Aunt Jo's Scrap Bag Volume 2 by Good Soil Media

MESSRS. ROBERTS BROTHERS' PUBLICATIONS.

THE DOLL-WORLD BY MRS. ROBERT Comprising

SERIES.

O'REILLY.

" Doll World," " Deborah's^ "Daisy's Companions."

Drawer," and

Three beautiful volumes, illustrated and bound in cloth, black and and put up in a neat box. Price $3.00 or, separately, $1.00 each.

gilt lettered,

;

From

tJie

Boston Daily Advertiser.

rarely meets with three so thoroughly charming and satisfactory books for children as the " Doll-World Series," by Mrs. Robert O'Reilly. Their author every one of the very peculiar and and in a high degree seems to possess She is varied characteristics which fit one to be a good writer for the young. humorous, one ought perhaps to say funny, for that is the word which the children understand best ; and Mrs. O'Reilly's wit is not the sly satire which appeals in a kind of aside to the adults present, but the bubbling merriment which is addressed directly to the ready risibles of her proper audience. She is patnetic also, with the keen, transitory pathos which belongs to childhood, a pathos never too much elaborated or too distressingly prolonged. She is abundantly dramatic. Her stories are full of action. Her incidents, though never forced or unnatural, are almost all picturesque, and they succeed one another rapidly. Nevertheless we have not yet noted Mrs. O'Reilly's chief excellence as a storywriter, nor is it easy to find a single word to express that admirable quality. come nearest it, perhaps, when we say that her tales have absolute reality ; there The illusion is in them no suggestion of being made up, no visible composition. of her pictures is so perfect that it is not illusion. This note of reality, which ought to be prevalent in any romance, is positively indispensable in a juvenile one, and it is perfectly delivered by one only of our native writers of children's books. " are as real as Daisy That one is of course Miss Alcott. Her " Little

One

—

Women

Grey and Bessie Somers the "Little Men" very nearly so. We have other who approach Miss Alcott, more or less closely: Mrs. Walker, Aunt Fanny, Susan Coolidge in the more realistic parts of the " New Year's Bargain and indeed the latter writer comes so near truth, and *s also so like the author of the " Doll World " stories in the quality of her talent, that one hopes her next ;

writers

;

essay

may be

absolutely successful in this regard.

From the New York

Tribune-

The

pretty edition of Mrs. Robert O'Reilly's works, just issued by Messrs. Roberts Brothers, will be welcome to a throng of juvenile readers as the first giftbook of the autumn. It is hard to say which of the three charming volumes comprised in this series will be most liked at the nursery hearth. fancy "Doll World " appeals most tenderly to the affections of little matrons with baby-houses and families of wood and wax to care for ; though " Deborah's Drawer," with its graceful interlinking of story with story, is sure to be the elected favorite of many. Our own preference is for " Daisy's Companions," and this for a reason less comprehensible to children than to older people ; namely, that the story closes, leaving the characters in the midst of their childish lives, and without hint of further fate or development. There are few books for children which we can recommend so thoroughly and so heartily as hers. And as one of our wise men has told us that " there is a want of principle in making amusements for children dear," Messrs. Roberts Brothers deserve thanks for giving us these volumes in a form at once so tasteful and so inexpensive.

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MESSRS. ROBERTS BROTHERS' PUBLICATIONS.

Aunt

Scrap-Bag.

Jo's

BY LOUISA M. ALCOTT. Vol.

"My

Comprising

Boys," &c.

i6mo.

Cloth,

gilt.

Price $1.00.

From

London

the

A then&um.

A collection of fugitive tales and sketches which we should

have been sorry to Miss Alcott's boys and girls are always delightful in her hands. She throws a loving glamour over them and she loves them herself so heartily that it is not possible for the reader to do otherwise. We have found the book very lose.

;

pleasant to read.

From The

the

New

York Tribune.

and increasing circle of juveniles who sit enchanted year in and out round the knees of Miss Alcott will hail with delight the publication of " Aunt Jo's Scrap-Bag." The most taking of these taking tales is, to our fancy, " My Boys " but all possess the quality which made " Little Women " so widely popular, and the book will be welcomed and read from Maine to Florida. large

;

Mrs. Hale, in Godey's Lady's Book. are in every way worthy of the author of " Little Women." be read with the sincerest pleasure by thousands of children, and in that pleasure there will not be a single forbidden ingredient. " My Boys," which, opening upon by chance, we read through at a sitting, is charming. Ladislas, the noble, sweet-tempered Pole, is the original of Laurie, ever to be remembered by all " Aunt Jo's " readers.

These

They

little stories

will

From the Dear Aunt Jo

You

Providence Press.

embalmed in the thoughts and loves of thousands of little men and little women. Your scrap-bag is rich in its stores of good things. Pray do not close and put it away quite yet. This is Louisa Alcott's Christmas tribute to the young people, and it is, like herself; good. In making selections, "Aunt Jo's Scrap-Bag" must not be forgotten. There will be a vacant place where this little volume is not. !

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are

Mailed, postpaid, by the Publishers,

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Digitized by the Internet Archive in

2011 with funding from

University of North Carolina at

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ve .0 rg/detai Is/au ntjosscrapbag02alco

Let's

see

what

" ;

and, lighting a

boldly about.

candle, the

— Page

113.

fair

Amazons looked

Aunt

Jo's Scrap-Bag. SHAWL-STRAPS.

By LOUISA M. ALCOTT, AUTHOB OF "LITTLE WOMEN," "AN OLD-FASHIONED

GIRL," "LITTLE MEN,'

"HOSPITAL SKETCHES."

BOSTON: ROBERTS BROTHERS. 1873.

Entered according to Act of Congress,

in the

year 1872, by

LOUISA M. ALCOTT, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington.

CAMBRIDGE PRESS OF JOHN WILSON AND SON.

PR·EFACE.

THERE is a sort of fate about writing books of travel which it is impossible to escape. . It is vain to declare that no inducement will· bribe one to do it, that there is nothing new to tell, and that nobody wants to read the worn-out story: sooner or later the deed is done, and not till the book is safely shelved does peace descend upon the victim of this mysterious doom. The only way in which this affliction may be lightened to a long-suffering public is to make the work as cheerful and as short as possible. With this hope the undersigned bore has abstained from giving the dimensions of any church, the population of any city, or description of famous places, as far as in her lay; but confined herself to the personal haps and mishaps, adventures and experiences, of her wanderers.

PREFACE.

explain the undue prominence given to Miss

Lavinia,

should be stated that she

intimate fiiend

an old and

of the compiler of this frivoloua

work; and therefore her views on though

less valuable,

were

all

subjects,

easier to obtain than

those of the younger and more interesting shawlstrappists.

L. November,

1872.

M. A.

CONTENTS.

I. II.

IV.

VI.

OFF BRITTANY

FRANCE SWITZERLAND ITALY LONDON .

. . . .

.. .... . . . ......

68 128 150 194

SHAWL-STRAPS.

OFF. l~N

the

Wasp.'

going, unless sails

shall

probably be a month

every night, and standing on our heads most

air

will

for Messina, in the little

cross in a gale as I did, splitting

Amanda,

of the way," said

day of February we three

from Boston

sail

fruit ship

first

folding

up her maps with

of calm decision.

Hurrah

what fun " cried Matilda, waving a !

half-finished dressing-case over her head.

But Lavinia, with one upon her bed, and lay

sepulchral groan,

there,

dumb with

fell flat

the horrors

of such a voyage. " Just the thing for you,

my poor old dear.

Think

of the balmy airs of Sicily, the oranges, the flowers.

Then

a delicious

east winds,

month

slosh,

two

at Sorrento, with

no spring cleaning. 1

shall

SEA WL- STRAPS.

be as merry

as grigs,

and get

buxom

as dairy-

maids in a month," said the sprightly Amanda. "

You

in it

promised to go, and

we must have

lost, for

Europe just will

you back out

You

a duenna.

as well as here,

and

can

Ave are

lie

round

have no doubt

do you a world of good," added Matilda.

my word, but you

" I shall keep

the Atlantic, so

suppose that

me in Do you

bury

will

make up your minds

it.

who

a poor, used-up, old invalid,

can't look at a sail-boat without a qualm, can sur-

vive thirty days of standing on nights of sail-splitting, as

head, and thirty

we go slamming and

lurch-

ing across two or three awful oceans ? " demanded Lavinia, with the energy of despair.

Before any one could reply, Amanda's

little

Mer-

cury appeared with a note. "

The

Wasp

other fruit ship "

will not take passengers,

read

and no

Amanda.

dear " sighed Matilda.

" Saved "

sails this spring,"

" cried Lavinia.

Be calm

shall go, sooner or later, if I

buy a

ship and sail her myself; " with which indomitable

remark

Amanda went

forth to grapple with

quer untoward circumstances.

and con-

OFF.

month of

and suspense

fol-

strove manfully,

Ma-

plans, vicissitudes,

Amanda

lowed, during which

tilda suffered agonies of

hope and

fear,

and Lavinia

remained a passive shuttlecock, waiting to be tossed

wherever Fate's battledore chose to send her. " Exactly

two weeks from

to-day,

from

New York

Lafayette,'

Will you be ready ?

for Brest.

demanded Amanda,

with a

sail

party of friends in the French steamer

after a protracted wrestle

with

aforesaid adverse circumstances.

But that

exactly

what we

didn't

mean

to do.

expensive and fashionable, France and not Italy,

It's

north and not south." " That's because I'm in the party.

Jonah nothing

you

will

had an

will

have a charming

you take a

Leave me behind, and

well.

trip," said Lavinia,

oyster-like objection to being torn

who

from her

bed. "

matter,

swim; and I

shall expect to

and spurred and the unwavering

are going, live or die, sink or

fit

meet you,

all

booted

for the fight, April first," said

Amanda.

most appropriate day

for three lone

women

to start off on a wild-^oose chase after health

and

;;

SEA WL-STRAPS.

4 pleasure,"

groaned Lavinia from among her

pil-

lows.

Very well, then, I leave you now, and shall expect to meet on the appointed day ? " " If I'm spared," answered the sufferer.

bring her, never fear," added the sanguine

"I'll

Mat, as she rattled the trays out of an immense trunk.

How they ever

did

no one knows

every thing was ready, and the left to

do but to

sit

;

but in a week

sisters

had nothing

and receive the presents that

showered upon them from every one was, to be sure

How kind

quarters.

all

Six fine dressing-cases

arrived,

and were hung upon the walls four smelling-

bottles,

one for each nostril

;

afghans; lunch-hjiskets needle-cases

;

bed-socks

;

rigolettes

pocket-flasks; guide-books;

bouquets in stacks

and a great cake

;

with their names on top in red and blue

letters three

inches long.

Friendly fingers sewed for them

men

;

even the gentle-

of the house, and there were eight, had a " bee "

and hemmed handkerchiefs

for

Mat, marked towels

and one noble being actually took packed the trunks

in layers

off his coat

and

of mosaic work wonder-

;

OFF.

A sapper celebrated the last evening

ful to behold.

and even the ness,

doleful Lavinia, touched

by such kind-

emerged from her slough of despond and

trified

the ball

by dancing

elec-

a jig with great spirit

and

grace.

Devoted beings were up

dawn

up and down with

early breakfast, lug trunks, fly last messages, off,

to share the

cheer heartily as the carriage drove

and then adjourn en masse to the station there

to shake hands all

round once more, and wave and

wring handkerchiefs

the train at last bore the

jocund Mat and the resigned Lavinia toward the trysting-place and

Amanda.

All along the route, more friends kept bursting into the

cars

gifts,

as they stopped at different places,

more hand-shakes and

wishes and kind prophecies,

till

kisses,

more good

at last in a chaos of

smiles, tears, smelling-bottles, luncheon, cloaks, books,

and foot-warmers, the face

travellers left the last friendly

behind and steamed away to

"How

New

York.

de-licious this is!" cried the untravelled

Matilda, as

they stepped

upon the deck of the

"Lafayette," and she sniffed the shippy fragrance that caused Lavinia to gasp and answer darkly,

—

SHAWL-STItAPS.

6 "

Wait

till

to-inorrow."

While Mat surveyed the steamer under the

who

of Devoted Being No. 10, off,

all

apj)eared to see

care

them

Lavinia arranged the state-room, stowing awayuseless

slippers,

gear and laying forth dressing-gowns,

pocket-handkerchiefs with

anguished

woman later

At eight she turned in, Amanda came aboard with a

of gay friends.

But no temptations of the

wiser, sadder

and ten minutes flock

She had crossed the ocean twice, and was a

smile.

flesh could lure the

for

it.

wary

spinster from her

den

;

for

the night was rough and cold and the steamer a

Babel of confusion. "It's

perfectly delightful!

We had supper,

there, Livy. stories,

and

all sorts

of larks.

of nice people aboard, and splendid trip.

I wish

you'd been

and songs, and funny There are quantities shall

have a perfectly

I shall be up bright and early, put

scarlet stockings,

my new

boots,

and pretty

sea suit, and go in for a jolly day," said the ardent

Matilda, as she fell

came skipping down

midnight and

asleep full of rosy visions of the joys of a " Life on the ocean wave."

OFF. " Deluded

child

" sighed Lavinia, closing

her

dizzy eyes upon the swaying garments on the wall,

and feebly wishing she had hung herself along with them.

In the gray dawn, she was awakened by sounds of woe, and peering forth beheld the festive Matilda

with one red stocking on and one

off,

her blonde

locks wildly dishevelled, her face of a pale green,

and her hands clasping lemons, cologne, and as she lay

salts,

with her brow upon the cool marble of

the toilet table. "

How

do you

it,

dear ? " asked the unfeeling

Lavinia. "

Oh what

was dying.

I feel as if I

is it ?

somebody would only stop the swing one minute. Is it sea-sickness?

good.

and

feel

Oh, yes

It's

hope

awful, but so.

worse and worse.

I wish I hadn't come

" Shipmates ahoy

Amanda

will

I've tried every thing

Hold me

are you,

my loves ? "

save

Oh,

how

and

appeared rosy, calm, and gay with her pea-

jacket on, skirts close reefed, hat well to windward,

and every thing taut and ship-shape, for she was a fine sailor

and never missed a meal.

—

SHAWL-STRAPS.

Wails greeted

Blowing a gale

weather; and style,"

was the

"Have we

faint inquiries as to the

upper world.

state of things in the

and

her,

rain, hail,

are

and snow,

— very

off the

flying

dirty-

coast in fine

cheerful reply.

split

any sails?" asked Lavinia, not

daring to open her eyes.

"Dozens

Shipping seas every

I dare say.

All the passengers

minutes.

prospect of a north-easter

tinued

the

lively

the

all

five

but me, and every

ill

way

Amanda, lurching

over,"

con-

briskly about

the passage with her hands in her pockets.

Matilda dropped her lemons and her bottles to

wring her hands, and Lavinia " Lord, what

fools

That we ever go "Breakfast, ladies?"

stewardess gruel,

and

manner

all

prancing

softly

piles of toast

mortals be,

to sea

cried

with

murmured,

the

pretty

tea-cups,

French

bowls of

balanced in some miraculous

over her arms.

" Oh, take

moaned Matilda,

away

I shall never eat again,"

clinging frantically to the marble,

as the water-pitcher

went down the middle with a

OFF.

and

hair-brush,

all

the boots and shoes had a grand

promenade round the room. " Don't speak to

think of

don't look at

;

me don't even Go and enjoy ;

and leave us to our doom," with which

yourself,

tragical

for three" days at least.

remark Lavinia drew her curtains and was

seen no more.

Great heavens, what a week that was wind,

fog

Broken

creak, pitch,

;

sleep

by day, woe

toss in

noise,

;

Rain,

smells, cold.

every variety by night,

food and drink a delusion and a snare, society an affliction, life

to be

had

a burden, death a far-off blessing not

any

Slowly, slowly the victims

price.

emerge from the lower depths of gloom, feebly faintly joke,

smile,

pick fearfully but Wistfully at once-

rejected dishes; talk about getting up, but don't do it

;

read a

little,

hand-glasses, travel

selves,

and speculate upon the good

upon the

become

look at their sallow countenances in

constitution.

daring, gay,

and

social

pervade the cabins,

effects

;

rise,

sniff the

adorn them-

odors of engine

and kitchen without qualms, play games, go to

and just

as the

voyage

over begin to enjoy

Alas for poor Lavinia

Then they suddenly

table,

it.

no such resurrection was

SHAWL- STRAPS.

10 possible

scarlet hose,

gone forth to

after

Mat had

bravely

cocked up her beaver and

festive scenes, her

shipmate remained

faithful Marie, vis-

below in chrysalis ited

Long

her.

for

donned the

state, fed

by the ever-cheerful Amanda, and enlivened by

notes and messages from fellow-sufferers in far-off cells.

Mr. and Mrs. Harry Walmars, private parties

theatricals

composed, and

little

newspaper was

and

the passage.

were held about the

were

spirit,

Jr.,

called

and had

Dried-ginger

invalid's berth,

conundrums

poems

circulated.

concocted, replete with wit

by these secluded

" Sherald," to distinguish

ladies,

and called the

from the " Herald " got

up by sundry gentlemen whose shining hours were devoted to

flirtation, cards,

and wine.

" Perfect gentlemen, I assure you,

drunk or

sober, they

night,

Mrs. Twaddle

dear

for,

;

wear yellow kids from morning

smoke the best

till

cigars,

said, sitting

and dance divinely," erect in the saloon,

shrouded in fur and velvet, with

five

diamond-rings

well displayed as she recounted the diseases she

had

enjoyed, and did the honors of a remarkable workbasket, containing eight different sorts of scissors.

OFF.

" shall be in to-morrow, so you'd better be digging up the treasures you have buried, you old magpie," said Mat, appearing to the pensive Livy on

the eleventh day. "

The sun

up the do ? '

How

— If steamers are named the

and the

sea? '" added den.

come on deck, and help us get

edition of our paper.

last

Query

Russia,'

out,

Scotia,'

will

why not call one the Nau'

Amanda, popping her head

Lavinia threw

this

Asia,' the

pillow

— Financial — This

her,

into the

but

the

undaunted joker continued,

"Also

this:

paper, gold

"Good!

no longer at Pa, but

Add

Superiority of Women to

go to

Argument

this:

Ma."

in favor of the

— The sluggard was not told

you," and

Amanda

with her forty-third bosom interred,

and

much

his uncle."

"Thank

nuts,

being a feminine

departed to twine

friend, while

Lavinia dis-

from holes and corners of her berth, money, raisins

;

books, biscuits, and literary efforts

the worse for deluges of soup and daubs of

butter.

The

cry of "

Land

on the morrow caused pas-

sengers unseen before to appear like

worms

after a

SHAWL- STRAPS.

12 shower;

heroically did up their back hair, put

all

on their Lest lusive

suits,

and walked forth with the de-

hope that no one would know how

ill

they

had been.

A French Marquis with diet

potatoes

fried

a sickly

and

little son,

sour

whose

wine perhaps

accounted for his having the temper of a young fiend, appeared,

title-loving

and were made much of by

dear,

Americans.

Spanish opera singer, stout, saffron-colored,

and imperious, likewise emerged from with a meek servant,

little

and a

husband,

obscurity,

who waited on her like who swore like

big, bald parrot

trooper.

Several nuns languished in corners of the saloon,

surveying the vanities of life with interest, and telling their beads devoutly

when they saw any one

look-

ing at them.

A mysterious lady in green velvet with many diamonds, and a shabby, speechless companion,

sailed

about the ship, regardless of the rumors told of her,

—

deserted husbands, stolen jewelry, lovers waiting on the other side, and

many equally pleasant

The gentlemen with orange

little tales.

gloves and copper-

OFF.

colored noses got themselves up in the most superb style,

though few were going to land at Brest, and

took tender farewells of such ladies as did, each professing desolation

a twelve days' "I

and

and despair

not fond of

mud,

kiss this

ground under

at the termination of

flirtation. dirt,

but I could kneel

so grateful

feet, after

down

I to feel solid

leading the

life

of a fly

for so long," said Lavinia with emotion, as the three

trudged up the wharf

which served " till

Now

let

Brest into a sort of barn

for a custom-house.

each

sit

upon her luggage and clamor

some one comes and examines

it,

else it will

get

whisked away heaven only knows where," ordered

Amanda, who was the leader

in right of her knowl-

edge of tongues.

Each perched accordingly on her one big trunk, and tried to "clamor." loss of

heed to them after

But nothing came of it save

time and temper, for no one paid the slightest ;

and

was maddening to

see trunk

trunk passed and sent off followed by

rejoicing owner.

Especially hard to bear was

sight of the green-velvet sinner,

two won the

who with

its

the

a smile or

sternest official to pass her five trunks

SHAWL-STRAPS.

without turning a key, and sailed away with a scornglance at the virtuous Three planted on their

ful

property and feebly beckoning for help. " I shall bear this

no longer.

Mat,

guard the small things, while you and boldly

among

sit I,

there and

Livy, charge

these imbeciles and drag

them

and Amanda marched away to clutch a

their duty,"

cockaded victim by the shoulder with an awe-inspiring countenance. officer,

and

Indian, smiling affably,

and

picked out a feeble, gray

Lavinia

dogged him

pointing to her luggage with a persistent mildness that nearly drove the poor

No matter

man mad.

matter where he went, or what he did, no

how

the din,

thick the

still,

lady was ever at his bly smiling.

crowd about him, or how loud

like a relentless ghost, that mild, old

side,

mutely pointing and

course he gave

in, lifted

saw much

flannel, nearly

sniffing at

one suspicious bottle, and slamming

blew

affa-

one tray,

his venerable nose off

the lid scrawled a mysterious cross,

down

bowed and

fled.

Proudly returning to Amanda, the victorious one found her friend in a high state of indignation

officer there

;

for

would touch her trunk because some

OFF.

American Express had put and there

for

little

French could the

in her hest

thick-headed

leaden stamps here

some unknown purpose.

men

understand that

Not even make the

lady

irate

was not a high

crime against the nation to undo a strap

till

some

superior officer arrived to take the responsibility of so rash a step.

had comprehended the

If they

dire threats, the

personal remarks, and unmitigated scorn of those

would

three fair travellers, the blue-coated imbeciles

have been reduced to submission. great

man came the

rout; for

them from

in time to save

ladies

Fortunately the

whether to go and leave the luggage to to haul

forth

and depart

was

;

a thousand pardons,

its fate,

armis,

stout old party came, saw, said, "It

the trunk

utter

were just trying to decide

when a

nothing;

j)ass

Madame," and peace

restored.

who

Instantly the porters,

till

then had stood

back, eying the innocent, black ark as if infernal

machine

themselves upon

was an

liable to

explode at a touch, threw

bore

and heaving

it,

it forth,

of an omnibus returned to

having waited so long.

demand

atop

vast sums for

{

SHA WL- STRAPS.

Then was Amanda

sublime, then did her comrades

magnitude of her powers,

for the first time learn the

and

Stowing

they possessed.

realize the treasure

Matilda and the smaller traps in the bus, and saying to Lavinia, " Stand by me," this dauntless maid faced one dozen blue-bloused, black-bearded, vocif-

Frenchmen, and, calmly

erous, demonstrative

otter-

ing the proper sum, refused to add one sou more.

Vainly the drivers perjured themselves in behalf of the porters, vainly

imposing vainly let

uniforms

Mat

tfce

and

cried imploringly, "

us get off before there

Amanda

table

guard looked on with

impertinent observations,

Pay any

a mob,"

thing and

the indomi-

still

held forth the honest franc, and,

no one would take

it,

laid

when

on a post, and entering

the omnibus drove calmly away. "

What

should

we do without you

sighed

Lavinia with fervent gratitude.

"Be dear," fight

cheated right and

left,

and never know

responded Amanda, preparing

for

it,

another

with the omnibus driver.

And

she had

;

for,

unwarned by the

porters, this short-sighted

the ladies to a dirty

man

little

insisted

fate of the

on carrying

hotel to dine, though

OFF. expressly

ordered to go at once to the station.

Nothing would induce them to

alight,

though the

landlord came out in person and begged them to do so ; and, after a protracted struggle

and a drive

all

over the town, they finally reached the depot.

Here another demand

for

double fare was promptly

quenched by an appeal to the chef de finding that Mademoiselle

station,

who,

was wide awake, crushed

the driver and saw justice done.

Exhausted but triumphant, the three at length found themselves rolling

slowly toward

Morlaix

through a green and blooming country, so unlike the

New

England spring they had

they rejoiced

left

behind that

like butterflies in the sunshine.

II.

BRITTANY.

A FTER

a late dinner, at which their appetites

were pretty

effectually taken

dishes of snails passed round

away by

and eaten

seeing

like nuts,

with large pins to pick out the squirming meat night's rest-

;

somewhat disturbed by the incessant

clatter of sabots in the market-place,

and a breakfast

rendered merry by being served by a gar$on

whom

Dickens would have immortalized, our travellers

went on to Caulnes-Dinan. Here began

They were

their

adventures, properly speaking.

obliged to drive fourteen miles to Dinan

in a ram-shackle carriage horses, with their tails

drawn by three

and driven by a humpback.

This elegant equipage

was likewise occupied by a sleepy old

smoked

his pipe without stopping the

Also by a

fierce little

done up in braided chignons,

large, loquacious,

incessantly, informing the

who

talked

that he

was a

beery man,

company

priest,

whole way.

BRITTANY. friend of Victor

and obliged

Hugo, a

to drink

child of nature

much

ale

head and gave him commercial If

well

it ;

because

became

aged

sixty,

went to

his

ideas.

had given him no others

but, after each draught,

child of nature

would have done

and he took many,

this

so friendly that even the free

and easy Americans were abashed.

Matilda quailed

before the languishing glances he gave her, and tied

her head up like a bundle in a thick veil. dalized Lavinia, informing

him

that

she

The

scan-

did

understand French, assumed the demeanor of a

and glared stonily into space, when she was not locating her neck trying to see

not

griffin,

dis-

the top-heavy

luggage had not tumbled off behind.

Poor Amanda was thus one

;

for,

having at

first

left

a prey to the beeiy

courteously responded to his

paternal remarks and expressed an interest in the state

of France, she could not drop the conver-

sation all at once, even

Hugo became

when

the friend of Victor

so disagreeable that

it is

to be

hoped

many such. He recited poems, he he made tender confidences, and finished

the poet has not

sung songs,

by pressing the hand of Mademoiselle to his lips. On being told that such demonstrations were not

SUA WL-STRAPS.

permitted to strangers in America, he beat his breast

and

"My

cried out,

God, so beautiful and so cold

you do not comprehend that

am but

Par-

a child.

don, and smile again I conjure you."

But Mademoiselle would not her

hands

Whereat

her

appeared

cloak

and folding

smile,

slumber.

the gray-headed infant groaned patheti-

eyes heavenward, and drank more

cally, cast his

muttering to himself and shaking his head as

ale,

if his

emotions could not be entirely suppressed.

These proceedings caused Lavinia to keep her eye

on him, being prepared bullet all

for

any outbreak from a

round to proposals to both her charges

once.

With

this

smouldering bomb-shell inside, and the

firm conviction that one

lying in the inferred that

neck

not

all

the trunks were

dust some miles behind,

may be

duenna Livy did not enjoy that break-

drive, lurching

and bumping up

hill

and down,

with nothing between them and destruction apparently but the

little

humpback, who drove

recklessly.

In this style they rattled up to the Porte de Brest, feeling that they

had reached Dinan

grace of God," as the beery

man

only by the

expressed

it,

when

BRITTANY. he bowed and vanished,

still

21 oppressed with the

gloomy discovery that American women did not appreciate him.

While Amanda made crowned with yellow

flowers, Lavinia

by a new example of woman's Close

by was a

and

inquiries at an office,

Matilda had raptures over the massive

archway

was

edified

right to labor.

woman whose

clean, rosy old

unusual occupation attracted our spinster's attention.

