The Jeju Weekly Issue 72

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www.jejuweekly.com

Publisher : Song Jung Hee Editor-in-Chief : Todd Thacker Assistant Editor : Darryl Coote Designer : Yi Miri Address : Rm. 306 Jeju Venture Maru Bldg. 217 Jungang-ro, Jeju City, Korea Phone : +82-64-724-7776, 702-8885 / Fax : +82-64-724-7796

Vol. IV No. 72

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

United by soccer The Jeju Weekly defenseman Graham Minser controls the ball in his own end against an attacking Park Kyung Hoon, head coach of Jeju United, during The Jeju Weekly vs. Jeju United Friendly Soccer Match on April 25 at United's clubhouse in Seogwipo City. For more coverage of the game, turn to page 16. Photo by Angela Kim

Editor’s Note: This issue of The Weekly is our first-ever online-only edition. We have given it the same attention to detail in the reporting, editing, and layout process as all 71 previous print editions. However, due to financial difficulties and the costs involved in printing and delivering the paper domestically and internationally, we are making a PDF of Issue 72 available for download on our Web site and through iTunes Newsstand. We sincerely hope you will consider subscribing or donating to The Weekly to help us continue reporting on all the exciting events and news here in Jeju. We hope to return to print in the near future. Meanwhile, please keep reading us online at our Web site and in digital form. Thank you for your support.

Going to the Yeosu Expo? Catch a few days on nearby Jeju By Angela Kim angelakim@jejuweekly.com

Under the theme of “The Living Ocean and Coast,� the International Exposition Yeosu Korea 2012 will be held in Yeosu for three months, starting May 12. The Expo is expected to attract over 8 million participants from over 100 countries. Given Jeju Island’s proximity to Yeosu by air and sea, the Expo Web Site lists Jeju as one of its 10 Expo-Recommended Tour Routes. A two-day

recommended tour includes beautiful tourism destinations like Jeju Stone Park, Yongnuni Oreum (volcanic cone), and the scenic cape of Seopjikoji, among others. “It is mostly said that the number of tourists [to the island] is not likely to decrease due to the Expo. Some even expect the number to increase,� said Hong Suk Gyun, director of marketing for the Jeju SelfGoverning Provincial Tourism Association (JTA). From the start of this year to April 22, the island saw an increase of 12.5 percent more tourists compared to the same period last year. Even though

The life of a ‘frontier’ Daum employee Yang Hee Jae has spent the last 7 years with friends and family on the mainland jealous of her posting By Angela Kim angelakim@jejuweekly.com

Courtesy ([SR <HRVX .RUHD Organizing Committee

the increase was expected to be over 10 percent due to recent tourism trends, Hong Continued on page 2

As a member of the Customer Service Planning Team at Daum Communications, Yang Hee Jae was transplanted from offices in Seoul to Jeju City in 2004. Her transfer was the beginning of Daum’s relocation to the island which was officially completed on April 13 with the unveiling of their headquarters, Daum Space. Yang, 33, recently sat down with The Weekly to talk about the transition from the bustling metropolis to this sleepy island, the envy of her friends and family members, and finding a balance Continued on page 7

02 Jeju Now INSIDE Festivals

pages 4-5

In honor of shellfish

Business

page 6

Jeju passes Daum’s stress test

In Focus

page 7

A ‘frontier’ Daum employee

Man on the street

The Jeju Weekly Continued from page 1 personally believes that the number of tourist visiting Jeju will increase approximately 5 to 7 percent compared to that of 2011 during the Expo term. He also mentioned that roughly 900,000 visitors came to Jeju last May and August, which is the busiest season for Jeju tourism, and if the increase rate is over 10 percent, the island will top 1 million tourists in a month for the first time. The JTA will sign an MOU with Korail Jeonnam Branch, and Namhae Express Co. LTD on April 27. Through the MOU, the three parties will work together to attract more tourists to Jeju. They are currently developing a series of package tour programs, which include the Expo, transportation, and a trip on Jeju. For those who purchase the package tour, Korail offers a 50 percent discount for KTX tickets, while Namhae Express will give a 30 to 50 percent discount for the ferry from Nokdong to Jeju, and the JTA has designed a tour program on the island for the occasion. It can be purchased at official Korail tourist centers. Jeju Tourism Organization and Korail Tourism Development, which is a subsidiary company of Korail, also signed an MOU to attract more tourists to the island during the Expo. From Jeju to Yeosu, Korean Air offers a direct flight every Friday and Sunday. However, Hong believes that more flights will be added to the schedule next month.

Courtesy ([SR <HRVX .RUHD 2UJDQL]LQJ &RPPLWWHH

There will be another ferry added to the Nokdong - Jeju route. Starting on May 17, Seaworld Express Ferry Co. LTd will also change its ferry linking Mokpo and Jeju. The new ferry, “Queen Star,” can reach speeds of 38 knots, reducing the travel time from 4 hours and 50 minutes to 2 hours and 50 minutes. Also, it will be able to seat 880 passengers and 200 cars. A standard day pass costs 33,000 won, and a peak day pass, which can be used on the opening day and other special event days, is

Traveller’s Guide pages 9 - 12

‘Town Meeting’ addresses concerns, improvements for JGEC Lack of community, facilities, and transportation raised as key issues for international education plan

Shopping parade

By The Jeju Weekly editor@jejuweekly.com

www.jejuweekly.com

page 14

Treat yourself to a ‘nature retreat’

Sports

page 16

A brilliant night at the clubhouse

In color

pages 18-19

Flower power

40,000 won. Discounted prices are offered for children, youth, and seniors over 65. A 5 percent early bird sale will be offered through its official Web site until April 30. Expo ticket holders can get a 30 percent discount on KTX to Yeosu Expo Station. Yeosu City offers a city tour bus to its visitors (ystour.kr). Also, all intra-city buses in Yeosu will be free for tourists and Yeosu residents until August 12. For more information on Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea, visit eng.expo2012.kr.

page 8

What does local reporting mean to you?

Seogwipo spots

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

The first “Town Meeting” of the Jeju Global Education City (JGEC) was held on April 24 in the Hallasan room of the JGEC Office, Seogwipo City, allowing residents to publicly voice their issues and concerns. The main issues raised during the discussion included a need for infrastructure, the current lack of community due to the absence of communal areas, and the pressing need for improved public transportation. Jeju Governor Woo Keun Min, JGEC Office Director Oh Soon Geum, and other Jeju Free International City Development Center (JDC) employees were on hand to field questions and listen to the concerns of residents living in this ambitious new city. After speeches by Governor Woo; keynote speeches by Kyonghui Sexton, a resident within the city; and Amos Stamp-Jerabek, dean of Student Life at Korea International School (KIS) Jeju, the conference was opened to the floor. The first major concern to be

addressed was by Sexton during her speech where she lamented at length of the need for facilities, like a supermarket, parks, and cafés. “Life here is very boring I found,” said Sam Hong to the agreement of many in the room. There are no pubs, or even a decent restaurant for adults to relax at, he said. Street lights, a banking facility, and a supermarket which sells an array of products are other facilities he mentioned that were necessary to improve life in the JGEC. The lack of a convenience store and a café resonated with much of the audience and capitalized most of the hour-long conversation. “I was so excited,” said Sexton concerning a rumor she had heard earlier in the week that a convenience store would be opening in her building. She is dubious of the claim though, since a Paris Baguette scheduled to open in March, never did. The owner of the ill-fated bakery and café was in the audience and said “I tried my best to open the bakery” but due to the city’s small population, and with no subsidiaries or Continued on page 3

Competing Asian science parks learn best practices on Jeju

The Biz-Matching room where companies networked with potential partners. Photo by The Jeju Weekly

By The Jeju Weekly editor@jejuweekly.com

Over 300 of Asia’s top personnel in scientific technology and industry as well as heads of state from nine countries including Finland, Russia, Japan, and Korea came to Jeju for the 7th Asian Science Park Association (ASPA) Leaders Meeting. In its 10 year history, this event marks the first time for the Jeju Science Park to host an international conference. This three-day conference, from April 23 to 25 at the Ramada Plaza Jeju Hotel and the Elite Building within the Jeju Science Park (JSP), was held with the purpose of discussing ways to better utilize science parks in the region. A science park is as a well-organized complex that serves as a foundation to further knowledge industries Continued on page 3

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

Festivals 03

The 4th Gapado Barley Festival is on now By Kim Jung Lim supuleit@jejuweekly.com

www.jejuweekly.com

A small island off the south coast of Jeju is launching its annual month-long festival celebrating the green waves not of the ocean, but of its historical crop: barley. Gapado, only 0.84 km2 in area and located 5.5 kilometers south of Moseulpo Port in Seogwipo City, is holding the 4 th Gapado Barley Festival from April 23 to May 20. This year the festival began three days later than last year due to poor weather, and was extend for a month in order to maximize the number of visitors to the festival. The 180,000 pyeong (0.6 km2) of swaying green barley fields is ready to welcome one and all. According to Jin Myeong Whan, Gapado village chief and festival organizer, the history of Gapado's relationship to barley dates back to 1842, during the Joseon dynasty. The island began cultivating barley during the reign of the 24th Joseon King Heonjong, when it was a daily food staple. The type of barley grown on Gapado (called hyangmaek in Korean) is used these days for beer, sprouts the earliest in Korea, and grows twice as large as other types.

The color of the barley turns to gold in May. The mostly flat island provides such beautiful vistas of the green and gold barley fields that it has always attracted tourists. This is why in 2009 the village decided to hold its first annual barely festival. This year, visitors will have access to various programs including treks in the barley fields, making and flying kites, making barley bibimbap, a brown turban shell picking contest, the chance to catch sea food with one’s bare hands, watching women divers at work, a sea food auction, a singing contest, and more. Many booths selling Jeju specialty products or food will be open for business as well. “Gapado is becoming a ‘carbonfree island,’” said village chief Jin. “People are using electricity instead oil and we use no agricultural chemicals. You can see how the island has changed when you go to this festival.” He added, “Enjoy the scenery of the wonderful green barley with the background of Mt. Halla and Sanbangsan. Come here and make memories.” For further inquires, call the Gapa village office at 064-794-7130.

Schedule

Transportation

A slide show presentation about future additions to the education city in Seogwipo City. Photo by The Jeju Weekly

Continued from page 2 governmental financial support, it would not be financially possible. “The government must spend money to establish [these kinds of services] until when private business people can establish their own businesses,” said Hong, which was repeated by many in the audience. In response, a representative of the JDC said that their hands were tied concerning private businesses. “What [the JDC] can do or what it can’t do in terms of city development, for example the convenience store, the private section is responsible,” said JDC Edu-City Department Deputy General Manager Jo Young-suk. Nigel Schofield, a resident and a teacher within the city, said that he felt “very isolated” within the JGEC. “At the moment, I feel there is very little in terms of community because we have no community center or hub. We’ve got no parks really … there’s nowhere for adults as well as children to go,” he said. Also, concerning transportation, another issue often raised, for someone without a car like Schofield, “to go

to a café or for me to go shopping, or me to go for medical assistance … I have to travel for at least three or four hours.” Peter Daly, principal of the North London Collegiate School Jeju (the first school to have been established within the JGEC) thanked the JDC for offering the forum and commended them on their ambition, but also warned that if certain things don’t improve there will be ramifications. “I think it’s clear and obvious there are problems and I do think we have to take this seriously, more seriously than you probably think,” said Daly, reminding the room that international teachers don’t teach for the money, but for the experience. “Unless you get this right, and you must get it right very quickly or what could happen — and I’m not being doom struck about this — but international teachers are very difficult persons to recruit.” The JDC said that they will take all the concerns and suggestions to the governor and will have a response within a month. No specific date was set for their response.

