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208 An Issey Miyake Guest Artists Series No 2 ‘Erotic Girl’ dress by Nobuyoshi Araki, 1997, labelled and size F, of fluorescent green polyester printed with a photograph of a pensive Japanese beauty, bust approx 86-92cm, 34-36in; together with a copy of ‘Pleats Please’ Issey Miyake, published by Taschen (2)
210 An Issey Miyake/Cai Guo-Qiang printed ‘gunpowder’ dress’ dress, Guest Artist, Series 4, 1998, labelled and size 3, of pleated polyester with abstract gunpowder trail print to front and back, asymmetric neckline with points to shoulder and hem, bust approx 86-92cm, 34-36in
This renowned Chinese artist produces these designs by detonating gun-powder charges onto the Issey Miyake dress, leaving a residue of scorch marks and ash, reminiscent of traditional Chinese calligraphic ink drawings. In 1998 at the Fondation Cartier pour l’art Contemporain, Cai arranged Pleats Please dresses in the shape of a coiling dragon on the floor, sprinkled them with gunpowder and then detonated the charge. The resulting charred, scorched patterns on the clothes were then photographed and later printed onto Pleats Please dresses for commercial sale. A similar dress from this series sold in these rooms June 2015, lot 311 for £20,000. £6000 - 8000
Literature: See ‘Pleats Please’ Issey Miyake published by Taschen p294 for a double page photograph ‘Erotic Girl’ by Araki, showing a Japanese girl wearing an identical dress, chained to a wall. Also pages 314 and 315 for an interior exhibition shot at the Fondation Cartier showing again the ‘Erotic Girl’ photograph. £3000 - 5000
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For this gown Miyake collaborated with photographer and video artist Yasumasa Morimura. For the printed design he made a collage of images of himself encased in red mesh entwining the neo-classical nude by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres. Fashion and art interact to create layered impressions; the textured fabric, the printed images and the body of the wearer inhabiting it, all add their different dimensions. To Miyake, the wearer is an essential participant in the design process: ‘When I make something, it’s only half finished. When people use it - for years and years - then it is finished.’ £6000 - 8000
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209 An Issey Miyake pleated polyester body suit with `Eye Globe’ design by Tim Hawkinson, Guest Artists Series No 3, 1998, Pleats Please label, size 3, the beige ground printed with eyes of different hues, low-set crotch, bust approx 86cm, 34in
Illustrated in ‘Pleats Please’ by Taschen, p309. £2000 - 3000 46
211 An Issey Miyake pleated dress with image by Yasumasa Morimura, Guest Artists Series, No 1, Autumn-Winter, 1996-97, Pleats Please labelled and size 4, with scooped neckline, one side printed with a statuesque female figure (excluding the head) from Ingres’ 1856 painting ‘La Source’, the skirt section with an inverted photographic image of Morimura encased in red net seemingly entwining and dissecting the figure, the reverse with the same images upside-down but including the female head, in original cellophane wrapper and long envelope; with two Pleats Please promotional cards (qty)
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