Jakarta Expat - issue 100 - 100th

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Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership 100 th Edition | 28th august - 10 th September 2013 | www.jakartaexpat.biz

· 28 August - 10 September 2013

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Dear Readers

100 th Edition • 28 August - 10 September 2013

Welcome to Jakarta Expat’s 100th issue!

Editor in Chief

Angela Richardson angela@jakartaexpat.biz

Management

Edo Frese edo@jakartaexpat.biz

Editorial Assistant

Gabriella Panjaitan gabriella@jakartaexpat.biz

Sales

Dian Mardianingsih ads@jakartaexpat.biz

Graphics

Adietyo Randualas didiet@jakartaexpat.biz

Finance & Admin

Pertiwi Gianto Putri tiwi@jakartaexpat.biz Lini Verawaty lini@jakartaexpat.biz

Contributors

Terry Collins Bill Dalton Tess Joyce Hush Petersen Eamonn Sadler Grace Susetyo Kenneth Yeung Ponti Young

Distribution

Dian Mardianingsih dian@jakartaexpat.biz

Editorial Enquiries

letters@jakartaexpat.biz

Circulation Enquiries info@jakartaexpat.biz

Subscription

info@jakartaexpat.biz

Accomplishing 100 fortnightly issues makes Jakarta Expat a little over four years old, which is quite the milestone in the cutthroat world of magazine publishing, especially considering today’s growing demand for online digital media - available on increasingly small, palm-sized devices. We would like to thank our readers, writers and advertisers for their continued support over the years. Without you we would not exist.

Our fortnightly publication has quite the history behind it. Born on July 29th, 2009, Jakarta Expat was founded and run by Graham James and Brian McGill. Graham James is well known for many things, including the Café Batavia in North Jakarta, the English Education Centre founded in 1972, the Melbourne Institute of Business and Technology, his large art collection and, not to mention, his renowned gala parties. Today, Graham focuses on several successful businesses in and around Bali. Brian McGill was the original Editor for Jakarta Expat, taking up the challenge at the age of 80. Sadly, Brian passed away in the middle of 2011, and is remembered by those who knew him as one of the nicest men you ever had the pleasure of meeting.

In 2010, Jakarta Expat temporarily ceased publication until management was switched into the hands of Bartele Santema, best known for his chain of successful bars, including Eastern Promise, the former Bugils, De’Hooi, and Cazbar, to name a few. With this change, Jakarta Expat took on the form that you recognize today; 85g glossy paper in full colour, packed with original content, and with an eye-catching photograph on the cover. Starting with 16 pages, we have grown to a steady 24, not wishing to add too many more pages to ensure its contents are fully exposed to the readers’ eyes, and this includes advertisements.

It has been an exciting couple of years since we breathed new life into Graham James and Brian McGill’s already established Jakarta Expat, and we have received all kinds of feedback from our readers.

Some refer to us as “their Bible”, while others have called us “boring”.

To the latter opinion, please turn to Kenneth Yeung’s regular column, Scams in the City, which should change your mind.

Whatever your stance is on our tabloid-sized, free, fortnightly magazine, we would like to thank you for picking us up each edition and for flicking through our pages. Our small in-house team, along with a growing team of talented freelance writers, works hard to get each issue to you on time, battling a deadline every ten days, and it makes us happy to see readers enjoying our hard work.

With your continued support, we can make it to 200!

Events

events@jakartaexpat.biz Jakarta Expat is published bi-weekly by PT. Koleksi Klasik.

Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the writers and the publisher does not accept any responsibility for any errors, ommisions, or complaints arising there from.

Thank you all, Angela Richardson

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Published by PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA Jl. Kemang Raya No. 29A, Kemang, Jakarta - Indonesia Tel: 021 7179 4550 / Fax: 021 7179 4546 Office hours: 09.00 - 17.00 Monday - Friday

100th issue another 100 years: timor's last indigenous religious community 6. featured jakarta's bucket list 8. past & present jakarta 100 years ago 10. Great explorers alfred wallace's great adventure in indonesia 11. a for a good cause save the forest, face the orangutans 12. meet the expat thibaud of jakarta100bars.com 13. faces of jakarta Hadi the padang restauranteur 14. book review indonesia face to face 15. A tribute carl gilchriest 16. Light Entertainment indecent exposure 17. Scams in the City Glittering sharia Pyramids 18. sports meet the one Events 19. classifieds 4. culture

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Culture

by g r a c e s u s e t y o

Another 100 Years:

Timor’s Last Indigenous Religious Community • At the Raja’s porch with the Permaisuri (right) and a relative. On the table is a welcome offering of areca nuts and betel leaves

Barefoot, long-haired people dressed in ikat sarongs and ornate beads tend their gardens.

The sunshine is strong, but the cool air balances it out. There is no electricity or any motorised vehicles in sight. They have wooden prayer altars, peculiar musical instruments, and eating utensils made of coconut shells.

Being here makes me wonder what year is it it might as well be 100 years ago.

B

oti is a thriving petty kingdom tucked in the isolated mountains of South Central Timor.

Best known as a village where indigenous customs are alive today on a different level from that of other parts of Indonesia, Boti seems untouched by modern technology, mainstream education, Indonesian language, and Abrahamic or Dharmic religions.

Men were socialising in the garden when we arrived.

Seeing my translator, Hesry, they cordially greeted him like a long lost brother, before extending their welcome to my cousin and me. Hesry introduced one of them as the Raja. He was working in the gardens alongside the other men, but underneath his modest friendliness there was an air of distinction about him.

Raja Namah Benu, who ruled since his father’s death in 2005, invited us to his place and offered areca nuts and betel leaves. I’ve heard about the Raja being a strict guardian of the Boti civilisation from external influences, so being welcomed by him was a humbling experience.

Life in Boti revolves around the religion Halaika, which worships Uis Pah (Mother Earth) and Uis Neno (Heavenly Father). Not much is known about the history of Halaika, or how old Boti’s current civilization is.

“As human beings, we live on the ground, so the earth raises us like a mother raises her children”, said the Raja. “We lift our prayers to Uis Pah on earth, and she intercedes on our behalf, lifting them to Uis Neno in heaven.”

Halaika comes with its own agricultural calendar, whose weeks are nine days long, but there are no known studies on it by outsiders. The calendar regulates three seasons—tilling, planting, and harvest—all marked with ceremonies in a sacred forest believed to be the final resting place of the human soul.

“We don’t believe human souls go to heaven. Rather, they stay here on earth”, said the Raja. “We see them at night in our dreams, giving us guidance, and that’s the only way we meet them.”

“If a newborn doesn’t stop crying, it’s because a deceased relative visits him or her”, added the Raja. “Then when the parents dream of that deceased relative, the baby is to be named after him or her, and then the baby will stop crying.

The spirit is now at peace, knowing that he or she will be remembered through the new life.”

In Boti, babies are born in the umek bubu, a round straw house for storing maize, with a perpetually lit fireplace in the centre. After spending four nights in the umek bubu, the newborn is ritually brought out into the daylight for the first time.

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• Lady from Boti • The Permaisuri and Raja

We may be pagans, but you won’t find a person from Boti in prison for theft, corruption, or terrorism.”

Four months later, beads are draped on the infant, signifying that he or she will need clothes from now on. When the baby is weaned, another ceremony takes place where the baby’s hair is cut and given to the mother for keepsakes. Hair is believed to be a sacred inheritance from the ancestors.

Further milestones may include the option of attending Indonesian school, learning the agricultural traditions, and marriage. There is no wedding ceremony, but there are dances associated with weddings.

When a man and a woman fall in love, the man sends a gift of rice and chickens to the woman’s parents, and the couple is formally recognised as husband and wife. In Boti, marriages are monogamous and for life.

Once a person marries, the hair may no longer be cut, but must be pulled back into a bun. If a married person gets a haircut, it usually means that he or she has converted to Christianity, and would result in alienation from the Boti community.

In a country where adherence to a state-recognised religion (Islam, Christianity, Hinduism, Buddhism) is a public matter, for most Indonesians marching to the beat of their own religious drum is hardly an option.

For the people of Boti, however, devotion to Halaika is a no-brainer, even if it means resisting Christianity, the dominant religion in Timor.

“We see Christians pray a lot, but when you visit the prisons in Timor, the inmates’ names are Matthew, Mark, Luke, or John, and they’re there because they’ve stolen something,” said the Raja. “We may be pagans, but you won’t find a person from Boti in prison for theft, corruption, or terrorism.”

Crime is nearly nonexistent in Boti because of the community’s traditional welfare system. If a man steals a chicken, the community would presume that the thief is in desperate need of a chicken, and the Raja would drive members of the community to

donate a chicken to this person out of pity. The thief would then feel remorseful of his or her crime, and in repentance no longer steal. Likewise, the community would not let anyone in Boti—whether a native or a visitor—be homeless.

“We may not worship ‘God’ as most Indonesians understand. But we see God in our fellow human beings, and honour him or her accordingly”, concluded the Raja.

On the way out, I told my cousin how special it was to witness Timor’s last indigenous religious community thriving in 2013. “It is special”, he said, “but their world stops there in Boti and that’s all they know.

Their life remains so simple and narrow, while the rest of the world moves on.”

Fortunately, not everyone thinks so.

In a world where indigenous peoples and their homelands are rapidly forced to disappear through “development” and assimilation with “mainstream” modern society, Boti remains unusually steadfast in its traditions. According to Nusatenggara Timur’s Lieutenant Governor Benny Litelnoni, there are currently no perceived external threats to Boti such as the exploitation of natural resources or commercial tourism.

“Boti is a socio-cultural strength for NTT. The people of Boti would not leave their traditional ways for modern development, so we support them in preserving their heritage with positive values, and that heritage makes for an invaluable asset”, said Litelnoni, who was until recently the Deputy Regent of South Central Timor.

Asked whether in another 100 years, life in Boti could remain as it is today, Litelnoni said, “Who knows?

That would depend on the people. We cannot predict what the future holds. But so far, the people of Boti haven’t given in to the pressures of globalisation and other influences that don’t conform to their values.”

Grace susetyo Grace is a freelance writer, former TV journalist, and aspiring documentarist with a passion for Indonesian history and culture. Now in her 6th year in Jakarta, Grace has lived in various countries and looks forward to exploring more places. Contact her at g.c.susetyo@gmail.com

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Featured by K e n n e t h Y e u n g

and people try to push their way in.

26. Watch an Indonesian film at the cinema. You don’t need to know the language to follow the plot. Observe audience reactions.

27. Visit a sleazy bar, meet someone new and expose yourself to venereal disease.

28. Buy generic antibiotics without a

prescription to cure yourself of venereal disease.