"Whisking off the wheels of a diligence, the

old lady greased them one by one, and put

again with the

them on

and speed of a regular black-

skill

smith, and then began to pile

many

parcels into a

char apparently waiting for them.

She was a

brisk, cheery, old soul

with the color

of a winter-apple in her face, plenty of

quick black eyes and a mouthful of fine she must have been sixty.

costume of the place gables to

woollen

it,

fire in

teeth,

her

though

She was dressed

in the

a linen cap with several sharp

gay kerchief over her shoulders, a blue

gown

short

enough to display a pair of

sturdy feet and legs in neat shoes with bunches of

ribbon on the instep, and black hose.

apron with pockets

and a bib finished her

gray off,

;

SEA WL-STRAPS.

22 making a very

sensible as well as picturesque cos-

tume.

She was

still

hard at

when

a big

boy appeared

and began to heave the trunks

into another char

but gave

which was

out

Instantly the

the

brisk

second,

old

woman

put

large.

him

aside,

hoisted in the big boxes without help, and, catching

up the with

shafts of the heavily laden cart, trotted

at a pace

away

which caused the Americans (who

prided themselves on their muscle) to stare after her in blank amazement.

When still

next seen, she was toiling up a steep

street,

ahead of the lazy boy, who slowly followed with

the lighter load.

It did not suit Lavinia's ideas of

the fitness of things to have an old

woman

trundle

three heavy trunks while she herself carried nothing

but a parasol, and she would certainly have lent a

hand

the vigorous creature had not gone at such

a pace that

was impossible

to overtake her

backed her cart up before a door in most style,

and with a bow, a

wave of ladies

smile,

the hand, informed

till

she

scientific

and a courteous

them

that "here the

would behold the excellent Madame C."

They

did behold and also receive a most cordial

BRITTANY. welcome from the good

them with

down

effusion,

for their

who not only embraced

but turned her house upside-

accommodation, merely because they

came recommended

to her hospitality

who had won

lodger

lady,

by a former

her kind old heart.

While she purred over them, the luggage was

bumped

being

upstairs, the old

woman

shouldering

trunk after trunk, and trudging up two steep

most marvellous way.

in the

flights

But best of all was her

and gratitude on receiving a larger fee than

surprise

usual, for the ladies

were much interested in

this

dear old Hercules in a cap of seven gables.

When

she had blessed

away with her

briskly

them carts,

all

round, and trotted

Madame

C. informed

the new-comers that the worthy soul was a

with

many

lently,

children,

whom

widow

she brought up excel-

supporting them by acting as porter at the

hotel.

Her

strength was wonderful, and she was

very proud of

it,

— finding

no work too hard, yet

always neat, cheery, and active literally

brow. trotting

;

asking no help, and

earning her daily bread by the sweat of her

The

ladies often

saw her afterward, always

and tugging, smiling and content,

some unseen hand kept well greased the wheels of

SHA WL-STRAPS.

24 her

own

diligence,

which carried such a heavy load

and never broke down. Miss Lavinia heing interested in Woman's Rights

and Wrongs was much impressed by the new revelations of the capabilities of her sex,

and soon ceased

to be surprised at any demonstration of feminine strength,

the

skill,

women

and independence,

everywhere

for

took the lead.

They not only kept

house, reared children, and

knit every imaginable garment the

human frame can

wear, but kept the shops and the markets, tilled the gardens, cleaned the streets, and bought and sold

leaving the

cattle,

suits

men

free to enjoy the only pur-

they seemed inclined to follow,

horses,

mending

The markets seemed women, and tomed

entirely in the

lively scenes

set.

hands of the

they presented to unaccus-

eyes, especially the pig-market, held eveiy

week, in the square before

dawn

— breaking

roads, and getting drunk.

Madame

C.'s house.

the squealing began, and was kept up

The

carts

came

in from all the

till

At sun-

neighboring

hamlets, with tubs full of infant pigs, over which the

women watched

with maternal care

safely deposited

among

till

they were

the rows of tubs that stood

BRITTANY. Anne

along the walk facing

of Bretaigne's gray old

tower, and the pleasant promenade which was once

the fosse about the city walls.

Here Madame would till

seat herself

a purchaser applied,

among

work, dive

up by cries,

its

when

she

and knit briskly

would drop her

the pink innocents, and hold one

unhappy

leg,

while she settled

undisturbed by

its

doleful

its

price with a blue-gowned,

white-capped neighbor as sharp-witted and

tongued as

If the bargain

herself.

was

shrill-

struck, they

slapped their hands together in a peculiar way, and the

new owner

bag, slung

clapped her purchase into a meal-

over her shoulder, and departed with

her squirming, squealing treasure as calmly as a Bos-

ton lady with a satchel

More mature legs,

pigs

full

of ribbons and gloves.

came to market on

and very long, feeble legs they were,

their for a

own

unsightly beast than a Breton pig was never seen out of a toy Noah's ark.

Tall, thin, high-backed,

and

sharp-nosed, these porcine victims tottered to their

doom, with dismal wailings, and not a vestige of spirit till

them

the

trials

to rebellion,

for the public.

and excitement of the

when

clay

goaded

their antics furnished fun

Miss Livy observed that the

women

;

SHAWL-STRAPS.

could manage the pigs

The

when men

failed entirely.

latter hustled, lugged, or lashed, unmercifully

and unsuccessfully

;

the former, with that fine tact

which helps them to lead nobler animals than

would

soothe, sympathize, coax,

pigs,

and gently beguile

the poor beasts, or devise ways of mitigating their be-

wilderment and woe, which did honor to the

sex,

and

triumphantly illustrated the power of moral suasion.

One amiable

lady,

who had purchased two

small

pigs and a coop full of fowls, attempted to carry

them

all

on one donkey.

lustily in the bags, the

their unquiet neighbors,

refused to

stir

a step

But the

piggies rebelled

ducks remonstrated against

and the donkey indignantly till

the unseemly uproar was

But the Bretonne was equal

calmed.

to the occa-

sion; for, after a pause of meditation, she solved the

problem by tying the bags round the necks of the pigs, so that

they could enjoy the prospect.

This

appeased them at once, and produced a general for

when

the pigs stopped squealing, the

lull

ducks

stopped quacking, the donkey ceased his bray, and the party

moved on

in dignified silence,

with the

youthful pigs, one black, one white, serenely regard-

ing

life

from their bags.

BRITTANY.

Another time, a woman leading a newly bought cow, came through the square, where the

noise

alarmed the beast so much that she became unruly, and pranced in a most dangerous manner.

hung out of the window, and ready to

fly

with brandy and bandages at a

minute's notice, for

woman would be

Miss Livy

breathless with interest,

seemed inevitable that the

tossed up

the cow was conquered.

among

the lindens before

The few men who were

lounging about, stood with their hands in

their

pockets, watching the struggle without offering to help,

till

the

cow scooped the lady up on her

ready for a

toss.

horns,

Livy shrieked, but Madame

just held on, kicking so vigorously that the

cow was

glad to set her down, when, instead of fainting, she coolly informed the men, who, seeing her danger,

had approached, that she " could arrange her cow for herself,

and did not want any help," which she

proved by tying a big blue handkerchief over the animal's eyes, producing instant docility, and then

she was led mistress,

who

away by her

flushed but triumphant

calmly settled her cap, and took a

pinch of snuff to refresh herself, after a

would have annihilated most women.

scuffle

which

SHAWL-STRAPS.

When Madame

wood was put

C.'s

the new-

in,

comers were interested in watching the job, for

was done

in a truly

odd

in several horses, with

Bretonesque manner.

carts,

two men

It arrived

drawn by four great

each to

each team ; and as the carts

were clumsy, the horses

wild,

and the men

the square presented a lively spectacle.

stupid,

At one time

there were three carts, twelve horses, and six all in

a snarl, while a dozen

distaff,

men

stood at their a let-

dressing her baby, a third twirling

tuce, another

soup, which

women

One was washing

doors and gave advice.

her

and a fourth with her

little

bowl of

she ate in public while gesticulating

frantically

that

her

sabots

clattered

on the

stones.

The

horses had a free fight, and the

and shouted

in vain,

till

denly went to the rescue.

cherub

on the

men swore

the lady with the baby sud-

door-step,

Planting the this

energetic

naked

matron

charged in among the rampant animals, and by some

magic touch untangled the teams, quieted the most

mad who was

big gray brute prancing like a

fractious,

elephant,

then returned

her

baby,

placidly eating dirt, and with a polite " Voila, mes-

BRITTANY. sieurs ! " she

the

men

whipped

Jean into his

little

while

shirt,

sat clown to smoke.

It took

two

deliberate

men

into the cellar

week

nearly a

the gnarled logs, and one brisk

woman

and piled them

to split

carried

them

The men

neatly.

stopped about once an hour to smoke, drink cider, or

The woman worked

rest.

night, only pausing at

steadily

noon

from morning

for a bit of

francs a day, the

woman

nothing was taken out of

for

bread and

The men got

the soup good Coste sent out to her.

two

till

half a franc

;

and, as

wine or tobacco, her

ten cents probably went farther than their forty.

This same capable lady used to come to market with a baby on one arm, a basket of other, leading

a pig, driving

fruit

on the

a donkey, and sur-

rounded by sheep, while her head bore a pannier of vegetables,

How

and her hands spun busily with a

she ever got on with these

brances, placid,

was

and

night went

a mystery

;

distaff.

incum-

but there she was, busy,

smiling, in the midst of the crowd,

home with

happy

souls,

and

her shopping well content.

The washer-women were among these

trifling

the happiest of

and nowhere were seen

prettier

pictures than they made, clustered round the foun-

SUA WL-STRAPS.

30 tains or tanks ing,

by the way, scrubbing,

and gossiping,

slapping, sing-

they washed or spread their

linen on the green hedges and daisied grass in the

bright spring weather.

One envied

the cheery faces

under the queer caps, the stout arms that scrubbed all

day, and were not too tired to carry

chubby Jean or

little

home some

Marie when night came, and,

most of all, the contented hearts under the white kerchiefs,

for

broad bosoms

in the

no complaint did one

hear from these hard-working, happy women.

same brave

spirit

seems to possess them

which carried them heroically to Revolution,

when hundreds

now

The

as that

their fate in the

of mothers and children

were shot at Nantes and died without a murmur. the friends the strangers

made among

them, they liked old Mere Oudon best,

— a shrivelled

But of leaf of a

all

woman, who

at ninety-two still supported

He was

her old husband of ninety-eight. helpless,

and lay

nearly

bed most of the time, smoking }

while she peeled willows at a sou a day, trudged up

and down with herbs,

cresses, or

could find to

Very proud was she of her

sell.

any

" master," his great age, his senses

and most of

all his

strength, for

little

still

thing she

quite perfect,

now and

then the

BRITTANY.

old tyrant left his bed to beat her, which token of

conjugal regard she seemed to enjoy as a relic of early days,

and a proof that he would long be spared

to her.

She kept him exquisitely neat, and her a

j)late

of food, a

little snuff,

fort for her patient old age, she

any one gave

or any small com-

took

straight to

the " master," and found a double hajminess in giving

and seeing him enjoy She had but one

it.

eye, her amiable

husband having

put out the other once on a time as she was leading

him home

tipsy from market.

The kind

soul bore

no malice, and always made

light of it when forced how the affliction befell her. " My Yvon was so gay in his young days, truly, yes, a fine man, and now most beautiful to see in hia clean bed, with the new pipe that Mademoiselle sent him. Come then and behold him, my superb master, who at ninety-eight has still this strength so won-

to tell

derful."

The

ladies never cared to see

him more than

once,

but often met the truly beautiful old wife as she toiled to

and

fro,

finding her faithful love

derful than his strength,

more won-

and feeling sure that when

SHAWL-STRAPS.

32 she will

lies at last

on her

" clean bed,"

some good angel

repay these ninety-two hard years with the

youth and beauty, happiness and

rest,

which nothing

can destroy.

Not only

did the

women manage

the

world, but had more influence than

good powers of heaven.

France that year, and even

More than once priests,

men with

the

long drought parched Brittany suffered.

women, led by

poured through the gates to go to the Croix

"Why don't to

of this

fertile

processions

du Saint Esprit and "

affairs

the

j>ray for rain.

men go

also?" Miss Livy asked.

they pray to the Virgin, and she listens best

women," was the answer. She

showers soon freshly

seemed

certainly fell,

and the

little

for

so,

gracious

gardens bloomed

where the mother's hard hands had planted

cabbages, onions, and potatoes to feed the children

through the long winter.

Nor were The good

these the only tasks the

ladies

women

did.

had a hosjntal and a neater, cheerier

place was never seen

;

few

invalids,

but

many

old

people sitting in the sunny gardens, or at work in the clean rooms.

La Garaye

in ruins

now, but the

BRITTANY. memory of its

gentle lady

still lives,

in this benevolent institution for

and

preserved

the sick, the old

and poor.

A school for girls was kept by the good nuns, and of

little

dam-

with round caps on their braided

hair,

queer

the streets at certain hours were sels,

full

long gowns of blue, white aprons and handkerchiefs,

who went bobbing

clattering

little

wooden

their

curtsies to their friends,

shoes,

and readily

answering any questions inquisitive strangers asked them. the

They learned

catechism.

read, write, sew,

Also to

sing,

ladies passed the little chapel of

for,

often

and say as

the

Our Lady, a chorus

of sweet young voices came to us making the flowery

garden behind the church of

St.

Sauveur a favorite

resting-place.

In endeavoring to account

for the

freedom of the

women here, it was decided that it was owing to Anne of Brittany, the "gentle and generous Duchesse," to whom her husband Louis XII. allowed the uncontrolled government of the duchy.

Relics

of the "fiere Bretonne" as Louis called her, are treasured everywhere, and

still

was pleasant to know

not only that she was an accomplished woman, 3

;

SHAWI^STRAPS.

writing tender letters in Latin verse to her hus-

but also a wise and just Princess to her

band,

people, " showing herself by spirit

to be the most worthy of

all

and independence

her race to wear the

ducal crown."

So three cheers

Anne, and long

life

for

to the hardy,

good Duchesse

happy women of

Brittany "While Miss Lavinia was making these observations and moralizing

upon them, the younger

ladies

were enjoying discoveries and experiences more to their tastes.

They had not been

Madame

C. informed

so charming miss

in the house half a

day before

them that "Mademoiselle, the

whom

they beheld at dinner, was

to be married very soon;

and they should have

the rapture of witnessing a wedding the most beautiful."

They welcomed Dinan

the prospect with pleasure, for

not a whirl of gayety at the best of times

and that spring the drought, rumors of war, and fears of small-pox, cast a little

town.

with

interest,

who was

shadow upon the sunny

So they surveyed Mademoiselle Pelagie and longed to behold the happy man

to be blessed with the

hand of

this little,

BRITTANY. yellow-faced

with red eyes, dirty hands, and a

girl,

wig they never could make up was not.

frizzled crop, so like a

minds that

their

Madame,

who

the

mamma,

a buxom, comely widow,

breakfasted in black moire, with a diadem of

glossy braids on her sleek head, and

ments rattling and glistening informed them, with voluble

many

jet orna-

about her person,

affability,

of the whole

affair.

brother,

marriage. behold.

yes

I consent.

girl, it is

angel,

may be

man whose parents desire that he infant. He beholds her. He

father, I

He is presented to me we converse.

She him with the angelic modesty of a young ;

but speaks not.

I approve, the parents meet,

arranged, and Jules

They have not met for the marriage,

her in

Mori Dieu !

lacerated to lose

Great heavens, I adore her

consent.'

regards

I conduct her to a ball, that she

should espouse :

President, had arranged the

to establish her.

heart

seen by the young

says

was time

though

;

Pelagie was twenty, and beautiful, as you

and he

presence.

betrothed to

since; but next

Pelagie.

week he comes

will be permitted to address

Ah, yes

your customs are not

SHAWL-STRAPS.

36 as ours,

and

to us

Pardon that I say

On lord,

seem of a deplorable freedom. it."

how

inquiring

Pelagie regarded her future

they found that she thought very

little

about

him ; but was absorbed

in her trousseau, which she

proudly displayed.

those accustomed to see and

hear of American

outfits,

with their lavish profusion

and extravagant elegance, poor est stores

were not at

all

little

Pelagie's

imposing.

mod-

Half a dozen

pretty dresses from Paris ; several amazing hats, rosebuds, lace, and blue ribbon ; a

all

good deal of em-

broidery ; and a few prophetic caps,

— completed the

outfit.

One

treasure, however, she

playing,

—a

gift

from Jules,

in a black walnut case, on

was never

tired of dis-

— a camels'-hair shawl, which was carved the

A set of pearls were also from the

Clomadoc arms.

bridegroom ; but the shawl was her pride,

women

for

married

alone could wear such, and she seemed to

think this right of more importance than any the

wedding-ring could confer upon her.

To many

the

young

of the

both of

ladies,

romantic

comely American

girls,

whom had known

experiences which befall

the idea of marrying a

man

BRITTANY.

whom

they had only seen twice seemed horrible;

and to have but one week of courtship, and that

Mamma's

presence,

was simply an

insult

which they would not bear to think

But Pelagie seemed

and a wrong

of.

quite content,

and brooded

over her finery like a true Frenchwoman, showing

very

little

interest in her Jules,

the time to

and only anxious

for

come when she could wear her shawl

and be addressed

While waiting

madame.

for

the

grand event, the

girls

amused themselves with Gaston, the brother of the bride-elect.

He was

a languid, good-looking youth

of three and twenty,

who assumed

attitudinized for their benefit. in

fits

coffee,

less

of Byronic gloom,

blase

airs

and

Sometimes he was lost

when he frowned over

his

sighed gustily, and clutched his brow, regard-

of the curls, usually in ambrosial order.

damsels, instead of being impressed

The

this display

of inward agony, only laughed at him, and soon rallied

him out of

his heroics.

another plan, and become

green

tulips, ancient

all

Then he would

try

devotion, presenting

coins, early fruit, or sketches

of his own, so very small that the design was quite obscure.

If these delicate attentions failed to touch §

SHAWL-STRAPS.

the stony hearts of the blonde Americans, he would ah- his entire

day

wardrobe, appearing before them one

Breton costume of white

in full

ered in gay

silks,

with streaming ribbons and flowers.

was Gaston

cloth,

embroid-

buckled shoes, and hat adorned

in this attire

;

Quite Arcadian

and very

effective

on the

croquet ground, where sundry English families dis-

Another

ported themselves on certain afternoons.

time he would get himself up like a Parisian dandy

bound

for a ride in the Bois

mounting with much

de Boulogne; and,

difficulty a

rampant horse, he

would caracole about the Place

St. Louis, to the

great delight of the natives.

But

this

proved a

cruel strangers

eclipsed his glories like

an Amazon.

escort she

dom

did

trot of

failure

;

for

donned hat and

one of the habit,

The only time Gaston played

more than amble a mile six or eight miles

or two,

for

sel-

and a hard

reduced our Adonis

to such a state of exhaustion that he

fell

into his

mother's arms on dismounting, and was borne to

but

by galloping about the country

was nearly the death of him,

some

fair

and entirely

away

bed with much lamentation. After that he contented himself with coming to

BRITTANY. show himself party

in full dross

and, as that

;

whenever he went to a

was nearly every other evening,

they soon got accustomed to hearing a tap at their door,

and beholding the comely youth in

all

the

bravery of glossy broadcloth, a lavish shirt-bosom, miraculous curls

tie,

primrose gloves, varnished shoes, and

and mustache anointed and perfumed

most exquisite

He would bow and

style.

in the

say " Bon

soir" then stand to be admired, with the artless satisfaction of a child

complacently,

wave

;

after

which he would smile

his crush hat,

and depart with

a nourish. Dear, dandified, vain Gaston.

was his

go to

wish

Paris,

His great desire

and when the war came he had

but found sterner work to do than to

;

dress and dance and languish at the feet of ladies.

I hope

made

man

of him, and fancy

did

;

for

the French fight well and suffer bravely for the

country they love in their melodramatic fashion.

the day approached for the advent of the

bridegroom, great excitement prevailed in the quiet household.

Madame

C. and her handmaid, dear

old Marie, cackled and bustled like a pair of impor-

tant hens.

Madame

F.,

the widow, lived at the

SHAWL-STRAPS.

40 milliner's,

and had several dress

so to speak,

hearsals for her

own

guard over

sister,

his

satisfaction. lest

re-

Gaston mounted

some enamoured man

should rend her from them ere her Jules could secure slept, till

the prize.

And

Pelagie placidly ate and

kept her hair in crimping-pins from morning

night,

wore out her old

clothes,

and wiled away

the time, munching bonbons and displaying her shawl.

"Mercy on

lamb being

us! I should feel like a

fattened for the sacrifice if I were in her place,"

one of the freeborn American

cried

with an

air

citizenesses,

of unmitigated scorn for French ways

of conducting this interesting ceremony. " I should feel like a galley-slave," said the other.

"For

she can't go anywhere without Gaston or

Mamma

at her elbow.

Only yesterday she went

into a shop alone, while Gaston waited at the door.

And when

she told

home

as a great exploit all

the ladies shrieked with horror at the idea, and

Mamma

wringing her hands

said,

Mon Dieu

but they will think thou art a married woman, for it

inconceivable that any girl should do so bold

a thing.' not to

And

Pelagie wept, and implored them

tell Jules, lest

he should discard her."

BRITTANY. Here the Americans

all

absurdity of the whole

groaned over the pathetic

affair,

and wondered with

unrighteous glee what the decorous ladies below

would say

some of

fearing that

them from the town

to eject

home.

their pranks at

President might feel

But,

his

duty

as dangerous persons,

they shrouded their past sins in the most discreet

and assumed

silence,

their

primmest demeanor in

public. "

has come

Look

vinia, as a carriage

ing sound, as of the

quick, girls " cried La-

stopped at the door, and a rush-

many

agitated skirts,

was heard

Three heads peeped from the window

hall.

of the blue parlor, and three pairs of curious eyes

were rewarded by a sight of the bridegroom, as he alighted.

Such a

little

Such a dignified

man!

Such a

strut

uniform as he wore!

And

fierce

mustache!

such an imposing

For Jules Gustave Adolphe

Marie Clomadoc was a colonel in some regiment Boulogne.

Out he skipped

stationed

marched

and, peeping over the banisters, they

him

;

salute

Madame

;

saw

F. with a stately kiss on the

hand, then escort her up to her salon, bowing

loftily

SHAWL-STRAPS.

42 and twisting

his

gave him the

tawny mustache with an

effect of

air that

being six feet in height and

broad in proportion.

How the

he greeted his fiancee they knew not, but

murmur

of voices came from the

room

in steady

flow for hours, and Gaston flew in and out with an ah-

of immense importance.

At to

little

dinner the strangers were proudly presented le Colonel,

and received

affable

bows from the

man, who flattered himself that he could talk

English, and insisted

speaking

unknown

tongue, evidently wondering at their stupidity in

not understanding their

escorted

own

language.

Madame down,

sat

Pelagie, but talked only to her silent

;

between her and

while the girl sat

and ate her dinner with an appetite which no

emotion could diminish.

was very funny

to see

the small warrior do his wooing of the daughter

through the mother

;

and the buxom widow played

her part so well that an unenlightened observer

would have

said

she was

smiled, she sighed, she

the

bride-elect.

discoursed, she

She

coquetted,

and now and then plucked out her handkerchief and

wept

at the thought of losing the angel,

who was

;

BRITTANY.

gnawing bones and wiping up the gravy on

placidly

her

j)late

with

bits of bread.

Jules responded with

talked, jested, quoted

spirit,

poetry, paid compliments right and

and then passed the

left,

and

now

a glass, or offered a

salt, filled

napkin to his fiancee with a French shrug and a tender glance. After dinner

Madame

of his poems ; for

man was

F. begged

one

With much

persua-

and many modest apologies, Jules at length

consented, took his place

hand

recite

beloved of the muse, and twanged the lyre

as well as wielded the sword.

sion

him to

appeared this all-accomplished

upon the

into his bosom, turned

rug, thrust one

his eyes, and, in a

tremendous voice, declaimed a pensive poem of

some twenty

The

stanzas, called, "

poet's friends

Adieu to

listened

with

my past."

rapt counte-

nances and frequent bursts of emotion or applause

but the Americans suffered agonies, for the whole thing was so

with great explosions

dropped

absurdly melodramatic that

difficulty

they kept

laughter.

When

was

themselves from the

little

man

his voice to a hoarse whisper, in bidding

adieu to the lost loves of his youth, tender-hearted

;

shawl-strAps.

old C. sobbed in her napkin herself from hysterics,

;

while Livy only saved

by drinking a

glass of water,

and Pelagie ate sugar, with her round eyes fixed on her lover's

face,

without the slightest expression

whatever.

When the

poet mourned his blighted hopes, and

asked wildly of die,

all

the elements if he should live or

Gaston cast reproachful glances at the alien

charmer,

who had nipped

his passion in the

and when Jules gave a sudden

start,

bud

slapped his

brow, and declared that he would live for his country, old

Marie choked in her

F. clapped her

fat hands,

coffee,

while

Madame

and cried: "It

sub-

lime!"

The poem

closed

there,

and the providential

appearance of their donkeys gave the ladies an excuse for retiring to their room, where they laughed till

they could laugh no more.

Each meal was

good

glimpse they had of the for mirth.

little

a play, and every pair gave fresh food

Every thing was so formal and

utterly unlike

polite, so

the free-and-easy customs of their

native land, that they were kept in alternate states

of indignation

and amusement the whole time.

BRITTANY.

Jules never

was alone with his Pelagie for an such a breach of etiquette would have

instant;

shocked the entire town.

In the walks and drives

which the family took together, at the

Colonel's side;

Madame was

always

while Gaston escorted his

looking as if he was fast reaching a state of mind when he would give her away without a pang. Many guests came and went, much kissing and bowsister,

ing, prancing stairs.

signed,

and

rustling,

went

on,

up and down

Stately old gentlemen called, papers were fortunes discussed, and gifts displayed.

Pelagie went

much

to mass;

also to the barber's,

and the bath.

Agitated milliners flew in and out. great load of trunks arrived from Nantes, where

Madame

formerly lived;

and the day before the wedding a whole carriage full of Clomaclocs appeared, and Babel seemed to have come again.

A great

supper was given that evening, and the

three were banished to their

own rooms; where, however, they fared sumptuously, for Madame C. and good old Marie ate with them, having no place left

them but the

kitchen.

Madame

was much

hurt that she had not been asked to the wedding. It eeemed the least Madame F. could do after taking

S.HAWL-STRAPS.

of the house, and turning

possession

owner out of every room but the

was a gentlewoman

;

fiercely,

posed that the neglected ones should

make

somewhere.

rightful

old soul,

She said noth-

very much.

but Marie fumed and scolded

the wedding-day, and

its

Madame

meek

and, though a

;

this rudeness hurt her

ing

attic.

all

and pro-

go away on

a fete for themselves

So they decided to drive to Dinare,

enjoy the fine views of the sea and St. Malo, dine,

and return

wedding

at dusk, leaving the house free for the

festivities.

The day was

fine,

and the

ladies

were graciously

invited to behold the bride before she left for church.

She looked

much

a fashion-plate as

possible for a living girl to look

;

was

and they dutifully

kissed her on both cheeks, paid their compliments,

and in

retired,

thanking their stars that they were not

her place.

Mamma and black

was gorgeous to behold, lace.

in royal purple

Gaston was so glossy and- berufHed

and begemmed, that they gazed with awe upon the

French Adonis. for

But the bridegroom was a

gods and men.

sword, so

many

full

sight

regimentals with a big

orders that there was hardly

room

BRITTANY. for

them on

his little breast,

and a cocked

with

hat,

a forest of feathers, in which he extinguished him-

How

intervals.

self at

tawny mustache

his tiny boots shone, his

pranced tall,

His honored papa and

portly people, beside

a child.

