and such seldom stay to be metal : therefore it is probable they left behind at low water : nor could use stone hatchets, as some Indians we catch any fish with our hooks and in America do. " How they get their lines all the while we lay there. In fire I know not : but probably, as other places at low water they seek Indians do, out of wood. I have seen for cockles, mussels, periwinkles. Of the Indians of Buen Ayre³ do it, and these shell-fish there are fewer still ; have myself tried the experiment. so that their chief dependence is upon They take a flat piece of wood, that what the sea leaves in their wears, is pretty soft, and make a small dent which, be it much or little, they in one side of it : then they take an gather up, and march to the places other hard round stick, about the of their abode. There the old people, bigness of one's little finger, and that are not able to stir abroad by sharping it at one end like a pencil, reason of their age, and the tender they put that sharp end in the hole infants, wait their return ; and what or dent of the flat soft piece ; then Providence has bestowed on them, rubbing or twirling the hard piece they presently broil on the coals, and between the palms of their hands, eat it in common . Sometimes they they drill the soft piece till it smokes get as many fish as make them a and at last takes fire. plentiful banquet ; and at other times These people speak somewhatthrough they scarce get every one a taste : but the throat ; but we could not under be it little or much that they get, stand one word that they said. We every one has his part, as well the anchored, as I said before, January young and tender, as the old and the 5th, and seeing men walking on feeble, who are not able to go abroad, the shore, we presently sent a canoe and the strong and lusty. When to get some acquaintance with them : they have eaten, they lie down till for we were in hopes to get some pro the next low water, and then all that vision among them. But the inhabi are able to march out, be it night or tants, seeing our boat coming, ran day, rain or shine, it is all one : they awayand hid themselves. Wesearched must attend the wears, or else they afterwards three days, in hopes to find must fast. For the earth affords their houses, but found none ; yet we them no food at all. There is neither saw many places where they had made herb, root, pulse, nor any sort of fires. At last, being out of hopes to find their habitations, we searched no grain, for them to eat, that we saw nor any sort of bird or beast that they farther ; but left a great many toys can catch, having no instruments ashore, in such placeswherewe thought that they would come. In all our wherewithal to do so. I did not perceive that they did search we found no water, but old worship anything. These poor crea wells on the sandy bays. At last we tures have a sort of weapon to defend went over to the islands, and there we their wear, or fight with their enemies 2 Mentioned in Chapter IV., page if they have any that will interfere with their poor fishery. They did at 158. first endeavour with their weapons to 3 One of the Windward Islands, visited by the Author in 1681. 1 Dams or embankments.
256 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XVI. found a great many of the natives ; I purpose, for they stood like statues, do believe there were forty on one without motion, but grinned like so island, men, women, and children. many monkeys, staring one upon an The men, at our first coming ashore, other for these poor creatures seem threatened us with their lances and not accustomed to carry burthens : swords ; but they were frighted by and I believe that one of our ship firing one gun, which we fired pur boys of ten years old would carry as posely to scare them. The island was much as one of them. So we were so small, that they could not hide forced to carry our water ourselves ; themselves ; but they were much dis and they very fairly put the clothes ordered at our landing, especially the off again, and laid them down, as if women and children : for we went clothes were only to work in. I did directly to their camp. The lustiest not perceive that they had any great of the women, snatching up their liking to them at first ; neither did infants, ran away howling, and the they seem to admire¹ anything that little children ran after squeaking and we had. At another time our canoe being bawling ; but the men stood still. Some of the women, and such people among these islands seeking for game, as could not go from us, lay still by espied a drove of these men swimming a fire, making a doleful noise, as if from one island to another ; for they we had been coming to devour them. have no boats, canoes, or bark-logs. But when they saw we did not intend Theytook upfour of them, and brought to harm them, they were pretty quiet ; them aboard ; two ofthemwere middle and the rest, that fled from us at our aged, the other two were young men first coming, returned again. This about eighteen or twenty years old. their place of dwelling was only a fire, To these we gave boiled rice, and with with a few boughs before it, set up on it turtle and manatee boiled. They that side the wind was off. After we did greedily devour what we gave had been here a little while, the men them, but took no notice of the ship, began to be familiar, and we clothed or anything in it ; and when they some of them, designing to have had were set on land again, they ran away some service of them for it ; for we as fast as they could. At our first found some wells of water here, and coming, before we wereacquainted with intended to carry two or three barrels them, or they with us, a company of of it aboard. But it being somewhat them who lived on the main came troublesome to carry to the canoes, just against our ship, and, standing we thought to have made these men on a pretty high bank, threatened us to have carried it for us, and therefore with their swords and lances, by we gave them some clothes ; to one an shaking them at us : at last the Cap old pair of breeches, to another a tain ordered the drum to be beaten, ragged shirt, to a third a jacket that which was done of a sudden with was scarce worth owning : which yet much vigour, purposely to scare the would have been very acceptable at poor creatures. They, hearing the some places where we had been, and noise, ran away as fast as they could so we thought they might have been drive, and when they ran away in with these people. We put them on haste, they would cry " Gurry, Gurry, " them, thinking that this finery would speaking deep in the throat. Those have brought them to work heartily inhabitants also that live on the main for us ; and our water being filled in would always run away from us ; yet small long barrels, about six gallons we took several of them : for, as I in each, which were made purposely have already observed, they had such to carry water in, we brought these bad eyes that they could not see us our new servants to the wells, and put till we came close to them. We did a barrel on each of their shoulders for always give them victuals, and let them to carry to the canoe. But all the signs we could make were to no 1 Wonder, be surprised at.
257 DEPARTURE FROM NEW HOLLAND. 1088. ] them go again ; but the islanders, | fifty leagues to the cast of it ; and the after our first time of being among wind was now at SW.: therefore we did rather choose to bear away towards them, did not stir for us. When we had been here about a some islands on the west side of Su week, we hauled our ship into a small matra, than to beat against the wind sandy cove, at a spring-tide, as far as for the Island Cocos. I was very glad she would float : and at low water she of this, being in hopes to make my was left dry. All the neap-tides we escape from them to Sumatra, or lay wholly aground, for the sea did some other place. We met nothing not come near us by about a hundred of remark in this voyage, besides the yards. We had therefore time enough catching two great sharks, till tho to clean our ship's bottom, which we 28th. Then we fell in with a small did very well. Most of our men lay woody island, in Lat. 10° 30′. Its ashore in a tent, where our sails were Longitude from New Holland, whence mending and our strikers brought we came, was by my account 12° 6' W. home turtle and manatee every day, It was deep water about the island , which was our constant food . While and therefore no anchoring ; but wo we lay here, I did endeavour to per sent two canoes ashore -one of them suade our men to go to some English with the carpenters, to cut a tree to factory ; but was threatened to be make another pump-the other canoe turned ashore and left here for it. went to search for fresh water, and This made me desist, and patiently found a fine, small brook near the wait for some more convenient place SW. point of the island ; but there and opportunity to leave them, than the sea fell in on the shore so high, here which I did hope I should ac that they could not get it off. At complish in a short time ; because noon both our canoes returned aboard, they did intend, when they went and the carpenters brought aboard a hence, to bear down towards Cape good tree, which they afterwards made Comorin. In their way thither they a pump with, such as they made at designed also to visit the Island Cocos, Mindanao. The other canoe brought which lies in Lat. 12° 12′ N. by our aboard as many boobies and men-of draughts : hoping there to find of war birds as sufficed all the ship's that fruit, the island having its name company, when they were boiled . from thence.1 They got also a sort of land animal somewhat resembling a large craw fish without its great claws. These creatures lived in holes in the dry, CHAPTER XVII. sandy ground like rabbits. Sir Fran cis Drake, in his Voyage round the MARCH the 12th, 1688, we sailed from World, makes mention of such that New Holland, with the wind at he found at Ternate, or some other of NNW., and fair weather. We di the Spice Islands, or near them.¹ rected our course to the northward, They were very good sweet meat, and intending, as I said, to touch at the so large that two of them were more Island Cocos. It was the 26th of than a man could eat, being almost March before we were in the Latitude as thick as one's leg. Their shells of the island, which is in 12° 12' ; and were of a dark brown, but red when then, by judgment, we were forty or boiled. About 1 o'clock in the afternoon 1 Dampier lays it down, despite his we made sail from this island, with text, in his " Map of the East Indies, " the wind at SW. , and we steered in something between 12° and 13° NW. We met nothing of remark south of the Line, and to the SSW. till the 7th of April, and then, being of the Strait of Sunda. The island in Lat. 7° S. , we saw the land of is subsequently several times men 2 Sec page 65. tioned . R
258
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XVII . Sumatra at a great distance, bearing | a pretty large uninhabited island, in north. The 8th we saw the east end Lat. 3° 20′ S., and is full of high of the Island Sumatra very plainly, trees. About a mile from the Island we being then in Lat. 6° S The Nassau, there is a small island full of 10th, being in Lat. 5° 11', and about cocoa-nut trees. There we anchored seven or eight leagues from the Island the 20th to replenish our stock of Sumatra, on the west side of it, we cocoa-nuts. A reef of rocks lies saw abundance of cocoa-nuts swim- almost round this island, so that our ming in the sea, and we hoisted out boats could not go ashore, nor come our boat and took up some of them, aboard at low water, yet we got as also a small hatch, or scuttle rather, aboard four boat loads of nuts. The belonging to some bark. The nuts 21st we went from hence, and kept were very sound, and the kernel sweet; to the northward, coasting still on and in some the milk or water was the west side of the Island Sumatra. yet sweet and good. The 13th we The 25th we crossed the Equator, still came to a small island called Triste, coasting to the northward between in Lat. (by observation) 4° S. It is the Island Sumatra and a range of about fourteen or fifteen leagues to small islands lying fourteen or fifteen the west of the Island Sumatra. From leagues off it. Among all these islands, hence to the northward there are a Hog Island is the most considerable. great many small uninhabited islands It lies in Lat. 3° 40′ N. It is pretty lying much at the same distance from high even land, clothed with tall, Sumatra. This Island Triste is not a flourishing trees ; we passed by it on mile round, and so low, that the tide the 28th. The 29th we saw a sail to the north flows clear over it. It is of a sandy soil, and full of cocoa-nut trees. The of us, which we chased ; but it being nuts are but small, yet sweet enough, little wind, we did not come up with full, and more ponderous than I ever her till the 30th. Then, being within felt any of that bigness, notwith a league of her, Captain Reed went in standing that every spring-tide the a canoe and took her, and brought salt water goes clear over the island . her aboard. She was a proa with We sent ashore our canoes for cocoa four men in her, belonging to Achin, ¹ auts, and they returned aboard laden whither she was bound. She came with them three times. Our strikers from one of these cocoa-nut islands also went out and struck some fish, that we passed by, and was laden which was boiled for supper. They with cocoa-nuts and cocoa-nut oil. also killed two young alligators, which Captain Reed ordered his men to take aboard all the nuts, and as much of we salted for the next day. I had no opportunity at this place the oil as he thought convenient, and to make my escape, as I would have then cut a hole in the bottom of the done, and gone over hence to Sumatra, proa, and turned her loose, keeping could I have kept a boat with me. the men prisoners . It was not for But there was no compassing this ; the lucre of the cargo that Captain and so on the 15th we went from Reed took this boat, but to hinder hence, steering to the northward on me and some others from going ashore ; the west side of Sumatra. Our food for he knew that we were ready to now was rice and the meat of the make our escape if an opportunity cocoa-nuts rasped and steeped in water, presented itself, and he thought that which made a sort of milk, into which by his abusing and robbing the na we put our rice, making a pleasant tives, we should be afraid to trust mess enough. After we parted from ourselves among them. But yet this Triste, we saw other small islands that were also full of cocoa-nut trees. 1 Or Acheen, a native town at the The 19th, being in Lat. 3° 25' S. , the extreme north point of Sumatra, SW. point of the Island Nassau bore which now carries on an extensive N. about five miles distant. This is trade with Hindostan.
259 AT ANCHOR OFF NICOBAR ISLANDS. 1688.] proceeding of his turned to our great good and fragrant. At that island advantage, as shall be declared here where Captain Weldon was, there were two friars sent thither to con after. May the 1st we ran down by the vert the Indians. One of them came north-west end of the Island Sumatra, away with Captain Weldon, the other within seven or eight leagues of the remained there still. He that came shore. All this west side of Sumatra away with Captain Weldon gave a which we thus coasted along, our very good character of the inhabitants Englishmen at Fort St George call of that island, that they were very the West Coast, simply without add honest, civil, harmless people ; that ing the name of Sumatra. The pri they were not addicted to quarrelling, soners who were taken the day before theft, or murder ; that they did marry, showed us the islands that lie off or at least live as man and wife, one Achin harbour, and the channels man with one woman, never changing through which ships go in, and told till death made the separation ; that us also that there was an English they were punctual and honest in factory at Achin. I wished myself performing their bargains ; and that there, but was forced to wait with they were inclined to receive the patience till my time was come. We Christian religion. This relation I were now directing our course towards had afterwards from the mouth of a the Nicobar Islands, intending there priest at Tonquin, who told me that to clean the ship's bottom, in order to he received this information by a letter make her sail well. The 4th, in the from the friar that Captain Weldon evening, we had sight of one of the brought away from thence. But to Nicobar Islands. The southernmost proceed. of them lies about forty leagues The 5th of May we ran down on NNW. from the NW. end of the the west side of the Island Nicobar Island Sumatra. This most southerly properly so called, and anchored at of them is Nicobar itself, ¹ but all the the NW. end of it, in a small bay, in cluster of islands lying south of the eight fathoms water, not half-a-mile Andaman Islands are called by our from the shore. The body of this seamen the Nicobar Islands. island is in 7° 30′ N. Lat.; it is about The inhabitants of these islands twelve leagues long, and three or four have no certain converse with any broad. The south end of it is pretty nation ; but as ships pass by them high, with steep cliffs against the sea ; they will come aboard in their proas, the rest of the island is low, flat, and and offer their commodities for sale, even. The mould of it is black and never inquiring of what nation they deep, and it is very well watered with are for all white people are alike to small running streams. It produces them. Their chief commodities are abundance of tall trees fit for any ambergris and fruits. Ambergris is uses : for the whole bulk of it seems often found by the native Indians of to be but one entire grove. But that these islands, who know it very well, which adds most to its beauty off at as also know how to cheat ignorant sea are the many spots of cocoa-nut strangers with a certain mixture like trees which grow round it in every it. Several of our men bought such small bay. The bays are half-a-mile of them for a small purchase. Cap or a mile long, more or less, and these tain Weldon also about this time bays are intercepted or divided from touched at some of these islands to each other with as many little rocky the north of the island where we lay, points of woodland. As the cocoa and I saw a great deal of such amber nut trees do thus grow in groves gris that one of his men bought there, fronting to the sea in the bays, so but it was not good, having no smell there is another sort of fruit tree in at all. Yet I saw some there very the bays bordering on the back side of the cocoa trees farther from the sea. It is called by the natives a melory 1 Great Nicobar.
260 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XVII. Indeed, one tree. This tree is as big as our large should I design it. apple trees, and as high. It has a reason that put me on the thoughts blackish rind, and a pretty broad of staying at this particular place, leaf. The fruit is as big as the bread besides the present opportunity of fruit at Guam, or a large penny loaf. leaving Captain Reed, which I did It is shaped like a pear, and has a always intend to do as soon as I could, pretty tough smooth rind of a light was, that I had here also a prospect green colour. The inside of the fruit of advancing a profitable trade for is in substance much like an apple, ambergris with these people, and of but full of small strings as big as a gaining a considerable fortune for my brown thread. I did never see these self ; for in a short time I might have learned their language, and by accus trees anywhere but here. The natives of this island are tall, toming myself to row with them in well-limbed men ; pretty long-visaged, their proas or canoes, especially by with black eyes ; their noses middle conforming myself to their customs proportioned, and the whole symmetry and manners of living, I should have of their faces agreeing very well. seen howthey got their ambergris, and Their hair is black and lank, and have known what quantities they got, their skin of a dark copper colour. and the time of the year when most The women have no hair on their is found. And then afterwards, I eyebrows. I do believe it is plucked thought it would be easy for me tc up by the roots ; for the men had hair have transported myself from thence, growing on their eyebrows, as other either in some ship that passed this people. [The men all go naked, save way, whether English, Dutch, or a long, narrow strip of cloth round Portuguese, or else to have got some their waist. The women wear a short of the young men of the island to petticoat reaching from their waist to have gone with me in one of their the knee. Their houses are described canoes to Achin, and there to have as small, square, and low, and curi furnished myself with such commodi ously thatched with palmetto leaves. ties as I found most coveted by them ; Their canoes are commonly manned and therewith, at my return, to have by twenty or thirty natives, and sel bought their ambergris. dom fewer than nine or ten.] • • I had, till this time, made no open But to proceed with our affairs. It show of going ashore here. But now, was, as I said, before the 5th of May, the water being filled, and the ship about ten in the morning, when we in readiness to sail, I desired Cap anchored at this island. Captain tain Reed to set me ashore on this Reed immediately ordered his men island. He, supposing that I could to heel the ship, in order to clean not go ashore in a place less frequented her, which was done this day and the by ships than this, gave me leave, next. All the water vessels were which probably he would have re filled, they intending to go to sea at fused, if he thought I should have night ; for the winds being yet at got from hence in any short time ; NNE., the Captain was in hopes to for fear of my giving an account of get over to Cape Comorin before the him to the English or Dutch. I wind shifted, otherwise it would have soon got up my chest and bedding, been somewhat difficult for him to and immediately got some to row get thither, because the westerly me ashore, for fear lest his mind The canoe monsoon was now at hand. I thought should change again. now was my time to make my escape, that brought me ashore landed me on by getting leave, if possible, to stay a small sandy bay, where there were here. For it seemed not very feasible two houses, but no person in them . to do it by stealth ; and I had no For the inhabitants were removed to reason to despair of getting leave, some other house, probably for fear this being a place where my stay of us, because the ship was close by ; could probably do our crew no harm, and yet both men and women came
261 DAMPIER LEAVES THE SHIP. 1688.] aboard the ship without any sign of and Ambrose, and I were again set fear. When our ship's canoe was ashore ; and one of the men that going aboard again, they met the rowed us ashore stole an axe and gave owner of the houses coming ashore in it to us, knowing it was a good com It was his boat. He made a great many modity with the Indians. signs to them to fetch me off again ; now dark, therefore we lighted a but they would not understand candle, and I being the oldest stander him. Then he came to me and in our new country, conducted them offered his boat to carry me off ; into one of the houses , where we did but I refused. Then he made signs presently hang up our hammocks . We for me to go up into the house, and had scarce done this, before the canoe according as I did understand him by came ashore again, and brought the his signs, and a few Malay words four Malay men belonging to Achin, that he used, he intimated that some which we took in the proa we took what would come out of the woods in off Sumatra, and the Portuguese that the night, when I was asleep, and came to our ship out of the Siam junk kill me, meaning probably some at Pulo Condore, the crew having no wild beast. Then I carried my chest occasion for these, being leaving the and clothes up into the house. Malay parts, where the Portuguese I had not been ashore an hour, be served as an interpreter ; and not fore Captain Tait, and one John Dama fearing now that the Achinese could rell, with three or four armed men be serviceable to us in bringing us more, came to fetch me aboard again. over to their country, forty leagues They need not have sent an armed off. Nor imagining that we durst posse for me, for had they but sent make such an attempt, as, indeed, it the cabin-boy ashore for me, I would was a bold one. Now we were men not have denied going aboard. For enough to defend ourselves against though I could have hid myself in the the natives of this island, if they woods, yetthenthey would haveabused should prove our enemies ; though if or have killed some of the natives, none of these men had come ashore purposely to incense them against to me, I should not have feared any me. I told them, therefore, that I danger. Nay, perhaps less, because was ready to go with them, and went I should have been cautious of giving aboard with all my things. When I any offence to the natives ; and Iam of came aboard I found the ship in an the opinion, that there are no people uproar, for there were three men more, in the world so barbarous as to kill a who, taking courage by my example, single person that falls accidentally desired leave also to accompany me. into their hands, or comes to live One of them was the surgeon, Mr among them, except they have before Coppinger, the others were Mr Robert been injured by some outrage or Hall, and one named Ambrose ; I violence committed against them . have forgot his surname. These men Yet even then, or afterwards, if a man had always harboured the same de could but preserve his life from their signs as I had. The two last were first rage, and come to treat with not much opposed ; but Captain Reed them (which is the hardest thing, be and his crew would not part with the cause their way is usually to abscond, ¹ surgeon. At last the surgeon leaped and rushing suddenly upon their into the canoe, and taking up my enemy, to kill him at unawares), gun, swore he would go ashore, and one might, by some sleight, insinuate if any man did oppose it, he would one's self into their favour again ; shoot him. But John Oliver, who especially by showing some toy or was then quarter-master, leaped into knack that they did never see before, the canoe, taking hold of him, took which any European that has seen the away the gun, and with the help of world might soon contrive to amuse two or three more, they dragged him 1 Conceal themselves. again into the ship. Then Mr Hall,
262
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XVII . them withal, as might be done, gene settle themselves on those islands rally, even with a little fire struck where they had planted themselves : with a flint and steel. yet even these people would not hurt As for the common opinion of An a single person, as I have been told thropophagi, or man-eaters, I did by some that have been prisoners never meet with any such people. among them. I could instance also All nations or families in the world the Indians of Bocca Toro and Bocca that I have seen or heard of, having Drago, and many other places where some sort of food to live on, either they do live, as the Spaniards call it, fruit, grain, pulse, or roots, which wild and savage ; yet there they have grow naturally, or else planted by been familiar with privateers, but by them, if not fish, and land animals abuses have withdrawn their friend besides (yea, even the people of New ship again. As for these Nicobar Holland had fish amidst all their people, I found them affable enough, penury), would scarce kill a man pur and therefore did not fear them ; but posely to eat him. I know not what I did not much care whether I had barbarous customs may formerly have gotten any more company or no. But, been in the world : and to sacrifice however, I was very well satisfied, their enemies to their gods is a thing and the rather because we were now that has been much talked of with men enough to row ourselves over to relation to the savages of America. the Island Sumatra ; and accordingly I am a stranger to that also, if it be we presently consulted how to pur or have been customary in any nation chase a canoe of the natives. there ; and yet, if they sacrifice their It was a fine clear moonlight night enemies, it is not necessary they in which we were left ashore. There should eat them too. After all, I fore we walked on the sandy bay, to will not be peremptory in the nega watch when the ship would weigh tive, but I speak as to the compass and be gone, not thinking ourselves of my own knowledge, and know secure in our new-gotten liberty till some of these cannibal stories to be then. About 11 or 12 o'clock we false ; and many of them have been saw her under sail, and then we re disproved since I first went to the turned to our chamber, and so to West Indies. At that time how bar sleep. This was the 6th of May. barous were the poor Florida Indians The next morning betimes, our land accounted, which now we find to be lord, with four or five of his friends, civil enough ? What strange stories came to see his new guests, and was have we heard of the Indians whose somewhat surprised to see so many of islands were called the Isles of Canni us, for he knew of no more but my bals? Yet we find that they trade very self. Yet he seemed to be very well civilly with the French and Spaniards, pleased, and entertained us with a and have done so with us. I own that large calabash of toddy, which he they have formerly endeavoured to brought with him. Before he went destroy our plantations at Barbadoes, away again (for wheresoever we came, and have since hindered us from they left their houses to us, but tettling the Island Santa Lucia, by whether out of fear or superstition I destroying two or three colonies suc know not), we bought a canoe of him cessively of those that were settled for an axe, and did presently put our there ; and even the Island Tobago chests and clothes in it, designing to has been often annoyed and ravaged go to the south end of the island, by them, when settled by the Dutch, and lie there till the monsoon shifted, and still lies waste (though a delicate which we expected every day. When fruitful island) as being too near the our things were stowed away, we with Caribbees on the continent, who the Achinese entered with joy into visit it every year. But this was to our new frigate, and launched off preserve their own right, by endea from the shore. We were no sooner vouring to keep out any that would off, but our canoo overset, bottom
263 A CANOE UPSET. 1688. ] upwards. We preserved our lives cocoa-nuts, or toddy, our Malays of well enoughby swimming, and dragged Achin would climb the trees, and also our chests and clothes ashore ; fetch as many nuts as we would have, but all our things were wet. I had and a good pot of toddy every morn nothing of value but my journal, and ing. Thus we lived till our melory some draughts of land of my own tak- was almost spent ; being still in hopes ing, which I much prized, and which that the natives would come to us, I had hitherto carefully preserved. and sell it as they had formerly done. Mr Hall had also such another cargo But they came not to us : nay, they of books and draughts, which were opposed us wherever we came, and now like to perish. But we presently often shaking their lances at us, opened our chests, and took out our made all the show of hatred that books, which, with much ado, we did they could invent. At last, when afterwards dry ; but some of our we saw that they stood in opposition draughts that lay loose in our chests to us, we resolved to use force to get were spoiled. We lay here afterwards some of their food , ifwe could not get three days, making great fires to dry it other ways. With this resolution, our books. The Achinese in the we went in our canoe to a small bay meantime fixed our canoe with out on the north part of the island, lagers on each side ; and they also because it was smooth water there, cut a good mast for her, and made a and good landing ; but on the other substantial sail with mats. side, the wind being yet on that The canoe being now very well quarter, we could not land without fixed, and our books and clothes dry, jeopardy of oversetting our canoo we launched out the second time, and wetting our arms, and then we and rowed towards the east side of must have lain at the mercy of our the island, leaving many islands to enemies, who stood 200 or 300 men the north of us. The Indians of the in every bay where they saw us com island accompanied us with eight or ing, to keep us off. ten canoes, against our desire ; for When we set out, we rowed directly we thought that these men would to the north end, and presently were make provision dearer at that side of followed by seven or eight of their the island we were going to, by giving canoes. They keeping at a distance, an account what rates we gave for it rowed away faster than we did, and at the place whence we came, which got to the bay before us and there, was owing to the ship's being there ; with about twenty more canoes full for the ship's crew were not so thirsty of men, they all landed and stood to in bargaining (as they seldom are) as hinder us from landing. But we single persons or a few men might be rowed in within a hundred yards of apt to be, who would keep to one them ; then we lay still, and I took bargain. Therefore to hinder them my gun, and presented at them : at from going with us, Mr Hall scared which they all fell down flat on the one canoe's crew by firing a shot over ground. But I turned myself about, them. They all leaped overboard, and and, to show that we did not intend cried out ; but seeing us row away, to harm them, I fired my gun off to they got into their canoes again, and sea, so that they might see the shot came after us. The firing of that graze on the water. As soon as my gun made all the inhabitants of the gun was loaded again, we rowed island our enemies. For presently gently in ; at which some of them after this we put ashore, at a bay withdrew. The rest, standing up, where were four houses and a great did still cut and hew the air, making many canoes : but they all went signs of their hatred ; till I once gun, away, and came near us no more, for more frighted them with my Then several days. We had then a great and discharged it as before. loaf of melory, which was our con more of them sneaked away, leaving stant food ; and if we had a mind to only five or six men on the bay. Then
264 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XVIII. we rowed in again, and Mr Hall, | which we had expected a great while, taking his sword in his hand, leaped and now it seemed to be at hand ; ashore ; and I stood ready with my for the clouds began to hang their gun to fire at the Indians, if they had heads to the eastward, and at last injured him. But they did not stir, moved gently that way ; and though till he came to them, and saluted the wind was still at east, yet this them. He shook them by the hand, was an infallible sign that the western and by such signs of friendship as he monsoon was nigh. made, the peace was concluded, rati fied and confirmed by all that were present ; and others that were gone CHAPTER XVIII. were again called back, and they all very joyfully accepted of a peace. This became universal over all the IT was the 15th of May 1688, about island, to the great joy of the inhabit 4 o'clock in the afternoon, when we ants. There was no ringing of bells, left Nicobar Island, directing our nor bonfires made, for that is not the course toward Achin, being eight custom here ; but gladness appeared men of us in company-viz., three in their countenances, for now they English, four Malays who were born could go out and fish again without at Achin, and the mongrel Portu · fear of being taken. This peace was guese. Our vessel, the Nicobar canoe, not more welcome to then than to was not one of the biggest nor of the us ; for now the inhabitants brought least size. She was much about the their melory again to us ; which we burthen of one of our London wher bought for old rags, and small stripes ries below bridge, and built sharp at of cloth, about as broad as the palm both ends, like the forepart of a of one's hand. I did not see above wherry. Shewas deeper than awherry, five or six hens, for they have but but not so broad, and was so thin few on the island. At some places and light that when empty, four men we saw some small hogs, which we could launch her, or haul her ashore could have bought of them reason on a sandy bay. We had a good sub ably ; but we would not offend our stantial mast and a mat sail, and good Achinese friends, who were Mahome- outlagers lashed very fast and firm on tans. each side the vessel, being made of We stayed here two or three days, strong poles. So that while these and then rowed toward the south end continued firm the vessel could not of the island, keeping on the east overset, which she would easily have side, and we were kindly received by done without them, and with them the natives wherever we came. When too, had they not been made very we arrived at the south end of the strong ; and we were therefore much island, we fitted ourselves with melory beholden to our Achinese companions and water. We bought three or four for this contrivance. These men were loaves of melory, and about twelve none of them so sensible of the danger large cocoa- nut shells, that had all as Mr Hall and myself, for they all the kernel taken out, yet were pre confided so much in us that they did served whole, except only a small hole not so much as scruple anything that at one end ; and all these held for us we did approve of. Neither was Mr about three gallons and a half of Hall so well provided as I was, for water. We bought also two or three before we left the ship I had purposely bamboos, that held about four or five consulted our draught of the East gallons more this was our sca-store. Indics (for we had but one in the We now designed to go to Achin, a ship), and out of that I had written town on the NW. end of the Island in my pocket-book an account of the Sumatra, distant from hence about bearing and distance of all the_Ma forty leagues, bearing SSE. We only lacca coast, and that ofSumatra, Pegu, waited for the western monsoon, and Siam ; and also brought away
AT SEA IN 1688.1 with me a pocket compass for my direction in any enterprize that I should undertake. The weather at our setting out was very fair, clear, and hot. The wind was still at SE., a very small breeze just fanning the air ; and the clouds were moving gently from west to east, which gave us hopes that the winds were either at west already, abroad at sea, or would be so in a very short time. We took this opportunity of fair weather, being in hopes to accom plish our voyage to Achin before the western monsoon was set in strong, knowing that we should have very blustering weather after this fair weather, especially at the first coming of the western monsoon. We rowed, therefore, away to the southward, supposing that when we were clear from the island we should have a true wind, as we call it, for the land hauls the wind ; and we often find the wind at sea different from what it is near the shore. We rowed with four oars, taking our turns ; Mr Hall and I steered also by turns, for none of the rest were capable of it. We rowed the first afternoon, and the night en suing, about twelve leagues, by my judgment. Our course was SSE. , but the 16th, in the morning, when the sun was an hour high, we saw the island whence we came, bearing NW. by N. Therefore I found we had gone a point more to the east than I intended, for which reason we steered S. by E. In the afternoon , at 4 o'clock, we had a gentle breeze at WSW., which continued so till 9, all which time we laid down our oars and steered away SSE. I was then at the helm, and I found by the rip pling of the sea that there was a strong current against us. It made a great noise that might be heard near half-a-mile. At 9 o'clock it fell calm, and so continued till 10. Then the wind sprung up again, and blew a fresh breeze all night. The 17th, in the morning, we looked out for the Island Sumatra, supposing that we were now within twenty leagues of it, for we had rowed and sailed, by our reckoning, twenty
265 A CANOE. four leagues from Nicobar Island ; and the distance from Nicobar to Achin is about forty leagues. But we looked in vain for the Island Sumatra, for, turning ourselves about, we saw, to our grief, Nicobar Island lyingWNW. , and not above eight leagues distant. By this it was visible that we had met a very strong current against us in the night. But the wind freshened on us, and we made the best of it while the weather continued fair. The 18th, the wind freshened on us again, and the sky began to be clouded. It was indifferent clear till noon, and we thought to have had an observation ; but we were hindered by the clouds that covered the face of the sun when it came on the meridian. We had then also a very ill presage by a great circle about the sun (five or six times the diameter of it), which seldom appears but storms of wind or much rain ensue. Such circles about the moon are more frequent, but of less import. We commonly take great notice of those that are about the sun, observing if there be any breach in the circle, and in what quarter the breach is, for thence we commonly find the greatest stress of the wind will come. I must confess that I was a little anxious at the sight of this circle, and wished heartily that we were near some land. Yet I showed no signs of it to discourage my consorts, but made a virtue of necessity and put a good countenance on the matter. I told Mr Hall that if the wind became too strong and violent, as I feared it would, it being even then very strong, we must of necessity steer away before the wind and sea till better weather presented ; and that, as the winds were now, we should, instead of about twenty leagues to Achin, be driven sixty or seventy leagues to thecoast of Cudda orQueda, ¹ a kingdom and town and harbour of trade on the coast of Malacca. The winds therefore bearing very 1 Quedah, on the western coast of the Malayan Peninsula, a little to the north of the British settlement of Pulo Penang.
266 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XVIII. hard, we rolled up the foot of our sail | can express the confusion that we on a pole fastened to it, and settled were all in. I had been in many im our yard within three feet of the minent dangers before now, some of canoe sides, so that we had now but which I have already related ; but a small sail ; yet it was still too big, the worst of them all was but a play considering the wind, for the wind game in comparison with this. I being on our broadside, pressed her must confess that I was in great con down very much, though supported flicts of mind at this time. Other by her outlagers, insomuch that the dangers came not upon me with such poles of the outlagers going from the a leisurely and dreadful solemnity : sides of their vessel bent as if they a sudden skirmish or engagement or would break ; and should they have so was nothing when one's blood was broken, our overturning and perish- up and pushed forward with eager ing had been inevitable. Besides, the expectations. But here I had a lin sea increasing would soon have filled gering view of approaching death, and the vessel this way. Yet thus we little or no hopes of escaping it ; and made a shift to bear up with the side I must confess that my courage, which of the vessel against the wind for a I had hitherto kept up, failed me while ; but the wind still increasing, here ; and I made very sad reflections about 1 o'clock in the afternoon we on my former life, and looked back put away right before wind and sea, with horror and detestation on actions continuing torun thus all theafternoon which before I disliked, but now I and part of the night ensuing. The trembled at the remembrance of. I wind continued increasing all the had long before this repented me of afternoon, and the sea still swelled that roving course of life, but never higher and often broke, but did us no with such concern as now. I did damage ; for the ends of the vessel also call to mind the many miraculous being very narrow, he that steered acts of God's providence towards me received and broke the sea on his in the whole course of my life, of back, and so kept it from coming in which kind I believe few men have so much as to endanger the vessel ; met with the like. For all these I though much water would come in, returned thanks in a peculiar man which we were forced to keep heaving ner, and this once more desired God's out continually. And by this time assistance, and composed my mind as we saw it was well that we had altered well as I could in the hopes of it ; our course, every wave would else and, as the event showed, I was not have filled and sunk us, taking the disappointed of my hopes. Submitting ourselves therefore to side of the vessel ; and though our outlagers were well lashed down to God's good providence , and taking the canoe's bottom with rattans, yet all the care we could to preserve our they must probably have yielded to lives, Mr Hall and I took turns to such a sea as this, when even before steer, and the rest took turns to they were plunged under water and heave out the water, and thus we pro vided to spend the most doleful night bent like twigs. I ever was in. About 10 o'clock it The evening of this 18th was very dismal. The sky looked very black, began to thunder, lighten, and rain ; being covered with dark clouds ; the but the rain was very welcome to wind blew hard and the seas ran high. us, having drunk up all the water The sea was already roaring in a white we brought from the island. The foam about us, a dark night coming wind at first blew harder than be on, no land in sight to shelter us, and fore ; but within half-an-hour it cur little ark in danger to be swallow abated, and became more moderate, ed by every wave ; and what was and the sea also assuaged of its fury ; worst of all, none of us thought our and then by a lighted match, of which selves prepared for another world. we kept a piece burning on purpose, The reader may better guess than I we looked on our compass to see how
267 HARDSHIPS OF THE VOYAGE. we steered, and found our course to for Pulo Way is the Island Way. be still east. We had no occasion to We, who were dripping with wet, look on the compass before, for we cold and hungry, were all overjoyed steered right before the wind, which at the sight of the land, and presently if it had shifted, we had been obliged marked its bearing. It bore south , to have altered our course accordingly, and the wind was still at west, a But now it being abated, we found strong gale ; but the sea did not run our vessel lively enough, with that so high as in the night. Therefore small sail which was then aboard, to we trimmed our small sail no bigger haul to our former course, SSE. , than an apron, and steered with it. which accordingly we did, being now Now our outlagers did us a great in hopes again to get to the Island | kindness again ; for although we had Sumatra. But about 2 o'clock in but a small sail, yet the wind was the morning of the 19th, we had an strong, and pressed down our vessel's other gust of wind, with much thun side very much ; but being supported der, lightning, and rain, which lasted by the outlagers, we could brook it till day, and obliged us to put before well enough, which otherwise we the wind again, steering thus for could not have done. About noon we several hours. It was very dark, and saw more land, beneath the supposed the hard rain soaked us so thoroughly, Pulo Way ; and steering towards it, that we had not one dry thread about before night we saw all the coast of us. The rain chilled us extremely ; Sumatra, and found the errors of our for any fresh water is much colder Achinese ; for the high land that we than that of the sea. For even in first saw, which then appeared like the coldest climates the sea is warm, an island, was not Pulo Way, but a and in the hottest climates the rain great high mountain on the Island is cold and unwholesome for man's Sumatra, called by the English the body. In this wet starveling plight Golden Mountain. Our wind con. we spent the tedious night. Never tinued till about 7 o'clock at night, did poor mariners on a lee-shore more then it abated, and at 10 o'clock it earnestly long for the dawning light, died away. And then we stuck to than we did now. At length the day our oars again, though all of us quite appeared ; but with such dark black tired with our former fatigues and clouds near the horizon, that the first hardships. glimpse of the dawn appeared thirty The next morning, being the 20th, or forty degrees high, which was we saw all the low land plain, and dreadful enough. For it is a com judged ourselves not above eight mon saying among seamen, and true, leagues off. About 8 o'clock in the as I have experienced, that a high morning we had the wind again at dawn will have high winds, and a west, a fresh gale ; and steering in still for the shore, at 5 o'clock in the low dawn, small winds. We continued our course still east, afternoon we ran to the mouth of a before wind and sea, till about 8 river on the Island Sumatra, called It is thirty-four o'clock in the morning of this 19th, Passange Jonca. and then one of our Malay friends leagues to the eastward of Achin, and cried out, " Pulo Way.' Mr Hall, six leagues to the west of Diamond and Ambrose, and I, thought the Point. Our Malays were very well fellow had said " Pull away," an ex acquainted here, and carried us to a pression usual among English seamen small fishing village, within a mile when they are rowing ; and we won of the river's mouth, called also by dered what he meant by it, till we the name of the River Passange saw him point to his consorts, and Jonca. The hardships of this voyage, then we looking that way, saw land with the scorching heat of the sun at appearing like an island, and all our our first setting out, and the cold Malays said it was an island at the rain, and our continuing wet for the NW. end of Sumatra, called Way, last two days, cast us all into fevers,
1688.1
268 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XVIII. so that now we were not able to help | kill us, for having brought them this each other, nor so much as to get our voyage ; yet I question whether they canoe up to the village ; but our would attempted, or the country Malays got some of the townsmen to people have suffered it. We made a shift to dress our own food ; for none bring her up. The news of our arrival being of these people, though they were noised abroad, one of the Oramkais, very kind in giving us anything that or noblemen of the island, came in we wanted, would yet come near us the night to see us. We were then to assist us in dressing our victuals ; lying in a small hut at the end of the nay, they would not touch anything town, and it being late, this lord only that we used. We had all fevers, viewed us, and having spoken with and therefore took turns to dress our Malays, went away again ; but he victuals, according as we had strength · returned to us the next day, and to do it, or stomachs to eat it. I provided a large house for us to live found my fever to increase, and my in, till we should be recovered of our head so distempered, that I could sickness ; ordering the town's-people scarce stand , therefore I whetted and to let us want for nothing. The sharpened my penknife, in order to Achinese Malays that came with us, let myself blood ; but I could not, told them all the circumstances of for my knife was too blunt. We our voyage ; how they were taken by stayed here ten or twelve days, in our ship, and where, and how we hopes to recover our health ; but that came with them were prisoners finding no amendment, we desired to aboard the ship, and had been set go to Achin. But we were delayed ashore together at Nicobar, as they by the natives, who had a desire to were. It was for this reason, pro have kept Mr Hall and myself, to bably, that the gentlemen of Sumatra sail in their vessels to Malacca, Cudda, were thus extraordinary kind to us, or other places whither they trade. to provide everything that we had But finding us more desirous to be nced of ; nay, they would force us to with our countrymen in our factory accept of presents from them, that we at Achin, they provided a large proa knew not what to do with, as young to carry us thither, we not being buffaloes, goats, &c. , for these wewould able to manage our own canoe. Be turn loose at night, after the gentle sides, before this, three of our Malay men that gave them to us were gone, comrades were gone very sick into for we were prompted by our Achinese the country, and only one ofthem and consorts to accept of them for fear of the Portuguese remained with us, disobliging by our refusal. But the accompanying us to Achin, and they cocoa-nuts, plantains, fowls, eggs, both as sick as we. fish, and rice, we kept for our use. It was the beginning of June 1688, The Malays that accompanied us when we left Passange Jonca. We from Nicobar separated themselves had four men to row, one to steer, from us now, living at one end of and a gentleman of the country that the house by themselves, for they went purposely to give information were Mahometans, as all those of the to the Government of our arrival. kingdom of Achin are ; and though We were but three days and nights during our passage by sea together in our passage, having sea-breezes by we made them be contented to drink day and land winds by night, and their water out of the same cocoa very fair weather. When we arrived shell with us, yet, being now no at Achin, I was carried before the longer under that necessity, they Shabander, the chief magistrate in again took up their accustomed the city. One Mr Dennis Driscall, nicety and reservedness. They all lay an Irishman, and a resident in the sick, and as their sickness increased, factory which our East India Com one of them threatened us, that if pany had there then, was interpreter. any of them died, the rest should I, being weak, was suffered to stand
269 DAMPIER'S ILLNESS AT ACHEEN. 1688. ] in the Shabander's presence ; for it is abroad ; and having been kindly in their custom to make men sit on the vited to Captain Bowry's house there, floor, as they do, cross-legged like my first visit was to him, who had a tailors ; but I had not strength then ship in the road, but lived ashore. to pluck up my heels in that manner. This gentleman was extraordinary The Shabander asked of me several kind to us all, particularly to me, questions, especially how we durst and importuned me to go as his adventure to come in a canoe from boatswain to Persia, whither he was Nicobar Island to Sumatra. I told bound, with a design to sell his ship him that I had been accustomed to there, as I was told, though not by hardships and hazards, therefore I himself. Thence he intended to pass did with much freedom undertake it. with the caravan to Aleppo, and so He inquired also concerning our ship, home for England. His business re whence she came, & c. I told him, quired him to stay some time longer from the South Seas ; that she had at Achin, I judge, to sell some com ranged about the Philippine Islands, modities that he had not yet disposed &c. , and was now gone towards of. Yet he chose rather to leave the Arabia and the Red Sea. The Malays disposal of them to some merchant also and Portuguese were afterwards there, and make a short trip to the examined, and confirmed what I de Nicobar Islands in the meantime, clared ; and in less than half-an-hour and on his return to take in his ef I was dismissed with Mr Driscall, fects, and so proceed towards Persia. who then lived in the English East This was a sudden resolution of Cap India Company's factory. He pro tain Bowry's presently after the arri vided a room for us to lie in, and val of a small frigate from Siam, with some victuals. an Ambassador from the King of Siam Three days after our arrival here, to the Queen of Achin. The Ambas our Portuguese died of a fever. What sador was a Frenchman by nation. became of our Malays I know not. The vessel that he came in was but Ambrose lived not long after. Mr small, yet very well manned, and Hall also was so weak, that I did not fitted for a fight. Therefore it was think he would recover. I was the generally supposed here that Captain best, yet still very sick of a fever, Bowry was afraid to lie in Achin and little likely to live. Therefore Road, because the Siamese were now Mr Driscall and some other English at war with the English, and he was men persuaded me to take some not able to defend his ship if he purging physic of a Malay doctor. I should be attacked by them. But took their advice, being willing to whatever made him think of going get ease ; but after three dozes, each to the Nicobar Islands, he provided a large calabash of nasty stuff, finding to sail, and took me, Mr Hall, and no amendment, I thought to desist Ambrose with him, though all of us from more physic, but was persuaded so sick and weak that we could do to take one doze more ; which I did, him no service. It was some time and it wrought so violently, that I about the beginning of June when thought it would have ended my we sailed out of Achin Road ; but we days. I thought my Malay doctor, met with the winds at NW. , with whom they so much commended, turbulent weather, which forced us would have killed me outright. I back again in two days' time. Yet continued extraordinary weak for he gave us each twelve “ mess " a some days after his drenching me piece-a gold coin, each of which is thus; but my fever left me for above about the value of fifteenpence Eng a week, after which it returned upon lish. So he gave over that design, me again for a twelvemonth, and a and some English ships coming into flux with it. However, when I was Achin Road, he was not afraid of the a little recovered from the effects of Siamese who lay there. After this my drench, I made a shift to go he again invited me to his house et
270 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XVIII. Achin, and treated me always with | In short, it may suffice that I set out wine and good cheer, and still impor- to Tonquin with Captain Welden tuned me to go with him to Persia. about July 1688, and returned to But I being very weak, and fearing | Achin in the April following. I stayed the westerly winds would create a there till the latter end of September great deal of trouble, did not give 1689, and making a short voyage to him a positive answer, especially be- Malacca, came thither again_about cause I thought I might get a better Christmas. Soon after that I went voyage in the English ships newly to Fort St George, and staying there arrived, or some others now expected about five months, I returned once here.1 more to Sumatra ; not to Achin, but A short time after this, Captain to Bencouli, an English factory on Welden arrived here from Fort St the west coast, of which I was gunner George, in a ship called the Cartana, about five months more. So that, bound to Tonquin . This being a having brought my reader to Sumatra, more agreeable voyage than to Persia, without carrying him back, I shall at this time of the year, besides that bring him on next way from thence the ship was better accommodated, to England . And of all that occurred especially with a surgeon, and I between my first setting out from this being still sick, I therefore chose island in 1688, and my final departure rather to serve Captain Welden than from it at the beginning of the year Captain Bowry. But to go on with 1691, I shall only take notice at pre a particular account of that expedi sent of two passages which I think I tion were to carry my reader back ought not to omit. again ; whom having brought thus The first is, that at my return from far towards England in my circum Malacca, a little before Christmas navigation of the Globe, I shall not 1689, I found at Achin one Mr Mor now weary him with new rambles, nor gan, who was one of our ship's crew so much swell this volume, as I must, that left me ashore at Nicobar, now to describe the tour I made in those mate of a Danish ship of Trangambar, " remote parts of the East Indies from which is a town on the Coast of Coro and to Sumatra. So that my voyage mandel, near Cape Comorin, belong to Tonquin at this time, as also ing to the Danes : and receiving an another to Malacca afterwards, with account of our crew from him and my observations in them, and the others, I thought it might not be descriptions of those and the neigh amiss to gratify the reader's curiosity bouring countries ; as well as the therewith, who would probably be description of the Island Sumatra desirous to know the success of those itself, and therein the kingdom and ramblers in their new intended ex city of Achin, Bencouli, 2 & c. , I shall pedition towards the Red Sea. And refer to another place, where I may withal I thought it might not be un give a particular relation of them.3 likely that these papers might fall into the hands of some of our London 1 Captain Bowry was the writer of merchants, who were concerned in the letter from Borneo to the " Eng- fitting out that ship ; which, I said lish factory at Mindanao, " referred to formerly, was called the Cygnet of London, sent on a trading voyage in 2Chapter XIII. Bencoolen, where the English had into the South Seas, under the com settled in 1685, and where a year or mand of Captain Swan. To proceed two later the East India Company therefore with Morgan's relation. He built a fort, which was called Fort told me, that when they in the Cyg York. net went away from Nicobar, in pur This Dampier does in Appendix suit of their intended voyage to Persia, No. I to his greater work. See In troductory Note to " The Author's Tranquebar, then capital of the Account of Himself, Danish possessions in India.
FRESH DESERTIONS 1689. ] they directed their course towards Ceylon. But not being able to weather it, the westerly monsoon bearing hard against them, they were obliged to seek refreshment on the Coast of Coro mandel. Here this mad, fickle crew were upon new projects again ; their designs meeting with such delays and obstructions, that many of them grew weary of it, and about half of them went ashore. Of this number, Mr Morgan, who told me this, and Mr Herman Coppinger the surgeon, went to the Danes at Trangambar, who kindly received them. There they lived very well ; and Mr Morgan was employed as a mate in a ship of theirs at this time to Achin ; and Captain Knox tells me, that he since com manded the Curtana, the ship that I went in to Tonquin, which Captain Welden having sold to the Mogul's subjects, they employed Mr Morgan as captain to trade in her for them ; and it is an usual thing for the trad ing Indians to hire Europeans to go officers on board their ships, especially captains and gunners. About two or three more of these that were set ashore went to Fort St George ; but the main body of them were for going into the Mogul's service. Our seamen are apt to have great notions of I know not what profit and advantages to be had in serving the Mogul ; nor do they want for fine stories to encourage one another to it. It was what these men had long been thinking and talk ing of as a fine thing ; but now they went upon it in good earnest. The place where they went ashore was at a town of the Moors ; which name our seamen give to all the subjects of the Great Mogul, but especially his Mahometan subjects ; calling the idolaters Gentoos or Rashbouts. At this Moors' town they got a peon to be their guide to the Mogul's nearest camp: for he has always several armies in his vast empire. These peons are some of the Gen toos or Rashbouts, who in all places along the coast, especially in seaport towns, make it their business to hire themselves to wait upon strangers, be they merchants, scamen, or what
271 FROM THE CYGNET. they will. To qualify them for such attendance, they learn the European languages, English, Dutch, French, Portuguese, &c. , according as they have any of the factories of these nations in their neighbourhood, or are visited by their ships. No sooner does any such ship come to an anchor and the men come ashore, but a great many of these peons are ready to proffer their service. It is usual for the strangers to hire their attendance during their stay there, giving them about a crown a month of our money, more or less. The richest sort of men will ordinarily hire two or three peons to wait upon them ; and even the common seamen, if able, will hire one a-piece to attend them, either for convenience or ostentation ; or sometimes one peon between two of them. These peons serve them in many capacities, as interpreters, brokers , servants to attend at meals, and go to market and on errands, & c. Nor do they give any trouble, eating at their own homes, and lodg ing there, when they have done their masters ' business for them ; expecting nothing but their wages, except that they have a certain allowance of about a "fanam," or threepence in a dollar, which is an eighteenth part profit, by way of brokerage for every bargain they drive they being generally employed in buying and selling. When the strangers go away, their peons desire them to give them their names in writing, with a certificate of their honest and diligent serving them : and these they show to the next comers, to get into business ; some being able to produce a large scroll of such certificates. But to proceed. The Moors' town where these men landed was not far from Cunnimere, a small English fac tory on the Coromandel Coast. The Governor whereof having intelligence by the Moors of the landing of these men, and their intended march to the Mogul's camp, sent out a captain cam He withe his company to oppose it. up with them and gave them hard words, but they being thirty or forty resolute fellows not easily daunted,
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ CHAP. XVIII. 72 he durst not attack them, but re with whom he was at war. During turned to the Governor ; and the news this interval, a small vessel from New of it was soon carried to Fort St York came hither to purchase slaves, George. During their march, John which trade is driven here, as it is Oliver, who was one of them, pri upon the Coast of Guinea, one nation vately told the peon who guided or clan selling others that are their them, that himself was their captain. enemies. Captain Reed, with about So when they came to the camp the five or six more, stole away from their peon told this to the General ; and crew and went aboard this New York when their stations and pay were as ship, and Captain Tait was made signed them, John Oliver had a commander of the residue. Soon greater respect paid him than the after which, a brigantine from the rest ; and whereas their pay was ten West Indies, Captain Knight com pagodas a month each man (a pagoda mander, coming thither with design is two dollars, or 9s. English), his pay to go to the Red Sea also, these of was twenty pagodas. Which strata the Cygnet consorted with them, and gem and usurpation of his, occasioned they went together to the Island him no small envy and indignation Johanna.¹ Thence going together to from his comrades. Soon after this, wards the Red Sea, the Cygnet proving two or three of them went to Agra to leaky, and sailing heavily, as being be of the Mogul's guard. Awhile after, much out of repair, Captain Knight the Governor of Fort St George sent grew weary of her company ; and a message to the main body of them, giving her the slip in the night, went and a pardon, to withdraw them from away for Achin ; for, having heard thence, which most of them accepted, that there was plenty of gold there, and came away. John Oliver and he went thither with a design to the small remainder continued in the cruise ; and it was from one Mr country, but leaving the camp, went Humes belonging to the Ann of Lon up and down plundering the villages, don, Captain Freke commander, who and fleeing when they were pursued ; had gone aboard Captain Knight, and and this was the last news I heard of whom I saw afterwards at Achin, that them. This account I had partly by I had this relation. Some of Captain Mr Morgan from some of those de Freke's men, their own ship being serters he met with at Trangambar, lost, had gone aboard the Cygnet at and partly from others of them whom Johanna ; and after Captain Knight I met with myself afterwards at Fort had left her, she still pursued her St George. And these were the ad voyage towards the Red Sea. But the ventures of those who went up into winds being against them, and the ship in so ill a condition, they were the country. Captain Reed having thus lost the forced to bear away for Coromandel, best half of his men sailed away with where Captain Tait and his own men the rest of them, after having filled went ashore to serve the Mogul. But his water and got rice, still intending the strangers of Captain Freke's ship, for the Red Sea. When they were who kept still aboard the Cygnet, un near Ceylon they met with a Portu dertook to carry her for England ; guese ship richly laden, out of which and the last news I heard of the they took what they pleased, and Cygnet was from Captain Knox, who then turned her away again. From tells me that she now lies sunk in thence they pursued their voyage, but St Augustine's Bay in Madagascar.2 the westerly winds bearing hard This digression I have made to give against them, and making it hardly an account of our ship. feasible for them to reach the Red Sea, The other passage IΙ shall speak of they stood away for Madagascar. 1 One of the Comoro group, between There they entered into the service of one ofthe petty princes of that island, Madagascar and Mozambique. to assist him against his neighbours, 2 On the south-west of the island.
273 ARRIVAL AT BENCOOLEN. 1690. ] that occurred during this interval of | Diamond, Captain Howel commander. the tour I made from Achin is with We were about fifty cr sixty passen relation to the Painted Prince whom gers in all ; some ordered to be left at I brought with me into England, and Indrapore, and some at Bencouli ; who died at Oxford. For while I was five or six of us were officers, the rest at Fort St George, about April 1690, soldiers to the Company. We met there arrived a ship called the Min- nothing in our voyage that deserves danao Merchant, laden with clove- notice till we came abreast of Indra bark from Mindanao. Three of Cap- pore ; then the wind came at NW. , tain Swan's men that remained there and blew so hard that we could not when we went from thence came in get in, but were forced to bear away her, from whom I had the account of to Bencouli, anotherEnglish factoryon Captain Swan's death, as is before the same coast, lying fifty or sixty related. There was also one Mr leagues to the southward of Indra Moody, who was supercargo of the pore. Upon our arrival at Bencouli we ship. This gentleman bought at Mindanao the Painted Prince Jeoly, ' saluted the fort, and were welcomed and his mother, and brought them to by them. The same day we came to Fort St George, where they were much an anchor, and Captain Howel and admired by all that saw them. Some Mr Moody, with the other merchants, time after this, Mr Moody, who spoke went ashore, and were all kindly the Malay language very well, and received by the Governor of the fort. was a person very capable to manage It was two days after before I went the Company's affairs, was ordered by ashore, and then I was importuned by the Governor of Fort St George to theGovernor to stay there to be gunner prepare to go to Indrapore, an English of this fort, because the gunner was factory on the west coast of Sumatra, lately dead ; and this being a place of in order to succeed Mr Gibbons, who greater import than Indrapore, I was chief of that place. By this time should do the Company more service I was very intimately acquainted with here than there. I told the Governor, Mr Moody, and was importuned by if he would augment my salary, which him to go with him, and to be gunner by agreement with the Governor of of the fort there. I always told him Fort St George I was to have had at I had a great desire to go to the Bay | Indrapore, I was willing to serve him, of Bengal, and that I had now an provided Mr Moody would consent to offer to go thither with Captain Met it. As to my salary, he told me I calf, who wanted a mate, and had should have twenty-four dollars per already spoken to me. Mr Moody, to month, which was as much as he gave encourage me to go with him, told to the old gunner. Mr Moody gave me that if I would go with him to no answer till a week after, and then, Indrapore he would buy a small ves being ready to be gone to Indrapore, sel there, and send me to the Island he told me I might use my own Meangis as commander of her ; and liberty, either to stay here or go with that I should carry Prince Jeoly and him to Indrapore. He added, that if his mother with me (that being their I went with him, he was not certain country), by which means I might as yet to perform his promise in get gain a commerce with his people for ting a vessel for me to go to Meangis cloves. This was a design that I with Jeoly and his mother ; but he liked very well, therefore I consented would be so fair to me, that because to go thither. It was some time in I left Madras on his account, he would July 1690 when we went from Fort give me the half share of the two St George in a small ship called the painted people, and leave them in my possession and at my disposal. I ac 1 Who was a slave at Mindanao cepted of the offer, and writings were during Dampier's stay there, See immediately drawn between us. Thus it was that I came to have Chapter XIII, S
274
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XVIII . this Painted Prince, whose name was | ing was done in the same manner as Jeoly, and his mother. They were the Jerusalem Cross is made in men's born on a small island called Meangis. arms, by pricking the skin and rub I saw the island twice, and two more bing in a pigment.2 But whereas close by it. Each of the three seemed powder is used in making the Jerusa to be about four or five leagues round, lem Cross, they at Meangis use the and of a good height. Jeoly himself gum of a tree beaten to powder, told me that they all three abounded called by the English drammer, which with gold, cloves, and nutmegs ; for is used instead of pitch in many parts I showed him some of each sort of India. He told me that most of several times, and he told me in the the men and women on the island Malay language, which he spake indif- were thus painted ; and also that they ferent well, " Meangis hadda madoc- had all earrings made of gold, and hala se bullawan ;" that is, " There gold shackles about their legs and is abundance of gold at Meangis. " arms ; that their common food, of " Bullawan " I have observed to the produce of the land, was potatoes be the common word for gold at and yams ; that they had plenty of Mindanao ; but whether the proper cocks and hens, but no other tame Malay word I know not ; for I found fowl. He said that fish (of which he much difference between the Malay was a great lover, as wild Indians language as it was spoken at Min- generally are) was very plentiful about danao, and the language on the coast the island ; and that they had canoes, of Malacca and Achin. When I and went a-fishing frequently in showed him spice, he would not only them ; and that they often visited tell me that there was madochala, the other two small islands, whose that is, abundance ; but, to make it inhabitants speak the same language appear more plain, he would also as they did ; which was so unlike the show me the hair of his head, a thing Malay, which he had learnt while he frequent among all the Indians that I was a slave at Mindanao, that when have met with , to show their hair his mother and he were talking to when they would express more than gether in their Meangian tongue I they can number. He told me also could not understand one word they that his father was Raja of the island said. And indeed all the Indians where they lived ; that there were who speak Malay, who are the trad not above thirty men on the island, ing and politer sort, looked on these and about one hundred women ; that Meangians as a kind of barbarians ; he himself had five wives and eight and, upon any occasion of dislike, children, and that one of his wives would call them "'bobby, " that is, painted him. He was painted all " hogs, " the greatest expression of down his breast ; between his should- contempt that can be, especially from ers behind ; on his thighs mostly the mouth of Malays, who are gene before ; and in the form of several rally Mahometans. And yet the broad rings, or bracelets, round his Malays everywhere call a woman arms and legs. I cannot liken the babby, by a name not much differ drawings to any figures of animals, ent ; and mamma signifies a man : or the like ; but they were very though these two last words properly curious, full of great variety of lines, denote male and female ; and 66 as flourishes, chequered work, &c. , keep- " ejam " signifies a fowl, so 66 ejam ing a very graceful proportion, and mamma 1S a cock, and ejam appearing very artificial, even to babby " is a hen. But this by the wonder, especially that upon and way. He said also, that the customs of between his shoulder blades. By the account he gave me of the manner of those other isles, and their manner of doing it, I understood that the paint living, was like theirs, and that they 1 Skilful, ingenious.
2 That is, by tattooing.
L
275 HISTORY OF THE " PAINTED PRINCE." 1690. ] were the only people with whom they before related, carried him to Fort St had any converse; and that one time, George, and thence along with me to as he, with his father, mother, and Bencouli . Mr Moody stayed at Ben brother, with two or three men more, couli about three weeks, and then were going to one of these other went back with Captain Howel to islands, they were driven by a strong Indrapore, leaving Jeoly and his wind on the coast of Mindanao, mother with me. They lived in a where they were taken by the fisher- house by themselves without the fort. men of that island, and carried ashore I had no employment for them, but and sold as slaves, they being first they both employed themselves. She stripped of their gold ornaments. I used to make and mend their own did not see any of the gold that they clothes, at which she was not very wore ; but there were great holes in expert, for they wear no clothes at their ears, by which it was manifest Meangis, but only a cloth about their that they had worn some ornaments waists ; and he busied himself in in them. Jeoly was sold to one making a chest with four boards and Michael, a Mindanayan, that spoke a few nails that he begged of me. It good Spanish, and commonly waited was but an ill-shaped, odd thing, yet on Raja Laut, serving him as our he was as proud of it as if it had been interpreter where the Raja was at a the rarest piece in the world . After loss in any word, for Michael under some time they were both taken sick, stood it better. He did often beat and though I took as much care of and abuse his painted servant, to them as if they had been my brother make him work, but all in vain ; for and sister, yet she died. I did what neither fair means, threats, nor blows I could to comfort Jeoly ; but he would make him work as he would took on extremely, insomuch that I have him. Yet he was very timorous, feared him also.1 Therefore I caused and could not endure to see any sort a grave to be made presently, to hide of weapons ; and he often told me her out of his sight. I had her that they had no arms at Meangis, shrouded decently in a piece of new they having no enemies to fight with. calico ; but Jeoly was not so satisfied, I knew this Michael very well while for he wrapped all her clothes about we were at Mindanao. I suppose that her, and two new pieces of chintz name was given him by the Spaniards, that Mr Moody gave her, saying that who baptized many of them at the they were his mother's, and she must time when they had footing at that have them. I would not disoblige island ; but, at the departure of the him, for fear of endangering his life ; Spaniards, they were Mahometans and I used all possible means to re again as before. Some of our people cover his health ; but I found little lay at this Michael's house, whose amendment while we stayed here. In wife and daughter were pagallies to the little printed relation that was some of them. I often saw Jeoly at made of him when he was shown for his master Michael's house ; and when a sight in England, there was a ro I came to have him so long after, hemantic story of a beautiful sister of remembered me again. I did never his, a slave with them at Mindanao, see his father nor brother, nor any of and of the Sultan's falling in love the others that were taken with them ; with her ; but these were stories in but Jeoly came several times aboard deed . They reported also that his our ship when we lay at Mindanao, paint was of such virtue, that ser and gladly accepted of such victuals pents and venomous creatures would as we gave him ; for his master kept flee from him ; for which reason, I suppose, they represented so many him at very short commons. Prince Jeoly lived thus a slave at serpents scampering about in the Mindanao four or five years, till at 1 That is, I feared for his life also, last Mr Moody bought him and his mother for sixty dollars, and, as is so profound was his grief.
276 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XIX. printed picture that was made of that I might have my discharge to him. But I never knew any paint go for England with the next ship of such virtue ; and as for Jeoly, I that came. The Council thought it have seen him as much afraid of reasonable, and they consented to it ; snakes, scorpions, or centipedes as he also gave me his word that I should myself. go. Upon the 2d of January 1691, Having given this account of the there came to an anchor in Bencouli ship_that left me at Nicobar, and of Road the Defence, Captain Heath my Painted Prince whom I brought commander, bound for England, in with me to Bencouli, I shall now the service of the Company. They proceed with the relation of my voyage had been at Indrapore, where Mr thence to England, after I have given Moody then was ; and he had made this short account of the occasion of over his share in Prince Jeoly to Mr it, and the manner of my getting Goddard, chief mate of the ship. away. To say nothing, therefore, Upon his coming on shore, he showed now of that place, and my employ me Mr Moody's writings, and looked ment there as gunner of the fort, the upon Jeoly, who had been sick for year 1690 drew towards an end ; and three months ; in all which time I not finding the Governor keep to his tended him as carefully as if he had agreement with me, nor seeing by his been my brother. I agreed matters carriage towards others any great with Mr Goddard, and sent Jeoly on reason I had to suspect he would, I board, intending to follow him as I began to wish myself away again. I could, and desiring Mr Goddard's as saw so much ignorance in him with sistance to fetch me off and conceal respect to his charge, being much me aboard the ship if there should be fitter to be a book-keeper than gover occasion ; which he promised to do, nor of a fort ; and yet so much in and the captain promised to entertain solence and cruelty with respect to me. For it proved, as I had foreseen, those under him, and rashness in his that upon Captain Heath's arrival, management of the Malay neighbour the Governor repented him of his hood, that I soon grew weary of him, promise, and would not suffer me to not thinking myself very safe, indeed, depart. I importuned him all I under a man whose humours were so could, but in vain ; so did Captain brutish and barbarous. I had other Heath also, but to no purpose. In motives also for my going away. I short, after several essays, I shipped began to long after my native country, away at midnight (understanding the after so tedious a ramble from it ; and ship was to sail the next morning, I proposed no small advantage to my and that they had taken leave of the self from my Painted Prince, whom | fort) ; and, creeping through one of Mr Moody had left entirely to my the portholes of the fort, I got to the disposal, only reserving to himself his shore, where the ship's boat waited right to one half share in him. For for me, and carried me on board. I besides what might be gained by brought with me my journal, and showing him in England, I was in most of my written papers ; but some hopes that when I had got some papers and books of value I left in money, I might there obtain what I haste and all my furniture, being glad had in vain sought for in the Indies I was myself at liberty, and had hopes -a ship from the merchants, where of seeing England again. with to carry him back to Meangis, and reinstate him there in his own country, and by his favour and ne CHAPTER XIX. gotiation to establish a traffic for the spice and other products of those islands. BEING thus got on board the Defence, Upon these projects, I went to the I was concealed there till a boat which Governor and Council, and desired came from the fort laden with pepper
277 1691. ] A SEA FIGHT BEFORE FORT ST GEORGE. was gone off again. And then we | anchor in the road, and to send their set sail for the Cape of Good Hope, goods and useless people ashore. January 25th, 1691, and made the There were then in the road a few best of our way, as wind and weather small English ships, and Captain would permit, expecting there to meet Heath, whose ship was a very stout three English ships more, bound home merchantman , and which the French from the Indies : for the war with the relater calls the English Admiral, was French having been proclaimed at just come from China, but very deep Fort St George a little before Captain laden with goods, and the deck full Heath came from thence, he was of canisters of sugar, which he was willing to have company home if he preparing to send ashore ; but before could. he could do it, the French appeared, A little before this war was pro coming into the road with their lower claimed, there was an engagement in sails and topsails , and had with them the road of Fort St George between a fireship. With this they thought some French men-of-war and some to have burnt the Dutch Commodore, Dutch and English ships at anchor and might probably enough have done in the road ; which, because there is it as she lay at anchor, if they had such a plausible story made of it in had the courage to come boldly on ; Monsieur Duquesne's late Voyage to but they fired their ship at a distance, the East Indies, I shall give a short and the Dutch sent and towed her account of, as I had it particularly away, where she spent herself without related to me by the gunner's mate any execution. Had the French men of Captain Heath's ship, a very sen of-war also come boldly up and sible man, and several others of his grappled with their enemies, they men who were in the action. The might have done something consider Dutch have a fort on the Coast of able ; for the fort could not have Coromandel, called Pullicat, about played on them without damaging twenty leagues to the northward of our ships as well as theirs. But in Fort St George. Upon some occasion stead of this, the French dropped or other the Dutch sent some ships anchor out of reach of the shot of thither to fetch away their effects, the fort, and there lay exchanging and transport them to Batavia. Acts shot with their enemies' ships, with of hostility were already begun be so little advantage to themselves, tween the French and Dutch ; and that after about four hours' fighting the French had at this time a squad they cut their cables and went away ron newly arrived in India, and lying in haste and disorder, with all their at Pondicherry, a French fort on the sails loose, even their topgallant sails, same coast southward of Fort St which is not usual but when ships George. The Dutch, in returning to are just next to running away. Cap Batavia, were obliged to coast it along tain Heath, notwithstanding his ship by Fort St George and Pondicherry was so heavy and encumbered, be for the sake of the wind ; but when haved himself very bravely in the they came near this last, they saw fight ; and upon the going off of the the French men-of-war lying at anchor French, went on board the Dutch there, and should they have proceeded Commodore , and told him that if he along the shore, or stood out to sea, would pursue them he would stand expected to be pursued by them. out with them to sea, though he had They therefore turned back again ; very little water aboard . But the for though their ships were of a pretty Dutch commander excused himself, good force, yet were they unfit for saying he had orders to defend him fight, as having great loads of goods, self from the French, but none to and many passengers, women, and chase them , or go out of his way to children on board : so they put in at seek them. And this was the exploit Fort St George, and, desiring the which the French have thought fit to Governor's protection, had leave to brag of. I hear that the Dutch have
278 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [CHAP. XIX. taken from them since their fort of ing when we came to take our allow ance, it was so hot that a man could Pondicherry. But to proceed with our voyage. hardly suffer his hands in it, or We had not been at sea long before hold a bottleful of it in his hand. I our men began to droop in a sort of never anywhere felt the like, nor a distemper that stole insensibly on could I have thought it possible that them, and proved fatal to above thirty, water should heat to that degree in a who died before we arrived at the ship's hold. It was exceeding black, Cape. We had sometimes two and too, and looked more like ink than once three men thrown overboard in water. Whether it grew so black with a morning. This distemper might standing, or was tinged with the pep probably arise from the badness of the per, I know not ; for this water was water which we took in at Bencouli, not so black when it was first taken for I did observe while I was there up. Our food also was very bad , for that the river water, wherewith our the ship had been out of England ships were watered, was very unwhole upon this voyage above three years ; some, it being mixed with the water and the salt provision brought from of many small creeks that proceeded thence, which we fed on, having been from low land, and whose streams so long in salt, was but ordinary food were always very black, they being for sickly men to feed on. Captain nourished by the water that drained Heath, when he saw the misery of his out of the low swampy unwholesome company, ordered his own tamarinds ofwhich he had some jars aboard ground. I have observed, not only there but in other hot countries also, to be given some to each mess to eat both in the East and West Indies, with their rice. This was a great that the land-floods which pour into refreshment to the men, and I do be the channels of the rivers about the lieve it contributed much to keep us season of the rains are very unwhole on our legs. This distemper was so some. This happens chiefly, as I take universal that I do believe there was it, where the water drains through scarce a man in the ship but lan thick woods and savannahs of long guished under it ; yet it stole so in grass and swampy grounds, with sensibly on us, that we could not say which some hot countries abound ; we were sick, feeling little or no pain, and I believe it receives a strong tinc only a weakness, and but little sto ture from the roots of several kind of mach. Nay, most of those that died trees, herbs, &c.; and especially where in this voyage would hardly be per there is any stagnancy of the water, suaded to keep their cabins or ham it soon corrupts ; and possibly the mocks till they could not stir about ; serpents and other poisonous vermin and when they were forced to lie and insects may not a little contri down, they made their wills, and bute to its bad qualities ; at such piked off¹ in two or three days. times it will look very deep coloured, The loss of these men, and the weak yellow, red, or black, &c. The season languishing condition that the rest of of the rains was over, and the land us were in, rendered us incapable to floods were abating upon the taking govern our ship when the wind blew up this water in the River of Bencouli ; more than ordinary. This often hap but would the seamen have given pened when we drew near the Cape, themselves the trouble, they might and as oft put us to our trumps to have filled their vessels with excellent 1 "Peaked off ; " graduallydwindled good water at a spring on the back side of the fort, not above 200 or 300 and died. The word is used in the paces from the landing-place, and witches' curse in Macbeth, Act 1 , s. 3 : with which the fort is served. Beside " Weary seven nights, nine times nine, the badness of our water, it was Shall he dwindle, peak, and pine." 2 Forced us to our utmost efforts ; stowed among the pepper in the hold, which made it very hot. Every morn drove us to our wits' end.