29. Observe enthusiastic, sober new

We all know about Monas, cheap electronics, Kota Tua’s museums, the Highland Gathering and cycling down Sudirman on a Sunday morning, so to celebrate Jakarta Expat’s centenary issue, here’s an occasionally lighthearted list of 100 alternative things to do in the Big Durian.

1. Avoid stepping into random gaps in the sidewalk. Falling suddenly into a sewer is one way to immerse yourself in Jakarta, but it’s not the recommended one.

arrivals gradually become disillusioned, alcoholic lechers.

photo taken with the Indonesian president, frame it and hang it in your office.

15. Support a reputable local charity.

30. Get yourself on local TV, preferably

without breaking the law. Wearing bright clothing and shouting “bule” should work.

you live near one or more noisy houses of worship.

2. Spend an evening transvestite-watching at Taman Lawang and Jalan Latuharhari.

17. Convert to another religion for the sake

33. Take up a sport, such as kickboxing at

3. Experience what it’s like to be a tinned sardine on a slow day by taking the TransJakarta busway during peak hour.

18. Promiscuous men: Pretend you are Don

34. Of the 100-plus international schools

4. Keep smiling, no matter how annoyed you feel. Never lose your cool.

19. Promiscuous women: Always carry

and practice your Indonesian, rather than pretending to be engrossed in a phone or tablet with a flat battery.

20. Learn to dance to dangdut music at

6. Tell the minimart cashiers that you

21. Spend five minutes speaking English

don’t need a plastic bag for your single item purchase and witness their reaction.

7. Go to Stadium once, and only once.

Unless you’re a drug addict.

the bars on Jalan Blora. Then strut your stuff at wedding parties.

to the youngsters outside Cafe Batavia in Kota Tua. And don’t say no to having your photo taken.

but don’t haggle too low unless you are completely insensitive to human misfortune.

11. Accept that a supermarket will employ numerous staff to stand around doing nothing, yet have only three checkouts operating.

12. Bribe a civil servant to obtain a free form.

13. Get an invigorating massage. Options

include a clean totok wajah (face, back and shoulder massage), suction cups and the

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44. Get a pair of shoes made locally. Then get them repaired every two months.

45. Pretend you’re a powerful politician

by driving in the busway lane with a police escort and flashing lights.

ill-informed comments on the websites of The Jakarta Post and The Jakarta Globe.

48. Observe a pickpocket get caught

and beaten half-to-death by an angry mob. Then witness public apathy toward politicians stealing millions of dollars.

49. Rid your house of cockroaches and

ants with an insecticide called Kemut, sold at Ace Hardware. Beats not-so-magic chalk and smelly sprays.

Kemang Fight Gym, to keep fit and work off any stress or anger.

in Jakarta, try to find one of the few that have genuine international accreditation.

35. Get some serenity at a cemetery or by

listening to classical musicians jamming at Taman Suropati in Menteng on Sundays.

36. Reduce your life expectancy to 60 by

chain-smoking kretek, and eating Indomie and gorengan (food deep-fried in palm oil).

50. Eat bat at a Manadonese restaurant in

37. Write the word ‘None’ or ‘Communist’

51. Learn to live with trivial

in any form that asks for your religion.

Always gets a laugh.

39. Definitely get a second opinion,

9. Don’t get ripped off by street vendors,

filthy coin scratched on your back.

32. Invest in earplugs or double glazing if

insists a caesarean birth is required.

ride home from Stadium via the backstreets at 6am in an orange bajaj.

10. Cure mystery ailments by getting a

touch. Self-publish and sell it to sympathetic drunks who should know better.

38. Get a second opinion when the doctor

8. If addicted to loud noise, take the scenic

challenges, try to get your mobile phone carrier to stop sending spam text messages.

47. Publicize your ignorance by posting

Stadium (pronounced ‘Gelora Bung Karno’).

5. Carry a dictionary, talk to cab drivers

43. For those who enjoy impossible

millions and then go to jail when your local business partner decides to take everything.

16. Watch a local football game at Senayan

condoms. You can invariably get lucky in Jakarta, until you sober up.

getting paid, albeit a pittance, to write feeble articles for a local publication.

47. Start a gold mining company, invest

31. Write a novel that no publisher will

Juan by having multiple girlfriends or wives.

42. Violate the terms of your visa by

Kampung Melayu.

Such as twin sisters, Rian and Rossy, who run a free school and medical clinic for impoverished kids. Contact them on 08128101860.

of getting married. Then sign a document declaring you weren’t forced into converting.

the bride a condom as you greet her with palms together.

46. Play chess under the bridge at

felicitous finale.

14. Pretend to be influential. Get your

41. Attend a wedding and discretely slip

between stints on the karaoke floorshow.

disappointments, such as the disappearance, without explanation, of your favourite items from the supermarket shelves.

52. Men: Get a cheap haircut from a barber on a bike under a tree.

preferably at a Singapore hospital, when the doctor claims your newborn baby needs expensive brain surgery.

53. Women: Get a cream bath hair-wash

40. Study the arcane cryptology of

54. Beware of doctors prescribing

Indonesian Internet Service Providers.

Discover that “up to 14.7Mbps” actually means “3.2Kbps, if you’re lucky”.

and facial at a beauty salon.

unnecessary antibiotics. Google the pills before buying them.

an ojek (motorbike taxi). Use a mantel (raincoat), a helmet and a prayer.

55. Drive adroitly through tight traffic and then become incapable of parking without an attendant shouting directions.

23. Rent a MetroMini bus for a pub crawl

56. Go to Jalan Surabaya and buy an old

24. Take a slum tour to see how the other

57. Separate your rubbish into glass,

22. Beat the wet weather traffic by taking

from Kemang to Jalan Palatehan to Jalan Hayam Wuruk. half live.

25. Stand your ground when exiting a lift

record, even though you have nothing to play it on. paper, metal and biodegradable – if possible – to make life easier for local rubbish collectors and scavengers.

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Featured by K e n n e t h Y e u n g

58. Treat yourself to an ‘Old Fashioned’ at Nip & Dram – a whisky lounge on the ground floor of the Landmark Centre II building, Jalan Sudirman.

59. Learn the hard way that eating street food does not make you a native. It can make you a walking disaster.

70. Avoid making generalisations based

80. Go to a 24-hour dimsum restaurant at 4am.

fabric to make your own clothes. Try it when hungover.

71. Get your visa renewed on time. If

81. Automatically reach for your wallet

93. Go for a run during evening rush hour

on racial stereotypes.

you’ve overstayed by several years, consider approaching people smugglers or crossing into East Timor and flying to Australia.

72. Script a hilarious local TV sitcom,

perhaps about a transvestite bajaj driver called Bencong Bajuri.

73. Think nothing of tipping a cab driver or barmaid Rp.50,000 for good service, but complain when the Indomaret cashier short-changes you by Rp.500.

74. If you have a garden, make a compost

heap, and grow your own fruit and vegetables.

75. Buy cotton underwear and shirts.

Avoid nylon. Sweat isn’t sexy or comfortable.

60. Celebrate your birthday in local style

by bringing a cake to the office. Then have colleagues take you out for dinner and drinks, and you pick up the tab.

61. Open a successful bar or restaurant.

76. Attend a human wayang show staged by the Wayang Orang Bharata theatre group at Senen on Saturday nights.

77. Hold on to your rubbish until you find a bin. Politely discourage people from littering.

whenever stopped by a policeman. To show him your ID, of course.

82. Pay a black magic dukun (shaman) to cast a spell on business or romantic rivals.

83. Quit smoking. Jakarta’s air has

94. Adopt a rescued cat or dog from

Jakarta Animal Aid and make it a member of your family for life. Befriend geckos or rats if lacking space for bigger animals.

enough pollution. If you’re a non-smoker, encourage a smoker to quit. They’ll eventually thank you, unless they die first.

95. Respect the Islamic fasting month by

84. Lie when asked about marital status,

96. Become a ghost-buster and banish

children and religion – if you’re a single, childless atheist.

85. Visit your local PLN office to question

avoiding eating, smoking and intoxication in public during daylight hours. evil spirits from buildings. Don’t disguise yourself as a ghost or you could get attacked.

the massive variations in your monthly electricity bill. Or save time by banging your head against a wall.

97. Master the art of patience. You can’t

86. Thank scavengers or rubbish

98. If you play a musical instrument

collectors for their hard work and ask how their day was.

87. Make yourself sick by eating an entire box of martabak laden with margarine, cheese and chocolate.

Close down when the landlord trebles the annual lease.

and live to tell the tale.

suddenly improve the flow of traffic by worrying about it, so why bother?

that doesn’t weigh a ton, try busking on a Kopaja or MetroMini bus. Then pay each passenger Rp.1,000 for listening.

99. If things get too much, book into a five-star hotel for a relaxing weekend.

100. Forget the annoyances of Jakarta.

Make an effort to understand its people and you’ll be richly rewarded.

62. Drink shots of cobra blood, infused

with alcohol, on Jalan Mangga Besar Raya.

Recommended only for men suffering erectile dysfunction and for women with bad skin.

63. Brighten up your house or apartment

with potted plants. Don’t grow marijuana unless you want to experience the inside of an Indonesian jail.

64. Discover that pedestrian crossings are safe to use only when manned by a couple of guards stopping the cars.

65. Unwind with a trip to Bogor’s

Botanical Gardens. Resume stress during the slow journey back to Jakarta.

66. Unwind further by climbing Gunung

Parang and enjoying the fresh air and views.

At 915 meters it’s a short but steep hike, located about an hour’s drive from the city.

67. Mainland Chinese: If you live in an apartment, refrain from spitting in the lifts and stop throwing your trash in the corridors and in front of the lifts.

78. Write angry letters to The Jakarta

Post that reduce all of Indonesia’s complex problems to religious polemics.

79. Get a photo of the anti-piracy banners next to the police station at the Glodok DVD market, where everything is pirated.

88. Pay your full-time household staff at least minimum wage, which this year is Rp.2.2 million.

89. Offer your maid free vocational

training, such as a secretarial or computer course, so she can get a better job.

90. Form a team for the pub quiz at

Eastern Promise in Kemang. Usually held on the last Tuesday of each month. Winners drink free.

91. Subscribe to cable TV, unless you

prefer a constant diet of celebrity gossip, ads, infantile sitcoms, ads, petty crime shows and more ads.

92. Visit Pasar Tanah Abang and buy 68. Rich Arabs: Buy a contract wife and have a dirty weekend in Puncak.

69. Australians: Accept that you won’t be

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offered beer at all weddings.

· 28 August - 10 September 2013

Kenneth Yeung Kenneth Yeung fell into an open sewer on his first day of work in Jakarta. He gratefully acknowledges permission to quote from the classic Indonesia Do-It-Yourself 1976-1977 guidebook by Frank Palmos and Pat Rice. Some aspects of Jakarta never change.

