the Beijinger - Oct09 by Jackie Woo

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

2 the Beijinger / October 2009

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

ECOLOGICAL ECONOMY

生态经济(英文版) 主管单位云南出版集团公司主办单位云南教育出版社出版生态经济杂志社社长李安泰主编高晓铃地址昆明市环城西路 609 号云南新闻出版大楼 4 楼邮政编码 650034 国内统一刊号 CN53-1197/F 国际标准刊号 ISSN1673 – 0178 Editorial Planning Manager Lisa Liang Deputy Editorial Planning Manager Jonathan White Art and Explore Editorial Planner Madeleine O'Dea In Print & Cinema and Ecology Editorial Planner Mary Dennis Dining Editorial Planner Tom O'Malley Style Editorial Planner Belle Zhao Stage Editorial Planner Cecily Huang Associate Editorial Planner Wang Ge Copy Editor Lilly Chow Visual Planning Joey Guo Contributors Jerry Chan, Henry Church, Jennifer Conrad, Christopher Dennis, Peter Fries, Minfong Ho, Matt P. Jager, Steven Jiang, Kaiser Kuo, Eileen Wen Mooney, Laura Morgan, Jessica Pan, Edward Ragg, Pete Reilly, Paul Ryding, Iain Shaw, Sophie Tsai, Fongyee Walker, Alice Wang, Echo Yu, Sheila Zhao Advertising Agency True Run Media 全国广告总代理 : 深度体验国际广告 ( 北京 ) 有限公司北京广告代理 : 北京爱见达广告有限公司地址 : 北京市朝阳区建国路 93 号万达广场 10 号楼 2801 室邮政编码 : 100022 电话 : 5820 7700, 5820 7100 传真 : 5820 7895 Room 2801, Building 10, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Road Chaoyang District, Beijing 100022 General Manager Michael Wester Business Development Toni Ma Editorial Director Jerry Chan Directory Editorial Planning Iain Shaw, Jiang Jun Art Director Susu Luo Designers Helen He, Yuki Jia, Li Xing, Echo Xie, Li Yang HR Manager Eileen Huang HR Assistant Alice Huang Reception Judy Zhao Marketing Manager Françoise Chu Marketing Assistant Victoria Yang Marketing Intern Clarisse Lau Finance Manager Alex Wang Accounting Teresa Tian, Tracy Ye, Lisa Ji System Administrator Frank Zhang IT Manager James Wang Web Managing Editor Dan Edwards Web Editor Jingjing Luan, Coco Kou Photographers Judy Zhou, Song Yang Sales Manager Claire Tang Assistant Sales Manager Alex Ai Senior Account Executives Elena Damjanoska, Emma Zhuang Account Executives Lynn Cui, Sally Fang, Gloria Hao, Sophia Zhou Sales Assistants Phoebe Li, Ophelia Ren, Maggie Sun, Angela Zheng Distribution Jenny Wang, Victoria Wang General Inquiries: 5820 7700, 5820 7100 Distribution 5820 7700 Sales & Marketing 5820 7700 Fax: 5820 7895 E-mail: info@truerun.com; sales@truerun.com; editor@thebeijinger.com; distribution@truerun.com; listings@truerun.com; marketing@truerun.com

Complimentary copy, not for sale. 部分非卖品，仅限赠阅

4 the Beijinger / October 2009

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CLASSIFIEDS

SPORTS & FITNESS

STAGE

EXPLORE

IN PRINT & CINEMA

LIVE MUSIC

ART

BARS & CLUBS

DINING

STYLE

ECOLOGY

CONTENTS LETTERS & NOTES ................................................................................................. 6 WHAT’S HAPPENING: OCTOBER ..................................................................... 8 CITY SCENE .......................................................................................................... 10

PARTY LIKE A Baijiu drinker CLUBHOUSE Kid Koala’s crazy capers

We ﬁnd out how Beijingers take risks in Talk About Town, then show you where they did it in Scene & Heard. Plus, your chance to win two tickets to see Kid Koala and a spa gift package from the St. Regis Beijing

REVIEWS 8 Eye Spy, Da Ya Band, Kidney, Muse, Tinchy Stryder, Ingrid Michaelson, Arctic Monkeys and Matisyahu FEATURE Modern Sky Festival Q&A The (International) Noise Conspiracy and Skid Row

ECOLOGY

The latest on China’s renewables, an interview with Clear World Energy’s Alex Westlake, and the greenest of green energy sources: algae

COVER FEATURE ............................................................................18 A look at Beijing’s past, present and future: 2000 to 2020

LIVE MUSIC

ARTS & CULTURE ...................... 75

78 ART

3 TO SEE Antony Gormley at Galleria Continua, He Yunchang at Galerie Urs Meile and Zhang Xiaogang at Pace Beijing FEATURE “Cou Huo” celebrates the makeshift

18 STYLE

IN PRINT & CINEMA

...................................................................................................................... 25

TAKE 5 “Made in China” moisturizers HOT BUYS Autumn blazers WHAT’S NEW: SHOPS Lazy Sunday, Katiexu.com, Ruoshuitang Umbrella and Quan Spa at Marriott City Wall INSPECT A GADGET Sony Walkman X series – a touchscreen mp3 player FASHION FIVE-OH Can you kick it? No, you can’t

FEATURE “Main melody” ﬁlms go box ofﬁce REVIEWS Good Cats (好猫), The Time Traveler’s Wife, Water Flows Below Time and Hotel on the Corner of Bitter and Sweet

STAGE FEATURE The Beijing International Theater Experience’s Wit 3 TO SEE SF Ballet, Zhang Yimou’s Turandot and Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra

EXPLORE...................................... 89

DINING ................................................................................................................... 33 TAKE 5 Patriotic dishes WHAT’S NEW: RESTAURANTS Face Bar’s El Wajh, Peppes, Orange Tree Bistro, Swagat, Class by Stephanie, Luga’s Baan Thai, Argo and Macau Taste ALLEYWAY GOURMET Doornail dumplings, Taipei fried chicken and baked sesame buns BEIJING EATS Old-timey snacks at Houhai GRAPE PRESS Vin de Chine CHEF’S SELECTION Bertrand Combe of Brasserie Flo shares his choices Q&A Master Cheng on cooking for Mao LUNCH IN TRANSLATION Is it chilli in here? Duojiao yutou brings the pickled peppers

NIGHTLIFE............................................................................................................. 57 BARS & CLUBS TAKE FIVE Cocktails peculiar to China WHAT’S NEW: BARS & CLUBS Club Glen, Champagne Bar, The Brick, Maison Camus, G Bar, Ben Bar, Decolete and e.a.t.

FEATURE Shaoshan, Mao’s hometown CITYLITE Wuhan

SPORTS & FITNESS .................. 97 TAKE FIVE Sports China “invented” FEATURE The rise of tennis

HEALTH & COMMUNITY AND CLASSIFIEDS ........................... 103 ICH BIN EIN BEIJINGER Sounds like Chinese

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

LETTERS & NOTES FROM THE EDITOR

talented photographer and dear friend of this magazine passed away recently. Luna Zhang died in the early morning of September 18. She was 38. If you ever met Luna, you would have been astonished to know her age. She had a youthful energy, a chirpy and wide-eyed way of talking, and a bubbly laugh that radiated an eternal innocence. Yet at the same time, she was also tall and graceful, with dignified cheekbones and poignant eyes, and walked into rooms commanding attention. Luna liked to eat good things, like steak and chocolate. She liked good music too, like jazz and reggae. She was one of the first people I had come to know when I first arrived in Beijing in the summer of 2007. At the time, I was the editor of tbjkids (now beijingkids); Luna shot many of our covers and features. Prior to that, she had worked intimately with tbj for many years, and even served as the wedding photographer for our editorial director. But Luna was also a highly sought-after commercial photographer with assignments that took her all over China – and a documenter of Beijing’s music scene, making many of the portraits seen in circulation today. Some of these musicians – Long Shen Dao, Yaksa, Muma, Miserable Faith – held a benefit concert for Luna last June at Yugong Yishan. That night, approximately RMB 25,000 was raised – RMB 9,000 in ticket sales, the rest in donations – to allow Luna to receive much-needed surgery that would address a clogged blood vessel. The procedure did not, however, tackle the larger problem at hand, which was the need for a new liver. And so a second effort began last month to help raise more funds. This new drive would also help Luna accomplish one of her life’s dreams: to have an exhibition of her work. Two exhibitions of Luna’s work will be taking place this month: one at Yugong Yishan, running until October 10, and another at the Modern Sky Festival (October 4-7). Luna will not be here to see them through. But I am certain, despite having struggled immensely over the past six months, that in the end she was able to find some comfort in knowing her work would be exhibited, and that all money raised through sales of her photographs would assist her grieving family. If you happen to be in either of these places in the coming weeks, take a moment to stop and look at the powerful images Luna was able to capture in her brief lifetime. If any of them happen to move you, purchase one – not only because doing so will help to ease the many burdens her family now faces – but also because it will help someone who was too young to die, live on.

ON THE WEB Food Fight OK, foodies, here’s your chance to let off some critical steam. This month tbj launches TheBeijinger.com’s “Food Fight.” Each week we’ll pick a category amongst the top voted restaurants, cafes and bars by our website users. Then it’s over to YOU. We’ll give you one week to post a review according to our selected category. You can agree or disagree with our readers’ picks, review a place that’s never been reviewed before, or post as many reviews as you like. At the end of each week, we’ll award a prize to the best post and feature it on our blog, and possibly in the magazine as well. Logon to the www.thebeijinger.com/blog to post your review.

Let them eat cake (and review it)

GIVETH AWAY Win a Remede Amenity luxury spa gift package from the St. Regis Beijing, plus two tickets to see Kid Koala on October 29 by correctly answering this month’s Trivia Travails (p12).

For more on Kid Koala, see Clubhouse, p62.

Be the ﬁrst person to spot this month’s Bogus Ad and win two RMB 388 vouchers for Long Island Massage & Spa. E-mail your answer to marketing@thebeijinger.com

Lisa Liang Managing Editor

Photographer Mary Dennis and designer Susu Luo combined efforts to create this month’s Beijing subway-themed cover and feature. For more, see p18.

Luna Zhang, self-portrait (circa 2008)

6 the Beijinger / October 2009

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

WHAT’S HAPPENING 2

SUN

MON

TUE

WED

1 6

THU

San Francisco Ballet America’s pioneering ballet company performs Swan Lake and other works. See 3 to See, p85. Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 180-1,680. 7.30pm. Poly Theatre (6500 1188 ext 5126)

The 2009 Modern Sky Music Festival

Eko Nugroho Solo Exhibition

Part local and part international (like these guys, British Sea Power). See Feature, p72. Chaoyang Park (6506 5409)

Final day to see Nugroho’s shadowplay. Pékin Fine Arts (5127 3220)

The ruthless princess riddles at the Bird’s Nest. See 3 to See, p85. Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 1803,800. 7.30pm. National Stadium (8437 2992/2993)

13 New Hope Charity Concert

Last chance to see disturbing oil paintings of the human animal. Platform China (6432 0169)

Huang Shaofeng and friends raise money for orphans through rock. RMB 100, RMB 70 (advance). 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711)

Bernie’s Lounge

Dutch jazz blends afro-beats and Latin vibes. RMB 50. 10pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711)

25 Dawanggang Band, Xiao He Experimental folkies go Uygur and Tibetan. RMB 60, RMB 50 (advance, students). 9pm. The Star Live (6425 5677)

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Opera: Turandot

Jin Shan: Naked Ape

14 Freshly Ground South African folk rock with jazz and blues. RMB 100, RMB 70 (advance). 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711)

Kiri Te Kanawa Solo Recital The Maori soprano sings works by Mozart, Strauss and others. Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 180-880. 7.30pm. NCPA Concert Hall (6655 0000)

Jess Meider An album release party for the acoustic folk singer. RMB 30. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711)

Centro Turns Six

Film: The Doors

Kid Koala

Join Big City Beat for a ﬁve-night party. Ends on Oct 31. Free. 9pm. Centro (6561 8833)

Oliver Stone’s homage to the ’60s rock group. Free (includes popcorn). 8pm. Obiwan (8322 1231)

Turntablism done right. See Clubhouse, p62. RMB 50, RMB 30 (advance). 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711)

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OCTOBER

2 4

FRI Skid Row

SAT

Legendary rockers roll through town. See Q&A, p74. RMB 290-690. 8pm. The Star Live (6425 5677)

China Open Superstars take center court. See Feature, p100. RMB 502,000. National Tennis Center, www.chinaopen.com.cn

10 Opera: Macbeth Verdi’s classic opens the Beijing Music Festival and Symphony Concert Season. RMB 50-180. 7.30pm. Poly Theatre (6500 1188 ext 5126)

17 Monokino Former Cobra member returns with an electro rock vengeance. RMB 50. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711)

Film: Early Documentaries of Kieslowski Before Three Colors and the Decalogue, the Polish director honed his craft with these ﬁlms. RMB 30 (includes a drink). 7.30pm. CNEX (8721 5576)

The Midi Festival Tenth Anniversary Brain Failure and more say cheers to ten years of Midi Festivals. See Music events, p74. 706 Factory House (5130 5569)

31 Beijing Guoan vs. Hangzhou Greentown Will our boys in green be champions? Tickets at 5128 8888 or 6551 4566. RMB 30-100. 3.30pm. Workers’ Stadium (6501 6655)

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

ity CScene

SCENE & HEARD

Acupuncture Records' Second Anniversary Party on Sep 5 at Lan Club. Photos courtesy of Acupuncture Records

Vogue China’s star-studded Fashion Night Out on Sep 11, as part of Vogue’s “Global Celebration of Fashion” event. Photos courtesy of Butterfly PR

The press conference of the 16th Beijing International Book Fair on Sep 2 at Instituto Cervantes. Photos courtesy of the Spanish Ministry of Culture.

Brasserie Flo celebrated their tenth anniversary on Sep 9. Photos courtesy of Brasserie Flo Beijing

The search for the first official Beach Bikini Girl took place at Block 8 on Sep 4. Photos courtesy of Block 8

ie star Aaron Kwok was greeted by eral Manager Evan Pavlakis on his arrival etrus French Restaurant in Legendale Hotel ng. Photo courtesy of Legendale Hotel

Raffles' John Spooner and Catherine Lee greet Luxembourg Ambassador Carlo Krieger, Swedish Minister Mattias Lentz and his wife. Photo courtesy of Raffles Beijing

10 the Beijinger / October 2009

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Charlie Dang, general manager of The Westin Beijing Financial Street, welcomes former Prime Minister of Canada Brian Mulroney. Photo courtesy of The Westin Beijing Financial Street

Link Club Beijing at the Ascott International’s “Bewitched Wife” event at Ascott Beijing’s 380sqm Penthouse Premier serviced residence on Aug 26. Photo courtesy of Ascott Beijing

TALK ABOUT TOWN

Risky Business

Is danger your middle name? Living in China can turn an everyday activity – crossing the road, catching the bus – into a perilous pursuit. And that’s not even the half of it. tbj sent Laura Morgan out to ﬁnd out what kind of dicey shenanigans Beijingers get themselves into.

“

I got a sleeper bus from Shenzhen one night. The driver was driving down the wrong side of the road and swerving at the last minute to miss cars. He nearly hit someone.

”

Timothy Saey, 26, businessman

“

I’ve driven a car in China. That was pretty scary.

”

Shaun Nath, 24, consultant

“

I’ve had a few accidents when cycling in Beijing. Once I managed to get sandwiched in between a lamp post and a car.

”

Martin Roos, 26, model scout

“

I would say just standing in a queue in McDonald’s and trying to get served!

23, Johanna Zum Felde, intern (Oxfam)

“

Learning an American drinking game called the 99 game.

” “

PHOTOS: LAURA MORGAN

”

Xavier Cormier, 32, lawyer After drinking in a bar, I tried to get a taxi home, but a policeman I met at the bar said he’d drive me instead. When I got in the car, the policeman was too drunk himself and handed

Tom Sampson, 20, student

me the keys to drive, and so I drove.

”

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

PEKING PIC

“I thought we were having text.” Photo by Ding Dawei Got a Peking Pic? Send it to editor@thebeijinger.com for RMB 200 vouchers to spend at 1001 Nights Restaurant.

TRIVIA TRAVAILS

Each month we run a series of questions based on the content of the issue. Answer them all correctly, and win free stuff! This month’s prize is two tickets to see Kid Koala at Yugong Yishan (Oct 29) plus a Remede Amenity luxury spa gift package from the St. Regis Beijing. For more info, see Clubhouse, p62. E-mail your answers to editor@thebeijinger.com.

1. What three items would DJ Kid Koala use to solve the ﬁnancial crisis? a) a wine glass, a celery stalk and a blade of grass b) the Bible, the Quran and the I Ching c) a stapler, a glue gun and a ballpoint pen d) a tape deck, a microphone and an mp3 player

5. Which punk band from Wuhan performed at the 2008 Modern Sky Music Festival? a) Lost Train b) SMZB c) Guai Li d) AV Okubo

3. The Chinese name for propaganda films can be loosely translated as: a) “main melody” films b) “merry melody” films c) “mainstream message” films d) “action documentary” films

6. The owner of Fish Nation recently opened a new restaurant in Houhai. What is it called? a) Fryer’s Delight b) Orange Tree Bistro c) Let’s Sushi d) Guantanamera.com

4. A promising source of alternative green energy has been found in: a) streptococcus bacteria b) barrel cacti farms c) green algae d) gerbil-powered fuel cells

7. In what year did the Starbucks in the Forbidden City close? a) 2009 b) 2007 c) 2005 d) 2006

12 the Beijinger / October 2009

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Answers to September’s Trivia Travails: 1. b) Meng Jinghui 2. c) horse 3. b) bull guts 4. c) fried chicken & wafﬂes 5. b) France 6. a) battery-powered lights 7. c) 44% 8. c) Big Family 9. a) London 10. d) a comic book illustrator Last month’s winners were John Romankiewicz, Oliver Wang and Martin Stegelmeier.

8. He Yunchang made artwork from his: a) dreadlocks b) wisdom teeth c) blood d) rib 9. Mao liked to eat which Western cake? a) Millionaire’s Shortbread b) banoffee pie c) éclair d) tiramisu 10. Felix Mendelssohn conducted: a) the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra b) the Radio Wind Orchestra Leipzig c) the German Radio Philharmonic d) the North German Symphony Orchestra 2. The Chinese did not invent: a) football b) hockey c) golf d) rugby

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

ECOLOGY

cology

IN CONSERVATION

SLIME POWER

GREEN ENERGY THAT’S ACTUALLY … GREEN by Christopher Dennis

un. Wind. Water. Algae? When people think of renewable energy, the slimy green scum lining ponds and sewers is not exactly the ﬁ rst thing that jumps to mind. But the scum of the earth might just be the planet’s new hero – algae fuel holds the potential to become a new, carbon-neutral energy source that could replace fossil fuels, greatly alleviating global warming and the world’s energy crisis.

14 the Beijinger / October 2009

Algae fuel’s advantages over other biofuel feedstocks lie in what it doesn’t do already have food shortages (in 2008, rising food costs related to biofuel production caused riots in Egypt, Haiti, Indonesia and Mauritania). Algae even grows very well in sewage water and agricultural runoff, which holds enormous potential for public waste management as well as bioremediation. Hurdles to implementation Currently, algae fuel is admittedly expensive. The cost of cultivation and harvesting is high, equipment for closed systems is expensive, and open pond systems are susceptible to disease and infection. This results in a price tag much higher than other biodiesel feedstocks or crude oil. Today, algae fuel costs anywhere from two to 16 times more per gallon than crude oil. However, this is a new and rapidly grow-

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ing industry, and several large oil companies have acknowledged its potential through recent large investments in the industry. For example, Exxon Mobil has committed USD 600 million to developing algae fuels. Algae fuel in China Given China’s newfound preoccupation with eco-friendly energy sources, it’s not surprising that there is already a movement towards developing algae fuel here. The Chinese innovation group ENN is making large investments in algae bioreactors – not only as a potential source of energy, but primarily to help sequester carbon from China’s coal-ﬁ red power plants. There’s also foreign investment. Arizonabased Petrosun has recently announced an international venture to establish an algae farm in China. The company says it has an agreement with Jun Ya Yan Technology Development Co. of Shanghai, which will commit USD 40 million to fund the Chinese farm. Algae’s advantages over other biofuel feedstocks lie in what it doesn’t do. It eliminates the moral dilemma of increasing the price of food crops, and its ability to grow on wastewater means it will effectively treat dirty water while leaving our precious supply of freshwater untouched. Best of all, it introduces no new greenhouse gases into the atmosphere. It may sound ideal, but algae fuel on a commercial scale is still some years off. Its viability as a renewable fuel depends entirely on how quickly the technology it involves can be made affordable. Hopefully, this will happen before we can’t afford for it not to.

PHOTO: MARY DENNIS

Turning green to gold In this emerging industry, algae is cultivated, harvested and then converted to fuel using a process called transesteriﬁcation, which is the same process used to convert vegetable oil to diesel engine fuel. It yields roughly 30 times more oil per acre than corn and soybean crops. Using algae as fuel is no new idea – the US Department of Energy studied its feasibility for nearly two decades, beginning in 1978. They gave up in 1996, deciding that it could not compete economically with fossil fuels. Since then, however, the price of oil has gone up substantially, and the incentive to switch to environmentally friendly fuels is growing as rapidly as our ice caps are melting. Algae can be grown in either closed, indoor systems or open ponds. As it grows, it absorbs carbon dioxide and uses the power of the sun to create lipids or carbohydrates that can then be harvested and converted to many kinds of oil, including biodiesel, ethanol, hydrogen and methane. Burning algae fuel is carbon-neutral, since the CO 2 it releases has all been sequestered from the atmosphere to begin

with. Since the fuel it creates would be a substitute for fossil fuels, carbon dioxide would be cycled through the atmosphere rather than newly introduced to it, as happens when gas or oil is burned. Moreover, because algae can be grown anywhere sunny – not just on arable land – it would not compete with food production, as do fuels from corn and soybeans (i.e. edible feedstocks). When not carefully monitored, the planting of edible feedstocks can cause famines in areas that

Q&A

ECOLOGY

Fossil fuel can be hard to afford in rural areas

Positive Energy

Sustainable energy – expensive, but profitable by Laura Morgan

lex Westlake, the managing director and co-founder of green investment company ClearWorld Energy (CWE), has a vision for a world that does not exploit its citizens or its environment. Here’s how he’s turned his vision into a for-proﬁt venture that is creating change around the world.

the Beijinger : How can renewable energy help fight poverty? AW: Many of the world’s poor live in rural areas where traditional fossil energy is expensive (if it’s even available), or trees that protect the natural environment are chopped down and burned inefficiently inside people’s homes, killing many from smoke-related diseases. A remote energy system can support productive village enterprise, healthcare and education. We are working hard to realize a world where everyone has access to energy – a thousand times more energy hits the earth from the sun than we use everyday. tbj : What projects is CWE involved in now? AW: We have four main initiatives, including Camco, which develops greenhouse gas emission reduction projects, and ClearWorld Now, which invests in clean-tech companies here in China. We support 51Give, a microfinance portal for rural clean energy, and we have a CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) program, where we support vulnerable people directly to get clean energy and water.

“A thousand times more solar energy hits the earth than we use everyday” tbj : What changes do you hope to see in the next few years? AW: I hope to see consumers get more engaged and make more informed choices. I hope to see solar PV really take off in China. I think energy efﬁciency, using waste resources and wind, will continue to ﬂourish. I look forward to an electric vehicle and grid revolution and policies to support a vision of distributed energy. I hope the world will come to a global agreement in Copenhagen in December this year so that a price is put on carbon emissions that will enable a massive change to a clean energy future. However, the energy industry has considerable inertia, so in the next few years the most important thing for the industry to do is deliver, deliver, and deliver again. Then, when the government, the banks and the typically conservative investors ask, “Can you really deliver?” – the whole sector will say, “Yes, we can!” More information at www.clearworld.com.cn. From the full interview with Westlake, check out www.thebeijinger.com www.thebeijinger.com

October 2009 / the Beijinger

ECOLOGY

EGA-WHAT CHINA’S RENEWABLE ENERGY INDUSTRY GOES LARGE by Peter Fries

PHOTO: JOHN ROMANKIEWICZ

16 the Beijinger / October 2009

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FEATURE

– helped in part by an oversupply caused by the fi nancial crises. Meanwhile, the 470 MW of wind power installed in 2002 has exploded to more than 13,000 MW this year – doubling capacity each year for the past five years. According to the Renewables Global Status Report: 2009 Update published by the global policy network Ren21, turbines are being commercially produced by at least 15 Chinese companies, including Goldwind, Dongfang, and Sinovel, while several dozen more are producing components. In 2008, China also increased production of small-scale wind turbines to about 80,000 turbines (80 MW). “Through all these developments, the Chinese wind industry appeared entirely unaffected by the global fi nancial crisis, according to industry observers, and some expected manufacturing capacity to approach 20,000 MW per year by 2010,” says the report.

“The Chinese wind industry appeared entirely unaffected by the global financial crisis, according to industry observers” China’s explosive growth in renewable energy is in part due to a shrewd combination of government and international support to develop markets and the institutional capacity of the sector. The government has used the economic crises to pour billions of yuan into the solar and wind sectors, including a recent subsidy of 50 percent of the cost of solar photovoltaic (PV) installations tied to the national grid, as well as a “feed-in tariff” that will pay solar pioneers up to RMB 1.3 per kilowatthour for their clean electricity – the same rate as other providers. At the international level, support from the Global Environment Facility (GEF) and the World Bank has helped with the nitty-gritty of developing the sector’s capacity to expand. In 1999, funded by the GEF and implemented by the World Bank

and Chinese government, the Renewable Energy Development Program helped to establish national testing and certification centers and an industry association, while introducing advanced technology. The program also stimulated market demand, helping more than 40 0,0 0 0 Inner Mongolian yak-herding families access cleaner solar lighting, making solar energy affordable to China’s rural poor. In 2006, the GEF and World Bank created the USD 40 million China Renewable Energy Scale-up Program (CRESP) to further develop the clean energy sector. The rapid expansion of China’s renewable energy capacity is critical if the country is to have any hope of eventually relinquishing its position as the number one global emitter of greenhouse gases. With China’s almost insatiable demand for energy to fuel its economic growth, the rest of the world too has an interest in its renewable energy sector. A lt hou g h m a ny e ne r g y i ndu st r y observers are convinced coal will play a leading role in China and the world’s energy future, others see solar and other forms of renewable energy as “disruptive technologies” that could “fl ip” traditional approaches to energy and power within a decade. The building-integrated photovoltaic system at Suntech company headquarters is an example of a new industrial “skin” that may eventually do away with conventional power lines when combined with advanced energy storage systems. In ten years – the time it takes to build a nuclear power station – the high cost of solar power “will not be an issue,” says Suntech’s Dr. Shi. He is confident that solar will compete with all generation technologies while advanced energy storage technologies will be commercial and reliable. “I truly believe solar will be able to provide all the energy we need,” Shi says, adding that governments should put all the necessary resources into making this happen. “The answer,” he says, “ is already there.” Peter Fries, a freelance journalist and filmmaker based in Australia, recently made a documentary film on China’s renewable energ y sector for the Global Environment Facility.

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

ECOLOGY

rom h is off ice at t he headqu a r te r s of Su ntec h Power Holdings near Wuxi, CEO Shi Zhengrong looks out on the future – literally. The southern facade of h is headquar ters is covered w it h hundreds of thousands of solar cells and generates enough power on a sunny day to power more than 1,000 average European homes. With the help of Suntech and dozens of other new companies, China helped the world increase production of solar electric panels by 90 percent last year alone. Although hit by the world’s economic troubles, the sector continues to expand. Suntech, for example, is still on track this year to become the world’s second-largest producer of solar cells. In January, the company reached the capacity to produce one million kilowatts of solar panels a year, many of which will be part of the Chinese government’s program to generate 20,000 megawatts (MW) of solar power by 2020. At the other end of China, traditional Inner Mongolian herdsmen also look towards the future, but with an eye on the past. As their tough Mongolian horses graze on rolling green steppes or carry tourists on their backs, hundreds of wind turbines stretch to the sky, their 40-meter blades spinning overhead in a stiff and constant wind, producing the equivalent electricity of a large coal-ﬁ red power station. The Inner Mongolian wind farm is just one of many that form the government’s “Three Gorges of the Sky” project that will see up to 120,000 MW of wind power installed by 2020. These and hundreds of other projects have made China the number one producer of renewable energy. Today, China is the leading producer of solar cells, the largest manufacturer of solar water heaters, the number one producer of small-scale hydro systems and number three in wind power. But it wasn’t always this way. Less than a decade ago, China’s renewable energy industry was a mere shadow of its current self. In 2001, for example, China produced just 5 MW of solar cells. Last year, China produced 1,800 MW (more than 300 times the 2001 ﬁgure) and in the process reduced the price of solar cells by half

COVER FEATURE

BEIJING PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE T

here was a time when Beijing only had two subway lines, both of which were built in the early 1970s. Then, in the past decade, an explosion â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Line 13 in 2002, Batong in 2003, and in the span of less than a year (October 2007 to July 2008), Lines 5, 8, 10 and the Airport Express. Currently, an additional 11 tracks are under construction, with three slated for completion in 2015. By the end of 2020, Beijing will have the longest subway system in the world.

18 the Beijinger / October 2009

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It is hard to imagine that it was only last year, in early summer of 2008, that paper tickets went extinct and card swiping became the norm. But as with so many changes in this city, when old ways disappear and a new order comes upon us, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to forget the way we used to be. On the following pages, we take a look back at the events that have transformed Beijing in the last decade, and we ponder what further changes the future may hold.

WAY BACK WHEN: 2000-2004

2001

2002

2003

2004

The dreaded Y2K bug is an anticlimax, unlike the fireworks ringing in the New Year. The International Olympic Committee tours Beijing as a potential host for the 2008 Games. They can enjoy Sanlitun’s bars, Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon and a Starbucks in the Forbidden City but not a ride in the phased-out miandi (bread-box taxi). China takes 28 golds in Sydney.

Beijing is awarded the 2008 Olympic Games, to the delight of thousands who take to the streets in celebration. A growing bailing infatuation with sushi allows for the opening of Hatsune. Other notable developments are the emergence of the 798 art district and the first Meet in Beijing Arts Festival. Internationally, Beijing Bicycle takes a Silver Bear award at the Berlin Film Festival, Wang Zhizhi becomes the first Chinese NBA player, and Cold Blooded Animal and Brain Failure play the SXSW Festival in Texas.

Foreigners are allowed to buy housing as many more hutongs begin to be demolished. Home furnishings are all the rage with artist Chen Yifei’s Layefe Home store. The St. Regis launches the city’s first champagne brunch; meanwhile, tbj wrongly predicts that the bars of the West and South Gates of Chaoyang Park will make way for an Olympic basketball venue. Hero is a big hit at home and worldwide, and Yao Ming is the top pick in the NBA draft.

At the end of a year notable for SARS wreaking havoc on events, construction begins on the Bird’s Nest. Toni&Guy and Hutong Pizza hit town as the 700th KFC opens. Sanlitun South Street packs in the partiers and Centro begins to make a splash. Xiao He releases his debut album on Modern Sky, and for the first time ever the Top China music awards add a rock category.

There’s record snowfall in a year when many buy cars, which hit the street at a rate of 1,000 new vehicles per day. The snow also explains the popularity of UGG boots. 7-11 opens its first store, but more joy is reserved for what tbj calls the “ridiculously cheap” Biteapitta and Fish Nation. The first Dashanzi International Art Festival sees He Yunchang cemented in a box for 24 hours. The death knell rings for Sanlitun South, but Yugong Yishan opens and Joyside debuts.

PHOTOS: MARY DENNIS

2000

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

THE WAY WE WERE: 2005-2006

The RMB stops being pegged to the US dollar and tourists can spend their revalued currency at the newly built Silk Street market and 3.3 Shopping Mall. The “Friendlies,” as the Olympic mascots were first known, are unveiled. A powdered milk scare is overshadowed by bird flu, which in turn leads to people swearing off poultry dishes. Ai Weiwei, the first of many artists to turn restaurateur, opens Qu Na’r. The Chinese art world gets another shot in the arm as Sotheby’s establishes an Asian Contemporary

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Art department. Zhang Yimou collaborates with Japanese ﬁlmmaker Yasuo Furuhata to make Riding Alone for Thousands of Miles. Not to be outdone, Zhang Ziyi receives an Oscar nomination for her English-speaking role in Memoirs of a Geisha. Meanwhile, Shanghai Dreams takes the Jury Prize at Cannes. A new Maggie’s and The Tree entice drinkers for the ﬁrst time, as does 2 Kolegas. Meanwhile, Yan Jun starts his “Waterland Kwanyin” experimental noise series.

COVER FEATURE

There are fireworks, literally, as a 12-year ban on pyrotechnics is lifted. The cheaper sedan (xiali) taxis begin to be phased out; traffic modernization expands with the launch of the yikatong smartcard for buses and subways. The city government unveils their plans to further develop Nanluogu Xiang, where a T-shirt emporium named Plastered has sprung up. Elsewhere in fashion, Paul Smith holds a show in 798 and the Chinese edition of Vogue launches. Indian food is the flavor of the month as Ganges, Mughal’s and Mirch Masala all open their first restaurants. Two years after opening, The Bookworm

hosts its first literary festival. Bai Xianyong’s youth edition of Peony Pavilion leads to a sudden upsurge of interest in Kunqu opera. Zhang Xiaogang becomes the first Chinese artist to break the USD 1 million mark at auction and is ranked second on the ArtPrice Top 100. Much cheaper are nights out at the newly opened D-22 and Q Bar, while the opening of Sugar Jar in 798 creates a new haven for independent music lovers. The first Yen Countdown party takes place, as does the CH+Indie Fest, but the Beijing Pop Festival and Jay-Z shows fall foul of cancellations.

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

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22 the Beijinger / October 2009

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

COVER FEATURE

BEIJING

2010 AND BEYOND

24 the Beijinger / October 2009

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By 2010, there will be an estimated 3.8 million cars on Beijing’s roads. Cars will eventually be restricted to such a degree that the average car owner will only be able to drive one day a week. By 2011, Beijing will be the largest Wi-Fi city in the world. World of Warcraft becomes a national sport. At the London 2012 Games, China will eclipse their medal total from Beijing. That same year, D-22 sees off the challenge of copycat bars D-23, D-24 and D-55. A second international airport will serve the city by 2015. No one will be able to afford to fly. The Seventh, Eighth, Ninth and Tenth Ring Roads will open, effectively making Tianjin, Tangshan and Taiyuan suburbs of Beijing. In 2018, there will be a citywide ban on smoking in public places – elderly gentlemen stage a revolt. The origin of a new global “scorpflu” pandemic is traced to Wangfujing Night Market. By 2019, Beijing will top the list of most expensive cities to live in. Cab drivers will still complain when breaking RMB 100 notes. Traditionalists are in uproar as Confucius’ Analects is reduced to ten words for the Twitter generation. A 66-year-old Jackie Chan releases Rush Hour 4 in 2020. Paul Oakenfold returns every single year of the decade and is awarded the elusive D [green card] visa, on account of his services to Chinese nightlife.

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

BEIJING

THE NEXT DECADE? The ﬁlm Wolf Totem proves to be just as controversial with critics

Origin of new global “scorpﬂu” pandemic traced to Wangfujing

as the book was.

Night Market.

Beijing’s population will soar past 20 million by 2020.

Gui Jie restaurants are told to clean up or close. They all close.

By 2010, there will be an estimated 3.8 million cars on Beijing’s

Paul Oakenfold returns EVERY SINGLE YEAR of the decade and is

roads. Expect that ﬁgure to double before steel runs out.

awarded the elusive D [green card] visa, on account of his serv-

In 2012, the high-speed rail link between Beijing and Shanghai

ices to Chinese nightlife

will open. The journey will take around 4 hours.

Chinese rock becomes world-famous; hip-hop starts to blow up.

The subway will extend citywide by 2015. It will span over 560km.

Yao Ming will retire by 2011, but a Chinese point guard or small

In 2018, there will be a citywide ban on smoking in public places.

forward will play in the NBA and be a legitimate force. Hutong Pizza will ﬁnally deliver citywide, like we wrongly predicted

Elderly gentlemen may revolt. Beijing will top lists of most expensive cities to live in. Cab drivers will still complain when breaking RMB 100 notes. A second international airport will serve the city by 2015. No one will be able to afford to ﬂy. By 2011, Beijing will be the largest Wi-Fi city in the world. World of Warcraft becomes a national sport.

way back in 2003. We will again ask, “When will Beijing club owners learn that a venue doesn’t have to look like an android’s clitoris to get custom?” We go as wild as saying NLGX has “tipped over the popularity peak and is headed straight for near-assisted ruin.” Like we did in 2004.

The water shortage in Beijing hits a crisis point in 2010, when the population reaches three million more than its resources can support. Starting in 2014, water-scarce Beijing will pipe in one billion cubic tons of water from the Yangtze per year. At the London 2012 Games, China will eclipse their medal total from Beijing. Chinese boxers will be allowed to turn pro and the country becomes a dominant force across weight divisions. Housing prices will drop, then rise, then drop, then rise again – by the year 2020, the average cost of an apartment in Beijing will be RMB 10 million. Soho Jishuitan sets a real estate record for fastest-selling units, followed closely by Soho Xuanwumen and Soho Guang’anmen. Cars will be restricted (by license plate number) to such a degree

China will bid for the World Cup before the decade is out. Or give up men’s football entirely. Qipao and tangzhuang become essential ofﬁcewear for the Chinese professional; tangzhuang continue to look stupid on Western men. A spry 66-year-old Jackie Chan releases Rush Hour 4 in 2020. Carsick Cars grow beards; Shou Wang’s relationship with an American photographer leads to an acrimonious split, after which said photographer is viliﬁed by Michael Pettis and others as the “woman who broke up Carsick Cars” D-22 sees off the challenge of copycat bars D-23, D-24 and D-55. Books no longer exist. Traditionalists are in uproar as Confucius’ Analects is reduced to ten words for the Twitter generation.

that the average car owner will only be able to drive on Beijing

Ai Weiwei becomes a respected commentator on a weekly arts

roads one day a week.

review show on CCTV 1, called “Weiwei Shenme?” and opens a

The 7th, 8th, 9th and 10th Ring Roads will open, effectively making Tianjin, Tangshan and Taiyuan suburbs of Beijing.

restaurant in Dashanzi called 79ate. Peony Pavilion overtakes Cats as the longest-running theater production ever. Hello Kitty: Genesis becomes the most successful movie of all time at the box ofﬁce; it stars Zhang Ziyi.

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STYLE STYLE www.thebeijinger.com October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 25 Anteprima opens the new season with a trail of blazers. See Hot Buys, p27; photo provided by Anteprima thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;smags

tyle S

MUST HAVE

Bold Shoulders

Love them or hate them, the ’80s power shoulders are

STYLE

back in full force on the runways this autumn. Designers such as Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Balmain are playing with architectural shoulder cuts. Coming in rectangular, rounded, bubble and even sharp-shouldered, this trend is so big that you can find blazers, shirts and even dresses ﬁnished with this feature. Get the look in small boutiques around Jianwai Soho and Nali Patio or at high street brands like Zara and H&M. More budget buys are available on www.taobao. com. Belle Zhao

26 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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BUDGET MOISTURIZERS by Belle Zhao

ost consumers assume that the prices of beauty products are directly proportional to their quality. But what’s the real difference between a 500-kuai facial cream and a 20-kuai product? Certainly, products from the high-end European cosmetic giants may have additional features, such as anti-aging, whitening, etc, since they spend more money on research and development. On the other hand, they also spend a ton on advertising, marketing, luxury packaging, etc. If you’re on a budget and simply want a basic, effective moisturizer, here’s a list of reliable options. Pehchaolin 24-hour moisturizing cream (百雀羚24小时保湿霜) A cheap version of Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream, this keeps your skin moisturized for 24 hours. Ideal for the face – and you can even slather it on as body lotion without wincing at the price. RMB 10.9 (50g).

Friendship cream (友谊护肤脂) Though it’s an oil-based cream, it moisturizes the skin without feeling greasy. Good as a hand cream, too. The small, round container is very portable – and pleasingly retro. RMB 4.5 (40.5g).

Ya Shuang vanishing cream (雅霜雪花膏) Moisturize, soften and smooth your skin with a brand that’s been around for more than 70 years. This cream’s heavy, oil-based texture makes it the best for very dry skin during winter. RMB 7.5 (80g).

Dabao SOD Milk (大宝SOD蜜) Dabao is China’s most recognizable local brand – and its classic SOD milk cream is a must-have facial moisturizer for all seasons. Chinese consumers like it for its whitening effect. RMB 7.5 (100ml), RMB 14 (165ml). “The Horse” moisturizing cream (马牌油) This three-in-one cream for face, hands and lips was a skincare staple of every family in 1980s China. The oil-based product soothes cracked lips and works wonders on chapped or ﬂaking skin due to windburn. RMB 2.5 (24g). All of these products are available at www.taobao.com.

PHOTOS: JUDY ZHOU

he recession is still the number one element that designers are taking into account as they release their new collections. As seen in the boutiques and department stores, classic and versatile wear like Burberry-inspired trench coats, blazers and waistcoats are fall’s hottest looks (see Hot Buys, p27). Spanish fashion house Mango has found its own solution to the difficult economic times. Under the slogan “Special prices for creative living,” they have created a “Think Up” low-cost fashion collection, featuring over 90 garments; prices start at RMB 119. They even launched a fashion blog (http://thinkup.mango.com) to promote the collection, now available at selected Mango stores. More good news: Japanese brand Uniqlo is making luxury designer pieces affordable. It has teamed up with Jil Sander, the master of minimalist design, to produce a “J Line for Uniqlo” collection, which will be launched on October 2 at its Sanlitun store and online at www.uniqlo.com. Expect to pay RMB 299 for a tuxedo shirt and RMB 899 for a wool blazer. October 1 marks the 60th birthday of the PRC. In tribute, the hip store NLGX collaborates with ZJ Design on limited edition T-shirts, which will be packaged (RMB 390) with a gold-print 60-year-anniversary army bag and poster. NLGX is not alone with the anniversary T-shirts, as Plastered has also launched a new T-shirt for National Day. When it comes to green fashion, we tend to focus on whether the clothing is produced from material that is organic or eco-friendly. The eco label SLVR, released by Adidas earlier this year, goes green in a different way. Beyond using environmentally friendly materials, they are attempting to minimize waste in production. SLVR recently launched a line of black-and-white tees, cut randomly from fabric that’s been printed with massive text: “this is an unlimited edition.” Only a couple of the gigantic letters fit on a shirt, making each cotton tee practically one of a kind. Get them at Adidas’s store at The Village at Sanlitun. As a new season starts, sales and discounts at department stores become rare. However, great deals can be found at many spa and massage centers. Le Spa at Wanda Sofitel is offering half-price on all treatments for Beijing residents. Fspa features 30 percent off on all treatments. And Comfort Zone Spa is offering a “two people go, one person free” promotion for their facial treatments. Belle Zhao

Take5

Out in a blazer

ELEGANCE

HOT BUYS

n autumn, the ﬁtted blazer is an absolute wardrobe essential for both men and women. As a bridge between formal and casual wear, these jackets can be worn with button-down shirts and trousers from 9 to 5 or with layered shirts and jeans for a weekend stroll. It’s worth splurging on, as blazers are so classic that they never go out of style. Here are our top nine picks from both the luxury designer names and the high street brands.

PHOTOS: MARY DENNIS AND COURTESY CIYITANG TATTOO JUDY ZHOU AND COURTESY OF OF IZZUE, H&M AND NET-A-PORTER.COM

STYLE

by Belle Zhao

FOR HER

FOR HIM

Keep your work attire as sharp as your wit with this fitted, double-breasted grey blazer. Price TBD. H&M

Command attention in this cropped, military-inspired blazer with golden button details. RMB 349. H&M

Try this double-breasted cover-up over a crisp white shirt for a super-chic workwear look. RMB 599. H&M

This black satin-trimmed tuxedo is your nightlife must-have. Wear it over a sexy party dress and be the belle of the ball. RMB 6,500. See by Chloe at Lane Crawford

Layer this boyfriend blazer over T-shirts and tights, and you’ll look as cool as Kate Moss. RMB 559. Zara

Who said suits had to be boring? This izzue blazer redefines traditional suiting with its original colors and patched design. Price TBD. izzue

Slip this sleek black blazer with faux-fur details over a simple dress to transform plain into sophisticated. RMB 5,600. Elizabeth and James at Lane Crawford

This strong-shouldered black jacket reinterprets YSL’s classic Le Smoking with modern tailoring. RMB 26,559. Balmain at Net-a-porter.com

This navy blazer belongs to every season. Wear it with shorts or jeans for a slouchy look. RMB 1,099. izzue

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October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 27 that’smags

STYLE

What’s New

SHOPS

Katie Xu Daily 10am-9pm. Counter H3, 1/F, Ginza Mall, Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (no tel)

朝阳区东直门外大街银座广场1层 3号柜台

If the mass-produced jewelry at department stores bores you, head to Katiexu.com for innovative pieces inspired by nature. Before establishing her own label, Xu studied fashion design and costume interpretation in the UK and subsequently worked with British designers including Frederick Fox (milliner to Queen Elizabeth) and Katharine Goodison. The fanciful and sophisticated silhouettes that comprise Xu’s collection are created from rhodium-plated sterling silver and brass. Our favorite pieces include a “Sea Creature” brooch (RMB 978), a “Tree” pendant (RMB 978) and a “Seaweed” necklace (RMB 3,880). If online shopping makes you nervous, a brick-andmortar store awaits at the Ginza Mall. Belle Zhao

Quan Spa at Marriott Beijing City Wall Daily 3pm-midnight. 7 Jianguomen Nandajie, Dongcheng District (5811 8187)

东城区建国门南大街7号万豪酒店

The Belgian town of Spa was so renowned for its mineral springs that it became synonymous with medicinal bathing and health resorts; in fact, “spa” was translated into Chinese as shuiliao, or “water therapy.” Nowadays, though, most people associate spas almost exclusively with massage. Marriott’s Quan Spa reclaims the word’s original meaning by offering a range of therapies where guests can “take the waters.” One of their exclusive treatments is Tropical Rainshower Ritual (RMB 520), where spa-goers lie on a bed to be gently pummeled from head to toe by warm Vichy water jets and exfoliated with customized oils, followed by a massage. Quan’s other must-try treatment is Dream (RMB 260), where guests submerse themselves in a bathtub that uses ﬂowing water to gently massage the body. Belle Zhao

Lazy Sunday Daily 10.30am-10pm. Rm 104, Villa 5, Jianwai Soho, Chaoyang District (5900 2568)

朝阳区建外Soho5号别墅104室

Daily 10am-11pm. 144 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District (136 9113 0149)

朝阳区鼓楼东大街144号

What goes up when the rain comes down? An umbrella, of course. These traditional Chinese paper parasols are lovingly handmade, with solid bamboo handles and a cotton/paper canopy waterproofed with natural oil; though they look delicate, they have a satisfying weight in the hand and feel like they’re made to last. The eye-catching styles range from classical Chinese landscapes to more abstract ﬂoral patterns upon backgrounds of turquoise, yellow, lilac or tan. Pick one up for the inﬂation-adjusted price of RMB 150 for the standard size, or splurge on the parasol with hand-painted peonies (RMB 1,000). Tom O’Malley

28 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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PHOTOS: JUDY ZHOU AND COURTESY OF KATIE XU

Ruoshuitang Umbrella 若水堂古典油纸伞

The next time you’re at Jianwai Soho, check out this Art Deco-adorned store, ﬁlled with lots of creative knickknacks and clothing. One-of-a-kind items are the specialty here, from vintage black frame glasses and handmade wooden frames to retro tin toy car and train models, as well as gift boxes printed with funky graphics. If these fail to satisfy your thirst for quirk, browse the boutique’s fashion collection, which includes several sharply tailored, ‘80s-inﬂuenced long suits (around RMB 600), mini-skirts with elastic waistlines (RMB 245), and a variety of elegant dresses. Belle Zhao

INSPECT A GADGET

The Audiophile’s by Joey Guo

DESIGN

The gadget has a sleek, utilitarian design. Smaller but thicker than the iPod Touch, its sturdy metal exterior makes it feel nice and expensive.

CONNECTIVITY

Equipped with Wi-Fi, the Walkman also keeps you connected to the Internet so you can download music on the go.

DISPLAY

The 320x240 touchscreen displays sharp images and OLED technology provides a response time suitable for movie playback. A wide viewing angle of nearly 180 degrees offers vivid color reproduction and a high contrast ratio.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF SONY

ou’re a purist. When you listen to music, nothing else exists. You admire tools that are streamlined and purpose-driven. Everything else is just noise, clutter. If what you require above all from a portable music player is superb audio fidelity, you might be very happy with a Walkman from Sony’s new NWZ-X1000 series. With Sony’s digital Clear Audio technologies and S-Master digital amplifier, the music pulsing through the supplied earphones sounds incredibly lifelike, no matter where you are. That’s because the headphones’ noise-canceling function can be adjusted for different settings – subways, planes or offices – without sacrificing music quality. The built-in digital custom equalizer setting lets you tweak the sound to your liking even more. Of course, you don’t object to a little Wi-Fi with your Hi-Fi. If you want to explore beyond your personal playlist, there’s an on-board Slacker application, integrated YouTube support and FM tuner – all of them accessible via this Walkman’s intuitive and user-friendly touchscreen interface. Compared with iPod Touch’s superabundance of functions and applications, this Walkman might seem rudimentary. On the other hand, if you prefer superb sound quality over features you’ll rarely use, the choice is clear.

EASE OF USE

You can drag and drop your music, pictures and video onto this device from your computer. The menus are easy to navigate; simply ﬂ ick or swipe your ﬁ nger across the screen to scroll through your entire multimedia collection.

NWZ-X1060 (32G) RMB 3,399 NWZ-X1050 (16G) RMB 2,599

BATTERY Both models are available at the Sony Store. L330, 3/F, South Bldg, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District (6587 1350) 朝阳区光华路9号世贸商业中心南街3层L330号

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You can listen to up to 33 hours of music and watch up to nine hours of video without needing to recharge.

October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 29 that’smags

STYLE

CHOICE

SONY’S NEW MP3 WALKMAN

FASHION FIVE-OH

SNEAKING ABOUT

THE WIDE WORLD OF ATHLETIC FOOTWEAR

STYLE

text by Jonathan White; photos by Mary Dennis

emember when you went to school? Your sneakers could be the cause of much upset if you didn’t have the “right” pair. Thing is, things don’t really change. People are still going to notice and comment on your choice of footwear. On the upside, Beijing is not gangland, so there’s no risk that those shoes your mum picked out could get you shot.

Beijing has been known to be a haven for fake goods. No, really. Get over the shock and instead look for the giveaway on these New Balanc. That’s right, dropping an “e” is neither big nor clever.

Matching shoes with your partner is about five steps cooler than wearing those T-shirts that have paired slogans. The risk is if you start playing away from home and your beloved notices you’ve changed footwear. Stay monogamous, kids. It’s simpler.

OK, these aren’t sneakers but there’s no way we weren’t going to feature them on this page. Sandals with laces in a fetching camel color take some time to comprehend. These feet belonging to a man takes a little longer still.

Skinny jeans tucked into high-tops that are almost as icy-white as the day they were box-fresh but just dirty enough to wonder where they have been. You want to be in this person’s band. Failing that, you want to be their band’s groupie.

Texture and color are to be experimented with. You’re only young once, after all. The trouble is that when you’re young, you tend to overindulge. Imagine being so drunk you can only look at your shoes and then you see these. Blimey.

Commitment to a brand is always to be encouraged, especially if it’s a niche brand. Avia has long been slept on by the masses. Coordinating your kicks with even harderto-find Avia socks is a nice touch.

Cute can quickly turn to kitsch. As things stand, you are allowed to have purple laces and silver shoes and flowers and colored stripes and gold writing on your shoes. You just can’t have them all on one pair. It makes you look eight years old.

All of the hipsters that you read about in online-only magazines are wearing Feiyue now. In Beijing, though, they don’t cost the same as a pair of Alexander McQueen slacks. They are cheap and practical and perfect for gym class. Take that, zeitgeist.

These appear to have been originally made to help the Smurfs get through their harsh winters. Snowboots in blue and yellow with flower details on the eyelets sound repulsive but in a strange, anime-wrestler kind of way, they really work.

If you’re an adult but aren’t a skater, then you have no reason to wear such clumpy, awkward shoes. Unless you have fallen arches. Sorry about your arches.

