Food and Travel 2022

Brilliant bakers Kosher vacations Insta chefs

Food&TRAVEL February 2022

Hot new places Tasty dishes Feeling hungry?

NEW RESTAURANTS

North

HEAD FOR NOSH

Edgware, Borehamwood and St Albans are the places to dine in 2022. Compiled by Louisa Walters Izagara Restaurant

CLOUD7

Newly-opened Cloud7 in Whitchurch Lane, Edgware, has a bright mirrored entrance and a small but warm seating area with plush chairs and marble flooring. On the face of it, they offer a brunch menu with full English breakfast (with beef sausages and turkey bacon, which will please some!), shakshuka, eggs Florentine, waffles and pancakes, plus a couple of additional lunchtime dishes with fried chicken. But it’s so much more than just a brunch place and has a real twist (which I will leave you to discover) – and everything from the baked beans to the hash browns is made in-house. We loved the housesmoked salmon (which is ‘smoked’ flaked salmon and not smoked salmon of the bagel and lox variety).

Everything is served with flourishes you would expect from a top restaurant in town (including fresh mint in the tap water) and prices are really reasonable for the quality. Don’t miss the chai tea and the custardfilled croissants.

Zila Golbert 020 3490 3305

THE PLOUGH

If you’re a fan of The Bull in Highgate you’ll already know that Rob Laub’s new place, The Plough in Sleapshyde, is something to get excited about. It’s ‘sort of’ in St Albans, down a country lane at the end of which it sits, all pretty in white with a huge garden overlooking fields and loads of parking out front and at the side. It’s a lovely space with lots of character and Rob has spent a small fortune on kitting out a shiny new kitchen, in which his chef is creating dishes that would not look out

CACAO BEAN RESTAURANT

of place at the two Michelin-starred pub Hand & Flowers (which is where, in fact, he used to work). We nibbled on griddled sourdough focaccia with whipped butter while ordering drinks from an extensive but not overwhelming (in either price or length) list of wines and beers. Bass tartare was a welcome change from tuna and was spiked with wasabi and apple to give it real punch. The chicken liver parfait was a mighty portion laced with orange and topped with pistachio, and I’m still dreaming about the curried cauliflower velouté with almonds and raisins. Halibut with taramasalata and cauliflower won our ‘prettiest dish’ award; pheasant with leeks, wild mushrooms and polenta leapt into top spot for most interesting dish and lamb with marzipan and black olive got full marks for being a creation that shouldn’t work, but absolutely does. There was a fantastic burger, a super steak, legendary triple-cooked chips and parsnip and horseradish mash that is definitely one to try at home. I fully appreciated the magnificence of the chocolate and peanut bar but I was too busy tucking into an outstanding sticky toffee pudding to pay much attention. We sampled a range of astonishingly good sorbets (just £2 a scoop) – apple, pear and pineapple among them. All this was served by the most delightful staff.

Louisa Walters www.ploughstalbans.com

Well away from the main drag in Borehamwood, Leeming Road until recently had nothing to dine out (or even in) on. That all changed the day Kushan Marthelis signed the lease on an unassuming workman’s caff, spruced it up with a beautiful glass frontage and quirky lights, and brought his brilliance to the kitchen. Late last year, Cacao Bean Restaurant and Cafe launched the best-value and best-tasting Sunday roast in north-west London, and last week started serving a midweek evening tapas menu Tuesday to Thursday.

Blackened cod with bok choy and miso glaze, Japanese beef curry with edamame, Sri Lankan spicy tuna fish cakes, zaatar-spiced burnt cauliflower with toasted pistachio and date compote, grilled halloumi with cashew pesto… can this really be Borehamwood? With churros and brioche butter pudding with salted caramel for dessert? Kushan has been a caterer for years and truly understands how to meld flavours into a menu of dreams and serve dishes with a smile. There are beautiful wines to accompany the dishes and they’re explained to you as they are poured. Kushan has big plans for his little restaurant.

Louisa Walters www.cacaobeanrestaurant.co.uk

jewishnews.co.uk FOOD TO YOUR TABLE 3

IN OTHER NEWS… with salads, and we couldn’t resist the hot chocolate fudge cake for dessert.

Izgara is truly family-friendly, but next time we’ll go with friends and try some of those delicious cocktails.

Marc Jacobs www.izgararestaurant.co.uk

AMARETTO BHAGEECHA

I’m not sure why it’s taken me so long to visit Bhageecha in Elstree (above); we had so many fantastic takeaways from them during the lockdowns.

You know those meals where a lot of the conversation is about the food?

Well, it was one of those. It’s seriously good, wow-factor, fine-dining Indian cuisine on a par with anything I’ve ever had from any other Indian restaurant (including the much-lauded Michelinstarred ones in W1). The onion bhajis were the best any of us had tasted before – think latkes plus delicious seasoning and spices – and the Peshwari naan was exquisitely thin and cinnamony. Standout dishes included portobello mushrooms stuffed with potato and cheese, crispy samosas, all food from the tandoor oven, chicken jeera, succulent duck cooked in a Goan coconut masala sauce, spinach saag and lamb madras. The place itself has been gorgeously done out – unrecognisable from its previous incarnation as The Fishery. There is onsite parking, the acoustics are just right and the service is delightful.

Debra Lewis Henry www.bhageecha.com

PAOLO’S ITALIAN KITCHEN

There was a time when Italian restaurants were popping up on every high street, but they were all the same in their total lack of any authenticity.

Paolo’s (below) is the most welcome addition to the pizza and pasta party in years because husband-and-wife chef team Paolo (formerly of The Rising Sun in Mill Hill) and Livia have poured a whole lotta love into their new venue in Borehamwood.

It’s cool, contemporary and stylish with an interesting menu juxtaposing Italian classics such as lasagna and pizza margherita with the temptation of pasta fritta (smoked-cheese stuffed fried pasta parcels) and tagliata di 4 FOOD AND TRAVEL jewishnews.co.uk

controfiletto (steak cooked in the pizza oven). There’s plenty for non-meat eaters and super delish desserts and if I can ever bring myself to veer away from tiramisu, I will try the budino di riso, which is a plum and vanilla rice pudding. On a cold night in January, I could almost feel the sun-drenched piazzas of Italy as I took my first sip of a delightfully fresh Gavi. Happy staff, talented chef, gorgeous décor, wonderful food, reasonable prices and easy parking – bravissimo!

