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> Mt Tomamu Although pricier, the ski-in, ski-out resorts here offer night-time skiing, a lively vibe and minimal chairlift lines. Hoshino Risonare has newly renovated rooms with saunas and spas and an Ice Village with igloo-chic hotel and bar. Enjoy free-flowing beer and friendly chats for $10 at Nininupuri, one of more than 20 dining spots. Day lift passes are $72. snowtomamu.jp
C H AIRL IF T AT K A M UI SK I L INKS
W HERE ELSE TO SKI SOLO IN HOKKAIDO
> Furano Surrounded by cosy restaurants and farmhouses, this ski field is little-known outside Japan and can be reached in about two hours on the Lavender Bus from Asahikawa Station. Hiring a car is an option but it can be expensive. Ski lift passes are $75 for the day. snowfurano.com
Katy Ehlers/@snowtographer, Kristoffer Ehlers
> Asahidake Famous for its deep powder, off-piste skiing and hiking, Asahidake is the highest mountain in Hokkaido. This uncrowded spot in the Daisetsuzan National Park has three basic runs and a few hotels and onsens. OMO7 Asahikawa runs snowshoeing treks here, when weather permits. asahidake.hokkaido.jp
“SUB MER GED IN T HE VOLCA NIC SPRIN G, H A IR FR O STED WI T H ICICLES, I WA N T TO PIN C H M YSELF.”
My muscles are now beginning to ache so I suggest a diversion. “We don’t really have an après-ski culture here,” laughs Akiko. But this is Japan and vending machines dispensing cold beer can be found almost everywhere. At the café at the bottom of the slopes we meet a skier from San Diego in search of beverages. “Have fun,” he says, grabbing his tinnie. “It’s hard not to though,” he calls out in a final farewell. “You know,” says Akiko, as we sip Sapporo Classic from frosted cans, “I think après-ski in Japan is onsen.” A winter storm descends, Narnia-like, over the Tokachidake Onsen as we arrive late the next morning. An hour’s drive from Asahikawa, this secret hideaway tucked into the foothills of Mt Tokachi, a volcano in the Daisetsuzan National Park, has indoor and outdoor hot springs overlooking the snowy landscape. Kamihoroso Hotel (kamihoroso.hotelshokkaido. com) offers packages from $100, which includes a return shuttle bus from Asahikawa Station, use of the onsen, meals and an overnight stay. Submerged in the volcanic spring, hair frosted with icicles, I want to pinch myself. The ease of solo travel in Japan, along with beautiful scenery, nurturing food and generous people, have made this one of the best holidays I’ve ever had. I’ve enjoyed my own banter, dined alone, tested my physical limits and learnt more about myself in a week than I could have in a year. They say you shouldn’t cut corners in life but that’s one snowy diversion I would take again.
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