Continued from page 2 like IT from a business point of view. The JSP, built by the Jeju Free International City Development Center and opened on March 25, 2010 in Ara-dong, Jeju City, was established to help bring to life the government’s goal of making Jeju a Free International City. Under the theme of “Future Strategies of Asian Science Parks — Competitive Business in the Smart Era” there were two plenary sessions, two ASPA Round Table meetings, a tour of the JSP, and a few exhibition and networking sessions. “I believe this meeting will be a valuable opportunity for experts in various fields to have an in-depth discussion about strategies and directions for science parks in the future to boost Asian economies,” wrote JDC Chairman and CEO Byon Jong Il on the conference’s Web site. “Also, it will be an ideal place for business people to build new network[s] and promote business exchange through business-related events.” For the JSP, this event marks an important turning point in its development. “Since [the] Jeju Science Park’s establishment, we actually focused on constructing, like building this Elite Building and Smart Building for this support system,” said event organizer Park Sun-Ja of the JDC Science Park Department. “It was hardware development [before] but from now on we are focusing on software development to help the tenant companies to grow as global enterprises.” Park remarked that with over 75 companies under its wing, the JSP was doing “quite well” and that this conference, through its networking opportunities, “is the first step for us to actually help our tenants go to the global market.” Established as a non-governmental organization in Japan in 1997, ASPA is attempting to grow the Asian economy through mutual cooperation and the sharing of proven industry and scientific practices as well as create an Asian business community at the local and regional levels.

04 Festivals

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

A family festival in honor of shellfish The 4th Udo Sora Festival kicked off April 13

By The Jeju Weekly

www.jejuweekly.com

editor@jejuweekly.com

On a wet and overcast April 13, the hamlet island of Udo off the coast of Seongsan, Seogwipo City, kicked off the 4th Udo Sora Festival. Starting at 11 a.m. with the opening of the event and the tape-cutting ceremony at 12 p.m., this three-day festival, from April 13 to April 15, honors sora (turban shell shellfish), a food that the island has become known for. The village haenyeo (diving women) collect the shellfish from the ocean floor. Though the weather conditions were not ideal, over 2,000 people attended the festival throughout the day, and as the skies began to clear in the afternoon, and copious amounts of alcohol were consumed, the atmosphere became jovial. And it was not an uncommon sight to see grandparents taking to the stage in Haumokdong Hang to dance and sing to their hearts content. As a family-oriented festival, most of the events were for all ages with any competition treated with a light heart. At 1 p.m. Sora Car Racing was held giving attendees a chance to try and outmaneuver their competitors with remote control cars through a sora-littered race track. Due to the weather, the fish catching event at 2 p.m. was canceled. At 3 p.m. the Sora Olympics was held offering three events; a dance off, two forms of sora stacking, and attempting to gauge 5 kg of sora. Between 5 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. there was the opening ceremony, performances, a youth festival, and another batch of Sora Olympics. Even though there was much for entertainment, the festival honoree was not overlooked. Everywhere plates of sora were found in abundance. A plate of four to five sora could be purchased for 10,000 won and based on the frantic state of the cooks working the barbeques, they were in high demand. Kim Chang Baek, a resident of Udo visiting the festival with his nineyear-old daughter, said that many people from Jeju and the mainland visit this festival and that it is a good way for the island to become known by the rest of the country. He added that it promotes the island’s staple agriculture and fishery products like sora and peanuts.

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

The Jeju Weekly

Festivals 05

06 Business

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

Jeju passes Daum relocation stress test Korea’s tech and media giant opens its HQ here after an 8-year transition from Seoul

The Daum HQ opening ceremony at the Jeju Science Park, Jeju City, on April 13. Photo by Angela Kim

By Angela Kim

www.jejuweekly.com

angelakim@jejuweekly.com

At the start of 2004, Daum Communications Founder Lee Jae Woong posed a simple question to his Seoul-based employees: “If we could move the company, where would you like to move to?” Many of the employees who faced long commutes, urban congestion and pollution, and expensive rents in the capital replied, listing their various hometowns as the ideal choice. Some even suggested Hawaii. The founder’s question soon took on a life of its own becoming an official project complete with a relocation task force. Along with cities vying for the potential benefits of a lucrative tech company like Daum, Jeonju, Chuncheon, Jeju, and Gyeongju, all threw their hats into the ring with incentives like reduced taxes and land costs. However, in the end Jeju got the nod. The island attracted Daum because its philosophy was completely different from mainland contenders. Apart from the relatively pristine environment and robust economy, the island offered employees the possibility to balance work and life, an essential aspect of Daum’s corporate culture. By March 2004, an agreement was signed between Daum Communications Founder Lee and Jeju Special SelfGoverning Province Governor Woo Keun Min (then in his fourth term) to move Daum headquarters to the island. This was the first time such a large company would permanently move its main office of operations to Jeju. Though a shot in the arm for the

province, the public was initially cool to the announcement of Daum’s arrival. And not only Jeju citizens, but there were some in the company who were skeptical. “At that time, Jeju was only known as a tourist attraction. Many said it wouldn’t work,” said Daum Corporate Strategy Group Manager Choi Jeong Hye in an interview with The Weekly. “Many shareholders and investors questioned the viability of relocating to Jeju.” By April, 16 employees had traveled to the island and set up shop in a rented guest house in Yusuam village, Jeju City. As spring turned to summer, the entire 180 employees in the media-center arm of Daum, known as Media Daum, came down to Jeju. According Choi, this June relocation of Media Daum was a test. It was thought that since this department relied heavily on online and offline communication with most of the other major Seoul-based media companies, if no major problems emerged then Daum could safely relocate the rest of its core workforce — the developers — who are not constrained by physical location to work their online magic. As time went on, Daum gradually began to send small teams to the island to work on projects that would last several months. “Koreans are used to [things being] fast pace. However, we wanted to prove that slow and gradual relocation works better to people outside of the company and to our employees,” said Choi. In February 2006, to accommodate the increasing number of employees assigned to Jeju, the Daum Global Media Center was built near Jeju National University (JNU) in the Jeju Science Park. The building, which currently houses Media Daum, Daum News, Agora, and various other corporate departments, was an early

landmark of Daum’s relocation. “There’s something more [to the relocation] than monetary benefit,” Choi stressed. “The company makes us to think how is it like to balance work and life on the island.” An internal survey of 1,241 Daum employees conducted in April 2011 revealed that 79.6 percent are satisfied with their Jeju relocation. Also, 47.2 percent of employees who worked in the Seoul office last year were willing to come work at the Jeju HQ. On April 5, Daum officially became a registered Jeju company. However, there are a number of departments which remain on the mainland, like Advanced R&D, and Communications, which need convenient access to infrastructure, academia, and corporations on the

mainland. Most of these employees commute regularly to Jeju as projects progress. It may be considered a win-win by many, but this did not come cheap for taxpayers. To attract one of Korea’s largest Internet corporations to the island, the Jeju Special Self-Governing Province invested a total of 10.6 billion won (US$ 9.3 million), both from national and provincial coffers. Under an Investment Attraction Ordinance, the province granted Daum 10.2 billion won in subsidies, among which 6.9 billion won covered 45 percent of the land purchase price, and 3.3 billion won to cover 15 percent of the facility investment costs, among other incentives. Also, as a Korean company registered in the Jeju Science Park, the company will be exempt from paying corporate and income taxes for the next three years, followed by a 50 percent reduction for the two years after that. However, the provincial government has projected that their investment will pay off soon. In 2005, the Jeju Special SelfGoverning Province announced that because of the relocation it expects a 6.6 percent growth of Gross Regional Domestic Product (GRDP) by 2014 and the creation of 1,000 new jobs island-wide. Starting in 2013, Daum could start contributing at least 400 billion won, or $ 351 million, to Jeju’s GRDP. Of course, since this is only the beginning of the Jeju-Daum grand experiment, questions remain. “We don’t see [unknowns] as problems, rather we look at them as challenges,” said Choi. According to Choi, most Daum employees communicate through an intranet messenger system and by email. However, to hold meetings between employees in Seoul and Jeju, all meeting rooms are equipped with a video teleconference system which is constantly being upgraded. “‘HQ’ is more a symbolic term,” Choi said. Daum Communications currently has some 1,600 employees, of which 350 are Jeju natives. It has seen its net profit increase 130 percent since 2004 and the Continued on page 7

Photo courtesy Daum Communications

In Focus 07

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

The life of a ‘frontier’ Daum employee Yang Hee Jae has spent the last 7 years with friends and family on the mainland jealous of her posting Continued from page 1 between work and life here on Jeju.

How long have you worked for Daum Communications and when did you come to Jeju?

It’s my 11 th year at Daum Communications. I came down to Jeju in April of 2004. I was one of

interesting happen when you first came to Jeju?

Since most of us communicate through email or messenger, there was no work-related discomfort. However, being away from my family and friends was rough. I would sometimes go near the airport and cry as I would watch flights depart. I would fly to Seoul about three times a months, but now I only

there is no traffic. Also, housing prices are reasonable. Most people my age living in Seoul want to buy a house, but house prices are not affordable. But I recently bought a house [here] with my husband.

Did you find a balance between work and life here in Jeju?

In terms of self-development, where you are doesn’t really

I started to learn to golf on Jeju. In Seoul, I wanted to learn, but I couldn’t because I never had time. Now, I’m the best female golfer among the Daum Jeju employees Yang Hee Jae. Photo by Angela Kim

the frontier members. I went to Seoul for about a year or so for my wedding, so I lived on Jeju for seven years.

www.jejuweekly.com

What was your first impression of Jeju back in 2004?

At first, I felt as if it was a picnic. I didn’t think I would stay here for more than two years. But now I’m used to living on the island, I feel confined when I visit Seoul.

How did Daum’s relocation affect your work?

Two of our team members are still in Seoul. They stay in the Seoul office to communicate with other teams and departments. We do our jobs here and they do their jobs in Seoul. I don’t think it’s much different.

D i d

a n y t h i n g

visit Seoul once every two months or so.

What do your friends and family in Seoul think of you working on Jeju?

Everyone says they’re jealous, but most people think it is impossible for them to come to Jeju to live. I often upload pictures of Jeju on the Web for my friends to see. Some say they’d move to Jeju if his or her company was located here.

What makes Jeju a more attractive place to live compared to Seoul?

For me, the toughest part of living in Seoul was the commuting time. It usually took me an hour and a half to get to work and vise versa. With traffic, sometimes it took longer. Best part of living on the island is that

Continued from page 6 number of employees increase by 98 percent. In 2007, Daum Communications established a subsidiary on Jeju called Daum Service. It is made up of 400 employees, among whom 95 percent are from the island. The company has also worked with JNU to aid students in developing practical skills. “DAUM Track”was created at the university

influence what you’ll do. Hard workers will work hard regardless of where they work. When I was in Seoul, I never came to the office on weekends. But here on Jeju, me and my co-workers come to the office to take care of our little garden, to drink coffee, and to just relax. Also, we get to experience things we don’t have easy access to in Seoul. I started to learn to golf on Jeju. In Seoul, I wanted to learn, but I couldn’t because I never had time. Now, I’m the best female golfer among the Daum Jeju employees. Likewise, some of my coworkers are learning leisure sports like horseback riding and skin SCUBA. I think those are some of the biggest merits of living on Jeju.

