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290 A rare John Galliano ‘Incroyable’ style coat, ‘Lolita’ collection, Spring-Summer, 1992, unlabelled, of ivory calico lined in striped Dupion, the lapels faced in sprigged satin, with florin coin and metal buttons; with pair of graphite stretch satin ‘Cavalry’ trousers from the same collection, with concealed coin pockets to waist, bust approx 86cm, 34in, waist 71cm, 28in (2)
293 A John Galliano forest green viscose crêpe bias cut evening gown, ‘Hairclips’ collection, Autumn-Winter 1988-89, unlabelled, the low cowl back with horizontal strap, the skirt with zig-zag points to the sides and full skirt with flared godets to hem, bust approx 81-86cm, 32-34in
295 A John Galliano bias cut brown velvet/chiffon skirt, ‘Lolita’ collection, Spring-Summer, 1992, unlabelled
Galliano’s backer - Peder Bertelsen of Aguecheek, closed the company before any of this collection could be produced and so in consequence examples are rare. The contents of the studio was thrown into skips. These pieces were worn in the show and acquired by a member of the studio. £3500 - 5000 291 A John Galliano ‘Pretty Baby’ cutwork cotton body, ‘Lolita’ collection, Spring-Summer, 1992, unlabelled, the roundel design created using devore paste, with white tissue paper fringed ‘tails’ to the shoulders, bust approx 81cm, 32in £200 - 300 292 A Shirley Hex/Philip Treacy for John Galliano Palm-Sunday crown, ‘Honcho Woman’ collection, Spring-Summer, 1991, the circlet formed from rosettes and strips of palm fronds, approx 28cm diam £200 - 300 56
The A/W 88-89 collection was the first time Galliano included full-blown bias-cut 30s inspired evening gowns - something that was to become a leitmotif for the rest of his career £800 - 1200 294 A John Galliano bias-cut beige viscose dress, Spring-Summer 1987, Galliano London label and UK 8, with diagonal panels and pleated harem-style hem, bust approx 86cm, 34in
In S/S 1987 Galliano first began to experiment with the bias cut as illustrated by this dress. £400 - 600
This skirt matches the low-cut body, KTA, lot 183, 27.02.2017. £400 - 600 296 An Azzedine Alaïa black leather `zipper’ dress, Spring-Summer 1986, labelled and size 40, with wide biker-style lapels, curving diagonal front opening, wide shoulders, bust approx 102cm, 40in, waist 76cm, 30in
Frida Khelfa is pictured modelling the denim version of this dress next to Azzedine Alaïa in 1986. See ‘Alaïa’ by Palais Galliera p.171. £800 - 1200 297 An Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche purple wool cape, late 1980s, labelled, the voluminous 18th century inspired flounce and lined in mauve satin, the collar trimmed with grosgrain ribbon and bow, singular front hook fastening £400 - 600