Food Magazine - 2021

Page 1

4 February 2021



For all your catering needs now and in the future

For orders and details Jonathan 07476 217 948 or jonathan@jasmine–

KINGS (AND QUEENS) From well-established enterprises to micro businesses launched in lockdown, baking has never been bigger. Louisa Walters tastes all LOLA’S AND CUPCAKES go together like Valentine’s Day and… well, cupcakes! Lola’s has been synonymous with beautifully decorated, sweet-flavoured, mouthwatering baked treats since it was founded in 2006. Back in pre-pandemic days, even walking into a Lola’s store or past a Lola’s concession stand was a treat as there was so much prettiness to look at and sometimes even tasters on offer of the newest flavours. Vanilla and chocolate unicorn cupcakes, anyone? The first concession was in Selfridges and then a flagship store opened in Mayfair.

The brand has now grown to 20 stores and concessions, plus a number of collection lockers where people can pick up their orders. Since the first lockdown last March, there has been a grocery department within Lola’s to give people access to superb quality fresh fruit and vegetables, delivered. Meanwhile, Lola’s baked goodies are being delivered seven days a week, while several stores remain open for people to browse goodies and collect orders, including Brent Cross, Selfridges Foodhall and the Lola’s Bakery in West Hampstead. “It’s a given that people will be looking for fun things to do to mark Valentine’s Day, and while this can be a challenge even in normal times, the strict lockdown could mean trouble in paradise!” says head of marketing

Adam Doffman. “The amazing team has developed and expanded our range to reflect couples’ new situations – they will either be staying in together to celebrate or connecting from different households using technology.” In addition to the iconic cupcakes and brownies, Lola’s has added cupcake and cake-decorating kits and a Valentine’s hamper to the range, both with UK-wide delivery. “We hope all the lovebirds out there enjoy our new range and, if you’re single, what better way to celebrate this than with a fresh and delicious Lola’s?” says Adam. The Lola’s Valentine’s range also features heartshaped Belgian chocolate cookies and brownies, expertly arranged flowers, and gorgeous Valentinethemed layer cakes and vegan layer cakes.

Nothing says I love you like a brownie

Create your own message cakes FOOD TO YOUR TABLE 3

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There has been an explosion of home bakers during the year of lockdown – and some have managed to turn what was once just a hobby into a lucrative business MATTY CAPLIN started his baking life five years ago aged 16 at Karma Bread in Hampstead. He left to start up on his own last March and sells under He specialises in chocolate tea cakes – large chocolates filled with various flavour marshmallow fluffs on a biscuit base – plus a wide variety of cookies, brownies and cakes. Bestselling products: Lotus white chocolate tea cake – a white chocolate Lotus chocolate shell, vanilla marshmallow fluff, liquid Biscoff and a Lotus biscuit base – and Kinder Bueno stuffed cookie, which is filled with a white chocolate hazelnut crème and topped with Kinder! Best thing about being a baker: Being

TALYA MASHER is a junior doctor on maternity leave. With a newborn baby, two other kids, home-schooling and piles of washing, she needed an outlet during lockdown. She was drawn to the scientific nature of sourdough and started experimenting. As @doctor.sourdough, she now bakes kosher breads, focaccias, crackers, pizzas, cinnamon buns, babkas, pancakes and banana loaves. Bestselling products: Raisin and walnut loaf, rosemary and garlic focaccia, chocolate babka and cinnamon buns. Best thing about being a baker: I love being in charge of my own baking schedule compared to relentless hospital shifts. Proudest moment: I made a loaf with

TAMSIN SACKS started baking for friends and family during the first lockdown and by lockdown #3 had given up uni to concentrate on this full-time She makes celebration cakes, cookies, brownies, and desserts. Bestselling products: Treat boxes and cupcakes for sending to friends and family. People love my lemon meringue and chocolate brownie cupcakes. Best thing about being a baker: You never give anybody a cake to make them sad. I love seeing people’s reactions. Proudest moment: Getting to a point where I could turn Tamo’s


creative – and getting to eat my bakes every day! Proudest moment: Fulfilling my Chanukah and Christmas orders. During the final week of December, I baked 800 tea cakes and more than 1,000 cookies. I also baked and delivered mince pies to the elderly who were spending Christmas alone, and seeing their faces light up really warmed my heart! Biggest baking disaster: Nothing yet! I live in fear of dropping a tray of tea cakes. Baking inspiration: Abigail at ‘Le Choux’ who recently opened her own shop. I am

edible flowers (pictured above) that was shared by many sourdough bloggers and baking accounts on Instagram. But even more satisfying is the constant support and

Treats into my full-time job not just a hobby. Biggest baking disaster: I made a

also inspired by Edd Kimber, also known as The Boy Who Bakes. He won the first ever season of the Great British Bake Off. It’s the end of a busy day – you’ve hung up your apron and you sit down to watch TV... what do you eat? Give me a platter of sushi and sashimi (with a side of cookies) and I will be a very happy boy!

feedback from my customers. There has been a rush in the past few weeks to stock freezers in preparation of my return to real doctoring! Biggest baking disaster: During the summer heatwave, every loaf was coming out flat. It was a steep learning curve to discover how sourdough is so dependent on variables such as temperature. Baking Inspiration: My mum, who has taught me everything I know in the kitchen (and started her own Instagram account, @on.the.kob, during lockdown). It’s the end of a busy day – you’ve hung up your apron and you sit down to watch TV… what do you eat? I can never resist a sourdough cheese toastie.

birthday cake for my best friend and, as I was taking it out the car, I dropped it... I was mortified. Baking inspiration? Matt Adlard and Georgia Green (Georgia’s Cakes). Their YouTube tutorials helped me so much (and still do). It’s the end of a busy day – you’ve hung up your apron and you sit down to watch TV… what do you eat? I’m absolutely obsessed with Yarden’s schnitzels. My dad calls me Shnitz.