Where do you think is

through an industry-academia collaboration agreement, which helps JNU computer engineering students. On April 13, some 180 people, including Governor Woo and Jeju Olle Founder Suh Myung Sook, gathered at the new Daum campus called “Daum Space” to congratulate the completion of the company’s relocation. The first of four buildings planned for this location is called “Daum Space. 1.” Its

the most beautiful place on Jeju?

I love Mt. Halla in winter with the snow, as well as oreum (volcanic cones). I like the view looking down from Darangshi oreum because I can see Udo, Seongsan Sunrise Peak, and the ocean.

Were there any inconveniences?

Because there are no department stores on the island, I often have to shop online. Though, we have to pay 2,500 won more to get items shipped to Jeju, we all make do. Also, visiting my relatives during holidays is not easy. My in-laws live in Jinju, so I have to fly from Jeju to Jinju, from Jinju to Seoul, then back to Jeju.

It has only been two weeks, so it’s hard to tell. Other than my desk, I’d say Illy Café. There are a few beverage bars where I can get instant coffee, but it can’t beat the taste of Illy’s coffee.

What is it like to live on Jeju?

I feel that I can work hard on the weekdays and enjoy my weekends. Living here is a journey in itself. It’s different everyday. On my days off, I could go see flowers, the ocean, mountains — Jeju has a lot to offer. Just last week, I went to see the cherry blossoms at the Jeju National University Campus. For now, I’m living on the island because I have my job, but I want to live here even if I leave Daum, if I can.

What is your favorite spot in Daum Space.1?

exterior is designed to resemble the island's volcanic cones (oreum), while the interior has somewhat of a look and feel of Jeju’s UNESCO World Natural Heritage designated lava tubes. In keeping with the amenities enjoyed by top firms in Silicon Valley like Google and Facebook, “Daum Space. 1” is equipped with various facilities to create an amiable work environment. Employees have access to a library, and meeting rooms with

themes such as equation and puzzle solving. They can enjoy gaming on flat screen TVs or play ping pong and pool in the game room. They can make use of laundry services, showers, and a large chefrun cafeteria. Daum is currently designing its second building, "Daum Space. 2," which will be equipped with project rooms, a child daycare center, and more.

08 Opinion

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

English news and Jeju

By The Jeju Weekly

editor@jejuweekly.com

How do you feel about English media on the Island? Gun Yeong Choi, 21 University student

Suh Un Yuk, 27 Tourist, marketing director

I think English news is so difficult but very good because I want to speak English well and I want to study English so when I read internet news or English news, my English ability improves. We have to think English is not difficult and we have to study English hard, that’s my opinion.

I don’t have an opinion. There are people on Jeju who study English and study abroad so I think there is a place on Jeju for English news. It’s not only for students to study english but it is also for foreigners outside the country to get news about Jeju.

Ko Eun Young, 22 University Student

Harold Dale English teacher on Chujado,

I don’t know what kind of English media there is on Jeju. A lot of programs teach you about the tourism terms so I think it is very good for visitors to learn about those terms. If those are only in English people feel it is too hard to read it or listen to it but if the focus is more on tourism it would be easier for people to understand it. The news should focus on Jeju Island and promotion because not many people know about Jeju. Not necessarily advertising but that way it is more accessible to people outside of Jeju. I believe that most people watch it to learn english because it is good for them to have English skills to get a job.

I know there are three outlets. Arirang radio doesn’t get to Chuja so that’s not an option. I do read The Jeju Weekly on the Internet, I do check that out, I keep up. One of my friends does this sports writing, Ade, so I check up with his articles. I tend to actually do a lot on the Internet with checking up now, especially with the [US] presidential race back home. CNN.com, MSNBC — Got to check out the bad guys, FOX. I love them, I check them out all the time. You got to get some humour in there every once in awhile. I’m going to be honest with you: I think The Jeju Weekly is really good. I think that maybe if there were more chances of it getting distributed but I could be wrong because I live out on Chuja so I don’t necessarily know if it is distributed widely here.

Lee Sung Moon, 22 Military Service

Ari Sindel English teacher

English media in Jeju is very critical for those who study English. I am currently in the army serving my country but I am learning English there. When I listen to the BBC or CNN I don’t have any background information so it is very hard for me to know what they are talking about. But if they are talking about Jeju Island I know alot about it so it’s easier for me to learn. Since Jeju is a free international city a lot of foreigners come to Jeju but they have limited resources in English. So, for foreigners to get all this information in English, I believe it brings the foreigners together and brings them closer to Jeju.

I feel like English media on Jeju, we get some good Articles in The Weekly, but apparently I keep hearing about musical appearances and cultural happenings, and I see posters in Korean all over the place, but I never seem to know when any kind of cool music is actually happening until after it happens. [To fix this] tell the idiot promoters to call up the English newspapers when they’re going to do something, because we’ll come. I don’t watch TV, I’ve never seen, never listened to the radio in English, I’ve never watched the Jeju TV program.

Putting in a good word for a ‘community’ paper

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Letters to the Editor PleDVH NHHS \RXU OHWWHUV XQGHU ZRUGV DQG LQFOXGH \RXU IXOO QDPH DQG FRQWDFW LQIRUPation. Facebook.com/JejuWeekly Twitter.com/JejuWeekly Gplus.to/JejuWeekly KoreanNewsFeeds.com editor@jejuweekly.com

South Korea’s official commitment to “internationalization� is a praiseworthy project, even if it seems at times to be little more than bureaucratic lip service — just as much as is necessary to try and train a generation of multilingual, critical thinking workers to greater diversify the economy. Regardless, it’s an ardent wish, and not one limited to government: individual citizens are also welcome to the prospect of a Korea that is more multicultural. The effort to dismantle the heavy closed lids of a weary, superstitious, parochial, xenophobic post-Joseon cultural blind is an effort that should not only be taken up by Koreans — whether bureaucrat or private citizen — but is also one that should be taken up by the foreign nationals living here who are serious about their adopted country and who desire its well-being. The responsibility is on this latter group to help internationalize a given country from within, adopting local customs within reason, learning the local language, making friends, intermarrying (a particularly enjoyable aspect of this process) — and having a newspaper. The Jeju Weekly is not just a newspaper “for us�: it is a paper that connects expats with locals, localizing the one, internationalizing the other, and enriching both. Focusing solely on the expat communities for a moment (differentiated as they sometimes are by language), a newspaper the caliber of The Jeju Weekly does tremendous work, often too subtle to notice, in keeping such communities in touch with themselves. This past week’s friendly footy match was wholly organized by The Weekly, having made good use of the fruitful ties it has forged with Jeju United. I’ll close by saying that I’m aware of the financial difficulties The Weekly is facing, and how it might close within the season. Given what we know of how much the paper does for us, I’m sure we can all anticipate what we’d be losing were the presses to stop running. Brett Crehan, Jeju City

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Jeju in May, one fine spring day By Kang Moon Gyu contributor@jejuweekly.com

Mr. Kang Moon Gyu is the head of the Institute of Ecology and Culture for Mt. Halla and ex-head of the editorial department of the Halla Ilbo. He is interested in preserving the ecology and culture of Jeju. In early May, Jeju is bustling with life. After the pink petals of the cherry blossom trees fall to the ground, the island is covered in waves of yellow yuchae flowers and green barley. During spring, the island is a patchwork of pinks, yellows, and greens. May, called “the queen of four seasons� in Korea, is certainly famous in Jeju, both now and in centuries past. Of course, this is not unique to Jeju. The world over, poets have written about spring and flowers. But in Korea, Jeju is a scenic haven for romantic poets. Bangseonmun Valley, a gate to the Taoist celestial land, is the site of a spring flower festival began by poets who long ago would carve their poems into boulders. The Hwajeon Festival of Jung-i village is another noteworthy spring season event. At this time of year, the regional government invites all islanders to the village to

celebrate and eat hwajeon, a pan-fried sweet rice cake made with flower petals. Government officials take the time to listen to the difficulties of the people and encourage unity. Spring here is a pleasant time not only for people, but also for nature. Flowers decorate fields stretching from the sunny seashore to the island's highest point, the 1,950-meter peak of Mt. Halla. After spending a long, boring winter in barns, horses and cattle wander about the fields, grazing on fresh green sprouts. Unfortunately, spring is too short. A Jeju traditional song called bongjiga (bongji means blossom, and ga means song) is a plaintive melody about falling flower blossoms. The song’s chorus goes like this: "Flowers are fading. Flowers are fading. Flowers are fading from springflowering shrubs." Considering that the song was sung by young gisaeng (a kind of Korean geisha), the words “flowers are fading� actually have a dual meaning. It implies the change of the seasons, and the entry of young ladies into society as married women (and the loss of one's virginity). On this fine spring day, I'd like to invite you to our island, where spring has come in earnest. (Translation by Yang Young Jae)

Festivals in May The 4th Gapado Barley Festival (April 23 - May 20, Gapado Island) Gapado, a small island with 200 or so residents, offers a tranquil getaway from the hustle and bustle of Jeju. The trip to Gapado begins with a 20-minute ferry ride from Moseulpo Port. You can really enjoy the hidden charms of the island if you take an overnight trip. Of note, the pure green barley in the morning dew and the golden color of these same fields in the red-orange of sunset are a must-see when visiting Gapado. During the festival, you'll see barley fields sway gently in the wind. The 9th Bangsunmun Festival (May 12 - May 13, Bangsunmun valley) Bangsunmun is a rocky valley in the woods of the upper region of Jeju's longest river, Hancheon. During the event, some paintings and poems about spring will be exhibited in the outdoor valley gallery. Bomok Jaridom Festival (May, Bomok, Seogwipo City) Jaridom, or damselfish, is found in the northwest of the Pacific Ocean near the coast of Jeju Island. At the festival, you can participate in a jari-catching event (a hands-on experience) and sample some jari for free.

Left, islanders make Hwajeon (a pan-fried sweet rice cake made with flower petals) to celebrate spring. Photo by Yang Young Jae. Right, Jaridom (damselfish), found in the Pacific Ocean off Jeju's shores are celebrated during the Bomok Jaridom Festival. Photo courtesy Jeju Special Self-Governing Province

Info

Jeju International Airport Jeju Port

Free Interpretation Hotline 1588-5644 (Press 1 for English, 2 for Japanese, 3 for Chinese)

Jeju Welcome Center a

Jeju Tourism Organization (www.ijto.or.kr)

Jeju Local Bus Terminal

Korea Tourism Organization (www.visitkorea.or.kr)

Tapdong (Jeju City)

Jeju Special Self-Governing Province Tourism Association (www.hijeju.or.kr)

Seogwipo City

Police 112

Hallasan National Park

Jeju National University Hospital (Jeju City) (Press 1)

Jungmun Tourist Resort

Seogwipo Medical Center (English operator available)

Jungbang/Cheonjeyeon Falls (Seogwipo City)

Shopping parade 7KH :HHNO\ UHYLHZV D P ORQJ pedestrian-only street in Yeondong (Yeondong 7-gil), Jeju City

TREBISE Before hitting the links, look your best by picking up some fashionable golfing threads from Korea’s own TREBISE, known for producing high-quality and practical golf and leisure clothing. With shoes, socks, belts, golf gloves, caddie bags, wrap skirts, and a variety of golf fashion items, you will be dressed to the nines for all 18 holes. TREBISE products have a very sleek design that is a marriage between the classic look with a modern feel. 272-49 Yeondong Jeju City Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Phone: 064-712-7218

Royal Screen Golf Academy To suit your taste, or the weather’s temperament, you can practice on either outdoor or indoor driving ranges. It’s a year-round, 24-hour golf range. The indoor screen driving range can accommodate up to 50 simultaneous golfers. The outdoor driving range has 13 right-handed tees and a single left-handed tee. The range provides ample numbers of individual lockers, as well as karaoke rooms, a gym, showers, a computer room, and a rest area. Also, if you forget your clubs or golf shoes at home, no problem, you can borrow them from the club at no extra cost. You can receive 10% off if you stay at either THE Hotel or the Royal Hotel, both in Jeju City. After a few days’ journey of the island, why not spend the night blowing off some steam by hitting a few 250-yard drives before relaxing in the rest area. # 45 Royal Shopping Bldg. 51 Shindae-ro 12-gil Yeondong, Jeju City Hours: 24 hours Phone: 064-712-9071 Fee: Outdoor driving range: 10,000 won a day. Indoor driving range (reservations required): 9 hole - 10,000 won (during the day), 20,000 won (at night), 18 hole 20,000 won

Of Hair

www.jejuweekly.com

Looking to get that perfect haircut for your summer vacation? Just 10 minutes from the Jeju International Airport, Of Hair will give you a fresh and beautiful look for all your holiday photos. Of Hair has recently become famous among foreigners simply through word of mouth due to its exceptional service. With experience running a similar salon in China, as well as being a former hair dresser for Korean stars, the owner knows how to perfectly sculpt a cut to each person’s particular face. To find Of Hair, look for the store with the huge friendly white dog out front. For a memorable trip, try changing your hair style.

