J-ZINE EDIT : '24 - January 2024

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J-ZINE the ‘24 edit - january


of chats and cappuccinos, of curations and collabs!

your team Editor-in-Chief / Founder Jason Aarons jason@jewelleryafrika.com +27 (0)74 400 6677 Business Development Jenny Justus jenny@jewelleryafrika.com +27 (0)83 450 6052

Let no-one tell you that a superb cappuccino or a spiced Chai-Latte - with chocolate biscotti on the side with a hint of orange peel - is to be ignored.

Curations & Advertising Josie Lehy josie@jewelleryafrika.com +27 (0)62 513 2431

This is the stuff upon which many wonderful, successful and proactive collaborations and business ventures begin. I speak from experience and an infinite amount of these glorious beverages!

Global Curator Niyati Mendapara Niyati.mendapara@gmail.com Global Media Events Partner DiaMondaine Diamantaires Club Agnes Abdullahu, Founder & CEO info@diamondaine.com +32 486 57 23 30 Digital Marketing Partner Lynne Wilson Digital Marketing lynne@lynnewilson.co.za +27 (0) 82 332 8290 Marketing/PR Bongani Dlamini / Sophia Tau bongani@jewelleryafrika.com sophia@jewelleryafrika.com J-ZINE Edit Free Subscriptions jzine@jewelleryafrika.com General Enquiries hello@jewelleryafrika.com

It’s about taking time out to meet with people in and even out of, your industry. Getting to know them, why they do what they do, their stories, their passions, their personal narratives. It’s about listening AND hearing what they say. These exchanges for me, are some of the most rewarding personal and professional experiences I have. I continue to learn so much from our incredible jewellery designers, jewellery partners and consumers. It’s what they have shared which helps guide us in bringing you editorial content and curation opportunities which make a difference and make things happen. Our ‘24 Edit’ is incredibly cappuccino-friendly! Enjoy.

Jason Founder & Editor-in-Chief

The call of Afrika The Zuri Collection Artisan Jewellery Bulawayo, Zimbabwe


Afrikan jewellery and fashion fusion In the heart of Afrika, a sartorial revolution is underway as fashion and jewellery continue to unite to create a mesmerising tapestry of style, culture, and innovation. The vibrant synergy between these two realms is giving rise to a distinctive Afro-chic aesthetic that is captivating the global stage. Afrikan designers are redefining luxury with a nod to their rich heritage. Traditional fabrics, bold prints, and intricate beadwork seamlessly intertwine with contemporary designs, breathing life into garments that tell stories of resilience and celebration. Jewellery plays a pivotal role in this narrative, accentuating the beauty of Afrikan craftsmanship. Gleaming gold, ethically sourced gemstones, and tribalinspired adornments elevate outfits to wearable art. The clinking of bangles and the sway of statement necklaces create a symphony of elegance, echoing the diverse rhythms of the continent.

The Bam Collective


Maxhosa Africa

fashion & jewellery fusion fact #1

fashion & jewellery fusion fact #2

fashion & jewellery fusion fact #3

“Runways are adorned with models showcasing the kaleidoscope of Afro-chic jewellery-fashion fusion. Collaborations between jewellery designers, fashion designers and the Jewellery Afrika digital platform are proven and vital partnerships,” Jewellery Afrika, January 2024

“The African continent hosts 32 successful fashion weeks every year which bring together designers and fashionistas alike, and the African fashion industry is valued at $15.5bn worth of exports annually,” African Business, January 2024

“The growing prevalence of social media . . . means that images and videos shared by African designers and consumers can be seen, liked, and shared by viewers around the world in a matter of moments,” African Business, January 2024

Mantsho Lifestyle

Franc Elis

Viviers Studio


The heART of the matter You’ve most likely heard of art jewellery and perhaps even wondered what exactly it is. What defines it? The simplest definition of art jewellery is effectively a piece of art that is wearable. It’s a bit of a case of ‘you'll know it when you see it!’ And we’ve been seeing and hearing a lot about it. In fact, we’re forecasting art jewellery will become an exciting and most ‘wanted’ item for Afrikan jewellery collections in 2024! How do you describe or recognise art jewellery? Well, it’s very subjective too. Art jewellery communicates ideas and tells stories. It’s expressive and conveys a message. It stimulates an emotional reaction, can be provocative, and often many argue, takes courage to wear. J-ZINE - THE ‘24 EDIT - JANUARY

Consider this medium as ‘miniature sculpting’. Jewellery artists employ an astonishingly varied array of materials, such as polymer clay, resin, wood, glass, innovative plastics, and recycled post-consumer materials, to name just a few. The shapes and styles of art jewellery span a broad spectrum, drawing inspiration from modernism, surrealism, Dada, and beyond. Art jewellery operates without rigid rules, acknowledging neither right nor wrong, and it thrives on lack of constraint. One thing is definite – it often manifests as a diminutive package that harbours expansive ideas!