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BUBBALE Available for UK wide postal delivery, perfect for surprising that special someone this Valentine’s Day! 6 indulgent handmade brownies, all made fresh everyday in our London bakery and best of all, they fit straight through the letterbox!

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Whilst Lola’s products are suitable for Vegetarians, our products are not strictly defined as Kosher




KOSHER BEN TENENBLAT BEN TENENBLAT’S INITIAL REACTION WAS TO RIDE OUT THE LOCKDOWN. Forty-eight hours later, a team meeting made him realise they had to adapt now or run the risk of losing a business that has built up a fantastic reputation. Given that people’s Passover holidays were not going to happen, they decided to kosher the kitchens for Pesach for the first time and offer a takeaway service. Ben also offered KLP food to frontline NHS workers to take into hospital to eat on their shift, totally free of charge. It was rushed, but it worked well. After the holiday, they built a website offering fresh produce, fish, meat, baked goods and cooked meals. They are continually adapting and changing the menus, but beef Wellington has become a firm favourite, selling 100 a week, so it’s a mainstay. Lamb tagine, fish pie and salt beef hash are popular and there’s a range of arancini and spring rolls. Ben also purchased an American stainless-steel airstream and set up a company called CRAVE,, which offers gourmet street food from the trailer and on Deliveroo. “I knew I needed to keep the brand alive and keep my team working. When we come out of this, I will need them as strong as ever,” says Ben. or 020 8205 0463

FEAST LAST MARCH, FEAST HAD MORE THAN 100 BOOKINGS in the diary for the year ahead and was just a few weeks away from catering Pesach in Crete for 600 guests at a five-star resort. When lockdown hit, founder Ed Shaerf was confident that it would be temporary and therefore didn’t think about adapting. Four weeks later, he changed his mind. Feast decided to offer home delivery every Friday and Sunday and buy a food truck to hit the road. The company then expanded into simcha boxes delivered to hundreds of guests. “We had to learn quickly. We kept the packaging basic to allow us to provide large amounts of high-quality food without wasting money on pretty boxes. One issue in the first few weeks was estimating the amount of time it takes to deliver. When you start getting phone calls an hour before Shabbat asking where the delivery is, you know you’re cutting it fine.” Ed feels that home delivery has become a saturated market and now offers bespoke home delivery ranging from 10-course tasting menus to a special meal for a wedding proposal. This month, Feast launches Social Square, a dark kitchen delivering food all over north London. On the menu is choripan, a homemade chorizo in a sub roll with chimichurri and salsa fresca – a dish served outside every football stadium in Mexico and Argentina. Ed’s favourite is the sous vide turkey, cranberry slaw, crispy chicken skin in a challah roll. There’s also Feast’s famous burger and bbq meatloaf sliders topped with paprika crispy onions and jalapeno mayo. “The menu is so diverse that there is something for everyone, most of which has never been offered in a kosher form,” says Ed., 0161 834 8844 8 FOOD TO YOUR TABLE

JASMINE CATERING JONATHAN ROBINSON AT JASMINE CATERING is not ashamed to admit that his first thought when we went into lockdown last March was ‘HELP!’ With weddings, barmitzvahs, celebrations and charity events cancelled at a moment’s notice, the kosher catering industry was facing, in the words of that song in Les Mis, empty chairs and empty tables – for many months to come. Jonathan’s sister-in-law in America gave him the idea of delivering Seder in a Box and, having done Pesach home delivery on a small scale for the past few years, he quickly realised there was an opportunity out there and that people still needed food. “The challenge was to work out how to deliver food that looks appetising in a box and tastes good after travelling,” he says. Within a week, Jonathan had a full delivery service set up. Jasmine’s offering of Shabbat meals, meals for special occasions and families celebrating bar and batmitzvot has been in big demand. The Shabbat set menu, duck, asado ribs and slow-cooked lamb fillets are the most popular items. Salt beef boxes and shawarma boxes are also great options. Earlier this month, they did a one-night Indian pop-up. Portion sizes are good, the food comes nicely packaged, it looks appetising and it all reheats very easily., 07476 217948