279 THE VOYAGE TO THE CAPE. 1691. ] manage the ship. Captain Heath, | thus far sounded the inclination of his to encourage his men to their labour, weak men, told them that it was not kept his watch as constantly as any enough that they all consented to man, though sickly himself, and lent beat for the Cape, for our desires were a helping hand on all occasions. But not sufficient to bring us thither, but at last, almost despairing of gaining that there would need a more than his passage to the Cape by reason of ordinary labour and management from the winds coming southerly, and we those that were able ; and withal, for having now been sailing eight or nine their encouragement, he promised a weeks, he called all our men to con- month's pay gratis to every man that sult about our safety, and desired would engage to assist on all occa every man, from the highest to the sions, and be ready upon call, whether lowest, freely to give his real opinion it were his turn to watch or not ; and and advice what to do in this danger- this money he promised to pay at the ous juncture ; for we were not in a Cape. This offer was first embraced condition to keep out long, and could by some of the officers, and then as we not get to land quickly, must have many of the men as found themselves perished at sea. He consulted, there- in a capacity listed themselves in a fore, whether it were best to beat still roll to serve their commander. This for the Cape or bear away for Johanna, was wisely contrived of the captain, where we might expect relief, that for he could not have compelled them being a place where our outward- in their weak condition, neither would bound East India ships usually touch, fair words alone, without some hopes and whose natives are very familiar ; of a reward, have engaged them to so but other places, especially St Law- much extraordinary work ; for the rence or Madagascar, ¹ which was ship, sail, and rigging were much out nearer, were unknown to us. We of repair. For my part, I was too were now so nigh the Cape that, with weak to enter myself in that list ; for a fair wind, we might expect to be else our common safety, which I there in four or five days ; but as the plainly saw lay at stake, would have wind was now, we could not hope to prompted me to do more than any get thither. On the other side, this such reward would do. In a short wind was fair to carry us to Johanna ; time after this it pleased God to but then Johanna was a great way favour us with a fine wind, which, off ; and if the wind should con- being improved to the best advantage tinue as it was, to bring us into a by the incessant labour of these new true trade-wind, yet we could not get listed men, brought us in a short time thither under a fortnight ; and if we to the Cape. should meet calms, as we might pro The night before we entered the har bably expect, it might be much longer. bour, which was about the beginning Besides, we should lose our passage of April, being near the land, we about the Cape till October or Novem fired a gun every hour to give notice ber, this being about the latter end of that we were in distress. The next March ; for after the 10th of May it day, a Dutch captain came aboard in is not usual to beat about the Cape to his boat ; who, seeing us so weak as come home. All circumstances there not to be able to trim our sails to fore being weighed and considered, turn into the harbour, though we we at last unanimously agreed to pro did tolerably well at sea before the secute our voyage towards the Cape, wind, and being requested by our and with patience wait for a shift of captain to assist him, sent ashore for wind. But Captain Heath, having a hundred lusty men, who immedi ately came aboard, and brought our 1 Which received the name of St ship into an anchor. Theyalso unbent Lawrence from its Portuguese dis our sails, and did everything for us coverer, Emanuel de Meneses, in that they were required to do, for 1506. which Captain Heath gratified them
235
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XIX. to the full. These men had better | the East Indies, when after coasting stomachs than we, and ate freely of along the vast continent of Africa, such food as the ship afforded ; and towards the South Pole, they had they having the freedom of our ship, the comfort of seeing the land and to go to and fro between decks, made their course end in this promontory, prize of what they could lay their which therefore they called the Cape hands on, especially salt beef, which de Bon Esperance, or of Good Hope, our men, for want of stomachs in the finding that they might now procced voyage, had hung up, six, eight, or eastward. 2 The most remarkable ten pieces in a place. This was con land at sea is a high mountain, steep veyed away before we knew it or to the sea, with a flat even top, which thought of it ; besides, in the night, is called the Table Land. On the there was a bale of muslins broken west side of the Cape, a little to the open, and a great deal conveyed northward of it, there is a spacious away ; but whether the muslins were harbour, with a low flat island lying stolen by our own men or the Dutch off it, which you may leave on either I cannot say, for we had some very hand, and pass in or out securely at dexterous thieves in our ship. Being either end . Ships that anchor here thus got safe to an anchor, the sick ride near the mainland, leaving the were presently sent ashore, to quar island at a farther distance without ters provided for them, and those them. The land by the sea against that were able remained aboard and the harbour is low, but backed with had good fat mutton or fresh beefsent high mountains a little way in, to aboard every day. I went ashore, the southward of it. The soil of this country is of a also, with my Painted Prince, where I remained with him till the time of brown colour ; not deep, yet indiffer sailing again, which was about six ently productive of grass, herbs, and weeks, in which time I took the trees. The grass is short, like that opportunity to inform myself of what which grows on our Wiltshire or I could concerning this country, Dorsetshire Downs. The trees here which I shall in this next place give abouts are but small and few ; the a brief account of, and so make what country also farther from the sea does haste I can home. not much abound in trees, as I have The Cape of Good Hope is the been informed. The mould or soil utmost bounds of the continent of also is much like this near the har Africa towards the south, lying in bour, which though it cannot be said Lat. 34° 30′ S., in a very temperate to be very fat or rich land, yet it is climate. I look upon this Latitude very fit for cultivation, and yields to be one of the mildest and sweetest, good crops to the industrious hus for its temperature, of any whatso bandman ; and the country is pretty ever. 1 well settled with farms, Dutch This large promontory consists of families and French refugees, for high and very remarkable land ; and twenty or thirty leagues up in the off at sea it affords a very pleas country ; but there are but few farms ant and agreeable prospect. And near the harbour. Here grows plenty without doubt the prospect of it was of wheat, barley, pease, &c. Here very agreeable to those Portuguese are also fruits of many kinds, as who first found out this way by sea to apples, pears, quinces, and the largest pomegranates that I did ever A digression is here omitted, in see. The chief fruits are grapes. Dampier combats and explains These thrive very well, and the which રી 66 common prejudice " among Euro pean seamen, who look upon the 2 A passage relating to soundings Cape as much colder than other and signs of nearing the Cape is places in the same Latitude to the omitted. north of the Line. 3 Table Bay.
1691. ]
SOIL, FRUITS, AND ANIMALS AT THE CAPE.
country is of late years so well stocked with vineyards, that they nake abundance of wine, of which they have enough and to spare, and do sell great quantities to ships that touch here. This wine is like a French high country white-wine, but of a pale yellowish colour ; it is sweet, very pleasant, and strong. The tame animals of this country are sheep, goats, hogs, cows, horses, & c. The sheep are very large and fat, for they thrive very well here. There is a very beautiful sort of wild ass in this country, whose body is curiously striped with equal lists of white and black ; the stripes coming from the ridge of his back, and ending under the belly, which is white. Here are a great many ducks, dunghill fowls, &c.; and ostriches are plentifully found in the dry mountains and plains. The sea hereabouts affords plenty of fish of divers sorts ; especially a small sort of fish, not so big as a herring, where of they have such great plenty, that they pickle great quantities yearly, and send them to Europe. Seals are also in great numbers about the Cape, which, as I have still observed, is a good sign of the plentifulness of fish, which is their food. The Dutch have a strong fort by the seaside, against the harbour, where the Governor lives. At about 200 or 300 paces distance from thence, on the west side of the fort, there is a small Dutch town, in which I told about fifty or sixty houses, low, but well built, with stone walls, there being plenty of stone drawn out of a quarry close by. On the back side of the town, as you go towards the mountains, the Dutch East India Company have a large house, and a stately garden walled in with a high stone wall. This garden is full of divers sorts of herbs, flowers, roots, and fruits, with curious spacious gravel walks and arbours ; and is watered with a brook that descends out of the mountains, which being cut into many channels is conveyed
¹ Rings, streaks,
281
into all parts of the garden. The hedges which make the walks are very thick, and nine or ten feet high. They are kept exceeding neat and even by continual pruning. There are lower hedges within these again, which serve to separate the fruit trees from each other, but with out shading them ; and they keep each sort of fruit by themselves, as apples, pears, abundance of quinces, pomegranates, &c. These all prosper very well, and bear good fruit, espe cially the pomegranate. The roots and garden herbs have also their dis tinct places, hedged in apart by them selves ; and all in such order, that it is exceeding pleasant and beautiful. There are a great number of Negro slaves brought from other parts of the world ; some of which are con tinually weeding, pruning, trimming, and looking after it. All strangers are allowed the liberty to walk there ; and, by the servant's leave, you may be admitted to taste ofthe fruit ; but if you think to do it clandestinely you may be mistaken, as I knew one was when I was in the garden, who took five or six pomegranates, and was espied by one of the slaves, and threatened to be carried before the Governor. I believe it cost him some money to make his peace, for I heard no more of it. Farther up from the sea, beyond the garden, towards the mountains, there are several other small gardens and vineyards, belong ing to private men ; but the moun tains are so nigh, that the number of them is but small. The Dutch that live in the town get considerably by the ships that frequently touch here, chiefly by en tertaining strangers that come ashore to refresh themselves : for you must give three shillings or a dollar a day for your entertainment ; the bread and flesh is as cheap here as in Eng land. Besides, they buy good penny worths of the seamen, both outward and homeward bound, which the far mers up the country buy of them again at a dear rate ; for they have not an opportunity of buying things at the best hand, but must buy of
282
DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [ CHAP. XX. those that live at the harbour ; the complexion is darker than the com nearest settlements, as I was informed, mon Indians, though not so black being twenty miles off. Notwith as the Negroes or New Hollanders ; standing the great plenty of corn and neither is their hair so much frizzled. wine, yet the extraordinary high taxes They besmear themselves all over which the Company lays on liquor with grease, as well to keep their make it very dear, and you can buy joints supple, as to fence their half none but at the tavern, except it be naked bodies from the air by stopping by stealth. There are but three up their pores. To do this the more houses in the town that sell strong effectually, they rub soot over the liquor, one of which is this wine greased parts, especially their faces, house or tavern ; there they sell only which adds to their natural beauty wine ; another sells beer and mum¹ ; as painting does in Europe ; but and the third sells brandy and to withal sends from them a strong bacco, all extraordinary dear. A flask smell, which, though sufficiently of wine which holds three quarts will pleasing to themselves, is very un cost eighteen stivers, 2 for so much I pleasant to others. They are glad of paid for it ; yet I bought as much for the worst of kitchen stuff for this eight stivers in another place, but it purpose, and use it as often as they was privately, at an unlicensed house ; can get it. This custom of anointing and the person that sold it would the body is very common in other have been ruined had it been known. parts of Africa, especially on the coast And thus much for the country and of Guinea, where they generally use the European inhabitants. palm oil, anointing themselves from head to foot ; but when they want oil they make use of kitchen stuff, which they buy of the Europeans that trade with them. In the East Indies also, CHAPTER XX. especially on the coast of Cudda and THE natural inhabitants of the Cape Malacca, and in general on almost all are the Hodmadods, as they are com the easterly islands, as well on Suma monly called, which is a corruption tra, Java, &c,, as on the Philippine of the word Hottentot ; for this is the and Spice Islands, the Indian inhabi name by which they call to one an tants anoint themselves with cocoa other, either in their dances, or on nut oil two or three times a day, any occasion, as if every one of them especially mornings and evenings. had this for his name. The word They spend sometimes half-an-hour probably has some signification or in chafing the oil, and rubbing it into other in their language, whatever it their hair and skin, leaving no place is. The Hottentots are people of a unsmeared with oil but their face, middle stature, with small limbs and which they daub not like these Hot thin bodies, full of activity. Their tentots. The Americans also in faces are of a flat, oval figure, of the some places do use this custom, but Negro make, with great eyebrows, not so frequently, perhaps for want black eyes ; but neither are their of oil and grease to do it. Yet some noses so flat, nor their lips so thick, American Indians in the North Seas as the Negroes of Guinea. Their frequently daub themselves with a pigment made with leaves, roots, or 1 A kind of strong beer, introduced herbs, or with a sort of red earth, into England from Brunswick in Ger giving their skins a yellow, red, or green colour, according as the pig many. 2 According to Bailey's Dictionary, ment is. And these smell unsavourly a stiver was, about the beginning of enough to people not accustomed to the eighteenth century, equivalent to them ; though not so rank as those who use oil or grease. a penny and one-fifth English. The Hottentots wear no covering 3 Native, aboriginal .
1691. ] DRESS AND SOCIAL CUSTOMS OF THE HOTTENTOTS . 283 on their heads, but deck their hair are in a manner round, made with with small shells. Their garments small poles stuck into the ground, are sheepskins wrapped about their and brought together at the top, shoulders like a mantle, with the where they are fastened. The sides woolly sides next their bodies. The and top of the house are filled up men have, besides this mantle, a with boughs coarsely wattled between piece of skin like a small apron hang the poles, and all is covered over with ing before them. The women have longgrass, rushes, and pieces of hides ; another skin tucked about their waists and the house at a distance appears which comes down to their knees just like a haycock. They leave only like a petticoat and their legs are a small hole on one side, about three wrapped round with sheepguts, two or or four feet high, for a door to creep three inches thick, some up as high in and out at ; but when the wind as to their calves, others even from comes in at this door they stop it up, their feet to their knees ; which at a and make another hole in the opposite small distance seems to be a sort of side. They make the fire in the boots. These are put on when they middle of the house, and the smoke are green ; and so they grow hard ascends out of the crannies, from all and stiff on their legs, for they never parts of the house. They have no pull them off again, till they have beds to lie on, but tumble down at occasion to eat them ; which is when night round the fire. Their house they journey from home, and have hold furniture is commonly an earthen no other food : then these guts, pot or two to boil victuals, and they which have been worn, it may be, six, live very miserably and hard ; it is eight, ten, or twelve months, make reported that they will fast two or them a good banquet. This I was three days together when they travel informed of by the Dutch. They about the country. Their common never pull off their sheepskin gar food is either herbs, flesh, or shell ments but to louse themselves ; for fish, which they get among the rocks, by continual wearing them they are or other places at low water : for they full of vermin, which obliges them have no boats, bark-logs, nor canoes often to strip and sit in the sun two to go a-fishing in ; so that their chief or three hours together in the heat of subsistence is on land animals, or on the day, to destroy them. Indeed, such herbs as the land naturally pro most Indians that live remote from duces. I was told by my Dutch land the Equator are molested with lice, lord that they kept sheep and bullocks though their garments afford less here before the Dutch settled among shelter for lice than these Hottentots' them : and that the inland Hottentots sheepskins do. For all those Indians have still great stocks of cattle, and who live in cold countries, as in the sell them to the Dutch for rolls of north and south parts of America, tobacco ; and that the price for which have some sort of skin or other to they sell a cow or sheep, was as cover their bodies, as deer, otter, much twisted tobacco as will reach beaver, or seal skins, all which they from the horns or head to the tail ; as constantly wear, without shifting for they are great lovers of tobacco, themselves, as these Hottentots do and will do anything for it. This their sheepskins . And, hence they their way of trucking I was confirmed are lousy too, and strong scented, to me by many others, who yet said though they do not daub themselves that they could not buy their beef at all, or but very little ; for even this cheap way, for they had not the by reason of their skins they smell liberty to deal with the Hottentots, that being a privilege which the strong. The Hottentots ' houses are the Dutch East India Company reserve to meanest that I did ever see. They themselves. My landlord, having a are about nine or ten feet high, and 1 Bartering, exchanging. ten or twelve from side to side. They
284 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XX. great many lodgers, fed us most with to my lodging, which was not above mutton, some of which he bought of 200 or 300 paces from their huts ; and the butcher, and there is but one in I heard them singing in the same the town ; but most of it he killed in manner all night. In the grey of the the night, the sheep being brought morning I walked out again, and privately by the Hottentots, who found many of the men and women assisted in skinning and dressing, still singing and dancing, who con and had the skin and guts for their tinued their mirth till the moon went pains. I judge these sheep were down, and then they left off ; some fetched out of the country a good of them going into their huts to sleep, way off ; for he himself would be ab and others to their attendance in their sent a day or two to procure them, Dutch houses. Other Negroes are and two or three Hottentots with him. less circumspect, in theirnight-dances, These of the Hottentots that live by as to the precise time of the full moon, the Dutch town have their greatest they being more general in these subsistence from the Dutch : for there nocturnal pastimes, and use them is one or more of them belonging to oftener ; as do many people also in the every house. These do all sorts of East and West Indies. Yet there is servile work, and there take their a difference between colder and warmer food and grease. Three or four more countries as to their divertisements.¹ of their nearest relations sit at the The warmer climates being generally doors or near the Dutch house, wait very productive of delicate fruits, &c. , ing for the scraps and fragments that and these uncivilised people caring come from the table ; and if between for little else than what is barely meals the Dutch people have any necessary, they spend the greatest occasion for them to go on errands or part of their time in diverting them the like, they are ready at command, selves after their several fashions ; expecting little for their pains ; but but the Indians of colder climates are for a stranger they will not budge not so much at leisure, the fruits of under a stiver. the earth being scarce with them, Their religion, if they have any, is and they necessitated to be continu wholly unknown to me ; for they have ally fishing, hunting, or fowling for no temple nor idol, nor any place of their subsistence ; not as with us, worship that I did see or hear of. Yet for recreation. As for these Hotten their mirth and nocturnal pastimes tots, they are a very lazy sort of peo at the new and full of the moon look ple ; and though they live in a delicate ed as if they had some superstition country, very fit to be manured, and about it. For at the full especially where there is land enough for them, they sing and dance all night, making yet they choose rather to live as their a great noise. I walked out to their forefathers, poor and miserable, than huts twice at these times, in the even be at pains for plenty. And so much ing, when the moon arose above the for the Hottentots : I shall now return horizon, and viewed them for an hour to our own affairs. or more. They seem all very busy, Upon our arrival at the Cape, Cap both men, women, and children, tain Heath took a house to live in, dancing very oddly on the green grass in order to recover his health. Such by their houses. They traced to and of his men as were able did so too : fro promiscuously, often clapping for the rest he provided lodgings and their hands and singing aloud. Their paid their expenses. Three or four of faces were sometimes to the east, some our men, who came ashore very sick, times to the west ; neither did I see died ; but the rest, by the assistance any motion or gesture that they used of the doctors of the fort, a fine air, when their faces were towards the and good kitchen and cellar physic, moon, more than when their backs soon recovered their health. Those were towards it. After I had thus observed them for a while, I returned 1 Sports, diversions.
285 DEPARTURE FROM THE CAPE. 1691. ] that subscribed to be at all calls, and taking us on the broadside, made us assisted to bring in the ship, received roll sufficiently. Such of our water Captain Heath's bounty, by which casks as were between decks, running they furnished themselves with liquor from side to side, were in a short time for their homeward voyage. But we all staved, and the deck well washed The shot were now so few, that we could not with the fresh water. sail the ship ; therefore Captain Heath tumbled out of the lockers and gar desired the Governor to spare him lands, and rung a loud peal, rumbling some men ; and, as I was informed, from side to side every roll that the had a promise to be supplied out of ship made ; neither was it an easy the homeward-bound Dutch East In matter to reduce them again within dia ships, that were now expected bounds. The guns being carefully every day ; and we waited for them. looked after and lashed fast, never In the meantime, in came the James budged, but the tackles or pulleys and Mary, and the Josiah of London, and lashings made great music too. bound home. Out of these we thought The sudden and violent motion of the to have been furnished with men, but ship made us fearful lest some of the they had only enough for themselves ; guns should have broken loose, which therefore we waited yet longer for the must have been very detrimental to Dutch Fleet, which at last arrived : the ship's sides. The masts were also but we could get no men from them. in great danger to be rolled by the Captain Heath was therefore forced board ; but no harm happened to any to get men by stealth, such as he of us besides the loss of three or four could pick up, whether soldiers or butts of water, and a barrel or two of seamen. The Dutch knew our want good Cape wine, which was staved in of men ; therefore near forty of them, the great cabin. This great tumbling those that had a design to return to sea took us shortly after we came Europe, came privately and offered from the Cape. The violence of it themselves, and waited in the night lasted but one night ; yet we had a at places appointed, where our boats continual swelling out of the SW. went and fetched three or four aboard almost during all the passage to Santa at a time, and hid them, especially Helena, which was an eminent token when any Dutch boat came aboard that the SW. winds were now violent our ship. Here at the Cape I met my in the higher latitudes towards the friend Daniel Wallis, the same who South Pole ; for this was the time leaped into the sea and swam at Pulo of year for those winds. Notwith Condore.¹ After several traverses standing this boisterous sea coming to Madagascar, Don Mascarin,2 Pon thus obliquely upon us, we had fine dicherry, Pegu, Cunnimere, Madras, clear weather, and a moderate gale at and the River Hooghly, he was now SE. , or between that and the east, gothither ina homeward-bound Dutch till we came to the Island Santa ship. I soon persuaded him to come Helena, where we arrived the 20th of over to us, and found means to get June. There we found the Princess him aboard our ship. Ann at anchor waiting for us. The Island Santa Helena lies in About the 23d of May we sailed from the Cape in the company of the about 16° S. Lat. The air is com James and Mary and the Josiah, monly serene and clear, except in the directing our course towards the Island months that yield rain ; yet we had Santa Helena. We met nothing of one or two very rainy days even while remark in this voyage except a great we were here. Here are moist seasons swelling sea out of the SW. , which, to plant and sow; and the weather is temperate enough as to heat, though 1 Escaping from a murderous Ma so near the Equator, and very healthy. layan crew. See end of Chapter XIV. , The island is but small, not above nine or ten leagues in length, and page 231. stands 300 or 400 leagues from the 2 The Isle of France.
286 DAMPIER'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [CHAP. XX, main land. It is bounded against since in the hands of the English the sea with steep rocks, so that East India Company, and has been there is no landing but at two or greatly strengthened both with men three places. The land is high and and guns ; so that at this day it is mountainous, and seems to be very secure enough from the invasion of dry and poor, yet there are fine val any enemy. For the common land The ing-place is a small bay, like a half leys proper for cultivation. mountains appear bare, only in some moon, scarce 500 paces wide, between places you may see a few low shrubs ; the two points. Close by the seaside but the valleys afford some trees fit are good guns planted at equal dis for building, as I was informed. tances, lying along from one end of This island is said to have been the bay to the other ; besides a small first discovered and settled by the fort, a little farther in from the sea, Portuguese, 1 who stocked it with near the midst of the bay : all which goats and hogs ; but it being after makes this bay so strong, that it is wards deserted by them, it lay waste impossible to force it. The small till the Dutch, finding it convenient cove where Captain Monday landed to relieve their East India ships, his men when he took the island from settled it again ; but they afterwards the Dutch, is scarce fit for a boat to relinquished it for a more convenient land at, and yet that is now also place, I mean the Cape of Good Hope. fortified. There is a small English town Then the English East India Com pany settled their servants there, and within the great bay, standing in a began to fortify it ; but they being little valley between two high steep yet weak, the Dutch about the year mountains. There may be about 1672 came thither and retook it, and twenty or thirty small houses, whose This walls are built with rough stones ; kept it in their possession. news being reported in England, the inside furniture is very mean. Captain Monday was sent to retake The Governor has a pretty tolerably it, who, by the advice and conduct of handsome low house by the fort, one that had formerly lived there, where he commonly lives, having a landed a party of armed men in the few soldiers to attend him, and to night in a small cove, unknown to guard the fort. But the houses in the Dutch then in garrison, and the town before mentioned stand climbing the rocks, got up into the empty, save only when ships arrive island, and so came in the morning here ; for their owners have all plan to the hills hanging over the fort tations farther in the island, where which stands by the sea in a small they constantly employ themselves. valley. Thence firing into the fort, But when ships arrive, they all flock they soon made them surrender. to the town, where they live all the There were at this time two or three time that the ships lie here ; for then Dutch East India ships either at is their fair or market, to buy such anchor, or coming thither, when our necessaries as they want, and to sell ships were there. These, when they off the produce of their plantations. saw that the English were masters of Their plantations afford potatoes, the island again, made sail to be yams, and some plantains and ban gone; but being chased by the Eng- anas. Their stock consists chiefly of lish frigates, two of them became rich hogs, bullocks, cocks and hens, ducks, prizes to Captain Monday and his geese, and turkeys, of which they men. The island has continued ever have great plenty, and sell them at a low rate to the sailors ; taking in 1 By Juan de Nova, in 1501, who exchange shirts, drawers, or any light gave such a favourable account of the clothes, pieces of calico, silks, or island, that the Portuguese Admirals muslins. Arrack, sugar, and lime were instructed in future to touch juice are also much esteemed and there for refreshments . coveted by them. But now they are
ST HELENA. 287 1891. ] in hopes to produce wine and brandy them if once they get footing here : in a short time ; for they already for the island affords abundance of begin to plant vines for that end, delicate herbs, wherewith the sick there being a few Frenchmen there are first bathed to supple their joints, to manage that affair. This I was and then the fruits and herbs and told, but I saw nothing of it, for it fresh food soon after cure them of rained so hard when I was ashore, their scorbutic humours ; so that in that I had not the opportunity of a week's time men that have been seeing their plantations. I was also carried ashore in hammocks, and they informed that they get manatee or who were wholly unable to go, have sea-cows here, which seemed very been able to leap and dance. Doubt strange to me. Therefore inquiring less the serenity and wholesomeness more strictly into the matter, I found of the air contributes much to the the Santa Helena manatee to be, by carrying off of these distempers, for their shapes and manner of lying there is constantly a fresh breeze. ashore on the rocks, those creatures While we stayed here, many of the called sea-lions ; for the manatee seamen got sweethearts. One young never come ashore, neither are they man belonging to the James and found near any rocky shores as this Mary was married, and brought his island is, there being no feeding for wife to England with him. Another them in such places. Besides, in this brought his sweetheart to England, island there is no river for them to they being each engaged by bonds to drink at, though there is a small marry at their arrival in England ; brook runs into the sea out of the and several others of our men were over head and ears in love with the valley by the fort. We stayed here five or six days, all Santa Helena maids, who, though which time the islanders lived at the they were born there, yet very ear town, to entertain the seamen, who nestly desired to be released from constantly flocked ashore to enjoy that prison, which they have no other themselves among their country way to compass but by marrying sea people. Our touching at the Cape men or passengers that touch here. had greatly drained the seamen of The young women born here are but their loose coins, at which these one remove from English, being the islanders as greatly repined ; and some daughters of such. They are well of the poorer sort openly complained shaped, proper, and comely, were against such doings, saying it was fit they in a dress to set them off. that the East India Company should My stay ashore here was but two be acquainted with it, that they days, to get refreshments for myself might hindertheir shipsfrom touching and Jeoly, whom I carried ashore at the Cape. Yet they were extremely with me ; and he was very diligent kind, in hopes to get what was re to pick up such things as the island maining. They are most of them afforded, carrying ashore with him a very poor ; but such as could get a bag, which the people of the isle They little liquor to sell to the seamen at filled with roots for him. this time got what the seamen could flocked about him, and seemed to spare, for the punch- houses were never admire him much. This was the empty. But had we all come directly last place where I had him at my hither, and not touched at the Cape, own disposal ; for the mate of the even the poorest people among them ship, who had Mr Moody's share in would have gotten something by en him, left him entirely to my manage tertaining sick men. For commonly ment, I being to bring him to Eng the seamen coming home are troubled land. But I was no sooner arrived more or less with scorbutic distempers, | in the Thames, but he was sent ashore and their only hopes are to get re to be seen by some eminent persons ; freshment and health at this island ; and I, being in want of money, was and these hopes seldom or never fail prevailed upon to sell first part of
288 DAMPIER'S YOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [ CHAP . XX. my share in him, and by degrees all | sight of land, we got together again, of it. After this I heard that he was all but the James and Mary. She carried about to be shown as a sight, got into the Channel before us, and and that he died of the small-pox at went to Plymouth, and there gave an Oxford. account of the rest of us ; whereupon But to proceed. Our water being our men-of-war who lay there came filled, and the ships all stocked with out tojoin us, and meeting us, brought fresh provision, we sailed hence in us off Plymouth. There our consort company of the Princess Ann, the the James and Mary came to us again ; James and Mary, and the Josiah, and thence we all sailed in company July the 2d, 1691, directing our of several men-of-war towards Ports course towards England, and design mouth. There our first convoy left ing to touch nowhere by the way. us, and went in thither. But we did In our passage before we got not want convoys, for our fleets were to the Line, we saw three ships, and then repairing to their winter har making towards them, we found two bours to be laid up ; so that we had of them to be Portuguese, bound to the company of several English ships Brazil. The third kept on a wind, to the Downs, and a squadron also of so that we could not speak with her ; Dutch sailed up the Channel, but but we found by the Portuguese it kept off farther from our English was an English ship, called the coast, they being bound home to Dorothy, Captain Thwayt command Holland. When we came as high as er, bound to the East Indies. After the South Foreland, we left them this we kept company still with our standing on their course, keeping on three consorts till we came near Eng the back of the Goodwin Sands ; and land, and then were separated by bad we luffed in for the Downs, where we weather ; but before we came within anchored September the 16th, 1691 .
END OF DAMPIER'S VOYAGE.
HO
AN OLD SALT'S YARN.-ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. (Frontispiece.)
A
VOYAGE
ROUND THE
WORLD
IN THE YEARS 1740-44
EY
GEORGE
ANSON
EDITED, FROM THE ORIGINAL NARRATIVE, WITH Notes, by
D.
LAING
WILLIAM
P.
PURVES
NIMMO
EDINBURGH. 1880.
&
CO .,
CONTENTS.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH, • DEDICATION, INTRODUCTION,
·
PAGE 5 7
BOOK I. CHAPTER I. Of the equipment of the squadron ; the incidents relating thereto from its first appointment to its setting sail from St Helens, CHAPTER II. The passage from St Helens to the Island of Madeira, with a short account of • • that island, and of our stay there, • CHAPTER III. The history of the squadron commanded by Don Joseph Pizarro, CHAPTER IV. From Madeira to St Catherine's,. CHAPTER V. Proceedings at St Catherine's, and a description of the place, with a short account of Brazil, CHAPTER VI. The run from St Catherine's to Port St Julian, with some account of that port, and of the country to the southward of the River of Plate, • CHAPTER VII. Departure from the Bay of St Julian, and the passage from thence to Straits Le Maire, CHAPTER VIII. From Straits Le Maire to Cape Noir, • CHAPTER IX. Observations and directions for facilitating the passage of our future cruisers • round Cape Horn, CHAPTER X. From Cape Noir to the Island of Juan Fernandez,
10
17
21 26
29
31
35
38
42
42
BOOK II. CHAPTER I. The arrival of the Centurion at the Island of Juan Fernandez, with a descrip. 48 tion of that island, CHAPTER II. The arrival of the Gloucester and the Anna pink at the Island of Juan Fer 53 nandez, CHAPTER III. A short narrative of what befell the Anna pink before she joined us, with an 57 account of the loss of the Wager,
4
CONTENTS.
222
PAGE CHAPTER IV. Conclusion of our proceedings at Juan Fernandez, from the arrival of the 66 Anna pink to our final departure from thence, CHAPTER V. Our cruise from the time of our leaving Juan Fernandez to the taking the • town of Paita, • 72 CHAPTER VI. • 80 The taking of Paita, and our proceedings till we left the coast of Peru, CHAPTER VII. 90 From our departure from Paita to our arrival at Quibo, CHAPTER VIII. • · • 94 Our proceedings at Quibo, CHAPTER IX. • 95 From Quibo to the coast of Mexico, " CHAPTER X. An account of the commerce carried on between the city of Manilla on the • 99 Island of Luconia and the port of Acapulco on the coast of Mexico, CHAPTER XI. • 105 Our cruise off the port of Acapulco for the Manilla ship, CHAPTER XII. Description of the harbour of Chequetan and of the adjacent coast and country, 107 CHAPTER XIII. Our proceedings at Chequetan and on the adjacent coast till our setting sail for Asia, 103 •
8
BOOK III. CHAPTER I. • 114 The run from the coast of Mexico to the Ladrones or Marian Islands, . CHAPTER II. Our arrival at Tinian, and an account of the island and of our proceedings 119 there till the Centurion drove out to sea, · CHAPTER III. •, 124 Transactions at Tinian after the departure of the Centurion, CHAPTER IV. . 127 Proceedings on board the Centurion when driven out to sea, • CHAPTER V. Employment at Tinian till the final departure of the Centurion from thence, 129 with a description of the Ladrones,. CHAPTER VI. From Tinian to Macao, 131 • CHAPTER VII. • 134 Proceedings at Macao, CHAPTER VIII. From Macao to Cape Espiritu Santo ; the taking of the Manilla galleon, and • 141 · returning back again, CHAPTER IX. . 149 Transactions in the River of Canton, CHAPTER X. Proceedings at the city of Canton, and the return of the Centurion to England, 155
BIOGRAPHICAL
SKETCH.
GEORGE ANSON, Lord Anson, Baron Soberton, was the second son of William Anson, Esq., of Shugborough, in Staffordshire. His great-grandfather, who was an eminent barrister in the reign of James I., had purchased and founded the family mansion where he was born, 23d April 1697. Little is positively known about his early history and nautical training, save that his name was first found entered as a volunteer in the books of the Ruby, under date January 1712. His services being transferred from the Ruby to the Hampshire ship of war, he then received his acting orders as second lieutenant, on the 9th May 1716. From this date, up till 1724, his progress was as follows : Promoted to the command of the Weasel sloop in 1718, raised to the rank of post-captain in 1724, with the command of the Scarborough man-of-war. The Scarborough was at this time ordered to defend the coast of South Carolina against pirates, and to prevent illicit commerce with the Bahamas. His popularity among the settlers of South Carolina must have been considerable, as we find that his name was attached to several towns and districts, such as Anson's County, Anson's Ville, Anson's Mines, etc. He returned to England in 1730, was cruising again on the American coast in 1733, but returned again in 1735. On the 9th December 1737, Captain Anson was appointed to the command of the Centurion, a ship of 60 guns, and despatched to the African coast, ostensibly with a view to the protection of our merchants engaged in the gum trade, from the annoyance of French ships of war. A resolution having been come to by the ministry to strike a blow against the Spanish power in the West Indies, South Seas, and at Manilla, two officers were selected for this purpose- Captain Anson and Captain James Cornwall. On Anson's arrival at Spithead, 10th November 1739 , he found a letter awaiting him from Admiral Sir Charles Wager, ordering him to proceed at once to the Admiralty. The first programme submitted to him, to say the least of it, was both difficult and dangerous, and may be taken as a proof of the confidence enter tained in his ability as a seaman. He was to attack and carry
6
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH .
Manilla with part of his squadron, while another part, under Cornwall, was to go round Cape Horn into the Southern Ocean, attacking and destroying the Spanish settlements on the South American coasts, then crossing the Pacific to join the previous squadron at Manilla, and there await further orders. This scheme was never fully carried out, the proposed expedition to Manilla being dropped ; but the part of the plan which was to have been entrusted to Cornwall was eventually carried out by Anson. On the 10th January 1740, Anson was appointed commodore of the squadron which was designed to share in the riches which they imagined Spain derived from her possessions in the South Seas. Before sailing, he made himself acquainted with the best printed and manuscript accounts of the Spanish settlements on the coasts of Chili, Peru, and Mexico. The victualling and manning of this squadron was a notorious example of avaricious and heart less jobbery. In addition to the fact that several of the vessels were scarcely seaworthy and badly manned, the troops sent on board were worn-out pensioners from Chelsea, not one of whom returned alive. It is a record of this voyage round the world which is here presented . On the 3d May 1747, Anson achieved a brilliant victory over a French fleet bound for the Indies, off Cape Finisterre. In recog nition of this service, he was created a peer under the title of Lord Anson, Baron of Soberton, in the county of Southampton, and shortly afterwards made Vice-Admiral of England . In 1751 he was appointed First Lord of the Admiralty, a position he held, except for a short interval, until his death. On 30th July 1761 , he sailed from Harwich in the Charlotte yacht, to convey the future queen of George III. to England. In the month of Febru ary 1762, in assisting at the ceremony of accompanying the queen's brother, Prince George of Mecklenberg, to Portsmouth, he caught a cold which proved fatal on 6th June 1762. In April 1748, Lord Anson had married Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Lord Hardwicke, who died without issue, 1st June 1760. In business Anson was slow to decide, but quick to execute. In matters of ceremony and correspondence he was awkward, and in writing showed marks of a defective education. This was more than compensated by other sterling qualities of mind and character. In society he was modest and reserved, it being said of him, "he had been round the world, but never in it. " The Duke of Newcastle observed of him : " There never was a more able, a more upright, or a more useful servant of his king and country, or a more sincere and valuable friend."
ANSON'S
VOYAGE VOYAGE
DEDICATION.
ROUND
THE
WORLD.
uninterrupted series of success, and a manifest superioritygained universally over the enemy, both in commerce and glory, seem to be the necessary effects of a revival of strict discipline, and of an unbiassed regard to merit and service. These are marks that must distinguish the happy period of time in which Your Grace presided, and afford a fitter subject for history
To His Grace, John, Duke of Bed ford, Marquis of Tavistock, Earl of Bedford, Baron Russel, Baron Russel of Thornhaugh , and Baron Howland of Streatham : one of His Majesty's Principal Secretaries of State, and Lord- Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum of the County of Bedford. than for an address of this nature. MY LORD,-The following narrative Very signal advantages of rank and of a very singular naval achievement distinction, obtained and secured to is addressed to Your Grace, both on the naval profession by Your Grace's account of the infinite obligations auspicious influence, will remain a which the Commander-in-Chief at all lasting monument of your unwearied times professes to have received from zeal and attachment to it, and be for your friendship ; and also, as the sub ever remembered with the highest ject itself naturally claims the patron gratitude by all who shall be employed age of one under whose direction the in it. As these were the generous British Navy has resumed its ancient rewards of past exploits, they will be likewise the noblest incentives and spirit and lustre, and has in one sum mer ennobled itself by two victories, surest pledges of the future. That the most decisive and (if the strength Your Grace's eminent talents, magna and numberofthe captures beconsider ed) the most important that are to be taking six ships, and winning promo tion to the rank of Vice-Admiral of met with in our annals.¹ Indeed, an the Blue. Of the first-named victory, it is narrated that when M. St George, 1 In 1747, when Anson, then Rear- captain of one of the French vessels, Admiral of the White, defeated the gave up his sword to Anson, he ad French Admiral, Ionquierre, near dressed him thus, with allusion to Cape Finisterre, capturing six ships of the names of two of the ships that the line and a valuable convoy, and had surrendered : " Vous avez vaincu gaining, as his reward, a peerage, L'Invincible, et La Gloire vous suit " with the title of Lord Anson, Baron " You have vanquished the Invin Soberton ; and Hawke totally defeated cible, and Glory follows you. " The the French fleet off Belleisle, also Dedication was written in 1748.
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 8 nimity, and disinterested zeal, whence | work, which, in gratifying the inquisi the public has already reaped such tive turn of mankind, and contribut signal benefits, may in all times prove ing to the safety and success of future navigators and to the extension of our equally successful in advancing the commerce and power, may doubtless prosperity of Great Britain, is the vie with any narration of this kind ardent wish of, My Lord, Your Grace's hitherto made public. Since the cir most obedient, most devcted, and cumstances ofthisundertaking already known to the world may be supposed most humble servant, to have strongly excited the general RICHARD WALTER. curiosity. For whether we consider the force of the squadron sent on this service, orthe diversified distresses that each single ship was separately in INTRODUCTION. volved in, or the uncommon instances of various fortune which attended NOTWITHSTANDING the great improve the whole enterprise, each part, I ment of navigation within the last conceive, must, from its rude well two centuries, a Voyage Round the known outlines, appear worthy of a World is still considered as an enter completer and more finished delinea prise of a very singular nature ; and tion.1 As there are hereafter occasionally the public have never failed to be ex tremely inquisitive about the various interspersed some accounts of Spanish accidents and turns of fortune with transactions, and many observations which this uncommon attempt is on the disposition of the American generally attended. And though the Spaniards, and on the condition of amusement expected in a narration of the countries bordering on the South this kind is doubtless one great source Seas, and as herein I may appear to of this curiosity, and a strong incite differ greatly from the opinions gene ment with the bulk of readers, yet the rally established, I think it incumbent more intelligent part of mankind have on me particularly to recite the author always agreed that from these rela ities I have been guided by on this tions, if faithfully executed, the more occasion, that I may not be censured important purposes of navigation, as having given way either to a commerce, and national interest may thoughtless credulity on one hand, or, be greatly promoted. For every au what would be a much more criminal thentic account of foreign coasts and imputation, to a wilful and deliberate countries will contribute to one or misrepresentation on the other. Mr more of these great ends in proportion Anson, before he set sail upon this to the wealth, wants, or commodities of those countries, and our ignorance 1 In the Introduction, and through of those coasts ; and therefore a Voy out the whole Narrative, all the de age Round the World promises a spe scriptions and references which relate cies of information of all others the to the elaborate charts, plans, and most desirable and interesting, since drawings of the original edition, and great part of it is performed in seas which are cumbrous and unintelligible and on coasts with which we are as without them , have been omitted ; as yet but very imperfectly acquainted, also many digressions of the Narrator and in the neighbourhood of a coun on nautical, topographical, or histori try renowned for the abundance of its cal points, which now serve little pur wealth, though it is at the same time pose but to delay the progress and stigmatised for its poverty in the enfeeble the interest of the main necessaries and conveniencies of a story. Those omissions, however, civilised life. save where trivial in matter or in These considerations have occa amount, have been mentioned in the ensuing publication the the of sioned notes.
INTRODUCTION. expedition, besides the printed jour | nals to those parts, took care to fur nish himself with the best manuscript accounts he could procure of all the Spanish settlements upon the coasts of Chili, Peru, and Mexico. These he carefully compared with the exami nations of his prisoners, and the infor mations of several intelligent persons who fell into his hands in the South Seas. He had likewise the good for tune, in some of his captures, to pos sess himself of a great number of letters and papers of a public nature, many of them written by the Viceroy of Peru to the Viceroy of Santa Fé, to the Presidents of Panama and Chili, to Don Blas de Lezo, Admiral of the Galleons, and to divers other persons in public employments ; and in these letters there was usually inserted a recital of those they were intended to answer ; so that they contained a considerable part of the correspondence between these officers for some time previous to our arrival on that coast. We took besides many letters, sent from persons employed by the Government to their friends and correspondents, which were fre quently filled with narrations of pub lic business, and sometimes contained undisguised animadversions on the views and conduct of their superiors. From these materials those accounts of the Spanish affairs are taken which may at first sight appear the most exceptionable. In particular, the history of the various casualties which befell Pizarro's squadron is for the most part composed from intercepted letters : though indeed the relation of the insurrection of Orellana and his followers is founded on rather a less disputable authority, for it was taken from the mouth of an English gentle man then on board Pizarro, who often conversed with Orellana ; and it was, on inquiry, confirmed in its principal circumstances by others who were in the ship at the same time : so that the fact, however extraordinary, is, I conceive, not to be contested. And on this occasion I cannot but mention, that though I have endea voured, with my utmost care, to adhere
9
strictly to truth in every article of the ensuing narration, yet I am apprehen sive thatin so complicated a work some oversights must have been committed, by the inattention to which at times all mankind are liable. However, I know of none but literal mistakes : and if there are other errors which have escaped me, I flatter myself they are not of moment enough to affect any material transaction, and therefore I hope they mayjustly claim the reader's indulgence.1 If what has been said merits the attention of travellers of all sorts, it is, I think, more particularly applic able to the gentlemen of the Navy ; since without drawing and planning neither chart nor views of lands can be taken ; and without these it is sufficiently evident that navigation is at a full stand. It is doubtless from a persuasion of the utility of these qualifications, that his Majesty has established a drawing-master at Ports mouth, for the instruction of those who are presumed to be hereafter in trusted with the command of his royal navy. And though some have been so far misled as to suppose that the perfection of sea-officers consisted in a turn of mind and temper resem bling the boisterous element they had to deal with, and have condemned all literature and science as effeminate, and derogatory to that ferocity which, they would falsely persuade us, was the most unerring characteristic of courage : yet it is to be hoped that such absurdities as these have at no time been authorised by the public opinion, and that the belief of them Indeed, daily diminishes. 1 A long passage is here omitted, in which the Author animates his countrymen to "the encouragement and pursuit of all kinds of nautical and geographical observations, and every species of mechanical and com mercial information, " and especially insists on the advantage and neces sity of a traveller's being able to draw, and possessing an acquaint ance with the general principles of surveying.
10
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. CH. I. when the many branches of science sailing and working a ship, as it has are considered of which even the com already done in many other matters monpractice ofnavigationis composed, conducive to the ease and convenience and the many improvements which of human life. For when the fabric men ofskill have added to this practice of a ship and the variety of her sails within these few years, it would induce are considered, together with the arti one to believe that the advantages of ficial contrivances of adapting them reflection and speculative knowledge to her different motions, as it cannot were in no profession more eminent be doubted but these things have than in that of a sea-officer. For, been brought about by more than not to mention some expertness in ordinary sagacity and invention, so geography, geometry, and astronomy, neither can it be doubted but that a which it would be dishonourable for speculative and scientific turn of mind him to be without (as his journal and may find out the means of directing his estimate of the daily position of and disposing this complicated me the ship are no more than the practice chanism much more advantageously of particular branches of these arts), than can be done by mere habit, or it may be well supposed that the man by a servile copying of what others agement and working of a ship, the may perhaps have erroneously_prac discovery of her most eligible position tised in the like emergency. But it in the water (usually styled her trim), is time to finish this digression, and and the disposition of her sails in the to leave the reader to the perusal of most advantageous manner, arearticles the ensuing work ; which, with how wherein the knowledge of mechanics little art soever it may be executed, cannot but be greatly assistant : and will yet, from the importance of the perhaps the application of this kind subject, and the utility and excellence of knowledge to naval subjects may of the materials, merit some share of produce as great improvements in the public attention.
BOOK CHAPTER I. THE Squadron under the command of Mr Anson, of which I here propose to recite the most material proceedings, having undergone many changes in its destination, its force, and its equip ment, in the ten months between its first appointment and its final sailing from St Helens, I conceive the his tory of these alterations is a detail necessary to be made public, both for the honour of those who first planned and promoted this enter prise, and for the justification of those who have been entrusted with its execution. Since it will from hence appear, that the accidents the expedition was afterwards exposed to, and which prevented it from pro
I.
ducing all the national advantages, the strength of the squadron and the expectation of the public seemed to presage, were principally owing to a series of interruptions which delayed the commander in the course of his preparations, and which it exceeded his utmost industry either to avoid or to get removed. When, in the latter end of the summer of the year 1739, it was fore seen that a war with Spain was in evitable, ¹ it was the opinion of several 1 A convention regulating the sum to be paid by Spain to England on account of damage sustained to Eng lish commerce through the arbitrary means taken bythe Spaniards to protect their American trade, had been signed
11 WAR WITH SPAIN INEVITABLE . 1739. ] considerable persons, then trusted with commander-in-chief of an expedition the administration of affairs, that the of this kind ; and he then being ab most prudent step the nation could sent on a cruise, a vessel was dis take, on the breaking out of the war, patched to his station so early as the was attacking that Crown in her dis beginning of September, to order him tant settlements : for by this means to return with his ship to Portsmouth. (as at that time there was the greatest And soon after he came there- that probability of success) it was sup is, on the 10th of November follow posed that we should cut off the prin ing-he received a letter from Sir cipal resources of the enemy, and re Charles Wager, ordering him to re duce them to the necessity of sin pair to London, and to attend the cerely desiring a peace, as they would Board of Admiralty ; where, when hereby be deprived of the returns of he arrived, he was informed by Sir that treasure by which alone they Charles that two squadrons would be could be enabled to carry on a war.¹ immediately fitted out for two secret In pursuance of these sentiments, expeditions, which, however, would several projects were examined, and have some connection with each several resolutions taken in Council. other ; that he, Mr Anson, was in And in these deliberations it was tended to command one of them, and from the first determined that George Mr Cornwall (who has since lost his Anson, Esq., then captain of the life gloriously in the defence of his 2 Centurion, should be employed as country's honour) the other ; that the squadron under Mr Anson was at Madrid in January 1739. But the to take on board three independ question ofthe Right of Search exer ent companies of a hundred men cised by the Spanish Crown over each, and Bland's regiment of foot ; English vessels trading to its western that Colonel Bland was likewise to colonies, and other delicate subjects embark with his regiment, and to of dispute, were reserved for future command the land forces ; and that, negotiation ; a fierce clamour of dis as soon as this squadron could be satisfaction with the Convention, and fitted for the sea, they were to set eagerness for war, arose among the sail, with express orders to touch British people and in Parliament ; at no place till they came to Java and Walpole, unable to stem the tide Head, in the East Indies ; that there of popular desire, resolved on enter they were only to stop to take in ing upon a conflict which he con water, and thence to proceed directly demned and deplored. The War is to the city of Manilla, situated on sometimes known as that of "the Luconia, one of the Philippine Is Merchants, " arising, as it did, purely lands ; that the other squadron was out of trade disputes ; it was de to be of equal force with this com clared in London, amid wild public rejoicing, on the 19th of October it used to be said of him that he had been round the world but never in 1739. 1 Compare the reasons assigned for it : he was dull and unready on land, Drake's fatal Puerto Rico expedition ; slow in business, and sparing of speech. But he had undaunted ante, page 99. 2 Earl Stanhope, in his " History bravery, steady application, and cool of England, " Chapter XXII. , says of judgment ; he punctually followed his Anson : 66 George Anson deserves to instructions, and zealously discharged be held forth as a model to British his duty ; and by these qualities seamen of what may be accomplished -qualities within the attainment by industry, by courage, by love of of all-did he rise to well-earned their profession. He was born of a honours, and bequeath an unsullied family at that period new and obscure, renown. 3 Or Luzon, the northernmost and nor had he the advantage of distin guished talents. After his expedition, largest of the group.
12 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. CH. I. manded by Mr Anson , and was in- | by almost half the circumference of tended to pass round Cape Horn into the globe, should have experienced the South Seas, and there to range from the Spanish Government a along that coast ; and after cruising greater share of attention and con upon the enemy in those parts, and cern for its security than Panama, attempting their settlements, this and the other important ports in squadron in its return was to rendez Peru and Chili, on which their pos vous at Manilla, and there to join session of that immense empire de the squadron under Mr Anson, where pends. Indeed, it is well known they were to refresh their men, and that Manilla was at that time in refit their ships, and perhaps receive capable of making any consider further orders.1 able defence, and, in all probability, This scheme was doubtless ex would have surrendered only on the tremely well projected, and could not appearance of our squadron before it. but greatly advance the public ser The consequence of this city, and vice, and at the same time the reputa the island it stands on, may be in tion and fortune of those concerned some measure estimated from the in its execution ; for had Mr Anson healthiness of its air, the excellency proceeded for Manilla at the time and of its port and bay, the number and in the manner proposed by Sir Charles wealth of its inhabitants, and the Wager, he would in all probability very extensive and beneficial2 com have arrived there before they had re merce which it carries on to the ceived any advice of the war between principal ports in the East Indies us and Spain, and consequently before and China, and its exclusive trade they had been in the least prepared to Acapulco, the returns for which, 3 for the reception of an enemy, or had being made in silver, are upon the any apprehensions of their danger. lowest valuation not less than three The city of Manilla might be well millions of dollars per annum. And on this scheme Sir Charles supposed to have been at that time in the same defenceless condition with Wager was so intent, that in a few all the other Spanish settlements just days after this first conference, that at the breaking out of the war ; that is, on November 18, Mr Anson re is to say, their fortifications neglected, ceived an order to take under his and in many places decayed ; their command the Argyle, Severn, Pearl, cannon dismounted, or useless by Wager, and Trial sloop ; and other the mouldering of their carriages ; orders were issued to him in the same their magazines, whether of military month, and in the December follow stores or provision, all empty ; their ing, relating to the victualling of this garrisons unpaid, and consequently squadron. But Mr Anson attending thin, ill-affected, and dispirited ; and the Admiralty the beginning of Janu the royal chests in Peru, whence ary, he was informed by Sir Charles alone all these disorders could receive Wager that for reasons with which their redress, drained to the very he, Sir Charles, was not acquainted, bottom. This, from the intercepted the expedition to Manilla was laid letters of their Viceroys and Gover aside. It may be conceived that Mr nors, is well known to have been the Anson was extremely chagrined at defenceless state of Panama and the losing the command of so infallible, other Spanish places on the coast of so honourable, and in every respect the South Seas, for near a twelve so desirable an enterprise, especially, month after our declaration of war. too, as he had already, at a very And it cannot be supposed that the great expense, made the necessary city of Manilla, removed still farther provision for his own accommodation
2 Profitable. 1 Ed. 1776 : " And perhaps receive orders for other considerable enter That is, for the Acapulco trade alone. prises."
13 EQUIPMENT OF THE SQUADRON. 1740.] in this voyage, which he had reason ! him he could spare him none, for he to expect would prove a very long wanted men for his own fleet. This one. However, Sir Charles, to render occasioned an inevitable and a very this disappointment in some degree considerable delay ; for it was the more tolerable, informed him that end of July before this deficiency was the expedition to the South Seas was by any means supplied, and all that still intended ; and that he, Mr was then done was extremely short of Anson, and his squadron, as their his necessities and expectation. For first destination was now counter Admiral Balchen, who succeeded to manded, should be employed in that the command at Spithead after Sir service. And on the 10th of January John Norris had sailed to the west [ 1740] he received his commission, ward, instead of 300 able sailors, appointing him commander-in-chief which Mr Anson wanted of his com of the forementioned squadron, which plement, ordered on board the squad (the Argyle being in the course of ron 170 men only, of which thirty their preparation changed for the two were from the hospital and sick Gloucester) was the same he sailed quarters, thirty- seven from the Salis with above eight months after from bury, with three officers of Colonel St Helens. On this change of desti Lowther's regiment, and ninety-eight nation, the equipment of the squad marines ; and these were all that were ron was still prosecuted with as much ever granted to make up the foremen vigour as ever ; and the victualling, tioned deficiency. But the Commodore's mortification and whatever depended on the Com modore, was [soon] so far advanced, did not end here. It has been already that he conceived the ships might be observed, that it was at first intended capable of putting to sea the instant that Colonel Bland's regiment, and he should receive his final orders, of three independent companies of 100 which he was in daily expectation. men each, should embark as land And at last, on the 28th of June forces on board the squadron. But 1740, the Duke of Newcastle, Princi this disposition was now changed, pal Secretary of State, delivered to and all the land forces that were to him his Majesty's instructions, dated be allowed were 500 invalids, to be January 31, 1739, with an additional collected from the out-pensioners of instruction from the Lords Justices, Chelsea College. As these out-pen dated June 19, 1740. On the receipt sioners consist of soldiers, who, from of these, Mr Anson immediately re their age, wounds, or other infirmities, paired to Spithead, with a resolution are incapable of service in marching to sail with the first fair wind, flat regiments, Mr Anson was greatly tering himself that all his delays chagrined at having such a decrepit were now at an end. For though he detachment allotted to him ; for he knew by the musters that his squad was fully persuaded that the greatest ron wanted 300 seamen of their com part of them would perish long be plement (a deficiency which, with all fore they arrived at the scene ofaction, his assiduity, he had not been able to since the delays he had already en get supplied), yet as Sir Charles Wager countered necessarily confined his informed him that an order from the passage round Cape Horn to the Board of Admiralty was despatched most rigorous season of the year. Sir to Sir John Norris to spare him the Charles Wager, too, joined in opinion numbers which he wanted, he doubted with the Commodore that invalids not of his complying therewith. But were no ways proper for this service, on his arrival at Portsmouth he found and solicited strenuously to have them himself greatly mistaken and disap exchanged ; but he was told, that pointed in this persuasion ; for, on persons who were supposed to be his application, Sir John Norris told better judges of soldiers than he or Mr Anson thought them the properest men that could be employed on this 1 Ed. 1776 : " His difficulties. "
14
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
occasion. And upon this determination they were ordered on board the squadron on the 5th of August ; but instead of 500 there came on board no more than 259 ; for all those who had limbs and strength to walk out of Portsmouth deserted, leaving behind them only such as were literally invalids, most of them being sixty years of age, and some of them upwards of seventy. Indeed, it is difficult to conceive a more moving scene than the embarkation of these unhappy veterans ; they were themselves extremely averse to the service they were engaged in, and fully apprised of all the disasters they were afterwards exposed to ; the apprehensions of which were strongly marked by the concern that appeared in their countenances, which was mixed with no small degree of indignation to be thus hurried from their repose into a fatiguing employ to which neither the strength of their bodies, nor the vigour of their minds, were any ways proportioned, and where, without seeing the face of an enemy, or in the least promoting the success of the enterprise they were engaged in, they would in all probability uselessly perish by lingering and painful dis eases ; and this, too, after they had spent the activity and strength of their youth in their country's ser vice. And I cannot but observe, on this melancholy incident, how extremely unfortunate it was, both to this aged and diseased detachment, and to the expedition they were employed in, that amongst all the out-pensioners of Chelsea Hospital, which were sup posed to amount to 2000 men, the most crazy and infirm only should be culled out for so fatiguing and peril
[B. I. CH. I.
ous an undertaking. For it was well known that, however unfit invalids in general might be for this service, yet by a prudent choice there might have been found amongst them 500 men who had some remains of vigour left. And Mr Anson fully expected that the best of them would have been allotted him ; whereas the whole detachment that was sent to him seemed to be made up of the most decrepit and miserable objects that could be collected out of the whole body ; and by the desertion above mentioned, [even] these were a second time cleared of that little health and strength which were to be found amongst them, and he was to take up with such as were much fitter for an infirmary than for any military duty. And here it is necessary to mention another material particular in the equipment of this squadron. It was proposed to Mr Anson, after it was resolved that he should be sent to the South Seas, to take with him two persons under the denomination of agent-victuallers. Those who were mentioned for this employment had formerly been in the Spanish West Indies, in the South Sea Company's service ; and it was supposed that by their knowledge and intelligence on that coast, they might often procure provision for him by compact with the inhabitants, when it was not to be got by force of arms. These agent victuallers were, for this purpose, to be allowed to carry to the value of £15,000 in merchandise on board the squadron ; for they had represented that it would be much easier for them to procure provisions with goods, than with the value of the same goods in money. Whatever colours were given to this scheme, it was difficult to persuade the generality of mankind that it was not principally intended for the enrichment of the agents, by the beneficial commerce they proposed to carry on upon that coast. Mr Anson, from the begin ning, objected both to the appoint
1 Sir John Barrow, in his Life of Anson, says " The feelings of these excellent judges are not to be envied, when they were afterwards made ac quainted with the fact, that not one of these unfortunate individuals, who went on the voyage, survived to reach their native land- every man had 2 Ed. 1776 : " In the Spanish American colonies." perished. "
T
15 1740. ] MANNING AND VICTUALLING OF THE SQUADRON. ment of agent-victuallers, and the the amount of them might be after allowing them to carry a cargo on wards magnified by common report board the squadron. For he con This cargo was at first shipped on ceived that in those few amicable board the Wager store-ship, and one ports where the squadron might of the victuallers ; no part of it being touch he needed not their assistance admitted on board the men-of-war. to contract for any provisions the But when the Commodore was at St place afforded ; and on the enemy's Catherine's, he considered, that in coast he did not imagine that they case the squadron should be separated, could ever procure him the necessaries it might be pretended that some of he should want, unless (which he was the ships were disappointed of pro resolved not to comply with) the visions for want of a cargo to truck military operations of his squadron with ; and therefore he distributed were to be regulated by the ridicul some ofthe least bulky commodities ous views of their trading projects. on board the men-of-war, leaving the All that he thought the Government remainder principally on board the ought to have done on this occasion Wager, where it was lost. And more was to put on board to the value of of the goods perishing, by various £2000 or £3000 only of such goods accidents to be recited hereafter, and as the Indians, or the Spanish plan no part of them being disposed of ters in the less cultivated part of the upon the coast, the few that came coast, might be tempted with ; since home to England did not produce, it was in such places only that he when sold, above a fourth part of the imagined it would be worth while to original price. So true was the Com truck with the enemy for provisions. modore's prediction about the event And in these places, it was suffi of this project, which had been by ciently evident, a very small cargo many considered as infallibly produc would suffice. tive of immense gains. But to return But though the Commodore ob to the transactions at Portsmouth. To supply the place of the 240 in jected both to the appointment of these officers, and to their project ; valids which had deserted, as is men yet, as they had insinuated that their tioned above, there were ordered on scheme, besides victualling the squad board 210 marines detached from ron might contribute to settling a different regiments. These were raw trade upon that coast, which might and undisciplined men, for they were be afterwards carried on without dif just raised, and had scarcely anything ficulty, and might thereby prove a more of the soldier than their regi very considerable national advantage, mentals, none of them having been they were much listened to by some so far trained as to be permitted to considerable persons. And of the fire. The last detachment of these £15,000, which was to be the amount marines came on board the 8th of of their cargo, the Government agreed August, and on the 10th the squad to advance them £10,000 upon im ron sailed from Spithead to St Helens, prest, 2 and the remaining £5000 they there to wait for a wind to proceed on raised on bottomry bonds ; and the the expedition. But the delays we goods purchased with this [latter] had already suffered had not yet spent sum were all that were taken to sea all their influence, for we were now by the squadron, how much soever advanced into a season of the year when the westerly winds are usually 1 Ed. 1776 adds : " Of the ill-suc very constant and very violent ; and it was thought proper that we should cess of which he had no question.'"" 2Prest money "" is money ad put to sea in company with the fleet vanced on condition that it shall be commanded by Admiral Balchen, and 66' ready " when the lender demands it the expedition under Lord Cathcart.3 back. French, " prêt ; " that is, it is lent " on call." 3 This expedition was designed to
16 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. CH. I. And as we made up in all twenty-one | wind blew so fresh that the whole men-of-war, and a 124 sail of mer fleet struck their yards and topmasts chantmen and transports, we had no to prevent their driving. And, not hopes of getting out of the Channel withstanding this precaution, the with so large a number of ships, with Centurion drove the next evening, out the continuance of a fair wind for and brought both cables ahead, and some considerable time. This was we were in no small danger of driving what we had every day less and less foul of the Prince Frederick, a seventy reason to expect, as the time of the gun ship, moored at a small distance equinox drew near ; so that our under our stern, which we happily golden dreams, and our ideal posses escaped, by her driving at the same sion of the Peruvian treasures, grew time, and so preserving our distance ; each day more faint, and the diffi nor did we think ourselves secure till culties and dangers of the passage we at last let go the sheet anchor, round Cape Horn in the winter season which fortunately brought us up. However, on the 9th of September filled our imaginations in their room. For it was forty days from our arrival we were in some degree relieved from at St Helens to our final departure this lingering vexatious situation by from thence. And even then (having an order which Mr Anson received orders to proceed without Lord Cath from the Lords Justices, to put to sea cart) we tided it down the Channel the first opportunity with his own with a contrary wind. But this in squadron only if Lord Cathcart should terval of forty days was not free from not be ready. Being thus freed from the displeasing fatigue of often setting the troublesome company of so large sail, and being as often obliged to a fleet, our Commodore resolved to return ; nor exempt from dangers weigh and tide it down Channel as greater than have been sometimes ex soon as the weather should become perienced in surrounding the globe. sufficiently moderate ; and this might For the wind coming fair for the first easily have been done with our own time on the 23d of August, we got squadron alone full two months under sail, and [ Admiral] Balchen sooner had the orders of the Admir showed himself truly solicitous to alty for supplying us with seamen have proceeded to sea ; but the wind, been punctually complied with, and soon returning to its old quarter, had we met with none of those other obliged us to put back to St Helens, delays mentioned in this narration. not without considerable hazard, and It is true, our hopes of a speedy depar some damage received by two of the ture were even now somewhat damped transports, which, in tacking, ran by a subsequent order which Mr An foul of each other. Besides this, we son received on the 12th of Septem made two or three more attempts to ber, for by that he was required to sail, but without any better success ; take under his convoy the St Albans, and on the 6th of September, being with the Turkey fleet, and to join returned to an anchor at St Helens, the Dragon and the Winchester, with after one of these fruitless efforts, the the Straits and the American trade, ¹ at Torbay or Plymouth, and to pro reinforce Admiral Vernon, who had ceed with them to sea as far as their captured Porto Bello in the preceding 1 That is, the merchant vessels pro November ; but through various de lays it did not sail till the end of ceeding to the Mediterranean through October, and after joining Vernon, the Straits of Gibraltar and to the the united force attacked Carthagena, American colonies ; the collectiveword only to be repulsed . Lord Cathcart, " trade " being aptly enough used to before that miscarriage, had died from denote the gathering of all the ships the effects of the climate, General bound for the one or the other desti Wentworth succeeding him in com nation, under the care of their armed mand of the troops. convovs.
DEPARTURE FROM ST HELENS . 17 1740.] way and ours lay together. This part of them incapable for action by encumbrance of a convoygave us some age and infirmities, and the other uneasiness, as we feared it might prove part useless by their ignorance of the means of lengthening our passage their duty. But the diminishing the to Madeira. However, Mr Anson, strength of the squadron was not the now having the command himself, greatest inconvenience which attended resolved to adhere to his former de these alterations, for the contests, re termination, and to tide it down the presentations, and difficulties which Channel with the first moderate they continually produced (as we have weather ; and that the junction of his above seen, that in these cases the convoy might occasion as little loss of authority of the Admiralty was not time as possible, he immediately sent always submitted to), occasioned a directions to Torbay that the fleets delay and waste of time which in its he was there to take under his care consequences was the source of all the might be in readiness to join him in disasters to which this enterprise was stantly on his approach. And at afterwards exposed. For bythis means last, on the 18th of September, he we were obliged to make our passage tempes weighed from St Helens ; and though round Cape Horn in the most the wind was at first contrary, had tuous season of the year, whence pro the good fortune to get clear of the ceeded the separation of our squadron, Channel in four days, as will be more the loss of numbers of our men, and particularly related in the ensuing the imminent hazard of our total de struction. And by this delay, too, Chapter. Having thus gone through the re the enemy had been so well informed spective steps taken in the equipment of our designs that a person who had of this squadron, it is sufficiently been employed in the South Sea Com obvious how different an aspect this pany's service, and arrived from Pan expedition bore at its first appoint ama three or four days before we left ment in the beginning of January Portsmouth, was able to relate to Mr from what it had in the latter end of Anson most of the particulars of the September when it left the Channel ; destination and strength of our squad and how much its numbers, its ron from what he had learned amongst strength, and the probability of its the Spaniards before he left them. success, were diminished by the vari And this was afterwards confirmed by ous incidents which took place in that a more extraordinary circumstance ; interval. For instead of having all for we shall find that when the Span our old and ordinary seamenexchanged iards (fully satisfied that our expedi for such as were young and able (which tion was intended for the South Seas) the Commodore was at first promised), had fitted out a squadron to oppose and having our numbers completed us, which had so far got the start of to their full complement, we were us as to arrive before us off the Island obliged to retain our first crews, which of Madeira, the commander of this were very indifferent ; and a deficiency squadron was so well instructed in the of 300 men in our numbers was no form and make of Mr Anson's broad otherwise made up to us than by send- pennant, and had imitated it so ex ing us on board 170 men, the greatest actly that he thereby decoyed the part composed of such as were dis- Pearl, one of our squadron, within charged new-raised himable before captainhis of marines from who hospitals, had neverorbeen at sea gun-shot the Pearlofwas tothe discover before. And in the land forces allot- mistake. ted us the change was still more dis advantageous, for there, instead of CHAPTER II. three independent companies of 100 men each, and Bland's regiment of foot, which was an old one, we had ON the 18th of September 1740, the only 470 invalids and marines - one squadron, as we have observed in the B
18 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. CH. II. preceding Chapter, weighed from St | Rye, with a number of merchantmen Helens with a contrary wind, the under their convoy. These we joined Commodore proposing to tide it down about noon the same day, our Com the Channel, as he dreaded less the modore having orders to see them (to inconveniences he should therebyhave gether with the [convoy of the] St to struggle with than the risk he Albans and Lark) as far into the sea should run of ruining the enterprise as their course and ours lay together. by an uncertain and in all probability When we came in sight of this last mentioned fleet, MrAnson first hoisted a tedious attendance for a fair wind. The squadron allotted to this ser his broad pennant, and was saluted vice consisted of five men-of-war, by all the men-of-war in company. a sloop-of-war, and two victualling When we had joined this last con ships. They were the Centurion, of voy, we made up eleven men-of-war, 60 guns, 400 men, George Anson, about 150 sail of merchantmen, con Esq., commander ; the Gloucester, of sisting of the Turkey, the Straits, and 50 guns, 300 men, Richard Norris, the American trade. Mr Anson, the commander ; the Severn, of 50 guns, same day, made a signal for all the 300 men, the Honourable Edward captains of the men-of-war to come on Legg, commander ; the Pearl, of 40 board him, where he delivered them guns, 250 men, Matthew Mitchel, their fighting and sailing instructions ; commander ; the Wager, of 28 guns, and then, with a fair wind, we all 160 men, Dandy Kidd, commander ; stood towards the south-west ; and and the Trial sloop, of 8 guns, 100 the next day at noon, being the 21st, men, the Honourable John Murray, we had run forty leagues from the commander. The two victuallers were Ram Head ; and being now clear of pinks, the largest about 400 and the the land, our Commodore, to render other about 200 tons burthen ; these our view more extensive, ordered Cap were to attend us till the provisions tain Mitchel, in the Pearl, to make we had taken on board were so far sail two leagues ahead of the fleet consumed as to make room for the every morning, and to repair to his additional quantity they carried with station every evening. Thus we pro them, which when we had taken ceeded till the 25th, when the Win into our ships they were to be dis chester and the American convoy charged. Besides the complement of made the concerted signal for leave to men borne by the above-mentioned separate, which being answered by ships as their crews, there were em the Commodore, they left us, as the barked on board the squadron about St Albans and the Dragon, with the 470 invalids and marines, under the Turkey and Straits convoy, did on the denomination of land forces, as has 29th. After which separation, there been particularly mentioned in the remained in company only our own preceding Chapter, which were com squadron and our two victuallers, with manded by Lieutenant-Colonel Crach which we kept on our course for the erode. With this squadron, together Island of Madeira. But the winds with the St Albans and the Lark, and were so contrary, that we had the mor the [Turkey] trade under their con tification to be forty days in our pass voy, Mr Anson, after weighing from age thither from St Helens, though St Helens, tided it down the Channel it is known to be often done in ten for the first forty-eight hours ; and on or twelve. This delay was a most the 20th, in the morning, we dis unpleasing circumstance, productive covered off the Ram Head the Dragon, Winchester, South Sea Castle, and 2 Nearly 200, according to Mr Parcoe Thomas, the mathematical 1 French, " Pinque;" originally ap master on board the Centurion, who plied to sailing ships of small size wrote an account of the voyage, from available for reconnoitring, spying, which many notes in this edition are or sounding purposes. derived.
