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Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership | 83rd Edition | 5th December - 18th December 2012

Sunda Kelapa by Melanie Wood (

Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012



Jakarta Expat­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012

Dear Readers,

83rd Edition | 5 Dec - 18 Dec 2012

Editor in Chief Angela Richardson Assistant Editor Cecilia Forsman Management Edo Frese Sales Dian Mardianingsih Marketing & Public Relations Silvia Forsman Distribution Dian Mardianingsih Graphics Adietyo Randualas Finance & Admin Pertiwi Gianto Putri Lini Verawaty Contributors Stephanie Brookes Jeffrey Hutton Juan J. Leysner David Metcalf Jacques R. D. Eamonn Sadler Grace Susetyo Antony Sutton Will Symonds Editorial Enquiries Circulation Enquiries Subscription Events

Indonesia is a beautiful country with so much to offer, especially within the tourism sector. Unfortunately, there are issues within this division which inhibit positive growth and I refer mainly to corruption, no need to sugar coat the subject. I have heard stories from different tourism sites around the country, each drumming the same sound. “The government back in Jakarta takes 90% of what is charged to enter this national park and we don’t get to reap the benefits.” – anonymous mountain guide in Rinjani National Park, Lombok. In Komodo National Park on Rinca Island, the government raised the park’s entrance fees and have used some of the money to build a rather hideous and unnecessary entrance along with what looks like someone’s mansion, said to be an “office” by the guides. Apart from these clearly essential improvements, where does all the money go? It would be wonderful if the government would plough the money made at park entrances into improving facilities on, for instance, mountains and volcanoes for hikers who come in from all around the world in their thousands, understanding that this would generate more money for the economy and benefit everyone, from the local porters to the government officials back in Jakarta. Mount Rinjani on Lombok has no facilities whatsoever, not even toilets, which means human faeces everywhere (yes, appalling), even though the park’s admission fee was a considerable Rp.200,000 per head. On

the contrary, neighbouring Malaysia provides toilet facilities at every rest stop of Mount Kinabalu, and not an ounce of rubbish is left on this mountain as guides are well-trained and educated, strictly policing this – I wanted to take a mountain flower home with me and our guide reminded us to,“Take nothing but photos and leave nothing but your footprints”. A motto we could all benefit from on home soil. The same goes for the protection of our ocean’s creatures, big and small. If the government protected them and reinforced stricter policing for illegal fishing, this would result in a boom in their population, and in return a surge in the tourism sector, thus paying it back to the people. If however, the government continues to allow the murder of sharks and mantas for instance, until their populations are wiped out, divers will no longer have a reason to travel from all around the world to Indonesia, and this would be the moment of no return. The government must act now before it’s too late, so that the beauty of this country is not lost and both man and nature can flourish. 

in this 83 rd issue: travel: asia dhaka's old town travel: java geek's guide to bandung: celestial wonders of the southern sky travel: southeast asia sri lanka travel: east nusa tenggara The batu bolong: living aboard the good life meet the expat Meet andrew whitmarsh faces of jakarta amanurohim the bajaj driver travel: jakarta hidden gems travel: bali a call to the east: visiting east bali personal tech & apps online booking Light Entertainment i'd rather be playing pool the expat golfer the downsizing: think legs, not arms! Events Classifieds

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spotted pic

Jakarta Expat is published bi-weekly by PT. Koleksi Klasik. Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the writers and the publisher does not accept any responsibility for any errors, ommisions, or complaints arising there from. No parts of this publication can be reproduced in whole or in part, in print or electronically without permission of the publisher. All trademarks, logos, brands and designs are copyright and fully reserved by PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia. Published by PT. KOLEKSI KLASIK INDONESIA Jl. Kemang Raya No. 29A Kemang, Jakarta - Indonesia Tel: 021 7179 4550 / Fax: 021 7179 4546 Office hours: 09.00 - 17.00 Monday - Friday



Jakarta Expat­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012

Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012


Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012



Jakarta Expat­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012

travel: asia

Dhaka’s Old Town By Antony Sutton

Old Dhaka is a mish mash of narrow lanes, crumbling houses home to a myriad of artisans and a history that dates back more than 400 years. There are no accurate maps to the area, there are very few road signs and hardly anyone speaks English. But wandering these historic streets will bring you up close and personal to Bangladesh and Bangladeshis.


angladesh of course is a riverine land, so it is only right that a river should dominate its capital. The Buriganga is a commercial lifeline, a transportation hub and a floating market all mixed up in one fascinating aquatic package. Dhaka’s old town extends about a mile inland from the teeming riverbanks and has changed little over the centuries from when Arakan pirates and European traders were attracted by the wealth of this eastern outpost of the Mughal Empire. Indeed, should those pirates and traders return today they would find little has changed along the riverbank. More people, yes, but many of the buildings and industries would still be recognizable. Sadarghat is at the heart of the area. It is from here three-storied ferries make the overnight journeys south to towns and villages still without a direct road to their capital city. Among the colossus passenger ferries strive an incredible variety of smaller vessels catering to the needs of the local traders and commuters. Flat bed ferries regularly cross the Buriganga, dwarfed by the much larger passenger ferries, transporting just a handful of people to the opposite bank, their boatmen straining every sinew, sweating under the harsh sun with sweat staining their turbans and sarongs. Produce is forever being unloaded with porters carrying onions and potatoes, vitals in the local diet, on their heads up the gentle slope to the nearby market along Ahsanullah Road. The road, like all in this area is narrow and motorized vehicles cannot reach it. Instead, goods are loaded on to wooden carts which are then pulled by hand to their destinations across the city. 4

The Ahsan Manzil, or Pink Palace, is within easy reach of Sadarghat and overlooks the teeming waterway. Built by a wealthy Kashmiri businessman who made Dhaka his home, this impressive house with its dominating staircase now houses an interesting museum that details a Dhaka now long forgotten and its quiet gardens offer a much needed respite after the din of the streets. Dhaka’s cosmopolitan past lives in Shankharia Bazar or Hindu Street. Down here the narrow lanes get narrower and the decrepit buildings with their faded charm get higher. There is barely enough room for a single rickshaw to pass the labourers busy carting their wares. Each narrow shopfront bursts with economic activity, be it conch shell bangle makers, Hindu artefacts or the impossibly small coffee shops with tiny stools that rise barely 12 inches off the ground. Some shops are brightly lit; others boast a few wall mounted candles recalling days gone by, though truth be told there is a practicality to the wax. Dhaka’s growing population places great demand on its infrastructure and power cuts are a regular occurrence. Space is at a premium down Hindu Street, light also as the tall buildings ensure lengthy shadows for most of the day. The incessant tinkling of bells in this half light by impatient rickshaw riders is somewhat soothing and even hypnotic at times. Some of the earliest colonial settlers in the East were the Armenians, and their legacy endures even to this day in downtown Dhaka with a district named Armanitola. Never particularly numerous even at their peak during the height of the British Raj today their tiny community boasts nine

families who still regularly attend services at the Armenian Church on Armanitola Road, much as they have done since it opened in 1781. The church is usually locked up, but there is a caretaker and the friendly locals will usually summon him if people want to have a look around. He will open up the church, which is a small narrow chapel with wooden seats and a high, arched ceiling. Dhaka is all about people. Whether it’s the schoolchildren in caged rickshaws or women breaking bricks on the side of the street, bare foot urchins playing among the discarded rubble of a failed construction site or exhausted, sweat stained cart pullers enjoying rare down time nibbling on a biscuit, Dhaka’s Old Town gives you a snap shot of how life is for the vast majority of Bangladeshis in their capital city. Logistics – the best way to see the Old Town

is to go with a guide. Many people will not know the places you may want to visit even if they could understand English. Getting around – the only way is by rickshaw. The lanes and alleyways are just too narrow for any kind of motorized transportation. Getting to Bangladesh – regular flights to Dhaka from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok.

International is more central to the Old Town and on a busy thoroughfare, NorthSouth Road. But busy does mean busy! Sheraton and Pan Pacific Hotels can also be found a bit further north. Places to eat – the Motijheel area is home

to an increasing number of small deli type places that offer reasonably priced western food in clean environments. Helvettia is one example just next to the Pacific Hotel. The Al-Razzaque International has a large dining area downstairs which is popular with locals and tourists alike. General info – the best resource for

Bangladeshi info is a couple of brothers called Mahmud and Mahfuz. They can help organize hotels, airport pick-ups as well as guide people around Dhaka, and of course the Old Town. They have been mentioned in the last Lonely Planet guide to Bangladesh and are highly recommended. 

Visas – varies according to nationality. Best thing is to contact your nearest Bangladeshi embassy. Places to stay – a good choice is Pacific

Hotel in Motijheel, the main commercial district ( but the area is very quiet at night. Al-Razzaque

Antony Sutton Antony is a freelance writer based in Jakarta. Please send comments and suggestions to

Jakarta Expat­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012

Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012


in rememberance

Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012



Jakarta Expat­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012

travel: java

tea plantation in West Java, which made them some of the richest men in the Indies. Before passing away, Bosscha’s father instructed him to use his wealth to contribute for the advancement of science and technology in the Indies. In 1923, Bosscha honoured his father’s wish by establishing Observatorium Bosscha for the Technische Hogeschool van Bandung, ITB’s predecessor.