30 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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For a comprehensive directory, see www.thebeijinger.com ANTIQUES & REPRODUCTIONS C.L. Ma Furniture Highly respected antique dealer sells antique and reproduced trunks, tables, chairs, shelves, screens etc. to an enthusiastically loyal customer base from here to Hong Kong. Daily 10am7.30pm. Rm 116, Bldg 4, Park Avenue, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6466 7040/6530 6475) www.xn-fjqv0l023e.com 可乐马家俱北京分公司, 朝阳区朝阳公园南路6号公园大道4号楼116室

Bodhi Sense Like the original branch of Bodhi on Gongti, Bodhi Sense draws inspiration from both Thai and Chinese culture, but boasts an added touch of luxury. There are ten foot-massage rooms and an additional ten treatment rooms, all exquisitely decorated Daily 11am-12.30am. 2/F, Somerset Grand Fortune Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8440 1495) 朝阳区亮马桥路46号盛捷副景苑公寓2层 Bodhi Therapeutic Retreat Located in a sixfloor building opposite the north gate of the Workers’ Stadium, the original Bodhi Therapeutic Retreat offers a variety of professional treatments – Thai style massage (RMB 288/90 min), facials (from RMB 320), foot massages (RMB 158/85 min), and pedicures (RMB 68 at the Gongti branch only) courtesy of Anglefish Boutique – as well as complimentary food and snacks cooked up by their Thai chef. For extra luxury, try the specialty packages (from RMB 450/1.5 hours) at the swish sister spa Bodhi Sense on Liangmaqiao Lu. Daily 11am-12.30am. 17 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6417 9595) www.bodhi.com.cn 菩提会所, 朝阳区工体北路17号

STYLE

Lily’s Antiques Specializing in high class antique furniture (mainly from nothern China, in walnut and elmwood) and custom-made furniture, for the local market. Also wholesale for antique and newly made furniture. Excellent service for international transportation of furniture. Furthermore a wide selection of accessories is offered. 1) Daily 8.30am-6pm. Gaobeidian Showroom, 6 Gaobeidian Furniture Street, Chaoyang District. Contact Lily Quan (6572 9746, 138 0139 6309) (8579 2458, www.lilys-antiques.com); 2) Visit by Appointment. Factory and Warehouse Address, Baimiao industry area, Songzhuang town, Tongzhou District. Contact Lily Quan (6572 9746, 138 0139 6309) (138 0139 6309) 华伦古典家具, 1) 朝阳区高碑店家俱一条街69号; 2) 通州区工厂地址,通州区宋庄镇白庙村工业大院

Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6551 6461/2/3) www.vajra.com.hk 画间沙龙, 朝阳区工体西路18号光彩国际公寓S106

Tanghouse Gallery Tanghouse specializes in custom-made furniture manufactured in Beijing. Their designs bridge contemporary and classic styles, characterized by clean lines and quality raw materials, including hardwoods, skins and stones. Online sales only. Daily 9.30am-6pm. Rm 1132, 11/F, Tower A, Gateway Square, Sanyuanqiao, Chaoyang District. (6764 2214, 139 1007 3689) www.tanghouse.cn 逸唐居, 朝阳区三元桥佳程广场A座1132室

BEAUTY PARLORS, SPAS & MASSAGE 99 Massage and Spa Center Clean, comfortable and relaxing massage. Free food, drinks and fruit. Aromatic oil massage (RMB 200-380), body/foot massage (RMB 150/100). Single and double rooms. Daily 11am-midnight. Rm 703, E-Tower C12, Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6501 0799) 99按摩中心, 朝阳区光华路丙12号数码 01大厦703室(嘉里中心与国贸之间） Anantara Spa Massages start from RMB 480 (60min) and facials are available from RMB 520. Daily 10am-10pm (flexible opening hours on request). The Commune, Shuiguan Great Wall, Badaling Gaosulu, Yanqing County. (8118 1888 ext 5100/01, anantaraspa@commune.com.cn) 延庆县八达岭高速路水关长城出口长城脚下的公社凯宾斯基饭店 Angel Hands Offers Chinese-style body massage, Thai-style massage, olive oil massage and slimming massage. Daily 24 hours. Rm 1801, Bldg 2, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (8631 0801) 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外 Soho2号楼1801室 Arinya Massage and Spa 1/F, Zifeng Bldg, 1 Dayabao Hutong, Chaoyang District. (6525 5799) 朝阳区大雅宝胡同1号梓峰大厦1层 Askido Nail-lab Centre Offers wide range of innovative nail care products, not to mention over 200 shades of fabulous nail polish. Daily 10.30am-9pm. Store 329, 3/F, U-Town Lifestyle Center,Chaoyangmenwai, Chaoyang District. (5975 4522) 爱饰绮朵美甲会社, 朝阳区朝阳门外悠唐生活广场 3层329商铺

C. de France Hair & Beauty Salon The C. de France team of international and local stylists, colorists and beauticians offer an holistic hair and beauty experience. The salon mixes French chic with modern simplicity to create a sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere offering a wide range of hair services and beauty treatments, including manicures and pedicures, waxing and tanning. Referral and VIP programs available. Daily 10am-8pm. Nali Mall, Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6417 3029) C美发沙龙, 朝阳区三里屯北路那里商城内 Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat Dragonfly’s boutique operation avoids rowdy groups and leaves ample room for relaxation and solace – something that its largescale competitors cannot guarantee. An exhaustive menu of spa packages, such as Ultimate Indulgence featuring an hour each of full-body and foot massage, start at RMB 270. Facials also available. 1) Daily 10am-1am. 1/F, Grand Summit Plaza, 19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa Center), Chaoyang District. (8532 3122); 2) Daily 10am-1am. 60 Donghuamen Ave (near The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza), Dongcheng District. (6527 9368); 3) Daily 10am-1am. B1/F, Eastern Hotel, Nansanlitun Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6593 6066) 悠庭保健会所, 1) 朝阳区朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号外交会所1层（燕莎中心路北100米）; 2) 东城区东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方广场); 3) 朝阳区朝阳区三里屯南路逸羽酒店1层

Bangs Hair Salon Clean white walls keep the focus on hairstyling at this minimalist salon, staffed by Japanese stylists versed in the latest Tokyo trends. A cut is RMB 320, moisturizing treatment RMB 350, and perms start at RMB 200. Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. Stall 101, Bldg 4, Central Park, 6 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6597 0578) 朝阳区朝阳门外大街6号新城国际4号楼101号 Beijing Salon Vajra Catering to clients who demand very personal service, this experienced team of British and Hong Kong stylists and colorists offers professional hairdressing services, and luxury hand and foot spa treatments. Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. S106, Glory World Apartments, 18 Gongti

Eric Paris Salon Well-trained international stylists and colorists provide hair styling

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October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 31 that’smags

STYLE

For a comprehensive directory, see www.thebeijinger.com and a wide-range of beauty products. Also offer beauty, nails, waxing and tanning services. 1) 10am-8pm. 2/F, JW Marriott Hotel Beijing, China Central Place, 83 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (5908 8381); 2) Daily 10am-8pm. 43 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District. (135 0137 2971); 3) Daily 10am-8pm. Stall 123, Kerry Centre Shopping Mall, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (139 1179 8376); 4) Daily 10am-8pm. Lido Hotel, 112 Jichang Lu, Chaoyang District. (135 0107 5843); 5) 1/F, Hilton Hotel, 1 Dongfang Lu, Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (137 0118 3307); 6) Daily 10am-8pm. 5/F, The Westin Beijing, 9B Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District. (139 1162 6051) 爱丽克美容美发, 1) 朝阳区华贸中心建国路83号万豪酒店2层; 2) 朝阳区三里屯后街43号; 3) 朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心商场123; 4) 朝阳区机场路 112号丽都饭店; 5) 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号希尔顿酒店一层; 6) 西城区金融大街乙9号北京金融街威斯汀大酒店5层 Flora Spa The emphasis here is on friendly, personalized service, rather than luxury furnishings and glamor. Daily 10am-9pm. Suite 7, 17/F, Bldg 4, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (6530 5475) www.floraspa.cn 弗洛拉, 朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心4号楼1707 Franck Provost World-famous hair salon with highly trained stylists and colorists. Hair cuts/treatments from RMB 220; perm/ color from RMB 380 RMB. Daily 10am10pm. Shop D2001-1, 2/F, Shin Kong Place, 87 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (6530 7696/7669) 朝阳区建国路87号新光天地二层 D2001-1店铺 FSPA F Spa’s minimalist black and white tones murmur serenity, inviting you to take refuge from the gritty world outside. An on-site skin therapist can diagnose your skin type to help identify you ideal treatment. Daily 10am-10pm. 81/F, Block BC, Chaowai Soho, B6 Cahoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (5900 1868) 朝阳区朝阳门外大街乙6号朝外Soho BC座地下1层城区金融大街乙9号

I Spa English-speaking staff offers aromatherapy massage, Thai massage, scrubs, wraps, facials, floral bath, steaming, TCM and foot reflexology. All the rooms are private suites. The second destination spa with hot spring facilities offers customers a chance to escape the city. Special packages for couples are also available. For promotions call ahead or log on to the website. 1) 10am-midnight. B1/F, Traders Upper East Hotel, Upper East Side, Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5907 8877); 2) Daily 11am-11pm. Napa Valley, 68 Shashun Lu, Xiaotangshan, Changping District. (6178 7795, 61787711); 3) Daily noon-11pm. 5/F, Tower 2, Taiyue Suites, Sanlitun Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6507 1517, 8595 2277 ext 5666); 4) 1/F, Gehua New Century Hotel, 19 Gulouwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6202 8888 ext 6666); 5) 6/F, New Century Grand Hotel, Caishikou Dajie, Xuanwu District. (6352 7157) www. ispa.cn 泰美好, 1) 朝阳区东四环北路阳光上东上东盛贸饭店地下1层; 2) 昌平区小汤山沙顺路68号纳帕溪谷会所(九华山庄对面); 3) 朝阳区三里屯南路泰悦豪庭2座5层; 4) 朝阳区鼓楼外大街19号歌华开元大酒店1层（原华北大酒店）; 5) 宣武区菜市口大街开元名都大酒店6层 I-Spa There are 10 rooms, each focusing on a different treatment, including facial, tanning, foot reflexology, body massage and Vichy shower but the main attraction is the InterContinental Massage (RMB 980/1 hr 45 minutes). Daily 10.30am-

32 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

midnight (last appointment 11pm). 6/F, InterContinental Financial Street Beijing, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District. (5852 5888 ext 5601) 西城区金融街11号金融街洲际酒店6层 Long Island Massage & Spa This large establishment offers Chinese and Thai-style massage and reflexology, as well as facials and other beauty treatments. 1) Daily 11am-2am. 14A Guanghua Lu (5/F, Nuo’an Bldg, southwest of the Kerry Centre), Chaoyang District. (5130 9718, 6591 6247); 2) Daily 11am-1am. B1/F, Jiahui Center, 6 Jiqingli, Dongcheng District. (6551 6112/13) www.longislandspa.com.cn 长岛健身, 1) 朝阳区光华路甲14号（嘉里中心西南侧诺安大厦5层）; 2) 东城区吉庆里6号佳汇中心地下1层 Lovely Nails Stylish joint with professional uniformed staff offering manicures (RMB 90), pedicures (RMB 130) and other services. The Taiyue Heights location is slightly cheaper, with manicures for RMB 70 and pedicures for RMB 100. Call for reservations. 1) River Garden Clubhouse, No.7 Yuyang Road, Houshayu, Shunyi District. (6458 0603/4); 2) Taiyue Suites, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6502 5989); 3) 102 Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District. (6417 5812/3) 北京爱手爱脚美甲中心, 1) 顺义区后沙峪榆阳路7号裕京花园俱乐部; 2) 朝阳区南三里屯路泰悦豪庭1层; 3) 朝阳区三里屯后街同里1层102 Oriental Taipan Massage and Spa Relax in style among rose-scented water features, soft music and helpful, friendly staff. Private rooms are available; bring your favorite tunes or DVDs and feel those serotonin levels rise. 1) Daily 11am-12.30am. 2/F, Block 9, Lido Place, 2A Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6437 6299); 2) Daily 11am-12.30am. B1/F, 1 Xindong Lu (next to Shenji Best Soup), Chaoyang District. (8532 2177); 3) Daily 11am-3am. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu, Chaoyang District. (6502 5722); 4) Daily 10am-12.30am. B/1-3F, Shuncheng Hotel, 26A Financial Street, Xicheng District. (6621 8622); 5) Daily 10am-12.30am. Bldg 25, Central Park Phase 3, 6 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6597 0015); 6) Daily 11am-1am. Rm 101, Bldg B, Winterless Center, 1 Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District. (6538 8086) www.taipan.com.cn 东方大班保健休闲会所, 1) 朝阳区芳园西路甲2号丽都广场9号公寓2层; 2) 朝阳区新东路1号沈记靓汤旁; 3) 朝阳区日坛路6号新族大厦院内; 4) 西城区西城区金融街甲26号顺成饭店地下一层; 5) 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际公寓三期25号楼; 6) 朝阳区西大望路1号温特莱中心B座101 Renewal Spa & Resort Drawing on a decade of experience in Singapore, the team behind Renewal has established a day spa that specializes in Javanese massages, and a resort complex that offers lengthier and luxurious packages and treatments. Tue-Sun 10am-10pm. C1 Area, Upper East Side Central Plaza, Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5139 5555) 朝阳区东四环北路阳光上东中环商业广场C1区 Salon 88 An international chain of hair salons offering consistent quality at economical prices. Cuts RMB 38 and color package RMB 188. Daily 9am-10pm. 1) 6712 6081. 118 Carrefour Fu Gui Yuan, Block 3, South DongHuaShi, Chongwen District.; 2) 394 Zhongtancun, East Xiaokou Town, Changping District. (139 1135 2069); 3) PJWJ 103, Huacai Center, 16 Guangshun Dajie, Chaoyang District. (136 0115 0326); 4) Daily 9am-10pm. 1/F, Chuangyijia Carrefour, 6B Beisanhuan Donglu, Chaoyang District. (139 1055 3427); 5) Daily 9am-10pm. Store 310, Tongzhou Carrefour, 48 Jiukeshu Xilu, Tongzhou District. (137 0117 9323); 6) Daily 9am-10pm. 109, Shuangjing Carrefour, Jiulong Shangsha, 31 Guangqu Lu, Chaoyang District. (139 1016 9259); 7) Daily 9am-10pm. 107-108, Maliandao Carrefour, 11 Maliandao Lu, Xuanwu District. (135 0101 1627); 8) Daily 9am-10pm. B1/F, 15-16, Zhongguancun Carrefour, Zhongguancun Xiqu, Haidian District. (136 0139 2562) 1) 崇文区东花市南里三区底商裙房富贵苑家乐福118号; 2) 昌平区东小口镇中滩村394号家乐福购物中心No.212; 3) 朝阳区广顺大街16号华彩中心PJWJ 103; 4) 朝阳区北三环东路乙6号创益佳家乐福一层; 5) 通州区九棵树西路48号通州家乐福310号;

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6) 朝阳区广渠路31号九龙商厦双井家乐福 109号; 7) 宣武区马连道路11号马连道家乐福107-108; 8) 海淀区中关村西区中关村家乐福地下一层15&16号 Taidian Massage Salon This Japanese brand brings 25 years of expertise to town with this massage spa in Jianwai Soho. Tai Dian’s business lines in Japan encompass beauty products, flowers and restaurants, so it’s no surprise to find Tai Dian products on sale at the Beijing salon – what we hadn’t anticipated was the complimentary salad, pasta, dessert and drink offered up with our massage. The therapists are very young, but highly trained and technically versatile. Daily 10am-2am. Rm 305, Bldg 6, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5869 8200, 5869 0707) 泰殿养生会馆, 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外 Soho6号楼305室 Toni & Guy British international hair salon chain offers haircuts for women for RMB 120 to 420. Perms and colorings cost RMB 380 to 580. 1) Unit 303, Tower C Office Bldg, Yintai Center, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (8517 1292); 2) Daily 10am-10pm. 3 Units, 3/F, Tower 8, South Area, The Village at Sanlitun, Chaoyang District. (6417 4188); 3) Daily 10am-9pm. 4/F Seasons Place Shopping Centre, 2 Jinchengfang Jie, Xicheng District. (6622 0316); 4) Daily 10am-9pm. Rm105-106, Block F, Sunshine 100, 2 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6585 9288); 5) Daily 10am-9pm. 1/F, Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an Jie, Dongcheng District. (8518 2646) 托尼英盖, 1) 朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心写字楼C座3层303商铺; 2) 朝阳区三里屯Village南区8号楼3层3单元; 3) 西城区金城纺街2号金融街购物中心四层 L404; 4) 朝阳区光华路2号阳光100国际公寓 F座105-106号; 5) 东城区东长安街1号东方广场汇贤豪庭一层 Viv International Medical Beauty Clinic Offers cosmetic surgery, professional skin care, dentistry and Chinese health and beauty treatments. Tue-Sun 9.30am6.30pm. 2/F, Bldg D, Global Trade Mansion, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6530 2348, fax 6586 9965) www.vivbeauty.com 名会红国际医疗美容诊所, 朝阳区光华路9号世贸国际公寓D座2层 Zen Spa This unique spa experience is set in a Chinese courtyard home. Treatments include body scrubs, wraps, facials, floral baths and massage; double rooms are available. Daily 11am-11pm. 1, 8A Xiaowuji Lu, Chaoyang District. (8731 2530, info@zenspa.com.cn) www.zenspa.com. cn 朝阳区小武基路甲8号1号院（东四环南路 15号出口）

CLOTHING Lee Cooper Europe’s first denim brand has beeen around since 1908. Its Beijing shop, like its UK shops, offers stylish,durable jeans,shoes and jackets. Daily 9.30am10pm. BB38, B1/F Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an Jie, Dongcheng District. (8518 6918) 东城区东长安街东方新天地地下１层BB38 NLGX A Beijing-based independent apparel brand and design community. The flagship based in Nanluoguxiang offers originally-designed NLGX fashion apparel and accessories, Chinese retro sneakers from Huiyi Huili and Shulong and various other products designed and produced by independent Chinese designers. Sun-Thu 9.30am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am-midnight. 33 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (6404 8088) www.nlgx.org 东城区南锣鼓巷33号 Plastered T-shirts Plastered take the diversity and beauty of everyday Beijing life, and turn it into funky, fun and ironic T-shirts and accessories. Daily 10am-10pm. 1) Unit D54, Main Second Street, Dashanzi Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (134 8884 8855); 2) 9 Yandai Xiejie, Xicheng District. (134 8884 8855); 3) 61 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (134 8884 8855) www.plastered.com.cn 1) 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号大山子艺术区中二街 D54; 2) 西城区烟袋斜街9号; 3) 东城区南锣鼓巷61号

HOME DECOR

Hunter Asia Pacific A professional Australian design and construction firm, headed by Olympic Village designer Jason Marriott. The interior design and construction team works on projects all over China, i.e. homes and apartments, offices, restaurant, bars, commercial spaces, hotels and large property developments. MonFri 9am-6pm. Rm 705, Tower B1, Golden Tower, 82 Dongsihuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District (6558 8829) 朝阳区东四环中路82号金长安B1座705室

IQ Air While little can be done about outdoor air pollution, we can certainly have an impact on the air we breathe inside. IQ Air has been providing air-cleaning solutions for more than 45 years. Swiss precision and technology go into every unit, creating an excellent price-to-performance ratio. 1) 4/F, 417 Seasons Place, 2 Jinchengfang Jie, Xicheng District. (6622 0179, info@iqair-china.com); 2) Rm 2201-02, Air China Plaza, 36 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District. (8447 5800, 400 650 1266, info@iqair-china.com); 3) 2LY105, Solana Lifestyle Shopping Center, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6768, info@iqair-china.com); 4) 4/F, Europlaza, 99 Yuxiang Lu, Tianzhu, Shunyi District. (6457 1922, info@iqairchina.com) www.iqair-china.com 1) 西城区金城坊街金融街417号四层; 2) 朝阳区霄云路36号国航大厦2201-02室; 3) 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾购物中心2LY1-05; 4) 顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场4层 Khawachen Sells high-end Tibetan rugs and offers made-to-order service. Daily 10am-10pm. BL2-03, Solana Lifestyle Shopping Park, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6311) 喀瓦坚西藏手工地毯, 朝阳区朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区BL2-03 Torana Gallery This popular carpet shop deals exclusively in carpets made of wool from Tibetan highland sheep and decorated with traditional regional motifs. The management insists that their carpets will last a lifetime and not fade after being washed. Daily 10.30am-6.30pm. 806 Danshui Xiaozhen, 60 Shunhuang Lu, Chaoyang District. (6465 3388 ext 5542) 图兰纳手工地毯, 朝阳区顺黄路60号淡水小镇806室 Villa Lifestyle They have the widest selection of BBQ’s and accessories, the Mosquito Magnet, trampolines, IQ Air Purifiers and more. Delivery and set-up are free and grills come with a one-year warranty. Daily 9am-6pm. 4/F, Euro Plaza, 99 Yuxiang Lu, Tianzhu Town, Shunyi District. (6457 1922, 8046 1260, www.villalifestyles.cn; info@villalifestyles.cn) 别墅生活方式, 顺义区顺义区天竺镇裕祥路99号欧陆广场4层

DINING DINING www.thebeijinger.com October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 33 Marvelous moussaka at Argo. See What's New: Restaurants, p37; photo by Judy Zhou thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;smags

D DINING

ining Take5 PATRIOTIC DISHES Emperor Hongwu’s Tofu 洪武豆腐 Hongwu doufu

This light but full-ﬂavored tofu dish reﬂects the dual personality of its creator, a monk-turnedleader of the rebel forces that founded the Ming dynasty. (Anhui province)

All month: Crab Season at Swissôtel.

Imperial Concubine Chicken

Get your claws into autumn’s delicacy. See listing, p35.

34 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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贵妃鸡 Guifei ji

Named after t he preferred concubine of Tang emperor Xuanzong, a whole chicken is ﬁrst deep-fried, then steamed in stock mixed with generous amou nts of rice w i ne, t he favorite tipple of his mistress. (Shandong province)

Lion’s Head Meatballs 清炖狮子头 qingdun shizitou

If an army does indeed march on its stomach, most grunts would go the extra mile for these delicate pork meatballs in a fragrant broth, named in honor of a revered Chinese general. (Jiangsu province)

Mao’s Red Braised Pork 毛氏红烧肉 Maoshi hongshao rou

The best-liked dish of Chairman Mao, who, despite doctor’s orders, gorged on this glossy, fatty meat throughout his later years, claiming that if it made him happy, it must be good for him (see Q&A, p38). (Hunan province)

Steamed Wuchang Fish 清蒸武昌鱼 qingzheng wuchang yu

Prized for its silky ﬂesh and unadorned ﬂavor, this Hubei freshwater bream, usual ly steamed with mushrooms and bamboo, was immortalized in verse by Mao Zedong in his poem entitled “Swimming.” (Henan province)

PHOTOS: EILEEN WEN MOONEY AND SHELLEY JIANG

rawling back through the tbj archives, two things struck me. #1: The sheer number of restaurants that have come and gone over the last few years. #2: This city has produced some of the most ridiculously named eateries in the world. Ever. Beijing’s burgeoning café culture gave us Remember Café (no, I don’t), Be There or Be Square, Café L’Imagination, Wudaokou’s Wango Coffee, and my favorite, Here (which, incidentally, was followed by a sister café called There). Just imagine the exasperating conversations: “Are you here?” No, I’m There!” and so on. Similarly, the dotcom boom was the dubious inspiration behind 2003’s hutong restaurant party@beijinghouse and the ludicrously monikered Guantanamera.com. Then there was a whole line in names that were misleadingly unappetizing – Hippopotamus Steak, Hubei joint Nine-Headed Bird (whose bitter rival was Nine-Headed Eagle – that would be a messy scrap), Golden Cat Dumpling, and a vegetarian restaurant simply called Cat. Some names were ﬁrmly in the “so bad they’re good” bracket – Tasty Taste for example, or Guangxi joint Walhalla – others just simply “so bad” – Thai restaurant Thaitanium vying with Italian joint Mediterraneo for that accolade. A certain degree of Darwinism has weeded out the real stinkers, and today we have the likes of Let’s Burger, Awfully Chocolate and Grandma’s Kitchen; names that are sassy, contemporary, and give us some idea of what we’re getting. But plenty of restaurateurs still succumb to the lure of the exotic. Take those places that inexplicably add an extra letter – Union Bar & Grille and Zen5es – and then those that seem to have taken one away, like Kyline Pavilion (I always picture the sign with an “S” hanging off upside down). And let’s not forget Huaiyang restaurant Z.Y.X. HYC. No, I didn’t just mash my ﬁst on the keyboard. Beijing’s hot pot places are another source of dubious nomenclature. Long Island Hot Pot sounds like it ought to come with a cocktail umbrella; Sandie Shui always makes me think of grit in the soup; and the bonkers I Rock My Pot sounds like a bad stoner movie. But the worst offenders are those that seem to reference throwing up, like Yunnan joint In and Out (let’s hope it refers to the speedy service), or fusion place Bloo, whose onomatopoeic name always makes me think of blowing chunks. There’s no question that the past eight years have seen huge strides in the city’s dining scene. And just like a Chinglish menu, there’s something distinctly charming in the way a modern metropolis like Beijing can still turn out restaurant names (and concepts) so daft it puts a smile on the face. Recently, I poked my head into the newly opened Kabab Classroom in Gulou, and browsed a menu designed like an exam paper. I gave the food a quick C minus and left scratching my head. What were they thinking? Tom O’Malley

All event listings are accurate at time of press and subject to change

For venue details, see directories, p41 Send events to listings@thebeijinger.com by

CULINARY SPECIALS

Mon-Fri Taverna Lunch Set Dine on Mediterranean faves like sautéed baby squid, suckling pig and pan-fried Dover sole. RMB 78 for two courses plus coffee or tea. (Add RMB 28 for a dessert.) Taverna at 1949–The Hidden City (6501-1949) Mon-Sat Meat & Wine Luncheon Menu Choose three courses including tuna carpaccio, 150g fillet steak with fries and crème brûlée. RMB 148+10%. 11.30am-2.30pm. The Meat & Wine Co. (6512 1761) Every Thu Bodega Fever Fill up on as much tapas as you can from Scarlett’s wide-ranging selection. RMB 88. 6-10pm. Scarlett, Hotel G (6552 2880) Every Sat Brazilian Feijoada at SALT Enjoy Brazil’s national dish, feijoada (a clay pot of slow-cooked beans, homemade sausage and pork). RMB 148. Noon-3pm. SALT (6437 8457) Every Sat & Sun Share & Taste at Sadler Create your own communal family meal of pizza, pasta and more from a special a la carte menu. RMB 88, free (kids under 6). 11am-4pm. Ristorante Sadler (6559 1399) Every Sun Hairy Crab Heaven Scuttle over to China Grill for a wide variety of seasonal hairy crab dishes. Park Hyatt (8567 1234) Half-Price Sunday Dinner 50% off your total food (and drinks) bill every Sunday evening at Scarlett. 6-10pm. Hotel G (6552 3600) All month Crab Season at Swissôtel Fresh water crab, baked crab with curry sauce and steamed crab with garlic are just three ways to enjoy the taste of the season at Happy Valley restaurant. Swissôtel (6553 2288 ext 2146)

DINING

Oct 3 Moon Festival Dinner View the full moon from Nuage’s terrace and enjoy complimentary Chinese tea and mooncakes with dinner. Nuage (6401 9581) Moon Festival Feast Red lanterns, moon viewing and a traditional feast in a Great Wall farmhouse. RMB 188, RMB 88 (children 4-12), free (kids under 4). Xiaolumian (6162 6506) Oct 12-23 World of Curry Spice up your life with a menu of authentic curries from around the globe. Coffee Garden, Kerry Centre Hotel (6561 8833 ext 40) Oct 12-Dec 6 Crustacean Sensation Hairy crabs from Yangcheng Lake are steamed and prepared with Remy Martin brandy. Horizon Restaurant, Kerry Centre Hotel (6561 8833) Oct 16-18 French Festival Enjoy French wine, cheese, bread, coffee and chocolate at this street festival on Wangfujing Avenue organised by the Olé French food chain. Free. (6588 8675) Oct 25 Roadhouse Grill Barbecued meats and veggies, fresh salads and homemade desserts under the Mutianyu Great Wall. Foot-stomping live music by the Woodie Alan Blues Band. RMB 168, RMB 88 (kids). 12-3pm. The Roadhouse at Mutianyu (61626506) Oct 26-Nov 1 Sichuan at the Sofitel Chef Paul Zhang from Sofitel Chengdu is in town cooking up a spicy storm everyday at VIC restaurant. Sofitel (8599 6666) Every Mon Mexican Mondays Arriba! Arriba! All Mexican dishes 15% off, including All-Star’s gigantic burritos and zingy fish tacos. 6pm-midnight. All-Star Bar & Grill (5905 6999)

Oct 12

Events continued on p38

Mon-Sat: Meat & Wine Luncheon Menu A rare treat. See listing, p35.

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October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 35 that’smags

DINING

What’s New RESTAURANTS

Macau Taste 澳门味道 Daily 11am-11pm. L-15A, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District (6415 1399)

朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village L-15A

Class By Stephanie Daily 7.30am-10pm. 1/F, Bldg D, Global Trade Center, 36 Beisanhuan Lu, Chaoyang District (5825 6778)

朝阳区北三环路36号环球贸易中心D座1层

The owners could have opened a Starbucks-style cafe and watched the money roll in, but instead, Class By Stephanie offers contemporary Western dining with dishes like spinach, bacon and blue cheese salad (RMB 35) and roast duck breast with port sauce and Tuscan beans (RMB 55). Regular cooking lessons and other instructional events provide a hint that Class by Stephanie is one of those increasingly common creatures: a decent mid-range Western restaurant whose core audience is curious, outward-looking locals as much as the regular expat crowd. Changed times indeed. Iain Shaw

Dining in Beijing is always a gamble, but this eatery has to be the ﬁrst with a working slot machine. A shrine to the “Vegas of the East,” the kitsch décor belies a menu that reads like a Hong Kong teahouse with a few Portuguese surprises. So you can bank on serviceable dim sum like luobo gao (steamed daikon cakes, RMB 30), dan ta (egg custard tarts, RMB 16) and a few curveballs like curry chicken or beef served in a blimp-like, imploding bread bowl (RMB 48). Though on the whole unexceptional, Macau Taste is worth a gamble if you’re hankering for a break while shopping in Sanlitun. Milk tea and a round of pineapple buns is a better (and cheaper) bet than coffee and cake at Starbucks beyond the fountains. Tom O’Malley

Swagat Daily 11am-10.30pm. B107, Landgent City Mall, 22 Dongsanhuan Lu, Chaoyang District (136 7132 5635, 189 1058 6060)

朝阳区东三环中路22号乐成中心下沉广场B107

Daily 10am-midnight. 3/F (above Luga’s Villa), 7 Sanlitun Beijie (behind 3.3 Shopping Center), Chaoyang District (6416 2575)

朝阳区三里屯北街7号3层

Following the success of Luga’s Pho Pho, the tireless proprietor has launched the next phase in his campaign for Beijing domination. The upper ﬂoor of Luga’s Villa is now a Thai restaurant, serving curries, stir-fries, soups and desserts. Our deep-fried shrimp cakes (RMB 32) were decent enough, and the yellow chicken curry (RMB 48) showed good depth of ﬂavor. Luga even tries his hand at fusion with red curry roast duck. As ever, it’s happy hour from 4-9pm daily. Iain Shaw

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PHOTOS: SONG YANG AND JIANG JUN

Luga’s Baan Thai

Just about the only Indian restaurant south of Guomao, Swagat is an inexpensive option for those in the area seeking a taste of the subcontinent. Starters include chicken from the tandoor oven (RMB 42) alongside numerous veggie options like dal makhani (RMB 38) and palak paneer (RMB 32). Curries range from mild tikka masalas to ﬁery vindaloos, so there is something for all tastes. The lunchtime buffet (RMB 38) should satisfy the most ravenous of diners. Pete Reilly

WHAT’S NEW: RESTAURANTS Peppes 派乐仕匹萨 Daily 11am-midnight. S4-34, 3/F, Bldg 4, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District (6415 0888)

朝阳区三里屯北路19号三里屯Village南区4号楼 3-4层

Orange Tree Bistro 橘子树西餐 Daily 11am-11.30pm. 27 Dashibei Hutong (near Yandai Xiejie, north of Houhai lake), Xicheng District (8401 7797)

西城区大石碑胡同27号（后海烟袋斜街附近）

As testament to the authenticity of Fish Nation's beer-battered cod and chips, the UK ambassador gets a banquet-load delivered to his Beijing home every year on the Queen's birthday. After half a decade and two restaurants, Fish Nation owner Jay is branching out with Orange Tree Bistro in a fetching Houhai courtyard. The ever-reliable chips, pizza, and salads are joined by appetizers, sandwiches, and grilled meats, like a juicy rack of pork ribs in a treacly, Texas-style glaze (RMB 88). Props are also due to the sausage platter: two bangers (we recommend the Argentinian beef), with chips or mash and a big dollop of sauerkraut (RMB 48). The Houhai prices might prove a little harder to swallow, but Jay is experienced enough to get things spot-on in time. Tom O’Malley

El Wajh Sun-Thu 5.30pm-10.30pm, Fri-Sat 5.30-11pm. Face Beijing, 26 Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang District (6551 6788)

朝阳区工体南路26号

The richly aromatic flavors of lamb, chicken, or fish tagines are the highlight of Face Beijing’s new Moroccan menu. These stews (RMB 88-128) are cooked for several hours over a simmering fire to let the subtle spices infuse into the meat. On our visit, though tempted by the couscous dishes and hummus appetizers, we plumped for the harira soup (RMB 45), a toothsome blend of lentils and tomatoes, as well as the tagine d’agneau aux pruneaux (RMB 128), a leg of lamb served with potatoes, peppers and a stewed prune sprinkled with sesame seeds. The mutton could have used a bit more cooking time, but the turmeric and parsley-infused sauce had us wiping the plate clean with delicious, piping-hot pita bread. Jerry Chan

Argo Daily 11.30am-11pm. 59 Wudaoying Hutong (100m west of Vineyard Cafe), Dongcheng District (8403 9748)

PHOTOS: JUDY ZHOU AND SONG YANG

东城区五道营胡同59号

Themed on the ship of Golden Fleece legend, this Greek restaurant represents another stride in Wudaoying Hutong’s quest to become the next Nanluogu Xiang. Their Mediterranean fare is technically sound, though the moussaka could use a bit more punch (RMB 60), and our sharing platter of baba ghanoush, tzatziki and hummus was crying out for some pita bread to mop it all up. But I’d return in a ﬂash for the bougiourdi (RMB 45), a rustic dish of feta, cheddar, tomato and peppers, baked until the top turns a bubbly golden brown. The owners have clearly parted with plenty of renminbi and the place looks genuinely nice for it, with a lovely beamed interior, well-drilled wait staff, smart table settings and a kitchen captained by Greek chef Kipouros Ilias. Comparisons will inevitably be drawn with its wonderful neighbour down the alley, but hey, the Vineyard Cafe is closed on Mondays, you know. Tom O’Malley www.thebeijinger.com

October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 37 that’smags

DINING

Once upon a time, there were three ﬂoundering Nordic pizza restaurants in Beijing. Then, one day, a bright young company took them over, closed two outlets, rebranded, and smartened up the remaining Sanlitun Village branch with contemporary décor, a kids’ play area and a new menu. Happily ever after? Well, our Heavy Heaven pizza (RMB 68) sported proper pepperoni and tasty chunks of beef; the Caesar salad (RMB 45) had fresh romaine lettuce cut to the right size, lots of crispy bacon and big slabs of Cajun chicken breast; and the onion rings with sour cream dip (RMB 18) were faultless. Very nice smoothies (RMB 24) rounded off a thoroughly pleasant meal on a terrace far enough from the shops to offer a bit of peace. I’ll certainly be back. Tom O’Malley

DINING

ALLEYWAY GOURMET

Events continued from p35

Doornail Dumplings (mending roubing 门钉肉饼) So named because of their resemblance to big brass doornails, these hearty meat pies (RMB 2.5) are crammed with ground beef, carrot, onions and ginger in a rich gravy. The trick is to slurp up the oily sauce as you bite into them, but everyone drips a bit onto the plate, which, alarmingly, congeals in moments to solid, translucent fat. Just imagine what they’re doing to your arteries. Try it: Old Beijing Mending Roubing Restaurant (老北京门钉肉饼) is at the far north end of Gulou Xidajie.

Free Vietnamese Wontons Complimentary Vietnamese spring rolls with every lunch or dinner purchased. Nuage (6401 9581) Hairy Crab Winemaker Dinner Partake in this season’s seafood delicacy. 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm. Celestial Court, St. Regis (6480 6688 ext 2460) Iberico Ham at Lan Enjoy eight tapas dishes based on three kinds of Spanish ham, including jamón ibérico. Get a free bottle of Spanish red wine with each tapas set. Lan Club (5109 6012) Journey of French Taste Dishes from Brittany come under the spotlight this month. RMB 308 for four-course set menu. Maison Boulud (6559 9200) Lunch it! at Scarlett Pick one main course from the menu and enjoy a buffet of salads, cold cuts, and deserts, rounded off with coffee or tea. RMB 98. 11.30am-3pm. Scarlett, Hotel G (6552 2880) Mosto Autumn Menu Look out for new dishes like swordfish carpaccio and white peppered salmon with tequila-lime sauce. Mosto (5208 6030) Raspberry Cakes at Comptoirs Indulge in a new range of raspberry-topped pastries. RMB 38-138. Comptoirs de France (5135 7645) Sweet Deal at Sugar Bar From 8pm-midnight, selected desserts like marble cheesecake, white forest cake, lemon meringue and tiramisu are half-price. RMB 12-14. Sugar Bar at 1949–The Hidden City (6501 1949)

BRUNCH AND BUFFET

Taipei Fried Chicken (Taiwan yansu ji 台湾盐酥鸡) This little snack stall cooks up fried chicken better than any fast-food joint. RMB 10 gets you a paper bag full of popcorn-sized hunks of crisp chicken breast, double-fried with spinach and soft cloves of garlic that taste like sweet candy. Utterly addictive. Try it: On the corner of Nanluogu Xiang and Xiao Ju’er Hutong

Try it: From Houhai, head north across Yinding Qiao and take the ﬁrst hutong on the left, following it for east for 50m.

38 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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PHOTOS: TOM O’MALLEY

Baked Sesame Buns (shaobing 烧饼) The shaobing ( R M B 0.7 ) at Long xingsheng Snack Shop in t he hutongs nort h of Houha i are god l ike. Fresh ly baked every 30 minutes, they’re toasty warm with a soft, layered inside and a charred sesame-seed shell that ﬂakes apart as you chew. To keep you going till dinner, join the queue and order them jia rou – ﬁlled with slow-cooked mutton (RMB 4) – the fattier the better.

Mon-Fri Simply Dim Sum Lunch Chef Joyce Zhu lays out a hearty dim sum feast to remind you about life’s simple pleasures. RMB 88+15%. Noon-3pm. Zen5es, Westin Beijing Chaoyang (5922 8880) Mon-Sat Aroma at the Ritz-Carlton Every day is a feast at Aroma, featuring Southeast Asian, Chinese, Japanese and Western buffet treats plus mouthwatering deserts. RMB 168+15%. 11.30am-2.30pm. Ritz-Carlton (5908 8161) Every Tue All About Pasta & Wine Gorge on a mouthwatering selection of all-you-can-eat pasta, plus free flow of red and white house wine. RMB 148. 6-10pm. Scarlett, Hotel G (6552 2880) Every Fri Eating with Nemo Dive into fresh seafood – king crabs, oysters, lobster, caviar and salmon. Have it steamed, fried or roasted to your taste at live cooking stations. RMB 288+15% (including local beer), RMB 120+15% extra for free flow of wine. 6-10pm. Elements, Hilton Chaoyang (5865 5020) Every Fri & Sat Greenfish Seafood Buffet Get wrecked in a briny sea of crabs, scallops, oysters and lobster, where the wine flows like the tide. Every guest gets a serving of Boston lobster. RMB 288+15% (including free-flowing wine and soft drinks), kids half-price. 6-9.30pm. Greenfish, Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street (6601 6666 ext 6255) Every Sat Eatery Saturday Brunch Go west to this Summer Palace

retreat for a tempting spread of pan-fried dim sum, Japanese tempura, a tandoori station and other international dishes. RMB 368+15% (includes free flow of PiperHeidsieck Champagne, cocktails and wine). 11.30am-3pm. Eatery, Four Points by Sheraton Beijing Haidian (8610 8889) Sealicious Lunch Buffet Seafood barbecue, crab and oyster stations and a complimentary glass of sparkling wine. RMB 328+15%. 11.30am-2.30pm. Taste, The Westin Beijing Chaoyang (5922 8880) Every Sat & Sun Seafood Night at East 33 A royal spread of king crabs, two types of oysters (try the ones from Fujian province), salt-cooked scallops, Norwegian salmon and more. Save room for the fresh Boston lobster – each diner is entitled to one. RMB 298+15% (including soft drinks). 6-10pm. Raffles Hotel (6526 3388 ext 5171) Every Sun All-American Country & Western Buffet Mosey on down for an evening of baby back ribs and fried chicken, cornbread and rock salt potatoes. Finish off with chocolate macadamia cheese pie. RMB 158+15%. 4.30-9pm. Café 99, The Regent Beijing (8522 1888 ext 5650) Brunch at Boulud A brunch for epicures that includes the (in)famous DB Burger, filled with braised short ribs and foie gras. Kids under six eat free. RMB 98-238 plus an RMB 35 supplement for the burger and 5% service charge. 11am-4pm. Maison Boulud (6559 9200) Bubbalicious An international assortment of cold and hot dishes and desserts, along with juice and smoothie stations. A kids’ corner entertains the young’uns. RMB 368+15% (includes unlimited Veuve Clicquot champagne, beer and wine), RMB 149+15% (kids 6-12), free (kids 0-5). 11.30am-3.30pm. Westin Beijing Chaoyang (5922 8880) FIZZtastic Champagne Brunch Beijing’s newest Sunday bubbly brunch ups the stakes with premium Taittinger Champagne on free-flow and a lip-smacking array of international gastronomy. The “Kidz Paradise” features a special food buffet, cartoons and toys for the tots. RMB 368+15%. 11.30am3pm. Hilton Wangfujing (5812 8888 ext 8411) inspiRED Sunday Bubbly Brunch Travel the culinary world with caviar, live seafood, tartare stations, make-your-own sushi rolls, teppanyaki ice cream and much more. RMB 368+15% (includes free flow of Pommery Pop champagne), RMB 148+15% (kids younger than 12), free (kids under 6). 11.30am3pm. The Westin Beijing Financial Street (6629 7810) SALT Seasonal Brunch SALT’s bubbly brunch welcomes new breakfast dishes like fresh polenta with bacon, truffles and poached egg. Two new cocktails – Coffee Martini and Sake Capirinha – will keep you toasty. Reservations encouraged. RMB 288 (includes three courses and free-flow drinks). Noon-4pm. SALT (6437 8457) Sureño Sunday Brunch Lazy Sunday dining on Mediterranean treats like bruschetta, baked eggs with smoked salmon, pasta, grilled meat and chicken and hangover-busting jugs of sangria. RMB 268. Noon-3pm. Sureño (6410 5240)

DINING

Oct 26-Nov 1: Sichaun at the Soﬁtel Visiting chef Paul Zhang brings the peppercorns. See listing, p35.

All month Catch Me If You Can Crab Buffet Flower crab, flesh crab, bread crab and mud crab – catch them if you can at Vasco’s buffet every evening. RMB 188+15%. 5.309.30pm. Hilton Wanfujing (5812 8888 ext 8411)

BEVERAGE SPECIALS Mon-Fri Afternoon Tea on the Terrace A tasty selection of Italian finger sandwiches, desserts and cookies, plus an unlimited selection of gourmet tea or coffee. RMB 58. 2.30-7.30pm. Invito Café (5905 6906) Every Wed Wednesday Wine Tasting October’s wine journey features bottles from France, Argentina and Chile, with free selected tapas. RMB 150. 8-11pm. Enoteca (6587 1578) Every Thu Wine Club Discover some of the world’s finest wine regions with sommelier Julia Zhu. Includes five wines, expert commentary and canapes. RMB 150+15%. One East, Hilton Beijing (5865 5030) Thu-Fri Black Sesame Wine ‘n Dine A six-course Chinese dinner is prepared in front of you and paired with two New World wines. RMB 250. 7-10pm. Black Sesame Kitchen (136 9147 4408) www.blacksesamekitchen.com Lobby Wine Tasting Savor a wide selection of imported bottles in the elegant Lobby Lounge. RMB 138+15% for free flow of wine. 6-8pm. InterContinental Beijing Beichen (8437 1288) Every Fri Friday Wine Fever Order a bottle from 15 selected wines priced at RMB 200 and tuck into a free flow of tapas. 8-12pm. Enoteca (6587 1578) Every Sat Perrier Jouet Afternoon Tea Champers, freshly baked scones and delectable savories. RMB 228+15% (includes glass of champagne and free flow of tea). 2-5pm. Exchange, The Westin Beijing Chaoyang (5922 8880)

Every Sat & Sun Afternoon Tea in the Sky Sip tea, munch tasty pastries, cakes and desserts, and marvel at the view from the 63th floor of the Park Hyatt. RMB 298+15% for two. 2-6pm. The Lounge, Park Hyatt (8567 1796) Champagne High Tea at Centro Splash out with three brands of Champagne, specialty teas and delectable sweets like profiteroles with vanilla cream and fresh strawberries. RMB 198. 2-5pm. Centro (6561 8833 ext 42) Every Sun Sunday BBQ at Xiu Endless flow of grilled meats, mojitos, margaritas, wines and beer at Beijing’s hottest hotel bar. RMB 168. 3-7pm. (8567 1108)

COOKING CLASSES Oct 8 Serve the People Cooking Class Jen Lin-Liu herself will be teaching recipes from her book, including red-braised pork and candied apples. 1-4pm. RMB 300. Reservations required. Black Sesame Kitchen (136 9147 4408) www.blacksesamekitchen.com. Every Thu Lunchtime Cooking Class Study specific cooking techniques at a weekly lunchtime class with the master chefs who taught founder Jen Lin-Liu. Reservations required. RMB 250. 11am-1.30pm. Black Sesame Kitchen (136 9147 4408) www.blacksesamekitchen.com Every Sat Black Sesame Saturday Gourmet Learn the secrets of Chinese cooking in a courtyard kitchen. Includes demonstration, hands-on cooking, and a leisurely afternoon lunch. Reservations required. RMB 300. 1-4pm. Black Sesame Kitchen (136 9147 4408) www.blacksesamekitchen.com All month Chinese Regional Cuisine Discover the art of chopping, marinating and stir-frying. Featured cuisines include Cantonese, Hunan, Sichuan or Beijing homestyle. Classes also devoted to “cooking with tea,” feng shui cooking and more. RMB 220, RMB 200 (members). The Hutong (6404 3355, 8915 3613) www.the-hutong.com

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DINING

BEIJING EATS

PRESERVED FOR POSTERITY Discover Beijing’s oldest snack eateries under one roof by Eileen Wen Mooney

ine Gates Snacks ( Jiumen Xiaochi) is a collection of Beijing’s oldest and most famous eateries in a traditional courtyard house near Houhai lake. The establishment of Nine Gates Snacks was a call to preserve Beijing’s old snack foods. The following are some of the time-honored eateries that have regrouped at Jiumen Xiaochi: Baodu Feng 爆肚冯: The Feng family has been making flash-boiled tripe since the Qing dynasty. The current Mr. Feng’s grandfather operated his tripe stall on the street near the Drum Tower under the bridge, and the stall was often frequented by the bannermen, palace eunuchs and Manchu officials. The tripe is served with a dipping sauce made with the family’s secret recipe, which includes sesame paste and fermented beancurd. Chatang Li 茶汤李: Specializes in tea soup (茶汤 chatang), including youcha (油茶). The main ingredient in making chatang is millet flour (糜子面 meizi mian). Almond tea (杏仁茶 xingren cha), which consists of ground almonds mixed with millet flour, is one example of sweet tea soup.

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De Sheng Zhai 德盛斋: Famous for its shaobing and sour bean juice (豆汁 douzhi). Doufunao Bai 豆腐脑白: The Bai family specializes in soft beancurd served with a thick sauce made from lamb and mushroom stock and accompanied by wood ear and day lily. Garnished with crushed garlic just before serving. En Yuan Ju 恩怨居: Famous for chao geda, pea-sized pasta stir-fried with minced beef and diced carrots, green soybeans and scallion. Hundun Hou 馄饨侯 : Special izes in wontons served in a clear broth. The choice of ﬁllings includes the traditional all-pork; the “three ﬂavor” combination of shrimp, pork and sea cucumber; or vegetarian. Nailao Wei 奶酪魏 : Famous for the yogurt-like custard, which is made without fermentation from milk and rice wine, and chilled before serving. Niangao Qian 年糕钱: The Qian family is known for their sticky rice cakes. Some are

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made with layers of red bean paste; others are rolled like jelly rolls and covered with toasted sesame seeds or ground yellow soybean. Xian’rbing Zhou 馅儿饼周: Well-known for baked bread stuffed with braised mutton or beef. Yangtou Ma 羊头马: Known for cold cuts made from boiled lamb’s head. The sliced meat can either be eaten plain, sprinkled with ground Sichuan peppercorn and salt, or stuffed in shaobing. Zhagao Xin 炸糕辛: Well-known for its deep-fried sticky rice cakes. Jiumen Xiaochi Daily 10am-10pm. 1 Xiaoyou Hutong, Xicheng District (6402 5858) 九门小吃，西城区孝友胡同1号

Excerpted from Beijing Eats: A Food Lover’s Companion to China’s Culinary Capital, by Eileen Wen Mooney, published by Immersion Guides. To order a copy, call 5820 7101 or e-mail distribution@immersionguides. com. See www.immersionguides.com for more info.