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Past & Present by B i l l D a l t o n

Jakarta 100 Years Ago Through the window of early photography, Scott Merrillees has brought the long lost world of Jakarta back to life in his book, BATAVIA in Nineteenth Century Photographs, which presents the most comprehensive photographic record ever published of the city from the late 1850s, when the earliest known photographs were taken through to the closing years of the 19th century.

P

ublished by Southeast Asia specialist, Archipelago Press, an imprint of Singapore-based Editions Didier Millet, the book’s 155 rare photographs - many never before published – were sourced from leading institutional and private collections in Europe and Australia and from the author’s personal collection, all carefully reproduced in original sepia tone.

The sophisticated photographs found in this volume are all the more surprising, considering that they were taken during the age of the wet collodion plate, a thin piece of glass coated with a wet and sticky chemical emulsion that was sensitive to light. The glass plates were a very early form of photographic “negative” and are now almost non-existent and impossible to find. They often broke because they were very thin and fragile or were wiped clean by the photographer so they could be re-used. The glass plate negatives were used to print photographs on very thin paper coated with a solution, including egg whites (i.e. “albumen”) and thus were known as “albumen prints.”

Reproduction quality and clarity are so detailed that you can make out pebbles, shadows and tire marks on the road, ripples and reflections on water, blades of grass along a pathway and the leaves of trees finely etched against the sky.

In an 1880 photo of the Museum of the Batavian Society of the Arts and Sciences, the present-day National Museum, the open windows without bars reveal priceless collections visible inside.

Of particular note are the captivating albumen prints from the Woodbury & Page collection, which includes images of Batavia’s landscape and colonial buildings. Working in partnership, Walter Woodbury and James Page established a photographic firm in 1857 that continued to produce and sell images long after Woodbury›s return to England in 1863, and Page’s untimely death in 1865.

Extensively researched, the meticulous annotations are remarkable because in this early period, photographs were very seldom dated. Determining a date to a scene required voluminous and maddeningly difficult research. The author excerpts eyewitness accounts from travelogues, photo albums, logbooks, ship passengers, financial reports, contemporary

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Tanah Abang Dog (129)

Hotel des Indes Main Building (photo 51)

magazines, newspapers, lexicons and biographies in English, Dutch, French and Indonesian.

Notwithstanding the exponential and unchecked expansion of today’s megacity, an unexpectedly high number of Batavia’s 19th century landmarks survive to the present day, although the structures have often been completely rebuilt, roofs reshaped and ornamentation eliminated over the last 150 years: the Chicken Market Bridge over Kali Besar in Kota; the Portuguese Church on Jl. Pangeran Jayakarta, Jakarta’s oldest building still used for its original purpose and the Yin De Yuan temple on Jl. Kemenangan, one of the oldest surviving Chinese temples in Jakarta. It would be fascinating to see these old buildings in “before and after” format placed adjacent to the same scene today.

Hotel des Indes Main Building (51)

In one photograph of Koningsplein (today’s Medan Merdeka), the reader can almost feel a refreshing breeze blowing unimpeded across the huge open empty grassy plain, an area so gigantic that it took 1.5 hours to walk around. In those days, visitors even complained that the city was spread over so large an area that it was “uncozy,” lacked “cohesion” and that one needed to take horse carriages everywhere because of the great distances that had to be covered!

In the chapter entitled Molenvliet (Mill Way), now Jl. Gajah Mada and Jl. Hayam Wuruk, is a wonderful series of portraits of Batavia’s premier 19th century hotels - such as the grand Hotel des Indes – accompanied by details so intimate and kinetic that the reader, looking voyeuristically back in time, can hear the tinkling of china in the ­­ · 28 August - 10 September 2013

Photos 17a & 17b join to make an impressive panorama of Kali Besar

imposing colonial edifices with stately white columns and government buildings such as the Stadhuis (Town Hall), now the Jakarta History Museum. With just two exceptions (those of the renowned painter Raden Saleh and his wife), people are not the explicit subjects of the photographs.

The overwhelming emphasis in the book is on the topographic and architectural landscape of the city.

Tanjung Priok Close Up (135)

Koningsplein General (81)

bustling dining rooms, the clip clop of horses out in the broad forecourts, the splash of the water fountains in the spacious gardens as orchestra music is carried on the evening breeze. These internationally known hotels were the choice of visiting dignitaries and the center of splendid functions for the elite of Batavia’s colonial society.

The native population of the time must have been awestruck at the goings-on of the wealthy merchant class and at the

Unfortunately, many handsome buildings, such as the Harmonie Society club house, completed in 1815 – famous as a venue for grand balls and state functions - were demolished to widen streets or make way for office or shopping complexes. One wonders how much more attractive the city would be today, and what an asset their presence would mean for the tourist industry, had these graceful old edifices been spared.

The photographs are given a deeper dimension in the text with impressions and commentaries from visitors, officials and travellers. We learn of many intriguing insights over the span of decades into how hotels, restaurants, social clubs, haberdasheries, bakeries, watchmakers, jewellers, lavishly appointed shops and department stories came into being, rose to prosperity and ultimately suffered misfortune, their European owners and native staffs disappearing namelessly into the mists of time. The rise and fall of an establishment’s fortunes is often accompanied by a rich chronicle of the lascivious scandals and gossip of the day.

Detailed biographies of successful Dutch entrepreneurs as well as the genealogies of their forbears who settled, lived and died in the East Indies through generations are also provided.

Scott Merrillees’ unquenchable curiosity and dedication has resulted in a collection of achingly nostalgic photographs of excellent quality that succeeds admirably – both in image and words – in transporting the reader back to a Jakarta of an earlier age that is now little understood and has largely vanished.

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Bill dalton Bill Dalton has been writing travel features, book reviews, interviews and guidebooks about Indonesia for more than 40 years, starting with his groundbreaking Indonesia Handbook first published in 1976. Bill lives on a farm with his Indonesian family deep in the countryside of West Bali.

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Great Explorers by t e s s j o y c e

A lf r e d Wa llace ’ s • Great Adventure in Indonesia •

A

side Aside from Tintin, of course, Wallace is my favourite explorer and for eight years between 1854 to 1862, he conducted research and collected specimens in the Malay Archipelago – the area now known as Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia. By coincidence, my favourite comedian Bill Bailey recently presented the fascinating documentary Bill Bailey’s Jungle Hero in two parts, about Wallace’s theories which were developed in Indonesia; Bailey makes some extraordinary and wellsupported claims which are shaking up the establishment.

I was surprised to see Bill Bailey speaking Indonesian – calling himself orang lucu (funny guy) to the Sultan of Ternate as he presented a gift-box of French biscuits on this volcanic island where Wallace stayed.

However, Bailey has a long relationship with Indonesia which he has explored for 15 years – he even married his wife on the island of Banda. As Bailey followed Wallace’s routes through Borneo, Sulawesi and the Spice Islands, he pulled out his copy of Wallace’s book The Malay Archipelago and explained some of the theories – including the Wallace line – a boundary between two very zoologically different regions in the Archipelago. However, as Bailey reached the Spice Islands, the documentary’s revelations began to intensify.

We all know that Charles Darwin developed the theory of evolution through natural selection, but what do we know of Wallace - the co-originator of this theory?

In fact Wallace was the first to compile together the theory in written form, which he innocently sent in a letter to Charles Darwin; the letter was published in 1858 without Wallace’s knowledge alongside a paper by Darwin. In the introduction to this article of their joint breakthrough, Charles Lyell wrote: “These gentlemen having, independently and unknown to one another, conceived the same very ingenious theory to account for the...perpetuation of varieties.” Instead of sending it straight to a journal for publication, poor Wallace had unwittingly sent it to a rival. “He was robbed”, Bailey states.

Despite Wallace’s initial fame and having authored 22 books and over 200 scientific papers, over time his name has evaporated like steam. But thanks to Bailey’s efforts, a portrait of Wallace has been erected at the Natural History Museum beside a statue of Darwin and the ceremony was attended by Sir David Attenborough. There is also an ongoing project at the museum to upload all of Wallace’s letters on an online database

Two village girls of Gam Island.

10

were experts in the art of ensnaring and preserving birds.

As we returned to the village, my friend’s wife had cooked fresh fish with rice over a wood fire. Drinking water was retrieved from a well and boiled. Puppies sniffed our feet as we savoured the lime sambal and a monitor lizard shot across the nearby beach towards a coconut tree. But as we enjoyed our food, I thought of Wallace who struggled to eat on the island: “The vegetables and fruit in the plantations around us did not suffice for the wants of the inhabitants, and were almost always... gathered before they were ripe. It was very rarely we could purchase a little fish; fowls there were none; and we were reduced to live upon tough pigeons and cockatoos, with our rice and sago, and sometimes we could not get these.” As his health deteriorated, he was forced to forage - eventually finding some wild tomatoes, pumpkins and ferns.

One hundred years ago, in November 1913, the famous explorer and naturalist, Alfred Wallace, died at the grand age of ninety – now his legacy is slowly returning to the public eye as he gains recognition for his overshadowed theories in the field of evolution.

so that researchers can discover more about this heroic naturalist.

Wallace’s dedication to research and his perseverance through rainforests in an era of head-hunters, poor medication and tropical diseases was quite admirable.

Sometimes he thrived after obtaining enough specimens to support his research, but there were also times of dearth and deprivation. He was a humble man with financial difficulties – an outsider in the elite scientific circles of the time - perhaps this spurred him to become a socialist and in The Malay Archipelago, he criticised the “social barbarism” of Industrial Britain.

Fascinated by his story, I recently visited one of the villages on Gam Island in Raja Ampat, where Wallace stayed in 1860 where a Papuan friend of mine still lived with his family. The locals knew about Wallace’s activities as a cendrawasih (birdof-paradise) specimen collector and his cousin offered to take me deep into his forest-garden on the limestone hill where

Red Bird of Paradise.

the Red Bird-of-Paradise (which Wallace collected) often visited. We left before dawn, so as not to disturb the birds and after a one hour trek the sun was bursting above the sea as we reached the spot where the birds ‘played’ before disappearing into the forest to forage. Our guide pointed up to the dark leaves – we could see a male’s red plumes bounce from branch to branch, as well as its corkscrew tail wires. It must have been a thrilling sight for Wallace who had struggled to obtain more than two birds-of-paradise back on the island of Waigeo. In an era before film and photography, specimen collection was vital for scientific research and so Wallace moved to Bessir (now Yenbeser) on Gam island where “eight or ten” of the men

His book The Malay Archipelago is also a fascinating account of the people of Indonesia in the nineteenth century, and Wallace spoke fondly of the “honest” villagers of Bessir who housed him in a stilted hut next to white sand - a “dwarf’s house, just eight feet square” which he cleaned and stayed in for six weeks with his crew and “none of us grumbled at our lodgings.”

