REVIEW
E AT & D R I N K
Bar 25 Gastropub 25 S.E. Sixth Ave., Delray Beach; 561/359-2643 By CHRISTIE GALEANO-DEMOTT
I
Above, tacos and flatbread from Bar 25; inset, Chef Walter Pytel
IF YOU GO PARKING: Nearby lot parking HOURS: Monday-Friday, 12 p.m. – 12 a.m. Saturday, 11 a.m. – 12 a.m. Sunday, 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. PRICES: $11- $36 WEBSITE: bar25.com
124
bocamag.com
DINING GUIDE BRM JAN23.indd 124
••••
had dined at the Mellow Mushroom on Federal a couple of times, so I had that stark, corporate aesthetic floating in my mind when I approached Bar 25, the gastropub which took over the former pizza parlor’s space. I entered and was stunned by the design. The interior is sleek and polished without being pretentious or cold. Owner Anthony Giovanniello worked with Manhattan-based Celano Design Studio to create this welcoming brasserie-meets-chic-watering-hole. The space has a stylish exposed brick bar stocked with plenty of spirits and a spacious outdoor patio with plush seating. Giovanniello also hired chef Walter Pytel, a Culinary Institute of America grad, to helm the kitchen. As Northeasterners, they’re both taking inspiration from the region and translating it onto the menu, which boasts staples like Philly cheesesteak, Rhode Island clams, pierogis, Old Bay fries, white American cheese and plenty of mootz (aka mozzarella). Loyal to
its gastropub DNA, dishes here aren’t complicated or complex but satisfying, interesting takes on the familiar without being boring. Since dishes are meant to be shared here, we ordered several selections while sipping on our specialty cocktails. The Florida Smash ($16) transported me to a sunny tropical vacation—a perfect balance of freshness and sweetness coming from the passion fruit and mint blended with the bourbon and aperol. The first dish to hit the table was The Philly ($26). A perk to taking over a former pizza joint is the oven. Giovanniello wisely kept the fiery fixture, giving Pytel an opportunity to shine with his flatbreads. The thin dough is piled with shaved rib-eye, caramelized onions and peppers, which give it a slight spice, and it oozed nostalgic white American cheese. It was not overly filling—and a great way to start the evening. The Honey Buffalo Cauliflower Tacos ($16) and General Tso Fried Chicken ($18) arrived next.
The tacos had a balanced sweet and tangy spice to them, and the buttermilk ranch slaw topping wasn’t dripping in mayo, which I appreciated. The chicken, a recommendation from our waitress, was straightforward thin bites of sweet and crunchy. As an overindulgence, we ordered the Old Bay Fries ($11) with our Wagyu Sliders ($28) because the menu’s description of Old Bay seasoning with white American cheese sauce was too intriguing to pass up. However, for the price point I thought the dish would be more like cheesy nachos, when in reality it was a tin of fries with a dipping cheese sauce that, while warm and gooey when it arrived, quickly turned too hard to even dip. The sliders were a highlight, a generous portion that included three juicy patties piled high with blue cheese and a chunky bacon onion jam. Bar 25 is where you go when you want a relaxing yet swanky vibe to enjoy honest dishes that satisfy a variety of palates and cravings.
January 2023
12/2/22 12:15 PM