DINING DIRECTORY INDEX Golden Peacock Dai Ethnic Flavour Yunnan Golden Spoons Taiwanese Food - Taiwan Grandma’s Kitchen - American Grange - Steakhouses Greek Delicacy - Mediterranean Greenfish - Fusion Green T. House - Contemporary Cuisine Green T House Living - Contemporary Cuisine Haidilao Hot Pot - Hot Pot Haiku by Hatsune - Japanese Hai Wan Ju - Beijing Hatsune - Japanese Hawka - Southeast Asian Hazara - Indian/Pakistani Herbal Cafe - Cantonese Home Sweet Home - Taiwan Hong Jing Yu - Sichuan Horizon - Cantonese Hot Bean Cooperative - Beijing Hujiang Xiangmanlou - Shanghai Hutong Pizza - Pizza IF Juice - Cafes & Teahouses IFW (International Food Warehouse) Contemporary Cuisine Igosso - Italian I Rock My Pot - Hot Pot Isshin Japanese Sushi Restaurant Japanese Jaan - French Jade Garden - Shanghai Jewel - Cantonese Jia - Cantonese Jia 21 Hao - Yunnan Jin Ding Xuan - Cantonese Jin Yang Restaurant - Shanxi & Sha’anxi Jiumen Xiaochi - Beijing Jiu Yuan - Japanese Juliette’s - French Kafe Peranakan - Southeast Asian Kagen - Japanese Kagoya Hachibay - Japanese Kaorou Wan - Beijing Karaiya Spice House - Hunan & Hubei Kempi Deli - Bakeries & Delis Kiev - Russian Kiosk - Bakeries & Delis Kranzler’s - Buffets The Kro’s Nest - Pizza Kuxia Yizu - Sichuan La Bamba - Central & South American La Fattoria - Italian La Gauche - French La Mansarde - French Lan Club - Contemporary Cuisine Lan Na Thai - Thai Lantung - Thai La Nuova Vita - Italian La Pizza - Pizza La Taverne - French Latin Grillhouse - Central & South American Lemongrass Thai and Indian Restaurant - Thai Lemon Leaf - Thai Le Petit Gourmand - French Le Petit Paris - French Le Pré Lenôtre - French Let’s Burger - American Li Jia Cai - Imperial Lin’s Kitchen - Sichuan Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant - Beijing Duck Little Birch Western Restaurant - Russian Little Italy - Italian Le Little Saigon - Fusion Little Sheep - Hot Pot Liujia Guo - Hunan & Hubei The Loft - Hot Pot Longshun Yuan Mala Xiangguo - Sichuan Lord of Salt - Sichuan Lotus in Moonlight - Vegetarian Lotus Root - Thai Luga’s Pho Pho - Vietnamese Lu Lu - Shanghai Made in China - Beijing Duck Made in Heaven - Shanxi & Sha’anxi Maison Boulud à Pékin - French Makye Ame - Tibetan Malacca Legend - Southeast Asian Mala Youhuo (Spice Spirit) - Sichuan MARE - Spanish Matsuko - Japanese Meeting Point - Italian Mei Mansion - Shanghai Mei Wei Zhen - Imperial Meng Shifu’s Health Food - Homestyle Metro - Italian Miao Minority Restaurant - Guizhou & Guangxi Middle 8th Restaurant - Yunnan Mirch Masala - Indian/Pakistani Molika - Japanese Monsoon - Buffets

Dining Directory Index comtimues on p44

DINING

1001 Nights - Middle Eastern Absolute Cate - Shanghai Afunti - Xinjiang & Muslim Agrilandia - Italian Agua - Spanish Ajitoku - Japanese Alameda - Central & South American Alamuhan - Xinjiang & Muslim Alba Restaurant - Italian All-Star Sports Bar & Grill - American American Steak & Eggs - American An Die An Niang - Shandong Annie’s - Italian Aria - European Aroma - Buffets Ashandi - Spanish Asia Bistro - Southeast Asian Assaggi - Italian The Astor Grill - American Athena - Mediterranean Ba Guo Bu Yi - Sichuan Banana Leaf - Thai Baoyuan Jiaozi Wu - Dumplings Barolo - Italian Baweifang - Japanese Bei - Contemporary Cuisine Beihai Dao - Korean Bellagio - Taiwan Bento & Berries - Bakeries & Delis Bianyifang - Beijing Duck Blue Frog - American Blu Lobster - Contemporary Cuisine Bocata - Cafes & Teahouses The Bookworm - European The Bookworm - Cafes & Teahouses Boucherie Michel - Bakeries & Delis Brasserie Flo - French The Bridge Cafe - Cafes & Teahouses Budapest Hungarian Restaurant European Cafe Cha - Buffets Cafe de la Poste - French Cafe Sambal - Southeast Asian Cafe Yo - Cafes & Teahouses Cafe Zarah - Cafes & Teahouses Carmen – Spanish Celestial Court - Cantonese Cepe - Italian Charcoal Bar - Korean Chef Too - American Chenghuangmiao Xiaochi - Shanghai China Grill - Contemporary Cuisine China Lounge - Fusion Chongqing Fandian - Sichuan Chuan Ban - Sichuan Chynna - Contemporary Cuisine Ciro’s Pomodoro - Italian City Wall Bistro - Buffets Comptoirs de France - Bakeries & Delis The CourtYard - Fusion Crepanini - French Crescent Moon Muslim Restaurant Xinjiang & Muslim CRU Steakhouse - Steakhouses Daccapo - Italian Da Dong Roast Duck - Beijing Duck Da Giorgio - Italian Dahr Khan Bar & Restaurant - Mongolian Dali Courtyard - Yunnan Danieli’s - Italian Danshui - Taiwan Dareen Coffee - Middle Eastern Delicatessen - Bakeries & Delis The Deluxe Restaurant - Cantonese Ding Ding Xiang - Hot Pot Dini’s Kosher Restaurant - Middle Eastern Din Tai Fung - Dumplings Domus - Contemporary Cuisine Dong Lai Shun - Hot Pot Drei Kronen 1308 Brauhaus - German Drum and Gong Fusion Restaurant Sichuan Duck de Chine - Beijing Duck East 33 - Fusion e.a.t Cafe & Bar - Cafes & Teahouses The Eatery - Contemporary Cuisine Ecco - Italian Element Fresh - American Elements - Cantonese The Elephant - Russian Fangshan Restaurant - Imperial Feiteng Yuxiang - Sichuan Fenghuang Zhu - Yunnan Fish Nation - European Fuhua Feiniu - Hot Pot Fu Jia Lou - Beijing Full Moon - Cantonese Ganges Indian Restaurant - Indian/ Pakistani Ganglamedo - Tibetan Garden Court - Buffets German Food Center - Bakeries & Delis Gin - Japanese Ginkgo - French Golden Jaguar - Buffets

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GRAPE PRESS

Vin de Chine

WILL CHINA BE A MAJOR WINE PLAYER?

DINING

by Edward Ragg and Fongyee Walker

ast year, a group of Masters of Wine predicted that in 50 years, China will become a major ﬁne wine producer. The story, reported on Decanter.com, was met by cries of disbelief. China may be the sixth largest global producer, but can it produce high-quality wines on any scale? Climate is a serious hurdle. Much of China is too humid for optimum wine-grape growing, and rain at the wrong times is commonplace. Even in the drier north, rain usually arrives during harvest – resulting in

dilute, watery wines. Add to the moisture the daily summer temperatures exceeding 30 degrees Celsius, and you have a breeding ground for rot. This pressures growers to pick early. Early harvesting yields unripe fruit, which lends unflattering stalky odors to some wines, especially reds. T he g rape-g row i ng centers of Shandong, Yunnan, Hebei and Shanxi all suffer from these problems. In Xinjiang and Gansu, there are extra challenges. Although these two provinces are much drier, frost frequently damages their vines. Manually burying vines is required, as in northern China. But freezing can also occur when vines need to flower, and frost in October is not uncommon. Again, early-picked grapes are often unripe. T he ne x t hu r d le i s agriculture. The lessons of international viticulture are not yet established in China. Over-irrigation and overuse of pesticides, necessary for the production of other crops, wreaks havoc in vineyards. Nevertheless, China has come a long way from the vineyard expansions of the late 1980s when it was first suggested that grapes replace grain for alcohol production. Given the obstacles, what some wineries have achieved is encouraging. But what’s Chinese wine like? One issue is deciphering what counts as a “Chinese wine.” The majority of domestic wines are blended with bulk imports. Often, a “Chinese wine” is one that may only have been bottled in China. New labeling legislation will not change this practice, but is beginning to treat wine as wine and not just another “food product.”

2006 Dragon Seal Cabernet Sauvignon, Hebei (RMB 79) Dragon Seal is a fairly reliable larger-scale producer. Dark purple-red, this wine has savory blackcurrant fruit and moderate oak, whilst the palate shows medium-high chewy tannins and decent acidity. Do try the 2006 vintage. The NV Sparkling Chardonnay is also worth sampling. (Available from Olé, 7-11, Jenny Lous and multiple outlets) One to drink 2005 Grace Vineyard Premium Chardonnay, Shanxi (RMB 130) Grace continues to produce well-made, reliable wines. This Chardonnay is medium-gold with an attractive lemon nose and abundant French oak. The palate has pleasant fruit, medium acidity and good length. Immensely

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Edward Ragg and Fong yee Walker run Dragon Phoenix Fine Wine Consulting, Beijing’s ﬁrst independent wine consultancy (www.longfengwines.com) and are authors of the Dragon Phoenix Wine Blog.

food-friendly. Look out for Tasya’s wines: Deep Blue and Chairman’s Reserve. (Available from Torres China; contact Jenny Zhang at 5165 5519 or jenny@torres.com.cn) One to savor 2007 Silver Heights “Family Reserve,” Mount Helan, Ningxia (RMB 228) Made by Bordeaux-trained Emma Gao, this wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and the “elusive” Cabernet Gemischt. Darkish purple-red, the nose has attractive black fruits with a ripe green-pepper note and distinct American oak. The palate has pleasant fruit, medium tannins and vanilla oak. Knocks the socks off generic red Bordeaux. Look out for Gao’s other wine, “The Summit.” (Available from Torres China; contact Jenny Zhang at 5165 5519 or jenny@torres.com.cn)

PHOTOS: JUDY ZHOU AND PROVIDED BY TORRES

SELECT SIPS One to quaff

Certainly, winemaking is big business here. In 2008, China produced over 500 million liters of wine, but cannot supply enough to meet demand, hence the bulk imports. The biggest producers are Changyu, Great Wall – part of agricultural giant COFCO – and Dynasty. Last year, Dynasty claimed revenue of RMB 257 million. Wineries to watch in the future include Silver Heights (Ningxia), Grace Vineyard (Shanxi) and Dragon Seal (Hebei); they use only grapes grown locally. Then there’s the Sino-French Experimental Vineyard, a state-of-the-art government faci l it y located beyond the Great Wall, and Chateau Bolongbao, an organic winery to the southwest of Beijing. In another 60 years, who knows where Chinese wine will be?

DINING

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DINING

CHEF’S SELECTION

Bertrand Combe Executive chef, Brasserie Flo

A native of Marseille, Bertrand Combe has worked in Italy, England, Switzerland and the Caribbean. He joined Brasserie Flo in April 2008. Special Occasion: Jaan “The soufﬂé with Grand Marnier sauce is delicious. I had my interview here with Flo’s manager Jimmy Loh, so it’s a special place for me. It’s very elegant, and the service is generally excellent.” A Quick Bite: Element Fresh “This sort of place isn’t my usual favorite, but it’s convenient and the food is consistent and fresh. I usually eat the Cobb salad. It’s huge, so sometimes I share it with my wife.” Top Chinese: Da Dong Roast Duck “I think Da Dong is one of the best Chinese chefs in Beijing, if not all of China. I always order the new dishes on his menu, just to see what kind of creative ideas he comes up with. It’s a very inspirational place for me.” Guilty Pleasure: Brunch at Soﬁtel “ I don’t get many Sundays off, but when I do I go here. The dessert selection is wonderful, but I always eat far too much, and have to spend the rest of the day lying down.” Best Value: Noodle Loft “The portions are huge and the food always tastes good. If you sit at the counter, you have the pleasure of seeing the chefs working on their noodles. It reminds of pasta making when I was in Italy.”

Morel’s - European Morio J-Cuisine - Japanese Moro - African Mosto - Contemporary Cuisine Mughal’s Beijing - Indian/Pakistani Muse Parisian Vietnamese Brasserie Vietnamese Noble Court - Cantonese No More Bunz Hotdog - Bakeries & Delis No Name Restaurant - Yunnan Noodle Bar - Beijing Noodle Loft - Shanxi & Sha’anxi Nuage - Vietnamese Nyonya Kitchen - Southeast Asian Oh Jook Hun - Korean Olas Tapas Café - Spanish Olio - Fusion The Olive - Mediterranean One East - American The Orchard - European O Sole Mio - Italian Panino Teca - Cafes & Teahouses Paper - Contemporary Cuisine Paulaner Brauhaus - German Pearl - Cantonese Peppes Pizza - Pizza Peter’s Tex-Mex Grill - American Piazza Italia - Italian Pink Loft - Thai Pizza Buona - Pizza Prego – Italian Private Kitchen 44 - Guizhou & Guangxi Pullman Steak - Steakhouses Pure Lotus Vegetarian - Vegetarian Purple Haze - Thai Purple Haze Bistro - Southeast Asian Pyro Pizza - Pizza Qi - Contemporary Cuisine Quan Ju De - Beijing Duck Qu Na’r - Zhejiang Rainbow - Yunnan Ras Ethiopian Cuisine - African Red Capital Club - Imperial Red Orange - Buffets Ristorante Sadler - Italian Rumi - Middle Eastern Sa Lang Bang – Korean Sadler Cantina - Italian SALT - Contemporary Cuisine Sandie Shui - Yunnan Sapori d’Italia - Italian Saveurs de Corée - Korean Scarlett - Contemporary Cuisine Schiller’s - German Schindler’s Anlegestelle (Schindler’s Docking Station) - German Schindler’s Tankstelle - German Schoolhouse Canteen - Cafes & Teahouses Seasons Cafe/Creperie - French Senses - Buffets Serve the People - Thai Shaguo Ju - Beijing Shang Palace - Cantonese Shash - Middle Eastern Shin Yeh - Taiwan Shiro Matsu - Japanese Sim Sim - Middle Eastern Sizzler - American Slim Taste Noodles & Bar - Taiwan Solaire Bistro - European Sorabol - Korean Souk - Middle Eastern The Source - Sichuan South Beauty - Sichuan

AFRICAN North African cuisine leans towards Middle Eastern, while West African emphasizes starches, gravies, spices and grilled meats. Moro Flavorful tagines, couscous and tapas, all made with market fresh, authentic ingredients. But with only 28 seats in this blink-and-you-will-miss-it spot, reservations are a must. Tue-Sun noon-2pm, 6-11pm. 8 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (8448 8250, 130 1112 8039) 朝阳区新源南路8号

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plasma screens and tons of sound equipment, All-Star supplies sports fanatics with fine burgers, tacos, pastas and steaks. Mon-Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 11am-2am. Bldg 5, 1/F, Solana Shopping Mall, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6999) www.all-starclub.com 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区 5-1

Ras Ethiopian Cuisine Sit at a mesob and eat injera bread dipped in kitfo, ye’siga we’t and ye’shiro while you enjoy live dance and music performances and a coffee ceremony. Mon-Fri 10.30am-10.30pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm. 7 Sanlitun Lu (next to the Friendship Supermarket), Chaoyang District. (6468 6053) 埃塞俄比亚餐厅, 朝阳区三里屯北路7号(小友谊超市旁)

AMERICAN This culinary tradition prizes portion size almost as much as it does ketchup, particularly when it comes to hamburgers, steaks and egg-based breakfasts. All-Star Sports Bar & Grill Boasting 65

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South Silk Road - Yunnan Stadium Dog - American Steak Exchange - Steakhouses Still Thoughts Vegetarian Restaurant - Vegetarian Sugar Bar - Cafes & Teahouses Summer Palace - Huaiyang Sun Palace - Cantonese Suraon - Korean Sureño - Mediterranean Suzuki - Japanese The Taj Pavilion - Indian/Pakistani Takenosuke - Japanese Takewaka - Japanese The Tandoor - Indian/Pakistani Tanzhou Jiulou - Hunan & Hubei Tapas Spanish Bar and Restaurant Spanish Taverna - Mediterranean Tavola - Italian Teppanyaki Show Bar - Japanese TGI Friday's - American The Coffee Lobby - Cafes & Teahouses The Roadhouse at Mutianyu - Beijing The Side Saddle - Central & South American The Village - Middle Eastern Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q - American Todai - Japanese Tokugawa-Ya - Japanese Tong He Ju - Shandong Toscana Italian Restaurant - Italian Trattoria La Gondola – Italian Treats - Bakeries & Delis The Tree - Pizza Turkish Mom - Middle Eastern Tutu Mongolian Restaurant - Mongolian Union Bar & Grille - American Utopia Restaurant - Shandong Va Piano - Italian Vasco’s - Fusion Va Va Voom - Vietnamese Vegan Hut - Vegetarian Veg-on - Vegetarian Very Sichuan Restaurant - Sichuan VIC - Buffets Village Cafe - Cafes & Teahouses Vineyard Cafe - European Votaro - Japanese Wen Ding Xiang Chongqing Chicken Pot - Hot Pot Wenyu Nailao - Beijing White Nights - Russian Xian Bai Wei - Shanxi & Sha’anxi Xiangyang Xiaozhu - Vegetarian Xiaolumian - Shanxi & Sha’anxi Xihu Chuan Cai - Zhejiang Xinchuan Mianguan - Sichuan Xinjiang Islam Restaurant - Xinjiang & Muslim Xinjiang Red Rose - Xinjiang & Muslim Xu Xiang Zhai Vegetarian Restaurant - Vegetarian The Yard - Southeast Asian Yong Sheng Zhai - Xinjiang & Muslim Yotsuba - Japanese Yuebin Restaurant - Beijing Yuemingyuan Teahouse - Cafes & Teahouses Yuxiang Renjia - Sichuan Za’atar - Middle Eastern Zen5es - Cantonese Z.Y.X. HYC - Huaiyang

American Steak & Eggs Affordable meals from classic American diner breakfasts to fancier dinner specials. Bottomless cups of coffee and North American style

give it a distinctly authentic feel. Voted “Outstanding Value” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Mon-Fri6.30am-8pm, Sat-Sun7am-8pm. 6 Wudinghou Jie, Financial Street, Xicheng District. (6629 0008/0006); 2) Mon-Fri 7.30am-midnight, Sat-Sun 6.30am-midnight. Yuyang Lu (between Gahood Villa and Capital Paradise), Baixinzhuang, Houshayu, Shunyi District. (8046 7118); 3) Daily 6.30am-midnight. Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai (directly north of the Friendship Store, one traffic light west of Silk Market), Chaoyang District. (6592 8088/8788) www.steakeggs. com.cn 喜来中北美西餐, 1) 西城区金融街武定侯街6号; 2) 顺义区后沙峪镇白辛庄村榆阳路嘉浩别墅附近; 3) 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街(友谊商店北面, 秀水西边第一个红绿灯)

Blue Frog Massive portions will give Americans the hometown fuzzies. Voted “Outstanding Burger” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 10am-1am. L312, Europlaza, 99 Yuxiang Lu, Tianzhu Zhen, Shunyi District. (8046 6337); 2) Daily 10am2am. S4-30, 3/F, Bldg 4, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6417 4030) www.bluefrog.com.cn 蓝蛙, 1) 顺义区天竺镇欲翔路99号北京欧陆时尚购物中心(欧陆广场)L312室; 2) 朝阳区三里屯北路19号三里屯Village4号楼3层S4-30

Chef Too Billing itself as a friendly neighborhood joint, Chef Too impresses with its smart interior, well-trained staff and top-notch Australian steaks. A reasonably priced wine list showcases small American vineyards. Tue-Fri 11am-2pm, 5-10pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm, 5-10pm. Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu (north of Block 8), Chaoyang District. (6591 8676, chefbilly@yahoo.com) 美西西餐厅, 朝阳区朝阳公园西路枣营南里小区东门南侧

Element Fresh This sunny Shanghai import proves that American food can be good for you too. Try the hearty, healthful salads, smoothies and sandwiches, or the popular weekend brunch. Voted “Best Restaurant of the Year,” “Outstanding Outdoor Dining,” “Outstanding Brunch (standalone)” and “Best Sandwich,” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Mon-Fri 9am-11pm, Sat-Sun 8am-11pm. Shop 833, Bldg 8, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6417 1318) www. elementfresh.com 新元素, 朝阳区三里屯路 19号The Village南区8号楼833单元

DINING

The Astor Grill Succulent steaks and beautifully presented dishes in a newly renovated swish atmosphere. Check out the rooftop terrace and seafood BBQ. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm; daily 6-10pm. 3/F, St. Regis Hotel Apartments, 21 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6460 6688 ext 2637) 艾斯特扒房, 朝阳区建国门外大街21号国际俱乐部饭店公寓3层

Grandma’s Kitchen Sandwiches, gravybased dinners and high-powered desserts from middle America. Voted “Best Brunch (standalone),” “Best Burger,” and “Best Family-Friendly Restaurant” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 9am-10pm. 47-2 Nanchizi Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6528 2790, bj.grandmas.kitchen@hotmail. com); 2) Daily 10am-10pm. 28 Shique Hutong (across from Beixinqiao subway exit C), Dongcheng District. (8403 9452, bj.grandmas.kitchen@hotmail.com); 3) Daily 10am-11pm. 5/F, Wudaokou Shopping Mall, Haidian District. (6266 6105, bj.grandmas.kitchen@hotmail.com); 4) Daily 7.30am-11pm. 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District. (6503 2893, bj.grandmas.kitchen@hotmail. com); 5) Daily 7.30am-11pm. 1-2/F, Bldg B, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5869 3055/3056, bj.grandmas.kitchen@hotmail.com) 祖母厨房, 1) 东城区南池子大街47-2号; 2) 东城区北新桥石雀胡同28号(地铁五号线北新桥站C出口); 3) 海淀区五道口购物中心5层; 4) 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街甲11号(友谊商店后面); 5) 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外 SohoB座1-2层 Let’s Burger Among Beijing’s hamburger restaurants, Let’s Burger is the latest and best. It offers the classic burgers and the snazzier ones like Mexicano, Wagyu beef and mini burgers. Voted “Best Burger” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11.30am-midnight. D101A, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District. (5208 6036) 朝阳区三里屯北街81号那里花园D101a One East Modern American cuisine with “build-your-own” gourmet burgers and the largest selection of US wines in Beijing. 15 percent service charge. MonFri noon-2.30pm;6-10.30pm. 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, Chaoyang District. (5865 5030) 东方路一号, 朝阳区东方路1号希尔顿酒店2层 Peter’s Tex-Mex Grill With a menu offering burritos, fajitas and enchiladas, this eatery pays tribute to Texas’ enduring popularity. Voted “Outstanding Mexican” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 7.30am-11.30pm. Hairun International Apartment, 2B Jiangtai Lu (southeast of Holiday Inn Lido), Chaoyang District. (5135 8187, 8627 3734); 2) Mon-Fri 9.30am11pm, Sat-Sun 7.30am-11.30pm. 88A International Club, 21 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (8532 2449) 彼德西餐, 1) 朝阳区将台路乙2号海润国际公寓公建2号（丽都假日酒店东南边）; 2) 朝阳区建国门外大街21号国际俱乐部88A

Sizzler Enjoy unlimited trips to the salad bar along with steaks, seafood, ribs and other grilled treats at this American chain. 1) Daily 11am-9pm. 2/F, Jiamao Shopping Mall, 33 Guangshun Beidajie, Wangjing, Chaoyang District. (6471 3876); 2) Daily 10am-10pm. B1-30 Glory Mall, 18 Chongwenmenwai Dajie, Chongwen District. (6714 0399); 3) Daily 11am-9.30pm. FF16, Food Forum, B1/F, The Malls at Oriental Plaza, Dongcheng District. (8518 6315); 4) Daily 11am-9pm. B1/F, Grand Pacific Mall, 133 Xidan Beidajie, Xicheng District. (6651 5283); 5) Daily 11am-10.30pm. International Club, 21 Jianguomenwai Dajie (next to St. Regis Hotel), Chaoyang District. (6532 0475); 6) Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Anzhen Hualian Department Store, Anzhen Xili, Chaoyang District. (6441 9996); 7) Daily 11am-10pm. 102 Beilishi Lu (west of Fuchengmen Hualian Department Store), Xicheng District. (6835 0610) 时时乐, 1) 朝阳区望京广顺北大街嘉茂购物中心二层; 2) 崇文区崇文门外大街18号国

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Q&A 瑞城购物中心 B1-30; 3) 东城区东方新天地 1区地铁层食通天大街FF16商铺; 4) 西城区君太百货地下一层; 5) 朝阳区建国门外大街 21号(国际俱乐部旁边); 6) 朝阳区安贞西里华联商厦2层; 7) 西城区北礼士路102号阜成门华联商场西侧

DINING

Stadium Dog The hot dogs at this colorful Workers Stadium restaurant are a breed above your regular frank, and can be slathered with everything from onions and cheese to coleslaw, olives, jalapeños and about a dozen imported mustards. Daily 10am-2am. Gate 10, Workers’ Stadium, Chaoyang District. (6546 8364) 朝阳区朝阳区工体东路工人体育场东门内10号进口

99 Yuxiang Lu, Tianzhu Zhen, Shunyi District. (8046 6309); 2) Daily 7am-9.30pm. 1/F, Bldg 5, Hairun International Apartment, 2B Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (5135 7645); 3) Daily 7am-9pm. 1/F, East Lake Club, 35 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6461 1525); 4) Daily 7am-8.30pm. Rm 102, 1/F, Bldg 15, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (6530 5480) www.comptoirsdefrance.com 法派, 1) 顺义区裕翔路99号天竺镇欧陆广场L111室; 2) 朝阳区将台路乙 2号海润国际公寓商业5一层; 3) 东城区东直门外大街35号东湖俱乐部1层; 4) 朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心15号楼102 Delicatessen Features a variety of homemade cakes, freshly made sandwiches, and a wide selection of cheeses, sausages, wine gourmet coffee and wines. Daily 7am-9pm. 1/F, Lido Place, 6 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (6437 6688) 熟食店, 朝阳区将台路6号北京丽都假日饭店1层 German Food Center The name says it all. Think sausages and sauerkraut. Daily 9.30am-7pm. 105 Binduyuan Mansion, 15 Zaoying Beili, Maizidian (800m east of Nongzhanguan Beilu), Chaoyang District. (6591 9370) 德国食品店, 朝阳区麦子店枣营北里15号宾都苑公寓105号(长城饭店南侧,农展馆北路往东走800米路北)

Come Dine With Mao Cooking for the Chairman By Tom O’Malley

aster Cheng Ruming was the personal chef to Chairman Mao for 22 years, starting in 1954. Though too elderly to speak with us, his grandson Liu Jian, a chef himself, recounted some stories from Cheng’s colorful career.

the Beijinger : How did your grandfather get the job? Liu Jian: The new China wanted to show the world we are great, so many foreign government staff were invited to visit. Master Cheng had studied Chinese and Western cookery, and got a job in 1952 catering for foreign dignitaries onboard a diplomatic train route between Beijing and Shanghai. Many people enjoyed his food and he was recommended to Mao. Besides his cooking skills, my grandfather could speak Russian. tbj : What was it like cooking for Mao? LJ: Mao usually worked through the night, so he would take breakfast around 11am, lunch at 4 or 5pm, and at 1 or 2am he would eat a very simple dinner, just porridge or some light dishes.

“He liked BBQ fish and cream éclairs” tbj : What did the leader like to eat? LJ: He especially liked spicy Hunan dishes such as duojiao yutou (see Lunch in Translation, p48), and of course, red-braised pork. He liked some Western food too, such as barbecued ﬁsh and cream éclairs. tbj : Master Cheng must have cooked for many VIPs … LJ: On one occasion he cooked niurou chuan’r (beef kebabs) for Mao and the Dalai Lama. The Dalai Lama liked them so much he asked for two extra helpings, then after eating he went to the kitchen and stuck his tongue out at my grandfather. He didn’t know the correct response to this Tibetan sign of respect, so he stuck his tongue out back at him. Fortunately this was the right response! tbj : Did any dishes become Master Cheng’s signature? LJ: He was asked to cook a Western dish for British Field Marshall Bernard Montgomery, so my grandfather stuffed a lobster with cheese. Montgomery told Chairman Mao he would never forget such a delicious meal. Mao was very happy with Master Cheng, and called him a great chef. The dish was named Marshall Lobster. Liu Jian is the head chef at 40 Dongsi Liutiao, a dining and banqueting space that recreates some of the menus of Master Cheng Ruming. Call 6407 6889 for info and reservations.

46 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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TGI Friday’s White-collar hangout exports American BBQ and burgers, steaks, Caribbean cuisine, pasta and salads. Notable for gargantuan frozen cocktails and ladies night drink specials. 1) Daily 11.30ammidnight. 1/F, Grand Skylight CATIC Hotel, 18 Beichen Donglu, Chaoyang District. (8497 0650); 2) Daily 11.30am-midnight. 9-2 Jinchengfang Jie, Xicheng District. (6622 0880); 3) Daily 11.30am-midnight. Bldg C, Beijing International Plaza, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (8526 3388); 4) Daily 11am-11.30pm. Beijing Friendship Hotel, 1 Zhongguancun Nandajie, Haidian District. (6849 8738) 星期五餐厅, 1) 朝阳区北辰东路18号凯迪克格兰云天大酒店1层; 2) 西城区金城坊街 9-2号; 3) 朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦C座; 4) 海淀区中关村南大街1号北京友谊宾馆 Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q This carnivore-friendly restaurant has packed all its authentic high-plains kitsch flown in from the Lonestar State. Daily 9am-midnight. 14 Dongdaqiao Lu (on the corner of Guanghua Lu), Chaoyang District. (6591 9161) www.timsbarbq.com Tim’s 熏烤房, 朝阳区东大桥路14号贵友大厦正北200米 Union Bar & Grille The grill restaurant that’s classy enough to bring a date for steaks, wings, burgers and more. Nice brunch too. Mon-Fri 11am-11pm,Sat-Sun 11am-12pm. S6-31, 3/F, Bldg 6, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6415 9117) 优年美式餐厅, 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village6号楼3层S6-31

BAKERIES & DELIS The legacy of the Earl of Sandwich: Meat between pieces of bread. Stock up on bread, cold cuts and other goodies at these import shops. Bento & Berries Sporting a bright and trendy design (from the same firm behind Centro), the combination bakery, cafe and deli-takeout offers food and drink as diverse as its target customers. MonFri 7am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-7pm. 1/F, Shangri-La’s Kerry Centre Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6561 8833 ext 45) 缤味美食屋, 朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心饭店1层

Kempi Deli Some of the best bread, cakes and desserts in town. Next time you want a birthday cake, try their incredible Black Forest chocolate cake. Discounts after 8pm (9pm weekends). Daily 7am-10pm. 1/F, Kempinski Hotel, Chaoyang District. (6465 3388 ext 5741) 凯宾美食廊, 朝阳区凯宾斯基饭店1层 Kiosk Grilled steak sandwiches, burgers and thick-cut fries are the highlights at this Serbian-owned establishment. 1) Daily 11am-10pm. 1 Xingfu Yicun (in the first alley west of the Xindong Lu intersection), Chaoyang District. (6416 3068); 2) Daily 9am-8pm. Nali Mall (next to Jazz-Ya), Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District. (6413 2461) 南斯拉夫烤肉店, 1) 朝阳区幸福一村1号; 2) 朝阳区三里屯北街那里服装市场 No More Bunz Hotdog Perhaps the best bun-accessorized treat to hit Beijing, this hole-in-the-wall booth sure does fry a good hot dog (RMB 15-25). Mon-Fri 10am8pm,Sat-Sun 10am-6.30pm. Bldg 1, Xingfu Ercun (southwest corner of Xindong Lu and Dongzhimenwai), Chaoyang District. (Chinese 8602 1672, English 135 0107 1114) 朝阳区新东路幸福二村1号楼(新东路和东直门外的西南角公交汽车站后) Treats Treat yourself to an extensive range of signature cakes, pastries, pies and handmade chocolates, or try their specialty sandwiches, rolls and panni’s. 1) Daily 7am-8.30pm. 2/F, Westin Beijing Chaoyang, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (5922 8888); 2) Daily 7am-9pm. 1/F, The Westin Beijing, 9B Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District. (6606 8866 ext 7812) 美食, 1) 朝阳区新源南路1号朝阳威斯汀大酒店2层; 2) 西城区金融大街乙9号北京金融街威斯汀大酒店1层

BEIJING The capital’s culinary history reflects the diversity of its residents though most dishes feature large portions and rich sauces. See also: Beijing Duck. Fu Jia Lou This perennially packed restaurant specializes in old Beijing faves: noodles, soups and cold dishes. Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9.30pm. 23 Dongsishitiao (200m west of Poly Plaza), Dongcheng District. (8403 7831) 福家楼, 东城区东四十条23号(保利大厦西200米)

Boucherie Michel Artisanal French butchery serving up quality cuts of beef, veal, lamb and pork, as well as sausages, cheese, quiche and freshly roasted chickens. Daily 9am-8pm. 1/F, Jiezuo Dasha, Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (6417 0489, boucheriemichel@hotmail. com) 米歇尔肉店, 朝阳区幸福村中路杰座大厦底层

Hot Bean Cooperative Run by a group of hip youngsters, it’s the chicken wings that are the main draw here. Daily 10am10pm. Just inside Chaodou Hutong (50m north of Jiaodaokou Nandajie and Kuan Jie intersection), Dongcheng District. (8401 6165) 炒豆合作社, 东城区交道口南大街炒豆胡同

Comptoirs de France Offers a variety of freshly baked rolls, baguettes, and loaves of bread alongside tempting pastries and chocolates. Voted “Outstanding Sandwiches” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 7am-8.30pm. L-111, Europlaza,

Jiumen Xiaochi Taste some of the best of Beijing’s traditional snacks at this collection of laozihao snack stalls; most relocated from Dashilan’r when the Qianmen area underwent renovation. Daily 10am10pm. 1 Xiaoyou Hutong, Xicheng District. (6402 5858) 九门小吃, 西城区孝友胡同1号

Kaorou Wan Specializes in Hui-style grilled beef, lauded by the likes of Puyu and Guo Moruo. Daily 10.30am-9.30pm. 1) 58 Nanlishi Lu, Xicheng District. (6802 8180); 2) 69 Wanquanhe Lu, Haidian District. (6257 6888) 烤肉宛, 1) 西城区南礼士路58号; 2) 海淀区万泉河路69号 Noodle Bar This hip 12-seat bar is not your everyday mianguan’r. The ingredients are excellent, and the agile kung-fu chefs will capture your attention with their noodlepulling skills. Daily 11am-10pm. 1949–The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (behind Pacific Century Place), Chaoyang District. (6501 1949) 面吧, 朝阳区工体北路 4号院 (盈科中心南面)

The Roadhouse at Mutianyu Fantastic Great Wall views and hearty Chinese country food including fresh rainbow trout. Sat-Sun and holidays 11am-3pm, or by prior appointment. 12 Mutianyu Village, Huairou District. (6162 6506) www. roadhouseatmutianyu.com 大路馆儿, 怀柔区慕田峪村12号 Wenyu Nailao The owners of this Beijing dairy snack outlet are descendents of cooks from the imperial kitchens. 49 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (6405 7621) 文宇奶酪店, 东城区南锣鼓巷49号 Yuebin Restaurant Beijing’s first privatelyowned restaurant post-1949 is also one of its finest. Don’t miss the guota doufu he (wok tofu boxes) and ganshao huangyu (fried yellow croaker). Daily 11am-2pm, 59pm. 43, 31 Cuihua Hutong (opposite the main gates of the National Art Museum of China), Dongcheng District. (6524 5322) 悦宾饭馆, 东城区翠花胡同43，31号(中国美术馆对面)

BEIJING DUCK Authentic oven-roasted Beijing duck is sliced into about 120 pieces and served with plum sauce, fresh spring onions and pancakes. Bianyifang This “laozihao” (time-honored brand) restaurant, whose first branch is located in the historic Qianmen area, has been serving up some of the capital’s finest duck since 1855, and boasts its own special slow roast technique for more mouth watering results. 1) Mon-Fri 10.30am-2pm, 5-9.30pm; Sat-Sun 10am9pm. 6 Beisanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (8208 1019, 5857 2687); 2) Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5-9pm. 4/F, Bldg 1, Dacheng International Center, 78 Dongsihuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5962 6999); 3) Daily 11am-9.30pm. 3/F Building 2, New World Shopping Mall, 3 Chongwenmenwai Dajie, Chongwen District. (6708 8680); 4) Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm. 73 Tiantan Donglu, Chongwen District. (6702 0904) www.bianyifang.com 便宜坊, 1) 朝阳区北三环中路6号; 2) 朝阳区东四环中路78号大成国际中心1号楼4层; 3) 崇文区崇文门外大街3号新世界商场二期3层; 4) 崇文区天坛东路73号 Da Dong Roast Duck Da Dong’s reputation was built on its original Tuanjiehu branch, but the newer Nanxincang spot adds decorative class to the classic Da Dong ducks, which have a reputation for being among the very best in the city. Voted “Best Beijing Duck,” “Outstanding for Impressing Visitors” and “Best Restaurant of the Year (Chinese)” in our 2009 Reader Restaurant Awards. Daily 11am-10pm. 1) 5/F, Jinbao Dasha, Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District. (8522 1234); 2) 1-2/F, Nanxincang International Plaza, 22A Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District. (5169 0329); 3) 3 Tuanjiehu Beikou, Dongsanhuan Lu (southeast corner of Changhong Qiao), Chaoyang District. (6582 2892/4003) 北京大董烤鸭店, 1) 东城区金宝街金宝大厦5层; 2) 东城区东四十条甲22号南新仓国际大厦 1~2楼(立交桥西南角); 3) 朝阳区团结湖北口3号楼东三环路(长虹桥东南角) Duck de Chine Decked out with industrial chic concrete flooring and a high, woodbeamed ceiling, this restaurant brings

Liqun Roast Duck Restaurant Somewhat off the beaten path, Li Qun serves quality ducks in a traditional Beijing courtyard and is well worth the trek out to Qianmen. To spare yourself a lengthy wait – for your duck as well as a table – reserve and order in advance if possible. Daily 10am-10pm. 11 Beixiangfeng, Zhengyi Lu (northeast of Qianmen), Dongcheng District. (6705 5578) 利群烤鸭店, 东城区前门东大街正义路南口北翔凤胡同11号 Made in China Don’t let the hotel environs throw you – this stylish joint on the first floor of the Grand Hyatt boasts a contemporary take on northeastern Chinese cuisine, along with some of the city’s finest roast duck. Voted “Outstanding Beijing Duck” and “Outstanding Restaurant of the Year (Chinese)” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 1/F, Grand Hyatt Hotel, 1 Dongchang’an Jie, Dongcheng District. (6510 9608) 长安一号, 东城区东长安街1号东方广场北京东方君悦大酒店1层

DINING

Shaguo Ju 300-year-old restaurant specializes in shaguo casserole dishes. 1) Daily 11am-10pm. 60 Xisi Nandajie, Xicheng District. (6602 1126); 2) Daily 6.30am-10pm. 40 Shuangyushu Dongli, Haidian District. (8213 6710) 砂锅居, 1) 西城区西四南大街 60号; 2) 海淀区双榆树东里40号

Chinese and French duck-roasting traditions together on the same menu. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 1949–The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (opposite the south gate of Pacific Century Place Mall), Chaoyang District. (6501 8881) 全鸭季, 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (太平洋百货南门对面)

Quan Ju De A name synonymous in Beijing with roast duck, Quan Ju De’s celebrated birds have passed through the mouths of visitors from Fidel Castro to Richard Nixon over the years. Voted “Outstanding Beijing Duck” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 11am-9pm. Tower 1-3, Bldg A, Tianchuang Shiyuan, 309 Huizhong Beili, Chaoyang District. (6480 1685/6); 2) Daily 11am-3pm, 5-10pm. 57 Di’anmen Xidajie, Xicheng District. (6612 8557, 6617 1570); 3) Daily 11am-2pm, 4.30-9pm. 9 Shuaifuyuan Hutong, Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6525 3310); 4) Daily 10.30am-9pm. 1/F, Jingxin Dasha, 2A Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6466 0896) 全聚德, 1) 朝阳区慧忠北里309号天创世缘A座1-3楼; 2) 西城区地安门西大街57号; 3) 东城区王府井大街帅府园胡同9号; 4) 朝阳区东三环北路甲2号京信大厦1层

BUFFETS Aroma Aroma offers five distinct cuisines: Japanese, Indian, Chinese, Southeast Asian, and Western favorites. Daily 11am2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (5908 8777) 香溢, 朝阳区华贸中心建国路甲 83号丽思卡尔顿酒店 Cafe Cha A sumptuous buffet featuring a sushi and sashimi station, pastas, pizzas, Thai laksas and tandoori specialties. Daily breakfast 6-10am, lunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 5.30-9.30pm. Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian District. (6841 2211 ext 2715) 咖啡Cha, 海淀区紫竹院路29号香格里拉饭店 City Wall Bistro This sleek, contemporary all-day buffet restaurant boasts live cooking stations intermingled with the tables. Daily 6am-11am,noon-midnight. Beijing Marriott Hotel City Wall, 7 Jianguomen Nandajie, Dongcheng District. (5811 8255) 城墙小馆, 东城区建国门南大街7号北京万豪酒店 Garden Court Brasserie-style buffet featuring an extravagant Champagne brunch on Sundays. Voted “Outstanding Brunch (hotel)” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 6-10am,11.30am-2pm,6-11pm. St. Regis Hotel, 21 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6460 6688 ext 2340) 景苑咖啡厅, 朝阳区建国门外大街21号国际俱乐部饭店 Golden Jaguar Dive into mountains upon mountains of food at this buffet extravaganza, which bills itself as an “international cuisine collection.” Mon-Fri 11am-2.30pm,5-10.30pm,Sat-Sun 10.30am4pm,5-10.30pm. 1) 4/F, North Bldg, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6553 8888); 2) 2/F, Wangfu Shiji Dasha, Donganmen Dajie (opposite China Children’s Art Theater), Dongcheng District. (6559 8888 ext 1); 3) 2/F, Building 214, Huizhong Beili, Yayuncun, Chaoyang District.

Can't find what you're looking for? Check out the Dining Directory Index on p41

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LUNCH IN TRANSLATION

For a comprehensive directory, see www.thebeijinger.com (5128 1888) 金钱豹, 1) 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶大厦北楼4层; 2) 东城区东安门大街王府世纪大厦2层(儿童剧场对面); 3) 朝阳区亚运村惠忠北里小区214号楼2层 Kranzler’s Don’t miss their classy Eastmeets-West buffet. Daily 6-10.30am, 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-midnight. 1/F, Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6465 3388 ext 4105) 客来思乐餐厅, 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店1层

DINING

Monsoon A cafe-style restaurant offering an innovative selection of Asian and Western cuisines. Daily 6-10.30am, 11.30am2pm, 5.30-11pm. InterContinental Hotel, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District. (5852 5888 ext 5916/5917) 季候风, 西城区金融街 11号洲际酒店

Dish #103: duojiao yutou 剁椒鱼头 (fish head with pickled chillis)

he sour, pickled peppers quintessential to Hunan cuisine are the MVPs in this well-liked dish. Diced red (and occasionally green) peppers are pickled in brine and stir-fried with ginger, garlic, spring onion, oyster sauce, soy sauce, vinegar and cooking wine, then served with the giant steamed head of the aptly-named “big-headed carp.” The sour spiciness of the peppers should complement the tender ﬁsh meat – connoisseurs usually eat the lips ﬁrst, followed by the eyes. As with most Hunan dishes, it’s best consumed with a simple bowl of fragrant rice. To try this dish for yourself, see directory listings under “Hunan & Hebei.”

READER REVIEWS Three Guizhou Men

Crepanini

omarmugesan: “San Ge Guizhouren is the kind of Chinese restaurant you’ve got to like. It’s the Chinese equ iva lent of S ch i nd ler ’s Tankstelle – big portions of down-to-earth food that’s full of ﬂavor. The eggplant with coriander has changed my p e r c e pt ion of cor i a nde r. Believe me, it’s worth trying.”

Wef r uca r : “ T hese crepes aren’t just glorified jianbing. They’re authentic, fresh and not too pricy, which in itself is a winning formula (quite frankly, one I wish more places would try). The staff wear those blackand-white striped shirts that you’d expect to see in an SNL sketch about Sarkozy, but for reasons I can’t comprehend, it doesn’t come across as tacky.”

Senses A contemporary buffet and a la carte restaurant offering a unique combination of Asian and international cuisine. On Sundays, Senses and sister restaurant Prego host inspiRED, one of the most lavish brunches in town. Voted “Outstanding Brunch (hotel)” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 6.30-10.30am, 11.30am2.30pm, 5.30-10pm.. 1/F, The Westin Beijing, 9B Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District. (6629 7810) 味, 西城区金融大街乙9号北京金融街威斯汀大酒店1层 Taste Lively, cool, clean and fresh, this all-day restaurant comes with interactive cooking stations and healthful “super foods” corners that help jump start your day. On Sundays, Taste hosts Bubbalicious, which readers voted “Best Brunch (hotel)” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 6.3010.30am, 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-11pm. 2/F, Westin Beijing Chaoyang, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (5922 8888 ext 8102) 朝阳区新源南路1号朝阳威斯汀大酒店2层 VIC 24-hour buffet dining with food from around the world. Daily 12am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 6/F, Sofitel Hotel, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (8599 6666) VIC国际美食, 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座6层

CAFES & TEAHOUSES Two sides of the same coin: relaxation and warm beverages.

Cafe Yo Serving fresh Illy coffee, buttery croissants, sandwiches, fruit salads, spicy noodles, and pancakes, this café has “Tulip chairs” by Knoll, free Wi-Fi and a comfortable atmosphere. Daily 8am-7pm. 30 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6413 2168) 朝阳区三里屯北路30号 Cafe Zarah Decked with sofas, photography and vases of fresh flowers, this German cafe serves cakes, soups, salads, and sandwiches from the owner’s personal recipe book. Daily 9.30am-midnight. 42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (8403 9807) www.cafezarah.com 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 e.a.t Cafe & Bar Cute, cozy and cool, e.a.t invites you to while away the hours between breakfast and last call on its couches, bar stools or terrace with superior cocktails and fresh salads, sandwiches and pasta. Daily 10am-2am. 70 Gulou Dongdajie (east of Nanluogu Xiang), Dongcheng District. (6709 1383, 138 1118 3659) 东城区鼓楼东大街70号 IF Juice Beijing’s own Jamba Juice serves freshly squeezed juices and smoothies without preservatives or sugar. Sandwiches and salads available too. Daily 8am-10pm. Shop 14, Bldg 11, Central Park, 6 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6533 6569) 如果, 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际11号楼14号商铺 Panino Teca This casual-chic cafe bakes its own bread daily on the premises to make an exhaustive variety of sandwiches. Voted “Outstanding Sandwiches” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Delivery is available. 1) Daily 8.30am-midnight. S2-11, Bldg 2, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu (across from Aperitivo and Nali Patio), Chaoyang District. (6416 1416); 2) Daily 8am-11pm. 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District. (8454 1797) 品味店, 1) 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village2号楼S211; 2) 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 Schoolhouse Canteen The Schoolhouse at Mutianyu Great Wall serves casual Western food and affords great views of the Great Wall from its outdoor terrace. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat-Sun 9am-8pm. 12 Mutianyu Village, Huairou District. (6162 6506/6287) www.schoolhousecanteen.com 小园, 怀柔区慕田峪村12号 Sugar Bar Pastries and sugary delights from the in-house bakery, with a wide range of coffees. Daily 11am-11pm. 1949– The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (behind Pacific Century Place), Chaoyang District. (6501 1949) 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (盈科中心南面) The Coffee Lobby A cute little German cafe with a passion for coffee and sandwiches. Daily 8.30am-late. 10 Ande Lu, Dongcheng District. (6451 1453) www. thecoffeelobby.com 东城区安德路10号

Bocata The white rock terrace and wellmade paninis make this sandwich cafe a pleasant retreat when the climate is congenial. Daily 10am-midnight. 33 Sanlitun Lu (3.3 Shopping Center), Chaoyang District. (6417 5291) 朝阳区三里屯路33号 3.3大厦对面

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48 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

Red Orange Enjoy daily menus fresh from the market and extensive pan-Asian and Western delights from the interactive open kitchen buffet. Daily 6-9.30pm. 1/F, Crowne Plaza Sun Palace Beijing, 12 Qisheng Zhongjie, Beisanhuan Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6452 1608/6429 8888 ext 6320) 红橙, 朝阳区七圣中街12号新云南皇冠假日酒店

offers a completely American menu, with wonderful coffees, cakes and breakfast specials. Daily 24hrs. Rm 8, Bldg 12, Huaqing Jiayuan, Chengfu Lu (west of Wudaokou subway station), Haidian District. (8286 7026) 桥咖啡, 海淀区成府路五道口华清嘉园12号楼8号（五道口城铁站西边）

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The Bookworm Bright, airy and filled with books. Offers light sandwiches, salads and pastas as well as heartier fare. Wine list features 40 options. 1) Mon-Sat 8am8pm,Sun 8am-5pm. The First Courtyard, Hegezhuang Village, Shunyi District. (6431 2108); 2) Daily 9am-2am. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6586 9507) www.chinabookworm.com 书虫书吧, 1) 顺义区崔各庄乡，何各庄村一号院; 2) 朝阳区工体北路4号院 The Bridge Cafe Extremely popular with the foreign student contingent, this cafe

Tube Station Reliable international style sandwiches and coffee for the student contingent. Daily 11am-11pm. 500m north of Beijing Normal University East Gate, Haidian District. (6200 4439) 站点, 海淀区北师大东门往北走500米

2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 24hrs. 1) 77 Hepingli Xijie, Dongcheng District. (6429 6888); 2) 1/F, Entrance B03, north corner of Jinyuan Shopping Mall, 1 Yuanda Lu, Haidian District. (8887 1155); 3) Yiyuan No.15, Anhuibeili, Yayuncun, Chaoyang District. (6497 8978); 4) 16 Pufang Lu, across from Carrefour, Fengtai District. (6761 7161); 5) 15 Tuanjiehu Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (8596 8881) 金鼎轩酒楼, 1) 东城区和平里西街77号; 2) 海淀区远大路1号金源时代购物中心北侧1层B03入口; 3) 朝阳区亚运村安慧北里逸园15号; 4) 丰台区方庄蒲芳路16号 (家乐福对面); 5) 朝阳区团结湖南路15号

Yuemingyuan Teahouse Traditional teahouse providing a quiet reprieve for frayed urban nerves. Wide selection of snacks and teas available. Daily 9ammidnight. 24 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6507 4661) 月明园, 朝阳区东大桥路24号

CANTONESE Includes Chaozhou and Fujian style cuisines, as well as dim sum. Fresh ingredients, quick stirfrying and steaming are used to preserve the ingredients’ natural flavors. Celestial Court Seafood and dim sum in a luxurious setting for those on an expense account. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, 6-10pm. 2/F, St Regis Hotel, 21 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6460 6688 ext 2460 or 2462) 天宝阁, 朝阳区建国门外大街 21号北京国际俱乐部饭店2层 The Deluxe Restaurant A contemporarylooking place with an excellent set meal for two available only at lunch. Daily 10.30am-3pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 3/F, Comfort Inn, 6 Gongti Beilu (west of Pacific Century Plaza), Chaoyang District. (8523 6668) 凯悦酒家, 朝阳区工体北路6号凯富酒店3楼盈科中心西侧 Elements An open kitchen dining experience featuring “pan-Asian” cuisines and other culinary styles from around the world. Daily 6-10am, noon-2.30pm, 610pm. 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, Chaoyang District. (5865 5000 ext 5020) 元素阁, 朝阳区东方路1号希尔顿酒店2层 Herbal Cafe This Hong Kong cafe serves herbal teas, soups, dim sum and stir-fries in a comfortable atmosphere. 1) Daily 8am-4am. B02, 17 Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (5820 4679); 2) Daily 11am-11pm. S6-33, 3/F, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6416 0618) 泰和草本工坊, 1) 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场10号楼B02; 2) 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village3层s6-33 Horizon Good variety of Chinese dishes; classy atmosphere. Dim sum available in the afternoon only. Voted “Outstanding Dim Sum” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm. 1/F, Shangri-La’s Kerry Centre Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6561 8833 ext 41) 海天阁, 朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心饭店1层 Jewel Well presented authentic Cantonese cuisine and signature dishes from around China. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 1/F, The Westin Beijing, 9B Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District. (6606 8866 ext 7820) 金城阁, 西城区金融大街乙9号北京金融街威斯汀大酒店1层 Jia Serving top-quality Cantonese fare, the chef hails from a five star hotel in Singapore. Mon-Thu 5.30-10.30pm, Fri-Sat 5.3011pm. Inside Face bar, 26 Dongcaoyuan, Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6551 6788) 嘉, 朝阳区工体南路东草原路26 Jin Ding Xuan Cantonese chain that specializes in fresh and steaming baskets of dim sum. Voted “Best Dim Sum” in our

Noble Court Fine Cantonese cuisine featuring dim sum as well as seafood dishes. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-2.30pm; daily 5.30-10pm. B1/F, Grand Hyatt Beijing Hotel, Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an Jie, Dongcheng District. (8518 1234 ext 3822) beijing.grand.hyatt. com/hyatt/hotels/entertainment/restaurants/index.jsp 悦庭, 东城区东长安街1号东方广场北京东方君悦大酒店地下1层

DINING

Village Cafe This casual dining space offers a contemporary take on international favorites such as grilled shark burger on Turkish bread, and couscous salad with roasted pumpkin. Daily 24hr. 1/F, The Opposite House, Bldg 1, The Village at Sanlitun, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6410 5210, villagecafe@theoppositehous e.com) 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯Village1号楼瑜舍1层

Pearl Serves dishes from the Pearl River Delta region (Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Macau). Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.3010pm. Beijing Marriott Hotel City Wall, 7 Jianguomen Nandajie, Dongcheng District. (5811 8200) 珍珠中餐厅, 东城区建国门南大街7号北京万豪酒店 Shang Palace Authentic Cantonese cuisine in an opulent setting. Enjoy the view of the oriental garden while dining on braised abalone and tiger shark’s fin soup. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm. Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian District. (6841 2211) 香宫, 海淀区紫竹院路29号香格里拉饭店 Sun Palace Classy and luxurious setting with delicious Cantonese cuisine that is great for impressing business clients. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm,5.30-10pm. Crowne Plaza Sun Palace (inside Yunnan Dasha), 12 Qisheng Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (6452 1708) 太阳宫, 朝阳区北京新云南皇冠假日酒店 Zen5es A mix of authentic Cantonese flavors plus original gourmet food presentation styles, supplemented by signature dishes from China’s other major regional cuisines - Beijing, Shanghai, Sichuan, Hunan, and Zhejiang. Includes 11 private dining rooms and individual show kitchens. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 4/F, Westin Beijing Chaoyang, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (5922 8888 ext 8121) 朝阳区新源南路1号，朝阳威斯汀大酒店4层

CENTRAL & SOUTH AMERICAN From burritos to bbq, from mole to ceviche. Includes Brazilian and Mexican cuisines.