Cuckoo Rice Cooker Located at the northern end of the street is Cuckoo Rich Cooker, home to Korea’s most popular brand of rice cookers. With convenient voice prompts in English, these rice cookers are assessable to not just Koreans. The cooker can steam meat and vegetables as well as rice, easily and quickly. And it has a self-cleaning function so it is easy to maintain. If you buy a rice cooker for friends and family back home, remember it comes with a hefty international shipping cost and high customs duties, so, it’s better to pack it under the plane. 272-30 Yeondong Jeju City Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Phone: 064-744-8484

Jeju International Tea Museum

Nothing spoils a vacation more than a sudden illness, and this is where Ace Pham Pharmacy comes to the rescue. Located in the middle of the pedestrian-only street in Yeondong, this pharmacy is open 24 hours a day, so you can quickly and easily pickup medication to cure a cold, motion sickness, diarrhea, and other illnesses that dampen one’s holiday. With Korea’s excellent reputation in the field of medicine, sleep easy while here knowing that there is a shop just around the corner if you feel that you are coming down with something. Also, it sells vitamin supplements, toothpaste, toothbrushes, face creams, and more of the things you forgot to pack in the excitement of your trip to Jeju.

The owner of the Jeju International Tea Museum is a real tea enthusiast. Over the years Woo Jae Min has collected famous teas and tea accessories from around the world to put on display in his three-story museum in Shin Jeju. The exhibits are colorful and diverse. Woo’s special take on tea is particularly insightful. In essence, he believes tea has the possibilities for a plethora of flavors and can be truly exciting. He even developed a delicious green tea ice cream and a brown puer tea. On the first floor, you can buy special teas and tea accessories. In an adjacent small café, you can sample a variety of tea ice creams. On the second floor, there are huge pie-shaped packages of puer tea and valuable gold tea. Exquisite tea pots and cups from China, Japan, and Russia are all part of Woo’s own collection. On the third floor, there are three culture rooms, exhibiting the traditional tea services of Korea, Japan, and China. Each room is furnished with the respective countries’ tables and chairs. After visiting this museum, there’s a good chance you will leave with a sense of admiration for the owner’s passion, love, and study of everything related to tea. Tip: Take your time to appreciate the collection. And do not forget to visit the roof garden.

272-20 Yeondong Jeju City Hours: 24 hours Phone: 064- 711-5553

16 Shinkwang-ro Yeondong Jeju City Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Phone: 064-748-9009

1F Hawaii Officetel 905-3 Nohyung Jeju City Hours: 9:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. Phone: 064-747-2326

Ace Pham Pharmacy

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Family Mart While busy touring the sites of Jeju, Family Mart, with its wide array of snacks, light meals, coffee and other beverages, is the perfect answer to quench your thirst and quell your hunger while on the go. Some stores even sell Jeju souvenirs for busy tourists trying to capitalize on the time they have here. You can also buy and recharge your T-money traffic cards, which are used to pay for bus and taxi fares. Family Marts also provide 24 hour international parcel delivery services, so if you have urgent paper work that can’t wait for you to get back home, you can use their copy and fax machines.

Shilla Foot & Skin Body Massage Clinic Sightseeing can be tiring, but what better way to rejuvenate yourself than getting a foot massage? The experienced staff at the Shilla Foot & Skin Body Massage Clinic perform a 50-minute, high-standard scientific massage technique that helps blood circulation to relieve stress and correct hormone imbalances. The body sports massage helps you recover from muscle fatigue and relaxes your body and soul. Offered in either a 60 minute or 90 minute massage, you will leave feeling at peace and relieved of daily stresses. The one to two-hour body aromatherapy massage is a natural remedy that uses essential oils extracted from hundreds of different kinds of trees, grass, flowers, and roots. The clinic has couple and family rooms. 3F 252-16 Yeondong Jeju City (next to the Shilla Duty Free Shop) Hours: 12 p.m. to 2 a.m. (reservation required) Phone: 064-746-1181

(Translation by Yang Young Jae)

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International flights to and from Jeju (April) Destination

Carrier

Departure and Arrival times

Narita (NRT)

Korean Air

'HSDUWXUH HYHU\GD\ $UULYDO HYHU\GD\

Nagoya (NGO)

Korean Air

'HSDUWXUH 0RQ :HG )UL 6XQ $UULYDO 0RQ :HG )UL 6XQ

Korean Air

'HSDUWXUH HYHU\GD\ $UULYDO HYHU\GD\

Japan Osaka (KIX)

'HSDUWXUH 0RQ :HG )UL 6DW 6XQ $UULYDO 0RQ :HG )UL 6DW 6XQ 'HSDUWXUH 7XH )UL 6XQ $UULYDO :HG )UL 6XQ 'HSDUWXUH 0RQ :HG )UL 6XQ $UULYDO 0RQ :HG )UL 6XQ

Jeju Air Fukuoka (FUK)

Asiana

Beijing (PEK)

Korean Air

Notes

'HSDUWXUH 7XH 7KX 6DW $UULYDO 7XH 7KX 6DW China Eastern

'HSDUWXUH HYHU\GD\ $UULYDO HYHU\GD\

Jin Air

'HSDUWXUH HYHU\GD\ $UULYDO HYHU\GD\

Dalian (DLC)

China Southern

'HSDUWXUH 7KX 6XQ $UULYDO 7KX 6XQ

Changchun (CGQ)

China Southern

'HSDUWXUH 7KX 6XQ $UULYDO 7KX 6XQ

Shenyang (SHE)

China Southern

'HSDUWXUH 7KX 6XQ $UULYDO 7KX 6XQ

Hongkong (HKG)

Dragonair

'HSDUWXUH 0RQ )UL 7XH $UULYDO 0RQ 7XH )UL

3XGRQJ 39*

China

Hong kong

URXWHV IOLJKWV D ZHHN * This schedule is subject to change without notice. * Courtesy Korean Airports Corporation Jeju Branch

Cruise liners on Jeju (April) Terminal

www.jejuweekly.com

No.7 Berth

No.2 Berth

Leaving Returning Departure Arrival Arrival Departure time time time time (Jeju) (Jeju)

Liner

Destination

Capacity

Hanil Express 1

Wando

975

SeaStar Cruise

Mokpo

1935

Doowoo Ferry

Samchunpo

484

Cozy Island

Busan

723

Ohamana

Incheon

937

Car ferry Rainbow

Mokpo

Pink Dolphin Blue Narae Hanil Express 3 Namhae Gosok Car Ferry 7

Info

Notes

Jeju: Sun off Wando: Sat off

758-4234

Jeju: Mon off Mokpo: Mon off

753-9333

-

Jeju: operate on Mon, Wed, Fri Busan: operate on Tue,Thu, Sat

Jeju: operate on Tue, Thu, Sat Incheon: operate on Mon, Wed, Fri

642

758-4234

Jeju: 1st, 3rd Sun off Mokpo: 1st, 3rd Sun off

Chuja Jindo Mokpo

11:45

16:15 14:55

758-4234

Wed off

Wando

572

Jeju: 2nd Wed off Wando: 2nd Wed off

Jeju: 3rd Wed off Chuja,Wando: 3rd Wed off

-

Chuja Wando Nokdong

6XQ

7XHa6XQ

255

* This schedule is subject to change without notice. * Courtesy Korea Shipping Association, Jeju Branch

Carrier info Korean Air Asiana Air Busan Jeju Air Eastar Jet

Info

Jin Air T'way air China Eastern China Southern Transasia Airways

+82-1688-8686 +RWOLQH

- Cruise line info (Korea): 1544-1114 &UXLVH OLQH LQIR -HMX

G04

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

JDC Junior Journalists 13

The JDC-Jeju Weekly Junior Journalists visited Bukchon village in Jeju City on April 14 for the third journalism field trip. At the historical sites of the village they learned about the April 3 massacre and wrote individual articles. The Weekly’s editorial staff selected two outstanding pieces published below.

Scars of 4.3 remain in people’s hearts By Kim Yeon Jin

www.jejuweekly.com

contributor@jejuweekly.com

Those Jeju citizens who suffered through the seven years of armed conflict on the island known as the Jeju Massacre (4.3 in Korean) are still tormented by its horrible memory. Starting on April 3, 1948, and continuing until 1954, roughly 30,000 Jeju islanders were killed and those that survived are still suffering. The citizens of Jeju Island were killed by a government they couldn’t publicly blame. This massacre was the consequence of opposition to the American Army which was in control of the southern half of Korea and was in the process of establishing a new government here. Huge numbers of Jeju citizens were killed as a consequence of the American Army and the South Korean Army repressing their political opponents by force. The survivors, though, can still clearly remember what happened, and are reluctant to speak about it because it is too gruesome to think about. The Jeju Weekly Junior Journalists went to Bukchon village, Jeju City, where some 400 people were murdered during the massacre to uncover more about this tragic event in Jeju’s history. Kim Seok Bo is a survivor of the Jeju Massacre. He escaped from the throes of death while army soldiers were shooting the villagers of Bukchon on January 17, 1949. At midnight he went to the nearby village of Neobeunsungi with his mother after the army had begun the massacre. “My mother was trying to find my brother and sister relying on the moonlight. When I was there with my mother, I saw lots and lots of corpses. I saw a man who lost half of his face. I was

so scared,” he said. Five hundred people, half of all those who were living in Bukchon village at that time, were killed. They were killed in many places around Bukchon village like Dang Pat, Neo Beun Soong Ee, and the Bukchon Elementary School field. “The armies were taking people to Dang Pat by car. At that time, people didn’t see cars very often, so people tried to get into them. They didn’t know it was a road to death. When my family arrived at Dang Pat, my brothers and sister had already been killed and my mother and I were the only survivors from our family.” Those from the village were separated into two camps; those who were related to police officers and those who were not, with the former being saved and the latter executed. “Soon, the commander came and ordered them to stop shooting people. We wriggled out of the crowd and hid among the police officers’ families since they were the only people who were allowed to live.” He said that it has only been recently that he has been able to discuss the massacre, and even still it is very difficult to go into great detail. The reason for this, he continued, is that some of the other survivors in the village don’t like him to share his experiences. “I think survivors don’t want to think about the massacre. Neither do I. It’s painful to think about that time and talk about it to people. However, I want many people to know about this horrible historical event called 4.3.” There are lots of people who suffer from painful memories related to the 4.3 massacre. Please visit the places that were left scarred by the Jeju Massacre so that we can try to understand the pain that the survivors feel to this day.