Geek's Guide to Bandung - Part 1

Celestial Wonders of the Southern Sky By Grace Susetyo

“Bandung” often evokes images of the star-studded café and shopping scene. Granted, Bandung does have a glamorous charm that gets Jakartans begging for more, even if it means moving traffic hell two-anda-half hours away down the toll road.

Bosscha hired Dutch-Madiun astronomer Joan G.E.G. Voûte to become the observatory’s first director (1923-1940). Voûte’s research with Observatorium Bosscha included double stars, parallax measurements, and the photometry of variable stars and clusters. Thanks to Voûte’s negotiations with the Dutch government, Observatorium Bosscha became independently operated under the ownership of the Dutch East Indies Astronomy Association, whose board included some powerful Indies-based Dutch businessmen and government officials.

n this visit to Bandung, though, I thought of a real atmosphere change. Still star-studded and glamorous, but minus fancy mixed drinks named after celebrities, outfits pulled out of fashion magazines, or top notch DJs. Rather, it involves escaping urban commotion to be blown away by the cosmic greatness of the heavens.

for the grains to start falling, that’s when planting season starts,” said Evan. Now that modern technology has mostly replaced these functions, astronomy has become more of a scientific quest to answer philosophical questions about the universe innate to the human mind and heart.

“I cannot tell you how many times we’ve donated telescopes to schools and taught classes how to use them. When I return to visit them the following year, I’d ask ‘Did you have fun stargazing?’ They’d say, ‘We stuffed

Driving an hour northbound to the serene hills of Lembang, I intended to nurture my inner geek at Observatorium Bosscha, Indonesia’s only professional astronomical observatory and one of the few in the world’s Southern Hemisphere. The visit filled me with wonder and awe as I glimpsed into the history of the universe from an Indonesian perspective.

Though astronomy is no longer a science with many practical applications, it often prompts other disciplines to research and develop new inventions that eventually become productive tools used by the Average Joe on a daily basis. For instance, the digital camera was invented in the 1960’s for NASA’s unmanned missions to Mercury and Venus.

Old science, youthful thrill Walking down the lush, dew-covered gardens, I entered a Dutch style study to meet Evan Irawan Akbar, an astrophysics researcher for the Bandung Institute of Technology (ITB), and Yatny Yulianty, the observatory’s curator. Having expected graying professors, it was surprising to find them in their late twenties or early thirties. Naturally, my first question was why study celestial beings light years away when Earth itself has more problems than humankind can ever figure out. “Why not?” smiled Yatny. “Everyone has been awestruck by the beauty of the evening sky. That in itself is a big enough ‘wow factor’ to attract people to astronomy.” In antiquity, astronomy was important for navigation, timekeeping, and determining the seasons for planting, harvesting and hunting, explained Evan. Astronomy is the oldest science known to humankind. Most civilisations have their own versions of traditional astronomy. For ancient Javanese people, the Waluku constellation (Orion) is an important marker of the seasons, as written in the Pranata Mangsa, a pre-Islamic Javanese agricultural solar calendar bible. “The Orion rises four minutes earlier per day. In ancient Java, at the crow of the rooster before dawn, farmers take a handful of rice grains, stretch out an arm and raise the open palm east toward Waluku. When the palm has to be raised at a high enough angle 6

“We’re still waiting for the next ‘Bosscha’ to make it happen,” quipped Yatny. 

"When I return to visit them the following year, I’d ask ‘Did you have fun stargazing?’ They’d say, ‘We stuffed the telescopes in the closet because they don’t work,’” said Evan. “When I check, the telescopes work just fine, but are perceived otherwise because images appear upside down."

Astronomy for fun As a child in grade school, I loved astronomy classes because they seem to come with a sense of mystery and magic. But here in Indonesia, many teachers are afraid of exploring too much astronomy with their classes for fear of “getting it wrong.”


Evan and Yatny admit that being astronomers in Indonesia is no easy job. In addition to covering research for a 1,9 squarekilometre country, Bosscha astronomers are also expected to participate in public services such as conducting tours for visitors and training in schools throughout the country. There really should be more--at least one for each time zone.

Grace susetyo Grace is a freelance writer, former TV journalist, and aspiring documentarist with a passion for Indonesian history and culture. Now in her 6th year in Jakarta, Grace has lived in various countries and looks forward to exploring more places. Contact her at

Indonesia’s contributions to world astronomy Modern astronomy in Indonesia started between 1595-1597 as Dutch explorer Frederik de Houtman sailed in search of the spice islands. When the ship got lost at sea, de Houtman looked up and noticed that the stars look different from the tropical sky. He drew a map of four constellations, used it for orientation, and ended up in Batavia and Aceh. Back in The Netherlands, de Houtman’s countrymen were delighted with the fourconstellation map and sent him on another journey to Nusantara to make a complete sky map. Subsequently, the imperalists easily found Nusantara. It marked the Dutch’s breakthrough in the spice trade and the precursor to the establishment of the Dutch East Indies colony. “It was an economical and political conquest elegantly packaged in astronomy,” said Evan. In the 18th century, German pastor Johann Mohr came to Batavia and established a small observatory to satisfy his hobby of observing eclipses and the movements of Venus. After Mohr’s death there was a two-century silent period in Indonesian astronomy until Bosscha. Karel A.R. Bosscha was a Dutch tycoon in the Indies’ tea business. Though not a scientist himself, Bosscha’s father and grandfather were physicists. As a student in Delft, Holland, Bosscha founded an amateur astronomy club on campus. He then dropped out and joined his father-in-law Kerkhoven’s

the telescopes in the closet because they don’t work,’” said Evan. “When I check, the telescopes work just fine, but are perceived otherwise because images appear upside down. But teachers don’t get it and are afraid of making a fool out of themselves before the class.” Nevertheless, there are still thousands of astronomy enthusiasts all over Indonesia participating in amateur clubs in Jakarta, Bandung, Yogyakarta, Surabaya, Bondowoso and many others. And despite never advertising, Observatorium Bosscha keeps getting a steady flow of visitors who come “for fun”. Some, like myself, make the mistake of coming in the rainy season when nighttime observations are closed. However, many are happy to just stop by for a chat and a tour for now, and return in the dry season (AprilOctober) to look through the majestic Zeiss and Schmidt telescopes at night. In 2012, public nights were fully booked throughout the season.

Observatorium Boscha Jalan Teropong Bintang, Cikahuripan, Lembang. Bandung. Tel. (022)2786001- http://bosscha.itb. Daytime tours (Rp7,500 per person) available all year long: Saturdays 9:00 AM--1:00 PM, or Tuesdays to Fridays only for parties of 25 or more. Public evening observations (Rp10,000 per person) will resume April to October 2013, except during Ramadhan. Schedule TBA. All visits should be booked in advanced, and appointments met on time.

Jakarta Expat­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012


Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012

travel: southeast asia

Sri Lanka Words & Photos By Will Symonds

I have long held a fascination with the tear shaped island clinging meniscus-like to the Indian sub continent. Their cricketers - always the bravest underdogs - have been my “other’ team since the first Cricket World Cup, 1975 when Mendis & Co. endured a terrible battering from the fearful Lillee and Thomson. Decades later I had proudly eaten a Ceylon chicken curry the night before war-torn Sri Lanka defeated Australia and lifted the 1996 World Cup.


first visited Sri Lanka another dozen years later, when the civil war was at its height. Disregarding corporate travel advice I stayed at the astonishing historic Galle Face Hotel - it sits next to Galle green, on the beach in the centre of town, as did once the Raffles Hotel - which had long been high on my list of Hotels at which to stay. The air raid started at 11 the night I arrived. Jet lagged and early to bed, I was awoken by hotel staff asking me to turn the light off, something of an irony as I had only turned on the light to answer firstly the phone, and later the door. The raid itself thankfully came to nothing - by then the Tigers had no planes to speak of. But the raid, or non-raid, was enough to convince my concerned hosts that I needed to stay in another hotel - and so the next morning off to the relatively sanitized Cinnamon I did plod. An old friend of mine had travelled extensively to Colombo in the 1970s, and I met him a couple of years back. We talked much of Colombo but the Colombo he described to me had buzzing restaurants on every corner, pubs and clubs and sounded great fun. To me it was unrecognizable - it was as if he was describing somewhere in the future. By the time I first arrived in 2008 the city was heavily patrolled and pretty much moribund at night, though it was possible to find a Mojito at 2am if you tried hard enough. Below the surface I also found that Lanka was even more like the 1970s - a much under-rated decade if you ask me - than it looked - hotel bars were firmly modelled

Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012

on the 1970s English pub, female fashions appeared to have been stuck ever since 1975, trade unionists gave long-winded speeches and were to be feared and (the best bit), every radio station played non-stop 1970s classics. The war ended - abruptly and tragically - in 2009, and so last year I stayed once more at the Galle Face, this time without unwelcome interruption. My room was a few metres from the ocean and I slept with the windows open, until the disco started on Galle Green. Lankans were slowly recovering their neglected ability to party and the buzz was returning. I even heard some 1980s music. New nightspots were opening every month. I have not been there for over a year and now I want to get back to visit Lanka and see what’s happening. I want to see my many kind hosts again, and with them try the Ministry of Crab, recently opened by two Sri Lankan cricketers, and see where else I can find that once-elusive 2am Mojito. There are still very few international chains of everything, and still plenty of 1970s music on the radio. If only for those reasons I do recommend that anyone half-interested travel there and go there soon. Sri Lanka is a small country and it is remarkably easy to get around. The people are great company. The Rupee has recently devalued and everything is terrific value. There are non-stop day flights from Colombo on Mihin Lanka. Other flights are generally overnight via KL or Singapore. Visitors from Indonesia will find much is familiar. Firstly, it’s actually very near - at

least to Northern Sumatra, and is physically very similar. Indeed in many ways Lanka belongs to Southeast Asia, despite its proximity to India. My Malaysian colleagues told me that it really does look a bit like Malaysia might have looked in 1980, with touches of Thailand present in the many statues of the Buddha, and in the pictures of the head of state on every street corner. The food is essentially Southeast Asian too, and delicious at that. For all that, Sri Lanka makes quite a contrast with Indonesia - it still has nothing of the commercial fast lane - the biggest mall in Colombo is not much bigger than the Louis Vuitton shop in PI, but it nonetheless contains a better small bookshop than I have found anywhere else in Southeast Asia. Lankans are sports mad and a game of cricket or rugby is never far away. Colombo is a fascinating and beautiful city it would make a damn good film set double of Georgetown in Penang - another of my favourite Asian cities - and surely no other Asian capital is so green and clean. Stay at the Galle Face Hotel and eat at Paradise Road Cafe, Barefoot, Lemon, Mango Tree and the Ministry of Crab. Galle sits on a tiny isthmus on the southern coast and is the most beautiful city I have visited in Asia (and has two remarkable luxury hotels within its ramparts - the Galle Fort is incredibly nice, nicer even than the Aman). Its massive historic city walls saved the city from modern development, and moreover saved its inhabitants from the terrible Asian tsunami. We loved its peaceful atmosphere. At the other end of the luxury scale I must recommend a small and ridiculously inexpensive Indian restaurant, up a spiral staircase above an antique shop

looking out over the sea near the lighthouse. It is called the Indian Hut, with a familiar red hat-shaped logo. Kandy is a delightful cool city in the mountains and is close to the tea plantations. Its main street is curiously reminiscent of rural Surrey. I’d recommend the Suisse Hotel for its quaint colonial charm, and position on the lake. The beaches are deserted and perfect. I’ve heard the east coast beaches are the best, though I’ve yet to get that far. The bay at Trincomalee looks quite special. Yala National Park in the South will get you as close to crocodiles and elephants as you would ever wish. The nearest town, Tissa, is a delight, with stunning Buddhist monuments. The mountainous centre of the island offers endless pursuits - be they Buddhist temples or antique trains through tea plantations. Do try the food - especially hoppers for breakfast - similar to an api in Indonesia, smoked seer fish, and the daal and curries. The local beer is terrific and I seem to recall they mix a damn fine Mojito - best accompanied by hot fried spicy cashew nuts. 

Will Symonds Will Symonds has lived in Indonesia since 1999 and has held director roles in Indonesia with several MNCs. He currently advises businesses on matters related to financial management. He is a keen photographer and captains the East Indies Cricket Club, with whom he intends, one day, to tour Sri Lanka.



Jakarta Expat­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012

travel: east nusa tenggara

The Batu Bolong: Living Aboard the Good Life By Angela Richardson

The Komodo National Park, an area of 1,817 square kilometres made up of three main islands, Komodo, Rinca and Padar, as well as several smaller ones, was earlier this year awarded the prestigious title of one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature.


protected area where one can find prehistoric gigantic lizards, turquoise-blue sea, white (and even pink) sand beaches, untouched islands, a bountiful ocean of fish, coral reef and even dolphins, it’s hard to believe this kind of world still exists. The best way to experience this paradise is on a live-aboard and if you want to be on one where you arrive as friends and leave as family, I suggest you try the Batu Bolong. Owned by Jon Elliot (an Australian geologist), Pedro Restrepo-Pace (a Colombian geologist) and Danny Beak from Labuanbajo, the Batu Bolong is an understated beauty. Her 23-metre long skeleton was found in Sulawesi, where she was worked on for a number of months to become what she is now; three levels with a top deck for dancing and lounging, along with an open-air sleeping area at the stern of the top deck where eight can sleep on four double beds sans walls, a middle deck where the kitchen cum shaded lounge area can be found, and two double en-suite cabins down below. My advice would be to sleep upstairs as it can get quite stuffy down there, especially when the generator is turned off at around midnight. But this is what makes this boat different to others; you sleep without the sound of a generator nagging in your ear, and instead to the sounds of wilderness whilst docked in a bay where hardly a ripple can be seen on the ocean’s surface. The Batu Bolong is fully equipped for diving trips and will take you to some of the best dive sites in the world. Also onboard was our dive instructor, Adrienne Salcau, who knew these parts like the back of her hand and 8

enthusiastically shared her expertise with us. Adrienne’s pre-dive briefs were thorough and clear, which meant fun and safe dives, and she gently encouraged us to attempt strong current dives (renowned in these waters) so we could experience the best that diving here has to offer as well as become more experienced ourselves. The best site was Castle Rock, which was enjoyed at sunrise to avoid sharing with other divers. We did, however share the surface with dolphins, curiously dipping in and out of the waters around our dinghy as we edged towards the drop site. Entering the water via negative entry, we went straight down to around 25 metres and were immediately hit with a strong current, forcing us to hold on to the coral to avoid being dragged away. This site is special because it’s filled with all things large – white and black tip sharks up to three metres in length, reef sharks, blue fin tuna, giant trevally and napoleon wrasse (known to weigh up to 150kg). When you park on the bottom of the ocean, holding on and feeling the current blast in your face, you can just watch their world go by as though you were watching a giant aquarium. I would return to Komodo for this site alone. It’s an exhilarating action dive filled to the brim with life. Another major attraction for divers to these parts is the Manta Ray. These gentle giants are the largest of their kind here (three metres long) and we came into contact with at least six at Manta Alley. At a max depth of 15 metres, this alley can be enjoyed by snorkellers as well, although the current can take you quite far on the surface. One manta in particular slowly swooped down and hovered a metre above us to bask in our bubbles and it was such an honour to be able to get close to these beautiful animals that are being poached at an incredible rate off the east coast of Bali and elsewhere. Of course a trip to the Komodo Islands wouldn’t be complete without meeting some of the local inhabitants – the Komodo Dragon. We took a morning trip to Rinca

Island’s national park and enjoyed the medium walk, encountering several large mothers guarding their nests, a large male on the prowl, following a water buffalo everywhere it went and almost a dozen lazier dragons dozing below the island’s dapur (kitchen). This park is maintained so well, with not a shred of rubbish seen anywhere and guides speak excellent English, protecting us with effective, albeit primitive large fork sticks. The National Park has seen a significant upsurge in tourism since it was declared a New7Wonder with 40,000 visitors encountered in the first quarter of this year alone. Life aboard the Batu Bolong is multidimensional and caters for the non-divers, as well as children, with escorted snorkelling trips available on a whim. Other activities include short hikes where you can watch stunning sunsets, beach barbeques, and swimming in crystal clear waters of isolated islands. The crew were really top rate; from the moment I got in touch via email until the moment we left, we were looked after. Coordinator, Santy, was a barrel of laughs, welcoming me with open arms, Captain Hassan navigated wearing a pirate’s hat and always had a smile on his face, as did co-owner Danny (also a Dive Master), and Chef Nur cooked delicious healthy food throughout our time onboard. The deckhands were quiet but diligent, and there was even a live-aboard masseuse to knead out those pesky knots. Nothing was too much to ask and we felt 100% relaxed and most importantly, safe. When asked if there were plans to expand the business, Elliott answered, “We have no intention of expanding. We would like the boat to pay its way, provide on-going employment for our team from Labuanbajo and to offer our crew opportunities to develop new skills as mechanics, dive masters or whatever. We also plan to take the boat to other parts of the archipelago in the off-season after this year such as Raja Ampat.” 

Getting there: It’s best to take an evening flight from Jakarta to Bali and stay overnight near the airport. Morning flights from Bali to Labuanbajo can be organized by the Batu Bolong team. Recommended duration of stay: 3 nights – 2 just isn’t enough. Must bring: Plenty of sunscreen and a camera. Clothes optional. Contact: Danny 0852 3933 4873 Santy 0812 3720 7579

Jakarta Expat­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012


Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012


Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012



Jakarta Expat­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012

meet the expat

Meet Andrew Whitmarsh.