BLUE GOOSE DAVID SCOTT AT BLUE GOOSE (unsupervised) really thought he’d have to hang up his apron last year. He took off a few weeks to think about the next step and then drew up plans to offer people something that would remain relevant for the next year with the ability to freshen things up when needed. “If Blue Goose were to stop trading for too long, I would have been in danger of losing my reputation and would have had to start from scratch,” says David. “Furloughing myself was not the solution – I needed to get back in the kitchen and get the company active. Demand has never been higher for home delivered food – I have never experienced such a consistent flow of enquiries.” David says that ensuring the food can be eaten as fresh as possible and with all the right textures and flavours intact is key. “Delivering hot food was a big no-no, as the food suffers as soon as the container lid is shut. I offer freshly-cooked food that is quickly chilled and packaged properly, with heating instructions so the dish can be brought back to life and eaten at its best.” The à la carte menu has an assortment of meats, fish, salads, sides and desserts. The three-course set menus are ideal for special occasions and for those who want more of a restaurant experience in their home. The fine dining menu is by far the most popular and contains David’s signature Beef Wellington, served with fondant potatoes, grilled asparagus, glazed carrots and a red wine sauce. Sweet and sticky apple tarte tatin is the ultimate dream dessert. Wild mushroom and truffle arancini with a truffle mayo are often requested., 07717 748107

Wine recommendations from Kedem Benjamin Gestetner at Kedem suggests enhancing your at-home dining experience with kosher wine. Château Signac, Domaine Ternynck Pinot Noir or Herzog Lineage Pinot Noir would go beautifully with Beef Wellington and other heavier meat dishes. For the spicier stuff, such as asado ribs or choripan, try a Matar Stratus, Alexander Cabernet Franc or Tishbi Estate Single Vineyard Malbec. Goose Bay Sauvignon Blanc, J Villebois Pouilly Fumé or Herzog Special Reserve Russian River Chardonnay are the perfect accompaniment to fish dishes, while with a salt beef nosh-up, you need Segal’s Fusion Red, Five Stones DvsG Red or Terra Di Seta Chianti. FOOD TO YOUR TABLE 9




HETHER YOU’RE A GRAPE NOVICE or a sommelier in the making, Kedem’s Benjamin Gestetner is the man you need beside you when you order wine. Particularly kosher wine, which has got better and better, but still requires some explaining to be fully appreciated. As part of the Royal Wine Corp, which was owned and operated by the Herzog family, whose winemaking roots date back to 19th century Czechoslovakia, Kedem imports from almost every wine producing region of country across the globe – from Bordeaux to Napa, from New Zealand to Israel – and all these quality wines happen to be kosher. The same is true of the spirits and liquors they supply to supermarkets, independents, caterers and when they are open, restaurants. Finnish vodka, Single Malt Scotch, brandies – all world class and KOSHER. With Purim approaching, numerous Sabbaths and so many evenings at home, there are more than enough reasons to sample Israel’s Tishbi Estate Malbec 2014, with its notes of oak, plums, black pepper, coffee and liquorice, or the Château Signac Pliocène with its beautiful colour, fruit and floral aromas. As producer of the feisty grape we enjoy as children, Kedem sets the tone for our future enjoyment of wine and everyone should peruse to see how much more there is to enjoy now we are all grown-up.

TWIST & SHOUT IT’S NO COINCIDENCE that the name of the family-run cocktail business is a dance, as that’s what you’ll be doing once you sample its wares. Created and launched at a time when we could all do with a Daquiri or three, the ready to go high end ‘Twist’ cocktails are available in bottles, tubes and evenutually kegs (with a built-in tap) when parties happen. Moshe Goldsobel and his wife Charlotte are the brains behind the brand, although it was Moshe, a Hatton Garden jeweller, who needed to do more than just mind their two young children when the capital shut down. Conveniently, the cocktails are certified kosher, which has boosted the orders for coffee, gin and cranberry Twist cocktails now being served at family-only bar/bat mitzvahs. There are other reasons to buy the cute gift packages filled with little bottles for Zoom toasts, so hurry up and think of one. 07915 735184. 735184


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Cacao Catering

The one light in the lockdown tunnel is the ever-increasing number of options for home delivery and takeaway. Whether you want to do a little prepping and heating up, eat straight out of the box or delve into a box of ingredients and follow an online cookery class, there is no end of choices. There are plenty of kosher options, too. By Louisa Walters


Cacao Catering


Kushan Marthelis is to home delivery what silver service is to restaurants. Charming, attentive, courteous and polished, with a uniquely personal touch. From the moment you make your enquiry until the minute your food arrives, Kushan is a delight to deal with and, when you sit down to enjoy your meal, oh my… a feast for the eyes, a treat for the tastebuds and worthy of a review on The Catering Club every single time. Having worked in hotels, restaurants and as a caterer for many years, Kushan set up Cacao Catering last year and really got going in the summer with a barbecue offering. This involved all different marinated meat and fish plus wonderful salads and it was a sell-out every week. Since then, Borehamwood-based Kushan has massively increased the options but – get this – every single meal

MyKoCo is the brilliant answer to kosher ready meals - delivered. With a background in catering, the team behind this young, fresh, innovative brand has put together a huge range of dishes, including staples such as chicken soup, chicken pie and salt beef, plus more exotic options such as hoisin duck, beef madras and miso-braised lamb shanks. There are fresh salads, too. Among the delicious desserts is everyone’s favourite - sticky toffee pudding. The team can also make bespoke dishes on request.

is bespoke. He likes to get to know his clients and what they enjoy eating so he and his team can create a meal just for them. That said, for Valentine’s Day, he has created a general menu to enable more people to have the chance to order. This features chicken liver parfait, potato blini with smoked salmon and champagne hollandaise, Sicilian cod with globe artichoke, soy braised beef with shitake mushrooms and caramelised baby onion, blackened crispy tofu with sesame aubergine, raspberry white chocolate dome or soft dark chocolate cake with salted caramel and champagne strawberry compote. There is also a Japanese menu (Kushan has a Japanese chef and his sushi platters are very popular). “Catering is my baby,” says Kushan, “but my dream is to open a restaurant.” Watch this space.