It is interesting to see how he perceived this magical archipelago over one hundred years ago. Already, in places such as Ternate and Raja Ampat, the locals still cherish their connections with Wallace, but hopefully he will be recognised beyond Indonesia and scientific circles and reach a larger audience across the world. So, in this centenary year of his death I raise a glass to the great naturalist Wallace and hope that his theories and adventures inspire future generations to come.

Further Information Wallace, Alfred Russell, (1869) The Malay Archipelago, Macmillan: London The A.R. Wallace correspondence project: http://wallaceletters.info/ Bill Bailey’s two-part documentary: Bill Bailey’s Jungle Hero, Wallace in Borneo and Wallace in the Spice Islands

Tess Joyce Tess Joyce lives on an island in Raja Ampat at the moment. Tess is a writer from the UK with a little boat and two paddles who enjoys exploring the seas and corals there.

The Hall in Gam Island, Wallace commented upon these curious coralline rocks. ­­ · 28 August - 10 September 2013

For a Good Cause by g a b r i e l l a pa n j a i t a n & a n g e l a r i c h a r d s o n

Save the Forest, Face the Orangutans Located in what is practically the nucleus of Jakarta, Face Jakarta Bar & Restaurants is a gem among skyscrapers.

General Manager, Ramon Meijer, thrives on Face Bar being a melting pot of people in Jakarta. The Centre for Orangutan Protection (COP), that strives toward the safety of the endangered orangutans, has chosen to host its event here – a vegetarian-friendly place with a love for nature, which was warmly welcomed

by Ramon, who had intended to have a yearly charity event at Face Bar.“Time is running out, we have to do something”, Ramon said about charity work.

Save the Forest, Face the Orangutans will be a unique dining event in collaboration with the COP on 12th September 2013, hosted at Face Jakarta Bar & Restaurants in Menteng. “Raising awareness, that’s the most important thing; not just a fundraiser”, Ramon added. A dining experience for a good cause, some proceeds will go to the Centre for Orangutan Protection who has an important message to all about the orangutans’ well-being; or, sadly, lack thereof.

The Centre for Orangutan Protection (OCP) is an Indonesian organization that fights against crime and cruelty towards orangutans in this country.

Established by Hardi Baktiantoro in 2007, COP protects, rescues and preserves these beautiful creatures, endemic to Indonesia’s Sumatra, Kalimantan and Malaysian Borneo. The small organization is made up of APE Crusader and APE Defender, working mainly in Kalimantan, and APE Warrior, based in Java, who also help the orangutans in Sumatra.

For its size, Indonesia has the largest remaining ancient rainforest in the world, but it is rapidly disappearing, giving way to rolling palm oil plantations as far as the eye can see. According to COP’s Communication Officer, Arfiana Khairunnisa, 75% of palm oil plantation land is actually rented by companies from neighbouring countries – a shocking statistic, considering how much the rainforest would be worth to Indonesia if intact.

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“One of the main problems we face is deforestation for palm oil plantations, killing all flora and fauna in its path, including the orangutans. The few that survive become trapped in fragmented · 28 August - 10 September 2013

forests, with little or no food, often leading to their deaths from starvation or from trying to eat palm leaves”, Arfiana said.

Recently, five orangutans were found

by COP in a fragmented forest in East Kalimantan. As COP had to follow protocol and wait for government authorization and accompany them to this site, which took five days, only one orangutan, named Caroline, was rescued; the remaining four’s fate left unknown. Another problem COP face when rescuing orangutans is where to place them, with limited forests left and conservations filling up fast.

Starting at home, stop buying palm oil products, namely cooking oil, and replace with other oils, for instance coconut oil or olive oil. Arfiana also asks the public to treat orangutans with respect, especially inside zoos. “Don’t tease the orangutans or throw rubbish at them. Please let these creatures be”, she insists.

Only 2,500 orangutans, living in two orangutan habitat areas in Kalimantan, totalling in 47,000 hectares in size, will be safe from deforestation. 75 live in eight zoos and have a good quality of life. COP has rescued at least 50 of our furry friends from the worst of fates and was honoured with the ‘Outstanding Contribution

by Young Activists’ award at The Andrews Awards for Animal Welfare in Chengdu, China, in 2011.

Journalist Tim Deagle’s short film from Aceh will be presented; educating guests on the plight of the orangutans and ways in which we can help. Ticket price is Rp.400,000 and will include a vegetarian three-course meal and local wines sponsored by Hatten Wines. If you are keen on enjoying one of the best vegetarian food from Face Jakarta’s Thai and Indian kitchen, some wine, as well as contributing to the protection of the orangutans, this evening will be the perfect opportunity for you. As Ramon said, “It’s better to do something than have no action at all”.

Face Bar Jakarta Jalan Dr. Kusuma Atmaja No. 85 Menteng, Jakarta Pusat.

(62-21) 31925037/053 www.orangutanprotection.com 11

Meet the Expat by k e n n e t h y e u n g

Meet

Thibaud the Frenchman behind Jakarta100bars.com; a leading source of information on the city’s nightlife.

Where are you from and when did you come to Indonesia?

I’m from the French Alps, near Grenoble.

I’ve been living on and off in Jakarta since 2003. Currently I’m in Bali, but I still make time to visit the latest happening places in Jakarta.

How did Jakarta100bars.com begin?

It started in 2007 as a French blog called ‘Crazy Nights in Jakarta’, which was a sort of internal journal for close friends in the French expat community. We shared our clubbing experiences online, trying to review as many places as possible, especially the ones nobody knew about.

When we visited our 100th bar, we decided to review all of them in English, under the name Jakarta100bars. There was not much information about Jakarta nightlife at that time, so the blog quickly became popular.

Your reviews are refreshingly unpretentious.

We never spend too much time describing food or décor. The questions we try to answer are: How to describe the venue in just a few words? Who would be interested in such a place? Who should avoid it?

How does it compare to similar venues?

Normally that’s enough to help someone decide whether to go or not.

How many nightspots have you covered?

It must be about 500, including restaurants, bars and clubs. The amazing thing is that there are still so many other places to visit.

Do you ever get approached for favourable reviews?

About 50% of the places reviewed have contacted me at some point. None have asked directly for a good review, but they ask for corrections and give additional information, or request the removal of negative comments. I’ve subsequently modified some reviews that were too harsh or incorrect. I receive many invitations for free food, but I accepted only one such offer, as it would make me uncomfortable when I review the place.

You get many risqué comments and personal ads. Do you censor any?

The comments are really fun and one of the main reasons people visit Jakarta100bars. I almost never delete comments or personal ads unless they are spam or really insulting or provocative. Even if I don’t agree with a comment, I will leave it, if it is informative.

Some comments can be very racy, but they tell the truth. Some articles on the website have hundreds of comments discussing where to find prostitutes. I do not condone prostitution, but I don’t think deleting the comments would improve the lives of prostitutes or solve any problems.

Prostitution is widespread in Jakarta.

A blog about Jakarta nightlife would be useless if it didn’t talk about it.

Has the site become profitable?

I only do the blog for fun. There’s no money or freebies involved. This is partly due to my poor skills in marketing and design, 12

plus the crude content may scare potential advertisers.

Are you now focusing more on restaurants than sleazy bars?

Yes, because there are still so many restaurants to review, while the supply of new bars and clubs is becoming scarce.

Also, I party much less now, perhaps because I’m older. Only 5% of the website’s content is sleazy bars, the rest covers restaurants, normal bars, normal massage places, cultural centres, etc. But surprisingly, people tend to read the hottest articles first, ha-ha!

Have you made new friends via the site? Any lunatics?

I’ve made some excellent friends through the website, as I’m always keen on meeting people who contact me. I’ve also taken out some people who were interested in discovering the other side of Jakarta nightlife. I usually filter out the crazy people before meeting them. Many people get the wrong impression that I’m a crazy man, who spends most of his time in dirty joints, which is far from the truth.

What do visitors ask you about Jakarta?

Most of the questions I get are about where to meet girls. Number one would be: Where can I find girls that are not prostitutes but will sleep with me the first night? Number two: Where can I get a massage near my hotel? (and very often they ask if it includes a “plus”). Number three: Is this club/area safe?

Do you get Indonesians asking to meet foreigners?

The comments I get from Indonesians are usually responses to articles I wrote about relationships between foreigners and Indonesian girls. Many girls think I depict Indonesian women negatively. This was not my intention, but it made me realize how sensitive some issues can be, and how sarcasm can easily be misunderstood.

Your craziest night in Jakarta?

I don’t know where to start! A 56-hour marathon in Stadium; a car chase in Senayan with the lead singer of a famous band; hiding in a North Jakarta club as it was raided by a rival gang; discovering some completely messed up nightclubs such as Moonlight, Puja Sera, Exotis or KSC 117; late-night errands in Taman Lawang.

Have you witnessed any sexual exploitation?

I’m not a specialist on the subject, but I’ve seen different kinds of prostitution in Jakarta. In the South and in most nightspots where the clients are businessmen or expats, the girls are usually freelancing. Depending on the girl, she will be looking to grab a man for cash for a night, or trying to find a boyfriend to support her. In most cases though, one boyfriend won’t be enough. In the North and in more organised places, the girls are usually contracted for a certain period of time. The contracts are usually very strict

A

5 6 - h o u r m a r a t h o n i S t a d i u m ; a c a r c h a s e i S e n a y a n w i t h t h e l e a s i n g e r o f a f a m o u s b a n d h i d i n g i n a N o r t h J a k a r t c l u b a s i t w a s r a i d e d b a r i v a l g a n g ; d i s c o v e r i n s o m e c o m p l e t e l y m e s s e u p n i g h t c l u b s s u c h a M o o n l i g h t , P u j a S e r a , E x o t i o r K S C 1 1 7 ; l a t e - n i g h e r r a n d s i n T a m a n L a w a n g

in terms of discipline and working hours, and the take-home pay is very small, as most of the money paid by the customer is kept by the “house”. The same girls may also freelance in the clubs of those places, usually in Golden Crown, Millenium, Mille’s, Stadium, etc. They often have a local boyfriend, too. I imagine there are huge differences in the material conditions between a girl working in Alexis, and one working in a massage parlour in Grogol.

In spite of those conditions, the girls apply freely for these positions and are not tricked into working in a brothel, to my knowledge. I have heard some really distressing stories. Sexual exploitation does not come only from the clubs/massage parlours, but also from the boyfriends and/ or the family of the girl. The relationship between sex, money and love in Indonesia is so complex that I find it very difficult to have a clear opinion about it.

Your top five Jakarta nightspots?