Islanders longed for reunification amid a hurricane of change By Moon Sue Shin contributor@jejuweekly.com

Jeju Island was recently selected as a New7Wonders of Nature, however, amid the celebration Jeju continues to be haunted by the violent events of its past. April 3, 1948, is the day attributed to the start of a prolonged massacre on the island committed by government forces. From 1948 to 1954, an estimated 30,000 people were killed. The conflict began after World War II with Korea regaining its independence ending Japan’s 35 years of colonial rule over the peninsula. On Jeju, this was met with both happiness and concern. With Japan being kicked out of the country, Korea had no government and many Jeju citizens opposed that the election for the country’s first president was only occurring in Korea’s southern half. By voting in the election they would have been supporting the divide of the country. In response, the people of Jeju went on a general strike, deteriorating the island’s relationship with its country’s fragile government. On March 1, 1947, Jeju islanders gathered in Gwandeokjeong, Jeju City, to commemorate its Independence Movement Day and to simultaneously protest the upcoming presidential election. Through much confusion and to the quell the protest, police shot into the crowd killing six people. In response to the government’s continual suppression of the people of Jeju, in the early morning of April 3, 1948, a small group of islanders attacked police stations and political figures. In turn, the government labeled the citizens of Jeju as Communists and the newly formed US-backed South Korean government set

out to cleanse the island of those they felt were opponents to democracy. This was the beginning of the Jeju Massacre (commonly referred to as 4.3 in Korean). Kim Seok Bo, 77, is a survivor of the Jeju massacre, and spoke with the Jeju Weekly Junior Journalists about what he went through during those seven years. “I cannot talk about the seriousness of the 4.3 massacre exactly because those who killed the people of Jeju are still alive. I am so angry about that and it causes me a lot of stress. Anyone who did not experienced it can’t know how it feels,” Kim said. “Even though my father was the village chief, he couldn’t stop the deaths of my siblings.” Oh Seung-kook, 55, deputy secretary general at the Jeju April 3 Peace Foundation, who started to study the events surrounding this tragic aspect in Jeju’s history in order to provide a Jeju perspective, said that concerning the massacre, “The government needs to think about the Jeju people’s perspective. [At that time] the people of Jeju just really wanted a unified Korea,” meaning that the people opposed the election not because they were Communists, but because they wanted to prevent the bisection of their country. Even though more than 60 years have past since the start of the Jeju 4.3 massacre, the people of Jeju must not forget what happened. Those who know of the massacre will never forget the victims and the people who were sacrificed. Jeju’s inauguration as one of the New7Wonders of Nature seems to disguise its violent past. Like a hurricane, the Jeju Massacre greatly affected Jeju Island, but Jeju will continue to develop, and an incident like this will hopefully never happen again.

Photos by Jeong Yu Jin

14 Seogwipo Spots / Olle Trails

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

Sipping java, treat yourself to a ‘nature retreat’ Seogwipo’s Flower and Coffee Shop is a new, quaint, and colorful café By Jessica Sicard contributor@jejuweekly.com

One of Seogwipo’s busiest boulevards is home to a new, quaint little shop called the Flower and Coffee Shop. The title leaves no mysteries as customers can indeed enjoy a piping hot cup-o-Joe while taking in colorful and lush green surroundings, surroundings of which are for sale. As warmer weather rapidly approaches, shop owner Oh Eun Joo, also known as Jennifer, is putting the final touches on her shop, a special place with a “secret garden” offering customers a small getaway from

the Korean “bali, bali” (hurry, hurry) lifestyle. First impressions of this charming café include a country style deck ornamented in flowers, inviting customers inside. Large windows permit natural light to reach every corner of the café, and the interior decoration is simple yet has a very artistic and homey feeling, providing a warm and friendly atmosphere. A variety of drinks are available at Flower and Coffee Shop, including Dan Pablo’s Americano, café mocha, caramel macchiato, cappuccino, café latte, sweet potato latte, green tea latte, lemonade, hot chocolate, yogurt smoothies, and a variety Continued on page 15

The interior of the Flower and Coffee Shop. Photo by Jessica Sicard

Jeju Olle walking courses 14, 14-1 The following is another article in our Hike Jeju series assessing Jeju Olle walking trails. For an index of the rating system, please consult our Web site (shortened URL: goo.gl/jkxO6). — Ed.

Course No. 14

Course No. 14-1

Route: Jeoji Community Center (start, 0.0 km) - Nanum Herb (1.5) - Jeoji stone path (2.3) - Three-way intersection (3.6) Osirokheon cozy field path (4.2) - sunken path (5.4) - palm tree 3-way intersection (5.7) - cactus fields (6.1) - Wollyeong wood path (6.9) - unnamed walking trail 3 (8.3) - Wollyeong seaside (9.5) - Wollyeong Port (10.2) - Haenyeokong bean habitat (11.3) - Geumneung Port (12.7) - Geumneung Beach (13.2) - Hyeopjae Beach (14.1) Hyeopjae Port (15) - Ongpo Port (16.1) - National Shellfish Research Center (17.4) - Hallim Port 19.3, finish — Course takes about seven hours to complete

Route: Jeoji Community Center (start, 0.0 km) - Gangjeong Hill (2.7) - rest area with big tree (4) Mundoji Oreum (5.1) - Jugaheul-gil (5.5) - Jeoji Gotjawal Forest (7) - roe deer resting place (7.5) - animal farm forest path (8.5) - O’Sulloc tea garden (10.3) - Mureung Gotjawal Forest (13.9) - Hang-mul, spring (14.3) Yeongdongke (15.4) - Inhyang Village (16.7) - Gunam-mul, spring (17.4) - Jeju Culture and Experience Center in Mureung-2-ri 18.8, finish — Course takes about seven hours to complete

Grade: 49.5 (1st overall)

www.jejuweekly.com

Grade 39.0 (14th overall)

A B C D E F G H I J

Natural scenery and landscape Conditions of the trail (QYLURQPHQWDO GDPDJH lack of footprint on the area Bilingual opportunities &URZG FRQWURO compared to how many people are using trail Facilities around the area Improvements 3DUN SODQQLQJ DUFKLWHFWXUH Short-term impression factor Long-term impression factor

4.5 3.5 3.5 3.5

Strengths: This course has an abundance of cactuses, which may be surprising for a newbie to Jeju Island. They flourish in certain parts of this course. A national monument was created to showcase and preserve their existence. Also, the beauty of Geumneung and Hyeopjae beaches is intense from the right perspective. Shimmer is a good word to describe the stretches of sand and its constant seaside views of Biyangdo. Weaknesses: Similar to other northwest courses along Jeju’s coast, this Olle

course suffers from the time in between sights being tasteless. The beginnings of industrial walking along the dry, concreted river bed help achieve this feel. Plus, the sea waste is very apparent after the cactus national monument, when the course hugs the shore. English learning opportunities: Tall pine tree grove, Sunken path, cactus National Monument No. 429, Biyangdo Island, Haenyeokong bean habitat Quotable: “Off the shining blue waters of Jeju’s west coast lies a grassy green knoll of scenic beauty known as Biyangdo. Not only a striking visage from the shores of Hyeopjae Beach on Jeju Island, Biyangdo also offers a small world of wonder just a short boat ride away. … Biyangdo, which translates to 'Flying Island,' is home to some 100 residents who are very well acquainted with the island’s fishing spots of Jeju fame.” — Alex James, The Jeju Weekly For the following links, please consult our Web site: The Jeju Weekly, Hike Jeju, Day 23 The Jeju Weekly, New Olle course opened on Sept. 26 The Jeju Weekly, Shimmering just off shore KTO, Course No. 14

A B C D E F G H I J

Natural scenery and landscape Conditions of the trail (QYLURQPHQWDO GDPDJH lack of footprint on the area Bilingual opportunities &URZG FRQWURO FRPSDUHG WR KRZ PDQ\ people are using trail Facilities around the area Improvements 3DUN SODQQLQJ DUFKLWHFWXUH Short-term impression factor Long-term impression factor

in the links section. Quotable: “As we walked, it was hard to imagine that this kind of forest, which is unique only to Jeju, even exists at all. The path itself is black because you’re walking on volcanic rocks. The forest is unbelievably dense. The day was hot, but it was cool in the forest. We had to take our sunglasses off or we couldn’t see where we were walking. Under your feet and all around the forest floor, there seems to only be about an inch of soil supporting these deep, dark, woods.” — Daniel Kojetin, The Jeju Weekly

4.5

Strengths: The minor hits are Mundoji Oreum and O’Sulloc green tea fields. The home run is the long walk through Gotjawal, the pinnacle of nature on Jeju Island. This courses reveals Jeju’s best-kept secret to those who do not know; affirmation to those who already do know. Gotjawal is all action, no talk. It is what it is, the best. Weaknesses: Nada. Nothing is perfect, but this Olle course is close. English opportunities: Only online, check out the various articles

For the following links, please consult our Web site: The Jeju Weekly, Hike Jeju, Day 22 The Jeju Weekly, Gotjawal Olle stuns and surprises The Jeju Weekly, Trust fund established to protect one of Jeju’s treasures The Jeju Weekly, Island’s Gotjawal forest is ‘Lung of Jeju’ The Jeju Weekly, “Forest of Life, Gotjawal” The Jeju Weekly, No future without nature! KTO, Course No. 14-1

Text and photos by Steve Oberhauser

contributor@jejuweekly.com

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

Flavors of Jeju 15

The Jeju Weekly

A burger so big, you’ll need to bring friends Hwanggeumryung Burger in Seogwipo offers up supreme taste, health, and size

In a log cabin-turned restaurant on a quiet eco-farm in Seogwipo City, a very special burger awaits visitors. Between a bun the size of two dinner plates is an impressive stack of seven organicallygrown vegetables, a giant grilled pork patty, three kinds of sauce, and a chewy wheat pancake. Weighing in at 1.3 kilograms and at 26 centimeters round, this is a beast of a burger. Created in 2003 by farmer Kim Seo Joong, the restaurant was taken over by Bae Sang Woon in 2005 and renamed Hwanggeumryung Burger, appropriately meaning “golden hill.� Now Bae’s burger restaurant is a popular tourist spot. During the peak tourism season of summer, over 2,000 people come to eat every day, with between 400 and 500 burgers being prepared by a kitchen staff of four. Sometimes waits for a full-size burger (17,000 won, serving three to four) or a half burger (11,000 won,

serving one or two) can stretch to an hour. The reason why the restaurant is so popular is not just because of the burger’s giant size. It’s special because the ingredients are nearly all local, including the vegetables and herbs which are picked in the fields on Bae’s farm. The latter include rosemary, lemongrass, lemon scented tea tree, basil, and camphor tree which are baked into the bread, and added to the sauce and pork patty mix, which itself is 70 percent Jeju black pork and 30 percent Jeju white pork. The burger also contains three kinds of handmade sauces; a milk sauce; a fruit sauce of apple and tomato: and a mustard sauce of mayonnaise, egg, garlic, and various herbs. The only exception to the local ingredients happens to be mainland apples. A lot of experimentation with the recipe over the years has resulted in Hwanggeumryung Burger’s current taste. According to Bae, he was looking to improve upon the original. “The taste is quite different from what it used to be,� he said.

