44 | The Jewish Press | September 14, 2012
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Omaha restaurant bucket list by OLIVER B. POLLAK Benson’s Backshelf Books on Maple Street in late 2009 had Jim Delmont’s Midlands Restaurant Reviews (1993). Two dollars for a local book I had never heard of. In midSeptember 2010, “For Sale” hung on the door. Over the years the Omaha WorldHerald has employed several food reviewers including Sarah Casey Newman, Peter Citron, Jim Delmont, Jeff Bahr, John Keenan, Nichole Aksamit, and since her departure early this year, at least seven journalists have tackled this task. Peter Citron published Peter Citron’s Insider’s Guide to Omaha Restaurants in 1974. It contained 96 Omaha restaurants with Health Department ratings and “Insider’s tips.” Only 21 (22%) of the eateries
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New Year
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are still in existence. Citron noted the establishments that took Carte Blanche and Diner’s Club, which no longer exist. Jim Delmont reprinted 76 reviews, most of them independents, appearing since 1986. My wife Karen and I dined at 61. Our sons worked, Noah worked at Zio’s Pizza (then in Baker’s Square), Aaron at Noah’s (in Miracle Hills, now Clancy’s). In 1993 Omaha had almost 500 restaurants, and 30 chains, accounting for 300 locations. Burger King had 24 sites, Little King 23, Subway 22, Pizza Hut 20, McDonalds 19, Godfather’s 17, Arby’s 15, Taco Bell and Runza 14, KFC 13, Hardee’s 11, and Wendy’s had 10. Thirty-five (46%) of the seventy-six restaurants no longer exist. Eleven restaurants were on Pacific Street, five closed: Angie’s Steak House, Blue Fox, Garden Café, L&N Seafood, and Pacific Kitchen and Grill. Steak houses, Italian, Chinese, Mexican, and Indian food accounted for 30 restaurants. No Thai, Vietnamese, or sushi. Caribbean, Eritrean, Ethiopian, Burmese, Moroccan, Nigerian, Somalian and Sudanese were unimagined in the early 1990s. Fond memories include the short-lived Bistro in the Market in the National Building (past home of the National Printing Company, publisher of the Czech paper Hospodar) where Preston Love occasionally played. Michelin rated Café de Paris hosted out-of-town guests and special “aughty” numbered birthdays and anniversaries. The venerable South Omaha Old Vienna Café closed (now a Hispanic internet office), moved into Claudia’s location at 120th and Center, and reemerged as Bistro 120. Two were bulldozed. Kohl’s and Quick Trip gas station replaced Ross’ Steakhouse and Salvatore’s. Zio’s Pizza and Greek Islands changed locations. Raphael’s moved from a Leavenworth hole in the wall (now occupied by a tanning salon) to 13th Street and closed. Breadwinners moved from Countryside to Regency Court and is now Kobe Steak House. Jones Street Brewery, bearing a street as a name, does not assure survival. Some locations remained stable but changed ownership and names. In the Old Market Chez Chong became Omaha Prime. Butsy le Doux’s became Twisted Fork. V. Mertz (changed ownership in early 2011). Angie’s is now Lucky’s. Navarette and Neon Goose, next door to each other, are now
Bones and The Lab. Café de Paris (ironically still in the 2010-11 Dex Yellow Pages), vacant for four years now, hosts Q Consumables. La Strada 72 became Spezia, Noah’s became Clancy’s Pub. L&N Seafood subsequently housed Mozarellas, L&N again, Pacific Kitchen and Grill, California Pizza Kitchen, and is now Ingredient’s second location. The Garden Café in Old Market and One Pacific Place no longer exist, Wheatfields occupies the Pacific location. The Blue Fox became Yo Yo’s, and is now Mics Karaoke Bar. Spanna became Café di Coppia when it left Regency, and now is AC’s Tex Mex. Luigi’s is Hu Hot Mongolian Barbeque, Jonesy’s Dinner Den is Mexi Taco, Joey D’s is Arthurs that moved from Dodge as Methodist expanded. Kyoto Restaurant is Thai Spice. C h a m p p s Americana in Oakview Mall with great waffle fries and penne pasta, morphed into a miniature golf course, now stands empty. The Imperial Palace, in Old Mill, a beautiful built for the purpose Chinese restaurant, complete with a koi pond with a red arch bridge, became Nico. The shortlived Pacific Pasta and Pizza, with its trendy wood fired oven, became Ann Taylors, is now occupied by Trader Joe’s. Several had café in their name: Caffé Rose, Café di Coppia, Bohemian Café opened in 1924 (King Fong’s established in 1921 is Omaha’s oldest eatery), French Café, Garden Café, Hong Kong Café, Johnny’s Café (since 1922), and Old Vienna Café. Several were prefixed by “La:” La Casa Pizzaria, La Fonda (which became Julio’s), and La Strada 72 (which became Spezias). Six had “house” in their name: Austin’s Steak House, Cascio’s Steak House, Chelsea House, Empanada House, Gorat’s Steak House, House of Hunan, and Panda House. Fourteen restaurants had male surnames (Austin, Joey, Luigi, and Scott’s are gone), three had female names (Angie’s, now Lucky’s, and Claudia’s are no longer). Almost all family-named restaurants survived (Caniglia, Cascio, Gorat, McKenna). Single name restaurants Aquarium, Navarettes, Spanna closed, Jaipur, Julios, Romeo’s remain, and some Chili’s survive, some do not. Hotel restaurants, Regency Marriott’s Chardonnay, Maxine’s at the top of the Red Lion (Hilton and DoubleTree), and Chelsea House in the Carlisle Hotel, closed. Rent, payroll, and overheads are ongoing challenges. According to Mercantile Systems, “Starting and running a business is an act of extreme optimism.” Dunn and Bradstreet state restaurants have a 20% chance of surviving two years. An Ohio State University study suggests that 26% close in the first year, 19% in the second year and 14% in the third year. Consistent quality may overcome a marginal location. A friend opined, Omaha diners are getting more sophisticated, the city does not long suffer subpar food. Delmont’s December 1991 Market Basket review noted parenthetically, “(there is also a non-smoking room).” How times have changed. During September, restaurants and media coverage were in flux. Google’s acquisition of Zagat will challenge social media Urban Spoon and Yelp. The World-Herald hired Sarah Baker Hansen as a food writer. Senor Matias at 90th closed after 32 years at 90th and Center. Gorat’s opening in 1944, has benefitted from Warren Buffett’s favor. The owners are selling it for $1.3 million. A 1947 menu is available on eBay for around $120.