The adventurous travel writer and author of the newly released walking tour guide, Jakarta: 25 Excursions in and around the Indonesian Capital.

As a travel writer you must be quite well acquainted with the islands of Indonesia. What’s your favourite spot? I like to be on the tops of volcanoes, no matter the island. Whether it’s the ever-explosive Semeru volcano in East Java, the massive Kerinci volcano in West Sumatra, the budding Krakatau volcano in the Sunda Straits or Rinjani Volcano of Lombok. Are there any places you haven’t been to in Indonesia that you’re itching to visit? Papua is the only place left that is a ‘must’ for me. I’d love to climb Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid) or do some serious trekking in remote areas.

And what was life like before Indonesia? Not nearly as exciting. I lived in a remote mining town, deep in a canyon, in the Republic of Georgia for 2 years before coming here, which was great, but the things I’ve seen and done here in Indonesia in the past 8 years have been enough to fill a lifetime. Luckily mine’s only half over. You recently wrote the travel guide, Jakarta: 25 Excursions in and around the Indonesian Capital. How did the idea come about to write a walkingtour guide? When I first got to Jakarta, I set out exploring the city immediately on foot and by bicycle. It wasn’t long before I realized the city was full of incredible things to see and places to go, contrary to what everyone around me was saying. All my friends kept complaining there was nowhere to go and nothing to do, but I knew otherwise. So I set about gathering information, drawing maps and crafting the initial chapters of the book. Melanie Wood is your wife and photographer for the guide. How did you two meet and how has it been collaborating with your other half? I met Melanie in Georgia, where she was working in Tbilisi as a journalist and teacher. I fell under her charm immediately and eventually proposed to her at 10,000 feet on Slamet, a very active volcano in Central Java and then married her in a 14th century cave church in Central Turkey last year. She’s very adventurous and loves exploring the

tiny streets of the city, so it’s been a great partnership. Be sure to check out her blog Who did you have in mind when you wrote this book? The expats of Jakarta. These poor folks generally keep themselves locked up behind gated communities and sequestered to the small areas they feel comfortable in, not because that’s how they want to live, but because there is such a dearth of reliable information on where to go and what to do. In addition, they’ve gotten so much misinformation about the city that they’re scared to venture out and explore and they’re under the impression that walking is impossible, but that’s far from the truth. What do you hope to achieve through this guide? I honestly love Jakarta and I’d like other people to experience a slice of the good times. If you go out at the right times, to the right places, properly prepared and with the right frame of mind, this city will blow your mind. Don’t forget though, to truly experience the city, you need to do three things: Stay off the main streets, only travel by foot or becak and talk to as many people as possible. Which of the 25 excursions from the guide is your favourite? For culture, I love the Cikini excursion, for history, the Monas/Pasar Baru excursion, for sheer variety the Blok M excursion and for weirdness the Glodok/Mangga Besar excursion. My favourite excursion is Bendungan Hilir – a little known gem of a neighbourhood right downtown. What challenges did you face when putting this book together? First of all, Jakarta is huge, so it took me years to scout the whole city to find suitable locations, activities, sights etc. I’ve bicycled hundreds of miles criss-crossing Jakarta. Next was photographs, not every day is good for shooting so Melanie and I had to visit and re-visit a lot of areas. Another was finding accurate historical and contact information. Finally, I put my life at risk quite a few times such as riding on the top of a train where I nearly lost my head on an electrical wire.

Andrew and his wife, Melanie Wood at the launch of his new book: Jakarta: 25 Excursions in and Around Indonesia's Capital


Having spent so much time travelling the streets of Jakarta, what have you come to love most about the city? The people are the friendliest I’ve met,

"If you go out at the right times, to the right places, properly prepared and with the right frame of mind, this city will blow your mind." anywhere in the world. No matter how poor, or how destitute, they have treated me with respect, with humour and with open arms. I never once had a safety issue or was abused and believe me, I’ve been into some really ramshackle places. I also love the labyrinth layout of this city. I feel like a mouse in a kid’s cardboard maze, running around, trying to find the prize. Are there any things you dislike about the city and what would your advice be to overcome the negative aspects, like traffic for instance? I don’t like the noise and pollution from traffic. My biggest advice is to go out as early as possible and to stay off the main roads. Driving on major arteries, Jakarta often looks like hell, but step a block or two off the main path and you can find heaven.  Thanks Andrew! To get in touch email, Jakarta Expat­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012


Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012

faces of jakarta

Amanurohim the Bajaj Driver

Words and photos by David Metcalf


manurohim left his village near Semerang in 1978 in search of work in the Big Durian. After a few weeks of looking, he eventually wound up driving a bajaj in the Kemang area and has been happily driving locals and expats around the streets of South Jakarta ever since. He never completed high school as his father was too poor to pay for the uniforms and books, thus he ended up like so many Javanese, without a completed high school education and searching for work. He feels very fortunate to have found work as a bajaj driver and earns enough money to support his wife and put his two kids through high school. He is proud of his two sons as they have completed school and secured good jobs, one in a printing company and the other as a laptop repair technician. Driving bajajs is heavily controlled and you must have a license. The police do not tolerate freelance drivers and they do not remain on the road very long. Aman leases his bajaj from his friend for

Rp.450,000 a month. He would never be able to raise the Rp.20-25 million to buy one and firmly believes he never will. A typical workday for Aman starts at 7 am and he normally finishes at about 7 pm with a break in between, six days a week. The heavy pollution driving in the Jakarta traffic does not bother him and he uses herbal medicine for his throat, which gets a bit hoarse at times, particularly as he smokes a packet of cigarettes every two days. In Aman’s world there is a fine line between income and survival and he is often worried about getting sick, as this means no way of putting food on the table. We developed a great rapport and Aman invited me back (in his Bajaj) to his simple home in the back streets of Kemang to meet his wife and grand daughter. I could feel a very genuine love for his wife and family and a proud man held in high esteem. It was a privilege to have a glimpse into his work life and home life and understand a little more about a local’s perspective of life and times in Jakarta. 

David metcalf David Metcalf (Dayak Dave) is a professional photographer who specialises in photography workshop tours and cultural, adventure tours throughout Indonesia. Please visit his website and

Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012



Jakarta Expat · 26 September - 9 October 2012


hidden Gems

By Jeff hutton

A public awareness campaign uncovers Jakarta’s few suitable but forgotten parks, whetting local appetites for green spaces they can use.

Taman Suropati


hen Samsuri moved into the park custodian’s cottage at Taman Langsat in South Jakarta’s Kebayoran Baru, he asked a family member to bless his new sturdy home and make peace with the ghosts that he thought might lurk in the trees.

that focuses on sustainable development and environmental awareness. The Kemang based agency is profit driven but it won what’s thought to be the first government contract to raise public awareness of the city’s officially listed 1,000 or so parks.

He says he’s confident the new administration of Joko Widodo, who was elected governor in September, will set aside more green space and improve on the parks the city already has, pointing to cities such as Oslo, Melbourne, Vancouver and Singapore as possible sources of inspiration.

Adding to a sense of gloom, the 54-year-old says, “We’re legions of homeless people.” Over the years squatters, vendors, and drivers waiting to go on shift had descended on this sizable park a stone’s throw from bustling Blok M, driving away what few visitors the dilapidated green space received.

The Hidden Park campaign attracted more than 2,500 followers on Twitter as visitors snapped photos of the park’s art works commissioned for the occasion and loaded them onto the networking site. Movie nights, when not rained out, were another hit. Most visitors said they’d never visited the park before. Zamira and her gang invited 75 students from three neighbouring schools to plant and harvest vegetables in Taman Langsat. Only four of the grade eight students had visited the green space on their own.

“The parks in Jakarta should have ecological value, and benefit the economy as well as social culture,” Joga explains.

That was 12 years ago. Today Samsuri says the park is a happier place. Renovation work back in 2010 and a monthlong public awareness campaign in November has wooed visitors, swelling numbers fourfold on the weekends, he reckons. “The spirits co-exist with the people here, maybe.” “Before, it was harder for people to come here. They didn’t feel comfortable,” Samsuri says, saying that for most of the 36 years he’s worked at the park fewer than 50 people would visit on a weekend, and almost half that during the week. “I would love even more people to come here.” For Nadine Zamira, the founder of a public relations agency, Leaf Plus, that’s proof that Jakarta residents crave an alternative to shopping malls and trips outside the city. The city government is struggling to set aside space to meet a government imposed deadline of 30 per cent green space by 2020. If residents don’t make clear what they want in a park they may end up with same dreary spaces unsuitable for anyone but ghosts. But first residents need to know the parks even exist. “No one has really thought about this issue before.” says Zamira, who at 28 is already something of a veteran environmental campaigner, after a stint as Miss Earth Indonesia in 2009 and television appearances. “Communities need space for their activities.” In 2010, Zamira set up Leaf Plus -- an advertising agency


“It’s not top of mind to spend any part of your weekend at the park,” Zamira explains. “How do we bring the issue of town planning to mean something that’s more approachable to the public?” While Leaf Plus’s client for Hidden Park is the Ministry of Public Works, Zamira and her company had to work their contact lists to get the required permits to host the events, underlining how, for many, parks are unusable. “We had to go into it from different points. That created pressure,” Zamira recalls. “Imagine communities wanted to have an activity. It would be really hard.” Author and Professor Nirwono Joga, chairman of the Indonesian Landscape Architecture Study Group, says that of the 960 parks that the Jakarta Park Agency claims dot the city, most sufficiently lack scale, cleanliness or even basic facilities. Together with Green Map Jakarta which catalogues the city’s usable parks, he lists only 15 that are worthy of a visit, including Taman Langsat. His top picks include Kridaloka Senayan urban forest in the Senayan sport area, Srengseng Sawah park in West Jakarta across from Taman Anggrek Mall, also Menteng park, Suropati park and Lembang Lake park in Menteng area.