Alameda Market-fresh prix fixe menus with a Brazilian twist, served in an airy, spacious setting. Voted “Best Business Lunch,” “Outstanding Steak” and “Outstanding Value” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily noon-3pm, 6-10.30pm. Sanlitun Beijie (beside the Nali Mall), Chaoyang District. (6417 8084, alameda_ beijing@yahoo.com) 朝阳区三里屯北街 La Bamba This two-story restaurant and bar offers inexpensive drink specials, decent fajitas and pub sports. Daily 10am6am. Wudaokou, East gate Huaqing Jiayuan, Haidian District. (8286 6755) 海淀区五道口华清嘉园东门，五角星酒吧2、3层 Latin Grillhouse All-you-can-eat meat, potent caipirinhas and pulsing Brazilian

Can't find what you're looking for? Check out the Dining Directory Index on p41

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October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 49 that’smags

For a comprehensive directory, see www.thebeijinger.com music make this a great venue for aftermatch parties and office blowouts. Daily 11am-3pm, 5-11pm. C1-11, Block 1, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6126/8) 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区1号楼C1-11

www.lan-global.com 兰会所, 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号LG双子座4层

Din Tai Fung Taste just one dumpling and you’ll know why they’re famous around the world. Voted “Outstanding Shanghai” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Mon-Fri 11.30am-9.30pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. 7/F, Dangdai Shangcheng, 40 Zhongguancun Dajie, Haidian District. (6269 6726); 2) Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm. 24 Xinyuan Xili Zhongjie, Chaoyang District. (6462 4502); 3) Daily 11.30am-9.30pm. 6/F, Shin Kong Place, China Central Place, 87 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (6533 1536) www.dintaifung.com.cn 鼎泰丰, 1) 海淀区中关村大街40号当代商城7层; 2) 朝阳区新源西里中街24号; 3) 朝阳区建国路87号华贸中心新光天地6层

The Side Saddle Subway-style bar where late-night revelers can build their own mighty burritos from a selection of fillings and sauces. Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, South wing (next to Ciro’s Pomodoro), Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5208 6005) 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园内南侧1层

DINING

CONTEMPORARY CUISINE Bei Artistically presented North Asian cuisine in a peaceful, minimalist setting. Mon-Sat 5.30-10pm. B1/F, The Opposite House, Bldg 1, The Village at Sanlitun, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6410 5230, info@beirestaurant.com) www.beirestaurant.com 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯 Village1号楼瑜舍地下1层 Blu Lobster From the professional service to the state of the art cooking techniques, this five-star restaurant is a must-go place in Beijing even at its expensive price. Tue-Sun 5.30-11pm. Valley Wing 1/F, Shangri-La Hotel, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian District. (6841 2211 ext 6727 / 6728) 蓝韵, 海淀区紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉饭店新阁一层 China Grill Get a bird’s eye view of Beijing while dining on grilled meats, fish and seafood and some classical Chinese dishes at this restaurant at the top of the Park Hyatt. Voted “Outstanding for Impressing Visitors” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 6-10.30am, 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 66/F, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (8567 1234) 北京亮, 朝阳区建国门外大街 2号柏悦酒店66层

Mosto Inventive, exciting contemporary food with a South American touch. Excellent wine list, friendly staff. Voted “Outstanding Restaurant of the Year (non-Chinese)” and “Outstanding Business Lunch” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5208 6030) www.mostobj.com 摸石头, 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园3层 Paper This sleek, urban minimalist restaurant serves delicate portions of contemporary Chinese cuisine. Daily 6pm-midnight. 138 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (8401 5080) 东城区鼓楼东大街138号 Qi Enjoy a culinary journey through China that highlights seven regional cuisines including Sichuan, Cantonese and Beijing fare with a modern twist. Daily 11.30am2pm, 5.30-10pm. 2/F, The Ritz-Carlton, Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District. (6601 6666) 气, 西城区金城坊东街1号金融街丽思卡顿酒店2层

Chynna Serving Northern Chinese cuisine and a range of other regional classics with a modern twist. An extensive wine list and in-house tea master round out the offerings. Daily 10.30am-2pm.5.30-11pm. 5/F Hilton Hotel Wangfujing, 8 Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng District. (5812 8888) 东城区王府井希尔顿酒店王府井东街8号 Domus Located on the east side of the Forbidden City, this elegant courtyard restaurant offers great outdoor seating and contemporary European cuisine. Daily 11am-11pm. 115 Nanchizi Dajie, Dongcheng District. (8511 8015) www. domusrestaurant.com 东城区南池子大街 115号 Green T. House Like Alice stepping into the Mad Hatter’s Chinoiserie tea party. Tea-infused fusion cuisine served in an impressively fanciful atmosphere. Voted “Outstanding Decor” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm,611.30pm. 6 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6552 8310, 6552 8311, info@green-thouse.com) www.green-t-house.com 紫云轩, 朝阳区工体西路6号 Green T House Living This suburban establishment is a meticulously designed fusion of architectural styles, colors and sculptures. Daily 11.30am-11.30pm. 318 Hegezhuang Village, Chaoyang District. (84564922 ext 8, 136 0113 7132, 136 0113 7232, info@green-t-house.com) www. green-t-house.com 紫云轩, 朝阳区崔各庄乡合各庄村318号 IFW (International Food Warehouse) Managed by the Park Hyatt, IFW offers top quality choices in Japanese, Chinese, Singaporean and Western cuisines. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-9.45pm. B1/F, Park Life, Yintai Center, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (8567 1568) 朝阳区朝阳区建国门外大街2号北京柏悦酒店地下1层 Lan Club This luxury Philippe Starck-designed restaurant offers fresh interpretations of Cantonese and regional Chinese cuisine. Voted “Best Decor” and “Best for Impressing Visitors” in the 2009 Reader Restaurant Awards. Daily 9am-11pm. 4/F, LG Twin Towers, 12B Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (5109 6012/13)

50 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

10pm. North of 6 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang District. (6586 4967) 宝源饺子屋, 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧

SALT This innovative restaurant in a fresh modern minimalist setting has weekly two-course or three-course set meals. Voted “Outstanding Restaurant of the Year (non-Chinese),” “Best Service,” “Outstanding Business Lunch,” “Best Steak,” and “Outstanding Wine List” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Mon-Sat noon-3pm, 6-10.30pm, Sun Brunch noon-4pm. 2/F, 9 Jiangtai Xilu (opposite the Japanese School, west of Rosedale Hotel), Chaoyang District. (6437 8457) www.saltrestaurantbeijing.com 盐, 朝阳区将台西路9号2层（珀丽酒店西边） Scarlett Chic wine bar and restaurant serving tapas, salads, pastas and premium cuts of meat. Daily set menus, drinks specials and evening parties also on offer. Daily 6pm-3am. Hotel G, 7A Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6552 2880) www.hotelg.com 朝阳区工体西路甲7号北京极栈内 Whampoa Club Situated in one of the last siheyuan left in the Financial Street district, this beautiful restaurant transforms classic Beijing comfort food into something worthy of the sophisticated surroundings. Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5-10.30pm. 23A Jinrong Dajie, Xicheng District. (8808 8828) 黄浦会, 西城区金融大街甲23号

DUMPLINGS Steamed, fried or boiled flour skins stuffed with a wide assortment of meats and vegetables. Beijingers tend to go heavy on the vinegar dipping sauce. Baoyuan Jiaozi Wu A healthy rainbow of dumplings, their dough dyed with spinach, carrot, blueberry and grape. Daily 11am-

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EUROPEAN See also French, German, Greek, Italian and Pizza for more extensive listings. Aria This elegant restaurant with live jazz performances serves inventive European food from monthly changing menus. Voted “Outstanding Wine List” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11.30am2.30pm, 6-10pm; bar 11am-midnight. 2/F, China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6505 2266 ext 38, 6505 3318) 阿郦雅, 朝阳区建国门外大街1号中国大饭店二层 Budapest Hungarian Restaurant The first Hungarian restaurant to open in Beijing serves goulash and other Magyar specialties. 2/F, Bldg 6, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District. (8587 1028/1058) 朝阳区工体东路中国红阶大厦6号楼202室 Fish Nation Hearty servings of chunky chips, Belgian beer and the largest piece of boneless fish you may ever encounter in China. 1) Sun-Thu 11am-2am, Fri-Sat 11am4am. Sanlitun Houjie (around the corner from Poachers Inn), Chaoyang District. (6415 0119); 2) Sun-Thu 11am-midnight, Fri-Sat 10am-1.30am. 31 Nanluogu Xiang (near Jiaodaokou), Dongcheng District. (6401 3249) 鱼邦, 1) 朝阳区三里屯后街（青年酒吧附近）; 2) 东城区交道口南锣鼓巷31号

the like – made from all-natural ingredients sourced from organic farms around the city. Lunchtimes offer a set menu and weekends feature an “Organic Sunday Brunch.” Daily 9.30am-10pm. Bldg B, Cable 8, Zhenzhi Lu (west of Sofitel Wanda), Chaoyang District. (5208 3689, solairebistro@hotmail.com) 阳光峡谷咖啡厅, 朝阳区建国路郎家园8号（尚8创意产业园区B座东侧108） Vineyard Cafe This hard-to-find hutong cafe, which specializes in comfort food and comfy couches, is both hip and sensible, and their hearty breakfasts are excellent weekend brunch fare. TueSun 11.30am-10.30pm, closed Mon. 31 Wudaoying Hutong (just north of the Confucius temple), Dongcheng District. (6402 7961, info@vineyardcafe.cn) www. vineyardcafe.cn 葡萄院儿, 东城区五道营胡同31号

FRENCH Serious culinary tradition that includes simple bistro fare, delectable pastries and haute cuisine. See also: European. Brasserie Flo Owned by the powerful Flo Group, and now a Beijing institution. Faultless French classics include the onion soup, steak au poivre, and profiteroles. Voted “Outstanding French” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Delivery available. Daily 11am-3pm, 5.30-11pm. Rainbow Plaza (Longbo Guangchang), 16 Dongsanhuan Beilu (south of the Great Wall Sheraton), Chaoyang District. (6595 5135/9) www.flo. cn 北京福楼餐厅, 朝阳区东三环北路16号隆博广场二层 Cafe de la Poste A stone’s throw from the Confucius Temple, this neighborhood favorite offers a simple menu of steak, salads and potatoes, plus superb vegetarian options. Beijing’s French community pack in every night, drawn by the casual atmosphere and friendly staff. Daily noon3pm, 6pm-late. 58 Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6402 7047) www. cafedelaposte.com.cn 东城区雍和宫大街 58号 Crepanini Run by two Bretons, this holein-the-wall sells savory and sweet crepes, waffles and paninis. Drinks include coffee, cider and pastis. 1/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. 朝阳区三里屯北路 81号那里花园1层酒吧街对面 Jaan This fine dining restaurant presents a light and innovative interpretation of classic French cuisine. The decor consists of tall, picturesque French windows, elaborate crystal chandeliers and a grand piano resting on the original 1924 dance floor. Daily noon-2pm, 6.30-10pm; Sat also 2.30-5pm. Raffles Beijing Hotel, 33 Dongchang’an Jie, Dongcheng District. (8500 4186, 6526 3388 ext 4186) 家安, 东城区东长安街33号北京饭店莱佛士

Morel’s High-quality, locally-bred beef and great seafood are used in typical Belgian dishes. Be sure to book ahead. Voted “Outstanding Steak” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Tue-Sun 11.30am-11.30pm. East block, 27 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6437 3939); 2) Tue-Sun 11.30am1am. Gongti Beilu (opposite Workers’ Gymnasium North Gate, northwest corner of Chunxiu Lu), Chaoyang District. (6416 8802) 1) 朝阳区莫劳红玺西餐, 亮马桥路 27号东座1层; 2) 朝阳区莫劳龙玺西餐, 工体北路春秀路西北角工人体育馆北门对面 The Orchard A secret garden, difficult to find, but worth the journey for continental cuisine served in a charming country setting. Voted “Outstanding Brunch (standalone)” and “Outstanding Family-Friendly Restaurant” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Tue-Sun noon-2.30pm (Sun lunch until 3pm), 2.30-6pm (coffee), 6-9pm (dinner). From Jingshun Lu, exit at Sunhe Market (we recommend calling for directions), Shunyi District. (6433 6270) 果园, 顺义区京顺路孙河市场出口(建议给餐馆打电话问详细地址) Solaire Bistro Housed in a converted cable factory loft, Solaire serves a range of Western and fusion dishes – hamburgers, pasta, sandwiches, salads, smoothies and

Juliette’s Unpretentious French brasserie with a terrace. Daily 8am-11pm. 1/F, Tongli Studio, 43 Sanlitun Beilu (southwest of 3.3 Shopping Mall), Chaoyang District. (6417 8188) 朝阳区三里屯北路43号同里一层 La Gauche This charming French restaurant has all the staples of a French feast: escargot, foie gras, flambés, and seafoods. Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 4 Gonti Beilu (Next to Banana Leaf), Chaoyang District. (6593 8989/9898) 左岸春天, 朝阳区工体北路4号 La Mansarde In a cozy, sophisticated attic you’ll find Breton crepes and galettes as well as good French country-style cooking. Daily noon-2pm, 6-10.30pm. 35 Haoyun Jie, Zaoying Lu, Chaoyang District. (5867 0255) 法兰香西餐厅, 朝阳区枣营路好运街35号 La Taverne Laid-back French bistro serving traditional galette, crepes and beef fondue. They also offer weekday lunch set menus and weekend brunch. Daily 10am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 7 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6551 8967) 遥远西餐吧, 朝阳区工体西路7号 Le Petit Gourmand Warm and cozy space with a menu featuring crepes and couscous. Also boasts a library of over 9,000 books and wireless internet. Voted “Outstanding French” in our 2009 Restaurant

Awards. Daily 9.30am-midnight. bar open until 2am. 3/F, Tongli Studios, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District. (6417 6095, fax 6413 0765) www.lepetitigourmand.com.cn 小美食家, 朝阳区三里屯后街同里3层 Le Petit Paris Pleasant bistro with decent food at reasonable prices, especially sandwiches. Daily 10.30am-midnight. 29 Sanlitun Lu (opposite the French School), Chaoyang District. (6416 9381) 小巴黎, 朝阳区三里屯路29号北酒吧街 Le Pré Lenôtre Le Pré Lenotre exudes all the grandness of fine French dining and matches it with professional service and delicious food. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30-11.30pm. 6/F, Sofitel Hotel, Bldg C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (8599 6666) 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座6层

Seasons Cafe/Creperie Traditional Breton crepes of the sweet, savory and sublime variety. Tue-Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu (beside China Art Seasons), Dashanzi Art District, Chaoyang District. (8456 4823) 北京季节咖啡店, 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院内

FUSION Asian and European culinary traditions meet in what tends to be the most experimental and cutting edge of Beijing cuisine. China Lounge Chefs from Guangdong prepare a selection of the greatest hits of Chinese cuisine. Daily 11am-11pm. Inside Workers’ Stadium South Gate, Chaoyang District. (6501 1166) 唐廊, 朝阳区工人体育场南门内 The CourtYard Dine on carefully prepared fusion food in a modern and romantic interior. Views of the Forbidden City and surrounding hutongs create a unique atmosphere. Voted “Best Place for a Romantic Meal” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 6-9.30pm. 95 Donghuamen Dajie (north of Donghuamen parking lot at the Forbidden City), Dongcheng District. (6526 8883) 四合院, 东城区东华门大街95号 (故宫东华门停车场北面) East 33 Oriental mystique and Western chic meet both in this restaurant which offers brick oven pizzas and crisp Peking Duck on the same menu. Daily 6.30am-10.30pm. Raffles Beijing Hotel, 33 Dongchangan Jie, Dongcheng District. (6526 3388 ext 5171) 东三十三, 东城区东长安街33号北京饭店莱佛士 Greenfish Boasts a “flexiterian” cuisine, fresh and tasty food, with a focus on vegetable and seafood dishes. Daily 6.30am -11pm. The Ritz-Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District. (6601 6666 ext. 6255) 四季汇, 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店 Le Little Saigon Cute colonial-style French-Vietnamese bistro with a beautiful rooftop in the midst of Gulou hutongs. Weekday set lunch from 11.30am-1.30pm. Daily 11.30-midnight. 141 Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6401 8465) 西贡在巴黎, 东城区旧鼓楼大街141号 Olio Friendly English-speaking waitstaff dish out fusion European and Asian pastas, sandwiches and entrees at this Singaporean-run restaurant-cafe. Daily 10am-9pm. B124, B1/F, China Central Place (basement of Shin Kong Place), 77-79 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (6530 7882) www.olio.sg 欧流餐厅, 朝阳区建国路7779号华贸购物中心地下1层124号 Vasco’s Imaginative and original Macanese cuisine with a Portuguese twist. Daily 6.30-10am, 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-11pm. 5/F, Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng District. (5812 8888)

GERMAN Even with icons like bratwurst, beer and sauerkraut, it’s really not as heavy as you think: coffee, decadent desserts, strudels and sweets. Drei Kronen 1308 Brauhaus The largest microbrewery in town makes its three signature beers to a 700-year old Bavarian recipe. Sun-Thu 11.30am-midnight; FriSat 11.30am-late. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6503 5555) 皇冠自酿啤酒坊, 朝阳区工体东路中国红楼5号楼1层 Paulaner Brauhaus One of Beijing’s best choices for authentic, if pricey, German food, the Paulaner brews its own beer. Daily 11.30am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6465 3388 ext 5732) 普拉那啤酒坊餐厅, 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 Schiller’s German specialties at affordable prices and a dedicated happy hour crowd. Daily 9am-1am. 1 Liangmahe Nanlu (south of Capital Mansion), Chaoyang District. (6464 9016) 大明西餐厅, 朝阳区亮马河南路 1号京城大厦南 Schindler’s Tankstelle Hearty sausages and frosty steins of beer blend with a nice view of Ritan Park’s greenery. 1) 10 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District. (6463 1108); 2) Daily 11.30am-10pm. 1 Houshayu Zhen, Shayu Lu, Shunyi District. (8042 2291); 3) Daily 11am-late. 15A Guanghua Lu (200m east of Ritan Park South Gate), Chaoyang District. (8562 6439) 申德勒加油站, 1) 朝阳区三里屯北小街10号; 2) 顺义区沙峪路后沙峪镇1号; 3) 朝阳区光华路甲 15号(日坛南门往东200米)

GUIZHOU & GUANGXI Characterized by dishes that are light on onion and ginger, and flavors that are tart and slightly spicy. Includes Miao minority style cooking. Miao Minority Restaurant This restaurant caters to the dinner-and-show type crowd with its nightly Miao minority show. Dishes include Guizhou-style dog meat hot pot. 1) Daily 10am-2pm, 4-9.30pm. 300m north of the west gate of Tsinghua University, Haidian District. (6256 9150); 2) Daily 11am-1.30pm, 4-9pm. 54 Fuxingmen Dajie (across from Minzugong), Xicheng District. (6607 9738) 盛祥, 1) 海淀区清华大学西门北侧300米路西; 2) 西城区复兴门大街54号(民族宫对面) Private Kitchen 44 An attractively converted courtyard residence serving Guizhou signatures like suantang yu. Daily 11am11pm. 44 Xiguan Hutong, Beixinqiao, Dongcheng District. (6400 1280) www. xiguanhutong44.coku.com 私家厨房, 东城区细管胡同44号

savory sesame dipping sauce to accompany the goods: lamb, lots of lamb. Voted “Outstanding Hot Pot” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Yuanjia International Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (opposite East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng District. (6417 9289); 2) Daily 11.30am-11pm. 1/F, 14 Dongzhong Jie, Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District. (6417 2546); 3) Daily 11am-10pm. Bldg 7, Guoxing Jiayuan, Shouti Nanlu, Haidian District. (8835 7775/7779); 4) Daily 11am-10pm. 6/F, Shin Kong Place, 87 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (6530 5997/7172) 鼎鼎香, 1) 东城区东直门外东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓 2层; 2) 东城区东直门外东中街14号1层; 3) 海淀区首体南路国兴家园7号楼1-2层; 4) 朝阳区建国路87号新光天地6楼D6006号 Dong Lai Shun Beijingers love to dunk, or shuan their halal mutton in this laozihao’s traditional copper boiling pots. 1) Daily 11am-10pm. 5/F, APM Mall, 138 Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6528 0932); 2) Daily 6.30am-9.30am, 11am-9pm. 12 Xinyuanxili Zhongjie, Chaoyang District, Chaoyang District. (6467 3707/6460 0671) 东来顺, 1) 东城区王府井大街138号新东安大厦5楼; 2) 朝阳区新源西里中街 12号 Fuhua Feiniu With as many laowai as Chinese customers, this crowd-pleasing Muslim hot pot restaurant has invested where it really counts: fresh meat and veggies and stand-out sesame sauce. Daily 10am-2pm, 4.30-10pm. 3 Zaoying Beili, Maizidian, Chaoyang District. (6586 7195) 富华肥牛, 朝阳区麦子店枣营北里3号 Haidilao Hot Pot This popular eatery is as famous for its hospitality as it is for its authentic Sichuan cuisine. Voted “Best Hot Pot” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 24hrs. 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (next to No. 80 Middle School), Chaoyang District. (6595 2982); 2) Daily 24hrs. 7/F, New Wedding Shopping Center, 109 Xidan Beidajie, Xicheng District. (6617 4063); 3) Daily 10.30am-3am. 3/F, Beiyue Dasha, 2A Huixin Dongjie, Chaoyang District. (8463 9300) 海底捞火锅, 1) 朝阳区白家庄路甲 2号 (八十中学西侧); 2) 西城区西单北大街 109号婚庆大楼7层; 3) 朝阳区惠新东街甲 2号北奥大厦3层 I Rock My Pot No false advertising: this individual hot pot joint will rock your world. Daily 10.30am-2pm, 5-10pm. 37-38 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (5879 0999) 锅儿滚, 朝阳区朝外大街37-38号(昆泰国际中心步行街) Little Sheep Nationwide chain serves mutton hot pot with a twist: a special cuminbased broth. No dipping sauce required. Voted “Outstanding Hot Pot” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 10ammidnight. Northwest corner of Caishikou

intersection, Xuanwu District. (6316 6668); 2) Daily 24hours. 209 Dongzhimennei Dajie, Dongcheng District. (8400 1669) 小肥羊, 1) 宣武区菜市口路口西北角; 2) 东城区东直门内大街209号 The Loft This hotpot chain epitomizes Beijing’s ambitious restaurant scene. There are crafty design gimmicks, a large menu, and over-the-top fusion food (foie gras stuffed meatballs, anyone?). Daily 11am-11.30pm. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6501 7501) 藏酷, 朝阳区工体北路4号院内

HUAIYANG Exquisite knife skills in this type of cooking means beautiful presentations. Summer Palace Light and delicious Huaiyang and Cantonese cuisine cooked with flair. Check out their daily tea cocktails. Daily 11.30am-2pm, 6-10pm. Lobby, China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6505 2266 ext 34) 夏宫中餐厅, 朝阳区建国门外大街1号中国大饭店大堂 Xihe Yaju Foreigners and Chinese alike flock to this upscale restaurant set in a traditional courtyard that borders Ritan Park. Daily 11am-2pm, 5-10pm. Northeast corner of Ritan Park, Chaoyang District. (8561 7643) 羲和雅居, 朝阳区日坛公园东北角 Z.Y.X. HYC Don’t miss the “lion head” meatballs and wild mountain greens, a native specialty. Daily 9.30am-2pm, 4.30-10pm. 5 Haoyun Jie, 29 Zaoying Lu, Chaoyang District. (5867 0276) 南国紫钰轩, 朝阳区枣营路29号好运街5号

HUNAN & HUBEI Hubei: Famous for its freshwater fish, tender meat and thick soups that go well with rice. Hunan: Thick and pungent in flavor. Dishes use copious amounts of chili, pepper and shallots. Karaiya Spice House Foreigner friendly Hunan fare in a choice location, courtesy of Alan Wong. aily 11.30am-2pm, 5.3010pm. Bldg 8, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6415 3535) 朝阳区朝阳区三里屯路19号The Village南区8号楼 Liujia Guo Hunan restaurant famous for its bu er guo – a fish soup served in a huge clay pot that can feed four. Daily 10am11pm. 19 Nanheyan Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6524 1487) 刘家锅, 东城区南河沿大街19号 Tanzhou Jiulou Excellent smoked duck. Brilliant dishes in a rough environment. Daily 11am-11pm. Bldg 1, Huajiadi Beili (north side of the post office), Chaoyang District. (6473 4418) 潭州酒楼, 朝阳区花家地北里1号楼 (邮局北边)

Three Guizhou Men Artsy-fartsy dining establishment with very tasty Guizhou-style favorites. Be sure to try the suantangyu (sour fish soup), xiangban bohe (fragrant peppermint salad). 1) Daily 10am-11pm. 2/ F, Nalisa Building, 1 Guangshun Nandajie, Chaoyang District. (6470 7288); 2) Daily 24hrs. Inside the West Gate of Workers’ Stadium (above Coco Banana), Chaoyang District. (6551 8517); 3) Daily 10am10pm. 6 Guanghua Xili, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District. (6502 1733); 4) Daily 11am-10pm. Bldg 7, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5869 0598); 5) Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm. 58 Beisihuan Xilu (Southeast corner of Haidian Book City), Haidian District. (8260 7678); 6) Daily 9.30am-10.30pm. Bldg 3, 2 Qu, Fengya Yuan, Huilongguan, Changping District. (8171 5880) 三个贵州人, 1) 朝阳区广顺南大街 1号娜丽萨大厦2层; 2) 朝阳区工体西门内; 3) 朝阳区建国门外光华西里6号; 4) 朝阳区东三环中路39建外 Soho7号楼; 5) 海淀区北四环西路58号(海淀图书城东南角); 6) 昌平区回龙观风雅园二区3号楼

HOT POT Raw foods brought to your table and cooked in a bubbling broth. Tastes vary with regional styles. Ding Ding Xiang The secret is in the sauce: this popular hot pot place has delicious,

Can't find what you're looking for? Check out the Dining Directory Index on p41

www.thebeijinger.com

October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 51 that’smags

DINING

Maison Boulud à Pékin Famous New York chef Daniel Boulud brings his take on French food to Beijing. Excellent food and service. Voted “Best French,” “Outstanding Place for a Romantic Meal,” “Outstanding Service,” and “Best Wine List” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, 6-10.30pm, Sat-Sun 11am4pm, 6-10.30pm. Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6559 9200) 布鲁客法餐厅, 东城区前门东大街23号

东城区王府井东街8号希尔顿北京王府井酒店5层

For a comprehensive directory, see www.thebeijinger.com IMPERIAL Eat like an emperor. A wide range of dishes with light flavors and exquisite presentation paying careful attention to color, smell and taste. Fangshan Restaurant Great service and Cixi’s favorites, for just less than the price of a marble boat. Daily 11am-2pm, 5-8pm. 1 Wenjin Jie (inside Beihai Park, enter via east gate), Xicheng District. (6401 1889) 仿膳饭庄, 西城区文津街1号北海公园东门内

际公寓底商5号; 4) 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶地下1层138A Hazara High quality with prices to match served in a stylish, intimate setting. Voted “Outstanding Decor” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Accepts foreign currencies, Visa and Mastercard. Tue-Sun 5.30-10.30pm. Inside Face bar, 26 Dongcaoyuan, Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6551 6788) 朝阳区工体南路东草园26号

DINING

Li Jia Cai Mr Li’s house restaurant serves set meals of Imperial-style food in an unpretentious setting at high prices. English is spoken and reservations are a must. Daily 11am-1.30pm, 5-8.30pm. 11 Yangfang Hutong, Deshengmennei Dajie, Xicheng District. (6618 0107) 厉家菜, 西城区德胜门内大街洋房胡同11号

Mei Wei Zhen With complex concoctions like the “Buddha Jumps the Wall,” they specialize in high-end imperial cuisine. Daily 10am-10pm. 1) 48 Xihai Nanyan, Xicheng District. (8328 4099); 2) 1/F, Novotel Peace, 3 Jinyu Hutong, Dongcheng District. (6559 7672); 3) L124, 1/F, West Wing, China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguonemwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6505 6139) 美味珍御膳, 1) 西城区西海南沿48号; 2) 东城区王府井金鱼胡同3号诺富特和平宾馆首层东侧; 3) 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸西楼1层L124 Red Capital Club The place to impress out of town guests, the Red Capital Club’s courtyard setting capitalizes on nostalgic kitsch and well-known Beijing dishes. Daily 6pm-midnight. 66 Dongsi Jiutiao, Dongcheng District. (6402 7150, 8401 8886) 新红资俱乐部, 东城区东四九条66号

Mirch Masala Tasty, authentic and affordable in a pleasant, well-lit environment. Vegetarian and vegan friendly. Delivery also available. 1) Mon 5-10.30pm; Tue-Sun 11am-2.30pm, 5pm-10.30pm. 130, Bldg 2, Ritan Highlife,(across from the North Gate of Ritan Park), Chaoyang District. (8563 6304); 2) Mon-Sat 11am-2.30pm, 5-10.30pm, Sun 11am-10.30pm. 60-2 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (6406 4347) www.mirchmasala.com.cn 马沙拉之香, 1) 朝阳区雅宝路日坛公园北门日坛上街 2号楼130号; 2) 东城区南锣鼓巷60-2号 Mughal’s Beijing Their tikka masalas are especially worth trying. Also offers weekdays set lunch and summertime terrace seating. Daily 11am-3pm, 611pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (5208 6082/134 , 6638 2160, mughalbeijing@yahoo.com) www. mughalbeijing.cn 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园4层

Red meat and wine, fish and seafood - not to mention great olive oil and pasta. Classic Mediterranean fare. See also: European.

Annie’s Unpretentious, affordable Italian food that’s very popular with our readers. Set lunch menu and other specials. Voted “Best Italian,” “Outstanding Family-Friendly Restaurant” and “Best Value” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Free delivery. 1) 11am-11pm. Ritan High Life 2-3-93, (across from North Gate of Ritan Park), Chaoyang District. (8569 3031); 2) Daily 11.30am-11pm. 16 Dongsanhuan Lu (next to CD Jazz Club), Chaoyang District. (6503 3871); 3) Daily 11am-11pm. West Gate of Soho New Town, 88 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (8589 8366); 4) Daily 11am-11pm. A1 Nongzhan Nanlu (near the west gate of Chaoyang Park), Chaoyang District. (6591 1931); 5) Daily 11am-11pm. Jiuxianqiao, Jiangtai Lu, Shangye Jie, Chaoyang District. (6436 3735); 6) Daily 11.30am-11pm. Across from Western Academy Beijing, 5 Laiguangying Donglu, Chaoyang District. (8470 4768) 安妮, 1) 朝阳区神路街39号日坛上街2-3-93; 2) 朝阳区东三环路16号 (农展馆正门南侧); 3) 朝阳区建国路88号 Soho现代城西门; 4) 朝阳区农展南路甲1号 (朝阳公园西门南侧); 5) 朝阳区酒仙桥将台路商业街; 6) 朝阳区来广营东路5号京西学校对面 Assaggi Don’t miss their tasty fresh pasta and home-made bread. Voted “Outstanding Italian” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily noon-2.30pm, 6.30-11pm. 1 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District. (8454 4508) 尝试, 朝阳区三里屯北小街1号 Barolo Casual yet upscale Italian with an open kitchen. Mon-Sat 11.30am-2pm, 6-10pm. 2/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (5908 8888) 巴罗洛, 朝阳区建国路甲83

INDIAN/PAKISTANI

52 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

ITALIAN

Agrilandia Fresh ingredients grown on site; great suburban locale ensures lots of room for the kids and dogs to scamper. Daily 9am-9pm. Baigezhuangcun, Mapozhen, Shunyi District. (6940 7700, 130 0127 1094) www.agrilandia.cn 意大利农场, 顺义区马坡镇白各庄村

Copious amounts of herbs and other natural seasonings create flavorful curries and tandoori dishes served with rice, dal (lentils) and naan bread.

Ganges Indian Restaurant Experience authentic Indian cuisine at Ganges Indian Restaurant, offering over 180 items in the menu including both southern and northern Indian classics like chicken tikka masala and lamb roganjosh. Tailor-made menu parties can be arranged for large parties. Voted “Outstanding Indian/Pakistani” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11am-11pm. 1) S93-3, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6416 0181/6121); 2) Sancaitang Xiezi Lou, 160 Chengfu Lu, Haidian District. (6262 7944); 3) 5/B, Hairun International Apartment, 2 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (5135 8353); 4) 138A, B1/F, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6587 2999) www.ganges-restaurant.com 恒河印度餐厅, 1) 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 VillageS93-3; 2) 海淀区成府路160号三才堂写字楼1层13号; 3) 朝阳区将台路2号海润国

walls and Indian dancers are just enough to distract from the high prices and overly formal service. Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.3010pm. 1/F, Zhaolong Hotel, 2 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6597 2211, 6597 2299 ext 2112) 天都里印度餐厅, 朝阳区工体北路 2号兆龙饭店1层

The Taj Pavilion Popular and a reliable favorite. Voted “Best Indian/Pakistani” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 1) L222, Europlaza, 99 Yuxiang Lu, Tianzhu Zhen, Shunyi District. (8046 3238); 2) 1/F, West Wing, China World Shopping Mall (next to KFC), Chaoyang District. (6505 5866); 3) 3/F, Holiday Inn Lido, Jiangtai Lu, Shoudu Jichang Lu, Chaoyang District. (6436 7678, 6437 6688 ext 3811) 泰姬楼印度餐厅, 1) 顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆时尚购物中心 L222室; 2) 朝阳区国贸西楼1层肯德基旁边; 3) 朝阳区首都机场路将台路丽都假日酒店广场缤纷廊3层

Cantina Sadler A stripped-back menu of rustic pizza, pasta and salads, and plenty of wines by the glass. Daily noon-2pm, 6.30-10.30pm. Inside Ristorante Sadler, Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6559 1399) 东城区前门东大街23号 Cepe Offers authentic northern Italian cuisine in a modern, trendy setting. The low-key atmosphere makes it the perfect place for a romantic dinner. Daily 11am2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz-Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District. (6629 6996) 意味轩, 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店大堂 Ciro’s Pomodoro An international chain, this spacious Italian diner has nightly performances, DJs, live bands, a long extended bar, and alfresco seating. Daily 11am-3am. 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5208 6008) 波莫多洛, 朝阳区三里屯北路81号 Daccapo A contemporary Italian restaurant with plenty of flair and a great wine selection. Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 2/F, The Regent Beijing, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District. (8522 1789) 迪卡博意大利餐厅, 东城区金宝街99号北京丽晶酒店2层

The Tandoor Good food, mirror-covered

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Da Giorgio Sophisticated and simple in both decor and food. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm. 2/F, Grand Hyatt Beijing Hotel, Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an Jie, Dongcheng District. (6510 9628) 意餐厅, 东城区东长安街1号东方广场北京东方君悦大酒店二层

Danieli’s Tastefully decorated; good service and food. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, 6-10pm, Sat-Sun 6-10pm. 2/F, St Regis Hotel, 21 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6460 6688 ext 2441) 丹尼艾丽意大利餐厅, 朝阳区建国门外大街21号国际俱乐部饭店二层 Ecco Traditional Italian in a relaxing atmosphere. Daily 6-10pm. Four Points by Sheraton Beijing, Tower 1, 25 Yuanda Lu, Haidian District. (8889 8888) 海淀区远大路 1号北京海淀福朋喜来登酒店 Igosso Elegant venue featuring excellent pastas and polenta. Live jazz on Friday nights. Daily 10am-1am. Gongti Donglu (Inside Workers’ Stadium East Gate), Chaoyang District. (6551 5655) 朝阳区工体东路工人体育场东门内 La Dolce Vita Authentic oven-fired pizza as well as a wide range of pastas and salads. Voted “Outstanding Italian” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Free delivery within a 3km radius. Daily 10.30am10.30pm. 8 Bei Xindong Lu, Chaoyang District. (6468 2894) 甜蜜生活, 朝阳区新东路北段8号 La Fattoria This hidden gem of Neapolitan cuisine serves up more than just pasta. Daily 11am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. Shop 5, Xintiandi, Phoenix City, Shuguang Xili, Chaoyang District. (5866 7072) 朝阳区曙光西里凤凰新天地5号商铺 Little Italy Modest family-style Italian restaurant featuring a good selection of pastas, pizzas and desserts. Delivery and catering services available. Daily 10am-10pm. 813 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District. (8046 4679) 小意大利, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场813号 Meeting Point Airy, friendly neighborhood Italian restaurant specializes in cucina Italia with an Abruzzese touch. Daily 11am-10pm. B103, Landgent Center, 20 Dongsanhuan Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6775 8063) 朝阳区朝阳区东三环中路20号（双井桥）乐成中心美食广场B103 Metro This cozy, romantic place is one of Beijing’s oldest Italian restaurants, where diners can match sauces and freshly made pastas, and select from a fine wine list. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm; Sat-Sun 11.30am-10pm. 9 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6552 7828) 美特柔, 朝阳区工体西路9号 O Sole Mio Serving pizza, pasta and all your other Italian standards, no surprises, though the cozy atmosphere is nice. Daily 10.30am-midnight. 1/F, Jiezuo Dasha, 55 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (6417 7022) 朝阳区幸福村中路55号杰座大厦1层 Piazza Italia Three floors of Italian culinary items galore: a deli and café (level 1), grocery store and cooking school (level 2), and Italian restaurant Boscolo (level 3). Daily 8am-10pm (grocery), 10am-10pm (cafe and deli). Shop L02, Bldg 18, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (5200 8080) 朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心18号楼LO2 Prego A modern Italian restaurant serving authentic regional home-style dishes prepared by an Italian chef. Daily 11am11.30pm. 1/F, The Westin Beijing, 9B Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District. (6606 8866 ext 7815) 意大利餐厅, 西城区金融大街乙9号北京金融街威斯汀大酒店1层 Ristorante Sadler Owned by two-star Michelin chef Claudio Sadler, this restaurant delivers well-executed dishes and a gourmet food shop. Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6559 1399) 东城区前门东大街23号 Sapori d’Italia A venue for showcasing Italian wines. They also have a wine club where members can enjoy regular tastings from their sizeable cellar. Daily 11am-11pm. 11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District. (6593 2079) 意之乡, 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街甲11号

3939); 2) Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm. 2/F, Heqiao Bldg C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6581 3939) 隐泉日本料理, 1) 朝阳区三里屯路19号The Village南区8号楼S8-30; 2) 朝阳区光华路甲8号和乔大厦C座2层

Toscana Italian Restaurant This Tuscanyinspired restaurant is a prime spot for CBDers during lunchtime. Daily 10am10pm. 1/F, Uni-construction Building, 25 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (6508 4265) 托斯卡纳, 朝阳区东三环中路 25号住总大厦1层 Trattoria La Gondola Elegant decor and a well-developed wine list could convince you that you’re in Venice. Prices and service to match the hotel location. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm and 5.30-11pm. Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6465 3388 ext 5707) 意大利威尼斯餐厅, 朝阳区凯宾斯基饭店亮马桥路50号 Va Piano This chic and sexy place combines cheerful colors, dark tones and art pieces to create a mood both playful and refined. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm. 8 Beichen Xilu, Chaoyang District. (8437 1188) 朝阳区北辰西路8号院4号楼

JAPANESE Raw fish, udon noodles and curries that lean towards the sweet side of the flavor spectrum. Ajitoku Tokyo-style restaurant serves a variety of innovative Japanese dishes in an industrial-chic setting. Mon-Sat 11.30am2.30pm, 5.30-9.30pm. Bldg C, B113, Raycom Infotech Park, 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Zhongguancun, Haidian District. (8286 1993) 味德日本料理, 海淀区科学院南路2号 (北四环中关村3号桥南拐100米路西) 融科资讯中心C座地下一层 Baweifang Japanese-style grill roasts up high-quality, high-priced imported meats from Japan and the US. Daily 11.30am11pm. Chaoyang Park West Gate, inside the No. 8 Apartments, Chaoyang District. (6500 5555) 八味坊, 朝阳区朝阳公园西门八号公馆内 Fukunoshima Authentic and fresh Japanese cuisine that offers six different menus plus a teppanyaki and sushi bar that can seat up to 120 people. Daily 10am-10pm. Phoenix City, Sanyuan Qiao, Chaoyang District. (5866 8630) 福之岛日本餐厅, 朝阳区三元桥凤凰商街 Gin Chow down on some of Japan’s best bar snacks in the sleek, black and blondschemed dining room of this izakaya. Daily 6pm-2am. 501, E-Tower, 12C Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6592 6198) 呤, 朝阳区光华路12号丙数码01大厦501室 Haiku by Hatsune Aims to outdo Hatsune with a sexier ambiance and an all-encompassing menu - soups and salads, yakitori, karaage, etc. Daily 11.30am2.30pm,6-11.30pm. Block 8, 3/F, (above Kong Yiji) south side of No. 8 Apartments on Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6508 8585 ext 203) www.block8. cn 隐泉之语, 朝阳区朝阳公园西门8号公馆内南侧3层 Hatsune Voted “Best Japanese” in our 2009 Reader Restaurant Awards. Both of the stylish venues specialize in unique sushi and hand rolls. 1) Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. S8-30 (Opposite Element Fresh), Bldg 8, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6415

Jiu Yuan Certified organic restaurant whoose delicious farm fresh veggies outshine the wagyu beef and sashimi platters. Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-9.30pm. 2/F, North Bldg, Longbo Guangchang, 16 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6595 1199) 久源, 朝阳区东三环北路16号隆博广场北楼二层 Kagen Stainless steel tables, black slate floors and cool electronica music to accompany tasty marinated meat grilled fresh at each table. Daily 10.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm. B1/F, Bldg C, Heqiao Dasha, 8 Guanghua Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6583 6830) 火源, 朝阳区光华东路8号和乔大厦C座地下1层 Kagoya Hachibay Expensive Japanese yakiniku dining in a five-star hotel setting. Daily 11am-2pm, 6-10pm. 6/F, Sofitel Hotel, Tower C, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu (next to Wanda International Cineplex), Chaoyang District. (6581 0072ï¼Œ85996666 ext6226) 笼屋八兵卫, 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座索菲特酒店6层 Matsuko Great lunchtime buffet with sushi, sashimi, noodles and more. Voted “Outstanding Japanese” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Mon-Fri 11.30am2pm,5-10.30pm, Sat-Sun 11am-2.30pm, 5-10.30pm. 1) 39 Liangmaqiao Lu (opposite 21st Century hotel), Chaoyang District. (8453 4062); 2) Baijiazhuang (south east corner of Changhong Qiao), Chaoyang District. (6582 5208); 3) 2/F, Jinglong Dasha, 225 Chaoyang Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6509 8999) 松子, 1) 朝阳区亮马桥39号（21世纪饭店对面）; 2) 朝阳区星期五餐厅对面松阪屋; 3) 朝阳区朝阳北路 225号京龙大厦2层 Molika This izakaya – the Japanese equivalent of a gastro-pub – offers a large range of sashimi, sushi and, of course, sake. Daily 11am-1am. 1/F, CITS attached building (next to the Peninsula), 1 Dongdan Beidajie, Dongcheng District. (6523 6744) 盛香居酒屋, 东城区东单北大街1号国旅大厦配楼1层

Takewaka With a dining room arranged around a 20-cubic-meter fish pond, Takewaka makes a point of the freshness of its sushi. Daily 11am-2pm, 5.3010.30pm. 5/F, Twin Towers, 25 Yonganli Zhongjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District. (5120 8881) 竹若, 朝阳区建国门外永安里中街25号双子座大厦5层购物中心西侧 Teppanyaki Show Bar Emphasis on “show” – teppan chefs cook up fresh, thin slices of marbled beef, lobster and abalone in style with diners gathered around the grill. The buffet features everything on the menu – including sushi, sashimi, a salad bar and teppanyaki. Daily 11am-11pm. 23 Haoyun Jie, 29 Zaoying Lu, Chaoyang District. (5867 0238) 雅玛花式铁板烧餐吧, 朝阳区枣营路29号好运街23号 Todai At this Japanese all-you-can-eat, size matters. Offerings include sashimi, sushi, pizzas, seafood, dim sum, tandoori, stir-fries, teppanyaki, crepe machines and a chocolate fountain. Daily 11.30am2.30pm, 5.30-10pm. Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6888) 都太, 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾商业区 Tokugawa-Ya Very good all-you-can-eat buffets. Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm. Section 1, 26 Anhuili, Yayuncun, Chaoyang District. (6496 2739) 德川家, 朝阳区亚运村安慧里1区26号 Votaro Famous among Japanese and Korean students for its classic cuisine and moderate prices. Daily 11.30am-2.30am. 6/F, Dongyuan Plaza, 35 Chengfu Lu (next to the light-rail station), Haidian District. (6252 3831) 鱼太郎, 海淀区成府路35号东源大厦6层 Yotsuba With fish flown in from Tokyo’s Tsukiji market several times a week, Yotsuba serves incomparably fresh traditional Japanese fare. Regulars come here for dishes that are served nowhere else in Beijing and at a fourth of the price of Tokyo. Voted “Outstanding Japanese” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Call ahead several days for reservations; large parties are not recommended. 1) Tue-Sun 5-11pm. Next to Bldg 2, Xinyuan Xili Zhongjie (near Xindong Lu), Chaoyang District. (6467 1837); 2) Daily 11.30am-2pm, 510pm. 2/F, Bldg 8, Lakeview Place, Dragon Bay Villa, Shayu Huanlu, Houshayu, Shunyi District. (8042 2284) 四叶, 1) 朝阳区新源西里中街2号楼旁(近新东路); 2) 顺义区后沙峪镇沙峪环路8号楼2层

Inside the Jingyu Hotel courtyard, 1 Tsinghua Donglu, Wudaokou, Haidian District. (6234 9997) 美都波, 海淀区五道口清华东路 1号京裕宾馆内 Han Na Shan With more than 30 locations scattered around town, this is one of Beijing’s most popular Korean BBQ places. Voted “Best Korean” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 10.30am-11pm. 1) 8 Huayuan Donglu (near the Guo’an Theater), Haidian District. (8203 7888/6886); 2) 11A Chunxiu Lu, Chaoyang District. (6417 8377) 汉拿山, 1) 海淀区花园东路8号(国安剧院附近); 2) 朝阳区春秀路甲11号 Oh Jook Hun Serves imperial Korean cuisine featuring raw fish, organic farm vegetables and a bewildering assortment of kimchi dishes that go down well with bamboo-cooked rice. Set menus or a la carte are available. Daily 11am-9.30pm. 1 Haoyun Jie, 29 Zaoying Lu, Chaoyang District. (5867 0230) 乌竹轩, 朝阳区枣营路 29号好运街第一家 Sa Lang Bang Classic Korean food sitting cross-legged on straw mats, the traditional Korean way. Daily 11am-5am. 3/F, Dongyuan Plaza, 35 Chengfu Lu, Haidian District. (8261 8201) 舍廊房, 海淀区成府路 35号东源大厦3层 Saveurs de Corée Relax on a rooftop seat at this sophisticated Korean bistro, where the dishes are delicate, health-conscious, and intelligently proportioned. Voted “Outstanding Korean” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily noon-10.30pm. 29 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (6401 6083) www.saveursdecoree.com.cn 韩香馆, 东城区南锣鼓巷29号 Sorabol High-priced chain of Korean restaurants serves standards like bulgolgi, banfan and delicious raw beef. Voted “Outstanding Korean” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 9am-10pm. 2/F, Landmark Towers, 8 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6590 0630); 2) Daily 10am-10pm. Basement, Lufthansa Centre, Chaoyang District. (6465 3388 ext 5720) 萨拉伯尔, 1) 朝阳区东三环北路8号亮马河大厦二层; 2) 朝阳区燕莎地下一层 Suraon Style over substance is the theme at this upscale Korean restaurant, housed in an imitation water cube. Daily 9.30am10.30pm. Side Gongyuan 9-8, Jiangtai Xilu, Chaoyang District. (8456 8008) 禧莱恩, 朝阳区将台西路四得公园9-8

MEDITERRANEAN Dining experience includes herbs and wines of Southern Europe to the spices of Northern Africa.

Beihai Dao Hip foreign students and yummy pots of lemon soju. Daily 24 hours. 2/F, Xijiao Hotel Health Club, Wudaokou, Haidian District. (6233 5776) 北海道, 海淀区五道口西郊宾馆康乐中心二层

Greek Delicacy All your Greek favorites served fast and easy. 1) Mon-Fri 11am9pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. Solana Lifestyle Shopping Park, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6380); 2) Daily 10am-11pm. 5/F U-Centre, Wudaokou, Haidian District. (6266 6100) 1) 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区; 2) 海淀区五道口购物中心5层

Charcoal Bar Various cuts of top-grade meat and preparations of beef and pork over an open flame. Daily 10.30am-2am.

The Olive Salads, sandwiches, steaks, dinner, health food, juice and desserts. Daily 10.30am-10.30pm. Stall E-101, 6 Jiangtai

KOREAN Seemingly endless varieties of kimchi, other spicy pickled vegetables and savory bbq.

Morio J-Cuisine At this restaurant opened by international chef Morio Sakayori, diners have a choice between traditional Japanese dishes or their nouveau updates. Daily 10am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 1/F, 7 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6551 6999) 朝阳区工体西路7 Shiro Matsu High-market Japanese restaurant boasts a mesmerizing environment and exceptional attention to culinary detail – most notably, in their dissection of the fugu fish. Daily 6-11pm. Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6559 6266) 东城区前门东大街23号 Suzuki Japanese regulars flock to Mr. Suzuki’s hidden office building restaurant for pickled octopus, Kobe beef and other treats. Daily 11am-2pm, 5-11pm. 30 Hetao Yuan, Guandongdian Beijie, Chaoyang Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5138 9826) 铃木, 朝阳区朝阳北路关东店北街核桃园30号 Takenosuke Authentic Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki omelettes and teppanyaki.