Continued from page 14 of teas and juices. The kitchen offers pizza toast, cheese toast, and plain bagels with real Philadelphia cream cheese, all of which can be enjoyed in the cafĂŠ or to go. I had the pleasure of sampling the caramel macchiato, the Americano, the lemon tea, and a bagel with cream cheese, all prepared to perfection. Most notable is the lemon tea as it reminded me of sunshine in my home state of California. Plants and flowers are all over the shop providing a mini nature retreat-like feeling, particularly in the backyard, or what I’ve come to know as the secret garden. While the garden is optimally enjoyed on warm weather days, it’s possible to relax there beside the heater on colder ones, reinforcing Oh’s personal philosophy that “flowers are good for the eyes and mind.â€? Determined to make her customers feel comfortable and satisfied, Oh does not stop at providing some of Seogwipo City’s most delicious drinks in a very unique and cozy venue. Chill music fills the cafÊ’s interior, but if chill music does not tickle your fancy, Oh is flexible in taking requests. A Seogwipo native, Oh became inspired

to open her cafÊ when she returned to the island after living in Seoul for many years working as a secretary for a company and as a Starbucks barista. Oh was presented with the opportunity to take over her mother’s flower shop, and she decided to remodel and combine her two passions, flowers and coffee, in an innovative endeavor. Oh’s main reason for returning to Jeju Island was to be with her family and fiancÊe, but she is enjoying her shop as it gives her the freedom to be creative and deliver an experience that lights up the faces of her customers. Having opened in September 2011, Oh believes her cafÊ is bringing new life to an area of Seogwipo City that does not see a lot of creativity. Her shop has already attracted another creative business called Mama’s Home, a place for sewing lessons and purchasing homemade items such as aprons, coasters, dresses, and more. Conveniently located on a boulevard with ample parking, locals and tourists alike find it easy to stop at her shop on their way out of central Seogwipo City. While Oh’s primary customers are local Koreans, she

By Kim Jung Lim

www.jejuweekly.com

supuleit@jejuweekly.com

pork make for a light taste,� he said. “I like this soft bread, too.� Bae’s mission now is to promote his unique product and increase its popularity. In addition to upgrading the restaurant with outdoor tables, English menus, and more, he has a long-term plan to export the recipe abroad. He said he has already received favorable input from foreign customers, including those from France and the US. Another goal he is close to achieving is an “eco-experience farm project� at his farm. [This was featured in a previous issue of The Weekly -- Ed.] “I’d like Hwanggeumryung Burger to be considered Jeju’s [representative] burger, the must-eat food in Jeju,� Bae said. “I hope customers recognize our mind. We are making the burger with organic ingredients we grow. It is not the one for making money, but the one which contains Jeju healthy ingredients and Jeju people’s sincerity.� Lastly, I think I should take back my words due to a shocking story Bae told me. This year a man appeared at the establishment and actually finished off two burgers!

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Hwanggeumryung Burger

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has been visited by members of the island’s only professional soccer club, Jeju United. It should also be noted that Oh speaks excellent English. This summer, Oh will expand her seating capacity and offer a type of shaved ice dessert called patbingsu, a typical Korean

wangtoro Dowonh

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Hwanggeumryung Burger, in Seogwipo City, offers a 1.3 kilogram, 26 cetimeter circumference hamburger that feeds four. Photo by Angela Kim

His last innovation was carried out very recently. The only thing Bae wasn’t satisfied with was the use of canned pickles in the burger. He came up with a solution last December when he started using a handmade mix of radish, cabbage, cucumber, kohlrabi, and carrot as the pickle element. “I had thought of making pickles mainly using radish, which is very common in Jeju. When I finally made it, I was amazed,� he said. “[It is surprising that] Jeju agricultural products can be cooked delicious like this.� Now Bae is quite confident this current iteration is the tastiest yet. He pointed to feedback he got from a customer who asked if the radish in the burger was added by mistake. The individual had never imagined that such an ingredient would make a burger taste so good. One family of nine from Gyeonggi province, who heard about Hwanggeumryung Burger online while preparing for their trip to Jeju, were enjoying their lunch of three burgers. Park Hyung Chul, the father, praised the food. “The fresh vegetables and delicious black

dish made with sweetened beans, yogurt or ice cream, and fresh strawberries grown on the island. If her delicious drinks and bagels are any indication, I know where I will be spending my summer this year.

Flower and Coffee Shop 445-11 Seohong-dong, Seogwipo City 3KRQH Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 a.m., everyday

care Narae Day ‡ nae Seonban n intersectio

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‡ &LW\ &KLOG 6HRTZLSR ion Agency Protect

Flower and Coffee Shop

16 Sports

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

A brilliant night at the clubhouse The Jeju Weekly vs. Jeju United FC Friendly Soccer Match unites Orange’s coaching staff and local expats By The Jeju Weekly

www.jejuweekly.com

editor@jejuweekly.com

On a breezy and cool Wednesday evening, Jeju United FC, the island’s only professional sports team, opened its doors — and its pitch — to the foreign community for an evening of camaraderie, food, and most importantly, football. The Jeju Weekly vs. Jeju United FC Friendly Soccer Match on April 25 was an opportunity for both the foreigner and Korean communities on the island to come together and bond through sport. The Jeju Weekly team, coached (in the loosest sense of the word) by The Weekly’s sports writer Matt Harris, was comprised of local expats, while Jeju United’s roster was the official team’s coaching staff including expat-favorite Head Coach Park Kyung Hoon, known to many as the Silver Fox. At around 7:30 p.m. the players took to the pitch, United in orange, The Weekly in blue, for a game of three 25-minute thirds which were surprisingly physical and competitive. Over 60 spectators, including Jeju United players Adrian Madaschi, Santos Jr., and Robert, braved the chilly conditions to watch a riveting game. The Weekly took a surprising early lead during the first third

when new arrival from Daegu Daniel Springett fired an angled shot in off the post. The Weekly team looked to be taking a slender lead into the first break when Springett turned from hero to villain catching a United player as he attempted to charge down a shot and giving away a penalty. Coach Park took the kick sending the ball to the left side of the net beating keeper Nic Cunniffe, who had earlier made the save of the game reacting brilliantly to a close range volley from former

international player Coach Park. The second period continued at a fast pace, however neither team were able to trouble the scoreboard. With the teams tied at one apiece, both were trying to find a winner in the final third. The game became more physical, with the amount of fouls increasing (probably in direct relation to how knackered the players were becoming). The Weekly had several chances to score and restricted United to a handful, but due to another, this time debatable, foul in The

Weekly’s box, United were awarded another penalty which Park again took knocking it past Timo LaTour into the corner for the winner. The game ended 2-1 to Jeju United, but the result was not the end-goal of the night. United invited all present into their clubhouse in Seogwipo City for dinner. Jeju United CEO & President Byun Myung Gi told The Weekly after the game from the Orange’s dining hall that fans come to watch the game “[but] when they Continued on page 17

It was a once in a lifetime experience to play against professional footballers, especially Coach Park who was a member of the Korean team for FIFA World Cups in 1986 and 1990. The game left many in the foreign community asking when they can expect a rematch

Photos by Angela Kim

Sports 17

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

EXCLUSIVE

Being sidelined by injury is anything but a vacation United Defender Adrian Madaschi talks injuries, Coach Park’s gunning for an elusive win against FC Seoul, DQG WKH UHFHQW 8QLWHG :HHNO\ IULHQGO\

Jeju United defender Adrian Madaschi was back in the lineup for the Orange’s 1-1 tie against FC Seoul on April 21 after being sidelined with a leg injury for five games sustained during the Gwangju match on March 18. He spoke to The Weekly about the role one takes on in that condition, the upcoming game against Gyeongnam at home on April 29, and reactions to The Jeju Weekly vs. Jeju United FC Friendly Soccer Match last week. As opposed to what most people must think of a professional athlete who is forced to sit out due to injury, the days are not filled with margaritas and watching the tube, in fact they are much harder than when one is healthy. “It’s most frustrating because you tend to work more than on a usual basis,� said the Australian defender in a telephone interview. “Obviously you are not working out on the pitch but you’re working out in the treatment rooms, you’re working out in the gym, you’re working with the other injured players and it takes up more of your day than actually when you’re fit.� But, though as frustrating as it is, you’ve got a role to play, and that role is to keep morale up. “You’ve got to stay as positive as possible and you have to stay positive for the others, too, because you’ve got to understand they’ve got a job to do.�

It is obvious, he said, that no one wants to be injured but you have to contribute in every way you can whether that be putting a smile on your face or aiding with extra encouragement from the sidelines. But after the long stint Madaschi is back, and the leg feels good he said with no recurring problems away against FC Seoul, the team that United’s Head Coach Park Kyung Hoon has been gunning to take down. I spoke to Coach Park before the season began and since his tenure with the Orange started three seasons ago, Seoul has been the one team Jeju has yet to defeat. And especially since United lost to them in the finals two seasons ago, retribution is right around the corner. “I think it’s a little splinter in his spine,â€? said Madaschi. “Obviously he wants to tick that one off his list and rightly so. In the short-term history in the last three years Jeju hasn’t managed to beat seoul, so definitely that was high priority on his list.â€? Though they came away with a tie that game, a lost to the capital would of had them sitting neck to neck in second. Now, with a 2-2 draw to Ulsan on April 25 and a 2-1 win over Gangwon on the 29th, Seoul are in fourth in the standings. “Coming away with a point is a good result and [Park] would be satisfied with it. The game ‌ against Ulsan and Seoul went to our favor.â€? He continued that playing away against Seoul is no “easy featâ€? and few teams manage to go home

with a win from Seoul World Cup Stadium. Up next for United was Gyeongnam FC at home on April 29, which the Orange took 3-1. Though before the game Gyeongnam were 10 points behind Jeju and 13th in the league, Madaschi says you can’t take them lightly. “I think you have to look at their last game that they held [first place] Suwon to a draw and that’s not a mean feat,� he said. �We’ve got to keep our guard up.� They play a tight back line with five deep, which makes it hard to get into the box. “We will have to employ our passing game and try to get in behind their players and in around the box as much as we can,� he said. On a lighter side of the game, Madaschi and his wife were on hand for The Jeju Weekly vs. Jeju United FC Friendly Soccer Match on April 25 and said that he was surprised at the turnout considering the weather. “I spoke with a couple of the coaches today [April 26] and they were 'like holy, they were gung ho and we are like they must have thought that we played everyday but really we don’t, we just tell you guys what you’ve got to do...’ They said they really enjoyed it and a couple of them pulled up a bit sore this morning but they said it was really good and even Coach Park said, as players, we should look to embrace, not just the foreign community, but the locals as well.�

Continued from page 16 actually play together they build a kinship and become a family.� For him, and for the rest of Jeju United, this was the purpose of the night, to build a more intimate relationship with their fans. “I have noticed a lot of foreigners come to our home games so I am very excited to see those fans play against our coaching staff,� he said. Camaraderie and relationship building aside, Byun said that out of all the friendly matches they have played, and they have several every year, The Weekly’s team was the most talented his coaching staff had faced. “Among [the friendly matches United has played] this team was

the best — they were the strongest, definitely. Since many of them are from England they must have played since they were young and they are very strong and they shouldn’t be called amateurs, they are at the semi-pro level,� he said. Not to be outdone, Coach Park, during a informal thank you speech in the dining hall, said, not without hyperbole, that the game was akin to Barcelona versus Real Madrid. Darren Southcott, a winger for The Weekly said of the game that “It was great to play against the coaching staff ... Some of our players were star struck, but we had to get on with the task. We are grateful they took the time to play

us and we hope we can set a game up in the future.� It was a once in a lifetime experience to play against professional footballers, especially Coach Park who was a member of the Korean team for FIFA World Cups in 1986 and 1990. The game left many in the foreign community asking when they can expect a rematch. When the idea was presented to President Byun, he laughed. “If they want a rematch ... I will tell the coaching staff to prepare for at least a week,� he said. (Matt Harris contributed reporting)