Clomadoc take

and his

bristled with importance,

golden epaulettes glittered as he

mamma

whom the

and

shrugged

were both

manikin looked

Livy quite longed to see Madame little

Jules on her knee, and

him with bonbons when he got impatient

amuse at

the

delay of the carriage.

The

three peeped out of windows, and over the

banisters,

and got

fine

glimpses of the splendors

below.

Flocks of elegant ladies went sailing up the

narrow

stairs.

Gentlemen with

dandies

orders,

wonderful to behold, and a few children (to play with the bridegroom, as Livy wickedly the hall

and salon.

of his or her voice. despair,

said),

Every one talked

adorned

at the top

Shrieks of rapture, groans of

greeted a fine toilette or a torn

Peals of laughter from the gentlemen, and cries

from the

peaceful halls. divine."

infants,

glove. shrill

echoed through the once

Francoise said, "It was truly

SEA WL-STRAPS.

eleven, every one trooped into the carriages

How

again.

But

many

they ever got so

people into one carriage

full-dressed

a mystery to this day.

in they piled, regardless of trains, corpulency,

or height

;

and coach

lumbered away to

after coach

the church.

The

be got very near

bride's carriage could not

the door.

So she tripped out to

uncle's arm, while the devoted

Mamma

it,

leaning on her

Gaston bore her

sailed after in a purple cloud;

two young damsels,

in arsenic green,

were packed

away they went, leaving the bridegroom

Then came

mamma were

safely in

;

in,

to follow.

Stout papa and

the catastrophe!

feet high, shut himself

train.

and when

a friend of Jules, some six

a jack-knife; and,

with a farewell wave of the cocked hat, the small

bridegroom skipped in after them. cracked his whip, intending to arched gateway in fine

was

style.

But

old, the big horses clumsy,

paved.

The

The coachman dash

under

alas

the harness

the

and the road half

traces gave way, the beasts reared,

the big coach lurched, and dismal wails arose. burst the fierce

little

friend followed

hero of the day, and the

instalments.

Out tall

BRITTANY.

Great was the excitement as the natives gathered about the carriage with

offers of help,

murmurs of

sympathy, and unseemly mirth on the part of the boys.

Jules did the swearing;

heard such big oaths as irate little

man.

fell

It really

explode with wrath.

and never were

from the

seemed

of this

lips

as if

he would

clashed the impressive

cocked hat upon the stones, laid his hand upon his sword, tore his hair, and clutched his mustache in

paroxysms of despair. His bride was gone, waiting in agitated suspense

for him.

other coach could be had, as the

resources of the

wit's

end how to mend

Maire and

priest

The

town had been exhausted.

harness was in a desperate state, the it,

men

and time flying

were waiting, the whole

the wedding was being ruined " ten thousand devils "

at their

seemed

fast.

effect

this delay,

to possess the

and

awk-

ward coachman. During the

flurry,

Papa Clomadoc appeared

slumber tranquilly in the recesses of the carriage.

Mamma

endeavored to soothe her boy with

" Tranquillize

nothing."

yourself,

cries of

cherished son.

Come, then, and reassure papa." 4

" In-

SHAWL-STRAPS.

hale the odor of

vinaigrette.

your lacerated nerves,

It will

compose

angel."

But the angel wouldn't come, and continued

dance and swear, and slap his hat about until the

damages were repaired, when

he flung himself,

exhausted, into the carriage, and was borne

away

to his bride.

"A little

poor Pelagie." "What a " Spinsters for ever ! "

lively prospect for

fiend he

With

these remarks, the ladies ordered their

equipage,

an infant omnibus,

Dinan, where Scotch,

drive

eighteen or

retired

army

much

oflicers,

about with their

little

own

vogue in

English

families

One Colonel Newcome,

twenty.

grave-looking man, used to come to church in a bus

of this

sort,

a patriarch. ing-school,,

with nine daughters and four sons, like

The till

paternal pride, as

Madame C,

strangers thought

"my

in a large

was a boardflock,

with

treasures."

Leghorn bonnet, trembling

with yellow bows, led the indifference as

he presented the entire

way with an

air of lofty

to what became of her house that

day.

Marie bore a big basket,

salad,

and wines; she

also

was

full

in a

of cold fowls,

new, spring hat

;

BRITTANY. of purple, which china aster.

and the

made her

rosy old face look like a

Lavinia reposed upon the other seat;

infants insisted

aloft,

on sharing the

driver's seat,

that they might enjoy the prospect, which

boy to beam and blush

freak caused Flabeau's his youthful

They had

countenance was a deep

till

scarlet.

a pleasant day; for good old

Madame

soon recovered her temper, and beguiled the time

with lively tales of her mother's

trials

during the

Revolution.

Marie concocted spiced drinks, salad that was a thing to dream

of,

not to

and produced such

tell,

edible treasures that her big basket

seemed bottom-

less.

The

frisky damsels explored ruins, ran races

the hard beach, sniffed the salt breezes, and astonished the natives pices," as

by swarming up and down

" preci-

they called the rocks.

That was a

fatal

day

never knew his name)

;

for Flabeau's

for, as if the

boy (they

wedding had

flown to his head, he lost his youthful heart to one of the lively damsels

who invaded

his perch.

Such

tender glances as his China-blue eyes cast upon her such grins of joy as he gave

when

she spoke to him

SHAWL-STRAPS.

such feats of agility as he performed, leaping down to gather flowers, or hurling himself over thorny

hedges, to point out a dolmen or a menhir (they

never could remember which was which). alas

for Flabeau's

that day

boy

Deej)ly was he

Alas,

wounded

by the unconscious charmer, who would

soon have thought of inspiring love in the bosom of the broken-nosed saint by the wayside as in the heart that beat under the blue blouse. I regret to say that "the infants," as

Madame

C. always called Miss Livy's charges, behaved themselves with

wished.

less

decorum than could have been

But the proud consciousness

that they

never could be disposed of as Pelagie had been had such an exhilarating frisked like the

One drove

upon them that they

effect

lambs in the

field.

the bus in a retired spot and aston-

ished the stout horses,

by the way

bowled them along the

fine,

hard road.

which she

The other

sang college songs, to the intense delight of the old ladies,

who admired

the " chants Ameriques so gay,"

and to the horror of they meant.

remain outside

;

their duenna,

who knew what

shower came up, and they would so the

boy put up a leathern hood,

BRITTANY. and they

sat inside in such a

youth

silent

merry mood that the

suddenly caught

the infection, and

burst forth into a Breton melody, which he con-

tinued to drone

they got home.

till

The house was

a blaze of light

when they

arrived,

and Francoise, the maid, came flying out to report sundry breakages and mishaps. How the salad had precipitated itself downstairs, dish

and

How

all.

Monsieur Gaston was so gay, so inconceivably gay, that he could hardly stand, and insisted on kissing her clandestinely.

That Mademoiselle Pelagie had

wept much because her F. had made a fresh

Would the dear

veil-

was torn

garden, and see

and Madame

ladies survey the party,

Regard them from the

table ?

;

toilette, ravishing to

if it

little

behold. still,

window

in the

not truly a spectacle the

most superb!

They did regard them, and saw the head

of the

dessert

;

mendous barricade

eating

table,

bride at the

steadily through

the

the bridegroom reciting poems with treeffect;

Gaston almost invisible behind a

of bottles

;

and Madame

F.,

violet

velvet, diamonds, plumes,

and

buxom than

ladies all talked at once,

ever.

The

lace,

more sleek and

SHAWL-STRAPS.

and the gentlemen drank healths every fire minutes.

very French and festive scene

room was therein.

One

fat

Clomadoc leaned board, and

heavy head upon the

his

assure

you,

yes,"

side-

Madame

the plump shoulders of

for the

lady sat in the fireplace, Papa

were half out of the front window. genteel.

was;

and twenty mortals were stowed

small,

But

was

Francoise

said.

How

long they kept

up the weary

trio did

not

wait to see; but retired to their beds, and slum-

bered peacefully, waking only when Gaston was borne up to his room, chanting the "Marseillaise" at the top of his voice.

Next day M. and Madame Clomadoc, calls,

Jr.,

made

and Pelagie had the joy of wearing her shawl.

For three days she astonished the natives by promenading with her lord in a fresh

the fourth they

went away

young people

all

make a round of settled

down

each day.

of Pelagie; but, as dear old

before the

visits,

to hear

Madame

several times after they

and

Boulogne.

The Americans never thought them

toilette

piled into a big carriage,

left,

the

any more

C. wrote to little

story

BRITTANY.

may be

finished here,

actually

come

Many were

though the sequel did not

a year later.

till

the sage predictions of the three, as

to the success of this marriage.

Amanda

approving

of that style of thing, Matilda objecting fiercely to the entire

affair,

and Lavinia firmly believing

good old doctrine of love,

in the

your only firm basis for

so solemn a bargain.

Wagers were

that the fiery

laid

would shoot some one

little

jealous

fit,

colonel

or that

Pelagie would elope, or both charcoal themselves to .

death, as the best

way

out of the predicament.

none of them guessed how

tragically

would

But really

end.

Late in the following spring came a letter from

Madame C,

telling

them

that Jules had gone to the

war, and been shot in his

was with her mother

first

battle

still

smaller Jules,

his father, and,

to be

ble him.

little

that Pelagie

again, comforting herself for

her loss with a

;

who never saw

hoped, did not resem-

Pelagie's brief

romance ended;

and one would fancy that the experiences of that year would

make her

quite

content

remain

under mamma's wing, with no lord and master but

SHAWL-STRAPS.

56 the

whom

son,

little

she was a very tender

mother. Pleasant days those were in quaint old Dinan;

magic

for spring's soft

glorified earth

and

sky,

and

a delicious sense of rest and freedom gave a charm to that quiet

Legends of romance and chivalry

life.

hung about the

ruins of castle

and chateau,

as green

and golden as the ivy and bright wall-flowers that tapestried

the

crumbling walls, and waved

banners from the turret tops.

Lovely walks into

woods, starred with pale primroses, and fragrant

down green lanes, leading to over wide meadows full of pink-

with wild hyacinths quaint cottages, or

tipped daisies,

same

all

;

and dear familiar buttercups, the

the world over.

Sometimes they took gay donkey-drives to a solemn dolmen

visit

gloomy pine-wood, with

mistletoe hanging from the trees, and the ghosts

of ancient Druids haunting the spot.

The

caval-

cade on such occasions was an imposing spectacle.

Matilda being fond of horses likewise affected donkeys (or thought she did,

and usually went

first

till

she tried to drive one),

in a small vehicle like a chair

on wheels, drawn by an animal who looked about the

BRITTANY. size

of a mouse,

when

the stately

Mat

in full array,

yellow parasol, long whip, camp-stool, and sketchbook, sat bolt upright on her perch, driving in the

most approved manner.

The

small beast,

break into a

trot,

after

much whipping, would

and go pattering over the hard,

white road, with his long ears wagging, and his tiny hoofs raising a great dust for the benefit of the other

turnout just behind.

In a double chair sat Lavinia, bundled up as usual,

and the amiable Amanda, both flushed with constant pokings

venerable

and thrashings of

ass, so like

as to his body,

their

steed.

an old whity-brown hair trunk

and Nick Bottom's mask

as to his

head, that he was a constant source of mirth to the ladies.

Mild and venerable

as he looked,

however,

he was a most incorrigible beast, and

immortal

the ancient

souls,

and four arms,

to get

took two

donkey along.

Vain all the appeals to his conscience, pity, or pride nothing but a sharp poke among his

shower of blows on

his fuzzy old back,

" yanks " of the reins produced

any

ribs,

a steady

and frequent

effect.

was

impossible to turn out for any thing, and the' ladies

SHAWL-STRAPS.

resigned themselves to the ignominy of sitting

still,

middle of the road, and letting other car-

in the

round them.

riages drive over or

rare occasions the beast

ditch as a vehicle

drew near

would

bolt into the

but usually he paused

;

abruptly, put his head down,

and apparently went

to sleep.

Matilda got on better, because

little

Bernard

named her mouse, was so very small, that she could take him up, and turn him round bodily, when other means failed, or pull him Guesclin,

as she

half into the chair if danger threatened in front.

He was

a sprightly

little fellow,

lost all the ardor of youth, or

and had not yet

developed the fiendish

obstinacy of his kind; so he frequently ran

now and then

races;

little

pranced, and was not quite

dead to the emotion of gratitude

in return for bits

of bread. Truly, yes inches,

most

and

erect,

;

Mat with her

Jthe fair

little

five feet

Bernard, whose longest

did not reach

were a sweet pair of

ear,

much above her

friends,

seven

when waist,

and caused her mates

great amusement. "I

must have some one to play with,

for I can't

BRITTANY.

my mind

,taprove

all the

time as 'Mandy does, or

cuddle and doze like Livy.

with young donkeys of

word I've

little

Bernie

known with

Thus Matilda,

I've

all sorts,

much

had experience

and I give you

better fun than

some

shorter ears and fewer legs."

regardless of the jeers of her friends,

when they proposed having the small beast into the salon to beguile the tedium of a rainy day.

the

and gay

summer came

parties

would

on, picnics

pile into

were introduced,

and on to Flabeau's

small omnibus, and drive off to Hunandaye, Coet-

quen,

Belliere,

Guingamp, or some other unpro-

nounceable but most charming spot, for a day of sunshine and merry-making.

The

hospitable English

came out strong on these

occasions, with " 'ampers of 'am-sandwiches, bottled

porter and so on, don't you

Even

know ? "

all in fine style.

the stout doctor donned his knickerbockers

and gray hose, unfurled

his

Japanese umbrella, and,

with a pretty niece on either arm, disported himself like a boy.

But pleasantest of through the

little

all

were

town and

its

the

daily

strolls

environs, getting

glimpses of Breton manners and customs.

SHAWL-STRAPS.

The houses were

composed of one room,

usually

where, near the open

fire,

stands the bedstead or

and fixed against the

lit clos,

wall,

of old oak, shut in

carved sliding panels, often bearing an inscription or

The

some sacred symbol.

mattresses and feather-

beds are so piled up, that there creep

in.

Before

it is

hardly room to

the big chest containing the

family wardrobe, answering the double purpose of a seat

and a step by which to ascend the

lofty bed.

Cupboards on each side often have wide

where the children

complete the furniture

;

shelves,

and a long table

Settles

sleep.

the latter often has

little

wells hollowed out in the top to hold the soup instead

of plates.

Over the

two indispensable

table,

suspended by pulleys, are

articles

in a

Breton house,

large round basket to cover the bread, and a

frame to hold the spoons.

Festoons of sausages,

hams, candles, onions, horse-shoes, harness, and all

hang from the

earth.

ceiling.

—a

wooden

The

One narrow window

floor is of lets

the

tools,

beaten light.

There are no out-houses, and pigs and poultry mingle freely with the family.

The gardens ties

are well kept,

of fruit and vegetables.

and produce quanti-

The

chief food of the

;

BRITTANY. poorer class

bread or porridge of buckwheat, with

cabbage soup, made by pouring hot water over cab-

bage leaves and adding a

They

bit of butter.

are a home-loving people,

and pine

brave soldiers and good

like the

They

Swiss, if forced to leave their native land.

are

" Their vices," as

sailors.

a Breton writer says, " are avarice, contempt for

women, and drunkenness;

home and

their virtues, love

loyalty to each other, and hospitality."

Their motto

En tout chemin loyaute." They are very superstitious, and some customs are curious. At New Year pieces

is,

country, resignation to the will of God,

of their of bread

and butter are thrown into the fountains, and from the

way

which they swim the future

If the buttered side turns under, if

two pieces adhere together,

and long

it is

life

foretold.

an assurance of

and prosperity. throw pins into the fountain of Saloun to

manner of

their

married. is little

forebodes death

a sign of sickness

if a piece floats properly, it is

Girls tell

If the pin goes

hope

;

sinking,

down

when they

but, if the point goes

sign of being married that year.

will

head-foremost, there first, it is

a sure

SHAWL-STRAPS.

Their veneration for healing-springs and, though at times forbidden still

Pounded

felt.

neck,

worn

in a

believed to be a cure for fever;

" If

ceaseless

very great^

believed in that last

tingling

that

bell

bag on the

and a cer

rung over the head, a cure

tain holy bell

ache.

snails,

by the Church,

for head-

remedy what a

would keep up

America," said Lavinia, when these facts were mentioned to her.

In some towns they have, in the cemetery, a bone-

house or reliquary. time, to dig

It is the custom, after a certain

up the bones of the dead, and preserve

the skulls in

little

square boxes like bird-houses,

with a heart-shaped opening, to within.

The names and

show the

relic

dates of the deceased are

inscribed outside.

Saint

Ives or

Yves

images of him are in

He was

doors.

all

and

many

one of the remarkable characters

of the thirteenth century.

and devoted

the favorite saint,

churches and over

studied law in Paris,

his talents to defending the poor; hence,

he was called " the poor man's advocate " and so :

great

the confidence placed in his justice, that,

e\ en now,

when

a debtor falsely denies his debt, a

BRITTANY.

peasant will pay twenty sous for a mass to St. Ives, sure that the Saint will cause the faithless creditor to die within the year or

pay

up.

His truthfulness was such that he was called "St. Yves de verite." He was the special patron of lawyers,

but

does

not seem to be their

model.

The their

monks taught the people to work, and " The Cross and the plough, labor

early

motto was

and prayer."

They introduced

principal fruit of Brittany.

drank

;

Much

and in old times they got

France in exchange

for

still

afford

their

Great

food for the

fields

the

made and wine from

wax and honey,

were famous bee-keepers.

wheat

now

apples,

cider

as they

of buck-

"yellow-breeched

many cottage gardens a row of queerly shaped hives stand in sunny nooks.

philosophers," and in

These monks were the model farmers of those and their abbeys were fine farms. One had twenty piggeries, of three hundred pigs each, in days,

its

The monks

forests.

and bred

fish in their

Many were so on.

also-

reared sheep and horses,

ponds.

also brewers, weavers, carpenters,

and

Evidently they lived up to their motto and

SHAWL-STRAPS.

64 labored quite as

much

were saved by works

The statue

Place

little

faith.

Guesclin, with

all

around, was a favorite resting-

was held and booths of

one end.

when

Especially

place of the ladies.

all sorts

the weekly

were raised at

Here Amanda bought a remarkable jack-

which would cut nothing but her

knife,

stumpy

of the famous knight in the middle and

chestnut trees

fair

they prayed, and doubtless

as well as

fingers

Matilda speculated in curious kinds of cake sort being

made

;

one

into gigantic jumbles so light that

they did excellently for grace-hoops; another sort being used by these vandals as catch-alls, so deep

and tough were they. rious fabrics,

and got

Lavinia examined the vabits

of linen as samples, also

queer earthen pots and pans impossible to carry

away.

The church little

of St. Sauveur, a

place with

side of his wife,

now

dim and ancient

Guesclin's heart buried

by the

The

castle,

was another haunt.

a prison, contained the arm-chair in which

Duchess Anne

sat,

and the dungeons where were

crammed two thousand English the last century.

prisoners of

The view from

war

the platform of

BRITTANY.

the keep was magnificent, extending to

and the distant

Mont Dol

sea.

The sunny promenade on half round the town,

the fosse, that goes

was very charming, with the

old gray walls on one side, and, on the other, the

green valley with

luxuriant gardens, and leafy

its

winding up to the ruined chdteau, or the

lanes,

undulating

hills

with picturesque windmills whirling

on the heights.

the other side of the town, from the high

gardens of the church, one looked down into the deeper valley of the Ranee, with the airy viaduct striding from hill to

town

nestling at

Soft

scene

;

its

hill,

and the old part of the

hase.

and summery,

fertile

and

and the busy peasants

to the charm. nurses, each

reposeful,

at their

was the

work added

Pretty English children with Breton in the costume of her native town,

played under the lindens

all

flowers and alive with bees.

abloom with odorous

Workmen came

these green places to eat the black bread and drink

the thin wine that was

all

their dinner.

strolled here after their baths at the little

the rose-garden below.

Invalids

house in

Pretty girls walked there 5

SHAWL-STRAPS.

66 the

twilight

breeches

and

gowns went

long-haired

"with

lovers

Nuns

knee

round

hats.

and

from hospital and the insane

fro

asylum or charity school

;

gray,

their

and the beautiful old

priest

sometimes went feebly by smiling paternally on flock,

who

rose

and uncovered reverently

his

passed.

Flowers were everywhere, rich, at the

windows of the

—

market were gay with plumy roses of every shade,

in the gardens of the

poor.

The

lilacs,

stalls in

the

splendid tulips,

and hyacinths heavy with odor.

All along the borders of the river waved the blos-

soming grass

every green bank about the mills at

;

Lehon was yellow with heads of

little

Even

poor.

dandelions, and the sunny

children welcoming the flower of the

the neglected churchyard of the ruined

abbey, where the tombs of the stately Beaumanoirs still

stand,

was bright with

cheerful

daisies

and

blue-eyed forget-me-nots.

The willows fragrant tassels, sat

all

the valley were covered with

and the old women and children

day on door-stones and by the wayside

stripping the long, white

Flax

fields

wands

were blooming

for basket-making.

the meadows, and

BRITTANY.

acres of buckwheat, with its rosy stems

and snowy

blossoms, whitened the uplands with a fair prophecy

of bread for

all.

So, garlanded about with early flowers

and painted

in spring's softest, freshest colors, Brittany remains for ever a pleasant picture in the

memory

of those

who have been welcomed to its hospitable homes, and found friends among its brave and loyal people.

—

III.

FRANCE. "

/^^IRLS, ^~*^

into the floor, in

bility

listen

have had a

scintillation in the night:

and approve

said

Amanda, coming

room where her comrades the

upon the

sat

stages of despair, at the impossi-

first

of getting the accumulated rubbish of three

months' travel into a couple of immense trunks.

"Blessed

you always bring a ray of

girl!

just at the darkest

light

moment," returned Lavinia, with

a sigh of relief, while Matilda looked over a barricade

of sketch-books bristling with paint-brushes, and

added anxiously, "If you could suggest miracle,

you

" Behold

how

work

amendment

the

Amanda, perching

herself

have decided to travel

propose,"

began "

on one of the

arks.

slowly and

comfortably,

through France to Switzerland, stopping where like,

this

will be a public benefactor."

and staying

as long as

"We

please at any place

FRANCE.

fancy, being as free as

air,

and having

world before us where to choose, as "

The

route you have laid out

a charming one,

and I don't see how you can improve nia,

the

all

were."

it,"

said Lavi-

who, though she was supposed to be the matron,

guide, and protector of the younger girls, was in reality

sake,

nothing but a dummy, used for Mrs. Grundy's

and

let

the girls do just as they pleased, only

claiming the right to groan and she

liked

when

claimed her for

neuralgia,

its

her

moan

much

demon,

familiar

own.

"One improvement

remains to be made.

these trunks a burden, a vexation of

spirit,

demanded Amanda, tapping one with her

Are

a curse

carefully

cherished finger-tips. "

They

are

they are

groaned the others,

regarding the monsters with abhorrence. "

Then

let us

get rid of them, and set out with no

luggage but a few necessaries in a shawl-strap."

"We

will!

will!" returned the chorus.

we burn up our rubbish, or give it away ? " asked Lavinia, who liked energetic measures, and " Shall

was ready

to cast her

garments to the four winds of

heaven, to save herself from the agonies of packing.

SHAWL-STRAPS.

never give up

shall

nor

pictures,

boots!" cried Matilda, gathering her idols to her breast in a promiscuous heap.

"Be calm and " Pack will

away

all

listen,"

returned the scintillator.

we Then

but the merest necessaries, and

send the trunk by express to Lyons.

with our travelling-bags and bundles,

can follow

at our leisure."

'"Tis well!

they

all

'tis

well!" replied the chorus, and

returned to their packing, which was per-

formed in the most characteristic manner.

Amanda

never seemed to have any clothes, yet

was always well and appropriately dressed;

did not take her long to lay a few garments, a book

two, a

box of Roman-coin

lockets,

scarabae

brooches, and cinque-cento rings, likewise a swell hat

and it

habit, into her vast trunk

in the

;

then lock and label

most business-like and thorough manner.

Matilda found much

difficulty in reconciling paint-

pots and silk gowns, blue, hats and statuary, French

boots and Yankee notions.

But order was

at length

produced from chaos, and the young lady refreshed her weary soul by painting large red M's the trunk to

mark

for her

own.

all

over

FRANCE.

Miss Lavinia packed and repacked four or times, forgetting needfuls, which, of course,

always at the very bottom.

the

the depths her patience gave out,

fifth

five

were

plunge into

and with a vow to

be a slave no longer to her treacherous memory, she

tumbled every thing the lid

till it

in,

performed a solemn jig on

locked, then pasted large, but illegible

placards in every available spot, and rested from her labors with every nerve in a throbbing condition.

Shawl-straps of the largest, strongest sort were

next procured, and the three bundles

much

made up with

discussion and merriment.

Into Amanda's went a volume of Shakspeare of great size and weight, but as indispensable as a tooth-brush to

its

owner;

toilet-articles tied

up in a

handkerchief, a few necessary garments, and paper, at

—

for

Amanda was

unexpected

bosom ings

moments,

friends, in

much

inspired with poetic also

had

five

fire

hundred

answering whose epistolary gush-

stationery

was consumed.

pistol,

massive crust of bread, and an oval box containing all

the dainty appliances for the culture, preserva-

tion,

and ornamentation of the

her store.

finger-nails,

made up

SHA WL-S TRAPS.

72 Matilda's

bundle

of sketch-books, a

consisted

of haberdashery, a

trifle

was

that

curling-stick

always tumbling out at inopportune moments, yards of blue ribbon, and a camp-stool strapped outside in

company with a Japanese umbrella, a

many languages

stout doctor, destined to be cursed in

by the unhappy beings stomachs

into

whose backs,

was poked before

its

from the

gift

eyes,

and

wanderings ended.

Lavinia confined herself to a choice collection of

and

bottles

several

French novels,

scarlet

letters

and

army it,

gray cloud, and

pill-boxes, fur boots, a

— the solace of wakeful

blanket, with

S. in

nights.

big black

enveloped her travelling medicine-chest,

lent a cheerful air to the

sombre

black attire and hoarse voice

spinster, Avhose

made

the sobriquet

of Raven most appropriate.

With

these imposing bundles in one hand,

little

pouches slung over the shoulder, plain travellingsuits,

subdued

tenances,

hats, 'and resolute

our three errant damsels set forth one

bright June day, to

own sweet will. men were civil, wore

its

but benign coun-

wander through France

Not all

a fear assailed

women

sunniest aspect.

friendly,

Not

them

at their ;

for all

and the world

a doubt perplexed

FRANCE. them

for the gifted

;

understood

cessfully with

into the

Amanda

sorts of

all

73 spoke

many

tongues,

money, could grapple suc-

Murray and Bradshaw, and never got

wrong corporation when she traced a route

with unerring accuracy through the mysteries of an

Indicator.

lord and master, in the shape of

brother, spouse, or courier, ordered their outgoings

but liberty the most entire was

and incomings;

and they enjoyed

theirs,

well too;

for,

though

heartily.

off the

Wisely and

grand route, they

behaved themselves in public as decorously as eyes of

all

the

prim Boston were upon them, and proved

their triumphant success, that the unprotected

might go where they

liked, if

selves with the courtesy

they conducted them-

and discretion of gentle-

women.

How

pleasant were the early

from Dinan to the flowery stroll

St.

little

sail

down

the

Ranee

Malo, the comfortable breakfast in court of Hotel Franklin, and the

afterward .about the quaint old town, looking

at the churches,

buying

fruit,

and stoutly

resisting

the temptations of antique jewelry displayed in the

dingy shops! ever,

for

Lavinia never forgave herself, how-

not securing a remarkable watch, and

SHA WL-STRAPS.

Amanda collar

months

sighed

afterward for a Breton

and cross of charming antiquity and

ugliness.

Matilda boldly planted her camp-stool, unfurled her umbrella, and, undaunted by the crowd of roundcapped, blue-bloused, wooden-shoed children about her,

began to draw the church.