Louisa Walters www.paolositaliankitchen.co.uk

IZAGARA

When I go for dinner with the family the ambience, the service and the food are of equal importance. At Izgara in Edgware, all three elements are absolutely impeccable. The restaurant is smart, trendy and super cool with buzzy music and the children loved watching the bar staff make amazing cocktails. The service was very attentive and the food was absolutely delicious – definitely not just another ‘standard’ Turkish. We ordered a few starters for us all to share and it was a pleasure to watch the kids demolish their chicken wings. Portions are huge, but we ploughed on through beautifully succulent mixed shish, which came

Restaurants in Edgware come and go, but Amaretto has been a mainstay since 2005 – and there’s a reason for that. It’s good traditional Italian cooking that travels well (I had many a takeaway from there during lockdown) and the prices are reasonable. It’s hard to steer yourself away from the superb pizzas and perfectly-cooked pasta dishes, but there is a lot more on offer, including my favourite zucchini and scaloppine al limone. Any meals here can be nicely rounded off with a home-made tiramisu. Owner Flo Bajari learnt his trade in southern Italy before bringing his expertise to the UK. He worked in several West End restaurants before opening this one in Edgware, followed by branches in Hendon and Golders Green.

Louisa Walters www.amarettoristorante.co.uk

While we can’t always eat out, if we’re eating in, we don’t need to do it all ourselves. Crush & Co offers a superb range of meaty and parev soups, salads sandwiches and loads of other tasty dishes, all licensed under the London Beth Din. These are available at kosher supermarkets such as Hadar, Be Kosher and Kays. Crush and Co will also cater for your family gatherings and events. www.crushco.co.uk

Alongside delicious, healthy, Middle Eastern-inspired kosher food, Jami’s Head Room Café in Golders Green dishes up mental health support.

A weekly programme promotes personal and communal wellbeing.

Dishes include a signature shakshuka, halloumi salad and salmon teriyaki skewers, as well as brunch classics such as smoked salmon and eggs on sourdough. Friendly staff take time to sit and chat with customers. It’s also great for kids, with a special children’s menu and meal deal offers in school holidays. A great destination for social and professional events, and staff will even present you with a personalised coffee with your company logo or photo on! There’s also Head Room to Go with takeaway food and drink. www.headroomcafe.org

BENNY’S DINER

Benny’s Diner has opened in Edgware on the Mowbray Parade and promises an enticing menu of salt beef, burgers, hot dogs and sandwiches, with chicken soup and chopped liver thrown in for good measure. There’s plenty for children and it’s all glatt kosher. I will visit soon and report back.

Louisa Walters www.bennys-diner.com

If you fancy channelling your love of food into doing good for the community, there are food-related opportunities at Jewish Volunteering Network (JVN) such as packing at a food bank, managing a café at Jewish Care or helping in the Kisharon kitchen.

There are long and short-term and oneoff volunteering opportunities available across the spectrum. The benefits of volunteering on individuals’ mental health are immeasurable, offering a path to enable people to feel valued and use their skillsets. It can even be a route to paid work. www.jvn.org.uk

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Balagan offers high-quality kosher food at an affordable price, with friendly, efficient staff and premium customer service!

Find us at: 47 Shenley Road, Borehamwood, WD6 1AE balagans.co.uk

02071129253

CATERING

KNIVES

Out

Tomer Vanunu

Natalie Allen

Rob Laub

Eric Elbaz

If making Friday night dinner stresses you out, imagine doing it for a paying clientele. Micaela Blitz investigates

T

he film Boiling Point explores the intense working conditions of a professional kitchen.

Stephen Graham plays head chef Andy Jones, who runs the kitchen with an aggressive, alpha male approach. Tomer Vanunu, owner of both El Vaquero and Numa restaurants in Mill Hill believes that this kind of behaviour is changing as a new generation of chefs comes through.

“There is less shouting and swearing and things are a little more zen in the kitche,” he says. “Many of the older members of the team, including me, have changed the way we interact with staff to make for a better working environment.”

Although tensions can be heightened when working under so much stress, developing a thick skin is essential, and catering chef Jonny Mervish knows that things said during service should not be taken personally.

“You should never take those stresses home with you.

As soon as last orders are done, the slate is wiped clean and it is all forgotten.”

Rob Laub believes respect is essential in the business.

As the owner of restaurants The Bull, in Highgate, and The Plough, in St Albans, he instils this in all his staff, operating a zero-tolerance policy towards negative behaviour.

“People need to know where to draw the line. Whether it’s between each other, with guests, or between front of house and back of house – there has to be respect.”

The long hours and late nights can make it difficult to achieve a work-life balance and personal sacrifices are often made along the way. Jonny found early on in his career how much it affected his social life and he lost touch with many friends because of it.

“I would work from 7.30am until 11.30pm, which meant that seeing friends was difficult. Over the years, my job has also meant I have had to miss other family occasions, but no matter what, I have always made sure that I take off Rosh Hashanah, Yom Kippur and Pesach.”

While having the chance to eat delicious food from their own menus is an obvious perk, it is also a way to ensure that standards are kept high for customers. Natalie Allen of Sweet Things Café and Bakery in Primrose Hill checks for consistency in her products by trying everything so

6 FOOD AND TRAVEL jewishnews.co.uk

the customer gets the best product possible. Product development is also a big part of her role and she applies the same exacting standards to this.

“Nothing gets sold without my say so; if I don’t like it, I won’t put it on the menu. I will often take lots of different recipes and mix them together to make my own creation that I know my customers will like.”

Having won Good Taste awards for many of her products, including chocolate brownies and cinnamon buns, it’s an approach that obviously works and she has many loyal customers, many of whom described being ‘devastated’ recently when the café had to close for refurbishment.

While ensuring customers have good experiences is key, being able to deal with disgruntled clientele and feedback is essential. With the prospect of customers posting negative reviews online, resolving things before they leave is essential. Tomer remembers his first bad review and what he learnt from it.

“I didn’t sleep for days worrying about it, but after working in this industry for 20 years, I have developed a tougher skin. Now I make sure that we speak to every customer in the restaurant so any issues can be addressed, This way they feel they have been listened to, and so are less likely to post something negative.”

When it comes to keeping the customer happy, Jewish customers are often seen to be more difficult to please.

As the owner of Kasa, Hampstead Garden Suburb’s newest kosher restaurant, Eric Elbaz knows that negative comments can spread fast in the community and, while he tries to deal with issues customers might have, sometimes they can be tricky to resolve.

“A customer who ordered a takeaway called when he got home to tell me there was something missing from his order. I asked him to bring it back so I could sort it and he informed me he had already eaten it!” he recalls.