Can't find what you're looking for? Check out the Dining Directory Index on p41

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October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 53 that’smags

DINING

Tavola Excellent Neapolitan-style Italian cuisine in a setting that works equally well for intimate dinners or group events. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm. 2/F, The Grand Summit, Section B, Liangmaqiao Diplomatic Mansion, 19 Dongfang Donglu, Chaoyang District. (8532 5068) www.tavola-bj.com 朝阳区东方东路19号亮马桥外交公寓会所2层

Isshin Japanese Sushi Restaurant Cool decor and mellow aural ambience. Good set meals at reasonable prices. 1) Daily 11am2pm, 5-10pm. Door 3, Bldg B, Ziguang Development Plaza, 11 Huixin Dongjie, Chaoyang District. (6482 3600); 2) Daily 11am-2pm, 5-10pm. 35 Chengfu Lu (30m north of the traffic lights next to Wudaokou subway station), Haidian District. (8261 0136); 3) Daily 11am-1.30pm, 5-9pm. 2/F, Bldg 1, Oversea Student Dormitory, Beijing Normal University, Haidian District. (5880 9785); 4) Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.3010pm. Rm 1501, Bldg 15, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5869 5769) 一心日本料理, 1) 朝阳区惠新东街11号紫光发展大厦B座3单元; 2) 海淀区城府路35号院（五道口城铁站旁信号灯往北 30米路西院内）; 3) 海淀区北京师范大学留学生公寓二层; 4) 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外Soho15号楼1501

Mon-Fri 5-11pm, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm. 27 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6431 8238) 武之助, 朝阳区亮马桥路27号

For a comprehensive directory, see www.thebeijinger.com Lu, Chaoyang District. (6430 1181) 朝阳区将台路6号E-101室 Sureño Modern Mediterranean cuisine from its beautiful open kitchen with wood-fired ovens. Daily noon-11.30pm. B1/F, The Opposite House, The Village at Sanlitun, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6410 5240) www.surenorestaurant. com 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯Village瑜舍地下1层 Taverna This rustic-chic Mediterranean tavern offers charming presentation and ambiance. Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 1949-The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (behind Pacific Century Place), Chaoyang District. (6501 8882) 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (盈科中心南面)

DINING

MIDDLE EASTERN Lamb dishes chock full of dill, mint, cinnamon, oregano and pepper as well as hummus and flaky filo dough-based dishes. 1001 Nights Some of the best Middle Eastern food in Beijing -- falafel, tabouleh, hummus and kebabs. Nightly belly dancing. Voted “Best Middle Eastern” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11am2am. Gongti Beilu (opposite Zhaolong Hotel), Chaoyang District. (6532 4050) www.1001nights.cn 1001夜, 朝阳区工体北路兆龙饭店对面 Dareen Coffee Delicious hummus and falafel as well as great coffees and cakes. Daily 7am-midnight. 29 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6415 0557) 达琳咖啡, 朝阳区三里屯路29号

Rumi Beijing’s only purveyor of Persian cuisine. Its plush, minimalist interior is inviting, but the savory kebabs seal the deal. Voted “Outstanding Middle Eastern” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11.30am-midnight. 1A Gongti Beilu (opposite Zhaolong Hotel), Chaoyang District. (8454 3838) www.rumigrill.com 入迷, 朝阳区工体北路甲1号兆龙饭店对面 Shash Though hard to find, this Uzbekistani restaurant’s specialties include tandoor-baked dishes and excellent chuan’r. Daily 11am-10pm. 10 Xiangjun Beili (next to Saint Angel Hotel), Hujialou, Chaoyang Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5190 7230/7236/7239) 沙市, 朝阳区呼家楼向军北里4巷10号

ern fare within the quiet environs of Chaoyang Park. Daily 5pm-2am. West Gate of Chaoyang Park (in the alley behind Annie’s), Chaoyang District. (6506 7309) 苏克会馆, 朝阳区朝阳公园西门（安妮后面） The Village Good falafels, hummus and unsweetened yogurt, as well as skewers, meat pies, risotto and pizza. Daily 24hrs. Unit 20, Bldg 1, 39 Shenlu Jie, Chaoyang District. (8569 0411) 乡村小镇, 朝阳区神路街39号1号楼20号 Turkish Mum The name is no joke -- there really is a Turkish mom here, dishing up dolmas, kebabs and soups. Daily 11ammidnight. 3 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (8532 3979) 土耳其妈妈, 朝阳区工体北路3号 Za’atar With a nice view of the lake in the new Lakeview Shopping Center, this colorful restaurant offers delicious and authentice Middle Eastern food. Try the baba ghannouje. Daily 11.30am-10pm. Unit 2, Bldg 3, Lakeview Place (by Dragon Bay Villas), Shayu Huanlu, Houshayu, Shunyi District. (8042 2248) www.zaatarbj.com 百里香阿拉伯餐厅, 顺义区后沙峪镇沙峪环路3号2单元

PIZZA Italian favorite adopted by many countries and cultures. For more extensive Italian food listings see: Italian or European. Hutong Pizza Some of the best pizzas in Beijing, tasty veggie burgers, draft beer and wine in a beautifully restored traditional home. Voted “Outstanding Pizza” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Local delivery available. Daily 11am-11pm. 9 Yindingqiao Hutong, Xicheng District. (8322 8916) 胡同比萨, 西城区银锭桥胡同9号 The Kro’s Nest American-styled pizza joint, serving up its infamous “gigantic” pizzas along with onion rings, fries, wings and draft beers. Voted “Outstanding Pizza” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Mon-Thu 10am-10pm, Fri-Sun 10am11pm. Inside Workers’ Stadium North Gate (next to Vics), Chaoyang District. (6553 5253); 2) Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, SatSun 10am-midnight. 1 Fuyuanmen (400 meters north of Beijing University West Gate, on the northwest corner of the intersection), Haidian District. (6252 8057); 3) Tue-Thu 11am-10pm, Fri-Sat 11am11pm. Bldg B, Youyan Dasha, 2 Beitaiping Zhuang Qiao, Xicheng District. (8201 4899) www.thekrosnest.com 乌巢, 1) 朝阳区工体北门内; 2) 海淀区福缘门1号 (从北大西门往北走400米，在路口的西北角); 3) 西城区北太平庄桥2号有研大厦B座 La Pizza A large brick oven is the focal point of this jolly pizzeria, where a comically rotund Italian chef bakes 12-inch pizzas loaded with yummy toppings. Daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. SA-48, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6106) 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区3号楼SA-48 Peppes American and Italian style pizzas and decent appetizers. Daily 11am-midnight. S4-34, 3/F, Bldg 4, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6415 0888) 派乐仕匹萨, 朝阳区三里屯北路19号三里屯Village南区4号楼3-4层 Pizza Buona Thin crust pies with traditional toppings. Daily 10.30am-midnight. 7 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6551 3518) 百好乐, 朝阳区工体西路7号 Pyro Pizza Classic thin-crust pizza served up with a good selection of affordable draft beers. Daily 11am-3am. B1/F, Bldg 12, Huaqing Jiayuan, Wudaokou (5 min from Wudaokou subway station), Haidian District. (8286 6240) 海淀区五道口华清嘉园12号楼地下1层

Sim Sim This Middle Eastern restaurant near Ritan Park offers RMB 39 business lunch specials and daily happy hours (noon to 5pm) when main courses are 20% off. Daily noon-2am. 3/F, 39 Ritan Highlife (opposite north gate of Ritan Park), Chaoyang District. (8569 3102/03) 西姆西姆, 朝阳区朝阳区神路街39号院0391<日坛公园北门对面3层

The Tree Enjoy these popular thin-crust pies, and wash everything down with a Belgian beer. Voted “Best Pizza” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily noon-2am. 43 Sanlitun Beijie (100m west of Sanlitun North Bar street, Youyi Youth Hostel, behind Poachers Inn), Chaoyang District. (6415 1954) www.treebeijing.com 隐蔽的树, 朝阳区三里屯北街以西100米Poachers后面三里屯医院旁

Souk Mediterranean and Middle East-

54 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

www.thebeijinger.com

RUSSIAN Heavy breads, borscht and enthusiastic use of sour cream, not to mention vodka. The Elephant Good Russian food, especially the appetizers, like stuffed mushroom caps. Daily noon-midnight. In a small alley off Yabaolu (50m north of Yatai Dasha), Chaoyang District. (8561 4073) 大笨象, 朝阳区朝外头条甲93号（雅宝路亚太大厦向北50米） Kiev The boozy vodka kebabs and the indulgent Kiev pudding – a rich cheesecake – come highly recommended. Daily 11am11pm. 13 Puhui Nanli, Yuyuantan Nanlu (west of the Millennium Monument), Haidian District. (6828 3482, 6827 7309) 基辅餐厅, 海淀区玉渊潭南路普惠南里13号 Little Birch Western Restaurant With its clean diner feel, it’s an ideal place for a quiet dinner with your comrades. Daily 11am-11pm. 24 Fuchengmenwai Dajie, 1/F, Jingbin Hotel, Xicheng District. (6858 2233 ext 1666) 小白 , 西城区阜成门外大街24号京滨饭店1层 White Nights Get your ruble’s worth with succulent peppercorn beef tenderloin accompanied by a working man’s serving of creamy mashed potato. Daily 10.30ammidnight. 13A Beizhong Jie (off Dongzhimennei Dajie), Dongcheng District. (8402 9595) 白夜西餐, 东城区东直门内大街北中街甲13号

SHANDONG Light food characterized by the use of shallots and garlic emphasizing fragrance and freshness. Big portions, and because of its long coastline, seafood is prominent. An Die An Niang This no-frills Shandong eatery makes great down-home zhou (rice porridge), stuffed pies (xian bing) and the biggest baozi in town. . 1) Daily 10am-3am. Chaoyang Park West Gate, Chaoyang District. (6591 0231); 2) Daily 9.30am-midnight. 8A Nongzhanguan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6586 2390) 俺爹俺娘, 1) 朝阳区朝阳公园西门; 2) 朝阳区吃饭堂，农展馆北路甲8号 Tong He Ju This bustling laozihao, whose original branch was established in Xisi in 1822, is a great place to enjoy the salty taste of traditional Shandong cuisine. Daily 10.30am-1.30pm, 5-8pm. Bldg B, 71 Yueyun Nanjie, Sanlihe, Xicheng District. (6852 2917) 同和局, 西城区三里河月云南街乙71号 Utopia Restaurant Recently refurbished eatery features Shandong and Cantonese cuisines. Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-9.30pm. 4/F Novotel Xinqiao, 2 Dongjiaominxiang, Dongcheng District. (6513 3366 ext 2402) 蓬莱阁中餐厅, 东城区东交民巷2号北京新侨诺富特饭店4层

SHANGHAI Dishes that are slightly sweet and delicate. Absolute Cate Simple, efficient, and deliciously cheap Shanghainese dumplings, buns and noodles. Daily 10am-10pm. B118b, B1/F, China Central Place, 81 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (5969 5277) 雅点舫, 朝阳区建国路81号华贸中心地下 1层B118b Chenghuangmiao Xiaochi Cheap, quick purveyors of pan-fried dumplings, sweet glutinous rice cakes, wontons and other “small eats” from Shanghai. Over 20 locations, all open 24 hours. Daily 24 hours. 51 Beisanhuan Xilu, Haidian District. (6255 9446) 城隍庙小吃, 海淀区北三环西路51号 Hujiang Xiangmanlou Very good eels stewed in oil sauce and xiaolongbao dumplings. 11am-2pm, 5-9pm. 34A Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District. (6403 1368) 沪江香满楼, 东城区东四十条甲34号 Jade Garden Cantonese and Shanghainese cuisine in a sophisticated setting. Voted “Outstanding Shanghai” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 10.30am-10.30pm. 6 Jiqingli, Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6552 8688) 苏浙汇, 朝阳区朝外大街吉庆里6号楼 Lu Lu Restaurant chain serving traditional Shanghai fare in a neo-classical

setting. Voted “Outstanding Shanghai” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 10.30am-10pm. 5/F, New Zhongguan Building, 19 Zhongguancun Dajie, Haidian District. (8248 6868); 2) Daily 11am4pm, 5pm-10pm. 9 Fuxing Lu, Haidian District. (6858 3661); 3) Daily 11am2.30pm, 5-10pm. 1A Ciyunsi, Chaoyang District. (6508 0101, 6508 0505) www. lulurest.cn 北京鹭鹭酒家东方店, 1) 海淀区中关村大街19号新中关大厦5层; 2) 海淀区复兴路9号; 3) 朝阳区慈云寺甲1号 Mei Mansion Converted courtyard done up to look like a sophisticated circa-1930s Shanghai salon. Daily 11.30am-2pm, 510.30pm. 24 Daxiangfeng Hutong (South bank of Houhai), Xicheng District. (6612 6847) 梅府家宴, 西城区后海南沿大翔凤胡同24号

SHANXI & SHA’ANXI Stewed dishes from provinces well known for their flavorful vinegar and noodles. Jin Yang Restaurant The first Shanxi restaurant to open up in Beijing after the revolution, the noodles are still impressive but most people come for the signature duck. Daily 10.30am-2pm, 5-9pm. 241 Zhushikou Xidajie, Xuanwu District. (6303 1669) 晋阳饭店, 宣武区珠市口西大街241号 Made in Heaven Interesting open-style kitchen. Sit and watch the chefs concoct noodles from China, Japan and beyond. Daily 11am-10pm. 1/F, Holiday Inn Temple of Heaven, 1 Ding’an Dongli, Fengtai District. (6762 6688) 面, 丰台区定安东里1号中成天坛假日酒店一层 Noodle Loft Homestyle Shanxi dishes and noodles in a posh environment. Daily 11am-10pm. 1) 18 Baiziwan Lu (south of Soho New Town), Chaoyang District. (6774 9950/ 5372); 2) 3 Heping Xijie, Chaoyang District. (5130 9655) 面酷, 1) 朝阳区百子湾路18号（Soho现代城往南); 2) 朝阳区和平西街3号 Xiaolumian Located in a stone farmhouse in the shadow of Mutianyu Great Wall. Choose your handmade noodles and then select the accompanying soups, sauces, and vegetables. Daily 10am-6pm or by appointment. 130 Yingbeigou Cun, Huairou District. (6162 6506) www.xiaolumian.com 小庐面, 怀柔区营北沟村130号 Xian Bai Wei Madam Wang whips up the best roujiamo in town at this friendly Shaanxi snack joint. Daily 11am-10pm. 76 Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6402 7070) 鲜百味, 东城区雍和宫大街76号

SICHUAN Distinguished by its tongue-numbingly spicy flavors. Emphasizes the use of chili, pepper and prickly ash. Ba Guo Bu Yi Chengdu import serves authentic Sichuan cuisine. 1) Daily 11am2pm, 5-9.30pm. 89-3 Di’anmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6400 8888); 2) Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5-9.30pm. 2/F, Nanhang Hotel, 10 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (6567 2188); 3) Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5-9.30pm. Xinzhi Dasha, 28 Fucheng Lu, Haidian District. (8819 0088); 4) Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5-9.30pm. 68 Xizhimen Nanxiaojie, Xicheng District. (6615 2230) 巴国布衣, 1) 东城区地安门东大街 89-3号; 2) 朝阳区东三环中路10号南航酒店 2层; 3) 海淀区阜成路28号新知大厦; 4) 西城区西直门南小街68号 Chuan Ban Its location in the first floor of Sichuan province’s Beijing rep office fuels its reputation as the most authentic Sichuan cuisine in town. Expect a wait during peak dinner hours. Voted “Outstanding Sichuan” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat-Sun 7am-10pm. 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6512 2277 ext 6101) 川办餐厅, 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 Drum and Gong Fusion Restaurant This popular restaurant with a terrace overlooking Nanluogu Xiang serves Sichuan favorites and Asian fusion cuisine. Daily 10am-midnight. 102 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (8402 4729) 锣鼓洞天, 东城区南锣鼓巷102号

Hong Jing Yu The original spicy fish (shuizhuyu) shop in Beijing. Clean and nicely lit. Daily 11am-10.30pm. Bldg 14, Guangximen Beili, Chaoyang District. (6420 4776) 红京鱼, 朝阳区光熙门北里14楼 Kuxia Yizu Sample the Sichuan shuizhu shrimp, Leshan spicy shrimp or the oddly named “Sex and the City” (spicy crawfish). Daily 11am-2pm, 5-11pm. Dongsi Sitiao (western end), Dongsi Beidajie, Dongcheng District. (6400 8499) 酷虾逸族, 东城区东四北大街东四四条 Lin’s Kitchen Owned by the same people behind the Noodle Loft, Lin’s serves up surprising Sichuan fusion cuisine, in stylishly modern surroundings. Daily 11am10pm. 20 Xidawang Lu (next to Noodle Loft), Chaoyang District. (8777 5855) 林家小馆餐厅, 朝阳区西大望路20号

Very Sichuan Restaurant Traditional lajiao-based delicacies served up in a suitably un-Sichuanese, post-modern setting. Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9.30pm. B1/F, Bldg I, e-Tower, 11 Zhongguancun Dajie, Haidian District. (5162 7878) 川流不息, 海淀区中关村大街11号数码大厦I座B1层 Xinchuan Mianguan The chewy cold noodles here are doused in a sweet, slightly spicy, very peanut-y sauce that is simply addictive. Daily 6am-10pm. 14 Xinjiekou Nandajie, Xicheng District. (6618 2452) 新川面馆, 西城区新街口南大街14号 Yuxiang Renjia Consistently good Sichuanese food in a pleasantly rusticthemed environment. Voted “Outstanding Sichuan” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Mon-Fri 11am-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-2.30pm, 5-9.30pm. 3/F, Bldg A, TYG Center, 2C Dongsanhuan Beilu (north of Sanyuan Dongqiao), Chaoyang District. (8441 7068); 2) Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm. 5/ F, Lianhe Dasha (Union Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6588 3841); 3) Daily 10.30am-10.30pm. 1011, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5869 0653); 4) Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, 5-9pm; SatSun 10am-9pm. Hepingli Nankou, across from the Guojia Linye Ju, Chaoyang District. (8422 0807); 5) Daily 10.30am-9pm. 6/F, Parkson Shopping Center, Fuxingmen, Xicheng District. (6602 3706) 渝乡人家, 1) 朝阳区东三环北路丙2号天元港中心A座3层（三元东桥北侧）; 2) 朝阳区朝阳门外大街 20号联合大厦五层; 3) 朝阳区东三环中路 39号建外Soho4号楼1011; 4) 朝阳区和平里南口国家林业局对面; 5) 西城区复兴门百盛购物中心6层

SOUTHEAST ASIAN Chili crabs, black pepper crabs and drunken prawns. A well-rounded representation of Southeast Asian delectables.

Longshun Yuan Mala Xiangguo Long Shun Yuan’s knack for impossibly potent spice has won it a devoted following. Calling ahead is recommended. Daily 9ammidnight. 1) 1 Huayuan Heyin Zhonglu, Wangjing(Near Guangshun Beidajie), Chaoyang District. (6473 3452); 2) 1/F, Tianxia Binguan, 8A Zhongguancun Nandajie, Haidian District. (6213 0489); 3) Eastern side of Anhuili, Yayuncun, Chaoyang District. (6481 0510) 龙顺园麻辣香锅, 1) 朝阳区望京花园河荫中路东1号(近广顺北大街); 2) 海淀区中关村南大街甲8号天厦宾馆1层; 3) 朝阳区亚运村安慧里东（北辰购物中心东）

Asia Bistro A place to go for Asian fusion, this hotel-restaurant specializes in cuisine from Thailand and Vietnam. Daily 6am-midnight.. Lobby, JW Marriott Hotel, 83 Jianguo Lu, China Central Place, Chaoyang District. (5908 8511) 朝阳区建国路83号JW万豪酒店

Lord of Salt Innovative Sichuan cuisine in a sassy historical environment. Daily 10am-2pm, 5-9.30pm. Nanxincang, 22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District. (6409 6185) 天下盐食色空间, 东城区东四十条22号南新仓文化休闲街

Cafe Sambal Authentic up-market Malay food in a lovely courtyard. Daily noonmidnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng District. (6400 4875) 西城区豆腐池胡同43号(旧鼓楼大街往东走)

Mala Youhuo (Spice Spirit) Imaginatively decorated chain of restaurants catering to a young, affluent crowd. Stick to the (extremely good) Sichuan staple dishes. Reservations recommended. 1) Daily 11am-midnight. 3/F, Sky Plaza, Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District. (8460 8558); 2) Daily 11am-10pm. 7/F, Grand Pacific Mall, 133 Xidan Beidajie, Xicheng District. (8265 6688); 3) Daily 11am10.30pm. West gate of the Taiyang Yuan Xiaoqu, Dazhong Si, Haidian District. (8211 9966) www.spicespirit.com 麻辣诱惑, 1) 东城区东直门外大街天恒大厦3层(东方银座东); 2) 西城区西单北大街133号君太百货7层; 3) 海淀区大钟寺太阳园小区西门

Hawka Inspired by Singapore’s hawker food stalls, Hawka’s open kitchen turns out popular Asian street foods in a five-star environment. Wed-Sun 5.30pm10pm. Beijing Marriott Hotel City Wall, 7 Jianguomen Nandajie, Dongcheng District. (5811 8888 ext 8266) 霍克亚洲餐厅, 东城区建国门南大街7号北京万豪酒店

South Beauty More a brand than a restaurant chain, South Beauty specializes in upscale locations and gorgeous, snooty staff. Voted “Outstanding Restaurant of the Year (Chinese)” and “Best Sichuan” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. A dozen locations round town. For the full list, check www.thebeijinger.com. 1) Daily 11am11pm. 3/F, Pacific Century Place, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6539 3502); 2) Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, West Wing, China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6505 0809); 3) Daily 6am-10.30pm. 1/F, Shuncheng Hotel, 16 Financial Street, Xicheng District. (6622 8989) 俏江南, 1) 朝阳区工体北路太平洋百货3层; 2) 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸西楼 2层; 3) 西城区金融大街甲16号顺成饭店(平安大厦东侧对面顺成酒店南门);

Malacca Legend This elaborate Malaysian restaurant boasts serene water views and zesty Southeast Asian cuisine. Daily 11am-10pm. 1) 1/F Building B, Ocean International Center, 58 East 4th Ring Road, Chaoyang District. (5908 0075); 2) On the banks of Luoma lake, Houshayu, Shunyi District. (8049 8902) 马六甲传奇, 1) 朝阳区朝阳区东四环路58号远洋国际中心B座1层; 2) 顺义区后沙峪镇罗马湖畔

ings, with live jazz on Wednesday and Sunday nights. Voted “Best Thai” in our 2009 Reader Restaurant Awards. Daily 11am-11.30pm. Rm 201, Bldg 3, China View, corner of Gongti Dong and Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6501 9345, purplehaze@purplehaze.com.cn) www. purplehaze.com.cn 紫苏庭, 朝阳区工体东路丙2号中国红街3号楼201室 The Yard This sister restaurant of Nyonya Kitchen, its affordable menu satisfies even the most traditional of Malaysian palates. Mon-Thu 10am-2.30pm, 59.30pm, Fri-Sun 10am-9.30pm. 3 Kaifa Jie, Xibaixinzhuang, Houshayu, Shunyi District. (8049 9449) 庭院餐厅, 顺义区后沙峪西白辛庄开发街3号

SPANISH Olive-oil inspired seafood, paellas and beautiful jamon serrano. Agua The finest Spanish/Catalonian food in town to match its upscale setting inside the Ch’ien Men 23 complex. Daily noon2pm, 6.30-10.30pm. Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6559 6266) 东城区前门东大街23号 Ashandi The sangria and gazpacho are delicious, but the bistro-style setting feels worn-out. Daily 11.30am-2pm, 6-11pm. 168 Xinzhong Jie (opposite north gate of Workers’ Gymnasium), Chaoyang District. (6416 6231) 阿山蒂, 朝阳区新中街168号工人体育馆北门对面 Carmen The menu at this whitewashed Spanish restaurant takes in tapas plates, hearty salads, paella and even roasted whole suckling pig. 11am-2am. Nali Patio (opposite north entrance of Let’s Burger), 81 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District. (6417 8038) 朝阳区三里屯北街81号（哪里花园边） MARE Nice atmosphere. Go for tapas every day and paella on weekends. 11.30am11.30pm. 1/F, E-Tower, 12C Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6595 4178/2890) 古老海西餐厅, 朝阳区光华路丙12号数码 01大厦1层

Nyonya Kitchen Peranakan cuisine at its finest. Daily 11am-10pm. Across from Gaojiayuan Middle School, opposite the Lido Hotel, Chaoyang District. (6433 7377) 娘惹厨房, 朝阳区高家园中学丽都饭馆对面 Purple Haze Bistro Hip spot offers great Thai cuisine in classy surround-

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Steak Exchange Serves up a wide variety of steaks in a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.3010pm. InterContinental Hotel, 11 Financial Street, Xicheng District. (5852 5888 ext 5916) 西城区金融街11号洲际酒店

TAIWAN Light, sweet dishes that use ginger and basil prominently. Includes seafood, small dishes and snacks. Bellagio Moneyed hipsters satisfy their midnight munchies at this Taiwanese eatery. Don’t miss the stunning shaved ice desserts. Voted “Best Taiwanese” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 11am10pm. 6/F, Shin Kong Place, 87 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (6530 5658); 2) Daily 11am-5am. 6 Gongti Xilu, south of the Gongti 100 Bowling Alley, Chaoyang District. (6551 3533); 3) Daily 11am-4am. 35 Xiaoyun Lu, beside Kiss Disco, Chaoyang District. (8451 9988); 4) Daily 11am-2am. Bldg 4, Area 2 Anhui Beili, Yayuncun, Chaoyang District. (6489 4300) 鹿港小镇, 1) 朝阳区建国路87号新光天地6层; 2) 朝阳区工体西路6号(工体100南边); 3) 朝阳区霄云路35号; 4) 朝阳区亚运村安慧北里2区4号楼(炎黄艺术馆斜对面) Danshui Serving up popular Taiwanese dishes such as tian-bu-la and o-a-chian as well as traditional street foods. Great for a family meal. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-9.30pm. 6A Shunhuang Lu, Sunhe Xiang, Chaoyang District. (8459 1688) 淡水复式餐厅, 朝阳区孙河乡，顺黄路甲6号 Golden Spoons Taiwanese Food If you like Bellagio, then you’ll like this place too. Crystal chandeliers and velvet plush chairs, great-tasting dishes and an extensive desert menu, all at a reasonable price. Daily 11am-11pm. 5/F, South Place, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6587 1472) 金汤匙私房菜, 朝阳区光华路 9号世贸天阶南街5层 Home Sweet Home Excellent traditional Taiwan dishes such as o-a-chian, three cup chicken and Taiwanese sausage. Voted “Outstanding Taiwanese” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11am-2pm, 5-10pm. 235 Chaoyangmennei Xiaojie, Chaoyang District. (6522 9889) 小城故事, 朝阳区朝阳门内小街235号

Asian Star Southeast Asian restaurant serves a mishmash of Indian, Thai, Singaporean and Malaysian cuisines. Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5-10.30pm. 26 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6582 5306) 亚洲之星新马印, 朝阳区东三环北路26号

Kafe Peranakan This place captures Malaysia’s eclectic gastronomy with its roti re-inventions such as banana, sausage and mayonnaise wraps. Daily 10am-midnight. 17 Kuntai International Center, Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (5879 0370) 阿琊汉餐吧, 朝阳区朝外大厦昆泰国际公寓南侧17号

opulent cut of prime rib that serves ten people. Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5-10pm. Stall 109, Bldg 3, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District. (8587 1055) 菩蔓牛排, 朝阳区工体东路中国红街3号楼109室

Olas Tapas Café Offers a warm ambiance, inexpensive drinks and good food. The “tapas” are mini-meals, rather than little bar snacks in the Spanish style. Daily 10am-10pm. S9-10 The Village at Sanlitun, Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6417 5657) 朝阳区三里屯北路三里屯Village南区S9-10 Tapas Spanish Bar and Restaurant Enjoy Spanish snacks (tapas) with your cocktails at this hacienda-cum-restaurant. Daily 10.30am-midnight. 2/F, Nali Mall, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6417 8038/7946) 达帕世, 朝阳区三里屯路那里服装市场2层

STEAKHOUSES CRU Steakhouse The sleek, warm design of the JW Marriott’s steak restaurant is reflective of the rich, refined cuts served up by its open kitchen. Daily 11.30am2pm, 6-10pm. 2/F, JW Marriott Hotel, China Central Place, 83 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (5908 8530) 朝阳区建国路83号华贸中心JW万豪酒店2层 Grange This steakhouse serves mean and delicate cuts. 20 kinds of mustard, salt and pepper available. Daily 6am-11pm. 2/F The Westin Beijing Chaoyang, 1 Xinyuan Nan Road, Chaoyang District. (5922 8888) 朝阳区新源南路1 号 Pullman Steak The imperial steak is an

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Shin Yeh Authentic Taiwanese food with imported foodstuff from the island itself. Try the barbecued pigeon. Voted “Outstanding Taiwanese” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 11am-10pm. L401, 4/F, The Gate Mall, 19 Zhongguancun Dajie, Haidian District. (8248 6288); 2) Daily 11.30am-3pm, 5.30pm-midnight. 6 Gongti Xilu (ground floor of the Gongti 100 bowling alley), Chaoyang District. (6552 5066) 欣叶, 1) 海淀区中关村大街19号新中关购物中心4层L401; 2) 朝阳区工体西路6号 (工体100一层) Slim Taste Noodles & Bar Choose from heaps of noodles, as well as a respectable selection of dumplings, wontons, soups, congees and desserts. Daily 10am-11pm. S9-32, South Area, the Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6415 9699) 西龙纤味拉面馆, 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区S9-32

THAI Fresh ingredients often using fish sauce, lemongrass and coconut milk. Spicy. See Indian and Vietnamese listings for additional Thai choices. Banana Leaf Somewhere, amidst a river crawling with fake alligators, long tail boats and overflowing with exotic plastic fruits, lies the answer to your Thai food cravings. Voted “Outstanding Thai” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 11am-11pm. Inside Sanyuan Dongqiao (on the west side, opposite Jingxin Dasha), Chaoyang District. (6460 2340); 2) Daily 11am-11pm. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6506 8855); 3) Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Finance Center, Zhongguancun Shopping Center, 58 Beisihuan, Haidian District. (5986 3666) 蕉叶, 1) 朝

October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 55 that’smags

DINING

Feiteng Yuxiang Best shuizhuyu in town. Get a balcony seat, tuck in a bib, and get messy. 1) Mon-Fri 11am-2.30pm, 4.30pm3am; Sat-Sun 11am-3am. Chunxiu Lu, 1 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6415 3764); 2) Mon-Fri 11am-2.30pm, 4.3010.30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-10.30pm. Xinyuan Nanlu (opposite Kunlun Hotel), Chaoyang District. (8455 2333); 3) Mon-Fri 11am2.30pm, 4.30-10.30pm; Sat-Sun 11am10.30pm. 17 Zhichun Lu, Haidian District. (8231 1286); 4) Mon-Fri 11am-2.30pm, 4.30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10.30pm. B1/F, Chengming Dasha, 2 Xizhimen Nandajie (northeast corner of Xizhimen Qiao), Xicheng District. (5190 1778); 5) Mon-Fri 11am-2.30pm, 4.30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am10.30pm. 4/F North Bldg, The Place Shopping Center, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6589 5588) www.ftyx.com 沸腾鱼乡, 1) 朝阳区工体北路1号春秀路; 2) 朝阳区新源南路佳亿时尚广场旁; 3) 海淀区知春路17号; 4) 西城区西直门南大街2号成铭大厦二楼(西直门桥东南角); 5) 朝阳区光华路 9号世贸天阶中心北楼4层

For a comprehensive directory, see www.thebeijinger.com 阳区三元东桥内侧西边，京信大厦对面; 2) 朝阳区工体北路4号院内凯富酒店后; 3) 海淀区北四环路58号中关村广场金融中心商业2楼 Lan Na Thai Suave Thai eatery serving good quality, classic Thai dishes at expensive prices. Voted “Outstanding Decor” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily noon2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. 26 Dongcaoyuan, Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6551 6788) 兰娜, 朝阳区工体南路东草园26号

DINING

Lantung This three floor bar, lounge and restaurant is a breezy retreat for some spicy Thai cuisine. Daily 10.30am2am. Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6213) 兰棠, 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区 Lemongrass Thai and Indian Restaurant Their affordable lunch buffet with Thai and Indian dishes keeps the crowds coming. Daily 11am-11pm. 1) 17 Jianguomenwai Dajie, behind the Friendship Store, Chaoyang District. (6591 3100, 6586 3150); 2) 1/F, Jinzhiqiao Dasha, 1A Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6500 3855) 柠檬叶泰印餐厅, 1) 朝阳区建国门外大街17号友谊商店后; 2) 朝阳区建国门外大街甲1号金之桥大厦1层 Lemon Leaf Sleek Thai hot pot eatery with a choice of eight different broths. Daily 11am-11pm. 15 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6462 5505) 柠檬叶子, 朝阳区霄云路15号 Lotus Root Tasty Southeast Asian favorites with a coffee and bar menu. Elegant and intimate. Daily 10am-midnight. 29, 32 Yandai Xiejie, Xicheng District. (6407 7857, 8401 5544) 莲花, 西城区烟袋斜街 29，32号 Pink Loft Pink Loft offers a flamboyant setting for average Thai food. Daily 11am-midnight. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (2nd Floor of The Loft), Chaoyang District. (6506 8811) 粉酷, 朝阳区工体北路4号院内（藏酷二层）

tsampa, momos and yak steak. Daily 9am2am. 1/F, Great Hyatte Int’l Apartments, 38 Zaoying Beili, Chaoyang District. (6592 3159) www.ganglademo.com 冈拉梅朵, 朝阳区枣营北里38号海悦名门公寓1号

Luga’s Pho Pho Pho and other Vietnamese dishes from the ever-cheerful Luga. Daily 24hrs. Above Luga’s (opposite Tongli Studio), Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District. (6413 2786) 朝阳区三里屯后街同里对面

Makye Ame Beijing’s premier Tibetan restaurant. The best dishes are curried potatoes, roasted lamb, grilled mushrooms and beef with pickled carrots. T1) Daily 11am-midnight. 2/F, Jinhuyuan Gongyu, Baijia Zhuang Dongli 23, Chaoyang District. (6508 8986); 2) Daily 11.30am-2am. 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District. (6506 9616) 玛吉阿米, 1) 朝阳区白家庄东里23号锦湖园公寓会所 2层; 2) 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街甲11号

Muse Parisian Vietnamese Brasserie A modish Indochine eatery with bowls of pho, spring rolls, soups and coffees of both Vietnamese and French persuasion. Voted “Best Vietnamese” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) 10pm-4am. 1/F. Tongli Studios (next to Kokomo entrance), 43 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6415 6388); 2) Daily 11am-11pm. 1 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6586 3188) 妙, 1) 朝阳区三里屯北路43号同里 1层; 2) 朝阳区朝阳公园西路一号

VEGETARIAN

Nuage Worth visiting for its chic, French colonial atmosphere and stunning lakeside location. Voted “Outstanding Vietnamese” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11am-11pm. 22 Qianhai Dongyan, Xicheng District. (6401 9581) 庆云楼, 西城区前海东沿22号

No animals were harmed in creating the dishes served in these restaurants, though the vegetables may have suffered terribly. Lotus in Moonlight You can tell it’s the real deal by the number of monks who dine here. Hard to find, but worth the search. Voted “Outstanding Vegetarian” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Mon-Fri 11am-2pm and 5-9.30pm, Sat-Sun 11am-9.30pm. 12 Liufang Nanli, Chaoyang District. (6465 3299); 2) MonFri 11am-2pm and 5-9pm, Sat-Sun 11am-9pm. 3/F, Disanji Creative Space, 66 Beisihuan Xilu, Haidian District. (6268 0848/1318) 荷塘月色素食, 1) 朝阳区柳芳南里12号楼; 2) 海淀区北四环西路66号第三极3层 Pure Lotus Vegetarian Run by monks, their creative dishes will leave you with a full stomach, a clear conscience and a considerably lighter wallet. Voted “Best Vegetarian” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11am-11pm. 1) Tongguang Bldg, 12 Nongzhanguan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6592 3627, 8703 6669); 2) 3/F, Holiday Inn Lido, Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (8703 6668, 6437 6288) 净心莲, 1) 朝阳区农展馆南路12号(通广大厦内); 2) 朝阳区丽都假日饭店三层,首都机场将台路 Still Thoughts Vegetarian Restaurant Vegetarian oasis that forgoes the hype and high prices for thoughtfully prepared mock meats and other vegetarian dishes. Daily 11am-10pm. 1) 18A Dafosi Dongjie, Yuqun Hutong (turn right onto Yuqun from Dafosi, which continues from Meishuguan Dongjie), Dongcheng District. (6400 8941); 2) 30A Gaoliangqiao Lu (inside the Meiyuan Hotel), Haidian District. (6225 5792) 静思素食坊, 1) 东城区大佛寺东街甲18号育群胡同(美术馆东街往北); 2) 海淀区高梁桥路甲30号(梅苑饭店大院内)

Purple Haze Books, coffee and Wi-Fi create the perfect atmosphere for a lazy afternoon. Voted “Best Thai” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 11am-11.30pm. Opposite the north gate of the Workers’ Stadium (in the small alley behind the ICBC Bank), Chaoyang District. (6413 0899, 8774 6387, purplehaze@purplehaze.com.cn); 2) Daily 10.30am-midnight. 201, Bldg 3, China View, C2 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6501 9345, purplehaze@purplehaze. com.cn) www.purplehaze.com.cn 紫苏庭, 1) 朝阳区工体北门对面胡同工商银行后; 2) 朝阳区工体东路丙2号中国红街3号楼201 Serve the People Popular restaurant with a large laowai fan base and pleasant terrace. Honorable mention for “Best Thai” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 11am-10.30pm. 1 Sanlitun Xiwujie (next to Athena), Chaoyang District. (8454 4580); 2) Daily 11am-11pm. Feijiacun Yuan, 8 Laiguangying Donglu (near the Cuigezhuang polie station), Chaoyang District. (8470 4792) 为人民服务, 1) 朝阳区三里屯西五街1号; 2) 朝阳区来广营东路 8号费家村院(近崔各庄派出所)

TIBETAN Features mutton and yak meat in a variety of cooking styles as well as the barley-based tsampa. Ganglamedo Traditional Tibetan food, with ingredients flown in from the highlands. Try the “eight prosperity symbols,”

56 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

Vegan Hut Simple vegan eatery serving fast and delicious set meals with no MSG. Stall 0912, 2/F, Bldg 9, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5869 9856, 139 1172 9610) 维根小屋, 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外Soho9号楼 2层0912 Veg-on Modest black and white décor, yummy vegetarian dishes and sweet Taiwanese desserts will have you back for more. Voted “Outstanding Vegetarian” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11am10pm. Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6301/6) 家乡素食, 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区 Xiangyang Xiaozhu Classic Chinese dishes rendered guilt-free draw the staff vegan back to this restaurant again and again. Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm. Beisanhuan (20m west of Dazhong Si), Haidian District. (8211 2104) 香阳小筑, 海淀区北三环大钟寺西20米 Xu Xiang Zhai Vegetarian Restaurant Vegetarian gormandizers delight at the glorious all-you-can-eat buffet, including hot pot options. Daily 11.30am-9pm; lunch buffet 11.30am-2pm, dinner buffet 5.30-9pm. 26 Guozijian Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6404 6568) 叙香斋, 东城区国子监大街甲26-1号

VIETNAMESE Light, relatively uncomplicated cooking with fresh flavors; not as spicy as Thai food. Favorites include beef noodle soup and imperial rolls. See also: Thai.

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Va Va Voom Classic Vietnamese fare such as fresh summer rolls, grilled duck salad and pho noodles. Daily 11am-11pm. S432, 3/F, Bldg 4, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6416 3732, 6417 2210) 越时代, 朝阳区三里屯北路19号三里屯Village南区4号楼3层S4-32

XINJIANG & MUSLIM Plenty of lamb dishes including the ubiqitous lamb skewers (yangrou chuan’r), best eaten with various Arabic-style flat breads (naan). Afunti Busloads of tourists pack this highend Xinjiang style restaurant every night. Voted “Outstanding Xinjiang” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 10.30am11pm. 166 Chaoyangmennei Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6527 2288, 6525 1071) 阿凡提, 东城区朝内大街166号 Alamuhan With nine branches across China, this chain offers the whole Xinjiang experience: dancing shows, delicious food and, of course, chuan’r. Daily 9.30am10pm. 2/F, 19 Haidian Lu (opposite the south gate of Peking University), Haidian District. (6563 3969) 阿拉木汗餐厅, 海淀区海淀路19号2层（北大南门对面） Crescent Moon Muslim Restaurant This clean, atmospheric neighborhood dive is possibly one of the best in town. Voted “Outstanding Xinjiang” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 10.30am-11pm. 16 Dongsi Liutiao (alley number six, 100m west of Chaonei Beixiaojie), Dongcheng District. (6400 5281) 弯弯的月亮, 东城区东四六条16号 Xinjiang Islam Restaurant Hearty Xinjiang cuisine from the people who know it best in Beijing: the staff of Xinjiang province’s Beijing representative office. Daily 11am10pm. Xinjiang Provincial Government Office, 7 Sanlihe Lu, Xicheng District. (6830 1820) 新疆伊斯兰饭庄, 西城区三里河路7号 Xinjiang Red Rose The rowdy Red Rose packs ‘em in with nightly music and belly dancing performances. Voted “Best Xinjiang” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 11am-11pm. Inside Xingfu Yicun 7 Xiang, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang District. (6415 5741) 新疆红玫瑰餐厅, 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷内 Yong Sheng Zhai Opened 30 years ago, this veritable hole-in-the-wall does what old-school eateries do – serve a few specialty dishes, excellently done. Daily 9am-9pm. 40 Qihelou Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6522 4647) 永盛斋, 东城区骑河楼大街40号

(8404 1430) 大理, 东城区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 Fenghuang Zhu Reasonably priced Yunnan fare and a great assortment of exotic liquors. Don’t miss the beautiful mint salad appetizer. Daily 11am-11pm. 128 Jiugulou Dajie, Xicheng District. (6402 0227) 凤凰竹, 西城区旧鼓楼大街128号 Golden Peacock Dai Ethnic Flavour Try the pineapple rice and the spicy lettuce salad, but get there early if you don’t want to wait for a table. Daily 11am-9.15pm. 16 Minzu Daxue Beilu, Weigongcun, Haidian District. (6893 2030) 金孔雀傣家风味餐厅, 海淀区魏公村民族大学北路16号楼 Jia 21 Hao Spacious and trendy restaurant for Yunnan minority cuisine, drinks and relaxation. Daily 11am-10.30pm. 21 Beitucheng Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6489 5066) 甲21号, 朝阳区北土城东路甲21号 Middle 8th Restaurant Try the Yunnanstyle spare ribs and the dragon beans. Voted “Best Yunnan” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 11am-11.30pm. Zhongba Lou, Sanlitun Zhongjie, Chaoyang District. (6413 0629); 2) Daily 11am-10.30pm. R17, Zhongguancun Pedestrian Mall, 15 Zhongguancun Dajie, Haidian District. (5172 1728) 中八楼, 1) 朝阳区三里屯中街中八楼; 2) 海淀区中关村大街15号中关村广场步行街R17 No Name Restaurant Burrowed within Houhai’s hutongs, this stylish Yunnan eatery attracts trendsetters eager to escape Yinding Qiao’s neon, noise and tourists. Voted “Outstanding Yunnan” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 10.30am-2am. 1 Dajinsi Hutong, Xicheng District. (8328 3061) 无名云南餐吧, 西城区大金丝胡同1号 Rainbow Experience Yunnan’s ethnic and culinary traditions, the home of puer tea and China’s freshest wild mushrooms. Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-10pm. F/4, Crowne Plaza Sun Palace, Yunnan Dasha, 12 Qisheng Zhonglu, Dongbei Sanhuan, Chaoyang District. (6452 1808) 彩云天, 朝阳区东北三环七圣中路12号云南大厦北京新云南皇冠假日酒店4层 Sandie Shui A delicious addition to Beijing’s hot pot scene, Sandie Shui is dedicated to the Lijiang pork spareribs variety. Mon 5-10pm, Tue-Fri 11am-2pm, 5-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. 25 Donggong Jie, Gulou Dongdajie (turn right at the first alley west of Jiaodaokou), Dongcheng District. (6404 1190) 三叠水丽江腊排骨火锅, 东城区鼓楼东大街东公街25号(交道口西边第一个胡同右转) South Silk Road Opened by a Beijingbased artist, this super-hip restaurant offers a minimalist interior, down-home Yunnan specialties and their own brand of rice wine. Voted “Outstanding Yunnan” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. 1) Daily 11am-10.30pm. 3/F, Bldg D, Soho New Town, 88 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (8580 4286); 2) Daily 10.30am10pm. 5/F, APM Mall, Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6526 8401); 3) Daily 10.30am-10.30pm. 2-3/F, North Bldg 4, Area 2, Anhuili, Chaoyang District. (6481 3261) 茶马古道, 1) 朝阳区建国路88号 Soho现代城D座3层会所; 2) 东城区王府井大街新东安广场5层; 3) 朝阳区安慧里2区 4号北楼3层

ZHEJIANG Includes cuisines from Hangzhou and Shaoxing. Light dishes using ingredients that are fresh and tender with a mellow fragrance.

This cuisine is a moderate balance of a light use of spices paired with fresh and tender ingredients.

Qu Na’r Homestyle cooking in an arty, post-modern environment. This is art star Ai Weiwei’s brainchild and we’re not disappointed. Try the plum wine infused with red bayberries. Daily 4pm-2am. 16 Dongsanhuan Beilu (in the alley behind the La Popo sign), Chaoyang District. (6508 1597) 去那儿, 朝阳区东三环北路16号 (辣婆婆牌子后面巷内)

Dali Courtyard Atmospheric decor, soothing music and easy-going hospitality. Set menu only. Voted “Outstanding Outdoor Dining,” and “Outstanding Yunnan” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 10am-9.30pm. 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District.

Xihu Chuan Cai Funky minimalist setting contrasts with traditional Hangzhou cuisine. Try the lao ya mian or the songsao yugeng – a thick fish soup. Daily 11am2pm, 4.30-10.30pm. 6 Di’anmen Xidajie (Ping’an Dadao), Xicheng District. (8400 2929) 西湖船菜, 西城区地安门西大街6号

YUNNAN

Can't find what you're looking for? Check out the Dining Directory Index on p41

NIGHTLIFE BARS & CLUBS P58 BARS & CLUBS P70 MUSIC www.thebeijinger.com October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 57 Kid Koala is out of his tree. See Clubhouse, p62; photo courtesy of the organizers thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;smags

ars& Take5 Clubs

BEIJING BEVERAGES

We’re sure you’ve been doing your bit to acclimatize to the city, adopting all manner of local customs, including the dreaded ganbei. There’s more to Beijing than baijiu, for there are much worse drinks to be had. Chivas and green tea The staple of the billionaire ballers of Gongti’s West Gate. It may be a crime in Scotland to mix whisky but maybe not if that whisky is owned by the French. Mix Inside the north gate of Workers' Stadium, Chaoyang District (6530 2889) 密克斯, 朝阳区工体北门内

BARS & CLUBS

Remy Martin and tonic water Dr. Johnson said: “Claret for boys, port for men but brandy for heroes.” What would he have made of those unheroically mixing it with tonic water? Angel 6 Gongti Xilu (between Gongti 100 Bowling and Bellagio), Chaoyang District (6552 8888) 唐会, 朝阳区工体西路6号工体100和鹿港小镇之间

Red wine and Sprite Wine is said to be the most civilized thing in the world. See how civilized the French are if you order it with ﬁzzy pop. Boutique Wine Cellar 7 Sanlitun Beili (behind 3.3 Shopping Center), Chaoyang District (6416 2375) 朝阳区三里屯北街7号3.3购物中心后

Oct 31: Yen Fetish Halloween The doctor will see you now. See listing, p62.

58 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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Red Moon 1/F, Grand Hyatt Hotel, Beijing Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an Jie, Dongcheng District (Daily 5pm-1am) 东方亮, 东城区东长安街1号东方君悦酒店大厅

Huadiao Iced Tea A local take on the alcoholic tea of Long Island, using rice wine as a base. Tastes remarkably nice and achieves the same result as its American cousin. Xiu Park Hyatt (entrance across from the hotel lobby), 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (5867 1108) 秀, 朝阳区朝阳区建国门外大街2号

Red, red wine ... and Sprite

PHOTO: JUDY ZHOU

itizens, you are sick and tired of the great unwashed spoiling your evenings out. At least that’s the conclusion to jump to if the latest trend is anything to go by. Exclusivity is all the rage, as a number of private clubs are covertly opening their doors up around town. The first to open was Fubar, and while it’s not private per se, it’s somewhat hidden and has that speakeasy feel. Since then, there have been more. The Apartment is exactly what it sounds like and its members can use it as they see fit, Club Glen has taken what was great about whisky bar Glen and made it members only, while d lounge is focusing on private parties. While privacy is not yet the dominant force in bar themes – give it time – the same can’t be said for bizarre concepts coming to the fore. Two words really signify this. Red Bull. That’s right, everyone’s favorite globally dominant energy drink has its very own bar in Beijing. It’s not so daft as you can’t buy alcohol but it is silly enough to add the likes of sake to the sugary syrup … and they have darts. Safety has gone out of the window when you allow hyperactive drunks high on Red Bull to throw around metal arrows. Having said all of this, it’s worth a visit once you’ve steeled yourself for its oddness. Whatever next? There’ll probably be midgets working the doors of clubs. This is all evidence that Beijing has changed. In some ways that’s great, well done. At the same time it’s still nice to see that there are old favorites who just won’t go away. Centro is six this month, Frank’s Place turns 20 and both Punk and Drei Kronen 1308 turn but a year old. It’s not just the bars themselves that are celebrating; Beijing Calling is helping We Live in Beijing to celebrate turning one. As nightlife markers though, all of this pales into insignificance when put next to the Yen Fetish Halloween. They’ve been convincing fully grown men with adult lives and responsibilities to put on make up and get rowdy for five years. That’s not your only opportunity to get debauched come All Souls Day. For a full list of where to vamp it up, check our website. Now where did I put that mascara? Jonathan White

Maotini Maotai in a martini. You can blame the good people of Guizhou for half of that concoction. As it turns out, nothing can mask the taste of Maotai.

All event listings are accurate at time of press and subject to change

For venue details, see directories, p65 Send events to listings@thebeijinger.com by

Brauhaus (6465 3388 ext 5732) Oct 10 Crazy About Wine Wine specials until the bar closes. Now that’s a happy hour. Free. 7pm. La Baie des Anges (6657 1605) Ole! Ole! Latin music and drinks specials all night long. Free. 9pm. Scarlett (6552 3600) Sonic Deviation As equally electronic as Oct 2. Free. 10pm. Q Bar (6595 9239) Oct 16 Crispy Cream All the hotness fresh out of the box, spun by DJ Bite-size Buddha. Free. 10pm. Q Bar (6595 9239) Riddim Mikey Dee and special guests bring bucket loads of bass. Free. 10pm. Obiwan (6617 3231) Oct 17 Beijing Calling We Live In Beijing and Beijing Calling unite for the former’s first birthday. There’s a promise of attractive people. Free. 10pm. Obiwan (6617 3231) Cocktails Cha Cha Unlimited cocktails, all night long. RMB 200. 9pm. Scarlett (6552 3600) DJ Zhi Qi The BaiCai DJ takes the helm for some loungey house. Free. 10pm. La Baie des Anges (6657 1605) Punk X Beijing Zoo First Birthday Lomang’s hip-hop party helps Punk turn one. Kid Fresh joins in the celebrations. Free. 10pm. Punk (5820 7100) Pure Bling Bling gets glamorous, decking itself out in white. Free flow drinks all night and the possibility of riding in a limo. Wear white. RMB 200. 9pm. Bling (5905 6999) Sonic Deviation As equally electronic as Oct 2. Free. 10pm. Q Bar (6595 9239) St. Patrick’s Day Countdown Live music, fun and games in the countdown to March. Specials on Guinness and Kilkenny. Free. Midnight-midnight. Danger Doyle’s (6591 3337)

BARS & CLUBS

Oct 2 Red Fashion Wear red and you stand a chance of winning prizes including champagne. RMB 50. 9pm. ChinaDoll (5136 5871) Sonic Deviation T-Paulitics brings the eclectically electronic. Free. 10pm. Q Bar (6595 9239) Oct 3 Git Some! Forty years of soul and the soulful with David Mitchell. Free. 10pm. Q Bar (6595 9239) I Don't Do Him, I Do "G" Free wine and bubbly for the ladies. Guest DJs spin the tunes. Free. 9pm. Scarlett (6552 3600) Retrodance DJs Cedric, Moonfire and Demone spin techno and minimal house. Free. 10pm. Obiwan (6617 3231) Oct 4 Meiwenti Dubwise Reggae BBQ Free BBQ and reggae music? Meiwenti. Free. 5pm. Obiwan (6617 3231) Oct 7 Whiskey Wednesday Independent whiskeys are on show to prove why bigger isn’t always better, at least not for distilleries. RMB 100. 8pm. The Bookworm (6586 9507) Oct 8-17 Oktoberfest and First Birthday Beer hall fun for Oktoberfest that could get a little rowdier with the birthday celebrations. See photo, p62. RMB 298 (includes free-flow beer). Time TBD. Drei Kronen 1308 (6503 5555) Oct 9 Git Some! Staying funky like it’s Oct 3. Free. 10pm. Q Bar (6595 9239) Hot Pot: Punk DJs Wordy and Lomang mix it up with DJ Passion. Free. 10pm. Punk (5820 7100) Oct 9-25 Oktoberfest 2009 A tent that’s full of beer plus entertainment from Munich Showgirls, Donutai Duo and Gaudi Max. Super. Free. 6pm. Paulaner

Oct 12

Oct 8-17: Oktoberfest Bavaria comes to Beijing. See listing, p59.