Maison Patron is a lovely little French bistro in Kentish Town (with a new branch in Highbury). It’s a simple, rustic place with simple, rustic food and it will always hold a place in my heart as the last place where I ate out ‘normally’, ie before lockdown #1. It is now delivering to home and, last weekend, we enjoyed French onion soup, steak tartare, confit duck with dauphinois potatoes, padron peppers, rich, velvety chocolate mousse and a grill-the-top-yourself crème brûlée. There’s a tiny bit of home prep, but this feels much more like a restaurant meal at home than a takeaway.

Maison Patron FOOD TO YOUR TABLE 13


Chick P



The lunchtime rush for Chick P falafels is not forgotten in Moorgate. Covid might have closed the doors to culinary choices in the city, but the bankers and traders who continue to work there can’t and won’t forget the sensational street food prepared by Ashley Burns. Flavoursome, but not too herby as falafels can be, Ashley has taken the best of what Israel does to create patties of perfection in pitta, which are now delivered to your home The Barnetbased vendor has added (kosher) chicken schnitzel to his menu and he also does desserts, but doesn’t mix milk and meat, so you can go vegan and enjoy the afters or save them for later. Only a day’s notice is required for delivery from Friday to Sunday and, now that Ashley is mobile he can do private parties too, once they’re permitted.

Sababa in Borehamwood is the kosher milky sister restaurant to meaty Balagan a few doors down, and the new baby of Hannan (formerly of Pizoyo). With pizzas, pastas, salads, fish dishes and lots of desserts available for delivery and collection, Sababa is also running a street food stand outside the restaurant serving up soup, pizza dough balls, crepes and waffles every Sunday and occasionally midweek (weather permitting). A great addition to the area and to your daily walk.



If I’m going to invest a gazillion calories in a pizza, it’s got to be a really good one. Laden with toppings such as fior di latte,, rocket, artichokes, sunblushed tomatoes, porcini mushrooms and truffle, the small but superb range at The Rising Sun in Mill Hill is delicious and has that perfect combination of crispy and chewy in the crust, which is what differentiates a good pizza from a great pizza. They come in a brilliantly designed bag – order one and you’ll see what I mean.



Yamiko Japanese home delivery (kosher) comes from the team behind MyKoCo. Head chef Marco earned his stripes at Nobu and the menu features a great selection of nigiri, hand rolls, maki, sashimi and inside-out rolls, plus poke bowls, fish, chicken and beef dishes. I’ve heard good things about the miso chicken skewers, the sesame seared salmon nigiri, and the crispy duck with cucumber and hoisin sauce insideout-roll. Only available on Deliveroo. 14 FOOD TO YOUR TABLE


Even in lockdown there’s no chance of kosher foodies going hungry in Golders Green. SOYO Diner ( has a meal deal for two that includes two burgers, fries and wings for £25, while SOYO Café ( a couple of doors down has a daily colourful crepe stand and serves the best hot chocolate. Pita (www.pita. london) remains the best place for shawarma and Hot Cut, ( is doing a £10 lunch deal - a toastie, chips and drinks. Pizaza (also in Edgware and Hendon) has added a jumbo 18-inch pizza to the menu. SOYO Café



Salt Shed street food pop-up is operating out of Mill & Brew in Mill Hill (from Wednesday to Sunday). It’s a meat lover’s miracle of pastrami and burgers with sides including skin-on fries and padron peppers. The pastrami is superb. Thick-cut smoked brisket, caramelised on the outside and tender on the inside with just the right level of saltiness and a honey mustard sauce to finish it off to perfection. The pastrami burger - a beef patty topped with smoked brisket, onions and pickles in a sesame bun - is comfort food at its best and all the sides are terrific. Order on Deliveroo or pick it up and save 15%.


Bhageecha means ‘garden’ in Hindi, and Mishal, who together with her husband Sundeep, owns the new restaurant of this name in Elstree (on the former site of The Fishery), vividly remembers fragrant aromas and laughter filling the air at garden parties as her father cooked in huge pots over a coal stove. With an innate understanding of the combination of food and celebration, Sundeep built a successful banqueting business in north-west London. Now the couple have brought their expertise to this well-known venue and given it a whole new lease of life. Until they can open the doors to show you the beautiful new interior, they are delivering their superb north Indian dishes to customers within a three-mile radius or you can collect. I’m hearing great things about the marinated and charcoal-cooked tandoori broccoli, chef’s speciality nihari lamb shank in a special curry sauce, malai kofta (paneer and potato balls in a thick cashew gravy) and macchi masala (tilapia in a thick masala gravy). Order direct or on Uber Eats.