Outside of the kosher world, Jewish customers can sometimes give themselves away without realising. Rob Laub thinks that his ‘Jewdar’ is pretty strong and will often make jokes with Jewish customers.

“As a 6ft 2in big guy who owns a pub, it is often a surprise when I say something, as they don’t realise I am Jewish!”

Jonny found it was sometimes what they ordered that

Jonny Mervish of Served by Merv

gave them away. When he worked at Smith’s in Wapping, Jewish customers would order fried fish in matzah meal, and he had to show the other chefs how to do it. He has also taken opportunities to share other Jewish specialities in the kitchen and once made chicken soup for the rest of the team. They liked it so much they put it on the menu.

He now runs his own private dining business, Served

by Merv. With a mainly Jewish clientele, he has found that customers know exactly what they want and how they like things, despite his professional recommendations.

“Ultimately it is up to them – if they want me to cook beef Wellington well done, then that’s what I have to do!”

Tomer sees many Jewish customers at his restaurants, but recently went a step further by employing Jewish staff too – mainly from JFS. “Sometimes Jewish kids can be seen as spoiled or entitled, but the ones who work for me are all lovely and work hard. Their parents often come into the restaurant and are impressed to see how much they do at work, when they struggle to get them to tidy their rooms at home!”

Why Sababa?

SABABA NEWS P r i v a t e E ve n t s Not everyone is aware that we also cater for private events.

Reviews have been great!

When: Weekday or Shabbat Location: Sababa, shul, communal buildings or home…

Occasion: Sheva Brachot, Birthday, bar-mitzvah, bat-mitzvah, brit seuda, upsheren, kiddush, communal, business breakfasts, office parties etc

Delicious ‘Bonjour’ Challahs every Thursday and Friday!

Sababa

‫שלום‬

‫שבת‬

Shabbat Shalom

FROYO

Facilities: Full Sababa Menu + Catering Menu, crepe stations, sushi stations, buffets, full service, breakfasts, dinners, lunches and more…

Sababa

TEL: 020-8191 0308

OPENING HOURS

Sunday - Thursday: 9.30am - 9.30 pm Friday: 9.00 am - 2.30 pm

33-35 Shenley Rd, Borehamwood WD6 1AE

SATURDAY NIGHT 1 hour after Shabbat - 10.30 pm

Email: hannan@sababaa.uk We b : w w w. s a b a b a a . u k

Planning an event?

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BAKERIES XXX

SIMPLY BREAD WE’VE COME A LONG WAY FROM THE SUPERMARKET SLICED WHITE, SAYS ANGIE JACOBS

V

Tami Isaacs making her signature challah

Anne Iarchy offers many types of home-baked bread

Gail’s currant and sour cherry sourdough bread

8 FOOD TO YOUR TABLE jewishnews.co.uk

Institute. Second base was baking out alentine’s Day may be of her home, third base a micro bakery approaching, but don’t supplying a rapidly expanding (in worry if love is not on number and clothes size) client base your radar this year together with London delis. Finally she because there is something else raised enough ‘dough’ to open Karma more beautiful, more accessible Bread in Hampstead in July 2015. and more satisfying than romance She bakes onsite and her customers – bread. Us Jews just can’t get are her market research. Among enough of it. From the humble more established offerings, she bagel and the Friday night challah practises hybrid baking, “bending and to flavoured artisan sourdoughs blending traditions”. Her latest amour commanding upwards of £4 a loaf is Shokupan, which is a Japanese (Gail’s currant and sour cherry milk bread. Tami doesn’t just bake sourdough, anyone?), we all want for paying customers though; during a slice of the action. the first lockdown she and a team The bread scene has changed over of volunteers baked for many of the years. In 2022, it’s all about the the wards of the nearby Royal Free sourdough, the spelt and the brioche Hospital. Favourite band: Frankie but, for me, there’s still nowt wrong Goes to Paul Hollywood. with a slice of toast dripping with Tami is not the only baker with a butter from a generic loaf (especially social conscience. The Dusty at a hotel breakfast). I thought Knuckle, with branches in it was right to let some Dalson and Haringay, London bakers have their accept referrals from say about their own both the community delicious bready treats. and professional It’s no problem organisations to sourcing challah and provide work-based bagels if you reside in mentorship/support north London, but what Bagels and training and employment happens if you live out of Schmear opportunities to at-risk youth the area? Andrew Lester, who aged 17-29, helping them become was born into the Nana Fanny’s salt financially independent, happy and beef and felafel empire, lucky chap, valuable members of society. They saw that despite having over a quarter have just been voted Time Out’s mostof a million residents, Southwark did loved London café and are famous for not have a single bakery where Jewish their focaccia). Favourite pop duo: Paul people could get their bagels and Simon and Artisan Garfunkel. challah.

If you like some cream cheese on He approached the powers that your bagel, or possibly the other way be at Borough Market and set up around, do take a trip to Bagels & Moishe’s Bagelry and Bakery.

Schmear at Battlers Green Farm, I asked Andrew if he had a good Radlett. Owner, baker and all-round baker’s favourite pop group pun – you superwoman Francesca Goldhill was know, like Yeast 17 and Bagel City unable to source a New York bagel Rollers. He humoured me politely and (crispy on the outside and chewy on said no, but when people ask what’s the inside) in the UK, so the spent six in the rainbow bagels, he replies months perfecting her own from her “real rainbows and the odd unicorn”. mum’s kitchen. This side hustle turned (Incidentally, the colours are all into a successful business and now derived from natural ingredients.) she has her own premises in Radlett.

Getting back to romance, Karma Her mum has finally got her kitchen Bread’s Challah Queen, Tami Isaacs, back and, considering Francesca fell in love with baking almost a informed me that each bagel takes decade ago, when she took a course 18 hours from start to finish, she’s at the Hampstead Garden Suburb

Karma Bread’s challah

Moishe’s rainbow bagels

probably rather pleased about that.

The ‘schmears’ are sold separately in a variety of sweet and savoury flavours such as marmite, cinnamon and raisin and olive oil and rosemary. I can’t wait to visit and have some tasters.

Favourite song: All Rise by Blue.

A good, friendly bakery serves as a community hub and this is very much the case with Kossoffs. Passed down from generation to generation since the 1920s, Aaron Kossoff (great-grandson of founder Wolf) has now opened a branch in Kentish Town, where people come from miles around for the Ottolenghi-trained baker’s delicious loaves. Favourite song: When I Knead You by Leo Sayer.