" I intend to study architecture, and to sketch all

the cathedrals

ardent art-student,

see," said the

struggling manfully with the unruly umbrella, the

unsavory odors from the gutter, and the garrulous

crowd leaning over her shoulder, hat-brim, and examining

all

jjeering

under her

her belongings with a

confiding freedom rather embarrassing.

"Do you know what little

impertinent things these

scamps are saying to you?" asked Amanda,

pausing in a lecture on surface drainage which she

was delivering to

cram a

berries,

fat

to Lavinia,

wine

who was

vainly struggling

cabbage leaf of straw-

bottle, a

and some remarkable cakes into the lunch-

basket.

"No:

I don't;

and that

knowing any language but replied Matilda,

art, as

who

the advantage of not

considered

time wasted, and

own," complacently all

made her

study but that small store of

FRANCE.

French answer admirably, by talking very loud and fast,

" Old, out,

and saying,

with

much

gesticulation,

cui" on

all

occasions

and bows and smiles of

great suavity and sweetness. " Clear out this rabble, or

and wait

town round us

come back

for the bus.

and 1

soon,

to the hotel

have the whole

shall

stand

can't

it,"

Amanda, who had no romantic admiration

said

for the

Great Unwashed.

"You

think I can't do it?

Voilaf" and, rising

suddenly to an unexpected height, Matilda waved the umbrella like a baton, cried " Allez ! " in a stern

and the children

voice,

fled like chaff before the

wind. "

You

with

see

how

little

your

learning

needed, so don't vex

old verbs

Matilda closed her book with an

any more air

me and

of calm satis-

faction.

Come home and

fairly melted,"

rest.

warm

It is so

here I

prayed Lavinia, who had been long-

ing for summer, and of course, was not suited Avhen she got "

it.

Now, do remember one

gregarious.

never

thing

don't let us be

know who we may

pick up

;

SHAWL-STRAPS.

talk to people

sad bores sometimes.

;

and stray acquaintances are

Granny

such a cross old

dear she won't say a word to any one it

;

but you, Mat, can't be trusted

one

who

the

peace of this party

she can help

we meet any

So be on your guard, or

talks English.

said

lost,"

Amanda,

impressively. "

wilderness;

this

meet any but natives

are not likely to

Mandy,

excite yourself,

so don't

dear," replied Matilda, who, being of a social turn

and an

attractive presence,

friends, to the great

was continually making

annoyance of her more prudent

comrades.

In the flowery court-yard

sat the

group that one

meets everywhere on the Continent, wilds of Brittany. tired,

— even

and mother

Young America

in the stout,

personified, loud, impor-

and inquisitive; the daughter, pretty,

and over-dressed and

father

and rather subdued by the newness of things

the son, tant,

The

titles,

;

all

on the lookout

for

affected,

adventures

fellow-countrymen to impress, and

for-

eigners eager to get the better of them.

Seeing the peril from' self in

afar,

Amanda

buried her-

Murray, to read up the tomb of Chateau-

FRANCE.

and any other useful

briand, the tides, population, bit of history ; for

Amanda was

" Gathered honey

From every

all

a thrifty soul,

and

the day,

opening flower."

Lavinia, finding the court damp, shrouded herself in the

and

gray cloud, put her feet on the red bundle,

fortified herself

But Matilda,

with a Turner's

guileless

girl,

pill.

roamed

and

fro,

patted the horses at the gate, picked flowers that no

French hand would have dared to touch, and studied the effect of light and shade on the red head of the gargon,

blonde

who gazed

sentimentally at "the

Mees,' " as he artlessly watered the wine for

dinner.

The Americans had that,

their eye

upon

her,

and

felt

though the others might be forbidding English

women,

this

one could be made to

talk.

So they

pounced upon their prey, to the dismay of her mates, and proceeded

"to

ask

fifty

questions to the minute.

Poor Mat, glad to hear the sound of her native tongue, fell into the snare, and grew more confiding every moment.

"She

telling the

family history," whispered

Lavinia, in a tone of despair.

SHA WL-STRAPS.

"Now

they are asking where

we came

from,"

added Amanda, casting doAVn her book in agony. "

Wink

at her," sighed Lavinia.

"Call to her," groaned Amanda, as they heard their

treasured

betrayed, and the

secret

enemy

clamoring for further information about this charming

trip.

"Matilda! bring

me my

shawl,"

commanded

the

Dowager. "

Come and

see if

you don't think we had better

go direct to Tours," said the wary Amanda, hoping to put the

The

enemy

victim came, and vials of wrath were poured

upon her head started,

the "

off the track.

in one unceasing flow

and the

ladies

enemy did not

till

the omnibus

were appeased by finding that

follow.

Promise that you won't talk to any but natives,

or I decline to lead this expedition," said

Amanda

firmly.

"I promise," returned Mat, with penitent meekness.

Now we've

got her " croaked the

Raven

;

" for

she will have to learn French or hold her tongue." "

The language of

the eye remains to me, and x

FRANCE.

a proficient in that, ma'am," said Mat, roused

deny her the

these efforts to

"You

welcome to

are

right of free speech. it,

dear,"

and Amanda

departed to buy tickets and despatch the trunks,

with secret misgivings that they would never be found again.

Now we

are fairly started, with

no more weigh-

ing of luggage, fussing over checks, or packing of traps to

dom

afflict us.

What

a heavenly sense of free-

gives one, to have nothing but an indepen-

dent shawl-strap," said Matilda, themselves in a vacant

car,

they

settled

and stowed away the

bundles.

What it

a jolly

was the

it is

St.

air,

day that was to be sure

Whether

the good coffee, or the liberty, certain

that three merrier maids never travelled from

Malo to Le Mans on a summer's day.

Raven

forgot her woes, and

became

Even the

so exhilarated

that she smashed her bromide bottle out of the win-

dow, declaring

herself

cured,

and

tried

sing

" Hail Columbia," in a voice like an asthmatic bagpipe.

Mat amused up the

herself and her comrades

different articles that

by picking

kept tumbling

down on

SHAWL-STRAPS.

80 •

her head from her badly built bundle

while

;

scintillated to such an extent that the others

Amanda laughed

themselves into hysterics, and lay exhausted, prone

upon the

They revelled,

seats.

ate,

drank, sung, gossiped, slept, read, and

till

another passenger got

priety clothed

them

as with

when

in,

pro-

a garment, and the

mirthful damsels became three studious statues.

The new-comer was young that they

He seemed

called

little

so rosy

priest;

him the

rather dismayed, at

and

Reverend Boy."

first

;

but, finding

the ladies silent and demure, he took heart and read diligently in a dingy little prayer-book, stealing shy

glances

now and

then from under his broad-brimmed

hat at Amanda's white hands, or Matilda's yellow locks, as if these vanities of the flesh lost their

charms

and leaned in ture;

for him.

his corner,

for the ugly hat

and by he

making

was

had not

ofi",

quite

fell asleej),

quite a pretty pichis boyish face as

placid as a child's, his buckled shoes, and neat black-

stockinged legs stretched comfortably out, his plump

hands folded over the dingy book, and the bands lay peacefully on

He was

quite at their

little

his breast.

mercy now ; so the three

FRANCE.

women

looked as

the poor dear

much

boy was

as they liked,

satisfied

wondering

with the

he had

life

chosen, and getting tenderly pitiful over the losses

he might learn to regret when

was too

His

late.

dreams seemed to be pleasant ones, however, once he laughed hear

;

a blithe, boyish laugh,

and when he woke, he rubbed

and stared about, smiling

got out

all

like a

good

his blue

for

eyes

newly roused baby.

too soon, was joined

several

much

other clerical youths, and disappeared with

touching of big beavers, and wafting of cassocks. Innocent, reverend

little

became of him, and hope

—

then,

summer

his

awakening

boy

happy

as it

after dinner, a sunset

Le Mans;

and,

walk took them to the grand

old cathedral, where they

wandered

Pure Gothic of the twelfth century,

dim

now

seemed that

day.

Six o'clock saw our damsels at

glass,

wonder what

his sleep is as quiet

till

moonrise.

rich in stained

carved screens, tombs of kings and queens,

little

chapels,

where devout

souls

told their

beads before shadowy pictures of saints and martyrs, while over

all

the wonderful arches seemed to soar,

one above the other, light and graceful as the natu6

SUA WL-STRAPS.

ral

curves of drooping branches, or the rise and

fall

of some great fountain.

sure.

in a

not see any thing finer than

shall

It's

I'm

a perfect revelation to me," said Matilda,

calm rapture' at the beauty

"This

this,

my prayers

about her.

all

a pious-feeling church, and I could say

here with

all

soul ; for

seems as

the religion of centuries had got built into

it,"

added

Lavinia, thinking of the ugly imitations at home. "

You

will

both turn Catholic before

through," prophesied

Amanda,

tomb of Berengaria, Coeur de

The market,

square before the

many

soldiers

get

Lion's wife.

hotel

was gay with a

lounging about, and flocks

of people eating ices before the cafes.

enjoyed

retiring to study -the

The

ladies

from the balcony, and then slumbered

peacefully in a great

room with

three alcoves,

much

muslin drapery, and a bowl and pitcher like a goodsized cup

and saucer.

Another look ing,

at the cathedral in the early

morn-

and then away to Tours, which place they found

a big, clean,

handsome

city, all

astir for the

Fete-

Dieu. "

"We

will stay over

Sunday and

see

it,"

was the

FRANCE.

general vote as the trio headed for the great church, and, catching sight of

by the fountain

it,

ojrposite,

they subsided into a seat

and

sat looking silently at

the magnificent pile.

How

strangely impressive and eloquent

The evening red touched mellow

light,

Lower down,

was

gray towers with a

its

sunshine on a venerable head.

flights of rooks circled

round the fretted

windows, and grotesque gargoyles,

niches, quaint

while the great steps below, and. soldiers,

swarmed with

priests

gay strangers and black-robed nuns,

children and beggars.

For an hour our pilgrims

sat

and studied the

wonderful fagade, or walked round the outside,

examining the rich carvings that covered every inch of the walls.

Twilight

fell

before they

had thought

of entering, and feeling that they had seen enough for

that night,

they went thoughtfully

dream of solemn shadows and cathedral haunted

Next day was

them sj^ent

home

saintly faces, for the

still.

viewing Charlemagne's

Tower, and seeing the grand procession in honor of the day.

The

tapestries

and banners, strewn with

streets

were hung with garlands, gay fresh boughs,

SBA WL-STRAPS.

and lined with people

women

procession passed, rose-leaves before

in festival array.

it,

the

out and scattered

ran

and one young mother

set

her

blooming baby on a heap of greenery in the middle of the street, leaving

under

the rosy

there, that the

canopy might pass over

its

little

sat playing

with

own

its ;

blue shoes, while the golden

and looking down with sudden benignity

bright head,

the chanting priests stepping

in their tired faces as the holy

ever in

Holy Ghost

A pretty sight,

creature smiling in the sunshine as

pageant went by carefully,

it.

its

great

shadow

fell

on the

making baby blessed and saved

for

pious mother's eyes.

band played

finely, scarlet

soldiers fol-

lowed, then the banners of patron saints were borne

children.

of pretty

Saint

little girls

Agnes and her lamb carrying

tall,

the air with their sweetness.

white

led a troop lilies, filling

Mary, Our Mother,

was followed by many orphans with black ribbons crossed over the

young hearts that had

lost so

much.

Saint Martin led the charity boys in purple suits of just the color of the mantle he

the beggar on the banner.

was dividing with

pleasant

emblem of

the charitable cloak that covers so many.

FRANCE.

Priests in full splendor paced solemnly along with

swinging,

censers

candles flickering,

sweet-voiced

boys singing, and hundreds kneeling as they

Most impressive

figures, unless

of something cSmically

human

of the heavenly pageant.

j)assed.

one caught a glimpse to disturb the effect

Lavinia had an eye for

the ludicrous, and though she dropped a tear over the orphans, and with difficulty resisted a strong desire to catch

and

kiss the pretty baby, she scan-

dalized her neighbors

minute.

by laughing outright the next

A particularly portly, pious-looking

who was marching with superb

dignity,

priest,

and chant-

ing like a devout bumble-bee, suddenly mislaid his

temper, and injured the effect by boxing a charity boy's ears with his gilded missal,

and then capped

the climax by taking a pinch of snuff with a sono-

rous satisfaction that convulsed the heretic.

The afternoon was spent to

and

way.

fro,

in the church,

each alone to study and enjoy in her

Matilda

lost

prayers, looked

own

her head entirely, and had silent

raptures over the old pictures.

wandering

Amanda

said her

up her dates, and imparted her

facts

a proper ,and decorous manner, while Lavinia

went up and down, finding

for herself little pictures

SHA WL-STRAPS.

not painted by hands, and reading histories more interesting to her than those of saints and martyrs.

In one dim chapel, with a single candle lighting

up the divine sorrow of the Mater Dolorosa, knelt a

woman

deep black, weeping and praying

all

alone.

In another flowery nook dedicated to the Infant Jesus, a peasant girl

baby asleep

was

telling her

beads over the

in her lap; her sunburnt face refined

and beautified by the tenderness of mother-love. a third chapel a pale, wasted, old in a chair, while his rosy old wife St. Gratien, the

all,

was a

dark,

propped

And most

striking

handsome young man, well-dressed

and elegant, who was waiting fessional

sat

prayed heartily to

patron saint of the church, for the

recovery of her John Anderson. of

man

at the

door of a con-

with some great trouble in his

muttered and crossed himself, while

face, as

his

haggard

eyes were fixed on the benignant figure of St. Francis,

as if asking himself if

also, to

were possible

put away the pleasant sins and

world, and lead a

life

like that

for

follies

him

of the

which embalms the

memory of that good man. " If we don't go away to-morrow we never shall, for this church will bewitch us, and make it impos-

;

FRANCE.

Amanda, when

sible to leave," said

length they

tore themselves away.

" I give u\) trying to sketch cathedrals.

It can't

be done, and seems impious to try," said Matilda, quite exhausted

by something deeper than

pleas-

ure.

"I think the 'Reminiscences of

make

a capital story.

and could

Rook' would

are long-lived birds,

tell tales

of the past that would entirely

modern

rubbish," said Lavinia, taking a

eclipse our last

They

look at the solemn towers, and the shadowy

birds that

The

had haunted them

for ages.

ladies agreed to be off early in the morning,

that they might reach

Amboise

time for the

Amanda was

eleven o'clock breakfast. bill,

and to make certain inquiries

Mat

to fly out

and do a

trifle

pay the

the

of shopping

office ;

while

Lavinia packed up the bundles and mounted guard

over them.

met

They

separated, but in half an hour

again, not in their

room according

ment, but before the cathedral, which

all

to agree-

had decided

not to revisit on any account.

Matilda was there

came

stealing

first,

and

as each of the others

round the corner, she greeted them

;

SHAWL-STRAPS.

88 with a laugh, prise

was

joined after the

all

sur-

first

over.

" I told

and then

which

you

would "bewitch

Amanda

us," said

took a farewell look, which lasted so

all

long ,they had to rush hack to the hotel in moat

unseemly "

Now

haste.

away on the fourth

Lavinia, as they rolled their

and churches new," sang

to fresh chateaux

summer

journey.

stage of

very short stage

new

was,

and soon they were

in an entirely

Amhoise was

old-time village on the banks

little,

of the Loire, looking as if

hundred

had been asleep

The Lion d'Or was

years.

scene, for

for a

a quaint place,

so like the inns described in French novels, that one

kept expecting to see some of Dumas' heroes come

dashing up,

all

love-letter for

the

hill

Queer

boots, plumes,

and

some court beauty

pistols,

with a

in the castle

beyond. galleries

and

to the rooms above.

stairs led

The

up outside the house

salle-ci-manger

was

across

a court, and every dish came from a kitchen round

the corner.

The

(/argon a beaming, ubiquitous crea-

ture, trotted perpetually, diving clown steps, darting

into dark corners, or skipping up ladders, producing

;

FRANCE.

The bread

needfuls from most unexpected places.

came from the

soup from the

stable,

cellar,

coffee

out of a meal-chest, and napkins from the housetop,

Adolphe went up among the weather-

apparently, for

cocks to get them. "

one knows

us,

no one can speak a word of

English, and if we happen to die here

How romantic and nice it is

be known. Mat,

good

as if they

women

spirits, for

in disguise,

romance

should be in a sweet quandary

pened to our sheet-anchor here. any danger, save Amanda,

But

us.

never

exclaimed

and the young

it.

" I'm not so sure that the

the people treated the ladies

were duchesses

liked

it will

she

first,

all it looks.

any thing hap-

Just remember, in

then she will save

lost, all is lost,"

replied Lavinia,

darkly, for she always took tragical views of

when her bones

the hill they

was found

as snow,

went

for the old

many Angora

after breakfast

lady's

woes

cats, of great size

with

tails like

;

and balm

in the sight of

and beauty.

White

plumes, and mild, yellow

At every window sat down

eyes,

were these charmers.

one

on every door-step sprawled a bunch of

;

life

ached.

SHAWL-STRAPS.

and frequently the eye of the tabby-loving spinster

was gladdened by the touching

mamma in " If I

dears,

the

spectacle of a blonde

bosom of her young

could only carry

no matter what

I'd

it,

family.

have one of those

cost " cried Lavinia,

captivated by a live cat than by nots that Catherine de Medicis

all

Hugue-

the dead

hung over the

castle

walls on a certain memorable occasion. " Well,

you

come on and improve your

can't, so

mind with some good, leading them forward.

You must remember

Charles VII. was born here in 1470.

Brittany married him for her

he bumped

his

Amanda,

useful history," said

first

that

That Anne of

husband, and that

head against a low door

in the

garden

here above, as he was running through to ^lay bowls

with his Anne, and

killed him."

"Which? the bump or who liked to have things "Don't be

frivolous,

the bowls?" asked Mat, clearly stated.

child.

Here Margaret of

Anjou and her son were reconciled

Warwick.

Abd-el Kader and his family were kept prisoners here,

and

it-;

in the

garden

tomb with a

crescent

likewise a 'pleached walk,' and a winding

drive inside the great tower,

up which lords and

FRANCE.

•

ladies used to ride straight into the hall," continued

the sage

Amanda, who yearned

to enlighten the

darkness of her careless friends.

A brisk old woman

mouldy

showing them

rickety stairs, grubby till

did the honors of the castle, chapels,

cells,

sepulchral

halls,

and pitch-dark passages,

even the romantic Matilda was glad to see the

light of day,

and repose in the pleasant gardens

while removing the cobwebs from her countenance

and the dust from her raiment.

A lovely view gladdened

their eyes as they stood

on the balcony whence the amiable Catherine sur-

veyed the walls hung

up with the dead. slowly by, between

thick,

and the river choked

Below, the broad Loire rolled its

green banks.

Little boys, in

the costume of Cupid, were riding great horses in to

bathe after the day's work.

The gray

town nestled

and

to the hillside,

far

roofs of the

away

stretched

summer landscape, full of vague suggestions new scenes and pleasures to the pilgrims. the

ing

We ;

start for

so, ladies, I

tually,"

Chenonceaux

at seven in the

beg that you

will

morn-

be ready punc-

was the command issued by Amanda,

they went to their rooms, after a festive dinner of

SHAWL-STRAPS.

what she

called

"earthworms and

fond of stewed brains, baked

eels,

and pigweed chopped up

oil.

Such a

droll night as the

locks on the doors and straight

wanderers spent!

soft footsteps

they were only orders to

kill

stealing

suspicious

carts

up and (though

chickens and pick salad'

morrow), and a ghostly whistle that

turbed Lavinia so much, she at in the green coverlet,

and

Stairs leading

bells.

down, whispers that sounded

last

dis-

draped herself

and went boldly forth upon

the balcony to see what

She intended to demand

would

thistles

up the gallery from the court-yard,

going and coming,

for the

being

cacti,"

and

meant. silence, in

French that

strike terror to the soul of the bravest native.

But when she saw that

poor, dear, hard-worked

gargon blacking boots by the light of the moon, her heart melted with pity; and, resolving to give

an extra

fee,

bower, and orange

fell

asleep in a stuffy little bed,

curtains filled

eruptions,

him

she silently retired to her stone-floored

and

her

whose

dreams with volcanic

conflagrations

of the

most

lurid

description.

seven, an open carriage with a stout pair of

FRANCE.

horses and a sleepy driver, rolled out of the court-

Within

yard of the Lion d'Or.

who gazed

sat three ladies,

one another with cheerful counte-

nances, and surveyed the world with an air of bland content, beautiful to behold. " I arn fairly faint with happiness," sighed Matilda, as they drove

through

fields scarlet

with poppies,

starred with daisies, or yellow with buttercups, while birds piped gayly,

"You for

it.

stirred

and

trees

wore

their early green.

That accounts

did not eat any breakfast.

Have

a crust, do," said

Amanda, who seldom

without a good, sweet crust or two; 'for they

were easy to

carry,

wholesome

to chew, and always

ready at a moment's notice. "

Let us save our entusymusy '

chateau,

and

till

get to the

enjoy this lovely drive in a peaceful

manner," said Lavinia,

still

little

sleepy after her

adventures in the glimpses of the moon. So,

for

an hour or two they rolled along the

smooth road, luxuriating sounds about them

women working round some

;

in the

tiny,

in the

summer

the wayside

gardens

picturesque

;

sights

cottages,

and with

villages clustered

church

;

windmills

whirling on the distant hill-tops; vineyards

full

;

SHAWI^STRAPS.

peasants tying up the young vines, or trudging by

with baskets on their backs, heaped with green

Old men, breaking

cuttings for the goats at home.

stone

by the

roadside, touched their red caps to the

them from the cherry-

pilgrims, jolly boys shouted at trees,

and

children peeped from behind the

little

rose-bushes blooming everywhere.

Soon, glimpses of the winding Cher began to appear, then an avenue of stately trees, and then,

standing directly in the river, rose the lovely chateau built

for

Diane de Poictiers by her royal

Leaving the carriage

at the lodge, our sight-seers

crossed the moat, and, led

with a its

lisp,

lover.

a wooden-faced girl

entered the famous pleasure-house, which

present owner (a pensive

who played pot tower),

fitfully is

man

in black velvet,

on a French-horn

carefully

restoring

in a peppeiits

former

splendor.

The

great picture-gallery was the chief attraction

and beginning with Diane herself

—a

tall,

simpering

baggage, with a bow, hounds, crescent, and a blue sash for drapery

review of

— they were led

all sorts

through a rapid

of worthies and unworthies, relics

and rubbish, without end.

Portraits

are

always

FRANCE. interesting.

Art," as

Mat

Even said,

soul for

and pictures of Montaigne,

Sorel,

Ninon D'Enclos, Madame de Sevigne, and

Rabelais,

miniatures of latter

who "had no

Lavinia,

looked with real pleasure at a bas-

Agnes of

relief of

La Fayette and Ben

The

Franklin.

gentleman looked rather out of place in such

society

good old

but, perhaps, his

;

Dianes and Ninons a certainly

was a

silent

wigged sages and bejewelled

Here was the

little

which kings had philosophers

The

sinnei's.

theatre where

Rousseau's

Here were the gilded

sat,

suit

wearied with peri-

chairs in

swords heroes had held, books

had pored

over,

mirrors

that

had

famous beauties, and j^ainted walls that had

reflected

looked

His plain

sermon.

relief to the eye,

plays were acted.

face preached the

down on

royal revels long ago.-

old kitchen

had a

fireplace big

enough

dozen cooks to have spoilt gallons of broth pots and pans, and a

which they could

handy

fish at

little

in,

for a

queer

window, out of

any moment,

for the river

ran below.

The were

chapel, all

chambers, balconies, and

being repaired

Sand's grandmother,

;

for,

thanks

who owned

terraces

George

the place in the

SEA WL-STRAPS.

time of the Revolution, to her,

The

and

is still

ladies

was spared out of respect

a charming relic of the past.

went down the mossy

steps, leading

from the gallery to the further shore, and, lying under the oaks, wiled away the noon-time by re-peopling the spot with the shapes that used to inhabit

A very

it.

the

happy hour

little river,

the fresh wind, and before

was, dreaming there

with the scent of

new-mown hay

them the

airy towers

and

gables of the old chateau rising from the stream like

a vision of departed splendor, love, and romance.

Having seen every

thing,

and bought photographs

libitum of the wooden-faced lisper,

awfully,

drove

the pilgrims

relics, royalty,

who

cheated

away, satiated with

and " regardezP

Another night

in the stony-hearted, orange-colored

rooms, with the sleepless gargon sweeping and mur-

muring outside

Banshee, while

the

hens

roosted sociably in the gallery, the horses seemed to be

champing

directly under the bed,

Huguenots bumping down castle-walls.

Another curious meal wafted from the

bowels of the earth and cooled by blow,

and the dead

ivpon the roof from the

all

the airs that

— then the shawd-straps were girded anew, the

FRANCE. carriage (a half-grown

omnibus with the jaundice)

mounted, the farewell hows and adieux received, and

rumbled the duchesses en route

forth

My heart

for Blois.

rent at leaving that lovely chateau"

said Mat, as they crossed the bridge.

"I less

mourn the earth-worms, the

'gossoon,'

"•

cacti,

and the

tire-

added Amanda, who appreciated

French cookeiy and had enjoyed confidences with Adolphe. '.'The cats, the cats, the cats

had one," murmured Lavinia they

left

Any river,

the

;

I could die

happy if I

and with these laments

town behind them.

thing hotter than Blois, with

dusty boulevards, and baked

be imagined.

its

half dried-up

streets,

can Ijardly " did "

But these indomitable women

the church and the castle without flinching.

former was pronounced a entirely satisfactory.

failure,

The Emperor was having

restored in the most splendid manner.

seemed rather

fresh

The

but the latter was

The

interior

and gay when contrasted with

the time-worn exterior, but the stamped leathern

hangings, tiled fireplaces,

floors,

were quite

emblazoned beams, and carved correct.

porcupines and salamanders, 7

Dragons and crowns,

monograms and flowers,

SHAWL-STRAPS.

shone everywhere in a maze of scarlet and gold,

brown and

the

meek

purple and white.

silver,

Here the

historical

Amanda revelled, and quenched

old guide with a burst of information

which caused him to stare humbly

"the

mad

English."

" jRegardez,

of the

Due de

Henri

III.,

chamber and oratory of

dears, the

who

Catherine de Medicis,

This

Guise.

here plotted the death is

the cabinet of her son,

where he gave the daggers to the gentle-

men who were

the barricades.

him of

ricl

This

his

enemy, the hero of

the Salle des Gardes, where

Guise was leaning on the chimney-piece when sum-

moned

to the king.

This

the

little

room

at the

entrance of which he was set upon in the act of

lift-

ing the drapery, and stabbed with forty wounds." "

about

how

horrid

gasped

Matilda, staring

saw the sanguinary gentlemen

she

approaching. " So interesting

go On

was fond of woe, and enjoyed "This

" cried Lavinia,

who

horrors.

the hall where the body lay for two

hours, covered with a cloak and a cross of straw on

the breast," cut in

Amanda,

as the guide

opened his

FRANCE. "

mouth.

Here the king came

upon the

to look

corpse of the once mighty Henri le Balafre, and

spurned it

for you,

with his

Mat,

—

and then ordered

Je ne

—I

le croyais

to be burnt,

Remember

into the river.

December

foot, saying, '

shall not translate

pas aussi grand,'

and the ashes cast

the date, I implore you,

23, 1588."

As Amanda paused

for

breath the

little

man

took

the word, and rattled off a jumble of facts and fictions

about the window from which Marie de Medicis

lowered herself when imprisoned here by her dutiful son, Louis XIII. "I

wish the entire

her, for I

had been tossed out

do think kings and queens are a

rascals," cried ties to

lot

after

set of

Mat, scandalized by the royal iniqui-

which she had been

listening,

till

the hair

stood erect upon her innocent head.

