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170 A rare Jeanne Lanvin couture ribbonembroidered tulle dress, ‘Rose Tremière’, Spring-Summer, 1926, unlabelled, the black tulle appliquéd with hollyhock motifs in gold chain stitch and degradé twisted ribbons in shades of pink, with stripes of ribbon forming a necklace like floating panel to the front and edging the hem; together with an associated black silk petticoat, bust 86cm, 34in (2)
This model was sold from both the Paris and Cannes Salons. £1500 - 2500 171 A rare Nicole Groult evening gown, 1923, woven label ‘29 Rue d’Anjou’, of black crêpe with Russian peasant-style couched silk thread embroidery in brilliant colours, the front skirt opening lined in fuchsia silk revealing replacement integral pink silk petticoat, bust 81cm, 32in Courtesy of Lanvin Archives.
175 A rare Paul Poiret couture blue velvet ‘Crusader’ dress, circa 1922, large woven label and handwritten bolduc ‘36.932. Mme E. Bannier Robe Croisade en vl bleu’, of simple tunic shape with square neckline and richly embroidered couched silver and gold thread and pink silk roundel enclosing a crucifix, the sleeves similarly worked with narrow foliate bands and crown-like motifs, cuffs and neck edge lined in purple satin, hook and eye closures at both shoulders and left side, the sleeves attached to ivory silk camisole with hook and eye fastenings, bust approx 92cm, 36in
The richly embroidered motif on this dress was inspired by the fabric badges worn by Christian pilgrims and Crusaders in the Middle Ages who wore a cross of cloth sewn onto their clothes. £3000 - 5000
Nicole Groult (1887-1967, sister of couturier Paul Poiret) established her own successful fashion house, specialising in the ‘garcon’ look during the 1920s. The house struggled after the economic crash of 1929 eventually closing in 1935. The dress was photographed for a 1923 advertisement ‘Les plus jolis mannequins de Paris: Lucy de chez Nicole Groult’, photograph by Rama. £800 - 1200 172 A good beaded flapper dress, circa 1928, the black muslin ground densely covered with patterned bands of pearlised, clear bugle beads and silver bobble beads, bust 97cm, 38in £300 - 500 173 A finely beaded muslin jacket, mid 1920s, un-labelled, edged with satin, with scrolling floral motif in shades of red, gold and green, bust approx 107cm, 42in £300 - 500 174 A rare Paul Poiret child’s dress, circa 1922, un-labelled, of heavy sail-cloth like cotton, the hem woven with red and blue stripes, the bodice edged in blue, with later scarlet ribbon lacing to front, pres-stud fastening to rear, chest 66cm, 26in, length 51cm, 20in
Provenance: Piasa Paris ‘La Création en Liberté; Univers de Paul et Denise Paul Poiret 1905-1928’ auction, 10-11th May 2005, lot 371. £400 - 600
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