Anne Iarchy started her baking business from her home in Finchley during the lockdown and posts her healthy and tasty offerings on Instagram as little_home_baker.

Her love affair with baking began when she ran out of bread flour for challah and got a sourdough starter in her delivery from Bread Ahead. Her wares now include cakes, bagels and focaccia – customers happy to drive out of their area to procure a home baked, healthy product. Least favourite singer: Carole Kingsmill.

Something got me Sourdough Started and now I’m off to schmear something on a slice to have with a cuppa.

SUSHI

Love

Angie Jacobs discovers the draw of a sushi restaurant that does not compromise on taste – or its kosher credentials Borehamwood is the place for kosher sushi, said no Jew ever, but this changed in December when Yossi Stauber opened Baba Sushi within the dairy restaurant Sababa.

It’s under the supervision of the KLBD, but not only is it kosher, it is meshugge fresh and tasty. We kicked off with maki rolls, inside out rolls, nigiri, sashimi and salmon crunch rolls. People don’t usually like sharing with me, but my husband had an easy gig as I am atrocious with chopsticks.

Our food was attractively served on a black slate and every mouthful was delicious and succulent – as good as any sushi I’ve ever tasted.

There were still things on the menu that we needed to ‘research’, so round two

Find us at: 33-35 Shenley Rd, Borehamwood WD6 1AE

consisted of a salmon and avocado hand roll and a yellowtail, cucumber and spring onion one. To ensure we had really worked the joint, we also ordered cooked Teriyaki salmon dragon rolls.

Baba Sushi’s base is a light, modern and high-ceilinged space and there’s no schnorrering with the portion sizes. It’s competitively priced and, if you want to keep tabs on your spend, you can get a poke bowl for under a tenner. Baba Sushi delivers to north-west London, Bushey and Watford as well as being on Deliveroo. It also caters for parties and sushi buffets. I’m gonna get me some chopstick lessons and return. www.babasushi.co.uk

babasushi.co.uk 02081917234

THE FRESHEST KOSHER SUSHI Available for catering, delivery, & dine-in

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“A fantastic new addition to the area. Good value, tasty food, we will definitely be coming back again and again!”

“Awesome American diner theme. Very tasty burger and chips.”

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Vegetarian, gluten-free and takeaway menus available.

INTERVIEW

COOKING

From Phone

toTable

Louisa Walters considers how Instagram influences your cooking

N

othing says more about you than your Insta feed. Mine is full of food and I spend many happy minutes watching recipe reels. These are an ever-increasing source of inspiration and I can’t help but feel that the ’gram is the way forward for mealtime magic. I chatted to six Insta chefs to see what they think.

Dalia Haber @fastfoodmystyle 4,601 followers I am a busy mum of three who loves to cook. I love spices and flavour and creating new dishes for my kids to eat in a healthy way. I set up a website on which to post my recipes, did a one-day intensive iPhone food photography course and then started sharing online. I love the creativity of Instagram and people telling me they love my recipes. My posts generally get at least 100 likes and I once got 1,000 for a hummus recipe! Ottolenghi-type recipes get the most engagement. I have met loads of fellow Insta-foodies and been featured in Ocado magazine, Jewish newspapers and even my shul magazine.

Recipes you might see on my feed: spiced rice / beef kofte Accounts I follow: @her_dark_materials, @sami_tamimi, @oksanarichie

James Linden @Livelikelinden 12.3K followers I started my Instagram food account in 2017 after realising that half my life is spent either cooking or eating. I am what you call a food blogger – I eat out, I review, I cook, I share recipes and, of course, I take pictures of it all. I do it because of my love of food – it’s always part of the conversation. Even when I’m eating, I’m thinking about what the next meal is going to be. I want others to share my love of food, I want them to try my recipes and go to restaurants that I love. I’m not a professional chef, but I cook well and my food tastes good so why shouldn’t I share that? There is nothing more rewarding than someone sending me a picture of a meal they have cooked from one of my recipes.

Recipes you might see on my account: Thai chicken traybake / chilli con carne Accounts I follow: @simplyfoodbymandy, @at_dads_table, @fitwaffle

Jake Dryan @plantfuture 111K followers My grandfather is from Italy and was a chef his whole life, so I’ve been a foodie since I can remember. I left school at 16 to study at culinary college in Westminster and then earned my stripes

at the Hilton Metropole. I now run online cooking lessons from home and post short recipe videos on my Instagram account, which I set up in February 2018. I have also just published a recipe book, The Plantfuture Home Cook Bible, which focuses on quick, simple plant-based meals. I’m not vegan, but my food focus is ‘plant strong’. During the first lockdown, things really started to pick up on my Instagram.

I get great feedback and many of my reels have hundreds of thousand views, with a few over a million. I’m one of the only trained chefs in the plant-based Instagram niche. People still enjoy cookbooks, but a more interactive version will emerge due to technology. I think video is definitely winning at the moment – look at the success of video-only Tik Tok, which is video only.

Recipes you might see on my account: oyster mushroom kebabs / celeriac cutlets Accounts I follow: @thomas_straker, @carolinagelen, @veggieanh

Penina Ehreich @simply.pea 5,276 followers I started Simply Pea during lockdown, while taking a break from teaching science, to share simple kosher cooking with recipes, tips and techniques to help make mealtimes less stressful and more fun. I genuinely do it to help people.

Cooking shouldn’t be a chore and things can be made easy so why not share the tricks I have learnt over the years? I think my science background helps me to made things clear and simple so even a novice can try a recipe. It’s such a great feeling when I receive messages from people who always found cooking difficult but, due to my video tutorials, have made meals they and their whole family love. The engagement I have with my followers is really rewarding. People seem to love the video aspect and the step-by-step guides I make, so I think this is the way forward for me.

Recipes you might see on my account: Blood orange tea cake / spiced fish tagine Accounts I follow: @chantzyw, @sarahlasry, @garlic.and.ganache

Emma Spitzer@emmaspitzer

15.9K followers I am an enthusiastic home cook who loves keeping it simple. I was a finalist on MasterChef in 2015 and this gave me the confidence to share my love of cooking and recipes. I started posting stories about food with recipes on Instagram to keep an active profile and connect with like-minded people.

My stories regularly get more than 1,000 views. My feed posts could be better, but my photography and styling skills are below par! There is always a place for recipe books – nothing replaces them – but Insta gives you the inspiration and ideas, plus exposure to chefs whom we may have otherwise missed.