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What’s New

BARS & CLUBS

Club Glen Daily 5pm-2.30am. 1949 – The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (behind Pacific Century Place), Chaoyang District (133 1126 1949)

BARS & CLUBS

朝阳区工体北路4号院(盈科中心背面)

The whisky bar Glen has gained quite a following in the year that it’s been open. Club Glen is for fans who like Glen so much that they want that feeling all of the time. Membership in this exclusive modernist lounge will set you back RMB 28,000, much of which is redeemable behind the bar. Admittedly, that kind of outlay is not for everyone, but if you do have that kind of change ﬂoating around, then it will get you some peace and quiet to drink in. It’s a shame that most of us will have to pray for that lottery win to experience it. Pete Reilly

Ben Bar 奔吧 Daily 11am-midnight. 4/F, Reignwood Center, 8 Yong’an Dongli, Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (8528 8528 ext 3513)

朝阳区建国门外大街永安东里8号华彬中心4层

“D’you want ice cream?” asks tuxedoed barman Leo as we enter. We are prepared for anything. A fellow customer bellows a melodramatic ballad by the bar. The hospitable Leo invites us to sing karaoke, but we move straight to ordering Red Bull-inspired cocktails (RMB 65). Ben Bar is indeed Beijing’s ﬁrst Red Bull-themed bar, and drives the point home with red leather sofa-booths and ornamental oxen galore. The “Red Bull Special Drink” is a Red Bull mojito; it’s silly, but not particularly pleasant. The Martini Tokyo is a concoction of sake, gin, vodka, dry vermouth, cranberry juice and the all-important caffeine injection. It’s fun for an hour, but as with the energy drink itself, there’s a limit to how much Ben Bar you can take in one sitting. Iain Shaw

Maison Camus 卡墓世家酒廊

Decolete

Daily 4pm-midnight. 4/F, Reignwood Center, 8 Yong’an Dongli, Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District (8528 9518)

朝阳区建国门外大街永安东里8号华彬中心 4层

60 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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朝阳区工体北路4号院(盈科中心背面)

Ladies’ nights have long been the most heavily trafﬁcked by the city’s partygoers. Decolete goes one better by being a ladies’ bar. Well, that’s not strictly true, as gentlemen are allowed in, but only in the accompaniment of a member of the fairer sex. The bar is designed with women in mind, with the soft seating matching the dusky lighting. The menu is entirely comprised of delicate champagne and prosecco cocktails (RMB 80-180), which cover the traditional and the innovative. Owner Wilfred earned a lot of love when he opened Glen, and Decolete shows he’s not resting on his laurels just yet … ask the girls. Jonathan White

PHOTOS: JUDY ZHOU AND SONG YANG

Although open to the public, the openplan, high-ceilinged Maison Camus offers the trappings of membership – including discounts on wines, cognacs, tastings and bottle storage – to those who have parted with sufﬁciently large quantities of cash in the bar (from RMB 10,000). Maison Camus certainly appears to be designed for those with a special interest in cognac and ﬁne wine. Highlights include a 1964 Camus (RMB 720/glass) and bottles of Château Mouton Rothschild from the armistice years of 1918 (RMB 86,000) and 1945 (RMB 186,000). Cognac by the glass starts at RMB 55. Iain Shaw

Daily 5pm-2.30am. 1949 – The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (behind Pacific Century Place), Chaoyang District (133 1126 1949)

WHAT’S NEW: BARS & CLUBS

The Brick Daily 4pm-late. 1/F, Tianzhi Jiaozi building (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao), Chaoyang District (139 1113 6564)

朝阳区双井桥东北角天之骄子底商2-11

Daily 10am-2am. 70 Gulou Dongdajie (east of Nanluogu Xiang), Dongcheng District (6709 1383, 138 1118 3659)

东城区鼓楼东大街70号

Don’t be fooled by the name – you can drink here too, and in some style. Formerly known as Lugar, this café-cum-watering hole is a Jekyll-and-Hyde sort of venue; once the laptop set have logged off for the evening, the signature cocktails come out to play. For a warming antidote to the cool autumn, try a Beijing Mule: a blend of chilliinfused vodka, mint and ginger ale, spiced up with raw ginger (RMB 35). There’s even a selection of warm cocktails to wrap your palms around when the weather closes in, like a Bourbon Toddy or Mojito Mint Tea. A roof terrace, plenty of single malts and a broad wine selection mark this place out as one of Gulou’s more civilized drinking options. Tom O’Malley

PHOTOS: JUDY ZHOU, SONG YANG AND COURTESY OF CHAMPAGNE BAR

G Bar Daily 9am-11pm. Ganluyuan Football Club, Ganluyuan Nanli, Chaoyang District (8575 7236)

朝阳区甘露圆南里二区球场

Champagne Bar Daily 6pm-midnight. 2/F, Fairmont Beijing, 8 Yong’an Dongli, Chaoyang District (8511 7777)

朝阳区建国门外大街永安东里8号北京华彬费尔蒙酒店2层

The world of cuisine has long benefited from molecular gastronomy. Now it’s the time for drinkers to reap those same rewards. Champagne Bar in the Fairmont has endeavored to do something a little different by using chemicals to alter textures and place flavors where they never once were. Do you want to try melon liqueur foam or jellied sangria? Now you can – and more besides. The bar’s title accurately suggests at the healthy amount of champagne and champagne-based cocktails on offer, plus you get to enjoy them in the palatial settings of a five-star hotel. This is a quiet spot for the champagne set before they get too bubbly. Jonathan White

Combining a football pitch and beer is not a new idea, but that doesn’t mean it’s not a great idea. Many have tried the combination in Beijing but have been hamstrung by losing their homes. Ganluyan Football Club has three state-of-theart artiﬁcial football courts and the attached G Bar. The bar is anything but state-of-the-art, but that simplicity is its charm. Beer comes in bottles (Tsingtao RMB 10, Heineken RMB 15) and pints (Carlsberg RMB 10) at prices that allow you to treat your teammates. There are also soft drinks and a roof terrace to relax post-match. G Bar won’t be making a dent in the nightlife scene but that’s no excuse for not staying for a beer after your kickabout. Jonathan White

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October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 61 that’smags

BARS & CLUBS

e.a.t.

Shuangjing is slowly flourishing. Here resides The Brick, whose black mortar and bare-piped interior defy its devil-may-care philosophy. Ten-kuai bottles of Tsingtao, signature cocktails (RMB 30-50) and Skittle-infused vodka shots (RMB 20) signal fun and relaxation. This is never as evident as when heading up to the secondfloor deck – which accommodates a pool table and a wide-screen TV – and encountering the graffiti-laden walls. You’re encouraged to deface their clean, new walls – more evidence of the management’s carefree attitude. Though beware: It is mortifying to rediscover the garbled, halfbaked philosophies you espoused on the wall the night before. Paul Ryding

BARS & CLUBS

CLUBHOUSE

Happy-Go-Lucky Kid Koala at play by Lisa Liang

here’s a time to joke and there’s a time to be serious, but for Kid Koala, the difference is none. That’s what makes him an amazing DJ – the fun never stops. Before his October 29 show at Yugong Yishan, the master turntable manipulator, comic book novelist and illustrator, and (pending) solver of the world ﬁnancial crisis breaks it down …

the Beijinger : You’re Asian. But do you like Chinese food? KK: Have you ever met anyone who doesn’t like Chinese food? I just read that Billie Holiday was a fan of roast duck. tbj : What dish would you cook for an emperor? KK: Maybe something he hadn’t tried before. There’s a place in Canada that serves a hot dog with peanut butter, jam and Cap’n Crunch cereal.

“Dolly Parton canceled for some reason” tbj: You’re not just a DJ. You’re also an illustrator, and you make soundtracks for your books. What inspires you? KK: I like the work of directors like Wong Kar-wai and Jean-Pierre Jeunet. Their films are such great visual experiences. Watching their films makes me want to draw. Unfortunately, my books always look much sillier than their films.

Oct 18 Meiwenti Dubwise Reggae BBQ Not a problem, same as Oct 4. Free. 5pm. Obiwan (6617 3231) Oct 21 Yellow Ben Huang brings the electro, downbeat and the like from Shanghai. RMB 30. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Oct 23 Beats Royale The hip and the funky delivered to you by Marky Royale. Free. 10pm. Obiwan (6617 3231) Zin Tonic DJ Zin is just the tonic on the turntables. Free. 10pm. Q Bar (6595 9239) Oct 24 Crispy Cream Hot and fresh like Oct 16. Free. 10pm. Q Bar (6595 9239) Goa Productions Psytrance DJs Michael, Gotama and Pete restage a beach trance rave. Free. 9pm. Obiwan (6617 3231) Paris Affair Experience one night in Paris with French music and champagne specials. Free. 9pm. Scarlett (6552 3600) Oct 27-31 Centro Sixth Birthday Big City Beat returns to help Centro turn six. Free. 9pm. Centro (6561 8833) Oct 29 Kid Koala Turntablism done right by Kid Koala. See Clubhouse, p62. RMB 50, RMB 30 (advance). 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Oct 30 Crispy Cream Hot and fresh like Oct 16. Free. 10pm. Q Bar (6595 9239) the Beijinger Happy Hour Venue TBD. Free. 5pm. Riddim All of your bass needs met like Oct 16. Free. 10pm. Obiwan (6617 3231) Oct 31 Acupuncture presents Spooked Three rooms of techno, retro and house plus added spookiness. Acupuncture DJs on all night. RMB 150, RMB 100 (advance). 9pm. Lan Club (13810347555) Anti Halloween: Hallowine No stupid costumes, no makeup and no tricks. There are drinks

specials instead. Free. 9pm. La Baie des Anges (6657 1605) Cash Money Bash Fancy winning RMB 5,000 for best Halloween costume? Free. 9pm. Bling (5905 6999) Git Some! Funk Halloween. See Oct 3. Free. 10pm. Q Bar (6595 9239) Halloween A costume contest and a guaranteed gift for all. RMB 100 (includes drink). 9pm. ChinaDoll (5136 5871) Section 6 Homegrown hip-hop from the Beijing Live Hip-Hop Experience. RMB 30. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Spooky Scarlett Specials on spooky shooters and a costume contest for a stay in haunted Hotel G. Free. 9pm. Scarlett (6552 3600) Yen Fetish Halloween The celebrated Halloween edition of Yen’s parties returns. DJs include Mickey Zhang, Blackie, Usami and Dio. See photo, p58. RMB 150, RMB 80 (advance), RMB 200 (VIP, includes RMB 100 drinks). 9pm. 706 Factory, 798 art district. Info at 136 7130 4233. Every Mon Bookworm Pub Quiz Ask a silly question, get a trivial answer. Prizes to be won. Free. 10pm. The Bookworm (6586 9507) Quiz Night How many staircases does one pub need? Win beer. Free. 7.30pm. Danger Doyle’s (6591 3337) Every Tue Open Mic Night Feel free to make a fool of yourself on stage for a free drink. Free. 9pm. Tun (6585 5866) Quiz Night How many, when and where? Free. 8pm. Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q (6591 9161) Every Wed Cash Money Dance-Off Got the moves? Prove it and win RMB 800. Free. 9pm. Bling (5905 6999) Frank’s Quiz Where are you now? Win money. RMB 20. 8pm. Frank’s Place (6437 8399) Gossip Pour Femme Ladies drink for free while Simon Adams, Keza and Azat Sagirov play the music. Free. 9pm. Touch (5922 8888)

tbj : You once opened for Björk. How crazy is she in person? KK: The real opener was supposed to be Dolly Parton, but she canceled for some reason. I was told that Björk got a hold of my Nufonia Must Fall book and enjoyed it enough to invite me to do the show. I met her afterward … she’s cool.

Catch Kid Koala at YGYS on Oct 29. See listing, p59.

62 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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Oct 17: Punk First Birthday X Beijing Zoo DJ Lomang comes recommended by Ghostface. See listing, p63.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF THE ORGANIZERS

tbj : Name three instruments you’d use in a song that would solve the ﬁnancial crisis. KK: Wine glass, celery and a blade of grass. You can get a nice tone from playing a wine glass, and I once saw someone make a ﬂute out of a celery stalk. You can also make a whistle by putting a blade of grass between your thumbs. They’re cheap and could double as a meal after the show.

BARS & CLUBS

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PLA ...

PARTY LIKE A BAIJIU DRINKER Getting on first-name terms with the local liquor by Matt P. Jager

BARS & CLUBS

hey said it was “Chinese white wine.” My f irst gulp unveiled the cruelty of the mistranslation. My tongue tingled, my lips puckered and burnt, my tonsils convulsed, my neck kinked, my cheeks ﬁlled with spit, I felt a thickness where mouth becomes throat, and then I gargled some Coke to wash away the horror. As my sinuses began to drain, I felt her in my belly, a warm evil puddle. Erguotou, a sorghum spirit made from a two-pot distilling process, is the most apocalyptic of liquors. A drummer I know calls her “China Power.” A martial arts acolyte told me, “Drunken boxing is powerful kung fu. No one feels pain after a bottle of this stuff.” I refer to her as “devil juice,” but the most accurate euphemism is China Fury. China Fury makes you scream the things that common courtesy locks inside the subconscious creases of your brain. She makes you act on the impulses that legal disincentives and social inhibitions usually harness. She is the devil on your shoulder banishing the angel to the harsh light of sobriety. She is a cruel mistress. Sumptuous net work ing dinners and business negotiation feasts are lubricated with her sickly-sweet high-class southern cousin Maotai. Devil juice doesn’t belong there. Erguotou is the pin on the bluecollar lapel. Her place is on a fold-out table beside a steaming plate of chuan’r.

Baijiu is an umbrella term for all Chinese “white wine,” but erguotou is a liquor (characterized by its distilling process), not a brand. The most well-known and accessible variety is produced by Hong Xing (Red Star), available at every cheap restaurant and xiaomaibu in the city. For only three kuai, she will accompany you on your travels in a flask-sized bottle which research suggests shatters upon meeting asphalt at high velocities. Beware the screw-cap that does not pop off at first twist – it heralds fake booze and an eyeball-pounding hangover. The first 300-ton batch of Red Star hit the market in September 1949, paving the way for the formal proclamation of the People’s Republic of China. The 50-plus years of mass production that followed were a testament to her mind-melting fury and proletarian price tag. Now the Red Star distillery churns out upwards of a hundred thousand tons a year. Some have tried to tame erguotou with Sprite or green tea. Others have acquired the taste by mixing small doses into their beer. Laobaixing are disgusted by such sissy tactics. They will say knowingly, “Laowai can’t drink our China’s badass booze.” To earn the admiration of your local bike-repairman, the street-side chess masters, and the neighborhood convenience store boss, you must overpower erguotou with sheer strength of will. Drink respectfully and powerfully. Have no fear she’ll sense it.

As my sinuses began to drain, I felt her in my belly, a warm evil puddle

ILLUSTRATION: JOEY GUO

64 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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BARS & CLUBS 101 Lounge Close to the 798 district, this hotel bar specializes in top-class wines from all over the world and live music. Jazz standards are arranged by Kenny Cheng for the resident Latin four-piece. Noon-1am. Courtyard by Marriott – Beijing Northeast, 101 Jingshun Lu, Dashanzi, Chaoyang District. (5907 6666) 朝阳区京顺路101号 12SQM If my home were a tiny Australian bar, this place would feel just like home. Daily 5pm-midnight. Corner of Nanluogu Xiang and Fuxiang Hutong, Dongcheng District. (6402 1554) 东城区南锣鼓巷福祥1号 13 Club Hefty, dark and covered in graffiti. Featuring mostly rock, metal and punk bands, with shows almost every night. Daily 6pm-late. 161 Chengfu Lu (Lanqiying bus stop; doorway is recessed in a small alley next to Da Waguan Restaurant), Haidian District. (8261 9267) 13俱乐部, 海淀区成府路蓝旗营车站下车，马路南边即是 (瓦罐饭馆的西边) 1/5 Mixes contemporary with classic styles. Stripper poles in the loft. Mon-Thu 5pm1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-3am. 1949–The Hidden

atmosphere. Free. 10pm. Lan Club (5109 6012) Ladies Night Free cocktails for the girls upstairs while the chaps get discounts. Free. 8.30pm. Paddy O’Shea’s (6415 6389) Ladies Night Free cocktails for the girls until 11pm. DJ Phil plays the songs for the youngsters to sweat to. Free. 9pm. Tun (6585 5866) Every Fri & Sat ’80s Night Like the ’80s but with fewer mullets. DJs Side B, The Spinster, Vinyl Richie and Sweet FA spin. Free. 10pm. Alfa (6413 0086) Bartending Flair Show Alcohol and fireworks … watch out. Shows at 8.30pm and 9pm. Free. 8.30pm. All-Star Sports Bar & Grill (5905 6999) Thank Funk It’s Friday Funky music from DJ Florian to make you unwind after a less groovy week. Free. 8pm. Zeta Bar (5865 5000) Thank God It’s Friday Drinks specials from 6-10pm, then DJ Cool C starts the party. Buy five drinks coupons, get one free drink. Free. 6pm. Scarlett (6552 3600) Every Sat ALive DJ Maxwell is joined by a different live act every week for some French house fusion. Free. 10pm. Scarlett (6552 3600) Punk X Beijing Zoo Get animal with DJ Lomang’s hip-hop throwdown. Free. 10pm. Punk (5820 7100) Every Sun Delicious George gets behind the decks to mix jazz as well as he does drinks. Free. 10pm. Q Bar (6595 9239) Half-price Sunday Order a drink and pay just half. The same goes for food, if you’re that way inclined. Free. 6pm. Scarlett (6552 3600) Lush Open Mic Show off your talents for 15 minutes of fame and a free beer. Past acts have ranged from freestyle rap battles to tap dancing. RMB 10. 9pm. Lush (8286 3566) Whisky Tasting A tour of the highlands and islands with four selections and tasting notes. Reservations preferred. RMB 140. 6.30pm-2am. Glen (6591 1191)

BARS & CLUBS

Hit Me Babe Sexy girls and boys hand out tequila from water pistols. Free. 9pm. Tun (6585 5866) Ladies Night Surprise, surprise, it’s free drinks for the fairer sex and nothing for poor put-upon men. Outrageous. Free. 9pm. ChinaDoll (5136 5871) Lush Pub Quiz How many students does it take to change a light bulb? Come early for a seat. Winners take home a bottle of Jack. Free. 8pm. Lush (8286 3566) Paddy’s Quiz Which quiz host swears the most? Free prizes for every round and free drinks to be won. Free. 8.30pm. Paddy O’Shea’s (6415 6389) Pomegranate Quiz How do you spell pomegranate? Free. 8pm. The Pomegranate (8046 2558) Every Thu Abs Stella Thursdays Men take center stage as women get to bid on the best washboard stomachs, and buy the hunk a beer. Free. 9pm. Tun (6585 5866) Bingo Bonanza! Bingo games every half hour. Winner gets a round of shots. Free. 4pm. The Rickshaw (6500 4330) Exposed Ladies get free drinks and a girlsonly zone on the second floor. Men get neither. Free. 8pm. Zeta Bar (5865 5000) Gayographic No surprises what chaps you might meet down here. Drinks specials. Every last Thursday of the month is La La Lantung for the ladies. Free. 8pm. Lantung (5905 6213) Girls’ Night Out Free vodka drinks from 10pm-1am for the ladies. Free. 10pm. Xiu (8567 1108) Just Chill An open mic night for the musical and karaoke for the rest. Free. 9pm. Bling (5905 6999) Every Fri DJ Night The Rickshaw gets all frat house with a live DJ added to the boozy mix. Free. 9pm. The Rickshaw (6500 4330) Gayographic Lucky draws for great prizes – and half-price drinks while you’re waiting – all in a man-friendly

City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (behind Pacific Century Place), Chaoyang District. (6501 1949) 朝阳区工体北路4号院(盈科中心背面) 15 Qianhai Beiyan Super-swank bar with an aristocratic view of the lake. Daily 5.30pm-late. 15 Qianhai Beiyan, Xicheng District. (6617 5558) 前海北沿15号, 西城区前海北沿15号 180° Looming between neon pillars along Zhongguancun Beidajie is the monolithic 180°, the largest club in Haidian. 180°’s biggest asset is space, and even with several hundred clubrats dancing to the standard mix of hip hop/techno it doesn’t feel too crowded. Daily 8pm-5am. 18 Zhongguancun Beidajie, Haidian District. (8261 3366 ext 702) 海淀区中关村北大街 18号 2F Cozy spot serves ample measures and has hourly drinks specials on the chalkboard. Mon-Fri 6pm-2am, Sat-Sun 6pm-4am. Sanlitun Houjie (south of 3.3 Shopping Center), Chaoyang District. (6416 4549) 贰楼, 朝阳区三里屯北街3.3服装大厦南侧 2 Kolegas Intimate music venue. 21 Liangmaqiao Lu (inside the drive-in movie theater park) north of Chaoyang Park,

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Chaoyang District. (6436 8998, 2kolegas@163.com) www.2kolegas.com 两个好朋友, 朝阳区亮马桥路21号（燕莎桥往东 1500米路北汽车电影院内） 31Bar You’ll pay RMB 20 for a Tsingtao at this Houhai hang-out. The price buys nightly live music of the flamenco variety from 9pm. Daily 4pm-late. 16 Nanyan Lu, Houhai, Xicheng District. (6616 4210) 西城区后海南沿16号 3rd Cellar Intimate Japanese bar with a selection of beers, wines and sakes. Daily 6pm-1.30am. 3/F, 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu (to the right of Chaoyang Theater), Chaoyang District. (6507 1013) 朝阳区东三环北路36号朝阳剧场东边3 8gua A quiet place to gossip. Daily 2pm2am. 6C Houhai Ya’er Hutong, Xicheng District. (6401 8080) 8 卦, 西城区后海北沿鸦儿胡同后丙6号

BARS & CLUBS

Absent Nightclub Sleek Russian club. Nightly shows. Daily 6pm-late. B1, Huasheng Plaza, 12 Yabao Lu (next to the Brazilian Embassy), Chaoyang District. (5120 6538) 大笨象, 朝阳区雅宝路12号华声大厦B1 Acoustic House West Street, Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6437 9079) www.acoustic-house. com 生活家的院子, 朝阳区朝阳区酒仙桥路 4号798大山子艺术区西街 Alfa A mix of young expat professionals, students and local club-goers. Daily 4pm2am. 6 Xingfu Yicun (in the alley opposite the north gate of Workers’ Stadium), Chaoyang District. (6413 0086) 阿尔法, 朝阳区幸福一村6号工体北门对面的胡同里 All-Star Sports Bar & Grill See Dining Directory under “American.” Mon-Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 11am-2am. Bldg 5, 1/F, Solana Shopping Mall, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6999) www.all-starclub.com 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区 5-1 Amilal This quaint but nice Mongolian owned bar presents scotch, imported beers, and an impressive selection of Latin American wines. Entertainment: Mongolian and Kazakh bands. 2pm-late. 48 Shoubi Hutong (southeast of 66 Gulou Dongdajie), Dongcheng District. (8404 1416) 东城区鼓楼东大街66号东南侧寿比胡同48号院内 Andalucia Manhattan loft vibe with regular events from live music, art lectures, to indie movie screenings. Daily 10ammidnight. 26 Mao’er Hutong, Dongcheng District. (6405 0279) 行走的阳光, 东城区帽儿胡同26号 Angel Angel one-ups Babyface on several counts: more seating, more lights, more staff and more space. Larger private rooms have their own DJ decks; otherwise, lounge in the dim lights, sleek decor and giant scale. Just be cool. Daily 8.30pm2am. 6 Gongti Xilu (between Gongti 100 Bowling and Bellagio), Chaoyang District. (6552 8888) www.michengclub.com 唐会, 朝阳区工体西路6号工体100和鹿港小镇之间 Aperitivo Shrub-lined patio, continental atmosphere and Italian-themed drinks menu. Daily 10am-late. 43 Sanlitun Houjie (next to Tongli Studio), Chaoyang District. (6417 7793) 意式餐吧, 朝阳区三里屯后街 43号同里旁边 Aria See Dining Directory under “European.” Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10pm; bar 11am-midnight. 2/F, China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6505 2266 ext 38, 6505 3318) 阿郦雅, 朝阳区建国门外大街1号中国大饭店二层 Armaini Lasers, smoke-machines, a hydraulic dance floor, Euro-mix music, and a mostly Chinese crowd have taken over this cursed disco space that was once Fusion. The name, staff claims, is like the brand. Daily 8.30pm-late. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. 朝阳区工体北路甲8号 Babyface More provincial than its old Gongti siblings. Daily 8pm-2am. Babyface West, Triumph Plaza, A143 Xizhimenwai Dajie (west of Beijing Zoo), Xicheng District. (8801 6848) www.babyface.com.cn 西城区西直门外大街甲143号凯旋大厦 Ball House This difficult-to-find establishment bills itself as a pool hall, but only

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three pool tables and a haughty air keep things from getting rowdy. The high ceilings and artfully designed lofts, like the clientele, are attractive. Ball House is located in a residential area – so don’t expect to stay up late and holler. Daily 2.30pm-late. In a small alley directly east of Zhonglou, Dongcheng District. (6407 4051) 波楼, 东城区钟楼湾40号钟楼东边的小胡同里 Bar Blu One of the best terraces in town, with something going on every night. Daily 5pm-2am. 4/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District. (6417 4124, info@barblu.cn) 蓝吧, 朝阳区三里屯后街同里4层 Bar One Neon hop meets brandy-sipping old boys’ club meets Maggie’s. Daily 7.30pm-late. 100m east of the Hilton Hotel, Dongsanhuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (8455 2611) 朝阳区东三环路希尔顿饭店向东100米 Bar Promise Salaryman hang-out offers serious whiskey, a bartender with a serious collar, and tennis-ball sized ice-spheres in the drinks (seriously). Mon-Sat 5pm2am. 1537, 2/F, Bldg 15, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5900 0151) 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外 Soho15号楼2层1537 The Bar Located in the Crowne Plaza Sun Palace, this hotel bar styles itself as a fun pub for the after work crowd. 5pm1.30am. G/F, Crowne Plaza Sun Palace Beijing, 12 Qisheng Middle Zhongjie, Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang District. (6452 1806) 朝阳区朝阳区东北三环七圣中街12号北京新云南皇冠假日酒店大堂1层 Bed Minimalist decor is centered around beds (obviously), and cement. Daily 4pmlate. 17 Zhangwang Hutong, Xicheng District. (8400 1554) 床吧, 西城区旧鼓楼大街张旺胡同17号 Beer Mania Spacious it ain’t, but Beer Mania has got everything it needs to play the role of Belgian beer purveyor par excellence. Daily 2pm-late. 1/F, Taiyue Fang, Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6585 0786) 麦霓啤酒吧, 朝阳区南三里屯路泰乐坊1层 Beijing Okhotsk Beer The three sizeable copper vats behind the bar of this microbrewery help to create one of Beijing’s most unique drinking experiences. Daily 11.30am-late. 7 Shangye Jie, Phoenix City, 5 Shuguang Xili, Chaoyang District. (5866 8552) 北京欧可啤酒, 朝阳区曙光西里甲5号凤凰城凤凰新天商业街7号 Bla Bla Bar Offers co-eds budget booze and unbridled fun. Daily 2pm-2am. Inside the Beijing Language and Culture University, Haidian District. (6239 7033) 海淀区语言学院内 Black Sun Bar Bargain-basement drinks, a pool table, darts, foosball, the original caipirinha recipe and a patio. Daily 4pm-3am. West gate of Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang District. (6593 6909) 黑太阳, 朝阳区朝阳公园西门

com) www.myspace.com/theboatbeijing 朝阳区亮马河南路8号（三里屯北街西边） Boutique Wine Cellar Cozy wine bar. 10.30am-3am. 7 Sanlitun Beili (behind 3.3 Shopping Center), Chaoyang District. (6416 2375) 朝阳区三里屯北街7号3.3购物中心后 Bubble Cafe & Bar See Restaurant Directory under “Italian.” Daily 11am-midnight. 2/F, Bldg 8, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5869 2770) 泡点, 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外Soho8号楼2层 Buzz Chill out and relax in this intimate bar that features signature cocktails and an extensive collection of premium whiskeys, cognacs, wines and ports. Daily 7pm1am. 1/F, The Westin Beijing, 9B Financial Street, Xicheng District. (6606 8866 ext 7825) 西城区金融大街乙9号北京金融街威斯汀大酒店1层 Cafe del Mar A spot for the Lido crowd to relax. Drinks are fairly cheap. Daily 9am2am. Hairun International Apartment, 2A Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (5135 7028) 海润天缘, 朝阳区将台路甲2号海润国际公寓 Cafe Heaven and Earth Between Heaven and Earth lies a wide variety of herbal teas, coffee, beer and cocktails as well as Chinese and western food. Also sports a newly attached Japanese mini-restaurant, free Internet and fine views. Live music at night. Daily 4pm-4am. 2 Qianhai Beiyan, Xicheng District. (6657 1870) 天与地茶餐吧, 西城区前海北沿2号 Cappuccino Newly installed svelte poledancing beauties and a racy new format of the bar bring new life. 78 Sanlitun Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6586 5020) 音乐西餐酒吧, 朝阳区三里屯南路78号 Cargo Club Regularly hosts some of the best international DJ acts that make it to Beijing. Crowds are predominately local and flashy. Daily 8pm-late. 6 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6551 6898/78) 朝阳区工体西路6号 Casa Habana Cigars and rum. Daily 9am-midnight. 1/F, Jinglun Hotel, 3 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6595 0888) 哈瓦那之家, 朝阳区建国门外大街3号京伦饭店1层 Cashmere A small but slick cigar bar. Daily 2pm-12pm. 44 Guanghua Lu (behind Sequoia Cafe), Chaoyang District. (6503 5050) 凯士酒吧, 朝阳区光华路44号（尊伯英式后面） Cave Cafe Befitting the arty-industrial labyrinth that is the 798 arts district, Cave Cafe is a hip, inviting hangout. The decor is minimalist: exposed brick walls, unvarnished wood floors, and black and white tables and couches. Jazz is played at the perfect volume, while the proprietors’ funny little dog Yeahbee struts around like he’s the real owner of the joint. Daily 10am-11pm. Next to 798 Space, Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8456 5520) 洞房咖啡, 朝阳区酒仙桥4号798大山子艺术区时态空间旁边

Bling Hip-hop club with a Rolls Royce Phantom DJ booth. Exclusive selection of premium single malts, cognacs, and cigars. Wed-Sat 9pm-late. Solana 5-1, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6999) www.all-starclub.com 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区 5-1

CD Jazz Cafe Jazz gigs on Friday and Saturday. Daily 4pm-late. South of the Agricultural Exhibition Hall main gate, Dongsanhuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (6506 8288) CD爵士俱乐部, 朝阳区东三环路农展馆大门往南300米

Block 8 Lively dance floor and a serious cocktail selection. Daily 6pm-2am. Block 8, Apartment 8 Complex, Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6508 8585, info@block8.cn) www.block8.cn 朝阳区朝阳公园西路8号公馆

Centro Always busy. A surprisingly comfortable spot to down drinks and do your best Cary Grant impression. Daily 24hrs. 1/F, Shangri-La’s Kerry Centre Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6561 8833, ask for Centro) 炫酷, 朝阳区光华路 1号嘉里中心饭店1层

Blue Frog Cocktail-heavy drinks menu. And a patio. 1) Daily 10am-1am. L312, Europlaza, 99 Yuxiang Lu, Tianzhu Zhen, Shunyi District. (8046 6337); 2) Daily 10am2am. S4-30, 3/F, Bldg 4, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6417 4030) www.bluefrog.com.cn 蓝蛙, 1) 顺义区天竺镇欲翔路99号北京欧陆时尚购物中心(欧陆广场)L312室; 2) 朝阳区三里屯北路19号三里屯Village4号楼3层S4-30

Champagne Bar With its vibrant ambiance, this bar is the place to be on Wangfujing for Champagne, fine wines, top-end cigars and great music. Daily 5pm-2am. Crowne Plaza Beijing, 48 Wangfujing Avenue, Dongcheng District. (6513 3388 ext 5) 香槟吧, 东城区王府井大街48号国际艺苑皇冠假日酒店内

The Boat A double-decked club-on-water. Daily 11am-2am. 8 Liangmahe Nanlu (west of Sanlitun Beijie), Chaoyang District. (6460 5512, theboatbeijing@gmail.

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Charlie’s Maybe, once upon a time, there was a Charlie. What’s there now is a quiet lounge bar. 9am-2.30am. 1/F, Jianguo Hotel, 5 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6500-2233 ext 8038) 朝阳区建国门

外大街5号建国饭店1层 Chateau Blanc The specialties of this small Gulou bar include a spectacular view of the Bell Tower from their second-floor deck, a BYO-meat grill that can be used for free by customers, and reasonable prices (RMB 50 pitchers, RMB 15 draft beers). Daily 3pm-late. 52 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng District. (6404 5189) 大白房子, 东城区钟楼湾胡同52号 China Bar The best view in town. Definitely a place to impress. Daily 5pm-1am. 65/F, Park Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (8567 1234) 朝阳区朝阳区建国门外大街2号 ChinaDoll Decorated with a cornucopia of color, Chinese furniture and specially commissioned pieces by Chinese artists (which are also for sale), the club is 100 percent made in China yet in no way conventional. Dig extravagant VIP rooms, the lounge, or the dance area for lavish events and big-name DJs. Sun-Thu 6pm-late, Fri-Sat 9pm-late. 5/F, 3.3 Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District. (5136 5871/72, events@chinadollclub.cn) www. chinadollclub.cn 中国娃娃, 朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3服饰大厦5层 Chocolate Join Napoleon through his conquests in this Russian bar and squat on the gold-tiled squatters. Live music and drinks at RMB 38-48. Daily 11am-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (8561 3988) 朝阳区日坛北路19号 CJW Cigars, jazz, wine. 11am-2am. L-137, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6587 1222) www.cjwchina.com 雪茄爵士酒吧, 朝阳区世贸天阶 L-137 光华路9号 Cloud Nine Bar This upscale bar in the Shangri-La Hotel has it all – swanky interior, an incredible drink list, and regular live music. Daily 8pm-2am. Shangri-La Hotel Beijing, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian District. (6841 2211 ext 2723) 九霄云外, 海淀区紫竹院路29号，香格里拉饭店内 Club 95 A strobe-lit glimpse of Beijing’s nightlife past. Daily 9pm-late. 2/F Tai Yue Suites Palace, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6586 9595) 朝阳区三里屯南路16号泰悦豪庭2层 Club Juicy Spot Daily 5pm-late. 2-3/F, 2 Chaoyang Xilu (30m east of Chaoyang Park West Gate), Chaoyang District. (6593 0610) 朝阳区朝阳公园西路2号楼2-3层 (朝阳公园西门往东30米) Club LA Young hip cats, sipping on gin and juice, enjoying the tracks and hitting the dance floor. Come join in at the latest hip-hop hangout. Daily 10pm-late. 8 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6552 9998) 朝阳区工体西路8号 Club Taku With all-you-can-drink nights, this is a good place to stay up late, get toasty, and dance. Daily 8.30pm-late. 16 Zhixin Lu (just west of the intersection between Zhixin Lu and Zhixin Donglu), Haidian District. (no tel) 海淀区志新路16号（志新路和志新东路的路口往西） Coco Banana GT Banana-lite. Daily 9pmlate. 8 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (8599 9999) 朝阳区工体西路8号 Coffee TT Travel Travel Cafe has an extensive library stocked with travel books, most in Chinese, but English reading material is available, including a healthy collection of Lonely Planet guides. Those not planning to escape Beijing might want to drop by for the free Wi-Fi, a beer or a bite to eat, as the Travel Travel Cafe boasts a high quality menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Daily 8am-1am. S120, Blue Castle Apartments, south area,3 Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District. (8599 7488) 又见炊烟, 朝阳区西大望路3号蓝堡国际公寓南区底商S120 Cosmo This new addition to Beijing’s alternative bar scene boasts not only a healthily-sized dance-floor but also a charming bar amidst the distressed concrete and exposed brickwork. Don’t miss the lip-smacking house special, the Cosmo-BJ (RMB 40). Daily 8pm-late. Grand Rock Plaza, Gongti Beilu (opposite Asia Hotel), Chaoyang District. (5190 8918) www.bjcosmo.com 科丝某, 朝阳区工体北

路（新中街路口）巨石大厦

馆, 东城区钟楼湾胡同41号

Cosmo Bar Daily 10am-11.30pm. 1/F, Pullman West Wanda Hotel, 18 Shijingshan Lu, Shijingshan District. (8868 1188) 石景山区石景山路18号北京万达铂尔曼大饭店1层

Durty Nellie’s Beijing’s first Irish pub. Daily 10am-late. 1/B Liangmaqiao Flower Market, Chaoyang District. (6593 5050, durtynellies@gmail.com) 爱尔兰酒吧, 朝阳区亮马桥花卉市场B1层

Crown Wine Cellar Wine storage from the exclusive Hong Kong specialists. Become a member and keep your collection here to enjoy in the lounge bar or to mature in the cellar. Daily 9am-9pm. The Crown Worldwide Building, XingmaoYijie, Tongzhou Logistics Park, Majuqiao Town, Tongzhou District. (5801 8088) www. crownrelo.com 通州区马驹桥镇通州物流基地兴贸一街嘉柏物流大楼 Crystal Bar A place to indulge in fine champagne, matured cigars and aged ports. Daily 8am-1am. Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 1 Jinchengfang Jie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District. (6601 6666 ext 6231) 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽资卡尔顿酒店大堂

D-22 A venue for new and experimental music. Tue-Sun 7pm-2am. 242 Chengfu Lu (two doors west of 13 Club), Haidian District. (6265 3177, charles@d22beijing. com) www.d22beijing.com.cn 海淀区成府路242号 Danger Doyle’s Beers, sports and pizzas. Plus a great terrace. Daily 10am-1am. 3/F, Bldg 5, China View, 2 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6591 3337, VIP Hotline: 136 0139 1308) 朝阳区工体东路2号中国红街大楼5号楼三层 Davidoff Lounge Cigars, KTV and luxury. Daily 9pm-2am. China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (5908 8070) 朝阳区华贸中心建国路甲83 D Bar 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, 61 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4层 The Den Watch sports until dawn; stick around for brunch. Daily 24hrs. 4 Gongti Donglu (next to City Hotel’s main entrance), Chaoyang District. (6592 6290) 敦煌, 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边 Desert Oasis Set within the charm of the Nanluogu Xiang-area hutongs, this cozy three-floor bar aims to evoke the ambiance of exotic locales. Offering specialty beverages such as refreshingly tart raspberry juice (RMB 20/cup, 40/pitcher), Xinjiang iced yogurt (RMB 15), and Lhasa Beer (RMB 15), as well as a range of western food such as pizza and pasta, DOB also features a roof terrace and numerous comfortable nooks making it a laid-back venue for breezy bull sessions. Mon-Thu 4pm-2am, Fri-Sun noon-2am. 3 Shajing Hutong, Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (6403 7856) 山木蓝, 东城区南锣鼓巷沙井胡同3号 Destination Men frequent this disco, and women who don’t want to be hit on do too. Destination packs in a rowdy crowd and is bursting with testosterone on weekends. Daily 8pm-late. 7 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6552 8180) 目的地, 朝阳区工体西路7号 Downtown Cafe & Bar Those in the know say this is the place for some of the best food on bar street. Watch DVDs during the day; catch belly-dancing performances from 9pm on. Daily 10am-2am. 26 Sanlitun Beilu (North Bar Street), Chaoyang District. (6415 2100) 骊姿园, 朝阳区三里屯北路26号(北酒吧街） Drei Kronen 1308 Brauhaus Sun-Thu 11.30am-midnight; Fri-Sat 11.30am-late. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6503 5555) 皇冠自酿啤酒坊, 朝阳区工体东路中国红楼5号楼1层 Drum and Bell The rooftop patio is a great place to catch some sunshine. Daily 1pm-2am. 41 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng District. (8403 3600) 鼓钟咖啡

Enoteca Daily 10am-2am. The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6587 1578) 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶 Entero Cool like bebop and sunglasses and bongos. Daily7pm-3am. 1 Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District. (8451 0554) 朝阳区新源里1号 er Intimate cocktail bar. Japanese bartenders ensure quality pours, including over 100 types of whiskey. Daily 6pm-2am. 1/F, Longbao Dasha, 36 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang District. (6591 5926) 朝阳区麦子店街36号龙宝大厦1层 Face An upscale bar but you can find a pint of Tetley’s. Voted “Outstanding Decor” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 2pm-late. 26 Dongcaoyuan, Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6551 6738) www.facebars.com 妃思, 朝阳区工体南路东草园26号 Fez Bar Sip on Jackie Ho’s award-winning cocktails at this Moroccan-themed terrace bar at Ch’ien Men 23. Daily 6pm-1am. Ch’ien Men 23 (part of the Hex, Shiro Matsu, Agua complex), 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6559 6266) 东城区前门东大街23号 The First Lounge Has a sophisticated yet earthy feel. Daily 9am-midnight. Inside Park Plaza Beijing, 97 Jinbao Jie, Wangfujing, Dongcheng District. (8522 1999 ext 3607) 首酒廊, 东城区金宝街97号北京丽亭酒店内 Flames Flawlessly mixed drinks. Live performances add an air of relaxation. Daily 11am-1am. Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng District. (5812 8888) 东城区王府井东街8号北京王府井西尔顿 Frank’s Place Lido-area sports pub. Daily 8am-2am. Jiangtai Xilu, west of Rosedale Hotel, Lido area, Chaoyang District. (6437 8399) www.franksplacebeijing.com 朝阳区丽都将台西路 Fu Thoughtful, educated clientele – and art by the owner and his friends on the walls. Daily 11am-midnight. 71 Chaodou Hutong, Nanluogu Xiang, Xicheng District. (6403 3595) 西城区南锣鼓巷炒豆胡同71号 Fubar A speakeasy with a fine selection of drinks. Sun-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri & Sat 6pm-4am. Behind Stadium Dog, Gate 10, Workers’ Stadium, Chaoyang District. (6593 8227) 福吧, 朝阳区工体东路工人体育场东门内10号进口 G9 An open lounge fitted with plush red sofas and white drapes.Get wallet friendly and unique mixed drinks at RMB 50. If you are feeling brave, try the wasabi-infused devil mojito. Daily 6pm-2am. Bldg 8, Julong Garden, Xinzhong Jie (southwest side of Workers’ Gymnasium), Chaoyang District. (134 6677 9993) 朝阳区新中街（工人体育馆东南边）聚龙花园8号楼 Gallery Lounge Lobby bar. Noon-1am. 1/F, Holiday Inn Lido Beijing, 6 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (6437 6688) 画廊酒吧, 朝阳区将台路6号1层北京丽都假日酒店 Ginkgo Elegant yet comfortable bar. Second floor serves fine Mediterranean cuisine. Daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. 199 Andingmennei Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6402 7532) www.ginkgobeijing.com 东城区安定门内大街199号 Glen The finest collection of single malts in the city. Luxurious. Daily 6pm-2am. 203, Taiyue Suites, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6591 1191) 格兰高地, 朝阳区南三里屯16号泰悦豪庭2层203 Goose ‘n’ Duck Pub Beijing’s biggest sports bar. Daily 24hrs. S1, Green Lake Interna-

GT Banana Pulsing beats, dancers in cages and a whole lot more ... World-class DJs play when they come to town. Weekdays 8.30pm-4.30am, weekends 8.30pm-5am. Scitech Hotel, 22 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6528 3636) 巴那那, 朝阳区建国门外大街22号赛特饭店1层 Hai Bar Great terrace and view of Houhai. Secure the table in the turret to drink in grand views. Daily 11am-2am. 36 Yandai Xiejie, Xicheng District. (6403 4913) 海吧, 西城区烟袋斜街36号 Hanabi Shot Bar Daily 7pm-2am. Rm 101, Bldg B, Ruichang Huiguan, Guandongdian Beijie (north side of Chaoyang Beilu, 100m west of Dongsanhuan), Chaoyang District. (5138 9870) 花火, 朝阳区关东店北街核桃园30号瑞昌会馆B座101（朝阳北路东三环往西走100米） Happiness Lounge Act classy and live it up at this seven-star hotel bar. The view over the Bird’s Nest and Water Cube won’t disappoint. Daily 3pm-2am. 20/F, Pangu 7 Star Hotel, 27 Beisihuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5906 7888) 朝阳区北四环中路 27号 Havana Bar 22 varieties of rum. Tapas at the bar and cigars in the cigar divan. Daily 5pm-1.30am. Grand Millennium Beijing, Fortune Plaza, 7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (6530 9383) 朝阳区东三环中路7号财富中心 Hex Has a space-age beehiveish look which sets the mood for a night out. Enjoy the view of the “infinity pool” with Jackie Ho’s signature drinks. Daily 6pm-1am. Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6559 6266) 东城区前门东大街23号 Hidden Dreams A classy establishment with the possibility of tango and romance. Mon-Fri 9am-11pmi, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm. Zhangzizhong Lu number 3, Dongcheng District. (6403 0688) 东城区东城区张自忠路3号 Higher & Higher Miniature two-room dive. Daily 5pm-late. Sanlitun Houjie (opposite Tongli Studios), Chaoyang District. 朝阳区三里屯后街同里对面 Hooters It’s Hooters, just in Beijing. Daily 11am-1am. Rm 201, Bldg 1, China View, intersection of Gongti Bei and Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6585 8787) www.hooterschina.com 朝阳区工人体育场东路和工人体育场北路交接口，中国红街1号201 Hope Bar Tropical plants, large rattan chairs and a standard-issue chill out soundtrack make you feel like you’ve landed in Ibiza or French Colonial Vietnam, with the exception of the decidedly affordable drinks. Daily 2pm-2am. 20 Houhai Nan (150m west of Yinding bridge), Xicheng District. (6613 6209) 后海吧, 西城区后海南 20号银锭桥往西150米 Houhai Paradise Mega-dance club on the Houhai strip. Daily 6pm-3am. 31 Di’anmenwai Dajie, Xicheng District. (8401 5076) www.houhaitiantangbar.com 后海天堂, 西城区地安门外大街31号 Hutong Bar One of the few bars in the ‘hood that has paid more attention to the space between its walls than space beside the lake. Daily 2pm-2am. 8 Houhai Nanyan, Xicheng District. (6615 8691) 胡同写意, 西城区后海南沿8号 Huxley’s Shut Up and Drink: Not much more need be said, really. Daily 6pm-late. Yandai Xiejie (the street running diagonally between the Drum Tower and Yinding Bridge), Xicheng District. (6402 7825, info@shutupjustdrink.com) 德彼酒吧, 西城区烟袋斜街16号 Ichikura This tiny bar packs in as good a variety of single malt whiskies as you’ll find in Beijing. 2/F (entrance via stairs at south wall of Chaoyang Theater), Chaoyang Theater, 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. 朝阳区东三环北路36号 IN A typical Nanluogu Xiang bar. Daily 2.30pm-3am. 17-1 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (8402 2050) 东城区南

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锣鼓巷17-1号 The Irish Volunteer This Irish bar stays true to the Irish culture, Guinness included (RMB 60). This two-room saloon also offers food. Daily 9am-2am. Jiangtai Lu (opposite the east gate of the Lido Hotel), Chaoyang District. 朝阳区高家园小区平房 311号(丽都饭店东门对面) Jazz-Ya This comfortable bar and restaurant maintains the look and feel of a Japanese diner, complete with the clientele and Japanese pop music (interspersed with some great jazz). The main room has a bar and large wooden tables, while off to the side is a smaller restaurant area where they serve everything from Tokyo noodles to spaghetti carbonara and tasty Long Island ice teas. Daily 11.30am-2am. 18 Sanlitun Beilu (North Bar Street), Chaoyang District. (6415 1227) 爵士, 朝阳区三里屯北路18号 Jerry’s Bar A nice place to drink classy alcohol, in the Wu. Daily 10am-midnight. 1/F, Wenjin International Hotel, Tsinghua University South Gate, Chengfu Lu, Chaoyang District. (6261 8592) 朝阳区成府路清华大学南门文津国际酒店1层西侧 Jiangjinjiu Bar This intimate space offers laid-back jam sessions and often hosts ethnic minority bands. Daily 2pm-2am. 2 Zhongku Hutong, (between Drum and Bell towers on the west side, a few doors south of The Drum and Bell), Dongcheng District. (8405 0124) www.jiangjinjiu.cn 将进酒吧, 东城区钟库胡同2号 (鼓楼北门) Jimmy’s Thai Kitchen Local groups perform live jazz and world music. Beer, wine and Thai snacks are among the refreshments. Daily 11am-1am. 1/F, Bldg B (across from Baskin-Robbins), East Gate Plaza, 19 Dongzhong Jie, Chaoyang District. (6415 5157) 朝阳区东中街19号东环广场B座南门1层 Jimmy’s Thai Kitchen & Lounge Daily 11am-1am. 1/F, Bldg B (across from BaskinRobbins), East Gate Plaza, 19 Dongzhong Jie, Dongcheng District. (6415 5157) 东城区东中街19号东环广场B座南门1层 Kai Club Cheap drinks, indie rock and a comfortable lounge upstairs. Mon-Fri 7.30pm-2am, Sat-Sun 7.30pm-5am. Sanlitun Beijie (around the corner from Poachers Inn), Chaoyang District. (6416 6254) 开, 朝阳区三里屯北街友谊青年酒店拐弯处 Kick With a cachaça cocktail in hand, groove to the Brazilian style baile funk music or relax on the balcony with a drink and watch the Sanlintun’s scenesters. Daily 6pm-late. 2/F, Tongli Studios, Sanlitun Houjie (across from Cheers Cafe), Chaoyang District. 朝阳区朝阳区三里屯后街同里2层 Kilimanjaro African Bar A cool place to relax and chat. Cocktails are beautiful. Mombasa street snacks are on the menu as well. Daily 2pm-1am. 138 Jiaodaokou Nandajie, Dongcheng District. (8404 2298) 非洲风情吧, 东城区交道口南大街138号 King’s Bar A Shunyi local. Daily noonmidnight. South gate of Capital Paradise (across from Lion Mart), Shunyi District. (8046 5456) 老K酒吧, 顺义区名都园南门 Kokomo Top-class terrace and quality cocktails. Sun-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6pm-4am. 4/F Tongli Studios, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District. (6413 1019, kokomobeijing@gmail.com) www.kokomobeijing.com 朝阳区三里屯后街同里4层 Ku-18 Hosts mostly live music and electronica shows. Daily 2pm-late. 18 Originality Square, 798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (138 1077 8398) 18库, 朝阳区酒仙桥路798创意广场18号 La Baie des Anges Bright and breezy courtyard wine bar. Tue-Sun 6pm-2am. 5 Nanguanfang Hutong (just south of Hutong Pizza), Houhai, Xicheng District. (6657 1605) www.la-baie-des-anges.com 天使港湾休闲酒吧, 西城区后海南官房胡同 5号（胡同批萨南边） La Bamba This two-story restaurant and bar offers RMB 10 drink specials, hearty food, a pool table, foosball table, darts, and tv screens. Daily 10am-6am. Wudaokou, East gate Huaqing Jiayuan, Haidian

October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 67 that’smags

BARS & CLUBS

Cutie Club Similar to most of the other venues that make up the strip of clubs alongside the west gate of the Workers’ Stadium: dazzling lights, pounding house and hip-hop beats, brash 1980s-inspired decor complete with smoked glass paneling, neon lighting, and an upscale(ish) clientele. Daily 9pm-late. 8 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6552 9988) 美丽会, 朝阳区工体西路8号

East Shore Live Jazz Cafe Go for the music, the vibe and the panoramic views of Qianhai. Daily 2.30pm-2am. 2/F, 2 Qianhai Nanyanlu (just to the west of the post office on Di’anmenwai Dajie), Xicheng District. (8403 2131) 东岸咖啡, 西城区地安门外大街前海南沿2号楼2层

tional Tower (east side of Chaoyang Park), Chaoyang District. (5928 3045, gd@vip. sina.com) www.gdclub.net.cn 鹅和鸭, 朝阳区朝阳公园桥东侧路北观湖国际大厦1号写字楼首层

For a comprehensive directory, see www.thebeijinger.com District. (8286 6755) 海淀区五道口华清嘉园东门，五角星酒吧2、3层 La Cave This refuge from the hustle and bustle of the city has all that one would expect for an relaxed evening with friends or a significant other; delectable fare and over 150 different wines. Refined and discreet décor meet the attentive multilingual staff. Enjoy their lunch special complete with a glass of house wine, or come later to sample the Korean noodles after 10pm. Daily 11.30am-3pm 5.30pm1am. Jiangtai Xilu (west of the Rosedale Hotel), Chaoyang District. (6437 1242) 朝阳区将台西路珀丽酒店西侧