“A good park improves the local climate, reducing air pollution and flooding, promotes, good social interaction in public space, and ensures children have a safe place.” Zamira says Leaf Plus hopes to secure another contract for next year, when the agency aims to expand the campaign to five parks and opens spaces that potentially include the banks of the heavily polluted Ciliwung River. “The people (in Jakarta) are drunk on trying to be modern,” says Dila Hadju, a former school teacher and now staff member at Leaf Plus.“They forget that being modern also requires a good quality of life.” At Taman Langsat, 12-year-old Adira Machmud takes time out from frying up some of the spinach she’s harvested from the school’s plot. She dreams of becoming a doctor and reckons that when she’s not studying she’ll come back to the park. “It’s a nice place to sit down and relax,” she says. “I’m normally just home on my laptop.”  Jeff Hutton Jeff moved to Jakarta earlier this year after stints as a business reporter in Tokyo and Sydney. After more than a decade in newsrooms, he turned to freelance writing specializing on infrastructure, sustainable development and finance. http:// Follow Jeff on Twitter: @jeffreyhutton

Jakarta Expat · 5 December - 18 December 2012

Jakarta Expat 路 26 September - 9 October 2012


Jakarta Expat 路 5 December - 18 December 2012



Jakarta Expat · 26 September - 9 October 2012


A Call to the East – Visiting east Bali By Stephanie Brookes / Photos by David Metcalf

Away from the high-end tourist Mecca of Kuta and Seminyak there lays a hidden gem, waiting to be discovered. The natural beauty of East Bali – its highland region and stunning coastline is a pleasant surprise, where the culture and traditional way of life remains largely intact. amed

The natural beauty of East Bali and the deep religiosity of the Balinese, which fuses with the oceans, temples, mountains and ancient terraced rice fields, make for a call to the East. A real delight awaits you.

This sleepy little fishing village which hugs the easternmost peninsular of Bali is a delight. Low-key guesthouses for as little as $10 a night up to boutique accommodation can be found amongst the alfresco seafood restaurants and locally owned small bars. Rated one of Bali’s top snorkelling areas, the coral gardens are teeming with tropical fish. Swimming in the delightfully clean ocean, albeit brackish in colour, makes your skin feel very soft – the volcanic bath water is an added health bonus. The colour of the water is a result of the volcanic activity in the region. It is well worth rising early to view the mesmerising dawn sight of the colourful triangular-shaped sailing outriggers returning to the harbour with buckets over-brimming with hauls of wahoo, dogtooth tuna and mackerel.

mount agung Rising to the magnificent height of 3,142 metres Mount Agung is the most active volcano in Bali. Bali’s highest and holiest mountain and dwelling place of the Gods however, it is a challenge to climb. If you like trekking then you can choose from two starting points. The Besakih route takes you on the Western trail through the Besakih Temple, the largest temple complex in Bali, however it is the harder climb of the two. You can stay in a camp overnight, if you wish, and the final part of the ascent does involve a bit of scrambling, pretty much on all fours. Not for the feinthearted. An easier option, which involves a four-hour climb, starts at Pasar Agung, close to Selat village. The climb has you ascending the southern peak of Mount Agung. Guides are available at Besakih and Pura Pasar Agung.

Wreck Diving – usat Liberty Wreck A half-hour drive North of Amed brings you to one of the most popular dive sites in Bali. Tulamben Village is the home of the USAT Liberty wreck. It was a cargo ship torpedoed by the Japanese in World War II. You can see almost every species of fish at this dive site from pygmy seahorses to huge parrotfish. Because of its popularity, it is best to get there early in the morning, for optimum visibility. An added bonus is the early morning turtle sightings. For more information see

titra Gangga Water Palace A beautiful place to visit and take in the magical energy of ‘Old Bali’. An eleventiered fountain sits amongst carvings and statues and if you choose your time carefully (arrive before 8.00am) the peace 14

and calm and beauty of this extraordinary spiritual complex will inspire and delight you. The locals consider the springs of Titra Gangga holy and there is a delightful designated wading pool, and how often do you get the opportunity (which is encouraged) to take a spiritual bath? Ornate Balinese dragon statues, ponds with large golden carp, a large banyan tree, colourful tropical gardens and beautifully groomed pathways and bridges are some of the features of this restful spiritual unique temple complex.

sidemen Walter Spies (1895-1942), the renowned painter from Ubud, found his way to this delightful village, located at 1,400 feet on the slopes of Mt Agung. He found, what many people today still find here – a traditional way of Balinese life, inspirational scenery, beautiful terraced rice fields (which use the ancient Subak water system for irrigation) and a melding of kindred spirits. It is lovely to wander the quiet country lanes and take advantage of the many hiking trails and walks. There are many spiritual retreat centres and unique places to stay, which offer painting and cooking classes to Balinese Language lessons and if you love weaving, there are many skilful weavers amongst talented masters of Balinese literature and Hindu theology. Check out the Nirarta Centre for Living Awareness –

Besakih temple It is known as The Mother Temple by the Balinese Hindu and is a truly wondrous sight. The entire temple complex (over 1,000 years old) is comprised of 22 separate temples and with the backdrop of Mount Agung, it is a stunning pictorial vision you will not forget. Try and time your visit to coincide with a temple ceremony, as it will be alive with colour, prayer and festival atmosphere. This temple really is the temple of all temples in Bali and well worth the visit. It is best to get there before 9.00am (before the tourist buses arrive), as it is one of the biggest attractions in Bali. Be aware there are pesky hawkers and peddlers who will hound you, but don’t let that deter you from going. You must wear a sarong if there is a ceremony and if there is not you must at least wear a decorative sash. I would suggest getting one before you arrive. It is well worth the $5 fee to take an official guide. They speak excellent English, and will explain prayer rituals, show you how to pray and it will enhance your experience – plus they will keep the hawkers at bay. 

StePHAnie BrooKeS Stephanie is a global adventurous soul and her travels have taken her from Montana to Moscow and extensively through Asia. She lives between Jakarta and Brisbane and has over 30 articles published on Indonesian culture, ethnic diversity and travel hot spots. She has even been known to don a cone hat and work in the rice fields just to get a story.

Jakarta Expat · 5 December - 18 December 2012

Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012


Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012



Jakarta Expat­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012

personal tech & apps

Online Booking

The New Way to Book Your Travel Trips

By Juan G. Leysner provides independent travellers with information about what Indonesia has to offer with a particular focus on East Indonesia. This site is a great source of information on lesser visited areas such as Papua and Maluku, two of the most beautiful, diverse and unspoilt corners of the world.


et me start by dazzling you with some numbers. How do travellers use the web to search for hotels, flight information, tickets and other stuff? 69% will visit hotel sites,62% will visit airline websites, 54% will use search engines and 52% will use an Online Travel Agency (OTA). These days more travellers use mobile phones to search for travel information with 57% of business travellers using mobiles, compared to only 38% for leisure travellers. Use of home and office/work computers have dropped 10% since 2010 whereas smartphones have gained 11% in popularity as the tool of choice to search the web. More and more travellers increasingly turn to the smart phone and/or tablet to plan and book trips and holidays. Most of the online travel agents have recognized this trend and are consequently bringing native apps for Blackberry, iPhone and Android into the market, making sure that their mobile websites are not too difficult to see/read/navigate on the mobile device. Downloading of the pages on a mobile device is another deterrent to book online using your mobile. Hence web designers in Indonesia have an extra task to make sure that webpages for mobile are relatively small in size. Below you will find three rather new companies that will help you to search for a hotel, airline ticket or tourism package to book your end to end journey. All of them started as an online travel agent using the PC but they will provide native apps for smart phones in the near future. Every company is unique in the way they present their online booking system.