Recipes you might see on my page: shakshuka/ sticky Korean-style tofu Accounts I follow: @pinchofnom, @smittenkitchen, @thelondonbruncher

Denise Phillips @denises_kitchen 7,347 followers I am a professional chef (I trained at Prue Leith) and cookery writer. Since 2015, I have used Instagram as part of my mission to show that Jewish food can be tasty, attractive and easy to make. I feature my new recipes and use reels and stories to showcase my skills as a cookery teacher and to promote my events and partnerships with interesting new food companies. I get a real buzz from the feedback, which is everything from a simple thumbs up emoji, all the way to photographs of people’s success with my recipes. The world is smaller on Instagram – I get leads to people and companies in the UK and the US. I love the fact I will do a twominute recipe reel in the morning, and by lunchtime it might have been seen by more than 3,000 people. Instagram is definitely the way forward – it is so much more engaging and addictive than recipe books..

Recipes you might see on my page: bao buns with satay cauliflower florets / chocolate and chestnut roulade Accounts I follow: @challahprince, @kosherdotcom, @adikosh_123 jewishnews.co.uk FOOD TO YOUR TABLE 11

FOOD HELPERS

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KING OF THE KITCHEN

3

4

JAMES LINDEN ROUNDS UP HIS KITCHEN MUST-HAVES 7

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LOW-BUDGET ESSENTIALS

1. Microplane Zester Grater Lakeland £23.99 If you have never zested something with a microplane, then you have never really zested anything at all. I know it sounds crazy, but zesting with this is a dream come true. It glides across citrus so effortlessly, taking off just the right amount. It can also be used to grate chocolate or cheese.

2. Oxo Good Grips 3-in-1 Avocado Tool Fenwick £9 Before I had one, I always thought this was a bit of a fad, but it works really well (and is far less dangerous than using a knife.)

It cuts through the avocado skin, slices the flesh and never has de-pipping been so easy!

3. Garlic Press Various £5-£15 This is the one thing I really can’t live without. I would say I use a garlic press for 90 percent of my cooking. Simply place a whole garlic clove in the press (no need 12 FOOD AND TRAVEL jewishnews.co.uk

2

Being a foodie and someone who is passionate about cooking, it’s safe to say that the kitchen is where you will find me most of the time. I’m no professional chef; however, when it comes to a kitchen gadget my inner geek comes to life. Over the years, I have trialled and tested many kitchen gadgets. Some have made the cut and landed a permanent place in the Linden kitchen; others have not been so fortunate.

to peel), squeeze together and perfectly crushed garlic comes out, leaving the skin to be discarded. Top tip: use a knife to cut away the crushed garlic – it means the peel will come out much easier.

PUSH-THE-BOAT-OUT LUXURIES

4. Velvetiser Hotel Chocolat, £99.95 Over winter, this has been an absolute winner. It makes the perfect hot chocolate. Just add some flaked chocolate (we have used both Hotel Chocolat’s luxurious sachets and grated our own), add some milk and press the button. After around two minutes, you have the most velvety, silkysmooth hot chocolate.

It is also the perfect temperature to instantly enjoy. Top tip if you are using non-dairy milk, go for ‘barista milk’ – it’s so much creamier.

5. Global Ceramic Knife Sharpener Kitchen Knives £47.95 Every home cook can benefit from having a sharp knife to work with. I have tried my fair

share of knife sharpeners, from a traditional Japanese whetstone to a £5 budget gadget.

This one is by far the most superior. Simply fill the ‘trough’ with water and run the knife across each wheel six or seven times.

It’s simple and quick to use, creates a perfectly sharp edge and, most importantly, it doesn’t damage your knives.

6. Meater Meater £79 The ultimate meat thermometer. Whether you are cooking your Friday night roast in the oven, or slow cooking on the BBQ, this is a brilliant piece of kit.

It is wireless and Bluetooth-enabled, so no need for wires. You can tailor your cook based on cut of meat and target temperature and, because it connects to your phone, you can keep a constant eye on how things are progressing (and even get notifications when your food is ready to serve).

7. Le Creuset Wine Bottle Opener John Lewis £37 There are many bottle openers available, but this one comes with the quality you

would expect from Le Creuset.

The difference is the ‘two step’ design, which allows for extra leverage and a more seamless effortless cork removal. There is a plastic-handled version available for around £23 and I am sure it works just as well, but it’s not as elegant-looking.

ONE TO AVOID

8. Egg poacher Various £ too much Unfortunately, this doesn’t do exactly what it says on the tin. Is it easy to use? Yes. Does it cook your egg in pan of water? Yes. Does it create a perfectly poached egg? Not in my opinion. I found the finished product to lack the finesse of a poached egg and had more of a fried egg appearance (without the oil).

Follow my Instagram page, www.instagram.com/livelikelinden where you can see some recipes, restaurant reviews and a lot of pics of food!

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It’s not just about the food, it’s about celebrating life!

Bring your family and friends for an authentic Indian experience and choose from our extensive menu with delicious vegetarian & vegan dishes all made from the freshest ingredients.

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COOKING CONUNDRUMS

m e h y Ma Mealtime

A family who eats together stays together, or so the saying goes. But consider the meal-makers who find it super-stressful finding dishes that can be eaten by those with allergies or fussy preferences, says Alex Galbinski

“S

omething smells nice,” my 11-year-old son says cheerfully, coming into the kitchen to see what I’m making for dinner.

“Oh, I’m pleased you think so,” I reply.

“It’s a new tofu dish I’m trying out.”

My son rearranges his smile into a barelyconcealed grimace and says: “Ah, yeah.

I’m just going out… for dinner. I’ll be back tomorrow.”

That there’s a stand-off in our household is a running joke. My 14-year-old daughter and I are trying to reduce our reliance on meat, something not viewed with enthusiasm by my husband or my son.

My husband – who claims not to be fussy but doesn’t like ‘wobbly’ food – is prone to barking: “But where is the protein?” whenever a veggie dish is proposed. He claims he could give up meat as long as fish is on the menu – but the kids aren’t keen.

As for me, it has been suggested that I might benefit from a gluten-, dairy- and sugar-free diet to help with some health issues.

This leaves us bored with the dishes we can all eat, given how often they feature on our menu rotation.

I know I’m not the only one with dinnertime dilemmas. When I posted on a couple of Facebook recipe groups asking to speak to people who cook multiple meals for their families, one reader, Rachelle Lazarus, replied: “Isn’t that everyone?”