SOYO Diner


Delicatessen(kosher), in Hampstead, has a great menu that includes huge burgers and there is also a walk-in falafel stand. www.delicatessen. company


Reubens (kosher) in Baker Street has added loads of new takeout dishes including a brunch burger, salt beef croquettes and a sloppy joe ciabatta. Staples you know and love are all there too. www.reubens


Kipferl is a little Austrian gem of a restaurant in Camden Passage. In ‘normal’ times, it’s a place to get your fix of Wiener schnitzel or beef goulash but, during lockdown, a ray of sunshine has been its Sachertorte, an intensely rich, fluffy chocolate cake with a layer of apricot jam and a personalised message on top, which is available for nationwide delivery. There is also a delicious, dairy-free Jewish apple cake (a recipe from the 1900s), melt-inthe-mouth Vanillekipferl (the little Austrian shortbread from which Kipferl takes its name), and an Apfelstrudel that many who’ve tried it say is the best they’ve ever had.

THE COOK SCHOOL @ HOME΄s offering means no thinking, no shopping – just taking delivery of a box of goodies and logging on at 6.30pm with a glass of wine (not provided, although they do send peanuts to snack on). There are lots of different classes – I booked in for the Asian one. With his lovely Scottish accent, head chef Stuart took us through a bit of butchery, a medley of marinating, a soupçon of slicing, a chug of chopping and the flair of flaking fish, imparting lots of professional tips along the way. Before long, we had beautiful Thai fishcakes sizzling in the pan with lime caramelising alongside them, and a zesty, tangy Asian slaw making its way into a dish to serve alongside. Then it was on to Singapore noodles and some brilliant tips on how to plate it all up artistically. The dishes were officially for two, but there was plenty for three of us and Stuart even included delicious banana and tahini cheesecakes (made by him) for dessert. Check out the Valentine’s Day class for a cute couple’s activity. FOOD TO YOUR TABLE 15





[N] Browse our menu online

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screen to summon hunger by watching somebody else eat. Somebody like Phil Rosenthal, who has pretty much eaten his way around the globe and in Season 4 of Somebody Feed Phil on Netflix devours the specialities of Rio De Janeiro, San Francisco, Singapore, Hawaii and Somebody Feed Phil Mississippi. Remember to take note of his recommendations for when we can travel again but, for now, it’s just vicariously.

Flora and Ulysses


here was a time when sitting at a table was enough to entertain us. There were waiters to watch grinding giant pepper mills, chefs popping out from steamy kitchens or just complete strangers heading to the loo. This was the choreography of restaurants we took for granted and now long for after nights of dining at home. Dining is perhaps too grand a word for most of us who have thrown-together suppers, viennas three times a week or leftovers in Tupperware in front of the TV. But you can do better than that – and you will, if you follow our movie with a meal guide. Forget about egg, chips and EastEnders, as we have ways to tantalise your taste-buds and revitalise your viewing. All you have to do is order and watch.

THE FAMILY FEED Sony has been dilly-dallying about the release of Peter Rabbit 2, so bunny is off the menu (it was never on). In place of Pete, we have a squirrel called Ulysses with superhero powers which he demonstrates to 10-year-old Flora, an avid comic book fan who loves an adventure. All ages with imagination will enjoy Flora & Ulysses, which starts on Disney +UK on 19 February, and what goes better with squirrels than something animal friendly like the delicious Great British shakshuka breakfast from Sababa (www.

Bluey, with veggie sausages, aubergines, peppers and more on challah, or their impressive Superfood salad. Of course, if they only want nibbles, team Chevington’s kosher cheese spread with crackers and get in some of their Gouda, Gloucester, or Lancashire for the grown-ups. Think of it as travelling by cheese. You could also settle the small ones in front of Disney’s Bluey, a series about an inexhaustibly energetic six-year old Blue Heeler dog that makes life with her mum, dad, and sister very upredictable. Invest in some blue Lola Cupcakes for the kids while you enjoy a cocktail or two delivered to your door by

ACCELERATE THE APPETITE Too familiar with your fridge? Boredom impacting on your craving? Use the small

The Amazing Journey of Aharoni & Gidi

It’s the same deal with The Amazing Journey of Aharoni & Gidi if you join www. with Jewish News.. This reality show has Israeli singer Gidi Gov and chef Yisrael Aharoni exploring the culture, history and religion of pretty much everywhere, but starts on the Silk Road with noodles. Cue impressive Chinese order from www. followed by perfetto pasta from Amaretto (www.amarettoristorante. when they hit Italy in episode seven, before heading to Turkey and take away from Melissa ( or Izgara ( FOOD TO YOUR TABLE 17



Back to Maracanã



The beautiful game remains on the box and fans can’t get enough of it so, for an extra kickabout, www.streamisrael. tv has the film Back to Maracanã, which is a warm and funny tale of reconciliation during a spontaneous trip from Israel to Brazil for the World Cup, which works well with the documentary Pelé on Netflix. Serve up the soccer with a Brazilian from Sabores in Willesden and some off-the-hook Portuguese custard tarts from Café de Nata in Chalk Farm.

So you’ve had the food, the films and series, which means it’s time for a show as we are missing live performance as much as table service. My advice is to gather the household and sign up for www. to watch Kinky Boots, Falsettos, 42nd Street and the little known Meshuggah-Nuns! If I tell you it’s about the sisters in wimples on an all-expense paid cruise having to stand-in for the seasick cast of Fiddler on the Roof, you’ll fathom where the meshuggah features. Get in some ice cream for the interval and, as Mama Rose would say, “Sing out Louise!”