The trial

Salle des Etats

of the

Emperor's justice

was being prepared

men who had

life,

lately

and a most theatrical display of

was to be presented to the

richly carved

for the

attempted the

stair-case,

salamanders squirming up and

down

The

public.

with Francis the it,

First's

was a

relic

worth seeing; but the parched pilgrims found the

SHA WL-STRAPS.

100

pots of clotted cream quite as interesting, and

little

much more

refreshing,

when they were served up

lunch (the pots, not the pilgrims), each covered with a fresh vine-leaf, and delicately flavored with butter-

cups and clover.

Amanda won praising relays,

the favor of the stately gargon by

them warmly, and he kept bringing

and urging her to eat a

a persuasive dignity hard to

"But else

yes, mademoiselle,

can creme de

St.

resist.

They

Gervais be achieved.

impossible to convey

with

one more, for nowhere

are desired, ardently desired, in Paris is

in fresh

third, a fourth,

them

;

far,

but, alas

such

their

exquisite delicacy."

How many muse

saith

the appreciative ladies consumed, the

not,,

but the susceptible, heart of the

great gargon was deeply touched, and difficulty that

was with

they finally escaped from his atten-

tions.

being presented with a cast-off camp-stool,

and a pair of old

boots- to dispose

of,

he instantly

appropriated them as graceful souvenirs, and clasp-

ing his hands, declared with effusion that he would seat his infant

upon the

so-useful stool,

and

offer the

FRANCE. charming boots to Madame,

weep

for

With

101

wife,

melodramatic valedictory, he suffered

this

the guests to depart, and the last they

he was

who would

joy at this touching tableau.

still

waving a dirty napkin

saw of him, he stood at

the gate, big, bland, and devoted to the end, though the drops stood thick upon his

manly brow, and the

sun glared fiercely on his uncovered head. " I shall write

home," said Lavinia,

article

on gargons when I get

who was always planning great " We have known

works and never executing them. such a nice variety, and that dear,

we owe them

all

have been so good to us

a tribute.

You remember

the

tow-headed one at Morlaix, who insisted on

handing us dishes of

snails,

and papers of pins with

which to pick out the repulsive delicacy ? " "Yes, and the gloomy one with black linen sleeves

who glowered

at us, sighed gustily in our ears,

and

anointed us with gravy as he waited at table," added

Amanda. " Don't forget the dark one,

with languid, Spanish

eyes and curly hair, on the boat going

down

the

Ranee.

How

sure, as

he kept picking up our beer-bottles when

picturesque and polite he w^as, to be

SHAWL-STRAPS.

102

who had

they rolled about the deck " put in Mat, the dark youth

and black

as big "

safely in her sketch-book,

with eyes

as blots.

The solemn one

who

at Tours,

squirted seltzer-

water out of window at the beggars, without a smile,

So was the

was very funny.

who

hands,

The

was

fast-trotter at

Amboise won

so supernaturally lively,

amiability.

one with grubby

on carrying the heaviest."

sisted

little

tottered under the big dishes, but in-

sure

and

heart,

so full of hurried

very dear gargon indeed."

you remember the superb being

whose eyes threatened

to fall out of his

Also, Flabot's chubby

exciting moments.

at Brest,

head

boy who

adored Mat, &nd languished at her, over the onions, like a

Cupid in a blue blouse." will

do justice to every one," and Lavinia took

copious notes on the

sjDot.

Orleans was a prim, tidy town, and after taking a

look at the fine statue of the Maid, and laughing at

some funny

little

soldiers

drumming wildly

in the

Place, our travellers went on to Bourges. " This, now,

a nice, dingy old place, and

take our walks abroad directly, for

will

looks like rain,

;

FRANCE.

103

and we must make the most of our time and money," said

Amanda " For, though on pleasure she was bent,

She had a frugal mind."

Forth they went, found the waters

all

was

as soon as dinner

abroad also

;

playing away with a hose, every

for

over,

every

woman

and

man was

scrubbing

her door-steps, and the children gayly playing leapfrog in the puddles.

"Nasty, damp place," croaked the Raven, obscuring her disgusted countenance behind the inevitable

gray cloud, and gathering her garments about her, as they

hopped painfully over the wet

stones, for

sidewalks there were none.

find

refreshing after the

Mat from

Please detach on, or

shall see

ever amiable

dust and heat.

that shop window,

and come

nothing before dark," replied the

Amanda.

Matilda would glue herself to every jeweller's

window, and remain fascinated by the richness there displayed,

till

led

away by

force.

this occasion,

however, her mania led to good results

;

for, at

the

ninth window, as her keepers were about to drag

her away, a ring of peculiar antiquity caught their

SHAWL-STRAPS.

104

eyes simultaneously, and, to Mat's amazement, both

plunged into the

little

pale emerald, surrounded in silver,

A set

with a wide gold band cut in a leafy pattern,

composed "

it.

by diamond chippings

shop, clamoring to see

this

gem

of price.

A Francis First ring,

sold

a noble but impov-

erished family, and only a hundred francs,

Madame,"

said the man, politely anxious to cheat the fair foreigners out of four times its value.

" Can't afford

it,"

and Lavinia

But the

retired.

shrewd Amanda, with inimitable shrugs and pensive

was

sighs, regretted that it

ring

;

but, alas

The man was

forty francs

so costly.

is all

ranged

sweet

desolated to think that eighty francs

was the lowest he was permitted

Madame

I have to give."

to receive.

call again,

and perhaps

"Would

might be

ar-

Ah, no! Madame

forced to depart early, to

return no more.

Hon Dieu! how would be

Madame the utmost

"Hold!

In that

afflicting!

case, sixty

possible for so rare a relic. is ;

abime, but

therefore, "

Where

it is

not to be.

Merci" and

shall

Forty

Honjour."

sent?"

cries

the

FRANCE. man, giving

in,

105

but not confessing

it,

with awkward

frankness.

A once

Madame

thousand thanks'!

herself away, with the ring "

will

pay

for it at

and laying down the money, she sweetly bows

;

upon her

finger.

"What a people !" ejaculated Lavinia, who always

cobweb when she attempted to

a fly in a

felt like

deal with the French, in her blunt, confiding way. " It

great fun," answered

ring with

Madame Coeur tering

satisfaction

kindly direct

after

Amanda,

flashing her

" Will

the skirmish.

to the house of Jacques

she added, addressing an old

woman

in sabots.

clat-

"Allez toujours a droit en vous appuyant sur la gauche," replied the native, beaming and bowing the streamers of her cap

They followed

waved

till

in the wind.

these directions, but failed to find

the place, and applied to another old

woman

eating

soup on her door-step. " Suivez le

was the

chemin droit en tombant & gauche,"

reply,

with a wave of the spoon to

all

the points of the compass. " Great heavens,

who had been

what a language

" cried Lavinia,

vainly endeavoring to "support" her-

SHAWL-STRAPS.

106

as she "fell" in every direction over

self,

the

and into

full gutters.

The house was found

at lasl, an ancient, mysteri-

ous place, with a very curious window, carved to

look as

the shutters were half open, and from

behind one peeped a man's head, from the other a woman's, both so

life-like

that

quite startled the

Murray informed the observers that these

strangers.

servants are supposed to be looking anxiously for their master's return, Jacques having suddenly dis-

much money to the king, way of paying his debts.

appeared, after lending

who

took that mediaeval

Service was being held in the church, and the ladies

went

fine.

Much

in to rest

and

listen, for

the music was

red and white drapery gave the sanc-

tuary the appearance of a gay drawing-room, and the profane Lavinia compared the officiating clergy

The

to a set of red furniture. sofa, four

boys the

deacons the arm-chairs, and three

foot-stools, all

if to

rebuke her

silk,

lace tidies.

frivolity, a lovely fresh voice

from the hidden choir suddenly soared up lark, singing so

little

upholstered in crimson

and neatly covered with

biggest priest was the

wonderfully that a great

like a

stillness

FRANCE. on the

fell

and while

listeners,

church and

its

107 lasted the tawdry-

mummery were

quite forgotten, as

the ear led the heart up that ladder of sweet sounds

Even when the

to heaven.

could far

still

others joined

in,

one

hear that child-voice soaring and singing

above the

rest, as if

ing with the echoes

some

among

angel were play-

little

the arches of the roof.

A proud native informed the

strangers that

was

was the pride of

a poor boy whose exquisite voice

make

the town, and would in time

his fortune.

the choir-boys came racing downstairs after service, pulling off their dingy robes as they ran, Lavinia tried to pick out the little angel, but despair, for a

more uninteresting

gave

set of bullet-headed,

copper-colored sprigs she never saw.

Rain drove the wanderers back there they

made

a night of

it.

the largest of the three stuffy

to the hotel,

Ordering a

little cells

and

fire

occupied, they set about being comfortable, for

had turned in

chilly,

and a furious wind disported

and out through numberless

was

inspired to mull

some

Avine,

jorum that cheered, but did not

Amanda produced

which they

crevices.

itself

Lavinia

and brewed a mild inebriate.

her Shakspeare, and read aloud

SHA WL-STRA PS.

108

while the simmering and sipping went on.

Matilda

sketched the noble commander as she lay npon the

with her Egyptian

sofa,

profile in fine relief,

and her

A large

aristocratic red slippers gracefully visible.

gray cat of a social turn joined the party, and added

much

to the domesticity of the scene

sitting

the hearth in a cosey bunch and purring blissfully. "

Now

your turn to propose something for

the general amusement, Mandy," said Mat,

when

the

beakers were drained dry and the Montagues and

Capulets comfortably buried. " Let us attend to the culture of our nails," replied

Amanda, producing her polissoir, powder, and

knife.

Three cups of tepid water were produced, and the

company

sat eagerly soaking their finger-tips for a

time, after which

much pruning and

on, to the great

bewilderment of Puss, who poked

own paws

her

polishing

went

into the cups, as if trying to test the

advantages of this remarkable American custom. "

What would

now ? "

pink

our blessed mother say

she saw

said Mat, proudly examining ten pointed

nails at the tips of her

" People told us

came abroad, and

long fingers.

should get demoralized

this is the first step

on the down-

FRANCE.

109

ward road," returned Lavinia, shaking her head over her "

own

backslidings.

ISTo

it's

for dinner,

the second step.

ate calves' brains

and what I'm sure were

mushrooms.

frogs' legs

You know we vowed we

with

wouldn't

touch their horrid messes, but I really begin to like

who had pronounced every

them," confessed Mat,

dish at dinner " De-licious "

I will write a

poem

" cried

Amanda, and

leaping from the sofa she grasped her pen, flung open

her portfolio, and in a few brief moments produced these inspired stanzas.

THE DOWNWARD ROAD. Two Yankee maids of simple mien, And earnest, high endeavor, Come sailing to the land of France, To escape the winter weather.

When

first

they reached that vicious shore

They scorned Refused

the native ways,

to eat the native grub,

Or ride in native shays. " Oh, for the puddings of our

home

Oh, for some simple food These horrid, greasy, unknown things, How can you think them good 1 Thus to Amanda did they say, An uncomplaining maid, !

;

SHAWL-STRAPS.

110

Who

and answered not

ate in peace

Until one day they said,

How can you eat Against

How

can

all

you

this

—

garbage

nature's laws

eat your nails in points,

Until they look like claws

Then

patiently

"My

vile

Amanda

said,

loves, just wait a while,

The time will come you will not think The nails or victuals vile." A month has passed, and now we see That prophecy

The Is

fulfilled

ardor of those carping maids

most completely

Matilda was the

chilled.

first to fall,

Lured by the dark gossoon, In awful dishes one by one,

She dipped her timid spoon. She promised for one little week To let her nails grow long, But added in a saving clause She thought it very wrong. Thus did she take the fatal plunge, Did compromise with sin Then all was lost, from that day forth French ways were sure to win. :

Lavinia followed in her

And

train,

ran the self-same road,

Ate sweet-bread first, then chopped-up brains, Eels, mushrooms, pickled toad. She cries, " How flat the home cuisine, After this luscious food

Puddings and brutal joints of meat, That once we fancied good !

FRANCE.

Ill

And now

in all their leisure hours,

One resource never

fails,

Morning and noon and night they

And Then

sit

polish up their nails.

if in

one short fatal month,

A change like

this appears,

Oh, what will be the next result When they have stayed for years

Tremendous applause greeted

this

masterly

effort,

and other poems were produced with the rapidity of genius by

Amanda and

alternate verse, a la

Lavinia, each writing the

Beaumont and

gave a peculiar charm to these

Fletcher,

which

effusions.

When Matilda was called upon for a festive suggestion, she

promptly

replied,

with a graceful yawn

—

"Let's go to bed."

The meeting,

therefore, broke up,

ladies retired to their cells in

good

and the younger order.

But the

Raven, excited by the jocund hour, continued to rustle

who

warm room

in a state of

most exasperating

to the others,

and patter about

inexj:>ressible hilarity,

desired to sleep.

the'

Not content with

upsetting

the fire-irons occasionally, singing to the cat, and

slamming the furniture about, appearing

first

one

cell

this restless bird

kept

door with a conundrum,

then at the other with a joke, or insisted on telling

SHAWL-STRAPS.

112 funny

stories in

her den,

till

the exhausted victims

implored her to take an opium

pill

and subside

She obeyed, and

before they became furious.

after

a few relapses into wandering and joking, finally

slumbered.

Then occurred the one

thrilling

adventure of this

In the darkest hour before

happy journey.

dawn

Mat awoke, heard a suspicious noise in the middle room, and asked

Lavinia was on the rampage

again.

rustling

sound was heard.

and, listening,

reply,

" Thieves, of course.

on the

table,

a low, rasping,

Our watches and purses

are

and Lavinia has probably forgotten to

lock the door.

must attend

rose the dauntless Matilda,

who

And up neither man

to this."

feared

nor ghost.

Grasping her dagger, hitherto used as a paper cutter,

but always eager to be steeped in the gore

of brigands, robbers, or beasts of prey, she crept to

the door and peeped

showed her a dark door-way.

The

in.

The

glow of the

fire

figure crouching in the opposite

click of a pistol caught her ear, 'but

dodging quickly, the heroic the shelter

pale

girl cried sternly

of Lavinia's bed-curtain, —

from

FRANCE. K

113

Come out, or I'll fire " Mio Dio is it only you ? " answered !

voice, as

up and

Amanda, shrouded

lit

What

a familiar

in a water-proof, sprang

a match. are

you prowling about

for ? "

demanded

Mat.

To blow your

brains out, apparently," answered

Mandy, lowering her arms.

"To

"Why are you abroad?"

stab you, I fancy," and

dagger balked of

its

Mat

sheathed her

prey.

" I heard a noise." "

So did

I."

" Let's see fair

what

is,"

and lighting a candle, the

Amazons looked boldly about

the

shadowy room.

Lavinia lay wrapt in slumber, with only the end of her sarcastic nose visible beyond the misty cloud that

enveloped her venerable countenance.

outer door was

fast,

and the shutters

closed.

The

booted feet appeared below the curtains, no living eyes rolled awfully in the portrait of the salmoncolored saint upon the wall.

Yet the

rustling

and

rasping went on, and with one impulse the defenders of sleeping innocence

made

corner. 8

for the

table in the

—

" "

SHAWL-STRAPS.

114

There was the midnight robber

The

at his fell

work

big cat peacefully gnawing the cold chicken,

and knocking about the treasured

dragged

crusts

from the luncheon-banket carefully packed for an early start.

"Wake made "

and

behold

the

ruin

your

pet

has

might be murdered or carried

times over without her knowing

duenna

it.

dozen

off a

Here's a nice

And shouted

the indignant ladies shook, pinched, and till

the hapless sleeper opened one

eye,

and wrathfully demanded what the matter was.

They

told her with eloquent brevity, but instead

of praising their prowess, and thanking them with fervor, the ungrateful

woman

merely saying with drowsy " You told

time fight

me out

shut her eye again,

irascibility,

to go»to sleep,

among

and I went

;

yourselves, but don't

wake

me."

"Throw Mat," and

the cat out of

window and go

to bed,

Amanda uncocked her jnstol with the who had learned not to expect

resignation of one

gratitude in this world.

FRANCE. "

Touch

115

a hair of that clear creature and

I'll

raise

the house " cried Lavinia, roused at once. !

Puss,

on the

who had viewed the fray sitting bolt upright table, now settled the vexed question by

skipping into Lavinia's arms, feeling, with the instinct of

Mat

her race that her surest refuge was there.

retired in silent disgust,

asleep soothed

by the

and the Raven

fell

grateful purring of her furry

friend.

"Last night's experiences have given for adventures," said

a longing

Mat, as they journeyed on next

morning. "I've had quite enough of that sort," growled Lavinia. " Let us read our papers,

us something in the

and wait

way of

obscured herself in a grove of

for

time to send

a lark," and

Amanda

damp newspapers.

Lavinia also took one and read bits aloud to Mat,

who was mending

her gloves, bright yellow, four-

buttoned, and very dirty.

"Translate as you go along, I do so hate that gabble," begged Mat,

who would

not improve her

mind.

So Lavinia

scave

her a free

translation

which

116

SHAWL-STRAPS.

convulsed

Amanda behind

the reader rendered arrived," adding,

it,

"Dear me, what

Un "A fire

adding,

portrait

singular customs

portrait de feu

sont arrives,"

made graves have

" Several

the French have to be sure "

she read, "

Coming

her paper.

this passage, "Plusiers faits graves

little

Monsieur

means

farther on

mon

pere,"

a poker sketch, I

suppose."

Here a smothered giggle from Amanda caused the old lady to say, " Bless you " thinking the dear !

girl

had sneezed.

" I must have some blue cotton to with.

way,

dress

Remind me to get some at Moulins. By the how do you ask for it in French ? " said Mat,

surveying a rent in her

"Oh, just go

skirts.

in and say,

Avez-vous

replied Lavinia, with a superior "

mend my

A blue

say next ?"

son

le fils bleu,'"

air.

My precious granny, what will you

murmured Amanda, faint with suppressed

laughter.

What are you

muttering about ? " asked Granny,

sharply.

"Trying to

recall

those fine lines in "Willi elm

Meister ; don't you remember ?

Wer

nie sein

Brod

FRANCE. mit Thranen

replied

ass,' "

117

Amanda,

polite

even at

the last gasp. " I read

know any

Goethe in decent English, and don't

thing

about training

returned

asses,"

Lavinia, severely.

Amanda

That was too much! down, and had her laugh

cast her paper

out, as the only

The

saving herself from suffocation.

upon her in blank amazement,

till

means of

others gazed

she found breath

enough to enlighten them, when such peals of merriment arose, that the guard popped his head in to see if he

had not unwittingly shipped a load of

lunatics.

But now we must sober

•"That was splendid! down,

for a

Amanda,

gorgeous being

The gorgeous being demure

about to get

in," said

as they stopped at a station.

ladies

rapt

entered,

and found three

newspapers.

They appar-

ently saw nothing but the words before them; yet

every one of them

man had bowed that he

knew

in the

was dressed

that the

handsome young

most superior manner

brown

buttoned to the knee, a ravishing blue gloves,

;

also,

velvet, long gaiters, tie,

buff

and pouch and powder-horn slung over

his

— SHA WL-STRAPS.

118

Also, that a servant with

shoulder.

gun had touched le

his hat

and

two dogs and a

said, " Oui,

monsieur

comte," as he shut the door.

pervaded the statues as

slight thrill

this fact

was made known, and each began to wonder how the elegant aristocrat would behave.

he stared, feebly expresses the gaze, as

rested in turn

When

site.

satisfied,

upon the three

noble

faces oppo-

he also produced a paper and

But Matilda caught a

began to read.

say that

fixity of his

big, black

eye peering over the sheet more than once, as she

peered over the top of her own.

"I don't

him.

Remember, we don't speak

French," whispered the discreet Amanda.

"I can swear that irrepressible smile,

with an

I don't," said -Lavinia,

as she

remembered the "blue

son."

"The language and I

can't

sit

of the eye

not forbidden me,

baking under a newspaper

all

the

way," returned Matilda, whose blond curls had evidently met with the great creature's approval.

A thrill

pucker about the Comte's

lips

caused a

of horror to pervade the ladies, as

Amanda

slight

murmured under her

breath,

FRANCE.

119

He may

Then we

are lost " returned the tragic Raven.

Wish he

did.

understand English

I really pine for a little attention.

It gives such a relish to life," said Matilda, thinking

regretfully of the devoted beings left behind.

The prudent Amanda and steeled their hearts,

But the

social

could not refrain from responding to advances, with a modest

drew the curtain

Lavinia

stern

and iced their countenances to

comely gentleman.

the

Matilda polite

his

" Merci, Monsieur," as he

for her, a smile

when he picked up

the unruly curling-stick, and her best

bow

offered his paper with a soft glance of the black eyes.

Amanda

In vain

tried to appall her with awful

frowns; in vain Lavinia trod warningly upon her foot

she paid no heed, and

left

the saving remembrance that

them no hope but she

couldn't

talk

French. " If the

man

shawl, and

inia,

whose

don't get out soon, tell

him she

spinster soul

I'll tie

her up in

mad," resolved Lav-

was always scandalized

the faintest approach to a flirtation. " If the

man

does speak English,

Mat

will

have

SHA WL-STRAPS.

120

own way," thought Amanda, rememhering the vow imposed upon the reckless girl. The man did Alas, alas for the anxious twain English, man did speak and in not get out soon, the her

all

ten minutes Matilda was

The anguish

halter.

like a colt

off,

without a

of her keepers added zest to

the fun, and finding that the gentleman evidently

thought her the lady of the party (owing to the yellow gloves, boots),

maid and duenna, joke, put

hat,

and irreproachable

in sober

gray and black, were

smartest

and the others

this reprehensible girl

and enjoyed that

airs,

kept up the

flirtatious

hour

to her heart's content.

if to

punish the others for their distrust, and

to reward Mat's interest in him,

Comte devoted

himself to Mademoiselle, telling her about his hunting, his estate,

and

party to

and view

call

finished

his

inviting her and her

chateau, if they ever

paused at the town, which had the honor of being his

summer

residence.

Mat responded

courtesies with confiding sweetness,

all

these

and when

length he was desolated at being obliged to tear

himself away, she "

Gave sigh

for sigh,"

FRANCE.

121

"Bon

he retired with a superb bow, a gallant

voyage, mesdames," and a wicked twinkle of the black eyes as they rested on the faces of the frozen ladies.

got rather the best of the joke in that

I?"

didn't

affair:

said Mat, gayly, as the

little

brown

velvet Adonis vanished.

"You

are

a disgrace to your party and

your

Amanda.

nation," sternly responded

Lavinia spoke not, but shook her

little sister till

the hat flew off her head, and she had only breath

enough

left to

she would do

declare with unquenched ardor that it

again the

A r ery

next chance she

got.

Lectures, laughter, and longings for

"my Comte"

Moulang Mat pronounced Moulins) was reached after a

beguiled the remainder of the way, and (as

pleasant trip through a green country, picturesque

There was not much

with the white cattle of Berri. to see, but the

Amanda was

town was

so quaint

seized with

and

quiet, that

one of her remarkable

projects.

"Let us

week

find a little house

or two.

I fain

would

somewhere and stay a

rest

and ruminate among

SEA WL-STRAPS.

122

the white cows for a while

;

have a

washing

little

done, and slowly prepare to emerge into the world

Lyons

again.

we must

onr next point, and there

bid adieu to freedom and shawl-straps."

"Very

well, dear,"

responded Lavinia,-with resig-

nation, having learned that the best

these aberrations of genius

was

way

to give in,

to curb

and

let

circumstances prove their impracticability.

So Amanda inquired of the landlady rustic cot coxild little

woman

be found.

Whereupon

clasped her dingy

little

such a

the dingy

hands, and

declared that she had exactly the charming retreat desired.

her

Truly

toilette,

yes,

and she would

once make

order out the carriage, and display this

lovely villa to the dear ladies.

With many

misgivings the three squeezed them-

selves into a square clothes-basket

by an immense, bony, white striped boy,

and adorned by Madame,

bonnet, laden with amazing tables.

driven in a

fruit, flowers,

by a

towering

and vege-

Lavinia counted three tomatoes, a bunch of

grapes, poppies

and

pansies,

berry-vines, a red, red rose,

with

on wheels, drawn

horse,

glass

dewdrops

and

wheat

ears

and black-

and one small green

lettuce,

grubs lavishly

FRANCE. sprinkled over

it.

123

truly superb chapeau

and a

memorable one.

Away

they trundled through stony streets, dusty

roads, waste grounds,

marshy meadows, and tumbled-

down pleasure-gardens, till the clothes-basket turned down a lane, and the bony horse stopped at length before a door in a high red wall. "

Behold

much

maclame, leading them with

cried

clanking of keys, into a cabbage garden.

among the

small tool-house stood

garden-stuff, with

brick floors, very dirty windows, and the atmosphere

Bags of seed, wheelbarrows, onions, and

of a tomb.

Empty

dust cumbered the ground.

on the old

table,

hearth, and a

cigar ends

trifle

bottles stood

upon the #

lay thick

gay crockery adorned the

mantel-piece.

" See, then, here

Above

room with

where the ladies

salon, so

calm.

beds, and around the garden

can

sit

all

day.

achieve the breakfast here, and

come for them

cool,

to dine at the hotel.

my Is

maid can

carriage it

can

not charm-

ingly arranged?"

"It

prospect.

simply awful," said Mat, aghast at the

SUA WL-STRAPS.

124 "Settle

you

like,

dear, only I'm afraid I

couldn't stay very long on account of the dampness,"

observed Lavinia, cheerfully, as she put a hoe-handle

under her

feet

and wiped the blue mould from a

three-legged chair. " It won't do, so

and

I'll

very particular,"

tell

her you are an invalid

said

Amanda, with another

inspiration, as she led the landlady forth to

break

the blow tenderly.

"My neuralgia is

useful if

what a comfort that

it isn't

ornamental; and

" said Lavinia, as

she lightly

threw a large cockroach out of window, dodged a wasp, and crushed a

And

was

fit spider.

many

ways.

If the party

a car to themselves, Granny was ordered to

and groan dismally, which caused other shun the poor ing

invalid.

Madame must

wanted

lie

down

travellers to

If rooms did not suit, suffer-

have sun or perish.

Late lunches,

easy carriages, extra blankets, every sort of comfort

was

for her,

" Shall I

question

whether she wanted them or not. be sick or well ?

when an

delicate health " ties palled,

was always the

invitation came, for "

first

sister's

was the standing excuse when par-

or best

gowns were not

get-at-able.

FRANCE.

125

While Amanda conferred with the hostess among the cabbages,

Mat

discovered that the picturesque

white cattle in the

by were

extremely-

and unsocial; that there was no house

fierce sight,

field

and the venerable horse and shay would never

sustain

many

trips to

and

fro to

dinner at the hotel.

Lavinia poked about the house, and soon satisfied herself that

Fanny Kemble

abounded calls "

in every species of

and an atmosphere admirably calculated

to intro-

duce cholera to the inhabitants of Moulins. "It

all

settled;

what

entomological inconvenience,"

let us return,"

appearing at last with an

air

said

Amanda,

of triumph, having

appeased the old lady by eating green currants, and admiring an earwiggy arbor, commanding a fine

view of a marsh where frogs were piping and cool mists rising as the sun

set.

The chickens were tough bitter,

dinner, the

the bread sour, but no one reproached

as the cause of this change.

bowed them

out,

And when

wine

Amanda

the hostess

next day, without a smile, they

drove away, conscious only of deep gratitude that

they were saved from leaving their bones to moulder

among

the cabbages of Moulins.

SHAWL-STRAPS.

126

Now we

return to civilization, good clothes, and

Christian food," said Lavinia, as they surveyed their

rooms

fine

as the

Grand Hotel, Lyons.

at the

"Likewise

letters

maid brought

porters

and luggage," added Amanda, in a

bundle of

and two

letters,

came bumping up with the trunks.