THE ISLAND OF MADEIRA. 19 1740. ] of much discontent and ill-humour | the Longitude from London of, by our amongst our people, of which those different reckonings, from 18°30' to 19° only can have a tolerable idea who 30′ W. , though laid down in the charts have had the experience of a like in 17. It is composed of one con situation. And besides the peevish tinued hill, of a considerable height, ness and despondency which foul and extending itself from east to west, the contrary winds, and a lingering voy declivity of which, on the south side, age, never fail to create on all occa is cultivated and interspersed with sions, we in particular had very sub vineyards ; and in the midst of this stantial reasons to be greatly alarmed slope the merchants have fixed their at this unexpected impediment. For country seats, which help to form an as we had departed from England agreeable prospect. There is but one much later than we ought to have considerable town in the whole island, done, we had placed almost all our it is named Fonchiale [Funchal], and hopes of success in the chance of re is seated on the south part of the trieving in some measure at sea the island, at the bottom of a large bay. time we had so unhappily wasted at This is the only place of trade, and Spithead and St Helens. However, indeed the only one where it is pos at last, on Monday, October the 25th, sible for a boat to land. Fonchiale, at five in the morning, we, to our towards the sea, is defended by a high great joy, made the land, and in the wall, with a battery of cannon, besides afternoon came to an anchor in Ma a castle on the Loo, which is a rock deira Road in forty fathoms water -- standing in the water at a small dis the Brazen-Head bearing from us E. tance from the shore. Even here the by S., the Loo NNW. , and the Great beach is covered with large stones, Church NNE. We had hardly let go and a violent surf continually beats our anchor when an English privateer upon it : so that the Commodore did sloop ran under our stern and saluted not care to venture the ships ' long the Commodore with nine guns, which boats to fetch the water off, as there we returned with five ; and the next was so much danger of their being day, the [English] Consul of the lost ; and therefore ordered the cap island coming to visit the Commo tains of the squadron to employ Por dore, we saluted him with nine guns tuguese boats on that service. We continued about a week at this on his coming on board. This Island of Madeira, where we island, watering our ships, and pro are now arrived, is famous through all viding the squadron with wine and our American settlements for its ex other refreshments. And, on the 3d cellent wines, which seem to be de of November, Captain Richard Norris signed by Providence for the refresh having signified by a letter to the ment of the inhabitants of the torrid Commodore his desire to quit his zone. It is situated in a fine climate, command on board the Gloucester, in the Latitude of 32° 27′ N.; and in in order to return to England for the recovery of his health, the Commodore 1 Thomas mentions, that on the 13th complied with his request ; and there of October the first man lost on the upon was pleased to appoint Captain voyage died-a common sailor, named Matthew Mitchel to command the Philip Meritt ; and that next day, Gloucester in his room, and to remove by an order from the Commodore, the Captain Kidd from the Wager to the ship's company went on short allow Pearl, and Captain Murray from the ance-that is, one-third of the allow Trial sloop to the Wager, giving the ance granted by Government was kept command of the Trial to Lieutenant These promotions being back, to make the provisions hold Cheap. out the longer. Anson was evidently 2 The charts, however, are right ; disquieted and stimulated to foresight by the unpromising commencement of the best most modern maps placing voyage Madeira in 17°, his .
20 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. CH . II. settled, with other changes in the | but conjecture that this fleet was in lieutenancies, the Commodore, on the tended to put a stop to our expedition ; following day, gave to the captains which, had they cruised to the east their orders, appointing St Jago, one ward of the island instead of the west of the Cape Verd Islands, to be the ward, they could not but have executed first place of rendezvous in case of with great facility. For as, in that separation ; and directing them, if case, they must have certainly fallen they did not meet the Centurion in with us, we should have been there, to make the best of their way obliged to throw overboard vast quan to the Island of St Catherine's on the tities of provision to clear our ships coast of Brazil. The water for the for an engagement ; and this alone, squadron being the same day com without any regard to the event of pleted, and each ship supplied with the action, would have effectually as much wine and other refreshments prevented our progress. This was so as they could take in, we weighed obvious a measure, that we could not anchor in the afternoon, and took help imagining reasons which might our leave of the Island of Madeira. have prevented them from pursuing But, before I go on with the narra it. And we therefore supposed, that tion of our own transactions, I think this French or Spanish squadron was it necessary to give some account of sent out upon advice of our sailing the proceedings of the enemy, and of in company with Admiral Balchen the measures they had taken to ren and Lord Cathcart's expedition and thence, from an apprehension of der all our designs abortive. When Mr Anson visited the Gover being overmatched, they might not nor of Madeira, he received informa think it advisable to meet with us tion from him, that for three or four till we had parted company, which days in the latter end of October they might judge would not happen there had appeared, to the westward before our arrival at this island. of that island, seven or eight ships These were our speculations at that of the line, and a patache, which last time ; and from hence we had reason was sent every day close in to make to suppose, that we might still fall the land. The Governor assured the in with them in our way to the Cape Commodore, upon his honour, that Verd Islands. And afterwards, in none upon the island had either the course of our expedition, we were given them intelligence, or had in many of us persuaded that this was any sort communicated with them ; the Spanish squadron commanded by but that he believed them to be either Don Joseph Pizarro, which was sent French or Spanish, but was rather out purposely to traverse the views inclined to think them Spanish. On and enterprises of our squadron, to this intelligence, Mr Anson sent an which in strength they were greatly officer in a clean sloop eight leagues superior. As this Spanish armament to the westward, to reconnoitre them, then, was so nearly connected with and, if possible, to discover what our expedition , and as the catastrophe they were. But the officer returned it underwent, though not effected by without being able to get a sight of our force, was yet a considerable ad them, so that we still remained in vantage to this nation produced in uncertainty. However, we could not consequence ofour equipment, I have, in the following Chapter, given a summary account of their proceed 2 Thomas, who put the suspicious ings, from their first setting out from squadron at sixteen or eighteen sail, Spain in the year 1740, till the Asia, and supposes that they were a junc the only ship which returned to tion of French and Spanish ships of Europe of the whole squadron, ar war, says that Anson sent out " an rived at the Groyne [Corunna] in the English privateer which lay in the beginning of the year 1746. road."
21 THE SPANISH SQUADRON. nado, at the mouth of that river, CHAPTER III. their Admiral, Pizarro, sent immedi ately to Buenos Ayres for a supply THE Squadron fitted out by the Court of provisions ; for they had departed of Spain to attend our motions, and from Spain with only four months' traverse our projects, we supposed to provisions on board. While they lay have been the ships seen off Madeira, here expecting this supply, they re as mentioned in the preceding Chap- ceived intelligence, by the treachery ter. And as this force was sent out of the Portuguese Governor of St particularly against our expedition , Catherine's, of Mr Anson's having I cannot but imagine that the follow- arrived at that island on the 21st of ing history of the casualties it met December preceding, and of his pre with, as far as by intercepted letters paring to put to sea again with the and other information the same has utmost expedition. Pizarro, notwith come to my knowledge, is a very standing his superior force, had his essential part of the present work. reasons (and as some say his orders For by this it will appear we were likewise) for avoiding our squadron the occasion that a considerable part anywhere short of the South Seas. of the naval power of Spain was He was, besides, extremely desirous diverted from the prosecution of the of getting round Cape Horn before ambitious views of that Court in us, as he imagined that step alone Europe ; and the men and ships lost would effectually baffle all our de by the enemy in this undertaking signs ; and therefore, on hearing that were lost in consequence of the pre we were in his neighbourhood, and cautions they took to secure them that we should soon be ready to pro selves against our enterprises. This ceed for Cape Horn, he weighed squadron (besides two ships intended anchor with the five large ships (the for the West Indies, which did not patache being disabled and condemn part company till after they had left ed, and the men taken out of her), Madeira) was composed of the follow after a stay of seventeen days only, ing men-of-war, commanded by Don and got under sail without his pro Joseph Pizarro : visions, which arrived at Maldonado The Asia, of 66 guns, and 700 men within a day or two after his depar ture. But notwithstanding the pre this was the Admiral's ship. The Guipuscoa, of 74 guns, and 700 cipitation with which he departed, we men. put to sea from St Catherine's four The Hermiona, of 54 guns, and 500 days before him ; and in some part men. of our passage to Cape Horn the two The Esperanza, of 50 guns, and 450 squadrons were so near together, that men. the Pearl, one of our ships, being The St Estevan, of 40 guns, and separated from the rest, fell in with 350 men. the Spanish Fleet, and mistaking the And a patache of 20 guns. Asia for the Centurion, had got with These ships, over and above their in gun-shot of Pizarro before she complement of sailors and marines, discovered her error, and narrowly had on board an old Spanish regiment escaped being taken. It being the 22d of January when of foot, intended to reinforce the gar risons on the coast of the South Seas. the Spaniards weighed from Maldo When this fleet had cruised for some nado, they could not expect to get days to the leeward of Madeira, as is into the latitude of Cape Horn be mentioned in the preceding Chapter, fore the equinox ; and as they had they left that station in the beginning reason to apprehend very tempestuous of November, and steered for the weather in doubling it at that season, River of Plate, where they arrived and as the Spanish sailors, being for the 5th of January, O.S.; and com the most part accustomed to a fair ing to an anchor in the Bay of Maldo- weather country, might be expected 1740.]
22 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. Cп . III . to be very averse to so dangerous and on board our squadron the ravage of fatiguing a navigation, the better to a most destructive and incurable dis encourage them, some part of their ease, and on board the Spanish squad pay was advanced to them in Euro ron the devastation of famine. pean goods, which they were to be For this squadron, either from the permitted to dispose of in the South hurry of their outset, ¹ their presump Seas ; that so the hopes of the great tion of a supply at Buenos Ayres, or profit each man was to make on his from other less obvious motives, de small venture might animate him in parted from Spain, as has been al his duty, and render him less disposed ready observed, with no more than to repine at the labour, the hardships, four months' provision, and even and the perils he would in all pro that, as it is said, at short allowance bability meet with before his arrival only ; so that, when by the storms on the coast of Peru. they met with off Cape Horn their Pizarro with his squadron having, continuance at sea was prolonged a towards the latter end of February, month or more beyond their expecta run the length of Cape Horn, he then tion, they were thereby reduced to stood to the westward in order to such infinite distress, that rats, when double it ; but in the night of the they could be caught, were sold for last day of February, O.S. , while with four dollars a-piece ; and a sailor, who this view they were turned to wind died on board, had his death concealed ward, the Guipuseoa, the Hermiona, for some days by his brother, who and the Esperanza were separated during that time lay in the same from the Admiral. On the 6th of hammock with the corpse, only to March following, the Guipuscoa was receive the dead man's allowance of separated from the other two ; and on provisions. In this dreadful situation the 7th (being the day after we had they were alarmed (if their horrors passed Straits le Maire) there came were capable of augmentation) by the on a most furious storm at NW. , discovery of a conspiracy among the which, in despite of all their efforts, marines on board the Asia, the Ad drove the whole squadron to the miral's ship. This had taken its rise eastward, and obliged them, after chiefly from the miseries they en several fruitless attempts, to bear dured. For though no less was away for the River of Plate, where proposed by the conspirators than Pizarro in the Asia arrived about the the massacring the officers and the middle of May, and a few days after whole crew, yet their motive for him the Esperanza and the St Este this bloody resolution seemed to be van. The Hermiona was supposed to no more than their desire of relieving founder at sea, for she was never their hunger, by appropriating the heard of more ; and the Guipuscoa whole ship's provisions to themselves. was run ashore and sunk on the coast But their designs were prevented, of Brazil. The calamities of all kinds when just upon the point of execu which this squadron underwent in tion, by means of one of their con this unsuccessful navigation can only fessors, and three of their ringleaders be paralleled by what we ourselves were immediately put to death. How experienced in the same climate when ever, though the conspiracy was sup buffeted by the same storms. There pressed, their other calamities ad was indeed some diversity in our dis mitted of no alleviation, but grew tresses, which rendered it difficult to each day more and more destructive ; decide whose situation was most so that by the complicated distress of worthy of commiseration. For to fatigue, sickness, and hunger, the all the misfortunes we had in common three ships which escaped lost the with each other, as shattered rigging, greatest part of their men. The leaky ships, and the fatigues and de Asia, their Admiral's ship, arrived spondency which necessarily attend 1 El. 1776 : " Outfit. " these disasters, there was superadded
23 THE FATE OF PIZARRO'S SQUADRON. 1741-45]. at Monte Video in the River of Plate, round ; for Mindinuetta refused to with half her crew only ; the St Es deliver her up to him, insisting that tevan had lost in like manner half as he came into the South Seas alone, her hands when she anchored in the and under no superior, it was not now Bay of Barragan. The Esperanza, a in the powerof Pizarro to resume that fifty-gun ship, was still more unfor authority which he had once parted tunate, for of 450 hands which she with. However, the President ofChili brought from Spain, only fifty-eight interposing, and declaring for Pizarro, remained alive ; and the whole regi Mindinuetta, aftera long and obstinate ment of foot perished except sixty struggle, was obliged to submit. men. But Pizarro had not yet completed The Asia having considerably suf- the series of his adventures ; for when fered in this second unfortunate ex- he and Mindinuetta came back by pedition (see Note 1 ), the Esperanza, land from Chili to Buenos Ayres, in which had been left behind at Monte the year 1745, they found at Monte Video, was ordered to be refitted, the Video the Asia, which near three command of her being given to Min- years before they had left there. dinuetta, who was captain of the This ship they resolved, if possible, Guipuscoa when she was lost. He, to carry to Europe, and with this in the November of the succeeding view they refitted her in the best year, that is, in November 1742, manner they could ; but their great sailed from the River of Plate for the difficulty was to procure a sufficient South Seas, and arrived safe on the number of hands to navigate her, for coast of Chili, where his Commodore, all the remaining sailors of the squad Pizarro, passing overland from Buenos ron to be met with in the neighbour Ayres, met him. There were great hood of Buenos Ayres did not amount animosities and contests between these to 100 men. They endeavoured two gentlemen at their meeting, oc to supply this defect by pressing casioned principally by the claim of many of the inhabitants of Buenos Pizarro to command the Esperanza, Ayres, and putting on board besides which Mindinuetta had brought all the English prisoners then in their custody, together with a number of 1 The fate of the Guipuscoa was Portuguese smugglers whom they had little better. On being separated taken at different times, and some of from the Hermiona and Esperanza in the Indians of the country. Among a fog on March 6th, they met with a these last there was a chief and ten severe storm while SE. from Staten of his followers, who had been sur Island . They were driven out of prised by a party of Spanish soldiers their course, and did not reach the about three months before. The name shore on the coast of Brazil till 24th ofthis chiefwas Orellana : he belonged April, when those on board were re to a very powerful tribe, which had duced to one ounce and a half of committed great ravages in the neigh biscuit a man per day. Many died bourhood of Buenos Ayres. With through the hardships of the voyage ; this motley crew (all of them, except the remainder of the crew, to the the European Spaniards, extremely number of 400, got safely to land, averse to the voyage) Pizarro set sail when the vessel sank shortly after from Monte Video in the River of wards. The three remaining ships of Plate, about the beginning of No the squadron which got into the River vember 1745 ; and the native Span Plate sent an advice boat to Rio Jan iards, being no strangers to the dis eiro for provisions and help, and an satisfaction of theirforced men, treated express across the Continent to Sant both those, the English prisoners and iago. An attempt was made to round the Indians, with great insolence and Cape Horn, in the Asia, in October barbarity, but more particularly the following, but they were driven back Indians ; for it was common for the meanest officers in the ship to beat to the River Plate in great distress.
24 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B.I.Cп.III. them most cruelly on the slightest | scheme was perhaps precipitated by pretences, and oftentimes only to a particular outrage committed on exert their superiority. Orellana and Orellana himself. For one of the his followers, though in appearance officers, who was a very brutal fellow, sufficiently patient and submissive, ordered Orellana aloft ; which being meditated a severe revenge for all what he was incapable of performing, these inhumanities. As he conversed the officer, under pretence of his dis very well in Spanish (these Indians obedience, beat him with such violence having in time of peace a great inter that he left him bleeding on the deck, course with Buenos Ayres), he affected and stupefied for some time with his to talk with such of the English as bruises and wounds. This usage un understood that language, and seemed doubtedly heightened his thirst for very desirous of being informed how revenge, and made him eager and manyEnglishmen there were on board, impatient till the means of executing and which they were. As he knew it were in his power ; so that within that the English were as much ene a day or two after this incident he mies to the Spaniards as himself, he and his followers opened 2 their des had doubtless an intention of disclos perate resolves in the ensuing manner. It was about nine in the evening, ing his purposes to them, and making them partners in the scheme he had when many of the principal officers projected for revenging his wrongs were on the quarter-deck indulging and recovering his liberty ; but having in the freshness of the night air ; the sounded them at a distance, and not waist of the ship was filled with live finding them so precipitate and vin cattle, and the forecastle was manned dictive as he expected, he proceeded with its customary watch. Orellana no further with them, but resolved to and his companions, under cover of trust alone to the resolution of his the night, having prepared their ten faithful followers. These, it should weapons, and thrown off their trousers seem, readily engaged to observe his and the more cumbrous part of their directions, and to execute whatever dress, came all together on the quarter commands he gave them ; and having deck, and drew towards the door of agreed on the measures necessary to the great cabin. The boatswain im be taken, they first furnished them mediately reprimanded them, and selves with Dutch knives sharp at the ordered them to be gone. On this point, which, being the common knives Orellana spoke to his followers in his used in the ship, they found no diffi native language, when four of them culty in procuring. Besides this, drew off, two towards each gangway, they employed their leisure in secretly and the chief and the six remaining cutting out thongs from raw hides, of Indians seemed to be slowly quitting When the de which there were great numbers on the quarter-deck. board, and in fixing to each end of tached Indians had taken possession these thongs the double-headed shot of the gangways, Orellana placed his of the small quarter-deck guns : this, hands hollow to his mouth, and bel when swung round their heads ac lowed out the war-cry used by those cordingto thepractice of their country, savages, which is said to bethe harshest was a most mischievous weapon, in the and most terrifying sound known in use of which the Indians about Buenos nature. This hideous yell was the Ayres are trained from their infancy, signal for beginning the massacre : and consequently are extremely ex for on this the [ Indians] all drew pert. These particulars being in good their knives, and brandished their forwardness, the execution of their prepared double-headed shot, and the six, with their chief, who remained 1 "Affect " is here used, not in the on the quarter-deck, immediately fell sense of making an ostentatious pre on the Spaniards who were inter tence or show, but in that of preferring or making a practice of something . • Ed. 1776 ; " Began to execute,"
25 THE MUTINY OF ORELLANA. 1745.1 mingled with them, and laid near | by the obscurity of the night, had at forty of them at their feet, of whom first greatly magnified their danger, above twenty were killed on the spot, and had filled them with the imagi and the rest disabled. Many of the nary terrors which darkness, disorder, officers, in the beginning of the tu and an ignorance of the real strength mult, pushed into the great cabin, of an enemy never fail to produce. where they put out the lights, and For as the Spaniards were sensible barricaded the door. And of the of the disaffection of their pressed others, who had avoided the first fury hands, and were also conscious of of the Indians, some endeavoured to their barbarity to their prisoners, escape along the gangways into the they imagined the conspiracy was forecastle ; but the Indians placed general, and considered their own there on purpose stabbed the greatest destruction as infallible ; so that, it is part of them as they attempted to said, some of them had once taken the pass by, or forced them off the gang- resolution of leaping into the sea, but ways into the waist. Others threw were prevented by their companions. However, when the Indians had themselves voluntarily over the barri cades into the waist, and thought entirely cleared the quarter-deck, the themselves happy to lie concealed tumult in a great measure subsided ; amongst the cattle ; but the greatest for those who had escaped were kept part escaped up the main-shrouds, silent by their fears, and the Indians and sheltered themselves either in were incapable of pursuing them to the tops or rigging. And though the renew the disorder. Orellana, when Indians attacked only the quarter he saw himself master of the quarter deck, yet the watch in the forecastle deck, broke open the arm chest, finding their communication cut off, which, on a slight suspicion of mu and being terrified by the wounds of tiny, had been ordered there a few the few who, not being killed on the days before, as to a place of the spot, had strength sufficient to force greatest security. Here, he took it their passage along the gangways, for granted, he should find cutlasses and not knowing either who their sufficient for himself and his com enemies were or what were their num panions, in the use of which weapon bers, they likewise gave all over for they were all extremely skilful, and lost, and in great confusion ran up with these, it was imagined, they into the rigging of the foremast and proposed to have forced the great cabin ; but on opening the chest bowsprit. Thus these eleven Indians, with a there appeared nothing but fire-arms, resolution perhaps without example, which to them were of no use. There possessed themselves almost in an were indeed cutlasses in the chest, instant of the quarter-deck of a ship | but they were hid by the fire-arms mounting sixty-six guns, with a crew being laid over them. This was a of nearly 500 men, and continued in sensible disappointment to them, and peaceable possession of this post a by this time Pizarro and his com considerable time : for the officers in panions in the great cabin were cap the great cabin (amongst whom were able of conversing aloud, through the Pizarro and Mindinuetta), the crew cabin windows and port-holes, with between decks, and those who had those in the gun-room and between escaped into the tops and rigging, decks ; and from hence they learned were only anxious for their own safety, that the English (whom they princi and were for a long time incapable of pallysuspected) were all safe below, and forming any project for suppressing had not intermeddled in this mutiny ; the insurrection and recovering the and by other particulars they at last possession of the ship. It is true, discovered that none were concerned the yells of the Indians, the groans in it but Orellana and his people. On of the wounded, and the confused this Pizarro and the officers resolved clamours of the crew, all heightened to attack them on the quarter-deck,
26 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. CH . IV . before any of the discontented on the Asia only, with less than 100 board should so far recover their first hands, may be considered as all the surprise as to reflect on the facility remains of that squadron with which and certainty of seizing the ship by a Pizarro first put to sea. And who junction with the Indians in the pre- ever attends to the very large propor sent emergency. With this view tion which this squadron bore to the Pizarro got together what arms were whole navy of Spain, will, I believe, in the cabin, and distributed them to confess that had our undertaking those who were with him ; but there been attended with no other advan were no other fire-arms to be met with tages than that of ruining so great a but pistols, and for these they had part of the sea force of so dangerous neither powder nor ball. However, an enemy, this alone would be a suf having now settled a correspondence ficient equivalent for our equipment, with the gun-room, they lowered and an incontestable proof of the ser down a bucket out of the cabin win- vice which the nation has thence re dow, into which the gunner, out of ceived. Having thus concluded this one of the gun-room ports, put a summary of Pizarro's adventures, I quantity of pistol cartridges. When shall now return again to the narra they had thus procured ammunition, tion of our own transactions. and had loaded their pistols, they set the cabin-door partly open, and fired some shot amongst the Indians on CHAPTER IV. the quarter-deck, at first without effect. But at last Mindinuetta, whom we have often mentioned, had I HAVE already mentioned, that on the good fortune to shoot Orellana the 3d of November we weighed from dead on the spot ; on which his Madeira, after orders had been given faithful companions, abandoning all to the captains to rendezvous at Sant thoughts of further resistance, in iago, one of the Cape Verd Islands, stantly leaped into the sea, where in case the squadron was separated. they every man perished. Thus was But the next day, when we were got this insurrection quelled, and the to sea, the Commodore, considering possession of the quarter-deck re that the season was far advanced, gained, after it had been full two and that touching at Santiago would hours in the power of this great and create a new delay, he for this reason daring chief and his gallant and un thought proper to alter his rendez vous, and to appoint the Island of St happy countrymen. Pizarro, having escaped this immi Catherine's, on the coast of Brazil, to nent peril, steered for Europe, and be the first place to which the ships arrived safe on the coast of Gallicia of the squadron were to repair in case in the beginning of the year 1746, of separation. In our passage to the after having been absent between four Island of St Catherine's, we found the and five years, and having, by his direction of the trade-winds to differ attendance on our expedition, dimin considerably from what we had reason ished the naval power of Spain by to expect, both from the general his above 3000 hands (the flower of their tories given of these winds, and the sailors) and by four considerable ships experience of former navigators.¹ On the 16th of November, one of of war and a patache. For we have seen that the Hermiona foundered our victuallers made a signal to speak at sea ; the Guipuscoa was stranded with the Commodore, and we short and sunk on the coast of Brazil ; the ened sail for her to come up with us. St Estevan was condemned and broken The master came on board, and ac up in the River of Plate ; and the 1 Omission is here made of some Esperanza, being left in the South Seas, is doubtless by this time incap technical and obsolete observations able of returning to Spain. So that on the trade-winds,
27 THE INDUSTRY PINK DISBANDED. 1740. ] quainted Mr Anson that he had com with the squadron ; and about noon plied with the terms of his charter a signal was made for the Wager to party, and desired to be unloaded take our remaining victuallar, the and dismissed. Mr Anson, on con Anna pink, in tow. But at seven in sulting the captains of the squadron, the evening, finding we did not near found all the ships had still such the chase, and that the Wager was quantities of provision between their very far astern, we shortened sail, decks, and were withal so deep, that and made a signal for the cruisers to they could not without great difficulty join the squadron. The next day take in their several proportions of but one we again discovered a sail, brandy from the Industry pink, one which, on the nearer approach, we of the victuallers only ; and conse judged to be the same vessel. We quently he was obliged to continue chased her the whole day, and though the other of them, the Anna pink, in we rather gained upon her, yet night the service of attending the squadron. came on before we could overtake her, And the next day the Commodore and obliged us to give over the chase, made a signal for the ships to bring to collect our scattered squadron. We to, and to take on board their shares were much chagrined at the escape of of the brandy from the Industry pink ; this vessel, as we then apprehended and in this the long-boats of the her to be an advice boat sent from Old squadron were employed the three Spainto Buenos Ayres with noticeofour following days, that is, till the 19th expedition. But we have since learned in the evening, when the pink being thatwewere deceived in this conjecture, unloaded, she parted company with and that it was our East India Com us, being bound for Barbadoes, there pany's packet bound to St Helena. On the 10th of December, being by to take in a freight for England. Most of the officers of the squadron our accounts in the Latitude of 20° S. , took the opportunity of writing to and 36° 30′Longitude W. from London, their friends at home by this ship ; theTrialfired aguntodenote soundings. but she was afterwards, as I have We immediately sounded, and found been since informed, unhappily taken sixty fathoms water, the bottom coarse by the Spaniards. ground with broken shells. The Trial, On the 20th of November, the cap beingahead ofus, hadatonetimethirty tains of the squadron represented to seven fathoms, which afterwards in the Commodore that their ships' com creased to ninety : and then she found panies were very sickly, and that it no bottom, which happened to us too was their own opinion as well as their at our second trial, though we sounded surgeons' that it would tend to the with 150 fathoms of line. This is the preservation of the men to let in more shoal which is laid down in most air between decks ; but that their charts by the name of the Abrollos ; ¹ ships were so deep they could not and it appeared we were upon the very possibly open their lower ports. On edge of it ; perhaps farther in it may this representation the Commodore be extremely dangerous. We were ordered six air-scuttles to be cut in then, by our different accounts, from each ship, in such places where they ninety to sixty leagues east ofthe coast would least weaken it. of Brazil. The next day but one we We crossed the Equinoctial, with a spoke with a Portuguese brigantine fine fresh gale at SE., on Friday the from Rio Janeiro, bound to Bahia de 28th of November, at four in the todos los Santos, who informed us that morning, being then in the Longitude we were sixty-four leagues from Cape of 27° 59' W. from London. And on St Thomas, and forty leagues from the 2d of December, in the morning, Cape Frio, which last bore from us we saw a sail in the NW. quarter, and made the Gloucester's and Trial's 1 The Abrolhos ; a small group of signals to chase ; and half-an-hour islets or reefs off the coast of Brazil, after we let [out] our reefs and chased in about Lat. 18° S., Long. 39° W.
28 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. Ch. IV. WSW. by our accounts we were near first saw it, it was about seventeen eighty leagues from Cape Frio ; and leagues distant. At noon we per though, on the information of this ceived a low double land bearing brigantine, we altered our course and WSW. , about ten leagues distant, stood more to the southward, yet by which we took to be the Island of St ourcoming in with the land afterwards Catherine's. That afternoon and the we were fully convinced that our next morning, the wind being NNW., reckoning was much correcter than we gained very little to windward, our Portuguese intelligence. We and were apprehensive of being driven found a considerable current setting to the leewardof the island; but a to the southward after we had passed little before noon the next day the the Latitude of 16° S. And the same wind came about to the southward, took place all along the coast of Brazil, and enabled us to steer in between the and evento the southward ofthe River north point of St Catherine's and the of Plate, it amounting sometimes to neighbouring Island of Alvoredo. As thirty miles in twenty-four hours, and we stood in for the land, we had regu once to above forty miles. • · lar soundings, gradually decreasing We nowbegan to grow impatient from thirty-six to twelve fathoms, all for a sight of land, both for the re muddy ground. In this last depth covery of our sick, and for the refresh of water we let go our anchor at 5 ment and security of those who as yet o'clock in the evening of the 19th, continued healthier. When we de the north-west point of the Island of parted from St Helens, we were in so St Catherine's bearing SSW. distant good a condition, that we lost but two three miles ; and the Island Alvoredo men on board the Centurion in our NNE. distant two leagues. Here we long passage to Madeira. But in found the tide to set SSE. and NNW. , this present run between Madeira and at the rate of two knots, the tide of St Catherine's we have been very flood coming from the southward. sickly, so that many died, and great We could from our ships observe two numbers were confined to their ham fortifications at a considerable distance mocks, both in our own ship and in within us, which seemed designed to the rest of the squadron ; and several prevent the passage of an enemy be of these past all hopes of recovery. tween the Island of St Catherine's The disorders they in general labour and the main. And we could soon under are such as are common to the perceivethat our squadron had alarmed hot climates, and what most ships the coast, for we saw the two forts bound to the southward experience hoist their colours, and fire several in a greater or less degree. These guns, which we supposed to be in are those kind of fevers which they tended for assembling the inhabitants. usually call calentures : a disease To prevent any confusion, the Com which was not only terrible in its modore immediately sent a boat with first instance, but even the remains an officer on shore, to compliment of it often proved fatal to those who the Governor, and to desire a pilot to considered themselves as recovered carry us into the road. The Governor from it. For it always left them in returned a very civil answer, and a very weak and helpless condition, ordered us a pilot. On the morning and usually afflicted with fluxes and of the 20th we weighed and stood in, tenesmuses. And by our continuance and towards noon the pilot came on at sea all our complaints were every board us, who the same afternoon day increasing, so that it was with brought us to an anchor in five fathoms great joy that we discovered the coast and a half, in a large commodious bay of Brazil on the 18th of December, at on the continent side, called by the French Bon Port. In standing from seven in the morning. The coast of Brazil appeared high our last anchorage to this place, we and mountainous land, extending everywhere found an oozy bottom, from W. to WSW., and when we with a depth of water first regularly
AT ANCHOR ON ST CATHERINE'S ISLAND. 29 1740. ) decreasing to five fathoms, and then performed this necessary duty, we increasing to seven, after which we scraped our decks, and gave our ship had six and five fathoms alternately. a thorough cleansing ; then smoked it The next morning we weighed again between decks, and after all washed with the squadron, in order to run every part well with vinegar. These above the two fortifications we have operations were extremely necessary mentioned, which are called the castles for correcting the noisome stench on of Santa Cruz and St Juan. And board, and destroying the vermin : now the soundings between the island for from the number of our men, and and the main were four, five, and six the heat of the climate, both these fathoms, with muddy ground. As nuisances had increased upon us to a we passed by the castle of Santa Cruz, | very loathsome degree, and, besides we saluted it with eleven guns, and being most intolerably offensive, they were answered by an equal number ; were doubtless in some sort productive and at one in the afternoon the squad of the sickness we had laboured under ron came to an anchor in five fathoms for a considerable time before our and a half, the Governor's Island bear arrival at this island. Our next em ing NNW. , St Juan's castle NE. half ployment was wooding and watering E., and the Island of St Antonio S. our squadron, calking our ships ' sides In this position we moored at the and decks, overhauling our rigging, Island of St Catherine's on Sunday and securing our mast against the the 21st of December, the whole tempestuous weather we were, in all squadron being, as I have already probability, to meet with in our pass mentioned, sickly and in great want age round Cape Horn in so advanced of refreshments : both which incon and inconvenient a season. · When we first arrived at St Cather veniencies we hoped to have soon removed at this settlement, celebrated ine's we were employed in refreshing by former navigators for its healthi our sick on shore, in wooding and ness and its [abundance of] provisions, watering the squadron, cleansing our and for the freedom, indulgence, and ships, and examining and securing friendly assistance there given to the our masts and rigging, as I have al ships of all European nations in ready observed in the foregoing Chap ter. At the same time, Mr Anson amity with the Crown of Portugal. gave directions that the ships' com panies should be supplied with fresh meat, and that they should be victu alled with whole allowance of all CHAPTER V.¹ kinds of provision . In consequence OUR first care, after having moored of these orders, we had fresh beef our ships, was to send our sick men sent on board us continually for our on shore, each ship being ordered by daily expense, and what was wanting the Commodore to erect two tents for to make up our allowance we received that purpose ; one of them for the re from our victualler, the Anna pink, ception ofthe diseased, and the other in order to preserve the provisions on for the accommodation of the surgeon board our squadron entire for our and his assistants. We sent about future service.³ The season of the eighty sick from the Centurion, and the other ships I believe sent nearly 2 Consumption. as many in proportion to the number 3 Thomas says that "the agents of their hands. As soon as we had for victualling, of which we had two with us, were ordered to procure what 1 The description of the island, ex fresh provisions we could expend dur cept one passage of political interest, ing our stay here, which they accord and the account of Brazil, is here ingly did ; but though their meat, omitted, as needlessly hindering the which is altogether beef, was hoth course of the narrative. cheap and plenty, it was for the
30 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. CH. V. year growing each day less favourable On the 27th of December we dis for our passage round Cape Horn, Mr covered a sail in the offing ; and not Anson was very desirous of leaving knowing but she might be a Spaniard, this place as soon as possible ; and the eighteen-oared boat was manned we were at first in hopes that our and armed, and sent under the com whole business would be done, and mand of our second lieutenant to ex we should be in readiness to sail in amineher before she arrived within the about a fortnight from our arrival ; protection of the forts. She proved to but, on examining the Trial's masts, be a Portuguese brigantine from Rio we, to our no small vexation, found Grande. And though our officer, as inevitable employment for twice that it appeared on inquiry, had behaved time. For, on a survey, it was found with the utmost civility to the mas that the mainmast was sprung at the ter, and had refused to accept a calf upper woulding, ¹ though it was which the master would have forced thought capable of being secured by on him as a present, yet the Governor a couple of fishes ; but the foremast took great offence at our sending our was reported to be unfit for service, boat, and talked of it in a high strain, and thereupon the carpenters were as a violation of the peace subsisting sent into the woods to endeavour to between the Crowns of Great Britain find a stick proper for a foremast. and Portugal. We at first imputed But after a search of four days they this ridiculous blustering to no deeper returned without having been able a cause than Don Jose's insolence ; to meet with any tree fit for the pur but as we found he proceeded so far pose. This obliged them to come to as to charge our officer with behaving a second consultation about the old rudely and opening letters, and par foremast, when it was agreed to en ticularly with an attempt to take out deavour to secure it by casing it with of the vessel by violence the very calf three fishes ; and in this work the which we knew he had refused to re carpenters were employed till within ceive as a present (a circumstance a day or two of our sailing. In the which we were satisfied the Governor meantime, the Commodore, thinking was well acquainted with), we had it necessary to have a clean vessel on hence reason to suspect that he pur our arrival in the South Seas, ordered posely sought this quarrel, and had the Trial to be hove down, as this more important motives for engaging would not occasion any loss of time, in it than the mere captious bias of but might be completed while the his temper. What these motives carpenters were refitting her masts, were, it was not so easy for us to de which was done on shore. termine at that time ; but as we after wards found, by letters which fell into greatest part miserably bad, and our hands in the South Seas, that he The men had despatched an express to Buenos scarce fit to be eaten. throughout the whole squadron began Ayres, where Pizarro then lay, with now to drop off apace with fevers and an account of our squadron's arrival fluxes, occasioned, I believe, by the at St Catherine's, together with the violent heat of the climate, and the most ample and circumstantial intelli bad air ; the country being so very gence of our force and condition, we woody that the air must thereby be thence conjectured that Don Jose had unhealthful. " raised this groundless clamour only to stagnated, and rendered Or " woolding ."" explained in prevent our visiting the brigantine Bailey-" The winding of ropes hard when she should put to sea again, lest about a yard or mast of a ship, after we might there find proofs of his perfi it hath been strengthened by some dious behaviour, and perhaps at the piece of timber nailed thereto. " same time discover the secret of his Young's " Nautical Dictionary," sub smuggling correspondence with his voce,66also suggests the idea of previ neighbouring Governors, and the ous fishing " or repair. Spaniards at Buenos Ayres.
1741. ] FROM ST CATHERINE'S TO THE BAY OF ST JULIAN. 31 It was near a month before the CHAPTER VI. Trial was refitted ; for not only her lower masts were defective, as has been already mentioned, but her IN leaving St Catherine's, we left the main-topmast and foreyard were like last amicable port we proposed to touch wise decayed and rotten. While this at, and were now proceeding to an work was carrying on, the other ships hostile, or at best a desert and inhos of the squadron fixed new standing pitable coast. And as we were to rigging, and set up a sufficient num expect a more boisterous climate to ber of preventer shrouds to each mast the southward than any we had yet to secure them in the most effectual experienced, not only our danger of manner. And in order to render the separation would by this means be ships stiffer, and to enable them to much greater than it had been hither carry more sail abroad, and to prevent to, but other accidents of a more per their labouring in hard gales of wind, nicious nature were likewise to be ap each captain had orders given him to prehended, and as much as possible strike down some of their great guns to be provided against. And there into the hold. These precautions be fore Mr Anson, in appointing the ing complied with, and each ship hav various stations at which the ships of ing taken in as much wood and water the squadron were to rendezvous, had as there was room for, the Trial was at considered that it was possible his last completed, and the whole squad own ship might be disabled from get ron was ready for the sea ; on which ting round Cape Horn, or might be the tents on shore were struck, and all lost ; and had given proper directions the sick were received on board. And that even in that case the expedition here we had a melancholy proof how should not be abandoned . For the much the healthiness of this place had orders delivered to the captains the beenoverrated by formerwriters, for we day before we sailed from St Cather found that though the Centurion alone ine's, were, that in case of separation had buried no less than twenty-eight which they were with the utmost men since our arrival, yet the number care to endeavour to avoid-the first of our sick was in the same interval place of rendezvous should be the Bay increased from eighty to ninety-six. of Port St Julian, describing the place And now our crews being embarked, from Sir John Narborough's account and everything prepared for our de of it. There they were to supply parture, the Commodore made a signal themselves with as much salt as they for all captains, and delivered them could take in, both for their own use their orders, containing the succes and the use of the squadron ; and if, sive places of rendezvous from hence after a stay there of ten days, they to the coast of China.1 And then were not joined by the Commodore, on the next day, being the 18th of they were then to proceed through January 1741, the signal was made Straits le Maire round Cape Horn into for weighing, and the squadron put the South Seas, where the next place to sea, leaving without regret this of rendezvous was to be the Island of Island of St Catherine's, where we Nuestra Señora del Socoro, 2 in the had been so extremely disappointed Latitude of 45° S. , and Longitude in our refreshments, in our accommo from the Lizard, 71° 12′ W. They dations, and in the humane and were to bring this island to bear ENE., friendly offices which we had been and to cruise from five to twelve taught to expect in a place which has leagues distance from it, as long as been so much celebrated for its hospi their store of wood and water would tality, freedom, and conveniency. permit, both which they were to ex
2 One of the smaller outer islands 1 Ed. 1776 : " Chili ; " an obvious blunder, as the opening paragraph of of the Chonos Archipelago, on the western coast of Patagonia. Chapter VI. shows.
32
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. I. CH. VI. pend with the utmost frugality. And the distance of two ships ' lengths, so when they were under an absolute that the whole squadron disappeared.¹ necessity of a fresh supply, they were On this a signal was made by firing to stand in, and endeavour to find guns, to bring to with the larboard out an anchoring-place ; and in case tacks, the wind being then due east. they could not, and the weather made We ourselves immediately handed the it dangerous to supply their ships by topsails, bunted the mainsail, and standing offand on, they were then to lay to under a reefed mizzen till noon, make the best of their way to the when the fog dispersed ; and we soon Island ofJuan Fernandez, in the Lati- discovered all the ships of the squad tude of 33° 37' S. And as soon as ron, except the Pearl, which did not they had recruited their wood and join us till near a month afterwards. water, they were to continue cruising The Trial sloop was a great way to off the anchoring-place of that island leeward, having lost her mainmast in for fifty-six days, in which time, if this squall, and having been obliged, they were not joined by the Commo- for fear of bilging, to cut away the dore, they might conclude that some raft.2 We bore down with the accident had befallen him ; and they squadron to her relief, and the Glou were forthwith to put themselves cester was ordered to take her in tow, under the command of the senior for the weather did not entirely abate officer, who was to use his utmost till the day after, and even then a endeavours to annoy the enemy both great swell continued from the east by sea and land. That with these ward in consequence of the preceding views their new Commodore was to storm. After this accident we stood continue in those seas as long as his to the southward with little interrup provisions lasted, or as long as they tion, and here we experienced the were recruited by what he should take same setting of the current which we from the enemy, reserving only a suf- had observed before our arrival at St ficient quantity to carry him and the Catherine's, that is, we generally found ships under his command to Macao ourselves to the southward of our at the entrance of the River Tigris, reckoning by about twenty miles each near Canton on the coast of China, day. This error continued, with a where, having supplied himself with little variation, till we had passed a new stock of provisions, he was the Latitude of the River of Plate ; thence without delay to make the best and even then we found that the same of his way to England. And as it current, however difficult to be ac was found impossible as yet to unload counted for, did yet undoubtedly take our victualler, the Anna pink, the place, for we were not satisfied in de Commodore gave the master of her the ducing it from the error in our reck same rendezvous, and the same orders oning, but we actually tried it more to put himself under the command of than once when a calm made it prac ticable. the remaining senior officer. Under these orders the squadron When we had passed the Latitude sailed from St Catherine's on Sunday of the River of Plate we had sound the 18th of January, as has been ings all along the coast of Patagonia. already mentioned in the preceding These soundings, when well ascertain Chapter. The next day we had very ed, being of great use in determining squally weather, attended with rain, the position of the ship, and we having lightning, and thunder ; but it soon tried them more frequently in greater became fair again, with light breezes, depths, and with more attention than and continued thus till Wednesday I believe had been done before us, I evening, when it blew fresh again ; 1 That is, was lost sight of by the and increasing all night, by eight the next morning it became a most vio Centurion, or board of which the lent storm, and we had with it so thick Narrator sailed . 2 Ed. 1776 : " The wreck." a fog that it was impossible to see at
1711.1 THE COAST OF PATAGONIA. 33 shall recite our observations as suc Weighing again at five the next cinctly as I can . In the Latitude of morning, we an hour afterwards dis 36° 52′ we had sixty fathoms ofwater, covered a sail, upon which the Severn with a bottom of fine black and grey and Gloucester were both directed to sand ; from thence to 39° 55′ we give chase ; but we soon perceived it varied our depths from fifty to eighty to be the Pearl, which separated from fathoms, though we had constantly us a few days after we left St Cather the same bottom as before ; between ine's ; and on this we made a signal the last-mentioned Latitude and 43° for the Severn to rejoin the squadron , 16' we had only fine grey sand, with leaving the Gloucesteralone in the pur the same variation of depths, except suit. And now we were surprised to that we once or twice lessened our see that, on the Gloucester's approach, water to forty fathoms. After this the people on board the Pearl increased we continued in forty fathoms for their sail and stood from her. How about half a degree, having a bottom ever, the Gloucester came up with of coarse sand and broken shells, at them, but found them with theirham which time we were in sight of land, mocks in their nettings, and every and not above seven leagues from it. thing ready for an engagement. At As we edged from the land we met two in the afternoon the Pearl joined with variety of soundings ; first black us, and running up under our stern, sand, then muddy, and soon after Lieutenant Salt hailed the Commo rough ground with stones ; but then dore, and acquainted him that Cap increasing our water to forty-eight tain Kidd died on the 31st ofJanuary. fathoms we had a muddy bottom to He likewise informed him that he had the Latitude of 46° 10′ . We then re seen five large ships on the 10th in turned again into thirty-six fathoms, stant, which he for some time ima and kept shoaling our water, till at gined to be our squadron : that he length we came into twelve fathoms, suffered the commanding ship, which having constantly small stones and wore a red broad pennant exactly re pebbles at the bottom. Part of this sembling thatoftheCommodore, atthe time we had a view of Cape Blanco, main-topmast head, to come within which lies in about the Latitude of gun-shot of him before he discovered 46° 52', and Longitude W. from Lon his mistake ; but then, finding it not don 66° 43′. This is the most remark to be the Centurion, he hauled close able land upon the coast. Steering upon the wind, and crowded from from hence S. by E. nearly, we, in a them with all his 1sail, and standing run of about thirty leagues, deepened across a rippling, where they hesi our water to fifty fathoms without tated tofollowhim, he happily escaped. once altering the bottom ; and then He made them [out] to be five Spanish drawing towards the shore with a men-of-war, one of them exceedingly SW. course, varying rather to the like the Gloucester, which was the westward, we had everywhere a sandy occasion of his apprehensions when bottom, till our coming into thirty the Gloucester chased him. By their fathoms, where we had again a sight appearance he thought they consisted of land distant from us about eight of two ships of 70 guns, two of 50, leagues, lying in the Latitude of 48° and one of 40 guns. The whole squad 31'. We made this land on the 17th ron continued in chase of him all that of February, and at five in the after day, but at night, finding they could noon we came to an anchor upon the not get near him, they gave over the same bottom in the Latitude of 48° chase, and directed their course to the 58', the southernmost land then in southward. And now, had it not been for the view bearing SSW. , the northernmost N. half E., a small island NW. , and the westernmost hummock WSW. In 1 A broken piece of water, duc to a this station we found the tide to set current, a violent tide, or some other S. by W. perturbing cause. с
34 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. I. CH. VI. necessity we were under of refitting much uneasiness at that time on ac the Trial, this piece of intelligence count of the delay it occasioned, was would have prevented our making any in all probability the means of pre stay at St Julian ; but as it was impos- serving the sloop and all her crew : sible for that sloop to proceed round for before this her masts, how well the Cape in her present condition, soever proportioned to a better cli some stay there was inevitable ; and mate, were much too lofty for these therefore the same evening we came to high southern latitudes ; so that had an anchor again in twenty-fivefathoms they weathered the preceding storm, water, the bottom a mixture of mud it would have been impossible for and sand, and the high hummock them to have stood against those seas bearing SW. by W. And weighing and tempests we afterwards encoun at nine in the morning, we soon after tered in passing round Cape Horn ; sent the two cutters belonging to the and the loss of masts in that boister Centurion and Severn in shore to dis- ous climate would scarcely have been cover the harbour of St Julian, while attended with less than the loss of the ships kept standing along the the vessel and of every man on board coast at about the distance of a league her, since it would have been imprac from the land. At 6 o'clock we ticable for the other ships to have anchored in the Bay of St Julian, ¹ in given them any relief during the con nineteen fathoms, the bottom muddy tinuance of those impetuous storms. ground with sand, the northernmost While we stayed at this place, the land in sight bearing N. and by E. , Commodore appointed the Honour the southernmost S. half E. , and the able Captain Murray to succeed to high hummock-to which Sir John the Pearl, and Captain Cheap to the Narborough formerly gave the name Wager ; and he promoted Mr Charles ofWood's Mount- WSW. Soon after Saunders, his first lieutenant, to the the cutters returned on board, having command of the Trial sloop. But discovered the harbour, which did Captain Saunders lying dangerously not appear to us in our situation, the ill of a fever on board the Centurion, northernmost point shutting in upon and it being the opinion of the sur the southernmost, and in appearance geons that the removing him on board his own ship in his present condition closing the entrance. Being come to an anchor in this might tend to the hazard of his life, bay of St Julian, principally with a Mr Anson gave an order to Mr Sau view of refitting the Trial, the car marez, first lieutenant of the Cen penters were immediately employed turion, to act as master and com in that business, and continued so mander of the Trial during the illness during our whole stay at the place. of Captain Saunders. Here the Com The Trial's mainmast having been modore, too, in order to ease the ex carried away about twelve feet below pedition of all unnecessary expense, the cap, they contrived to make the held a further consultation with his remaining part of the mast serve captains about unloading and dis again ; and the Wager was ordered charging the Anna pink ; but they to supply her with a spare main-top- represented to him that they were so mast, which the carpenters converted far from being in a condition of taking into a new foremast. And I cannot any part of her loading on board, that help observing, that this accident to they had still great quantities of pro the Trial's mast, which gave us so visions in the way of their guns be tween decks, and that their ships 2 1 So called by Drake. It was the were withal so very deep that they were not fit for action without being scene Doughty's trial and execu tion ; of 66' whence," Thomas says, "" a cleared. This put the Commodore small island within the harbour is to under a necessity of retaining the this day"" called the Island of True Justice. 2 Ed. 1776 : " And so lumbered. "
IN THE BAY 1741. ] pink in the service ; and as it was apprehended we should certainly meet with the Spanish squadron in passing the Cape, Mr Anson thought it ad visable to give orders to the captains to put all their provisions which were in the way of their guns on board the Anna pink, and to remount such of their guns as had formerly, for the ease of their ships, been ordered into the hold.1 We, on our first arrival [at St Julian 2 ] sent an officer on shore to a salt pond, in order to procure a quan tity of salt for the use of the squadron ; SirJohn Narborough having observed, when he was here, that the salt pro duced in that place was very white and good, and that in February there was enough of it to fill a thousand ships. But our officer returned with a sample which was very bad, and he told us that even of this there was but little to be got ; I suppose the 1 Thomas naïvely remarks with re ference to their stay in the Bay of St Julian : " Sir John Narborough and some others write that they have often seen and conversed with the inhabi tants in this and other parts of Pata gonia, and have given wonderful de scriptions of them; but as we saw none of them, I have nothing to say of that sort, nor indeed do I think there is anything in this wild part of the world worthy of the least notice. " 2 The district round Port St Julian is described as destitute of wood, Sir John Narborough, in the time of Charles the Second, making the sweeping assertion that he never saw a stick of wood in the country large enough to make the handle of a hatchet. It is, however, good pas ture land, feeding immense herds of cattle, of which many thousands are annually slain by the hunters there for the hides and tallow alone. The method of taking them alive is by the lasso, in the use of which the native Indians and Spaniards are very dexterous. The plains also abound with wild horses and Peru vian sheep. The lengthy account of the above is here omitted.
35 OF ST JULIAN. weather had been more rainy than ordinary, and had destroyed it.³
CHAPTER VII. THE Trial being nearly refitted, which was our principal occupation at this Bay of St Julian, and the sole occa sion of our stay, the Commodore thought it necessary, as we were now directly bound for the South Seas and the enemy's coasts, to regulate the plan of his future operations. And therefore, on the 24th of February, a signal was made for all captains, and a council of war was held on board the Centurion, at which were present the Honourable Edward Legg, Captain Matthew Mitchel, the Honourable George Murray, Captain David Cheap, together with Colonel Mordaunt Cra cherode, commander ofthe land forces. At this council Mr Anson proposed that their first attempt, after their arrival in the South Seas, should be the attack of the town and harbour of Baldivia, the principal frontier [place] of the district of Chili ; Mr Anson 4 informing them, at the same time, 3 Ed. 1776 : " Or prevented its fer mentation . " Thomas adds some par ticulars of interest with regard to the doings at St Julian : " Having lost the hopes of a supply of water here, we were put to the allowance of one quart a man for one day, and three pints for another, alternately ; but, considering our passage had hitherto proved extremely stormy and cold, and a dead time of the year coming on very fast, it was thought proper, in order to keep the people in as good heart as possible, to give them whole allowance of all other provisions, which was ordered accordingly. Here we further secured our lower deck guns, by nailing quoins under the trucks, in case the tackles, breechings, or iron-work, might give way, or fail in the stormy weather""which we had much reason to expect. ' 4 Ed . 1776 : " As an inducement for this enterprise. "
36 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B.I.CH. VII. that it was an article contained in his | day the 27th of February, at seven in Majesty's instructions to him, to en the morning, and stood to sea ; the deavour to secure some port in the Gloucester indeed found a difficulty South Seas where the ships of the in purchasing her anchor, and was squadron might be careened and re left a considerable way astern, so that fitted. To this proposition made by in the night we fired several guns as the Commodore, the council unani a signal to her captain to make sail, mously and readily agreed ; and in but he did not come up to us till the consequence of this resolution new next morning, when we found that instructions were given to the captains they had been obliged to cut their of the squadron, by which, though cable and leave their best bower be they were still directed, in case of hind them. At ten in the morning, separation, to make the best of their the day after our departure, Wood's way to the Island of Nuestra Señora Mount, the high land over St Julian, del Socoro, yet (notwithstanding the bore from us N. by W. , distant ten orders they had formerly given them leagues, and we had fifty- two fathoms at St Catherine's) they were to cruise of water. And now, standing to the off that island only ten days ; from southward, we had great expectation whence, if not joined by the Commo of falling in with Pizarro's squadron ; dore, they were to proceed and cruise for during our stay at Port St Julian off the harbour of Baldivia, making there had generally been hard_gales the land between the Latitudes of 40 between the WNW. and SW., so and 40° 30′, and taking care to keep that we had reason to conclude the to the southward of the port ; and if Spaniards had gained no ground upon in fourteen days they were not joined us in that interval. And it was the by the rest of the squadron, they were prospect of meeting with them that then to quit this station, and to direct had occasioned our Commodore to be their course to the Island of Juan so very solicitous to prevent the sepa Fernandez, after which they were to ration of our ships ; for had we been regulate their further proceedings by solely intent on getting round Cape their former orders. The same direc Horn in the shortest time, the proper tions were also given to the master of est method for this purpose would the Anna pink, and he was particu have been to have ordered each ship larly instructed to be very careful in to have made the best of her way to answering the signals made by any the rendezvous, without waiting for ship of the squadron, and likewise to the rest. destroy his papers and orders if he From our departure from St Julian should be so unfortunate as to fall to the 4th of March we had little into the hands of the enemy. And wind, with thick, hazy weather and as the separation of the squadron some rain ; and our soundings were might prove of the utmost prejudice generally from forty to fifty fathoms, to his Majesty's service, each captain with a bottom of black and grey sand, was ordered to give it in charge to sometimes intermixed with pebble the respective officers of the watch stones. On the 4th of March we not to keep their ship at a greater were in sight of Cape Virgin Mary, distance from the Centurion than two and not more than six or seven leagues miles, as they would answer it at distant from it. This is the northern their peril ; and if any captain should cape of the Straits of Magellan ; it find his ship beyond the distance lies in the Latitude of 52° 21 ′ S. , and specified, he was to acquaint the Longitude from London 71° 44′ W., Commodore with the name of the and seems to be a low, flat land, end officer who had thus neglected his ing in a point. Off this cape our duty. depth of water was from thirty-five These necessary regulations being to forty-eight fathoms. The after established, and the Trial sloop com noon of this day was very bright and pleted, the squadron weighed on Fri clear, with small breezes of wind, in
ENTRANCE TO STRAITS LE MAIRE. 37 1741.] clinable to a calm ; and most of the this shore 2 all day, having soundings captains took the opportunity of this from forty to fifty fathoms, with stones favourable weather to pay a visit to and gravel. And as we intended to the Commodore ; but while they were pass through Straits Le Maire next in company together, they were all day, we lay to at night that we might greatly alarmed by a sudden flame, not overshoot them, and took this which burst out on board the Glou opportunity to prepare ourselves for cester, and which was succeeded by a the tempestuous climate we were cloud of smoke. However, they were soon to be engaged in ; with which soon relieved from their apprehensions view we employed ourselves good part by receiving information that the blast of the night in bending an entire new was occasioned by a spark of fire from suit of sails to the yards. At four the forge, lighting on some gunpow the next morning, being the 7th of der and other combustibles which an March, we made sail, and at eight officer on board was preparing for use saw the land ; and soon after we be in case we should fall in with the gan to open the straits, at which time Spanish fleet ; and that it had been Cape St James bore from us ESE. , extinguished without any damage to Cape St Vincent SE. half E. , the middlemost of the Three Brothers the ship. Wehere found, what was constantly S. by W. , Montegorda S. , and Cape St verified by all our observations in Bartholomew, which is the southern these high [southern ] latitudes, that most point of Staten Land, ESE. fair weather was always of an exceed Though Tierra del Fuego had an ing short duration, and that when it aspect extremely barren and desolate, was remarkably fine it was a certain yet this Island of Staten Land far presage of a succeeding storm ; for surpasses it in the wildness and horror the calm and sunshine of our after of its appearance ; it seeming to be noon ended in a most turbulent night, entirely composed of inaccessible the wind freshening from the SW. as rocks, without the least mixture of the night came on, and increasing its earth or mould between them. These violence continually till nine in the rocks terminate in a vast number of inorning the next day, when it blew ragged points, which spire up to a so hard that we were obliged to bring prodigious height, and are all of them to with the squadron, and to continue covered with everlasting snow ; the under a reefed mizzen till eleven at points themselves are on every side night, having in that time from forty surrounded with frightful precipices, three to fifty-seven fathoms water, and often overhang in a most aston with black sand and gravel ; and by ishing manner ; and the hills which an observation we had at noon, we bear them are generally separated concluded a current had set us twelve from each other by narrow clefts, miles to the southward of our reckon which appear as if the country had ing. Towards midnight, the wind been rent by earthquakes ; for these abating, we made sail again ; and chasms are nearly perpendicular, and steering south, we discovered in the extend through the substance of the morning for the first time the land main rocks, almost to their very called Tierra del Fuego, stretching bottoms ; so that nothing can be from the S. by W. to the SE. half E. imagined more savage and gloomy This indeed afforded us but a very than the whole aspect of this coast. I have above mentioned, that on uncomfortable prospect, it appearing ofa stupendous height, covered every the 7th of March, in the morning, we where with snow. We steered along opened Straits Le Maire ; and soon 1 "So that the whole, "says Thomas, is to be seen in any other part of the "1 may not improperly be termed the habitable earth. " 2 Ed. 1776 : " This uncouth and Land of Desolation ; and I much question whether a more dreary aspect | rugged coast. ”
38 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. I. CH. VIII . after, or about 10 o'clock, the Pearl serenity of the sky was suddenly and the Trial being ordered to keep changed, and gave us all the presages ahead of the squadron, we entered of an impending storm ; and imme them with fair weather and a brisk diately the wind shifted to the south gale, and were hurried through by ward, and blew in such violent squalls, the rapidity of the tide in about two that we were obliged to hand our top hours though they are between seven sails and reef our mainsail. The tide, and eight leagues in length. As these too, which had hitherto favoured us, Straits are often considered as the now turned against us, ¹ and drove us boundary between the Atlantic and to the eastward with prodigious rapid Pacific Oceans, and as we presumed ity, so that we were in great anxiety we had nothing now before us but for the Wager and the Anna pink, the an open sea, till we arrived on those two sternmost vessels, fearing they opulent coasts where all our hopes would be dashed to pieces against the and wishes centred, we could not shore of Staten Land. Nor were our help flattering ourselves that the apprehensions without foundation, for greatest difficulty of our passage was it was with the utmost difficulty they now at an end, and that our most escaped. And now the whole squad sanguine dreams were upon the point ron, instead ofpursuing their intended of being realised ; and hence we in course to the SW., were driven to the dulged our imaginations in those eastward by the united force of the romantic schemes which the fancied storm and of the currents ; so that possession of the Chilian gold and next day in the morning we found Peruvian silver might be conceived ourselves near seven leagues to the to inspire. These joyous ideas were eastward of Staten Land, which then heightened by the brightness of the bore from us NW. The violence of sky, and the serenity of the weather, the current, which had set us with so which was indeed most remarkably much precipitation to the eastward, pleasing ; for though the winter was together with the force and constancy now advancing apace, yet the morn of the westerly winds, soon taught us ing of this day, in its brilliancy and to consider the doubling of Cape Horn mildness, gave place to none we had as an enterprise that might prove too seen since our departure from Eng mighty for our efforts ; though some land. Thus animated by these delu amongst us had lately treated the sions, we traversed these memorable difficulties whichformer voyagers were Straits, ignorant of the dreadful | said to have met with in this under calamities that were then impending, taking as little better than chimerical, and just ready to break upon us ; and had supposed them to arise rather ignorant that the time drew near from timidity and unskilfulness than when the squadron would be sepa from the real embarrassments of the rated never to unite again ; and that winds and seas. But we were severely this day of our passage was the last convinced that these censures were rash cheerful day that the greatest part of and ill-grounded : for the distresses us would ever live to enjoy. with which we struggled during the three succeeding months will not easily be paralleled in the relation of any former naval expedition. This CHAPTER VIII. will, I doubt not, be readily allowed by those who shall carefully peruse WE had scarcely reached the southern the ensuing narration. From the storm which came on extremity of the Straits of Le Maire, when our flattering hopes were in before we had well got clear of Straits stantly lost in the apprehensions of Le Maire, we had a continual succes immediate destruction. For before the sternmost ships of the squad 1 Ed. 1776 : " Turned furiously ad ron were clear of the Straits, the verse. 22
A VIOLENT STORM. 39 1741.1 sion of such tempestuous weather as the 18th, we had again strong gales surprised the oldest and most experi of wind with extreme cold, and at enced mariners on board, and obliged midnight the main-topsail split, and them to confess, that what they had one of the straps of the main dead hitherto called storms were inconsid eyes broke. From hence to the 23d erable gales compared with the vio the weather was more favourable, lence of these winds, which raised though often intermixed with rain such short and at the same time such and sleet, and some hard gales : but mountainous waves as greatly sur as the waves did not subside, the ship, passed in danger all seas known in by labouring in this lofty sea, was now any other part of the globe. And it grown so loose in her upper works was not without great reason that this that she let in the water at every unusual appearance filled us with con seam ; so that every part within board tinual terror ; for had any one of these was constantly exposed to the sea waves broke fairly over us, it must water, and scarcely any of the officers in all probability have sent us to the ever lay in dry beds. Indeed it was bottom . Nor did we escape with very rare that two nights ever passed terror only ; for the ship, rolling in without many of them being driven cessantly gunwale-to, gave us such from their beds by the deluge of water quick and violent motions, that the that came upon them. On the 23d we had a most violent men were in perpetual danger of being dashed to pieces against the decks or storm of wind, hail, and rain, with a sides of the ship. And though we very great sea ; and though we handed were extremely careful to' secure our the main-topsail before the height of selves from these shocks by grasping the squall, yet we found the yard some fixed body, yet many of our sprung ; and soon after, the foot-ropo people were forced from their hold, of the mainsail breaking, the mainsail some of whom were killed , and others itself split instantly to rags, and in greatly injured ; in particular, one of spite of our endeavours to save it, our best seamen was canted overboard much the greater part of it was blown and drowned, another dislocated his overboard. On this the Commodore neck, a third was thrown into the made the signal for the squadron to mainhold and broke his thigh, and bring to ; and, the storm at length one of our boatswain's mates broke flattening to a calm, we had an oppor his collar-bone twice ; not to men tunity of getting down our main-top tion many other accidents of the same sail yard to put the carpenters at work kind. upon it, and of repairing our rigging ; It was on the 7th of March, as has after which, having bent a new main been already observed, that we passed sail, we got under sail again with a Straits Le Maire, and were immedi moderate breeze. But in less than ately afterwards driven to the east twenty-four hours we were attacked by ward by a violent storm and the force another storm still more furious than of the current which set that way. the former ; for it proved a perfect hur For the four or five succeeding days ricane, and reduced us to the necessity we had hard gales of wind from the of lying to under our bare poles. As same quarter, with a most prodigious our ship kept the wind better than any swell ; so that though we stood, dur of the rest, we were obliged in the ing all that time, towards the SW. , afternoon to wear ship, in order to yet we had no reason to imagine we join the squadron to the leeward, had made any way to the westward. which otherwise we should have been In this interval we had frequentsqualls in danger of losing in the night ; and of rain and snow, and shipped great as we dared not venture any sail quantities of water ; after which for abroad, we were obliged to make use three or four days, though the seas of an expedient which answered our ran mountains high, yet the weather purpose ; this was putting the helm a was rather more moderate. But, on weather, and manning thefore-shrouds.