Crushed paper black silver earrings. Eric Loubser. The Tinsel Gallery.

Carla S Art Jewellery


Whose work is it anyway? As we were about to put this J-ZINE Edit to bed, we picked up this story. And for those of you who have read any of Alexander McCall Smith’s ‘The N0. 1 Ladies Detective Agency’, we definitely think this a case for Mma Precious Ramotswe! It’s particularly interesting in that it relates to copyright/ownership of designs. Have a read and let us know what you think. Have you had a similar experience? Email us at hello@jewelleryafrika.com and tell us YOUR story. On January 22, Sarah Diouf, the founder of Tongoro, took to social media to air her grievance about Balmain’s creative director Olivier Rousteing. Diouf accused Rousteing of copying her ‘Cairo’ face jewellery piece. She claimed to have launched the piece in May 2019 after being inspired by the Wodaabe tribe men’s make-up. She wrote on Instagram: “The visible similarity of the piece presented by @olivier_rousteing for his https://www.instagram.com/balmain/ FW24 Men’s collection to ours is a challenging and painful event, questioning yet again the actual regards Western brands claim to have towards J-ZINE - THE ‘24 EDIT - JANUARY

African creativity while openly saying being « inspired » by it … How long?” But it turns out that Diouf is not the original designer as she claimed. It is alleged that she copied that design from Kenyan designer Theresia Kyalo,

who released the jewellery range in February 2019. “Isn’t life funny? Having your work stolen by a brand and then having the said brand have the work restolen by yet another bigger brand.

Happy to have been alive long enough to see this come full circle,” commented Kyalo. However, it is believed that Kyalo is also not the originator of the design. Netherlands jewellery designer Emmy Jetty van Leersum launched face jewellery in 1974! Regardless of whom you may believe is the original designer or inspiration, copyright and jewellery design remains an ongoing debate worldwide.

A model wearing Kenyan jeweller Theresia Kyalo pieces of art. Photo courtesy X @TheresiaKyalo

We’ll keep you posted in this intriguing and indeed, everdeveloping Afrikan jewellery design story! Visual: BBC

Profile Ornament for Emmy van Leersum. Photo courtesy gijs bakker d e s i g n J-ZINE - THE ‘24 EDIT - JANUARY

Have you ‘Herd’? The Herd is a collaborative craft and design brand specialising in the creation of collectible contemporary pieces deeply rooted in Afrikan traditional practices and processes. Their unique creations are inspired by and pay homage to the iconic beading culture pioneered and mastered by women of Afrikan descent. Acknowledging that beading has historically been a profound form of communication and a labor of love for Afrikan women, The Herd aspires to contribute to the restoration of its authentic spiritual beauty, obscured over the years. “Our vision extends beyond mere artistic expression; we are dedicated to creating economic opportunities for our team. Through collaborative efforts in producing distinctive, highquality contemporary pieces, we honour and sustain the traditional techniques passed down from one generation to the next. Our work serves as both a celebration and preservation of Afrikan traditional techniques, uniquely viewed through the lens of contemporary design.” Visuals with thanks and acknowledgement: The Herd


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See it. love it. Paint it.

Visuals: The Official Tretchikoff Store

Renowned for his vibrant art, Vladimir Tretchikoff, a Russian-born South African artist, often depicted exotic and glamorous subjects. Many of his paintings feature women and men adorned with striking jewellery, reflecting Tretchikoff's fascination with the allure of ornate accessories. The intricate details in his portrayal of jewellery add a touch of opulence to his works, elevating the visual appeal and cultural richness of his art.



in february 2024

the ‘out of africa‘ edit

Jason Aarons jason@jewelleryafrika.com +27 (0)74 4006 77

Jenny Justus jenny@jewelleryafrika.com +27 (0)83 450 6052

Josie Lehy josie@jewelleryafrika.com +27 (0)62 513 2431

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