"Well, I've enjoyed the

trip

immensely, though

nothing very remarkable has happened," said Mat, diving into her private ark with satisfaction.

"I should

wander

like to

years, if I could hear

from

in the wilderness for

my family

Lavinia, briskly breaking

said

at intervals,"

open the plump,

travel-worn letters. "

Then you

consider our trip a success

Amanda, pausing

in the act of

asked

removing the dust

from her noble countenance.

perfect success!

have done what

planned, had no mishaps, seen and enjoyed much, quarrelled not at

all,

laughed a great

altogether festive, thanks to you.

deal,

I shall

and been

hang

shawl-strap on the castle wall as a trophy of the

prowess of Declaration Lavinia.

my Amanda, of

and the success of the

last

American Independence," replied

FRANCE.

127

"I, also," said Mat, opening her bundle for the

one hundredth and " You do

last time.

me proud

;

humbly thank you," and

with a superb curtsy the commander-in-chief modestly retired

behind the towel.

IV.

SWITZERLAND. " TV

ITY

sat

about in dressing-gowns after a busy day in

children, listen to the it is

words of wisdom ere

too late," began Lavinia, as the three

Geneva. "

"We

listen,

go on, Granny,"

girls.

the irreverent

rej^lied

" If

stay here

Firstly, this

noisy and

week

Metropole

full

longer,

are ruined.

an expensive hotel

of fashionable people,

whom

;

also

I hate.

Secondly, the allurements of the jewellers' shops are too

much

spend

all

we had

for us, and'

our money.

along the Rhine, as

better flee before

Thirdly, if war does break out

rmmor now

predicts,

Geneva

will

be crammed with people whose plans, like ours, are upset

;

therefore

haid better skip across the lake,

and secure a comfoiicable place

for

Vevey

probably have to

or Montreux, ifor

winter there."

shall

ourselves at

SWITZERLAND. " Hear, hear

get over her

little

will

and

it,

ourselves with

in this refuge for all wanderers

"But

I like

doesn't

some nook

on the face of the

Amanda. Geneva

watch the splendid waiters like

if Italy

revolution in time for us to go to

Rome, we must content continent," said

129

much.

so gay, and the shops

richness before.

in at dinner,

file

young gentlemen ready

such fun to

It's

for a hall

;

looking

the house

— never did I dream of such

stay another

week and buy a

few more things," prayed Matilda, who spent most of her time gloating over the jewelry, and tempting

her sister to buy " No

all

good pensions in somewhere.

manner of

useless gauds.

go to-morrow.

will

know

of several

Vevey, so we are sure of getting

Pack

at once,

and

let

flee," re-

turned Lavinia, who, having bought a watch, a ring,

and a

locket, felt that it

And go little

was time to

go.

they did, settling for a month at Bex, a

town up the valley of the Rhone, remarkable

for its

heat, its

dirt,

its

lovely scenery, and the

remarkable perfection to which

brought the

goitre, nearly

its

inhabitants

had

every one being blessed

with an unsightly bunch about the neck, which they 9

SHAWL-STRAPb.

130

decorated with ribbons and proudly displayed to the disgusted traveller.

Here its

in the rambling old Hotel des Bains, with

gardens,

balconies,

the wanderers

and

reposed

for

queer a

little

rooms,

Polish

time.

and governess,

countess, with her lover, daughter,

conferred distinction upon the house.

old

Hun-

garian count,

who

labored under the delusion that

he descended

a direct line from Zenobia, also

adorned the scene. boys,

artist

with two pretty

named Alfred Constable Landseer Reynolds

and Allston "West Cuyp Vandyke, afforded Matilda

much

satisfaction.

English so

still

mammas

of course, for

French

with prim daughters of thirty or

tied to their apron-strings

they are everywhere

folk raving about the

were ;

to be found,

also

wandering

war one minute and

tearing their hair over bad coffee the next.

Amanda

read newspapers and talked politics with

the old count apricots

;

while Lavinia, with a paper bag of

under one arm and a volume of

D'Israeli's

novels under the other, spent her shining hours wan-

dering from balcony to garden, enjoying the heat,

which gave her a short respite from her woes.

SWITZERLAND.

131

company with a kindred made the ascent of Mount St. Bernard with

"While here Matilda, in soul,

the pleasing accompaniments of wind, rain, thunder,

and lightning.

went on

But the

in spite of

travellers

who

and a guide

Americans

irrepressible

warnings from more prudent

stopped half-way.

for escort, the

With one mule

two enthusiasts waded

swollen streams with ice-cold

water up to their

knees, climbed slippery roads, faced

what seemed a

whirlwind at that height, and, undaunted by the uproar of the elements, pressed on to the Hospice, to the great admiration of Moritz, the guide, told

them he had seldom taken men up

who

in such a

storm, never ladies.

the Hospice the dripping lasses found a hos-

welcome from the handsome monk who does the honors there. Being provided with dry gar-

pitable

ments, and having

draped in

skirts of

much fun over the tall Matilda many colors in the attempt to

get any long enough, they were fed and the engaging monk, sat

about a roaring

out,

with thrilling

saved, the

wild

who

fire

entertained

warmed by

them

as they

while the storm raged with-

tales of the travellers

adventures

they had

known

SHAWL-STRAPS.

132

the dreadflil winter time, and the gifts bestowed

upon them

grateful

travellers

generous

guests.

The Prince and many famous

of "Wales had sent

fine pictures

pei'sons.

girls,

their guardians

piano,

who spends much amused at the

old English lady

her summers up there seemed

prank of the

them a

ornamented the walls from

and evidently wondered what

were about.

merry and memorable evening; and when, on

going to their

cells,

they found the beds nicely

warmed, Matilda exclaimed, " This

—

the most delightful union of the romantic

Alps and warming-

and the comfortable I ever saw. pans taken jintly ' are delicious

five

next morning they were wakened by the

chanting of the invisible brotherhood, and went

down

to the chapel for mass.

going out for a

clamber on the rocks, seven or eight great dogs came

baying and leaping about them, licking their hands

and smelling their garments to see hurt.

they were

Looking into their bright, benevolent eyes,

one could well believe the wonderful

tales told of

Though

so powerful

their courage

and

sagacity.

SWITZERLAND. and large they were gentle

133 and the dog-

as kittens,

loving girls were proud to receive and return the caresses of these four-footed heroes.

Leaving a grateful souvenir

in the

box intended

to receive whatever guests choose to leave, the girls

descended

in the

morning sunshine, finding

different experience

and calm now,

from the ascent.

—beautiful

a very

All was clear

and grand;

and only

pausing at M. to send back a fine engraving to the

comely

priest,

who had made

a deejJ impression on

their romantic hearts, the enfants returned to their

anxious friends, mildewed, rumpled, and weary, but full

of enthusiastic delight over their

successful

ascent of St. Bernard.

War

broke out, and Alexandre, the all-accom-

plished head-waiter, dropped his napkin, shouldered his gun,

and marched away, leaving the Hotel des

Bains desolate.

Being pretty thoroughly baked,

and very weary of the to Vevey, and settled

little

down

town, our in the best

trio

departed

pension that

ever received the weary traveller.

Standing in

its

own

pretty grounds, and looking

out upon the lake, Pension Paradis deserves

name.

its

Clean and coscy within, a good table, a

SEA WL-STRAPS.

134

kindly hostess, and the jolliest old host ever seen I

what more could the human heart

Vevey was swarming with or the

los,

Duke de Madrid,

desire ?

refugees.

as he

was

Don

Car-

called,

was

there with his Duchess and court, plotting heaven

knows what up

at his villa,

men who haunted Queen

with the grave, shabby

the town.

and Spanish

Isabella reigned at one hotel,

grandees pervaded the place.

There were several

Pension Paradis, and no one guessed what creatures they were

grim, gray quises,

till

a fete day arrived, and the

men blossomed

and

great,

out into counts, mar-

generals covered

with

orders,

stars,

and crosses splendid to behold.

One

particularly silent, shabby little

shaven head and to smile, sion

fine

became an object of

by appearing

in a

interest

the' grasshopper

mean?

with a

on that occa-

gorgeous uniform with a

great gilt grasshopper hanging a broad green ribbon.

man

who was never seen

black eyes,

Who

down

his

was he?

Where

back from

What

did

did he go to in a

fine carnage,

and what was he plotting with the

other Carlists,

who dodged

all

hours ?

and out of his room

;

SWITZERLAND.

No one ever knew,

and

all

135

the artful questions put

to the

young Spaniard, who played croquet with the

girls,

were unavailing.

except that

little

Nothing was discovered,

Mirandola had a

be sent back to Spain any day to

title,

and might

lose his life or lib-

erty in some rash plot, which circumstance

made

the black-eyed boy doubly interesting to the free-

Lavinia bewailed his hard

born Americans.

Amanda

taug*ht

him whist and

lot,

and

told his fortune,

Matilda put him in her sketch-book done in the blackest India-ink.

doomed

little

It is also to

Don was

once, and that was classical

occasion

never seen to laugh but

when

the girls taught

game of Muggins.

he went about saying of

his

be recorded that the

The name

to himself,

him the

struck

him

and on the

first

"mugginsed," he was so

being

tickled that he indulged in a hearty boy's laugh

;

but

immediately recovered himself, and never smiled again, as if in

penance

for so forgetting his dig-

nity.

bashful Russian,

who wore remarkably

fine

broadcloth and had perfect manners, was likewise received into the good graces of the ladies,

who

taught him English, called him "the Baron" in

SHAWL-STRAPS.

136 private,

and covered him with confusion in public by

making him

talk at table.

But the most amusing of

Madame

A., a

all

the family was

handsome widow from Lyons, with

two ugly children and a stout old mamma, who wore orange stockings and a curious

edifice of black

The widow who was mortally

lace encircled with large purple asters.

had married an

Italian artist,

jealous of his wife, whose blonde beauty attracted

much

attention at

Rome.

In some quarrel with a

model the husband was stabbed, and the handsome

widow

left in

A tall, fair nette

;

peace. lady, with a profile like Marie Antoi-

she dressed in white with violet ribbons, and

wore much ancient jewelry. getic

loud-voiced, ener-

woman, who bewailed the sack of her house

Lyons, scolded her children, and cursed the Ger-

mans with equal alas

ners

did

volubility

and

spirit.

When

was the picture of a patrician beauty;

she

silent

but,

her voice destroyed the charm, and her man-

— great

heavens, what

things

that

woman

Picking her pearly teeth with a hair-pin, and

knocldng her darlings into their chairs with one

sweep of her elbow when they annoyed her at

SWITZERLAND. were the

table,

least

of the

137

horrors she perpe-

trated.

But she talked

devoted herself to her family,

well,

and took misfortune bravely ; doned

Her

infants

with

much may be

were only remarkable

The

ness and curious costumes.

wore

soiled

silk

for their ugli-

little girl

usually

gowns, and had her hair tied up

The boy appeared

bits of twine.

in a suit of

yellow calico spotted with black, looking very like a

par-

her.

canary bird

who had

festival occasions

fallen into

much

an inkstand.

he wore white cloth raiment,

with red ribbons stuck here and there, and high red boots.

But, on the whole, queerest of the set

;

the

old

for she spent

lumbering up and down

stairs,

mamma

was the

most of her time which amusement

kept the orange hose constantly before the public.

When

not disporting herself in this way, she dozed

in the salon, or

consumed much food

at table with a

devotion that caused her to suck her fingers, on

every one of which shone an antique ring of price.

Her head-gear was a ing Lavinia,

who

perpetual puzzle to the observ-

could never discover whether

SHAWL-STRAPS.

138 was a

cap, a bonnet, or a natural production, for it

was never

off.

Madame walked

day, and very likely slept in

out in

it.

wore

it,

it all

least Lavinia

firmly believed so, and often beguiled the watcbes

of the night, imagining the old soul placidly slum-

bering with the perennial asters encircling her aged

brow

like a halo.

One

other party there was

rest of the household.

sickly daughter, for her

who

who would have been

affectation

was engaged

who much amused

the

American lady with a pretty but

The

and sentimentality.

to a fierce, dissipated

girl

Russian,

little

presented her with a big bouquet every morn-

ing, followed her

about

wrathfully at any

all

day

man who

like a dog,

and glared

cast an eye

upon the

languishing damsel in white muslin and flowing curls

"bedropt with pearls," as a romantic lady

expressed It

it.

was evident that the Russian without any

vowels in his name was going to marry Mademoiselle for

her money, and the weak

of satisfaction at the prospect. a doubtful bargain, and feeble girl

doomed

much

Mamma

was

others

seemed

pity was

felt for

full

the

go to Russia with a husband

SWITZERLAND. who had

139

" tyrant " written in* every line of his bad,

blase little face

and

French polish could not

figure.

hide the brute, nor any quantity of flowers conceal the chain by which he was leading his

away

bondage in

St.

new

serf

Petersburg.

Into the midst of this select society came a coun-

tryman of our

three,

— a jocund

eclipsed

the Arabian Nights.

fruits

tales that utterly

Festive times

lowed, for the "Peri" (the pet

youth) gave them the

youth fresh from

and

Algiers, with relics, adventures,

name

fol-

of aforesaid

of his long wander-

ings,

sung whole operas heard in Paris, danced bal-

lets

seen in Berlin, recounted perils

among

the

Moors, served up gossip from the four corners of the globe, and conversed with each

household in his or her

cheerful

own

member

of the

language.

comrade was the " Peri," and a great

addition to the party,

who now

spent most of their

time sitting about the town, eating grapes, and listening to the pranks of this sprightly M.D.,

seemed to be studying

his profession

over Europe with a guitar

la troubadour.

Sounding the lungs of a veiled princess

was the

who

by wandering

least of his adventures,

Morocco

and the treasures he

;

SHAWL-STRAPS.

140

had collected supplied Lavinia with materials unlimited romances

cuff-buttons

of marble picked up

among

diamond crescents and so antique

made from

for bits

the ruins of Carthage

ear-rings

and splendid that

bought in Toledo,

Amanda

relic-loving

raved about them; photographs of the

belles

Constantinople, Moorish coins and pipes, bits of curious Indian embroidery;

power of

telling

how

and, best of

all,

the

each thing was found in so

graphic a manner that Eastern bazaars, ruins, and palaces seemed to rise before the listeners as in the

time of the magic

he packed

story-tellers.

his knapsack,

But

all

too soon

and promising to bring each

of his friends the nose or ear of one of the shattered saints

from the great cathedral at Strasbourg, the

"Peri" vanished from Paradis, and

left

them

all

lamenting.

The

little flurry in

travellers after

much

Italy ending peacefully, our discussion resolved to

the Alps and spend the winter in

Rome,

So with tragic farewells from those they

cross

if possible. left

behind

them, who, hoping to keep them longer, predicted

manner of misfortunes, the three strong-minded rumbled away

all

ladies

in the coupe of a diligence to Brieg.

SWITZERLAND.

141

A lovely day's journey up the valley of the Rhone, and a short

town

night's rest in the queer little

the foot of the mountains.

Before light the next morning they were called,

went

and, after a hurried breakfast in a stony hall,

out

shivering

the

into

through the narrow

darkness, and, stumbling

street,

came to the

starting-

Lanterns were dancing about the square,

point.

two great

diligences

loomed up before them, horses

were tramping, men shouting, and eager

travellers

In the dimly lighted

scrambling for places.

office,

people were clamoring for tickets, scolding at the delay, or grimly biding their time in corners, with

one eye asleep, and the other sharply watching the conductor. " Isn't

romantic ? " cried Matilda, wide awake,

and in a twitter of excitement. "It

frightfully cold

;

and

I don't see

how we

are

going, for both those caravans are brimful," croaked Lavinia, chafing her purple nose, and wishing

occurred to her to buy

had

a muff before going to sunny

Italy.

"I have got

bound

through-tickets,

and some one

to see us over these snow-banks, so

trust in

SHAWL-STRAPS.

142

Providence and the other man,' and we out

right, I

you," replied

assure

the

Amanda, who had conferred with a in the darkness,

Away first

lumbered one diligence

drawn by seven

the carrier's

But

and blindly put her

still

in the

little

come

shall

energetic

spectral being

faith in him.

after the other, the

horses, the second

by five, while

cart with one brought

three muffled ladies sat

up the

rear.

upon a cool stone

dark square, waiting for the spectre to keep

his promise.

did like a

man

;

for

suddenly the doors of an

old stable flew open, and out rattled a comfortable carriage with a pair of stout little horses jingling their bells,

and a brisk

driver,

pleasant, as he touched his hat to enter, assuring

them

whose voice was

and invited the

that they

ladies

would soon over-

take and pass the heavy diligences before them.

"Never again

will

I doubt you,

my Amanda,"

cried the Raven, packing herself into the dowager's

corner with a grateful heart. " I hope the top of this carriage opens for I must see every thing" cried Matilda, prancing about on

the front seat in a chaos of wraps, books, bottles,

and lunch-baskets.

;

SWITZERLAND. "

to see

course

we'd better

all

With which

and when there

does,

will see

143 any thing

dark and cold now, so

It is

it.

go to sleep again." sage remark,

Amanda burrowed

into

But not the other two.

her cloaks and slumbered.

Matilda stuck her head out of one window, uttering cries of

little

wonder and

delight at

she saw

all

while Livy watched the solemn stars pale one by one

and

as the sky brightened,

felt as if

she were climb-

ing up, out of a dark valley of weariness and pain, into a

new world

full

of grand repose.

Slowly winding higher and higher through the

damp

pine forest, softly stirring in the morning

wind, they saw the sky

warm from

its

cold gray to

a rosy glow, making ready for the sun to rise as

they never saw "Full

many

it rise

before.

a glorious morning have I seen,

Flatter the mountain tops with sovereign eye,"

but never more wonderfully than

Long

after the distant

light,

they rode in shadow

that

day.

peaks flamed in the ruddy ;

but, turning suddenly

round a corner, the sun came dazzling through a great gorge, startling

brought.

them with the splendor

SHA WL-STRAPS.

144

Down went

the carriage-top, and standing bolt up-

drank

right, three pairs of eager eyes

in the grand-

eur and the beauty that makes the crossing of the

Simplon an experience to

Peak them,

after

live for ever in the

memory.

peak of the Bernese Oberland rose behind

silver

white against a wonderful blue sky.

Before them Monte Rosa, touched with the morning red,

and

around great glaciers glittering

all

sunshine,

awful gorges with torrents

from the heights above, avalanches

still

of landslides and

relics

visible in uj>rooted trees, boulders

tumbled here and in solitary nooks

The road

in the

thundering

and ruins of shepherds' huts

there,

where sheep now

feed.

crept in and out, over

frail

bridges,

spanning chasms that made one dizzy to look

into,

through tunnels of solid rock, or galleries with win-

dows over which poured erous glaciers above. itself,

for all nature

waterfalls

This road

from the treachis

a miracle in

seems to protest against

it,

and

the elements never tire of trying to destroy

it.

Only a Napoleon would have had the audacity to

dream of such a

path,

and

it is

truly a royal road

into a lovely land.

Passing the diligences the

little

carriage

went

SWITZERLAND.

145

rapidly on, and soon the three were almost alone.

Out leaped Lavinia and Matilda and walked along the level

" it

way

that curved round a great gorge.

Go on and

let

breath away.

almost takes

It is all so magnificent

be.

must just

minute, like a passive bucket, and let

sit

pour into

me," said Lavinia, in a solemn tone.

Mat understood full,

and with a

;

own

for her

silent kiss of

heart and soul were

sympathy, walked on,

leaving her sister to enjoy that early mass in a

grander cathedral than any built with hands.

In spite of the sunshine the three

met again

bells

and when

Subsiding into

excited faces,

pale,

for a long time,

chime of the

cold,

Aurora had nipped and

with her rosy fingers."

their places with silently

was very

their noses looked like the eldest

Miss Pecksniff's, "as

tweaked

they went

with no sound but the

on the horses who were covered

Wrapped up to their eyes, Egyptian women, sat Livy and Amanda while

with a light hoar-frost. like

;

Matilda, having tried to sketch

given

up,

made

Monte Rosa, and

a capital caricature of

them

they ate cold chicken, and drank wine, in a primitive

manner, out of the bottle. 10

SHAWL-STRAPS.

146 It

was a sudden descent from the sublime

ridiculous

too

much

;

to the

but the feeble human miud cannot bear

glory at once, and

saved by the claims

of the prosaic body, that will get tired and hungry

even atop of the everlasting

and

So the enthu-

hills.

picked their chicken bones, sipped their wine,

siasts

less

felt

who

laugh over the

carrier's little boy,

banquet

and came running to

afar

ful of pale

exhausted and hysterical.

off,

good

sniffed the

offer

a hand-

Alpine flowers, with wistful glances at

the lunch, did them more good

still

for the little

chap caught and bolted the morsels they gave him with such dexterous rapidity,

was

good as

juggling.

Refuges and the Hospice came in sight one

after

the other, and while waiting to change horses one

had time to wonder how the people

managed set.

Mountaineers should be

hardy

;

living there

to be such a stolid, dirty, thriftless-looking

but these

men were

intelligent, active,

and

a most ungainly crew,

and Lavinia's theories got a sad blow.

bad dinner

affliction at

Gondo

Simplon would have been an

any other time ; but with the Valley of

for dessert,

no one cared

for other food.

Fol-

SWITZERLAND.

147

lowing the wild stream that had worn

between the immense toward

cliffs,

its

way

they drove rapidly clown

Italy, feeling that this

was a

gateway to

fit

the promised land.

on the

Iselle,

they enacted a

frontier,

little

farce for the benefit of the custom-house officers.

Lavinia and told they

Amanda had old passports, and had been Mat had none, so she

would be needed.

was ordered to try the

maid.

rdle of

Before they

arrived, she took out her ear-rings, tied

under a dingy

veil,

assume the demure

When

up her

curls

put on a waterproof, and tried air of

an Abigail.

they alighted, she was

left

to guard the

wraps in the carriage while the others went with the luggage, expecting to have all

much

trouble; for

manner of hindrances had been predicted owing unsettled state

to the

could

demanded, a very

was

of the country.

be simpler, however

all

over.

Nothing

no passports

careless search of luggage,

So Matilda threw

and ascended the diligence for here, alas

;

they

left

off

in her

the cozy

the affable driver and the jingling

her disguise,

own

little

were

and

character,

carriage with

bells.

Only two places could be found

in the

crowded

SHAWL-STRAPS.

148

and great was the

diligences,

invited

aloft

by a

friendly

Amanda was gentleman who had a

fuss

till

perch behind, large enough for two.

There they

discussed theology and politics to their hearts' content,

and

in two,

worthy man cut

at parting the

and gave

Amanda

herself with a portion of

book

his

half that she might refresh

some

delightfully dry

on Druidical Remains, Protoplasm, or the

work

state of

the church before the flood.

The

makes the charm of

force of contrast

entry into Italy ;

for, after

this

the grandeur of the Alps

and the gloomy wildness of Gondo, the smiling scene

doubly lovely as one drives down to

forgotten

Domo

Weariness, hunger, and sleep were quite

d'Ossola. ;

and when our

travellers

came to Lago

Maggiore, glimmering in the moonlight, they could only sigh for happiness, and look and look and look.

" Victory has perched

sure, for

not every stranger sunrise,

upon our banners so

never was a trip more delightful.

who

far I

It is

fortunate enough to see

noonday, sunset, and moonlight in crossing

the Alps," said Matilda, as she

fell

into her

exhausted by the excitement of the day.

bed quite

SWITZERLAND. " I feel a richer, better

believe I shall ever see if I

woman

149 for

it,

any thing more

and don't

satisfactory

stay in Italy ten years," responded Lavinia,

wrapping the red army-blanket " Like a martial cloak around her."

"Wait

the spell of

till

Rome

then see what you will

feel,

Amanda, who had

the

spell,

escaped from "

will suit

who would

Amanda's "

and had not yet

it.

Don't believe

sisted Livy,

felt

upon you, and

Granny," predicted

half so well," per-

prefer nature to art,

much

disgust.

shall

see,"

observed Amanda, with the

exasperating mildness of superior knowledge. "

knot as

shall

and Livy tied her cap in a hard

if to settle

the matter.

V. ITALY.

OLEEP

as deep, dreamless,

the beneficent

spirit

haunted the enchanted

day of calm floating

as if

of Carlo Borromeo

lake,

delights.

and refreshing

still

prepared the three for a

The" morning

was spent

over the lake in a luxuriously cushioned

boat with a gay awning and a picturesque rower, to visit Isola

Bella.

Paradise has been

Every one knows what a

made

little

to blossom on that rock ; so

raptures over the flowers, the marbles, the panniers

of lovely

fruit,

and the

dirty, pretty children

who

offered them, are unnecessary.

In the afternoon, having despatched the luggage to Florence, our travellers sailed

ing last glimpses of

away

to Luini, catch-

Monte Rosa, and enjoying the

glories of an Italian sunset

Luini the girls caused

on an Italian lake.

much excitement by

insist-

ing on sitting up with the driver instead of sharing the coupe with their decorous duenna.

must

ITALY. see

lovely views

the

151

and the moonlight," said

Amanda, and up she went. "

sit aloft

with a brigandish driver dressed in

a scarlet and black uniform, with a curly horn slung

over his shoulder, and to go tearing up

down with

four frisky horses

and

hill

is irresistible,"

and up

skipped Matilda. "

You

will

both catch your death of cold,

don't break your necks, so

will

some one to nurse or bury you," and Lavinia, ing

commands and

you

be well to have find-

entreaties vain, entered the coupe

with mournful dignity.

With

a toot of the horn, and cheers from the

crowd, which the girls

away rumbled the happy occupants. soft

twilight

gracefully

acknowledged,

diligence, with at least

How

lovely

was

wrapping every thing

two very First, the

in mystei-ious

shadow, and then the slow uprising of a glorious

ical light.

full

its

mag-

Cries of rapture from the girls atop

were

moon, touching the commonest object with

answered by exclamations from Livy, hanging half out of the coupe regardless of night

air,

or raps on

the head from overhanging boughs, as they went

climbing up

woody

hills,

or dashing

down

steep

;

152

SHAWL-STRAPS.

roads that

wound

wonder the lurch.

so sharply

round corners,

was a

airy passengers did not fly off at every

Rattling into quiet

" tootle-te-too " of the

little

towns with a grand

horn was an especial delight,

and to see the people gather so quickly that they

seemed to spring from the ground.

moment's

chatter, a drink for the horses, a soft " Felice notte,"

another toot, and away thundered the diligence for miles

more of moonlight, summer

air,

and

the

ecstasy of rapid motion.

What

that dear,

brown

driver with the red vest,

the bobtailed, buttony coat, and the big yellow tas-

dancing from his hat brim, thought of those two

sels

American damsels we be imagined

joyed himself; for asked

many

never know. But

Amanda

airs

all

as openly as if he

may

bewilderment, he en-

aired her Italian

and

Matilda invited him to per-

questions.

form national

him

shall

that, after his first

occasions,

and both admired

had been a pretty

child.

Lavinia always cherished a dark suspicion that she

narrowly escaped destruction on that eventful night for,

judging from the frequent melody, and the speed

of the horses, she was sure that either

Amanda

tooted and Matilda drove, or that both so bewildered

ITALY.

153 However,

the brigand that he lost his head. all

Granny

so delightful that even

and was sure that

was

the charm,

they did upset in some romantic

Doctor Antonio would spring up

spot, a

as a

felt

mushroom, and mend

their bones,

her giddy charges, and end the

as quickly

marry one of

affair in

the most

appropriate manner.

Nothing

happened,

o'clock they

and

fortunately,

were safely

by nine

Lugano, and, tearing

themselves from the dear brigand, were taken possession of

by a shadowy

who

being,

fed

them

in a

marble hall with statues ten feet high glaring at

them

as they ate, then led

them

had pale green doors, a red yellow bed covers,

—

all

to a

bower which

carpet, blue walls,

gay

was

and

like sleeping

in a rainbow.

another lovely lake under the windows, and

moonlight ad libitum, was not enough, they had

music

also.