Rachelle, 54, who is vegetarian, lives Rachelle with her husband and Lazarus teenage sons in Temple Fortune.

“I make different meals. I don’t even feed the dog things he doesn’t like,” she admits. “I also cook for my father-in-law.

He grew up in the 1930s and, during the

war, was sent to boarding school, so he doesn’t understand the concept of being a fussy eater – he eats anything he is given.

However, I don’t want him to feel he needs to eat things he doesn’t like – life’s too short.”

The charity manager for a Jewish organisation says her children, now 19 and 17, used to be easy to feed when young, although this changed as they got older.

“But you just adapt the food you make,” explains Rachelle who, before People have left behind the ‘eat what you’re given’ attitude of the 1950s the pandemic, used to take it in turns with friends in her community to host to contend with allergies. Her middle child, “Beau went vegan in lockdown, which big Shabbat lunches.

Adam, 18, has a serious allergy to legumes – was an adjustment,” explains Emma, “A friend of mine said that cooking was including soya, chickpeas and lentils. becoming a little stressful because, whereas who is also an amateur baker and is used Her youngest daughter, Louise, 15, is to substituting ingredients. once she would comfortably vegetarian bordering on vegan, and those “But then she started having make cholent and kugel, now banned items feature in much of the food stomach aches, so the she feels like she has to be she eats. So Stephanie has to be scrupulous doctor recommended she Ottolenghi. in using different pans – if there’s ever any follow a gluten-free diet.

“I love cooking, but risk of cross-contamination, all the food Unfortunately, most of I don’t make fancy food. gets binned. the prepared vegan food My style has always been “It got very annoying as sometimes she had been eating isn’t to use five ingredients I couldn’t remember what utensil I had gluten-free, so she had to per recipe and keep things EmmaMortonused for whose meal, so I ended up buying start eating fish.” as simple as possible. Food Turner different-coloured ones,” Stephanie, 50, There are other preferences should not take longer to explains. “It all literally hurts my head.”

Emma has to balance. “Darcey won’t prepare than to eat.”

The one thing they will all happily eat is eat mushrooms or peas, but does like Another parent having to navigate rice, which Stephanie can make well, being broccoli, while for Beau it’s the opposite. mealtime mayhem is Emma Morton-Turner, half-Iranian. She has become adept at Emma remains upbeat, though, seeing 49, an interior stylist and writer substituting ingredients so that most of the it all as a challenge she can overcome. from Bromley. meal can overlap for each family member, “During lockdown, I learnt how to cook Emma, who keeps kosher, for example coating some portions of and to use flavours – it was a way for me to suffers from acid reflux and tries Quorn in water rather than egg before relax. They all really like the ramen noodle to keep to a special diet that dipping them in breadcrumbs. soup from Wagamama, so I learnt how to avoids certain foods, such as Back in my own kitchen I have started make that and it only takes 20 minutes. yellow onions. She also steers meal planning and I’m gratefully accepting It’s like a Chinese version of chicken soup. clear of spicy and greasy food. contributions from all family members.

I make it vegan for Beau and add chicken Her husband, Tim, doesn’t like So far it’s helpful – even if just to say: for the rest of us. to eat certain foods together, so “Look at the board!” when they ask: “With teenage girls, it’s really important quiches, for example, are a no-go. Their “What’s for dinner?” that they are eating the right food. They oldest daughter, Beau, 18, is vegan and has NB If you are concerned by your child’s now understand it’s vital they have certain recently had to make changes to her diet, attitudes to food or level of ‘fussiness’, things in their diet.” while her sister Darcey, 15, just wants to eat do seek professional help.

Stephanie (not her real name) also has meat and veg.

jewishnews.co.uk FOOD AND TRAVEL 15

PUBLICATIONS

COOKING the books Alex Galbinski looks through new books with the wow factor for the discerning Jewish News cook

Gluten-free treats from Aran Goyoaga’s new book

FREEKEH, WILD WHEAT AND ANCIENT GRAINS by Ruth Nieman

the history of food, has meticulously researched the history of the Sephardic Jews. Using sources from the 13th century onwards, such as medieval cookbooks, Inquisition trials and poems, she has recreated recipes (adapted for modern cooks) and created new ones to ‘bear witness to the culinary richness of the Sephardim, conversos, who were able to bring their cuisines to life wherever they went’.

A feast for the senses as well as the memory. Academic Studies Press £29.50

GOOD FOOD by Sina Mizrahi

VEGAN, AT TIMES by Jessica Seinfeld

Recipe writer and photographer of the blog Gather A Table, Sina Mizrahi shares more than 160 recipes inspired by her Middle Eastern roots and the places she has called home. The flavours are fresh and bold and the recipes include dishes for casual and holiday meals, home-made spice blends, Instant Pot directions and tips to increase your confidence in the kitchen. Artscroll/Mesorah £31.40

If you’re a meat-eater, fear not, as Jessica (the wife of the also-famous Jerry) won’t try to convince you to become vegan or shame you for eating meat (she and her family aren’t vegans either). Instead, she wants to show you how easy it is to be a vegan at times, by cooking flavoursome, affordable and robust plant-based meals whenever you want – be that every day, once a week, or just once in a while. Gallery Books £22.23

52 SHABBAT by Faith Kramer

SEPHARDI by Hélène Jawhara Piñer Hélène Jawhara Piñer, who has a PhD in history, medieval history and

16 FOOD AND TRAVEL jewishnews.co.uk

Ruth Nieman combines the ancient history of the Israelites with new ways to cook and enjoy grains from which our modern way of life has distanced us. She shares recipes using freekeh, once collected by Ruth in Boaz’s wheat fields in Bethlehem, as well as ‘wild wheats’ including emmer, spelt and Khorasan and ancient grains such as barley, sorghum and teff. She also tells the stories of the people who grow and harvest the grains, smoke the fields and hull the husks. Prospect Books £20

Food writer and recipe developer Faith Kramer shares recipes and flavours from around the world to help you spice up your Friday night meal. Recipes are divided into chapters based on the seasons, along with sections on side dishes and accompaniments, desserts and fundamentals. Recipe pairings are suggested, incorporating easy substitutions to make Shabbat meals accessible for any lifestyle.

The Collective Book Studio £29.99

CANNELLE ET VANILLE BAKES SIMPLE by Aran Goyoaga

While this is not a Jewish cookbook, Aran Goyoaga – founder of the blog Cannelle et Vanille – who comes from the Basque region, northern Spain, has included some heimishe recipes suitable for the coeliacs or gluten intolerant among us, including challah (one of her most-requested recipes) and babka.