I don’t really have a favourite nightspot, but I have a favourite routine. Usually a good night out involves changing location a few times. Start with a bar (Lucy in the Sky, Loewy, Skye, Eastern Promise), then move to a hotel bar (BATS, CJs, Tempus), then one or two clubs (Immigrant, Blowfish,

n n d ; a y g d s s t .

Domain, Dragonfly, Red Square, X2), then one or two stops in Kota (Stadium, Mille’s, Golden Crown, Illigals, Millenium).

Depending on who I’m with, I’ll try to visit one or two new places, too.

Your top five restaurants?

I prefer small, independent restaurants that are good value for money. In this category, my favourites are: Taj Mahal, a warung-like Indian restaurant in Pasar Baru, Hunan Kitchen on Jalan Labu, next to Jayakarta Hotel, Le Bistro, a superkitsch French restaurant on Jalan Thamrin, Toscana, a romantic Italian restaurant in Kemang, and Liyen, another Chinese restaurant in Kota Tua. There are plenty of better restaurants, especially in 5-star hotels, but they won’t have as much charm as any of the above.

How does Jakarta compare to other capitals?

I am a fan of the craziness, weirdness and mess of Jakarta. I find there is more adventure in this city than everywhere else I’ve been. With very few rules being enforced, Jakarta is a real jungle, where the unexpected is the norm. It is also so gigantic that it’s virtually impossible to comprehend it all. It is a fascinating object of study. ­­ · 28 August - 10 September 2013

Faces of Jakarta by H u s h p e t e r s e n

Hadi the

pa d a ng restaurant manager Every morning at 4am, Hadi and the team from Rumah Makan Cahaya Baru 99, a hidden Padang gem in the belly of Benhil, head to Pasar Senen in search of the rich spices and savoury ingredients that make the tiny restaurant one of the most sought after spots in Jakarta. While most of us would scoff at the idea of getting up well before the rooster to serve hungry customers, Hadi relishes it. He enjoys the constant brow of sweat that comes from turning over tables and scooping steaming rice onto beds of banana leaves for take away orders. There’s a pride most of us will never know that comes from serving customers and taking their complements to heart.

The fact that Hadi and his team have perfected the West Sumatra delicacy isn’t what makes 99 special. It’s not just 28 dishes of Indonesian delicacy stacked perfectly in a window. The food is just the tip of the iceberg. In Jakarta’s cookie-cutter culinary trend, Hadi and his team bring a warmth and hospitality that gives 99 its authenticity. The TV is loud and snowy. The greasy fan in the corner wheezes just enough to notice.

The wastafel towel is oddly a bit too damp. There is a sign announcing the restaurant’s hours and take away service, but they only give the first three digits of the phone number. But that’s what gives 99 its charm. The team of 12 staff joke with one another, poking fun at each other’s weight and bumming each other’s cigarettes. It’s more like a family than anything else. Three of the other 11 employees have been with Hadi since 1999. The youngest of the team has been on board for almost three years.

Hadi, a grown man with a family, still blushes when customers take the time to come up to him personally and confess to him how much they love the ayam bakar, jengkol and rendang

that 99 serves. He looks sheepishly underneath his fingernails as he tries to put into words why he gets such great joy from working at what most would see as a thankless career.

“We know that the food here tastes just as good or better than the more expensive Padang places,” says Hadi, taking a quick break during the lunch hour rush, when the line can get up to four people deep.

“But it gives us a sense of pride that we can keep prices low.”

Hadi used to work for Astra, as a welder, but there was no soul in it.

Here at 99, Hadi and his team garner a sense of community from what they do. Everyone eats at 99, from the doctors across the street at Rumah Sakit Angkatan Laut, to the garbage collectors who roam up and down Jalan Benhil Raya, collecting bottle caps with magnets duct-taped to sticks.

As one of 12 members of the 99 team, Hadi eats, sleeps and breathes Padang - literally. 99 is an all-hours operation, which means that from time to time, Hadi is so exhausted when the restaurant closes that he sleeps upstairs where most of the food is prepared. But sure enough, he’s back up at 6am preparing dishes for when customers start to arrive as early as 7am. Now that’s love.

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hush petersen Hush Petersen is currently on sabatical from the hero's journey. He loves sipping Budweisers, doing the crossword and judging people outside Ranch Market in Mega Kuningan. You should join him sometime.

· 28 August - 10 September 2013

13

Book Review by t e r r y c o l l i n s

Of that list, I’d love a box of cheese, meaning real cheese and not that processed block of plastic found in most supermarkets.

Oh, and if anyone’s going back to the UK for a while, please bring me a jar of Marmite.

“Djakarta is an assault upon the senses of sound, sight and smell.

Indonesia is much more than Djakarta, but it is here that the country begins and ends. Djakarta is the shopfront, the doorway in and the doorway out. What happens in Djakarta may make the cable page or the front page of newspapers from Melbourne to Minneapolis.

What happens in Talangpading (where the hell is Talangpading?) may not even make the back page of newspapers published in Djakarta.”

Indonesia Face To Face

Ivan Southall • Malaya Publishing House (Singapore) 1964 • Landsdowne Press (Melbourne) 1964 I bought this book in a second-hand bookstore in Singapore in the early 90s when I was a newbie here; only now have I come to reread it. What I find fascinating is that many of his observations still apply.

Ivan Southall (1921-2008) was an Australian writer best known for young-adult fiction, but he also wrote seven books for adults, including Indonesia Face To Face.

In 1963, he came to observe the work of the (Australian) Volunteer Graduate Scheme for Indonesia.

The pegawai were “young people who worked in Indonesia for a couple of years or so, not as ‘experts’ on fat salaries, but as ordinary servants of the Indonesian government paid in accordance with the local scale.”

A lengthy chapter, The Fledgling Is A Dubious Bird, is devoted to their pre-departure briefing.

“Indonesia is a very strange mixture. It is not a land of ‘natives’ or ‘coolies’. Nor is it just a rich green country, with sweet, gracious little people and quaint foods, song and dance. It is a country full of social and economic contradictions, but it is also a new, self-respecting country with its own culture and its own way of life.”

One may argue that when one now reads of communal and religious strife, and corruption at the highest levels, that ‘selfrespect’ is not universal.

14

Before his visit, Southall was also a ‘fledgling’ and he was warned about the pitfalls of Jakarta.

Earlier this year, the post office discontinued their telegram (cable) service, obsolescent thanks to the onslaught of the internet. The circa nine million folk who left Jakarta for the recent Idul Fitri mudik went back to their roots to show off their latest clothes and smart phones. The latter are the tools which enable yearly access to local news, friends and family.

However, I’ve also no idea where Talangpading is; search engines only offer Talang Padang in Lampung.

In April ’63, Indonesia and Sukarno were enigmas to western countries and Southall analyses the reasons, many cultural, others historical, thus predating by one year Sukarno: An Autobiography (as told to Cindy Adams). Regarding the future of the country after Sukarno, Roeslan Abdulgani, the Minister of Information and former Foreign Minister, told Southall: “We hope by then to have created beneath him a

sound body of administration, so that the top may change without ill effect, that the top in fact will not matter so much.”

A forlorn hope, given the coup and pogrom just two years later, and few would describe the many current corrupt administrations, from the “top” down, as being “sound bodies”.

Much of the book is devoted to descriptions of the social divide experienced by the rakyat of Java, Sumatra, Kalimantan et al who were encountered by, and hopefully benefitted from, the work of the pegawai. The issues they all faced included illiteracy, hunger and malnutrition, a population explosion, and a lack of infrastructure – roads “had to be re-made each year after the torrential downpours of the wet season.”

There are also accounts of pegawai experiences, including Southall’s initial culture shock. One may hope that Dan Quinn’s Gunung Bagging website will prevent further potential disasters as almost befell a doctor and the two English teachers who he lead up Gunung Awu, on the island of Siau, off the north coast of Sulawesi, (previously mere acquaintances, the teachers later married).

Southall’s fifty year old book is a valuable document about where Indonesia was in the Sukarno era and, perhaps in too many ways, still is. It is therefore most certainly worthy of a reprint. After all, if we have no history, we have no future.

Note: Australians can borrow a copy from the National Library (http:// trove.nla.gov.au/work/15385794)

“It’s the first month or two that count.That’s when you pick up everything that’s going: amoebic dysentery, malaria and so on.

I’ve heard that the cities stink with open sewers and the place is rotten with TB. It’s true, you know. I’ve seen it on TV.” When I came here a quarter of century later, at the end of ‘88, I knew nothing of this. But I do now.

As I wrote about street food in Culture Shock! Jakarta (no apologies for unashamed plug): “you may find the entire experience less than appetizing as you settle down to eat next to an open sewer with rats.”

Regarding TB, according to USAID the population is 328 million (give or take a hundred million?) and in 2010 there were 302,861 notified cases. Furthermore, from July 1st this year the UK Border Agency requires Indonesians who wish to stay in the UK for more than six months to be tested at an approved clinic and be free from tuberculosis before applying for a visa.

In ‘63, as in every year following the departure of the Dutch in 1950, the country was impoverished. So, Southall found himself burdened with Australian oleh-oleh to pass on to the volunteers; a projector lamp, lengths of material, batteries, cans of milk, a box of cheese, shirts, nappies, feeding bottles and medical supplies.

Terry Collins Terry Collins is the co-author of Culture Shock! Jakarta and writes the Jakartass blog.

­­ · 28 August - 10 September 2013

A Tribute

A Tribute to

Carl Gilchriest Carl Gilchriest, one of the pioneers of the Jakarta expatriate community, a serial entrepreneur, with several ventures that were firsts for Indonesia, has died in Somerset, UK, aged 75, following a battle with cancer.

Born in Kent (UK), Carl left school at 15 to follow his passion for cooking, training at Westminster College and completing an apprenticeship at The Savoy in London. A few years later Carl left Europe, moving to Indonesia with his wife, Janette, in 1970. At the time there weren’t many expats, very few restaurants and places for them to meet, and even fewer serving Western food.

Carl’s first projects were the famous Highland Bar and a coffee shop in the Asoka Hotel where he produced Scotch eggs, sausage rolls and other delicacies from home. Achieving this wasn’t easy, Kem Chicks was still just a stand selling eggs, so getting produce meant a tough daily trip to various pasars - a ritual that Carl continued for many years, occasionally taking his sons along to see the latest catch at pasar ikan.

From here Carl worked at the racecourse in Pulo Mas before opening up the George & Dragon, the first independent pub in Jakarta and a renowned meeting point. Gordon Benton, O.B.E., remembers those early days, “We were delighted and it became the hostelry of choice for expats of all nationalities.”

Carl also supported several societies that were established in the 70s and 80s, including the Java St. Andrews Society, The Royal Society of St. George, the British Women’s Association and others.