Lavinia scorned the idea of sleep, and

went prowling about the rooms, hanging over the balconies,

and doing the romantic

a disgrace to her years.

She

in a style that

was

was who made the

superb discovery that the music they heard came

from across the way, and that by opening a closet

SHAWL-STRAPS.

154

window they could look

into a theatre

and see the

stage.

All rushed at once and beheld an opera in

full

blast, heartily

enjoying the unusual advantages of

their position

for not only could

;

they hear the war-

blers,

but see them when the curtain was down.

What

a thing

back

was

to see

Donna Anna do up her

Don Giovanni dance

hair,

jig,

the stately

Ottavio imbibe refreshment out of a black bottle, and

Commander prance

the ghostly

like a

Punchinello as

they got him into position.

The after

others soon

closet

balcony, with

window and

moment

long

like a ghost

from

;

but,

the lovely lake, to the

dramatic joys, feeling that no

of that memorable night should be

what other

the

breakfast,

lost, for

traveller could boast that she ever

to the opera

its

till

to sleep

midnight, old Livy wandered

the front

succumbed

wrapped

morrow

a few pictures of Luini before

and then more

driving

where a boat

went

in a yellow bedquilt ?

in festive like a

sailing

over lakes, and

diligences to

Menaggio,

market wagon without wheels

bore them genteelly to Cadenabbia, and a week of repose on the banks of

Lago Como.

;

ITALY. Their palace did not eternal

155

"lift its

summer " by any means

and was

so cold that

warmth, stone

;

marble walls to

for

some took to

floors looking

like castile-soap

being just the thing for rheumatism. danjing-bears, two hotels, one lake,

rained much,

their beds for

villa,

not

Hand-organs,

no road but the

and an insinuating boatman with one eye who

among the

lay in wait

popped out to

willows, and

grab a passenger when any one ventured forth, are that remains in the

at this

all

regarding Cadenabbia.

may

few extracts from Lavinia's note-book

be found useful

way

memory

both as a speedy

point,

of getting our travellers to

Rome, and

for the

bold criticisms on famous places and pictures which

— — Cathedral

they contain " Milan.

'Last Supper' in the barracks

— did

tried to, but couldn't, as the picture

hardly be seen.

wedding-cake.

big

Ambrosian Library.

Borgia's hair ; tea-colored and coarse. in

bit.

not 'thrill;' so

dim

— Lock

can

of L.

Don't believe

Jolly old books, but couldn't touch 'em.

Fine window to Dante. very theatrical, and deputies from

Saw

cathedral illuminated

much howling of people over the Don't know why they illumi-

Rome.

SHAWL-STRAPS.

156

why

nated or

Men

they howled; didn't ask.

Women

handsome, but rude.

wear

veils

here

and no

— and ugly. Gloves very good. Arch of Peace. — More peace and arch would be bet-

bonnets,

fat

less

ter for Italy.

"Raphael's Marriage of the Virgin. Can't like Raphael.

stupid.

old Fra Angelico suits

"To

—

Stiff

and

Dear, pious, simple,

better.

the Public Garden with A.; saw a black

ostrich with long pink legs, Avho

so like an opera dancer that

pranced and looked sat

on the fence and

shrieked with laughter. " Pavia.

— To the Certosa

to see the old Carthusian

gardens, and

Convent founded

twenty-four

dwellings, with chapel, bedroom,

parlor,

speak,

little

and yard

1396;

for each

cloisters,

monk, who

and comes out but once a week.

for lazy

men

when

to spend their lives

never to

A nice way there

much work to be done for the Lord and his poor Wanted to shake them all round, though they did look well in their

dim

cloisters

gowns and cowls

and church.

gliding about the

Perhaps they are kept

for that purpose.

Parma.

— Dome

of church

frescoed

by Cor-

ITALY. reggio.

157

All heaven upsidedown

;

fat angels turn-

ing somersaults, saints like butchers, and martyrs

simpering feebly.

Heaven

C.'s

Madonna, by Girolamo, was Abbess, tice,

babies

much

better.

be painted, and they'd better not

can't

mth

lovely.

Room

try.

of the

rosy children peeping through the lat-

Madonna

very charming.

the boy Christ very beautiful.

Scodella

della

The

—

old Farnese

Theatre most interesting; got a scrap of canvas

from a mouldy scene. " Bologna.

— Drove

Dead a

Academy, and saw many

old place pelting

pictures.

The

Guido, was very striking.

Panna.

rain

Pieta,

afterward.

St.

Jerome and the

Sad

for

desolate mother,

with her dead son on her knees, haunted

long

infant Christ,

Raphael won't

Elisabeth Sirani, I liked.

the

suit yet.

me, but I cannot admire Madonnas with

faces like fashion-plates, or dropsical babies with

baby sweetness about them. " Florence.

invalids into.

and

— Bought

Nice climate to bring

Always did think

I begin to see I

Like about

furs.

was

right.

six out of the lot.

Italy a

humbug,

Acres of pictures.

Can't bear the Venus,

or Titian's famous hussy hanging over

it.

Like his

SHAWL-STRAPS.

158 much.

portraits fun.

Roman

Busts of

Such bad heads

The

emperors great

Julias, Faustinas,

and

Agrippinas, with hair dressed like a big sponge

on the brow, were so comical I was never tired of looking at them.

now where

see

the present

bedlamite style of coiffure comes from.

The

philosophers,

&c, were very

interesting.

Cicero so like Wendell Phillips that I could hardly

help clapping

"Gave A.

hands and saying, Hear '

a sad blow

by saying

looked like an inlaid work-box. half so

Best of

much

many works for

he put

and

feels

as I

saw

all,

and I don't care

joints to their fingers

empty

table

the Campanile

Did not admire

Monastery of

of Fra Angelico.

dear picture of

hear

did a magnificent stone pine.

in the old

them, and one sees

if his saints

and impossible

Providenza,'

Marco

St.

I love his pictures,

his pious heart into

it,

do have

noses.

— poor

six

A very

monks

at an

and angels bringing bread.

my No stern, avenging God,

"Angelico's picture of heaven was more to

mind than any no

silly

have seen.

Madonna, but happy

souls playing like chil-

dren, or singing and piping with devout energy. " Relics of Savonarola,

—

his cell, bust, beads, hair-

ITALY. cloth shirt,

and a

wood from

bit of

which they burnt him. really lived, worked,

159 the pile on

I like relics of one

and

suffered, better

man who

than armies

of angels, or acres of gods and goddesses.

"Pleasant drives.

Saw

artists,

Casa Guidi win-

dows, and a model baby house with dolly's name on the door, and steps modelled

made famous

sweet

trifle

A nice little earthquake

of snow to enhance the charms of this

sj)ot.

" Visited Parker's grave, it

that have

'Papa's baby house' was

statues.

best of all his works to me.

and a

by hands

in such an unlovely,

not matter after

all: his

best

him and the

hearts that love

stood there a

and was

little

afflicted to find

crowded cemetery.

monument

It does is

souls he fed.

in the

brown bird hopped among the

vines that covered the grave, pecked

its

breakfast

from a dry seed-pod, perched on the head-stone with a grateful twitter, as grace after meat, and flew away, leaving

had

comforted by the

little

sermon

jDreached."

" I don't wish to hurt your feelings, dear, but if this

Pome

must say

a very nasty place,"

SHAWL-STRAPS.

160

began Lavinia, as they went stumbling through the

mud and

confusion of a big, unfinished station on

their arrival at the eternal city.

" People of sense don't judge a place at ten o'clock

of a pitch-dark, rainy night, especially

they are

hungry, tired, and, excuse me, love, rather cross," returned Amanda, severely, as they piled into a carriage

and drove

Now it's

to Piazza di Spagna.

a divine fountain!

see

a statue of some sort

dark figure was a

monk

spite of every thing," cried

splendid palace! I do believe that

know

I shall like

Matilda excitedly, flatten-

ing her nose against the window.

She had been much disappointed able to enter clasp her

Rome by

at not being

daylight, so that she

hands and cry aloud, half

stifled

overpowering emotions of the moment, "

Roma!

the eternal city bursts upon

That was the proper thing to

make

do,

and

might

with the

Roma view!"

was a blow

commonplace and ignoble an entry into

the city of her dreams.

Early next morning, Livy was roused from slumber

cries of delight, and, starting up,

sister

wrapped

beheld her artist

in a dressing-gown, with dishevelled

ITALY.

window, and murmuring

staring out of the

hair,

incoherently,

161

—

" Spanish Steps, that's where the models

Hope

paganda, famous Jesuit school. the

little

Pro-

sit.

I shall see

students in their funny hats and gowns.

That's the great

monument thing put up to settle fuss. Very fine, but the

the Immaculate Conception

apostles look desperately tired

Dear old houses

Heavens

of holding

there's a trattoria

with somebody's breakfast on his head

Where

any costumes.

how

staring

lovely!

here,

Mercy on and

up.

man

Don't see

are the sheepskin suits? the

red skirts and white head-cloths

Oh,

us,

I never

Girl with flowers. there's

officer

saw him!"

In came the blond head, and the blue dressing-

gown vanished from soldier who had been boots, gray

becoming

and

the eyes of the

handsome

attitudinizing with his high

scarlet cloak, jingling sword,

and

barrette cap, for the especial benefit of the

enraptured stranger.

"Livy, once.

or lose

it is

just superb

It is clouding up,

Get up and come out

and

must have one look

mind," said Matilda, flying about with

unusual energy. 11

SHAWL-STRAPS.

162

"You

will

here long,

And

have to get used to rain

child,"

you stay

returned the Raven.

she was right.

months, with occasional

poured steadily for two

flurries

of snow, also thunder,

likewise hurricanes, the tramontana, the sirocco,

and

the other charming features of an Italian winter.

all

That nothing might be wanting, a nice tion

was got up

for their benefit,

inunda-

little

December

Sitting peacefully at breakfast on the

28th.

morning of

that day, in their cosey apartment, with a

and olive-wood

cones

cheerily

burning

fire

of the

hearth, Jokerella, the big cat, purring on the rug,

the

and

little

coffee-pot proudly perched

butter,

eggs and

fruit,

among bread

while the ladies, in

dressing-gowns and slippers, lounged luxuriously in arm-chairs, one red, one blue, one yellow

the maid,

who

announcing, risen,

was

;

they (the

not the chairs) were startled by Agrippina,

ladies,

burst into the

all

Rushing to

city,

doom of all. the window to

quite covered the steps, friends

like a bomb-shell,

in one breath, that the Tiber

inundated the whole

to be the

room

see if the flood

and cut

had

and instant death

had

off all retreat, the

were comforted to observe no signs of water,

ITALY.

163

except that half frozen in the basm of the fountain

above which leaned their favorite old Triton, with

on the end of

icicle

his nose.

"I must go and attend suffer

we may be

;

The poor

to this.

will

able to help," said Livy, forgetting

her bones, and beginning to scramble on her fur boots, as if the safety of the city

The

others followed

suit,

depended on

to ravage the table, they hurried forth to see

Father Tiber was up

to.

her.

and leaving Jokerella

what

most reprehensible

prank, apparently, for the lower parts of the city

were under water, and many of the great already as

streets

of boats as Venice.

full

The Corso was

a deep and rapid stream, and the

shopkeepers were disconsolately paddling about, trying to rescue their property.

"Our

dresses, our beautiful

are they zoni's

now

grand

wailed the

store,

new

girls,

dresses,

where

surveying Maz-

with water Up to the balcony,

where many milliners wrung their hands, lamenting.

The Piazza

del Popolo

was a

stone lions just visible, and

though

was a drug

lake,

still

in the market.

with the four

spouting water,

In at the open

SHAWL-STRAPS.

164

muddy

gate rolled a

stream, bearing hay-stacks,

brushwood, and drowned animals along the Corso. People stood on their balconies wondering what

many

they should do,

breakfastless

;

for

how

could

the trattoria boys safely waft their coffee-pots across Carriages splashed about in

such canals of water.

shallower parts with agitated loads, hurrying to drier quarters;

many were coming down

and crowds stood waiting

into boats,

ladders

their turn

with bundles of valuables in their hands.

The

soldiers

lantly to

were out in

save

life

full force,

working

and property; making

gal-

rafts,

carrying people on their backs, and going through

the inundated streets with boat-loads of food for the hungry, shut up in their ill-provided houses.

Usually at such times the priests did

now they

this

work

stood idly looking on, and saying

;

but

was

a judgment on the people for their treatment of the Pope.

The people were troubled because the

priests refused to

pray for them

but otherwise they

snapped their fingers at the sullen old gentlemen in the Vatican

;

and the

brisk,

brave troops worked for

the city quite as well (the heretics thought better)

than the snuffy

priests.

;

ITALY.

165

In the Ghetto the disaster was truly the flood

was under water in an hour. for here the

Jews

live,

being washed

and,

terrible, for

came so suddenly that the whole quarter

utterly destitute.

The scene was

packed

pitiful

like sardines in a box,

out with

no warning, were

man and woman

In one street a

were seen wading up to their waists in water, pushing an old mattress before them, on which were three

little

children, all they

bad saved.

Later in the day, as boats of provisions came along,

women and

children

dows, crying, "Bread!

swarmed

at the win-

bread!" and their wants

could not be supplied in spite of the care of the city authorities.

One

old

woman wbo had

lost

every thing besought the rescuers to bring her a little

snuff for the love of heaven

characteristic of the race.

to save a sick wife

and

door.

One poor man,

Comedy and tragedy

Outside the

city,

which was very in trying

his little ones in a cart,

upset them, and the babies were

own

;

drowned side

houses were carried

at their

side. off,

people

lost,

and bridges swept away, so sudden and vio-

lent

was the

winds melted

flood.

the

The heavy

rains

and warm

snow on the mountains, and

SHA WL-STRAPS.

166

swelled the river

till

rose higher than at any-

time since 1805.

Many strangers who came mas holidays food,

fire, light,

or supplied

"We

Rome

for the Christ-

sat in their fine apartments, without

company

by hoisting

taken off in boats

till

can hold out some time as

hill,

and Pina has laid in provisions

But

the flood lasts

windows.

stores in at the

on a

for several days.

come

shall

live

want

;

for

the wood-yards are under water, the railroads down,

and the peasants supplies, unless

can't get into the city to bring

the donkeys swim," said

Amanda,

reviewing the situation.

"Never mind; not forget that

it's

exciting;

we engaged

only

we must

go and see the

Roastpig Aurora to-day," answered Matilda, insisted

who

on pronouncing Rospigliosi in that improper

manner. " I like this infinitely better than

picturesque refrigerators, and

it thrills

watch one of those dear, dirty

any of your

me more to women

soldiers save

and babies than to see a dozen Dying Gladiators '

gasping for centuries in immortal marble," added Lavinia,

who had shocked

her

artistic friends

ITALY. sniffing at the

would

famous

statue,

and done with

die

it,

167 and wishing the and not

lie

man

squirming

there*

" it

Come away, Mat

said

all in

she has no soul for

art,

and

vain to try and breathe one into her,"

Amanda, with the calm

pity of one

who had

read up every great picture, studied up every famous statue,

and knew what to admire, when to

thrill,

and just w'here the various emotions should come

So they

left

in.

the outcast perched on a wall, waving

her muff at them, and calling out, " Nater for ever " !

to the great horror of an English lady,

have seen

all

Rome

who would

upset without any unseemly

excitement.

That

night the gas gave out, and mysterious

orders were

ing

till

houses for lamps to be kept burn-

left at

morning.

Thieves abounded, and the ladies

prepared their arms, one

pistol,

one dagger, and a

large umbrella, then slept peacefully, undisturbed

by the commotion chickens,

in the kitchen,

and Pina's

five

where

grandmothers,

cats, live all

lived

together, rent free.

Amanda's

last

prediction was, that they

find themselves gently floating out at the

would

Porta Pia

SHAWL-STRAPS.

168

Mat

about midnight.

gallery in which she

wailed

had hoped

morrow, and Livy indulged the

Pope would get

submerged

for

to ice herself sinful

hope that the

his pontifical petticoats very wet,

drowned, and terribly scared by the

be a

little

flood,

because he spoilt the Christmas

and shut up

not yet.

their

festivities,

the cardinals' red coaches.

all

Next day the water began

made up

on the

to abate,

and people

minds that the end of the world was

Gentlemen paid

stout soldiers, ladies

visits

on the backs of

went shopping

family dinners were handed in

dows without causing any remark,

in boats,

and

two-story winso quickly

people adapt themselves to the inevitable.

Hardly had the watery excitement subsided when a

new event set the city in an uproar. The king was not expected till the

uary

;

tenth of Jan-

but the kind soul could not wait, and, as soon

as the road

was

francs in his hands to see

poor Romans.

he came with 300,000

passable,

what he could do

arrived

at 4 a.m.,

unexpected the news flew through the

for his

and though city,

and a

crowd turned out with torches to escort him to the Quirinal.

ITALY.

169

Again did the explosive Pina burst '

upon her

mistresses with the news, this time in tears of joy, for the people

began to think the King would never

come, and therefore were especially touched by this

prompt

visit in

handsome damsel was a spectacle matic was she as she 'shook her

and cheered

The

the midst of their trouble.

for the

herself,

fist

so dra-

at the Pope,

King, with a ladle in one hand, an

artichoke in the other, her fine eyes flashing, and her

mellow voice trembling, while she talked regardless of the polenta going to destruction in the frying-pan.

On went

the bonnets, out flew the ladies, and

rushed up to the Quirinal where stood a great crowd waiting eagerly for a sight of the King.

There was a great bustle among the

new

splendid creatures in all directions.

Grand

officials,

and

uniforms, ran about in

carriages arrived, bringing the

high and mighty, gaping but loyal, to greet their lord.

General Marmora, a thin, shabby, energetic

man, was everywhere

seemed a

little

hitchy.

;

for the

new

order of things

Dorias and Collonnas glad-

dened plebeian eyes, and the people cheered every thing, from the

Commander-in-Chief to somebody's

breakfast, borne through the

crowd by a

stately

SHAWL-STRAPS.

170

"Jeames"

in livery,

who

graciously acknowledged

the homage.

For one mortal hour our and then

rain,

ladies stood in a pelting

retired, feeling that the sacrifice of

was

their best hats

that could reasonably be

all

They consoled

expected of free-born Americans.

themselves by putting out Ptna's fine Italian banner

(made

in secret,

and kept ready

for her

King, for

theptzdrona waspapattno), and supporting

American

little

much

flags,

by two

the stars and stripes of which

perplexed the boys and donkeys, disporting

themselves in the Piazza Barberini.

But the excitement was girls

so infectious that the

could not resist another run after royalty

while Livy consoled herself with the cat,

fire

;

they took a carriage and chased the King

they caught him at the Capitol.

view of him alone,

and

They had

he came down the long

at the peril of his

life,

so,

and the

steps,

till

a fine

almost

through a mass of

people cheering frantically, and whitening the streets

with waving handkerchiefs.

The driver,

enthusiastic damsels

and hurrahed with

as well they might, for

mounted up beside the

all

their hearts

certainly

and

was a

voices,

sight to

ITALY.

The courage

see.

of the King, in trusting himself in

of enemies, touched the people quite as

a city

full

much

as the kindly

motive that brought him there,

and kept him sacred in their

The

171

eyes.

had a second view of him on the balcony

girls

of the Quirinal; for the populace clamored so for

another sight of "

Re "

that the Pope's best velvet

Emmanuel who stood on

hangings were hastily spread, and Victor

came out and bowed

to his people, "

their heads with joy," as

He was

Amanda

in citizen's dress,

expressed

and looked

it.

like a stout,

brown, soldierly man, not so ugly as the pictures of him, but not an Apollo by any means.

Hating ceremony and splendor, he would not have the fine apartments prepared for him, but chose a plain room, saying, "

you

Keep

the finery for

made

;

all

own

the deso-

eyes the

and then desired the city fathers to

give to the poor the

make

son

I prefer this."

drove through the Ghetto, and

lated parts of the city, to see with his ruin

a splendid

money they had

welcome

set apart to

for him.

only spent one day, and returned to Florence

at night.

All

Rome was

at the station to see

him

SHAWL-STRAPS.

172

with carriages

off: ladies

soldiers,

full

of flowers, troops of

and throngs of poor people blessing

like a saint

sympathy of his had won

for this kingly

;

hir

all hearts.

"When

he does make

his

grand entry, we

will

decorate our balcony, and have our six windows

packed with loyal Yankees who will hurrah their best for

the honest man,' as they call Victor

manuel, and that

high praise for a king."

said the three,

Em-

and while waiting

for the

event

(which did not occur in their day, however), they indulged in

They

all

the pastimes

modern Rome

shivered through endless

afforded.

galleries,

getting

"cricks" in their necks staring at frescos, and injuring their optic nerves poring over pictures so old that often nothing

was

visible

colored leg, an oily face, or the

but a mahogany-

dim

outline of a

green saint in a whirlwind of pink angels.

They grubbed They picnicked

catacombs and came up mouldy.

in the

tomb of Csecelia Metella, flirted

in the palace of the Coesars,

manner, however,

— got

cold

— not in

the classical

by moonlight

in the

Colosseum, and went sketching in the Baths of Caracalla,

which

last

amusement generally ended

in the

ITALY.

173

gentlemen and ladies drawing each other, and returning delighted with the study of art in " dear Rome."

They went

fancy parties where artists got

own

themselves up like their

and

set mediaeval fashions

which

world did not follow.

rest of the social tea

statues

with

and, better

and

was

pictures,

a pity the

They drank much

titled beings, as thick as blackberries,

still,

men and women who had

earned

nobler names for themselves with pencil, pen, or

They paid

chisel.

visits in palaces

where the horses

lived in the basement, rich foreigners on the floor, artists next,

They went horses,

bad

and princes

to the

riding,

hunt and saw scarlet

many

first

in the attic. coats, fine

hounds, and no foxes.

a change they got up game-parties a la Little

Athens in their own small salon, introduced the Potato Pantomime, had charades, and enacted the immortal Jarley's waxworks on one of the Seven Hills.

true

and dip delights

lovely

Yankee breakfast of fishballs, johnny-cake, toast,

was given

its

and

its

being eaten in a

room with reeds and rushes on the pale-green

walls, shell-shaped chairs,

What

in their honor,

much enhanced by

a thing

was

and coral mirror-frames.

consume those

familiar

SHAWI^STRAPS.

174

viands in a famous palace, with Guido's Cenci downstairs,

a great sculptor next door, three lovely boys

as waiters,

and

" Titian T. " to

head the

feast,

and

up with dates from the Nile, and Egyptian

sketches that caused the

company

to vote a speedy

adjournment to the land " of corkendills " and pyramids.

These and many other joys they all

tasted,

and when

upon them they drove on the Cam-

else palled

pagna and were happy. It

sad to be obliged to record that these

quiet drives were the especial delight of the unsocial

Lavinia,

whose

ill-regulated

mind soon wearied of

swell society, classical remains, and artistic revelry.

Ancient

Rome would

she thought; but

have suited her excellently,

modern Rome was such a chaos

of frivolity and fanaticism, poverty and splendor, dirt

and

deviltry,

dead grandeur and living ignorance,

that she felt as

bad

air

shut up in a magnificent tomb, the

of which was poisoning both body and soul.

Her only

consolation was the

seemed to blow over

Rome

Old residents lamented the eants, fetes,

new freedom

like a

that

wholesome wind.

loss of the priestly

and ceremonies; but

this

pag-

republican

;

ITALY. spinster preferred to see troops,

all

Rome

guarded by her own

and governed by her own King, who ordered

streets to

and

175

be cleaned, fountains

good

institutions

made

schools opened,

filled,

than

possible, rather

any amount of Papal purple covering poverty, igno-

and

rance, all

superstition.

Better than the sight of

the red coaches that ever rumbled was the spec-

tacle of

many boys

quitting the Jesuit college

demanding admittance into the sweeter than the music of

all

free schools

the silver trumpets

that ever blew were the voices of

women

and and

;

happy men and

singing once forbidden songs of liberty in

the streets of

Rome.

These sentiments, and others equally unfashionsister MaCampagna to

were only breathed into the ear of

able,

when

tilda

the two retired to the

confide to one another the secrets of their souls

a process necessary about once a week; visiting studios, going to parties, fibs

about every thing they saw,

exist

out

and

was impossible

without finding a vent of some

among

after

for,

telling polite

sort.

Once

the aqueducts, Matilda could freely

own

that she thought genius a rare article in the studios

where she expected to learn so much

;

and Lavinia

;

SHAWL-STRAPS.

176 could

make the awful avowal

that parties at which

the order of performance was, gossip, tea, music

then music,

tea,

and

— were

gossip, all together,

not

Their criticisms on

her idea of intellectual society.

and statues cannot be recorded "without

pictures

covering their humble names with infamy, and the sky did not

upon or the stones

fall

smite these Vandals

why

up and

a mystery to this day.

much

They did enjoy

rise

their

own improper

manner, but poor Amanda's sufferings can better

So when Lavinia,

be imagined than described.

March proposed

early in

to flee to the mountains

before they became quite demoralized, and learned to steal and stab, as well as

and lounge, she

lie

readily assented, and they retired to Albano.

The

decline and

nothing to ciative

this,

women

fall

Roman Empire was

I seen such unappre-

you two," sighed Amanda,

they rolled away from berini, leaving

of the

and never have

Numero Due

Agrippina sobbing at the top of the

and the padrona bobbing

stairs

Piazza Bar-

little

curtsies at

the bottom. "I

and so

sure the Cenci will haunt

will

many

all

days,

other famous things," said Matilda

ITALY.

177

while her eye roved fondly from a very brown Cap-

uchin

monk

to a squad of Bersaglieri trotting

with jaunty cock's feathers dancing in the wind,

muskets gleaming, and trim boots skipping through the "

mud with martial regularity. When I get the contents of my head

sorted out,

I shall doubtless rejoice that I have seen

but just

now all that I can

facts that the

Pope had a

Rome;

clearly recall are the three fit,

our dear

got very tipsy one night, and that

man Romeo

we went to see made it as

the Sistine Chapel the day the eclipse

dark as a pocket. an

air

glad to have seen this

still

more glad

of decision, "I

classical cesspool,

out of

Yes," continued Lavinia, with

and

alive," she

mountains, as

added, sniffing the

to have got air

from the

the odor of sanctity which pervaded

the holy city did not suit her. It

blew great guns up at Albano, and the society

consisted chiefly of donkeys.

But the ladies enjoyed

themselves nevertheless, and

felt

every day; for early hours, aesthetic tea, soon set

much

them up

better

and better

exercise,

and no

after the dissipation

of the winter.

Three pleasing events

diversified their stay. 12

The

SHAWL-STRAPS.

178 first

happened the day

went

after

they could find a

little

The

they arrived.

girls

and to see

forth early to look about them,

apartment where

all

could

be more comfortable than in the breezy rooms at

Following the grassy road that winds

the hotel.

down

the valley below the viaduct, they came to a

lovely garden, and, finding the gate open, went

in.

A queer old villa was perched on the hill above, and a manly form was observed to be leaning from a

balcony as

enjoying the fine view from the height.

" I fancied that house was empty, or

have come now, and

any one comes

and say we

Amanda

lost

as they

our

way

after us

wouldn't

will apologize

going to Ajaccio," said

went calmly forward among the

posy-beds that lay blooming on the It

Never mind: we won't go back

in.

hill-side.

was well they prepared themselves,

for the

manly form suddenly disappeared from the balcony, and a moment afterward came

swiftly

toward them

through the shrubs.

comely young gentleman, who greeted them

with Italian grace, accepted their apology smiling,

and begged them to walk they liked.

in his garden

was always open, he

whenever

said,

and the

179

ITALY.

peasants often used that path, admiring but never

hurting a

Hearing that they were in search

leaf.

of an apartment, he instantly begged them to come

up and look

some rooms in the

Come and behold

of his house.