40 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. CH. VIII . But though this method proved suc ordered several carpenters to be put on cessful for the end intended, yet in board the Gloucester from the other the execution of it one of our ablest ships of the squadron, in order to seamen was canted overboard ; and repair her damage with the utmost notwithstanding the prodigious agita expedition. And the captain of the tion of the waves, we perceived that he Trial complaining at the same time swam very strong, and it was with the that his pumps were so bad, and the utmost concern that we found our sloop made so great a quantity of selves incapable of assisting him ; and water, that he was scarcely able to we were the more grieved at his un keep her free, the Commodore ordered happy fate, since we lost sight of him him a pump ready fitted from his own struggling with the waves, and con ship. It was very fortunate for the ceived from the manner in which he Gloucester and the Trial that the swam that he might continue sen weather proved more favourable this sible for a considerable time longer of day than for many days both before the horror attending his irretrievable and after ; since by this means they were enabled to receive the assistance situation.¹ Before this last-mentioned storm which seemed essential to their preser was quite abated, we found two of our vation, and which they could scarcely main shrouds and one mizzen-shroud have had at any other time, as it would broken, all which we knotted and set have been extremely hazardous to have up immediately ; and from hence we ventured a boat on board. 2 had an interval of three or four days The next day, that is, on the 1st of less tempestuous than usual, but ac April, the weather returned again to companied with a thick fog, in which its customary bias, the sky looked dark we were obliged to fire guns almost and gloomy, and the wind began to every half hour, to keep our squadron together. On the 31st we were alarmed 2 Under this date, March 31st, An by a gun fired from the Gloucester, son's Official Report of his voyage and a signal made by her to speak makes the first mention of the scurvy : with the Commodore. We immedi " Men falling down every day with ately bore down to her, and were pre scorbutic complaints. " Thomas also pared to hear of some terrible disaster ; now notes, with some graphic details, but we were apprised of it before we the outbreak of the scurvy, which Mir joined her, for we saw that her main Walter, with a sad want of dramatic yard was broke in the slings. This instinct, defers to a period of compara was a grievous misfortune to us all at tively trivial elemental peril : And this juncture ; as it was obvious it now, as it were to add the finishing would prove an hindrance to our sail stroke to our misfortunes, our people ing, and would detain us the longer began to be universally afflicted with in these inhospitable latitudes. But that most terrible, obstinate, and, at our future success and safety were not sea, incurabledisease, the scurvy, which to be promoted by repining, but by quickly made a most dreadful havoc resolution and activity ; and therefore, among us, beginning at first to carry that this unlucky incident might delay off two or three a day, but soon in us as little as possible, the Commodore creasing, and at last carrying off eight or ten ; and as most of the living were With reference to this affecting very ill of the same distemper, and the circumstance, Cowper composed his little remainder who preserved their verses on 66 The Castaway. One is healths better, in a manner quite worn as follows : out with incessant labour, I have some times seen four or five dead bodies, "He long survives, who lives an hour In ocean, self-upheld : some sewn up in their hammocks, And so long he, with unspent power, others not, washing about the decks, His destiny repell'd : for want of help to bury them in the And ever, as the minutes flew, sea. "" Entreated help, or cried- ' Adieu." "
41 DISTRESS OF THE SQUADRON. 1741.] freshen and to blow in squalls ; how- | Gloucester ever since the 31st of March, ever, it was not yet so boisterous as and the weather was now too severe to to prevent our carrying our topsails permit him to return. Nor was the close reefed ; but its appearance was Wager the only ship of the squadron such as plainly prognosticated that a that had suffered in the late tempest ; still severer tempest was at hand. for the next day a signal of distress And accordingly, on the 3d of April, was made by the Anna pink, and, there came on a storm which both in upon speaking with the master, we its violence and continuation (for it learned that they had broken their fore lasted three days) exceeded all that stay and the gammon of the bowsprit, we had hitherto encountered. In its and were in no small danger of having first onset, wereceived a furious shock all the masts come by the board ; so from the sea which broke upon our that we were obliged to bear away un larboard quarter, where it stove in the til they had made all fast, after which • quarter gallery, and rushed into the we hauled upon a wind again. ship like a deluge ; our rigging, too, By the latitude of the land we [next] suffered extremely, for one ofthe straps fell in with, it was agreed to be a part of the main dead-eyes was broke, as of Tierra del Fuego, near the southern was also a mainshroud and futtock outlet described in Frazier's chart of shroud, so that to case the stress upon the Straits of Magellan, and was the masts and shrouds we lowered both supposed to be that point called by our main and fore yards, and furled him Cape Noir. It was indeed most all our sails, and in this posture we wonderful that the currents should lay to for three days, when, the storm have driven us to the eastward with somewhat abating, we ventured to such strength ; for the whole squadron make sail under our courses only. But esteemed themselves upwards of ten even this we could not do long, for degrees more westerly than this land , the next day, which was the 7th, we so that in running down, by our ac had another hard gale of wind, with count, about ninetcen degrees of lon lightning and rain, which obliged us gitude, we had not really advanced to lie to again all night. It was won above half that distance. And now, derful that, notwithstanding the hard instead of having our labours and weather we had endured, no extraor anxieties relieved by approaching a dinary accident had happened to any warmer climate and more tranquil of the squadron since the breaking of seas, we were [ forced ] to steer again the Gloucester's mainyard : but this to the southward, and again to com wonder soon ceased ; ¹ for at three the bat those western blasts which had so next morning several guns were fired often terrified us ; and this, too, when to leeward as signals of distress. And we were weakened by our men falling the Commodore making a signal for sick and dying apace, and when our the squadron to bring to, we at day spirits, dejected by a long continuance break saw the Wager a considerable at sea, and by our late disappointment, way to leeward of any of the other were much less capable of supporting ships ; and we soon perceived that us in the various difficulties which we she had lost her mizzenmast and main could not but expect in this new [and topsail yard. We immediately bore arduous] undertaking. Add to all down to her, and found this disaster this, too, the discouragement we re had arisen from the badness of her ceived bythediminution of thestrength ironwork ; for all the chain-plates to of the squadron ; for three days before windward had given way upon the this we lost sight of the Severn and ship's fetching a deep roll . This proved the Pearl in the morning ; and though the more unfortunate to the Wager, as we spread our ships, and beat about her carpenter had been on board the for some time, yet we never saw them more ; whence we had apprehensions ¹ Ed . 1776 : “ This good fortune now that they too might have fallen in attended no longer us. with this land in the night, and, being
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [B. I. CH. IX. X. 42 less favoured bythe wind and the moon CHAPTER X. than we were, might have run on shore and have perished. Full of these de jected thoughts and gloomy presages, AFTER the mortifying disappointment we stood away to the SW. , prepared of falling in with the coast of Tierra by our late disaster to suspect, that del Fuego, when we esteemed ourselves how large soever an allowance we made ten degrees to the westward of it ; in our westing for the drift ofthe after this disappointment, I say, re eastern current, we might still upon a cited in the eighth Chapter, we stood second trial perhapsfind it insufficient. away to the SW. till the 22d of April, when we were in upwards of 60° S. , and by our account near six degrees to the westward of Cape Noir. And in this we had a series of as favourable run CHAPTER IX.¹ weather as could well be expected in THE improper season of the year in that part of the world, even in a which we attempted to double Cape better season ; so that this interval, Horn, and to which is to be imputed setting the inquietude of our thoughts the disappointment recited in the aside, was by far the most eligible of foregoing Chapter in falling in with any we enjoyed from Straits Le Maire Tierra del Fuego, when we reckoned to the west coast of America. This ourselves at least a hundred leagues moderate weather continued with to the westward of that whole coast, little variation till the 24th ; but on and consequently well advanced into the 24th in the evening the wind the Pacific Ocean ; this unseasonable began to blow fresh, and soon in navigation, I say, to which we were creased to a prodigious storm ; and necessitated by our too late departure the weather being extremely thick, from England, was the fatal source of about midnight we lost sight of the all the misfortunes we afterwards en other ships of the squadron, which, countered. For from hence proceeded notwithstanding the violence of the the separation of our ships, the de preceding storms, had hitherto kept struction of our people, the ruin of in company with us. Nor was this our project on Baldivia and of all our our sole misfortune ; for the next other views on the Spanish places, morning, endeavouring to hand the and the reduction of our squadron topsails, the clewlines and buntlines from the formidable condition in broke, and, the sheets being half which it passed Straits Le Maire to a flown, every seam in the topsails was couple of shattered, half - manned soon split from top to bottom, and cruisers, and a sloop, so far disabled the main-topsail shook so strongly in that in many climates they scarcely the wind, that it carried away the durst have put to sea. top lantern, and endangered the head of the mast. However, at length some 1 This Chapter, of twenty pages in of the most daring of our men ven the original, is almost entirely devoted tured upon the yard, and cut the sail to " Observations and Directions for away close to the reefs, though with facilitating the Passage of our Future the utmost hazard of their lives. At Cruisers round Cape Horn. " But as the same time, the foretopsail beat its matter is purely technical, and, about the yard with so much fury, however curious as casting light on that it was soon blown to pieces ; and the state of nautical science a century that we might have full employment, and a quarter ago, possesses not the the mainsail blew loose, which obliged smallest popular interest now-a-days, us to lower down the yard to secure the Chapter is omitted, with the ex the sail ; and the fore - yard being ception of one or two introductory likewise lowered, we lay to under a sentences which bear on the actual mizzen. And besides the loss of our narrative. topsails, we had much of our other
43 DEATHS FROM SCURVY ON BOARD. 1741. ] rigging broke, and lost a main stud- | had completed our passage, and had ding-sail boom out of the chains. arrived in the confines of the Southern On the 25th, about noon, the weather Ocean ; and this Ocean being nomi became more moderate, which enabled nated Pacific, from the equability of us to sway up our yards, and to repair, the seasons which are said to prevail in the best manner we could, our there, and the facility and security shattered rigging ; but still we had with which navigation is there carried no sight of the rest of our squadron, on, we doubted not but we should be nor indeed were we joined by any of speedily cheered with the moderate them again till after our arrival at gales, the smooth water, and the Juan Fernandez, nor did any two of temperate air, for which that tract of them, as we have since learned, con the globe has been so renowned. And tinue in company together. And this under the influence of these pleasing total separation was the more wonder circumstances we hoped to experience ful, as we had hitherto kept together some kind of compensation for the for seven weeks, through all the re complicated miseries which had so iterated tempests of this turbulent constantly attended us for the last climate. It must indeed be owned eight weeks. But here we were again that this separation gave us room to disappointed ; for in the succeeding expect that we might make our pas month of May our sufferings rose to sage in a shorter time than if we had a much higher pitch than they had continued together, because we could ever yet done, whether we consider now make the best of our way without the violence of the storms, the shat being retarded by the misfortunes of tering of our sails and rigging, or the the other ships ; but then we had diminishing and weakening of our the melancholy reflection that we crew by deaths and sickness, and the ourselves were hereby deprived of the probable prospect of our total destruc assistance of others, and our safety tion. All this will be sufficiently would depend upon our single ship. evident from the following circum So that, if a plank started, or any stantial account of our diversified other accident of the same nature misfortunes. should take place, we must all irre Soon after our passing Straits Le coverably perish ; or, should we be Maire, the scurvy began to make its driven on shore, we had the uncom appearance amongst us ; and our long fortable prospect of ending our days continuance at sea, the fatigue we on some desolate coast, without any underwent, and the various disap reasonable hope of ever getting away; pointments we met with, had occa whereas, with another ship in com sioned its spreading to such a degree, pany, all these calamities are much that at the latter end of April there less formidable, since in every kind were but few on board who were not of danger there would be some proba in some degree afflicted with it ; and bility that one ship at least might in that month no less than forty-three escape, and might be capable of pre died of it on board the Centurion. serving or relieving the crew of the But though we thought that the dis other. temper had then risen to an extra The remaining part of this month ordinary height, and were willing of April we had generally hard gales, to hope that as we advanced to the although we had been every day since northward its malignity would abate ; the 22d edging to the northward ; yet we found, on the contrary, that however, on the last day of the month in the month of May we lost nearly we flattered ourselves with the hopes double that number. And as we did of soon terminating all our sufferings, not get to land till the middle of for we that day found ourselves in June, the mortality went on increas the Latitude of 52° 13', which, being ing, and the disease extended itself so to the northward of the Straits of prodigiously, that after the loss of Magellan, we were assured that we above 200 men we could not at last
44 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. CH . X. muster more than six foremast men of this discase ; for it often produced in a watch capable of duty. putrid fevers, pleurisics, the jaundice, This disease, so frequently attend and violent rheumatic pains, and ing all long voyages, and so particu sometimes it occasioned an obstinate larly destructive to us, is surely the costiveness, which was generally at most singular and unaccountable of tended with a difficulty of breathing ; any that affects the human body. For and this was esteemed the most deadly its symptoms are inconstant and in of all the scorbutic symptoms. At numerable, and its progress and effects other times the whole body, but more extremely irregular ; for scarcely any especially the legs, were subject to two persons have the same complaints, ulcers of the worst kind, attended with and where there has been found some rotten bones, and such a luxuriance conformity in the symptoms the order of fungus flesh, as yielded to no of their appearance has been totally remedy. But a most extraordinary different. However, though it fre circumstance, and what would be quently puts on the form of many scarcely credible upon any single evi other diseases, and is therefore not dence, is, that the scars of wounds to be described by any exclusive and which had been for many years healed infallible criterions ; yet there are were forced open again by this viru some symptoms which are more gene lent distemper. Of this there was a ral than the rest, and, therefore, remarkable instance in one of the occurring the oftenest, deserve a more invalids on board the Centurion, who particular enumeration. These com had been wounded above fifty years mon appearances are large discoloured before at the battle of the Boyne ; for spots dispersed over the whole surface though he was cured soon after, and of the body, swelled legs, putrid gums, had continued well for a great number and above all, an extraordinary lassi of years past, yet, on his being at tude of the whole body, especially tacked by the scurvy, his wounds, in after any exercise however inconsider the progress of his disease, broke out able ; and this lassitude at last de afresh, and appeared as if they had generates into a proneness to swoon 1 never been healed. Nay, what is on the least exertion of strength, or still more astonishing, the callus of a even on the least motion. This broken bone, which had been com disease is likewise usually attended pletely formed for a long time, was with a strange dejection of the spirits, found to be hereby dissolved, and the and with shiverings, tremblings, and fracture seemed as if it had never been a disposition to be seized with the consolidated. Indeed, the effects of most dreadful terrors on the slightest this disease were in almost every in accident. Indeed it was most remark stance wonderful ; for many of our able, in all our reiterated experience people, though confined to their ham of this malady, that whatever dis mocks, appeared to have no incon couraged our people, or at any time siderable share of health, for they damped their hopes, never failed to ate and drank heartily, were cheerful, add new vigour to the distemper ; for and talked with much seeming vigour it usually killed those who were in and with a loud, strong tone of voice ; the last stage of it, and confined those and yet on their being the least moved, to their hammocks who were before though it was only from one part of capable of some kind of duty ; so that the ship to the other, and that in it seemed as if alacrity of mind and their hammocks, they have imme sanguine thoughts were no contempt diately expired ; and others who have ible preservatives from its fatal malig confided in their seeming strength, nity. and have resolved to get out of their But it is not easy to complete the hammocks, have died before they long roll of the various concomitants could well reach the deck ; and it was no uncommon thing for those 1 Ed. 1776 : " And even to die. " who were able to walk the deck, and
GLOOMY PROSPECTS. 45 1741.j to do some kind of duty, to drop down the 8th of May, off the Island of dead in an instant, on any endeavours Socoro, which was the first rendez to act with their utmost vigour, many vous appointed for the squadron, and of our people having perished in this where we hoped to have met with manner during the course of this some of our companions, we cruised Voyage . for them in that station several days. With this terrible disease we strug And here we were not only disap gled the greatest part of the time of pointed in our hopes of being joined our beating round Cape Horn ; and by our friends, and thereby induced to though it did not then rage with its favour the gloomy suggestions of their utmost violence, yet we buried no having all perished ; but we were less than forty-three men on board likewise perpetually alarmed with the the Centurion in the month of April, fears of being driven on shore upon as has been already observed. We this coast, which appeared too craggy still entertained hopes, that when we and irregular to give us the least hopes should have once secured our passage that in such a case any of us could round the Cape, we should put a possibly escape immediate destruc period to this and all the other evils tion. For the land had indeed a which had so constantly pursued us. most tremendous aspect ; the mos But it was our misfortune to find, distant part of it, and which appeared that the Pacific Ocean was to us less far within the country, being the hospitable than the turbulent neigh mountains usually called the Andes bourhood of Tierra del Fuego and or Cordilleras, was extremely high, Cape Horn ; for being arrived, on and covered with snow ; and the coast itself seemed quite rocky and 1 Thomas dwells far more im barren, and the water's edge skirted pressively on this disappointment : with precipices. In some places, in Friday, May 8, at seven in the deed, there appeared several deep bays morning, saw the main land of Pata running into the land, but the en gonia appearing in high mountains trance into them was generallyblocked covered mostly with snow. We like- up by numbers of little islands ; and wise saw several islands, one of which though it was not improbable but we took to be the Island del Soccoro, there might be convenient shelter in BO called by Sir John Narborough, in some of those bays, and proper chan his account of his voyage into those nels leading thereto ; yet, as we were parts ; and from the fine description utterly ignorant of the coast, had we this gentleman had given of this island been driven ashore by the western (having been there in the very height winds which blew almost constantly of summer), this place was appointed there, we did not expect to have for our first general rendezvous in the avoided the loss of our ship and of South Seas. An unhappy appoint- our lives. And this continued peril, which ment it was in its consequences ; for when the people, already reduced to the last extremity, found this to be this coast, the long stay we made here, the place of rendezvous, where they and our hindrance by cross winds, had hoped to meet the rest of their which we should have avoided in a companions with joy, and what a direct course to Juan Fernandez, lost miserable part of the world it ap us at least sixty or seventy of as stout peared to be, their grief gave way to and able men as any in the navy. despair ; they saw no end of their This unspeakable distress was still sufferings, nor any door open to their aggravated by the difficulties we found safety. Those who had hitherto been in working the ship, as the scurvy well and in heart, now full of despon had by this time destroyed no less dency, fell down, sickened, and died ; than 200 of our men, and had in and, to sum up this melancholy part, some "degree affected almost the whole I verily believe, that our touching on crew .
46 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. I. CH. X. lasted for above a fortnight, was prodigious a shock, that several of our greatly aggravated by the difficulties shrouds broke with the jerk, by which we found in working the ship ; as the our masts were greatly endangered ; scurvy had by this time destroyed so our ballast and stores, too, were so great a part of our hands, and had in strangely shifted, that the ship heeled some degree affected almost the whole afterwards two streaks to port. Indeed , crew.1 Nor did we, as we hoped, it was a most tremendous blow, and find the winds less violent as we ad- we were thrown into the utmost con vanced to the northward ; for we had sternation from the apprehension of often prodigious squalls, which split instantly foundering ; and though the our sails, greatly damaged our rigging, wind abated in a few hours, yet, as we and endangered our masts. Indeed, had no more sails left in a condition during the greatest part of the time to bend to our yards, the ship laboured we were upon this coast, the wind very much in a hollow sea, rolling blew so hard, that in another situa- gunwale-to, for want of sail to steady tion where we had sufficient sea-room her so that we expected our masts, we should certainly have lain to ; but which were now very slenderly sup in the present exigency we were ne- ported, to come by the board every cessitated to carry both our courses moment. However, we exerted our and topsails, in order to keep clear of selves the best we could to stirrup our this lee-shore. In one of these squalls, shrouds, to reeve new halyards, and which was attended by several violent to mend our sails ; but while these claps of thunder, a sudden flash of necessary operations were carrying on, fire darted along our decks, which, we ran great risk of being driven on dividing, explodel with a report like shore on the Island of Chiloe, which that of several pistols, and wounded was not far distant from us ; but in many of our men and officers as it the midst of our peril the wind happily passed, marking them in different shifted to the southward, and we parts of the body. This flame was steered off the land with the mainsail attended with a strong sulphurous only, the master and myself undertak stench, and was doubtless of the same ing the management of the helm, while nature with the larger and more vio- every one else on board was busied in lent blasts of lightning which then securing the masts, and bending the filled the air. sails as fast as they could be repaired. It were endless to recite minutely This was the last effort of that stormy the various disasters, fatigues, and climate ; for in a day or two after we terrors which we encountered on this got clear of the land, and found the coast ; all these went on increasing weather more moderate than we had till the 22d of May, at which time the yet experienced since our passing fury of all the storms which we had Straits Le Maire. And now having hitherto encountered seemed to be cruised in vain for more than a fort combined, and to have conspired our night in quest of the other ships of destruction. In this hurricane almost the squadron, it was resolved to take all our sails were split, and great part advantage of the present_favourable of our standing rigging broken ; and, season, and the offingwehad madefrom about eight in the evening, a moun this terrible coast, and to make the tainous overgrown sea took us upon best of our way for the Island of Juan our starboard quarter, and gave us so Fernandez. For though our next ren dezvous was appointed off the harbour 1 Auson himself writes in his Offi of Baldivia, yet as we had hitherto cial Report, under date May 8th, that seen none of our companions at this he " had not men able to keep the first rendezvous, it was not to be sup deck sufficient to take in a topsail, posed that any of them would be found all being violently afflicted with the at the second ; indeed, we had the scurvy, and every day lessening our greatest reason to suspect that all but number by six, cight, or ten." ourselves had perished. Besides, we
EXTREME DISTRESS OF THE CREW. 47 1741.] were by this time reduced to so low a | being doubtless a part of the Cordil condition, that, instead of attempting leras, which are always covered with to attack the places of the enemy, our snow. Though by this view of the utmost hopes could only suggest to us land we ascertained our position, yet the possibility of saving the ship, and it gave us great uneasiness to find that some part of the remaining enfeebled we had so needlessly altered our course crew, by our speedy arrival at Juan when we were, in all probability, just Fernandez ; for this was the only road upon the point of making the island ; in that part of the world where there for the mortality amongst us was now was any probability of our recovering increased to a most dreadful degree, our sick, or refitting our vessel, and and those who remained alive were consequently our getting thither was utterly dispirited by this new disap the only chance we had left to avoid pointment and the prospect of their longer continuance at sea. Our water, perishing at sea. Our deplorable situation, then, al too, began to grow scarce, so that a lowing no room for deliberation, we general dejection prevailed amongst stood for the Island ofJuan Fernandez : us, which added much to the virulence and to save time, which was now ex of the disease, and destroyed numbers tremely precious (our mon dying four, of our best men ; and to all these five, and six in a day), and likewise calamities there was added this vexa to avoid being engaged again with a tious circumstance, that when, after lee-shore, we resolved if possible to having got a sight of the main, we hit the island upon a meridian. And tacked and stood to the westward in on the 28th of May, being nearly in quest of the island, we were so much the parallel upon which it is laid delayed by calms and contrary winds, down, we had great expectations of see that it cost us nine days to regain the ing it ; but not finding it in the posi westing which, when we stood to the tion in which the charts had taught eastward, we ran down in two. In us to expect it, we began to fear that this desponding condition, with a crazy we had got too far to the westward ; ship, a great scarcity of fresh water, and therefore, though the Commodore and a crew so universally diseased that himself was strongly persuaded that there were not above ten foremast men he saw it on the morning of the 28th, in a watch capable of doing duty, and yet his officers believing it to be only even some of these lame, and unable cloud, to which opinion the haziness to go aloft : under these disheartening of the weather gave some kind of coun circumstances, I say, we stood to the tenance, it was on a consultation re westward ; and, on the 9th of June, solved to stand to the eastward in the at daybreak, we at last discovered the parallel of the island ; as it was cer long-wished-for Island of Juan Fer tain that by this course we should nandez. And with this discovery I either fall in with the island, if we shall close this Chapter, and the First were already to the westward of it, Book, after observing (which will fur or should at least make the mainland nish a very strong image of our un of Chili, whence we might take a new paralleled distresses) that by our sus departure, and assure ourselves, by pecting ourselves to beto the westward running to the westward afterwards, of the island on the 28th of May, and, of not missing the island a second in consequence of this, standing in for time. the main, we lost between seventy and On the 30th of May we had a view eighty of our men, whom we should ofthe continent of Chili, distant about doubtless have saved had we made the twelve or thirteen leagues ; the land island that day, which, had we kept made exceeding high and uneven, and on our course for a few hours longer, appeared quite white ; what we saw we could not have failed to have done.
48
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
BOOK CHAPTER I. ON the 9th of June, at daybreak, as is mentioned in the preceding Chap ter, we first descried the Island of Juan Fernandez, bearing N. by E. half E. , at eleven or twelve leagues ' distance. And though, on this view, it appeared to be a mountainous place, extremely ragged and irregular ; yet, as it was land, and the land we sought for, it was to us a most agreeable sight. For at this place only we could hope to put a period to those terrible calamities we had so long struggled with, which had already swept away above half our crew, and which, had we continued a few days longer at sea, would inevitably have completed our destruction. For we were by this time reduced to so help less a condition, that out of 200 and odd men who remained alive, we could not, taking all our watches together, muster hands enough to work the ship on an emergency, though we included the officers, their servants, and the boys. The wind being northerly when we first made the island, we kept plying all that day, and the next night, in order to get in with the land ; and wearing the ship in the middle watch, we had a melancholy instance of the almost incredible debility of our people ; for the lieutenant could mus ter no more than two quarter-masters and six foremast men capable of working ; so that without the assist ance of the officers, servants, and boys, it might have proved impos sible for us to have reached the island after we had got sight of it ; and even with this assistance they were two hours in trimming the sails. To so wretched a condition was a sixty gun ship reduced, which had passed Straits Le Maire but three months before, with between 400 and 500 men, almost all of them in health and vigour.
[B. II . CH. L.
II.
However, on the 10th, in the after noon, we got under the lee of the island, and kept ranging along it at about two miles' distance, in order to look out for the proper anchorage, which was described to be in a bay on the north side. And now, being nearer in with the shore, we could discover that the broken craggy pre cipices, which had appeared so unpro mising at a distance, were far from barren, being in most places covered with woods ; and that between them there were everywhere interspersed the finest valleys, clothed with a most beautiful verdure, and watered with numerous streams and cascades ; no valley, of any extent, being unpro vided of its proper rill. The water, too, as we afterwards found, was not inferior to any we had ever tasted, and was constantly clear ; so that the aspect of this country would at all times have been extremely delightful, but in our distressed situation, lan guishing as we were for the land and its vegetable productions (an inclina tion constantly attending every stage of the sea - scurvy), it is scarcely credible with what eagerness and transport we viewed the shore, and with how much impatience we longed for the greens and other refreshments which were then in sight ; and par ticularly for the water, for of this we had been confined to a very sparing allowance for a considerable time, and had then but five tons remaining on Those only who have en board. dured a long series of thirst, and who can readily recall the desire and agita tion which the ideas alone of springs and brooks have at that time raised in them, can judge of the emotion with which we eyed a large cascade of the most transparent water, which poured itself from a rock near 100 feet high into the sea, at a small distance from the ship. Even those amongst the diseased, who were not in the verylast stages of the distemper,
49 ARRIVAL AT JUAN FERNANDEZ. 1741.] though they had long been confined | up and 'down ; after which, with our to their hammocks, exerted the small utmost efforts, and with many surges remains of strength that were left and some purchases we made use of them, and crawled up to the deck to to increase our power, we found our feast themselves with this reviving selves incapable of starting the anchor prospect. Thus we coasted the shore, from the ground. However, at noon, fully employed in the contemplation as a fresh gale blew towards the bay, of this diversified landscape, which we were induced to set the sails, which still improved upon us the19 farther we fortunately tripped the anchor ; on advanced. But at last the night which we steered along shore till wo closed upon us before we had satisfied came abreast of the point that forms ourselves which was the proper bay the eastern part of the bay. On to anchor in ; and therefore we re- opening the bay, the wind, that had solved to keep in soundings all night befriended us thus far, shifted, and (we having then from sixty - four blew from thence in squalls ; but by to seventy fathoms), and to send our means of the headway we had got, {. boat next morning to discover the we luffed close in, till the anchor road. However, the current shifted brought us up in' fifty-six fathoms.¹ in the night, and set us so near the Soon after we had thus got to our new land, that we were obliged to let go berth, we discovered a sail, which we the best bower in fifty-six fathoms, made no doubt was one of our squad not half-a-mile from the shore. At ron ; and on its nearer approach, we four in the morning the cutter was found it to be the Trial sloop. We despatched with our third lieutenant immediately sent some of our hands to find out the bay we were in search on board her, by whose assistance she of, who returned again at noon with was brought to an anchor between us the boat laden with seals and grass ; and the land. We soon found that for though the island abounded with the sloop had not been exempted from better vegetables, yet the boat's crew, those calamities which we had so in their short stay, had not met with severely felt ; for her commander, them ; and they well knew that even Captain Saunders, waiting on the grass would prove a dainty, and , in- Commodore, informed him, that out deed, it was all soon and eagerly de- ofhis small complement he had buried voured. The seals, too, were con- thirty-four of his men ; and those sidered as fresh provision ; but as yet that remained were so universally were not much admired, though they afflicted with the scurvy, that only grew afterwards into more repute ; himself, his lieutenant, and three for what rendered them less valuable of his men, were able to stand by at this juncture was the prodigious the sails. The Trial came to an anchor within quantity of excellent fish which the people on board had taken during us on the 12th about noon, and we the absence of the boat. carried our hawsers on board her, in The cutter, in this expedition, had order to moor ourselves nearer in discovered the bay where we intended shore ; but the wind, coming off the to anchor, which we found was to land in violent gusts, prevented our the westward of our present station ; mooring in the berth we intended, and the next morning, the weather especially as our principal attention proving favourable, we endeavoured was now employed on business rather to weigh, in order to proceed thither. of more importance. For we wero But though, on this occasion, we mustered all the strength we could, 1 " To our inexpressible joy, " says obliging even the sick, who were Thomas, " having been from St scarce able to keep on their legs, to Catherine's, in the Brazils, to this assist us, yet the capstan was so place 148 days, on such a dreadful weakly manned, that it was near four and fatal a passage, as, I believe, very hours before we hove the cable right few persons ever experienced ." D
50 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. II. CH. I. now extremely occupied in sending many of those who survived recovered on shore materials to raise tents for by very slow and insensible degrees. the reception of the sick, who died Indeed, those who were well enough, apace on board ; and doubtless the at their first getting on shore, to creep distemperwas considerably augmented out of their tents and crawl about, by the stench and filthiness in which were soon relieved , and recovered they lay ; for the number of the dis their health and strength in a very eased was so great, and so few could short time ; but in the rest the disease be spared from the necessary duty of seemed to have acquired a degree of the sails to look after them, that it inveteracy which was altogether with was impossible to avoid a great re out example.¹ The excellence of the climate and laxation in the article of cleanliness, which had rendered the ship extremely the looseness of the soil render this loathsome between decks. But not place extremely proper for all kinds withstanding our desire of freeing the of vegetation ; for if the ground be sick from their hateful situation, and anywhere accidentally turned up it is their own extreme impatience to get immediately overgrown with turnips on shore, we had not hands enough and Sicilian radishes ; and therefore to prepare the tents for their reception Mr Anson having with him garden before the 16th ; but on that and the seeds of all kinds, and stones of dif two following days we sent them all ferent sorts of fruits, he, for the better on shore, amounting to 167 persons, accommodation of his countrymen besides at least a dozen who died in who should hereafter touch here, the boats on their being exposed to sowed both lettuces, carrots, and other the fresh air. The greatest part of garden plants, and set in the woods a our sick were so infirm, that we were great variety of plum, apricot, and obliged to carry them out of the ship peach stones. And these last, he has in their hammocks, and to convey been informed, have since thriven to them afterwards in the same manner a very remarkable degree ; for some from the water-side to their tents, gentlemen, who in their passage from This was a Lima to Old Spain were taken and over a stony beach. work of considerable fatigue to the brought to England, having procured few who were healthy ; and therefore leave to wait upon Mr Anson to thank the Commodore, with his accustomed him for his generosity and humanity humanity, not only assisted herein to his prisoners, some of whom were with his own labour, but obliged their relations, they in casual dis his officers, without distinction, to course with him about his transac give their helping hand. The ex tions in the South Seas, particularly treme weakness of our sick may in asked him if he had not planted a some measure be collected from the great number of fruit-stones on the numbers who died after they had got Island of Juan Fernandez ; for they on shore ; for it had generally been told him their late navigators had found that the land, and the refresh discovered there numbers of peach ments it produces, very soon recover trees and apricot trees, which being most stages of the sea-scurvy ; and fruits before unobserved in that place, we flattered ourselves that those who had not perished on this first exposure 1 The Narrator here goes into a long to the open air, but had lived to be and minute description of Juan Fer placed in their tents, would have nandez, for the advantage of future been speedily restored to their health British cruisers in those seas ; but and vigour. But, to our great mor the island has been described in tification, it was near twenty days Dampier's Voyage (page 158), and the after their landing before the mor Editor has omitted those parts of Mr tality was tolerably ceased ; and for Walter's account which do not bear the first ten or twelve days we buried on the actual proceedings of the rarely less than six each day, and squadron.
THE STAY ON 1741.J they concluded them to be produced | from kernels set by him. The spot where the Commodore pitched his tent, and which he made choice of for his own residence, was a small lawn that lay on a little as cent, at the distance of about half-a mile from the sea.1 In the front of his tent there was a large avenue cut through the woods to the seaside, which sloping to the water, with a gentle descent, opened a prospect of the bay and the ships at anchor. This lawn was screened behind by a tall wood of myrtle sweeping round it in the form of a theatre, the ground on which the wood stood rising with a much sharper ascent than the lawn itself, though not so much but that the hills and precipices within land towered up considerably above the tops of the trees, and added to the grandeur of the view. There were, besides, two streams of crystal water which ran on the right and left of the tent, within 100 yards' distance, and were shaded by the trees which skirted the lawn on either side, and completed the symmetry of the whole. It remains now only that we speak of the animals and provisions which we met with at this place. Former writers have related that this island abounded with vast numbers of goats ; and their accounts are not to be questioned, this place being the usual haunt ofthe buccaneers and privateers who formerly frequented those seas. And there are two instances- one of a Mosquito Indian, and the other of 1 And was probably, as Thomas suggests, the very spot on which Shelvocke pitched his tent after his shipwreck on the island in May 1720. Shelvocke, as quoted in Kerr's Collec tion of Voyages, Part I. , Book IV. , chap. 12, sec. 22, says : " I now took some pains to find out a convenient place in which to set up my tent, and at length found a commodious spot of ground not half-a-mile from the sea, having a fine stream of water on each side, with trees close at hand for firing, and building our huts. "
51 THE ISLAND. Alexander Selkirk, a Scotchman, who were left by their respective ships, and lived alone upon this island for some years, and consequently were no strangers to its produce. Selkirk, who was the last, after a stay of be tween four and five years, was taken off the place by the Duke and Duchess privateers, of Bristol, as may be seen at large in the journal of their voyage. His manner of life during his solitude was in most particulars very remark able ; but there is one circumstance he relates which was so strangely verified by our own observation, that I cannot help reciting it. He tells us, among other things, as he often caught more goats than he wanted, he sometimes marked their ears and let them go. This was about thirty two years before our arrival at the island. Now it happened that the first goat that was killed by our people at their landing had his ears slit ; whence we concluded that he had doubtless been formerly under the power of Selkirk. This was indeed an animal of a most venerable aspect, dignified with an exceeding majestic beard, and with many other symptoms of antiquity. During our stay on the island we met with others marked in the same manner, all the males being distinguished by an exuberance of beard, and every other characteristic of extreme age. I remember we had once an oppor tunity of observing a remarkable dis pute betwixt a herd of these animals and a number of dogs, for going in our boat into the eastern bay, we saw some dogs running very eagerly upon the foot, and being willing to discover what game they were after, we lay upon our oars some time to view them; and at last we saw them take to a hill, and looking a little farther we ob served upon the ridge of it a herd of goats which seemed drawn up for their reception ; there was a very narrow path, skirted on each side by preci pices, on which the master of the herd posted himself fronting the enemy, the rest of the goats being all behind him, where the ground was more open. As this spot was inaccessible
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II. CH . I. 52 by any other path excepting where very full of blood, for if they are this champion had placed himself, the deeply wounded in a dozen places, dogs, though they ran up-hill with there will instantly gush out as many great alacrity, yet when they came fountains of blood, spouting to a con within about twenty yards of him siderable distance ; and to try what durst not encounter him (for he would quantity of blood they contained, we infallibly have driven them down the shot one first, and then cut its throat ; precipice), but gave over the chase, and measuring the blood that came and quietly laid themselves down, from him, we found that, besides what panting at a great rate. The dogs, remained in the vessels-which, to be which, as I have mentioned, are mas sure, was considerable-we got at • • We ters of all the accessible parts of the least two hogsheads. island, are of various kinds, but some killed many of them for food, particu of them very large, and are multiplied larly for their hearts and tongues, to a prodigious degree. They some which we esteemed exceeding good times came down to our habitations at eating, and preferable even to those of night and stole our provision, and bullocks. And in general there was once or twice they set upon single no difficulty in killing them, for they persons, but assistance being at hand, were incapable either of escaping or they were driven off without doing resisting, their motion being the most any mischief. As at present it is rare unwieldy that can be conceived, their for goats to fall in their way, we con blubber, all the time they are moving, ceived that they lived principally upon being agitated in large waves under young seals ; and indeed some of our their skins. However, a sailor one people had the curiosity to kill dogs day being carelessly employed in skin sometimes and dress them, and they ning a young sea-lion, the female seemed to agree that they had a fishy from which he had taken it came taste. upon him unperceived, and getting Goats' flesh, as I have mentioned, his head in her mouth, she with her being scarce, we rarely being able to teeth scored his skull in notches in kill above one a day, and our people many places, and thereby wounded growing tired. of fish (which abounds him so desperately that, though all at this place), they at last condescend possible care was taken of him, he ed to eat seals, which by degrees they died in a few days. But that which furnished us with came to relish, and called it lamb. The seal, numbers of which haunt the most delicious repasts at this this island, has been so often described island remains still to be described. by former writers that it is unneces This was the fish with which the sary to say anything particular about whole bay was most plentifully stored, them in this place. But there is an and with the greatest variety. For other amphibious creature to be met we found here cod of a prodigious with here, called a sea-lion, that bears size ; and by the report of some of our some resemblance to a seal, though it crew, who had been formerly employed is much larger. This, too, we ate, in the Newfoundland fishery, not in under the denomination of beef. They less plenty than is to be met with on are in size, when arrived at their full the banks of that island. We caught growth, from twelve to twenty fect in also cavillies, gropers, large breams, length, and from eight to fifteen in cir maids, silver-fish, congers of a peculiar cumference ; they are extremely fat, so kind, and above all, a black fish which that after having cut through the skin, we most esteemed, called by some a which is about an inch in thickness, chimney-sweeper, in shape resembling there is at least a foot of fat before you a carp. Indeed the beach is every can come at either lean or bones ; and where so full of rocks and loose stones we experienced more than once that that there is no possibility of hauling the fat of some of the largest afforded the seyne ; but with hooks and lines us a butt of oil. They are likewise we caught what numbers we pleased,
PRODUCE OF JUAN FERNANDEZ . 53 1741.] so that a boat with two or three lines properly that place was adapted for would return loaded with fish in about recovering us from the deplorable two or three hours' time. The only situation to which our tedious and interruption we ever met with arose unfortunate navigation round Cape from great quantities of dog-fish and Horn had reduced us. And having large sharks, which sometimes attend thus given the reader some idea of the ed our boats and prevented our sport. site and circumstances of this place, Besides the fish we have already men which was to be our residence for three tioned, we found here one delicacy in months, I shall now proceed in the greater perfection, both as to size, next Chapter to relate all that occurred flavour, and quantity, than is perhaps to us in that interval, resuming my to be met with in any other part of the narration from the 18th day of June, world. This was sea craw-fish ; they being the day on which the Trial generallyweighed eight or nine pounds sloop, having by a squall been driven a-piece, were of an excellent taste, and out to sea three days before, came lay in such abundance near the water's again to her moorings, the day in edge that the boat-hooks often struck which we finished the sending our into them in putting the boat to and sick on shore, and about eight days from the shore. after our first anchoring at this island. These are the most material articles relating to the accommodations, soil, vegetables, animals, and other produc tions of the Island of Juan Fernan CHAPTER II. dez. By which it must appear how THE arrival of the Trial sloop at this 1 Thomas adds, in somewhat enthu island, so soon after we came there siastic terms, another and a pleasant ourselves [in the Centurion], gave us feature of the island : " It is astonish great hopes of being speedily joined ing, that among all the voyagers who by the rest of the squadron ; and we have visited this fortunate island be were for some days continually look fore us, and who have obliged the ing out, in expectation of their com world with descriptions of it, none of ing in sight. But near a fortnight . them have mentioned a charming little being elapsed without any of them bird that, with its wild, various, and having appeared, we began to despair irregular notes, enchants the ear, and of ever meeting them again ; as we makes the woods resound with its knew that, had our ship continued so melody. This untutored chorister is much longer at sea, we should every somewhat less in size than the gold man of us have perished, and the finch, its plumage beautifully inter vessel, occupied by dead bodies only, mixed with red and othervivid colours, would have been left to the caprice of and the golden crown upon its head the winds and waves : and this we so bright and glowing when seen in | had great reason to fear was the fate the full light of the sun that it sur of our consorts, as each hour added passes all description. These little to the probability of these desponding birds are far from being uncommon or suggestions. unfamiliar, for they perched upon the But, on the 21st of June, some of branches of the myrtle-trees so near our people, from an eminence on ns, and sung so cheerfully, as if they shore, discerned a ship to leeward, had been conscious we were strangers, and came to give us welcome. There though not so musical ; the back, is, besides the above, another little wings, and head, are of a lively green, bird unnoticed by any former writer, intermixed with fine shining golden and which seems likewise peculiar to spots, and the belly a snow -white the island, and consequently without ground, with ebony-coloured spots, a name ; it is still less than the former so elegantly varied as no art can in size, but not inferior in beauty, imitate. "
54 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II. CH. II . with her courses even with the hori- | reach the road. However, she con zon ; and they at the same time par- tinued in the offing the next day, but ticularly observed, that she had no had no chance of coming to an anchor sail abroad except her courses and unless the wind and current shifted ; her main-topsail. This circumstance and therefore the Commodore repeat made them conclude that it was one ed his assistance, sending to her the of our squadron, which had probably Trial's boat manned with the Centur suffered in her sails and rigging as ion's people, and a further supply of severely as we had done : but they waterandother refreshments. Captain were prevented from forming more Mitchel, the captain of theGloucester, definite conjectures about her ; for, was under a necessity of detaining after viewing her for a short time, the both this boat and that sent the pre weather grew thick and hazy, and ceding day ; for without the help of they lost sight of her. On this report, their crews he had no longer strength and no ship appearing for some days, enough to navigate the ship. In this we were all under the greatest con- tantalising situation the Gloucester cern, suspecting that her people were continued for near a fortnight, with in the utmost distress for want of out being able to fetch the road, water, and so diminished and weak- though frequently attempting it, and ened by sickness as not to be able to at sometimes bidding very fair for it. ply up to windward ; so that we feared On the 9th of July we observed her that, after having been in sight of the stretching away to the eastward at a island, her whole crew would notwith- considerable distance, which we sup standing perish at sea. However, on posed was with a design to get to the the 26th, towards noon, we discerned southward of the island ; but as we a sail in the NE. quarter, which we soon lost sight of her, and she did conceived to be the very same ship not appear for near a week, we were that had been seen before, and our prodigiously concerned, knowing that conjectures proved true ; and about she must be again in extreme distress 1 o'clock she approached so near for want of water. After great impa that we could distinguish her to be tience about her, we discovered her the Gloucester. As we had no doubt again on the 16th, endeavouring to of her being in great distress, the come round the eastern point of the Commodore immediately ordered his island ; but the wind, still blowing boat to her assistance, laden with directly from the bay, prevented her fresh water, fish, and vegetables, getting nearer than within four leagues which was a very seasonable relief to of the land. On this Captain Mitchel them for our apprehensions of their made signals of distress ; and our calamities appeared to be but too well long-boat was sent to him with a store grounded, as perhaps there never was of water, and plenty of fish and other And the long-boat a crew in a more distressed situation. refreshments. They had already thrown overboard being not to be spared, the cockswain two-thirds of their complement, and had positive orders from the Commo of those that remained alive scarcely dore to return again immediately : any were capable of doing duty, ex- but the weather proving stormy the cept the officers and their servants. next day, and the boat not appearing, They had been a considerable time at we much feared she was lost, which the small allowance of a pint of fresh would have proved an irretrievable water to each man for twenty-four misfortune to us all. But, the third hours ; and yet they had so little left, day after, we were relieved from this that, had it not been for the supply anxiety by the joyful sight of the we sent them, they must soon have long-boat's sails upon the water ; and died of thirst. we sent the cutter immediately to her The ship plied in within three miles assistance, which towed her alongside of the bay ; but, the winds and cur in a few hours. The crew of our rents being contrary, she could not long-boat had taken in six of the
ARRIVAL OF THE GLOUCESTER. 55 1741.1 Gloucester's sick men to bring them to their wants ; for notwithstanding on shore, two of whom had died in the water, the greens, and fresh provi the boat. And now we learned that sions which we supplied them with, the Gloucester was in a most dreadful and the hands we sent them to navi condition, having scarcely a man in gate the ship, by which the fatigue of health on board, except those they their own people was diminished, their received from us ; and numbers of sick relieved, and the mortalityabated: their sick dying daily, we found that, notwithstanding this indulgent care of had it not been for the last supply the Commodore, they yet buried three sent byour long- boat, both the healthy fourths of their crew, and a very small and diseased must have all perished proportion of the remainder were cap together for want of water. And able of assisting in the duty of the these calamities were the more terrify ship. On their coming to an anchor, ing, as they appeared to be without our first care was to assist them in remedy : for the Gloucesterhad already mooring, and our next to send the spent a month in her endeavours to sick on shore. These were now reduced fetch the bay, and she was now no by deaths to less than fourscore, of farther advanced than at the first which we expected to lose the greatest moment she made the island ; on the part ; but whether it was that those contrary, the people on board her had farthest advanced in the distemper worn out all their hopes of ever suc were all dead, or that the greens and ceeding in it, by the many experi fresh provisions we had sent on board ments they had made of its difficulty. had prepared those who remained for Indeed, the same day her situation a more speedy recovery, it happened, grew more desperate than ever ; for contrary to our expectations, that their after she had received our last supply sick were in general relieved and re of refreshments, we again lost sight of stored to their strength in a much her ; so that we in general despaired shorter time than our own had been when we first came to the island, and of her ever coming to an anchor. Thus was this unhappy vessel ban very few of them died on shore. died about within a few leagues of her I have thus given an account of the intended harbour, whilst the neigh principal events relating to the arrival bourhood of that place, and of those of the Gloucester, in one continued circumstances which could alone put narration ; I shall only add, that we an end to the calamities they laboured never were joined by any other of under, served only to aggravate their our ships, except our victualler, the distress, bytorturing them with a view Anna pink, which came in about the of the relief it was not in their power middle of August, and whose history to reach. But she was at last deliv I shall more particularly relate here ered from this dreadful situation, at a after.¹ time when we least expected it ; for, 1 The sick were put ashore here and after having lost sight of her for several days, we were pleasingly surprised , on the Centurion was cleansed from the the morning of the 23d of July, to see effects of the recent distress on board, her open the NW. point ofthe bay with and the water was filled. In addition a flowing sail ; when we immediately to supplies of vegetables and fresh fish, despatched what boats we had to her new bread was also baked in order to assistance, and in an hour's time from revive the health of the crew. As our first perceiving her she anchored soon as the health of the men was safe within us in the bay. And now tolerably recovered, the strongest of we were more particularly convinced them were employed in cutting down of the importance of the assistance trees, and splitting them into billets ; and refreshments we so often sent while the smiths had their forge sent them, and how impossible it would ashore to mend the chain plates and have been for a man of them to have other broken and decayed iron-work. survived had we given less attention A large tent was also set up on the
56 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II. Cп. II. The occupations of cleaning and long- boat was employed in complet watering the ship (which was by this ing her water ; and whatever stores time pretty well completed), the at and necessaries she wanted were im tendance on our sick, and the frequent mediately supplied either from the relief sent to the Gloucester, were the Centurion or the Gloucester. But it principal transactions of our infirm was the 4th of August before the Trial crew till the arrival of the Gloucester was in readiness to sail, when having at an anchor in the bay. And then weighed, it soon after fell calm, and Captain Mitchel, waiting on the Com the tide set her very near the eastern modore, informed him, that he had shore. Captain Saunders hung out been forced by the winds, in his last lights, and fired several guns to ac absence, as far as the small island quaint us with his danger ; upon which called Mas-a-fuera, lyingabout twenty all the boats were sent to his relief, two leagues to the westward of Juan who towed the sloop into the bay ; Fernandez ; and that he endeavoured where she anchored until the next to send his boat on shore at this place morning, and thenweighing again pro for water, of which he could observe ceeded on her cruise with a fair breeze. And now after the Gloucester's several streams, but the wind blew so strong upon the shore, and occasioned arrival we were employed in earnest such a surf, that it was impossible for in examining and repairing our rig the boat to land ; though the attempt ging ; but in stripping our foremast was not altogether useless, as they we were alarmed by discovering it was returned with a boat-load of fish. This sprung just above the partners of the island had been represented by former upper deck. The spring was two navigators as a barren rock ; but Cap inches in depth and twelve in circum tain Mitchel assured the Commodore ference ; but the carpenters, inspect that it was almost everywhere covered ing it, gave it as their opinion that with trees and verdure, and was near fishing it with two leaves of an anchor four miles in length ; and added that it stock would render it as secure as ever. appeared to him farfrom impossible but But our greatest difficulty in refitting some small bay might be found on it, was the want of cordage and canvas ; which mightafford sufficient shelterfor for though we had taken to sea much any ship desirous of refreshing there. greater quantities of both than had As four ships of our squadron were ever been done before, yet the con missing, this description of the Island tinued bad weather we met with had of Mas-a-fuera gave rise to a conjecture occasioned such a consumption of these that some of them might possibly have stores, that we were driven to great fallen in with that island, and have straits. For after working up all our mistaken it for the true place of our junk and old shrouds, to make twice rendezvous ; and this suspicion was laid cordage, we were at last obliged the more plausible, as we had no to unlay a cable to work into running draught of either island that could be rigging ; and with all the canvas, and relied on. In consequence of this remnants of old sails, that could be reasoning, Mr Anson determined to mustered, we could only make up one send the Trial sloop thither, as soon complete suit. Towards the middle of August, our as she could be fitted for the sea, in order to examine all its bays and men being indifferently recovered, they creeks, that we might be satisfied were permitted to quit their sick tents, whether any of our missing ships were and to build separate huts for them there or not. For this purpose, some selves ; as it was imagined that by of our best hands were sent on board living apart they would be much clean the Trial the next morning, to over lier, and consequently likely to recover haul and fix her rigging ; and our their strength the sooner ; but at the same time particular orders were given, beach for the use of the sail-makers in that on the firing of a gun from the heir repairs of the sails and rigging. ship they should instantly repair to
ARRIVAL OF THE ANNA PINK. 57 1741.] the waterside. Their employment on expressly ordered him to receive ; so shore was now either the procuring of that the supposed loss of our vic refreshments, the cutting of wood, or tualler was on all accounts a mortify the making of oil from the blubber of ing consideration. However, on Sun the sea-lions. This oil served us for day the 16th of August, about noon, several uses, as burning in lamps, or we espied a sail in the northern mixing with pitch to pay the ship's quarter, and a gun was immediately sides, or, when mixed withwood-ashes, fired from the Centurion to call off to supply the use of tallow, of which the people from shore, who readily we had none left, to give the ship obeyed the summons, and repaired to boot-hose tops.1 Some of the men, the beach, where the boats waited to too, were occupied in salting cod ; carry them on board. And now being for there being two Newfoundland prepared for the reception of this ship fishermen in the Centurion, the Com in view, whether friend or enemy, inodore made use of them in laying in a we had various speculations about considerable quantity of salted cod fora her. At first many imagined it to be sca-store ; but very little of it was made the Trial sloop returned from her use of, as it was afterwards thought to cruise ; but as she drew nearer this be as productive of the scurvy as any opinion was confuted by observing she was a vessel with three masts. other kind of salt provisions. I have before mentioned that we And then other conjectures were had a copper oven on shore to bake eagerly canvassed, some judging it bread for the sick ; but it happened to be the Severn, others the Pearl, that the greatest part of the flour for and several affirming that it did not the use of the squadron was embarked belong to our squadron. But about on board our victualler, the Anna three in the afternoon our disputes pink. And I should have mentioned were ended by an unanimous per that the Trial sloop, at her arrival, suasion that it was our victualler, had informed us that on the 9th of the Anna pink. This ship, though, May she had fallen in with our vic like the Gloucester, she had fallen in tualler not far distant from the con to the northward of the island, had tinent of Chili, and had kept com yet the good fortune to come to an pany with her for four days, when anchor in the bay at five in the after they were parted in a hard gale of noon. Her arrival gave us all the wind. This gave us some room to sincerest joy ; for each ship's company hope that she was safe, and that she was now restored to its full allowance might soon join us; but all June and of bread, and we were now freed from July being past without any news of the apprehensions of our provisions her, we suspected she was lost ; and falling short before we could reach at the end of July the Commodore some amicable port-a calamity which ordered all the ships to a short allow in these seas is of all others the most ance of bread. And it was not in irretrievable. This was the last ship our bread only that we feared a de that joined us ; and the dangers she ficiency ; for since our arrival at this encountered, and the good fortune island we discovered that our former which she afterwards met with, being purser had neglected to take on board matters worthy of a separate narra large quantities of several kinds of tion, I shall refer them, together with provisions which the Commodore had a short account of the other ships of the squadron, to the ensuing Chapter. 1 Boot-topping in those days denot ed the scraping of a ship's bottom, or that part of its side near the sur CHAPTER III. face of the water, and paying it over with a mixture of tallow, sulphur, resin, &c., as a temporary protection ON the first appearance of the Anna pink it seemed wonderful to us how to the plank from worms.
58 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II . CH. III . the crew of a vessel which came to selves over for lost ; for they appre this rendezvous two months after us hended that if any of them by some should be capable of working their extraordinary chance should get on ship in the manner they did, with so shore, they would in all probability little appearance of debility and dis- be massacred by the savages on the tress. But this difficulty was soon coast for these knowing no other solved when she came to an anchor ; Europeans but Spaniards, it might be for we then found that they had been expected they would treat all stran in harbour since the middle of May, gers with the same cruelty which they which was near a month before we had so often and so signally exerted arrived at Juan Fernandez : so that against their Spanish neighbours. their sufferings (the risk they had Under these terrifying circumstances run of shipwreck only excepted) were the pink drove nearer and nearer to greatly short of what had been under- the rocks which formed the shore ; gone by the rest of the squadron. It but at last, when the crew expected seems, on the 16th of May, they fell each instant to strike, they perceived in with the land, which was then but a small opening in the land, which four leagues distant, in the Latitude raised their hopes ; and immediately of 45° 15' S. On the first sight of cutting away their two anchors, they it they wore ship and stood to the steered for it, and found it to be a southward ; but their foretopsail split- small channel betwixt an island and ting, and the wind being WSW., the main, which led them into a most they drove towards the shore ; and excellent harbour, which, for its se the captain at last, either unable to curity against all winds and swells, clear the land, or, as others say, re- and the smoothness of its waters, may solved to keep the sea no longer, perhaps compare with any in the steered for the coast with a view of known world. And this place being discovering some shelter amongst the scarcely two miles distant from 'the many islands which then appeared in spot where they deemed their destruc sight. And about four hours after tion inevitable, the horrors of ship the first view of the land, the pink wreck and of immediate death which had the good fortune to come to an had so long and so strongly possessed anchor to the eastward of the Island them vanished almost instantane of Inchin ; but as they did not run ously, and gave place to the more sufficiently near to the east shore of joyous ideas of security, repose, and that island, and had not hands to refreshment. In this harbour, dis veer away the cable briskly, they covered in this almost miraculous were soon driven to the eastward, manner, the pink came to an anchor deepening their water from twenty- in twenty-five fathoms water, with five fathoms to thirty-five, and still only a hawser and a small anchor of continuing to drive, they, the next about three hundred-weight ; and here day, the 17th of May, let go their she continued for near two months, sheet anchor ; which though it brought refreshing her people, who were many them up for a short time, yet on the of them ill of the scurvy, but were 18th they drove again, till they came soon restored to perfect health by the into sixty-five fathoms water, and fresh provisions of which they pro were now within a mile of the land, cured good store, and the excellent and expected to be forced on shore water with which the adjacent shore every moment, in a place where the abounded.¹ • coast was so very high and steep, that there was not the least prospect 1 Anna Pink Bay is laid down in of saving the ship or cargo. And modern maps to the extreme north of their boats being very leaky, and the peninsula of Tres Montes, between there being no appearance of a land that land and the southernmost island ing-place, the whole crew, consisting of the Chonos Archipelago, off the of sixteen men and boys, gave them western coast of Patagonia.
59 1741. NARRATIVE OF WHAT BEFELL THE ANNA PINK. It may be expected that I should they were permitted to go where they relate the discoveries made by the pleased about the ship, but at night [Anna's] crew on the adjacent coast, were locked up in the forecastle. As and the principal incidents during they were fed in the same manner their stay there. But here I must with the rest of the crew, and were observe, that being only a few in often indulged with brandy, which number, they did not dare to detach they seemed greatly to relish, it did any of their people on distant dis not at first appear that they were coveries ; for they were perpetually much dissatisfied with their situa terrified with the apprehension that tion ; especially as the master took they should be attacked either by the the Indian on shore when he went Spaniards or the Indians ; so that a-shooting (who always seemed ex their excursions were generally con tremely delighted when the master fined to that tract of land which sur killed his game), and as all the crew rounded the port, and where they treated them with great humanity. were never out of view of the ship. But it was soon perceived, that though But even had they at first known how the woman continued easy and cheer little foundation there was for these ful, yet the man grew pensive and He fears, yet the country in the neigh restless at his confinement. bourhood was so grown up with wood, seemed to be a person of good natural and traversed with mountains, that it parts ; and, though not capable of appeared impracticable to penetrate conversing with the pink's people it ; so that no account of the inland otherwise than by signs, was yet very parts could be expected from them. curious and inquisitive, and showed Indeed, they were able to disprove the great dexterity in the manner of mak relations given by Spanish writers, ing himself understood . In particu who had represented this coast as in lar, seeing so few people on board habited by a fierce and powerful such a large ship, he let them know people ; for they were certain that that he supposed they were once more no such inhabitants were there to be numerous ; and to represent to them found, at least during the winter sea what he imagined was become of their son ; since all the time they continued companions, he laid himself down on there they saw no more than one In the deck, closing his eyes, and stretch.. dian family, which came into the ing himself out motionless, to imitate harbour in a periagua about a month the appearance of a dead body. But after the arrival of the pink, and con the strongest proof of his sagacity was sisted of an Indian near forty years the manner of his getting away ; for old, his wife, and two children, one after being in custody on board the three years of age and the other still pink eight days, the scuttle of the at the breast. They seemed to have forecastle, where he and his family with them all their property, which were locked up every night, happened was a dog, a cat, a fishing- net, a to be [left] unnailed , and the follow hatchet, a knife, a cradle, some bark ing night being extremely dark and of trees intended for covering a hut, stormy, he contrived to convey his a reel, some worsted, a flint and steel, wife and children through the un and a few roots of a yellow hue and a nailed scuttle, and then over the very disagreeable taste, which served ship's side into the yawl ; and, to them for bread. The master ofthe prevent being pursued, he cut away pink, as soon as he perceived them, the long-boat and his own periagua, sent his yawl, which brought them on which were towing astern, and imme board ; and fearing lest they might diately rowed ashore. All this he discover him if they were permitted conducted with so much diligence to go away, he took, as he conceived, and secrecy, that though there was a proper precautions for securing them, watch onthe quarter-deck with loaded but without any mixture of ill- usage arms, yet he was not discovered by or violence. For in the day-time them till the noise of his oars in the
60
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II . C. III . water, after he had put off from the | still continued near them, yet others ship, gave them notice of his escape ; would needs conclude that he was and then it was too late either to pre gone to the Island of Chiloe, where vent him or pursue him, for their they feared he would alarm the Span boats being all adrift, it was a con iards, and would soon return with a siderable time before they could con force sufficient to surprise the pink. trive the means of getting on shore And on this occasion the master of themselves to search for their boats. the pink was prevailed on to omit The Indian, too, by this effort, besides firing the evening gun ; for it must the recovery of his liberty, was in be remembered (and there is a parti some sort revenged on those who had cular reason hereafter for attending confined him, both by the perplexity to this circumstance) that the master, they were involved in from the loss of from an ostentatious imitation of the their boats, and by the terror he threw practice of men-of-war, had hitherto them into at his departure ; for on fired a gun every evening at the set the first alarm of the watch, who ting of the watch. This, he pretended, cried out " The Indians !" the whole was to awe the enemy, if there was ship was in the utmost confusion, be any within hearing, and to convince lieving themselves to be boarded by them that the pink was always on her guard ; but it being now represented a fleet of armed periaguas. The resolution and sagacity with to him that his great security was his which the Indian behaved upon this concealment, and that the evening occasion, had they been exerted on a gun might possibly discover him and more extensive object than retrieving serve to guide the enemy to him, he the freedom of a single family, might was prevailed on, as has been men perhaps have immortalised the ex tioned, to omit it for the future. And ploit, and have given him a rank his crew being now well refreshed , amongst the illustrious names of an and their wood and water sufficiently tiquity. Indeed, his late masters did replenished, he, in a few days after so much justice to his merit as to own the escape of the Indian, put to sea, that it was a most gallant enterprise, and had a fortunate passage to the and that they were grieved they had rendezvous at the Island of Juan Fer ever been necessitated, by their atten nandez, where he arrived on the 16th tion to their own safety, to abridge the of August, as has been already men liberty of a person of whose prudence tioned in the preceding Chapter. This vessel, the Anna pink, was, as and courage they had now such a distinguished proof. And as it was I have observed, the last that joined supposed by some of them that he the Commodore at Juan Fernandez. still continued in the woods in the The remaining ships of the squadron neighbourhood of the port, where it were the Severn, the Pearl, and the was feared he might suffer for want Wager store-ship. The Severn and of provisions, they easily prevailed Pearl parted company with the squad upon the master to leave a quantity ron off Cape Noir, and, as we after of such food as they thought would wards learned, put back to the Brazils ; be most agreeable to him, in a parti so that of all the ships which came cular part where they imagined he into the South Seas the Wager, Cap would be likely to find it ; and there tain Cheap, was the only one that was reason to conjecture that this was missing. This ship had on board piece of humanity was not altogether some field-pieces mounted for land useless to him, for on visiting the service, together with some cohorn place some time after, it was found mortars, and several kinds of artil that the provision was gone, and in lery, stores, and tools, intended for a manner that made them conclude the operations on shore. And, there it had fallen into his hands. fore, as the enterprise on Baldivia had But, however, though many of been resolved on for the first under them were satisfied that this Indian taking of the squadron, Captain Cheap
THE LOSS OF 1741. ] was extremely solicitous that these materials, which were in his custody, might be ready before Baldivia ; that if the squadron should possibly ren dezvous there (as he knew not the condition they were then reduced to) no delay nor disappointment might be imputed to him. But whilst the Wager, with these views, was making the best of her way to her first rendezvous off the Island of Socoro, whence (as there was little probability of meeting any of the squadron there) she proposed to steer directly for Baldivia, she made the land on the 14th of May, about the Latitude of 47° S.; and the captain exerting himself on this occasion, in order to get clear of it, he had the misfortune to fall down the after-ladder, and thereby dislo cated his shoulder, which rendered him incapable of acting. This acci dent, together with the crazy condi tion of the ship, which was little better than a wreck, prevented her from getting off to sea, and entangled her more and more with the land ; so that the next morning, at daybreak, she struck on a sunken rock, and soon after bilged, and grounded between two small islands, at about a musket shot from the shore. In this situa tion the ship continued entire a long time, so that all the crew had it in their power to get safe on shore ; but a general confusion taking place, num bers of them, instead ofconsultingtheir safety, or reflecting on their calamit ous condition, fell to pillaging the ship, arming themselves with the first weapons that came to hand, and threatening to murder all who should oppose them. This frenzy was greatly heightened by the liquors they found on board, with which they got so ex tremely drunk, that some of them tumbling down between decks, were drowned as the water flowed in, being incapable of getting up and retreating to other places where the water had not yet entered. And the captain, having done his utmost to get the whole crew on shore, was at last obliged to leave these mutineers be hind him, and to follow his officers
61 THE WAGER. and such as he had been able to pre vail on ; but he did not fail to send back the boats to persuade those who remained to have some regard to their preservation, though all his efforts were for some time without success. However, the weather next day prov ing stormy, and there being great danger of the ship's parting, they began to be alarmed with the fears of perishing, and were desirous of get ting to land ; but it seems their mad ness had not yet left them, for the boat not appearing to fetch them off so soon as they expected, they at last pointed a four-pounder, which was on the quarter-deck, against the hut where they knew the captain re sided on shore, and fired two shots, which passed but just over it. From this specimen of the behavi our of part of the crew, it will not be difficult to frame some conjecture of the disorder and anarchy which took place when they at last got all on shore. For the men conceived that by the loss of the ship the authority of the officers was at an end ; and, they being now on a desolate coast, where scarcely any other provisions could be got except what should be saved out of the wreck, this was an other insurmountable source of dis cord. For as the working upon the wreck, and the securing the provi sions, so that they might be preserved for future exigencies as much as pos sible, and the taking care that what was necessary for immediate subsist ence might be sparingly and equally distributed, were matters not to be brought about but by discipline and subordination ; the mutinous disposi tion of the people, stimulated by the impulses of immediate hunger, ren dered every regulation made for this purpose ineffectual. So that there were continual concealments, frauds, and thefts, which animated each man against his fellow, and produced in finite feuds and contests. And hence there was constantly kept on foot a perverse and malevolent turn of tem 1 Ed . 1776 : " The refractory part of the crew.'
62 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II. CH. III. per, which rendered them utterly un- | through the Straits of Magellan, and to range along the east side of South governable.¹ But besides these heart-burnings, America, till they should arrive at occasioned by petulance and hunger, Brazil, where they doubted not to be there was another important point, well received, and to procure a pass which set the greatest part of the age to Great Britain. This project people at variance with the captain. was atfirstsightinfinitelymorehazard This was their differing with him in ous and tedious than what was pro opinion on the measures to be pur posed by the captain ; but as it had sued in the present exigency ; for the the air of returning home, and flatter captain was determined, if possible, ed them with the hopes of bringing to fit up the boats in the best manner themonce more to theirnative country, he could, and to proceed with them this circumstance alone rendered them to the northward. For having with inattentive to all its inconveniences, him above 1002 men in health, and hav and made them adhere to it with in ing got some fire-arms and ammuni surmountable obstinacy ; so that the tion from the wreck, he did not doubt captain himself, though he never but they could master any Spanish changed his opinion, was yet obliged vessel they should meet with in those to give way to the torrent, and in ap scas ; and he thought he could not pearance to acquiesce in this resolu fail of meeting with one in the neigh tion, whilst he endeavoured under bourhood of Chiloe or Baldivia, in hand to give it all the obstruction he which, when he had taken her, he could, particularly in the lengthen intended to proceed to the rendezvous ing of the long-boat, which he con at Juan Fernandez ; and he further trived should be of such a size, that insisted, that should they meet with though it might serve to carry them no prize by the way, yet the boats to Juan Fernandez, would yet, he alone would easily carry them there. hoped, appear incapable of so long a But this was a scheme that, however navigation as that to the coast of prudent, was no ways relished by the Brazil. But the captain, by his steady op generality of his people ; for, being quite jaded with the [ fatigues, ] dis position at first to this favourite pro tresses, and dangers they had already ject, had much embittered the people run through, they could not think of against him ; to which, likewise, the prosecuting anenterprise further which following unhappy accident greatly had hitherto proved so disastrous ; contributed. There was a midship and therefore the common resolution man, whose name was Cozens, who had was to lengthen the long-boat, and appeared the foremost in all the refrac with that and the rest of the boats, tory proceedings of the crew. He to steer to the southward, to pass had involved himself in brawls with most of the officers who had adhered 1 Sir John Barrow, in his " Life of to the captain's authority, and had Anson, " states that " it was in conse even treated the captain himself with abuse and insolence. As his of the and of the turbulence shipwrecked seamen of the and brutality grew every Wager, that Anson, in 1748, when he day more and more intolerable, it had the management ofthe Admiralty, was not in the least doubted but there in the absence of the Duke of Bed were some violent measures in agita ford and Lord Sandwich, got an Act tion in which Cozens was engaged as passed (21 George II. ) for extending the ringleader ; for which reason the the discipline of the navy to the captain, and those about him, con crews of His Majesty's ships, wrecked, stantlykept themselves on theirguard. lost, or taken, and continuing to But at last the purser, having, bythe them their wages upon certain condi captain's order, stopped the allowance tions." of a fellow who would not work, 2 Ed. 1776 : " Above 200." Cozens, though the man did not com
63 MUTINY OF THE CREW OF THE WAGER. 1741.] plain to him, intermeddled in the When the ship was wrecked, there affair with great eagerness ; and remained alive on board the Wager grossly insulting the purser, who was near 130 persons ; of these, above then delivering our provisions just thirty died during their stay upon the by the captain's tent, and was him place, and near eighty went off in the self sufficiently violent, the purser, long-boat and the cutter to the south enraged by his scurrility, and per ward : so that there remained with haps piqued by former quarrels, cried the captain, after their departure, no out " A mutiny !" adding " that the more than nineteen persons, which, dog had pistols, " and then himself however, was as many as the barge fired a shot at Cozens, which, how and the yawl-the only embarkations ever, missed him. But the captain, left them-could well carry off. It on this outcry and the report of the was on the 13th of October, five pistol, rushed out of his tent ; and, months after the shipwreck, that the not doubting but it had been fired by long-boat, converted into a schooner, Cozens as the commencement of a weighed and stood to the southward, mutiny, he immediately shot him in giving the captain, who, with Lieu the head without further deliberation, tenant Hamilton of the land forces, and though he did not kill him on and the surgeon, was then on the the spot, yet the wound proved mor beach, three cheers at their departure. tal, and he died about fourteen days It was the 29th of January following after. before they arrived at Rio Grande on This incident, however displeasing the coast of Brazil ; and having, by to the people, did yet for a consider various accidents, left about twenty able time awe them to their duty, and of their people on shore at the dif rendered them more submissive to the ferent places they touched at ; and a captain's authority. But at last, greater number having perished by when towards the middle of October hunger during the course of their na the long-boat was nearly completed, vigation, there were no more than and they were preparing to put to thirty of them left when they arrived sea, the additional provocation he in that port. Indeed the undertaking gave them by covertly traversing of itself was a most extraordinary one, their project of proceeding through for, not to mention the length of the the Straits of Magellan, and their run, the vessel was scarcely able to fears that he might at length engage contain the number that first put to a party sufficient to overturn this sea in her ; and their stock of provi favourite measure, made them resolve sions (being only what they had saved to make use of the death of Cozens out ofthe ship) was extremely slender ; as a reason for depriving him of his and the cutter, the only boat they command, under pretence of carrying had with them, soon broke away from him a prisoner to England to be tried the stern and was staved to pieces ; so for murder ; and he was accordingly that when their provision and their confined under a guard. But they water failed them, they had frequently never intended to carry him with no means ofgetting on shore to search them, as they too well knew what for a fresh supply. Whenthe long-boat and cutter were they had to apprehend on their re turn to England if their commander gone, the captain and those who were should be present to confront them ; left with him proposed to pass to the and therefore, when they were just northward in the barge and yawl ; ready to put to sea, they set him at but the weather was so bad, and the liberty, leaving him, and the few who difficulty of subsisting so great, that chose to take their fortunes with him, it was two months after the departure no other embarkation but the yawl ; of the long-boat before he was able to to which the barge was afterwards put to sea. It seems the place where added by the people on board her the Wager was cast away was not a being prevailed on to return back. part of the continent, as was first
64 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. II . CH. III . imagined, but an island at some dis the Anna pink, especially as what tance from the main, which afforded was heard at Wager Island was about no other sorts of provision but shell the same time of the day. But to fish and a few herbs ; and as the return to Captain Cheap. Upon the 14th of December the greatest part of what they had got from the ship was carried off in the captain and his people embarked in long-boat, the captain and his people the barge and the yawl in order to were often in great necessity, especi proceed to the northward, taking on ally as they chose to preserve what board with them all the provisions little sea-provisions remained for their they could amass from the wreck of store when they should go to the the ship ; but they had scarcely been northward. During their residence an hour at sea when the wind began at this island, which wass lby the sea to blow hard, and the sea ran so high 1 men denominated Wager Island, that they were obliged to throw the they had now and then a straggling greatest part of their provisions over canoe or two of the Indians, which board to avoid immediate destruction . came and bartered their fish and other This was a terrible misfortune in a provisions with our people. This was part of the world where food is so dif indeed some little succour, and at an ficult to be got ; however, they still other season might perhaps have been persisted in their design, putting on greater ; for as there were several shore as often as they could to seek Indian huts on the shore, it was sup subsistence. But, about a fortnight posed that in some years, during the after, another dreadful accident befell height of summer, many of these sav them, for the yawl sank at an anchor, ages might resort thither to fish. And, and one ofthe men in herwasdrowned ; from what has been related in the ac and as the barge was incapable of car count of the Anna pink, it should rying the whole company, they were seem to be the general practice of now reduced to the hard necessity of those Indians to frequent this coast leaving four marines behind them on in the summer time for the benefit of that desolate shore. But they still fishing, and to retire in the winter kept on their course to the northward, into a better climate more to the north struggling with their disasters, and ward. And on this mention of the greatly delayed by the perverseness Anna pink, I cannot but observe how of the winds and the frequent inter much it is to be lamented that the ruptions which their search after food Wager's people had no knowledge of occasioned ; till at last, about the end her being so near them on the coast ; of January, having made three unsuc for as she was not above thirty leagues cessful attempts to double a headland distant from them, and came into which they supposed to be what the their neighbourhood about the same Spaniards called Cape Tres Montes, it time the Wager was lost, and was a was unanimously resolved to give over fine roomy ship, she could easily have this expedition, the difficulties ofwhich taken them all on board and have appeared insuperable, and to return carried them to Juan Fernandez. In again to Wager Island, where they deed, I suspect she was still nearer to got back about the middle of Febru them than what is here estimated, for ary, quite disheartened and dejected several of the Wager's people, at dif with their reiterated disappointments, ferent times, heard the report of a and almost perishing with hunger and cannon, which I conceive could be no fatigue. However, on their return they had other than the evening gun fired from the good luck to meet with several 1 A small island just north of Wel pieces of beef which had been washed lington Island on the western coast of out of the ship, and were swimming Patagonia, and divided from the pen in the sea. This was a most season insula of Tres Montes, lying to the able relief to them after the hardships northward still, by the Gulf of Penas. they had endured ; and, to complete
FATE OF THE CREW. 65 1741.] their good fortune, there came in a the Indian who had undertaken to short time two canoes of Indians, carry them to Chiloe, he and his family amongst whom was a native of Chiloe being then on board it. He made no who spoke a little Spanish ; and the difficulty of coming to them, for it surgeon who was with Captain Cheap seems he had left Captain Cheap and understanding that language, he made his people a little before to go a-fish a bargain with the Indian, that if he ing, and had in the meantime com would carry the captain and his people mitted them to the care of the other to Chiloe in the barge he should have Indian, whom the sailors had carried her, and all that belonged to her, for to sea in the barge. But when he his pains. Accordingly, on the 6th came on shore and found the barge of March, the eleven persons, to which | gone and his companion missing, he the company was now reduced, em was extremely concerned, and could barked in the barge on this new ex with difficulty be persuaded that the pedition ; but after having proceeded other Indian was not murdered ; but for a few days, the captain and four of being at last satisfied with the account his principal officers being on shore, that was given him, he still under the six, who together with an Indian took to carry them to the Spanish remained in the barge, put off with settlements, and (as the Indians are her to sea and did not return. well skilled in fishing and fowling) By this means there were left on to procure them provisions by the shore Captain Cheap, Mr Hamilton, way. lieutenant of marines ; the Honour About the middle of March, Cap able Mr Byron¹ and Mr Campbell, tain Cheap and the four who were left midshipmen ; and Mr Elliot, the sur with him set out for Chiloe, the Indian geon. One would have thought their having procured a number of canoes, distresses had long before this time and got many of his neighbours to been incapable of augmentation, but gether for that purpose. Soon after they found, on reflection, that their they embarked, Mr Elliot the surgeon present situation was much more dis died, so that there now remained only inaying than anything they had yet four of the whole company. At last, gone through, being left on a desolate after a very complicated passage by coast without any provision, or the land and water, Captain Cheap, Mr means of procuring any, for their Byron, and Mr Campbell, arrived in arms, ammunition, and every conveni the beginning of June at the Island of ency they were masters of, except the Chiloe, where they were received by tattered habits they had on, were all the Spaniards with great humanity ; carried away in the barge. But when but, on account ofsome quarrel among they had sufficiently revolved in their the Indians, Mr Hamilton did not get own minds the various circumstances thither till two months after. Thus, of this unexpected calamity, and were above a twelvemonth after the loss of persuaded that they had no relief to the Wager, ended this fatiguing pere hope for, they perceived a canoe at a grination, which by a variety of distance, which proved to be that of misfortunes had diminished the com panyfrom twentyto no more than four, 1 The Honourable John Byron, who and those too, brought so low, that left a well-written narrative of his had their distresses continued but a sufferings and adventures ; as Com few days longer, in all probability modore, he commanded an expedition none of them would have survived. of discovery to the southern parts of For the captain himself was with South America in 1764-1766, and cir difficulty recovered ; and the rest were cumnavigated the globe partly in the so reduced by the severity of the same track as his former commander. weather, their labour, and their want He afterwards rose to the rank of Ad of all kinds of necessaries, that it was miral, and survived till 1798. Lord wonderful how they supported them selves so long. After some stay at Byron, the poet, was his grandson. E
66 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II . CH. IV. Chiloe, the captain and the three who her working and straining in bad were with him were sent to Valparaiso, weather ; for thereby several of her and thence to Santiago, the capital of casks had rotted, and her bags were The Chili, where they continued above a soaked through.¹ • year but on the advice of a cartel thorough refitting of the Anna pink, beingsettled betwixt Great Britain and proposed by the carpenters, was, in Spain, Captain Cheap, Mr Byron, and our present situation, impossible to be Mr Hamilton were permitted to return complied with, as all the plank and to Europe on board a French ship. iron in the squadron was insufficient The other midshipman, Mr Campbell, for that purpose. And now the master, having changed his religion whilst at finding his own sentiments confirmed Santiago, chose to go back [ overland] by the opinion of all the carpenters, to Buenos Ayres with Pizarro and his offered a petition to the Commodore officers, with whom he went afterwards in behalf of his owners, desiring that, to Spain on board the Asia ; and there since it appeared he was incapable of having failed in his endeavours to pro leaving the island, Mr Anson would cure a commission from the Court of please to purchase the hull and furni Spain, he returned to England, and ture of the pink for the use of the attempted to get reinstated in the squadron. Hereupon the Commodore British navy ; and has since publish ordered an inventory to be taken of ed a narration of his adventures, in everyparticular belonging to the pink, which he complains of the injustice with its just value ; andas by thisinven that had been done him, and strong tory it appeared that there were many ly disavows his ever being in the stores which would be useful in refit Spanish service. But as the change ting the other ships, and which were of his religion, and his offering him at present very scarce in the squadron self to the Court of Spain (though not by reason of the great quantities that accepted), are matters which, he is had been already expended, he agreed conscious, are capable of being incon with Mr Gerard to purchase the whole testably proved ; on these two heads together for £300. The pink being he has been entirely silent. And now, thus broken up, Mr Gerard, with the after this account of the accidents hands belonging to the pink, were sent which befell the Anna pink, and the on board the Gloucester ; as that ship catastrophe of the Wager, I shall had buried the greatest number of again resume the thread of our own men in proportion to her complement. But afterwards one or two of them story. were received on board the Centurion on their own petition, they being ex tremely averse to sailing in the same CHAPTER IV. ship with their old master, on account of some particular ill-usage they con ABOUT a week after the arrival of our ceived they had suffered from him. This transaction brought us down victualler, the Trial sloop, that had been sent to the Island of Mas-a-fuera, to the beginning of September, and our returned to an anchor at Juan Fer people by this time were so far re nandez, after having been round that covered of the scurvy that there was island without meeting any part of little danger of burying any more at present ; and therefore I shall now our squadron. The latter part of the month of sum up the total of our loss since our August was spent in unloading the departure from England, the better to provisions from the Anna pink ; and convey some idea of our past suffer here we had the mortification to find that great quantities of our provisions, 1 The Anna pink was here dis as rice,for groats, were decay- charged from the service of the squad and unfit use. &c., ed bread, This was owing ron, and on examination was found to the water the pink had made by to be un-seaworthy.
