D OR I A N M A G A Z IN E – WORL D ’S M OS T FAS HION ABL E GAY MAG AZINE
DORIAN MAGAZINE ISSUE NO27 WINTER 2014 DORIANMAGAZINE.COM SEK 69 NOK 79 DKK 79 ISSN 2000 - 1762
ISSUE NO27 WINTER 2014
BELAMI goes HOT COUTURE JOAN RIVERS’ last interview DAME EDNA EVERAGE Ace Designer Marcus Larsson LUXE GIFTS Sexy PRAGUE FA S HI O N B E A U TY C E LE B RIT Y A RT S C U LT U RE T RAVE L SE X
Concept Stores: Drottninggatan 88A/ Gรถtgatan 37, Stockholm
www.ljung.net
etonshirts.com – facebook.com/etonofsweden
UNDeRweaR
100
SEK
(RegUlaR pRice 195-285 seK)
pRomo coDe:
UndErwEar100
liias has a large collection of different underwear. The material is carefully selected for high quality and comfort. available in three different colours: black, white and brown. liias is designed by men for men. stylish underwear, tops and sportswear designed with a focus on comfort and quality. Right now you can buy liias underwear for 100 seK/item. Visit www.liias.se and enter promo code UndErwEar100. minimum purchase of 3 pieces to obtain the discount of any liias underwear. The offeris only valid within the eU between November 27th – January 27th, as long as stocks last. This offer does not include shipping costs and can not be combined with other offers.
w w w . l i i a s . s e
LU XU RY
FA S H I O N
D E S I G N
B E AU T Y
C E L E B R IT Y
C U LT U R E
TR AV E L
S E X
WORLD’S MOST FASHIONABLE GAY MAGAZINE BUY PRINT ISSUES
RETAILERS INCLUDE Amsterdam Antwerp Bangkok Brussels Copenhagen Helsinki Hong Kong London Los Angeles Milan New York Oslo Paris Sydney Stockholm Tokyo Vienna
NOW!
1 ISSUE $6.99 4 ISSUES $21.99 (SAVE 21%)
ONLINE PRINT RETAILERS INCLUDE
NEWSSTAND.CO.UK
– The World’s Largest Online Newsagent –
BUY DIGITAL ISSUES
FOR ALL DEVICES
POCKETMAGS.COM
OR
iTUNES
– Europe’s Largest Digital Publisher –
DORIANMAGAZINE.COM
HIGH FASHION BLOGS FASHION EDITORIALS STYLE & POP CULTURE NEWS
DORIAN
d o r i a n m a g a z i n e i s s c a n d i n a v i a’ s l e a d i n g , g a y g l o s s y, fa s h i o n m a g a z i n e , c r e at e d b y a n awa r d w i n n i n g editorial team that add bold european appeal to world class editorials and features, seducing cosmopolitan readers everywhere. d o r i a n f e at u r e s i n t e r n at i o n a l fa shion editorials shot by renowned photographers with top male models, opulent art and design, unique celebrity portraits, extreme beauty and exotic gay travel destinations. provoking articles complete the decadent dorian universe, presented in a uniq u e a n d v i s u a l ly s t u n n i n g p a c k a g e . dorian is published q u a r t e r ly. welcome to gay life in style!
facts
DORIAN MAGAZINE BOX 7592 103 93 STOCKHOLM SWEDEN info@dorianmagazine.com www.dorianmagazine.com
we accept unsolicited submissions subject to the following conditions: we review submissions b e tween magazine production so it takes time to respond. we review all submissions and if we elect to publish your work, you will be contacted before publication. we cannot promise to contact all declined applicants. p l e as e b e awa r e w e a r e n o t r e s p o n s i b l e for unsolicited materials sent to us.
EDITORIAL B E N J A M I N FA L K editor–in–chief | publisher benjamin@dorianmagazine.com J A K E RY D Q V I S T c r e at i v e d i r e c t o r | fas h i o n d i r e c t o r jake@dorianmagazine.com SUB EDITOR b e v e r ly s a n f o r d S A L E S & A D V E RT I S I N G advertising@dorianmagazine.com A RT D I R E C T I O N jake rydqvist P U B L I C R E L AT I O N S info@dorianmagazine.com PUBLISHER dorian communication Box 7592, 103 93 Stockholm
DORIAN MAGAZINE ISSUE NO27 WINTER 2014
R E P R O / P R I N TStockholms L A R A p o l y g r a p h y , p r i n t e dAuktionsverk in estonia I S S N 2 0 0 0 - 1 7 6 2Magasin 5
DO R IAN MAG AZ IN E – WO R L D’ S MO S T FAS HIO N AB L E G AY MAG AZ IN E
ISSUE NO27 WINTER 2014
SEK 69 NOK 79 DKK 79 DORIANMAGAZINE.COM DORIAN MAGAZINE ISSUE NO27 WINTER 2014 DORIANMAGAZINE.COM SEK 69 NOK 79 DKK 79 ISSN 2000 - 1762
DORIAN MAGAZINE WINTER 2014
i m a g e B E N J A M I N FA L K , J A K E RY D Q V I S T s t y l i n g J A K E RY D Q V I S T saker tillRpersonliga m o d e l s J E A N - D A N I E L , H O Y T K O G AAnnorlunda N and A ND E I K Ahem RENIN wears VINTÄNG, JH NOCTURNAL and BEA SZENFELD make up FILIP HÁJEK hair ALES DALLESANDRO location EMBLEM HOTEL emblemprague.com På Magasin 5 onlineauktion pågår budgivningen dygnet runt. Du kan se och bjuda på alla föremål via vår hemsida eller app. Vill du titta och känna på föremålen innan du lägger bud är du välkommen till oss i Frihamnen i Stockholm. Vi har ett ständigt flöde av nya föremål så det finns alltid flera bra skäl att komma hit. www.magasin5.auktionsverket.se
Auktionsverket_Dorian_dec.indd 1
Stockholms Auktionsverk Magasin 5 Palermog 21 – 23 Stockholms Frihamn Tel 08-453 67 50 Måndag – lördag 13 – 17 Torsdag 13 – 19 Online dygnet runt
FA S H I ON B E A UT Y C E L E B R I T Y A R T S C ULT UR E T R AV E L S E X 27
2014-10-07 14:46
BELAMI goes HOT COUTURE JOAN RIVERS’ last interview DAME EDNA EVERAGE Ace Designer Marcus Larsson LUXE GIFTS Sexy PRAGUE
GRIT® SERIES DURATION
30
MINUTES
EXERCISE TYPE HIGH INTENSITY INTERVAL TRAINING (HIIT)
INTENSITY
THROUGH THE ROOF
EQUIPMENT
VARIES
MUSIC EXPLOSIVE MUSIC TO KEEP THE ENERGY HIGH AND PUSH YOU TO YOUR LIMITS.
RESULTS SCIENTIFICALLY BACKED AND PROVEN TO GET YOU SUPER FIT, SUPER FAST.
lesmills.com/grit Phone: 08-556 096 90 | Email: lesmills@lesmills.net. BODYATTACK®, BODYBALANCE®, BODYCOMBAT®, BODYJAM®, BODYPUMP®, BODYSTEP®, BODYVIVE®, RPM®, CXWORX®, SH’BAM®, GRIT® STRENGTH, GRIT® PLYO, GRIT® CARDIO, BORN TO MOVE™.
DORIAN
editors’ letter
EDITORS’ LETTER issue 26
D
ear Dorian family member, The demise of Joan Rivers left a lump in the throat of both the comedy- and the gay world. In her last interview, she reminds us just how much we’ll miss her acerbic satire, that so entertainingly has pushed the boundaries of political correctness – on stage and on the red carpet. Her controversial Australian counterpart Dame Edna, a comedic legend in her own rights - is also about to close the chapter on her career. As anyone with half a brain can see - more than anything - it’s how their humor is built on love, respect and the importance to be able to laugh at ourselves and this crazy world that ties these two legends together. Fashion is also pushing the envelope. With this winter issue, we’re pushing things a bit ourselves, by exploring Europe’s premier erotica empire Bel Ami, in an epic, racy high fashion shoot. The brand has become synonymous for its use of Eastern European – almost ”preretouched” – alpha male beauties, most of which (as it turns out) have girlfriends and kids, which don’t seem to phase them – or their loyal fans. We spent a day in Prague with three of Bel Ami’s most indemand guys, who proved to be among the most polite, professional and gorgeous models we’ve ever worked with. If a good laugh doesn’t pick you up, perhaps some good old retail therapy will (lord knows we enjoy a l o t of therapy ourselves), so this holiday season, do go crazy with our extensive gift guide, but – above all – also remember to gift yourself and your surrounding with a lots of love and high spirits. Love / Benjamin & Jake
18
|
dorianmagazine.com
dorianmagazine.com
Read our personal blogs on Dorianmagazine.com
Vi är förberedda. Är du? Det har ALDRIG varit viktigare än just nu. Du lämnar väl inget åt slumpen? Det gör inte vi heller. Svenska Recipe for men tillverkar produkter som håller vad de lovar och ger resultat. Det är en av anledningarna till att vi blivit ett världsledande varumärke inom manlig hudvård. Vår mångfaldigt prisbelönta antiperspirant håller dig torr och skyddar mot dålig lukt genom att neutralisera bakterier. Anti-Shine Moisturizer innehåller ett ultrafint dubbelverkande puder som suger upp överskottsolja på huden samtidigt som det dämpar reflektioner. Resultatet är återfuktad och glansfri hy med snygg matt lyster. Upptäck fler viktiga produkter för män på www.recipeformen.com.
www.recipeformen.com Alingsås: Nails, Body & Beauty, Kicks Angered: Kicks Arlandastad: Kicks Arlöv: Kicks Arvika: Kicks Avesta: Kicks Boden: Kicks Bollnäs: Astas Parfymeri Borlänge: Kicks Borås: Kicks, Kicks Knalleland Bålsta: Kicks Charlottenberg: Kicks Eskilstuna: Kicks, Kicks Tuna Park Falkenberg: Kicks Falun: Kicks Frölunda: Kicks Gränby: Kicks Gustavsberg: Kicks Gällivare: Kicks Gävle: Kicks Göteborg: NK Manlig Depå, Åhléns City, Åhléns Kungsgatan, Grand Parfymeri Kungsgatan, Kicks Krokegårdsgatan, Kicks Nordstan, Kicks Avenyn Halmstad: Kicks Eurostop, Kicks Handen: Kicks Port 73 Haninge: Kicks Helsingborg: Gents Barber & Shop, Kicks, Kicks Bruksgatan Hudiksvall: Kicks Hyllinge: Kicks Härnösand: Kicks Hässleholm: Kicks Högdalen: Kicks Insjön: Kicks Jägersro: Kicks Järfälla: Kicks Jönköping: Parelle Cosmetics, Hudoteket, Kicks, Kicks A6 Kalmar: Kicks Hansa City, Kicks Karlskoga: Kicks Karlskrona: Kicks Karlstad: Åhléns, Suzie Picant, KA Makeup & Frisör, Kicks Kiruna: Kicks Kungsbacka: Kicks Kungälv: Hud & Kosmetik Kållered: Kicks Köping: Kicks Landskrona: Kicks Lidköping: Kicks Linköping: Kicks Gallerian Leo, Kicks Ljungby: Kicks Luleå: Guapo, Åhléns, Kicks, Kicks Strand Galleria Lund: Åhléns, Mitti/Kicks Nova, Kicks Nova, Kicks Lyckeby: Kicks Löddeköpinge: Kicks Malmö: Kicks Entré, Kicks Hansa, Kicks/Mitti Hansa City, Kicks/Mitti Triangeln, Kicks Mobilia, Åhléns City, Åhléns Triangeln, Sephora Emporia, Kicks Emporia Mjölby: Kicks Motala: Kicks Nacka: Kicks Sickla, Kicks Nacka Forum, Kicks Orminge Norrköping: Åhléns, Parfymeri L, No 18 Parfymeri, Kicks Hageby, Kicks Ingelsta, Kicks Linden, Kicks Nynäshamn: Kicks Nödinge: Kicks Partille: Kicks Piteå: Kicks Ronneby: Kicks Sala: Kicks Sandviken: Kicks Skellefteå: Kicks Skövde: Kicks, Kicks Elins Sollentuna: Kicks, Kicks Stinsen, Brothers Stinsen Solna: Kicks Stenungssund: Kicks Stockholm: Kicks Farsta, Kicks Flemminggatan, Kicks Fältöversten, Kicks Gallerian, Kicks Globen, Kicks Hamngatan, Kicks Huddinge, Kicks Kista, Kicks Liljeholmen, Kicks Mörby, Kicks PUB, Kicks Ringen, Kicks Sergel, Kicks Skärholmen, Kicks Slöjdgatan, Kicks Täby, Kicks Vällingby, Kicks Åkersberga, Kicks Arninge, NK Manlig Depå, Stadions Läkarmottagning, Grooming Store, Sephora Täby, Åhléns Bromma Blocks, Åhléns City, Åhléns Kista, Åhléns Vällingby, Åhléns Östermalmstorg, Åhléns Fridhemsplan, Åhléns Odenplan, Åhléns Skanstull, Åhléns Farsta Strömstad: Kicks Sundsvall: Kicks Birsta, Kicks Söderhamn: Kicks Södertälje: Kicks Trelleborg: Mitti/Kicks Trollhättan: Kicks, Brothers Överby Tyresö: Kicks Töcksfors: Kicks Uddevalla: Kicks Torp, Kicks Umeå: Kicks Strömpilen, Kicks, Åhléns Upplands Väsby: Kicks Uppsala: Åhléns, Parfymeri L, Kicks, Kicks Svartbäcken Valbo: Kicks Varberg: Kicks Vetlanda: Kicks Väla: Kicks, Kicks/Mitti Västerås: Harmoniq, Hildas Hudvård, Kicks, Kicks Central Västerås, Kicks Hälla, Kicks Erikslund Västra Frölunda: Åhléns, Grand Parfymeri Växjö: Kicks Samarkand, Kicks Åre: Kicks Ängelholm: Kicks Örebro: Parfymeri Pia, Parfymeri L, Åhléns, Kicks Drottninggatan, Kicks Marieberg, Kicks Vågen Örnsköldsvik: Kicks Östersund: Sense, Kicks Överby: Kicks Internet: www.nailsbodybeauty.se, www.eleven.se, www.nelly.com, www.shopping4net.se, www.lash.se, www.bangerhead.se, www.e-male.se, www.parfymeri-l.se, www.kicks.se, www.lyko.se, www.hudochkosmetik.se, www.guapo.se, www.gents.se, www.grooming.se, www.hudoteket.se, www.sliqhaq.se, www parelle.se, www.harmoniq.se , www.grandparfym.se, www.militusmedical.se, www.suziepicant.se.