1. Go Indonesia ( is Indonesia’s first real online travel agent,

developed primarily for the Indonesian market and for Indonesia as a destination. On Go Indonesia you can book a wide selection of hotels in Indonesia online, and soon also hotels around the world. Hotel prices are conveniently displayed in the form of a table or matrix, which makes it very easy to compare prices for different hotels, as well as for different dates. You can also search for hotels on an interactive map, as well as through a convenient search menu that allows you to choose specific search criteria such as hotel facilities. To pay online offers a wide selection of payment options, from Visa and MasterCard credit cards, to internet banking such as KlikBCA and Mandiri Clickpay and through ATMs from BCA bank. All hotel reservations are confirmed instantly: you receivew confirmation and hotel voucher the moment you have paid online. Go Indonesia is a product of the Kaha Group, one of the largest and most reputable tour and travel companies. A BlackBerry application will soon come out and this will offer the same full services and convenience to book hotels through your BlackBerry.

2. Dusun Merapi (www. This is a unique adventure tourism portal that explores the uniqueness of Yogyakarta. Besides information on places to explore, Dusun Merapi also provides a personalization feature that allows visitors to create a specific tourism package in Yogyakarta. Using the “create your own package” feature, visitors can choose the destination places, hotels, duration (days), participant numbers, and transportation mode. Then, the system would automatically create the trip package for the visitor as required. Using this feature, anyone can go to any place. For example, a visitor may choose Jomblang cave and Offroad Lava Merapi as the destination, staying at Rumah Palagan guest house, using a Toyota Avanza vehicle with driver, for a three day period and four participants. Dusun Merapi creates the trip package and offers a special competitive price automatically. Visitors may do reservation directly or just save the simulation result. An Android app will be available in the first quarter of 2013 as well as a full English version of the site.

The site is operated by globe trotter Laszlo Wagner who has spent over 10 years travelling, studying and working in Indonesia with a particular love for Papua and Maluku where he visits on a regular basis. The site is constantly updated and includes comprehensive information and tips for travellers looking to visit Indonesia and East Indonesia in particular.

4. FlyMyWay ( Fly My Way (FMW) will provide a search, book and payment portal specifically for the domestic airline market. The founders and employees of FMW are experienced travel-industry professionals and passionate about the activities they will promote and offer. An opportunity for FMW’s success exists because the domestic tourism and travel industry is growing. Fly My Way is poised to take advantage of this growth and lack of competition with experienced staff, an excellent portal, and effective management and marketing. Prices will be competitive with the remainder of the market. Fly My Way is a result of people with a passion for travel and Indonesia. Based upon that passion, Fly My Way have created a system that will allow travellers, both in and outside Indonesia, to book and pay for any flight within the boundaries of Indonesia. The solution offered is a one stop shop where the potential traveller would be able to search, compare, - based upon their own criteria, such as price, budget or full services, to book and ultimately even pay for their trip. Native apps for Blackberry, iPhone and Android will be available in the first quarter of 2013. 

Juan G. Leysner Juan G. Leysner has lived and worked in Jakarta for over 10 years and is the founder of 2, Skyscanner is a leading global travel search site, providing instant online comparisons for millions of flights on over a thousand airlines, as well as car hire, hotels, holidays and insurance. With over 10 years experience and available in 27 different languages, Skyscanner is the travel site of choice for independent travellers all over the world. Skyscanner’s flexible search options mean you can browse prices across a whole month or even a year, allowing you to get the best deals. Bookings are direct with airlines or travel agents, so you get the lowest price with no extra fees added.


Jakarta Expat­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012

Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012


Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012



Jakarta Expat · 26 September - 9 October 2012


I’d Rather Be Playing Pool By Eamonn Sadler


ince I started the Jakarta Comedy Club in 2001, I have come to understand the comedy business quite well. I have studied the art of comedy closely, I think I understand the science of the “joke” or “gag”, and I think I know why people laugh at certain things and not at others. But even after all this time, there is still one thing I don’t understand; why do people heckle? I agree that if you don’t think the act on stage is funny you have the RIGHT to voice your opinion, like you would at a football match if your chosen team were playing badly, but in my opinion you need to get some serious professional help if you think you are going to win in a battle of wits against a professional wordsmith who has heard it all before AND has the advantage of a microphone. Shazia Mirza, a female Muslim comedian

from Pakistan who performed at the JCC last year, was interrupted during a show by a drunken sexist comment from a man sitting at the back of the room. Without missing a beat she said to the rest of the women in the audience “All men are pigs aren’t they girls? Especially this one... unfortnately I can’t eat pork.”

people, and they are easliy dealt with by a professional. However, Scottish comedian, Martin Moore told me about one audience comment from which he admitted he could not recover – probably because it was said in earnest and not meant as a heckle at all – and it resulted in the whole audience getting their money back.

men with a glint in his eye and a big smile on his face, waiting for a delayed reaction. Nothing. Then the deathly silence was broken by the creaking of a wooden chair as one of the straight-faced young men leaned over towards the other and said, “There used to be a pool table in here.” No coming back from that.

Young, geeky-looking American comedian, Bryson Turner was on stage starting a piece about relationships. He said, “I remember the first time I had sex...” and with perfect timing, during the silence in the short pause on the end of that sentence, a female member of the audience sitting right at the front said, “Yesterday?” The audience erupted into laughter in support of the heckler, and Bryson looked like he was lost for words. He waited for the laughter to subside, then with perfect timing responded with, “Glad you remember.” The audience erupted again, this time in support of the brilliant young comedian, and the woman was left red-faced and speechless.

He was appearing at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe (yes, that’s the correct name) early in his career and he had hired the pool room at the back of a pub in the city centre to use as a venue. The landlord of the pub removed the pool table to make space for the show and after a small stage had been set up there was room for only about 30 chairs. On his opening night, Martin had sold a grand total of two tickets for his show. At show time, two young men sat in the middle of the back row with arms crossed waiting for the show to begin, and Martin, eager to perform and needing the money and the experience, went on stage to do his act anyway. He braved his way through his introduction, did the build-up to his first gag and then hit them with the big punchline like a pro in the same way he would have if there had been 200 people in front of him. The room was completely silent. Martin stared at the two

If you are ever at a stand up comedy show and you feel the irresistible urge to heckle, first ask yourself these three simple questions: 1. Am I completely sober? 2. Am I funnier than the professional comedian on stage? 3. Do I have a microphone?

I have asked many comedians over the years to tell me the worst heckle they have ever received. Most of the examples they give are pretty standard, mostly involving drunk


I can almost guarantee that the answer to all those questions will be, ‘No’, but even if you answer ‘Yes’ to all three my advice is still ‘Don’t do it’ – you’re definitely wrong about the first one and therefore probably the other two. 

To find out more about live stand-up comedy in Indonesia please e-mail text or call 0821 1194 3084 or register at


the winner of last edition's competition is nigel B. from Harmoni. See you and a friend at our next Comedy Club! senD your entry By teXt to:

0811 999603

Answers: Steve Jobs and Bill Gates.

taken at Steve Jobs’ house in Palo Alto California in 1991.

AcroSS 1 Make less severe (8) 5 Confidence trick (4) 9 Mammal, giant or red (5) 10 Clothing (7) 11 Gratis (4,2,6) 13 Word designating hours (6) 14 Complain tearfully (6) 17 Genuineness (12) 20 Opening words of formal letter (4,3) 21 Become liable for (5) 22 Step in ladder (4) 23 Applied to a particular individual (8)

Can you name these two famous people?

doWn 1 Be depressed and listless (4) 2 Climbing plant's means of support (7) 3 Parmesan, often (6,6) 4 Price list - import tax (6) 6 Lucid (5) 7 Maternal (8) 8 Traditional British takeaway food (4,3,5) 12 Utensil for draining vegetables (8) 15 Papal hill and city (7) 16 Deprive of food (6) 18 Means of transport (5) 19 Spoken (4)

{ Answers in the next edition! }

*Answers for Edition 82

Across 1. Fools paradise 8. Prudent 9. Cramp 10. Shed 11. Accepted 13. Hot dog 14. Finite 17. Obdurate 19. Bent 21. Inane 22. Moisten 24. Get in on the act down 1. Fop 2. Opulent 3. Seek 4. Attack 5. Accredit 6. Inapt 7. Expedient 10. Schooling 12. Bourgeon 15. Inertia 18. Draft 20. Wish 23. Net

This Edition’s Quiz: THE TRAVEL QUIZ scan the barcode and answer the 10 questions correctly for a chance to win a voucher worth rp.300,000 from face jakarta! closing date january 8th. 18

congratulations to risiana limuria for winning a rp.300,000 voucher for cazbar!