BARS & CLUBS

Lan Club Luxury venue with a restaurant, jazz lounge, oyster bar, a cocktail bar, a cigar room and 45 private VIP rooms. Daily 9am-11pm. 4/F, LG Twin Towers, 12B Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (5109 6012/13) www.lan-global.com 兰会所, 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号LG双子座4层 Lantung This three floor bar, lounge and restaurant is a breezy retreat for some spicy Thai cuisine. By night, the large lakeside seating and plush couches are perfect for a drink or two. Daily 10.30am2am. Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5905 6213) 兰棠, 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾国际商区 Lava Lounge What used to be an offshoot of Club Orange is now all that’s left of the place. It’s got the color scheme of its predecessor, but has opted for a more mock-traditional atmosphere, complete with giant red pillars. It’s out of the way (perhaps fatally so), but decent drink specials await those who make the trek. Daily 11-2am. Dong’erhuan Lu (East Second Ring Road), 500m west of Guangming Qiao, on the south side of the street, first floor of Baigong Fang, Chongwen District. (6714 6813) 欢聚时光, 崇文区东二环路光明桥往西200米(路南)百工坊1层 Le Le Bar Across from BISU, distractions are a plenty with great music bumping while you drink those eight shots and go “Around the World.” Daily 1pm-3am. 194 Chaoyang Lu (opposite BISU), Chaoyang District. (6576 5987) 朝阳区朝阳路194号（北京第二外国语学对面） Lobby Lounge A great place to meet for high tea or something a little stronger. Daily 6-10.30pm. Tower 1, 25 Yuanda Lu, Haidian District. (8889 8000) 大堂酒廊, 海淀区海淀区远大路25号，福朋喜来登酒店1楼 Local A spot for students to sip beer, eat food and listen to (mostly South Korean) pop music. Bring a Korean friend if you want to be sure of getting in. Daily 11.30am-2am. Inside Bldg 4 of the Xijiao Hotel, Wudaokou, Haidian District. (6232 2288 ext 4989) 赛亚咖啡厅, 海淀区五道口西郊宾馆4号楼 Loco Shoot the breeze, smoke a hookah pipe or play boardgames. Daily 5pm-2am. 1/F, Bldg 4, Xijiao Hotel, 18 Wangzhuang Lu, Wudaokou, Haidian District. (6232 2288 ext 4989) 海淀区五道口18号王庄路西郊宾馆4号楼1层 Logos Looks like a rock star’s dream.The VIP room is floored in sheepskin. Daily 2pm-2am. Behind Oriental Qicai World, facing Nurenjie, Chaoyang District. (8448 0880) 锦衣玉食, 朝阳区星吧路2号(女人街对面东方七彩大世界后面湖边) Long Long Ago Courtyard A slightly excessive mix of East and West, but nevertheless is a fine place to relax. Daily noon-3am. 111 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (6402 9788, 6404 9088) 红人坊, 东城区南锣鼓巷111号 Loong Bar A large, classy bar with the size, ambition and prices to be Centro redux. Daily 5.30pm-2am. 2/F, JW Marriott Hotel, 83 Jianguo Lu, China Central Place, Chaoyang District. (5908 8906) 龙吧, 朝阳区华贸中心建国路83号JW万豪酒店2层 Lotus Blue Bar and Restaurant Tintin-inspired bar that serves up Thai dishes and live music. Mon-Fri 1.30pm-2am, Sat-Sun 11.30am-2am. 51-6, Di’anmen Dajie (Qianhaixiyan), Xicheng District. (6617 2599/2733) 蓝莲花餐吧, 西城区地安门西大街51-6号（北海北门对面天荷坊14内） Lotus Lane The Lotus Lane strip (and it can

68 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

only be described as a strip) is home to a row of bars of comparable luxury. Though anyone used to Houhai’s other spots will find these bars excessive and then some, they definitely fill a certain niche. Qianhai Xiyan, 51 Di’anmen Dajie, Dongcheng District. 天荷坊, 东城区地安门大街51号前海西沿 Loveshine Gum-chewing staff begrudgingly preside over the wooden interior decorated with sofas. Film buffs take note: Loveshine screens two movies per night. 1pm-4am. 12 Houhai Beiyan, Xicheng District. (8400 2941) 七月七日晴咖啡屋, 西城区后海北沿12号 Lugar Catering to mature area clientele, Lugar is a non-smoking Vietnamese tapas bar focusing on hard-to-find wines and whiskeys. Daily 6pm-late. 70 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6709 1383) 东城区鼓楼东大街70号 Luga’s Beer and Mexican food. Daily 24hrs. Opposite Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District. (6416 5154) 朝阳区三里屯后街同里对面 Luga’s Villa More beer and Mexican food. Daily 11am-2am. 7 Sanlitun Beijie (behind 3.3 Shopping Center), Chaoyang District. (6416 2575) 朝阳区三里屯北街7号3.3购物中心后 Luna Lounge Following in the footsteps of Bed. Daily noon-2am. 138 Jiugulou Dajie, Xicheng District. (8402 4417) 潞娜, 西城区旧鼓楼大街138号 Lush A caffeinated study spot by day and by night a place to cut loose. Daily 24hrs. 2/F, Bldg 1, Huaqing Jiayuan, Chengfu Lu (across from the Wudaokou light-rail station), Haidian District. (8286 3566) www. lushbeijing.com 海淀区成府路华清嘉园1号楼2层（五道口城铁站对面） Maggie’s Legendary hot dogs. No joke. Sun-Wed, 7.30pm-4.30am; Thu-Sat, 7.30pm-5am. South Gate of Ritan Park, Chaoyang District. (8562 8142/8143) www. maggiesbar.com 美琪, 朝阳区日坛公园南门 Magic Rock This bar caters to the West Side climbing crew and organizes climbing trips around Beijing. Mountaineering gear and camping equipment are the bar’s equivalent of wallpaper, along with posters of beefy studs flexing their pecs as they ascend boulders. Daily 6pm-2am. 3 Weigongcun Lu, Haidian District. (6845 1142) 魔岩酒吧, 海淀区魏公村路3号 Manchester Pub English pub with table football, good tunes, and generous drinks. Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 9B Yinding Qiao Hutong (near Hutong Pizza), Houhai, Xicheng District. (134 2640 0005) 西城区后海银锭桥胡同乙9号 MAO Livehouse The capital’s premier music venue. Daily 4pm-late. 111 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6402 5080) www.maolive.com 光芒, 东城区鼓楼东大街111号 Mao Mao Chong Thoughtful, well-rounded and reasonably priced. Daily 2pm-late. 55A Wudaoying Hutong (west of the Lama Temple), Dongcheng District. (139 2692 4563) www.maomaochongstore.com 东城区五道营胡同甲55号(雍和宫西边) M Bar This posh, expensive, decadent, wallet-emptying, cushioned, elegant womb has prices for royalty. Daily 6pm-2am. 6th floor Tower C Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District. (8599 6666 ext 6525) 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场C座六层 Meli Melo Champagne bar. Daily 2pm1am. 16 Yonganli, West side of Jianwai Soho, Chaoyang District. (8521 9988) 朝阳区建外大街永安里16号CBD国际大厦 Mesh Equally at home to post-retail therapy or a night on the tiles. Daily 5pm-2am. 1/F, The Opposite House, Bldg 1, The Village at Sanlitun, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6417 6688, info@theoppositehouse.com) www.theoppositehouse.com 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯Village1号楼瑜舍1层 MGM Hong Kong-designed but unmistakably Beijing. 8.30pm-late. Inside the west gate of Workers’ Stadium, Chaoyang District. (6552 5556) 朝阳区工体西门内

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Mix (Gongti) Like Vics. Daily 8pm-late. Inside the north gate of Workers’ Stadium, Chaoyang District. (6530 2889) 密克斯, 朝阳区工体北门内 Mix (Westin Chaoyang) Live jazz in the evenings and an extensive selection of champagnes, wines and whiskey. Daily 5pm-midnight. 1/F, Westin Beijing Chaoyang, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (5922 8000) 朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店1层 Nanjie Two floors packed with exchange students. Low prices. Daily 5pm-5am. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (opposite to Banana Leaf), Chaoyang District. (6413 0963) 南街, 朝阳区工体北路4号院蕉叶对面 Nashville Bar & Restaurant 20 percent country, 80 percent classic rock. Daily 11am-3am. Haoyun Jie, 29 Zaoying Lu, Chaoyang District. (5867 0298) www.nashville.com.cn 乡谣, 朝阳区枣营路29号好运街 Nearby the Tree Beer and pizza, plus waffles. Daily 11am-midnight (restaurant closes at 10pm). Xingfu Sancun 3 Xiang (behind Yashow, west of Tongli), Chaoyang District. (6413 1522 / 87) 树旁边酒吧, 朝阳区幸福三村三巷三里屯南33号院内(雅秀后边同里西边) Ned’s Run by Aussies who love to drink. Daily 6pm-late. 84 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (nedsbeijing@hotmail. com) 东城区南锣鼓巷84号 Night Club All the usual flotsam of highrolling Beijing entertainment. Daily 9pm-late. 4 Gongti Beilu (200m south of Nanjie), Chaoyang District. (6501 6698) www.98nightclub.com 夜未英, 朝阳区工体北路4号（南三里屯机电院内） No Name Bar Chillout lakeside lounge. Daily noon-2am. 3 Qianhai Dongyan (next to Kaorou Ji restaurant), Xicheng District. (6401 8541) 无名酒吧, 西城区前海东沿3号烤肉季隔壁 Nuage See Restaurant Directory under “Vietnamese.” Daily 11am-11pm. 22 Qianhai Dongyan, Xicheng District. (6401 9581) 庆云楼, 西城区前海东沿22号 Obelisco Sophisticated Argentinian eatery with standout steaks and a wine list heavy with New World bottles. A cavernous palace for the carnivorous. Mon-Thu 11am2pm and 5-10pm, Fri-Sun 11am-10pm. 1 Laiguangying Donglu (near Lane Bridge, look for the giant obelisk), Chaoyang District. (8470 1666) 阿根廷烤肉, 朝阳区来广营东路一号(机场高速北皋出口京顺路右边) Obiwan A natty little bar in which to unravel away an afternoon and make a night of it. Daily 2pm-2am. 4 Xihai Xiyan (300m from Jishuitan subway station), Xicheng District. (8322 1231, contact@clubobiwan.com.cn) www.clubobiwan.com.cn 西城区西海西沿4号 Ocean Butterflies Red Opened by an entertainment conglomerate, this joint brags a live band playing international pop hits, food with a Malaysian twist, and a slide that takes your drunken inner child from the balcony to the stage area. Club prices on a mediocre drink selection. Daily 10am-late. Room 301, 2 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6506 7737) 海蝶红, 朝阳区工体东路2号301室 O’le Football Daily 9am-11pm. 5 Dongshimencun Lu, Baiziwan Qiao, Dongsihuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (6776 0608) 朝阳区东四环中路百子湾桥东石门村路5号 The One Bar Four story flair bar playing hip-hop and r&b. Chill music upstairs, dance floor and a pond in the basement with plenty of plush red couches to relax on. Daily 6pm-2am. 2 Diaoyutai Shanzhuang (south of Hangtian Qiao), Xisanhuan Lu, Haidian District. (8802 8021/8023) 得湾酒吧, 海淀区西三环航天桥南50米路东钓鱼台山庄2号别墅 Paddy O’Shea’s In the heart of the capital, Paddy O’Shea’s caters to all things Irish. With the best-poured Guinness in town, and an afternoon long happy hour, you can easily get trapped into what may be the first genuine Irish pub to hit Beijing. Free quiz nights every Wed from 8pm, with well-sponsored prizes. Daily 10amlate. 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Chaoyang

District. (6415 6389) www.paddyosheas. com 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 Palette Vino Oenophile recommended. Daily 11am-10pm. 5 Dongsi Shiyitiao, Dongcheng District. (6405 4855) www. palettewines.cn 派乐坊, 东城区东四十一条5号 Pass By Bar A favorite for expats in the neighborhood and backpackers on the China granola circuit, this bar is an ideal place for intimate conversation. Tibetan prints and wooden masks adorn the walls and there’s a selection of reading material to browse and borrow (if you donate three books). Daily 9.30am-2am. 108 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (6400 6868) www.gk01.com 过客, 东城区南锣鼓巷108号 Pavillion Relaxed, high-end bar for the sports and late night crowds. Daily 10am2am. Gongti Xilu (opposite west gate of Workers’ Stadium), Chaoyang District. (6507 2617) www.pavillionbeijing.com 万龙腾飞, 朝阳区工体西路（工人体育场西门对面） People’s Bus Bar Cleaned-up beer fun. Daily 5pm-late. Inside the Longbo Compound, 16 Nongzhanguan, Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang District. (8705 6011) 朝阳区东三环农展馆16号隆博广场内 Pepper The boy band of the Beijing bar scene – renowned for their nightly cocktail shows. Daily 7pm-late. North of Xijiao Hotel, Wangzhuang Lu, Wudaokou, Haidian District. (8237 2963) 辣椒, 海淀区五道口王庄路西郊宾馆北边 Pig & Thistle English Bar An English pub offering a variety of imported beers and snacks. Daily 5pm-2am. 1/F, Holiday Inn Lido Beijing, 6 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (6437 6688) 英式酒吧, 朝阳区将台路 6号北京丽都假日酒店1层 Pink Loft See Restaurant Directory under “Thai.” Daily 11am-midnight. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (2nd Floor of The Loft), Chaoyang District. (6506 8811) 粉酷, 朝阳区工体北路4号院内（藏酷二层） Pipes This indie dive is best known for the sapphic soirees that take place on Saturday nights. 6pm-2am. Gongti Nanmen, Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6593 7756) 烟斗, 朝阳区工体南门富国海底世界往东100米 Plan B Daily 7pm-2am. B/1F, Tsinghua Tongfang Bldg. Square, 1 Wangzhuang Lu, Haidian District. (150 1088 5542, 131 4132 1744) 海淀区王庄路1号清华同方大厦科技广场 Plush Filled with natural light and overlooking a modern zen garden. Daily 7am1am. 1/F, The Westin Beijing, 9B Financial Street, Xicheng District. (6606 8866 ext 7825) 西城区金融大街乙9号北京金融街威斯汀大酒店1层 Poachers Inn Consistently packed with young things flirting and dancing on the tables. Not the place to discuss Kierkegaard. Daily 8pm-late. 43 Bei Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6417 2632 ext 8506) 友谊青年酒店, 朝阳区北三里屯路南43号 The Pomegranate All about carbo-loading with the draft beer and the sports channel here. Mon-Thu 10am-midnight, Fri 10am-2am, Sat-Sun 8am-2am. 19 Kaifa Lu, Xibaixinzhuang, Hou Sha Yu, Shunyi District. (8046 2558) 石榴园, 顺义区后沙峪西白辛庄开发路19号 The Pool Bar Chill pool fun. Daily 6pm2am. 106 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (8404 7956) 东城区鼓楼东大街 106号 Press Club Bar On February 21, 1972, US President Richard Nixon landed in Beijing airport on a visit, which, he later said, “changed the world.” The name of this classy bar derives from it being the gathering place for pressmen during the historic meeting. Tasteful live music complements the soft lighting, warm brass rails and soft leather chairs that together imbue a hush hush ambiance. Editor’s Pick for “Best Hotel Bar” in our 2006 Reader Bar and Club Awards. Daily 5pm-1am. 1/F, St. Regis Hotel Beijing, 21 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6460 6688 ext

2360) 记者吧, 东城区建国门外大街21号北京国际俱乐部饭店1层 Propaganda Expect a student-heavy atmosphere. Mon-Fri 8pm-4.30am, Sat-Sun 8pm-5am. 100m north of the east gate of Huaqing Jiayuan, Wudaokou, Haidian District. (8286 3991) 海淀区五道口华清嘉园东门往北100米 Provincia Beijing’s first bar and kitchen theater is quite the spectacle. Relax with offerings from the extensive wine list and cocktail menu. Mon-Sat 5pm-1am. Beijing Marriott Hotel City Wall, 7 Jianguomen Nandajie, Chaoyang District. (5811 8888 ext 8233) 朝阳区建国门南大街7号北京万豪酒店 Punk A mixture of urban and neo-Gothic where big name DJs spin an eclectic mix. B1/F, The Opposite House, Bldg 1, The Village at Sanlitun, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6410 5222, info@barpunk.com) www.barpunk.com 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯Village1号楼瑜舍地下1层

Q Bar Quality tunes and top-notch cocktails. Nice terrace. Daily 5pm-2am. Top floor of Eastern Inn Hotel, 6 Baijiazhuang Lu (the south end of Sanlitun Nanlu), Chaoyang District. (6595 9239) www.qbarbeijing.com 朝阳区百家庄6号（朝阳门医院北门东100米）三里屯南路逸羽连锁酒店顶楼 Queen Club Fashionable customers move to progressive house music. Loungers can try the comfortable seating areas with modern sofas. Connected to nearby Angel by a narrow corridor. Daily 8pm-late. 6 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6553 3555) 朝阳区工体西路6号 Rainbow African Bar The place to go for a taste of Africa, with everything from live African music to African wine tasting. Daily 10.30am-2am. B1/F, Bldg C, Qinghua Science and Technology Mall, Haidian District. (8215 0681, 5872 2026) 海淀区清华科技大厦C座地下一层 Red House In Wudaokou at the Red House you can find everything you need for the night: thin crust pizzas, Belgian beers, sandwiches, pasta, and shots. All of which are for great affordable prices. Daily noon-midnight. Wangzhuang Lu (20m north of Chengfu Lu intersection), Haidian District. (6291 3350) 海淀区五道口王庄路（成府路路口往北20米） Redmoon Redmoon at the Grand Hyatt includes a wine bar, sushi bar and cigar lounge, all sleekly designed to cater to the executive set. Daily 5pm-1am. 1/F, Grand Hyatt Hotel, Beijing Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an Jie, Dongcheng District. (6510 9366) 东方亮, 东城区东长安街1号东方君悦酒店大厅 Rendezvous Meet up with like-minded exchangers of language for a beer, or forgo the chitchat and drink in the Americana decor. Daily 10.30am-1am. B/1F, Urban Backyard, 248 Chengfu Lu, Haidian District. (159 0122 2700, 150 0104 7436) 海淀区成府路248号都市后院地下一层 Republic Coffee Specializes in hot beverages, as well as boasting a diverse dessert menu and a private library. Daily 10am5am. 72 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (8402 0835) 载巷, 东城区南锣鼓巷72号 The Rickshaw Happy hour daily 4-8pm, with RMB 10 Tsingtao and half-price drinks. Daily 9am-5am. Sanlitun Nanlu (north of the turn-off to The Bookworm), Chaoyang District. (6500 4330) 朝阳区三里屯南路滚石西门中旅大厦旁 The Ritz-Carlton Bar Light live music and a lounge atmosphere. Daily 5pm-1am. The Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jianguo Road, Chaoyang District. (5908 8131) 丽思卡尔顿吧, 朝阳区朝阳区建国路93号华贸中心

Roses Pull up a stool at the bar and enjoy reasonably priced beers and live music from Tuesday to Saturday. Daily 11am2am. 1 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District. (6461 2689) 老镇玫瑰, 朝阳区三里屯后街1号 Ruby Khi Daily 6pm-late. 3/F, Block 8, Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6508 8585) 朝阳区朝阳公园西路八号公馆3层 The Saddle Cantina Prime summer-time bar-estate. Daily 11am-late. West wing, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu (south of 3.3 Shopping Center), Chaoyang District. (5208 6005) www.beijingsaddle.com 朝阳区三里屯北路81号北京那里花园内西侧二层小楼. Salsa Caribe A raucous blend of sweat, sin and extremely tight pants. Daily 6pm-2am. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (across from The Loft), Chaoyang District. (6507 7821) www.caribechina.com 卡利宾拉丁舞俱乐部, 朝阳区工体北路4号院（藏酷斜对面） Salud Fine rums. Weekdays 3pm-late, weekends noon-late. 66 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (6402 5086) 老伍, 东城区南锣鼓巷66号 Scarlett Sexy Hollywood setting with sizzling hot burgers and milk shakes for a magical experience. Just know that the experience won’t come cheap. Daily 6pm3am. Hotel G, 7A Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6552 2880) www.hotel-g.com 朝阳区工体西路甲7号北京极栈内 Shooters A slightly classier alternative to the other budget Sanlitun favorites. SunThu 6pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6pm-4am. Bldg 40, 5 Sanlitun Houjie (opposite Fish Nation), Chaoyang District. (6416 3726) 朝阳区三里屯后街5号40号楼鱼邦对面 Siif The basement looks like a broke frathouse dance floor, the ground level is a bar, and the upstairs is a chill-out area with a balcony. Come here to hide. Daily 1pm-2am. 67 Beiluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (6406 9496) 如果, 东城区鼓楼东大街北锣鼓巷67号 Sino-Chu Wine Bar Home to Beijing Tango’s regular Sunday night parties, this cozy bar also offers some decent, wellpriced European fare. Daily 10am-2am. 18 Liangmahe Nanlu (behind the Australian embassy), Chaoyang District. (8532 2418) 亮马河红酒屋, 朝阳区东直门外大街亮马河南路18号 Song Music Bar & Kitchen A “living art” space with a hive-like ambiance. Daily 10am-2am. B108 The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6587 1311, song@songbeijing.cn) www.songbeijing. cn 朝阳区光华路九号世贸天阶B108 Souk See Restaurant Directory under “Middle Eastern.” Daily 5pm-2am. West Gate of Chaoyang Park (in the alley behind Annie’s), Chaoyang District. (6506 7309) 苏克会馆, 朝阳区朝阳公园西门（安妮后面） The Star Live The only real medium-sized live music venue in Beijing. Hosts local pop and international acts. Spread over two floors, the VIP section is upstairs while the open space on the ground floor is satisfyingly close to the stage. Opening times vary. 3/F, Tango, 79 Heping Xijie (50m north of Yonghegong subway station), Dongcheng District. (6425 5677) www. thestarlive.com 星光现场, 东城区和平西街 79号糖果三层（雍和宫桥路北50米） Sulede You come to this bar to hear nightly, mighty Mongolian folk-rock band, whose throat-singing and horse head fiddle take you right out of Beijing and into the wide, starlit grasslands. 66 Minzu Daxue Xilu, Haidian District. (6893 8903) 苏勒德音乐酒吧, 海淀区民族大学西路66号 The World of Suzie Wong Club Part 1930’s

Shanghai opium den and part postmodern lounge. Daily 8.30pm-late. 1A Nongzhanguan Lu (west gate of Chaoyang Park), Chaoyang District. (6500 3377, clubsuziewong@163.com) www.suziewong. com.cn 苏西黄, 朝阳区农展馆路甲1号朝阳公园西门 Tang Club All the subtlety of a crashed camp spaceship. You can’t help but be impressed, but stay too long here and you begin to feel sick. Daily 8.30pm-4am. 8 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6500 8888) 唐会迷城, 朝阳区朝阳公园西路8号 Tango Karaoke, with a nightclub at Yonghegong. Daily 24hrs. 1) South Gate of Ditan Park (next to Jin Ding Xuan restaurant), Dongcheng District. (6428 2288); 2) Gongti Xilu (beneath Gongti 100 bowling alley), Chaoyang District. (6551 9988) www.tanguo.com 糖果, 1) 东城区地坛公园南门; 2) 朝阳区工体西路工体100保龄球馆下面 Taozhi Yaoyao It’s quiet (miraculously), and the drinks are pretty good. Looking for a place for a date? Daily 2pm-midnight. Beiguanfang Hutong (west of Houhai Nanyan, beside Tinghaiting), Xicheng District. (6611 8585) 桃之夭夭, 西城区后海南沿北官房胡同（听海汀旁边） T Bar A cozy environment for after dinner drinks, cocktails and snacks. Enjoy the live music in the evenings. 8am-1am. 1/F, Traders Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6505 2277 ext 36) 四海酒吧, 东城区建国门外大街1号国贸饭店1层 The Lounge Imported beers and good wine in an aquatic-themed back room. Daily 8am-1am. Lobby, Beijing Marriott Hotel Northeast, 26A Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District. (5927 8888) 朝阳区霄云路甲26号海航大厦万豪酒店 Tim’s Texas Bar-B-Q Tim’s has moved, the meat-eater friendly restaurant has packed all its authentic high-plains kitsch flown in from the Lonestar State. 2 for 1 Happy Hour every Monday-Friday from 3-7pm. Daily 9am-midnight. 14 Dongdaqiao Lu (on the corner of Guanghua Lu), Chaoyang District. (6591 9161) www. timsbarbq.com Tim’s 熏烤房, 朝阳区东大桥路14号贵友大厦正北200米 Tiny Salt Coffee Club Large and open space with Hollywood blockbusters after 6pm. Relax and avoid the rush with Tsingtaos for RMB 8. Weekend live music. TueSun 11.30am-late. Rm 2308, Bldg B, North Tower, Soho Shangdu, 8 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (5900 0969) 朝阳区东大桥路8号Soho尚都北塔B座3层2308 Together For folks in search of beer and classic Wailers tunes. 5pm-1am, weekends 5pm-2am. 500m south of China World Shopping Mall, east side of Dong Sanhuan, Chaoyang District. (8771 4865) www.togetherbar.com 朝阳区国贸商城向南 500米东三环外侧 Tonic Lounge A modern, cozy bar offering a selection of mixed drinks, wine by the glass and aperitifs. The bar is well designed with a stunning bar counter, a low ceiling and comfortable lounge seating. Daily 10am-12.30am. Lobby Level of Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, Chaoyang District. (5865 5000 ext 5060) 汤尼酒廊, 朝阳区北京希尔顿酒店大堂 Touch A cutting-edge lounge with 88 kinds of vodka, and a wide selection of vodka-infused cocktails. DJs and regular live music shows provide entertainment, with a menu of bite-size snacks too. Sun-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6pm-3am. 2/F, Westin Beijing Chaoyang, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (5922 8888 ext 8112) 朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店2层 Tree House A bar-cafe with a funky living room feel and a gnarled jujube tree as neighbor. Good drink prices, free Wi-Fi, a collection of Chinese books and films with regular cinema and art events. Daily 2pm1am. 81 Xiaoju’er Hutong, Dongcheng District. (6407 1665) www.treehousebeijing.com 菊儿小树, 东城区小菊儿胡同81号

crowd. Daily noon-2am. 43 Sanlitun Beijie (100m west of Sanlitun North Bar street, Youyi Youth Hostel, behind Poachers Inn), Chaoyang District. (6415 1954) www.treebeijing.com 隐蔽的树, 朝阳区三里屯北街以西100米Poachers后面三里屯医院旁 Tun A large, cavernous space with a sofaequipped mezzanine and two big screens for watching sports. Daily 6pm-late. Courtyard 4 (20m south of Salsa Caribe), Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6585 5866, tunbar@gmail.com) 屯, 朝阳区工体北路4号院 Vics Like Mix, albeit with a slightly more expat crowd. Daily 8.30pm-late. Inside the north gate of the Workers’ Stadium, Chaoyang District. (5293 0333) vics.com.cn 威克斯, 朝阳区工体北门内 Vulcan The fact that the décor edges close to tacky is partially redeemed by the price of draught beer. Daily 10am-late. 143 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District. (8404 0561) 火山人, 东城区南锣鼓巷143号 V*V Mid-sized dance club and music venue just north of Chaowai, playing standard hip-hop and club fare to a primarily Chinese clientele. Daily 8.30pm-3am. Gongti Nanlu A1, Chaoyang District. (6552 8388) 朝阳区工体南路甲1号 Wain Wain A Japanese karaoke bar set up perfectly for a great party. Daily 11am2.30am. SOHO Xiandaicheng, 88 Jianguo Lu, Building A, Room 3512, Chaoyang District. (8589 4383) 朝阳区建国路88号 SOHO现代城A座 What Bar An excellent place to get acquainted with Beijing Rock. Every seat is a front-row seat! Daily 4pm-late. 72 Beichang Jie (just north of the west gate of the Forbidden City), Xicheng District. (133 4112 2757) 什么酒吧, 西城区北长街 72号(故宫西门往北) Writers Bar Caviar and oysters complement the wide selection of cocktails and cigars. Daily noon-midnight. Raffles Beijing Hotel, Main Lobby, 33 Dongchang’an Jie, Dongcheng District. (6526 3388 ext 4181) 作家酒吧, 东城区东长安街33号, 北京饭店莱佛士一层 w xyz Music and cocktails flow freely. Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight. 1/F, aloft Beijing, Tower 2, 25 Yuanda Lu, Haidian District. (8889 8000) 海淀区远大路25号2号楼雅乐轩酒店1层 X’Change Bar A chic bar and lounge. Daily 10am-1am. 5/F, InterContinental Hotel, 11 Financial Street, Xicheng District. (5852 5888 ext 5920/5921) 幻吧, 西城区金融街 11号金融街洲际酒店 Xiu A summer-friendly terrace plus much more in the luxuriant lounge. Mon-Wed 5pm-2am, Thu-Sat 5pm-3am. Park Hyatt (entrance across from the hotel lobby), 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (5867 1108) 秀, 朝阳区朝阳区建国门外大街2号 Yugong Yishan This live music venue features a variety of local and international bands, and film screenings. Weekly themes are still in the works, but now is a perfect spot for more discriminating drunken debauchery. Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng District. (6404 2711, info@yugongyishan. com) www.yugongyishan.com 愚公移山, 东城区平安大道张自忠路3-2号(地铁五号线张自忠路站往西100米) Zeta Bar Boasts style, chrome cages that house the extensive wine collection hang from the high ceiling. Mon-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri-Sun 6pm-3am, Sun close. 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (5865 5050) 颐达吧, 朝阳区东三环北路东方路1号希尔顿饭店2层 Zhongyu Hanging Gardens Finally, a proper hanging garden to drink. Come for the drinks and stay for the killer view. Daily 10am-2am. Gongti Bei Lu Building 6 six, Zhongyu Plaza seventh floor, Chaoyang District. (8523 6616 ext 6677) 朝阳区工体北路甲6号中宇大厦7层

The Tree Specializes in Belgian beers and wood oven-fired pizzas. Most nights find it packed with a lively, conversant

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October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 69 that’smags

BARS & CLUBS

Pyro Pizza Classic thin-crust pizza served up with a good selection of affordable draft beers. Daily 4pm-late. Happy hour daily 10pm-midnight, RMB 25 pitchers and RMB 15 mixed drinks, 6 tequila shooters for RMB 50. Daily 11am-3am. B1/F, Bldg 12, Huaqing Jiayuan, Wudaokou (5 min from Wudaokou subway station), Haidian District. (8286 6240) 海淀区五道口华清嘉园 12号楼地下1层

Rock & Roll Inhouse go-go girls put on regular performances to the mix of cantotechno and NRG beats, and a karaoke bar off to the side lets patrons sing their hearts out. Sun-Thu RMB 20, weekends RMB 25. Daily 8.30pm-5am. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (behind The Loft), Chaoyang District. (6592 9856) 滚石, 朝阳区工体北路 4号院藏酷后边

MUSIC BARS & CLUBS

usic M Oct 16: Us3 Acid jazz from the UK. See listing, p73.

ummer is over. There’s no use denying it. So go ahead and bust out those sweatshirts and coats. But wait – not just yet. Don’t give in. There’s still time for one last shebang. At once, to the park! Look to the sky for answers. Yes, Modern Sky is taking over where the Beijing Pop Festival left off and hosting a music festival from October 4-7 in Chaoyang Park (see Feature, p72). Since its initiation in 2005, the Pop Fest has hosted some of the biggest international bands to grace Beijing – Nine Inch Nails, the Ramones, New York Dolls, Public Enemy, Placebo, Sebastian Bach, Supergrass … So Modern Sky deﬁnitely has a tradition to live up to. Still, things seem to be starting off well for the label’s Chaoyang christening; on the bill they’ve got Buzzcocks, British Sea Power, The Futureheads, Radio 4 and The (International) Noise Conspiracy (see Q&A, p73). Plus, on the local end, P.K.14, Hedgehog, Re-TROS, New Pants and Queen Sea Big Shark among others join the line-up. See listing, right, or head to http://festival.modernsky.com for detailed info. If all that sitting on the grass turns you off, 13 Club is a good alternative. The Wudaokou metal haven is hosting its own festival from October 3-4. Then, later in the month, Midi puts on its own festival of sorts – well, more of a two-day hodge podge of a musical gathering commemorating ten years of China’s longest-running music festival. On hand will be Miserable Faith, Muma & Third Party, The Verse, Brain Failure, Suffocation, Twisted Machine, AK-47 and SUBS to get the celebration going at 706 Factory House from October 23-24. We hope by that time the 798 art district will be open for events (unlike in September, when the Acupuncture Second Anniversary moved to Lan Club at the last minute due to an order to keep the peace before National Day). Cross your ﬁngers. Other big names popping up throughout the month: UK hip-hop jazz trio Us3 at Yugong Yishan on October 16 (see photo, above), metal legends Skid Row at The Star Live on October 2 (see Q&A, p74), Canadian turntablist Kid Koala on October 29 (see Clubhouse, p62), and German space-cadet-on-piano Maximilian Hecker on October 30. Last but not least, Beyoncé comes through town, fresh off winning 2009’s Video of the Year at MTV’s Video Music Awards. She makes a stop at Wukesong Arena on October 23. Maybe hubby Jay-Z will join her. Or her number one fan, Kanye West. Meanwhile, weirdos gather at The Star Live over two weekends at the end of the month. They include Dawanggang Band and Xiao He, who will play their abstract noise compositions to the accompaniment of video. And just in time for Halloween. Lisa Liang

70 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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All event listings are accurate at time of press and subject to change

For venue details, see directories, p65 Send events to listings@thebeijinger.com by

Oct 1 Candy Monster, The Gar, Golden Driver, Old Fashion Garage punks. RMB 50, RMB 40 (students). 10pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Chiren, Nanwu, G-Eleven Beijing folk celebrate National Day with a jazz line-up. RMB 50, RMB 50 (advance; buy three, get one free), RMB 120 (VIP). 8.30pm. The Star Live (6425 5677) Oct 2 Angry Jerks, Demerit, Discord, Fine 6, Flyx, Gum Bleeding, Jason Kill, P-Town, Rustic Rockers from beyond Beijing join the D-22 collective. RMB 60, RMB 50 (students). 7pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Skid Row, Miserable Faith, The Face Youths go wild for legendary hardcore rockers on a visit to Beijing. See Q&A, p74. RMB 290-690. 8pm. The Star Live (6425 5677) Xiao Meng, Ma Tiao, Lü Weiqing, Ajinai, Mademoiselle et les Chinois Artists from Taiwan, Inner Mongolia and Quebec open the folk/jazz concert series. RMB 50, RMB 40 (students). 8.30pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Oct 3 Duck Fight Goose, Guai Li, Hedgehog Shanghai rockers vs. Beijing punks. RMB 50, RMB 40 (students). 10pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Hoochie Coochie Gentlemam, April & Box, Gangzi, Wu Yongfeng, JAM, No Name Trio Acoustic and Xinjiang folk joined by jazz and blues cats. RMB 50, RMB 40 (students). 8.30pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Pet Conspiracy, Jeans Team The electro animals return from their European tour. RMB 50. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Oct 3-4 13 Metal Festival The sound of metal stops at lucky number 13. RMB 50 (per day). 8pm. 13 Club (8261 9267) Oct 4 Boojii, Duck Fight Goose, Girls are Waiting to Meet You, RandomK(e) Experimental and folk rock meet post-rock dwellers. RMB 50, RMB 30 (advance, students). 9pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Song Yuzhe, Xiao He The former Wooden Push Melon fellow, joined by freakie folkie Xiao He. RMB 40. 9pm. D-22 (6265 3177)

Oct 12

Oct 4-7 The 2009 Modern Sky Music Festival Buzzcocks, British Sea Power, The Futureheads, Radio 4 and The (International) Noise Conspiracy meets P.K.14, Hedgehog, Re-TROS, New Pants, Queen Sea Big Shark and more. See Feature, p72. More info at http://festival.modernsky. com. Tickets at www.mlive.me or 400 680 6840. RMB 120 (per day), RMB 100 (per day, limited advance), RMB 320 (four days, advance only). 1-9pm. Chaoyang Park (6506 5409) Oct 5 Housse de Racket Parisian electro-duo on its Beijing tour. RMB 150, RMB 100 (advance). 10pm. The Star Live (6425 5677) Oct 6 Buyi, Hanggai Rock into the Mongolian grassland. RMB 50, RMB 40 (students). 8.30pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) The (International) Noise Conspiracy, Guai Li, Soviet Pop Swedish rockers escape the park (see Oct 4-7 listing) and join local punksters and an experimental noise duo. See Q&A, p73. RMB 100, RMB 70 (students). 10pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) The Offset: Spectacles, Birdstriking, Streets Kill Strange Animals, Fat City, Cardiac Murmurs Experimental rockers turn on the distortion. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 8pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Oct 7 Pete Kronowitt Indie folk. RMB 50, RMB 50 (advance; buy four, get one free), RMB 40 (students). 9pm. The Star Live (6425 5677) Oct 7-8 Autumn People's Rock Festival Bands from Tokyo, Seoul, Taiyuan, Taipei and Kaohsiung. RMB 50 (per day), RMB 30 (students). 7pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Oct 8 Old Street, Liu Yusi Acoustic folk makes peace where punks usually cause a ruckus. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 9pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Oct 9 Chocho Maldito, Jurat, Nucleus, Pork Checo pays a folk visit to Wudaokou, supported by grunge rockers. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 10pm. D-22 (6265 3177)

Oct 10: Ibrahim Electric Funky, jazzy, rocky, Danish. See listing, p73.

REVIEWS Forget Rock & Roll, We’ve Got a Problem 他们说忘了摇滚有问题 Kidney

How Damn Far to Yinma Lane? 到饮马巷到底有多远? 8 Eye Spy

o here we have another postrock band very much into its own thing. At least this one hails from Nanjing, the hometown of Maybe Mars label lieutenant Yang Haisong. Like any Yang protégé, 8 Eye Spy is ﬁlled with promise – and cliché. A female vocalist singing in indecipherably impassioned English was cool up until about three years ago. Now it’s just painful. Get past that – and the album becomes more tolerable, with interesting rhythm changes and entrancing melodies. “Fog” (迷雾), for instance, starts with a hauntingly disjointed drum line, breaking off shortly into melodic guitar riffs, then going extreme with intense, off-key chords. It’s all quite engaging – until lead singer Lu Bai starts with her demented howling. Conversely, the up-and-down tempo of “Conditioning” (调教) is so unstable that it simply becomes too frustrating to humor. Perhaps not much can be expected from a debut, but no excuses should be made, either. Sophie Tsai It’s Just the Beginning 一切才刚刚开始 Da Ya

he album cover might suggest a mellow, indiepop college band, yet this big troupe brings together some veterans of Beijing’s music scene. The guitarist and drummer hail from the psychedelic blues band Sand; lead vocalist Ya Zi is the former bassist for local blues legends Hang Tian (as well as for Ningxia folk singer Su Yang). Combined, their laidback singing-style and intense solos make this a “healthy” rock album – with no sense of rebellion or resentment. Certain tracks unfortunately succumb to that “life-is-beautiful” and “you-can-make-it-ifyou-try” brand of corniness, but an instrumental-heavy title track provides a decent alternative to the album’s lyrical shortfalls; the djembe highlights shine throughout. “On the Road with Da Ya” (大伢在路上) also stands out, with its Santana-esque guitar solo in the bridge and a singing technique borrowed from local folk traditions. All of which goes to show: If you can get past the cheese, you’ll ﬁnd some meat. Wang Ge

Catch 22 is an apt name for this album. Does Tinchy turn his back on the grime that made his name for the pop success that made his fame? In short, yes. This sophomore effort owes more to the smooth inﬂuence of R&B superstars than it does recidivist rappers. Violent braggadocio is eschewed for electro-dipped feelings on impending stardom and, of course, the ladies. If more MCs swapped right hooks for sweet pop hooks, it would only be good for the youth, if not for teen pregnancy rates. Stryder may be small in stature, but two number ones suggest he’s big in the game. Henry Church

Everyday Ingrid Michaelson

In the latest wave of female singer-songwriters with ﬂuid voices and folksy inclinations, Ingrid Michaelson is the one who’s inﬁltrated hit show soundtracks (Grey’s Anatomy) and clothing commercials (Old Navy). Unlike Regina Spektor, who accompanies her falsetto with piano, and latest sensation Colbie Caillat, whose lilting tones go with acoustic guitar, Michaelson pairs her rich voice with the ukulele, organ and drums. No surprise on the pseudo soul-searching and romantically longing lyrics (this album could very well be called Girls and Boys II), and while “the battle of the heart isn’t easily won,” you can bet her fans are. Jessica Pan

Humbug Arctic Monkeys

It’s hard to know whether or not to be disappointed with Arctic Monkeys’ third album. It clearly marks a watershed in the tales of boozy nightlife shenanigans on Whatever They Say I Am. While Favourite Worst Nightmare tenuously edged from them, Humbug positively bolts away. But what to make of the menacing riffs and psychedelic stylings? The oblique lyrical wit is still evident, if occasionally bereft of reason; however, with more than a hint of Nick Cave (whose “Red Right Hand” is the B-side to the ﬁrst single), this album begs the question: Should we lament their development or celebrate their evolution? Paul Ryding

Light Matisyahu Reggae-wailing, beat-boxing and rapping Hasidic Jews don’t come around that often, and that was perhaps Matisyahu’s first claim to fame. Fortunately, his music – a unique blend of hip-hop, dancehall, rock and Jewish influences – keeps up the intrigue. Not much has changed since 2005’s breakthrough, Live at Stubb’s, save more gray in the beard, more salt in the hair, more curl in the payot. This third studio effort upholds his proclivity for beat-boxing, Jamaican inflections and prophetical messages, though also demonstrating a heavier reliance on synthesizers and guitars. It may not be anything revolutionary, but Light does offer its fair share of shine. Lisa Liang

The Resistance Muse Ever since 1999’s Showbiz, Muse has been singing anthems to elapsed youth and last-hurrah hormones, up through 2006’s glamorously multigenre fabrication, Black Holes & Revelations. With their ﬁfth LP, would the band experience its own mid-life crisis, turning freaky electro like so many other British rock bands? Matt Bellamy and his mates avoid that path. Instead, the encounter between rock and classical in The Resistance is just enough to give pause to people who still believe Absolution to be Muse’s best. Even after ten years, Bellamy ﬁnds a way to offer a little bit more, and a marked maturity keeps his thundering voice as powerful as ever. Wang Ge www.thebeijinger.com

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MUSIC BARS & CLUBS

ormerly signed to Modern Sky, Yunnan-based folkrock ensemble Kidney has steered away from the Beijing scene by releasing this epic sophomore album in Guangzhou. Introspection about the past and present emerges out of the sharp, poetic lyrics in this noble effort to elevate historical and social awareness. And the album rocks for its musical brilliance, too. “Highway Lights” (公路之光) is a reminder of everything great from Johnny Cash to Tom Waits – Liu Tao croons grufﬂy across the entire track while Cao Danping’s heavy guitar chords allude to scenarios that could be taken from any Wim Wenders ﬁlm. Similarly, “Minutes in World” (世界呢几分钟) takes a page from what Neil Young did for Jim Jarmusch’s steely-cold Dead Man. Get your hands on this unique independent release by calling 134 8869 2534 to arrange for a pick-up. Wang Ge

Catch 22 Tinchy Stryder

FEATURE

PAINTING THE MODERN SKY Evolution of a festival by Wang Ge

BARS & CLUBS MUSIC

ack when Beijinger Shen Lihui founded Britpop band Sober in 1988, he was already showing a distinction in character. Shifting away from the grunginess that marked the early rock scene, which mainly focused on punk and metal, he sought instead to emulate the neat elegance of alternative rock. With a similar philosophy, he founded Modern Sky Records in 1997, dedicated to promoting up-and-coming indie musicians. The label has since grown into the biggest indie label in China, with signed musicians ranging from pop idols to post-punk heroes. It was only a matter of time before Modern Sky followed in the vein of Midi and started organizing a music festival. Lo and behold, in October of 2007, the first Modern Sky Music Festival emerged in Haidian Park, with a line-up featuring international acts l i ke A mer ica n emo indies Yeah Yeah Yeahs and Hong Kong tweet-pop darlings My Little Airport. More signif icantly, it was a platform for local bands like Carsick Cars, Queen Sea Big Shark, Hedgehog and Casino Demon to grow into what they are today. In fact, it was at the 2007 festival that Hedgehog made their outdoor debut. “We were really nervous,” recalls lead singer and guitarist Zo. “It was our ﬁrst time playing in front of such a huge crowd … but it turned out much better than we thought. Once we got on stage, we were so focused on doing our own thing that we forgot about the audience, which is good because if you are dedicated to what you’re doing, the audience will naturally connect with your music.” Another regular at the festival has been electro-garage band Queen Sea Big Shark. “Sure, the sound quality can never be as good as in a live house,” says vocalist Fu Han, “but that doesn’t really matter because music is only one part of the festival – there are plenty of other things to do.”

If 2007 was about newness and excitement, 2008 was marked by the power of local veterans. A lack in big international names in the line-up meant the noticeable comeback of China’s punk forefather He Yong and folk poet Zhang Chu, who brought classics like “Sister” (姐姐), “Drum and Bell Tower” (钟鼓楼) and “Pretty Girl” (姑娘漂亮) to the Haidian Park skyline. The festival also showcased talent from beyond Beijing. Wuhan punksters AV Okubo and Xi’an’s electro-rock trio 24 Hours both performed in front of the Beijing crowd for the ﬁrst time; both have now been taken under the wing of Maybe Mars and are planning to release debut albums soon. As for 2009, it seems the festival is continuing to evolve, with the biggest change being the location moving from Haid ian to Chaoyang Park. Part of the reasoning was to include the festival under the larger Chaoya ng Internat io n a l Tou r i s m & Culture Festival, and consequently half of this year’s line-up will be international. In addition to the legendary Buzzcocks, Beijingers are also in for performances from Brighton indie quartet British Sea Power and Swedish punk rockers The (International) Noise Conspiracy. If the bands had a choice, Fu Han would get Japanese garage band Guitar Wolf and the French electro-duo Justice in the line-up. Zo, on the other hand, wants New Order, Blonde Redhead, Pulp and Gang of Four. “I’d also love to see Joy Division and Nirvana,” he says. “Unfortunately, that can’t happen.” Well, we can’t always get what we want. Not even rock stars.

“Music is only part of the festival. There are plenty of other things to do”

www.thebeijinger.com

PHOTOS: PROVIDED BY THE ORGANIZER

72 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

The 2009 Modern Sky Festival rocks Chaoyang Park on Oct 4-7. For more info, see listing, p70, or stay tuned to www.thebeijinger.com/blog. Also see http://festival.modernsky.com.

Q&A up. See photo, p70. RMB 200, RMB 150 (advance). 8pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Oct 17 American UnPop New musicians from NYC perform with local talents. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 9pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Monokino, Supermarket Yu Jin (formerly of Cobra) returns with her electro rock trio; local electronica veterans support. RMB 50. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Skarving Big swing band gets you up and dancing. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 10pm. 2 Kolegas (6436 8998) SUBS, Steely Heart, Rubber Phonograph Needle, Careless, The Offset: Spectacles Emo, garage and post-punk. RMB 60. 9pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Zhan Xiaoli Live Band Funky bass lines infused with jazz. Free. 9.30pm. Luce (8402 4417) Oct 18 G-Eleven, Candy Monster, Longjin, Lake Woebegon, Airbag Girls lead with jazz, reggae, metal and garage. RMB 40. 8.30pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Shochu Legion, The Flyx, Urbis, Cold Case, The Black Fox Punks of D-22 trash their neighbor’s place. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 9pm. 13 Club (8261 9267) Zhou Yunpeng Acoustic folk dynamite. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 9pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Oct 19 Bernie’s Lounge Dutch jazz blends afro-beats and Latin vibes. RMB 50. 10pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Oct 20 No Use For A Name, The Strikers, Noopinion, Sko Two decades of punk rock land in Beijing. RMB 180, RMB 150 (advance), RMB 480 (VIP). 8pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Oct 21 BM13, Funeral, Yes No Break, Tarasha, The CassAtte College bands play indie rock. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 7pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Remid, Zhuobian’er Beile, Youlan, My September, Zaotu, Metal Ball Indie pop bands keep things mild. RMB 20, RMB 10 (students). 8pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Oct 22 Children of Bodom Finnish metal heads greet Chinese fans. RMB 350-550, RMB 880 (VIP). 8pm. The Star Live (6425 5677) Jess Meider An album release party for the Beijing-based acoustic jazz guitarist. RMB 30. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Oct 23 Arch Enemy Swedish melodic metal turns up the fire. RMB 280-680. 8pm. The Star Live (6425 5677) Beyoncé The Grammy-winning R&B singer makes her first stop in Beijing. Tickets at www.piao.com.cn or 6417 7845. RMB 288-1,688. 8pm. Wukesong Arena (6828 6386) Nanwu, Fruit Salad Folk rock makes it mellow. RMB 30 (includes a drink). 9.30pm. What Bar (159 0123 6743) Subway To Sally, 01 German hard rock joined by Beijing theatric metal. RMB 70. 8.30pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711)

Return of the Punk The (International) Noise Conspiracy by Wang Ge

ack in 1999, Swedish punk rockers The (International) Noise Conspiracy came to China for their ﬁrst international tour and performed with the then up-and-coming P.K.14 in Shanghai. Ten years later, they hit the road again – and this time, they make it up to Beijing twice, with a stop at the Modern Sky Music Festival (Oct 4) in Chaoyang Park, followed by an encore at Yugong Yishan (Oct 6). Before the band’s arrival, tbj talks to bassist Inge Johansson to ﬁnd out what mischief they’ve been up to.

the Beijinger : How did you get into punk rock? Inge Johansson: By accident, and it both changed and destroyed my life completely. My major influences back then included The Clash and Dead Kennedys. I still love it as much as I did back then ... the attitude still defines my approach to life. tbj : Why China as your first international tour, back in 1999? IJ: We were young, crazy, and wanted to set a standard for our ambitions to challenge the world. We wanted to place our music and message in vital contexts and got connected to the Chinese punk underground. We borrowed money for plane tickets and went off for a great adventure that I will remember for the rest of my life.

“We were young, crazy, and wanted to challenge the world” tbj : What were the shows like back then? IJ: Very intense emotional moments – both for us and the audience. tbj : What are you expecting from your visit this time around? IJ: China had changed a lot when we went for the second time in 2005. I want to see how different it is now. And I can’t wait to hang out with P.K.14 and all the other great Chinese bands that are around. tbj : What has or hasn’t changed with T(I)NC in the past ten years? IJ: We have longer hair, play our instruments a little bit better, and we still like all the different kinds of tofu you’ve got in China. The (International) Noise Conspiracy performs at the Modern Sky Music Festival on Oct 4 and at Yugong Yishan on Oct 6. See listings, p70. www.thebeijinger.com

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BARS & CLUBS MUSIC

Lonely China Day Post-rock in action. RMB 50. 10pm. 2 Kolegas (6436 8998) Wu Hongfei and Happiness Street Ten years of happy indie rock. RMB 60, RMB 50 (advance), RMB 40 (students), RMB 120 (VIP). 9pm. The Star Live (6425 5677) Oct 10 Arrows Made of Desire, The Fire Balloon, Rolling Rolling, Wu & The Side Effects Blues turn classic rock out of garage. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 10pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Ibrahim Electric Danish trio explores musical borders with jazz, rock and funk. See photo, p70. RMB 40. 10pm. 2 Kolegas (6436 8998) Oct 11 Blue Fire Fire up the funk. RMB 30. 10pm. 13 Club (8261 9267) Gangzi Mongolian throat singing. RMB 30, RMB 20 (students). 9pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Ola Beijing! Bands from Macau jam with Brain Failure and Oliver. RMB 50, RMB 40 (advance). 8.30pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Oct 13 A4 Destroyer, IDH, Jackson Garland The RandomK(e) frontman jams with fellow experimentalists. RMB 30, RMB 20 (students). 8pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Huang Shaofeng & Friends Pop and rock combine forces to raise money for orphans via the New Hope Foundation. RMB 100, RMB 70 (advance). 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Oct 14 Freshly Ground South African folk rock with jazz and blues. RMB 100, RMB 70 (advance). 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Pierre Brahin Trio Take it easy with bebop, funk, jazz, bossa nova and French musette. Free. 9.30pm. Luce (8402 4417) Oct 15 Monokino Electro turns acoustic. RMB 30. 8.30pm. Hot Cat Club (6400 7868) Oct 16 24 Hours, The Offset: Spectacles Garage rockers 24 Hours release their debut, supported by the Velvet Underground emulators from Hong Kong. RMB 50. 10pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Asura, Yaksa Alternative rockers from Chengdu challenge the local dogs. RMB 60, RMB 50 (advance), RMB 120 (VIP). 9pm. The Star Live (6425 5677) Florent Briqué Septet Paying homage to Miles Davis with a bit of electronic pizzazz. Free (with invitation from Alliance Française, see www.afbeijing.org.cn). Time TBD. CD Jazz Cafe (6506 8288) Silent Resentment, Dengel, Toreador, Sad Until Death Gothic metal shows some decency. RMB 40 (includes a CD). 10pm. 13 Club (8261 9267) SUBS, Quality Beans, Buyi, Sweet Rock, Jelly Fish From seeds of emo springeth folk rock. RMB 50, RMB 30 (students). 10pm. 2 Kolegas (6436 8998) Trash Cat, Gum Bleeding, Hell City, Misandao, Early Bus Punks attack Gulou. RMB 50. 9pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Us3 Avant-garde jazz and hip-hop innovators from the UK stir things

MUSIC BARS & CLUBS

Q&A

Metal is Not Dead Skid Row takes the back street by Wang Ge

n Chinese, they are known as “Qiong Jie” (穷街), literally meaning “back street.” But Skid Row is no stranger to local fans: Songs like “18 and Life,” “I Remember You” and “Youth Gone Wild” helped many a die-hard metal fan get through their teenage angst. Before their October 2 show at The Star Live, bassist Rachel Bolan explains what he knows about China, the good and bad of the ’80s, and why metal isn’t dead.

the Beijinger : Have you been to China before? Rachel Bolan: No, but I received lots of e-mails from fans looking forward to us coming. I’m very excited! tbj : Name three words about China that come to your mind. RB: Wall. Food. Rock.