VIVE LA DIFFERENCE Eat and educate yourself by practising French without reading the subtitles for Call My Agent! (Dix Pour Cent), The Bureau the series that dares to show how actors really behave. Catch up vite, as Season 4 is on Netflix and, with your improved French, try the political thriller series The Bureau with Jewish actor Mathieu Kassovitz. Alternatively, stick to Ivrit and watch A Movie With Catherine Deneuve on www. , a comedy about two ageing men in search of the legendary French movie star. Pret à manger? Then it’s Maison Patron takeaway (www.patronlondon. Call My Agent com), which is très magnifique.



Kinky Boots



Signatures Include: Wild Mushroom & Truffle Arancini Sesame Crusted Tuna Beef Wellington Roast Duck Feast Apple Tarte Tatin


Fine Dining @ Home Exceptional modern unsupervised Kosher Catering Visit: Call David Scott on 07717748107 or email

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EAT & Run (Walk) I’m starting to feel the benefits of my daily 10k (steps not distance!). Never having been an outdoorsy type, I’ve only ever previously clocked up this many steps in a shopping centre. I need to walk with a purpose in mind and the best possible purpose is food. Here, I’ve rounded up a few crocks of gold at the end of the footpath By Louisa Walters

FARMERS’ MARKETS are a great antidote to lockdown boredom and the perfect way to separate the weekdays from weekends as most are on Saturdays and Sundays.

Every Sunday, from 10am until 2pm, a quiet enclave just off Marylebone High Street is transformed into a gastronomic paradise with stalls selling cheeses, spices, and bread plus mushroom sarnies from The Mushroom Table. Listen out for former opera singer Kerry, who sometimes Coal Office serenades customers buying her north London-made ice cream. Ally Pally’s famous market has relocated to nearby Campsbourne School for the

time being and can be found there on Sundays with stalls selling fresh juices, Drum & Kernel popcorn, smoked fish, cookies and cakes. Check out superb pastry goodies from Life of Pie by former Ivy/

Caprice pastry chef Emma. Parliament Hill Farmer’s market is at the edge of Hampstead Heath every Saturday and Sunday with organic veg, asparagus, soft fruit, Levain Bakery’s brilliant sourdough, specialist spuds from The Potato Shop, plus hot food from Mumbai Mix, Pasta E Basta and much more. Grab a skinny cappuccino at Melrose and Morgan in Primrose Hill and then it’s a 40-minute walk along the Grand Union Canal to Coal Drops Yard in Kings Cross, by which time you’ll have worked (walked) up enough of an appetite to pick up a brisket sandwich, hummus with aubergine and pita or a flavoursome Yemenite soup at Coal Office or a cheese, mushroom and truffle toastie at Morty and Bob’s. If you’ve still got room when you land back in Primrose Hill, the bright yellow door of the Primrose Bakery is

Morty & Bob’s

Karma Bread

The Pergola

always open. The Pergola is one of the hidden delights of Hampstead Heath. In 1904, wealthy philanthropist William H Lever, later Lord Leverhulme, bought a large townhouse called The Hill and on the surrounding land built a structure where his friends and family could spend summer evenings and he could host extravagant parties. After his death, The Pergola was not maintained but this decaying, gothic structure retains a mystic beauty and affords wonderful views across the Hill Garden. From here, you can walk to Whitestone Pond and then turn left down East Heath Road all the way to Karma Bread for the best (and I do mean the best) cinnamon buns and the famous threecheese tuna melt.

Don your wellies for a walk around Aldenham Country Park and then stop off at Rustic Rhubarb to pick up cheesetopped toasties (yes cheese inside and outside!), jacket potatoes, mint hot chocolate, Bakewell tarts and lotus biscoff cake. Launched during the pandemic (crazy but true), this café fast built up a loyal following. The menu reflects a love of good rustic home -cooked food, not to mention owner Emma’s scrummy cakes (including some vegan and gluten-free ones). Closed on Mondays. From Whetstone High Road,

head towards North Finchley passing El Vaquero on your right (open for takeaway) and then turn right through the gate into Swan Lane open space, a charming place for a walk. At the heart of this is The Redwood Café where Leo, well known to the locals, serves up delicious soups, sandwiches, breakfast items, coffee and cake. At Oak Hill Park in East Barnet, Ewa and Jack run the café, which serves Polish delicacies alongside regular fare. There’s a range of pierogi (dumplings), borscht, beef goulash soup, golobki (cabbage rolls) and potato pancakes with smoked salmon and soured cream.

Rustic Rhubarb FOOD TO YOUR TABLE 21

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Kwoklyn Wan (brother of Gok) shares recipes from his new book, with a few ingredients to serve up a flavoursome dinner quicker than it takes to place an order with your local takeaway! By Alex Galbinski

SRIRACHA LO MEIN INGREDIENTS From the store cupboard 2 tbsp soy sauce 1 tsp sugar 2 tbsp vegetable oil pinch of salt

Lo mein is cooked ever so slightly differently to chow mein; chow mein is stirfried until the noodles are crispy, whereas lo mein is stir-fried with a sauce so that they remain soft. Sriracha is a delicious sauce originating from Thailand and works well with vegetables and noodles.