67 1741. ] DEATHS IN THE SQUADRON DURING THE VOYAGE. ings and of our present strength. We force to be fitted out from Callao ; had buried on board the Centurion and, however contemptible the ships since our leaving St Helens 292, and and sailors of this part of the world had now remaining on board 214. may have been generally esteemed, it This will doubtless appear a most was scarcely possible for anything extraordinary mortality ; but yet on bearing the name of a ship of force to board the Gloucester it had been much be feebler or less considerable than greater, for out of a much smaller ourselves. And had there been no crew than ours they had buried the thing to be apprehended from the same number, and had only eighty naval power of the Spaniards in this two remaining alive. It might be part of the world, yet our enfeebled expected that on board the Trial the condition would nevertheless give us slaughter would have been the most the greatest uneasiness, as we were terrible, as her decks were almost con incapable of attempting any of their stantly knee-deep in water ; but it hap considerable places ; for the risking of pened otherwise, for she escaped more twenty men, weak as we then were, favourably than the rest, since she only was risking the safety of the whole. buried forty-two, and had now thirty So that we conceived we should be nine remaining alive. The havoc of necessitated to content ourselves with this disease had fallen still severer on what few prizes we could pick up at the invalids and marines than on the sea before we were discovered, after sailors ; for on board the Centurion, which we should in all probability be out of fifty invalids and seventy-nine obliged to depart with precipitation, marines there remained only four and esteem ourselves fortunate to re invalids, including officers, and eleven gain our native country, leaving our marines ; and on board the Gloucester enemies to triumph on the incon every invalid perished, and out of siderable mischief they had received forty-eight marines only two escaped. from a squadron whose equipment From this account it appears that the had filled them with such dreadful three ships together departed from apprehensions. This was a subject England with 961 men on board, of on which we had reason to imagine whom 626 were dead before this time ; the Spanish ostentation would remark so that the whole of our remaining ably exert itself ; though the causes crews, which were now to be distri of our disappointment and their secu buted amongst three ships, amounted rity were neither to be sought for in to no more than 335 men and boys, their valour nor our misconduct. Such a number greatly insufficient for man were the desponding reflections which ning the Centurion alone, and barely at that time arose on the review and capable of navigating all the three comparison of our remaining strength with the utmost exertion of their with our original numbers. Indeed strength and vigour. This prodigious our fears were far from being ground reduction of our men was still the less or disproportioned to our feeble more terrifying as we were hitherto and almost desperate situation. It is uncertainofthefate of Pizarro's squad- true the final event proved more hon ron, and had reason to suppose that ourable than we had foreboded ; but some part of it at least had got round theintermediatecalamitiesdid likewise into these seas. Indeed we were satis- greatly surpass our most gloomy ap fied from our own experience that prehensions, and could they have been they must have suffered greatly in predicted to us at this Island of Juan their passage ; but then every port in Fernandez, they would doubtless have the South Seas was open to them, and appeared insurmountable. In the beginning of September, as the whole power of Chili and Peru would doubtless be united in refresh has been already mentioned, our men ing and refitting them, and recruiting were tolerably well recovered ; and the numbers they had lost. Besides, now the time of navigation in this we had some obscure knowledge of a climate drawing near, we exerted
68
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II . Cп.IV. .arselves in getting our ships in satisfied that it was an enemy, and readiness for the sea. We converted the first we had seen in these seas, the foremast of the victualler into a we resolved not to give over the search mainmast for the Trial sloop ; and, lightly ; and a small breeze springing still flattering ourselves with the pos up from the WNW. , we got up our sibility of the arrival of some other top-gallant masts and yards, set all ships of our squadron, we intended the sails, and steered to the SE. , in to leave the mainmast of the victualler hopes of retrieving our chase, which to make a mizzenmast for the Wager. we imagined to be bound to Valpar Thus all hands being employed in aiso. We continued on this course forwarding our departure, we on the all that day and the next ; and then, 8th, about eleven in the morning, not getting sight of our chase, we espied a sail to the NE. , which con gave over the pursuit, conceiving that tinued to approach us till her courses by that time she must in all proba appeared even with the horizon. In bility have reached her port. And now we prepared to return to this interval we all had hopes she might prove one of our own squadron ; Juan Fernandez, and hauled up to but at length, finding she steered the SW. with that view, having but away to the eastward, without haul very little wind till the 12th, when, ing in for the island, we concluded at three in the morning, there sprang she must be a Spaniard. And now up a fresh gale from the WSW., and great disputes were set on foot about we tacked and stood to the NW.; the possibility of her having dis and at daybreak we were agreeably covered our tents on shore, some of surprised with the sight of a sail on us strongly insisting that she had our weather-bow, between four and On this we doubtless been near enough to have five leagues distant. perceived something that had given crowded all the sail we could, and her a jealousy of an enemy, which stood after her, and soon perceived it had occasioned her standing to the not to be the same ship we originally castward without hauling in ; but, gave chase to. She at first bore down leaving these contests to be settled upon us, showing Spanish colours, afterwards, it was resolved to pursue and making a signal as to her con her ; and the Centurion being in the sort; but observing that we did not greatest forwardness, we immediately answer her signal, she instantly luffed got all our hands on board, set up close to the wind and stood to the our rigging, bent our sails, and by southward. Our people were now all five in the afternoon got under sail. in spirits, and put the ship about We had at this time very little wind, with great alacrity ; and as the chase so that all the boats were employed appeared to be a large ship, and had to tow us out of the bay ; and even mistaken us for her consort, wo con what wind there was lasted only long ceived that she was a man-of-war, enough to give us an offing of two or and probably one of Pizarro's squad three leagues, when it flattened to a ron. This induced the Commodore calm. The night coming on, we lost to order all the officers' cabins to be sight ofthe chase, and were extremely knocked down and thrown overboard, impatient for the return of daylight, with several casks of water and pro in hopes to find that she had been visions which stood between the guns ; becalmed as well as we ; though I so that we had soon a clear ship, ready must confess that her greater distance for an engagement. About 9 o'clock from the land was a reasonable ground we had thick, hazy weather, and a for suspecting the contrary, as we in shower of rain, during which we lost deed found in the morning, to our sight of the chase ; and we were ap great mortification ; for though the prehensive, if the weather should weather continued perfectly clear, we continue, that by going upon the had no sight of the ship from the other tack, or by some other artifice, mast-head. But as we were now she might escape us ; but it clearing
69 CAPTURE OF A SPANISH MERCHANTMAN. 1741.] up in less than an hour, we found bales of a coarser sort of cloth , of that we had both weathered and fore different colours, somewhat like Col reached upon her considerably, and chester baize, called by them Pannia now we were near enough to discover da Tierra, with a few bales of cotton, that she was only a merchantman, and tobacco, which though strong without so much as a single tier of was not ill flavoured. These were guns. About half- an - hour after the principal goods on board her ; but twelve, being then within a reason we found, besides, what was to us able distance of her, we fired four much more valuable than the rest shot amongst her rigging ; on which of the cargo. This was some trunks they lowered their topsails and bore of wrought plate, and twenty-three down to us, but in very great con serons of dollars, each weighing up fusion, their top-gallant-sails and stay wards of 200 lbs. avoirdupois. The sails all fluttering in the wind. This ship's burthen was about 450 tons ; was owing to their having let run she had fifty-three sailors on board, their sheets and halyards just as we both whites and blacks. She came fired at them ; after which not a man from Callao, and had been twenty amongst them had courage enough to seven days at sea before she fell into venture aloft (for there the shot had our hands. She was bound to the passed butjust before) to take them in. port of Valparaiso, in the kingdom of As soon as the vessel came within Chili, 2 and proposed to have returned hail of us, the Commodore ordered thence loaded with corn and Chili them to bring to under his lee-quarter, wine, some gold, dried beef, and small and then hoisted out the boat and sent cordage, which at Callao they convert Mr Saumarez, his first lieutenant, to into larger rope. Our prize had been take possession of the prize, with built upwards of thirty years ; yet as directions to send all the prisoners on they lie in harbour all the winter board the Centurion, but first the months, and the climate is favour officers and passengers. When Mr able, they esteemed it no very great Saumarez came on board them, they age. Her rigging was very indifferent, received him at the side with the as were likewise her sails, which were strongest tokens of the most abject made of cotton. She had only three submission ; for they were all of them 4 - pounders, which were altogether (especially the passengers, who were unserviceable, their carriages being twenty-five in number) extremely ter scarcely able to support them ; and rified, and under the greatest appre hensions of meeting with very severe 1 A seron or seroon is a species of and cruel usage. But the lieutenant packet made and used in Spanish endeavoured, with great courtesy, to America, consisting of a piece of raw dissipate their fright, assuring them bullock's hide, with the hair on, that theirfearswere altogetherground formed while wet into the shape of a less, and that they would find a gener small trunk, and sewed together. In ous enemy in the Commodore, who Kerr's Collection of Voyages, the was not less remarkable for his lenity quantity of dollars taken on this oc and humanity than for his resolution casion is estimated at between £70,000 and courage. The prisoners who were and £80,000. first sent on board the Centurion in 2 Thomas says that those ships formed us that our prize was called annually trade to Valparaiso, ex Nuestra Señora del Monte Carmelo, changing silver in return for gold and was commanded by Don Manuel and coin, the latter being very scarce Zamorra. Her cargo consisted chiefly in Peru. Some ofthe prisoners said of sugar, and great quantities of blue that if the ship had been taken on cloth made in the province of Quito, the return from Chili to Peru, the somewhat resembling our English captors would have found in her as coarse broad-cloths, but inferior to much gold as they had now found them. They had, besides, several silver.
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II . CH . IV. 70 there were no small arms on board, we were at sea during the same time, except a few pistols belonging to the and on their having no news of us in passengers. The prisoners informed eight months after we were known to us that they left Callao in company set sail from St Catherine's, they were with two other ships, which they had fully persuaded that we were either parted with some days before, and shipwrecked, or had perished at sea, that at first they conceived us to be or at least had been obliged to put one of their company ; and by the back again ; for it was conceived im description we gave them of the ship possible for any ships to continue at we had chased from Juan Fernandez, sea during so long an interval : and they assured us she was of their num therefore, on the application of the ber, but that the coming in sight of merchants, and the firm persuasion of that island was directly repugnant to our having miscarried, the embargo the merchants' instructions, who had had been lately taken off.¹ This last article made us flatter expressly forbid it, as knowing that if any English squadron was in those ourselves that, as the enemy was still seas, the Island of Fernandez was most a stranger to our having got round probably the place of their rendezvous. Cape Horn, and the navigation of And now, after this short account 1 Thomas makes a curiously differ of the ship and her cargo, it is neces sary that I should relate the important ent report of Pizarro's despatch, and intelligence which we met with on one much more flattering to English board her, partly from the informa pride. Pizarro, he says, told the Vice tion of the prisoners, and partly from roy of Peru " that, though he himself the letters and papers which fell into had been forced back in such a miser our hands. We here first learned able condition, not having above 80 with certainty the force and destina or 100 of his men living, and his tion of that squadron which cruised ships in so ill a state, that, till suffi off Madeira at our arrival there, and cient reinforcements could come to him afterwards chased the Pearl in our from Old Spain, he could not possibly passage to Port St Julian. This we come into those seas, yet as the Eng now knew was a squadron composed lish were a stubborn and resolute peo of five large Spanish ships, command ple, and daring enough to persist ed by Admiral Pizarro, and purposely obstinately in the most desperate un fitted out to traverse our designs, as dertakings, he did believe some of us has been already more amply related might possibly get round ; but as he in the Third Chapter of the First experimentally knewwhat ofnecessity Book. And we had, at the same we must have suffered in that dreadful time, the satisfaction to find that passage, he made no doubt but we Pizarro, after his utmost endeavours should be in a very weak and defence to gain his passage into these seas, less condition ; he therefore advised had been forced back again into the the Viceroy to fit out all the strength River of Plate, with the loss of two of of shipping he could, and send them his largest ships ; and besides this to cruise at the Island of Juan Fer disappointment of Pizarro, which, nandez, where we must of necessity considering our great debility, was touch to refresh our people, and to no unacceptable intelligence, we fur repair our ships ; and further advised, ther learned that an embargo had that, in case of meeting us, they should been laid upon all shipping in these not stand to fight or cannonade at a seas by the Viceroy of Peru, in the distance, in which possibly we might month of May preceding, on a suppo have the advantage, or make our sition that about that time we might escape, but should board us at once arrive upon the coast. But on the sword in hand ; which must, if well account sent overland by Pizarro of executed, in our weak condition, in his own distresses, part of which they fallibly prove the means of taking knew we must have encountered, as us. ""
1741.] 71 INTELLIGENCE OF SPANISH MOVEMENTS . these seas was restored, we might | search for it, without hauling in for meet with some considerable captures, the main to secure our easting (a cir and might thereby indemnify our- cumstance which at that time we con selves for the incapacity we were now sidered as very unfortunate to us, on under of attempting any of their con- account of the numbers which we lost siderable settlements on shore. And by our longer continuance at sea) , had thus much we were certain of, from we, I say, made the island on the 28th the information of our prisoners, that of May, when we first expected to see whatever our success might be as to it, and were in reality very near it, we the prizes we might light on, we had had doubtless fallen in with some part nothing to fear, weak as we were, from of the Spanish squadron ; and in the the Spanish force in this part of the distressed condition we were then in, world ; though we discovered that we the meeting with a healthy, well-pro had been in most imminent peril from vided enemy was an incident that could the enemy when we least apprehended not but have been perplexing, and it, and when our other distresses were might perhaps have proved fatal, not at the greatest height . For we learn- only to us [ in the Centurion ], but to ed from the letters on board , that the Trial, the Gloucester, and the Pizarro , in the express he despatched Anna pink, which separately joined us, to the Viceroy of Peru after his return and which were each of them less cap to the River of Plate, had intimated able than we were of making any con to him that it was possible some part siderable resistance . I shall only add, at least of the English squadron might that these Spanish ships sent out to in get round ; but that, as he was cer- tercept us had been greatly shattered tain from his own experience that if by a storm during their cruise ; and they did arrive in those seas it must that, after their arrival at Callao, they be in a very weak and defenceless had been laid up. And our prisoners condition , he advised the Viceroy, in assured us, that whenever intelligence order to be secure at all events, to fit was received at Lima of our being in out what ships of force he had, and these seas, it would be at least two send them to the southward , where months before this armament could be in all probability they would intercept again fitted out. The whole of this intelligence was us singly and before we had an oppor tunity of touching anywhere for re as favourable as we in our reduced freshment ; in which case he doubted circumstances could wish for. And not but we should prove an easy con now we were fully satisfied as to the quest. The Viceroy of Peru approved broken jars, ashes, and fish-bones, of this advice, and immediately fitted which we had observed at our first out four ships of force from Callao ; landing at Juan Fernandez ; these one of 50 guns, two of 40 guns, and things being doubtless the relics of the one of 24 guns. Three of them were cruisers stationed off that port. Hav stationed off the Port of Conception , ing thus satisfied ourselves in the and one of them at the Island of Juan material articles, and having got on Fernandez ; and in these stations they board the Centurion most of the pri continued cruising for us till the 6th soners and all the silver, we at eight of June, when, not seeing anything of in the same evening made sail to the us, and conceiving it to be impossible northward, in company with our prize, that we could have kept the seas so and at six the next morning discovered long, they quitted their cruise and re the Island of Juan Fernandez, where turned to Callao, fully satisfied that the next day both we and our prize we had either perished or at least had came to an anchor. And here I can been driven back. As the time of not omit one remarkable incident their quitting their station was but a which occurred when the prize and few days before our arrival at the her crew came into the bay, where the Island of Fernandez , it is evident that rest of the squadron lay. The Span had we made that island on our first iards in the Carmelo had been suffi.
72 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II. Cп . V. ciently informed of the distresses we gers and twenty - three seamen¹ to had gone through, and were greatly assist in navigating the ship, he surprised that we had ever surmounted directed Captain Mitchel to leave the them but when they saw the Trial island as soon as possible, the service sloop at anchor, they were still more requiring the utmost despatch, order astonished that, after all our fatigues, ing him to proceed to the Latitude of we had the industry (besides refitting 5° S. , and there to cruise off the high our other ships) to complete such a land of Paita, 2 at such a distance vessel in so short a time, they taking from shore as should prevent his it for granted that she had been built being discovered. On this station he upon the spot. And it was with great was to continue till he should be difficulty they were prevailed on to joined by the Commodore, which believe that she came from England would be whenever it should be known with the rest of the squadron ; they that the Viceroy had fitted out the at first insisting that it was impossible ships at Callao, or on Mr Anson's such a bauble as that could pass round receiving any other intelligence that Cape Horn, when the best ships of should make it necessary to unite our Spain were obliged to put back. strength. These orders being deliv By the time we arrived at Juan ered to the captain of the Gloucester, Fernandez, the letters found on board and all our business completed, we on our prize were more minutely exam the Saturday following, being the ined ; and it appearing from them 19th of September, weighed our an and from the accounts of our pri chor, in company with our prize, and soners that several other merchant got out of the bay, taking our last men were bound from Callao to Val leave of the Island of Juan Fernandez, paraiso, Mr Anson despatched the and steering to the eastward, with an Trial sloop the very next morning intention of joiningthe Trial sloop in to cruise off the last-mentioned port, her station off Valparaiso. reinforcing her with ten hands from on board his own ship. Mr Anson likewise resolved, on the intelligence CHAPTER V. recited above, to separate the ships under his command, and employ them in distinct cruises, as he thought that ALTHOUGH the Centurion, with her by this means we should not only prize the Carmelo, weighed from the increase our chance for prizes, but Bay of Juan Fernandez on the 19th that we should likewise run less risk of September, leaving the Gloucester of alarming the coast and of being at anchor behind her, yet, by the discovered. And now, the spirits of irregularity and fluctuation of the our people being greatly raised, and | winds in the offing, it was the 22d of their despondency dissipated by this the same month, in the evening, be carnest of success, they forgot all their fore we lost sight of the island ; after past distresses, and resumed their which we continued our course to the wonted alacrity, and laboured inde eastward, in order to reach our station fatigably in completing our water, and to join the Trial off Valparaiso. receiving our lumber, and preparing The next night the weather proved to take our farewell of the island. squally, and we split our main-top But as these occupations took us up sail, which we handed for the pre four or five days, with all our indus 1 Selected from among the prisoners try, the Commodore in that interval directed that the guns belonging to for their strength or their knowledge the Anna pink, being four 6-pounders, of seamanship. four 4-pounders, and two swivels, 2 Where the vessels trading between should be mounted on board the Lima and Panama generally touched Carmelo, our prize. And having sent to deliver part oftheir cargoes fordisper on board the Gloucester six passon sion through the inland parts of Peru.
73 CAPTURE OF THE ARRANZAZU. 1741. ] sent, but got it repaired, and set it and shutting up their windows to again the next morning. And now, prevent any of their lights from being on the 24th, a little before sunset, we seen, they had some chance of escap saw two sail to the eastward, on which ing. But a small crevice in one of our prize stood directly from us, to the shutters rendered all their invoca avoid giving any suspicion of our be tions ineffectual ; for through this ing cruisers ; whilst we in the mean crevice the people on board the Trial time made ourselves ready for an perceived a light, which they chased engagement, and steered towards the till they arrived within gunshot ; and two ships we had discovered, with all then Captain Saunders alarmed them our canvas. We soon perceived that unexpectedly with a broadside, when one of these, which had the appear they flattered themselves they were ance of being a very stout ship, made got out of his reach. However, for directly for us, whilst the other kept some time after they still kept the at a verygreat distance. By 7 o'clock same sail abroad, and it was not ob we were within pistol-shot of the served that this first salute had made nearest, and had a broadside ready to any impression on them ; but just as pour into her, the gunners having the Trial was preparing to repeat her their matches in their hands, and only broadside, the Spaniards crept from waiting for orders to fire ; but as we their holes, lowered their sails, and knew it was now impossible for her to submitted without any opposition. cscape us, Mr Anson, before he per She was one of the largest merchant mitted them to fire, ordered the men employed in those seas, being master to hail the ship in Spanish ; about 600 tons burthen, and was on which the commanding officer on called the [ Nuestra Señora de] Arran board her, who proved to be Mr zazu. She was bound from Callao to Hughes, lieutenant of the Trial, an Valparaiso, and had much the same swered us in English, and informed cargo with the Carmelo we had taken us that she was a prize taken by the before, except that her silver amounted Trial a few days before, and that the only to about £5000 sterling. But to balance this success, we had other sail at a distance was the Trial herself, disabled in her masts. We the misfortune to find that the Trial were soon after joined by the Trial, had sprung her mainmast, and that and Captain Saunders, her com her main-topmast had come by the mander, came on board the Centurion. board ; and as we were all of us stand He informed the Commodore that he ing to the eastward the next morning, had taken this ship the 18th instant ; with a fresh gale at S., she had the that she was a prime sailer, and had additional ill-luck to spring her fore cost him thirty-six hours' chase before mast ; so that now she had not a he could come up with her ; that for mast left on which she could carry some time he gained so little upon sail. These unhappy incidents were her that he began to despair of taking still [further] aggravated by the im her ; and the Spaniards, though alarm possibility we were just then under ed at first with seeing nothing but a of assisting her ; for the wind blew cloud of sail in pursuit of them, the so hard, and raised such a hollow sea Trial's hull being so low in the water that we could not venture to hoist that no part of it appeared, yet know out our boat, and consequently could ing the goodness of their ship, and have no communication with her ; so finding how little the Trial neared that we were obliged to lie to for the them, they at length laid aside their greatest part of forty-eight hours to fears, and recommending themselves attend her, as we could have no to the blessed Virgin for protection, thought of leaving her to herself in began to think themselves secure. her present unhappy situation. And And indeed their success was very as an accumulation to our misfor near doing honour to their Ave Marias; tunes, we were all the while driving for altering their course in the night, to the leeward of our station, at the
74 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II. CH. V. very time when, by our intelligence, | Besides, had a port and proper re we had reason to expect several of the quisites for this purpose been in our enemy's ships would appear upon the possession, yet it would have been coast, who would now gain the port extreme imprudence, in so critical a of Valparaiso without obstruction. conjuncture, to have loitered away so And I am verily persuaded that the much time as would have been neces embarrassment we received from the sary for these operations. The Com dismasting of the Trial, and our ab modore therefore had no choice left sence from our intended station occa him but that of taking out her people sioned thereby, deprived us of some and destroying her ; but at the same time, as he conceived it necessary for very considerable captures.¹ The weather proving somewhat his Majesty's service to keep up the more moderate on the 27th, we sent appearance of our force, he appointed our boat for the captain of the Trial, the Trial's prize (which had been who, when he came on board us, pro often employed by the Viceroy of duced an instrument, signed by him Peru as a man-of-war) to be a frigate self and all his officers, representing in his Majesty's service, manning her that the sloop, besides being dis with the Trial's crew, and giving new masted, was so very leaky in her commissions to the captain and all hull, that even in moderate weather the inferior officers accordingly. This it was necessary to keep the pumps new frigate, when in the Spanish ser constantly at work, and that they vice, had mounted 32 guns ; but she were then scarcely sufficient to keep was now to have only 20, which were her free ; so that in the late gale, the 12 that were on board the Trial, though they had all been engaged at and 8 that had belonged to the Anna the pumps by turns, yet the water pink. When this affair was thus far had increased upon them ; and, upon regulated, Mr Anson gave orders to the whole, they apprehended her to be Captain Saunders to put it in execu atpresent so verydefective, that ifthey tion, directing him to take out of the met with much bad weather they must sloop the arms, stores, ammunition, all inevitably perish, and therefore and everything that could be of any theypetitioned the Commodore to take use to the other ships, and then to some measures for their future safety. scuttle her and sink her. And after But the refitting of the Trial, and the Captain Saunders had seen her de repairing ofher defects, was an under- stroyed, he was to proceed with his taking that in the present conjunc- new frigate (to be called the Trial's ture greatly exceeded his power ; for prize) and to cruise off the high land we had no masts to spare her, we had of Valparaiso, keeping it from him no stores to complete her rigging, nor NNW., at the distance of twelve or had we any port where she might be fourteen leagues. For as all ships hove down and her bottom examined. bound from Valparaiso to the north ward steer that course, Mr Anson 1 Thomas, with regard to the dis proposed by this means to stop any abled condition of the Trial, says : intelligence that might be despatched " This was a great destruction, for to Callao of two of their ships being nowwe had intelligence by the Trial's missing, which might give them ap prize that there were many ships at prehensions of the English squadron sea richly laden, and that they had being in their neighbourhood. The no apprehensions of being attacked Trial's prize was to continue on this by us, having received intelligence station twenty-four days, and if not that our squadron was either put joined by the Commodore at the ex back or destroyed. In the course, piration of that term, she was then therefore, of the forty-eight hours we to proceed down the coast to Pisco, were detained in waiting upon the or Nasca,¹ where she would be certain Trial, I am persuaded we missed the taking many valuable prizes. " 1 Pisco town and bay are about 120
CRUISING OFF VALPARAISO. 75 1741.] to meet with Mr Anson. The Com- | feared some account of us might pos modore likewise ordered Lieutenant sibly be sent to Peru. Saumarez, who commanded the Cen But the most prudent dispositions turion's prize, to keep company with carry with them only a probability of Captain Saunders, both to assist him in success, and can never ensure its cer unloading the sloop, and also that, by tainty ; since those chances, which it spreading in their cruise, there might was reasonable to overlook in delibera be less danger of any of the enemy's tions, are sometimes of most powerful ships slipping by unobserved. These influence in execution. Thus, in the orders being despatched, the Cen present case, the distress of the Trial, turion parted from them at eleven in and the quitting our station to assist the evening on the 27th of September, her (events which no degree of pru directing her course to the southward, dence could either foresee or obviate) with a view of cruising for some days gave an opportunity to all the ships to the windward of Valparaiso. bound to Valparaiso to reach that And now by this disposition of our port without molestation during this ships we flattered ourselves that we unlucky interval ; so that though, had taken all the advantages of the after leaving Captain Saunders, we enemy that we possibly could with were very expeditious in regaining our small force, since our disposition our station, where we got the 29th at was doubtless the most prudent that noon, yet in plying on and off till could be projected . For as we might the 6th of October we had not the suppose the Gloucester by this time good fortune to discover a sail of any to be drawing near her station off the sort. And then, having lost all hopes high land of Paita, we were enabled by our separate stations, to intercept 1 Thomas, who frequently differs all vessels employed either betwixt in date from Mr Walter, says that Peru and Chili to the southward, or " on the 30th we saw the main land betwixt Panama and Peru to the of Chili. This day we began to exer northward. Since the principal trade cise our people with small arms, which from Peru to Chili being carried on was the first time we had done it to the port of Valparaiso, the Cen since we came into those seas, and turion cruising to the windward of which we continued at all proper op Valparaiso would in all probability portunities during the voyage.' 2 Thomas here notices a dissension meet with them, as it is the constant practice of those ships to fall in with among the ships' companies, of which the coast to the windward of that port. Mr Walter, with an obvious official And the Gloucester would, in like bias, says not a word : " On the 5th, manner, be in the way of the trade the Commodore being informed that bound from Panama or the northward there were murmurings amongst the to any part of Peru ; since the high people, because the prize-money was land off which she was stationed is not immediately divided, ordered the constantly made by all ships in that articles of war to be read ; and after voyage. And whilst the Centurion that remonstrated to them on the and Gloucester were thus situated for danger of mutiny, and said he had interrupting the enemy's trade, the heard the reason of their discontent, Trial's prize and Centurion's prize but assured them their properties were as conveniently stationed for were secured by act of parliament as preventing all intelligence, by inter firmly as any one's own inheritance, cepting all ships bound from Valpa and that the money, plate, &c. , were raiso to the northward ; for it was on weighed and marked in public ; so board these vessels that it was to be that any capable person, ifhe pleased, might take an inventory of the whole. or 130 miles south-east from Lima ; He then read an account of the parti Nasca Point is about 100 miles in the culars, and told them they might (if same direction from Pisco. they pleased) make choice of any per
76
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II. CH. V. of making any advantage by a longer they had seen no vessel since they stay, we made sail to the leeward of separated from us. The little success we all had, and the port, in order to join our prizes ; but when we arrived on the station our certainty that had any ships been appointed for them, we did not meet stirring in these seas for some time with them, though we continued there past we must have met with them, four or five days. We supposed that made us believe that the enemy at some chase had occasioned their leav Valparaiso, on missing the two ships ing their station, and therefore we we had taken, had suspected us to be proceeded down the coast to the high in the neighbourhood, and had conse land of Nasca, where Captain Saun quently laid an embargo on all the ders was directed to join us. Here trade in the southern ports. We like we arrived on the 21st, and were in wise apprehended that they might by great expectation of meeting with this time be fitting out the men-of-war some of the enemy's ships on the at Callao , for we knew that it was no coast, as both the accounts of former uncommon thing for an express from voyages and the information of our Valparaiso to reach Lima in twenty prisoners assured us that all ships nine or thirty days, and it was now bound to Callao constantly make this more than fifty since we had taken land, to prevent the danger of running our first prize. These apprehensions to the leeward of the port. But not of an embargo along the coast, and of withstanding the advantages of this the equipment of the Spanish squad station we saw no sail till the 2d of ron at Callao, determined the Com November, when two ships appeared in modore to hasten down to the leeward sight together ; we immediately gave of Callao, and to join Captain Mitchel them chase, but soon perceived that (who was stationed off Paita) as soon they were the Trial's and Centurion's as possible, that, our strength being prizes. As they had the wind of us, united, we might be prepared to give we brought to and waited their com the ships from Callao a warm reception ing up, when Captain Saunders came if they dared to put to sea. With this on board us, and acquainted the Com viewwe bore away the same afternoon, modore that he had cleared the Trial taking particular care to keep at such pursuant to his orders, and having a distance from the shore that there scuttled her he remained by her till might be no danger of our being dis she sank, but that it was the 4th of covered from thence ; for we knew October before this was effected ; for that all the country ships were com there ran so large and hollow a sea, manded, under the severest penalty, that the sloop, having neither masts not to sail by the port of Callao with nor sails to steady her, rolled and out stopping ; and as this order was pitched so violently that it was im constantly complied with, we should possible for a boat to lie alongside of undoubtedly be known for enemies if her for the greatest part of the time. we were seen to act contrary to it. In And during this attendance on the this new navigation, not being cer sloop they were all driven so far to tain whether we might not meet the the northwest, that they were after Spanish squadron in our route, the wards obliged to stretch a long way Commodore took on board the Cen to the westward to regain the ground turion part of his crew with which he they had lost, which was the reason had formerly manned the Carmelo. that we had not met with them on And now, standing to the northward, their station as we expected. We we, before night came on, had a view found they had not been more fortu of the small island called St Gallan, ¹ nate in their cruise than we were, for which bore from us NNE. half E , son to take an inventory for them, or 1 Just to the southward of the well buy their parts. This spread a visible known Chincha Islands, in the open "" joy, and gave content to every one. ing of Pisco Bay.
1741.3 77 CAPTURE OF THE SANTA TERESA DE JESUS . about seven leagues distant. This third lieutenant, Mr Dennis, was sent island lies in the Latitude of about in the boat with sixteen men to take 14° S., and about five miles to the possession of the prize, and to return northward of a high land called Morro the prisoners to our ship. This ship Viejo, or the Old Man's Head. I was named the Santa Teresa de Jesus, mention this island and the high land built at Guayaquil, of about 300 tons near it more particularly, because be burthen, and was commanded by Bar tween them is the most eligible station tolome Urrunaga, a Biscayer. She on that coast for cruising upon the was bound from Guayaquil to Callao ; enemy, as all ships bound to Callao, her loading consisted of timber, cacao, whether from the northward or the cocoa-nuts, tobacco, hides, Pito thread southward, run well in with the land (which is very strong, and is made of in this part. By the 5th of Novem a species of grass), Quito cloth, wax, ber, at three in the afternoon, we & c. The specie on board her was in were advanced within view of the considerable, being principally small high land of Barranca, lying in the silver money, and not amounting to Latitude of 10° 36′ S., bearing from more than £170 sterling. It is true, us NE. by E. , distant eight or nine her cargo was of great value, could leagues ; and an hour and a half we have disposed of it ; but the Span afterwards we had the satisfaction we iards having strict orders never to had so long wished for, of seeing a ransom their ships, all the goods that sail. She first appeared to leeward, we took in these seas, except what and we all immediately gave her little we had occasion for ourselves, chase ; but the Centurion so much were of no advantage to us. Indeed, outsailed the two prizes, that we soon though we could make no profit there ran them out of sight, and gained by ourselves, it was some satisfaction considerably on the chase. However, to us to consider that it was so much night coming on before we came up really lost to the enemy, and that the with her, we about 7 o'clock lost despoiling them was no contemptible sight of her, and were in some per branch of that service in which we plexity what course_to_steer ; but at were now employed by our country.¹ last Mr Anson resolved, as we were then before the wind, to keep all his 1 Thomas gives a quaint and amus sails set, and not to change his course. ing account of the use the squadron For though we had no doubt but the made of those stores so much despised chase would alter her course in the by the Chaplain : " The 7th, we were night ; yet, as it was uncertain what employed in getting aboard several tack she would go upon, it was thought necessary stores, as planks, cordage, more prudent to keep on our course, and the like, for the use of our squad as we must by this means unavoid ron. The 9th, we brought from on ably near her, than to change it on board the Teresa ten serons of cocoa, conjecture, when if we should mis one of wax, and 180 fathom of three take we must infallibly lose her. and a half rope. The 10th, we Thus, then, we continued the chase brought from on board our first prize, about an hour and half in the dark, the Carmelo, the following goods, some one or other on board us con viz., cloth, two bales ; baize, five stantly imagining they discerned her ditto ; sugar, 182 loaves ; straw mats, sails right ahead of us ; but at last two ; tar, one skin ; raisins, three Mr Brett, then our second lieutenant, bales ; indigo, four serons ; cotton did really discover her about four cloth, one bale ; hats, two cases and points on the larboard-bow, steering twenty-five loose ones skins, one off to the seaward. We immediately parcel ; chocolate, one bag ; camlet, clapped the helm a-weather, and stood one bale and two parcels ; silks, one for her, and in less than an hour came box ; lead, four pigs ; and combs, After such an up with her ; and having fired four- one small parcel. teen shots at her, she struck. Our enumeration, one is better able to
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B.II. Cп. V. Besides our prize's crew, which | guardian and protector. He was par amounted to forty-five hands, there ticularly chosen for this purposeby Mr were on board her ten passengers, con Anson, as he seemed to be extremely sisting of four men and three women, interested in all that concerned the who were natives of the country, born women, and had at first declared that of Spanish parents, and three black he was married to the youngest of female slaves that attended them. them ; though it afterwards appeared, The women were a mother and her two bothfrom the information ofthe rest of daughters, the eldest about twenty the prisoners and other circumstances, one, and the youngest about fourteen. that he had asserted this with a view It is not to be wondered at that the better to secure them from the women of these years should be exces insults they expected on their first sively alarmed atfalling into thehands falling into our hands. By this com of an enemy whom, from the former passionate and indulgent behaviour of outrages of the Buccaneers, and by the Commodore, the consternation of the artful insinuations of their priests, our female prisoners entirely subsided, they had been taught to consider as and they continued easy and cheer the most terrible and brutal of all ful during the whole time they were mankind. These apprehensions, too, with us, as I shall have occasion to were in the present instance exagger mention more particularly hereafter. I have before observed, that at the ated by the singular beauty of the youngest of the women, and the riot beginning of this chase the Centurion ous disposition which they might well ran her two consorts out of sight, for expect to find in a set of sailors that which reason we lay by all the night, had not seen a womanfor neara twelve after we had taken the prize, for Čap month. Full of these terrors , the tain Saunders and Lieutenant Saum. women all hid themselves when our arez to join us, firingguns and making officer went on board ; and, when false fires every half hour, to prevent they were found out, it was with their passing us unobserved ; but they great difficulty that he could persuade were so far astern that they neither them to approach the light. How heard nor saw any of our signals, and ever, he soon satisfied them, by the were not able to come up with us till When they had humanity of his conduct and his broad daylight. assurances of their future security and joined us, we proceeded together to had they that honourable treatment, the northward, being now four sail nothing to fear ; and the Commodore in company. We here found the sea, being informed of the matter, sent for many miles round us, of a beauti directions that they should be con ful red colour : this, upon examina tinued on board their own ship, with tion, we imputed to an immense the use of the same apartments, and quantity of spawn spread upon its with all the other conveniences they surface ; and taking up some of the had enjoyed before, giving strict water in a wine-glass, it soon changed orders that they should receive no from a dirty aspect to a clear crystal, kind of inquietude or molestation with only some red globules of a slimy whatever. And that they might be nature floating on the top. And now, the more certain of having these having a supply of timber on board orders complied with, or of complain our new prize, the Commodore ordered ing if they were not, the Commodore our boats to be repaired, and a swivel permitted the pilot, who in Spanish gun-stock to be fixed in the bow, both ships is generally the second person of the barge and pinnace, in order to on board, to stay with them as their increase their force, in case we should be obliged to have recourse to them understand how ships in those days for boarding ships or for any attempts shore. As we stood from hence on could keep at sea for years without their crews losing the habits aul sem to the northward nothing remarkable occurred for two or three days, though blance of civilisation. 78
79 1741. ] CAPTURE OF THE NUESTRA SENORA DEL CARMEN. we spread our ships in such a manner her. Lieutenant Brett, who com that it was not probable any vessel of manded the barge, came up with her the enemy could escape us. In our first, about 9 o'clock, and running run along this coast we generally ob alongside of her, he fired a volley of served that there was a current which small shot between the masts, just set us to the northward at the rate over the heads of the people on of ten or twelve miles each day. board, and then instantly entered And now, being in about 8° of S. with the greatest part of his men ; Latitude, we began to be attended but the enemy made no resistance, with vast numbers of flying fish and being sufficiently frightened by the bonitos, which were the first we saw dazzling of the cutlasses , and the after our departure from the coast of volley they had just received. Lien Brazil. But it is remarkable, that on tenant Brett ordered the sails to be the east side of South America they trimmed, and bore down to the Com extended to a much higher latitude modore, taking up in his way the two When he was arrived than they do on the west side ; for pinnaces. we did not lose them on the coast of within about four miles of us, he put Brazil till we approached the southern off in the barge, bringing with him a tropic. The reason for this diversity number of the prisoners , who had given is doubtless the different degrees of him some material intelligence which heat obtaining in the same latitude he was desirous the Commodore should on different sides of that continent.¹ be acquainted with as soon as pos On the 10th of November we were sible. On his arrival we learned that three leagues south of the southern the prize was called Nuestra Señora most Island ofLobos, lying in the Lat. del Carmen, of about 270 tons burthen ; of 60° 27' S. There are two islands she was commanded by Marcos Mo of this name : this, called Lobos de rena,2 a native of Venice, and had on la Mar ; and another, which lies to board forty-three mariners . She was the northward of it, very much re deep laden with steel, iron, wax, sembling it in shape and appearance, pepper, cedar, plank, snuff, rosaries, and often mistaken for it, called European bale goods, powder-blue, We were now cinnamon , Romish indulgences, and Lobos de Tierra. drawing near to the station appointed other species of merchandise. And to the Gloucester ; for which reason, though this cargo, in our present fearing to miss her, we made an easy circumstances , was but of little value sail all night. The next morning, to us, yet with respect to the Span at daybreak, we saw a ship in shore, iards it was the most considerable and to windward, plying up to the capture that fell into our hands in coast. She had passed by us with this part of the world ; for it amounted the favour of the night, and we, soon to upwards of 400,000 dollars prime This ship was perceiving hernot to be the Gloucester, cost at Panama. got our tacks on board and gave her bound to Callao, and had stopped at chase ; but it proving very little wind, Paita in her passage to take in a re so that neither of us could make cruit of water and provisions, and much way, the Commodore ordered had not left that place above twenty the barge, his pinnace, and the Trial's four hours before she fell into our pinnace, to be manned and armed, hands. and to pursue the chase and board I have mentioned that Mr Brett had received some important intelli 1 Here we omit a long digression gence from the prisoners, which he " on the heat and cold of different endeavoured to acquaint the Commo The first climates, and on the varieties which dore with immediately. occur in the same place in different person he received it from (though parts of the year, and in different upon further examination it was con places lying in the same degrees of latitude. 2 Or Marco Marina.
80 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II . CH. VI. firmed by the other prisoners) was one and, in the opinion of the prisoners, John Williams, an Irishman, whom she might be able to sail the succeed he found on board the Spanish vessel. ing morning. The character they gave us of this Williams was a Papist, who worked his passage from Cadiz, and had vessel, on which the money was to travelled over all the kingdom of be shipped, left us little reason to Mexico as a pedlar. He pretended believe that our ship, which had been that by this business he had got 4000 in the water near two years, could or 5000 dollars ; but that he was em have any chance of coming up with barrassed by the priests, who knew he her, if we once suffered her to escape had money, and was at last stripped out of the port. And therefore, as of all he had. He was, indeed, at we were now discovered, and the present all in rags, being but just got coast would be soon alarmed, and as out of Paita gaol, where he had been our cruising in these parts any longer confined for some misdemeanour ; he would answer no purpose, the Com expressed great joy upon seeing his modore resolved to surprise the place, countrymen, and immediately in having first minutely informed him formed them, that a few days before self of its strength and condition, a vessel came into Paita, where the and being fully satisfied that there master of her informed the Governor was little danger of losing many of that he had been chased in the offing our men in the attempt. This sur by a very large ship, which, from her prise of Paita, besides the treasure it size, and the colour of her sails, he promised us, and its being the only was persuaded must be one of the enterprise it was in our power to English squadron. This we then undertake, had these other advan conjectured to have been the Glouces tages attending it, that we should in ter, as we afterwards found it was. all probability supply ourselves with The Governor, upon examining the great quantities of live provision, of master, was fully satisfied of his re which we were at this time in want. lation, and immediately sent away And we should likewise have an op an express to Lima to acquaint the portunity of setting our prisoners on Viceroy therewith ; and the royal shore, who were now very numerous, officer residing at Paita, being appre and made a greater consumption of hensive of a visit from the English, our food than our stock that remained was busily employed in removing the was capable of furnishing long. In King's treasure, and his own, to Piura, all these lights, the attempt was a a town within land about fourteen most eligible one, and what our neces leagues distant. We further learned sities, our situation, and every pru from our prisoners, that there was a dential consideration prompted us to. very considerable sum of money, ¹ be How it succeeded, and how far it an longing to some merchants at Lima, swered our expectations, shall be the that was now lodged at the custom subject of the following Chapter. house at Paita ; and that this was in tended to be shipped on board a vessel which was then in the port of Paita, CHAPTER VI. and was preparing to sail with the utmost expedition, being bound for the Bay of Sonsonnate, on the coast THE town of Paita is situated in the of Mexico, in order to purchase a part Latitude of 50 ° 12′ S. , in a most bar of the cargo of the Manilla ship. | ren soil, composed only of sand and This vessel at Paita was esteemed a slate ; the extent of it is but small, prime sailer, and had just received a containing in all less than 200 fami new coat of tallow on her bottom ; lies. The houses are only ground floors, the walls built of split cane and 1 According to Thomas's account, 400,000 dollars. 2 By examining the prisoners.
81 PREPARATION MADE TO ATTACK PAYTA. 1741. ] mud, and the roofs thatched with wind is generally contrary, the passage leaves. These edifices, though ex by sea is very tedious and fatiguing ; tremely slight, are abundantly suffi but by land there is a tolerably good cient for a climate where rain is con road parallel to the coast, with many sidered as a prodigy, and is not seen stations and villages for the accommo in many years ; so that it is said that dation of travellers. The town of a small quantity of rain falling in this Paita is itself an open place ; its sole country in the year 1728, it ruined a protection and defence is [a small fort great number of buildings, which or redoubt near the shore of the bay]. mouldered away, and, as it were, It was of consequence to us to be well melted before it. The inhabitants of informed of the fabric and strength of Paitaare principally Indians and black this fort ; and by the examination of slaves, or at least a mixed breed, the our prisoners we found that there were whites being very few. The port of eight pieces of cannon mounted in it, Paita, though in reality little more but that it had neither ditch nor out than a bay, is esteemed the best on work, being only surrounded by a that part of the coast, and is indeed a plain brick wall ; and that the garri very secure and commodious anchor son consisted of only one weak com age. It is greatly frequented by all pany, but the town itself might pos vessels coming from the north, since sibly arm 300 men more. Mr Anson, having informed himself it is here only that the ships from Acapulco, Sonsonnate, Realejo, and of the strength of the place, resolved Panama can touch and refresh in their to attempt it that very night.¹ We passage to Callao ; and the length of were then about twelve leagues distant thesevoyages (thewind forthe greatest from the shore, far enough to prevent part of the year being full against our being discovered, yet not so far them) renders it impossible to perform but that, by making all the sail we them without calling upon the coast could, we might arrive in the bay for a recruit of fresh water. It is with our ships in the night. How true, Paita is situated on so parched ever, the Commodore prudently con a spot that it does not itself furnish a sidered that this would be an impro drop of fresh water, or any kind of per method of proceeding, as our ships, greens or provisions, except fish and being such large bodies, might be a few goats ; but there is an Indian easily discovered at a distance even in town called Colan, about two or three the night, and might thereby alarm leagues distant to the northward, the inhabitants and give them an op whence water, maize, greens, fowls, portunity of removing their valuable &c. , are brought to Paita on balsas, or effects. He therefore, as the strength floats, for the convenience of the ships of the place did not require our whole that touch here ; and cattle are some force, resolved to attempt it with our times broughtfrom Piura, atown which boats only, ordering the eighteen lies about fourteen leagues up in the oared barge, and our own and the country. The water brought from Trial's pinnaces, on that service ; and Colan is whitish, and of a disagree | having picked out fifty-eight men to able appearance, but is said to be very man them, well provided with arms wholesome ; for it is pretended bythe and ammunition, he gave the com inhabitants that it runs through large mand of the expedition to Lieutenant woods of sarsaparilla, and that it is Brett, and gave him his necessary sensibly impregnated therewith. This orders. And the better to prevent port of Paita, besides furnishing the the disappointment and confusion northern trade bound to Callao with which might arise from the dark water and necessaries, is the usual ness of the night, and the ignorance place where passengers from Acapulco of the streets and passages of the orPanama, bound to Lima, disembark ; place ; two of the Spanish pilcts for as it is 200 leagues from hence to 1 The 12th of November 1741. Callao, the port of Lima, and as the F
82 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II. CH. V1. were ordered to attend the lieuten- | instantly put off in their boat, row ant, and to conduct him to the ing towards the fort, shouting and most convenient landing-place, and crying, " The English ! The English were afterwards to be his guides on dogs !" by which the whole town was shore. And that we might have the suddenly alarmed ; and our people greater security for their faithful be- soon observed several lights hurrying haviour on this occasion, the Commo- backwards and forwards in the fort, dore took care to assure all our pri- and other marks of the inhabitants soners, that if the pilots acted properly being in great motion. Lieutenant they should all of them be released Brett on this encouraged his men to and set on shore at this place ; but in pull briskly up to the shore that they case of any misconduct or treachery, might give the enemy as little time he threatened them that the pilots as possible to prepare for their defence. should be instantly shot, and that he However, before our boats could reach would carry all the rest of the Span- the shore, the people in the fort had iards who were on board him prisoners got ready some of their cannon, and to England. So that the prisoners pointed them towards the landing themselves were interested in our suc- place ; and though in the darkness of cess ; and therefore we had no reason the night it might be well supposed to suspect our conductors either of that chance had a greater share than negligence or perfidy. And on this skill in their direction, yet the first occasion I cannot but remark a singu- shot passed extremely near one of the lar circumstance of one of the pilots boats, whistling just over the heads employed by us in this business. It of the crew. This made our people seems (as we afterwards learned) he redouble their efforts, so that they had been taken by Captain Clipperton had reached the shore, and were in above twenty years before, and had part disembarked, by the time the been forced to lead Clipperton and second gun fired. As soon as our his people to the surprise of Truxillo, men landed, they were conducted by a town within land to the southward one of the Spanish pilots to the en of Paita, where, however, he contrived trance of a narrow street, not above to alarm his countrymen, and to save fifty yards distant from the beach, them, though the place was taken. where they were covered from the fire Now that the only two attempts on of the fort ; and being formed in the shore, which were made at so long an best manner the shortness of the time interval from each other, should be would allow, they immediately march guided by the same person, and he, ed for the parade, which was a large too, a prisoner both times, and forced square at the end of this street, the upon the employ contrary to his in- fort being one side of the square and clination, is an incident so very extra- the Governor's house another. In ordinary that I could not help taking this march (though performed with notice of it. tolerable regularity) the shouts and During our preparations, the ships clamours of threescore sailors who themselves stood towards the port had been confined so long on ship with all the sail they could make, board, and were nowfor the first time being secure that we were yet at too on shore in an enemy's country-joy great a distance to be seen. But ous as they always are when they land, about 10 o'clock at night, the ships and animated besides in the present being then within five leagues of the case with the hopes of an immense place, Lieutenant Brett, with the pillage-the huzzas, I say, of this boats under his command, put off, spirited detachment, joined with the and arrived at the mouth of the bay noise of their drums, and favoured by without being discovered ; but no the night, had augmented their num Booner had he entered it than some bers, in the opinion of the enemy, to of the people on board a vessel riding at least 300 : by which persuasion the at anchor there perceived him, who inhabitants were so greatly intimi
1741.1
83 FLIGHT OF THE GOVERNOR OF PAYTA. dated that they were much more soli slight bruise by a ball which grazed o citous about the means of their flight his wrist. Indeed, another of the than of their resistance. So that company, the Honourable Mr Keppel, though upon entering the parade our son to the Earl of Albemarle, had a people received a volley from the mer very narrow escape ; for having on a chants who owned the treasure then jockey cap, one side of the peak was in the town, and who, with a few shaved off close to his temple by a others, had ranged themselves in a ball, which, however, did him no other gallery that ran round the Governor's injury. And now Lieutenant Brett, house, yet that post was immediately after this success, placed a guard at abandoned upon the first fire made by the fort, and another at the Governor's our people, who were thereby left in house, and appointed sentinels at all the avenues of the town, both to pre quiet possession of the parade. On this success Lieutenant Brett vent any surprise from the enemy, divided his men into two parties, and to secure the effects in the place ordering one of them to surround the from being embezzled. And this be Governor's house, and if possible to ing done, his next care was to seize on secure the Governor, whilst he himself the custom-house where the treasure with the other marched to the fort lay, and to examine if any of the in with an intent to force it. But, con habitants remained in the town, that trary to his expectation, he entered it he might know what further precau without opposition ; ¹ for the enemy, tions it was necessary to take. But on his approach, abandoned it, and he soon found that the numbers left made their escape over the walls. By behind were no ways formidable : for this means the whole place was mas the greatest part of them (being in bed tered in less than a quarter of an when the place was surprised) had run hour's time from the first landing, away with so much precipitation, that with no other loss than that of one they had not given themselves time man killed on the spot, and two to put on their clothes. And in this wounded ; one of whom was the Span precipitate rout the Governor was not ish pilot of the Teresa, who received a the last to secure himself, for he fled betimes, half-naked, leaving his wife, 1 " On our getting possession of the a young lady of about seventeen years 66 castle, " says Thomas, our command of age to whom he had been married ing officer very inconsiderately ordered but three or four days, behind him ; the guns to be thrown over the walls, though she too was afterwards carried which accordingly was executed ; but off in her shift by a couple of sentinels, some time after, reflecting on the ill just as the detachment ordered to in consequence which might attend that vest the house arrived before it. This proceeding, he ordered two of them to escape of the Governor was an unpleas be got up and remounted. " ing circumstance, as Mr Anson had 2 In Thomas's narrative we are told particularly recommended it to Lieu more particularly : " We lost one man, tenant Brett to secure his person if PeterObrian the Commodore'ssteward, possible, in hopes that by that means who was shot through the breast by a musket ball ; and had two wounded, 3 "These people, " says Thomas con to wit, Arthur Lusk, a quarter-master, temptuously enough, " having enjoyed and the Spanish pilot of the Teresa, a long peace, and being enervated by whom we had made use of as a guide ; the luxury so customary in those parts, and I have had it reported from seve their arms in a bad condition, and no ral officers then on shore, that our person of experience or courage to men ran to the attack, and fired in so head them, it is no wonder that they irregular a manner, that it was, and made so small a resistance, and were still remains a doubt, whether those all driven out of the town in less were not shot by our half-an-hour by only forty-nine 77 people rather than men. "9 than by the enemy.'
84 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. II . CH. VI. we might be able to treat for the ran that interval. I must observe, that som of the place ; but it seems his after the boats were gone off we lay alertness rendered it impossible to by till 1 o'clock in the morning, and seize him. The few inhabitants who then, supposing our detachment to be remained were confined in one of the near landing, we made an easy sail for churches under a guard, except some the bay. About seven in the morning stout Negroes who were found in the we began to open the bay, and soon place ; these, instead of being shut up, after we had a view of the town ; and were employed the remaining part of though we had no reason to doubt of the night to assist in carrying the the success of the enterprise, yet it treasure from the custom-house and was with great joy that we first dis other places to the fort : however, covered an infallible signal of the cer there was care taken that they should tainty of our hopes this was by be always attended by a file of mus means of our perspectives, for through keteers. them we saw an English flag hoisted The transporting the treasure from on the flagstaff of the fort, which to the custom-house to the fort was the us was an incontestible proof that our principal occupation of Mr Brett's people had got possession of the town. people after he had got possession of We plied into the bay with as much the place. But the sailors, while expedition as the wind, which then they were thus employed, could not blew off shore, would permit us, and be prevented from entering the houses at eleven the Trial's boat came on which lay near them, in search of pri board us, laden with dollars and vate pillage. And, the first things church-plate ; and the officer who which occurred to them being the commanded her informed us of the clothes which the Spaniards in their preceding night's transactions, such as flight had left behindthem, and which, we have already related them. About according to the custom ofthe country, two in the afternoon we came to an were most of them either embroidered anchor in ten fathoms and a half, at or laced, our people eagerly seized a mile and a half distance from the these glittering habits, and put them town, and were consequently near on over their own dirty trousers and enough to have a more immediate jackets ; not forgetting, at the same intercourse with those on shore. And time, the tie or bag-wig, and laced now we found that Mr Brett had hat, which were generally found with hitherto gone on in collecting and the clothes. When this practice was removing the treasure without inter once begun, there was no preventing ruption ; but that the enemy had the whole detachment from imitating rendezvoused from all parts of the it ; and those who came latest into country on a hill at the back of the the fashion, not finding men's clothes town, where they made no inconsider sufficient to equip themselves, were able appearance : for, amongst the obliged to take up with women'sgowns rest of their force, there were 200 and petticoats, which (provided there horse seemingly very well armed and was finery enough) they made no mounted, and, as we conceived, pro scruple of putting on and blending perly trained and regimented, being with their own greasy dress. So that, furnished with trumpets, drums, and These troops paraded when a party ofthem thus ridiculously standards. metamorphosed first appeared before about the hill with great ostentation, Mr Brett, he was extremely surprised sounding their military music, and at their appearance, and could not practising every art to intimidate us immediately be satisfied they were his (as our numbers on shore were by this time not unknown to them), in hopes own people. These were the transactions of our that we might be induced by our fears detachment on shore at Paita the first to abandon the place before the pillage night and now to return to what was completed. But we were not so was done on board the Centurion in ignorant as to believe that this body
1741.1 PAYTA of horse, which seemed to be what the enemy principally depended on, would dare to venture in streets and among houses, even had their numbers been three times as great ; and therefore, notwithstanding their menaces, we went on, as long as the daylight last cd, calmly, in sending off the treasure, and in employing the boats to carry on board the refreshments, such as hogs, fowls, &c., which we found here in great abundance. But at night, to prevent any surprise, the Commodore sent on shore a reinforcement, who posted themselves in all the streets leading to the parade ; and for their greater security they traversed the streets with barricades six feet high and the enemy continuing quiet all night, we at daybreak returned again to our labour of loading the boats and sending them off. By this time we were convinced of what consequence it would have been to us had fortune seconded the pru dent views of the Commodore, by per mitting us to have secured the Gover nor. For we found in the place many storehouses full of valuable effects, which were useless to us at present, and such as we could not find room for on board. But had the Governor been in our power, he would in all probability have treated for a ransom, which would have been extremely advantageous both to him and us ; Whereas he being now at liberty, and having collected all the force of the country for many leagues round, and having even got a body of militia from Piura, he was so elated with his num bers, and so fond of his new military command, that heseemed nottotrouble himself about the fate of his govern ment. So that though Mr Anson sent several messages to him by the inha bitants who were in our power, desir ing him to enter into a treaty for the ransom of the town and goods, giving him at the same time an intimation that he should be far from insisting on a rigorous equivalent, but perhaps might be satisfied with some live cattle and a few necessaries for the use of the squadron, and assuring him too, that if he would not condescend at least to
TAKEN. 85 treat, he would set fire to the town and all the warehouses : yet the gover nor was so imprudent and arrogant, that he despised all these reiterated applications, and did not deign even to return the least answer to them. On the second day of our being in possession of the place, several Negro slaves deserted from the enemy on the hill, and, coming into the town, voluntarily entered into our service. One of these was well known to a gentleman on board, who remembered him formerly at Panama. And the Spaniards without the town being in extreme want of water, many of their slaves crept into the place by stealth, and carried away several jars of water to their masters on the hill ; and though some of them were seized by our men in the attempt, yet the thirst amongst the enemy was so pressing, that they continued this practice till we left the place. And now, on this second day, we were assured both by the deserters and by these prisoners we took, that the Spaniards on the hill, who were by this time increased to a formidable number, had resolved to storm the town and fort the suc ceeding night ; and that one Gordon, a Scotch Papist, and captain of a ship in those seas, was to have the com mand of this enterprise. But we, notwithstanding, continued sending off our boats, and prosecuted our work without the least hurry or precipita tion till the evening ; and then a reinforcement was again sent on shore by the Commodore, and Lieutenant Brett doubled his guards at each of the barricades ; and our posts being 1 Thomas says : "The country there abouts being for many miles round quite barren and sandy, without either water or any other thing necessary for life, and the nearest town to them, named as I think Santa Cruz, whence relief might be got, being a day and a half or two days' journey off, the people who had left the town were in a starving condition, and we had melancholy accounts of several dying among them for want chiefly of water 99 during our small stay. '
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. B. II. CH. VI. 86 connected by means ofsentinels placed by good fortune stood at some distance within call of each other, and the from the other houses), and then he wholebeingvisited by frequent rounds, was to abandon the place and to come attended with a drum, these marks of on board. These orders were punctu our vigilance, which the enemy could ally complied with ; for Mr Brett not be ignorant of, as they could immediately set his men to work to doubtless hear the drum, if not the distribute pitch, tar, and other com calls of the sentinels ; these marks, I bustibles (of which great quantities say, of our vigilance and of our readi were found here) into houses situated ness to receive them, cooled their re in different streets of the town ; so solution, and made them forget the that, the place being fired in many vaunts of the preceding day ; so that quarters at the same time, the destruc we passed the second night with as tion might be more violent and sud little molestation as we had done the den, and the enemy, after our depar first. ture, might not be able to extinguish We had finished sending the treasure it. These preparations being made, on board the Centurion the evening he in the next place ordered the can before ; so that the third morning, non which he found in the.fort, to be being the 15th of November, the boats nailed up ; 3 and then, setting fire to were employed in carrying off the those houses which were most wind most valuable part of the effects that ward, he collected his men, and remained in the town.¹ And the Com marched towards the beach, where modore intending to sail this day, he the boats waited to carry them off. about 10 o'clock, pursuant to his pro And the part of the beach where he mise, sent all his prisoners, amount intended to embark being an open ing to eighty-eight, on shore, giving place without the town, the Spaniards orders to Lieutenant Brett to secure on the hill, perceiving he was retreat them in one of the churches under a ing, resolved to try if they could not strict guard till he was ready to embark precipitate his departure, and thereby his men. Mr Brett was at the same lay some foundation for their future time ordered to set the whole town on boasting. And for this purpose a fire, except the two churches (which small squadron of their horse, consist ing of about sixty, picked out as I suppose for this service, marched 66 1 " Which, " by Thomas's account, chiefly consisted of rich brocades, down the hill with much seeming laced cloths, bales of fine linens and resolution ; so that, had we not been woollens, britannias, stays, and the prepossessed with a juster opinion of like ; together with a great number their prowess, we might have sus of hogs, some sheep and fowls, cases pected that, nowwe were on the open of Spanish brandies and wines, a great beach with no advantage of situation , quantityofonions, olives, sweet-meats, they would certainly have charged us. and many other things too tedious to But we presumed (and we were not name, all which the sailors hoped mistaken) that this was mere ostenta would havebeenequally divided among tion ; for, notwithstanding the pomp the ships ' companions, but they found and parade they advanced with, Mr Brett had no sooner ordered his men themselves disappointed . " 2 The burning of Paita, inflicting to halt and face about, but the enemy cruel injury not on the Spanish Gov stopped their career, and never dared ernment but on an unoffending and to advance a step farther. When our people were arrived at industrious community, hasbeen gene rally censured as a violation of the their boats, and were ready to go on laws of civilised warfare. Earl Stan board, they were for some time de hope, usually slow to blame, says the layed by missing one of their number; act " has imprinted a deep blot on but being unable, by their mutual the glory of Lord Anson's expedi tion. * Spiked.