Jakarta Expat · 5 December - 18 December 2012


Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012

the expat golfer

The Downswing: Think Legs, Not Arms! By Ken Runyon

Golf really is a game of the mind, only 30% physical and 70% mental. Of course this is the case in competitive golf, but it is equally true both on and off the practice tee. Even now as I continue to perfect my own golf swing, it is often the work I do between my ears that pays the most in dividends. In fact, I would argue that simply hitting range balls, without purpose or intent, can be counterproductive. Let’s take a break from that bucket of range balls and engage the mind. Have you ever stopped to consider how the golf club should be delivered down from the top of the backswing? I mean exactly how this should happen: what parts of the body are involved and when their part is called upon. You really should because this is the most critical part of the golf swing; executed correctly and happy days! Performed incorrectly and disaster waits as your ball slices out of bounds or is pulled left into a watery grave. Yes, we are talking about the downswing, how it is initiated and the proper sequence that will ensure the desired result. The move from the top of the backswing to the beginning of the downswing is what Hogan called “the crossroads of golf ”. Ben Hogan, the greatest ball striker of all time, felt this move to be the most important part of the swing. Most people do it all wrong. They start with the upper body, hands, arms and shoulders. The correct way to start, of course, is with the lower body. Starting the downswing with the legs is the only correct way. Sure, you can get away with doing it wrong; there are many fine players who have terrible swings, but why not learn the best way possible? This lower body movement, however is not a natural instinct and must be trained. It is initially very difficult to keep the arms and hands passive in the golf swing, so it will take some time to create the “muscle memory” needed. I recommend that you try a “swing thought” during your next practice session. Think LEGS! Leave the arms back as you swing and let the lower body do most of the work. Start the downswing with the lower body, legs and hips, and your game will no doubt improve! Until next time, hit ‘em straight! 

Ken Runyon Ken is a former Caddy now living a Cinderella Story in Jakarta. You can find him on Facebook at Accel Junior Golf Academy or email at

Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012



Jakarta Expat · 26 September - 9 October 2012

a month-long charity moustache growing movement meant to change the face of men's health. Donations and proceeds from the raucous afternoon moustache auction and raffle were donated to Yayasan Anak Cancer Indonesia and LIVESTRONG, bringing resources to bear in Indonesia and supporting cutting-edge research in the United States. Next year the Movember group plans to do things up even bigger, currently contemplating a poker tournament or something involving stuffed buffalos and nine irons. If anyone is looking to get involved, either as a month-long moustache farmer or sponsor, please contact

ARTS & EXhibiTioNS

Ken Pattern exhibition @ four Seasons Hotel Jakarta. Wed, 28 nov 2012 - fri, 15 feb 2013 location: Jalan H. r. rasuna Said, Jakarta 12920, indonesia For more info call The Gift Shop (021) 252 3456 ext. 7140.

buSiNESS & NETWoRKiNG bAZAAR & ShoPPiNG internations Jakarta christmas 2012. fri, 14 dec 2012 location: tBA on rSvP We have negotiated a special InterNations drinks package for the event as follows:  * Rp. 200,000 for Albatross Members * Rp. 300,000 for Basic Members * Rp. 350,000 for non members and walk ins RSVP: jakarta-expats

ANNouNcEmENT in your face, cancer! Mo Bros and Mo Sistas packed Amigos Mega Kuningan on Saturday (Dec 1) to celebrate Movember,


cnc Joyful X’mas Bazaar fri, 14 dec 2012 - Sun, 23 dec 2012. location: Atrium lobby, la codefin, Jl. Kemang raya Jakarta Selatan Booth info 08121865659 / 0811194179 Email:

John van der Sterren exhibition @ duta fine Arts foundation. Wed, 14 nov 2012 thu, 20 dec 2012. location: Jl. Kemang utara 55A - Jakarta This important Exhibition celebrates the 20th Anniversary of John Van Der Sterren’s career as an artist in Indonesia  For more info:  Phone: +6221 799 0226 Fax: +6221 719 7528 Email:

Jakarta Expat · 5 December - 18 December 2012


Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012

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automotive Toyota Fortuner 2011 for sale due to relocation to Hong Kong. New model bought in Oct 2011. Perfect condition and driven less than 6,000 km. Asking price IDR 390 Million. Contact by email: or sonu.

2011 Terios very low kms. As NEW. Terios TX 2011, 2,500km. Urgent sale reduced from Rp180 jt to Rp 175jt. Jakarta registration, car now in Medan. Expat leaving for Australia. info: Botha.Pete@gmail. com

For yearly rent at Raffles Hills, Cibubur, Land 98sqm, building 125sqm, 5Airconditioner, 3 bedrooms + 1 maid's room. Fully furnished, Fully Wallpapered, water heater, washer, nice view,secured, 900m from exit toll Cibubur.for rent Rp80 million/

Lombok. Luxury beachfront villa. For holiday rental. 3 Suites each with k.S bed, Spa bath, tropical shower. Wi-fi, cable television. English speaking staff. Promo rates available. Ph: +6281246400246.

Looking for English speaking nanny for job in Jakarta. RP100,000 per day. Please send CV with work reference, photo and availability or sms 0852 565 88458

Single mature female (33's old), official working experienced in Management/ Admin Specific Functionary, employed at Government Of Indonesia project and any private sectors e.g; plantation, garment industry, automotive finance. Need the employment as Personal Assistant to Manager / Head Officer wherever will be placed in Indonesia. English adequately and good willing to learn more specifically, so prefer works for a good mature, wise employer (Male / Lady). Available to work immediately under legal consignment letter with local law basis. For further info, contact to +62-821-1387-8435 / +62-821-8237-8982. email:

Familiar with Jakarta traffic, good knowledge of Jakarta metropolitan area roads. email mahdi.

For Sale Mercy C200 Kompressor 2008 good condition 08111881214

property Houses for rent at Kemang, Cipete, Cilandak, Pejaten Barat, Pondok Indah. Big garden, S’pool, Complex, 4-5 bedrooms, U$ 2000 - U$ 7000. Phone: 0816859551 081287488717 e-mail:

Villa Damee. Beautiful 3 bedroom Villa located in a peaceful,quiet and serene setting 10 minutes from Ubud. This is the real Bali authentic experience as the villa is situated in the Pakerisan Valley and surrounded by ancient temples. Newly listed the owners are willing to offer special rates for Kitas holders.Can be rented as one or three bedrooms,so ideal for couples or a family. Please contact Dave Metcalf at info@villadamee. com or visit the website for more info

For Rent, 1 Unit Apartment at the 18th Tower Residence, South Tower Unit, 33rd floor, Unit I Taman Rasuna. It is 1 BR,Fully furnished. Free internet and TV cable from First Media until the middle of January 2013. For further information contact my agent: Indar 085695690989.

Welcome to Villa Gamrang. Experience our hospitality and the complete solitude of your own beach house. Villa Gamrang is designed to offer guests a wonderful and luxurious escape from Jakarta. It feels like your private boutique hotel, natural surroundings, stylish design, several terrace’s, sea view, 8.000 m2 garden, swimming pool, 3 bedrooms with bathrooms, Internet, flat screen, DVD, complete kitchen. Enjoy our in-house catering. Separate guesthouse with additional sleeping quarters and bathroom. Most of our guests visit us again. Location, Cisolok coastline West Java, 4 hours’ drive from Jakarta. Attractive prices starting from IDR 1,150,000 per night including taxes and friendly staff to assist you. Reservations or just mail us at

jobs Looking for Work Spanish IT Software Engineer (J2EE, Adobe Flex, Alfresco Document Management) living in Jakarta, with more than 10 years experience is looking for a job. Last 5 years working in Indonesia developing IT projects for Indonesian Government Institution such as: Badan Pertanahan Nasional, Badan Kepegawaian Negara, Lembaga Ketahanan Nasional. Please contact at

Jakarta Expat­­­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012

Looking for English speaking nanny for job in Jakarta. RP100,000 per day. Please send CV with work reference, photo and availability or sms 0852 565 88458

Stunning Cliffside Villa in Bali for Rent English speaking helper/nanny (20-35 years old) required in Dharmawangsa area. Live in/Live out with family of 4 (infant and 3 y/o). Top dollar paid for an English speaker (salary negotiable). Text details to 08111846367

I highly recommend Pak Chairuman to anyone who would like to learn Bahasa Indonesia. His technical knowledge of both the English and Indonesian languages is of a very high standard, but more than this he is also a very good educator. He is able to explain the concepts behind his lesson in a very clear and understandable way. Pak Chairuman is very reliable, and does not skip lessons unexpectedly. He also has a very soft and gentle nature, making it a pleasurable experience to learn from him. For all of these reasons I highly recommend Pak Chairuman, especially to people who may be a little intimidated by the thought of learning a new and strange language - Recommendation by Melanie Thompson. If you are interested to have a Bahasa Indonesia lesson, please call Pak Chairuman 08121037466.

Located on a quiet country hillside cliff overlooking Benoa Bay and Nusa Penida, 15km from Bali International Airport, this villa is an excellent holiday hideaway to spend with your family, friends or loved ones. The 800sqm villa has three bedrooms, sits on 1,500sqm land among exclusive villas with a breathtaking view over the cliff in Jimbaran Hill, Bali. Fully equipped with gym, pool and children's playground.

Rumah Bangka 11

2 Lantai,1 ruang makan/ruang keluarga,1 ruang tamu, 2 kamar mandi, 1 toilet tamu, 3 kamar tidur, 1 kamar pembantu +1 kamar mandi pembantu, garasi 2 mobil, space untuk cuci + jemur, SHM, listrik: 1300 watt, kondisi baru, minimalist style.