Carl was at the first Highland Gathering, and continued to support and provided catering for this and other important parts of expat life for many years to come. His famous fish and chips were a stalwart fixture and always ran out before the event was over.

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The George & Dragon wasn’t Carl’s only venture in Indonesia. He was a man committed to his work and he ran over 20 successful businesses. These included The Thistle, The Eye of the Wind, The Barn, The Kings Head, catering for mining operations in Kalimantan, a bar and restaurant in Country Woods, the George & Dragon (Bali), and in later years The Eastern Promise, Castello du

· 28 August - 10 September 2013

Mar, and Mama’s Kitchen to name just a few.

Whilst each provided a different flavour and feel they always stayed true to the core of his design ethos; homely food in a friendly and relaxed environment.

Carl was the fabric of this and would often be found at the bar entertaining everyone with a story of adventures he’d had, like the time he was seated next to a cassowary on a plane out of Kalimantan.

Carl also supported local catering colleges and, along with the training of staff in his restaurants, benefited hundreds of Indonesians with the skills they needed to create a career in the burgeoning, and now vibrant, Jakarta catering industry.

Outside of work, Carl was a devoted family man and spent time away from work with his wife and three sons, Jason, Simon, and Richard. Together they explored Indonesia; many places with familiar names now, but at the time well off the beaten track.

Following his retirement in the early 2000s, Carl sold his remaining businesses and moved back to the family home in the Somerset countryside where he and Janette took up walking, exploring Southwest UK along with more challenging treks in Australia and New Zealand.

The Eastern Promise and the bar and restaurant on the Country Woods estate are the only businesses that remain, a decade after Carl retired. However, the impact he had on the expat community, establishing and supporting elements that make up essential aspects of the social fabric of this life today, continue on as a fitting legacy to a man devoted to hospitality.

Gordon Benton, O.B.E., summaries the thoughts of the many who knew him, “On behalf of those of us who lived, worked and enjoyed living in Jakarta in those days, we can thank Carl, the great raconteur, for his kindliness and great good humour. He will surely be remembered as one of those brave pioneers.”

Carl is survived by his wife, Janette, and three sons, Jason, Simon, and Richard.

This obituary was written by Carl’s sons, Ben and Jason, along with Gordon Benton.

15

light Entertainment by E a m o n n s a d l e r

Indecent Exposure

exchanged light-hearted banter. When he was done, he slammed his locker shut, locked it purposefully and made a dramatic exit. “What’s her problem?” Scotty Gallagher asked nobody in particular.

F

ireman David Bird was a miserable bloke at the best of times, but he looked even more miserable than usual as he climbed out of his car in the fire station car park on this particular Monday morning.

“Morning Earl!” I greeted him with a big smile and a simultaneous glad-to-be-alive slap on the back. “You look like you lost a tenner and found fifty pence.”

He gave me a withering look. “Yeah something like that”, he said as he strode away.

(We called him “Earl”, short for “Early”, not so much because his family name was “Bird” but more because, ironically, he was almost always late for everything.) I wondered what his problem was as I made my way to the locker room to prepare for the morning parade.

When I got to the locker room, Earl was banging about in his locker like a petulant teenager; throwing stuff onto shelves and huffing and puffing while the rest of the Blue Watch crew ignored him and

“I don’t know”, I said. “He was like that when he arrived this morning. His wife’s just dropped so maybe he’s not getting any sleep.”

Earl’s wife had just delivered their first baby the week before and most of the guys had been through the same experience so a chorus of empathetic grunts filled the room.

On parade each man answered, “Here!” loud and clear as his name was called out until it came to Earl, who just grunted almost inaudibly. The Sub Officer looked straight at him and repeated his name.

“Fireman Bird, are you here?” Earl had his cap on the back of his head and he was staring blankly into space and standing loosely at attention.

“Here”, he said with an almost suicidal tone.

“Well I can see your body’s here, but it looks like your brain’s gone AWOL”, the Sub Officer fired back. “I’ll put half a tick shall I?” He sighed heavily and shook his head as he inserted a dramatic and elaborate tick next to Earl’s (real) name.

The parade was dismissed and everyone made their way back to the locker room to change into work uniform. Soon after he got there, Earl found himself surrounded. “What’s wrong with you, Earl?” Scotty Gallagher asked. “Is your wife giving you grief at home or what?”

Earl was reluctant, but eventually he spat out what the problem was. “Yeah she is”, he said, “and it’s all because of you bas***ds.”

He could see we had no idea what he was talking about so he added sarcastically, “My camera? Remember?”

Then we remembered.

About three weeks before that, Earl, a keen amateur photographer, had gone home and left his very expensive top-of-the-range Nikon camera on top of his locker. Not wishing to miss a chance to cause mischief, a few of us had borrowed the camera and taken some choice photographs of our own as a joke hoping to embarrass Earl when he got the film developed. In those pre-digital days, cameras used “film” which needed to be professionally developed, and Earl’s camera had about half of the 36 exposures left (if you’re confused, Google it or ask your Granddad).

We only took three or four photos so Earl wouldn’t notice, then we put the camera

back on top of his locker and he collected it the next day without suspecting anything.

Nobody said a word and we all forgot about it.

Unfortunately, a couple of weeks later, Earl’s wife borrowed the camera to take some shots of their new baby. She finished the roll of film and took it to be developed. When she collected the photographs, she eagerly opened the envelope while still in the shop, impatient to see the pictures of her new daughter. To her horror she also found our pictures – all taken in a shower cubicle with lots of soapy male buttocks, hairy nipples and strategically placed hands but no faces visible. She looked up to see the shop staff giving her very disapproving looks. This happened on the Saturday before Earl showed up at work looking so miserable and he had spent the weekend sleeping on the couch and trying to convince his wife he hadn’t turned gay while she was pregnant.

Happy 100th issue!

To read more by Eamonn Sadler, go to www.eamonnsadler.com To find out more about live stand-up comedy in Indonesia please e-mail jakarta@ thecomedyclub.asia text or call 0821 1194 3084 or register at www.thecomedyclub.asia

for the macet mind

"There were five people on that motorbike..."

Send us the funny things you hear new expats in Jakarta say.

SEND YOUR ENTRY BY TEXT TO:

Across

down

1 Insincere offers (5,8) 8 Hasten (3) 9 Letting in - letting out (9) 10 Tibia (8) 11 Shy - group of actors (4) 13 Coma (6) 14 Look - bird (6) 16 Metrical foot (4) 17 Toxic (8) 20 Shakespeare’s Shrew (9) 21 Anger (3) 22 Mayflower Puritan (7,6)

1 Distinctive spirit - character (5) 2 Eg. Gold, silver or platinum (8,5) 3 Annual almanac (8) 4 Gypsy (6) 5 Canteen - litter (4) 6 Cleaning of equipment to excess - ceremony and formality (4,3,6) 7 Legislative member (7) 12 Extensive view (8) 13 Be prominent - rob (a bank) (5,2) 15 Monotony (6) 18 Cattle - guide (5) 19 Show - just - lovely (4)

0821 1194 3084 Last Edition's answer: Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean on the set of Giant.

We had a lot of correct entries this time but the winner is Ben J. from Tomang, Jakarta. Well done Ben. Please contact us to collect your prize.

*Answers for Edition 99 Across: 1. Voracity 5. Skip 9. Tenor 10. Enlarge 11. Electric hare 13. Potato

14. Peptic 17. Enterprising 20. Dress up 21. Ibrox 22. Dada 23. Cyclamen Down: 1.Veto 2. Ringlet 3. Caricaturist 4. Theory 6. Korea 7. Pretence 8.

Glockenspiel 12. Splendid 15. Tantrum 16. Dropsy 18. Tweed 19. Oxen

This Edition’s Quiz: the 100 quiz Scan the barcode and answer the 10 questions correctly for a chance to win: A CASE OF REFRESHING ALBEN'S CIDER! Congratulations to Imelda Liliyanti for winning a hotel and flight voucher from nusatrip.com worth rp.500,000!

16

­­ · 28 August - 10 September 2013

Glittering Sharia Pyramids

J

ulisar, a Jakarta-based Chinese Indonesian businesswoman, thought she was onto a winner when a friend invited her to invest in Golden Traders Indonesia Syariah (GTIS), a sharia-based gold investment firm, which promised high dividends.

GTIS launched in August 2011, claiming it would buy gold bars from state-owned mining firm Antam’s Logam Mulia division and then sell them at an above market price to investors, who would receive a return of 4.5% per month or 30% per year, provided the gold remained in the hands of GTIS. Julisar began investing in June 2012, spending a total of Rp.940 million ($100,100) to purchase 1,375 grams of gold, which she has never actually seen. She was assured it was a failsafe investment because the gold price “would continue to rise” and the scheme was certified by the Indonesian Ulemas Association (MUI), the country’s top Islamic authority.

There were also endorsements from House of Representatives speaker, Marzuki Alie, and Democrat Party co-founder, K.H. Aziddin.

The gold price has dropped about 20% over the past year, so Julisar’s investment is now worth about only $60,300. Or it could be worthless, as GTIS President Director, Ong Han Chun (alias Taufiq Michael Ong), and Director, Edward Ho Choon Hoong, fled Indonesia about six months ago with at least Rp.14 billion from the scheme.

Some reports claimed they had made off with over Rp.13 trillion. An emergency shareholders’ meeting expelled the two, who are now wanted by Interpol. The remaining assets of GTIS have been blocked by Bank BCA and Bank Mandiri at the request of the company and MUI. MUI officials claimed they had no prior reason to suspect that Malaysian citizen Ong was a swindler. It transpired that MUI had issued GTIS with a sharia certificate within just two weeks, in return for a 10% share in the company. This was widely viewed as a bribe, channelled to MUI’s Islamic Dakwah Fund. The involvement of Aziddin in the scheme should have had investors worried, as he had been linked to previous corruption cases and was expelled from parliament back in 2006 for allegedly helping a private firm win a government contract to build accommodation for haj pilgrims in Mecca.

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GTIS is no longer accepting new investors. When I visited its head office

· 28 August - 10 September 2013

in Mega Kemayoran last week, there were few staff but a lot of nervous investors, mostly Chinese Indonesians, who were being advised to be patient if they want to get their money back.

Julisar is desperate and has offered to forgo her unpaid dividends and 10% of her total investment as an “administrative fee” for the return of her money, but to no avail.

The GTIS debacle is a classic pyramid or Ponzi scheme, in which investors are paid dividends that come from the money put in by later investors. Initial investors usually reap the highest rewards, but those further down the pyramid will likely lose everything because there will never be enough money to repay everyone. Charles Ponzi was an Italian American, who, over 1919-20, raised about $15 million in a pyramid scheme which collapsed, earning him a five-year jail sentence.

In Indonesia, religious themes are often used to give credibility to pyramid schemes. The Financial Services Authority says there are about 40 illegal investment businesses presently being operated. Some claim to invest in property and mines, offering investors annual returns of 8% to 40%.

Last year saw the rise and crash of the ‘Al Amanah’ (Arabic for ‘trustworthy’) scam on Facebook. It reaped trillions of Rupiah from about 13,000 Indonesians, who invested in the expectation of being rewarded with cash bonuses, houses, cars, foreign holidays and haj pilgrimages.

Muslim cleric Jaya Komara from Tangerang last year ran a pyramid scheme called Koperasi Langit Biru, which bilked about Rp.6 trillion from 125,000 investors. He was arrested and died in jail before trial.

One hopeful man recently posted on the Indonesian Atheists online network, fishing for people to invest in a multilevel marketing scam called Talk Fusion.

Unsurprisingly, he received a barrage of scepticism.

GTIS now stands accused by its clients of fraud, but police are still dithering over whether there was criminal intent to defraud the investors. MUI is yet to withdraw its endorsement.

The government should educate people to treat high-yielding investment offers with caution, rather than allowing crooked politicians and clerics to run fundamentally unsound “religious” business schemes that can wipe out people’s savings.

17

Sport by p o n t i y o u n g

arts & exhibitions

meet the one The sport of Mixed Martial Arts,

or more commonly known as MMA, is on the move for global recognition. Appearing in Brazil in the 1920s, the sport rapidly gained notice thanks to the Gracie family who brought the sport over to the United States 20 years ago. MMA combines disciplines such as Brazilian Jiu Jitsu, Muay Thai, Karate, and many others that are useful in an unarmed combat arena. Today, the sport of MMA is ranking high alongside boxing and wrestling.

The inevitable rush for the sport is now busting its way into Jakarta. With more and more Muay Thai and Brazilian Jiu Jitsu gyms popping up like nasi goreng stalls around town, Jakarta is now a focal point for One Fighting Championship (OneFC) to host their second visit on September 13, 2013. Last year, Jakartans got their first live experience of local sluggers, sharing the mat with International heavyweights such as Bob Sapp and Rolles Gracie. The Singapore-based company first took air in July 2011 and is now the largest promoter of MMA in Asia. Aimed to promote local talents, OneFC hand-picks their fighters according to the site of the competition, while also maintaining a roster of ring superstars such as Shinya Aoki and Masakatsu Ueda.

The man responsible for this Asian fisticuffs phenomenon is Victor Cui, a Canadian born Filipino who, against all considerations, has excelled into being Asia’s most successful MMA promoter. I had the opportunity to verbally tackle the man during his recent visit.

How did OneFC start?

We are based out of Singapore and the company is less than two years old. We’ve held events all across Asia, now being the largest event in the region by far. Our television audience is huge, with each event broadcasted live and watched by a billion potential viewers worldwide. Our last event was held in a sold-out 20,000 seat arena. This time in Jakarta it will be held in Istora Senayan, which is a 15,000seat stadium.

OneFC is about bringing the excitement of Las Vegas’ fight night to every city that we go to. This is not your old school, come in shorts and smoke, kind of event.

This is about the who’s who and where the beautiful people are at. We have a VIP red carpet entrance with paparazzi and all the bells and whistles of the

Academy Awards. There is cage side exclusivity for the VIP seats, which are already sold out. OneFC is not just about the fights and the sport of MMA; it is the social calendar night to go out to.

How does OneFC differ from other fighting competitions?

OneFC is about local relevance with global appeal. We bring in top international fighters because we broadcast around the world, but we also showcase national heroes to make it locally relevant.

Indonesians want to know that there are Silat champions, Indonesian kickboxing champions and that SEA games gold medalists are on the fights cards. For the coming event on September 13th, there are six Indonesian fighters from various local gyms on the cards. We also built-in these rivals that appeal to the local audience; Indonesia versus Malaysia, Taiwan versus Japan and so forth. Our focus is to showcase and build national heroes.

What brings OneFC to Indonesia?

Indonesia is a hot bed for MMA, among other businesses. There’s a very strong groundswell here of community support that already know MMA. OneFC held a gathering in July that 46 MMA gyms attended. Once again, the foundation here for the sport is really strong and that is why we are here.

What can we expect with the coming OneFC event on September 13th?

There’s a great stack card of international and local fighters. This will be the biggest fight of the year for Jakarta.

For the fighters, it is their chance to showcase themselves on international, live television. The Silat SEA games champion, who hasn’t had the chance to compete since SEA games, will now get a chance to perform in front of a live audience, and will be training his butt off to be in this event. It is the largest fight night of their careers and this level of excitement is what OneFC builds on.

Whether you’re a MMA fan, pretty face for the international cameras, or simply have an insatiable desire to watch two men going primal at each other, this is an event not to be missed. Let’s fight!

One FC will be held on September 13th, 2013 at Istora Senayan. Fight starts 18.30 sharp. Grab your tickets online at www.kiostix.com

21st Indonesia International Motor Show (iims) Whether you like muscle cars or hybrids, this is the crucial meeting point for automobile enthusiasts. With the prevalence of fuel-efficient cars in the market, this year’s Indonesia International Motor Show (IIMS) is given the theme “Smart Vehicle Mobility”. This theme marks the beginning of a Low Carbon Emission Program (LCEP) that, in the near future, will be inaugurated

by President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono. If you want to take part in the green movement, and have a browse for new cars being showcased – like VW, who is unveiling two cars at once at this year’s IIMS, you don’t want to miss this event. It will take place at Gedung Pusat Niaga Arena PRJ (JIEXPO). Visit www. indonesianmotorshow.com for further information.

19th-29th September 2013 Entrance Fee: 19th September: Rp.100,000 Monday – Thursday: Rp.40,000 Friday – Sunday: Rp.60,000 Ph: +6221 2664 5000

owners, chefs, retail sectors (supermarkets, grocery stores, etc.), and many more. A great opportunity for those who are opening up restaurants or cafes.

JI-Expo Kemayoran 28-31 August 2013 10:00 – 19:00 www.interfood-indonesia.com Trade and business visitor only

Danse Ist D’essence Rp.200,000 can get you a ticket to this vibrant dance show. Basilika The ART Her and Sandy Ulrich presents Danse Ist D’essence, featuring world renowned Dance World Cup 2013 gold medallist.

Danse Ist D’essence will be held at Sunda Kelapa Function Hall at the Batavia Apartment in the Bendungan Hilir area on September 28th 2013. Please contact 08159256265 or e-mail basilikathearther@gmail.com for more information.

Bajaj Boys Live Poetry Performing their poetries live, this time the Bajaj Boys will feature Jeremy Roberts (New Zealand) and Derek Fraser (Manchester, UK) in their act. Friday August 30th 2013 at D’fest Kemang. This live poetry gig will start at 8pm. Call 081319776725 for more information.

music Interfood Indonesia Exhibitions 2013.

International Food Expo The newest ideas on techniques to perfect your culinary business are showcased at the International Food Expo (Interfood) in Jakarta from 28th to 31st August 2013.

Vendor meet-up will be accompanied by seminars on how to boost your start-up, or already successful, F&B (food and beverages) industry. Interfood also offers inspired cooking courses and demos. Exhibitors will display their top-shelf baking supplies, display racks, packaging equipment, cooling and deep-freeze units, and other kitchen appliances ready for purchase or order. Other sectors of F&B that will be presented include the attendance of raw materials suppliers, information on herbal & health food ingredients, food services, as well as consultations for the hospitality industry. The visitors’ profile is as follows: food manufacturers, restaurant / cafe

Style of Eye@ Dragonly Jakarta The Swedish DJ/Producer, famous for his energetic and upbeat sound, is coming to Jakarta. Dragonfly club at Graha BIP will be graced by his presence, as well as well-known beats from songs like ‘Devastate’ or ‘Ray Dee Oh’. Co-writer of the song ‘I Love It’ by Icona Pop, Style of Eye (a.k.a Linus) is touring South East Asia and will appear in Bali, Bangkok, and Kuala Lumpur throughout September 2013.

6th September 2013 Dragonfly. Graha BIP, Jl. Gatot Subroto No. 23 10:00pm – 5:00am Call 085710800003 for info.

sports

Jakarta Komodos Junior Rugby Get your junior rugby enthusiasts to come and play for the 2013-2014 season! The Jakarta Komodos Rugby Football Club hosts its Junior Rugby practice every Saturday at 09:00 until 10:30 from 14th September 2013. There will be regional tours and competitions. For more information please e-mail juniors@jakartarugby.com or call 0812-1037454. www.jakartarugby.com

sports

Melbourne the Photographer Join Melbourne (yes, that is his name), a commercial, industrial, and travel photographer, in a course that Melbourne has prepared in order to share with you what he has learned in his 35+ years of experience worldwide.

If you have just purchased a digital SLR and are not really sure of what the buttons and modes do or if you think you’ve got the basic understanding of photography but would like to develop your skills on lighting technique, composition, and software tricks, Melbourne has a workshop for you. A couple of courses to choose from: “Getting the Best From Your Digital Camera” (Saturday, 14th September 2013 at 9:00 – 16:30) to the continuing practical application workshop “Hands-on Practical Photography” (Sunday, 15th September 2013 at 9:00 to 16:30). The location of the classes is at Melbourne’s studio in South Jakarta. All courses include refreshments, lunch, and course notes.

Go to www.photocoursesjakarta. com or e-mail Melbourne at melbourne@ melbournethephotographer.com for more info on classes, photo tours, and trainings. Get to it quickly because classes do fill up.

Go and use this advantage to get the knowledge you need from one of South East Asia’s most experienced photographers! www. melbournethephotographer.com

ponti young Ponti is a food and wine professional by day and a Brazilian Jiu Jitsu practitioner by night. He has lived in various places in pursuit of culinary enrichment and adventure while finding solace being on his back and grappling his way out of tricky situations.

Contact him at pontiy@ymail.com

18

­­ · 28 August - 10 September 2013

Non-Commercial Classifieds are still FREE! Send in your classifieds to ads@jakartaexpat.biz Next issue deadline: 4th September 2013 Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Jakarta Expat!

Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 15.000 copies bi-weekly.

Conditions: Personal classifieds : Free of Charge / 50 words max Commercial classifieds : Rp. 100,000 / 0 - 50 words

: Rp. 200,000 / 50 - 100 words - Property listings are considered as Commercial.

- For adding an image / company logo in our printed issue another Rp. 150,000 needs to be charged.