THE BURNING OF PAYTA. 87 1741.] inquiries amongst each other, to in | enemy (though they flocked down in form themselves where he was left, or great numbers) could possibly put a by what accident he was detained, stop to it, or prevent the entire de they, after considerable delay, re struction of the place, and all the solved to get into their boats and to merchandise contained therein. Our detachment under Lieutenant put off without him. And the last man was actually embarked, and the Brett having safely joined the squad boats just putting off, when they ron, the Commodore prepared to leave He heard him calling to them to take the place the same evening. him in. The town was by this time found, when he first came into the so thoroughly on fire, and the smoke bay, six vessels of the enemy at covered the beach so effectually, that anchor ; one of which was the ship they could scarcely see him, though which, according to our intelligence, they heard his voice. The lieuten was to have sailed with the treasure ant instantly ordered one of the boats to the coast of Mexico, and which, to his relief, which found him up to as we were persuaded she was a good the chin in water, for he had waded sailer, we resolved to take with us. as far as he durst, being extremely The others were two snows, a bark, frightened with the apprehensions of and two row - galleys of thirty - six falling into the hands of an enemy, oars a-picce ; these last, as we were enraged, as they doubtless were, with afterwards informed, with many others the pillage and destruction of their of the same kind built at different town. On inquiring into the cause ports, were intended to prevent our of his staying behind, it was found landing in the neighbourhood of that he had taken that morning too Callao ; for the Spaniards, on the large a dose of brandy, which had first intelligence of our squadron thrown him into so sound a sleep, and its force, expected that we that he did not awake till the fire would attempt the city of Lima. came near enough to scorch him. He The Commodore, having no occasion was strangely amazed on first opening for these other vessels, had ordered his eyes, to see the place all on a blaze the masts of all five of them to be cut on one side, and several Spaniards and away on his first arrival ; and now, Indians not far from him on the other. at his leaving the place, they were The greatness and suddenness of his towed out of the harbour, and scuttled fright instantly reduced him to a state and sunk ; and the command of the of sobriety, and gave him sufficient remaining ship, called the Solidad, presence of mind to push through the being given to Mr Hughes, the lieu thickest of the smoke, as the like tenant of the Trial, who had with liest means to escape the enemy ; him a crew of ten men to navigate and making the best of his way to her, the squadron towards midnight the beach, he ran as far into the weighed anchor and sailed out of the water as he durst (for he could not bay, being now augmented to six sail, swim) before he ventured to look that is, the Centurion, and the Trial back. prize, together with the Carmelo, the By the time our people had taken Teresa, the Carmen, and our last their comrade out of the water, and acquired vessel, the Solidad. And now, before I entirely quit were making the best of their way for the squadron, the flames had taken the account of our transactions at this possession of every part of the town, place, it may not, perhaps, be impro and had got such hold, both by means per to give a succinct relation of the of combustibles that had been distri booty we made here, and of the loss buted for that purpose, and by the the Spaniards sustained. I have be slightness of the materials of which fore observed that there were great the houses were composed and their quantities of valuable effects in the aptitude to take fire, that it was town ; but, as the greatest part of sufficiently apparent no efforts of the them were what we could neither
88 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. II . CH. VI. dispose of nor carry away, the total | never beenfrom home before, lamented amount of this merchandise can only his captivity in the most moving be rudely guessed at. But the Span manner, regretting in very plaintive iards, in the representations they made terms his parents, his brothers, his to the Court of Madrid (as we were sisters, and his native country, of all afterwards assured), estimated their which he was fully persuaded he had whole loss at a million and a half of taken his last farewell, believing that dollars ; and when it is considered he was nowdevoted for the remaining that no small part of the goods we part of his life to an abject and cruel burned there were of the richest and servitude ; nor was he singular in his most expensive species, as road fears, for his companions on board, cloths, silks, cambrics, velvets, &c., and indeed all the Spaniards that I cannot but think their valuation came into our power, had the same sufficiently moderate. As to our desponding opinion of their situation. part, our acquisition, though incon Mr Anson constantly exerted his siderable in comparison of what we utmost endeavours to efface these in destroyed, was yet in itself far from human impressions they had received despicable ; for the wrought plate, of us ; always taking care that as dollars, and other coin which fell into many of the principal people among our hands, amounted to upwards of them as there was room for should £30,000 sterling, besides several rings, dine at his table by turns ; and giving bracelets, and jewels, whose intrinsic the strictest orders, too, that they value we could not then determine ; should at all times, and in every cir and over and above all this, the plun cumstance, be treated with the utmost der which became the property of the decency and humanity. But, not immediate captors was very great ; so withstanding this precaution, it was that upon the whole it was by much generally observed that for the first the most important booty we made day or two they did not quit their upon that coast. fears, but suspected the gentleness of There remains, before I take leave their usage to be only preparatory to of this place, another particularity to some unthought-of calamity. How be mentioned, which, on account of ever, being confirmed by time, they the great honour which our national grew perfectly easy in their situation, character in those parts has thence and remarkably cheerful, so that it was received, and the reputation which often disputable whether or no they our Commodore in particular has considered their being detained by us thereby acquired, merits a distinct as a misfortune. For the youth I and circumstantial discussion. It have above mentioned, who was near has been already related that all the two months on board us, had at last prisoners taken by us in our preced so far conquered his melancholy sur ing prizes were put on shore and dis mises, and had taken such an affec charged at this place ; amongst which tion to Mr Anson, and seemed so there were some persons of consider much pleased with the manner of life, able distinction, particularly a youth totally different from all he had ever of about seventeen years of age, son of seen before, that it is doubtful to me the Vice-President of the Council of whether, if his own opinion had been Chili. As the barbarity ofthe Buccan taken, he would not have preferred a eers, and the artful use the [ Spanish] voyage to England in the Centurion to ecclesiastics had made of it, had filled the being set on shore at Paita, where thenatives of those countries with the he was at liberty to return to his most terrible ideas of the English cru country and his friends. This conduct of the Commodore to elty, we always found our prisoners, at their first coming on board us, to be ex his prisoners, which was continued tremely dejected and under great hor without interruption or deviation, ror and anxiety. In particular, this gave them all the highest idea of his youth, whom I last mentioned, having humanity and benevolence, and in
GENEROUS TREATMENT OF PRISONERS. 1741.) 89 duced them likewise (as mankind are | would be scarcely sufficient to render fond of forming general opinions) to it credible. And, indeed, we were entertain very favourable thoughts of afterwards informed that both he and the whole English nation. But what the rest of our prisoners had not been ever they might be disposed to think silent on this head, but had, both at of Mr Anson before the taking of the Lima and other places, given the Teresa, their veneration for him was greatest encomiums to our Commo prodigiously increased by his conduct dore ; the Jesuit in particular, as we towards those women whom (as I were told, having on his account in have already mentioned) he took in terpreted in a lax and hypothetical that vessel. For the leaving them sense that article of his Church which in the possession of their apartments, asserts the impossibility of heretics the strict orders given to prevent all being saved. his people on board from approaching And let it not be imagined that the them, and the permitting the pilot to impression which the Spaniards hence stay with them as their guardian, were received to our advantage is a matter measures that seemed so different from of small import ; for, not to mention what might be expected from an ene several of our countrymen who have my and an heretic, that the Spaniards already felt the good effects of these on board, though they had themselves prepossessions, the Spaniards are a experienced his beneficence, were sur nation whose good opinion of us is prised at this new instance of it ; and doubtless of more consequence than the more so, as all this was done with that of all the world besides. Not out his ever having seen the women, only as the commerce we have former though the two daughters were both ly carried on with them, and perhaps esteemed handsome, and the youngest may again hereafter, is so extremely was celebrated for her uncommon valuable, but also as the transacting beauty. The women themselves, too, it does so immediately depend on the were so sensible of the obligations honour and good faith of those who they owed him for the care and atten are entrusted with its management. tion with which he had protected But, however, [even] had no national them, that they absolutely refused to conveniencies attended it, the Com go on shore at Paita till they had modore's equity and good temper been permitted to wait on him on would not less have deterred him board the Centurion, to return him from all tyranny and cruelty to those thanks in person. Indeed, all the whom the fortune of war had put into prisoners left us with the strongest his hands. I shall only add, that assurances of their grateful remem by his constant attachment to these brance of his uncommon treatment. humane and prudent maxims he has A Jesuit, in particular, whom the acquired a distinguished reputation Commodore had taken, and who was amongst the Creole Spaniards which an ecclesiastic of some distinction, is not confined merely to the coast could not help expressing himself with of the South Seas, but is extended great thankfulness for the civilities through all the Spanish settlements he and his countrymen had found on in America : so that his name is fre board, declaring that he should con quently to be met with in the mouths sider it as his duty to do Mr Anson of¹ most of the Spanish inhabitants cí justice at all times ; adding, that his that prodigious empire. " usage of the men prisoners was such 1 Ed. 1776 : " Wasuniversally men as could never be forgotten, and such as he could never fail to acknowledge tioned with honour and applause by. " 2 Byron, who met, during his resi and recite upon all occasions ; but that his behaviour to the women was so dence as a prisoner on parole in Chili, extraordinary, and so extremely hon some of the released captives, says : ourable, that he doubted all the regard " They all spoke in the highest terms due to his own ecclesiastical character of the kind treatment they had re
90
ANSON'
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ROUND THE WORLD . [B.II. CH . VII . the plunder gotten at Paita, which CHAPTER VII. those who had acted on shore had appropriated to themselves, and con WHEN we got under sail from the sidered it as a reward for the risks road of Paita (which, as I have already they had run and the resolution they observed, was about midnight on the had shown in that service. But those 16th of November) we stood to the who had remained on board considered westward ; and in the morning the this as a very partial and unjust pro Commodore gave orders that the whole cedure, urging that, had it been left squadron should spread themselves, to their choice, they should have pre in order to look out for the Glouces ferred the acting on shore to the con ter ; for we now drew near to the tinuing on board ; that their duty, station where Captain Mitchel had while their comrades were on shore, been directed to cruise, and hourly was extremely fatiguing, for besides expected to get sight of him, but the the labour of the day they were con whole day passed without seeing him. stantly under arms all night to secure And now a jealousy which had the prisoners, whose numbers exceeded taken its rise at Paita, between those their own, and of whom it was then who had been ordered on shore for the necessary to be extremely watchful, attack and those who had continued to prevent any attempts they might on board, grew to such a height, that have formed in that critical conjunc the Commodore, being made acquaint ture ; that upon the whole it could ed with it, thought it necessary to not be denied but that the presence interpose his authority to appease it.¹ of a sufficient force on board was as The ground of this animosity was necessary to the success of the enter prise, as the action of the others on ceived ; and some of them told us shore ; and therefore those who had they were so happy on board the Cen continued on board insisted that they turion, that they would not have been could not be deprived of their share sorry if the Commodore had taken of the plunder, without manifest in them with him to England . " Still justice. These were the contests more remarkable, however, is Captain amongst our men, which were carried Basil Hall's testimony, in his " South on with great heat on both sides ; and America :" " Lord Anson's proceed though the plunder in question was a ings are still traditionally known at very trifle in comparison of the trea Paita ; and it is curious to observe sure taken in the place (in which there that the kindness with which that was no doubt but those on board had sagacious officer invariably treated his an equal right), yet as the obstinacy Spanish prisoners is, at the distance of sailors is not always regulated by of eighty years, better known and the importance of the matter in dis more dwelt upon by the inhabitants pute, the Commodore thought it neces of Paita than the capture29 and wanton sary to put a stop to this ferment be destruction of the town.' times. And accordingly, the morn 1 Thomas tells a very different ing after our leaving Paita, he ordered story about this division of the spoil : all hands upon the quarter-deck, " The 22d, a division was made of where, addressing himself to those the plunder of Paita, and the Com who had been detached on shore, he modore not appearing in that affair, commended their behaviour, and it was done at the pleasure, and to thanked them for their services on the entire satisfaction of five or six that occasion ; but then, representing (no doubt) very disinterested officers ; to them the reasons urged by those and, indeed, most things of this na who had continued on board for an ture, during the course of the voyage equal distribution of the plunder, he being managed with the same discre told them that he thought these rea tion and honour, no room was left for sons very conclusive, and that the complainingof particularpartialities. " expectations of their comrades were S
E
91 THE PRIZE TAKEN BY THE GLOUCESTER. 1741.] justly founded ; and therefore he or other a large boat or launch which the dered, that not only the men, but all Gloucester's barge came up with near the officers likewise, who had been the shore. The prisoners on board employed in taking the place, should this vessel alleged that they were very produce the whole of their plunder poor, and that their loading consisted immediately upon the quarter-deck ; only of cotton, though the circum and that it should be impartially stances in which the barge surprised divided amongst the whole crew, in them seemed to insinuate that they proportion to each man's rank and were more opulent than they pretend commission. And to prevent those ed to be, for the Gloucester's people who had been in possession of the found them at dinner upon pigeon plunder from murmuring at this dimi pie served up in silver dishes. How nution of their share, the Commodore ever, the officer who commanded the added, that as an encouragement to barge having opened several of the others who might be hereafter em jars on board to satisfy his curiosity, ployed on like services, he would give and finding nothing in them but cot his entire share to be distributed ton, he was inclined to believe the amongst those who had been detached account the prisoners gave him ; but for the attack of the place. Thus the cargo being taken into the Glouces this troublesome affair, which, if per ter, and there examined more strictly, mitted to have gone on, might perhaps they were agreeably surprised to find have been attended with mischievous that the whole was a very extraordin consequences, was by the Commo ary piece of false package, and that dore's prudence soon appeased, to the there was concealed amongst the cot general satisfaction of the ship's com ton, in every jar, a considerable quan pany ; not but there were some few tity of double doubloons and dollars whose selfish dispositions were unin to the amount, in the whole, of near fluenced by the justice of this pro £12,000. This treasure was going to cedure, and who were incapable of Paita, and belonged to the same mer discerning the force of equity, however chants who were the proprietors of glaring, when it tended to deprive the greatest part of the money we had them of any part of what they had taken there ; so that, had this boat once got into their hands. escaped the Gloucester, it is probable This important business employed her cargo would have fallen into our the best part of the day after we came hands. Besides these two prizes which from Paita. And now at night, hav we have mentioned, the Gloucester's ing no sight of the Gloucester, the people told us that they had been in Commodore ordered the squadron to sight of two or three other ships of bring to, that we might not pass her the enemy, which had escaped them ; in the dark. The next morning we and one of them we had reason to be again looked out for her, and at ten lieve, from some of our intelligence, we saw a sail, to which we gave chase ; was of an immense value. and at two in the afternoon we came Being nowjoined by the Gloucester near enough to her to discover her to and her prize, it was resolved that we be the Gloucester, with a small vessel in tow. About an hour after we were prize ofthe Gloucester were two horses, joined by them, and then we learned which being, I suppose, fat, and pro that Captain Mitchel, in the whole bably better food than their salt beef time of his cruise, had only taken or pork, they killed and eat them ; two prizes, one of them being a small and this, I imagine, gave ground to snow, whose cargo consisted chiefly that fiction which one ofthe spurious of wine, brandy, and olives in jars, accounts of our voyage has given, of with about £7000 in specie ; and the our eagerly hunting and eating wild horses, whereas in reality we never * Called the Del Oro. saw nor heard #Thomas Bays : " On board this our voyage. ",, of a wild horse during
92
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II . CH . VII. should stand to the northwards, and the general expectation, it cannot be make the best of our way either to denied but these views would have Cape St Lucas, in California, or to been the most prudent that could have CapeCorrientes on the coast of Mexico. been thought of. But in examining Indeed the Commodore, when at Juan the papers which were found on board Fernandez, had determined with him the Carmelo, the first prize we took, self to touch in the neighbourhood of we learned (though I then omitted to Panama, and to endeavour to get mention it) that our attempt against some correspondence overland with Carthagena had failed, and that there the fleet under the command of Ad was no probability that our fleet in miral Vernon. For, when we de that part of the world would engage parted from England, we left a large in any new enterprise that would at force at Portsmouth, which was in all facilitate this plan. And therefore tended to be sent to the West Indies, Mr Anson gave over all hopes of being there to be employed in an expedition reinforced across the Isthmus, and against some of the Spanish settle consequently had no inducement at ments. And Mr Anson taking it for present to proceed to Panama, as he granted that this enterprise had suc was incapable of attacking the place ; ceeded, and that Porto Bello perhaps and there was great reason to believe might be then garrisoned by British that by this time there was a general troops, he hoped that on his arrival embargo on all the coast. at the Isthmus he should easily pro The only feasible measure, then, cure an intercourse with our country which was left us, was to get as soon men on the other side, either by the as possible to the southern parts of Indians, who were greatly disposed in California, or to the adjacent coast of our favour, or even by the Spaniards Mexico, there to cruise for the Manilla themselves, some of whom, for proper galleon, which we knew was now at rewards, might be induced to carry sea, bound to the port of Acapulco. on this intelligence, which, after it And we doubted not to get on that was once begun, might be continued station time enough to intercept her, with very little difficulty. So that for this ship does not [usually] arrive Mr Anson flattered himself that he at Acapulco till towards the middle of might by this means have received a January, and we were now but in the reinforcement of men from the other middle of November, and did not con side, and that, by settling a prudent ceive that our passage thither would plan of operations with our command cost us above a month or five weeks ; ers in the West Indies, he might so that we imagined we had near twice have taken even Panama itself, which as much time as was necessary for our would have given to the British na purpose. Having determined to go to Quibo, tion the possession of that Isthmus, whereby we should have been in effect we directed our course to the north masters of all the treasures of Peru, ward, being eight sail in company, and should have had in our hands an and consequently having the appear equivalent for any demands, however ance of a very formidable fleet ; and extraordinary, which we might have onthe 19th, at daybreak, we discovered been induced to have made on either Cape Blanco, bearing SSE. half E., of the branches of the House of Bour seven miles distant. This cape lies bon. Such were the projects which the in the Latitude of 4° 15′ S. , and is Commodore resolved in his thoughts always made by ships bound either to at the Island of Juan Fernandez, not windward or to leeward, so that off withstanding the feeble condition to this cape is a most excellent station which he was then reduced. And to cruise upon the enemy. By this indeed, had the success of our force in time we found that our last prize, the the West Indies been answerable to Solidad, was far from answering the character given her of a good sailer ; 1 See Note 3, page 15. and she and the Santa Teresa delay.
93 THE 18LAND OF QUIBO. 1741. ] ing us considerably, the Commodore On the 27th, Captain Mitchel hav ordered them both to be cleared of ing finished the clearing of his largest. everything that might prove useful prize, she was scuttled and set on fire ; to the rest of the ships, and then to but we still consisted of five ships be burned. Having given proper in and were fortunate enough to find structions, and a rendezvous to the them all good sailers, so that we Gloucester and the other prizes, we never occasioned any delay to each proceeded in our course for Quibo ; other. Being now in a rainy climate, and on the 22d, in the morning, saw which we had been long disused to, the Island of Plata, ¹ bearing E. , dis we found it necessary to calk the tant four leagues. Here one of our sides of the Centurion, to prevent the prizes was ordered to stand close in rain-water from running into her. with it, both to discover if there were On the 3d of December we had a view any ships between that island and the of the Island of Quibo ; the east end continent, and likewise to look out for of which then bore from us NNW., a stream of fresh water which was re four leagues distant, and the Island ported to be there, and which would of Quicara WNW. , at about the same have saved us the trouble of going to distance. Here we struck ground Quibo ; but she returned without hav with sixty-five fathoms of line, and ing seen any ship or finding any found the bottom to consist of grey water. At three in the afternoon, sand with black specks. When we Point Manta bore SE. by E., seven had thus got sight of the land, we miles distant ; and there being a town found the wind to hang westerly ; and of the same name in the neighbour therefore, night coming on, wethought hood, Captain Mitchel took this op it advisable to stand off till morning, portunity of sending away several of as there are said to be some shoals in his prisoners from the Gloucester in the entrance of the channel. At six the Spanish launch. The boats were the next morning, Point Mariato bore now daily employed in distributing NE. half N. , three or four leagues provisions on board the Trial and distant. In weathering this point all other prizes to complete their stock the squadron, except the Centurion, for six months ; and that the Cen were very near it ; and the Gloucester, turion might be the better prepared being the leewardmost ship, wasforced to give the Manilla ship (one of which to tack and stand to the southward, we were told was of an immense size) so that we lost sight of her. At nine, a warm reception, the carpenters were the Island Sebaco bore NW. by N. , ordered to fix eight stocks in the four leagues distant ; but the wind main and fore tops, which were pro still proving unfavourable, we were perly fitted for the mounting of swivel obliged to ply on and off for the suc ceeding twenty-four hours, and were guns. However, On the 25th we had a sight of the frequently taken aback. Island of Gallo, bearing ESE. half E., at eleven the next morning the wind four leagues distant ; and hence we happily settled in the SSW. , and we crossed the Bay of Panama with a NW. bore away for the SSE. end of the is course, hoping that this would have land, and about three in the afternoon carried us in a direct line to the Island entered Canal Bueno, passing round of Quibo. But we afterwards found a shoal which stretches off about two that we ought to have stood more to miles from the south point of the the westward ; for the winds in a short island. This Canal Bueno, or Good time began to incline to that quarter, Channel, is at least six miles in and made it difficult for us to gain breadth ; and as we had the wind the island. large, we kept in a good depth of water, generally from twenty-eight to 1 So called, it is said, because here thirty- three fathoms, and came not Sir Francis Drake divided the treasure within a mile and a half distance of the breakers ; though in all proba he had captured in the South Seas.
94 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II. CH. VIII. bility, if it had been necessary, we The channel it ran in was very irreg might have ventured much nearer ular ; for it was entirely formed of without incurring the least danger. rock, both its sides and bottom being At seven in the evening we came to made up of large detached blocks ; an anchor in thirty-three fathoms and by these the course of the water muddy ground ; the south point of was frequently interrupted : for in the island bearing SE. by S. , a re some places it ran sloping with a markable high part of the Island W. rapid but uniform motion, while in by N. , and the Island Sebaco E. other parts it tumbled over the ledges by N. of rocks with a perpendicular descent. All the neighbourhood of this stream was a fine wood ; and even the huge masses of rock which overhung the CHAPTER VIII. water, and which, by their various projections, formed the inequalities THE next morning, after our coming of the channel, were covered with to an anchor, an officer was despatched lofty forest trees. Whilst the Com on shore to discover the watering- modore, and those who were with place, who having found it, returned him, were attentively viewing this before noon ; and then we sent the place, and remarking the different long-boat for a load of water, and at blendings of the water, the rocks, and the same time we weighed and stood the wood, there came in sight (as it farther in with our ships. At two were with an intent still to heighten we came again to an anchor in twenty and animate the prospect) a prodigious two fathoms, with a bottom of rough flight of macaws, which, hovering gravel intermixed with broken shells, over this spot, and often wheeling and the watering-place now bearing from playing on the wing about it, afforded us NW. half N. , only three quarters a most brilliant appearance by the of a mile distant. This Island of glittering of the sun on their varie Quibo is extremely convenient for gated plumage ; so that some of the wooding and watering ; for the trees spectators cannot refrain from a kind grow close to the high-water mark, of transport when they recount the and a large rapid stream of fresh complicated beauties which occurred water runs over the sandy beach into in this extraordinary water-fall. the sea so that we were little more In this expedition, which the boat than two days in laying in all the made along the eastern side of the • island, though they met with no in wood and water we wanted. Whilst the ship continued here at habitants, yet they saw many huts anchor, the Commodore, attended by upon the shore, and great heaps of some of his officers, went in a boat to shells of fine mother-of-pearl scattered examine a bay which lay to the north up and down in different places. ward ; and they afterwards ranged all These were the remains left by the along the eastern side of the island. pearl fishers from Panama, who often And in the places where they put on frequent this place in the summer shore in the course of his expedition, season ; for the pearl oysters, which they generally found the soil to be ex are to be met with everywhere in the tremelyrich, andmetwith great plenty Bay of Panama, are so plenty at ofexcellent water. In particular, near Quibo, that by advancing a very little the NE. point of the island they dis way into the sea, you might stoop covered a natural cascade which sur down and reach themfrom the bottom. passed, as they conceived, everything They are usually very large, and out of this kind which human art or of curiosity we opened some of them industry has hitherto produced. It with a view of tasting them, but we was a river of transparent water, about found them extremely tough and un forty yards wide, which ran down a palatable. declivity of near 150 yards in length. Though the pearl oyster was in
95 1741. ] FROM QUIBO TO THE COAST OF MEXICO. capable of being eaten, yet the sea at money intended for purchasing a car this place furnished us with another go of provisions at Cheripe. On the 12th of December we were dainty in the greatest plenty and per fection. This was the turtle, of which at last relieved from the perplexity we took here what quantitywe pleased . we had suffered by the separation of There are generally reckoned four the Gloucester ; for on that day she species of turtle, that is, the trunk joined us, and informed us that in turtle, the loggerhead, the hawksbill, tacking to the southward, on our first and the green_turtle. The two first arrival, she had sprung her fore-top are rank and unwholesome ; the mast, which had disabled her from hawksbill (which furnishes the tor working to windward, and prevented toise-shell) is but indifferent food, her from joining us sooner. "And now though better than the other two ; we scuttled and sunk the Jesu Nazar but the green turtle is generally eno, the prize we took last ; and hav esteemed, by the greatest part of those ing the greatest impatience to get into who are acquainted with its taste, to a proper station for the galleon, we be the most delicious of all eatables ; stood all together to the westward, and that it is a most wholesome food leaving the Island of Quibo (notwith we are amply convinced by our own standing all the impediments we met experience. For we fed on this last with) in about nine days after our species, or the green turtle, for near first coming in sight of it. four months, and consequently, had it been in any degree noxious, its ill effects could not possibly have escaped us. • CHAPTER IX. In three days' time we had com pleted our business at this place, and ON the 12th of December we stood were extremelyimpatient to put to sea, from Quibo to the westward ; and the that we might arrive in time enough same day the Commodore delivered on the coast of Mexico to intercept fresh instructions to the captains of the Manilla galleon . But the wind the men-of-war, and the commanders being contrary detained us a night, of our prizes, appointing them the and the next day, when we got into rendezvous they were to make, and the offing (which we did through the the courses they were to steer in case same channel by which we entered) of a separation. And first they were we were obliged to keep hovering directed to use all possible despatch about the island in hopes of getting in getting to the northward of the sight of the Gloucester, which, as I harbour of Acapulco, where they were have in the last Chapter mentioned, to endeavour to fall in with the land was separated from us on our first between the Latitudes of 18° and 19° ; arrival. It was the 9th of December, thence they were to beat up the coast, in the morning, when we put to sea ; at eight or ten leagues' distance from and continuing to the southwardof the shore, till they came abreast of the island, looking out for the Glou Cape Corrientes, in the Latitude of cester, we, on the 10th, at five in the 20° 20′. When they arrived there, afternoon, discerned a small sail to they were to continue cruising on that the northward of us, to which we station till the 14th of February ; gave chase, and coming up with her and then they were to proceed to the took her. She proved to be a bark middle island of the Tres Marias, in from Panama, bound to Cheripe, an the Latitude of 21° 25' , bearing from inconsiderable village on the contin Cape Corrientes NW. by N. , twenty ent, and was called the Jesu Nazer five leagues distant. And if at this eno. She had nothing on board but island they did not meet the Com some oakum, about a ton of rock salt, modore, they were there to recruit and between £30 and £40 in specie, their wood and water, and then to most of it consisting of small silver make the best of their way to the
96 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II . CH . IX. Island of Macao, on the coast of would not last long ; but the next China. These orders being distri- day we had the satisfaction to find buted to all the ships, we had little that the wind did not only continue doubt of arriving soon upon our in- in the same quarter, but blew with so tended station, as we expected, upon much briskness and steadiness, that increasing our offing from Quibo, to we now no longer doubted of its be fall in with the regular trade-wind. ing the true trade-wind. And as we But, to our extreme vexation, we advanced apace towards our station, were baffled for near a month, either our hopes began to revive, and our with tempestuous weather from the former despair by degrees gave place western quarter, or with dead calms to more sanguine prejudices ; for and heavy rains, attended with a though the customary season of the sultry air ; so that it was the 25th of arrival of the galleon at Acapulco was December before we got a sight of the already elapsed, yet we were by this Island of Cocos, which, by our reck- time unreasonable enough to flatter oning was only 100 leagues from the ourselves that some accidental delay continent ; and we had the mortifica- might, for our advantage, lengthen out tion to make so little way that we did her passage beyond its usual limits. not lose sight of it again in five days. When we got into the trade-wind, This island we found to be in the we found no alteration in it till the Latitude of 5° 20' N. It has a high 17th of January, when we were ad hummock towards the western part, vanced to the Latitude of 12° 50′ ; but which descends gradually, and at last on that day it shifted to the west terminates in a low point to the east ward of N. This change we imputed ward. From the Island of Cocos we to our having hauled up too soon, stood W. by N., and were till the though we then esteemed ourselves 9th of January in running 100 leagues full seventy leagues from the coast, more . We had at first flattered our which plainly shows that the trade selves that the uncertain weather and wind does not take place but at a western gales we met with were owing considerable distance from the con to the neighbourhood ofthe continent, tinent. After this the wind was not from which, as we got more distant, so favourable to us as it had been ; we expected every day to be relieved however, we still continued to ad by falling in with the eastern trade vance, and on the 26th of January, wind. But as our hopes were so long being then to the northward of Aca baffled, and our patience quite ex pulco, we tacked and stood to the hausted, we began at length to de eastward, with a view of making the spair of succeeding in the great land. In the preceding fortnight we purpose we had in view, that of caught some turtle on the surface intercepting the Manilla galleon ; of the water, and several dolphins, and this produced a general dejection bonitos, and albicores. One day, as amongst us, as we had at first con one of the sail-makers' mates was sidered this project as almost infal fishing from the end of the jib-boom, lible, and had indulged ourselves in he lost his hold, and dropped into the the most boundless hopes of the sea ; and the ship, which was then advantages we should thence receive. going at the rate of six or seven knots, However, our despondency was at went directly over him. But, as we last somewhat alleviated by a favour had the Carmelo in tow, we instantly able change of the wind ; for on the called out to the people on board her, 9th of January a gale for the first who threw him over several ends of time sprung up from the NE., and on ropes, one of which he fortunately this we took the Carmelo in tow, as caught hold of, and twisting it round the Gloucesterdid the Carmen, making his arm, they hauled him into the all the sail we could to improve the ship without his having received any advantage, for we still suspected that other injury than a wrench in his it was only a temporary gale, which arm, of which he soon recovered.
MISLED BY A LIGHT ON SHORE. 97 1742.1 When, on the 26th of January, we that of her supposed consort, we now stood to the eastward, we expected by estimated by round millions. But our reckonings to have fallen in with when the morning broke, and day the land on the 28th ; but though the light came on, we were most strangely weather was perfectly clear, we had no and vexatiously disappointed by find sight of it at sunset, and therefore we ingthat the light which had occasioned continued on our course, not doubting all this bustle and expectancy was but we should see it by the next morn only a fire on the shore. Indeed, the ing. About ten at night we discov circumstances of this deception are so ered a light on the larboard - bow, extraordinary as to be scarcely cred bearing from us NNE. The Trial's ible ; for by our run during the night, prize, too, which was about a mile and the distance of the land in the ahead of us, made a signal at the morning, there was no doubt to be same time for seeing a sail ; and as made but this fire, when we first dis we had none of us any doubt but covered it, was about twenty-five what we saw was a ship's light, we leagues from us and yet I believe were all extremely animated with a there was no person on board who firm persuasion that it was the Manilla doubted of its being a ship's light, or galleon, which had been so long the of its being near at hand. It was, object of our wishes. And what added indeed, upon a very high mountain, to our alacrity was our expectation of and continued burning for several days meeting with two of them instead of afterwards ; it was not a volcano, but one, for we took it for granted that rather, as I suppose, stubbleorheath set the light in view was carried in the on fire for some purpose of agriculture. top of one ship for a direction to her At sun-rising, after this mortifying consort. We immediately cast off the delusion, we found ourselves about Carmelo, and pressed forward with all nine leagues off the land, which ex our canvas, making a signal for the tended from the NW. to E. half N. Gloucester to do the same. Thus we On this land we observed two remark. chased the light, keeping all our hands able hummocks, such as are usually at their respective quarters, under an called paps, which bore N. from us ; expectation of engaging in the next these a Spanish pilot and two Indians, half hour, as we sometimes conceived who were the only persons amongst us the chase to be about a mile distant, that pretended to have traded in this and at other times to be within reach part of the world, affirmed to be over of our guns ; and some on board us the harbour of Acapulco. Indeed, we positively averred that besides the very much doubted their knowledge light they could plainly discern her of the coast ; for we found these paps sails. The Commodore himself was so to be in the Latitude of 17° 56′, where fully persuaded that we should be soon as those over Acapulco are said to be alongside of her, that he sent for his in 17° only ; and we afterwards found first lieutenant, who commanded be our suspicions of their skill to be well tween decks, and directed him to see all grounded . However, they were very the great guns loaded with two round confident, and assured us that the shotforthefirstbroadside, and afterthat height of the mountains was itself an with one round-shot and one grape ; infallible mark of the harbour ; the strictlycharging him, atthesame time, coast, astheypretended (though falsely) not to suffer a gun to be fired till he, the being generally low to the eastward Commodore, should give orders, which and westward of it. he informed the lieutenant would not And now, being in the track of the be till we arrived within pistol-shot Manilla galleon, it was a great doubt of the enemy. In this constant and with us (as it was near the end of eager attention we continued all night, January) whether she was or was not always presuming that another quarter 1 See Dampier's description of the of an hour would bring us up with this Manilla ship, whose wealth, with place, Chapter IX.
98 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. II.CH.IX. arrived. But, examining our prisoners | had coasted along shore thirty-two about it, they assured us that she was leagues ; that in this whole range sometimes known to come in after the they met chiefly with sandy beaches middle of February ; and they endea of a great length, over which the sea voured to persuade us that the fire we broke with so much violence that it had seen on shore was a proof that she was impossible for a boat to land ; that was as yet at sea, it being customary, at the end of their run they could just as they said, to make use of these fires discover two paps at a very great dis as signals for her direction when she tance to the eastward, which from continued longer out than ordinary. their appearance and their latitude On this information, strengthened by they concluded to be those in the our propensity to believe them in a neighbourhood of Acapulco ; but that, matter which so pleasingly flattered not having a sufficient quantity of our wishes, we resolved to cruise for fresh water and provision for their her for some days ; and we accordingly passage thither and back again, they spread our ships at the distance of were obliged to return to the Commo twelve leagues from the coast, in such dore, to acquaint him with their dis a manner that it was impossible she appointment. On this intelligence we should pass us unobserved . However, all made sail to the eastward, in order not seeing her soon, we were at inter to get into the neighbourhood of that vals inclined to suspect that she had port ; the Commodore resolving to gained her port already ; and as we send the barge a second time upon the now began to want a harbour to refresh same enterprise when we were arrived our people, the uncertainty of our pre within a moderate distance. And the sent situation gave us great uneasi next day, which was the 12th of Feb ness, and we were very solicitous to get ruary, we being by that time consider somepositive intelligence, which might ably advanced, the barge was again either set us at liberty to consult our despatched, and particular instructions necessities, if the galleon was arrived, given to the officers to preserve them or might animate us to continue on selves from being seen from the shore. our present cruise with cheerfulness, On the 13th, we espied a high land to if she was not. With this view the the eastward, which we first imagined Commodore, after examining our pri to bethat over the harbour of Acapulco ; soners very particularly, resolved to but we afterwards found that it was send a boat, under colour of the night, the high land of Seguateneo, where into the harbour of Acapulco, to see there is a small harbour of which we if the Manilla ship was there or not, shall have occasion to make more one of the Indians being very positive ample mention hereafter. And now, that this might be done without the having waited six days without any boat itself being discovered. To exe news of our barge, we began to be cute this project, the barge was de uneasy for her safety ; but on the spatched the 6th of February, with a seventh day, that is, on the 19th of sufficient crew and two officers, who February, she returned. The officers took with them a Spanish pilot, and informed the Commodore that they had the Indian who had insisted on the discovered the harbour of Acapulco, practicability of this measure, and had which they esteemed to bear from us undertaken to conduct it. Our barge ESE. at least fiftyleagues distant ; that did not return to us again till the 11th, on the 17th, about two in the morn when the officers acquainted Mr Anson ing, they were got within the island that, agreeable to our suspicion, there that lies at the mouth of the harbour, was nothing like a harbour in the place and yet neither the Spanish pilot nor where the Spanish pilots had at first the Indian who were with them could asserted Acapulco to lie ; that, when give them any information where they they had satisfied themselves in this particular, they steered to the east 1 Chequetan ; see Chapter XII, ward in hopes of discovering it, and
NEWS OF THE MANILLA GALLEON. 1742. ] 99 then were ; but that, while they were | they at the same time told us that the lying upon their oars in suspense what galleon had delivered her cargo and to do, being ignorant that they were was taking in water and provisions then at the very place they sought for, for her return, and that the Viceroy they discerned a small light upon the of Mexico had by proclamation fixed surface of the water, on which they her departure from Acapulco to the instantly plied their paddles, and 14th of March, N.S. This last news moving as silently as possible towards was most joyfully received by us, as it, they found it to be in a fishing we had no doubt but she must cer canoe, which they surprised, with tainly fall into our hands, and as it three Negroes that belonged to it. It was much more eligible to seize her seems the Negroes at first attempted on her return than it would have been to jump overboard, and being so near to have taken her before her arrival, the land, they would easily have as the specie for which she had sold swam on shore ; but they were pre her cargo, and which she would now vented by presenting a piece at them, have on board, would be prodigiously on which they readily submitted, and more to be esteemed by us than the were taken into the barge. The officers cargo itself, great part of which would further added, that they had imme haveperished onourhands ; and nopart diately turned the canoe adrift against of it could have been disposed of by us the face of a rock, where it would at so advantageous a mart as Acapulco. Thus we were a second time en inevitably be dashed to pieces by the fury of the sea ; this they did to de- gaged in an eager expectation of meet ceive those who perhaps might be sent ing with this Manilla ship, which, by from the town to search after the the fame of its wealth, we had been canoe ; for, upon seeing several pieces taught to consider as the most desir of a wreck, they would immediately able prize that was to be met with in conclude that the people on board her any part of the globe. As all our had been drowned, and would have future projects will be in some sort no suspicion of their having fallen into regulated with a view to the possession our hands. When the crew of the of this celebrated galleon, and as the barge had taken this precaution, they commerce which is carried on by exerted their utmost strength in pull- means of these vessels between the ing out to sea, and by dawn of day city of Manilla and the port of Aca had gained such an offing as rendered pulco is perhaps the most valuable, in it impossible for them to be seen from proportion to its quantity, of any in the coast. the known world, I shall endeavour And now having got the three in the ensuing Chapter to give as dis Negroes in our possession, who were tinct an account as I can of all the not ignorant of the transactions at particulars relating thereto ; both as Acapulco, we were soon satisfied about it is a matter in which I conceive the the most material points which had public to be in some degree interested, long kept us in suspense. And on and as I flatter myself that, from the examination we found that we were materials which have fallen into my indeed disappointed in our expecta hands, I am enabled to describe it tion of intercepting the galleon be with more distinctness than has hith fore her arrival at Acapulco ; but we erto been done, at least in our lan learned other circumstances which guage. still revived our hopes, and which, we then conceived, would more than CHAPTER X.¹ balance theopportunity we had already lost. For though our Negro pri soners informed us that the galleon THOUGH Spain did not [ by the voyage arrived at Acapulco on our 9th of of Magellan] acquire the property of January, which was about twenty days before we fell in with this coast, yet 1 The historical portion of this
100 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. II . CH. X. any of the Spice Islands, yet the dis to steer to the northward till they got covery made, in his expedition, of the clear of the trade-winds, and then, by Philippine Islands, was thought too the favour of the westerly winds, considerable to be neglected, for these which generally prevail in high lati were not far distant from those places tudes, to stretch away for the coast of which produced spices, and were very California. This has been the prac well situated for the Chinese trade, tice for at least 160 years past ; for and for the commerce of other parts Sir Thomas Cavendish, in the year of India ; and therefore a communica 1586, engaged off the south end of tion was soon established and care California a vessel bound from Manilla fully supported between these islands to the American coast. And it was and the Spanish colonies on the coast in compliance with this new plan of of Peru. So that the city of Manilla navigation, and to shorten the run (which was built on the Island of both backwards and forwards, that Luconia, the chief of the Philippines) the staple of this commerce to and soon became the mart for all Indian from Manilla was removed from Callao, commodities, which were brought up on the coast of Peru, to the port of by the inhabitants, and were an Acapulco, on the coast of Mexico, nually sent to the South Seas to where it continues fixed at this time. The trade carried on from Manilla be there vended on their account ; and the returns of this commerce to to China, and different parts of India, Manilla being principally made in is principally for such commodities silver, the place by degrees grew as are intended to supply the king extremely opulent and considerable, doms of Mexico and Peru. These are , and its trade so far increased as to spices ; all sorts of Chinese silks and engage the attention of the Court manufactures, particularly silk stock of Spain, and to be frequently ings, of which I have heard that no controlled and regulated by royal less than 50,000 pairs were the usual edicts. number shipped on board the annual In the infancy of this trade, it was ship ; vastquantities of Indian stuffs carried on from the port of Callao to as calicoes and chintzes, which are the city of Manilla, in which voyage much worn in America ; together with the trade-wind continually favoured other minuter articles-as goldsmiths' them ; so that, notwithstanding these work, & c. , which is principally done places were distant between three and at the city of Manilla itself by the four thousand leagues, yet the voyage Chinese ; for it is said there are at was often made in little more than least 20,000 Chinese who constantly two months. But then the return reside there, either as servants, manu from Manilla was extremely trouble facturers, or brokers. All these dif some and tedious, and is said to have ferent commodities are collected at sometimes taken them up above a Manilla, thence to be transported an twelvemonth, which, if they pretended nually in one or more ships to the to ply up within the limits of the port of Acapulco. But this trade to trade-wind, is not at all to be won Acapulco is not laid open to all the dered at ; and it is asserted that in inhabitants of Manilla, but is confined their first voyages they were so im by very particular regulations, some prudent and unskilful as to attempt what analogous to those by which the this course. However, that route was 1 The Santa Anna, of 700 tons, the soon laid aside by the advice, as it is said, of a Jesuit, who persuaded them Admiral of the South Seas, bearing a cargo valued at 122,000 pesos. From Chapter, relating to the old feud be Cape St Lucas, after capturing the tween the Spanish and Portuguese on Manilla ship, Cavendish sailed to the the score of their discoveries, and to Ladrones in forty-five days. the origin of the trade, has been left The place of trade established by out. decrce or ordinance.
THE TRACK OF THE MANILLA GALLEON. 1742. ] 101 trade of the register ships from Cadiz | indeed she must be of an enormous to the West Indies is restrained. The size, for it is known, that when she ships employed herein are found by was employed with other ships from the King of Spain, who pays the offi the same port to cruise for our China cers and crew; and the tonnage is trade, she had no less than 1200 men divided into a certain number of bales, on board. Their other ships, though all of the same size. These are dis far inferior in bulk to this, are yet tributed amongst the convents at Man stout, large vessels, of the burthen of illa, but principally to the Jesuits, as 1200 tons and upwards, and usually a donation for the support of their carry from 350 to 600 hands, passen missions for the propagation of the gers included, with fifty odd guns. Catholic faith ; and these convents As these are all King's ships, com have hereby a right to embark such a missioned and paid by him, there is quantity ofgoods on board the Manilla usually one of the captains who is ship as the tonnage of their bales styled the General, and who carries amounts to ; or, if they choose not to the royal standard of Spain at the be concerned in trade themselves, they main-topgallant masthead. have the power of selling this privi The ship having received her cargo lege to others. And as the merchants on board, and being fitted for the sea, to whom they grant their shares are generally weighs from the mole of often unprovided of a stock, it is usual Cabite¹ about the middle of July, for the convents to lend them consi taking the advantage of the westerly derable sums of money on bottomry. monsoon, which then sets in, to carry The trade is by the royal edicts limited them to sea. The getting through to a certain value, which the annual the Boccadero to the eastward must cargo ought not to exceed. Some be a troublesome navigation ; and, in Spanish manuscripts I have seen men fact, it is sometimes the end of August tion this limitation to be 600,000 dol before they get clear of the land. lars ; but the annual cargo does cer When they have got through this pass tainly surpass this sum ; and though age, and are clear of the islands, they it may be difficult to fix its exact stand to the northward of the east, value, yet from many comparisons I in order to get into the Latitude of conclude that the return cannot be thirty odd degrees, when they expect to meet with westerly winds, before greatly short of 3,000,000 dollars. This trade from Manilla to Acapulco which they run away for the coast of and back again is usually carried on California. It is most remarkable, in one or at most two annual ships, that by the concurrent testimony of which set sail from Manilla aboutJuly, all the Spanish navigators, there is arrive at Acapulco in the December, not; one port, nor even a tolerable January, or February following, and, road, as yet found out betwixt the having there disposed of their effects, Philippine Islands and the coast of return for Manilla some time in March, California and Mexico ; so that from where they generally arrive in June ; the time the Manilla ship first loses so that the whole voyage takes up very near an entire year. For this 1 The port of Manilla, about two reason, though there is often no more leagues to the southward of the city. than one ship employed at a time, yet 2 Luzon, or Luconia, is separated there is always one ready for the sea from Mindoro by the strait of that when the other arrives ; and therefore name, about five miles broad ; and the commerce at Manilla are provided from Samar by the " Embocadero de with three or four stout ships, that, San Bernardino, " the common passage in case of any accident , the trade may for vessels navigating the Pacific on not be suspended . The largest of their way to China. these ships, whose name I have not 3 Compare Dampier's account of learned , is described as little less than the navigation in Chapter IX. one of our first-rate men-of-war, and
102 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B.II. CH. X. sight of land, she never lets go her they denominate them, they steer to anchor till she arrives on the coast of the southward, without endeavouring California, and very often not till she to fall in with the coast till they have gets to its southernmost extremity. run into lower latitude ; for as there And therefore, as this voyage is rarely are many islands and some shoals of less than six months' continuance, adjacent to California, the extreme and the ship is deep laden with mer caution of the Spanish navigators chandise and crowded with people, it makes them very apprehensive of be may appear wonderful how they can ing engaged with the land. However, be supplied with a stock of fresh water when they draw near its southern ex for so long a time ; and indeed their tremity, they venture to haul in, both method of procuring it is extremely for the sake of making Cape St Lucas singular.¹ to ascertain their reckoning, and also The Manilla ship, having stood so to receive intelligence from the Indian far to the northward as to meet with inhabitants whether or no there are a westerly wind, stretches away nearly any enemies on the coast ; and this in the same latitude for the coast of last circumstance, which is a par California ; and when she has run ticular article in the captain's in into the Longitude of 96° from Cape structions, makes it necessary to Espiritu Santo, she generally meets mention the late proceedings of with a plant floating on the sea, which, the Jesuits amongst the Californian being called porra by the Spaniards, Indians. is, I presume, a species of sea-leek. Since the first discovery of Cali On the sight of this plant they esteem fornia there have been various wan themselves sufficiently near the Cali dering missionaries who have visited fornian shore, and immediately stand it at different times, though to little to the southward ; and they rely so purpose ; but of late years the Jesuits, much on this circumstance, that on encouraged and supported by a large the first discovery of the plant the donation from the Marquis da Valero, whole ship's company chant a solemn a most munificent bigot, have fixed Te Deum, esteeming the difficulties themselves upon the place and have and hazards of their passage to be established a very considerable mis now at an end ; and they constantly sion. Their principal settlement lies correct their longitude thereby, with just within Cape St Lucas, where out ever coming within sight of land. they have collected a great number After falling in with these signs, as of savages, and have endeavoured to inure them to agriculture and other 1 In allusion to the custom of the mechanic arts. And their efforts Spaniards in the South Seas carrying have not been altogether ineffectual ; a great quantity of water jars hung on for they have planted vines at their the shrouds and stays of the vessel, settlements with very good success, and in this way conserving the water so that they already make a consider during the voyage. They depended able quantity of wine, resembling in for a fresh supply on the rains which flavour the inferior sorts of Madeira, fell, and which they caught in mats which begins to be esteemed in the hung all over the deck, from which neighbouring kingdom of Mexico. The it was led into the jars by means of Jesuits, then, being thus firmly rooted split bamboos . on California, they have already ex 2 " Puerro " is the Spanish for tended their jurisdiction quite across leek ; but " porra " is a word, though the country from sea to sea, and are generally used in a tropical sense, endeavouring to spread their influence sufficiently near the other to have farther to the northward, with which been quite honestly used in Anson's view they have made several expedi time to serve the same meaning ; and tions up the gulf between California "porreta " signifies the green leaf of and Mexico, in order to discover the onions or garlick, nature of the adjacent countries, al'
1742. ] TREASURE CONVEYED BY MANILLA GALLEON . 103 which they hope hereafter to bring | tremely unhealthy, for the air about under their power. And being thus it is so pent up by the hills. occupied in advancing the interests of that it has scarcely any circulation. their Society, it is no wonder if some The place is, besides, destitute of share of attention is engaged about fresh water, except what is brought the security of the Manilla ship, in from a considerable distance ; and is which their convents at Manilla are in all respects so inconvenient, that so deeply concerned. For this pur- except at the time of the mart, whilst pose there are refreshments, as fruits, the Manilla galleon is in the port, it wine, water, &c. , constantly kept in is almost deserted. When the galleon readiness for her ; and there is besides arrives in this port, she is generally care taken at Cape St Lucas to look moored on its western side, and her out for any ship of the enemy which cargo is delivered with all possible might be cruising there to intercept expedition. And now the town of her ; this being a station where she Acapulco, from almost a solitude, is is constantly expected, and where she immediately thronged with merchants has been often waited for and fought from all parts of the kingdom of with, though generally with little Mexico. The cargo being landed and success. In consequence, then, of disposed of, the silver and the goods the measures mutually settled between intended for Manilla are taken on the Jesuits of Manilla and their board, together with provisions and brethren at California, the captain of water, and the ship prepares to put the galleon is ordered to fall in with to sea with the utmost expedition. the_land to the northward of Cape There is indeed no time to be lost ; St Lucas, where the inhabitants are for it is an express order to the cap directed, on sight of the vessel, to tain to be out of the port of Acapulco, make the proper signals with fires ; on his return, before the first day of and on discovering these fires the cap- April, N.S. tain is to send his launch on shore And having mentioned the goods with twenty men, well-armed, who intended for Manilla, I must observe are to carry with them the letters that the principal return is always from the convents at Manilla to the made in silver, and consequently the Californian missionaries, and are to rest of the cargo is but of little ac bring back the refreshments which count ; the other articles, besides the will be prepared for them, and like silver, being some cochineal, and a wise intelligence whether or no there few sweetmeats, the produce of the are any enemies on the coast. And American settlements, together with if the captain finds, from the account European millinery ware for the wo which is sent him, that he has no men at Manilla, and some Spanish thing to fear, he is directed to proceed wines, such as tent and sherry, which for Cape St Lucas, and thence to Cape are intended for the use of their Corrientes ; after which he is to coast priests in the administration of the sacrament. And this difference in it along for the port of Acapulco. The most usual time of the arrival the cargo of the ship to and from of the galleon at Acapulco is towards Manilla occasions a very remarkable the middle of January ; but this variety in the manner of equipping navigation is so uncertain that she the ship for these two different voy sometimes gets in a month sooner, ages. For the galleon, when she sets and at other times has been detained sail from Manilla, being deep laden at sea above a month longer. The with a variety of bulky goods, has port of Acapulco is by much the not the conveniency of mounting her securest and finest in all the north lower tier of guns, but carries them ern parts of the Pacific Ocean ; being, in her hold till she draws near Cape as it were, a basin surrounded with St Lucas, and is apprehensive of an very high mountains : but the town enemy. Her hands, too, are as few is a most wretched place, and ex as is consistent with the safety of the
104 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II . CÂ. X. ship, that she may be less pestered | to yield her all the assistance in their with the stowage of provisions. But, power. However, the danger of the on her return from Acapulco, as her road at Guam is so great, that though cargo lies in less room, her lower tier the galleon is ordered to call there, is (or ought to be) always mounted yet she rarely stays above a day or before she leaves the port ; and her two ; but getting her water and re crew is augmented with a supply of freshments on board as soon as pos sailors, and with one or two com sible, she steers away directly for Cape panies of foot, which are intended to Espiritu Santo, on the Island of reinforce the garrison at Manilla. Samal.2 Here the captain is again And there being, besides, many mer ordered to look out for signals ; and chants who take their passage to he is told that sentinels will be posted Manilla on board the galleon, her not only on that cape, but likewise whole number of hands on her return in Catanduanas, Butusan, Birribor is usually little short of six hundred, ongo, and on the Island of Batan. all which are easily provided for by These sentinels are instructed to make reason of the small stowage necessary a fire when they discover the ship, for the silver. which the captain is carefully to ob The galleon being thus fitted for serve. For if, after this first fire is her return, the captain, on leaving extinguished, he perceives that four the port of Acapulco, steers for the or more are lighted up again, he is Latitude of 13° or 14°, and runs on then to conclude that there are enemies that parallel till he gets sight of the on the coast ; and on this he is im Island of Guam, one of the Ladrones. mediately to endeavour to speak with In this run the captain is particularly the sentinel on shore, and to procure directed to be careful of the shoals of from him more particular intelligence St Bartholomew, and of the Island of of their force, and of the station they Gasparico.¹ He is also told in his cruise in ; pursuant to which he is to instructions that, to prevent his pass- regulate his conduct, and to endea ing the Ladrones in the dark, there vour to gain some secure port amongst are orders given that through all the those islands, without coming in sight month of June fires shall be lighted of the enemy ; and in case he should every night on the highest part of bediscovered when in port, and should Guam and Rota, and kept in till the be apprehensive of an attack, he is morning. At Guam there is a small then to land his treasure, and to take Spanish garrison, (as will be more par- some of his artillery on shore for its ticularly mentioned hereafter) pur- defence, not neglecting to send fre posely intended to secure that place quent and particular accounts to tho for the refreshment of the galleon, and city of Manilla of all that passes. But if, after the first fire on shore, 1 In Anson's Chart San Bartolomeo the captain observes that two others is laid down as a considerable island, only are made by the sentinels, he is in about Latitude 13° N. , Longitude then to conclude that there is nothing 159° E. The position nearly corre to fear ; and he is to pursue his course spondswith that of some ofthe smaller without interruption, and to make the islands, north of Torres, belonging to of his way to the port of Cabite, the Caroline group . Gaspar Rico, best which is the port to the city of Man not shown in Anson's Chart, is in illa, and the constant station for all about Latitude 12° 30' N. , Longitude the ships employed in this commerce 171° 30' E. But the two islands to Acapulco. specially signalled out for caution are no more than a speck among the 2 Or Samar ; an island of consi hundreds of isles which for fully thirty derable size, lying to the north of degrees of longitude the Centurion Mindanao, about the centre of the passed Ladrones to the northward in her voyage Archipelago, with its point farthest to the . advanced towards the cast.
RETURN OF THE BARGE FROM ACAPULCO. 105 order of it was thus : The Centurion CHAPTER XI. brought the paps over the harbour to bear NNE. , at fifteen leagues' distance, I HAVE already mentioned in the which was a sufficient offing to pre ninth Chapter, that the return of our vent our being seen by the enemy. barge from the port of Acapulco, Tothewestward ofthe Centurion there where she had surprised three Negro was stationed the Carmelo, and to the fishermen, gave us inexpressible satis eastward were theTrial prize, the Glou faction ; as we learned from our pri cester, and the Carmen. These were soners that the galleon was then pre all ranged in a circular line, and each paring to put to sea, and that her ship was three leagues distant from departure was fixed, by an edict of the next ; so that the Carmelo and the Viceroy of Mexico, to the 14th of the Carmen, which were the two ex March N.S. , that is, to the 3d of tremes, were twelve leagues distant March according to our reckoning. from each other. And as the galleon What related to this Manilla ship could without doubt be discerned at being the matter to which we were six leagues' distance from either ex most attentive, it was necessarily the tremity, the whole sweep of our squad first article of our examination ; but ron, within which nothing could pass having satisfied ourselves upon this undiscovered, was at least twenty-four head, we then indulged our curiosity leagues in extent ; and yet we were in inquiring after other news ; when so connected by our signals as to the prisoners informed us, that they be easily and speedily informed of had received intelligence at Acapulco what was seen in any part of the line. of our having plundered and burned And to render this disposition still the town of Paita ; and that on this more complete, and to prevent even occasion the Governor of Acapulco had the possibility of the galleon's escap augmented the fortifications of the ing us in the night, the two cutters place, and had taken several precau belonging to the Centurion and the tions to prevent us from forcing our Gloucester were both manned and sent way into the harbour ; that in par in-shore, and were ordered to lie all day ticular he had placed a guard on the at the distance of four or five leagues island which lies at the harbour's from the entrance of the port, where, mouth, and that this guard had been by reason of their smallness, they withdrawn but two nights before the could not possibly be discovered ; but arrival of our barge : so that had the in the night they were directed to barge succeeded in her first attempt, stand nearer to the harbour's mouth, or had she arrived at the port the and, as the light of the morning came second time two days sooner, she on, they were to return back again to could scarcely have avoided being their day posts. When the cutters seized on, or if she had escaped it should first discover the Manilla ship must have been with the loss of the one of them was ordered to return to greatest part of her crew, as she would the squadron, and to make a signal have been under the fire of the guard whether the galleon stood to the east before she had known her danger. ward or to the westward ; whilst the And now, on the 1st of March, we other was to follow the galleon at a made the high lands usually called distance, and, if it grew dark, was tɔ the paps, over Acapulco, and got with direct the squadron in their chase by all possible expedition into the situa showing false fires. Besides the care we had taken to tion prescribed by the Commodore's crders. The distribution of our squad prevent the galleon from passing by ron on this occasion, both for the in us unobserved, we had not been in tercepting the galleon and for the attentive to the means of engaging avoiding a discovery from the shore, her to advantage when we came up was so very judicious that it well with her ; for, considering the thin merits to be distinctly described . The ness of our hands, and the vaunting
1742.]
106 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II . CH. XI. accounts given by the Spaniards of | we kept up our hopes, and did not her size, her guns, and her strength, abate of our vigilance ; and as the this was a consideration not to be 7th of March was Sunday, the begin neglected. As we supposed that none ning of Passion Week, which is ob of our ships but the Centurion and served by the Papists with great strict the Gloucester were capable of lying ness and a total cessation from all alongside of her, we took on board kinds of labour, so that no ship is the Centurion all the hands belonging permitted to stir out of port during to the Carmelo and the Carmen, ex the whole week, this quieted our ap cept what were just sufficient to navi prehensions for some days, and dis gate those ships ; and Captain Saun posed us not to expect the galleon till ders was ordered to send from the the week following. On the Friday Trial prize ten Englishmen and as in this week our cutters returned to many Negroes to reinforce the crew of us, and the officers on board them the Gloucester. And for the encour were very confident that the galleon agement of our Negroes, of whom we was still in port, for that she could had a considerable number on board, not possibly have come out but they we promised them that on their good must have seen her. On the Monday behaviour they should all have their morning succeeding Passion Week freedom ; and as they had been almost that is, on the 15th of March- the every day trained to the management cutters were again despatched to their of the great guns for the two preced old station, and our hopes were once ing months, they were very well quali more indulged in as sanguine prepos fied to be of service to us ; and from sessions as before ; but in a week's their hopes of liberty, and in return time our eagerness was greatly abated, for the usage they had met with and a general dejection and despon amongst us, they seemed disposed to dency took place in its room. It is exert themselves to the utmost of their true there were some few amongst us power. who still kept up their spirits, and And now, being thus prepared for were very ingenious in finding out the reception of the galleon, we ex reasons to satisfy themselves that the pected with the utmost impatience disappointment we had hitherto met the so often-mentioned 3d of March, with had only been occasioned by a the day fixed for her departure, And casual delay of the galleon, which a on that day we were all of us most few days would remove, and not by eagerly engaged in looking out towards a total suspension of her departure for Acapulco and we were so strangely the whole season. But these specula prepossessed with the certainty of our tions were not relished by the gener intelligence, and with an assurance of ality of our people ; for they were her coming out of port, that some or persuaded that the enemy had by other on board us were constantly some accident discovered our being imagining that they discovered one of upon the coast, and had therefore laid our cutters returning with a signal. an embargo on the galleon till the But to our extreme vexation both this next year. And indeed this persua day and the succeeding night passed sion was but too well founded ; for over without any news of the galleon . we afterwards learned that our barge, However, we did not yet despair, but when sent on the discovery of the port were all heartily disposed to flatter of Acapulco, had been seen from the ourselves that some unforeseen acci shore, and that this circumstance (no dent had intervened which might have embarkations but canoes ever frc put off her departure for a few days ; quenting that coast) was to them a and suggestions of this kind occurred sufficient proof of the neighbourhood in plenty, as we knew that the time of our squadron ; on which they stop fixed by the Viceroy for her sailing was often prolonged on the petition ped the galleon till the succeeding of the merchants of Mexico . Thus year. When we had taken up the cutters ,
107 1742.] IN THE HARBOUR OF CHEQUETAN. all the ships being joined, the Com | conceived by their not returning, had modore made a signal to speak with not as yet discovered a place proper their commanders ; and upon inquiry to water at, and by the leakage of into the stock of fresh water remain our casks and other accidents we had ing on board the squadron, it was not ten days ' water on board the whole found to be so very slender, that we squadron ; so that, from the known were under a necessity of quitting our difficulty of procuring water on this station to procure a fresh supply. coast, and the little reliance we had And consulting what place was the on the Buccaneer writers (the only properest for this purpose, it was guides we had to trust to), we were agreed that the harbour of Seguataneo apprehensive of being soon exposed or Chequetan, being the nearest to us, to a calamity, the most terrible of any was on that account the most eligible ; in the long, disheartening catalogue of and it was therefore immediately re the distresses of a sea-faring life. solved to make the best of our way But these gloomy suggestions were thither. And that, even while we soon happily ended ; for our boats were recruiting our water, we might returned on the 5th of April, having not totally abandon our views upon discovered a place proper for our the galleon, which perhaps, upon cer purpose about seven miles to the tain intelligence ofour being employed westward of the rocks of Seguataneo, at Chequetan, might venture to slip which, by the description they gave out to sea, our cutter, under the com of it, appeared to be the port called by mand of Mr Hughes, the lieutenant Dampier the harbour of Chequetan. of the Trial prize, was ordered to The success of our boats was highly cruise off the port of Acapulco for agreeable to us ; and they were or twenty-four days ; that, if the gal dered out again the next day to sound leon should set sail in that inter the harbour and its entrance, which val, we might be speedily informed they had represented as very narrow. of it. In pursuance of these resolu At their return they reported the tions, we endeavoured to ply to the place to be free from any danger ; so westward, to gain our intended port, that on the 7th we stood in, and that but were often interrupted in our pro evening came to an anchor in eleven gress by calms and adverse currents. fathoms. The Gloucester came to an In these intervals we employed our anchor at the same time with us ; but selves in taking out the most valuable the Carmelo and the Carmen having part of the cargoes of the Carmelo and fallen to leeward, the Trial prize was Carmen prizes, which two ships we ordered to join them, and to bring intended to destroy as soon as we had them in, which in two or three days tolerably cleared them. By the 1st she effected . Thus, after a four of April we were so far advanced months' continuance at sea from the towards Seguataneo, that we thought leaving of Quibo, and having but six it expedient to send out two boats, days' water on board, we arrived in that they might range along the coast, the harbour of Chequetan. and discover the watering-place. They were gone some days, and, our water being now very short, it was a parti CHAPTER XII. cular felicity to us that we met with dailysupplies ofturtle ; for hadwebeen entirely confined to salt provisions we THE harbour of Chequetan lies in the must have suffered extremely in so Latitude of 17° 36′ Ñ. , and is about warm a climate. Indeed, our present thirty leagues to the westward of Aca circumstances were sufficiently alarm pulco. It is easy to be discovered by ing, and gave the most considerate any ship that will keep well in with amongst us as much concern as any the land, especially by such as range of the numerous perils we had hitherto down coast from Acapulco, and will encountered ; for our boats, as we attend to the following particulars.
108 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. II . CH. XIII. There is a beach of sand, which ex- | flight one of their horses fell down and tends eighteen leagues from the har- threw his rider ; but whether he was bour of Acapulco to the westward, wounded or not we could not learn, against which the sea breaks with for both man and horse soon got up such violence that it is impossible to again and followed the rest into the land in any part of it ; but yet the wood. In the meantime the other ground is so clean, that ships, in the two squadrons, who were drawn up fair season, may anchor in great safety at a great distance behind, out of the at the distance of a mile or two from reach of our shot, were calm specta the shore. The land adjacent to this tors of the rout of their comrades, for beach is generally low, full of villages, they had halted on our first approach, and planted with a great number of and never advanced afterwards . It trees ; and on the tops of some small was doubtless fortunate for our people eminences there are several look-out that the enemy acted with so little towers, so that the face of the country prudence, and exerted so little spirit ; affords avery agreeable prospect. for had they concealed themselves till And on this occasion I cannot help our men had landed, it is scarcely mentioning another adventure which possible but the whole boat's crew happened to some of our people in must have fallen into their hands, since the Bay of Petaplan, as it may help the Spaniards were not much short to give the reader a just idea of the of 200, and the whole number with temper of the inhabitants of this part Mr Brett only amounted to sixteen. of the world. Some time after our However, the discovery of so consi arrival at Chequetan, Lieutenant Brett derable a force collected in this Bay was sent by the Commodore, with of Petaplan obliged us constantly to two of our boats under his command, keep a boat or two before it ; for w to examine the coast to the eastward, were apprehensive that the cutter, particularly to make observations on which we had left to cruise off Aca the bay and watering-place of Peta pulco, might on her return be sur plan. As Mr Brett, with one of prised by the enemy, if she did not the boats, was preparing to go on receive timely information of her shore towards the hill of Petaplan, danger. he, accidentally looking across the bay, perceived on the opposite strand three small squadrons of horse par CHAPTER XIII. ading upon the beach, and seeming to advance towards the place where he proposed to land. On sight of THE next morning after our coming this, he immediately put off the boat, to an anchor in the harbour of Che though he had but sixteen men with quetan, we sent about ninety of our him, and stood over the bay towards men well armed on shore, forty of them ; and he soon came near enough whom were ordered to march into the to perceive that they were mounted on country, as has been mentioned, and very sightly horses, and were armed the remaining fifty were employed to with carbines and lances. On seeing cover the watering-place and to pre him make towards them, they formed vent any interruption from thenatives. upon the beach, and seemed resolved Here we completed the unloading of to dispute his landing, firing several the Carmelo and Carmen, which we had distant shots at him as he drew near ; begun at sea-at least we took out of till at last, the boat being arrived them the indigo, cacao, and cochineal, within a reasonable distance of the with some iron for ballast, which were most advanced squadron, Mr Brett all the goods we intended to preserve, ordered his people to fire, upon which though they did not amount to a this resolute cavalry instantly ran in tenth of their cargoes. Here, too, it great confusion into the wood through was agreed after a mature consultation a small opening. In this precipitate to destroy the Trial's prize, as well as
109 A FRENCHMAN SEIZED BY INDIANS. 1742. ] the Carmelo and Carmen, whose fate ployed in watering to have their arms had been before resolved on. Indeed ready, and, in case of any alarm, to the ship was in good repair and fit for march instantly to this spot. And the sea; but as the whole numbers on though our principal intention was to board our squadron did not amount prevent our being disturbed by any to the complement of a fourth-rate sudden attack of the enemy's horse, man-of-war, we found it was impos yet it answered another purpose which sible to divide them into three ships was not in itself less important-this without rendering them incapable of was to hinder our own people from navigating in safetyin thetempestuous straggling singly into the country, weather we had reason to expect on where we had reason to believe they the coast of China, where we supposed would be surprised by the Spaniards, we should arrive about the time of the who would doubtless be extremely change of the monsoons. These con solicitous to pick up some of them siderations determined theCommodore in hopes of getting intelligence of our to destroy the Trial prize, and to re future designs. To avoid this incon inforce the Gloucester with the greatest venience, the strictest orders were part of her crew. And in consequence given to the sentinels to let no person of this resolve, all the stores on board whatever pass beyond their post. But, the Trial prize were removed into the notwithstanding this precaution, we other ships ; and the prize herself, missed one Lewis Leger, who was the with the Carmelo and Carmen, were Commodore's cook ; and as he was a prepared for scuttling with all the ex Frenchman, and suspected to be a pedition we were masters of. But the Papist, it was by some imagined that great difficulties we were under in lay he had deserted with a view of betray. ing in a store of water (which have ing all that he knew to the enemy ; been already touched on), together but this appeared by the event to be with the necessary repairs of our rig an ill-grounded surmise, for it was ging and other unavoidable occupa afterwards known that he had been tions, took us up so much time, and taken by some Indians, who carried found ussuchunexpected employment, him prisoner to Acapulco, whence he that it was near the end of April be was transferred to Mexico, and then fore we were in a condition to leave to Veru Cruz, where he was shipped on board a vessel bound to Old Spain. the place. During our stay here there hap And the vessel being obliged by some pened an incident which, as it proved accident to put into Lisbon, Leger the means of convincing our friends escaped on shore, and was by the in England of our safety, which for British Consul sent thence to Eng some time they had despaired of and land, where he brought the first au were then in doubt about, I shall beg thentic account of the safety of the leave particularly to recite. I have Commodore, and of what he had done observed in the preceding Chapter in the South Seas. The relation he that from this harbour of Chequetan gave of his own seizure was, that he there was but one pathway, which led had rambled into the woods at some through the woods into the country. distance from the barricade where he This we found much beaten, and were had first attempted to pass, but had thence convinced that it was well been stopped and threatened to be known to the inhabitants. As it passed punished-that his principal view was by the spring-head, and was the only to get a quantity of limes for his mas avenue by which the Spaniards could ter's store ; and that in this occupa approach us, we, at some distance be tion he was surprised unawares by yond the spring-head, felled several four Indians, who stripped him naked, large trees, and laid them one upon and carried him in that condition to the other across the path ; and at this Acapulco, exposed to the scorching barricade we constantly kept a guard ; heat of the sun, which at that time and we, besides, ordered our men em of the year shone with its greatest
110 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [ B. II . CH . XIII. violence. And afterwards at Mexico, | left fixed to a grapnel in the middle his treatment in prison was sufficiently of the harbour, with a bottle in it severe, and the whole course of his well corked, enclosing a letter to Mr captivity was a continued instance of Hughes, who commanded the cutter the hatred which the Spaniards bear which was ordered to cruise before the to all those who endeavour to disturb port of Acapulco when we came off them in the peaceable possession of that station. And on this occasion I the coasts of the South Seas. Indeed, must mention more particularly than Leger's fortune was, upon the whole, I have yet done the views of the extremely singular ; for after the Commodore in leaving the cutter be hazards he had run in the Commo- fore that port. When we were necessitated to make dore's squadron, and the severities he had suffered in his long confinement for Chequetan to take in our water, amongst the enemy, a more fatal dis Mr Anson considered that our being aster attended him on his return to in that harbour would soon be known England. For though, when he ar at Acapulco ; and therefore he hoped, rived in London, some of Mr Anson's that on the intelligence of our being friends interested themselves in re employed in port, the galleon might lieving him from the poverty to which put to sea, especially as Chequetan his captivity had reduced him, yet he is so very remote from the course did not long enjoy the benefit of their generally steered by the galleon. He humanity, for he was killed in an in therefore ordered the cutter to cruise significant night brawl, the cause of twenty-four days off the port of Aca pulco ; and her commander was di which could scarcely be discovered. And here I must observe that rected, on perceiving the galleon under though the enemy never appeared in sail, to make the best of his way to sight during our stay in this harbour, the Commodore at Chequetan. As yet we perceived that there were large the Centurion was doubtless a much parties of them encamped in the woods better sailer than the galleon, Mr about us ; forwe could see their smokes, Anson, in this case, resolved to have and could thence determine that they got to sea as soon as possible, and to were posted in a circular line surround have pursued the galleon across the ing us at a distance ; and just before Pacific Ocean ; and supposing he our coming away they seemed, by the should not have met with her in his increase of their fires, to have received passage (which, considering that he a considerable reinforcement. would have kept nearly the same Towards the latter end of April, the parallel, was not very improbable) yet unloading of our three prizes, our he was certain of arriving off Cape wooding and watering, and, in short, Espiritu Santo, on the Island of Samal, all our proposed employments at the before her ; and that being the first harbour ofChequetan were completed ; land she makes on her return to the so that on the 27th the Trial's prize, Philippines, we could not have failed the Carmelo and the Carmen-all to have fallen in with her by cruising which we here intended to destroy a few days in that station. But the were towed on shore and scuttled, and Viceroy of Mexico ruined this project materials a quantity of combustible by keeping the galleon in the port of were distributed in their upper works ; Acapulco all that year. The letter left in the canoe for Mr and next morning the Centurion and the Gloucester weighed anchor, but as Hughes, the commander of the cutter there was but little wind, and that not (the time of whose return was now in their favour, they were obliged to considerably elapsed), directed him to warp out of the harbour. When they go back immediately to his former had reached the offing, one of the station before Acapulco, where he boats was despatched back again to would find Mr Anson, who resolved set fire to our prize, which was ac to cruise for him there for a certain cordingly executed. And a canoe was number of days ; after which it was
111 DISAPPEARANCE OF A CUTTER. 1742. ] added, that the Commodore would which, besides the compassionate con return to the southward to join the cern for our shipmates, and for what This last it was apprehended they might have rest of the squadron. article was inserted to deceive the suffered, was in itself a misfortune Spaniards, if they got possession of which in our present scarcity of hands the canoe (as we afterwards learned we were all greatly interested in. they did), but could not impose on For the crew of the cutter, consisting Mr Hughes, who well knew that the of six men and the lieutenant, were Commodore had no squadron to join, the very flower of our people, pur nor any intention of steering back to posely picked out for this service, and known to be, every one of them, Peru. Being now in the offing of Cheque of tried and approved resolution, and tan, bound across the vast Pacific as skilful seamen as ever trod a deck. Ocean in our way to China, we were However, as it was the general belief impatient to run off the coast as soon among us that they were taken and as possible ; for as the stormy season carried into Acapulco, the Commo was approaching apace, and as we dore's prudence suggested a project had no further views in the American which we hoped would recover them. seas, we had hoped that nothing This was founded on our having would have prevented us from stand many Spanish and Indian prisoners ing to the westward the moment we in our possession, and a number of got out of the harbour of Chequetan. sick Negroes, who could be of no ser And it was no small mortification to vice to us in the navigating of the The Commodore therefore us that our necessary employment ship. there had detained us so much longer wrote a letter the same day to the than we expected ; and now we were Governor of Acapulco, telling him further detained by the absence of that he would release them all, pro the cutter, and the standing towards vided the Governor returned the Acapulco in search of her. Indeed, cutter's crew ; and the letter was de is the time of her cruise had been spatched the same afternoon by a expired for near a fortnight, we sus Spanish officer, of whose honour we pected that she had been discovered had a good opinion, and whe was from the shore, and that the Gover furnished with a launch belonging to nor of Acapulco had thereupon sent one of our prizes, and a crew of six out a force to seize her, which, as other prisoners, who all gave their she carried but six hands, was no parole for their return. The officer, very difficult enterprise. However, too, besides the Commodore's letter, this being only conjecture, the Com carried with him a joint petition modore as soon as he was got clear of signed by all the rest of the prisoners, the harbour of Chequetan, stood beseeching his Excellency to acquiesce along the coast to the eastward in in the terms proposed for their liberty. search of her. And to prevent her From a consideration of the number from passing by us in the dark, we of our prisoners, and the quality of brought to every night, and the Glou some of them, we did not doubt but cester, whose station was a league the Governor would readily comply within us towards the shore, carried with Mr Anson's proposal ; and there a light, which the cutter could not fore we kept plying on and off the but perceive if she kept along shore, whole night, intending to keep well as we supposed she would do ; and in with the land, that we might re as a further security, the Centurion ceive an answer at the limited time, and the Gloucester alternately showed which was the next day, being Monday. But both on the Monday two false fires every half-hour. By Sunday, the 2d of May, we were and Tuesday we were driven so far advanced within three leagues of off shore that we could not hope to Acapulco ; and having seen nothing receive any answer ; and on the Wed of our boat, we gave her over for lost, nesday morning we found ourselves
112 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II. CH. XIII. fourteen leagues from the harbour of no other means left them to allay Acapulco ; but, as the wind was now their thirst than sucking the blood favourable, we pressed forwards with of the turtle which they caught ; and all our sail, and did not doubt of at last, giving up all hopes of relief, getting in with the land in a few the heat of the climate, too, aug. hours. menting their necessities, and render Whilst we were thus standing in, ing their sufferings insupportable, the man at the mast-head called out they abandoned themselves to despair, that he saw a boat under sail at a fully persuaded that they should considerable distance to the south perish by the most terrible of all eastward. This we took for granted deaths. But they were soon after was the answer of the Governor to happily relieved by a most unex the Commodore's message, and we pected incident, for there fell so instantly edged towards it ; but when heavy a rain, that by spreading their we drew nearer we found to our un sails horizontally, and by putting speakable joy that it was our own bullets in the centre of them to draw cutter. While she was still at a them to a point, they caught as much distance, we imagined that she had water as filled all their casks ; imme been discharged out of the port of diately upon this fortunate supply, Acapulco by the Governor ; but they stood to the westward in quest when she drew nearer, the wan and of the Commodore ; and, being now meagre countenances of the crew, the luckily favoured by a strong current, length of their beards, and the feeble they joined us in less than fifty hours and hollow tone of their voices, con from the time they stood to the west vinced us that they had suffered ward, after having been absent from much greater hardships than could us full forty-three days. Those who be expected from even the severities have an idea of the inconsiderable of a Spanish prison. They were size of a cutter belonging to a sixty obliged to be helped into the ship, gun ship (being only an open boat and were immediately put to bed ; about twenty-two feet in length), and and with rest, and nourishing diet, who will attend to the various acci which they were plentifully supplied dents to which she was exposed dur with from the Commodore's table, ing a six weeks' continuance alone in they recovered their health and the open ocean, on so impracticable vigour apace. And now we learned and dangerous a coast, will readily that they had kept the sea the whole own that her return to us at last, time of their absence, which was after all the difficulties which she above six weeks ; that when they actually experienced, and the hazards finished their cruise before Acapulco, to which she was each hour exposed, and had just begun to ply to the may be considered as little short of I cannot finish the westward in order to join the squad miraculous. ron, a strong adverse current had article of this cutter without remark forced them down the coast to the ing how little reliance navigators eastward in spite of all their efforts ; ought to have on the accounts of the that at length, their water being all Buccaneer writers. For though, in expended, they were obliged to search this run of hers eighty leagues to the the coast farther on to the eastward, eastward of Acapulco, she found no in quest of some convenient landing place where it was possible for a boat place, where they might get a fresh to land, yet those writers have not been supply ; that in this distress they ashamed to feign harbours and con ran upwards of eighty leagues to lee venient watering-places within these ward, and found everywhere so large limits, thereby exposing such as a surf, that there was not the least should confide in their relations to possibility oftheir landing ; that they the risk of being destroyed by thirst. passed some days in this dreadful And now, having received our cut situation, without water and having i ter, the sole object of our coming a
RELEASE OF 17412. ] second time before Acapulco, the Commodore resolved not to lose a moment's time longer, but to run off the coast with the utmost expedition ; both as the stormy season on the coast of Mexico was now approaching apace, and as we were apprehensive of having the westerly monsoon to struggle with when we came upon the coast of China. And therefore he no longer stood towards Acapulco, as he now wanted no answer from the Governor ; but yet he resolved not to deprive his prisoners of the liberty which he had promised them, so that they were all immediately embarked in two launches which belonged to our prizes, those from the Centurion in one launch, and those from the Gloucester in the other. The launches were well equipped with masts, sails, and oars ; and, lest the wind might prove unfavourable, they had a stock of water and provisions put on board them sufficient for fourteen days. There were discharged thirty-nine persons from on board the Centurion, and eighteen from the Gloucester, the greatest part of them Spaniards, the rest Indians and sick Negroes ; but as our crews were very weak, we kept the Mulattoes and some of the stoutest of the Negroes, with a few Indians, to assist us, but we dismissed every Spanish prisoner whatever.¹ We have since learned that these two launches arrived safe at Acapulco, where the prisoners could not enough extol the humanity with which they had been treated ; and that the Governor, before their arrival, had returned a very obliging answer to the Commodore's letter, and had attended it with a present of two boats laden with the choicest refreshments and provisions which were to be got at Acapulco ; but that these boats, not having found our ships, were at length obliged to put back again after having thrown all their 1 " About four in the evening they left us," says Thomas, " having first, though enemies, observed the custom of scafaring people at parting, and wished us a prosperous voyage.