• Asking price IDR 2,600,000,000.

Luxury villa for sale

A luxury freehold villa for sale in Canggu captures the elegance of the surrounding area and provides a magnificent home-from-home in this remarkable country. Built in a dramatic Balinese ironwood villa set amongst emerald rice fields.

• Asking price US $1,900,000

Are you a Property owner? are you looking for property?

Let us help you! Contact us at:

Editor(s) needed. *Part-time/ work from home. *Good English, // 08131 772 2271 21


Place a Classified Ad and get results!

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preferably native English speaker with goods report writing skills. *Economics background an advantage. Please send your resume to

Available freelance nanny for evening and weekend. My number 081288064551

vacancies Family living in Dharmawangsa apartment looking for an experienced helper, who can speak English, enjoys cooking and interacting with children. Live in or live out. Please call : 08 19 08 28 50 00

‘Persian speakers required. Full time or part time. Contact’

Ideally, we would like to employ someone who has been with another expat family. So if you are heading home this Dec/Jan and would like to help find your existing staff another job, please contact me at

Jakarta Real Estate Solutions, Jakarta’s premiere expat housing specialist is now hiring property agents. This is a commission

only job with unlimited earning potential. Ability to speak Indonesian and English is required. Experienced agents preferred but we will train new agents. Please send CV to for a confidential interview.

Teachers needed for Primary & Secondary English, Mathematics and Science tutoring in Pantai Indah Kapuk. Must be native/ fluent English speaker. Send CV, or call Nathalie at 0818899800.


INTERNATIONAL, DOMESTIC, LOCAL, OFFICE MOVING, STORAGE ... Call Francois 085 8838 98678, email:, or Lanny 081 3166 61874, email: “RELOCATION MADE EASY”

Classifieds are still FREE! Send in your classifieds to Next issue deadline: 12 December 2012

Traveling? Let us help you! As your partner in business, we aspire to provide service standards that are faster, more accurate and more reliable. Contact us now to assist you for all your travel needs. PT. Amazing World Explorer T&T. Kemang Square, 3rd floor unit III-12. Jl. Kemang Raya no. 5. Phone: 7179 4722 - awe.

Discover colorful magic at Crayola Store Indonesia. Shop online at www. for great savings on your pre-holiday shopping. 15% off on all Color Wonder items. 10% off on all Crayon items. Shop more and save up to 30% off! Promo ends December 15 2012.

Hi! You will be able to speak Bahasa Indonesia soon!! Easy and fast method. Contact me: goodheart9192@hotmail. com or 082119797117

Teaching Bahasa Indonesia for jakarta expats .You can contact me on 085697692508 Need flexible courses? Want to study privately at home, office

Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Jakarta Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 15.000 copies bi weekly.

or in a class? We open Bahasa Indonesia class at the American Club. Private classes also available for Bahasa / English/ Mandarin. Qualified teachers & excellent materials 021-68888246/081385590009 sibchool@sibschool. com,

ARE YOU IN PAIN? WANT TO FEEL BETTER? At our wellness center, Lifestyle Chiropractic, our American trained professionals have helped 1000s of practice members: improve sleep, decrease back/ neck pain, eliminate headaches, when all else failed. even avoid getting sick/flu with better immunity, more energy, improved breathing, less brain fog, decrease stress! Just to name a few. Call now and mention the Jakarta Expat to receive 50% off initial consult and first treatment. www. 08111041881 / 021 7203769

NO MORE BORING PRESENTATIONS !!! increase sales and skyrocket your career now with help from Jakarta's public

Jakarta Expat­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012 • Personal classifieds : free of charge | 50 words max • Commercial classifieds : Rp. 100,000 | 0 - 50 words : Rp. 200,000 | 50 - 100 words • Property listings are considered as Commercial. • For adding an image / company logo in our printed issue another Rp. 150,000 needs to be charged.


speaking and presentation skills coach Peter Miller. Make your way now to for your first point of Contact + a free offer to receive the SECRETS OF THE GREAT COMMUNICATORS eBook (worth $47). Pete Miller: 08121873 9888

Have the Coolest Party With BINTANG PARTY EXPRESSWe deliver and serve Bintang & Heineken Draught beer to your door, just email to : party_ or dial 759 24611 or 0878 7592 1598

Need help in finding services and getting answers to your questions as a newcomer? We’re here to help! Our seasoned expats answer thousands of questions each year from newcomers to provide advice and direction in solving the new challenges they face.

Check out Living in Indonesia, A Site for Expatriates

The best tantric massage in town for relaxing, come to your place, hotel, and apartment. Please call: 085850343351

Medical evacuation health & life insurance. Let us diagnose your needs. Contact Paul Beale, mobile: +62 816 137 0663, office: 021-5220990 E:

others "Native Instruments KORE 2 audio production controller & software package. Google for description. Rp.2,500,000. Email"

GOLF. Ping G15 Irons 4,5,6,7,8,9,PW like new with Ping Golf Bag, Rp. 4,900,000. Callaway Bobby Jones Irons (blades), 3,4,5,6,7,8,9,PW, Rp. 700,000. Ben Hogan Apex Forged Irons (blades) 4,5,6,7,8,9,PW. RP 2,500,000. Semanggi Area. H/P 0858 8546 2962. E:mma.moodi@ Mirza Mahmood Ahmad. H/P +1 703 627 1995. Skype: mirzaahmad

Bicycle for sale. Trek 7000 21-gear bike, blue, with kick stand and rack. In very good condition. Rp.3.5m. Please contact Richard Codrington -


Jakarta Expat­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012

Jakarta Expat · 26 September - 9 October 2012

Place a Classified Ad and get results!

Send in your classifieds to

clASSifiedS Are Still free! Send in your classifieds to Next issue deadline: 12 december 2012

Kelurahan Sawah Lama, Ciputat, Tangerang Selatan.

FOR SALE teak table with marble top and three teak chairs. Rp.2 juta for all. Viewing and pick up in Kuningan. if interested.

USED original branded Men shoes, ties, suits, shirts. Ferrag, zegna, canali, whole lot in great condition. 0818835367 Fully customizable furniture with a modern, minimalist, Scandinavian twist, made out of solid recycled teakwood. Easier monitoring and faster delivery as workshop is in Jakarta area. Email: bagus@ , Phone: 0818 068 558 17, Gallery Address: Jl. KH. Dewantoro No. 2, Kampung Sawah,

Special offer! Private Diving Cruises (6days/5nights) on a traditional buginese schooner in Komodo. Minimum 3 persons, maximum 8 persons. Price starting at $ 160 person/day. Departure every Wednesday. For more information contact: info@divingcruisesambasi.

Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Jakarta Expat! Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 15.000 copies bi weekly.

Fancy candle holders on SALE for Home Decoration, Diwali & Christmas! Retail and Wholesale available! Call 0855-9000999 for further information.

Now available at wholesale prices! From wine and spirit glasses to decanters and vases, KROSNO offers hundreds of imported fine glassware products at competitive



• Personal classifieds : free of charge | 50 words max • Commercial classifieds : Rp. 100,000 | 0 - 50 words : Rp. 200,000 | 50 - 100 words • Property listings are considered as Commercial. • For adding an image / company logo in our printed issue another rp. 150,000 needs to be charged.

prices. Visit to view our entire catalog with offers up to 50% off. Home delivery available on some orders.

We need female models for our fitting session that is done once-two times in a week. Payment will be done twice per month. The product includes Underwear, Swimwear & Outerwear. The face will not be captured in the fitting session. Requirement: - Size 75D/80C. Minimum height 160 cm.- Body weight is normal and proportional. Send your data and body pictures to

PERSoNALS Good looking Expat - 40 years old is looking for 'FUN' dates with attractive (independent) Indonesian woman. No money involved. E-mail to: Easy going mixed race couple would like to meet like-minded curious couples/ singles for adult fun times in Jakarta. Email us at Fun times never last, but memories are everlasting. Only a few can get their fantasies coloured here. Drop your mail to mypillow2000@gmail. com if you think you are gorgeous.

"Korg R3 digital Synthesizer. Google for description. 3 months old in box. Rp.4,000,000. Email mitch@"

38 foot Uniflite. Good sea-keeping boat for pleasure or work. 2 forward cabins, shower-toilet, x 350SHP Detroits professionally rebuilt. Onan 220V 6kva. Full AC. Well equipped incl radar fish finder, rubber dinghy and outboard. Full legal current indonesian papers. kunang2000@ - 081314002059

Buy and plug in our electricity saver at your home and save your electricity billing up to 35% each month. Price Rp. 250,000,-. It works. Question or order: 0855 9901266 /

Jakarta Expat · 5 December - 18 December 2012



Jakarta Expat­­ · ­26 September - 9 October 2012


Jakarta Expat­­ · ­5 December - 18 December 2012

Jakarta Expat - issue 83 - Travel  

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership.