L'Anse-Saint-Jean - Fjord du Saguenay de l'Anse de Tabatière. Photo courtesy © Yves Ouellet. 42 • Byways
Quebec’s Saguenay Lac Saint-Jean: Visiting the Region of Giants By Jennifer Merrick
Byways • 43
C
Chapelle Tableau. Photo courtesy ©Jean Tanguay
’est Géant’ is the catchphrase for the Saguenay Lac Saint-Jean region located 125 miles north of Quebec City. Literally, it means “It’s Giant,’ but it doesn’t translate well. In French, it encompasses more, referring not only to the vast glacially-sculpted landscapes and the deep fjord edged with 350m-high cliffs, but also the region’s personality. A strong sense of place exists here, and you can see and feel it in the area’s culture, history and people. Our trip was filled with gigantic -- in every sense of the word -- adventures and sights, and here are a few of the highlights:
Val-Jalbert Historical Village One of the best preserved ghost towns in Canada, this pulp-mill company town was abandoned at the end of the 1920s, leaving behind wooden homes, a school, general store, the mill itself, and according to some, a few ghostly residents. We didn’t encounter any other-worldly folks when we spent the night in one of the restored homes, but we did get a glimpse of life in another era. We learned about a time when strict nuns ruled the school, 844 • Byways
Ste-Rose automne Saguenay. Photo courtesy ©Jean Tanguay.
children families were the norm, and the indoor washrooms and electricity the village homes had were considered the ultimate in modern living. The focal point of the town is Ouiatchouan Falls, which at 260 feet is higher than Niagara Falls. The name means white, boiling water in Innu, and its powerful and stunning cascades can be viewed from a glass platform lookout, or just as you wander through the village itself. Another view to remember, this one of Lac Saint-Jean, one of Quebec’s largest lakes, can be admired out of breath by climbing the 751 stairs to the top, or more easily by chairlift. Meals are served at the restaurant inside the thick stone walls of the mill. Chef Carl Murray, whose great grandfather worked in Val-Jalbert, honors the heritage of the place with locally sourced menu items, including spices indigenous to the Boreal Region. http://www.valjalbert.com/en
Musée du Fjord “Fjords are u-shaped valleys that were bulldozed by glaciers,” explains Brad Clark at the Musée du Fjord. The Saguenay Fjord, at 62 miles long and almost 245 feet deep, is one of the largest in the world. Besides its natural beauty, the glacial river boasts a unique eco-system comprised of both salt and fresh water species. Armed with shovels and wearing rubber boots, we learn firsthand about the fjords inhabitants on the Life between Land and Sea excursion. Kids and adults alike are thrilled to find clams, shrimps and other organisms with the help of our guides. Back inside, we explore the aquariums and exhibitions. The highlight is the touch pool where we hold a
Musee du Fjord. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.
Byways • 45
deo i V for k c Cli
46 • Byways
Vallée ÉternitéSaguenay. Photo courtesy ©Jean Tanguay.
Byways • 47
Kayaks in the Fjord du Saguenay.
slimy sea cucumber, a star fish and other creatures of the fjord. www.museedufjord.com/en/
Fjord-du-Saguenay Park Kayaking on the fjord is one of the best ways to experience its grandeur. Low to the water, there’s a connection to the nature that surrounds you. Several outfitters offer rentals and guided tours, including OrganisAction, who offer 3-hour excursions out of Fjord -du-Saguenay Park. At this 123-square-mile provincial park we set off on our paddling adventure, awestruck by the 650 ft-cliffs that tower above us. Peregrine Falcon nest here and sometimes seals bathe in the sun below. It’s a phenomenal place and the longer we paddled, the tinier I felt compared to the fjord’s awesomeness. Also at the park are camping sites, rustic shelters and 60 miles of hiking trails, including a challenging trek to Cap Éternité, which takes visitors up to a 23 ft.-high statue of the Virgin Mary. Placed here at the top of the towering cliffs by a travelling salesman who credited his 48 • Byways
Val-Jalbert Historical Village.
close escape from death to her divine intervention, the much-loved landmark has greeted ships and visitors since 1881 Other parks in the region include Point-Taillon, Monts Valin and Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park. At the latter, visitors can observe the most famous of the region’s giants -- whales! Thirteen species, including the endangered Beluga and the Blue Whale migrate in summer to feed off the rich krill found where the fresh water of the fjord meets the salt water of the St. Lawrence. Incidentally, the Blue Whale at 30 metres in length and over 180 tonnes in weight, is one of the largest creatures on our planet. Giant, you could say, like the region itself. More adventures in the region include, spotting moose, bears, elk and other indigenous wildlife on a train “safari” through the Nature Trail Park at the Saint Felicien Zoo; climbing into the cockpit of a jet fighter at the Air Defence Museum; sleeping in a treehouse at Jap Jaseux Park; and spelunking at the Le Parc de la caverne du Trou de la Fée. To find out more information about Saguenay Lac Saint-Jean, visit: https://www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca/en Bonne Voyage! About the Author. After teaching English as a Second Language abroad for 7 years, Jennifer has now “settled down” in Toronto. But her feet continue to itch and she now travels whenever
Jap Jaseux Treehouse. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.
she can with her family, writing about their adventures in numerous diverse publications, including Buffalo News, Latitudes, Virgin Atlantic Blog, Ontario Magazine, Forever Young, Montreal Families, vacay.ca and Today's Parent.
View from Treehouse Balcony. Photo courtesy Jennifer Merrick.
Byways • 49