By The Jeju Weekly

www.jejuweekly.com

editor@jejuweekly.com

Don’t count your chickens K-League action is a marathon, not a sprint By Matt Harris contributor@jejuweekly.com

The last five games have been solid, if not spectacular, for our beloved Orange, steady as she goes sort of stuff. On April 7 Jeju recorded a fairly routine 2-0 home victory over perennial strugglers Daegu, courtesy of second half goals from Brazilian duo Jair and Robert. They followed this is up with a frustrating goalless affair against Ulsan. I’d like recount the highlights to you in glorious Technicolor, but there weren’t any so I can’t. However, happier times were just around the corner. Jeju’s third most recent game resulted in an impressive 3-2 away victory in Pohang who currently sit in 8th. Again, the goals were direct from the Copacabana, this time there were two for Santos and one for Jair. This game was more notable, however, for the appearance of and goal scored by Ghanian international Derek Asamoah. If the importance of this is not immediately obvious, let me give you a little context. While at university, I shared a house with among others, two guys from Chester, who would travel around the north of England to watch their team, Chester City. I used to accompany them on said trips and recall going on several in 2006 when‌ wait for it, Derek Asamoah was on loan to Chester. I’m fairly certain I would have seen him play a few times (he made 17 appearances for Chester scoring 8 goals). So what’s my point? Well, when Pohang come to visit Jeju on June 23, Asamoah will become the first player that I’ve watched live in both England and Korea. Anyhow, anecdote over. Now onto Jeju’s April 21 performance. United earned a useful, if not deserved, draw away to powerhouse FC Seoul. This game was similar in the watching-paint-dry-stakes to the Ulsan game and when Seoul scored from a corner in the 77th minute, it looked just about over. The afternoon had promised to be both depressing and boring until, that is, the mercurial Santos poked in an unlikely equalizer deep into injury time. “Getting away with itâ€? like this made the draw feel like a victory, and it also meant that Jeju would remain second in the K-League standings. The latest game on April 29 at home against Gyeongnam proved to be more exciting with Jeju taking it 3-1 with goals by Song Jin Hyung, Robert, and Jair. Only a late goal by Wilmar Jordan Gil prevented Jeju from getting a clean sheet. So where are we? Second in the league, only one defeat, playing quite well, on the other hand it’s a marathon not a sprint, so don’t count your chickens. See you at the next game.

Subscription Subscribe to The Jeju Weekly IRU ZRQ SHU LVVXH For more information, please call 064-724-7776, 064-702-8885 or e-mail editor@jejuweekly.com

18 In Color

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

Flower power Spring on Jeju has been a bit cooler this year. But the colors are as warm as ever

www.jejuweekly.com

By Todd Thacker

toddthacker@jejuweekly.com

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Photos 1-4 by Douglas MacDonald

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In Color 19

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

The Jeju Weekly is entering its fourth year of publication in May. Given the quality of our contributors’ work over these past 71 issues, we’re eager to feature the talents of our diverse contributor base. It’s been a touch cooler than normal this spring, so the delay in their blossoming means we’ve had even longer to enjoy the waxing and waning of the season. We’re very proud to feature the photographic splendor of Jeju’s spring flowers, from five generous contributors whose bios are listed below: Two from readers, two from regular contributors, and one from a Jeju Weekly staff member. A big thank you to everyone who participated.

Susun Xiong is a Jeju Weekly reader who hails from Minnesota and teaches in Shin Jeju. She uses a Canon 600D. Gidget Alaman is an American English teacher on Jeju. She photographs nature, festivals and museums and explores the island whenever she can with a Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT. Douglas MacDonald is a Canadian-born freelance photographer and Getty Images Artist. He is also a regular contributor and go-to photographer for The Weekly. He has spent 10 years documenting life and landscapes in Jeju and the South Korean mainland. He shoots a Canon EOS 5D Mark II.

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You can see more of his work at flickr.com/ photos/dmacs_photos. Jessica Sicard comes from a family of amateur photographers and became interested in the art at a young age. She continued on to study public relations and journalism where she took classes in photography, and she has refined her craft through photographing her world travels. She shoots a Canon EOS Digital Rebel XT, lenses 18-55mm and 70-300mm. Yang Young Jae is our office/planning manager and who hails from Jeju City. She enjoys life with her two boys — a husband and a cocker spaniel. Her blog is blog.naver.com/ openmind200.

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Photo 1 by Gidget Alaman. Photo 2 by Jessica Sicard. Photo 3 by Yang Young Jae. Photo 4 by Susan Xiong.

20 My Jeju

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

‘I miss the beauty, but not the hardships, of 1970s Jeju’ Michael and Kathy Clement, Peace Corps volunteers recall a rustic posting By Angela Kim

www.jejuweekly.com

angelakim@jejuweekly.com

Can you imagine Jeju in the 1970s? Peace Corps volunteers Kathy and Michael Clement can. They lived on Jeju from June of 1976 to June of 1978, working as teachers — Kathy at Jeju Girls Middle School and Michael at Gimnyeong Middle School. In March of 2012, the Clements visited the island for the second time since they left. They met up with an old friend, Kimnyung Maze Park owner Frederick Dustin, who introduced them to The Weekly. “We have come full circle as family,” Kathy said. The Clements started teaching in Korea in their 20s, and are back in Korea in their 60s. Although Michael had retired, Kathy still teaches at Chadwick International School, Songdo. “Living on Jeju as a foreigner in the 1970s was a relatively unique experience as very few Westerners had ever lived on Jeju before,” Michael recalls. He described when he first came to the island he felt like “a returning hero,” though he had never been to Jeju before. Gimnyeong villagers offered him a warm welcome with a banner. However, for Michael, Korea still felt very much like “the hermit kingdom” in the 1970s. “Koreans were striving very hard to have a national identity and were not very accepting of foreigners. We did not fit in very well as we were not connected to anything that they knew,” he said. “As a result our status amongst them was that we did not exist — we were there, but it really did not matter. This may have been a misperception on my part, but that is how I felt and that was what was the most difficult part of my stay on Jeju.” There were not as many foreigners on the island as there are now. Kathy remembers the locals being curious and jumping up and down to see if they could reach her husband's height. After a while the couple learned to accept those actions as curiosity and not rudeness. For Kathy, hardships were more tied to everyday living. She had to learn not only Korean but also Jeju dialect, because no one understood English. She had a hard

Left, Kathy Clement and right, her husband Michael Clement. Photos by Angela Kim

For Kathy, hardships were more tied to everyday living. She had to learn not only Korean but also Jeju dialect, because no one understood English

time trying to keep warm during winter with only one spot heated on the floor. Finding inexpensive restaurants was another difficulty. Since there was a minimal amount of electricity and no washing machines at that time, she had to wash all her clothes by hand. “Also this was the political time of Park Chung Hee and our mail was opened, read

Photo by Angela Kim

and marked through,” Kathy said. She was only able to call her family back in the US once in the two years she lived here. However, their life was much simpler back then. Jeju City ended few blocks away from where they lived, near the KAL Hotel. Without many cars on the street or even paved roads, the two went around the island by bus. There were two main buses that led their journey — one going around the island, and one going over the mountain. There were no bus stops. To catch a bus, “all you had to do was get on the road,” Michael said. They climbed the Seongsan Sunrise Peak when there was no walkway, and climbed Mt. Halla when there were no trails. Their feelings of the Jeju of today are mixed. While they are excited to see Jeju’s developments and improvements, they both expressed their concern for Jeju being over-developed and overwhelmed by tourism. When the couple revisited their favorite spots in Jeju, they couldn’t recognize some of them. In his memory, Hwasun beach was a fairly remote beach that they used to camp on, but “now on that spot lies a rusting hulk of a shipwreck and on the other end of the beach is an ugly power plant.” He described how the entire beach

now “appears to be an industrial site that one would not like to picnic on.” Also, Songaksan was remote, where one had to walk several miles through farm land to get there. Very few people even knew anything about it. “Now there is a parking lot at its base with bus after bus disgorging tourists that swarm over the site. And there are restaurants galore to feed the lot,” Michael said. “Considering changes that have occurred, it’s not as environmentally friendly,” Kathy stressed. “Progress is good, but one needs to keep in mind the original beauty of a place and keep it as original as possible.” But they both agree that the island managed to preserve its local culture better than other major cities in Korea. “Now Koreans are very accepting of foreigners and we seem to fit in better,” Michael said. Quoting Kahlil Gibran — The things which the child loves remain in the domain of the heart until old age. The most beautiful thing in life is that our souls remain over the places where we once enjoyed ourselves — Kathy said, “I miss the beauty of Jeju in the 1970s, but I don't miss the hardships of my Peace Corps days.”

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

My Jeju 21

‘The mystery of Jeju tradition has driven me’ Documentary filmmaker and long-time Jeju resident Joey Rositano is recording the island’s ghost stories before they are forgotten lot of location ghost stories in Jeju that are in the documentary as well.

How did you become involved with this topic?

The original idea was grandmothers’ stories. I was just going to interview grandmothers on the island to tell about the old times. Then, I met a Korean friend and we were talking about it and we kind of came up with the idea together to limit it to ghost stories. So, first we were going to do the ghost stories like in the traditional Korean form, like the horror movies. As it evolved, I realised how important the musok belief was in old Jeju. So the topic kind of shifted to that. It wasn’t definite at first but that seemed like the topic with the most weight.

As a Westerner, what are some of the difficulties in making a film about something very Jeju specific?

Joey Rositano. Photo by The Jeju Weekly

By The Jeju Weekly

www.jejuweekly.com

editor@jejuweekly.com

You have probably seen Joey Rositano around town. A native of Nashville, Tennessee, Joey has been living on the island for the past six years and has become a well-known face in the foreign community here. I first met Joey years ago at The Factory in Jeju City and we got to talking about our how we both had lived in Spain. Little did I know then that we had more in common than simply our joy of siestas and Spanish. We share a common interest in the history and culture of Jeju, specifically musok, the island’s indigenous shaman religion. Currently, Joey is in the final stages of shooting a documentary that has taken him all over the island investigating ghost stories, most of which specifically relate to musok. He has hundreds of hours of film and once finished, which will be in the next couple of months, he plans to hit film festivals throughout the world.

Why did you decide to come here?

I had a friend, he’s gone now, Isaac Bettis. He was a high school friend and he came here to study hapkido. I lived in Spain before, I taught in Spain. I had problems with my visa there and he sent me some pictures of him on a motorcycle riding around Jeju Island. I pretty much decided to come on impulse.

Why did you decide to make a documentary about Jeju ghost

stories?

I decided to do this project because I wanted to get to know Jeju in a different way. As a teacher, we only kind of get one area. You could branch out if you want to, if you’re adventurous and you want to explore different things. This was kind of a way to get me into the countryside and interacting with people in the countryside and just see Jeju in a more fuller kind of way. That was the impetus.

Could you please explain the project?

The project is primarily about the traditional religion, the shaman religion in Jeju. But it is not limited to that. It’s also about Jeju people and Koreans’ conception to religion and the soul and kind of mysticism and the nature of possession or ghosts. It’s not limited to musok. There is a

Language is difficult, though I do most of my own interviews, I do speak Korean pretty well. If I interview an expert or something that needs very technical language I bring an interpreter along. The language, and definitely judging how openly I can ask certain questions is very hard. For example, a lot of old people have told me about the [Jeju April 3] massacre and I’ve been really uncomfortable about how much I can ask. I’ve been really surprised about how forthcoming they are. I couldn’t believe it actually. They seem to voluntarily want to tell me about it. And sometimes its off topic but I just kind of roll with it. That’s made quite an impression upon me. It has affected me a lot.