Combine the Sriracha sauce, soy sauce and sugar in a bowl and set to one side Loosen the noodles in a bowl of warm water, then drain and set to one side. Place a wok over a medium-high heat, add the oil and fry the red pepper and baby corn for one minute. Add the beansprouts and fry for a further minute, then add the loosened noodles along with the sauce mix and continue to fry until all of the ingredients are combined and warmed through. Serve immediately.


Photos by Sam Folan

3 tbsp Sriracha chilli sauce 2 nests of fresh lo mein egg noodles 1 red pepper, cut into strips 8 fresh baby corn, halved lengthways 175g beansprouts


tablespoons of the sauce for dressing the finished dish, then reduce the oven 30g cashew nuts 2 duck legs temperature to 170°C (340°F) and return From the store cupboard 120ml plum sauce, the tray to the oven. After 10 minutes turn ½ tbsp vegetable oil loosened with 2 tbsp water the legs over, baste again and return to the pinch of salt 1 pomegranate oven for a further 10 minutes. Repeat with pinch of white pepper 1 bag of mixed salad leaves two more turns and bastes, allowing a sticky glaze to build up. Remove from the 55 MINS oven and allow to rest for 20 minutes. Rich duck meat smothered in a sweet plum PREP, 1 HOUR Chop the pomegranate in half and, holding the sauce is food wizardry at its finest, delivering COOKING, open side against your palm and splayed fingers a taste of sweet and savoury heaven. So SERVES 2 over a bowl, tap the skin with a wooden spoon to how can we improve on perfection? Simply release the seeds. add pockets of pomegranate explosions with Once the duck has rested, carefully remove creamy cashew nuts and crispy salad leaves. the meat from the bone, shredding it at the same time, and set to one side. Arrange the salad leaves Put the duck legs into a bowl with the oil, salt in a shallow bowl and add the duck. Dress with and pepper and massage together, then allow the remaining plum sauce and toss to coat, finally to marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes. sprinkling with the pomegranate seeds and cashew Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). nuts. Serve immediately. Put the marinated duck legs into a baking tray and roast for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven Recipe extracted from Chinese Takeaway in 5 and baste with the plum sauce, reserving 3–4 by Kwoklyn Wan (Quadrille, £15) FOOD TO YOUR TABLE 23


KITCHEN CALLING As the granddaughter of butcher Louis Mann, Sarah Mann Yeager has mastered meat and poultry recipes, but also excels at veggie ones. Here she parcels both options for Purim



Why not try something a little different for this year’s fancy dress chag? It may be miserable outside, but you can put on a costume, turn up the heat and preserve a festive glow with something warming and simple from South America. Empanadas, delicious crispy parcels of meat, fish or vegetables, are eaten all across both Latin America and Spain and make a superb starter, a great addition to a buffet supper or finger food for parties. I have given the recipe for

a meaty version, but you can replace the meat with soya mince or even some drained tinned kidney or cannellini beans. Usually semi-circular in shape, there is no reason why they cannot be made into triangles to given them an authentic Purim twist. They can be scaled up and made into main meal size, and if you simply cannot bear the thought of frying them, just give these tasty treats a slick brush of egg wash and bake on a parchment-lined baking sheet for 12-25 minutes depending on the size.


MAKES 12- 16 SMALL Sauté the onion and green pepper in the olive oil until softened and then add the garlic. Add the mince and fry until browned, breaking up the clumps with a wooden spoon or a meaty potato masher. Stir in the seasonings, crumbled stock cube, tomatoes, wine and olives and simmer uncovered until all the liquid has evaporated. Adjust the seasoning and allow the mixture to cool. Thaw the pastry and cut it into squares, the size is up to you. I like a 12cm square or circle as it is a good two-bite size for finger food. Place a spoonful of meat mix in the centre of the square, wet the edge of the pastry and fold over to form a triangle shape 24 FOOD FOR YOUR TABLE

45ml olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 small green pepper, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed 500g beef, chicken or turkey mince ½ tsp ground black pepper 1 fresh chilli, chopped (optional) ½ tsp ground cumin ½ tsp smoked paprika

2 tsp fresh thyme leaves or ½ tsp dried ½ tsp chilli powder 1 beef or chicken stock cube 2 tomatoes skinned and finely chopped 3 tbsps red wine 12 pitted mixed olives, sliced 1-2 packs frozen puff pastry Poppy seeds for garnish

or in the centre of the circle, dampen the edges and fold up the outside edges to form sealed hamentashen shapes. You can make a fancy crimped edge or use a fork to press a pattern into the sealed edge. Pop the empanadas into the fridge for about 20 minutes to firm up so they are easier to handle and then deep fry them at around 170ºC to 180ºC until golden-brown and puffed up; five to eight minutes depending on size, or brush with beaten egg, sprinkle with poppy seeds and bake as described above. Empanadas can be made ahead and then open frozen on a tray before sealing into labelled bags.