113 PRISONERS. provisions overboard in a storm which threatened their destruction. The sending away our prisoners was our last transaction on the American coast, for no sooner had we parted with them than we and the Gloucester made sail to the SW., proposing to get a good offing from the land, where we hoped in a few days to meet with the regular trade-wind, which the ac counts of former navigators had re presented as much brisker and steadier in this ocean than in any other part of the globe. For it has been es teemed no uncommon passage to run from hence to the easternmost parts of Asia in two months, and we flattered ourselves that we were as capable of making an expedi tious passage as any ships that had ever run this course before us ; so that we hoped soon to gain the coast of China, for which we were now bound. And conformable to the gene ral idea of this navigation given by former voyagers, we considered it as free from all kinds of embarrassment of bad weather, fatigue, or sickness : and consequently we undertook it with alacrity, especially as it was no con temptible step towards our arrival at our native country, for which many of us by this time began to have great longings. Thus, on the 6th of May, we for the last time lost sight of the mountains of Mexico, persuaded that in a few weeks we should arrive at the River of Canton in China, where we expected to meet with many English ships and numbers of our countrymen, and hoped to enjoy the advantages of an amicable, well-frequented port, in habited by a polished people, and abounding with the conveniences and indulgences of a civilised life, bless ings which now for near twenty months had never been once in our power.2 2 In the original, a Fourteenth Chapter of Book II. is devoted to a disquisition, entitled " Abrief Account of what might have been expected from our squadron had it arrived in the South Seas in good time ; " but, apart from the unprofitableness of dis H
114
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD.
BOOK CHAPTER I. WHEN, on the 6th of May 1742, we left the coast of America, we stood to the SW. with a view of meeting with the NE. trade-wind,whichtheaccounts of former writers made us expect at seventy or eighty leagues' distance from the land. We had, besides, an other reason for standing to the south ward, which was the getting into the Latitude of 13° or 14° N. , that being the parallel where the Pacific Ocean is most usually crossed, and consequentlywherethe navigation is esteemed the safest. This last purpose we had soon answered, being in a day or two sufficiently advanced to the south. At the same time, we were also farther from the shore than we had presumed was necessary for falling in with the trade-wind ; but in this particular we were most grievously disappointed, for the wind still continued to the westward, or at best variable. As the getting into the NE. trade was to us a matter of the last consequence, we stood more to the southward, and made many experiments to meet with it ; but all our efforts were for a long time unsuccessful, so that it was seven weeks from our leaving the coast before we got into the true trade-wind. This was an interval in which we believed we should well nigh have reached the easternmost parts of Asia ; but we were so baffled with the contrary and variable winds which for all that time perplexed us, that we were not as yet advanced above a fourth part of the way. The delay alone would have been a sufficient mortification, but cussing a probability subject to so many conditions that the Narrator could not contemplate, it will appear to the reader that quite enough has been said, both in the opening Chap ter and throughout the whole narra tive, to show wherein and how the squadron came short of its intents.
[B. III. CH. I.
III.
there were other circumstances attend ing it which rendered this situation not less terrible, and our apprehen sions perhaps still greater, than in any of our past distresses. For our two ships were by this time extremely crazy ; and many days had not passed before we discovered a spring in the foremast of the Centurion, which rounded about twenty-six inches of its circumference, and which was judged to be at least four inches deep. And no sooner had our car penters secured this with fishing it, but the Gloucester made a signal of distress ; and we learned that she had a dangerous spring in her main mast twelve feet below the trussel trees,¹ so that she could not carry any sail upon it. Our carpenters, on a strict examination of this mast, found it so very rotten and decayed that they judged it necessary to cut it down as low as it appeared to have been injured, and by this it was reduced to nothing but a stump, which served only as a step to the topmast. These accidents augmented our delay and occasioned us great anxiety about our future security, for on our leaving the coast of Mexico the scurvy had begun to make its appear ance again amongst our people, though from our departure from Juan Fernan dez we had till then enjoyed a most uninterrupted state of health. We too well knew the effects of this dis ease from our former fatal experience, to suppose that anything but a speedy passage could secure the greater part of our crew from perishing by it ; and as, after being seven weeks at sea, there did not appear any reasons that could persuade us we were nearer the
1 Or trestle-trees ; 66 two strong pieces of timber placed horizontally and fore-and-aft on opposite sides of a mast-head, to support the cross-trees and top, and also for""the fid of the mast above to rest on.'
1742. ] APPEARANCE OF SCURVY AMONGST THE CREW. 115 trade-wind than when we first set out, and did not in the least avail his there was no ground for us to suppose patients.3 but our passage would prove at least When we reached the trade-wind, three times as long as we at first ex- and it settled between the north and pected ; and consequently we had the the east, yet it seldom blew with so melancholy prospect either of dying much strength but the Centurion by the scurvy or perishing with the might have carried all her small sails ship for want of hands to navigate abroad with the greatest safety ; so her. Indeed some amongst us were that now, had we been a single ship, at first willing to believe that in this we might have run down our longi warm climate, so different from what tude apace, and have reached the La we felt in passing round Cape Horn, drones soon enough to have recovered the violence of this disease and its great numbers of our men who after fatality might be in some degree miti- wards perished . But the Gloucester, gated, as it had not been unusual to by the loss of her mainmast, sailed so suppose that its particular virulence very heavily that we had seldom any in that passage was in a great measure more than our topsails set, and yet owing to the severity of the weather. were frequently obliged to lie to for But the havoc of the distemper in our her ; and, I conceive, that in the present circumstances soon convinced whole we lost little less than a month us of the falsity of this speculation, by our attendance upon her, in con as it likewise exploded some other sequence of the various mischances opinions which usually pass current she encountered. In all this run, it about the cause and nature of this was remarkable that we were rarely disease.¹ Our surgeon (who, during many days together without seeing our passage round Cape Horn, had great numbers of birds, which is a ascribed the mortality we suffered to proof that there are many islands, or the severity of the climate) exerted at least rocks, scattered all along at himself in the present run to the no very considerable distance from utmost, and at last declared that all our track.4 Some indeed there are his measures were totally ineffectual, 3 Aboutthe middle ofJune, Thomas ¹ Some observations on the general remarks that abundance of scorbutic medical treatment of the disease, and symptoms, such as blackness in the on the effect of certain specifics tried skin, hard nodes in the flesh, short on some of the crew, have been here ness of breath, and a general lassitude omitted. Speaking of the scurvy, and weakness of all the parts, began Thomas strives to removethe prevalent to prevail almost universally among notion that it attacks none but the the people. Towards the end of July lazy ; whereas experience in the voy he writes : " About this time our age proved the direct contrary, the people began to die very fast, and I most laborious, active, stirring per believe above five parts out of six of sons being oftenest seized with the the ship's company were ill and ex disease, and the continuance of their pected to follow in a short time. labour, instead of curing, only helped Those whose breath was anyways af to kill them the sooner. Nor, he fected, dropped off immediately ; but adds, does the scurvy generally in those who were attacked first in the cline people to indolence till it has more remote parts of the body, lan come to such a height that at the guished generally a month or six least motion the sufferer is ready to weeks, the distemper advancing in the meantime towards the lungs by""a very faint. 2 Mr Henry Ettrick, originally of regular and sensible approach. the Wager; he succeeded Mr Thomas 4 More recent discoveries have fully Walter, the first surgeon of the Cen borne out this sagacious conjecture. turion, who died off the coast of Thomas records, early in July: " We Brazil. had, not only now, but for almost our
116 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III. CH.I. marked in Spanish charts ; but the being then, as we esteemed, about frequency of the birds seems to evince 300 leagues distant from the La that there are many more than have drones, we met with a westerly wind , been hitherto discovered ; for the which did not come about again to greatest part of the birds, we ob- the eastward in four days' time. This served, were such as are known to was a most dispiriting incident, as it roost on shore ; and the manner of at once damped all our hopes of speedy their appearance sufficiently made out relief, especially, too, as it was at that they came from some distant tended with a vexatious accident to haunt every morning, and returned the Gloucester ; for in one part of thither again in the evening ; for we these four days the wind flattened to never saw them early or late, and the a calm, and the ships rolled very deep, hour of their arrival and departure by which means the Gloucester's forc gradually varied, which we supposed cap split, and her topmast came by was occasioned by our running nearer the board and broke her foreyard their haunts or getting farther from directly in the slings. As she was them. hereby rendered incapable of mak The trade-wind continued to favour ing any sail for some time, we wero us without any fluctuation from the obliged, as soon as a gale sprung up, to end of June till towards the end of take her in tow ; and near twenty of July. But on the 26th of July, the healthiest and ablest of our seamen were taken from the business of our whole passage, abundance of birds of own ship, and were employed for eight prey, also flying fish, which are their orten days together on board the Glou proper food, and vast quantities of cester in repairing her damages. But skip-jacks, albicores, &c. , whereof we these things, mortifying as we thought took a great number, which contri them, were but the beginning of our buted much to our refreshment after disasters ; for scarce had our people the loss of the tortoises, that gene finished their business in the Glouces rally leave all ships about twenty or ter, before we met with a most violent thirty leagues off the land. I think storm in the western board, which this the more worthy of notice, be obliged us to lie to. In the begin cause Dampier, Rogers, Cook, Cowley, ning of this storm our ship sprung a and most other voyagers, some of leak, and let in so much water, that whom have been not only once, but all our people, officers included, were several times on this voyage, have employed continually in working the reported that they never saw a fish pumps. And the next day we had or fowl in this whole run. For my the vexation to see the Gloucester part, I readily believe and conclude, 1 Anson records in his Official Re that this difference in our observa tions and accounts is really occasioned port : " On the 15th of June the by the different seasons of the year in Gloucester found her mainmast sprung which we happened to perform this at the head, which, upon examina passage ; it being a known truth, and tion, was discovered to be entirely confirmed by the experience of thou rotten. On the 29th of July the sands in all ages, that most fish have Gloucester carried away her foretop their different seasons for their differ mast and foreyard. My ship's com ent rendezvouses. The 10th, we saw pany are now miserably afflicted with three gannets, or, as they call them the scurvy, the ship very leaky, the in Scotland, solan geese, being, by men and officers that were well being what I can learn from the most in only able to make one spell at the telligent of that nation whom I have pump." "This is all," observes Sir conversed with, and who often have John Barrow, " that Anson says of opportunity to observe them in several the second attack of this afflicting different parts, of one and the same malady ; but, coming from the Com species." modore, it speaks volumes. "
117 DISTRESS OF THE GLOUCESTER. 1742. ] with her topmast once more by the | a leak by the sternpost being loose board ; and whilst we were viewing and working with every roll of the her with great concern for this new ship, and by two beams amidships distress, we saw her maintop-mast, being broken in the orlop, no part of which had hitherto served as a jury which the carpenters reported was mainmast, share the same fate. This possible to be repaired at sea ; that completed our misfortunes, and ren both officers and men had worked dered them without resource ; for we twenty-four hours at the pump with knew the Gloucester's crew were so out intermission, and were at length few and feeble that without our assist so fatigued that they could continue ance they could not be relieved ; and their labour no longer, but had been our sick were now so far increased, forced to desist, with seven feet of and those that remained in health so water in the hold, which covered their continually fatigued with the addi casks, so that they could neither come tional duty of our pumps, that it was at fresh water nor provision ; that impossible for us to lend them any they had no mast standing except the aid. Indeed we were not as yet fully foremast, the mizzenmast, and the apprised of the deplorable situation mizzentop- mast, nor had they any of the Gloucester's crew ; for when spare masts to get up in the room of the storm abated (which during its those they had lost ; that the ship continuance prevented all communi was besides extremely decayed in cation with them) the Gloucester bore every part, for her knees and clamps up under our stern, and Captain were all worked quite loose, and her Mitchel informed the Commodore upper works in general were so loose that besides the loss of his masts, that the quarter-deck was ready to which was all that had appeared to drop down ; and that her crew was us, the ship had then no less than greatly reduced, for there remained seven feet of water in her hold, al alive on board her no more than though his officers and men had been seventy - seven men, eighteen boys, kept constantly at the pump for the and two prisoners, officers included ; and that of this whole number only last twenty-four hours. This last circumstance was indeed sixteen men and eleven boys were cap a most terrible accumulation to the able of keeping the deck, and several other extraordinary distresses of the of these very infirm. The Commodore, on the perusal of Gloucester, and required, if possible, the most speedy and vigorous assist this melancholy representation, pre ance, which Captain Mitchel begged sently ordered them a supply of water the Commodore to send him. But and provisions, of which they seemed the debility of our people, and our to be in immediate want, and at the own immediate preservation, rendered same time sent his own carpenter on it impossible for the Commodore to board them to examine into the truth comply with his request. All that of every particular ; and it being could be done was to send our boat found, on the strictest inquiry, that on board for a more particular condi the preceding account was in no in tion of the ship ; and it was soon sus stance exaggerated, it plainly appeared pected that the taking her people on that there was no possibility of pre board us, and then destroying her, serving the Gloucester any longer, as was the only measure that could be her leaks were irreparable, and the prosecuted in the present emergency, united hands on board both ships, cap both for the security of their lives able of working, would not be able to and of our own. Our boat soon re free her, even if our own ship should turned with a representation of the not employ any part of them. What state of the Gloucester, and of her then could be resolved on, when it several defects, signed by Captain was the utmost we ourselves could do Mitchel and all his officers ; by to manage our own pumps ? Indeed, which it appeared that he had sprung there was no room for deliberation ;
118 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III.Cп. I. the onlystepto be taken was the saving which was in the possession of our the lives of the few that remained on enemies, and the wreck of such a ship board the Gloucester, and getting out would have been to them no con of her as much as was possible before temptible acquisition. When she was she was destroyed. And therefore the set on fire, Captain Mitchel and his Commodore immediately sent an order officers left her, and came on board to Captain Mitchel, as the weather the Centurion ; and we immediately was now calm and favourable, to send stood from the wreck, not without his people on board the Centurion as some apprehensions (as we had now expeditiously as he could, and to take only a light breeze) that, if she blew out such stores as he could get at up soon, the concussion of the air whilst the ship could be kept above might damage our rigging ; but she water. And as our leak required fortunately burned, though very less attention whilst the present easy fiercely, the whole night, her guns fir weather continued, we sent our boats, ing successively as the flames reached with as many men as we could spare, them. And it was six in the morn to Captain Mitchel's assistance. ing, when we were about four leagues The removing the Gloucester's distant, before she blew up ; the report people on board us, and the getting she made upon this occasion was but out such stores as could most easily a small one, but there was an exceed be come at, gave us full employment ing black pillar of smoke, which shot for two days. Mr Anson was ex up into the air to a very considerable tremely desirous to have got two of height. Thus perished his Majesty's her cables and an anchor, but the ship ship the Gloucester. The 23d, at daybreak, we were rolled so much, and the men were so excessively fatigued, that they were cheered with the discovery of two incapable of effecting it ; nay, it was islands in the western board. This even with the greatest difficulty that gave us all great joy, and raised our the prize-money which the Gloucester drooping spirits ; for before this a had taken in the South Seas was se universal dejection had seized us, and cured and sent on board the Centurion. we almost despaired of ever seeing However, the prize-goods on board land again. The nearest of these lier, which amounted to several thou islands we afterwards found to be sand pounds in value, and were prin Anatacan. We judged it to be full cipally the Centurion's property, were fifteen leagues from us, and it seemed entirely lost ; nor could any more to be high land, though of an indiffer provision be got out than five casks ent length. The other was the Island of flour, three of which were spoiled of Serigan, and had rather the appear. by the salt water. Their sick men, ance of a high rock than a place we amounting to near seventy, were re could hope to anchor at. We were moved into boats with as much care extremely impatient to get in with as the circumstances of that time the nearest island, where we expected would permit ; but three or four of to meet with anchoring ground, and them expired as they were hoisting an opportunity of refreshing our sick ; them into the Centurion. but the wind proved so variable all It was the 15th of August, in the day, and there was so little of it, that evening, before the Gloucester was we advanced towards it but slowly. cleared of everything that was pro However, by the next morning we posed to be removed ; and though the were got so far to the westward that hold was now almost full of water, we were in view of a third island, yet as the carpenters were of opinion which was that of Paxaros, though that she might still swim for some marked in the chart only as a rock. time if the calm should continue and This was small and very low land, the water become smooth, she was set and we had passed within less than a on fire; for we knew not how near we inile ofit in the night without seeing might now be to the Island of Guam, it. And now at noon, being within
ISLAND OF ANATACAN. 119 1742. ] four miles of the Island of Anatacan, | entirely to chance for our guidance ; the boat was sent away to examine only, as they are all of them usually the anchoring ground and the produce laid down near the same meridian, of the place ; and we were not a little and we had conceived those we had solicitous for her return, as we then already seen to be part of them, we conceived our fate to depend upon concluded to stand to the southward the report we should receive ; for the as the most probable means of falling other two islands were obviously in with the next. Thus, with the enough incapable of furnishing us most gloomy persuasion of our ap with any assistance, and we knew not proaching destruction, we stood from then that there were any others which the Island of Anatacan, having all of we could reach. In the evening the us the strongest apprehensions (and boat came back, and the crew informed those not ill founded) either of dying us that there was no place for a ship of the scurvy or of perishing with the to anchor, the bottom being every ship, which, for want of hands to where foul ground, and all, except work her pumps, might in a short one small spot, not less than fifty time be expected to founder. fathoms in depth ; that on that spot there was thirty fathoms, though not above half-a-mile from the shore ; and CHAPTER II. that the bank was steep and could not be depended on. They further told us that they had landed on the island, IT was the 26th of August 1742, in but with some difficulty, on account the morning, when we lost sight of of the greatness of the swell ; that Anatacan. The next morning we dis they found the ground was everywhere covered three other islands to the covered with a kind of cane or rush ; eastward, which were from ten to but that they met with no water, and fourteen leagues from us. These were, did not believe the place to be in as we afterwards learned, the islands habited, though the soil was good, of Saypan, Tinian, and Aguigan. We and abounded with groves of cocoa immediately steered towards Tinian, nut trees. which was the middlemost of the This account of the impossibility of three ; but had so much of calms and anchoring at this island occasioned a light airs, that though we were helped general melancholy on board, for we forwards by the currents, yet next considered it as little less than the day at daybreak we were at least five prelude to our destruction ; and our leagues distant from it. However, despondency was increased by a dis we kept on our course, and about ten appointment we met with the suc in the morning we perceived a proa ceeding night ; for, as we were plying under sail to the southward, between under topsails, with an intention of Tinian and Aguigan. As we imagined getting nearer to the island and of from hence that these islands were sending our boat on shore to load with inhabited, and knew that the Span cocoa-nuts for the refreshment of our iards had always a force at Guam, we sick, the wind proved squally, and took the necessary precautions for our blew so strong off shore that we were own security and for preventing the driven so far to the southward that enemyfrom takingadvantage ofour pre we dared not to send off our boat. sent wretched circumstances, of which And now the only possible circum they would be sufficiently informed by stance that could secure the few that themanner ofour workingtheship. We remained alive from perishing was the therefore mustered all our hands who accidental falling in with some other were capable of standing to their arms, of the Ladrone Islands better pre and loaded our upper and quarter deck pared for our accommodation ; and guns with grape shot ; and that we as our knowledge of these islands was might the more readily procure some extremely imperfect, we were to trust intelligence ofthe state of theseislands,
120 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III . CH. II. we showed Spanish colours and hoisted | here, the Spaniards at Guam made a red flag at the foretop-mast head, to | use of it as a store for supplying the give our ship the appearance of the garrison ; that he himself was a ser Manilla galleon, hoping thereby to geant of that garrison, and was sent decoy some ofthe inhabitants on board here with twenty-two Indians to jerk us. Thus preparing ourselves, and beef, which he was to load for Guam standing towards the land, we were on board a small bark of about fifteen near enough at three in the afternoon tons, which lay at anchor near the to send the cutter in-shore to find out shore. This account was received by us a proper berth for the ship ; and we soon perceived that a proa came off with inexpressible joy. Part of it we the shore to meet the cutter, fully were ourselves able to verify on the persuaded, as we afterwards found, spot, as we were by this time near that we were the Manilla ship. As enough to discover several numerous we saw the cutter returning back with herds of cattle feeding in different the proa in tow, we immediately sent places of the island ; and we did not the pinnace to receive the proa and anyways doubt the rest of his rela the prisoners, and to bring them on tion, as the appearance of the shore board, that the cutter might proceed prejudiced us greatly in its favour, on her errand. The pinnace came and made us hope that not only our back with a Spaniard and four In necessities might be there fully re dians, ¹ who were the people taken in lieved and our diseased recovered, but the proa. The Spaniard was imme that, amidst those pleasing scenes diately examined as to the produce which were then in view, we might and circumstances of this Island of procure ourselves some amusement Tinian, and his account of it surpassed and relaxation after the numerous even our most sanguine hopes ; for he fatigues we had undergone. For the informed us that it was uninhabited, prospect of the country did by no which, in our present defenceless con means resemble that of an uninhabit dition, was an advantage not to be ed and uncultivated place, but had despised, especially as it wanted but much more the air of a magnificent few of the conveniences that could be plantation, where large lawns and expected in the most cultivated coun stately woods had been laid out to try ; for he assured us that there was gether with great skill, and where the great plenty of very good water, and whole had been so artfully combined, that there were an incredible number and so judiciously adapted to the of cattle, hogs, and poultry running slopes of the hills and the inequalities wild on the island, all of them excel of the ground, as to produce a most lent in their kind ; that the woods striking effect, and to do honour to produced sweet and sour oranges, the invention of the contriver. Thus limes, lemons, and cocoa-nuts in great (an event not unlike what we had plenty, besides afruit peculiar to these already seen) we were forced upon the islands (called by Dampier bread most desirable and salutary measures fruit ) ; that, from the quantity and by accidents which at first sight we goodness of the provisions produced considered as the greatest of misfor tunes ; for had we not been driven by 1 Thomas says : " One of those In the contrary winds and currents to the northward of our course (a circum dians was a carpenter by trade , and his father was one of the principal stance which at that time gave us the builders at Manilla. This young man mostterrible apprehensions), weshould having been ill used by the Governor in all probability never have arrived at Guam, voluntarily entered with us, at this delightful island, and conse and became one of our carpenter's quently we should have missed that crew, and proved a very useful handy place where alone all our wants could fellow." be most amply relieved, our sick re covered, and our enfeebled crew once In Chapter X.
ON THE ISLAND OF TINIAN. 121 1742. ] more refreshed and enabled to put our seizure ofthe bark thenight before, that we were enemies, they immedi again to sea. The Spanish sergeant, from whom ately fled into the woody parts of the we received the account of the island, island. We found on shore many huts having informed us that there were which they had inhabited, and which some Indians on shore under his com saved us both the time and trouble of mand employed in jerking beef, and erecting tents. One of these huts, that there was a bark at anchor to which the Indians made use of for a take it on board, we were desirous if store-house, was very large, being possible to prevent the Indians from twenty yards long and fifteen broad; escaping, who doubtless would have this we immediately cleared of some given the Governor of Guam intelli bales of jerked beef which we found gence of our arrival ; and we therefore in it, and converted it into an hospital immediately despatched the pinnace for our sick, who, as soon as the place to secure the bark, which the ser was readytoreceive them, werebrought geant told us was the only embarka on shore, being in all 128. Numbers tion on the place. And then, about of these were so very helpless, that eight in the evening, we let go our we were obliged to carry them from anchor, in twenty-two fathoms, and the boats to the hospital upon our though it was almost calm, and what shoulders, in which humane employ ever vigour and spirit was to be found ment (as before at Juan Fernandez) on board was doubtless exerted to the the Commodore himself and every one utmost onthispleasingoccasion, when, of his officers were engaged without after having kept the sea for some distinction ; and, notwithstandingthe months, we were going to take posses great debility and other dying aspects sion of this little paradise, yet we were of the greatest part of our sick, it is full five hours in furling our sails. It almost incredible how soon they began is true, we were somewhat weakened to feel the salutary influence of the by the crews of the cutter and pin land. For though we buried twenty nace which were sent on shore ; but one men on this and the preceding it is not less true that, including those day, yet we did not lose above ten men absent with the boats and some Negro more during our whole two months' and Indian prisoners, all the hands stay here ; and in general our diseased we could muster capable of standing received so much benefit from the at a gun amounted to no more than fruits of the island, particularly the seventy-one, most of which number fruits of the acid kind, that in a week's too were incapable of duty ; but on the time there were but few who were not greatest emergencies this was all the so far recovered as to be able to move force we could collect, in our present about without help. enfeebled condition, from the united This island [ of Tinian] lies in Lati crews of the Centurion, the Glouces tude 50° 8' N., and Longitude from ter, and the Trial, which, when we Acapulco 114° 50′ W. Its length is breadth departed from England, consisted al about twelve miles, and itsextending about half as much ; it together of near 1000 hands. When we had furled our sails, the from the SSW. to NNE. The soil remaining part of the night was allow is everywhere dry and healthy, and ed to our people for their repose, to somewhat sandy, which, being less recover them from the fatigue they disposed than other soils to a rank had undergone ; and in the morning 1 " And indeed, " says Thomas, a party was sent on shore well-armed, of which I myself was one, to make " they were almost the only persons ourselves masters of the landing-place, on board capable of performing this as we were not certain what opposition service ; the healthiest seamen being might be made by the Indians on the so much enfeebled , that they had island. We landed without difficulty, but just strength enough left to help for the Indians having perceived, by themselves. '
122 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III . CH. II and over-luxuriant vegetation, occa even loaded by this repletion ; for sions the meadows and the bottoms after having, according to the custom of the woods to be much neater and of the island, made a large beef break smoother than is customary in hot fast, it was not long before we began climates. The land rises by easy to consider the approach of dinner as slopes, from the very beach where we a very desirable though somewhat watered, to the middle of the island ; tardy incident. Our first undertaking after our though the general course of its ascent is often interrupted and traversed by arrival was the removal of our sick gentle descents and valleys ; and the on shore, as has been mentioned. inequalities that are formed bythe Whilst we were thus employed, four different combinations of these grad of the Indians on shore, being part of ual swellings of the ground are most the Spanish sergeant's detachment, beautifullydiversified withlargelawns, came and surrendered themselves to which are covered with a very fine us ; so that with those we took in the trefoil, intermixed with a variety of proa, we had now eight of them in flowers, and are skirted by woods of our custody. One of the four who tall and well-spread trees, most of submitted undertook to show us the them celebrated either for their aspect most convenient place for killing or their fruit. The turf of the lawns cattle, and two of our men were or is quite clean and even, and the bot dered to attend him on that service ; toms ofthe woods in many places clear but one of them unwarily trusting of all bushes and underwoods ; and the Indian with his firelock and pis the woods themselves usually termi tol, the Indian escaped with them nate on the lawns with a regular out into the woods. His countrymen, line, not broken nor confused with who remained behind, were apprehen straggling trees, but appearing as sive of suffering for this perfidy of uniform as if laid out by art. their comrade, and therefore begged I must now observe that all these leave to send one of their own party advantages were greatly enhanced by into the country, who they engaged the healthiness of its climate, by the should both bring back the arms and almost constant breezes which prevail persuade the whole detachment from there, and by the frequent showers Guam to submit to us. The Commo which fall, and which, though of a dore granted their request, and one very short and almost momentary of them was despatched on this er duration, are extremely grateful and rand, who returned next day and refreshing, and are perhaps one cause brought back the firelock and pistol, of the salubrity of the air and of the but assured us he had met with them extraordinary influence it was ob in a pathway in the wood, and pro served to have upon us in increasing tested that he had not been able to and invigorating our appetites and meet with any one of his countrymen. digestion. This was so remarkable, This report had so little the air of that those amongst our officers who truth, that we suspected there was were at all other times spare and some treachery carrying on; and there temperate eaters, who besides a slight fore, to prevent any future communi breakfast made but one moderate re cation amongst them, we immediately past a-day, were here in appearance ordered all the Indians who were in transformed into gluttons ; for instead our power on board the ship, and did of one reasonable flesh-meal, they were not permit them to return any more now scarcely satisfied with three, and on shore. each of them so prodigious in quan Towards the middle of September tity as would at another time have several of our sick were tolerably re produced a fever or a surfeit. And covered by their residence on shore ; yet our digestion so well corresponded and, on the 12th of September all with the keenness of our appetites, those who were so far relieved since that we were neither disordered nor their arrival as to be capable of doing
A VIOLENT STORM. 123 1742. ] duty were sent on board the ship. | of our hands, had been on board with And then the Commodore, who was us, since our only hopes of safety himself ill of the scurvy, had a tent seemed to depend on our putting im crected for him on shore, where he mediately to sea. But all communi went with the view of staying a few cation with the shore was now effec days for the recovery of his health ; tually cut off, for there was no possi being convinced, by the general ex bility that a boat could live, so that perience of his people, that no other we were necessitated to ride it out method but living on the land was to till our cables parted. Indeed it was be trusted to for the removal of this not long before this happened, for the dreadful malady. The place where small bower parted at five in the his tent was pitched on this occasion, afternoon, and the ship swung off to was near the well whence we got all the best bower ; and as the night our water, and was indeed a most came on, the violence of the wind still elegant spot. As the crew on board increased . But, notwithstanding its were now reinforced by the recovered inexpressible fury, the tide ran with hands returned from the island, we so much rapidity as to prevail over began to send our casks on shore to it ; for the tide, having set to the be fitted up, which till now could not northward in the beginning of the be done, for the coopers were not well storm, turned suddenly to the south enough to work. We likewise weighed ward about six in the evening, and our anchors, that we might examine forced the ship before it in despite of our cables, which we suspected had the storm, which blew upon the beam. by this time received considerable And now the sea broke most surpris damage. And as the new moon was ingly all around us, and a large now approaching, when we appre tumbling swell threatened to poop hended violent gales, the Commodore, us ; the long-boat, which was at this for our greater security, ordered that time moored astern, was on a sudden part of the cables next to the anchors canted so high that it broke the tran to be armed with the chains of the som ofthe Commodore's gallery, whose fire-grapnels ; and they were besides cabin was on the quarter-deck, and cackled twenty fathoms from the would doubtless have risen as high as anchors, and seven fathoms from the the taffrail had it not been for this service, with a good rounding of a stroke which stove the boat all to 44-inch hawser ; and to all these pre pieces ; but the poor boat-keeper, cautions we added that of lowering though extremely bruised, was saved the main and fore yards close down, almost by miracle. About eight the that in case of blowing weather the tide slackened, but the wind did not wind might have less power upon the abate ; so that at eleven the best ship to make her ride a-strain. bower cable, by which alone we rode, Thus effectually prepared, as we parted. Our sheet anchor, which was conceived, we expected the new moon, the only one we had left, was in which was the 18th of September ; stantly cut from the bow ; but before and riding safe that and the three it could reach the bottom we were succeeding days (though the weather driven from twenty-two into thirty proved very squally and uncertain), five fathoms ; and after we had veered we flattered ourselves (for I was then away one whole cable, and two-thirds on board) that the prudence of our of another, we could not find ground measures had secured us from all ac with sixty fathoms of line. This was cidents. But on the 22d the wind a plain indication that the anchor lay blew from the eastward with such near the edge of the bank, and could fury that we soon despaired of riding not hold us [long]. outthe storm ; and therefore we should In this pressing danger, Mr Sau have been extremely glad that the marez, our first lieutenant, who now Commodore and the rest of our people commanded on board, ordered several on shore, which were the greatest part guns to be fired and lights to be
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III . CH . III. 124 shown, as a signal to the Commodore of no other vessel than the small of our distress ; and in a short time Spanish bark, of about fifteen tons, after, it being then about 1 o'clock, which they seized at their first arrival, a and the night excessively dark, a and which would not even hold And strong gust, attended with rain and fourth part of their number. lightning, drove us off the bank and the chance of their being taken off forced us out to sea, leaving behind the island by the casual arrival of us on the island Mr Anson, with any other ship was altogether desper many more of our officers, and great ate, as perhaps no European ship had part of our crew, amounting in the ever anchored here before, and it were whole to 113 persons. Thus were we madness to expect that like incidents all, both at sea and on shore, reduced should send another here in 100 ages to the utmost despair by this cata to come ; so that their desponding strophe ; those on shore conceiving thoughts could only suggest to them they had no means left them ever to the melancholy prospect of spending leave the island, and we on board the remainder of their days on this utterly unprepared to struggle with island, and bidding adieu for ever to the fury of the seas and winds we their country, their friends, their fami were now exposed to, and expecting lies, and all their domestic endear each moment to be our last. ments. Nor was this the worst they had to fear for they had reason to expect that the Governor of Guam, when he should be informed of their CHAPTER III. situation, might send a force sufficient to overpower them and to remove THE storm which drove the Centurion them to that island ; and then the to sea blew with too much turbulence most favourable treatment they could to permit either the Commodore or hope for would be to be detained any of the people on shore from hear prisoners for life ; since, from the ing the guns which she fired as sig known policy and cruelty of the nals of distress, and the frequent Spaniards in their distant settle glare of the lightning had prevented ments, it was rather to be expected the explosions from being observed : that the Governor, if he once had so that when at daybreak it was per them in his power, would make their ceived from the shore that the ship want of commissions (all of them being was missing, there was the utmost on board the Centurion) a pretext for consternation amongst them. For treating them as pirates, and for de much the greatest part of them im priving them of their lives with in mediately concluded that she was famy." In the midst of these gloomy re lost, and entreated the Commodore that the boat might be sent round the flections Mr Anson had doubtless his island to look for the wreck ; and those share of disquietude, but he always who believed her safe had scarcely kept up his usual composure and any expectation that she would ever steadiness ; and having soon projected be able to make the island again ; for 1 As in 1575, John Oxenham, or the wind continued to blow strong at east, and they knew how poorly Oxnam, who had accompanied Drake she was manned and provided for in his expedition to the West Indies, struggling with so tempestuous a gale. was put to death by the Governor of And if the Centurion was lost, or Panama, with all his companions, should be incapable of returning, because he had undertaken a daring there appeared in either case no pos but ultimately calamitous privateer sibility of their ever getting off the ing expedition without any commis island ; for they were at least 600 sion from his sovereign. Oxenham leagues from Macao, which was their was the first Englishman who ever nearest port ; and they were masters navigated the Pacific Ocean,
THE CENTURION DRIVEN SEAWARD. 125 1742.] a scheme for extricating himself and work immediately and to take it for his men from their present anxious granted that the Centurion would not situation, he first communicated it be able to put back (which was indeed to some of the most intelligent per the Commodore's secret opinion) ; sons about him ; and having satisfied since, if she did return, they should himself that it was practicable, he only throw away a few days ' applica then endeavoured to animate his tion ; but, if she did not, their situa people to a speedy and vigorous pro tion, and the season of the year, re secution of it. With this view he quired their utmost despatch. represented to them how little foun These remonstrances, though not dation there was for their apprehen without effect, did not immediately sions of the Centurion's being lost ; operate so powerfully as Mr Anson that he should have hoped they had could have wished . He indeed raised been all of them better acquainted their spirits by showing them the with sea affairs than to give way to possibility of their getting away, of the impression of so chimerical a which they had before despaired ; but fright, and that he doubted not but, then, from their confidence of this if they would seriously consider what resource ; they grew less apprehensive such a ship was capable of enduring, of their situation, gave a greater scope they would confess that there was not to theirhopes, and flattered themselves the least probability of her having that the Centurion would return and perished ; that he was not without prevent the execution of the Commo hopes that she might return in a few dore's scheme, which they could easily days, but if she did not, the worst foresee would be a work of consider that could be supposed was that she able labour. By this means it was was driven so far to the leeward of some days before they were all of them the island that she could not regain heartily engaged in the project ; but it, and that she would consequently at last, being in general convinced of be obliged to bear away for Macao on the impossibility of the ship's return, the coast of China ; that, as it was they set themselves zealously to the necessary to be prepared against all different tasks allotted them, and were events, he had, in this case, con as industrious and as eager as their sidered of a method of carrying them commander could desire, punctually off the island, and joining their old assembling at daybreak at the rendez ship the Centurion again at Macao ; vous, whence they were distributed to that this method was to haul the their different employments, which Spanish bark on shore, to saw her they followed with unusual vigour till asunder, and to lengthen her twelve night came on. And here I must interrupt the feet, which would enlarge her to near forty tons burthen, and would enable course ofthis transaction for a moment her to carry them all to China ; that to relate an incident which for some he had consulted the carpenters, and time gave Mr Anson more concern they had agreed that this proposal than all the preceding disasters. A was very feasible, and that nothing few days after the ship was driven off, was wanting to execute it but the some of the people on shore cried out, united resolution and industry of the "A sail !" This spread a general joy, whole body. He added that for his every one supposing that it was the own part he would share the fatigue ship returning ; but presently a second and labour with them, and would sail was descried, which quite de expect no more from any man than 1 And the Commodore, Thomas what he, the Commodore himself, was ready to submit to ; and con says, encouraged their diligence by cluded with representing to them the his example ; for being always at work importance of saving time, and that, by daybreak himself, it was thought a in order to be the better prepared for disgrace to be idle when their chief all events, it was necessary to set to was employed.
126 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. II. CH. III. stroyed their conjecture, and made it | weight, which were to be well consi difficult to guess what they were. dered. These were the rigging it, the The Commodore eagerly turned his victualling it, and lastly, the navigat glass towards them, and saw they ing it for the space of six or seven were two boats ; on which it imme hundred leagues, through unknown diately occurred to him that the Cen seas, where no one ofthe company had turion was gone to the bottom, and ever passed before. In some of these that these were her two boats coming particulars such obstacles occurred, back with the remains of her people; that without the intervention of very and this sudden and unexpected sug extraordinary and unexpected acci gestion wrought on him so powerfully dents the possibilityof thewhole enter that, to conceal his emotion, he was prise would have fallen to the ground, obliged (without speaking to any one) and their utmost industry and efforts • instantly to retire to his tent, where must have been fruitless.1 he passed some bitter moments in the And now, all these obstacles being firm belief that the ship was lost, and in some degree removed (which were that now all his views of further always as much as possible concealed distressing the enemy, and of still from the vulgar,2 that they might not signalising his expedition by some grow remiss with the apprehension of important exploit, were at an end. labouring to no purpose), the work But he was soon relieved from these proceeded very successfully and vig disturbing thoughts by discovering orously. The necessary ironwork was that the two boats in the offing were in great forwardness, and the timbers Indian proas ; and perceiving that and planks (which, though not the they stood towards the shore, he di most exquisite performances of the rected every appearance that could sawyer's art, were yet sufficient for the give themanysuspicion to be removed, purpose) were all prepared ; so that on and concealed his people in the adja the 6th of October, being the four cent thickets, prepared to secure the teenth day from the departure of the Indians when they should land. But ship, they hauled the bark on shore, after the proas had stood in within a and, onthetwo succeedingdays shewas quarter of a mile of the land, they sawn asunder (though with great care suddenly stopped short, and, remain not to cut her planks), and her two ing there motionless for near two hours, parts were separated the proper dis they then made sail again and stood tance from each other ; and, the ma to the southward. But to return to the projected en 1 Both carpenters and smiths were largement of the bark. If we examine here hard at work in the enlargement how they were prepared for going of the bark, Anson himself lending a through with this undertaking, on hand in the sawing of trees into plank. which their safety depended, we shall When the equipment of the vessel was find that, independent ofother matters being proceeded with,. they made the which were of as much importance, disheartening discovery that they were the lengthening of the bark alone was without a compass by which to steer, attended with great difficulty. In but in about eight days from the de deed, in a proper place, where all the parture of the Centurion, they were necessary materials and tools were to relieved from their perplexity, by the be had, the embarrassment wouldhave discovery of a small one in a chest be been much less ; but some of these longing to the Spanish bark. tools were to be made, and many of 2 From the general knowledge of the materials were wanting ; and it the company on shore. Thomas says, required no small degree of invention "The alacrity with which the business to supply all these deficiencies. And was carried on left no room for reflec when the hull of the bark should be tion amongthecommon sailors, though completed, this was but one article ; their superiors were not without their and there were many others of equal fears. "
1742. ]
RETURN OF THE CENTURION.
terials being all ready beforehand, they the next day, being the 9th of October, went on with great des patch in their proposed enlargement of her. And by this time they had all their future operations so fairly in view, and were so much masters of them, that they were able to determine when the whole would be finished , and had accordingly fixed the 5th of November for the day of their putting to sea. But their projects and labours were now drawing to a speedier and happier conclusion ; for on the 11th of October, in the afternoon, one of the Gloucester's men, being upon a hill in the middle of the island, per ceived the Centurion at a distance, and running down with his utmost speed towards the landing-place, he in the way saw some of his comrades, to whom he hallooed out with great ecstasy, " The ship ! The ship !" This being heard by Mr Gordon, a lieuten ant of marines, who was convinced by the fellow's transport that his report was true, Mr Gordon ran towards the place where the Commodore and his people were at work, and being fresh and in breath easily outstripped the Gloucester's man, and got before him to the Commodore ; who, on hearing this happy and unexpected news, threw down his axe with which he was then at work, and by his joy broke through for the first time the equable and unvaried character which he had hitherto preserved. The others who were with him instantly ran down to the seaside in a kind of frenzy, eager to feast themselves with a sight they had so ardently wished for, and of which they had now for a consider able time despaired. By five in the evening the Centurion was visible in the offing to them all ; and, a boat being sent off with eighteen men to reinforce her, and with fresh meat and fruits for the refreshment of her crew, she the next afternoon happily cameto an anchor in the road, where the Com modore immediately came on board her, and was received by us with the sincerest and heartiest acclamations. For from the following short recital of the fears, the dangers, and fatigues
127
we in the ship underwent during our nineteen days' absence from Tinian, it maybe easily conceived that a harbour, refreshments, repose, and the joining of our Commander and shipmates, were not less pleasing to us than our return was to them.
CHAPTER IV. THE Centurion being now once more safely arrived at Tinian, to the mutual respite of the labours of our divided crew, it is high time that the reader, after the relation already given of the projects and employment of those left on shore, should be ap prised of the fatigues and distresses to which we, who were driven off to sea, were exposed during the long in terval of nineteen days that we were absent from the island. It has been already mentioned, that it was the 22d of September, about 1 o'clock in an extreme dark night, when by the united violence of a prodigious storm, and an exceed ing rapid tide, we were driven from our anchors and forced to sea. Our condition then was truly deplorable ; we were in a leaky ship, with three cables in our hawses, to one of which hung our only remaining anchor ; we had not a gun on board lashed, nor a port barred in ; our shrouds were loose, and our topmasts unrigged, and we had struck our fore and main yards close down before the storm came on, so that there were no sails we could set except our mizzen. In this dreadful extremity we could muster no more strength on board to navigate the ship than 108 hands, several Negroes and Indians included. This was scarcely the fourth part of our complement ; and of these the greater number were either boys, or such as, being latelyrecovered from the scurvy, had not yet arrived at half their for mer vigour. No sooner were we at sea, but by the violence of the storm, and the working ofthe ship, we made a great quantity of water through our hawse-holes, ports, and scuppers,
128
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III.CH. IV. which, added to the constant effect of | jeers broke and killed one of our our leak, rendered our pumps alone a men, and prevented us at that time sufficient employment for us all. But from proceeding. The next day, being though this leakage, by being a short the 26th of September, was a day of time neglected, would inevitably end most severe fatigue to us all ; for it in our destruction, yet we had other must be remembered that in these dangers then impending, which occa- exigencies no rank or office exempted sioned this to be regarded as a second- any person from the manual applica ary consideration only. For we all ima- tion and bodily labour of a common gined that we were driving directly on sailor. The business of this day was the neighbouring island of Aguigan, no less than an attempt to heave up which was about two leagues distant ; the sheet-anchor, which we had and as we had lowered our main and hitherto dragged at our bows with fore yards close down, we had no sails two cables an end. This was a work we could set but the mizzen, which of great importance to our future pre was altogether insufficient to carry us servation ; for, not to mention the clear of this instant peril. We there- impediment to our navigation, and fore immediately applied ourselves to the hazard it would be to our ship if work, endeavouring by the utmost of we attempted to make sail with the our efforts to heave up the main and anchor in its present situation, we fore yards, in hopes that, if we could had this most interesting considera but be enabled to make use of our tion to animate us, that it was the lower canvas, we might possibly only anchor we had left, and, with weather the island, and thereby save out securing it, we should be under ourselves from this impending ship- the utmost difficulties and hazards wreck. But after full three hours' whenever we made the land again ; ineffectual labour the jeers broke, and and therefore, being all of us fully the men being quite jaded, we were apprised of the consequence of this obliged by mere debility to desist, enterprise, we laboured at it with the and quietly to expect our fate, which severest application for full twelve we then conceived to be unavoidable. hours, when we had indeed made a For we imagined ourselves by this considerable progress, having brought time to be driven just upon the shore, the anchor in sight. But it then and the night was so extremely dark, growing dark, and we being exces that we expected to discover the sively fatigued, we were obliged to island no otherwise than by striking desist, and to leave the work un upon it ; so that the belief of our de- finished till the next morning, when, struction, and the uncertainty of the by the benefit of a night's rest, we point of time when it would take completed it, and hung the anchor at place, occasioned us to pass several our bow. hours under the most serious appre It was the 27th of September, in hensions, that each succeeding mo the morning, that is, five days after ment would send us to the bottom. our departure, when we thus secured Nor did these continued terrors of in our anchor ; and the same day we got stantly striking and sinking end but up our mainyard. And having now with the daybreak ; when we with conquered in some degree the distress great transport perceived that the and disorder which we were neces island we had thus dreaded was at a sarily involved in at our first driving considerable distance, and that a out to sea, and being enabled to make strong northern current had been the use of our canvas, we set our courses, and for the first time stood to the cause of our preservation. The turbulent weather which forced eastward, in hopes of regaining the us from Tinian did not begin to abate Island of Tinian, and joining our till three days after ; and then we Commodore in a few days ; for we swayed up the foreyard, and began were then, by our accounts, only to heave up the mainyard, but the forty-seven leagues to the south-west
EMPLOYMENT AT TINIAN. 1742. ] 129 of Tinian, so that on the 1st day of stock of water, a work which we im October, having then run the dis mediately set ourselves about. But tance necessary for making the island the loss of our long-boat, which was according to our reckoning, we were staved against our poop when we were in full expectation of seeing it ; but driven out to sea, put us to great in we were unhappily disappointed, and conveniences in getting our water on were thereby convinced that a cur board, for we were obliged to raft off rent had driven us to the westward. all our casks, and the tide ran so And as we could not judge how much strong that, besides the frequent de we might hereby have deviated, and lays and difficulties it occasioned, we consequently how long we might still more than once lost the whole raft. expect to be at sea, we had great Nor was this our only misfortune, for apprehensions that our stock of on the 14th of October, being but the water might prove deficient ; for we third day after our arrival, a sudden were doubtful about the quantity we gust ofwind brought home our anchor, had on board, and found many of our forced us off the bank, and drove the casks so decayed as to be half leaked ship out to sea a second time. The out. However, we were delivered from Commodore, it is true, and the prin our uncertainty the next day, by cipal officers, were now on board ; but men on shore having a sight of the Island of Guam, we had near seventy by which we discovered that the who had been employed in filling currents had driven us forty-four our water and procuring provisions. leagues to the westward of our ac These had with them our two cutters, counts. This sight of land having but as they were too many for the satisfied us of our situation, we kept cutters to bring off at once, we sent plying to the eastward, though with the eighteen-oared barge to assist excessive labour ; for the wind con them, and at the same time made a tinuing fixed in the eastern board, we signal for all that could to embark. were obliged to tack often, and our The two cutters soon came off to us crew were so weak, that without the full of men, but forty of the company assistance of every man on board, it who were employed in killing cattle and in bringing them was not in our power to put the ship in the wood landing-place were left This severe employment down to the about. lasted till the 11th of October, being behind ; and though the eighteen the nineteenth day from our depar oared barge was left for their convey ture, when, arriving in the offing of ance, yet, as the ship soon drove to a Tinian, we were reinforced from the considerable distance, it was not in shore, as has been already mentioned ; their power to join us. However, as and on the evening of the same day the weather was favourable, and our we, to our inexpressible joy, came to crew was now stronger than when we an anchor in the road, thereby pro were first driven out, we in about five curing to our shipmates on shore, days' time returned again to an anchor as well as to ourselves, a cessation at Tinian, and relieved those we had from the fatigues and apprehensions left behind us from their second fears which this disastrous incident had of being deserted by their ship. On our arrival we found that the given rise to. Spanish bark, the old object of their hopes, had undergone a new metamor phosis. For those we had left on CHAPTER V. shore began to despair of our return, and conceiving that the lengthening WHEN the Commodore came on board the bark as formerly proposed was the Centurion on her return to Tinian, both a toilsome and unnecessary mea as already mentioned, he resolved to sure, considering the small number stay no longer at the island than was they consisted of, they had resolved absolutely necessary to complete our to join her again and to restore her to I
130 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III . Cп. V. her first state ; and in this scheme | being a passage from it down a preci they had made some progress, for they pice contrived for the convenience of had brought the two parts together, flight. They found here an old fire and would have soon completed her lock or two, but no other arms. How had not our coming back put a period ever, there was a great quantity of to their labours and disquietudes. provisions, particularly salted spare These people we had left behind in- ribs of pork, which were excellent ; formed us that, just before we were and from what our people saw here, seen in the offing, two proas had stood they concluded that the extraordinary in very near the shore, and had con- appetite which they had found at this tinued there for some time ; but on island was not confined to themselves the appearance of our ship they alone ; for it being about noon, the In crowded away, and were presently dians had laid out a very plentiful re out of sight. And on this occasion I past, considering their numbers, and must mention an incident which, had their bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts though it happened during the first prepared readyfor eating, and in a man absence of the ship, was then omitted ner which plainly evinced that with to avoid interrupting the course of the them too a good meal was neither an narration. uncommon nor an unheeded article. It has been already observed that a The Commodore having in vain en part of the detachment sent to this deavoured to discover the path by island under the command of the which the Indians had escaped, he Spanish sergeant lay concealed in the and his officers contented themselves woods, and we were the less solicitous with sitting down to the dinner which to find them out as our prisoners all was thus luckily fitted to their present assured us that it was impossible for appetites ; after which they returned them to get off, and consequently that back to their old habitation, displeased it was impossible for them to send any at missing the Indians, as they hoped intelligence about us to Guam. But to have engaged them in our service when the Centurion drove out to sea if they could have had any conference and left the Commodore on shore, he with them. But, notwithstanding one day, attended by some of his what our prisoners had asserted, we officers, endeavoured to make the tour were afterwards assured that these of the island. In this expedition, Indians were carried off to Guam long being on a rising ground, they per before we left the place. On our coming to an anchor again, ceived in the valley beneath them the appearance of a small thicket which, after our second driving off to sea, we by observing more nicely, they found laboured indefatigably in getting in had a progressive motion ; this at first our water ; and having by the 20th surprised them, but they soon dis of October completed it to fifty tuns, covered that it was no more than which we supposed would be sufficient several large cocoa bushes which were for our passage to Macao, we on the dragged along the ground by persons next day sent one of each mess on concealed beneath them. They im shore to gather as large a quantity of mediately concluded that these were oranges, lemons, cocoa-nuts, and other some of the sergeant's party (which 1 " In which service, " says the use was indeed true), and therefore the Commodore and his people made after ful Thomas, " two of our men em them in hopes of finding out their re ployed in the well unfortunately per treat. The Indians soon perceived ished ; for the sides of the well being they were discovered, and hurried loose earth, by the carelessness of away with precipitation ; but Mr An those above in not properly attending son was so near them that he did not the filling, the bank gave way bythe lose sight of them till they arrived at weight of a heavy cask, and both that their cell, which he and his officers and the bank fell in upon them to entering found to be abandoned, there gether. "
3742.3
FROM TINIAN TO MACAO. 131 fruits of the island, as they possibly were under great concern how we could for the use of themselves and should manage on the coast of China, messmates when at sea. And these where we were all entire strangers, purveyors returning on board us on and where we should doubtless be fre the evening of the same day, we then quently under the necessity of coming set fire to the bark and proa, hoisted to an anchor. Our sheet-anchor being in our boats, and got under sail, obviously much too heavy for a coast steering away for the south end of the ing anchor, it was at length resolved Island of Formosa, and taking our to fix two of our largest prize_an leave for the third and last time of the chors into one stock, and to place Island of Tinian, an island which, between their shanks two guns, four whether we consider the excellence of pounders, which was accordingly exe its productions, the beauty of its ap- cuted, and it was to serve as a best pearance, the elegance of its woods bower. And a third prize-anchor and lawns, the healthiness of its air, being in like manner joined with our or the adventures it gave rise to, may stream-anchor, with guns between in all these views be truly styled them, we thereby made a small bower, romantic.¹ so that, besides our sheet-anchor, we had again two others at our bows, one of which weighed 3900 and the other 2900 pounds. CHAPTER VI. The 3d of November, about three in the afternoon, we saw an island, I HAVE already mentioned that on which at first we imagined to be the the 21st of October, in the evening, Island of Botel Tobago Xima, but on we took our leave of the Island of our nearer approach we found it to be Tinian, steering the proper course for much smaller than that is usually re Macao in China. The eastern mon presented ; and about an hour after. soon was now, we reckoned, fairly we saw another island five or six miles settled ; and we had a constant gale farther to the westward . As no chart, blowing right upon our stern ; so that nor any journal we had seen, took we generally ran from forty to fifty notice of any other island to the east leagues a day. But we had a large ward of Formosa than Botel Tobago hollow sea pursuing us, which occa Xima ; and as we had no observation sioned the ship to labour much ; of our latitude at noon, we were in whence we received great damage some perplexity, being apprehensive in our rigging, which was grown that an extraordinary current had very rotten, and our leak was aug driven us into the neighbourhood of mented ; but happily for us our the Bashee Islands ; and therefore people were now in full health, so when night came on we brought to, that there were no complaints of and continued in this posture till the fatigue, but all went through their next morning, which, proving dark attendance on the pumps, and every and cloudy, for some time prolonged other duty of the ship, with ease and our uncertainty ; but it cleared up cheerfulness. about nine o'clock, when we again Having now no other but our sheet- discerned the two islands above men anchor left, except our prize anchors, tioned ; we then pressed forwards to which were stowed in the hold, and the westward, and by eleven got a were too light to be depended on, we sight of the southern part of the Is land of Formosa. This satisfied us 1 A description of the Ladrones, that the second island we saw was and of the wonderfully fast-sailing Botel Tobago Xima, and the first a proas of the inhabitants, is omitted. small island or rock lying five or six Dampier gives an interesting account miles due east from it, which not of Guam and of the proas in his Tenth being mentioned by any of our books or charts, was the occasion of our Chapter.
132 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III. CH. VI. fears. While we were passing by ings everywhere to the northward of these rocks of Vele Rete, there was Pedro Blanco ; and for this reason we an outcry of fire on the forecastle ; kept a very careful look- out, and this occasioned a general alarm, and altered our course to NNW. , and hav the whole crew instantly flocked to ing run thirty-five miles in this direc gether in the utmost confusion, so tion our soundings again gradually that the officers found it difficult for diminished to twenty-two fathoms, some time to appease the uproar. But and we at last, about midnight, got having at last reduced the people to sight of the mainland of China, bear order, it was perceived that the fire ing N. by W., four leagues distant. We then brought the ship to, with proceeded from the furnace ; and pull ing down the brick-work, it was ex her head to the sea, proposing to wait tinguished with great facility, for it for the morning ; and before sunriso had taken its rise from the bricks, we were surprised to find ourselves in which, being overheated, had begun the midst of an incredible number of to communicate the fire to the adja fishing-boats, which seemed to cover cent wood-work. In the evening we the surface of the sea as far as the were surprised with a view of what eye could reach. I may well style we at first sight conceived to have their number incredible, since I can been breakers, but on a stricter exa not believe, upon the lowest estimate, mination we found them to be only a that there were so few as 6000 ; most great number of fires on the Island of of them manned with five hands, and Formosa. These, we imagined, were none with less than three. Nor was intended by the inhabitants of that this swarm of fishing vessels peculiar island as signals for us to touch there ; to this spot ; for, as we ran on to the but that suited not our views, we being westward, we found them as abundant impatient to reach the port of Macao on every part of the coast. We at as soon as possible. From Formosa first doubted not but we should pro we steered WNW. , and sometimes cure a pilot from them to carry us to still more northerly, proposing to fall Macao ; but though many of them in with the coast of China to the east- came close to the ship, and we endea ward of Pedro Blanco ; for the rock so voured to tempt them by showing called is usually esteemed an excellent them a number of dollars, a most direction for ships bound to Macao. alluring bait for Chinese of all ranks We continued this course till the fol and professions, yet we could not en lowing night, and then frequently tice them on board us ; though I prc brought to, to try if we were in sume the only difficulty was their not soundings ; but it was the 5th of comprehending what we wanted them November, at nine in the morning, to do, for we could have no commu before we struck ground, and then we nication with them but by signs. hal forty-two fathoms, and a bottom Indeed we often pronounced the word ofgrey sand mixed with shells. When Macao ; but this we had reason to we had got about twenty miles farther suppose they understood in a different WNW., we had thirty-five fathoms, sense ; for in return they sometimes and the same bottom, from whence our held up fish to us, and we afterwards soundings gradually decreased from learned that the Chinese name for fish thirty-five to twenty-five fathoms ; is of a somewhat similar sound. But but soon after, to our great surprise, what surprised us most was the in they jumped back again to thirty attention and want of curiosity which fathoms. This was an alteration we we observed in this herd of fishermen. could not very well account for,¹ since A ship like ours had doubtless never all the charts laid down regular sound been in those seas before ; perhaps there might not be one amongst all 1 In recent maps a sandbank is laid the Chinese employed in this fishery down at this part of the Centurion's who had ever seen any European course. vessel ; so that we might reasonably
133 A FLEET OF CHINESE FISHING -BOATS. 1742. ] have expected to have been considered | shoal or to inform us that they would by them as a very uncommon and ex supply us with a pilot, and in this traordinary object. But though many belief we immediately sent our cutter of their vessels came close to the ship, to the boat to know their intentions ; yet they did not appear to be at all but we were soon made sensible of interested about us, nor did they our mistake, and found that this deviate in the least from their course boat was the commodore of the whole to regard us ; which insensibility, fishery, and that the signal she had especially in maritime persons, about made was to order them all to leave a matter in their own profession, is off fishing and to return in shore, scarcely to be credited, did not the which we saw them instantly obey. general behaviour of the Chinese in On this disappointment we kept on other instances furnish us with con our course, and soon after passed by tinual proofs of a similar turn of mind. two very small rocks which lay four It may perhaps be doubted whether or five miles distant from the shore ; this cast of temper be the effect of but night came on before we got sight nature or education ; but in either of Pedro Blanco, and we therefore case it is an incontestible symptom of brought to till the morning, when we a mean and contemptible disposition, had the satisfaction to discover it. and is alone a sufficient confutation It is a rock of a small circumference, of the extravagant panegyrics which but of a moderate height, and both in many hypothetical writers have be shape and colour resembles a sugar stowed on the ingenuity and capacity loaf, and is about seven or eight miles of this nation. Not being able to from the shore. We passed within a procure any information from the mile and a half of it, and left it be Chinese fishermen about our proper tween us and the land, still keeping course to Macao, it was necessary for on to the westward ; and the next us to rely entirely on our own judg day, being the 7th, we were abreast ment ; and concluding from our lati of a chain of islands which stretched tude, which was 22° 42′ N. , and from from east to west. These, as we after our soundings, which were only seven wards found, were called the Islands teen or eighteen fathoms, that we were of Lema ; they are rocky and barren, yet to the eastward of Pedro Blanco, and are in all, small and great, fifteen we stood to the westward. or sixteen ; and there are besides a It was on the 5th of November at great number of other islands between midnight when we first made the them and the mainland of China. coast of China ; and the next day These islands we left on the starboard about 2 o'clock, as we were standing side, passingwithin four miles ofthem, to the westward within two leagues where we had twenty-four fathoms of the coast, and still surrounded by water. We were still surrounded by fishing-vessels in as great numbers as fishing-boats ; and we once more sent at first, we perceived that a boat ahead the cutter on board one of them to of us waved a red flag, and blew a endeavour to procure a pilot, but could horn. This we considered as a signal not prevail ; however, one of the made to us either to warn us of some Chinese directed us by signs to sail round the westernmost of the islands 1 Mr Walter evidently was strongly or rocks of Lema, and then to haul prejudiced against the Chinese ; but up. We followed this direction, and he knew too little about them to trace in the evening came to an anchor in the conduct of the fishermen to what eighteen fathoms. After having continued at anchor was probably its true source-the con tempt of the people for everything all night, we on the 9th, at four in foreign, and the exclusive policy of the morning, sent our cutter to sound the authorities, under whose vigilant the channel where we proposed to control the fishermen obviously plied pass ; but before the return of the cutter a Chinese pilot put on board their trade.
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III. CH. VII. 134 us, and told us in broken Portuguese | tions and friends ; and where our he would carry us to Macao for thirty countrymen who were lately arrived dollars. These were immediately paid from England would be capable of him, and we then weighed and made answering the numerous inquiries we sail ; and soon after several other were prepared to make both about pilots came on board us, who, to re- public and private occurrences, and commend themselves, produced certi- to relate to us many particulars which, ficates from the captains of several whether of importance or not, would ships they had piloted in ; but we be listened to by us with the utmost continued the ship under the man- attention, after the long suspension agement of the Chinese who came first of our correspondence with our coun on board. By this time we learned try to which the nature of our under that we were not far distant from taking had hitherto subjected us. Macao, and that there were in the River of Canton, at the mouth of which Macao lies, eleven European CHAPTER VII. ships, of which four were English. Our pilot carried us between the Islands of Bamboo and Cabouce ; but THE city of Macao, in the road of the winds hanging in the northern whichwe came to an anchor onthe12th board, and the tides often setting of November, is a Portuguese settle strongly against us, we were obliged ment situated in an island at the mouth to come frequently to an anchor, so of the River of Canton. It was for that we did not get through between merly a very rich and populous city, the two islands till the 12th of No and capable of defending itself against vember at two in the morning. In the power of the adjacent Chinese passing through, our depth of water Governors, but at present it is much was from twelve to fourteen fathoms fallen from its ancient splendour ; for and as we still steered on NW. halfW. , though it is inhabited by Portuguese, between a number of other islands, and has a Governor nominated by our soundings underwent little or the King of Portugal, yet it subsists no variation till towards the even merelybythesufferance of the Chinese, ing, when they increased to seventeen who can starve the place and dispos fathoms, in which , depth (the wind sess the Portuguese whenever they dying away) we anchored not far from please. This obliges the Governor of the Island of Lantoon, which is the Macao to behave with great circum largest of all this range of islands. spection, and carefully to avoid every At seven in the morning we weighed circumstance that may give offence to again, and steering WSW. and SW. the Chinese. The River of Canton, by W., we at 10 o'clock happily an at the mouth of which this city lies, chored in Macao road, in five fathoms is the only Chinese port frequented water, the city of Macao bearing W. by European ships ; and this river is by N., three leagues distant ; the indeed a more commodious harbour peak of Lantoon E. by N., and the on many accounts than Macao. But Grand Ladrone S. by E., each of the peculiar customs of the Chinese, themabout fiveleaguesdistant. Thus, only adapted to the entertainment of after a fatiguing cruise of above two trading ships, and the apprehensions years ' continuance, we once more of the Commodore lest he should arrived in an amicable port in a embroil the East India Company with civilised country, where the conveni the Regency of Canton if he should ences of life were in great plenty ; insist on being treated upon a differ where the naval stores, which we ent footing than the merchantmen, now extremely wanted, could be in made him resolve to go first to Macao some degree procured ; where we ex before he ventured into the port of pected the inexpressible satisfaction Canton. Indeed, had not this reason of receiving letters from our rela prevailed with him, he himself had
PROCEEDINGS AT MACAO. 1742. ] 135 nothing to fear ; for it is certain that This proposalthe Commodore agreed he might have entered the port of to, and in the morning we weighed Canton, and might have continued anchor, and, under the direction of there as long as he pleased, and after the Portuguese pilot, steered for the wards have left it again, although intended harbour. As we entered the whole power of the Chinese em two islands, which form the eastern pire had been brought together to passage to it, we found our soundings oppose him. decreased to three fathoms and a half. The Commodore, not to depart from But the pilot assuring us that this his usual prudence, no sooner came was the least depth we should meet to an anchor in Macao road than he with, we continued our course, till at despatched an officer with his compli length the ship stuck fast in the mud , ments to the Portuguese Governor of with only eighteen feet water abaft ; Macao, requesting his Excellency by and, the tide of ebb making, the the same officer to advise him in what water sewed2 to sixteen feet, but the manner it would be proper to act to ship remained perfectly upright. We avoid offending the Chinese, which, then sounded all round us, and finding as there were then four of our ships the water deepened to the northward, in their power at Canton, was a mat we carried out our small bower with ter worthyof attention. The difficulty two hawsers an-end, and at the re which the Commodore principally ap turn of the tide of flood hove the ship prehended related to the duty usually afloat ; and a small breeze springing paid by all ships in the River of Can- up at the same instant, we set the ton, according to their tonnage. For fore-topsail, and slipping the hawser as men-of-war are exempted in every ran into the harbour, where we foreign harbour from all manner of moored in about five fathoms water. port charges, the Commodore thought This harbour of the Typa is formed it would be derogatory to the honour by a number of islands, and is about of his country to submit to this duty six miles distant from Macao. Here in China ; and therefore he desired we saluted the Castle of Macao with the advice of the Governor of Macao, eleven guns, which were returned by who, being a European, could not be an equal number. The next day the Commodore paid ignorant of the privileges claimed by a British man-of-war, and consequently a visit in person to the Governor, and might be expected to give us the best was saluted at his landing by eleven lights for avoiding this perplexity. guns, which were returned by the Our boat returned in the evening with Centurion. Mr Anson's business in two officers sent by the Governor, who this visit was to solicit the Governor informed the Commodore that it was to grant us a supply of provisions, and the Governor's opinion that if the to furnish us with such stores as were Centurion ventured into the River of necessary to refit the ship. The Go Canton, the duty would certainly be vernor seemed really inclined to do demanded ; and therefore, if the us all the service he could, and assured Commodore approved of it, he would the Commodore, in a friendly man send him a pilot who should conduct ner, that he would privately give us us into another safe harbour, called all the assistance in his power ; but the Typa, ¹ which was every way com he, at the same time, frankly owned modious for careening the ship (an that he dared not openly furnish us operation we were resolved to begin with anything we demanded, unless upon as soon as possible), and where we first procured an order for it from the above-mentioned duty would in the Viceroy of Canton ; for that he all probability be never asked for. neither received provisions for his garrison, nor any other necessaries, 1 The Island ofTypa, directly to the south of Macao, at the mouth of the 2 Sank away from, the ship with the river. out-going tide.