Send in your classifieds to ads@jakartaexpat.biz

Spotted Pic

Man tangled Spotted by Gemma

Automotives

1997 Volvo S90 Executive.

159,000km, unmarked royal blue coachwork with cream leather interior. Fine example, only used on Sundays. Over 25M spent on full service, gearbox seal, suspension, tires, ignition coils and much more. Excellent condition and ready for use.

London flat forces reluctant sale.

80M ono. Colin 08121129007 or cghn@chevron.com

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Honda CBR 250R ABS for sale, 1 careful expat owner. 2012 Model (9 months old), Full Yoshimura carbon exhaust, Bridgestone Battlax tires (back 160/60 R17 front 120/60 R17). Original exhaust and tires included in sale. Tinted visor.

Only 1780km, no expense spared maintaining this bike, as good as new. 50,000,000 IDR - price

negotiable. HP - 082125968470 - PIN BB - 26E2DE50 Grey Nissan Serena Ct 2009, very comfortable family car with automatic transmission, DVD, 3TV’S, Synthetic leather Seat Covers, 60,000km, full service records, one owner, registration until April 2014, all risk car insurance by ACA until June 2014, selling due to moving abroad (price IDR 183 Million negotiable) please contact: 0816757175

Property Houses for rent at Kemang, Cipete, Cilandak, Pejaten Barat, Pondok Indah. Big garden, S’pool, Complex, 4-5 bedrooms, U$ 2000 - U$ 7000. Phone: 0816859551 and 08170093366 e-mail: nantha_realtor@yahoo.com

The Mansion at Kemang, Jalan Kemang Raya Number 1-3.

South Tower, 19th Floor, Pool & City View. 62 sqm, 1 BedRoom.

Fully-furnished. 1600 USD/ Month (incl. service charge).

Min. rental 6 months. Please contact: 081317722271 Houses for rent in Kemang, Ci-

· 28 August - 10 September 2013

pete, Cilandak, Pejaten Barat, Pondok Indah. Big garden, S’pool, complex, 4-5 bedrooms, US$2000-$7000. Please call or sms Madam Heny: 085212655150 or 02198861136.

Sunrise House (homestay with hotel style design); New building located at sudirman cbd, few minutes from four season hotel; Contact (081586238622); Monthly rate net usd 400 up; Daily or weekly available; Facilities : a/c, wifi, swimming pool, hot shower, fully furnished, roof garden, lift.

Facebook : Sun Rise House Holiday Rental in Bali, One-bedroom studio apartment in central location in Kuta / Tuban in a 4-star hotel. Bedroom with king size bed, Living room with Sofa bed (2 adult, 2 children) with fully equipped Kitchen,washing machine, free internet access. http://www.kutabaliapartments.com, Contact: relax@kutabaliapartments.com or 0816 186 3140 FOR RENT: 2 BR + 1 Office + 1 Bath +1 Maid's room Apartment at Hampton's Park Pd. Indah.

Fully furnished. Unit is locat-

ed on Ground Floor, Tower A. Beautiful pool view. Rent cost: $1500/month (includes maintenance fee). CP: 087878010799 (Ibu Mahmuda-owner)

A House for sale, truly one of the best spot in this greenest residential area, with a total area (land/ house) of 256/450 m2 featuring of 5+2BR, 5+1 Bathroom, an ex-

tra private garden 300 m2, facing east & south, electricity 7700, garage for 2 cars, carport for 2 cars, furnished + 6 aircon, sanitary brand Hans Grohe+Kohler,

For rent: Tamansari Apartment, Gatot Subroto. Behind Kartika Chandra, walking distance to Mega Kuningan. 1BR, FF, brand new, cozy, 55m2, 15th floor, view to Gatot Subroto. IDR 10,000,000 per month including Service Charge.

Min 1 year. Call 081317722271

Bali Apartment near Seminyak beach.2 bedrooms with AC, 2 bathrooms, hot shower, living room, small kitchen, TV, cable, DVD, wifi and Terrace. Maid every day at noon. Great location.

Heart of Seminyak. Quiet area.

Walking distance to Double Six beach. 80 to 100 USD per night. discount for long stay. <appartments66@gmail.com> 19

lighting brand Megaman, private and calm, close to security portal, Price: 7M Nego. If you are looking for a suburban feel - natural and fresh environment, you will like this! Interested, please contact Yenvi 081703332608.

Discover Villa Gamrang. Experience our hospitality and the complete privacy of your own beach

house. Villa Gamrang (Cisolok beach, 4 hours’ drive from Jakarta) is designed to offer guests a wonderful and luxurious holiday with beautiful and natural surroundings. Stylish interior, several outdoor terrace’s, sea view, spacious garden, swimming pool, 4 bedrooms and 3 bathrooms, complete kitchen, cable television, internet (WiFi). Idyllic place for couples or one or two families. Staff and in house catering available. Attractive prices starting from IDR 1,200,000 per night. Most of our guests visit us again. Reservations. www. villa-gamrang.nl or just mail us villagamrang@gmail.com

Jobs Jobs Available

Seminyak Penthouse. Fantastic investment for expats to purchase in recently opened Paasha Hotel in cosmopolitan Jl. Oberoi. Guaranteed ROI, high capitalization rate, 30 days owners use so can be rented out to increase the yield further.

Penthouse rate is USD305++ sale price to buy this Penthouse is only USD$250k. Call 081353059059 or email rnbuksh@gmail.com

I am looking for a private English speaker swimming instructor at Senayan area for my two kids. Please contact me at 081297516648

Services

Medical evacuation health & life insurance. Let us diagnose your needs.

Contact Paul Beale, mobile: +62 816 137 0663, office: 021-5220990 E:paulbeale@gms-financial.com

Hi. I am Yanti..I'm looking for part-time job or nanny in the evening and weekend..if you are interested please call me.

My no is 087882065408 Thank you very much.

We are a Central Jakarta based learning and development company looking to recruit experienced English Language Instructors for our corporate programs. We currently have full time and part time / freelance vacancies. If interested, please send your CV to recruitment@kpiconsultancy.com We are a production office of fashion garment. We need female models for our fitting session that is done once-two times in a week. The products include Underwear, Swimwear & Outerwear. The face will not be captured in the fitting session.

Requirement : - Size 75D/80C. - Minimum height 160 cm.

- Body weight is normal and proportional.

Send your data and body pictures to recruitment_puls@yahoo.com.

We are looking for Native English Teachers. Full time position. Competitive salary, Paid holiday, Government documents provided. Send CV and digital photo to: newyorklanguangeinstitute@live.com

Looking for Work We are selling our car and our driver is looking for a new employer. He is polite and has been reliable in our experience.

If interested, Please call Winarno at +6281291338444.

DRIVER AVAILABLE. As a result of my retirement, an excellent, reliable, and honest driver needs a new employer. He is Bogor-based but flexible about relocation. His English is fair and he knows South and Central Jakarta well. Contact me at 0816 725 732 for an introduction. Karl 20

­­ · 28 August - 10 September 2013

Bahasas Indonesia lesson for expats at your house or office, given by experienced instructor. Letter of recomendation available. Please call Pak Chairuman 0812 1037 466 or email chairuman2013@yahoo.co.id

Jakarta facilitates your transition from high school to university level education in Australia and other countries. Special direct pathway to Deakin University. For questions about MIBT Jakarta campus or to request a brochure, please contact us at 021 29022285-89 or visit our website at www.mibt.or.id

International Freight Forwarding and Project Specialist. Your solutions for shipment of personal effect / household and commercial goods, let us take care of your problems. Direct, weekly consolidation container to Europe Destination, Australia, Far East and USA. It is our business to support your business.

PT. VLI – PT. Voyage Logistic Indonesia. Bellagio Office Park, OUG Floor No. 19-20. Kawasan Mega Kuningan. Jl. Mega Kuningan Barat IX Kav. E4.3. Jakarta Selatan 12950 – Indonesia.

Tel.: 62 21 300 66 569, Fax. : 62 21 300 66 559. E-mail: voyagelogistics@vllindonesia.com

Bahasa Indonesia class in August 2013 at the American Club. Private also available for Bahasa/English/Mandar in.

Qualified teacher & excellent material 021-68888246 or 081385590009 www.sibschool.com

INTERNATIONAL, DOMESTIC, LOCAL, OFFICE MOVING, STORAGE. Call Francois 085 8838 98678, email: Francois@safeway.co.id , or Lidya 0815 1333 1371 / 08128298-4242, email: lidya.aritonang@safewayrelo.com. www.safewayrelo.com “RELOCATION MADE EASY’’ Private Spanish Lessons. Learn Spanish at your place with an experienced Spanish tutor from Spain. Most of my students come from International Schools (JIS and BIS). Please, call me ( Raúl) 082110502786.

Email: unascartas@yahoo.com

YOUR PATHWAY TO 2ND YEAR AT UNIVERSITY OVERSEAS. Accounting? Finance? Marketing? Management? Media & Communication? IT? MIBT Jakarta campus provides programs that allow you to enter the second year of university overseas. Located in a bright new modern building with facilities that support first-class teaching and learning activities, MIBT

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Scan your books to read them on the go!!! PT. MegaEnviron is specialized in scanning books even without removing the book bindings (non-destructive scan).

Other services include scanning documents, photographs, films, and slides, data entry, managing documents and database. Contact: Charoen Sanpawa, Mobile: 0811930-3744, Office: 021-632-6667.

E-mail:charoen@megaenviron. com. www.MegaEnviron.com

Others

sian Gemstones/Jewels by Irwan, Jl. Juanda (Ciputat Raya) 50, tel 0811824302 - 7492850, emailjewelsbyirwan@gmail.com www.jewelsbyirwan.com; www.fossilizedcoralindonesia.com 24 antique solid teak wood chairs for sale. Price 25 million rupiah.

More info: dian.corry@gmail.com.

Can be delivered.

ELC Junior Trampoline. Sell used elc toddler.Good condition.email me at :dhiank0829@ gmail.com All Indonesian Gems & Jewelry -30% during August. Opal, Fossilized Coral, Chrysocolla, Pearls, Amber, Agate, Coral, Amethyst, etc & an extensive collection of award-winning (1st prize in Paris) jewelry. The Museum of Indone-

· 28 August - 10 September 2013

For sale Italian violin by Aristide Cavalli made in 1923. Price available upon request. If interested please email to wmsingzon@ yahoo.com or call 087781066110

Holiday Rental in Bali, One-bedroom studio apartment in central location in Kuta / Tuban in a 4-star hotel. Bedroom with king size bed, Living room with Sofa bed (2 adult, 2 children) with fully equipped Kitchen,washing machine, free internet access. http://www.kut abaliapar tments.com, Contact: relax@ kutabaliapartments.com or 08161863140

antique wooden house for sale. call 08568151370

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· 28 August - 10 September 2013

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­­ · 28 August - 10 September 2013