The recipes, all of which offer dairy-free subsititutions or are naturally vegan, include breads, cakes, pies, tarts, biscuits and cookies. Sasquatch Books £25.95

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TRAVEL

Next year in Jerusalem... or possibly Dubai?

By Debbie Collins

A

s the final portion of the Haggadah says, L’Shana Haba’ah B’Yerushalayim – Next year in Jerusalem. Maybe they were on to something there?

Considering the laborious prep that comes just before Passover, notably the dreaded ‘big shop’ with a till receipt so long that you could repaper your downstairs loo with it, it’s no wonder that so many are favouring an organised getaway over the Jewish holidays.

For many years, families have flocked to various destinations to enjoy kosher programmes with particular focus on festivals such as Passover and Succot. The very idea of someone else doing the hard work for you has such huge appeal, making for a more enjoyable trip where you don’t have the hassle of worrying about anything at all, notably where you are going to find kosher cuisine.

These annual programmes ensure many returning families each year, sold into the idea of a hassle-free holiday and meaning they don’t have to travel with everything bar the kitchen sink to be able to enjoy a trip away from home. It’s a common story to hear of the wife and kids flying to somewhere in Europe, while the husband travels there by road in a minivan filled with enough frozen kosher food to service the whole of London, snacks galore, disposable crockery, pots and pans, not to mention a groaning roof rack of luggage.

And upon arrival, you’ve still got to kosher the accommodation.

Where’s the holiday in that?

What began in more traditional locations, such as France and Italy, now extends to more exotic destinations such as South Africa, Dubai and even China. Of course, these trips come with a price tag but, like with any holiday, it’s only as expensive as you want it to be. Plus, with many airlines offering excellent deals to make up for all that missed airtime during Covid, there is usually something to suit most budgets.

With more than 10 years’ experience in keeping the Jews happy (no mean feat), Olam Holidays is gearing up for yet another successful

Above: Olam Negresco Hotel restaurant terrace. Bespoke Kosher Travel has a programme for Dubai, left, and South Africa, right

Pesach programme in the beautiful location of Sardinia, with the choice of hotel accommodation or the option of taking a luxury villa plus private pool.

Set on a stunning white sandy beach, the view itself would be enough for some, but KDeluxe lays on a whole host of activities and nightly entertainment for all guests Passover programme, this time to enjoy. A particular highlight in Costa Dorada, Spain, where is the sporting activities the company hopes you will programme for those who can’t ‘arrive like a guest and leave like sit still, including basketball, family!’ Its customer reviews are rugby and fencing. It’s no wonder testament to just how much the that so many rebook for the guests enjoy the programmes on offer, including organised day trips, following year. Familiarity and knowing what to expect is often kids’ club and babysitting services, key, especially for families with plus meaningful and motivational young children, where the less guest speakers appearing regularly stress the better. Plus, there’s during the trip. always time to explore the world If Spain isn’t your cup of sangria, when the kids are a little older. then KDeluxe is running its If a package trip sounds a little too much like you’re going to bump into your neighbour, maybe Bespoke Kosher Travel is more suited to you. This company aims to make any request at any time of year become a reality.

Whether you want five-star luxury hotel/ beach life, adventurous kayaking, or simply to have a go at dune Forte Village in Sardinia, pictured at night, is a Pesach offering from KDeluxe

surfing, anything is possible, with itineraries and budgets tailored to specific individual needs.

Bespoke Kosher Travel is all about ‘taking the hassle out of travel’ and it really does come through on that promise.

In terms of who joins these programmes, it does seem a mixed bag – families, older retired couples, even singles. At one communal seder at a hotel in Cannes, an older gentleman from the States attended the programme alone. He was invited to join the table of an extended family who had brought their ‘Bubbe’ along. A beautiful connection was made, and companionship was found over the seder plate.

For the newlyweds who want a honeymoon like no other, couples celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary or families simply keen to enjoy a relaxing break and connect with extended family from across the globe, there are programmes to suit all, ensuring that your kitchen sink stays firmly plumbed in at home. www.olamholidays.com www.kdeluxe.com www.bespokekoshertravel.com

jewishnews.co.uk FOOD AND TRAVEL 19

TPH_1054 Pesach Ad 260 x 165.indd 1

2/4/22 1:26 PM

A WILDLIFE

PARADISE

SHARON FEINSTEIN DISCOVERS AN ANIMAL CONSERVATION SANCTUARY IN SOUTH AFRICA

Above: Lebombo Lodge Suite and, below, the balcony

S

naking below us, the elephants cut their trail through the bush, great swaying grey bulks moving across the border between South Africa and Mozambique – they who know no borders and have walked the earth for 55 million years.

We are standing at the ‘poort’ – a hilltop – watching them: me, Ben Ackerman (an environmental guide from Singita Lebombo lodge in Kruger) and scout Christof. The silence is absolute, but for a momentary bird call, the crackle of dry undergrowth and sudden shrieking of monkey alarm calls as they dart up the trees at the approach of a leopard.

I rub my hand on the distinctive yellow trunk of the sprawling fever tree and paint my face with the yellow powder for good luck. Certainly, it is luck that has brought me to Singita Lebombo Lodge, an extraordinary haven of healing and inspiration overlooking the N’Wanetsi River.

It has no pretentions. The decor, contours and colours carefully reflect the surrounding landscape, the curves of the walls, interior boulders and soothing furniture create an abiding sense of being at one with the bush and its animals. The suites are built into rocky outcrops, facing outward, splashed with light and a lot of space. You can sleep on your balcony under a net if you choose, and watch the passage of stars and moon.

The food is superb: fresh, imaginative, luxurious, and abundant.

Singita’s ethos, its driving force, is

The main pool at Lebombo Lodge

the protection and preservation of the environment and wild animals.

Luke Bailes, executive chairman, founded the Singita lodges ‘to protect the beautiful wildlife Africa has’ and has never lost sight of his goal. Singita, and its conservation partners, protect more than one million acres in Africa.

It has a strong anti-poaching protection unit and prioritises local communities for its staff and education programmes.

It’s a hugely inspiring place to stay, with a warmth and optimism in the air, including among the staff, the guides and even the flourishing animals.

Guests never want to leave.