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ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. III . CH. VII . but by permission from the Chinese | merchants were applied to, theyreadily Government ; and as they took care undertook the management of it, and only to furnish him from day to day, promised to answer for its success ; he was indeed no other than their but after near a month's delay, and re vassal, whom they could at all times iterated excuses, duringwhichinterval compel to submit to their own terms, they pretended to be often upon the only by laying an embargo on his point of completing the business, they at last (being pressed, and measures provisions. On this declaration ofthe Governor, being taken for delivering a letter to Mr Anson resolved himself to go to the Viceroy) threw off the mask, and Canton to procure a license from the declared they neither had applied to Viceroy, and he accordingly hired a the Viceroy, nor could they, for he Chinese boat for himself and his at was too great a man, they said, for tendants ; but just as he was ready them to approach on any occasion. to embark, the " hoppo, " or Chinese And not contented with having them custom-house officer at Macao, refused selves thus grossly deceived the Com to grant a permit to the boat, and or modore, they now used all their per dered the watermen not to proceed at suasion with the English at Canton their peril. The Commodore at first en to prevent them from intermeddling deavoured to prevail with the " hoppo " with anything that regarded him, re to withdraw his injunction and to presenting to them that it would in grant a permit ; and the Governor of all probability embroil them with the Macao employed his interest with the Government, and occasion them a " hoppo " to the same purpose. Mr great deal of unnecessary trouble ; Anson, seeing the officer inflexible, which groundless insinuations had, told him the next day, that if he indeed, but too much weight with longer refused to grant the permit, those they were applied to. he would man and arm his own boats It may be difficult to assign a to carry him thither ; asking the reason for this perfidious conduct of " hoppo, " at the same time, who he the Chinese merchants. Interest , imagined would dare to oppose him. indeed, is known to exert a boundless This threat immediately brought influence over the inhabitants of that aboutwhat his entreaties had laboured empire ; but how their interest could for in vain ; the permit was grantel, be affected in the present case is not and Mr Anson went to Canton. On easy to discover, unless they appre his arrival there, he consulted with hended that the presence of a ship of the supercargoes and officers of the force might damp their Manilla trade, English ships how to procure an and therefore acted in this manner order from the Viceroy for the neces with a view of forcing the Commo saries he wanted ; but in this he had dore to Batavia ; but it might be as reason to suppose that the advice natural in this light to suppose that they gave him, though doubtless well they would have been eager to have I therefore intended, was yet not the most pru got him despatched. dent ; for as it is the custom with rather impute their behaviour to the these gentlemen never to apply to unparalleled pusillanimity of the the supreme magistrate himself, what nation, and to the awe they are ever difficulties they labour under, under of the Government ; for as but to transact all matters relating to such a ship as the Centurion, fitted the Government by the mediation of for war only, had never been seen in the principal Chinese merchants, Mr those parts before, she was the horror Anson was advised to follow the same of these dastards, and the merchants method upon this occasion ; the Eng were in some degree terrified even lish promising (in which they were with the idea of her, and could not doubtless sincere) to exert all their think of applying to the Viceroy interest to engage the merchants in (who is doubtless fond of all oppor his favour. And when the Chinese tunities of fleecing them) without re
1742. ]
DIFFICULTY OF OBTAINING SUPPLIES.
presenting to themselves the pretences which a hungry and tyrannical magistrate might possibly find for censuring their intermeddling in so unusual a transaction, in which he might pretend the interest of the State was immediately concerned . However, be this as it may, the Commodore was satisfied that nothing was to be done by the interposition of the merchants, as it was on his pressing them to deliver a letter to the Viceroy that they had declared they durst not intermeddle, and had confessed that notwithstanding all their pretences of serving him, they had not yet taken one step towards it. Mr Anson therefore told them that he would proceed to Batavia and refit his ship there ; but informed them, at the same time, that this was impossible to be done unless he was supplied with a stock of provisions sufficient for his passage. The merchants on this undertook to procure him provisions, but assured him that it was what they durst not engage in openly, but proposed to manage it in a clandestine manner, by putting a quantity of bread, flour, and other provision on board the English ships, which were now ready to sail ; and these were to stop at the mouth of the Typa, where the Centurion's boats were to receive it. This article, which the merchants represented as a matter of great favour, being settled, the Commodore, on the 16th of December, returned from Canton to the ship, seemingly resolved to proceed to Batavia to refit as soon as he should get his supplies of provision on board. But Mr Anson (who never intended going to Batavia) found, on his re turn to the Centurion, that her main mast was sprung in two places, and that the leak was considerably in creased ; so that, upon the whole, he was fully satisfied that though he should lay in a sufficient stock of pro visions, yet it would be impossible for him to put to sea without refitting. For, if he left the port with his ship in her present condition, she would be in the utmost danger of founder
137
ing ; and therefore, notwithstanding the difficulties he had met with, he re solved at all events to have her hove down before he left Macao. He was fully convinced, by what he had ob served at Canton, that his great caution not to injure the East India Company's affairs, and the regard he had shown to the advice of their officers, had occasioned all his em barrassments. Forhe now saw clearly, that if he had at first carried his ship into the River of Canton, and had immediately applied himself to the mandarins, who are the chief officers of State, instead of employing the merchants to apply for him, he would in all probability have had all his re quests granted, and would have been soon despatched. He had already lost a month by the wrong measures he had been put upon, but he re solved to lose as little more time as possible ; and therefore, the 17th of December, being the next day after his return from Canton, he wrote a letter to the Viceroy of that place, acquainting him that he was com mander-in-chief of a squadron of his Britannic Majesty'sships of war, which had been cruising for two years past in the South Seas against the Span iards, who were at war with the King his master ; that, in his way back to England, he had put into the port of Macao, having a considerable feak in his ship, and being in great want of provisions, so that it was impossible for him to proceed on his voyage till his ship was repaired, and he was supplied with the necessaries he wanted ; that he had been at Canton in hopes of being admitted to a per sonal audience of his Excellency, but, being a stranger to the customs of the country, he had not been able to inform himself what steps were neces sary to be taken to procure such an audience ; and therefore was obliged to apply to him in this manner, to desire his Excellency to give orders for his being permitted to employ carpenters and proper workmen to refit his ship, and to furnish himself with provisions and stores, thereby to enable him to pursue his voyage to
138 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [B. III . CH. VII . Great Britain with this monsoon ; | desiring the ship's boat might be sent hoping at the same time that these to fetch him on board. The Centur orders would be issued with as little ion'sboat was immediately despatched , delay as possible, lest it might occa- and preparations were made for receiv sion his loss of the season, and he ing him ; for a hundred of the most might be prevented from departing sightly of the crew were uniformly till the next winter. dressed in the regimentals of the mar This letter was translated into the ines, and were drawn up under arms Chinese language, and the Commodore29 on the main- deck, against his arrival. When he entered the ship he was delivered it himself to the " hoppo or chief officer of the Emperor's cus saluted by the drums, and what other toms at Macao, desiring him to for military music there was on board ; ward it to the Viceroy of Canton with and passing by the new-formed guard, as much expedition as he could. The he was met by the Commodore on the officer at first seemed unwilling to take quarter-deck, who conducted him to charge of it, and raised many diffi the great cabin. Here the mandarin culties about it, so that Mr Anson explained his commission, declaring suspected him of being in league with that his business was to examine all the merchants of Canton, who had the particulars mentioned in the Com always shown a great apprehension of modore's letter to the Viceroy, and to the Commodore's having any imme confront them with the representation diate intercourse with the Viceroy or that had been given of them ; that he mandarins ; and therefore the Com was particularly instructed to inspect modore, with some resentment, took"" the leak, and had for that purpose back his letter from the " hoppo, brought with him two Chinese car and told him he would immediately penters ; and that, for the greater send an officer with it to Canton in regularity and despatch of his busi his own boat, and would give him ness, he had every head of inquiry positive orders not to return without separately written down on a sheet of an answer from the Viceroy. The paper, with a void space opposite to “ hoppo ” perceiving the Commodore it where he was to insert such infor to be in earnest, and fearing to be mation and remarks thereon as he called to an account for his refusal, could procure by his own observation. begged to be entrusted with the letter, This mandarin appeared to be a and promised to deliver it and to pro person of very considerable parts, and cure an answer as soon as possible. endowed with more frankness and And now it was soon seen how justly honesty than is to be found in the Mr Anson had at last judged of the generality of the Chinese. After the proper manner of dealing with the proper inquiries had been made, par Chinese ; for this letter was written ticularly about the leak, which the but the 17th of December, as has been Chinese carpenters reported to be as already observed, and on the 19th in dangerous as it had been represented, the morning a mandarin of the first and consequently that it was impos rank, who was Governor of the city of sible for the Centurion to proceed to Janson, together with two mandarins sea without being refitted, the man of an inferior class, and a great retinue darin expressed himself satisfied with of officers and servants, having with the account given in the Commodore's them eighteen half-galleys decorated letter. And this magistrate, as he with a great number of streamers, and was more intelligent than any other furnished with music, and full of men, person of his nation that came to our came to grapnel ahead of the Centur knowledge, so likewise was he more ion ; whence the mandarin sent a curious and inquisitive, viewing each message to the Commodore, telling part of the ship with particular atten him that he (the mandarin) was order tion, and appearing greatly surprised ed by the Viceroy of Canton, to ex at the largeness of the lower-deck amine the condition of the ship, and guns, and at the weight and size of
INTERVIEW WITH A MANDARIN. 139 1742.1 the shot. The Commodore, observing | plenty to which their eyes were every his astonishment, thought this a pro day witnesses. To this the Commo peropportunity to convince the Chinese dore added (though perhaps with a of the prudence of granting him a less serious air) that if by the delay of speedy and ample supply of all he supplying him with fresh provisions wanted. With this view he told the his men should be reduced to the ne mandarin, and those who were with cessity of turning cannibals, and prey. him, that besides the demands he ing upon their own species, it was made for a general supply, he had a easy to be foreseen that, independent particular complaint against the pro of their friendship to their comrades, ceedings ofthecustom-house of Macao ; they would in point of luxury prefer that athisfirstarrival the Chinese boats the plump, well-fed Chinese to their had brought on board plentyofgreens, own emaciated shipmates. The first and variety offresh provisions for daily mandarin acquiesced in the justness use, for which they had always been of this reasoning, and told the Com paid to their full satisfaction , but that modore that he should that night the custom-house officers at Macao proceed for Canton ; that on his had soon forbid them, by which means arrival a council of mandarins would he was deprived of those refreshments be summoned, of which he himself which were of the utmost consequence was a member, and that by being to the health of his men after their employed in the present commission long and sickly voyage ; that as they, he was of course the Commodore's the mandarins, had informed them advocate ; that, as he was fully con selves of his wants, and were eyewit vinced of the urgency of Mr Anson's nesses of the force and strength of his necessity, he did not doubt but on his ship, they might be satisfied it was representation the council would be of not for want of power to supply him the same opinion, and that all that self that he desired the permission of was demanded would be amply and the Government to purchase what speedily granted. And with regard provisions he stood in need of ; that to the Commodore's complaint of the they must be convinced that the custom-house of Macao, he undertook Centurion alone was capable of de to rectify that immediately byhis own stroying the whole navigation of the authority ; for, desiring a list to be port of Canton, or of any other port given him of the quantity of provision in China, without running the least necessary for the expense of the ship risk from all the force the Chinese for a day, he wrote a permit under it, could collect ; that it was true this and delivered it to one of his attend was not the manner of proceeding be ants, directing him to see thatquantity tween nations in friendship with each sent on board early every morning ; other, but it was likewise true that and this order from that time forward it was not customary for any nation was punctually complied with. to permit the ships of their friends to When this weighty affair was thus starve and sink in their ports, when in some degree regulated, the Com those friends had money to supply modore invited him and his two at their wants, and only desired liberty tendant mandarins to dinner, telling to lay it out ; that they must confess them at the same time that if his pro heand his people had hitherto behaved vision, either in kind or quantity, with great modesty and reserve, but was not what they might expect, they that, as his wants were each day in must thank themselves for having creasing, hunger would at last prove confined him to so hard an allowance. too strong for any restraint, and One of his dishes was beef, which necessity was acknowledged in all the Chinese all dislike, though Mr countries to be superior to every other Anson was not apprised of it ; this law, and therefore it could not be ex seems to be derived from the Indian pected that his crew would long con superstition, which for some ages past tinue to starve in the midst of that has made a great progress in China.
140
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [B. III . CH . VII. However, his guests did not entirely with the rest of mankind, and often fast ; for the three mandarins com making use of the authority of the pletely finished the white part of four law not to suppress crimes, but to large fowls. But they were extremely enrich themselves by the pillage of embarrassed with their knives and those who commit them. For capital forks, and were quiteincapable of mak punishments are rare in China, the ing use of them ; so that, after some effeminate genius of the nation, and fruitless attempts to help themselves, their strong attachment to lucre, dis which were sufficiently awkward, one posing them rather to make use of of the attendants was obliged to cut fines ; and hence arises no inconsider their meat in small pieces for them. able profit to those who compose their But whatever difficulty they might tribunals. Consequently prohibitions have in complying with the European of all kinds, particularly such as the manner of eating, they seemed not to alluring prospect of great profit may be novices in drinking. The Commo often tempt the subject to infringe, dore excused himself in this part of cannot but be favourite institutions in the entertainment, under the pretence such a government. Some time before this, Captain of illness ; but there being another gentleman present, of a florid and jov Saunders took his passage to England ial complexion, the chief mandarin on board a Swedish ship, and was clapped him on the shoulder, and told charged with despatches from the him by the interpreter that certainly Commodore ; and soon after, in the he could not plead sickness, and there month of December, Captain Mitchel, fore insisted on his bearing him com Colonel Cracherode, and Mr Tassel, pany ; and that gentleman perceiving one of the agent-victuallers, with his that after they had despatched four or nephew, Mr Charles Harriot, em five bottles of Frontiniac, themandarin barked on board some of our Com still continued unruffled, he ordered a pany's ships ; and I, having obtained bottle of citron-water to be brought the Commodore's leave to return home, up, which the Chinese seemed much einbarked with them. I must ob to relish ; and this being near finished serve, too (having omitted it before), they arose from table, in appearance that whilst we lay here at Macao we cool and uninfluenced by what they were informed by some of the officers had drunk. And the Commodore hav of our Indiamen that the Severn and ing, according to custom, made the Pearl, the two ships of our squadron mandarin a present, they all departed which had separated from us off Cape in the same vessels that brought them. Noir, were safely arrived at RioJaneiro, After their departure the Commo on the coast of Brazil ; and it was with dore with great impatience expected great joy we received the news, after the resolution of the council, and the the strong persuasion which had so necessary licenses for his refitment. long prevailed amongst us, of their For it must be observed, as has already having both perished. appeared from the preceding narra Notwithstanding the favourable tion, that he could neither purchase disposition of the mandarin Gover stores nor necessaries with his money, nor of Janson at his leaving Mr nor did any kind of workmen dare to Anson, several days were elapsed be engage themselves to work for him, fore he had any advice from him, and without the permission of the Govern Mr Anson was privately informed ment first obtained. And in the exc there were great debates in council cution of these particular injunctions upon his affair ; partly, perhaps, ow the magistrates never fail of exercising ing to its being so unusual a case, and great severity, they, notwithstanding in part to the influence, as I suppose, the fustian eulogiums bestowed upon of the intrigues of the French at Can them by the Catholic missionaries ton. For they had a countryman and and their European copiers, being fast friend residing on the spot, who composed ofthe same fragile materials | spoke the language very well, and
141 THE CENTURION REFITTED. 1742-3.j was not unacquainted with the venal them to work by the day ; but that ity of the Government, nor with the proposal they would not hearken to, persons of several of the magistrates, so it was at last agreed that the car and consequently could not be at a penters should have to the amount of loss for means of traversing the assist abt £600 for their work, and that ance desired by Mr Anson. And this the smiths should be paid for their opposition by the French was not iron work by weight, allowing them merely the effect of national prejudice at the rate of £3 a hundred nearly or contrariety of political interests, for the small work, and 46s. for the but was in good measure owing to large. their vanity, a motive of much more It was the beginning of April before weight with the generality of mankind they had new-rigged the ship, stowed than any attachment to the public their provisions and water on board, service of their community. For the and fitted her for the sea ; and before French pretending their Indiamen to this time the Chinese grew very un be men-of-war, their officers were easy, and extremely desirous that she apprehensive that any distinction should be gone ; either not knowing, granted to Mr Anson, on account of or pretending not to believe, that this his bearing the King's commission, was a point the Commodore was as would render them less considerable eagerly set on as they could be. On in the eyes of the Chinese, and would the 3d of April two mandarin boats establish a prepossession at Canton in came on board from Macao to urge favour of ships of war, by which they, his departure ; and this having been as trading vessels, would suffer in their often done before, though there had importance ; and I wish the affecta been no pretence to suspect Mr Anson tion of endeavouring to pass for men of any affected delays, he at this last of-war, and the fear of sinking in message answered them in a deter the estimation of the Chinese if the mined tone, desiring them to give him Centurion was treated in a different no further trouble, for he would go manner from themselves, had been when he thought proper and not be confined to the officers of the French fore. On this rebuke the Chinese ships only. However, notwithstand (though it was not in their power to ing all these obstacles, it should seem compel him to be gone) immediately that the representation of the Com prohibited all provisions from being modore to the mandarins ofthe facility carried on board him, and took such with which he could right himself, if care that their injunctions should be justice were denied him, had at last complied with, that from that time its effect ; for on the 6th of January, forwards nothing could be purchased in the morning, the Governor of Jan at any rate whatever. son, the Commodore's advocate, sent On the 6th of April the Centurion down the Viceroy of Canton's warrant weighed from the Typa, and warped for the refitment of the Centurion, to the southward, and by the 15th and for supplying her people with all she was got into Macao road, com they wanted ; and next day a number ploting her water as she passed along, of Chinese smiths and carpenters went so that there remained now very few on board to agree for all the work by articles more to attend to ; and her the great. 2 They demanded at first whole business being finished by the to the amount of £1000 sterling for 19th, she at three in the afternoon of the necessary repairs of the ship, the that day weighed and made sail, and boats, and the masts. This the Com stood to sea. modore seemed to think an unreason able sum, and endeavoured to persuade CHAPTER VIII. 1 Glancing, apparently, at the jeal THE Commodore was now got to sea, ousies of the English merchants. In the lump, or for the whole job, with his ship very well refitted, his
142 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III. CH. VIII . stores replenished, and an additional | But this disproportion of strength did stock of provisions on board. His not deter him, as he knew his ship to be crew, too, was somewhat reinforced ; much better fitted for a sea engagement for he had entered twenty-three men than theirs, and as he had reason to during his stay at Macao, the greatest expect that his men would exert them. part of which were Lascars or Indian selves in the most extraordinary man sailors, and some few Dutch.1 He nerwhen they had in viewthe immense gave out at Macao that he was bound wealth of these Manilla galleons. to Batavia, and thence to England ; This project the Commodore had and though the western monsoon was resolved on in his own thoughts ever now set in, when that passage is con since his leaving the coast of Mexico ; sidered as impracticable, yet by the and the greatest mortification which confidence he had expressed in the he received from the various delays strength of his ship and the dexterity he had met with in China was his ap of his people he had persuaded not only prehension lest he might be thereby his own crew, but the people at Macao so long retarded as to let the galleons likewise, that he proposed to try this escape him. Indeed at Macao it was unusual experiment ; so that there incumbent on him to keep these views were many letters put on board him extremely secret, forthere being a great by the inhabitants of Canton and intercourse and a mutual connection Macao for their friends at Batavia. of interests between that port and But his real design was of a very Manilla, he had reason to fear that if different nature ; for he knew that his designs were discovered, intelli instead of one annual ship from Aca gence would be immediately sent to pulco to Manilla there would be this Manilla, and measures would be taken year, in all probability, two, since by to prevent the galleons from falling being before Acapulco, he had pre into his hands. But being now at vented one of them from putting to sea, and entirely clear of the coast, he sea the preceding season. He there summoned all his people on the quar fore resolved to cruise for these return ter-deck, and informed them of his ing vessels off Cape Espiritu Santo, on resolution to cruise for the two Man the Island of Samal, which is the illa ships, of whose wealth they were first land they always make in the not ignorant. He told them he should Philippine Islands. And as June is choose a station where he could not generally the month in which they fail ofmeeting with them ; and though arrive there, he doubted not but he theywerestoutships, and full-manned , should get to his intended station in yet, if his own people behaved with time enough to intercept them. It is their accustomed spirit, he was cer true, they were said to be stout vessels, tain he should prove too hard for them mounting 44 guns a-piece, and carry both, and that one of them at least ing above 500 hands, and might be could not fail of becoming his prize. expected to return in company ; and He further added, that many ridicul he himself had but 227 hands on ous tales had been propagated about board, ofwhich near thirty were boys. the strength of the sides of these ships, and their being impenetrable 1 Yet the ship's company was de to cannon-shot ; that these fictions plorably far short of her requirements ; had been principally invented to pal for Anson says in his Official Report : liate the cowardice of those who had " The number of men I have now formerly engaged them ; but he hoped borne is 201 , amongst which are in there were none of those present weak cluded all the officers and boys which enough to give credit to so absurd a I had out of the Gloucester, Trial story. For his own part, he did as prize, and Anna pink, so that I have sure them upon his word that, when ever he met with them, he would not the mast five before able seamen . " more than forty fight them so near that they should find his bullets, instead of being stop
1743. ] DESIGNS OF THE COMMODORE. 143 ped by one of their sides, should go | discovered from the .nasthead five through them both. small islands, which were judged to This speech of the Commodore's be the Bashees, and they had after was received by his people with great wards a sight of Botel Tobago Xima. joy, for no sooner had he ended than Bythis means they had anopportunity they expressed their approbation, ac of correcting the position of the Bashee cording to naval custom, by three Islands, which had been hitherto laid strenuous cheers, and all declared down twenty-five leagues too far to their determination to succeed or per the westward ; for by their observa ish whenever the opportunity pre tions they esteemedthe middle of sented itself. And now their hopes, these Aslands to be in 21° 4' N. , and to which since their departure from the bear from Botel Tobago Xima SSE. , coast of Mexico had entirely subsided, twenty leagues distant, that island were again revived ; and they all per itself being in 21° 57′ N. After get suaded themselves that, notwithstand ting a sight of the Bashee Islands they ing the various casualties and disap stood between the S. and SW. for pointments they had hitherto met Cape Espiritu Santo, and the 20th of with, they should yet be repaid the May at noon they first discovered that price of their fatigues, and should at cape, which, about 4 o'clock, they last return home enriched with the brought to bear SSW. , about eleven spoils of the enemy. For, firmly re leagues distant. It appeared to be of lying on the assurances of the Com a moderate height, with several round modore that they should certainly hummocks on it. As it was known meet with the vessels, they were all that there were sentinels placed upon of them too sanguine to doubt a mo this cape to make signals to the Aca ment of mastering them ; so that they pulco ship when she first falls in with considered themselves as having them the land, the Commodore immediately already in their possession . And this tacked, and ordered the top-gallant confidence was so universally spread sails to be taken in to prevent being through the whole ship's company discovered ; and this being the sta that, the Commodore having taken tion in which it was resolved to cruise some Chinese sheep to sea with him for the galleons, they kept the cape for his own provision, and one day between the S. and W., and endea inquiring of his butcher why for some voured to confine themselves between time past he had seen no mutton at the Latitude of 12° 50′ and 13° 5′, the his table, asking him if all the sheep cape itself lying, by their observations, were killed, the butcher very seriously in 12° 40′ N. and 4° of E. Longitude replied that there were indeed two from Botel Tobago Xima. It was the last of May, bythe foreign sheep left ; but that if his honour 1 would give him leave, he proposed to style, whenthey arrived off this Cape ; keep those for the entertainment of and the month of June, by the same style, being that in which the Manilla the General of the galleons. When the Centurion left the port ships are usually expected, the Cen of Macao she stood for some days to turion's people were now waiting each the westward ; and on the 1st of May hour with the utmost impatience for they saw part of the Island of For the happy crisis which was to balance mosa, and, standing thence to the the account of all their past calami southward, they on the 4th of May ties. As from this time there was but were in the latitude of the Bashee small employment for the crew, the Islands, as laid down by Dampier ; Commodore ordered them almost every but they suspected his account of in day to be exercised in the manage accuracy, as they found that he had ment of the great guns, and in the been considerably mistaken in the use of their small arms. This had latitude of the south end of Formosa. been his practice, more or less, at all For this reason they kept a good look out, and about seven in the evening 1 New Style.
144
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III. Cп. VIII. convenient seasons during the whole weigh with this view ; but the prin course of his voyage ; and the advan cipal ship not being ready, and the tages which he received from it in his monsoon being against them, the engagement with the galleon were an commerce and the Government dis ample recompense for all his care and agreed, and the enterprise was laid attention. [The men] were taught aside. This frequent discovery of the the shortest method of loading with Centurion from the shore was some cartridges, and were constantly trained what extraordinary, for the pitch of to fire at a mark, which was usually the cape is not high, and she usually hung at the yard-arm, and some little kept from ten to fifteen leagues dis reward was given to the most expert. tant ; though once, indeed, by an in The whole crew, by this manage draught of the tide as was supposed, ment, were rendered extremely skilful, they found themselves in the morning quick in loading, all of them good within seven leagues of the land. marksmen, and some of them most As the month of June advanced, extraordinary ones ; so that I doubt the expectancy and impatience of the not but, in the use of small arms, Commodore's people each day increas they were more than a match for ed. And I think no better idea can double their number who had not be given of their great eagerness on been habituated to the same kind of this occasion than by copying a few exercise. paragraphs from the journal of an It was the last of May, N.S. , as has officer who was then on board, as it been already said, when the Centurion will, I presume, be a more natural arrived off Cape Espiritu Santo, and picture of the full attachment of their consequently the next day began the thoughts to the business of their cruise month in which the galleons were to than can be given by any other means. be expected. The Commodore there The paragraphs I have selected, as fore made all necessary preparations they occur in order of time, are as for receivingthem, having hoisted out follow: 66 his long-boat, and lashed her along May 31. -Exercising our men at side, that the ship might be ready for their quarters, in great expectation of engaging if they fell in with the gal meeting with the galleons very soon ; leons in the night. All this time, this being the 11th of June their too, he was very solicitous to keep at style. such a distance from the cape as not " June 3.-Keeping in our stations to be discovered ; but it has been and looking out for the galleons. since learned that, notwithstanding " June 5.- Begin now to be in his care, he was seen from the land ; great expectations, this being the and advice of him was sent to Manilla, middle of June their style. where it was at first disbelieved ; but " June 11. -Begin to grow impa on reiterated intelligence (for it seems tient at not seeing the galleons. he was seen more than once) the mer " June 13.-Thewind having blown chants were alarmed, and the Governor fresh easterly for the forty-eight hours was applied to, who undertook (the past gives us great expectations of see commerce supplying the necessary ing the galleons soon. 66 June 15.-Cruising on and off, sums) to fit out a force consisting of two ships of 32 guns, one of 20 guns, and looking out strictly. " June 19.- This being the last day and two sloops of 10 guns each, to attack the Centurion on her station. of June, N.S. , the galleons, if99 they And some of these vessels did actually arrive at all, must appear soon.' From these samples it is sufficiently evident, how completely the treasure That is, the commercial com "" trade " munity collectively ; as is of the galleons had engrossed their used, early in the narrative, to sig imagination, and how anxiously they nify the collection of merchant ships passed the latter part of their cruise, sailing under convoy. when the certainty of the arrival of
PREPARED TO MEET THE GALLEON. 145 1743. ] these vessels was dwindled down to in actions of this kind. He picked probability only, and that probability out about thirty of his choicest hands became each hour more and more and best marksmen, whom he distri doubtful. However, on the 20th of buted into his tops, and who fully June, Q.S., being just a month from answered his expectation by the sig their arrival on their station, they nal services they performed. As he were relieved from this state of uncer had not hands enough remaining to tainty when, at sunrise, they discov- quarter a sufficient number to each ered a sail from the masthead in the great gun in the customary manner, SE. quarter.¹ On this a general joy he therefore, on his lower tier, fixed spread through the whole ship ; for only two men to each gun, who were they had no doubt but this was one to be solely employed in loading it, of the galleons, and they expected whilst the rest of his people were soon to see the other. The Commo- divided into different gangs of ten or dore instantly stood towards her, and twelve men each, who were constantly at half-an-hour after seven they were moving about the decks, to run out near enough to see her from the Cen- and fire such guns as were loaded. turion's deck ; at which time the gal- By this management he was enabled leon fired a gun, and took in her top- to make use of all his guns ; and, gallant sails, which was supposed to instead of firing broadsides with in be a signal to her consort to hasten tervals between them, he kept up a her up ; and therefore the Centurion constant fire without intermission, fired a gun to leeward, to amuse her. whence he doubted not to procure The Commodore was surprised to find very signal advantages. For it is that in all this time the galleon did common with the Spaniards to fall not change her course, but continued down upon the decks when they see to bear down upon him ; for he hardly a broadside preparing, and to continue believed, what afterwards appeared to in that posture till it is given ; after be the case, that she knew his ship which they rise again, and, presuming to be the Centurion and resolved to the danger to be for some time over, fight him. work their guns, and fire with great About noon the Commodore was briskness, till another broadside is little more than a league distant from ready : but the firing gun by gun, in the galleon, and could fetch her wake, the manner directed by the Commo so that she could not now escape ; dore, rendered this practice of theirs and, no second ship appearing, it impossible. was concluded that she had been The Centurion being thus prepared, separated from her consort. Soon and nearing the galleon apace, there after, the galleon hauled up her fore happened, a little after noon, several sail, and brought to under topsails, squalls of wind and rain, which often with her head to the northward, obscured the galleon from their sight ; hoisting Spanish colours, and having but whenever it cleared up they ob the standard of Spain flying at the top served her resolutely lying to ; and, gallant-masthead. Mr Anson in the towards 1 o'clock, the Centurion meantime had prepared all things for hoisted her broad pendant and colours, an engagement on board the Centur she being then within gun-shot of the ion, and had taken all possible care enemy. And the Commodore observ. both for the most effectual exertion of ing the Spaniards to have neglected his small strength, and for avoiding clearing their ship till that time, as the confusion and tumult too frequent he then saw them throwing overboard cattle and lumber, he gave orders to 1 Thomas commemorates the name fire upon them with the chase guns, of Mr Charles Proby, midshipman, to embarrass them in their work, and as having been the first on board to prevent them from completing it, discover the long-looked-for treasure though his general directions had ship. been not to engage till they were K
146 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III . CH. VIII. within pistol-shot. The galleon re- | nal situation, and was close alongside turned the fire with two of her stern- the galleon, and the enemy continued chasers ; ¹ and the Centurion getting to fire briskly for near an hour longer, her spritsail-yard fore and aft, that if yet at last theCommodore's grape-shot necessary she might be ready for swept their decks so effectually, and boarding, the Spaniards in a bravado the number of their slain and wound rigged their spritsail-yard fore and ed was so considerable, that they began aft likewise. Soon after, the Centur- to fall into great disorder ; especially ion came abreast of the enemy within as the General, who was the life of the pistol-shot, keeping to the leeward, action, was no longer capable of exert with a view of preventing them from ing himself. Their embarrassment putting before the wind and gaining was visible from on board the Com the port of Jalapay, from which they modore. For the ships were so near, were about seven leagues distant. And that some of the Spanish officers were now the engagement began in earnest, seen running about with great assi and for the first half-hour Mr Anson duity to prevent the desertion of their overreached the galleon, and lay on men from their quarters. But all her bow; where by the great wide- their endeavours were in vain, for ness of his ports he could traverse after having, as a last effort, fired five almost all his guns upon the enemy, or six guns with more judgment than whilst the galleon could only bring a usual, they gave up the contest ; and, part of hers to bear. Immediately on the galleon's colours being singed off the commencement of the action, the the ensign staff in the beginning ofthe mats with which the galleon had engagement, she struck the standard stuffed her netting took fire, and at her maintop-gallant masthead, the burned violently, blazing up half as person who was employed to do it high as the mizzentop. This accident having been in imminent peril of (supposed to be caused by the Cen- being killed, had not the Commodore, turion's wads) threw the enemy into who perceived what he was about, great confusion, and at the same time given express orders to his people to alarmed the Commodore, for he feared desist from firing. lest the galleon should be burned, and Thus was the Centurion possessed of lest he himself too might suffer by this rich prize, amounting in value to her driving on board him. But the near a million and a half of dollars. Spaniards at last freed themselves She was called the Nuestra Señora de from the fire, by cutting away the Cabadonga, and was commanded by netting, and tumbling the whole mass the General Don Jeronimo de Montero, which was in flames into the sea. But a Portuguese by birth, and the most still the Centurion kept her first ad approved officer for skill and courage vantageous position, firing her can of any employed in that service. The non with great regularity and brisk galleon was much larger than the ness, whilst at the same time the Centurion, had 550 men and 36 guns galleon's decks lay open to her top- mounted for action, besides twenty men, who having at their first volley eight pidreroes in her gunwale, quar driven the Spaniards from their tops, ters, and tops, each of which carried made prodigious havoc with their a four-pound ball. She was very well small arms, killing or wounding every furnished with small arms, and was officer but one that ever appeared on particularly provided against board the quarter-deck, and wounding in ing, both by her close quarters, and particular the General of the galleon by a strong net-work of two inch rope himself. And though the Centurion, which was laced over her waist and after the first half-hour, lost her origi was defended by half pikes.3 She
1 " One of which, " Thomas records , " carried away one of our fore shrouds 3 Placed in the manner of chevaux and our forestay tackle. ' de frise .
1743. ] THE GALLEON TAKEN. 147 The Commodore made his first had sixty-seven killed in the action and eighty-four wounded ; whilst the lieutenant, Mr Saumarez, captain of Centurion had only two killed, and a this prize, appointing her a post-ship Captain lieutenant and sixteen wounded, all in his Majesty's service. of whom but one recovered : of so Saumarez, before night, sent on board little consequence are the most de the Centurion all the Spanish prison structive arms in untutored and un ers but such as were thought the most practised hands.¹ proper to be retained to assist in na The treasure thus taken by the vigating the galleon. And now the Centurion having been for at least Commodore learned from some of eighteen months the great object of these prisoners that the other ship, their hopes, it is impossible to describe which he had kept in the port of the transport on board when, after all Acapulco the preceding year, instead their reiterated disappointments, they of returning in company with the at last saw their wishes accomplished, present prize, as was expected, had But their joy was near being suddenly set sail from Acapulco alone much damped by a most tremendous inci sooner than usual, and had in all dent for no sooner had the galleon probability got into the port of Man struck, than one of the lieutenants, illa long before the Centurion arrived coming to Mr Anson to congratulate off Cape Espiritu Santo ; so that Mr him on his prize, whispered him at Anson, notwithstanding his present the same time that the Centurion was success, had great reason to regret dangerously on fire near the powder his loss of time at Macao, which pre room. The Commodore received this vented him from taking two rich dreadful news without any apparent prizes instead of one.¹ The Commodore, when the action emotion, and, taking care not to alarm his people, gave the necessary was ended, resolved to make the best orders for extinguishing it, which was of his way with his prize for the happily done in a short time, though River of Canton, being in the mean its appearance at first was extremely time fully employed in securing his terrible. It seems some cartridges prisoners, and in removing the trea had been blown up by accident be sure from on board the galleon into tween decks, whereby a quantity of the Centurion. The last of these oakum in the after hatchway, near the operations was too important to be after powder-room, was set on fire ; postponed ; for as the navigation to and the great smother and smoke of Canton was through seas but little the oakum occasioned the apprehen known, and where, from the season sion of a more extended and mischiev of the year, much bad weather might ous fire. At the same instant, too, be expected, it was of great conse the galleon fell on board the Centurion on the starboard quarter, but she was 2 Among the prisoners, we are told cleared without doing or receiving any by Thomas, was 66 an old gentleman, considerable damage. Governor of Guam, who was going to Manilla to renew his commission, and 1 Thomas, who was one of the party who had scarce mounted the Cen sent on board as prize crew, says : "I turion's side before he was received had heard we had killed them sixty with open arms by Mr Crooden, cap men, and wounded as many more, tain of marines, who thirty-six years and expected to have seen the horrid before, at the battle of Almanza, had spectacle of mangled limbs, dead car been his prisoner, and honourably casses, and decks covered with blood ; used by him. These two renewed but no such spectacle appeared ; a their old acquaintance, and Captain party having been properly stationed, Crooden had a long-wished- for oppor during the time of action, to wash tunity of returning the favours he away the blood, and to throw the had formerly received, and which he dead overboard." gratefully remembered. "
148 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [ B.III.Cп.VIII. quence that the treasure should be six men ; and the General, as he was sent on board the Centurion ; which wounded, lay in the Commodore's ship, by the presence of the Com cabin with a sentinel always with mander-in-chief, the greater number him ; and they were all informed of her hands, and her other advan that any violence or disturbance tages, was doubtless much safer against would be punished with instant all the casualties of winds and seas death. And that the Centurion's than the galleon. And the securing people might be at all times prepared, the prisoners was a matter of still if notwithstanding these regulations more consequence, as not only the any tumult should arise, the small possession of the treasure, but the arms were constantly kept loaded in lives of the captors depended thereon. a proper place, whilst all the men This was indeed an article which gave went armed with cutlasses and pis the Commodore much trouble and tols ; and no officer ever pulled off disquietude, for they were above his clothes, and when he slept had double the number of his own people ; always his arms lying ready by and some of them, when they were him. These measures were obviously ne brought on board the Centurion, and had observed how slenderly she was cessary, considering the hazards to manned, and the large proportion which the Commodore and his people which the striplings bore to the rest, would have been exposed had they could not help expressing themselves been less careful. Indeed the suffer with great indignation to be thus ings of the poor prisoners, though beaten by a handful of boys. The impossible to be alleviated, were much method which was taken to hinder to be commiserated ; for the weather them from rising was by placing all was extremely hot, the stench of the but the officers and the wounded in hold loathsome beyond all conception, the hold, where, to give them as much and their allowance of water but just air as possible, two hatchways were sufficient to keep them alive, it not left open; but then (to avoid all being practicable to spare them more danger whilst the Centurion's people than at the rate of a pint a-day for should be employed upon the deck) each, the crew themselves having there was a square partition of thick only an allowance of a pint and a planks, made in the shape of a funnel, half. All this considered, it was which inclosed each hatchway on the wonderful that not a man of them lower deck, and reached to that di died during their long confinement, rectly over it on the upper deck. except three of the wounded, who These funnels served to communicate died the same night they were taken ; the air to the hold better than could though it must be confessed that the have been done without them, and, greatest part of them were strangely at the same time, added greatly to metamorphosed by the heat of the the security of the ship ; for they hold. For when they were first taken being seven or eight feet high, it they were sightly, robust fellows ; but would have been extremely difficult when, after above a month's im for the Spaniards to have clambered prisonment, they were discharged in up ; and, still to augment that diffi the River of Canton, they were re culty, four swivel-guns loaded with duced to mere skeletons, and their musket-bullets were planted at the air and looks corresponded much more mouth of each funnel, and a sen to the conception formed of ghosts tinel with lighted match constantly and spectres than to the figure and attended, prepared to fire into the appearance of real men. hold amongst them in case of any Thus employed in securing the disturbance. Their officers, who treasure and the prisoners, the Com amounted to seventeen or eighteen, modore, as has been said, stood for were all lodged in the first lieuten the River of Canton, and on the 30th ant's cabin, under a constant guard of of June, at six in the evening, got
TREASURE FOUND 1743.] sight of Cape Delangano, ¹ which then bore W. ten leagues distant ; and the next day he made the Bashee Islands, and the wind being so far to the northward that it was difficult to weather them, it was resolved to stand through between Grafton and Monmouth Islands, where the passage seemed to be clear ; but in getting through, the sea had a very dangerous aspect, for it rippled and foamed as if it had been full of breakers, which was still more terrible, as it was then night. But the ships got through very safe (the prize always keeping a-head), and it was found that the appearance which had alarmed them had been occasioned only by a strong tide. I must here observe, that though the Bashee Islands are usually reck oned to be no more than five, yet there are many more lying about them to the westward, which, as the channels amongst them are not at all known, makes it advisable for ships rather to pass to the northward or southward than through them ; and indeed the Commodore proposed to have gone to the northward, between them and Formosa, had it been pos sible for him to have weathered them. From hence the Centurion steering the proper course for the River of Canton, she, on the 8th of July, dis covered the Island of Supata, the westernmost of the Lema Islands. This island they made to be 139 leagues distant from Grafton Island, and to bear from it N. 82°, 37° W.; and on the 11th, having taken on board two Chinese pilots, one for the Centurion and the other for the prize, they came to an anchor off the city of Macao. By this time the particulars of the cargo of the galleon were well ascer tained, and it was found that she had on board 1,313,843 pieces of eight, and 35,682 oz. of virgin silver, be sides some cochineal and a few other commodities, which however were but of small account in comparison of the
IN THE GALLEON. 149 specie. And this being the Commo dore's last prize, it hence appears that all the treasure taken by the Centurion was not much short of £400,000, independent of the ships and merchandise which she either burnt or destroyed, and which by the most reasonable estimation could not amount to so little as £600,000 more ; so that the whole loss of the enemy by our squadron did doubtless exceed a million sterling. To which if there be added the great expense of the Court of Spain in fitting out Pizarro, and in paying the additional charges in America incurred on our account, together with the loss of their men-of-war, the total of all these articles will be a most exorbitant sum, and is the strongest conviction of the utility of this expedition, which, with all its numerous disadvantages, did yet prove so extremely prejudicial to the enemy.
CHAPTER IX.
THE Commodore, having taken pilots on board, proceeded with his prize for the River of Canton, and on the 14th of July came to an anchor short of the Bocca Tigris, which is a narrow passage forming the mouth of that river. This entrance he proposed to stand through the next day, and to run up as far as Tiger Island, which is a very safe road, secured from all winds. But whilst the Centurion and her prize were thus at anchor, a boat with an officer came off from the man darin commanding the forts at Bocca Tigris, to examine what the ships were and whence they came. Mr Anson informed the officer that his ship was a ship of war belonging to the King of Great Britain, and that the other in company with him was a prize he had taken ; that he was going into Canton River to shelter himselfagainst the hurricanes which were then coming on ; and that as soon as the monsoon 1 Cape Engano, near the north- shifted he should proceed for England. western extremity of the Island of The officer then desired an account Luconia or Luzon. of what men, guns, and ammunition
150 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD . [B. III . CH. IX. were on board, a list of all which, he means they had fallen into Mr Anson's said, was to be sent to the Government power. And on this occasion the pri of Canton. But when these articles soners were honest enough to declare were repeated to him, particularly that, as the Kings of Great Britain when he was told that there were in and Spain were at war, they had pro the Centurion 400 firelocks and be posed to themselves the taking of the tween 300 and 400 barrels of powder, Centurion, and had bore down upon he shrugged up his shoulders and her with that view, but that the event seemed to be terrified with the bare had been contrary to their hopes ; recital, saying that no ships ever came however, they acknowledged that they into Canton River armed in that man had been treated by the Commodore ner ; adding, that he durst not set much better than they believed they down the whole of this force, lest it should have treated him had he fallen should too much alarm the Regency. into their hands. This confession After he had finished his inquiries, from an enemy had great weight with and was preparing to depart, he de the Chinese, who till then, though sired to leave the two custom-house they had revered the Commodore's officers behind him ; on which the power, had yet suspected his morals, Commodore told him, that though as and had considered him rather as a a man-of-war he was prohibited from lawless freebooter than as one commis trading, and had nothing to do with sioned by the State for the revenge of customs or duties of any kind, yet for public injuries. But they now changed the satisfaction of the Chinese he their opinion, and regarded him as a would permit two of their people to more important person, to which per be left on board, who might them haps the vast treasure of his prize selves be witnesses how punctually he might not a little contribute, the ac should comply with his instructions.quisition of wealth being a matter The officer seemed amazed when Mr greatly adapted to the estimation and Anson mentioned being exempted reverence of the Chinese nation. In this examination of the Spanish from all duties, and told him that the Emperor's duty must be paid by all prisoners, though the Chinese had no ships that came into his ports. And reason in the main to doubt the ac it is supposed that on this occasion count which was given them, yet there private directions were given by him were two circumstances which appear to the Chinese pilot not to carry the ed to them so singular as to deserve a Commodore through the Bocca Tigris, more ample explanation. One ofthem which makes it necessary more parti was, the great disproportion of men between the Centurion and the gal cularly to describe that entrance.. On the 16th of July the Commodore leon ; the other was the humanity sent his second lieutenant to Canton with which the people of the galleon with a letter to the Viceroy, informing were treated after they were taken. him of the reason of the Centurion's The mandarins therefore asked the putting into that port ; and that the Spaniards how they came to be over Commodore himself soon proposed to powered by so inferior a force, and repair to Canton to pay a visit to the how it happened, since the two na Viceroy. The lieutenant was very tions were at war, that they were not civilly received, and was promised put to death when they came into the that an answer should be sent to the hands of the English. To the first of Commodore the next day. In the these inquiries the Spaniards replied, meantime Mr Anson gave leave to that though they had more hands than several of the officers of the galleon to the Centurion, yet she, being intended go to Canton, they engaging their solely for war, had a great superiority parole to return in two days. When in the size of her guns, and in many these prisoners got to Canton, the other articles, over the galleon, which Regency sent for them and examined was a vessel fitted out principally for them, inquiring particularly by what traffic. And as to thesecond question,
SPANISH PRISONERS SENT ASHORE. 151 1743.] they told the Chinese that amongst never submit to any demand of that the nations of Europe it was not cus kind ; that as he neither brought tomary to put to death those who sub any merchandise thither, nor in mitted, though they readily owned tended to carry any away, he could that the Commodore, from the natural not be reasonably deemed to be with bias of his temper, had treated both in the meaning of the Emperor's them, and their countrymen who had orders, which were doubtless calcu formerly been in his power, with very lated for trading vessels only ; adding unusual courtesy, much beyond what that no duties were ever demanded of they could have expected, or than was men-of-war by nations accustomed to required by the customs established their reception, and that his master's between nations at war with each orders expressly forbade him from other. These replies fully satisfied paying any acknowledgment for his the Chinese, and at the same time ships anchoring in any port what wrought very powerfully in the Com ever. The mandarins being thus cut modore's favour. short on the subject of the duty, they On the 20th of July, in the morn said they had another matter to men ing, three mandarins, with a great tion, which was the only remaining number of boats and a vast retinue, one they had in charge ; this was a came on board the Centurion, and de request to the Commodore, that he livered to the Commodore the Viceroy would release the prisoners he had of Canton's order for a daily supply of taken on board the galleon ; for that provisions, and for pilots to carry the the Viceroy of Canton apprehended ships up the river as far as the second the Emperor, his master, might be bar; and at the same time they de displeased if he should be informed livered him a message from the Vice that persons who were his allies, and roy in answer to the letter sent to carried on a great commerce with his Canton. The substance of the mes subjects, were under confinement in sage was, that the Viceroy desired to his dominions. Mr Anson was him be excused from receiving the Commo self extremely desirous to get rid of dore's visit during the then excessive the Spaniards, having on his first hot weather, because the assembling arrival sent about 100 of them to the mandarins and soldiers necessary Macao, and those who remained, to that ceremony would prove ex which were near 400 more, were on tremely inconvenient and fatiguing ; many accounts a great encumbrance but that in September, when the to him. However, to enhance the weather would be more temperate, he favour, he at first raised some diffi should be glad to see both the Com- culties ; but, permitting himself to modore himself and the English cap- be prevailed on, he at last told the tain of the other ship that was with mandarins, that to show his readiness him . As Mr Anson knew that an ex- to oblige the Viceroy, he would re press had been despatched to the lease the prisoners, whenever they, Court at Pekin with an account of the the Chinese, would send boats to Centurion and her prize being arrived fetch them off. This matter being in the River of Canton, he had no adjusted, the mandarins departed ; doubt but the principal motive for and on the 28th of July, two Chinese putting off this visit was, that the junks were sent from Canton to take Regency at Canton might gain time to on board the prisoners, and to carry receive the Emperor's instructions themto Macao. And the Commodore, about their behaviour on this unusual agreeable to his promise, dismissed them all, and ordered his purser to affair. When the mandarins had delivered send with them eight days' provision their message, they began to talk to for their subsistence during their the Commodore about the duties to sailing down the river. This being be paid by his ships ; but he imme 1 Thomas, who was one of the prize diately told them that he would
ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III . CH. IX. 152 despatched, the Centurion and her and stores for his use during the prize came to her moorings above the voyage. The procuring this supply second bar, where they proposed to was attended with much embarrass continue till the monsoon shifted. ment ; for there were people at Can Though the ships, in consequence ton who had undertaken to furnish of the Viceroy's permit, found no him with biscuit and whatever else difficulty in purchasing provisions he wanted ; and his linguist, ¹ towards for their daily consumption, yet it the middle of September, had assured was impossible for the Commodore to him from day to day that all was proceed to England without laying in ready, and would be sent on board a large quantity both of provisions him immediately. But a fortnight being elapsed, and nothing being crew, tells a somewhat ""ugly story of brought, the Commodore sent to Can General now set at ton to inquire more particularly into the Spanish " liberty. He was not only allowed the the reasons of this disappointment, use of his own cabin till he should be and he had soon the vexation to be recovered of his wound, but obtained informed that the whole was an illu the services of an English surgeon ; sion ; that no order had been pro Anson, at the same time, sending an cured from the Viceroy to furnish officer to demand his commission. him with his sea stores, as had been The General made the officer look in pretended ; that there was no biscuit a box in the locker of his private baked, nor any one of the articles in cabin, where he said the commission readiness which had been promised would be found, along with a sword him ; nor did it appear that the con belt studded with diamonds of great tractors had taken the least step to value ; and when the box was found comply with their agreement. This empty, the Spaniard averred that was most disagreeable news, and some of the English, rummaging in made it suspected that the furnishing his cabin, must have stolen and the Centurion for her return to Great secreted the contents. Despite the Britain might prove a more trouble non-production of his commission, some matter than had been hitherto the General received the most humane imagined ; especially, too, as the and liberal treatment, being allowed at month of September was nearly his departure to carry offseveral chests elapsed without Mr Anson's having andtrunks unsearched which he claim received any message from the Vice ed as his private property, though he roy of Canton. And here, perhaps, it might be ex had many valuable ventures concealed which should have been given up as pected that some satisfactory account fair and lawful prize. Persisting to should be given of the motives of the the last in the theft of his commission Chinese for this faithless procedure. and sword-belt, he brought down on But as I have already in a former the prize crew a heavy and undeserved Chapter2 made some kind of conjec punishment ; for Anson, on their tures about a similar event, I shall arrival in the Canton River, abso not repeat them again in this place, lutely prohibited their intercourse but shall observe that, after all, it with the natives, that the thief might may, perhaps, be impossible for a have no chance of parting with his European, ignorant of the customs booty undiscovered. Thomas, how and manners of that nation, to be ever, was afterwards told at Macao by fully apprised of the real incitements an Irish priest, that the General had to this behaviour. Indeed, thus much both his commission and his sword mayundoubtedlybe asserted, thatinar belt ; that he had made no secret of 1 Interpreter. his fraud ; and that he had offered the diamonds- whichwere made up in the 2 Chapter VII. of this Book, page belt only by way of a blind-among 136. the merchants at Macao for sale. 3 Thomas says : "We could no
CHINESE TRICKS IN TRADE. 153 1743.] tifice, falsehood, and an attachment to discharging it again by urine, and all kinds oflucre, many ofthe Chinese sold the tortured animal in this in aredifficultto be paralleled by anyother flated state. When the Commodore people ; but then the combination of first put to sea from Macao, they these talents, and the manner in practised an artifice of another kind ; which they are applied in particular for as the Chinese never object to the emergencies, are often beyond the eating of any food that dies of itself, reach of a foreigner's penetration ; so they took care, by some secret prac that though it may be falsely con- tices, that great part of his live sea Icluded that the Chinese had some in- store should die in a short time after terest in thus amusing the Commo it was put on board, hoping to make dore, yet it may not be easy to assign a second profit of the dead carcases, the individual views by which they which they expected would be thrown were influenced. overboard ; and two-thirds of the It were endless to recount all the hogs dying before the Centurion was artifices, extortions, and frauds which out of sight of land, many of the were practised on the Commodore and Chinese boats followed her only to his people by this interested race. pick up the carrion. These instances The method of buying all things in may serve as a specimen ofthe manners China being by weight, the tricks of this celebrated nation, which is made use of by the Chinese to increase often recommended to the rest of the the weight ofthe provision they sold to world as a pattern of all kinds of laud the Centurion were almost incredible. able qualities. The Commodore, towards the end One time, a large quantity of fowls and ducks being bought for the ships' use, of September, having found out (as thegreatestpart ofthem presently died . has been said) that those who had This alarmed the people on board with contracted to supply him with sea the apprehension that they had been provisions and stores had deceived killed by poison ; but on examination him, and that the Viceroy had not it appeared that it was only owing sent to him according to his promise, to their being crammed with stones he saw it would be impossible for him and gravel to increase their weight, to surmount the embarrassment he the quantity thus forced into most of was under without going himself to the ducks being found to amount to Canton and visiting the Viceroy. ten ounces in each. The hogs, too, And therefore, on the 27th of Sep which were bought ready killed of tember, he sent a message to the man the Chinese butchers, had water in darin who attended the Centurion, to jected into them for the same pur inform him that he, the Commodore, pose, so that a carcase hung up all intended on the 1st of October to pro night for the water to drain from it, ceed in his boat to Canton ; adding, has lost above a stone of its weight ; that the day after he got there he and when, to avoid this cheat, the should notify his arrival to the Vice hogs were bought alive, it was found roy, and should desire him to fix a that the Chinese gave them salt to time for his audience ; to which the increase their thirst, and having by mandarin returned no other answer this means excited them to drink than that he would acquaint the great quantities of water, they then Viceroy with the Commodore's inten took measures to prevent them from tions. In the meantime all things were prepared for this expedition, and otherwise account for this faithless the boat's crew in particular, which procedure of the Chinese, than by Mr Anson proposed to take with him, supposing they meant to starve us were clothed in a uniform dress, re. into a compliance with their accus- sembling that of the watermen on tomed demands for port charges, the Thames. They were in number with which the Commodore was de- eighteen and a coxswain ; they had scarlet jackets and blue silk waist termined never to acquiesce."
154 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III. CH. IX. coats, the whole trimmed with silver | they found would only expose them buttons, and with silver badges on to the risk of having the whole navi theirjackets and caps. As it wasappre- gation of their port destroyed, without hended, and even asserted,that thepay- any certain prospect of gaining their ment of the customary duties for the favourite point thereby. However, Centurion and her prize would be de- though there is reason to imagine that manded bythe Regency of Canton, and these were their thoughts at that time, would be insisted on previous to the yet they could not depart at once from granting a permission for victualling the evasive conduct to which they theshipfor herfuture voyage, the Com- had hitherto adhered. For when the modore, who was resolved never to es- Commodore, on the morning of the tablish so dishonourable a precedent, 1st of October, was preparing to set took all possible precautions to prevent out for Canton, his linguist came to the Chinese from facilitating the suc- him from the mandarin who attended cess of their unreasonable pretensions his ship, to tell him that a letter had by having him in their power at Can been received from the Viceroy of ton. And therefore, for the security Canton, desiring the Commodore to of his ship and the great treasure put off his going thither for two or on board her, he appointed his first three days. But, in the afternoon of lieutenant, Mr Brett, ¹ to be captain the same day, another linguist came of the Centurion under him, giving on board, who with much seeming him proper instructions for his con fright, told Mr Anson that the Vice duct ; directing him particularly, if roy had expected him up that day, he, the Commodore, should be de that the council was assembled, and tained at Canton on account of the the troops had been under arms to duties in dispute, to take out the men receive him ; and that the Viceroy from the Centurion's prize and to was highly offended at the disappoint destroy her ; and then to proceed ment, and had sent the Commodore's down the river through the Bocca linguist to prison chained, supposing Tigris, with the Centurion alone, and that the whole had been owing to the to remain without that entrance till linguist's negligence. This plausible he received further orders from Mr tale gave the Commodore great con Anson. cern, and made him apprehend that These necessary steps being taken, there was some treachery designed which were not unknown to the him, which he could not yet fathom ; Chinese, it should seem as if their and though it afterwards appeared deliberations were in some sort em that the whole was a fiction, not one barrassed thereby. It is reasonable article of it having the least founda to imagine that they were in general tion, yet (for reasons best known to very desirous of getting the duties to themselves) this falsehood was so well be paid them ; not perhaps solely in supported by the artifices of the Chin consideration of the amount of those ese merchants at Canton, that three dues, but to keep up their reputation days afterwards the Commodore re for address and subtlety, and to avoid ceived a letter signed by all the super the imputation of receding from claims cargoes of the English ships then at on which they had already so fre that place, expressing their great un quently insisted. However, as they easiness at what had happened, and now foresaw that they had no other intimating their fears that some insult method of succeeding than by vio would be offered to his boat if he lence, and that even against this the came thither before the Viceroy was Commodore was prepared, they were fully satisfied about the mistake. To at last disposed, I conceive, to let this letter Mr Anson replied that he the affair drop, rather than entangle did not believe there had been any themselves in a hostile measure which mistake, but was persuaded it was a forgery of the Chinese to prevent his 1 Afterwards Sir Percy Brett. visiting the Viceroy ; that therefore
ANSON'S ARRIVAL AT CANTON. 1743.1 155 he would certainly come up to Canton modore was by this time too well on the 13th of October, confident that acquainted with their artifices not to the Chinese would not dare to offer perceive that this was a falsehood ; and him an insult, as well knowing it had he consulted only his own judg ment he would have applied directly would be properly returned. On the 13th of October, the Commo to the Viceroy by other hands. But dore continuing firm to his resolution, the Chinese merchants had so far pre all the supercargoes of the English, possessed the supercargoes of our ships Danish, and Swedish ships came on with chimerical fears, that they were board the Centurion, to accompany extremely apprehensive of being em him to Canton, for which place he set broiled with the Government, and of out in his barge the same day, attended suffering in their interest, if those by his own boats and by those of the measures were taken which appeared trading ships, which on this occasion to Mr Anson at that time to be the came to form his retinue ; and as he most prudential ; and therefore, lest passed by Wampo, ¹ where the Euro the malice and double-dealing of the pean vessels lay, he was saluted by Chinese might have given rise to some all of them but the French ; and in sinister incident which would be after the evening hearrived safely at Canton. wards laid at his door, he resolved to continue passive as long as it should appear that he lost no time by thus suspending his own opinion. With CHAPTER X. this view he promised not to take any immediate step himself for getting WHEN the Commodore arrived at admittance to the Viceroy, provided Canton he was visited by the princi the Chinese with whom he contracted pal Chinese merchants, who affected to for provisions would let him see that appear very much pleased that he had his bread was baked, his meat salted, met with no obstruction in getting and his stores prepared with the ut thither, and who thence pretended to most despatch. But if, by the time conclude that the Viceroy was satis when all was in readiness to be shipped fied about the former mistake, the off (which it was supposed would be reality of which they still insisted in about forty days), the merchants on ; they added that as soon as the should not have procured the Vice Viceroy should be informed that Mr roy's permission, then the Commo Anson was at Canton (which they dore proposed to apply for it himself. promised should be done the next These were the terms Mr Anson morning), they were persuaded a day thought proper to offer to quiet the would be immediately appointed for uneasiness of the supercargoes ; and the visit which was the principal busi notwithstanding the apparent equity ness that had brought the Commodore of the conditions, many difficulties thither. and objections were urged, nor would The next day the merchants re the Chinese agree to them till the turned to Mr Anson, and told him Commodore had consented to pay for that the Viceroy was then so fully every article he bespoke before it was employed in preparing his despatches put in hand. However, at last the for Pekin, that there was no getting contract being passed, it was some admittance to him for some days ; but satisfaction to the Commodore to be that they had engaged one of the offi certain that his preparations were now cers of his court to give them infor going on ; and, being himself on the mation as soon as he should be at spot, he took care to hasten them as leisure, when they proposed to notify much as possible. During this interval, in which the Mr Anson's arrival, and to endeavour to fix the day of audience. The Com stores and provisions were getting ready, the merchants continually en tertained Mr Anson with accounts of 1 Whampoa.
153 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [ B. III.CH. X. their various endeavours to get a (except in this single instance) to license from the Viceroy, and their carry on the vast transactions of the frequent disappointments, which to port of Canton either by the ridi him was now a matter of amusement, culous jargon of broken English as he was fully satisfied there was not which some few of the Chinese have one word of truth in anything they learned, or by the suspected inter said. But when all was completed, pretation of the linguists of other and wanted only to be shipped, which nations. was about the 24th of November, at Two days after the sending the which time, too, the NE. monsoon above-mentioned letter, a fire broke was set in, he then resolved to apply out in the suburbs of Canton. On himself to the Viceroy to demand an the first alarm, Mr Anson went thither audience, as he was persuaded that with his officers and his boats' crew without this ceremony the procuring to assist the Chinese. When he came a permission to send his stores on there, he found that it had begun in board would meet with great difficulty. a sailor's shed, and that by the slight On the 24th of November, therefore, ness of the buildings and the awk Mr Anson sent one of his officers to wardness of the Chinese it was getting the mandarin who commanded the head apace. But he perceived that guard of the principal gate of the city by pulling down some ofthe adjacent of Canton with a letter directed to the sheds it might easily be extinguished ; Viceroy. When this letter was de and particularly observing that it was livered to the mandarin, he received running along a wooden cornice which the officer who brought it very civilly, would soon communicate it to a great and took down the contents of it in distance, he ordered his people to be Chinese, and promised that the Vice gin with tearing away that cornice. roy should be immediately acquainted This was presently attempted, and with it ; but told the officer it was not would have been soon executed, but necessary for him to wait for an an in the meantime he was told, that as swer, because a message would be sent there was no mandarin there to direct to the Commodore himself. On this what was to be done, the Chinese occasion Mr Anson had been under would make him (the Commodore) great difficulties about a proper inter answerable for whatever should be preter to send with his officer, as he pulled down by his orders. On this was well aware that none of the his people desisted, and he sent them Chinese usually employed as linguists to the English factory to assist in se could be relied on ; but he at last pre curing the Company's treasure and vailed with Mr Flint, an English | effects, as it was easy to foresee that gentleman belonging to the factory, no distance was a protection against who spoke Chinese perfectly well, to the rage of such a fire, where so little accompany his officer. This person, was done to put a stop to it ; for all who upon this occasion and many this time the Chinese contented them others was of singular service to the selves with viewing it, and now and Commodore, had been left at Canton, then holding one of their idols near when a youth, by the late Captain it, which they seemed to expect should Rigby. The leaving him there to check its progrees. However, at last learn the Chinese language was a step a mandarin came out of the city, at taken by that captain merely from his tended by four or five hundred fire own persuasion ofthe great advantages men ; these made some feeble efforts which the East India Company might to pull down the neighbouring houses, one dayreceive from an English inter but by this time the fire had greatly preter ; and though the utility of this extended itself, and was got amongst measure has greatly exceeded all that the merchants' warehouses ; and the was expected from it, yet I have not Chinese firemen, wanting both skill heard that it has been to this day im and spirit, were incapable of checking itated, but we imprudently choose its violence, so that its fury increased
157 DESTRUCTIVE FIRE IN CANTON. 1743.1 upon them, and it was feared the whole | turion, though she was thirty miles city would be destroyed. In this distant. Whilst the Commodore and his general confusion the Viceroy himself came thither, and the Commodore was people were labouring at the fire, and sent to and was entreated to afford his the terror of its becoming general still assistance, being told that he might possessed the whole city, several of take any measures he should think the most considerable Chinese mer most prudent in the present emer chants came to Mr Anson to desire gency. And now he went thither a that he would let each of them have second time, carrying with him about one of his soldiers (for such they styled forty of his people, who upon this his boat's crew from the uniformity of occasion exerted themselves in such a their dress) to guard their warehouses manner as in that country was alto and dwelling-houses, which, from the gether without example.' For they knowndishonesty of the populace, they were rather animated than deterred feared would be pillaged in the tumult. by the flames and falling buildings Mr Anson granted them this request ; amongst which they wrought ; so that and all the men that he thus furnished it was not uncommon to see the most to the Chinese behaved greatly to the forward of them tumble to the ground satisfaction of their employers, who on the roofs and amidst the ruins of afterwards highly applauded their houses which their own efforts brought great diligence and fidelity. By this down with them. By their boldness means the resolution of the English and activity the fire was soon extin at the fire, and their trustiness and guished, to the amazement of the punctuality elsewhere, was the sub Chinese ; and the building being all ject of general conversation amongst on one floor, and the materials slight, the Chinese ; and the next morning, the seamen, notwithstanding their many of the principal inhabitants daring behaviour, happily escaped waited on the Commodore to thank with no other injuries than some con | him for his assistance, frankly owning siderable bruises. The fire, though to him that they could never have ex at last thus luckily extinguished, did tinguished the fire of themselves, and great mischief during the time it con that he had saved their city from being tinued ; for it consumed an hundred totally consumed. And soon after a shops and eleven streets full of ware message came to the Commodore from houses, so that the damage amounted the Viceroy, appointing the 30th of to an immense sum ; and one of the November for his audience, which Chinese merchants, well known to the sudden resolution of the Viceroy, in a English, whose name was Succoy, was matter that had been so long agitated supposed for his own share to have in vain, was also owing to the signal lost near £200,000 sterling. It raged, services performed by Mr Anson and indeed, with unusual violence, for in his people at the fire, of which the many of the warehouses there were Viceroy himself had been in some large quantities of camphor, which measure an eye-witness. The fixing greatly added to its fury, and produced this business of the audience was, on a column of exceeding white flame, all accounts, a circumstance which Mr which shot up into the air to such a Anson was much pleased with, as he prodigious height that the flame itself was satisfied that the Chinese Go was plainly seen on board the Cen vernment would not have determined this point without having agreed 66 1 Thomas enthusiastically says, that among themselves to give up their ' they in sight of the whole city per pretensions to the duties they claimed, formed such daring, and, to the people and to grant him all he could reason who beheld them, such astonishing ably ask ; for, as they well knew the feats, that they looked upon them Commodore's sentiments, it would as salamanders, and cried out that have been a piece of imprudence not consistent with the refined cunning of they could live in fire."
158 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III . CH. X. the Chinese to have admitted him to other means left than to send, as he an audience only to have contested had done, his own officer with a letter with him. And, therefore, being him- to the gate. On the mention of this, self perfectly easy about the result of the Viceroy stopped the interpreter, his visit, he made all necessary pre- and bid him assure Mr Anson that parations against the day, and en- the first knowledge they had of his gaged Mr Flint, whom I have men- being at Canton was from that letter. tioned before, to act as interpreter in Mr Anson then proceeded, and told the conference, who in this affair, as him that the subjects of the King of in all others, acquitted himself much Great Britain trading to China, had to the Commodore's satisfaction, re- complained to him(the Commodore) of peating with great boldness, and, the vexatious impositions both of the doubtless, with exactness, all that merchants and inferior custom-house was given in charge, a part which no officers, to which they were frequently Chinese linguist would ever have per- necessitated to submit, by reason of the difficulty of getting access to the formed with any tolerable fidelity. At 10 o'clock in the morning, on mandarins, who alone could grant redress ; that it was his (Mr them the day appointed, a mandarin came to the Commodore to let him know Anson's) duty, as an officer of the that the Viceroy was ready to receive King of Great Britain, to lay before him, on which the Commodore and the Viceroy these grievances of the his retinue immediately set out. British subjects , which he hoped the And as soon as he entered the outer Viceroy would take into considera gate of the city, he found a guard of tion, and would give orders that for 200 soldiers drawn up ready to attend the future there should be no just him ; these conducted him to the great reason for complaint. Here Mr An parade before the Emperor's palace, son paused, and waited some time in where the Viceroy then resided. In expectation of an answer, but nothing this parade a body of troops, to the being said, he asked his interpreter numberof 10,000, weredrawn upunder if he was certain the Viceroy under arms, and made a very fine appear stood what he had urged ; the inter ance, being all of them new clothed preter told him he was certain it was for this ceremony ; and Mr Anson understood, but he believed no reply and his retinue having passed through would be made to it. Mr Anson then the middle of them, he was then con represented to the Viceroy the case of ducted to the great hall of audience, the ship Haslingfield, which, having where he found the Viceroy seated been dismasted on the coast of China, under a rich canopy in the Emperor's had arrived in the River of Canton chair of state, with all his Council of but a few days before. The people Mandarins attending. Here there on board this vessel had been great was a vacant seat prepared for the sufferers by the fire ; the captain in Commodore, in which he was placed particular had all his goods burned, on his arrival. He was ranked the and had lost besides, in the confusion, third in order from the Viceroy, there a chest of treasure of 4500 taels, being above him only the head of the which was supposed to be stolen by Mr Anson law and of the treasury, who in the the Chinese boatmen. Chinese Government take place of all therefore desired that the captain military officers. When the Com might have the assistance of the Go modore was seated, he addressed him vernment, as it was apprehended the self to the Viceroy by his interpreter, money could never be recovered with and began with reciting the various out the interposition of the man methods he had formerly taken to get darins ; and to this request the Vice an audience ; adding, that he im roy made answer, that in settling the puted the delays he had met with to Emperor's customs for that ship, the insincerity of those he had em some abatement should be made in ployed, and that he had therefore no consideration of her losses.
LICENSE GRANTED 1743. ] And now, the Commodore having despatched the business with which the officers of the East India Company had entrusted him, he entered on his own affairs ; acquainting the Vice roy that the proper season was now set in for returning to Europe, and that he waited only for a license to ship off his provisions and stores, which were all ready ; and that, as soon as this should be granted to him, and he should have got his neces saries on board, he intended to leave the River of Canton, and to make the best of his way for England. The Viceroy replied to this, that the license should be immediately issued, and that everything should be ordered on board the following day. And finding that Mr Anson had nothing further to insist on, the Viceroy con tinued the conversation for some time, acknowledging in very civil terms how much the Chinese were obliged to him for his signal services at the fire, and owning that he had saved the city from being destroyed ; and then, observing that the Centurion had been a good while on their coast, he closed his discourse by wishing the Commodore a good voyage to Europe. After which, the Commo dore, thanking him for his civility and assistance, took his leave. As soon as the Commodore was out of the hall of audience, he was much pressed to go into a neighbouring apartment, where there was an enter tainment provided ; but finding on inquiry that the Viceroy himself was not to be present, he declined the in vitation, and departed, attended in the same manner as at his arrival ; only at his leaving the city he was saluted by three guns, which are as many as in that country are ever fired on any ceremony. Thus the Commodore, to his great joy, at last finished this troublesome affair, which for the preceding four months had given him great disquietude. In deed, he was highly pleased with pro curing a license for the shipping of his stores and provisions ; for there by he was enabled to return to Great Britain with the first of the monsoon ,
BY THE VICEROY.
159
and to prevent all intelligence of his being expected. But this, though a very important point, was not the circumstance which gave him the greatest satisfaction ; for he was more particularly attentive to the authentic precedent established on this occasion, by which his Majesty's ships of war are for the future exempted from all demands of duty in any of the ports of China. In pursuance of the promises of the Viceroy, the provisions were begun to be sent on board the day after the audience, and four days after, the Commodore embarked at Canton for the Centurion ; and on the 7th of December, the Centurion and her prize unmoored, and stood down the river, passing through the Bocca Tigris on the 10th . And on this occasion I must observe, that the Chinese had taken care to man the two forts on each side of that passage with as many men as they could well contain, the greatest part of them armed with pikes and matchlock muskets. These garrisons affected to show themselves as much as pos sible to the ships, and were doubtless intended to induce Mr Anson to think more reverently than he had hitherto done of the Chinese military power. For this purpose they were equipped with much parade, having a great number of colours exposed to view ; and on the castle in particular there were laid considerable heaps of large stones, and a soldier of unusual size, dressed in very sightly armour, stalked about on the parapet with a battle axe in his hand endeavouring to put on as important and martial an air as possible, though some of the observers on board the Centurion shrewdly suspected, from the appearance of his armour, that instead of steel, it was composed only of a particular kind of glittering paper.¹
1 We omit Mr Walter's strictures on the merely imitative genius, the bad government, and the pusillani mity and military weakness of the Chinese ; strictures founded admit tedly on very partial information, and
160 ANSON'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. [B. III . CH . X. The Commodore, on the 12th of ed with the place, which by its extra December, anchored before the town ordinary accommodations, the healthi Whilst the ships lay ness of its air, and the picturesque of Macao. here, the merchants of Macao finished appearance of the country, all enliv their agreement for the galleon, for ened by the addition of a civilised which they had offered 6000 dollars ; colony, was not disgraced in an im this was much short of her value, aginary comparison with the valleys but the impatience of the Commo of Juan Fernandez and the lawns of dore to get to sea, to which the mer Tinian. During his stay he entered chants were no strangers, prompted about forty new men ; and having, them to insist on so unequal a bar by the 3d of April 1744, completed gain. Mr Anson had learned enough his water and provison, he on that from the English at Canton to con day weighed and put to sea. The jecture, that the war betwixt Great 19th of the same month they saw the Britain and Spain was still continued, Island of St Helena, which, however, and that probably the French might they did not touch at, but stood on engage in the assistance of Spain be their way ; and on the 10th of June, fore he could arrive in Great Britain ; being then in soundings, they spoke and therefore, knowing that no intel with an English ship from Amster ligence could get to Europe of the dam bound for Philadelphia, whence prize he had taken, and the treasure they received the first intelligence of he had on board, till the return of the a French war. The 12th they got merchantmen from Canton, he was sight of the Lizard ; and the 15th in resolved to make all possible expedi the evening, to their infinite joy, they tion in getting back, that he might came safe to an anchor at Spithead. be himself the first messenger of his But that the signal perils which haả own good fortune, and might thereby so often threatened them in the pre prevent the enemy from forming any ceding part of the enterprise might projects to intercept him. For these pursue them to the very last, Mr reasons, he to avoid all delay accepted Anson learned on his arrival that of the sum offered for the galleon ; there was a French fleet of consider and she being delivered to the mer able force cruising in the Chops of the chants the 15th of December 1743, Channel ; which, by the account of the Centurion the same day got under their position, he found the Centurion sail on her return to England. And had run through, and had been all the on the 3d of January she came to an time concealed by a fog. Thus was anchor at Prince's Island in the Straits this expedition finished, when it had of Sunda, and continued there wood lasted three years and nine months ; ing and watering till the 8th ; when after having, by its event, strongly she weighed and stood for the Cape evinced this important truth : That of Good Hope, where on the 11th of though prudence, intrepidity, and March she anchored in Table Bay. perseverance united are not exempted Here the Commodore continued till from the blows of adverse fortune, the beginning of April, highly delight- yet in a long series of transactions they usually rise superior to its power, stamped with an almost venomous and in the end rarely fail of proving successful. spirit of prejudice.
END OF ANSON'S VOYAGE.