DORIAN
contents
p. 3 0
CONTENTS winter 2014
p. 7 0
CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE G i f t i n g s w a g : Va s h t i e L o g o Gold Sweat crew neck, around $125
24 40 54 76
50 70
22 30
42
26 70 98 90 106
p. 4 8
The last interview with JOAN RIVERS. Here in her last portrait, for W Magazine
CULTURE
m o v i e M i c h a e l L u c a s d e c l a r e s w a r o n R u s s i a ’s book Belo Cipriani sheds light on disabilities sex The rise and rise of Bel Ami movie Love in sight for Brazilian film
p. 4 4
DAME EDNA EVERAGE bids adieu
H i s t o r y, c u l t u r e , b e e r a n d boys in PRAGUE
politics
CELEBRITY
Legendary Dame Edna sings her swansong The ever last interview with comedy icon Joan Rivers
LIFESTYLE design guide
Design hotel Klaus K reaches new levels
CHRISTMAS GIFT GUIDE
TRAVEL
E a s t e r n E u r o p e ’s p r e m i e r g a y d e s t i n a t i o n P r a g u e
FASHION
Sporty luxe menswear designer Marcus Larsson T I N S E LT O W N FA I RW E AT H E R F R I E N D THE STRIP CURB APPEAL
c o v e r s t o r y p. 5 4
The RISE and RISE of BEL AMI The striking adult performer Hoyt Kogan wears
leather and silver fox fur neck piece from JH NOCTURNAL and wool, silk and leather skort from LANDEROS 20
|
dorianmagazine.com
ALLA ENKELSLIPADE 1499:ALLT INGÅR.
I våra fasta priser ingår alltid valfri båge, ofärgade glas med rep- och antireflexbehandling och vid behov extra tunna glas. Priset gäller oavsett synfel. Ring och boka synundersökning på 0775-70 71 00 eller besök smarteyes.se/tidbok
DORIAN
deisgn
Sky Studio: from 95 euro per night per person. A Christmas package for two includes: accommodation, a glass of sparkling wine upon arrival, buffet breakfast, WiFi and late check out at 14.00. Klauskhotel.com
HISTORICALLY FUTURISTIC
helsinki’s first design h o t e l has quickly established a large fanbase amongst a discerning global clientele who frequent the bustling city – especially during the fashion and design weeks. It’s the perfect accommodation for business or leisure travellers in search of an international vibe, not least as Helsinki’s sightseeing, shopping streets and main venues are just a short walking distance from its location on the sunny side of the city’s own ‘Champs-Élysées’ - Esplanadi. A number of Saturdays each season, Klaus K also hosts an exclusive fashion brunch featuring the country’s biggest designers and celebrities as models. This fall, the hotel is bursting with pride about its stunning new interior – a brand new floor complete with a roof terrace, sky bar and a unique and memorable room concept. Facing either a quiet inner courtyard or the main street, guests can enjoy an elevated floor for the bed, skylights, 4.5-meterhigh ceilings, extra large rain showers and programmed mood lighting. In addition, celebrities will appreciate a separate street entrance and the option of privately hosting the rooftop terrace.
Guide the traveler to the land, Child of mankind to the open To behold the moon in heaven And to wonder at the daylight, Get to know the Great Bear’s grandeur Or just to stare up at the stars!” Kalevala
22
|
dorianmagazine.com
The first design hotel of the sublime Finnish capital has been crowned by an entirely new floor featuring designer suites and a skybar, soaring high above the bustling Esplanadi
The national epos Kalevala is tangible in striking features like an otherworldly cocoon egg shaped bed
dorianmagazine.com
|
23
DORIAN
movie
words JEREMY SANDERS
The NEW C LD W R Porn mogul MICHAEL LUCAS declares war onhis birthland’s gay hate laws
The Mr. Putin Butt Plugg is a poignant sculpture in 3D printed sandstone, by graphic designer Fernando Sosa – but there is a also a fully functional version in pink silicone. $25–35.99. Politicalsculptor.com
24
|
dorianmagazine.com
m i c h a e l l u c a s h a s n e v e r s h i e d f r o m c o n t r o v e r s y . Whether as the preeminent gay-porn auteur of his generation or as an independent-minded social commentator and op-ed columnist, Lucas has built a career out of breaking taboos. In his new documentary, Campaign of Hate: Russia and Gay Propaganda, he teams with director Scott Stern to shine a light on Russia’s laws against “gay propaganda.” It is a compelling call to arms featuring sobering accounts from LGBT Russians and their families and terrifying facts about the Kremlin’s long-term, intensifying atmosphere of hate.
Why was it important for you to make this film? – Until now, the world has only seen bits and pieces of what the LGBT community is going through in Russia. This film shows the full picture.
At 16, I looked up “homosexual” in a Russian encyclopedia and saw that the term was associated with evil Growing up in Russia, what was it like to realize you were gay? – At 16, I looked up “homosexual” in a Russian encyclopedia and saw that the term was associated with evil. Gays are classified as perverts and gay sex is a criminal act that can land you in jail for up to three years. What happens to people who choose live openly as homosexuals in Russia? – If you display your LGBT identity openly, you are at serious risk of being targeted by gangs and beaten up. The police are not sympathetic to gay victims. There can also be a fine involved, because public affection with a person of the same sex can, according to the new laws in place, be considered “gay propaganda”.
Why is the LGBT community so hated in Russia? – The government paints the LGBT as the enemy to distract its people from the real problems of corruption and unemployment. The scapegoats used to be the Jews, but most left after the collapse of the Soviet Union. So the Russians have moved on to the LGBT community, which coincides well with Putin’s cynical campaign of Russian nationalism. How did you choose the people profiled in Campaign of Hate? – We found them through various channels: Facebook profiles, word of mouth, and connections through friends in Russia. Which story in the film speaks most to you? – I continue to be amazed and inspired by the intelligence and bravery of journalist and activist Masha Gessen. She is raising children in Russia. What challenges do to the children being raised by gays and lesbians in Russia face? – It’s very difficult for kids. They are often harassed and bullied at school. More importantly, they live under the constant danger that they could be taken away from their parents. Masha Gessen and her partner recently moved to New York City. They were afraid they would lose their children if they stayed in Russia, and they were right to be.
Is there no safe haven for gays and lesbians in Russia? – As Masha says: “The airport.” Those who do not have the means to leave are increasingly at risk. Do you still have family in Russia? – No. Like most Jews from the former Soviet Union, all of my relatives are in the United States or Israel. What can Americans do to stop the campaign of hate in Russia? – We must do everything we can to keep these issues in the public eye and to pressure our government to do as little business with Russia as possible. We need to pinch their pockets. Do you have any hope that public opinion towards homosexuality will one day change in Russia? – In the long run, I hope that Russia will join the rest of the developed world in changing its attitudes toward LGBT rights. But I am a practical person, and I don’t see that happening in the near future. For now, it’s only getting worse.
Michael Lucas’ Campaign of Hate: Russia and Gay Propaganda is available on DVD at Amazon.com
dorianmagazine.com
|
25
DORIAN
fashion
THE
LJUNG
EFFECT
YEARS BEFORE LOUIS VUITTON, GUCCI OR BALMAIN STARTED A LOVE AFFAIR WITH SPORTS-INSPIRED CASUAL LUXURY, ONE BRAND HAD ALREADY ESTABLISHED A LARGE FAN BASE FROM SHARP AND FUNCTIONAL TAILORING WITH TONS OF SEX APPEAL 26
|
dorianmagazine.com
i m a g e s b e n j a m i n fa l k
words jake rydqvist
styling marcus larsson
s w e d e n ’ s l a c k o f a s a v i l e r o w h e r i t a g e , Italy’s ‘sprezzatura’, and Parisian couture traditions have given designers a liberating and creative carte blanche to put their own spin on fine tailoring. Long before the likes of Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton and Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy began marrying sportswear and tailoring to create hybrid luxury menswear for the consumer craving a casual yet smart silhouette, Ljung was combining technical and traditional fabrics in both practical and technical fashion-forward silhouettes. It had done so since its inception in 2008. But let’s start at the beginning. Ljung is the brainchild of gifted creative director Marcus Larsson, who took the name from his rural, sleepy hometown. As a child he’d spend a lot of time drawing, which grew into a passion and later, after professional studies at the Nordic Design School, Marcus began dreaming about launching his own brand. These dreams came to fruition in 2006, after Marcus moved to the capital and honed his craft during internships and design positions at large retailers JC and MQ. Ljung’s razor-sharp, sportswear inspired, functional tailoring is often unadorned but don’t let this fool you as the garments are more intriguing than they might appear – be it purely decorative details like hidden gold accents on the backs of sleeve buttons, or utilitarian, like a coat with adjustable sleeves. Such clever and unique additions are what helps establish that special bond between designer and the modern dandies who keep coming back to the brand. However, it’s the slim silhouette and cuts that get the most praise. Slim suits cut perfectly to hug your physique in all the right places and show off what you’ve got, be it trouser snake or bubble butt. Or as one young and successful customer told Marcus, “Wearing Ljung gets me laid like never before.” In 2013 Marcus was awarded Fashion Brand Of The Year by the Swedish Fashion Council and now more than one hundred European stores offer Marcus’ sharp take on casual luxury, including swimwear, shoes and bags, to suit young and modern dandies. How was growing up in a small town for you? I think life is pretty much the same in a small community as in a big city. In my town, there were the Punk rockers, “Hillbillies” and lots of very religious people. In a way, one becomes more exposed to people with different values in a smaller town. It was sometimes hard to find like-minded people and I had no designer role model, but there were others, with dreams and aspirations, who really inspired me. What I miss the least is how limited everything was – be it work, friends or breakfast cereals. What makes Ljung is so popular among gay guys? If I must generalize, gay consumers can be divided into two “teams”. The “drama gays” are all about attitude and dressing like: “I am a bold individual with style and I want to show I’m gay”. The risk with this mindset is that it can be interpreted as lacking style. The other gay customers like a more “straight” look. It actually seems like the “straighter” Ljung gets, the more gay customers shop. It’s exciting to me that most of our gay customers maintain an interest in fashion and keeping fit even when they get older. I pretend this is because they want to fit into the clothes. In any case, it’s great seeing such a wide age range among the Ljung customers! What garments should all stylish men have in their closet? A pair of narrow fit tailored pants works with everything and can be super stylish when worn simply with a white T-shirt and a great haircut. What is one major hurdle young fashion brands often encounter? I would say the three-year crisis. You might get tired of working around the clock, you might conflict with your business partner or you might end up out of money. If you survive these, you can accomplish anything, as long as you play your cards right. Unfortunately, so much of the fashion industry is about finance and cash flow. How do you find the whole creative process, living with multiple seasons? I design autumn collections in the autumn and spring collections in the spring. The creative part of the process starts about twelve months before the actual collection and products end up in the stores. By the time the media asks designers about the spring collection, I’m in the middle of creating our fall collection, and the customers are talking about the collection in the store, so in a way, I work with three seasons at the same time, but in very different ways. It’s actually not that complicated. No worse than smoking, drinking cocktails and talking at the same time (laugh). How important are awards and accolades?
DORIAN
fashion
Ljung founder Marcus Larsson with model. Metal zippers give the Ashford wool coat adjustable sleeve length.
dorianmagazine.com
|
27
DORIAN
28
|
fashion
dorianmagazine.com
If nobody sees what you do, you don’t exist, so awards can definitely create a hype around the brand and really add sales, but creatively, less so. A lot of attention might actually be creatively stifling. I prefer creating from an “underdog” position so I try to go into hiding during the creative process for at least a few weeks each season, locked up in complete silence, so that I can go into my own world. Running a business, this is sometimes hard, but it really helps to remind myself why I’m doing this in the first place – I love to design clothes, simple as that! What has been your biggest success? One strong and energy-boosting experience was opening our first concept store in Stockholm, two years ago. Being able to get closer to the customer and control how we present the brand and the clothes in our own environment, including the presentation, interior design and customer service, is incredibly rewarding. How do you feel about fur? I would never use real fur. I’m against the hunting, breeding and the killing of animals for the purpose of their fur being used in the fashion industry. There are lots of alternatives to real fur which create the same feeling. What celebrity would be a dream ambassador? I would love to suit up Mr Rakim Mayers, A$AP Rocky. I love listening to hip hop when I design. It helps me “add some spice” to my classically trained fingers. Where do you see Ljung in ten years? I just want to spread my collections worldwide and open a lot of new stores. I might not have the time to design everything myself, but I definitely want to keep designing. Tell us about the sport collection you’re developing. I’m in the midst of preparing an “active sport” collection together with Stadium, launching next fall. I’m researching by traveling around and working out with fifteen different extreme sports people while doing the designs at the same time. Like my grandfather used to say; “You have to mix business with pleasure” How is the Ljung man dressing this spring? He’s tailored sporty and “super-straight”. How do you unwind and luxuriate? I like experiencing new things, like MMA Fighting. Getting away from my usual world and spending time with people who are dedicated to something completely different gives me energy. And energy is a luxury for me! What’s the secret to successfully combining a personal and private life? Mix up your personal and private life, buy a pet and keep the friends that don’t give a fuck about your latest award!
A$AP Rocky and Marcus’ favourite fragrance.