A fisherman-friendly feast If you’ve been anywhere near a lake while out on a walk, you might have noticed one or two fishermen enjoying the wait for a bite. Fortunately, the rest of us don’t have to throw out a line to hook something for dinner and can rely on experts such as Mat Fresh Fish. The specialist fishmonger sells a huge range of fresh and wild produce caught by British fishermen, including the best cod, pollock, French carp, coley, halibut and plaice. Formerly fishermen themselves, the team behind Mat’s know their stuff and are super-accommodating, so if you don’t live near their three sites, they’ll deliver to your home and, best of all, they do the cleaning and cut to order. It would be nice if they came by boat, but a chilled van works just as well. Mat Fresh Fish is at 128 Brent Street, Hendon NW4 2DT, 020 8194 4335 (open 9am to 8pm); 238 Station Road, Edgware HA8 7AU, 020 4530 8980 (open from 9am to 8pm); and 450 Green Lanes, Palmers Green N13 5XD, 020 8944 4335. Consider buying your salmon, red snapper or halibut fillets for the below chraime recipe from Mat Fresh Fish.

CHRAIME SERVES: 6 AS A FIRST COURSE, 4 AS A MAIN North African Jews commonly serve fish cooked in a spicy sauce as a first course on Shabbat and Passover – but it also makes a show-stopping standalone main dish. The sauce’s components change depending on whether it is being cooked by a Moroccan, Tunisian or Libyan cook. In Israel, a tomato-based sauce spiced with paprika, cumin, and chillies has become popular. Measure out the spices before starting so they can be added all at once.

INGREDIENTS 60ml vegetable oil 1 large onion, halved through the root and thinly sliced 1 red pepper, cut into 1.25cm pieces 8 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 teaspoons sweet paprika 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon smoked paprika ½ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon crushed pepper flakes, plus more as needed 1 can (411g) chopped tomatoes

4 tablespoons tomato purée 1 teaspoon sugar 1 bay leaf 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 4 salmon, red snapper, or halibut fillets (170g each), patted dry Finely chopped fresh coriander and lemon wedges, for serving

APPLE & LEMON CRISP with mixed berries SERVES: 6-8 A warming winter dessert, bursting with the flavour of summer. The crunchy streusel topping is gluten-free and high in fibre. Berries are high in anthocyanins to give your body’s antioxidant and immune defences a boost, and the apples rich in pectin fibre and quercetin, which can help protect against heart disease, cancer and asthma. In summer or autumn, fresh peaches, plums or nectarines can be used instead of apples. Cooking apples work too, but are less sweet than eating apples so you may need to add a little honey or fresh orange juice.

PREPARATION TIME: 20 MINUTES COOKING TIME: 40 MINUTES In a large, wide frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, pepper and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Add the sweet paprika, cumin, smoked paprika, turmeric and pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about one minute. Stir in the chopped tomatoes, 295ml water, tomato purée, sugar, bay leaf, salt and black pepper. Increase the heat slightly and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until slightly thickened, about five minutes. Taste and add more salt, if desired. Nestle the fish fillets in the sauce, spooning sauce on top of the fillets to cover. Reduce the heat to medium low, cover and simmer until the fish is cooked through, about 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, discard the bay leaf and serve directly from the pan. (Or, carefully transfer fillets to a serving platter, then spoon the sauce on top.) Serve hot or warm, topped with coriander and with lemon wedges on the side for squeezing. The Jewish Cookbook by Leah Koenig is published by Phaidon, priced £35,

Photo by Marc Gerstein for The Cookery Studio

Photo by Evan Sung

INGREDIENTS For the filling 225g (8oz) fresh or frozen mixed berries or fruits of the forest 6 Braeburn or Cox’s apples ½ a small unwaxed lemon 2-3 tbsp sultanas or raisins Juice and finely grated zest of 1 orange For the streusel topping 85g brown rice flour or

gluten-free plain flour 85g ground almonds/hazelnuts 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp cinnamon 30g gluten-free jumbo or rolled oats 55g muscovado sugar 55g very soft butter/coconut oil 1 tbsp sunflower seeds 3 tbsp roughly chopped hazelnuts, pecans or walnuts

Defrost and drain the berries for several hours in a sieve (save any juice for smoothies). Preheat the oven to 200°C/Gas 6 and have ready a baking dish about 25cm × 20cm × 4cm. Peel, core and cut the apples into thin ½cm slices. Arrange them in an even layer in the dish and scatter with the berries. Cut the unpeeled lemon into very thin slices then into quarters and add to the fruit with the sultanas, orange zest and juice. To make the streusel topping, mix the flour, almonds, spices and sugar in a bowl or food processor. Rub in the

Be Fruitful & Feel Well We all know we should eat five portions of fruit and veg a day, yet some of us struggle to do it. Andrew’s Be Fruitful in Edgware has got your back – the family-run greengrocers and florist has a vast selection of fruit and veg of all colours, which nutritionists welcome. Andrew can get hold of all types of fruit and supplies caterers, schools and care homes. Customers are willing to travel for their high quality produce, but Andrew also delivers. Andrew’s Be Fruitful is at 17 Glengall Road, Edgware. / 020 8958 1388. Consider buying your fruit for the fruit crisp recipe from Andrew’s Be Fruitful. fat by hand or process until moist and starting to clump together. Stir or pulse in the oats and chopped nuts then sprinkle in an even layer over the fruit. Bake for 30 mins or until the apples feel tender when pierced with a slim pointed knife and the topping is golden-brown and crisp. Serve warm, either plain or with Greek yoghurt. Adapted from To Life!: Healthy Jewish Food by Judi Rose and Dr Jackie Rose, published by YouCaxton, priced £30. Available now at FOOD TO YOUR TABLE 25

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