His father

villa.

was a refugee from France, and desired

to let a part

these delightful

rooms.

So charming was the

interest

damsels that they could not

he took in the errant

resist,

and

after rolling

their eyes at one another to express their enjoy-

ment of the adventure, they graciously followed the handsome youth

With where,

into the villa.

confiding hospitality he took

— into

them every-

room, the kitchen, and

his mother's

In the latter place they found two small

nursery.

boys who bore such a striking resemblance to Napoleon First that the girls spoke of

it,

and were

enraptured at the reply they received. " Truly yes is

we belong to

a Buonaparte,

father

the family. "

"Here's richness and romance!"

Livy say

? "

whispered the

their guide left his father.

them

My mother

Count

girls to

in the salon

"What

will

one another, as

and went to

find

SHAWL-STRAPS.

180

" She will scold us for coming here," said

remembering her own lectures on the

Amanda,

proprieties.

" Yes ; but she will forgive us the minute

Napoleon, for that bad heroes,"

little

man

say

one of her

added Mat, pretending to be admiring the

view, while she privately examined a lady in a bower

below.

A stout, dark lady with all

so strongly

marked

the family traits

no doubt of

that there could be

the young man's assertion.

Presently he came back with an affable old gen-

tleman chance ;

who

evidently had an eye

for, in spite

of his elegance and

asked a great price for his rooms, and untitled stranger should be glad to

the main

affability,

felt

that any

pay well

for the

honor of living under the roof of a Buonaparte.

Amanda

left

the decision to her invisible duenna,

and with a profusion of compliments and thanks, they got away, being gallantly escorted to the gate

by the young flowers,

count,

who

filled

and gazed pensively

their

after

hands with

them, as

found the society of two bright American

girls

very

agreeable after that of his lofty parents, or the peasants of the town.

Home

they ran and bounced in upon Livy, bloom-

ITALY.

181

ing and breathless, to pour out their

an immediate departure to the

tale,

and suggest

blissful spot

where

oounts and crocuses flourished with Italian luxuriance.

But inia

after the first

excitement had subsided, Lav-

put a wet blanket on the entire plan by declaring

would never board with any grasping old

that she patrician,

back on

who would

charge for every bow, and

his ancestors if he

would go and look

was found cheating.

at the place,

but not enter

fall

She it,

nor

be beholden to the resident Apollo for so much as a dandelion.

So the mourning damsels led the

viaduct, through the dirty little town,

its

least attractive side.

were the two

little

eyes, strong chins,

olive-colored visible in the

balcony,

by the the

villa

window

big, black

and dark hair streaked across wide,

foreheads.

vision

of Papa was

garden pruning a vine with gloves on"

and a shabby velvet coat on

connected back.

— oh,

Also, afar off on the

sight to touch a maiden's heart

was the young count gazing

Napoleonic heads with

his aristocratic hands, his highly

over the

grifiln

wistfully

—

toward Albano.

did not see the charmers as they crept

down

the

SHAWL-STRAPS.

182

rough road close to the garden wall, and went sadly

home, along the blooming path to the

Four Thimbles,"

Tomb

of the

Livy irreverently called the

which has an ornament

ruin,

at each of its corners like a

gigantic thimble of stone.

A note in Amanda's most ing the apartment in the closed the door of this peris,

who

elegant French, declin-

name

Madame Duenna,

Eden upon

the wandering

Now

entered never more.

and then

they went clattering by on their donkeys to Lake

Nemi, or some other picturesque

spot,

They saw again the crocus bloom, And, leaning from that lofty room, Sir Launcelot with face of gloom Look down

Up flew

Camelot.

and floated wide, But Livy pinned them to her side, " The curse has come upon us !" cried their veils

The

ladies of Shalott.

9The second adventure befell

Amanda

alone,

and in

this wise.

Going one day to Rome, on business, she found herself shut

in a car with a gorgeous officer

and

meek young man, who read papers all the way. The tall soldier in his gray and silver uniform, with a

ITALY. a furred, frogged,

183

and braided jacket, not to mention

the high boots and spurs, or the becoming cap, was so very polite to the lone lady that she could not

remain dumb without positive rudeness.

So Amanda

conversed in her most charming manner, finding inspiration, doubtless, in the dark eyes

voice of her

handsome

vis-cl-vis, for

and musical

the officers from

Turin are things of beauty and joys for ever to those

who

love to look on manly men.

Among

other things, the two had a

about the Baron Rothschild,

who

little

joke

rode about Albano

on a tiny donkey with two servants behind him, also the Baroness, a painfully plain

ugly

with an

the image of herself.

clog,

When

woman

they arrived at Rome, however, their joke

was turned against them, by the discovery that the

meek man was

the Baron's secretary,

who would To

doubtless repeat their chat at head-quarters. see the like a

handsome man

boy

Amanda

at the fun,

slap his brow,

and then laugh

was worth a longer journey,

thought, as he put her into a carriage, gave

her his best martial salute, and went clanking

own affairs. Amanda returned at 4

away

about his

p.m.,

and her emotions may

SHAWL-STRAPS.

184

be imagined when the dark face of her in at the car if

he might be permitted to enter.

might

and, as no secretary

;

Mars became his

peered

now spoilt

course he

the

tete-d-tete,

delightfully confidential,

and poured

woes into the sympathizing bosom of Amanda.

had been a great

ment was quartered

Mio Dio !

so dull

;

but now,

she permitted

party,

him

affliction to

was

Albano

it life

for

that his regi-

some months.

had already become a

was to be there, make himself known to her what joys were in store for him. The Signo-

burden if

officer

window, and the melodious voice asked

him

the Signorina to

rina loved to ride.

Behold he had superb horses

languishing in the

stables,

dedicated to her use.

that

His fellow

tlemen of good family, brave as

ennui :

henceforth were officers

lions,

were gen-

and dying of

they might be presented to the

ladies, life

would be worth having, and Albano a Paradise, &c.

all this

devotion the prudent

Amanda

with pleasure, but promised nothing

till

listened

Signore

Mars had made the acquaintance of certain American gentlemen and married

ladies,

then

possible to enjoy the delights of

The Colonel vowed he would

would be

which he spoke.

instantly devote him-

ITALY. self to this task,

185

and thus they came to the lonely

station at Albano.

little

Amanda had was not

ordered the carriage to meet her;

and she was forced to wait

but

all

her fellow passengers were gone.

there,

who

gallant officer,

marching to and

came with

decorously remained outside,

fro as if

his horse.

why

to see

on guard,

till

Then he begged

and

Amanda

two miles of

dashed the servant, but his master did not standing in the doorway he declared that he

was too

Again,

the

were due

to be allowed

between her and home.

must remain trains

his servant

the carriage did not come, and

consented, for night was falling, and

mud lay Away

till

All but the

Signorina's protector, for

for hours, the

late for

Amanda

depot

man was

any lady to stay there alone.

gratefully

consented, wondering

what would be the end of her adventure. again, the stately Colonel side, singing as

gone,

resumed

his

And

march out-

he tramped, and evidently enjoying

the escort duty that gave him so good an opportunity of displaying not only his gallantry, but his fine voice

Down

and handsome

figure.

rattled the carriage at last, accompanied, to

SHAWL-STRAPS.

186

Amanda's dismay, by three of the

who had

Colonel's friends,

evidently received a hint of the

had come to have a hand

With much bowing prancing of their to her seat, and

affair,

and

it.

of the gentlemen, and

fine horses,

much

Amanda was handed

went lumbering back to the hotel

with her splendid escort careering about her, to the great edification of the town.

When

the rescued damsel told the tale to her

mates, Matilda tore her hair and lamented that she

had not been

there.

Even the

as either of the girls, for

soldier

was dear to her

When St.

stern Livy

had no

was

as full of interest

any thing

in the shape of a

lecture for the erring lamb, but

heart.

the ladies rode forth next day three elegant

Georges in

full rig

ambled by on their

saluted as these

modern Unas

meek donkeys, — a performance

punctually executed ever afterward whenever the three blue veils appeared.

on before the hotel door and sabres was heard

;

Much curvetting went much clanking of spurs

in the little lane

on to which

the apartment of the ladies looked, and splendid officers

spots

seemed to spring up

where maidens love to

like violets in stroll.

secluded

187

ITALY. It

was

all

very nice

and the

;

to feel that the charms of

Rome, when a sad blow upset air,

were beginning

girls

Albano

rivalled those of

their castles in the

and desolated the knights over the way.

The highly

who were

respectable Americans

the link between the soldiers and

serve

ladies,

decidedly declined the

office,

the

objecting to the

martial gentlemen as being altogether too dangerous to bring into

So the poor dears

the dove-cot.

sighed in vain, and the longing damsels never rode the fine horses that were temptingly paraded before

them on

They

all

occasions.

did their best

;

but

was soon evident

Lavinia that in some unguarded ous

Mat would

away

yield to the spell

for a ride sans

moment the impetuand go gambading

duenna, sans habit, sans pro-

priety, sans every thing.

Amanda

likewise

seemed

losing her head, and permitted the dark-eyed Col-

onel to talk to her

foot

—

when they met only a moment, moment it was when this six-

but what a perilous

;

—

Mars leaned over a green hedge and talked about

the weather in the softest Italian that ever melted a

woman's

heart.

" I'm going to Venice next

week

;

you may

SHAWL-STRAPS.

188

make up your minds

well

you

sure

both be

will

some

rascals if

made

up,

Thus

off to

for I

very

Turin with those hand-

much

stay

I cannot bear

girls.

it,

any longer ;

this awful responsibility

longer.

My mind

and I won't hear a word."

Lavinia, with a stern countenance

romantic old lady

felt

the charm as

much

;

for the

as the girls

and decided that discretion was the better

did,

part of valor for the whole party.

"I should never dare

to go

home and

tell

man

honored parents that Mat had run away with a

handsome

as Jove,

and

as poor as Job.

Amanda's

indignant relatives would rise up and stone

if I

her ^canter into matrimony with the fascinating

let

Colonel,

who may have

Turin, for once,

a wife and ten children in

we know.

all

They must be

character

duenna

torn is

away

lost

for

ever."

Having made up her mind, Livy to

all

appeals,

watched her

How she last

week

and wrote

little

letters,

steeled her heart

packed trunks, and

flock like a vigilant sheep dog.

would ever have got them through that very uncertain,

had not helped

her.

a providential picnic

ITALY.

A fair was held prise-party

189 and a

in the town,

was got up among the

delightful sur-

artists

Rome.

Twenty-five came driving over in a big carriage,

with four gaily decorated horses, of lunch, flutes and horns, and

postilions,

hampers

much

jollity bottled

made

as they drove

for the occasion.

A very festive

spectacle they

through the narrow streets with flowers and stream-

and joking in true

ers in their hats, singing

artistic

style.

They meant as

to have lunched in the open air

was cloudy, decided to spread the

;

Such a delightful revel as followed!

hotel.

scene from the

give some idea of

but,

feast at the

Decameron," modernized, would it

;

for after the

banquet

all

ad-

journed to the gardens of the Doria Villa, and there disported themselves as merrily as if

life

all

were quite forgotten, and death

the lost

arts.

singing,

stories

Flirting

and

the plagues itself

among

and dancing, charades and

statues,

poems and

pictures,

gossip and gambols, absorbed the hours as pleasantly as in the olden time. as

And

the costumes were not

picturesque as those in Vedcler's fine picture, the

ladies

were

as lovely, the

gentlemen as gallant, and

SHAWL-STRAPS.

190 all

much

better behaved than those of Boccaccio's

party.

few drops of rain quenched the fun at

height,

and sent the revellers home

town gaping

horses could take them, leaving the

them, and

after

our ladies

much

its

as fast as four

enlivened by the

delights of the day.

This third and

last

event pleasantly ended their

sojourn at Albano; for a day or two later they vanished, leaving the dear officers disconsolate

the next batch of travelling ladies

till

came to comfort

their despair.

A week

was spent

day from one

in Venice, floating about all

delightful old church to another, or

paying visits to Titians and Tintorettos; buying turtles,

photographs, or Venetian glass

;

little

eating can-

died fruit and seeing the doves fed in the square of

San Marco

;

visiting shops full of dusty antiquities,

or searching the stalls on the Rialto for Moor's-head rings

;

being rowed to the Lido by Giacomo in a

red sash

;

and lulled to sleep

at night

by the songs

of f a chorus that floated under the windows in the

moonlight.

Lavinia never

could

get

used

seeing the

;

ITALY. butcher, the baker, and the in boats.

Matilda was in

to herself,

where she

sat

colours, trying to paint

191

postman go bliss,

for

;

Rome seemed

Amanda haunted a certain shop, man take a reasonable sum for a

return to her.

make

all

surrounded with water-

every thing she saw

here the energy she had lost at

trying to

their rounds

with a gondola

the

very ancient and ugly bit of jewelry, which she called " a sprigalario," for after

self

with a

Of the"

want of a better name

each failure she went off to compose her-

and

visit to

course they

the Doges. all

saw the Bridge of Sighs and

dungeons below, with their many horrors

;

wise a Mass at St. Mark's, where the Patriarch a fat old soul in red

silk,

pocket-handkerchief;

an old

doll,

even to his shoes and holy

and undressing

while a -dozen white-gowned

boys droned up.in a gold

whined on the

was

and the sendee appeared to

consist in six purple priests dressing

him

like-

cock-loft,

and many beggars

dirty floor below.

other travellers eat locusts, I wonder, as ours

did one sunny day, sitting on church steps, and dis-

cover that the food of the Apostle insect

whose "zeeing"

foretells

was not the

hot weather; but

SHAWL-STRAPS.

192

the long, dry pods of the locust-tree, sweet to the taste,

but rather " dry fodder," as the impious Livy

remarked yard of

after

choking herself with a quarter of a

it.

When

the

week was up Mat implored

behind with Angela, the maid, and

left

big

Brio, a

But she was torn

poodle possessed of the devil.

away, and only consoled by the promise of many new gloves, with as many buttons as she pleased, when they got to Munich. " The lakes are the proper entrance to Italy, and Venice a lovely exit. One soon tires of it, and is ready to leave, which

an excellent arrangement,

though I should prefer to depart

some more

cheerful vehicle than a hearse," observed Lavinia, as

they

left

the long, black gondola at the steps of the

station*

" Haven't

you a sigh

for those

tear for Albano, a

pang of regret

Amanda, hoping

to wring one

for

lovely lakes, a

Rome ? "

moan

asked

for Italy

from

the old lady. " like

Not a sigh, not a tear, not them all better the farther I

by the time I am

home

a regret.

I find I

get from them, and

may be

able to say

ITALY. adore them, but

I. doubt

ble Livy, and from that

it,"

193

returned the incorrigi-

moment Amanda regarded

her granny as one dead to

all

antiquity.

the dear delusions of

VI.

LONDON. "

."'ROM

this

moment

mander-in-chief.

I cease to be the com-

Livy adores England, can

speak the language, understands the money, and

knows

all

about London ; so she shall be leader, and

I will repose after

mark, glory,

Amanda

my long

retired

With

labor."

from

office,

this re-

covered

with

and her mates voted to erect a statue in her

honor as a token of their undying gratitude. Lavinia took the lead from the

landed at

St. Catherine's

moment they

Wharf, and though some-

what demoralized by a rough passage of eighteen hours from Antwerp, was equal to the occasion.

She did love England, and thought London the most delightful Its

mud

city in the world,

and fog were dear to her ;

were nectar and ambrosia, slops

and

messes

;

its

next to Boston. its

beef and beer

the

continental

steady-going,

respectable

after

LONDON. citizens

beautiful

" home "

and

her

195

eyes,

and

the

words

comfort " were not an idle mockery

here.

Therefore the old lady joyfully sniffed the smoky air,

gazed with tenderness on the grimy houses,

and

cast herself, metaphorically speaking, into the

arms of a

stout, ruddy-faced porter, as if at last she

had found a man and a

brother.

Nobly did the burly Briton repay her confidence and earn the shilling, which in England makes all things possible. tickets,

bore them to the station, got

checked luggage, put the ladies in a

compartment, gave them

class

tions about the hotel they

were

all

first-

necessary direc-

after,

and when the

bell

rang touched his cap with a smile upon his dear,

red

face,

which caused Lavinia to add a sixpence to

the shilling she gave him with a mental blessing. " This

one

how

cared

truly a decent country. for,

how

civil

everybody

how well how honest,

See is,

manly," began Livy, as she mounted her hobby,

and prepai-ed friend; for

for a canter

Amanda

over the prejudices of her

detested England because she

knew nothing of it. "The cabman cheated

us,

asking double fares,"

SHAWL-STRAPS.

196

the dear

replied

wrapping herself in

girl,

and refusing to admire the

cloaks

"Not

Livy; "the trunks were im-

at all," cried

mense, and you'll find

them everywhere.

shall

It is the

weighed and paying

much time and

many

fog.

have to pay extra

same

for

having them

for the pounds, only this saves

trouble.

Look

handsome

at the

guard in his silver-plated harness.

How much nicer

Frenchman who

than a gabbling

Italian, or a

compliments you one minute and behaves the next faces,

It does

like a brute

my soul good to see the clean, rosy

and hear good English instead of gibberish."

" Never in

life

have I seen such

ing men, only they are

all fair,

which

fine-look-

tall,

isn't

my style,"

observed Matilda, with a secret sigh for the dark-

eyed heroes from Turin.

Thus conversing they soon came

to the

Hotel just at the end of the railway, and without going out of the station found themselves settled in comfortable rooms.

"Regard, ments,

— two

you

please, these toilette

sorts of bath-pan,

water, one of hot,

two big

arrange-

two cans of cold

pitchers,

much

six towels about the size of table-cloths.

soap,

and

I call that

LONDON.

197

an improvement on the continental cup, saucer, and napkin accommodation," said Lavinia, proudly

dis-

playing a wash-stand that looked like a dinner-table laid, for

a dozen, such was the display of glass, china,

and napery.

"The English plied

her

Amanda,

certainly are a clean people," re-

softening a

little

fruitless efforts to find a

as she

remembered

bath-pan in Brittany,

where the people said the drought was caused by the English using so "

much

They need more

any other

water.

appliances for cleanliness than

race, because

they live in such a dirty

country," began Matilda, removing the soot from her face in flakes.

What more

she might have said

unknown

;

for

Livy closed her mouth with a big sponge, and

all

retired to repose after the trials of the past night. "

tian

Now, my

dears,

women

to eat.

you

no veal stewed with of

all

you

raisins,

the weeds that grow.

feel like giants,

cockles of your hearts will

shall

have food

No weak

soup,

for Chris-

nor greasy salad made

Beef that

and beer that ;

fit

no sour wine,

will

make

will cheer the

not to mention cheese which

make you wink, and bread with

little

round

SHA WL-STRAPS.

198

button atop of the loaf like the grand Panjandrum in the old story."

Thus Lavinia

enthusiastically, as she led her flock

of two into

the

Being seated

at a little table

eating-room at luncheon

time.

by one of the great

windows, the old lady continued to sing the praises of Britannia while waiting for the repast. " Isn't this better than a stone-floored cafe, with

nine clocks

all

wrong, seven mirrors

much drapery all who fly about like

lunatics,

Look

der to think of? grave, thick carpet little tables;

all

cracked,

gargons

dirty, a flock of tousled

;

and food which I shudat this lofty

that cheerful coal-fire

room; ;

this

these neat

these large,. clean windows; these quiet,

ministerial waiters,

who seem

terest in your wants,

to take a paternal in-

and best of

all in this

simple,

wholesome, well-cooked food."

Here the

and a

arrival of a glorified beefsteak

shining pint-pot of foaming ale gave an appropriate finish to Livy's lecture.

like a famished

She

fell

woman, and was

meat had vanished, and the

upon her lunch

speechless

till

much

was low

in the

Amanda, who took

to her

ale

pot.

" It

good," admitted

LONDON. beer like a born

199

Englishwoman, and

some of her prejudices with her " It's such a comfort to

calf's brains or

a pig's

know that feet,

swallowed

delicious beef.

not eating

that I can enjoy

with a free mind, and the sight of those two beautiful

old gentlemen gives

an added

who had been watching

Matilda,

relish," said

a pair of hale old

fellows eat their lunch in a solid, leisurely

would have been impossible " It

this

moderation that

jolly,

and long-lived.

don't tear themselves to pieces as

take time for

rest, exercise, food,

sensible people as they are.

as if that

was her mission

A slight

amount of haste

tired

nerves

and cheese

will be advisable, all

restful comforts of yours.

delightfully cosey, but expensive

go into lodgings the better

life.

Granny, unless we intend to spend

on these

do, but

It is like reposing

said Lavinia, eating bread

it,"

and recreation

a feather-bed to live here, and rejoice in

that

their meals, or rush about like run-

steam-engines.

keeps Englishmen so hearty,

They

way

American.

so restful to see people take things calmly,

and not bolt

away

to an

;

our substance This hotel

so the quicker

for us," suggested the

SHAWL-STRAPS.

200 thrifty

Amanda, seeing that Livy was too

infatuated

to care for cost. " I'll

go the

first

thing to-morrow and look at the

rooms Mrs. Blank recommended to

noon we comes

will rest

and write

This after-

us.

letters* unless

some one

to call," said Livy, leading her girls to the

reading-room,

where sleep-inviting

tables

chairs,

supplied with writing materials, and groves of news-

papers wooed the stranger to repose.

Hardly were they

seated, however, than

Jeames

brought in the card of a friend who had been told

when they would meet them.

arrive,

and hastened

How pleasant

one sees in a strange land

Mr.

C.'s

at once to

the

Doubly pleasant was

first

familiar face

because he brought hospitable invitations

from other

friends,

kind welcomes, and tickets to

several of the art exhibitions then open.

Hardly had he gone,

after a half hour's chat,

another card was handed, and the

caused a slight flutter in the dove-cot.

name

than bore

A friend

Miss Livy's, in Boston, had sent orders to his brother in

London

to devote himself to the wandering ladies

when they came.

man

didn't care to

They had never met; have

his quiet

the poor

invaded by strange

LONDON. women, and task

to do the honors of

201

London

no small

yet this heroic gentleman obeyed orders, with-

;

out a murmur;

and, leaving his artistic seclusion,

shouldered his burden with the silent courage of a Spartan.

grave, dark,

little

man, with

fine

eyes, quiet

manners, and a straight-forward

way with him

suited blunt Livy excellently.

How

face the three

unknown women

that

he dared to

so calmly, listen to

their impossible suggestions so politely,

and

offer

himself as a slave so cheerfully, will for ever remain

a mystery to those grateful souls.

His

first

service

was

to pack

them

into a cab

and

bear them safely to the bankers for letters and

money and ;

servitude,

this

he followed up by several weeks of

which must have been worse than Egyptian

bondage.

Two more

large ladies joined the party after they

were settled in lodgings at Kensington; daunted by the

fact, this long-suffering

man

but, un-

escorted

the whole five to galleries and theatres, trips into

the city, and picnics in the country ; went shopping

with them, lugged parcels, ran errands, paid

and was

in fact the sheet-anchor of the

bills,

whole party.

SHAWL-STRAPS.

202

Imagine the emotions of one shy man when called

upon

to lead a flock of

everywhere

;

to have

somewhat imposing

two cabs

full

all

ladies

occasions,

to be obliged to support the invalids, to follow the caprices of the giddy, to gratify the

and to hear" the gabble of the whole

curious,

day

;

for

Man was

weak

a coward compared to

he not only gave his days, but his evenings

also, joining in endless

five

after day.

Burger's Brave

him

demands of the

tea,

and

games of whist, drinking much any amount of twaddle

listening to

all subjects.

The

society

enjoy, being

was not such

her

One

wore a bright green

scarlet cherries

all subjects,

men

bobbing on her brow.

sister

incoherent was

of them was immensely

cap, with half a pint of

She talked

and handed round an album

own poems on

have been a

intelligent

composed of two Egyptian boys and

three fussy old ladies. stout,

all

occasions.

full

The second must

of " Mr. T.'s Aunt," so grim and

she.

Sitting in

the corner, she

stared at the world around her with an utterly expressionless countenance,

and when

least

broke out with some startling remark, such

expected as,

" If

LONDON. that fence

had been painted green we should get to

heaven sooner," or

was

203

good

Before I had

as anybody's, but

a clergyman, and took

fits

my memory

daughter married

with her."

The third antiquity was the hostess, a buxom much given to gay attire and reminiscences of

lady,

past glory, " Before

The

life."

'usband went into public

strangers innocently supposed the de-

parted Mr. K. to have been an M.P. at

and

least,

were rather taken aback on learning that he had been a pawnbroker.

The Egyptian youths were handsome, dark

lads,

with melodious voices, lustrous eyes, and such fiery

tempers that one never kuew whether they were going to pass the bread or stab one with the carvingknife.

a slight mitigation of this slow society, the

Russian froin Pension Paradis appeared with his broadcloth more resplendent than ever.

had seen him

away, and he was

Rome now

;

The

ladies

but the fever scared him

fleeing

from another lodging

house, where the hostess evidently intended to marry

him

to her daughter, in the

In this varied

MacStinger

circle did the

fashion.

devoted being afore-

SHAWL-STRAPS.

204

mentioned pass many hours labor was happily over, and

him

the day's hard

after

when any one

for leading the life of a galley-slave,

—

anguish and answered with a smile, "

My brother told me

obey Tom.

That

last fib

to do

fact, I find

it,

and

I rather like

commands

duty, heavy as dicted,

to the

was.

Though

who obeyed

fra-

and tried to love

his

as has

been sometimes pre-

to the

among

noblest

the piles,

there

first,

and

Americans went from Windsor Castle

Tower

Madame

might

prince and peer and poet rare

sight-seeing fever raged fiercely at

the flock of

—

man who perished Was faithful W. N s.

The

dis-

letter,

If,

"Were sunk

never

it."

England had gone under just then,

truly have been said,

The

was truly sublime, and the name of

Casabianca pales before that of one ternal

pitied

he hid his

of London, from Westminster

Taussaud's

Waxwork Show

that appalled the natives.

They would

Abbey

with a vigor visit

two or

three galleries in the morning, lunch at Dolly's (the dark, little chop-house, which Johnson, Goldsmith, and

the other worthies used to frequent in the good old

LONDON. times), go to

Richmond

and

the Star

" white baits

in the afternoon

Garter, or

theatre, getting

and dine

Greenwich and eat

the Russian called that cele-

fish," as

brated dish, and

205

finish

home

off*

the

evening at some

at midnight, in a procession

of two cabs and a hansom.

When

the

first

excitement was over, Lavinia and

Matilda took a turn at society, having friends in

Amanda

London.

sufficiently to

could not conquer her prejudices

accompany them, and,

falling

the climate as her excuse, stayed at

back on

home and im-

proved her mind.

feel

now

tagenet, going to a ball at

know

agrees with

rolled

that I

away

was made

up before

Roman

Buckingham

Palace.

to sit in the lap of luxury

so well," said Matilda, as the

Aubrey House

lamps, glass, and satin. piled

You are the am Lady Maud Plan-

girls in novels.

Duchess of Devonshire and

Her long blue

her, the light flashed

earrings, her curls

turesque array, and

two

in a brougham, all train lay

on her best

were in their most

pic-

— crowning joy of — creamall

colored gloves, with six buttons, covered her arms,

and

filled

her soul with happiness, because they were

— SHA WL-STRA PS.

206 so elegant

and

cost so

little,

being bought in

Rome

just after the flood.

Dowager Livy responded gravely from the depths of her silver-gray "

enlivened with pink azaleas,

silk,

thank your

child,

you are a

stars that

free-

born Yankee, and have no great name or state to

Buckingham Palace

keep up.

I shouldn't

mind

calling

Coburg, whichever

but I

is,

all

very well, and

on Mrs. Guelph, or Saxe

much

prefer to be

going to the house of a Radical M.P., who a hand to teresting is

all

good works.

woman

Mrs. T.

her a model Englishwoman, accomplished

ger,

;

full

Her house

lending