The air is fragrant with the scent of eucalyptus and wild sage. Towering euphorbias and extraordinary primeval succulents are a unique feature of this area. Singita lodges have no fences, so the animals roam freely around the property. The incredible closeness of these majestic creatures stirs our deepest emotions. There’s a surge of adrenalin as the Land Rover parks just a yard or two away from a pride of 13 lions flicking their tails and blinking into the sunshine under a Baobab tree; then a female leopard tearing apart a two-weekold impala on a branch above my head as I watch horrified and mesmerised from below; a pack of wild dogs – muzzles covered in blood

from an earlier wildebeest kill; a cheetah standing all alone, silhouetted against a blood red and orange African sunset.

In this shocking new time of uncertainty – virus and impending climate chang – those willing to break out are itching to travel far away, to places that make a deep impression and a difference to one’s life after nigh on two years of deprivation.

This time, the experience touches us in new ways. Immersed in the raw world of wild animals where each day is a fight for survival, it hits you how these creatures have always lived as precariously as we now do. The only thing any of us can be sure of in this uncertain world is that our choices matter,

and choosing some of the last remaining extraordinary places left on the earth where conservation and community projects are sacrosanct counts towards all our futures.

There were many incredible moments at Singita. The tracker waving at an enormous cheeky female elephant and telling her to back off, as she trumpeted and approached us. Still moments where we sat in silence watching a mother and her baby rhino marking out territory. Moments that take you inside yourself, where the small problems evaporate, and you are left with only what is in front of you. And nothing is more important than living that moment to the fullest. www.singita.com

HOLIDAY IN LUXURY IN CAPE TOWN THE PRESIDENT HOTEL, an iconic 359-room internationally-acclaimed hotel in upmarket Bantry Bay in Cape Town is also a much-loved ‘home away from home’.

It is within walking distance of five synagogues and is surrounded by Cape Town’s top attractions, including the V&A Waterfront with designer shops, aquarium and restaurants, Camps Bay beach, the Cape Winelands, Jewish Museum and more.

The President has implemented the strictest health and safety protocols. Facilities range from an infinity pool and fitness centre to a wellness centre and spa. Dining options include five cafes, bars and restaurants with seasonal menus. From casual poolside dining at The Deck Bar and Terrace to smarter occasions at The Islands Restaurant and Senate Bar, there is something to suit every guest. www.presidenthotel.co.za

jewishnews.co.uk FOOD AND TRAVEL 21

TRAVEL

PEACEFUL

a i l g u P

A stunning coastline and an intriguing legacy of Jewish life both settled and transient await visitors to the heel of Italy’s ‘boot’, writes Beatrice Sayers

I

n the centre of the town of Santa Cesarea Terme in Puglia, on the walls of a café on the main road, is the astonishing sight of Hebrew signage.

A notice below the entrance to Porta D’Oriente (Gate of the Orient) café explains that the building was used by Jewish refugees during the war, the resort being one of four to have housed DP (displaced persons) camps.

The many holiday villas in these towns accommodated Jews who flocked to the liberated areas in the country in 1944 and, later, camp survivors who made their way to Italy in the hope of sailing to Palestine.

The main sign reads Poalei Yisrael (workers of Israel) and the wording above the doors reads mazkirut (secretariat) and hadar haochel (dining room).

The Pugliese are proud of their association with these Jews who stayed among them, and they are also remembered in the other

The beach at Otranto

22 FOOD AND TRAVEL jewishnews.co.uk

villages – Tricase, Santa Maria di Leuca and Santa Maria al Bagno; the last, on the region’s western coast, has a Piazza Golda Meir. The former Israeli prime minister is said to have got married in a DP camp in the village.

Puglia extends for 500 miles along the eastern coast – the heel of the Italian boot.

Covid was in abeyance across much of the continent when we travelled last year and we were lucky to get there during a window when quarantine for travellers to and from Italy had been lifted.

The dilemma on a visit to Puglia is whether to concentrate inland or on the coast. The alluring blue of the Adriatic and its beaches – some rocky, some with miles of white sand – will satisfy those looking to fly and flop.

We had a made a foray inland from our seaside base, Otranto, where we rented an Airbnb just outside the Old City. There is plenty to see, including a 15th century castle and an 11th century cathedral. A magnificent mosaic across the cathedral floor, installed in the 1160s, shows biblical themes, including the Garden of Eden and the Flood, as well as scenes from the life of Alexander the Great, all alongside a Tree of Life running up the central nave.

We took a day trip to Alberobello, known for its district of trulli – distinctive drystone houses with conical roofs, a design that enabled the 16th century dwellings to be

The trulli of Alberobello

easily dismantled in the event of a royal inspection, so keeping the local ruler’s tax bill down. Now they presumably contribute handsomely to the local tax take as they attract tourists throughout the year.

We also visited Porto Badisco, a deep rocky cove with good bathing and lovely views, which for centuries has attracted visitors to its thermal baths.

Earlier in the trip, the colours and scents of a working farm in southern Italy were an effective antidote to months of lockdown monotony in a north London townhouse.

Fly to the port city of Bari and the historic city of Matera with its rock dwellings, known as sassi, and stunning landscapes are within reach just an hour’s drive away, as is the medieval Scolanova synagogue in Trani, north along the coast. Jews have had a presence in Puglia for at least 2,000 years, but at the end of the 13th century toleration came to an end and they were forced to convert – and all synagogues were turned into Catholic churches. The synagogue in Trani was rededicated and opened for Jewish worship in 2006.

My daughter and I flew to Brindisi, 70 miles further down the coast, to spend our first few days doing as little as possible other than reading, which had been curiously difficult during lockdown. The ideal place to do this was at an agriturismo (farm stay). Ours, Masseria Baroni Nuovi, was a 20-minute drive inland and

offered a boutique hotel experience, including a gorgeous pool and grounds.

Along a path from the main courtyard, we walked out to explore the farm’s 400-acre estate and found olives, grapes, tomatoes, peaches, melons and a variety of prickly pear. For supplies and a bit of sightseeing, the medieval town of Mesagne is a short distance away. The most relaxing place to dine was Baroni Nuovi’s courtyard restaurant, where pasta was the speciality.

Orecchiette (little ears) are the signature shape of the region, often combined with broccoli, tomatoes or anchovies. It felt as though the region was all ears – just about every restaurant serves them.

Return flights in May from Stansted to Brindisi start at £79 with Ryanair or £260 from Heathrow with BA. Costs for a B&B stay for two at Masseria Baroni Nuovi start from £100. www.masseriabaroninuovi.it/en

Above: The pool at Masseria Baroni Nuovi.

Left: Fruit from the estate, including a variety of prickly pear, and pastries for breakfast

obello