How so?

I guess, you hear about these things, but until you talk to someone who has lived through it you don’t really feel the reality of it. And I know people say that, but I never had that experience before so I guess I imagined that I could understand the reality of it without really interacting with somebody, from reading about it. But it’s not true. Once you meet somebody who’s been through something like that it makes a greater impact.

Any other difficulties?

There is some shame attached to musok. A lot of people want to write it up as a

superstition. I don’t really get negative reactions but people who are catholic or non-believers sometimes, they ask me, “Why are you doing this? Why are you researching this it’s just a superstition.” They don't feel very positive about it.

What motivates you to see this project through?

I think every story is really a mystery. I was told that one ritual that I saw, they never had an outsider and they think that this might have been the first time in history that an outsider had seen it. There are a few straggling places where the traditions are really holding on. In one village I went to, there were only five people left making the offering whereas 50 years ago you’d have like 800 people there. The mystery of it has kind of driven me. What can I discover or what aspect of the culture is hiding under the next rock? That is what has driven me.

How did you pick your stories?

It’s been a bit better than random. Early on I met a woman who is kind of an expert in Jeju language, unofficially. She’s made a dictionary of Jeju language and does research. She’s just a geek. She’s into everything. She told me just a few key stories that would be excellent for film because they are bit more visual or dramatic. It’s really a film about stories. I chose four or five stories. There are hundreds and everytime I hear a new story i’m like “I should research that one” but I really can’t, I have to limit myself. It’s hard to choose.

Is there anything else you’d like to add about your experience making this documentary?

I’d like to say I’m grateful for all the help that I’ve gotten. I have two Korean narrators who have helped a lot, and other people in the community, too. People have been pretty open so that has been a significant thing. I didn’t really know what I was getting into when I started. I didn’t know if people would turn me away. It’s amazing, people like to talk. They do share their stories with me. Depending on their comfort level, I surprised a lot of grandmothers in fields and grandfathers, but usually they’re really brave people.

I decided to do this project because I wanted to get to know Jeju in a different way. As a teacher, we only kind of get one area. You could branch out if you want to, if you're adventurous and you want to explore different things

22 Calendar

The Jeju Weekly

MONDAY, April 30, 2012

Through the lens

The beauty of belly dancing captured at the Jeju Colorful Choom Festival on April 14 in Jeju City. For our article on the event and more photos of the dancers, please go to our Web site. Photo Courtesy Matthew Halstead

Community Calendar Exhibitions 71st Korean Fine Arts Association Jeju Exhibition May 1 to 5. Jeju Culture & Arts Center, 69 Donggwang-ro, -HMX &LW\

Stories of Indian Mythology and Folk Painting 8QWLO 0D\ -HMX 0XVHXP RI $UW UR -HMX &LW\

Access to Life, Magnum Photos Until May 22. Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art, 38 Jeoji JLO +DQJ\HRQJ P\HRQ -HMX &LW\

The Birth of a Family 8QWLO 0D\ -HMX 0XVHXP RI $UW UR -HMX &LW\

The Wings of Imagination are Stretched

www.jejuweekly.com

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Kim Heung Soo Permanent Exhibition Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art, 38 Jeoji 14-gil, +DQJ\HRQJ P\HRQ -HMX &LW\

Byun Shi Ji Permanent Exhibition Gidang Art Museum, 34 Namseong-ro, Seogwipo City.

Performances Hinds’ Feet, a musical to celebrate the 1st anniversary of the Jeju Christian Television System 0D\ S P -HMX &XOWXUH $UWV &HQWHU 'RQJJZDQJ UR -HMX &LW\ Free admission

Hoby Show, a children’s musical May 5 to 6. 11 a.m., 2 p.m., 4 p.m. Jeju Arts Center, 231 Onam-ro, Jeju City. 1544-7579 7LFNHWV 5 VHDWV ZRQ 6 VHDWV ZRQ

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Donghwa (fairy tale), a Korean traditional dance performance

Free Movies from the Jeju Movie Culture Art Center -HMX 0RYLH &XOWXUH $UW &HQWHU ,OGR GRQJ -HMX &LW\ 0D\ S P ´6OXPGRJ 0LOOLRQDLUH¾

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May 4. 3 p.m. “Lemony Snicket’s A Series of Unfortunate (YHQWVÂľ

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[K-League] Jeju United vs Gangwon FC

The Magic and Tigers of Rick Thomas, the magic show

2012 Job Fair

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May 18. 1 p.m. Jeju Special Self-Governing Province 6PDOO 0HGLXP %XVLQHVV 6XSSRUW &HQWHU Application period for companies: Until April 11

Nanta

Jeju Furey Beach Volleyball 7

Everyday 5 p.m., 8 p.m. Jeju Media Center, 82 Sinsan-ro, -HMX &LW\ 7LFNHWV ZRQ 9,3 VHDWV ZRQ GLVFRXQW IRU -HMX UHVLGHQWV ZLWK ,' FDUG

Fanta-Stick Every Tuesday to Sunday 4 p.m. Jungmun Fanta-Stick Performance Hall in the Sound Island (Soriseom) 0XVHXP -XQJPXQ *ZDQJZDQJ UR 6HRJZLSR &LW\ 7LFNHWV 5 VHDWV ZRQ 6 VHDWV ZRQ GLVFRXQW IRU -HMX UHVLGHQWV ZLWK ,' FDUG

Sports and Recreation Science experience event

The 46th Jeju Special Self-Governing Province Sports Festival

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A Wolf Story, the nonverbal performance for children

[K-League] Jeju United vs Gyeongnam

May 12. 6 p.m. Jeju National Museum, 17 Iljudong-ro, Jeju &LW\

April 29. 5 p.m. Jeju World Cup Stadium, 33 Worldcup-ro, 6HRJZLSR &LW\

Il Barbiere di Siviglia (The Barber of Seville), the opera

Free Movie from Jeju National Museum

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Jeju National Museum, 17 Iljudong-ro, Jeju City.

Readers! We need your help.

May 13. 3 p.m. Jeju World Cup Stadium, 33 Worldcup-ro, 6HRJZLSR &LW\

6WDUWV 0D\ DW D P (QGV 0D\ DW S P ,KR %HDFK Jeju City. Programs: the charity beach volleyball tournament runs all day on both days, with live music and a DJ dance party on Saturday night. All proceeds go to help two local Jeju families. ZRQ SHU WHDP ZRQ IRU VWXGHQWV RU ZRQ IRU LQGLYLGXDOV ZRQ IRU VWXGHQWV Teams of six - three males and three females. Anyone can MRLQ DOO VNLOO OHYHOV DUH ZHOFRPH 9ROXQWHHUV DUH QHHGHG too. &RQWDFW MHMXIXUH\#JPDLO FRP FDIH GDXP QHW MHMXIXUH\ )DFHERRN -HMX )XUH\ %9%

[K-League] Jeju United vs Sangju Sangmu Pheonix

$SULO S P WR S P 6HRJZLSR $VWURQRPLFDO 6FLHQFH DQG &XOWXUH &HQWHU UR 6HRJZLSR &LW\ Programs: A rocket launch demonstration, astronomical observation, watching a star map, and other science experience programs

April 27 to 29. Gujwa Sports Complex, Kimnyeong-ri, *XMZD HXS -HMX &LW\ A total of 56 sports entries(35 sports entries for professional, 34 sports entries for amateur) will be held. Soccer, tennis, table tennis, handball, boxing, basketball, volleyball, wrestling, swimming, baseball, Taekwondo, and more

For All Wife’s Drama, the play

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May 27. 3 p.m. Jeju World Cup Stadium, 33 Worldcup-ro, 6HRJZLSR &LW\

Festivals The 4th Gapado Barley Festival 8QWLO 0D\ *DSDGR 'DHMHRQJ HXS 6HRJZLSR &LW\ 3URJUDPV $SULO D P :HOFRPLQJ SDUDGH (YHU\GD\ IURP D P :DONLQJ LQ WKH EDUOH\ ILHOGV Everyday from 11 a.m. Making and flying kites (YHU\ )ULGD\ 6DWXUGD\ DQG 6XQGD\ IURP D P 1DWXUDO barley dyeing Every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Making and tasting barley bibimbap Every Saturday and Sunday from 2 p.m. to 3 p.m. Brown turban shell picking contest Every Saturday and Sunday. Watching women divers at work and a seafood auction Every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Catching seafood (YHU\GD\ IURP D P 6RQJ FRQWHVW DQG PRUH

The 30th Jeju Yuchae Flower Festival

$SULO WR *DVL UL 3\RVHRQ P\HRQ 6HRJZLSR &LW\ -HMXJDVLUL QHW LQ .RUHDQ 2SHQLQJ FHUHPRQ\ $SULO DW S P :HHNHQG HYHQWV S P WR p.m. Programs: Musical band festival, Arirang radio show “Wonders of Jeju,� an archery contest, a children’s drawing FRQWHVW WKH -HMX <XFKDH 2SHQ 'LVF *ROI Competition, a yuchae flower painting and photo exhibition, experience programs like horse riding, yuchae flower dyeing, pressing oil from yuchae seed, making natural yuchae flower soap, and more.

The 18th Gosari (Bracken) Festival April 28 to 29. Sumang intersection, Namjo-ro, Namwon eup, Seogwipo City. Programs: Jeju language speaking contest, gosari picking, gosari market, walking with family, experience programs like horse riding, gosari drying, and more.

The 9th Bangseonmun Festival Bangseonmun is the name of a valley in Jeju City. May 12. Nanta performance, traditional ritual, and others May 13. Walking on the Olle trail along the valley, writing contest, musical concert Permanent programs: Poetry and painting exhibition, Korean traditional garment wear experience, making accessory with pine cone, face painting, and others

Seogwipo City Announcements Seogwipo Lifelong Study Center Program for May $SSOLFDWLRQ SHULRG 8QWLO $SULO Eligibility: Seogwipo citizens (over the age of 7) Lifelong study programs: Coffee barista training course, Cookie business, drawing for children, flute for children, ocarina, and more. Culture programs for women: Korean Food Craftsman Cooking course (preparing for the written test), Well-being tteok (Korean rice cake) making, chinese food business, clothes making, yoga, flute, Korean painting, basic computer skills, Japanese conversation, Chinese conversation, and more. )HH ZRQ D PRQWK +RZ WR DSSO\ 9LVLW WKH FHQWHU ILUVW FRPH ILUVW VHUYHG

Required documents: ID and the application form (in case of proxies, one should bring the applicant’s ID). For more information, call the Seogwipo Lifelong Study &HQWHU a a

Seogwipo’s Beautiful Flower Road Recommendation Contest 3HULRG 8QWLO $SULO Eligibility: Any individual or as a group (foreigners welcome). Topics: Seogwipo’s beautiful road with noticeability and competitiveness, good for picnics or driving Required documents: A proposal and a photo file (jpg file over 9.5MB) How to apply: by mail or email, or visit the center )RU PRUH LQIRUPDWLRQ FDOO 6HRJZLSR &LW\

Please consider making a donation to help keep The Weekly Jeju’s English-language community newspaper. Any amount is greatly appreciated. In Korea: Nonghyup Bank, 301-0043-9840-91 Account Name: Overseas: Please email editor@jejuweekly.com for Swift code details. Thank you!

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