fa c t s a n d fav o u r i t e s Name: Marcus Larsson Lives: Stockholm Age: 38 Family: Boyfriend since 13 years and two female Labradors Favourite Perfume: Diptyque Philosykos Life motto: Pain is just weakness leaving the body More: Ljung.net
DORIAN
fashion
––––– MIX UP YOUR PERSONAL AND PRIVATE LIFE, BUY A PET AND KEEP THE FRIENDS THAT DON’T GIVE A FUCK ABOUT YOUR LATEST AWARD! ––––– dorianmagazine.com
|
29
DORIAN
guide
–––– XMAS GIFT GUIDE MMXIV T
–––––THIS SEASON GIFTING AFICIONADOS BALANCE SHOWSTOPPING PAZAZZ WITH A SOUPÇON OF ALTRUISM ––––– 30
|
dorianmagazine.com
DORIAN
guide
PA PA R A Z Z O : T H E E L I O SORCI COLLECTION Never-before-seen photos from a famed paparazzo make their world debut in this stunning collect i o n o f i m a g e s o f t h e w o r l d ’s m o s t iconic stars in a new light; candid, glamorous, hilarious, and always c o o l – a r e f r e s h i n g a n g l e i n t o d a y ’s hyper-Photo shopped media. $100, Roads.co
M A I S O N M A RT I N MARGIELA OBJET This minimal chic Margiela home decor object is basically a glass hourglass frozen within a resin sphere. As time flows, the ball rolls making it nearly impossible to measure. $90, Spootnik.com
ARETHA FRANKLIN SINGS T H E G R E AT D I VA C L A S S I C S The queen of soul returns with her first studio album in 13 years, a tribute to several female pop, disc o a n d r o c k ’s v o c a l s u p e r s t a r s , i n cluding Adele and Donna Summer. $11.99 amazon.com
COG CYLINDER TEA LIGHT HOLDER To m D i x o n g i v e s t h e h u m b l e t e a light holder a steam punk look with a brass-plated aluminum machine cog inspired by British engineering. $65, Eastdane.com
CHRISTIAN LACROIX COSMOS CUSHION Christian Lacroix’ attention grabbing, wondrously soft silk cushion, features a glittering, out of this world, cosmos design littered with printed gemstones and reverses to a modern geometric print. $157, Amara.com
CONNOR EMOJI S TAT I O N A RY C A R D S Ta k e a n o t e f r o m c e l e b r i t i e s l i k e Naomi Campbell and correspond w i t h C o n n o r ’s h a n d e n g r a v e d i n v i tations and place cards which set a n e l e g a n t t o n e f o r a c o c k t a i l p a r t y, dinner, or special event. 12 cards in hand lined envelopes, hand stamped, $85.00, Connornyc.com INCEPTION DISH RACK Inspired by the movie with the same name, Italian designer Luca Nichetto has designed a silicone dish rack and desk organiser shaped like a 3D model of Midtown Manhattan for design brand Seletti. Not yet priced, Seletti.it
dorianmagazine.com
|
31
DORIAN
guide
–––– XMAS GIFT GUIDE MMXIV T
H O C K R O PA E X T E N D E R H o c k m a k e s t h e w o r l d ’s m o s t e l e gant and precious sport equipment. The simple extender, made of highquality leather, walnut and aluminium, strengthens the back and chest muscles. $375, Hockdesign.com
S E L F - WAT E R I N G O R C H I D P O T Plant your orchid in this self-watering stylish pot, from Eva Solo. A nylon wick in the base of the pot allows the plant to suck water as it needs it. The orchid sits higher than the water on a false bottom, ensuring it does not become overwatered. $78, Relaxtribe.com
ZUBITS MAGNETIC SHOE CLOSURES A small revolution in footwear, Zubits are magnetic shoe closures that make your shoes insanely easy to put on and take off and give a clean look at the same time. $17, Zubits.com M A R V I S M O U T H WA S H Packaged in a gorgeous vintage apothecary-style bottle, this ultraconcentrated mouthwash, from the oral hygiene specialists at Italianbased Marvis, cleanses and refreshes with an anti-bacterial formula and strong hit of mint. $22.50, Mrporter. com
ALESSI HAND HELD VA C U U M C L E A N E R The Alessi hand held, rechargeable vacuum cleaner is super stylish and highly practical $163, Amara.com
C E S A R E PA C I O T T I B R O G U E S These blinged out Cesare Paciotti Swarovski brogues with round toe and perforated details perfectly marry the conservative with the alternative. $484, Elitestore.es
DUNGER DESIGN M A N U FA C T U R E R R I N G The handcrafted bio resin and broken maple piece ring is a piece of artful unique jewelry to complement unique individuals. $340, Shoptent. co.uk
32
|
dorianmagazine.com
–––– XMAS GIFT GUIDE MMXIV
DORIAN
guide
T
ELLIPTICAL DESKTOP MOBILE This whirling desk accent brings the fantastic world of physics to your home or office. Made of playful laser-cut aluminum shapes powdercoated in primary colors, this eyecatching desk accessory gracefully sways with the subtlest current, dancing to the delight of all who encounter it. Made in Portland, Oregon. $55, Uncomongoods.com
DETROIT BOOTS This statement boot for modern luxe bohos is entirely handmade, in a studded, hammered, washed leather, over the course of three days, a n d i t ’s b e a u t i f u l p a t i n a w i l l j u s t increase over time. $617, Spootnik. com
STRIVECTIN LABS FA C I A L T O N E R This electrotherapy facial toning device effectively tones and strengthens facial muscles for youthful definition. $199, Edcskincare. com
M I N E H E A RT D E L F CERAMIC BULLDOG The decorative ceramic bulldog introduces a modern and playful twist to the classically patterned china crockery that they take their inspiration from. It looks great on dressers, cabinets, warming by the fire or even as a table centerpiece, guarding your salt and pepper. $333, Shoptent.co.uk
O R A L - B P R O 6 0 0 0 S M A RT SERIES TOOTHBRUSH The new Oral-B toothbrush, with more brain power than the Apollo 12 guidance system, is a smart toothbrush that combined with the Oral-B App, connected via Bluetooth, allows the user to track, monitor and chart brushing performance – like an oral care personal trainer. $360, Boots.com
MEDUSA BIKER HELMET Ve r s a c e b r i n g s o u t t h e t r u e b i k e r spirit in this Medusa helmet.Safe to be worn on the streets, beautiful and fashionable. $3,725, Elitestore. es PFEILRING GOLDDACHS DOUBLE EDGE SAFETY RAZOR B o t h d a p p e r a n d e c o f r i e n d l y, a s i t makes plastic disposable razors redundant, this retro chic razor will also add a touch of bling to your routine. $50 Grooming.se
dorianmagazine.com
|
33
DORIAN
guide
–––– XMAS GIFT GUIDE MMXIV T
THOMAS & VINES MENSA LARGE CANDLESTICK The one meter tall elegant hand carved flocked candlestick is available in a wide range of colors, ranging from neon to natural. $175, Shoptent.co.uk
BULLDOG MOISTURISER, FA C E WA S H , S H AV E G E L A N D T O I L E T RY B A G This special skin care set is a must this Christmas. Bulldog Original series is packed with 8 essential oils plus green tea, green algae, konjac mannan and vitamin E to help rehydrate, clean and sooth your skin. On top of this – it smells fantastic. $59 Grooming.se
BONKERS: MY LIFE IN LAUGHS BY JENNIFER SAUNDERS Prepare for the upcoming Absolutely Fabulous movie with a hilarious, touching life story from the UK national treasure that is Jennifer Saunders. Her funny and moving memoir is filled with laughter and occasional heartache; from accidentally enrolling on a teacher training course with a young Dawn French and bluffing her way to each BBC series to her battle with cancer. $30, Penguin.co.uk
ALESSI NOE DROP STOP BOTTLE RING Say yes to this clever bejeweled ring by Giulio Iacchetti which slips over wine bottles to avoid drips. $30, Alessi.com
CROSLEY EXECUTIVE BROWN U S B T U R N TA B L E This portable, vintage-style turntable easily converts your records from vinyl to digital files, while stereo speakers let you play your favorite tunes at full volume. $189, Spootnik.com
34
|
dorianmagazine.com
THE BROKEN ARM X ADIEU TYPE 28 SHOES Parisian shoe manufacturer Adieu has teamed up with The Broken Arm b o u t i q u e t o r e l e a s e t h e Ty p e 2 8 , a shoe with an aesthetic that is both radical and poetic. The upper of the shoe makes use of premium horsehair, while the shoe rests atop a versatile crepe outsole – meticulously stitched at the bottom. $690, The Broken Arm, 12 Rue Perrée 75003, Paris France G L A S S AT O M I Z E R Cut down on chemicals and plastic containers with a multifunctional dispenser in mouth blown glass, ideal for oil/vinegar, mouthwash, water or fragrance. $61.50, Seletti.com
–––– XMAS GIFT GUIDE MMXIV
DORIAN
guide
T
KOSMOS PROJECT MIDSUMMER NIGHT BEAR MASK The wall-hanging powder coated aluminum bear mask is a modern interpretation of taxidermy to give character and a pop of color to any plain wall. $208, Shoptent.co.uk
S E L E T T I B O X I TA L I A PUNCHING BALL Let go of frustrations and build muscle and stamina in the process with the Boxitalia punching ball, designed by Selab in minimal chic white leather. $422, Allmodernoutlet.com
GLOW BLOK SCULPTURE The eye catching Blok sculpture by Anna Glasbrook glows as if lit from within, brightening up any space and mood with a splash of bright on trend color. Using a material that captures the light and transfers it to t h e e d g e s , i t ’s b o u n d t o b e a t a l k piece. $760, Shoptent.co.uk
MONKEYLECTRIC MONKEY LIGHTS Adding both safety and style, these ultra-bright LEDs strap to the spokes to create stunning images and animations within the bicycle wheel. From $39.95, Thegrommet.com GEO SOAPROCK Decorative and functional, the eart h y, v e g e t a b l e - b a s e d s o a p s f o r t i f i e d with natural and organic extracts that gently remove excess oils while cleansing the skin, illuminate when placed under water, bringing a volt of beauty to your everyday routine. $12, Anthropologie.eu
TA B L E J E W E L S B O O K E N D Celebrated designer Laura Bohinc has created sophisticated brass bookends, with geometric filigree patterns inspired by highways in Japan, for renowned Swedish brass producer Skultuna. $130, Laurabohinc. com
B U B B L E T A N K B Y P S A LT D E S I G N The beautiful hand-blown drooping fish glass bowl steals away the attention from the fish, creating a unique talk-piece. $470, Psaltdesign.co.uk
dorianmagazine.com
|
35
DORIAN
guide
–––– XMAS GIFT GUIDE MMXIV T
KERNEL SIFTER POPCORN BOWL This innovative handsomely glazed stoneware bowl designed by ceramicist Catherine Smith, features a clever, colander-inspired bottom. Made in Portland, Oregon. $75, Uncomongoods.com
FENDI TOTE BAG The famous Italian house brings back the bugs in a capsule collection dedicated to the small kind monsters, including bags, pouches, wallets and key rings. Monster face canvas and calfskin tote bag. $742, Colette.fr
O TA G O D E S I G N M I U N G U I D O L Artisans in Kenya make the decorative idol; object or paperweight in sand cast recycled brass. $176, Shoptent.co.uk E A S T PA K PA K ’ R C U S T O M I S E D B A C K PA C K MSGM, Jean Paul Gaultier and Manolo Blahnik are a few of the iconic designers who’ve transformed plain Eastpak backpacks into art pieces, for an online charity auction, that t a k e s p l a c e o n Wo r l d A i d s D a y, D e cember 1st. Bid online to help raise awareness about HIV/AIDS around the world. Artiststudio.eastpak.com
S W I S S T O TA L S K I N R E N E WA L S o l v e s o m e o n e ’s p r o b l e m s w i t h a c n e scars or unwanted wrinkles with the S w i s s To t a l S k i n R e n e w a l – a r e v o lutionary treatment consisting of three unique products to treat the skin both from inside and outside, s i m u l t a n e o u s l y. T h i s t r e a t m e n t w i l l naturally restore skin damages and problems like wrinkles, acne, scars, stretch marks and cellulites. $246, Grooming.se
K I N K Y G AY S E X - A G A M E P L A N An introduction to everything for the fearless gay man, a guidebook to all the newest and most exciting practices for those who like it ‘kinky’. From spanking, group sex, and dirty talk to a complete inventory of the best sex toys, this book brings together all the information you need to open up whole new erotic horizons—by yourself, with a partner, or with several. $40, Brunogmuender.com
I TA L I A I N D E P E N D E N T I-V/I-TEEN SUNGLASSES These retro with a twist sunglasses from Italia Independent features the signature style blue velvet covered wayfarer frames, tinted lenses, thick black arms and curved tips. $ 1 6 4 , Te s s a b i t . c o m
36
|
dorianmagazine.com
–––– XMAS GIFT GUIDE MMXIV T
DORIAN
guide
H O U S E O F N ATA L I A V O T I V E The fashion brand HON goes luxe home decor with a new range of votive. Pink Champagne emotes memories of Mediterranean nights with notes of citrus and thyme. $26,5, R a g l a d y. s e
HERMÈS NAUTILUS PEN H e r m e s c r e a t e s t h e w o r l d ’s m o s t i m pressive fountain pen, in anodized aluminum, brushed stainless steel, iridium, and a 10-carat white gold nib. The cap less pen opens and closes by an innovative rotating mechanism that is exclusive to Hermes. $1,6400
MINDFULNESS & T H E N AT U R A L W O R L D Discover how to connect with nature in this engaging journey through the great outdoors with Claire Thompson. As well as tips on how to use nature to be more mindful in everyday life, there are also ideas about how to live more sustainably and protect nature in our everyday lives. $ 1 2 , C y g n u s r e v i e w. c o m
RED RIBBON MACRAMÉ BRACELET Umbria-based fashion brand Crucianic invites anyone to join the fight against AIDS with a simple macramé bracelet, already worn by numerous celebrities, including Victoria and David Beckham and Princess Stephanie of Monaco. $15, Crucianic. com
L O U I S V U I T T O N F L E E C E PA C K Marc Newson, the most influential industrial designer of his generat i o n , h a s m e r g e d L o u i s Vu i t t o n ’s iconic pattern on sturdy canvas with contemporary colored soft shearling – also available in blue and beige – creating a unique stunning sculptural backpack. $5,900 Celebrating. m o n o g r a m . l v.
JIMMY CHOO MAN EDT The famous, high-end designer house of shoes Jimmy Choo finally launched its first male fragrance Jimmy Choo Man this year. British actor Kit Harington, known for his role of John Snow in the TV series ”Game of Thrones”, is the face of the fragrance which is sporty yet sophisticated.EDT 100 ml, $69.90, Feelunique.com
dorianmagazine.com
|
37
DORIAN
guide
–––– XMAS GIFT GUIDE MMXIV T
M A R I M E K K O + PA P E R L E S S P O S T P E R S O N A L I Z E D S TAT I O N A RY The iconic Finnish design house Marimekko, known for their vibrant prints has partnered with paper brand Paperless Post to create a delightful customizable collection that f u s e s M a r i m e k k o ’s b o l d p r i n t s w i t h chic correspondence. The 40-design lineup ranges from thank-you notes, party invitations, and personalized s t a t i o n e r y, i n b o t h d i g i t a l a n d p r i n t . Starts at 25 cent, Paperlesspost.com
B R A U N WAT E R F L E X W E T & D R Y S H AV E R This powerful shaver is specifically designed to be used in the shower, with or without foam. It makes shaving anywhere a breeze, thanks to a swivel head, separate trimmer head, and ergonomic, non-slip grip. From around $140, Bloomingdales and Ta r g e t
SAINT LAURENT L E AT H E R T R I M M E D TA R TA N B A C K PA C K Conservative grown ups can still exude trendy punk attitude with Saint L a u r e n t ’s b o l d b a c k p a c k i n l e a t h e r and tartan fabric. $1,500, Mrporter. com
A B E N D L A N D TA B L E T & S M A RT P H O N E H O L D E R This small, limited edition sculpture – a nod to our high tech homes – comes in white- or black marble offering a decorative home to phones and tablets. Signed by the artist. $430, Shoptent.co.uk
RECIPE FOR MEN BEARD ELIXIR R e c i p e f o r m e n ’s s o o t h i n g a n d c o n ditioning beard elixir will help you get that flawless beard in a minute. Made from a fresh mixture of natural oils and extracts, it conditions, softens and adds shine, leaving your beard perfectly groomed and easy to comb and moisturizers calms your skin and helps relieve redness, itching, and irritation. $22, Grooming.se H O R S T: P H O T O G R A P H E R O F S T Y L E Created in collaboration with a headline exhibition at the V&A, this book journeys into the extraordinary c a r e e r o f o n e o f Vo g u e ’s m o s t p r o lific and creative contributors, phot o g r a p h e r H o r s t P. H o r s t . R e n o w n e d for his nude studies and still-life p h o t o g r a p h y, t h i s s t u d y a l s o e x p l o res his little-known travel photography and his high-art pieces. $65, Va m . a c . u k
38
|
dorianmagazine.com
CORKCICLE WINE CHILLER Regardless of the weather outside, the forecast of perfectly chilled wine is a 100% thanks to this icicl e , m a d e o f B PA - f r e e p l a s t i c f i l l e d w i t h a r e u s a b l e f r e e z e g e l . I t ’s j u s t as efficient for maintaining chilled white wine or to bring up red wines to their perfect temperature. $18 uncommongoods.com
–––– XMAS GIFT GUIDE MMXIV T
VA L E N T I N O : AT T H E E M P E R O R ’ S TA B L E C O O K B O O K Yo u ’ r e i n v i t e d i n t o t h e h a u t e c o u t u r e d e s i g n e r ’s r e f i n e d w o r l d o f g r a c e f u l and cultured living including quite e a s y r e c i p e s b y Va l e n t i n o ’s p e r s o n a l chefs and inspirational images by Oberto Gili of his opulent residences in Gstaad, London, Rome, New Yo r k , a n d P a r i s , a s w e l l a s o n h i s yacht. $150.00, Assouline.com
DORIAN
guide
M A R C J A C O B S T E R RY J O G G E R S Marc Jacobs drawstring joggers bring a luxe element to the relaxed style. The reversed French terry creates a soft exterior and is trimmed by contrast ribbons on the out seams. $595, Eastdane.com
WISHING GLASS BALL Glass artist Jill Henrietta Davis has conjured up a way to keep your wishes. The hand-blown, blue glass ball comes with 52 tiny slips of paper for you to store away to become part of t h e d i s p l a y. K e e p p e r s o n a l , g i f t e d , or on display as a focus for your positive thoughts, or as a memento of blessings already received. Handmade in Pawtucket,Rhode Island. $32, Uncomongoods.com
R O B E R T O C AVA L L I R O S E J E W E L C A K E S TA N D The extravagant fine bones china cake stand from Roberto Cavalli, with a floral and coral print, is the crowning jewel on a dessert table. $628, Amara.com
A R E AWA R E B A N A N A B O W L The Banana Bowl by Harry Allen is a statement centerpiece made from resin and marble cast from a ripe bunch of bananas. Whether filled w i t h f r e s h f r u i t s o r l e f t e m p t y, t h i s unusual bowl sculpture exudes elegance adorning an ordinary tabletop or coffee table. $140, Allmodernoutlet.com
KENZO MIXED PRINT I PA D H O L D E R This iPad holder brings together 3 o f K e n z o ’s m o s t r e c o g n i z a b l e p r i n t s . Featuring both the iconic tiger and the all-seeing eye, it is a characteristically bold design. The functional interior features space to store an iPad in addition to a document compartments. $225, Oki-ni.com
EXUVIANCE DEPUFFING EYE SERUM E x u v i a n c e ’s s p e c i a l t r i p l e m i c r o roller applicator is perfect for depuffing the eye area. It gently massages to stimulate circulation and drainage while delivering a weightless, high potency depuffing comp l e x . To g e t h e r , t h e m a s s a g e a p p l i c a tor and formula help decongest the eye area and attack puffiness. $72, Grooming.se
dorianmagazine.com
|
39
DORIAN
design
light L E T
T H E R E
B E
In the spring of 2007, Belo Cipriani, a young gay man living in San Francisco, was beaten and robbed of his sight at the hands of his gay friends. At the age of twenty-six, he was forced to relearn how to walk, cook, and date – in the dark
fas h i o n i m a g e T O N Y V E L O Z
40
|
dorianmagazine.com
belo portraits TODD PICKERING, guide dogs for the blind
I realized that everything I knew about blindness was inaccurate,” he explains today. “Many of my erroneous assumptions about blindness had been created by Hollywood and novels and I wanted to put something out that properly portrayed what it’s like to lose your sight in the 21st century. In his first book, Blind: A Memoir, Belo Cipriani chronicles the two years immediately following his assault. “Disability doesn’t mean the end of someone’s life,” he continues. In his book, Belo narrates the recondite world of the blind, where microwaves, watches, and computers talk, and guide dogs guard as well as lead. Readers learn about new apps that can describe colors, decode money, and allow the blind to text messages. On the flip side, we learn about areas that have not been addressed yet. There are no apps that make dating easier for the blind. Belo relies on meeting men through friends, at public events, or through social media, which can be challenging. “Blindness makes it tough to flirt with guys in public,” he says. “I’m forced to get to know someone’s personality before I know what he looks like and if I’m attracted to him physically. After all, I can’t always put my hands on people’s faces,” he laughs. He feels the gay community has been slow to embrace people with disabilities and is anxious to see some on the covers of LGBT magazines and newspapers, and cast as actors and characters in LGBT independent cinema.
“WHEN I BECAME BLIND,
DORIAN
design
––––– People with disabilities are
often de-eroticized and romanticized. We are never seen as sexy or funny ––––– “People with disabilities are often de-eroticized and romanticized. We are never seen as sexy or funny. We’re often portrayed as saints and inspirational figures, not regular people. “Disabled people, first and foremost, are people,” he says. “We crave the same things everyone else does no matter how we get around.” Belo Miguel Cipriani was born in Guatemala City to parents of Italian and Brazilian heritage. Before evolving into a fulltime writer, he worked as a systems engineer and a technical recruiter. He is currently the Writer-in-Residence at Holy Names University and Editorin-Chief of its literary journal. He also writes columns on employment-related issues for the San Francisco Chronicle and Houston Chronicle and his monthly “Seeing in the Dark” column for several LGBT publications. Earlier this year, Belo was named a spokesperson for Guide Dogs for the Blind, the organization that provides trained canines to visually impaired people throughout the United States and Canada. Guide Dogs For The Blind gets no money from the government and relies solely on volunteers and donors. Belo speaks at many of their fundraising events and represents Guide Dogs for the Blind in Spanish and English media. Belo is also a frequent lecturer at colleges. Most recently, he was a keynote speaker at Yale University, as part of their Hispanic Heritage Month celebration. He spoke to students about how the Latino culture shaped his journey in becoming a writer. During National Disability Awareness Month, he addressed the students at the University of San Francisco about the appropriate ways to interact with disabled people. It’s an especially sensitive topic for Belo as he feels most people remain blind to the challenges he faces as a visually impaired man. “In New York City, a cab driver would not let me board because of Oslo, my guide dog,” he explains. “I have also been denied service at restaurants and coffee shops in several major cities because they wouldn’t let him in.” International travel is very challenging for Belo because some countries do not grant permission for blind people to enter with their canine companions. Also, boarding and deplaning is difficult because airport staff do not know how to assist him. Belo feels travel, hospitality, and food industries should provide disability training to employees. “Educating our population on disability issues will produce awakened generations,” he says. If he could regain his sight today, he wouldn’t. “I meet a lot of people who tell me they pray that I get my vision back. I always tell them to pray for my health instead.” Nor would Belo change his ethnicity or sexuality. “I am happy exactly how I am,” he says.
Blind Ambition: Belo Cipriani aims to build swareness of gays with disabilities
B e l o C i p r i a n i ’s B L I N D i s a v a i l a b l e at all major booksellers. Belocipriani.com
dorianmagazine.com
|
41
DORIAN
travel
EASTERN EUROPE’S PREMIER GAY DESTINATION INVITES YOU TO EXPERIENCE HISTORICAL FAIRYTALE ARCHITECTURE AND THE LATEST ATTRACTION: MEN!
CZECH MATE PRAGUE CASTLE, the largest medieval castle in the world, is seen from all of Prague. Bohemia is renowned for its production of extraordinary glass c r y s t a l w o r k . D e c h e m ’s h a n d b l o w n GLASS TOWN is a beautiful example of how tradition marries c o n t e m p o r a r y. $ 3 4 2 5 , D e c h e m s t u dio.com 42
|
dorianmagazine.com
DORIAN
svata klara
travel
dox grand cafe imperial
EAST MEETS WEST AND OLD MEETS NEW P R A G U E ’ S FA I RY TA L E A R C H I T E C T U R E a n d p o s i t i o n o n t h e V l t a v a r i ver make it a truly romantic destination with some of the most amazing G o t h i c a n d R o m a n e s q u e a r c h i t e c t u r e i n E u r o p e . B u t l e t ’s f a c e i t – m o s t o f P r a g u e ’s g a y t o u r i s t s a r e n ’t h e r e t o e x p l o r e t h e c i t y ’s i m p r e s s i v e p a s t as a vanguard of art and science, or do damage to their plastic (as the city b o a s t s i n c r e d i b l e v a l u e f o r m o n e y ) . I t ’s P r a g u e ’s n e w r e p u t a t i o n a s E a s t e r n E u r o p e ’s c a p i t a l o f s i n f u l f r i v o l i t y t h a t b e c k o n s . T h e C z e c h s a r e q u i t e b l a s é a b o u t e r o t i c a a n d e s c o r t i n g , a n d i t ’s a f a c t t h a t a l a r g e n u m b e r o f t h e gorgeous men you see in the clubs are straight, but often make extra cash grand café imperial by having sex with other men. But before you give up on your romantic hopes and dreams, revel in the fact that there are many fresh-faced local gays who hover around coffee shops and clubs, looking for puppy love (or at least doggy-style action). AT T R A C T I O N S T h e “ g o l d e n c i t y o f s p i r e s ” d o e s n ’t r e a l l y c a t e r t o f a n s o f c o n t e m p o r a r y alphonse mucha a r c h i t e c t u r e – t h i s c h i c d e s t i n a t i o n i s l i t t e r e d w i t h s o m e o f t h e w o r l d ’s m o s t b e a u t i f u l B a r o q u e a r c h i t e c t u r e . To u r t h e c i t y b y f o o t , S e g w a y o r i n a v i n t a g e c a r t o m a k e t h e m o s t o f i t , a s P r a g u e ’s c o b b l e s t o n e O L D T O W N i s picturesque enough to make history nerds drool. Here you’ll be inundated with touristy shops selling traditional souvenirs, famous Czech glassware a n d c r y s t a l j e w e l r y, l i q u o r s , S o v i e t - e r a m e m o r a b i l i a , j e w e l r y, a n d a n t i q u e store treasures. For admirers of spectacular contemporary glass, the exhibition ‘Between A r t a n d C r a f t s m a n s h i p ’ i s a t t h e M O S E R A R T G A L L E R Y, r i g h t b y t h e O l d To w n S q u a r e ( U n t i l 3 1 D e c e m b e r 2 0 1 4 . M o s e r - g l a s s . c o m ) . I t f e a t u r e s t h e striking works by the artistic director of Moser Glassworks – one of our favorite Bohemian glass brands. Prague is the place to drink ABSINTHE. Connoisseurs, however, recommend skipping a vulgar burning shot and instead opt for a place like Absintherie (Absintherie, Jilská 7, Absintherie.cz) – also a museum – to sip one of 60 real kinds of Absinthe, preferably mixed with water, such as the F r e n c h b r a n d A m e r o r t h e S w i s s b r a n d B u t t e r f l y. P A R I Z S K A S T R E E T i s e l e g a n t a n d f a s h i o n a b l e , r u n n i n g o f f O l d To w n Square. This beautiful tree-lined street boasts the very best quality shopp i n g a n d d i n i n g i n t h e c i t y. H e r e y o u ’ l l f i n d t h e w o r l d ’s m o s t e x c l u s i v e b r a n d s , i n c l u d i n g L o u i s Vu i t t o n , H e r m e s P a r i s , R o l e x a n d G u c c i . On the way to PRAGUE CASTLE (Hrad.cz), cross the stunning Charles Bridge (commissioned by King Charles IV in 1357) which spans 16 arc h e s a n d i s l i n e d w i t h 3 0 B a r o q u e s t a t u e s . T h e c a s t l e ’s i m p o s i n g s i l h o u e t t e c r o w n s t h e e n t i r e c i t y. W i t h a m i s h m a s h o f a r c h i t e c t u r a l s t y l e s i t h a s been a seat of Czech kings, emperors and presidents for a thousand years. While there, tour the beautiful Palace Gardens, fountains and pavilions and try some of the subsequent vineyard wine. Gag over the monumental St. Vitus Cathedral next door with its stained-glass windows by the a worldacclaimed Czech Art Nouveau artist Alfons Mucha – most widely known for the posters he executed for Sarah Bernhardt in the fashionable world of fin-de-siècle Paris – then revel in his extraordinary heritage at the Mucha Museum, the world´s first, housed in a palace in the very heart of Prague, (Kaunický palác, Panská 7, Mucha.cz) D O X : T H E C E N T E R F O R C O N T E M P O R A RY A RT ( P o u p e t o v a 1 , P r a g u e 7, Dox.cz) has been an international phenomenon since its opening in 2008. Located in a stunning reconstructed industrial building in the Holešovice district, it plays home to spectacular exhibitions and an incredible design shop.
moser
dorianmagazine.com
|
43
palffy DORIAN
travel
B A R S , R E S TA U R A N T S A N D N I G H T L I F E Hidden away behind a pair of giant doors on the second floor of the Pálffy Palace building, one of the most famous baroque buildings in the capital i s t h e o p u l e n t P Á L F F Y R E S TA U R A N T ( Va l d š t e j n s k á 1 4 , P a l f f y. c z ) . A n extensive fine dining tasting menu with wine, in this cinematic yet unpretentious environment, costs around $67. Fashionistas, porn stars, old couples and twinks converge during all hours at CAFÉ-CAFÉ (Rytírská 10, Facebook.com/cafecafeprague). Have a rendez-vous over a glass of bubbly Bohemia sec or a piece of cake the size of a small child. The cute and friendly staff will make you feel right at home in the industrial chic environment. Slightly seedy old men and groups of fun young guys converge at the u n d e r g r o u n d v e n u e E S C A P E ( V j á m e 8 , O l d To w n ) . T h e p o p u l a r s t r i p a n d e s c o r t b a r o f f e r s e r o t i c s h o w s w i t h l o c a l g u y s i n a s w a n k y, l a v i s h l y d e c o rated space. Performances range from awkward amateurs to seasoned pros w h o t h e n w o r k t h e r o o m f o r t i p s . J u s t r e m e m b e r : i t ’s “ p a y t o p l a y ” . S V A T A K L A R A R E S T A U R A N T ( U Tr o j s k é h o Z á m k u 3 5 , n e x t t o P r a g u e Zoo, Svataklara.cz) is located in a cosy cave once used as a wine cella r, 1 6 m e t e r s u n d e r g r o u n d a n d o n o n e o f P r a g u e ’s v i n e y a r d s , t h i s u n i q u e f i n e d i n i n g r e s t a u r a n t i s s u r e t o c r e a t e a n e x p e r i e n c e . I t ’s f u r n i s h e d w i t h antiques, baroque statues, period pictures and Persian carpets, offset by kitschy LED lighting. The restaurant offers pickup and drop-off – which perhaps Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie enjoyed when they recently held a private dinner party here. To r e v e l i n t h e m a r v e l o u s l y h e a r t y t r a d i t i o n a l C z e c h c u i s i n e , h e a d downstairs into the atmospheric beer hall restaurant U VEJVODU (Jilska 4, O l d To w n , R e s t a u r a c e u v e j v o d u . c z ) , s e t i n t h e h e a r t o f P r a g u e ’ s O l d To w n , i n a h i s t o r i c a l b u i l d i n g d a t i n g b a c k t o 1 4 0 3 . Tr y t h e r o t i s s e r i e p o r k k n e e dipped in horseradish and mustard – an exquisite ode to meat lovers. T E R M I X ( Tr e b i z s k e h o 4 a , 2 2 - 0 5 , C l u b - t e r m i x . c z ) i s T H E n i g h t c l u b i n P r a g u e – f u n , f l i r t y a n d j a m - p a c k e d o n We d n e s d a y s , F r i d a y s a n d S a t u r d a y s . W h e n t h e Te r m i x c r o w d g e t s t i r e d o f f l i r t i n g , d r i n k i n g , d a n c i n g a n d visiting the darkroom, they move on to its larger sister club TERMAX (Vinohradská 40, 22-06, Club-max.cz), just five minutes down the road. Admission is free so after downing even more well-made drinks you’ll be ready to work the stripper poles on the dance floor. S A U N A B A B Y L O N I A ( M a r t i n s k a 6 , S a u n a b a b y l o n i a . c z ) i s o n e o f P r a g u e ’s oldest saunas, conveniently located right in the heart of the center, with pools and a gym.
termix
u vejvodu café café
44
|
dorianmagazine.com
moods
A C C O M O D AT I O N L u x u r y, t e c h n o l o g y a n d u n i q u e d e sign come together at the stylish MOODS BOUTIQUE HOTEL at a peaceful location in the center of Prague. The youthful interior is r a n k e d b y t r a v e l w e b s i t e Tr i p A d visor amongst the top 10 trendiest hotels in Europe. (Klimentská 2006/28, Rooms from around $115. Hotelmoods.com) The HOTEL IMPERIAL and the famous GRAND CAFÉ IMPERIAL in the center of Prague, formerly frequented by Franz Kafka, is an Art D e c o l o v e r ’s d r e a m . T h e e x t e r i o r s , with Cubist elements, are offset by the interiors, decorated with Art Nouveau mosaics and fitted with original pictures and stylish Cubist furniture. Built in 1914, the building is one of the complex of historical Prague buildings included in t h e U N E S C O Wo r l d H e r i t a g e l i s t . (Na Porící 1072/15, Rooms from around $329, Hotel-imperial.cz)
DORIAN
travel
Our city sanctuary of choice is EMBLEM HOTEL, in the urban cent e r o f P r a g u e , j u s t o f f O l d To w n Square. This luxurious 5-star, art deco-inspired haven has a seasoned and professional internationally trained staff to match the glam interior design created in collaboration with the firm Design Dialog. The result is a careful reconstruction of an existing building from t h e b e g i n n i n g o f t h e l a s t c e n t u r y, yet tastefully endowed with all the modern accouterments we enjoy t o d a y. It delivers an eclectic atmosphere that is difficult to part from, once checked in. The signature suites include airport transfer, a 30-minute massage, a welcome drink and a cavernous walk-in rainforest shower. The piece-deresistance in the eclectic Library Suite is a unique copper bath, large enough for two. Or more. Platnerska 19, Rooms from around $75. Emblemprague.com
dorianmagazine.com
|
45
DORIAN
promotion stockholm auktionsverk presents a series of –
INTERIOR DESIG N ARCHETYPES
–––
Along with a nice gift, first time visitors to our home sometimes bring a preconceived notion of our interior design style. Whether your taste is over-the-top glam or understated cool, renowned auction house Stockholm Auktionsverk offers a virtual smorgasbord of covetable hero pieces to complete your design fantasies 46
|
dorianmagazine.com
–––
ornamental BIRDCAGE oscarian style CHANDELIER s i l v e r C H A M PA G N E C O O L E R rococo DESKTOP from tidö castle carl lagerberg SCULPTURE g u s t a v i a n s t y l e S O FA PA I N T I N G b y p r i n c e e u g e n Africana FIGURINE by Sven Lundqvist gilded bronze CANDLESTICKS jl hess TOY RACE CAR
DORIAN
promotion
– No 0 6 –
Traditionalist
description This conservative trust fund baby has seemingly inherited both apartment and taste from his mamie, but concerned about the rest of the family fortune, he often stays in the closet, failing to realize his overcompensating taste already outs him. key pieces Greco–Roman nudes, Oversize furniture, Antiques, Grand To u r i t e m s , d e c o r a t i v e f i n e a r t , figurines, exotica motto ”Gold is a neutral”
STOCKHOLMS AUKTIONSVERK is a leading Nordic marketplace for art, crafts and antiques from a variety of ages and epochs. The Company was founded in 1674. As such, they are the oldest auction house in the world still o p e r a t i n g t o d a y. T h e y o p e r a t e t h e i r b u s i n e s s i n S t o c k h o l m f r o m t w o a d d r e s ses: Stockholms Auktionsverk at Nybrogatan 32 in Östermalm, where they hold their large quality and special auctions, and Stadsauktion at Maga-sin 5 in Frihamnen, where, they have their online auctions Auktionsverket.se, Stadsauktion.se dorianmagazine.com
|
47
DORIAN
celebrity
words gary duff
SSWANSONG DAME EDNA’S
48
|
dorianmagazine.com
or bedazzled cat eye glasses, reminds me and many others of when we first encountered Barry Humphries’ magical character. A simple YouTube search provides an abundance of Dame Edna clips, in which she is either hosting guests on her talk show, embarrassing celebrities during her standup routines or simply making us laugh with some of comedy’s quickest quips and punchlines. It was the sound of that unmistakable voice, with her jovial “Gary, darling!”, that made all the difference as I envisioned my interviewee on the other end of the phone line, lounging in a coastal Italian villa. Even at the age of 80, Dame Edna’s wit is as sharp as ever as she embarks on her final farewell tour, which concludes in the US next year. THE MERE MENTION OF HER MAUVE LOCKS
DORIAN
celebrity
AFTER MORE THAN SIXTY YEARS IN THE BUSINESS, AUSTRALIAN HOUSEWIFE TURNED ENTERTAINMENT SUPERSTAR, DAME EDNA EVERAGE IS TRULY IN A CLASS OF HER OWN
I was so upset to hear this’ll be your last tour—your farewell tour! Well listen darling, I have to, sooner or later, hang up my gladiolus. For those of you who don’t know, the gladiolus is my lucky flower, and I used to buy a small bunch and put it on the piano on the stage when I did my wonderful early shows. And then womn, in the front row of the orchestra, kept staring at them and not me. So I decided that I would give my audiences as many gladioli as I could afford. Do you know that I spent thousands of dollars a week on these gladies—sometimes out of season? I have to import them from Brazil, from Mexico, from Lithuania—wherever that might be— Thailand, and then they go into the audience and they look beautiful! And when the audience sings, as I get them to do, they wave those gladies in time to the music. It’s such a lovely sight for me because, you know, for me, Gary, the audience is the show. You think you’re coming to see me, but I am coming to see you possums! And again for those who don’t know me, I call my friends in the audience “possums”, after those cuddly little Australian animals. But you’re a gigastar— Well look, I have to say goodbye sooner or later. And the name America keeps cropping up in the news, and there are a lot of people in the world who haven’t the faintest idea what it’s like. So in a way, I’m helping to put America on the map and let the world know what a nice place it is, and above all, what lovely people live there. I’m a sort of unpaid, up to a point, publicist for the USA. This tour is taking me to some of your wonderful cultural centers. I can’t remember where I’m going... I’m going to Los Angeles, where I have a lot of friends. Sadly, little Lauren Bacall won’t be there; darling Joan Rivers, because you know, Joan Rivers was the first person to tell me to come to America. She said, “Edna,” —she came to see me in London, she was on my TV show, and she said—, “Edna, they will love you! You must go!” So I did and I’ve always thanked her. And I’m still—do you know I’m still wearing black? A black dress in memory of my darling friend. Of course, little Robin Williams was a close friend of mine; Larry Hagman, so many old friends. But there are new ones too, and I’m very, very grateful there are. I haven’t got Jay Leno to go and see in Los Angeles. There’s Ellen, who’s got a little Australian girlfriend called Portia de Rossi. So I’ll be visiting them. I might even be on that show. You’ve played a central role in creating so many stars: Olivia Newton John, Kylie Minogue, Hugh Jackman—what is it that makes a star do you think? I must tell you, Gary, in Australia, I had a little drama school, a little acting school. It was in my kitchen, and I would be busy cooking for my invalid husband—his name was Norm—he could only eat pureed food. It was a terrible shame because I had to put cakes, roast beef, everything into the blender. He’d just drink my meals through a straw. But every now and then, there was a knock on my kitchen door. And there would be a couple, a family pushing a little mite forward, and they said to me—I remember
dorianmagazine.com
|
49
DORIAN
celebrity
–––––
the Minogue family said, “Would you look after Kylie? She has potential, we think. Groom her, Edna, GROOM her!” And I did. The same happened with Hugh Jackman, with Russell Crowe, with Nicole Kidman, with Cate Blanchett, Geoffrey Rush. They’re all Australians, and they were NOTHING until I groomed them
Embroidered patch jacket LOUIS VUITTON
50
|
dorianmagazine.com
this very well with the Minogue family—they said, “Would you look after Kylie? She has potential, we think. Groom her, Edna, GROOM her!” And I did. The same happened with Hugh Jackman, with Russell Crowe, with Nicole Kidman, with Cate Blanchett—all of those people—Geoffrey Rush. They’re all Australians, and they were nothing until I groomed them. I’d get them to do single songs, dress up, all that type of thing. Do you know, when Cate Blanchett got the Oscar, not long ago - for her role in Woody Allen, in Blue Jasmine - if you run that tape, you will see when she gets the Oscar - watch her lips, watch her lips, Gary! - she whispers, “Thank you, Edna. I am nothing without you.” This is not me singing my own praises. I am modesty incarnate. And the Americans you’ve mentored? I keep in touch. I had a call from little Lauren Bacall before she passed and she said, “I wish you were here, Edna.” Those things are so important to me. I feel, in these times, when America takes the lead in world affairs—and you can’t stop America doing it, some people say unfortunately—but when it does, there has to be someone who is not an American to stand up for the USA, and I do it. A lot of people have said to me I’m not going to mention the White House because the Obamas have said “Don’t bring us into it, Edna,” - but they have said, “Edna, if you’re retiring from the theater, please do one last victory lap in our country.” So that’s what I’m doing. This is my victory lap. Not a bad name for a show, is it? No, it’s pretty good. To give you an idea, first of all, listeners, I am not an attractive woman of, well, you might say, middle years, middle aged woman. I’m approaching 70. Unfortunately, from the wrong direction. And I dress superbly. I have beautiful, beautiful clothes, designed by my bachelor boy son, Kenny. Kenny has a big following as it is, and even Lady Gaga has asked Kenny to design dresses for her. But Kenny isn’t very keen on, shall we say, extreme women. He likes someone that women all over the world can identify with. So he makes my clothes, I stand on the stage, I talk to the audience, and they fall literally, Gary, into a trance. I advise people, I encourage audience participation, I sing, I dance! Eat your heart out, Debbie Reynolds! Is that what people should expect when they come to your show? They can expect, first of all, laughter. Now, I don’t set out to be a comedienne. But do you know that a lot of people laugh out of relief? They laugh because they’ve heard the truth spoken at last! They hear it. Let me say this, Gary: I’ve been approached by an American company that wants to turn me into a proper religion—a religion! The Church of Edna. I resisted that because I don’t approve of it. I don’t want to use my powers in that way, but I do have a healing effect on people. A lot of people have written to me saying, “We came to one of your shows. We didn’t know what to expect. We had a few aches and pains, some of them radical, and we left... transformed.” When you laugh, Gary, in the case of women, particularly, those muscles are used, which are really only used on about one other life situation. I’m not going into more detail about that. But it has a profound effect, laughter. It’s a healer. It’s also—and I’m going to use a word now that I hope nice people reading will appreciate—laughter can be an aphrodisiac. Couples who come to me, who’ve not really had intimate relations for years, have gone home, and barely left the house for weeks. Speaking of relationships, do you have a dream man? Are you looking for someone? Do you know what I’ve found in life? If you look, you don’t find. Love catches you by surprise, Gary. Are you single? There are few flirtations here and there. Yes, that’s right, Gary. I can hear it in your voice. You’re open to life itself, and the surprises of life. Love has to catch us by surprise, when we are the least looking for it. It’s the same as laughter. I’m single; my husband passed away a long time ago, and of course a lot of people have courted me. I’ve been taken to dinner and also to things like Larry Hagman, in particular, years ago. More recently, of course, little Hugh Jackman—he’s too young for me though, frankly. One day, the stage door will say “Edna, there’s someone to see you.” I’ll go down there and I’ll see this person, and I’ll say something like, “Oh, George, you’ve just
been in Venice. You’re married.” Don’t take a moral view of it. Married men do find me attractive. But I don’t want to break up a marriage, as recent a marriage as that. I read in your book, My Gorgeous Life, that Australian cultural attaché Sir Les Patterson had taken you out on a date some time ago? Les Patterson, readers, is an Australian diplomat, who is really a creation of my manager, Barry Humphries. He is a person of extreme vulgarity. He is no particular Australian because Australians are generally refined. Once, years ago, when I was a young girl, he asked me to the movies. I went and I’ll never go out with him again. I was sitting in the back row of the movies with this person, and he offered me something quite unacceptable—and it wasn’t a chocolate. It was not a chocolate. It was much more indigestible than that. And I’m disappointed, Gary, that you should mention his name. My apologies Dame Edna, but I also have to ask about your manager—since you brought up Barry Humphries— and his book, Handling Edna, which was not very flattering. The first line reads, “I wish I had never met Edna Everage.” My thoughts, actually, are residing with my legal adviser at the moment. I have had this manager from day one, when I was a young married woman doing amateur theatrical work, and I met this rather effeminate man and he asked if he could manage me. He got me to sign a document, which is proved to be legally binding. I’m stuck with him. He’s got his hand well in the register. In fact, he’s got the scars on his wrist to prove it. Because every time I feel his digits, I slam the door on them. However, I’m not doing the work that I do in this farewell tour for money. It is out of genuine love and concern, and if you don’t know who I am, possums— there I am, again using my favorite term of affection— Google me! And when you see me, blog away! Twitter, tweet, blog! I’m coming to a beautiful theater near you. Who do you find most complimentary to your own style? My style is unique. I don’t think there is really anybody who—I mean, I used to like Carol Burnett when she looked like Carol Burnett, you know? Joan, I liked. Joan used to say, “Oh, have I gone too far?” Generally, I would say, “Yes, you have, Joan.” But there are so many nice little people doing things. I’m not up to date, Gary, but there are lovely people in films and on television, who I think are holding their own very, very well. It’s just that I am unique. I’m not really like anybody else. And my last question for you: where do you go from here? I’m doing my farewell tour in America, and then I’m doing a farewell tour in China. That’ll be a spooky event because I’ve never even done a hello tour there. In fact, it’s the one country in the world who has never heard of me. That will be a pretty interesting experiment. Dame Edna Everage, it was truly an honor. Gary, it’s wonderful you called me. I was just lying here thinking, “What’s going to take me by surprise? What romance awaits me?” And you know, Gary, when I’m in your city, we might have a little candlelit supper. Who knows? Lots of love, darling.
DORIAN
celebrity
–––––
dorianmagazine.com
|
51
DORIAN
promotion
–––
oceanic retail therapy
–––
This year, escape the usual hustle and bustle and reward yourself with a memorable christmas shopping trip on the majestic Baltic Sea cruise ships Silja Serenade or Silja Symphony. You’ll find all your favorite luxury brands in the tax free ”shopping mall.” In the evening, relax in your stylish premium cabin before celebrating with fine dining and dancing with your loved one or your friends – You’ve earned it!
52
|
dorianmagazine.com
tallinksilja.se # ly x i g a r e s i l j a
DORIAN
promotion
dorianmagazine.com
|
53
DORIAN
54
|
culture
dorianmagazine.com
DORIAN
culture
The RISE & RISE of BELAMI
THE WORLD’S PREMIER GAY EROTICA EMPIRE IS RENOWNED FOR FEATURING ’THE WORLD’S MOST BEAUTIFUL MEN’. WE PACKED UP OUR GEAR AND HEADED TO PRAGUE TO TRY THEM ON FOR SIZE IN A REVEALING HIGH FASHION SHOOT i m a g e s B E N J A M I N FA L K , J A K E RY D Q V I S T s t y l i n g J A K E RY D Q V I S T models JEAN-DANIEL, HOYT KOGAN and ANDREI KARENIN make up FILIP HÁJEK hair ALES DALLESANDRO location EMBLEM hotel emblemprague.com
dorianmagazine.com
|
55
andrei wears sneaker harness BEA SZENFELD gloves TOM FORD silk scarf [as sash] LANDEROS skull print jeans TIGER OF SWEDEN
hoyt wears cashmere and neoprene top LANDEROS underwear AUSSIEBUM bracelet JH NOCTURNAL private sneakers with vintage spats
––– IF MY FATHER FINDS OUT I’M A PORNSTAR HE WILL HAVE A HEART ATTACK –––
hoyt wears leather and silver fox fur neck piece JH NOCTURNAL wool, silk and leather skort LANDEROS
w o r d s b e n j a m i n fa l k DORIAN
sex
I N 1 9 9 3 , B E L A M I C H A N G E D T H E FA C E O F G AY P O R N
indefinitely with its first release ‘Tender Strangers’. Since then Bel Ami has been synonymous with flawless Slavic beauties insouciantly screwing their way into most gay men’s computers (and hearts). The founder and owner of Bel Ami, George Duroy, has stated that “the porn industry is to a certain extent the last bastion of truly independent filmmaking”. And boy, has he turned “independent filmmaking” into a truly commercial industry - he now runs one of the, if not the most profitable gay porn companies in the world. However, it could all have ended rather abruptly back in 2008. Notorious (to this day) for despising technology, George had significantly underestimated the advent of the Internet and the unfulfilled desire of the masses for amateur porn, so he stubbornly persisted in producing DVDs as Bel Ami’s main medium. Meanwhile, onlinecentric newcomers like Sean Cody, Corbin Fisher and Randy Blue brutally stole large slices of the sex pie. Today, George has stepped up his game. The websites Belamionline and Kinkyangels, introduced as part of the brand’s competitive online offer along with three film production studios, Bel Ami, Kinky Angels and Lukas Ridgeston, together produce a whopping 700 sex scenes per year. Each major movie release has a budget of 1.5 million USD. But it takes more than tubs of lube to grease this ever-growing sex machine. At any given time Bel Ami has 60 models at their disposal. The company (or the “trademark” as George calls it) has three swanky offices in Prague, Bratislava and Budapest (although the company still operates under US jurisdiction, as it has since its inception). Adapting to the new market is key for modern porn brands. The porn consumer is often a “brand whore”, meaning they jump from producer to producer. With Internet being flooded by cheap, often free, amateur, gay porn, many studios find they are fighting for survival. Others – like the iconic Colt brand – simply go under. Bel Ami, somehow, persists and grows like a Phoenix from the flames on Viagra. So - what’s the secret? George Duroy once explained that his business model is based on “producing porn that he’d like to consume himself”, and “treating the staff with respect, having long-term working relationships with the talent, rather than one–offs, and not taking business set–backs too seriously.” The models do seem to be part of the secret. No other porn company has continued to deliver iconic performers like Johan Paulik, Lukas Ridgeston and Jean-Daniel. Andrei Karenin and Hoyt Kogan are destined to become future golden geese, as George develops and changes their image to satisfy the needs of the market, a little like Eliza Doolittle in Pygmalion. We were told it can take up to a year to introduce a guy after being scouted (Bel Ami has four fulltime scouts) by a representative. It seems long-term relationships between the talent and their fans really is a major part of the formula. A representative explains how George transformed Hoyt from being a cute but not very noticeable young man, into strikingly good-looking. Models get a monthly salary (regardless if they make sex scenes or not) and get paid an extra for every scene, including “schooling” and “training sessions”, which are never published. This is certainly something to bear in mind along with the alternative family culture and professional financial and psychological security. In terms of customers, fifty percent of Bel Ami’s are Americans, while another twenty percent are in the rest of the English speaking world. More than half of these are “older” but, as a representative says, a new generation of fans are emerging. It’s no wonder – these wholesome guys 60
|
backstage images robo melo
dorianmagazine.com
have enviable DNA, immaculate grooming and are almost naturally “retouched”, epitomising the Hollywood beauty ideal. As a teenager in the late 80s, my porn consumption was limited to magazines like Torso and Mandate (hidden under my mattress, naturally), but as an adult, when I had more options, Bel Ami became a go-to choice, synonymous with quality porn. With time, this probably created a bit of a fetish for the model-like performers. “How beautiful, passionate and natural they all seem”, I remember thinking. “So unlike their greased–up American beefcake counterparts”. The shoot takes place in Prague’s centrally located design hotel, Emblem. The accommodating hotel staff outdo themselves, offering up an entire floor for us. The talented hair and make up team settle in the SPA area and a suite becomes the wardrobe area, complete with clothes racks and expensive couture strewn over a bed. When we booked the boys for the shoot, we had specified a mix of established and upcoming guys with real fashion model looks, so naturally, I was fidgety with anticipation prior to their arrival. During lunch, Jake and I had a beer “to calm potential nerves”. (Alas, the numerous bottles of locally produced sparkling wine that we’d brought to set were left untouched, as the boys aren’t allowed to drink). In the flesh, they surpass our expectations; gorgeous, muscly, fresh– faced and polite. I realize the day will become a defining professional moment. As we brief the whole team (including hair and makeup, a Bel Ami camera man who films the whole day, and an interpreter/chaperone to aid with translation), the guys are attentive like schoolboys, giggling and exchanging shy glances. The shoot consists of two scenarios; the first involves portraits of celebrity designer Marcus Larsson, with the boys as sexy props, before becoming the focus of attention and showing themselves off in high fashion. As we begin, they start to relax; they try things on, joke, take selfies and pose for each other. It becomes very clear that they are a professional “family” who enjoy each other’s company, rather than just being colleagues. A Bel Ami representative later tells me that some of the models come from challenging backgrounds. With the shoot underway, they transform in front of our eyes into seasoned pros. After checking the images, Jake and I exchange glances - we know we’ve struck artistic gold. For the second set-up, the young Andrei gets a 30s Cabaret-style make-over, the playful “star” Jean-Daniel a graphic hairpiece, and newbie Hoyt, with his trademark bee-stung lips, is given a sculptural rockabilly. It’s their first time modeling with high fashion styling and make-up, so they’re a little unsure of how to perform, but they quickly grow with the task and start enjoying themselves, and it’s not long before they blow our minds. I note with interest how Jean-Daniel, Hoyt and Andrei all possess star quality, but are able to turn it off at the flip of a switch, adding to my belief that they are “real” models. Surprisingly, however, they are a little shy when I ask them to “drop trou” for a few shots. During a break I chat to their chaperone (also a Bel Ami performer, whose duties include teaching fellatio to newbies). Like most of the performers, he’s straight. He actually likes giving and receiving oral, but doesn’t like anal “cause it hurts.” I realise these guys are like regular actors, treating it all like a job just like any other. After such an amazing shoot, it’s almost with sadness that we hug them all goodbye. If only for a few hours, it feels like Jake and I have been part of the Bel Ami family.
–––––
DORIAN
sex
MORE FASHION STORIES & BACKSTAGE VIDEO IN THE DIGITAL VERSION!
dorianmagazine.com
|
51
andrei wears ´ l a c e s c a r f V I N TA G E cummerbund DIOR u n d e r w e a r C A LV I N K L E I N raincoat STUTTERHEIM leather and silk cuban heels LANDEROS socks BJÖRN BORG
jean-daniel wears headpiece VINTĂ„NG leather jacket CROCKER swimwear LJUNG skull ring MCQUEEN
––– I HAVE TO EAT TWELVE TIMES A DAY TO KEEP THIS BODY ––– jean-daniel wears t r o m p e l’ o e i l p a p e r h e a d p i e c e M A L I N D A D A M G A A R D hand painted jumpsuit LANDEROS
How and why did you become a Bel Ami model? It was simple. I applied. Previously I shot some scenes with a smaller production company in Prague a n d I w a s n ’t v e r y h a p p y w i t h i t . How does having sex as a job affect your private sex life? Surprisingly enough, it improves it. It definitely improved my imagination and skills both as a top and a bottom. My partners are usually pleasantly surprised. What turns you on the most when filming? I t ’s n o t v e r y d i f f i c u l t t o t u r n m e o n because I am a very sexual person. It can be anything. The right touch, the right way of flirting, even just a look. I need very little to get aroused, the key is to feel that my partner is turned on and enjoys it. How do you feel about and I hope I will become a major doing bareback pornstar in a future. My ex-partner knew about my scenes? Ve r y f e w p e o p l e w o r k a n d h a d n o p r o b l e m w i t h i t . in Czech Repu- My mother and sister know and blic use con- think that it is my personal choidoms in private ce. When my father finds out he lives anyhow will have a heart attack and they would have sex without ever seei n g a p a r t n e r ’s test results. On the set everyone is tested regularly so I think it is safer having sex on the set than in private. Does your family and friends know that you What is the best and worst reacare one of the tion you’ve ever been subjected w o r l d ’s b i g g e s t t o f r o m a f a n ? gay porn stars? I have done a lot of public apAnd if you have pearances mainly connected to a partner how fashion shoots with Addicted and does she/he the reactions were always overfeel about your whelmingly positive. I certainly enjoy the attention, but too much career? ( l a u g h i n g ) attention could be tiring too. So Where do you far so good. get that from? What is the best and worst thing My Bel Ami about being a porn star? scenes are not Being a pornstar is to a grade deout yet even gree liberating. As you are consiFA C T S & FAV O U R I T E S t h o u g h I s h o t d e r e d a m a v e r i c k a n d d o n ’t h a v e Name: Hoyt Kogan more than to pretend anything. As it is with Age: 20 twenty and my Bel Ami it brings a lot of beautiSexuality: polyamorous/flexisexual scenes for Wil- ful partners and travelling around Partner: Single right now liam Higgins the world. Favorite designer: Gucci are entirely The worst is that some people Favorite perfume: Joe Malone forgettable. So mistake a pornstar for prostitute H o b b i e s : S o c c e r, c o l l e c t i n g m i r r o r s your question and think that you should be avWhat I like the most: Good, tender and wild sex is flattering ailable for anything and I really What I dislike: Sex with an unresponsive partner despise that. At Bel Ami escorting Best thing about me: I’m sincere is not allowed. Wo r s t t h i n g a b o u t m e : I ’ m s i n c e r e i n t h e w r o n g s i t u a t i o n s Where do you see yourself proHow to make me happy: Buy me a helicopter (there are much cheaper fessionally and personally in five ways too) years from now? L i f e m o t t o : D o n ’t t a k e l i f e t o o s e r i o u s l y - i t i s o n l y a t e m p o r a r y We l l , I a m n o t a f o r t u n e t e l l e r t o situation see myself anywhere five years f r o m n o w, b u t I w o u l d a l s o l i k e to succeed as a fashion model. Is hoyt wears it compatible with porn? I’m not decontsructed ruched tulle top LANDEROS sure. A lot of it would depend on bomber jacket TIGER OF SWEDEN p e o p l e ’s p r e j u d i c e s b u t i n 5 y e a r s swimwear AUSSIEBUM a lot of things can change even in the mainstream business.
––– On the set everyone is tested regularly so I think it is safer having sex on the set than in private –––
BEL AMI TRIVIA
The Bel Ami name comes from a Guy de Maupassant novel, in which George Duroy is one of the main characters. It has been filmed on several occasions, including a 2012 version featuring Robert Pattinson and Uma Thurman. Bel Ami prefers the term Condom free, to barebacking. Bel Ami prefers the term all-male porn, to gay porn (considering that most of their models are straight, or try-sexual). George Duroy was an aspiring Hollywood filmmaker before he started Bel Ami. Bel Ami models sign a strict contract that bans drugs, alcohol during shoots and escorting.
andrei wears s wa r o v s k i e m b e l l i s h e d s t u d e d l e at h e r m as k J H N O C T U R N A L
DORIAN
people
andrei wears zebra print army hat MALINDA DAMGAARD bracelets JH NOCTURNAL collar ETON b r o o c h V I N TA G E silk scarf [as sash] LANDEROS skull print jeans TIGER OF SWEDEN
jean-daniel wears pleated leather and fur collar JH NOCTURNAL w o o l b o u c l ĂŠ h i g h wa i s t e d pa l a z z o t r o u s e r s L A N D E R O S private indian wedding gold slippers
DORIAN
celebrity
words camilla long / the sunday times / the interview people
L A ST
T h e I N T E RV I EW
T h e
FIRST LADY of COMEDY TRAILBLAZING COMEDY LEGEND JOAN RIVERS MANAGED TO INSULT PRETTY MUCH EVERY CELEBRITY DURING HER IMPRESSIVE CAREER. TRUE TO FORM, SHE MANAGES TO DO THE SAME IN THIS LAST INTERVIEW 70 |
dorianmagazine.com
D AY S B E F O R E S H E W E N T I N T O
the comedian Joan Rivers was still firing off verbal rockets. H O S P I TA L ,
The face! Oh my God. The face. Joan Rivers once joked she’d had 739 surgical procedures, including a face-lift, a nose job, a neck-lift, a tummy tuck, Botox and fillers, but looking at her — a currant bun snatched from the jaws of a severe warehouse fire — the only thing I can think is: so few? She sits on a sofa like a weaponised Mrs Tiggy-Winkle: helmet hair, day diamonds, huddled up in a swooping red diva coat that says “I did Vegas and survived.” Her face, which last underwent a neck-lift about 4½ years ago (“I also think we did something to the jaw,” she says vaguely), resembles a boxing glove that someone has waggled with their fingers and left every single feature in slightly the wrong place. She somehow manages to look pointy and pillowy. I spend most of the interview trying not to stare. Not that Rivers is bothered by anyone staring. She takes an almost fetishistic delight in telling war stories about her face, particularly the auditions she holds for doctors. She questions the anaesthetist the closest: “Who are you and when did you last have a glass of wine?” she says.
is, she has practically no voice when we meet: just a tiny, scratchy, drawl.
DORIAN
celebrity
She is also surprisingly polite and reserved — bizarrely, no F-words — and followed at all times by two startlingly obsequious assistants who whisper things like “Can I speak to you for one moment, Madam?” and “May I?” One of them gives her a list of questions she expects interviewers to ask. The top one reads: What is your earliest memory? Someone has typed out the answer: “I distinctly remember coming out of my mother’s vagina and looking back over my shoulder and thinking, ‘Lesbians like this?’ ” At home in New York she has filing cabinets full of jokes, with labels such as “no self-worth” and “my sex life” and (her daughter) “Melissa’s dates”. There is also a housekeeper (Debbie) and a butler (Kevin), who keeps up a steady stream of finger bowls. She lives in a “ballroom”,
––––– I distinctly remember coming out
of my mother’s vagina and looking back over my shoulder and thinking, ‘Lesbians like this? ––––– J o a n R i v e r s I n ‘ W ’ M a g a z i n e i n i s t h e l a t e s t a r ’s l a s t o f f i c i a l p o r t r a i t , shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin.
Are they often drunk? “I ask everything,” she barks. But even as I write, she has somehow managed to dramatically slip into a coma in hospital after an operation on her vocal chords. The first thing I thought when I heard was: oh God, she’ll be absolutely furious. She’s got a book to promote and tons of tat to flog and a massive tour — ironically called Quick… Before They Close the Lid (Seriously, This One Could Be... IT!) — over here next month. As she herself honks, she “doesn’t allow herself to get ill”. But right now, it seems possible that this could be her last interview. Perhaps the biggest surprise about any of this is the fact that Rivers wasn’t having yet more plastic surgery. She says the only thing she really worries about is “losing my voice”: I can only assume she went in for a tune-up ahead of the tour. As it dorianmagazine.com
|
71
DORIAN
celebrity
according to Barry Humphries, filled with gold and crystal and six types of scented soap in each bathroom, as well as paintings that were picked out by the actor Vincent Price. She always says that the ballroom “is where Marie Antoinette would have lived, if she had money”. But looking at pictures of the epic plastic grotto, it’s more where Donald Trump might have lived, if he didn’t.
––––– I’ve had so
much plastic surgery, when I die they’ll donate my body to Tupperware –––––
Today she is staying at Melissa’s house in Los Angeles: a glittering hobbit hole built into the side of a hill, high above the ocean. Melissa is the only living reminder of what Joan Rivers might have looked like without surgery. She is dark and timid with small eyes, unlike her mother, who looks like something hard that’s crashed out of a cracker. The house is filled with surfboards and presentation china and anything a depressed tourist might buy (snow globes), as well as dog hairs, and two moth-eaten dogs, including a limping old alsatian that has recently had its leg sawn off. “Cancer!” rasps Rivers. She loves animals. This is because “they have no self-pity”. They just get up Rivers co-hosted the E! celebrity fashion show Fashion Police (20102014) and starred in reality series Joan & Melissa: Joan Knows Best (20112014) with daughter Melissa Rivers.
in the morning and don’t do anything she might do, which is look in the mirror and feel immense pain, as she has done every day since she realised she was “fat” and “ugly” at the age of seven. This has become her life’s narrative: why she failed as an actress, why she failed on her TV show, why she lost her husband to suicide and why she has furiously clawed her career back, and why, for the past five years, she has suddenly and remarkably been back at the centre of things, screaming: “I’ve had so much plastic surgery, when I die they’ll donate my body to Tupperware.” Even at 81 she is so rude on Fashion Police, a show devoted to ritually horror-shaming people on the red carpet, that Kelly Osbourne, her co-presenter, gave her some rings engraved with her favourite words, which are “f***” and “piss” and “shit”. “I wear them a lot,” she says. “The big question with Rivers has always been: where does the energy come from? Never mind this interview: she always gives every interview as if it’s her last. She is hoarse from yelling at journalists down at Los Angeles’s LAX airport already this morning, where she came off a flight and someone asked her why she had said that the Palestinians were “stupid people who don’t even own a pencil” who “deserved to die” as a result of the bombing in Gaza. “For God’s sake, for God’s sake,” she whoops now, jewels rattling. “I probably said, ‘If you don’t listen and if you don’t get out when they warn you, then you’re going to die.’ You deserve to die,” she bellows, “if you’re that stupid.” She says she is “apolitical”, but I would go further than that — she simply doesn’t have a clue. tember 2014 She later corrects her statement on Gaza, saying she got “Hamas” and “Palestinian” mixed up, after someone started a petition asking people to boycott her performances in London during next month’s planned tour. Eventually she snaps: “But I don’t want to get into it. This article is not coming out for months and nobody will care. They will only care about Beyoncé and Jay-Z.” But at least the debacle has given her
72 |
dorianmagazine.com
I n 1 9 6 5 , J o h n n y C a r s o n ’s s h o w e s tablished Rivers’ comedic style. In 1986, with her own rival program, The Late Show with Joan Rivers, she became the first woman to host a late n i g h t n e t w o r k t e l e v i s i o n t a l k s h o w.
an opportunity to bring up her favourite topic of conversation — the royal family. Rivers feels sorry for “Prince Charles and the Queen”, who get misquoted “the whole time” (actually, they don’t get quoted at all). “Prince Charles is so funny. So, so funny!” she breezes. He sends her presents every Christmas, mostly tea cups, and she writes him elaborate thank-you notes that he never acknowledges. Rivers is exactly the sort of person Prince Charles might like — in her own words, vulgar and tasteless — so he invited her to his wedding, where the Queen “did a very witty speech about how happy she was about his marriage to Camilla,” she says. “She was not funny; she was witty with dignity.” She loves the “formality” of bowing and scraping. “It’s lovely,” she trills. “It’s back to my mother.” Joan’s mother was a Jewish princess, brought up in great riches as the daughter of a beef baron in Odessa, Ukraine. Her father supplied the tsar with beef and bricks, but when the tsar was murdered the family fled, sewing jewels into the inside of their fur coats. They arrived in New York, where her mother had nothing left of her old life except a scar on her forehead where a peacock had once pecked her at a banquet. She spent the rest of her life self-medicating with fish knives and napkins, passing on this obsession to her daughter, whose dinner parties are infamously stiff. Joan requires guests to speak to the person on the right “and include the person on the left,”
she says. “I don’t want it to be gobble, gobble, gobble. When Melissa was growing up I always used to say, when the Queen comes to dinner” — I think this is something Rivers genuinely fantasises about — “I don’t want to be ashamed. She was 7½ and she said, ‘But you don’t know the Queen.’ ” She sweeps on: everyone nowadays is SUCH A PIG. “Men don’t stand up when you come into the room. I go onto a plane and no one helps me to put my bags overhead. I’m an old woman! Plus a CELEBRIDDAAAY!” There are “no rules, no consequences. I think it’s a pity girls live with men in the hope that one day they’ll marry them.”
Anyone who lives with a man before she is married is an unpaid prostitute, she nods, and “a fool”. Rivers herself did not leave home until she was 31. She grew up in Brooklyn, where her father was a doctor and her mother spent money. Her father was so obsessed with cash he would sit on the beach on holiday, freaking out and muttering “this is costing me a fortune”. He was furious when she decided to go into theatre, partly because she had a good degree from Barnard, and partly because prostitutes in the dock would always give their profession as “show business” when he used to visit court as a young doctor.
DORIAN
celebrity
ted her first alter ego, J Sondra Meredith, at the age of eight. She appeared in her first film at 18. She hired an agent called Hamilton Katz. He had a picture of his most successful act, Myra and Her Trained Cockatoos, on his wall with the note “Thank you for taking me to the top”. But he did not take Rivers to the top. She failed, in fact, to get any parts at all, losing even small roles like “prostitute” and “man in black”. She did play a “woman in black” — a lesbian who was in love with a girl played by Barbra Streisand: they kissed, “and then we kissed again,” she says.
But Joan wanted to be famous. She crea-
J o a n R i v e r s ’s o p u l e n t N e w Yo r k a p a r t m e n t , w o r t h $ 3 5 m i l l i o n , h a s f l o o r ceiling windows and gold-plated walls.
But she has never had any real crushes on women; she has always been obsessed with men. She has been in love with a Greek shipping tycoon and a man called Bernard who was worth $150m but so mean he “carried ketchup back and forth to the Hamptons”. She once nearly married a fully gay man who painted corpses for a living (now dead himself). Her most enduring crush is Winston Churchill — “I should have slept with him. I love him. He was chubby, but perfect” — so I suppose it is no surprise that she eventually went for an Englishman in the shape of Edgar Rosenberg. Or at least, Edgar was born in Germany and grew up in South Africa, but as Rivers mentions repeatedly, he went to Rugby and Cambridge and had “a proper accent”. By the time he met Joan, Edgar was a successful film producer in New York, with friends like Laurence Olivier and Joan Collins’s then-husband, Anthony Newley. Rivers never fails to describe Collins as a “tramp”. Even now, she bellows that Collins should be grateful that “people still think of her as sexual”. But according to her autobiography, it was slagging off Elizabeth Taylor that really put Rivers on the map.
Image Prudential Douglas Elliman real estate
In the early 1980s, Rivers was headlining in Vegas and doing regular appearances on Tonight with Johnny Carson. But then one day she said that Taylor had become “a blimp” and suddenly she was a megastar. Rupert Murdoch lured her to Fox, where dorianmagazine.com
|
73
She became the first female comedian to have her own late-night show. The show was produced by Edgar…Seven months into the run, Rivers was given an ultimatum: sack him or leave. She chose her husband; Fox cancelled the show; Edgar killed himself at the Four Seasons in Philadelphia three months later
DORIAN
promotion
she became the first female comedian to have her own late-night show. The show was produced by Edgar, only Edgar failed to charm anyone. Seven months into the run, Rivers was given an ultimatum: sack him or leave. She chose her husband; Fox cancelled the show; Edgar killed himself at the Four Seasons in Philadelphia three months later.
but she waves a hand: “I cry very easily. I cry at songs,” she wails. “I cry at Broadway shows. The dog fell halfway down the stairs last night, and I cried.” The only person she doesn’t cry about is Edgar. She doesn’t cry at plastic surgery either, even though she tells me about her
At the time, she blamed herself for his death. But was she really that heartbroken? He sounds awful — prissy and “closed off”, a man who lived with his mother until he was 40 — and I suspect one of the only reasons she is kind about him now is Melissa. I don’t think Joan can have cared. Not only had she already split from him, but the night he died she was in hospital having liposuction: what you did in Hollywood “when you’ve been fired”. And then the first thing she did after that was get up on stage and start telling jokes about him: “Thank God my husband said that I should scatter his ashes in [luxury department store] Neiman Marcus. That way he knew he would see me five times a week.” She also had several affairs, including one with the actor Robert Mitchum (“very fast”). And she describes a one-legged banker from the Lehman family she dated for nine years in her sixties as “the love of my life”. She even suggested they marry, and he said “fine,” she says, “and then both of our lawyers said no”. But she was devastated when she found out he was cheating on her. “I was so hurt. So hurt and betrayed.” She didn’t speak to him from that moment until he was dying, then she went to see him and he didn’t recognise her. “That was sad,” she says. He was “amazing, but don’t put that down because it might hurt Melissa”. She looks as if she might cry — for the sixth time this interview. Nobody told me how much Joan Rivers cries. But she cries all the time. It is slightly frightening — 74
|
dorianmagazine.com
The critically-acclaimed documentary ’Joan Rivers: A Piece of Workand was the subject of the documentary Joan Rivers: A Piece of Work (2010). procedures and I shriek: “But don’t facelifts hurt?” I look into her eyes and all I see is deep pain. “Oh, no, they don’t hurt at all,” she says. “Maybe when they take the stitches out. But if they hurt, no, no, no.” She waggles a finger. “I’m a coward.” And while she says she will never have sex again (“the hotel is clo-o-osed”), she may easily have yet another neck-lift “if it
looks terrible”. She despises women who are not honest about surgery. “They say ‘I’ve never had anything done,’ and then they go to the bathroom and shit through their ears.” But doesn’t she ever think she’s had a bit too much? She looks like the world’s oldest nine-year-old. “No,” she says, immediately. She has “no regrets”, but if you ever need any idea how addicted to plastic surgery Rivers really is, when I ask what she’d never have done, she thinks for a minute and then she says she would never have her legs broken to make them straight again, like the silent-film actress Ruth Gordon. “God,” she drawls, “that’s determination.” Christ. One of the most puzzling things about Rivers is her own determination. When most ladies of her age are visiting Venice or painting terrible watercolours, Joan’s greatest pleasure is shrieking out filthy new jokes in dirty clubs in downtown Manhattan. She will do anything for money. “I will wear a diaper,” she says. This is presumably why she happily signed up to appear in Southend-on-Sea on tour next month. I have seen her perform once — she was 76 and playing to about 900 gays in event leatherwear and feather boas, who spontaneously prolapsed with excitement the moment she came out. When I ask her if she has some weird kind of hormone imbalance that means even at this age she is simply unable to stop, she says: “I hope so.” The person who suffers the most appears to be Melissa, who buys into her mother’s career as apparently the only way of spending time with her. She is a constant sour-
She despises women who are not honest about surgery.“They say ‘I’ve never had anything done,’ and then they go to the bathroom and shit through their ears”
eighties. Nobody, when I die, is going to say, “how young?” They’re going to say,” she gives an enormous cackle, “she had A GREAT RIDE.”
ce of hilarious material as a result. Rivers threw a fit when her daughter turned down Playboy, for example. “What am I thinking?” she screams, as part of her act. “The nerve of that bitch! $500,000 and she turns it down? Pull down your pants and show them your pussy.” Melissa is 46 and has a son, Cooper, who is 13. She says she is preparing Melissa for her death. This will be a “BIG blow”. “Melissa says, ‘I don’t want to hear about it, I don’t want to talk about it’, but I say,” she adopts a sing-song voice, “it’s comii-i-ing! It’s inevitable. It’s no longer an abstract thing. It’s like, God, I’m in my
Suddenly she looks sad again. So many of her friends have died, she sighs: the death of her best friend tore her to shreds. Part of her loves the melodrama, of course: when I tell her one of my friends died too, she looks thrilled and screams: “It’s beginning. It’s beginning.” She always says she imagines death will be like going under for an operation: “a black velvet sleep”. She has given Melissa strict instructions on who should not be let in to her funeral. The forbidden presumably include Michelle Obama (“a tranny”), Adele (“fat”) and the American talk-show host Chelsea Handler (“drunk” and a “whore”). Rivers loves slagging off other female comedians, such as Kathy Griffin and Sarah Silverman (“I f***ing want to strangle them.”) The only person she actually seems to like is Kelly Osbourne, although Osbourne recently made an error when she told Rivers she had worked out that
DORIAN
celebrity
morning and was 6lb down. “I wanted to kill her right there and then,” says Rivers. Rivers constantly feels “chubby”. She still wants to change “everything”. She put on 5lb when she stopped having sex. But is she happy? “I once said to my sister, ‘When were you happiest?’ And she gave me a date,” she gasps. But she is, yes, “happy in the now”. She is happy as long as she’s got money coming in: there is a scene in a film about her where she negotiates $125,000 for appearances during a three-day cruise, “and if they bump it up I’ll do the survival lecture,” she honks. “And if they bump it up more, I’ll do the red-carpet lecture.” I would go so far as to suggest that like her father she is only happy when money is coming in. She sets a lot of store by being able to show off. She likes swanning around New York in limousines, paying for everyone’s schooling (she supports the children of some of her staff). One of the reasons she went into show business in the first place was to be like her Aunt Alice, who had “face-lifts” and “trips on ocean liners”. It is not enough for her simply to be a diva, she must be seen to live like one too, screeching, vain, fabulous, spraying cash. For a moment, she stands quietly, thinking about this, shining and plump, glittering like the world’s gayest toilet-roll cover. And then she whispers: “I’m so, so lucky. I’m relevant and I’m funny. And I look OK.” And then one of the assistants comes and wheels her away.
–––––
image david shankbone
dorianmagazine.com
|
75
DORIAN
film
LOVE IN SIGHT
One charming coming-of-age story has ’cleaned up’ on the International film festival circuit and is now Brazil’s Best Foreign Language Film Oscar entry
T H E W A Y H E L O O K S I S T H E D E B U T F E A T U R E L E N G T H F I L M from award-winning, Brazilian film-maker, Daniel Ribeiro, who won the Iris Prize for the short film I Don’t Want to Go Back Alone, which The Way He Looks was based upon. The film, which already has travelled the world on the festival circuit, tells the story of a blind Brazilian teenager, Leonardo (Ghilherme Lobo), and his budding feelings for new classmate Gabriel (Fabio Audi). While The Way He Looks focuses on the sexual awakening of Leonardo, both gay or straight, blind or not, can relate to this universal love story. Both blindness and homosexuality are still taboos and objects of prejudice in society – perhaps even moreso in Brazil – but this adolescent road to discovery is rather more rose coloured and beautifully interrupted. so I made some changes on the feature’s script so it would have some surprises for Born in São Paulo, Brazil, in 1982, director whoever had watched the short before. Daniel Ribeiro’s films have been screened You describe this teenage phase, where friendships, love, sexual identity are crucial. on over 180 festivals worldwide and recei- Is there a part of autobiography in this story? ved 115 awards, including the Crystal Bear – I think the autobiographical part of the film would be that I have also fell in love for at the 58th Berlinale – Berlin International the first time once. And I think that’s a feeling everyone can relate to. It’s a universal Film Festival. story and, gay or straight, blind or not, everyone will be able to understand what Leonardo goes through. The story of this film comes from your pre- Why did you choose a blind boy as main character? vious short film I Don’t Want to Go Back – Sexuality and its discoveries are usually associated with looks and visual attracAlone (Eu Não Quero Voltar Sozinho). Why tion. When I thought about exploring the blossoming of a teenager’s homosexuality, did you choose to develop this story for your I thought that it would be interesting to portray it from the perspective of someone first long feature? Did you write the script? who had never seen a man or a woman. By taking the visual aspect out of the equa– Actually, the idea for the feature came first. tion I wanted to question where does our sexuality come from. Is it from all the I wanted my first feature to be about this external stimulations or is it from inside ourselves? blind character falling in love for the first Where did you find the actors? Are they professional actors? Do they know each other? time. But I thought it would be important to – The teenagers from the film were selected through tests. The main trio was selecexperiment first on a short film, so the short ted four years ago, when we made the short film I Don’t Want To Go Back Alone. “I don’t want to go back alone” was born as Even though they were young, they had experiences in arts before. Ghilherme Lobo a pilot for the feature. After the short was worked in several musicals and is a ballet dancer. Tess Amorim, besides acting, works released, it was screened all over the world, as a voice actor. Fabio Audi looks young, but he was already in college, majoring in Film Studies when we did the short in 2010. We decided to maintain them for the feature, since they had such a great chemistry, and added new characters to the story. For their schoolmates, it varies, but they all had some experiences with acting before the film and are perusing acting careers. As for the Leonardo’s family, we chose acclaimed Brazilian actors, with a long experience in theatre, television and movies. How long was the shooting? Do you develop a special method working on? With the crew? With your actors? – We shot the film for 4 weeks and, before that, we had a month of rehearsals with the actors. During this period, I took the script and made them feel comfortable with the scenes, changing dialogs or scenes that didn’t seem to work and adding new scenes that came up during that period. Is it difficult in Brazil to finance a first feature? – Brazil is going through a period of intense investment in audio-visual. There are several funds that we can apply to and it’s been a great moment for making films in the country. Especially for new talents, it’s been feasible to obtain these funds which normally aren’t so easy for first time directors. T h e w a y h e l o o k s . c o m 76
|
dorianmagazine.com
rose printed metallic suit LONG TRAN shoes LONG TRAN
Tinseltown photographer TONY VELOZ s t y l i n g W A LT E R R E E D grooming LOGAN GREENWOOD m o d e l C H R I S T O P H E R FAW C E T T @ click models nyc
metallic shirt and trousers LONG TRAN apron skirt LONG TRAN s h o e s PAT R I C I A F I E L D S
coat LONG TRAN eyewear MERCURA NYC pants SAINT LAURENT
fringe jacket LONG TRAN metallic trousers LONG TRAN
coat LONG TRAN pants SAINT LAURENT
fringe jacket metallic trousers and shoes LONG TRAN
fringe jacket LONG TRAN body suit LONG TRAN shorts LONG TRAN b o o t s D R . M A RT E N S
leather motorcycle vest Diesel shirt LONG TRAN trousers ALL SAINTS S P I TA L F I E L D S shoes LONG TRAN eyewear MERCURA NYC
metalic suit LONG TRAN
fringe jacketbody suit and shorts LONG TRAN
leather jacket DSQUARED2 t r o u s e r s T R A S H A N D VA U D E V I L L E eyewear MERCURA NYC
the
d e n i m j e a n s a n d h at A M E R I C A N V I N TA G E s h o e s B U R B E R RY
photography DARREN TIESTE styling BRENDAN ROBERSTON m o d e l S Y LV E S T E R R U C K @ d t m o d e l s l a grooming BRENDAN ROBERSTON using kevin murphy and dermalogica
d e n i m j e a n s a n d h at A M E R I C A N V I N TA G E s h o e s B U R B E R RY
cowboy boots and football jersey A M E R I C A N V I N TA G E briefs RUFSKIN
s w i m w e a r A M E R I C A N V I N TA G E
s w i m w e a r a n d v i s o r A M E R I C A N V I N TA G E
jean shorts PRADA v i n ta g e t- s h i r t a n d h at A M E R I C A N V I N TA G E s h o e s G - S TA r
underwear ARMANI
nylon shorts from RUFSKIN s u n g l a s s e s L O C A L S U P P LY
towelling robe JOHN ROCHA underwear TEAM M8
v i n ta g e v e s t A M E R I C A N V I N TA G E underwear RUFSKIN sunglasses GUCCI
swimwear RUFSKIN s u n g l a s s e s L O C A L S U P P LY
c o at a n d s u i t J O A N N A S TA RT E K shirt vintage shoes KAZAR
fairweather Y friend photography MARCIN ZIÓŁKO styling MAGDALENA KLAMAN makeup and hair MAGDALENA KLAMAN model WOJTEK CZAK @ as management
turtleneck and vest PJOTR coat YVES SAINT LAURENT vintage necklace MOKOBELLE
blouse, orange and navy vests MMC trousers LEVI’S wat c h N I X O N b e l t C A LV I N K L E I N shoes KAZAR
coat deer for MMC kimono private turtleneck YVES SAINT LAURENT trousers PJOTR n e c k l a c e VA N R Y C K E wat c h N I X O N shoes JIMMY CHOO
jacket ZARA man shirt MM6 trousers RIVER ISLAND shoes KAZAR w a t c h C A LV I N K L E I N necklace MOKOBELLE
coat MMC s h i r t J O A N N A S TA RT E K n e c k l a c e VA N R Y C K E
hat DIOR HOMME sweater RIVER ISLAND suit MMC wat c h T I M E X
trousers, turtleneck, vest PJOTR coat YVES SAINT LAURENT vintage necklace MOKOBELLE shoes KAZAR
shirt CLUB MONACO sweater POLO RALPH LAUREN jeans SANDRO shoes TED BAKER
CURB A
coat TED BAKER tshirt DIESEL jeans BOSS s h o e s S A LV A T O R E F E R R A G A M O
APPEAL shotography & shoot direction ALKAN EMIN s t y l i n g VA N E S S A S A N C H E Z hair and makeup PLUTINO GROUP using mac, embryolisse, davines & cargo cosmetics m o d e l s C L E M E N T, A I D A N n a d e a u F R A N K Y @ e l i t e m o d e l s NIGEL @ chantale nadeau JAMES @ talent tree TJ @ anita norris models
scarf JAMES LEVESQUE blazer and pants SANDRO tshirt KARL LAGERFELD s h o e s H A R RY R O S E N
h a t WA D E shirt H&M belt POLO RALPH LAUREN jeans AG b o o t s W O LV E R I N E
coat TIGER OF SWEDEN top DOLCE&GABBANA sweater RAG&BONE pants TOPMAN sneaker CONVERSE
hat H&M jacket SANDRO shirt TED BAKER p a n t s H O LT R E N F R E W s h o e s S A LV A T O R E F E R R A G A M O
coat SANDRO s h i r t VA L E N T I N O tie PRADA p a n t s H O LT R E N F R E W shoes BROWNS
blazer CANALI b o w t i e H A R RY R O S E N shirt KENZO pants DOLCE & GABBANA shoes PRADA
blazer and pants TOPMAN t s h i r t B U R B E R RY B R I T belt and shoes PRADA
hat H&M cardigan and jeans DIESEL tshirt BOSS shoes TED BAKER blazer CLUB MONACO pocket square DUCHAMP tshirt BOSS pants FIDELITY b e l t S A LV A T O R E F E R R A G A M O shoes TEDBAKER
tank ARMY OF ME j a c k e t V I N TA G E parka H&M jeans DIESEL necklace REMINESCENCE
photography ANTONIO GUZZARDO s t y l i n g VA L E R I A G A E TA N O h a i r V I N C E N Z O PA N I C O m a k e u p M A R I A N G E L A PA L AT I N I model GABRIELE @ zoe models photography assistant FRANCESCO ORMANDO thanks to OFFICINE FERRI, via appia nuova 232, r o m e , fa b r i z i o p e r r i n i
jersey ZARA s l i p C A LV I N K L E I N
trench H&M J e r s e y & Pa n t s N I C O L A B O N A S I A
tank ARMY OF ME j a c k e t V I N TA G E parka H&M jeans DIESEL necklace REMINESCENCE
tank ARMY OF ME j a c k e t V I N TA G E parka H&M jeans DIESEL necklace REMINESCENCE
trench H&M jersey & pants NICOLA BONASIA
shirt and jeans DIESEL LIMITED EDITION wat e r p r o o f X D Y E jacket GEOX shoes MOMA
jersey ZARA s l i p C A LV I N K L E I N
coat BERSHKA
coat BERSHKA s w e at e r V I N TA G E C trousers ARMY OF ME
coat NICOLA BONASIA pants ARMY OF ME shoes MOMA
knit shirt LARS ANDERSSON slacks MR. TURK
rough surface
s w e at e r P E R RY E L L I S j e a n s V I N TA G E
photography SCOTT JOONHYUK JUNG styling JAMES R. SANDERS hair KIRI YOSHIKI makeup KUMA for mac cosmetics p h o t o g r a p h y a s s i s t a n t ( s ) T O M O N O R I I WATA , K Y U N G R O C K I M model EMANUELE @ new york models special thanks to christophe sanchez-vahle
jeans private c a r d i g a n A M E R I C A N A P PA R E L shirt vintage jeans LEVIS knit shirt LARS ANDERSSON shoes ALDO
s w e a t e r A M E R I C A N A P PA R E L
jeans LEVIS s w e a t e r A M E R I C A N A P PA R E L
shoes TED BAKER LONDON jeans LEVI’S s w e a t e r A M E R I C A N A P PA R E L shirt THRIFTED
shoes private c a r d i g a n P E R RY E L L I S shirt THRIFTED slacks MR. TURK
Off–Season p h o t o g r a p h y B I L LY W I N T E R S s t y l i n g S U C H A N D R A B U L L O C K & S T E P H A N I E S T. C R O I X m a k e u p J O N AT H A N M E N D E Z h a i r S T E V E E L I A S model ANDERS @ stars
coat MSGM pants ANDREA POMPILIO shirt STYLIST’S OWN shoes JOHNSTON & MURPHY
shirt DSQUARED2 wool pants ANDREA POMPILIO
s w e a t e r G A E LT A R R A r i n g W . V. W I N T E R S
raincoat ADIDAS sweatshirt SAINT LAURENT jeans BALMAIN
jacket MONTCLAIR s w e at e r T H E O RY p a n t s PA U L S M I T H
raincoat ADIDAS s h i r t B U R B E R RY
sweater GRANTED s h i r t J U N YA WA N TA N A B E C O M M E D E S G A R C O N S leggings CHAMPION
b e a n i e C R E AT I V E G R O W T H shirt HUGGER
shirt BDG p a n t s O VA D I A A N D S O N S jacket SHIPLEY AND HALMOS
coat NEIL BARRETT shirt ALEXANDER MC QUEEN jeans THE KOOPLES
ta n k B U R B E R RY leggings CHAMPION
LU XU RY
FA S H I O N
D E S I G N
B E AU T Y
C E L E B R IT Y
C U LT U R E
TR AV E L
S E X
WORLD’S MOST FASHIONABLE GAY MAGAZINE ––––– spring issue
2015 T.R.E.N.D.S. EXPLOSION CRUISE TEL AVIV INTERIOR DESIGN
SUN, SEA & SEX – MEDITERRANEAN
COSMOPOLITAN
abyss table by duffy london
BUY DIGITAL ISSUES
NEW!
POCKETMAGS.COM
FOR ALL DEVICES
OR
iTUNES
MORE FASHION STORIES & BACKSTAGE VIDEO IN THE DIGITAL VERSION!
NOW!
1 ISSUE $6.99 4 ISSUES $21.99 (SAVE 21%)
vetenskap och natur i en fantastisk kombination. din hud älskar exuviance.
Ta hand om din vinTerhud med exuviance hydraFirm Exuviance Age Reverse HydraFirm är en fantastisk nattcreme som ger din hud intensivt med fukt samtidigt som ålderstecken minimeras.
Få en ögonkräm på köpeT (hydrating eye complex)
värde 399:Gäller vid köp av Age Reverse HydraFirm.
INA
L QU
AL UA Y G RAN
NCE O R
IG
IT
U
V IA
AUTHORIZED PROFESSIONAL
TE
ED BY EX
Exuviance hudvårdsprodukter säljs endast hos speciellt utbildade hudterapeuter och hudläkare. För upplysning om en salong/klinik nära Dig, välkommen att ringa 040-30 31 32. www.exuviance.se
vår julklapp Till dig
THE DERMATOLOGY FOUNDATION
Stockholms Auktionsverk Magasin 5
Annorlunda saker till personliga hem På Magasin 5 onlineauktion pågår budgivningen dygnet runt. Du kan se och bjuda på alla föremål via vår hemsida eller app. Vill du titta och känna på föremålen innan du lägger bud är du välkommen till oss i Frihamnen i Stockholm. Vi har ett ständigt flöde av nya föremål så det finns alltid flera bra skäl att komma hit. www.magasin5.auktionsverket.se
Stockholms Auktionsverk Magasin 5 Palermog 21 – 23 Stockholms Frihamn Tel 08-453 67 50 Måndag – lördag 13 – 17 Torsdag 13 – 19 Online dygnet runt