“The ’80s fashion was hideous” tbj : Is metal dead? RB: Metal is not dead. If it were, bands like us wouldn’t have the opportunity to go to China to play. I got the chance to see AC/DC and Judas Priest this year and they were both amazing! Metal is alive and well. tbj : What’s good about the ’80s? RB: There was no such thing as Pro Tools and Auto-Tune: A band had to be good. Don’t get me wrong – I think Pro Tools is an amazing and efficient way to record if used in the right way. But now there are so many bands that over-edit and fix too many flaws that it takes the realness out of the music.

tbj : Who’s your hero? RB: David Bowie. He is so incredibly talented and artistic. tbj : What does metal mean to you? RB: The best music in the world. It scares people, and that’s great. The legendary Skid Row rocks The Star Live on Oct 2. See listing, p70.

74 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

www.thebeijinger.com

Oct 29 Dada ante Portas Swedish pop rockers pay a visit. RMB 40. 9pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Kid Koala The Candadian DJ/turntablist extraordinaire drops one on Beijing. See Clubhouse, p62. RMB 50, RMB 30 (advance). 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Stranger Strange, Defense of the Ancients Progressive experimental. RMB 30, RMB 20 (students). 8pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Oct 30 Acid Live, Mike & Jade Local acid jazz troupe collaborates with jazzy New Yorkers. RMB 70, RMB 50 (advance). 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Dawanggang Band, Xiao He, Zhao Yiran, Wan Xiaoli, Li Tieqiao More noise experimentalists than you can wrap your head around (also see Oct 25 listing). RMB 80, RMB 60 (advance, students). 9pm. The Star Live (6425 5677) End of the World, Rustic, The Concussion Punk kids challenge hard rock dogs. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 10pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Maximilian Hecker The German pianist returns to Beijing. RMB 100-200, RMB 80 (students), RMB 280 (VIP). 8pm. National Library Concert Hall (6848 5462) S.I.F, Saw, Maul Badly, Hybrid, Velvet Highway, Chinatown, The Well Tempered Clavier, Multi-Ego Metal, at your service. RMB 40. 10pm. 13 Club (8261 9267) X-Doctor, Camel, Gray Alternative rock. RMB 30 (includes a drink). 9.30pm. What Bar (159 0123 6743) Zhao Yiran, Dongzi, Buyi, Lidong Band Ningxia collective sing their folk tunes. RMB 80, RMB 60 (students). 10pm. 2 Kolegas (6436 8998) Oct 31 D-22 Halloween Party: Punk Rock KTV Karaoke can be cool. For once. RMB 30, RMB 20 (students). 10pm. D-22 (6265 3177) DH & Chinese Hellcats, Wu & The Side Effects, Ziyo, YACHT Rockabilly swing funks it up with blues and indie rock. RMB 60, RMB 50 (students). 10pm. 2 Kolegas (6436 8998) Qin Xuan, Pacalolo, The Double Harvestman Brit-pop and easy-listening electronica. RMB 30 (includes a drink). 9.30pm. What Bar (159 0123 6743) Section 6 Hip-hop? Hooray. RMB 30. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Every Thu Liu Yue Guitar Trio Jazz lines read by classic guitar. Free. 9.30pm. East Shore Live Jazz Cafe (8403 2131) Every Fri Nathaniel Gao Jazz Quartet Sax it up with neo-jazz. Free. 10pm. East Shore Live Jazz Cafe (8403 2131) Every Sat Liu Yuan Saxophone Quartet China’s jazz forefather keeps Houhai smooth. Free. 10pm. East Shore Live Jazz Cafe (8403 2131) Every Sun Moreno Donadel Trio Italian pianist collaborates with a few Beijingers. Free. 9.30pm. East Shore Live Jazz Cafe (8403 2131)

PHOTO: PROVIDED BY THE ORGANIZER

tbj : What’s bad about the ’80s? RB: The ’80s fashion was hideous.

Wang Yue (Gia), Ding Ke The former Hang On The Box punk diva releases her solo debut. RMB 60, RMB 50 (advance, students). 8.30pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Oct 23-24 The Midi Festival Tenth Anniversary It’s back to school time! Join a class of first-rate musicians – Miserable Faith, Muma & Third Party, The Verse, CMCB, Brain Failure, Suffocation, Twisted Machine, AK-47 and SUBS – as they celebrate ten years of Midi Festivals. RMB 100 (per day), RMB 150 (two days). 6pm-1am (Oct 23), 3pm-midnight (Oct 24). 706 Factory House (5130 5569) Oct 24 Alt Senior, Oliver, Saving Molly, The Ghost Spardac Brit-pop and indie rock tidy up. RMB 60, RMB 40 (advance). 8.30pm. MAO Livehouse (6402 5080) Casino Demon, The Ghost Spardic, Careless A garage/pop rock showdown. RMB 50, RMB 40 (students). 10pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Convenience Store, Peng Lei, Peng Tan Local Brit-pop band performs their last show of the year with the New Pants’ frontman on support. RMB 80, RMB 50 (advance). 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Rolling Rolling, Candy Monster, Steely Heart, The Fire Balloon Garage rockers make a noisy mess. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 10pm. 2 Kolegas (6436 8998) The Falling, Last Chance of Youth, Surprise, Shentou, Chaine Band Thrash metal heads bang their noggins till dawn. RMB 40. 10pm. 13 Club (8261 9267) Wu Kejia & Gao Bo, Liu Yusi Covers in acoustic. RMB 30 (includes a drink). 9.30pm. What Bar (159 0123 6743) Oct 25 Dawanggang Band, Xiao He Uygur and Tibetan folk music performed with a video screening (also see Oct 30 listing). RMB 60, RMB 50 (advance, students). 9pm. The Star Live (6425 5677) Nanwu, YUYU’s Mars Party, Xue Zhonghua & Band, Shishahai Folk rock and electronica combine forces. RMB 40. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Zhang Qianqian Qinghai folk queen takes the stage. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 9pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Oct 26 MIT, Super 700 Indie pop straight out of Berlin. RMB 50. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Oct 27 Letzte Instanz The folksy gothic rock band turns on the charm. RMB 50. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Fat City, Sister Oriented, Me Too Members of The Offset: Spectacles jam with a new ambient quartet. RMB 30, RMB 20 (students). 8pm. D-22 (6265 3177) Oct 28 Carsten Nicolai German electronica goes synesthetic. Free. 9pm. Yugong Yishan (6404 2711) Jess Meider Acoustic in an intimate setting. Free. 9.30pm. Luce (8402 4417) Sauce Rain, Green Tea, Poshangcun Alternative rock. RMB 40, RMB 30 (students). 10pm. D-22 (6265 3177)

ARTS & CULTURE ART

P76 ART P80 IN PRINT & CINEMA P85 STAGE www.thebeijinger.com October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 75 Cheng Ran's Midnight Museum never opens. See event listing, p76; photo courtesy of UCCA thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;smags

rt A Until Nov 9: Martin Parr ... brings a touch of color to Beijing. See listing, p77.

ART

t’s anniversary season – for this magazine, and for the big one, 60 years of the People’s Republic of China. Chinese contemporary art has, of course, already marked two anniversaries of its own this year – last month celebrating 30 years since the Stars group mounted the first contemporary art exhibition in China in September 1979, and back in February when alumni of the China/Avant-Garde exhibition of 1989 gathered to remember the historic show that first put the Chinese avant-garde on the map. Falling during the post-Global-Financial-Crisis calm, these anniversaries provoked contemplation of where we are and how far we’ve come and as we look around again this month the conclusion is a surprisingly optimistic one. The most striking thing about the scene as we move into autumn is how many signs of life there are. At one extreme is the re-opening of Pace Beijing after its long post-Olympics hibernation. The local offshoot of the New York-based über-gallery is playing its strong suit with a major show of new works by Zhang Xiaogang (see 3 to See, p77). At the other extreme, a group of 12 Chinese and international artists are this month pitching a tent at the gate of 798 to display their wares (see Feature, p78). And for those who value an international stamp of approval, there’s ample evidence this month that Beijing is firmly on the world art map, with shows by international art stars Antony Gormley (see 3 to See, p77) and Martin Parr (see listing, p77). As for the market, though, it’s still in the doldrums and September’s Shanghai Art Fair and ShContemporary were both muted affairs, with international participation way down from previous years. But international interest in China, thankfully, goes beyond the market and in Frankfurt the SHIRN Kunsthalle is currently showing for the first time in the West one of the most influential works of Chinese modern art. Back in 1965, a group of students and teachers from the Sichuan Fine Arts Institute in Chongqing began work on a massive group of sculptures entitled Rent Collection Courtyard. They created one hundred life-size figures and with them fashioned striking tableaux of rural exploitation in pre-revolutionary China. This work entered the collective consciousness of Chinese people over the next ten years as the work was copied and shown throughout the country. In recent years, contemporary artists as diverse as Cai Guo-Qiang and Li Zhangyang have created works based on the 45-year-old sculptures, Li famously modeling his exploited peasants and merciless landlords with faces taken straight from today’s contemporary art players. It’s nice to have this reminder in this anniversary year that contemporary culture draws on a deep history, both modern and ancient, so let’s get out and celebrate that this month. Madeleine O’Dea

76 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

www.thebeijinger.com

All event listings are accurate at time of press and subject to change

For venue details, see directories, p79 Send events to listings@thebeijinger.com by

NEW OPENINGS Oct 9-11, 16-18 Cou Huo Twelve artists, both Chinese and international, create work around the theme of “making do.” The works will be displayed in a tent, erected first at the south gate of 798, and then at Solana shopping mall. See Feature, p78. Oct 10, 14 Urban Carpets For one day only at different hutong locations around Beijing, a novel homage to Beijing’s traditional streets. For each location a carpet has been embroidered recording the maze of streets that make up particular hutong areas. Visit www.instanthutong. com/news.htm for information on locations and other associated activities. Oct 10-Feb 28 Antony Gormley: Another Singularity Details of this show are still scant as we go to press, but given Gormley’s eminence in international contemporary art, this exhibition should be unmissable. On opening day, Gormley will give a presentation at the UCCA. See 3 to See, p77. Galleria Continua (5978 9505)

ONGOING SHOWS Until Oct 5 Eko Nugroho Solo Exhibition Indonesian artist Nugroho works with shadows in his latest exhibition. Drawing on the traditions of the puppetry of his native country, he creates collaborative shadow puppet shows, which allow him to play with light and dark, the real and the unreal. This work further develops an interest in fantasy that earlier saw him creating works that fused his own body with elements such as UFOs and machines. Pékin Fine Arts (5127 3220) Until Oct 6 Nick Otto: Smoke and Light Otto has been carving out a career as a photojournalist in Beijing for the last five years but it’s a poet’s eye he brings to these images of daily life in China rather than a newsman’s. An everyday scene of worshippers burning incense, for example, takes on a hallucinatory quality as people are lost in the swirl of smoke. CNEX Saloon Café (8721 5576) Until Oct 8 Guo Gongwei: Things Young Sichuan artist Guo Gongwei is fascinated by things, things that can seem quite banal (like paper cups) or creepy (like specimens in jars). These he renders on canvas in pale “still lives” where even the worn-down bristles of a toothbrush can assume a kind of beauty. Chambers Fine Art (5127 3298) Until Oct 10 Charity Photography Exhibition: Luna Zhang The late photographer Luna Zhang was a long-time friend and freelancer to the Beijinger and our sister magazine Agenda, as well as a friend to Beijing musicians and many others. This exhibition of some of the work she has done over the past seven years. Photos available for purchase, with all proceeds going to her family. Yugong Yishan (136 7109 4537)

Oct 12

Until Oct 11 Jin Shan: Naked Ape Taking his cue from zoologist Desmond Morris’ famous description of humans, Jin creates paintings that reflect on our basically animal nature. His oils are bold, bright and disturbing. Platform China (6432 0169) Cheng Ran and Jiang Pengyi: Immersion and Distance Curated by Yang Fudong. Cheng Ran presents his “Midnight Museum,” an installation that never opens but emits the occasional plume of smoke from its brightly lit walls, while Jiang brings us his constructed photographs: “Unregistered City, Forgot the Password?” UCCA (8459 9269) Until Oct 15 Chen Qi: 1963 Eminent print artist Chen Qi has long been admired for his work utilizing the ancient technique of water-based woodblock printing. Here he brings us a massive work, measuring some 7.8 meters high and 3.35 meters long, created using 96 woodblocks and nine color applications, a gorgeous depiction of surging water. Amelie Gallery (5978 9698) Cube: From Belgium to China Ten up-and-coming photographers, five each from Belgium and China, bring their distinctive take on their homelands to Sanlitun. The works will be displayed inside 30 light boxes set up in the open air, allowing us to wander amongst their diverse visions of home. See photo, p77. The Village at Sanlitun South (8580 6766 x 808) Until Oct 18 Du Zhenjun: Virtual Politics Paris-based pioneering multimedia artist Du Zhenjun brings his interactive video installations to Beijing. His work is oft-noted to have a cruel streak and titles like Human Cage and Shark Man might give you pause, but this exhibition should be as fascinating as it is troubling. Tang Contemporary (6436 3518) Young Artists Invitational Curator Bao Dong introduces us to some of the new voices in Chinese contemporary art. More than 40 artists are featured, chosen from more than 800 submissions. 798 Originality Square (5978 9880) Zhang Ding: Law Zhang brings us his fantastical multimedia installations, all reflecting on the “relationship between controlled and uncontrolled power.” The large-scale works incorporate trees as well as 700 light bulbs in a work which makes us wonder whether his art creates more heat than light. ShanghART (6432 3202) Until Oct 19 Caroline Hands: Dream of Colour Hands’ canvases revel in color and movement. Scenes from opera, dreams of bucolic life and Chagalllike visions of peace on earth crowd this vivid exhibition. XYZ Gallery (8459 9299) Liu Heung Shing: Seek Truth from Facts Pulitzer prize-winning photojournalist Liu Heung Shing took the photographs in this exhibition between 1976 and 2003, a time of extraordinary change in China. Taking ordinary life as his subject, he allows the broader themes to

3 TO SEE Martin Parr As a member of the Magnum photo agency for 15 years, Parr has pursued a singular course. His works, in highly saturated color, critique social life as it is lived in the developed world. Here he presents work from famous series such as his portrait of British holiday resort Brighton, “Last Resort” and “Bored Couples.” Paris-Beijing Photo Gallery (5978 9262) The Next Generation of Artists from Hangzhou Hangzhou, home to the prestigious China Academy of Art, has replaced Sichuan as the place to look for the Next Big Thing, not surprising given the academy has leading artists like master video maker Zhang Peili and conceptual artist Qiu Zhijie on their payroll. This show brings us artists from hot young painter Li Qing to Wu Junyong, whose recent video work has drawn on traditional shadow puppetry. F2 Gallery (6432 8831) Until Nov 15 Zhang Xiaogang: The Records This exhibition by Zhang Xiaogang has been much anticipated. See 3 to See, right. Pace Beijing (5978 9781) Until Nov 22 Cartier Treasure: King of Jewelers 346 items were selected for this exhibition from more than 1,360 in the Cartier Collection. Jewelry, watches and accessories tell the Cartier story from its founding in 1847 to the 1970s. Palace Museum (6513 2255, 8511 7099) Until Nov 28 Herbert Beck Watercolors: Faces of the World At 89, Beck is still producing the vibrant watercolors that have been the hallmark of his practice for seven decades. Influenced by the German Expressionist Emil Nolde, whom he knew, Beck has developed a passionate approach to the use of color. At the heart of this exhibition are his Faces of the World, a series of stylized portraits assembled into larger works which aim to represent all the peoples of the world. ArtMia (8457 4550/2145) Until Dec 20 Ai Weiwei: World Map Ai Weiwei brings his distinctive wit and aesthetics to 798. A map of the world made of cloth is a centerpiece, but more interesting is his “Fairytale” installation. The latter is based on a piece of art meets social engineering which was his contribution to the 2007 Documenta festival in Kassel Germany, where he transported 1001 Chinese citizens to the city to see and be seen. Faurschou Gallery (8459 9316)

Until Oct 15: Cube: From Belgium to China The long and winding road leads to Sanlitun. See listing, p76.

Antony Gormley: Another Singularity

ritish sculptor Gormley is a leading contemporary art figure, so it’s no risk to make this show one to see. Details were scant at press time, leaving us contemplating his previous work for clues. Gormley’s defining work has been created in the open air, which makes the idea of him confined to a gallery space intriguing. He recently utilized an empty plinth in London’s Trafalgar Square so that a series of ordinary citizens could spend an hour each as living sculptures, a work that proved incredibly popular. But an earlier experiment with group participation, Asian Field (2006), was controversial. Featuring 180,000 clay figurines crafted by 350 Chinese villagers in five days from 100 tons of red clay, it left viewers debating whether Gormley could truly be deemed the creator of the work. Opening day provides an opportunity to debate the man himself, when Gormley appears at the UCCA. Madeleine O’Dea Antony Gormley’s “Another Singularity” runs from Oct 10-Feb 28 at Galleria Continua (5978 9505)

He Yunchang: The Wings of Performance

erformance artist He Yunchang’s work is not for the faint-hearted. The centerpiece of this show, which includes performance, sculpture, photography, video and painting, is a necklace made out of the artist’s own rib – which he had removed in a medically unnecessary operation in August 2008. The idea of fashioning a new creation out of one man’s rib inevitably evokes biblical allusions and there is something almost messianic about the way He Yunchang has pursued his work as a performance artist, pushing to extremes the barriers of what it is possible to do with his body. His previously most memorable work found him encased in concrete for 24 hours before being chiseled out and the image of He as he broke free is one of the most enduring in Chinese contemporary art, encapsulating the euphoria of freedom. This is darker work, but no less compelling. Madeleine O’Dea He Yunchang’s “The Wings of Performance runs until Oct 31 at Galerie Urs Meile (6433 3393)

Zhang Xiaogang: The Records

hang’s eminence in Chinese contemporary art makes this exhibition, like Gormley’s, a must-see. Here he goes beyond paint on canvas to create work on steel plates, as well as installation and sculpture. In recent years he has moved away from the soulful portraits that made his name to sad interiors that seem to summon a youth spent in loneliness and contemplation and moody landscapes of monumental squares, construction sites, ships and dams. Most intriguingly, he has of late created a series of diary-like works, where photos chosen from personal or national history are adorned by his writings on their signiﬁcance to him. These have in turn been developed into paintings, where the texts vie with the images for our attention. A chance to see where one of Chinese contemporary art’s leading ﬁgures is heading now. Madeleine O’Dea Zhang Xiaogang’s “The Records” runs until Nov 15 at Pace Beijing (5978 9781) www.thebeijinger.com

October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 77 that’smags

ART

emerge rather than dominate. Three Shadows Photography Art Centre (6432 2663, 6431 9063) Until Oct 29 Traces: Liu Xiaodong This exhibition brings us the detritus of an artist’s work – all the sketches, preliminary work, notes, references that are behind a finished work. In this case the artist is eminent painter Liu Xiaodong, so take this opportunity to look inside his mind. Beijing Angle Modern Art (6561 8327) Until Oct 31 He Yunchang: The Wings of Performance Performance artist He Yunchang’s work is not for the faint-hearted. See 3 to See, right. Galerie Urs Meile (6433 3393) Until Nov 7 Miao Xiaochun: Index Miao Xiaochun’s latest work attempts to capture Beijing in a series of 360-degree panoramic shots taken at different longitudes and latitudes of the city over an 18-month period. Miao used up thousands of rolls of film in this project of documentation, where the point of view would be dictated by points on the map rather than his own inclinations. White Space (8456 2054) Until Nov 8 Bard Breivik: Listen Norwegian sculptor Breivik aims “to test the absolute limit of a given material” whether it be wood, stone, plastic or bronze. Here he shows works that range from the purely abstract through to the disturbingly concrete (a human ear rendered in bronze). Imagine Gallery (6438 5747) James Rosenquist: Speed of Light US artist Rosenquist is most widely known for his large-scale canvases riffing on American popular culture, but here he presents a series of lithographs inspired by his contemplation of Einstein’s study of the speed of light. These dazzling works take the point of view of a passenger in a speeding car in his own study of relativity. DaFeng Art Gallery (5978 9468) Until Nov 9 Ma Qiusha ’80s-born artist Ma Qiusha embodies what has become an increasing trend in Chinese contemporary art, a move towards the personal and the intimate and away from the pop and the political. Her works seek to engage the audience with their earnest expression of the complexities of intimacy, relationships and daily life for a young woman in today’s China. Beijing Commune (8456 2862)

FEATURE

POP-P-UP ART RT TWELVE ARTISTS IN A TENT

ART

by Jennifer Conrad

78 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

“There’s a larger context for this concept in Beijing. A lot of things spring from nowhere, and don’t always stand up to scrutiny,” says Michael Zheng, a participating artist who splits his time between Beijing and San Francisco. “There’s a seeming compromise, but nonetheless you achieve things. China probably wouldn’t have gotten so far if things weren’t done this way.”

“We don’t think of it as an exhibition, but an event in a tent” The objects on display – and the moving exhibition – reﬂect this spirit, centered on the notion that “through a seemingly casual approach, it ends up interesting,” says Zheng. His work depicts the bottom portion of a doorway leading to a carpet with shadows cast by unseen objects and is based on a memory he can’t place. Chilean duo nicoykatiushka present a video installation called “Genograma,” in which 12 screens show their family members going to bed at the same time. “A genogram is a pictorial display of a person’s family relationships and medical history,” they explain. “It goes beyond a traditional family tree by allowing the user to visualize hereditary patterns and psychological factors that punctuate relationships.” They add that the couhuo nature of the exhibition – especially the limits of a non-traditional space – affected the creation of the piece. “We have been traveling with the tapes for a while and never

www.thebeijinger.com

found the right moment to put the piece together. Under this improvised or makeshift exhibition, we believe this is a perfect moment to put together the pieces.” Rutherford Chang, an American artist working in Beijing, presents a sound installation using loudspeakers bought or bartered from their previous owners. The speakers retain the original recordings, which hawk items like newspapers and bottled water. Another American, Johnston Foster, uses plastic items bought at 99-cent stores to form a colorful rainbow made from consumer junk. Giant skulls anchor the rainbow at each end. “We don’t think of it as an exhibition, but an event in a tent,” says Katherine Don, whose Red Box Studio organized the traveling event. The choice of an unconventional venue is intended to create an experience different from shows in institutions and commercial galleries. “In the last couple of years, when you talk to artists, it’s like, ‘How much do you sell? How much do you make?’” says Chen. Thus, presenting outside of the gallery system and showing works that aren’t meant to be sold or collected offers a chance to change that vibe. Don adds, “The focus of the exhibition is on the space and the experience it creates for the viewer. We want to take that next step and contribute something different to the art landscape.” “Cou Huo” makes its ﬁrst stop in the parking lot by the south gate of the 798 (Oct 9-11). Its second stop will be at Solana Mall (Oct 16-18). The third location was still TBD at time of press. For updates and more info, visit www.nicouhuoma.com.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF RED BOX STUDIO

n a city where new buildings spring up seemingly overnight and an entire block can be transformed in the course of a week, the organizers behind “Cou Huo” are adding one more insta-structure to the urban landscape. Couhuo 凑合 translates into English as “makeshift” or “to improvise” – it connotes a hasty way of doing things. At its best, the organizers of this exhibition believe, it’s about the act of getting things accomplished in the only way possible. “Cou huo is a positive energy,” says Chen Xinpeng, the curator and a local mixed-media artist. “It’s how we get our shit done. “Look at this,” he says, gesturing towards the expanse of Guomao and Soho New Town, visible from the ofﬁce where we met, near the Today Art Museum. “Five, ten years ago, this was nothing.” Similarly, “Cou Huo” appears to pop up from nowhere. The exhibition is housed in an inﬂatable gold 20sqm tent that will travel to three locations around Beijing on weekends throughout the month. Neville Mars, the Beijing-based architect who founded the Dynamic City Foundation, consulted on the tent design. Chen commissioned 12 works to address the concept of couhuo. The artists are a mix of Chinese and foreigners – from Austria, Chile, Scotland, Switzerland and the US – who have a connection to the Beijing art scene. The outdoor tent setting creates some parameters: The works include installations, videos and sculptures, but no paintings or delicate pieces that can’t stand up to the elements.

For a comprehensive directory, see www.thebeijinger.com GALLERIES 706 Space Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8251 2909) 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号大山子798艺术区 798 Originality Square Dashanzi art district. 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (next to 706 Space) 潮阳区酒仙桥路2号798大山子(706厂旁边) 798 Photo Gallery Daily 10am-6pm. Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6438 1784, 6437 5284) www.798photogallery.cn 百年印象摄影画廊, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区 Amelie Gallery and Creative Studio Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. 797 East Street, Dashanzi Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (5978 9698, jessica@longyibang.com) 龙艺榜, 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号798艺术区797东街 Anni Art Dashanzi art district, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8456 7783) 安妮画廊, 朝阳区酒仙桥路798 Arario Beijing Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Inside Chaoyang Liquor Factory, Beihuqu, Anwaibeiyuan, Chaoyang District. (5202 3800) www.arariobeijing.com 朝阳区安外北苑北湖渠朝阳酒艺术园 Arrow Factory 38 Jianchang Hutong (Off Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District. www. arrowfactory.org.cn 箭厂空间, 东城区箭厂胡同38号（国子监街内） Artist Village Gallery Daily 9am-midnight. North of Rencun, Song Village, Tong County, Tongzhou District. (6959 8343, 139 0124 4283) www.artistvillagegallery.com 宋庄画家村画廊, 通州区宋庄任村北一号

Beijing Art Now Gallery (BANG) Tue-Sun noon-6pm. Bldg E,Red Yard No.1, Caochangdi, Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang District. (5127 3292) www.beijingartnow.com 现在画廊, 朝阳区崔各庄草场地红1号院E座 Beijing Commune Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8456 2862, lenglin@yahoo.com) www.beijingcommune.com 北京公社, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号大山子798艺术区 Beijing Tokyo Art Projects Tue-Sun 10am6.30pm. Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8457 3245) www.tokyo-gallery.com 北京东京艺术工程, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区 Boers-Li Gallery Tue-Sun 10am-6.30pm. Compound 8A, Airport Service Road, Caochangdi, Chaoyang District. (6432 2620, info@boersligallery.com) www.boersligallery.com 朝阳区机场辅路草场地甲8号院 Central Academy of Fine Arts Museum Tue-Sun 9.30am-5.30pm. No.8 Hujiadi Nan Jie, Chaoyang District. (6477 1575) www. cafamuseum.org 中央美院美术馆, 朝阳区花家地南街8号 Chambers Fine Art Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Red No.1-D, Caochangdi, Chaoyang District. (5127 3298, info@chambersfineart. com.cn) www.chambersfineart.com.cn 前波画廊, 朝阳区草场地红一号D座 Chen Ling Hui Contemporary Space Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. 1) A1, Beigao, Cuigezhuang Xiang, Chaoyang District. (6431 8830, celiali@chenlinghui.com); 2) Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6435 9665, celiali@chenlinghui.com) www.chenlinghui.com 陈绫蕙当代艺术中心, 1) 朝阳区崔各庄乡北皋甲1号; 2) 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号大山子艺术区 China Art Archives and Warehouse WedSun 1-6pm, or by appointment. Opposite the Nangao Police Station,Caochangdi, (take the Airport Service road one exit past Wuhuan Lu, then take the first right past the Chang Jian Driving School), Chaoyang District. (8456 5152/5153, mail@caaw.com.cn) www.archivesandwarehouse.com 艺术文化仓库, 朝阳区机场辅路草场地村南皋派出所对面(机场辅路由南往北五环外第一个路口)

Linda Gallery Daily 10am-6pm. Dashanzi art district, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8459 9235, lindagallery. beijing@yahoo.com) 林大798当代艺术馆, 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号大山子艺术区

China Blue Gallery Daily 9.30am-5.30pm. 2-3/F, Bldg 7, Ego Center, 16A Baiziwan Lu (just south of Dawanglu subway station), Chaoyang District. (8774 6332/6339, chinabluegallery@yahoo.com.cn) www. chinabluegallery.com 环碧堂画廊, 朝阳区百子湾路甲16号易构空间7号楼2-3层

Long March Space Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (5978 9768, lm@longmarchspace.com) www.longmarchspace.com 长征空间, 朝阳区大山子艺术区

China Visual Arts Center Tue-Sun 10am6pm. Zone D, Artistic Area,1, Hegezhuang Village,Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang District. (137 0107 8774, info@chinavarts.com) www.chinavarts.com 威诺里萨艺术中心, 朝阳区崔各庄乡何各庄村一号地艺术园区D区 C-Space Tue-Sun 11am-6pm. C1 and C2, Red No.1,Caochangdi, Chaoyang District. (5127 3248, info@c-spacebeijing.com) www.c-spacebeijing.com C-空间, 朝阳区草场地艺术区红1号C1，C2座 DAC Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. No E52, Dashanzi Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (5978 9096) www.dacorg.cn 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区E52号 Dafeng Art Gallery Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 1) Dashanzi art district (just past Dimensions Art Center and 3+3 Gallery), 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6433 7317); 2) 241 Beijie, Xiaopu Cun, Songzhuang Artists Village, Tongzhou District. 大风画廊, 1) 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区南边; 2) 通州区宋庄画家村小堡村北街241号 Eastlink Gallery Tue-Sun 10am-5.30pm. L314-319, Bldg 3, Europlaza, 99 Yuxiang Lu, Tianzhu Town, Shunyi District. (135 2415 2848) www.eastlinkgallery.cn 顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号欧陆广场3楼L314-319 F2 Wed-Sun 10am-6pm. 319 Caochangdi, Chaoyang District. (6432 8831) www. f2gallery.com F2画廊, 朝阳区朝阳区草场地319号 Fake Space Rm 111, Bldg 3B, Pingod (North Zone), 32, Baiziwan Lu (next to Today Art Museum), Chaoyang District. (5826 3132) 朝阳区百子湾32号苹果社区北区 3B-0111（今日美术馆旁） Faurschou Gallery Beijing Tue-Sun 10am6pm. Dashanzi art district, 4, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8459 9316/14) www.faurschou.com 林冠画廊, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号大山子艺术区 Galerie Urs Meile, Lucerne-Beijing Tue-Sun 11am-6.30pm. 104 Caochangdi Village (take the airport service road north past the fifth Ring Road, turn right at the China Film Museum billboard and continue to the traffic light. At the light, veer right onto a slanted road and continue heading right. The gallery is the two-story gray building on the left), Chaoyang District. (6433 3393, fax 6433 0203) www. galerieursmeile.com 麦勒画廊, 朝阳区草场地村104号 Galleria Continua Tue-Sun 11am-6pm. Dashanzi art district, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (5978 9505) www.galleriacontinua.com 常青画廊, 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号798大山子艺术区 Gallery Artside Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8459 9335/9336, beijing@artside.org) www.artside.org 北京阿特塞帝画廊, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号大山子艺术区 Imagine Gallery Tues-Sun, 10:30am5:30pm. No 8 Feijiacun Yishu Gongzuoshi, Feijiacun, Laiguangying Donglu, Chaoyang District. (64385747 / 13910917965, laetitia.gauden@imaginegallery.com) www.imagine-gallery.com 想象画廊, 朝阳区来广营东路同达生态园对面费家村东路8号艺术工作室

offiCina Tue-Sun noon-7pm. Dashanzi art district, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (5978 9462) www.officinaltd. com 意中艺术工作室, 朝阳区酒仙路2号大山子艺术区

taikangtopspace.com 泰康顶层空间, 1) 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号; 2) 朝阳区复兴门内大街 156号，泰康人寿大厦11层 Tang Contemporary Gallery Tue-Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. Dashanzi art district, 2 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District. (6436 3518/3658, info@tangcontemporary.com) www.tangcontemporary.com 当代唐人艺术中心, 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号, 大山子艺术区 Three Shadows Photography Art Centre Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 155 East End Art, Caochangdi Village (Next to Platform China), Chaoyang District. (6432 2663) www. threeshadows.cn 三影堂摄影艺术中心, 朝阳区草场地艺术东区155号(站台中国旁)

Pace Beijing Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号大山子艺术区

Today Art Museum Daily 9am-5pm. Pingod Space, 32 Baiziwan Lu, Chaoyang District. (5862 1100) www.todayartmuseum.com 今日美术馆, 朝阳区百子湾路32号

Paris-Beijing Photo Gallery Daily, 10am6pm. Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (5978 9262 / 3, pbphotogallery@gmail.com, www.parisbeijingphotogallery.com) 巴黎北京摄影空间, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区

TS1 Gallery Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Dashanzi art district, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6433 1588, mailto: ts1beijing@gmail.com) www.ts1.com. cn 壹空间画廊, 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号大山子艺术区

Pekin Fine Arts Wed-Sun 10am-6pm. 241,Caochangdi, Cuigezhuang,, Chaoyang District. (5127 3220) www.pekinfinearts.com 艺门画廊, 朝阳区崔各庄乡草场地村241号

Wall Art Museum 10am- 7pm. 34 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (6564 8233 ext 802, ccad@aer.net.cn) wwww. wallartmuseum.com 墙美术馆, 朝阳区东三环中路34号

PKM Gallery Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 46-C Caochangdi, Chaoyang District. (8456 7429) www.pkmgallery.com 北京朴敬美画廊, 朝阳区草场地46号C

Wan Fung Art Gallery Mon noon-6pm, Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. 136 Nanchizi Dajie, Dongcheng District. (8523 3320) www. wanfung.com.cn 云峰画苑, 东城区南池子大街136号

Platform China Tue-Sun 11am-6pm. 3191 East End Art (Zone A), Caochangdi Village (Take the Airport Service road one exit past Wuhuan Lu, take the first right and turn north on the road opposite the Chang Jian Driving School), Chaoyang District. (6432 0169/0091, info@platformchina.org) www.platformchina.org 站台中国当代艺术机构, 朝阳区草场地村319-1 艺术东区A区内 (机场辅路由南往北五环外第一个路口路东, 长建驾校对面路口) Primo Marella Gallery Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. N. C01 Beigao, Cuigezhuang Country, Chaoyang District. (6433 4055) www. marellabeijing.com 朝阳区崔各庄乡北皋甲C01号 Red Gate Gallery Daily 10am-5pm. Levels 1 and 4, Dongbianmen Watchtower Chongwenmen, Chongwen District. (6525 1005) www.redgategallery.com 红门画廊, 崇文区东便门角楼 Red Star Gallery Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Dashanzi art district, 2, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6437 0781, redstar. gallery@gmail.com) www.chinaredstargallery.com 红星画廊, 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号大山子艺术区 Sanshang Art Beijing Space Tue-Sun 9.30am- 6pm. 46 Caochangdi, art district D, Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang District. (6431 0085/38, sanshang.bj@3sunart.com) 三尚艺术北京空间, 朝阳区崔各庄草场地46号 (艺术D区) ShanghART Beijing Tue-Sun 11am-6pm. 261 Caochangdi, Chaoyang District. (6432 3202) www.shanghartgallery.com 香格纳北京, 朝阳区草场地261号 Soka Art Centre/Soka Modern Tue-Sun 10am-9pm. Rm 101, Bldg B, Tianhai Shangwu Dasha, 107 Dongsi Beidajie, Dongcheng District. (8401 2377) www. soka-art.com 索卡(北京)艺术中心, 东城区东四北大街107号天海商务大厦B座101房 Star Gallery Tue-Sun 11am-6pm. Dashanzi art district, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu (inside 3818 Cool Gallery warehouse), Chaoyang District. (5978 9224) www.stargallery. cn 星空间艺术中心, 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院内,3818库

Instituto Cervantes 1A Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (5879 9666) www.pekin.cervantes.es 北京塞万提斯学院, 朝阳区工体南路甲1号

SZ Art Center Tue-Sun 10am-6.30pm. Dashanzi art district, 4, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (5978 9213) www.szartcenter.com 圣之空间艺术中心, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号大山子艺术区

Keumsan Gallery Tue-Sun 11am-6pm. B-0024 Dashanzi Huantienei art district, Chaoyang District. (6436 6176, beijingqinshan@yahoo.com.cn) www. chinakeumsan.com 琴山画廊, 朝阳区大山子环铁内艺术城B0024

Taikang Top Space Call for hours. 1) 2, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6438 8443); 2) 11/F, Taikang Life Bldg.156, Fuxingmennei Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6642 9988 ext 8302, 138 0132 6510) www.

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White Space Beijing Tue-Sun noon-6pm. Airport Service Road, No. 255 Caochangdi, Chaoyang District. (8456 2054) www.alexanderochs-galleries.de 空白空间, 朝阳区机场辅路草场地255号 Xin Dong Cheng Space For Contemporary Art 1) Daily 10am-5pm. Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6433 4579); 2) Chaoyang Liquor Factory, Beihuqu Jie, Anwaibeiyuan, Chaoyang District. (5202 3868) www.chengxindong. com 程昕东国际当代艺术空间, 1) 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区; 2) 朝阳区安外北苑北湖渠朝阳区酿酒厂内 XYZ Gallery Daily 10.30am- 6.30pm. Dashanzi Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8459 9299) 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号大山子艺术区 Yan Club Arts Centre Daily 10am-6pm. Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (5978 9172) www.yanclub.com 仁画廊, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区

MUSEUMS Beijing World Art Museum Daily 9am- 6pm. 9A Fuxing Lu, Haidian District. (5980 2222) www.worldartmuseum.cn 中华世纪坛世界艺术馆, 海淀区复兴路甲9号 Capital Museum Tue-Sun 9am-5pm. 16 Fuxingmenwai Dajie, Xicheng District. (6337 0491/2) www.capitalmuseum.org.cn 首都博物馆, 西城区复兴门外大街 16号 Iberia Center for Contemporary Art TueSun 10am-6pm. Dashanzi art district, 4, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (5978 9530, info@iberiart.org) www.iberiart.org 伊比利亚当代艺术中心, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号大山子艺术区 Imperial City Art Museum Tue-Sun 10am5.30pm. 9 Changpuheyan, Dongcheng District. (8511 5104) 皇城艺术馆, 东城区菖蒲河沿9号 National Art Museum of China Daily 9am4pm. 1 Wusi Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6401 2252/7076) www.namoc.org 中国美术馆, 东城区五四大街1号 The Palace Museum Daily 8.30am-4pm. Forbidden City, 4 Jingshan Qianjie, Xicheng District. (6513 2255, 8511 7099) www.dpm.org.cn 故宫博物院, 西城区景山前街4号 Ullens Center for Contemporary Art Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Dashanzi Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8459 9269) www.ucca.org.cn 尤伦斯当代艺术中心, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号大山子艺术区

October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 79 that’smags

ART

Beijing Angle Modern Art 4/F, Bldg 1, China View (Zhongguo Hongjie), A2 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6561 8327) 北京角度画廊, 朝阳区工体东路甲二号中国红阶一座四层

China Art Seasons Tue-Sun 11am-7pm. Dashanzi art district, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6431 1900, fax 6431 1990) www.artseasons.com.sg 北京季节, 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号798大山子艺术区

n Print& ICinema Gasp! In theaters now.

ART IN PRINT & CINEMA

Forgettable, or future cult classic? See below.

op quiz: Which red-hot A-list Chinese celebrity does not appear in the October 1 blockbuster, The Founding of a Republic (建国大业)? Trick question: none of them. The star-studded propaganda piece features cameo appearances from everyone who’s anyone in Chinese film (see Feature, p82) and is sure to be the cinematic equivalent of Zhang Yimou’s Tiananmen Square fireworks extravaganza. Another film in theaters now is noteworthy for what appears to be the opposite reason. Gasp! (气喘吁吁) is a dark comedy about an American ( John Savage) who travels to China looking for some innocent Chinese investor he can milk for cash (see photo, above). Starring Ge You and featuring Howie B and Cui Jian on the soundtrack, the film has gotten what might be the worst reception in Chinese film history. While some fans call the artistic film “China’s first cult movie,” and simply not mainstream enough for the general audience, local critics and bloggers alike have blasted it almost unanimously. When asked what he thought about the film’s warmer overseas reception, director Zhong Zheng said, “I don’t know and it doesn’t matter – it’s seriously related to China and Chinese people.” Go see the controversial film for yourself, before its sure-to-be-short run in theaters concludes. Around town, there’s plenty of fun film events to attend – the Italian Cultural Center is holding a batch of Italian film noir screenings full of sneaky detectives, organized crime and corruption, all based on books by famous noir authors. The French Cultural Centre has dedicated the month to an equally worthy genre: cartoons for grown-ups! The center will be screening several feature-length animated films that cover a wide range of artistic styles, as well as two separate collections of animated shorts. As for book events, Michael Santoro is back to talk about the link between economics and politics in China, and what it means for the future (Oct 14). If you’re looking for something a little more fun, there are two book launches you might want to check out – Helen Couchman is presenting a piece on her grandmother’s marvelous collection of hats (Oct 15), while local novelist Jimmy Qi is giving us the Confessions of an Elevator Operator (Oct 22). On a more global page, Google is once again being lambasted for their Google Books project, which has scanned millions of out-of-print books and put them up online, available for free. However, many books that are out of print in the US are still available in Europe, and European publishers are up in arms over the unfair competition and copyright infringement. The US court ruling is set for October 7. Mary Dennis

80 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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All event listings are accurate at time of press and subject to change

For venue details, see directories, p83 Send events to listings@thebeijinger.com by

IN PRINT EVENTS

Oct 5 Book Launch: The Seventies The five authors of The Seventies will share their memories of growing up during that complicated decade. Free. 10 am-noon. UCCA (8459 9269) Oct 10 Book Swap and Board Games Trade your old English, French, Dutch and Portuguese books for new ones, and stick around to make new friends playing Monopoly and other board games. Free. 2-6pm. Sequoia Cafe (6501 5503) Oct 14 China 2020 with Michael Santoro What will be the effect of economic reform and prosperity on political reform in China? How can companies operate with moral integrity and ethics in China? Santoro argues that moral integrity (or lack of it) by Western business will have a profound impact on whether or not economic privatization and growth usher in greater democracy and respect for human rights. Michael Santoro has a Ph.D. in Public Policy from Harvard, and has published books on business ethics, two of them focusing specifically on China. He is currently associate professor of Ethics at Rutgers Business School. RMB 30, RMB 20 (members) The Bookworm (6586 9507) Oct 15 Book Launch: Mrs. West’s Hats by Helen Couchman Helen Couchman’s new book is on the life of her grandmother, a remarkable lady and the owner of a number of extravagant hats. Explore memory, history, heritage, and inheritance via this beautiful little work, soon to be launched in London and worldwide. Helen Couchman is a Beijing-based visual artist, and the author of Gongren. With special guests, including critic Anthony Gorman. RMB 30, RMB 20 (members). 7.30pm. The Bookworm (6586 9507) Oct 22 Book Launch: Confessions of an Elevator Operator by Jimmy Qi Beijing novelist Jimmy “Monkey” Qi firmly subscribes to the philosophy that writers should live in the world, rather than take writing as a “professional occupation.” This new voice presents the first English translation of his Yu Li – Confessions of an Elevator Operator, recently published by Make Do Studios, Hong Kong. RMB 30, RMB 20 (members) 7.30pm. The Bookworm (6586 9507) Oct 28 Discussion: Segalen – A Life with John Mateer 2009 marks one century since the first visit of Victor Segalen, the French novelist, poet, archaeologist and art historian, to this country. Segalan’s work is increasingly seen as an alternative literary response to the American Ezra Pound’s vision of Cathay. Bookworm’s writer-in-residence, the Australian poet John Mateer, who has been in Beijing to investigate Segalen, will present a personal response to Segalen’s inspiring work. RMB 30, RMB 20 (members). 7.30pm. The Bookworm (6586 9507)

Oct 12

Oct 30 Death in the Palace: A Murder Mystery A mild October evening, 1793, in the Forbidden City. For one exceptional occasion, the emperor has thrown the doors of the palace open for a lavish party, inviting noblemen and warlords, visiting envoys from abroad, mysterious travelers and traders from afar into his sacred chambers. But just as the party is getting underway, tragedy strikes! The emperor’s favorite concubine, Fan Fan, is stabbed in the heart with a jade hairpin! Who did it? A jealous rival? The court physician? A figure from her distant pre-palace past? Secrets and intrigue abound as we celebrate Halloween with a murder mystery night. Audience participation; imperial dress required. 8pm. The Bookworm (6586 9507)

CINEMA EVENTS Oct 1, 17 Puujee Explorer Yoshiharu Sekino is on a voyage to trace the journey of the human race back to its point of origin, but when he reaches Mongolia, he meets a self-assured 6-year-old girl who will change the course of his journey completely. RMB 30 (includes a drink). 7.30pm. CNEX (8721 5576) Oct 1, 18 KJ Wong Ka-jeng is a 17-year-old music prodigy from a well-to-do family, but despite his talent, he begins to question, “What is in life, if not music?” RMB 30 (includes a drink). 3.30pm (Oct 1), 5pm (Oct 18). CNEX (8721 5576) Oct 2, 11 Hip-Hop Storm A documentary about two generations of Taiwanese hip-hop dancers. RMB 30 (includes a drink). 5pm (Oct 11), 7.30pm (Oct 2). CNEX (8721 5576) Oct 2, 24 Little Dieter Needs to Fly A feature-documentary about the extraordinary capture and escape of the German-US pilot Dieter Dengler in Laos. RMB 30 (includes a drink). 3.30pm (Oct 2), 7.30pm (Oct 24). CNEX (8721 5576) Oct 3-9 Nordic Mini Film Festival Five recent films and documentaries from Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland and Iceland will be screened, each telling a story of migrant life and culture in the Nordic world. Price and time TBA. UCCA (8459 9269) Oct 3, 25 White Diamond Airship engineer Dr. Graham Dorrington embarks on a trip to Kaieteur Falls, hoping to fly his helium-filled invention above the treetops in the area’s littleexplored rain forest. RMB 30 (includes a drink). 3.30pm (Oct 3), 5pm (Oct 25). CNEX (8721 5576) Oct 4, 9, 11, 24, 30 We Are Not Machines Animated shorts. In French with English and Chinese subtitles. RMB 20, RMB 10 (students). 5pm (Oct 9, 30), 7.30pm (Oct 4, 11, 24). French Cultural Centre (6553 2627)

REVIEWS BOOKS

Water Flows Below Time 水在时间之下 Fang Fang “The most ruthless thing in the world is time,” says author Fang Fang. This is true especially for women in a patriarchal society – and actresses. The biography of opera performer Shui Di (“Water Drop”), therefore, unfolds to the sound of a ticking clock. Set in old Wuhan, Water traces Shui Di’s rags-to-riches life – she was a concubine’s daughter who overcame a tough childhood to become a star of Han (Hubei) opera. However, the onset of war robs her of both her glorious stage career and her lover. As she ﬁnds herself abandoned in a besieged city, we see that the twists of fate in Shui Di’s life reﬂect the turbulent history of Wuhan during the last century. Alice Wang

Oct 7: Romeo + Juliet “Do you bite your thumb at us, sir?” See listing, this page.

Oct 7, 11, 17, 24, 25 Childishness Animated shorts. In French with English and Chinese subtitles. RMB 20, RMB 10 (students). 3pm (11, 17, 24), 5pm (Oct 25), 7.30pm (Oct 7). French Cultural Centre (6553 2627) Oct 8 Let it Be A documentary about the grueling everyday life and work of three elderly farmers in a town in the heart of Taiwan’s rice cultivation area. Free. 7pm. Channel Zero Salon (8855 0623) Oct 9 The Snack Thief (Il commissario Montalbano – Il ladro di merendine) The first of the Inspector Montalbano series of TV movies, a noir tale of blackmail and conspiracy, shows there’s much more to Sicily than what is seen in American mafia movies. In Italian with Chinese subtitles. Free. 7pm. Italian Cultural Office (6532 5015) Oct 10, 31 A Map for Saturday The product of a year’s travel through 26 countries on four continents by Emmy-winning producer Brook Silva-Braga, who left a cushy gig with HBO to travel the world with five pounds of clothes and 30 pounds of video equipment. RMB 30 (includes a drink). 7.30pm. CNEX (8721 5576) Oct 13 Blood Drawing (Disegno di sangue) When Inspector Curreli takes up his new position in Cagliari, he must deal with his colleagues’ suspicion and a murder that nobody wants to solve. Based on a story by Marcello Fois. In Italian with Chinese subtitles. Free. 7pm. Italian Cultural Office (6532 5015) Oct 14 Drastic Therapy (Terapia d’urto) Roberto, a 30-year-old man, leads a secluded life because of a serious panic disorder. When his mother dies, he discovers the existence of a brother that he’d never known. In Italian with Chinese subtitles. Free. 7pm. Italian Cultural Office (6532 5015) A Fistful of Dollars From Sergio Leone (The Good, The Bad and The Ugly) comes the original genre-defining spaghetti Western. Clint Eastwood stars as a drifter gunman who arrives in a Mexican village to discover that the town is dominated by two gangster lords. He decides to work for both, playing one side off against the other. Free (includes popcorn). 8pm. Obiwan (8322 1231)

Set in Seattle during World War II, this debut novel traces the unlikely love story between a young Chinese-American boy and his Japanese-American classmate. Despite the objections of his nationalistic father, 13-year-old Henry Lee maintains his love and loyalty to Keiko even after she and her family are locked up in an interment camp. Spliced as a series of ﬂashbacks between descriptions of Henry’s adult life decades later, this account of a forbidden ﬁrst love is tender and evocative. The writing can be clunky – the author tries so earnestly to be politically correct, and treats war and racism as only minor obstacles to the requisite Happy Ending. Still, it’s a fun read and yes, it’s “heartwarming.” Minfong Ho MOVIES

Good Cats 好猫 You might say Ying Liang is a bit of a hermit. Despite critical acclaim and an international reputation, the director lives in Sichuan, keeping a safe distance from China’s cinematic centers, Beijing and Shanghai. In his third feature-length film, Good Cats, the impact of China’s real estate expansion is seen in the tale of a miserable village youth in Sichuan. Shot on digital, this low-budget art-house picture dresses social conflict in black humor, and is blessed with impressive acting from a non-professional cast – mostly Ying Liang’s friends and relatives. The film feels like Michelangelo Antonioni’s late works – a story of industrial society told through realism, though surreal elements add a splash of the absurd. Wang Ge

The Time Traveler’s Wife Henry DeTamble (Eric Bana) has a genetic condition that transports him through time, but this isn’t the story of a superhero. Henry has no control over which episode of his life he visits, and he can’t change the future – there’s no point to his condition. The ﬁlm’s primarily a tearjerker about his predestined courtship with Clare (Rachel McAdams), the long-suffering wife. Despite the charm of the two leads, Bana’s put-on monotone American accent and the stilted dialogue rob the story of its potential – even a movie based on a bestseller can’t make up for Henry’s passivity. Audiences will be waiting for a twist or climax that never arrives. Jessica Pan

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October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 81 that’smags

ART IN PRINT & CINEMA

Oct 4, 10, 14, 18, 28 Princes and Princesses (Princes et princesses) This animated film uses cut-outs and faceless characters to retell six fairy tales. Each story is delicately connected to the next and contains implicit morals from latter-day fables. A film for both adults and children. In French with Chinese subtitles. RMB 20, RMB 10 (students). 3pm (Oct 10), 5pm (Oct 4), 7.30pm (Oct 14, 18, 28). French Cultural Centre (6553 2627) Oct 4, 16, 18, 19, 23, 25 The Fantastic Planet (La planète sauvage) A futuristic cartoon taking place on a faraway planet where giants rule, and oppressed humanoids rebel against the machine-like leaders. In French with Chinese subtitles. RMB 20, RMB 10 (students). 3pm (Oct 4), 5pm (Oct 18, 23), 7.30pm (Oct 16, 19, 25). French Cultural Centre (6553 2627) Oct 9, 11, 17, 18, 21, 26 Chronopolis An animated film that tells the story of a gargantuan city lurking in the sky, colonized by powerful immortals who have become jaded with eternal life. Most of their time is spent monotonously constructing bizarre and unusual objects while waiting for the ultimate gift to arrive in their hands. Film contains no language. RMB 20, RMB 10 (students). 3pm (Oct 18), 5pm (Oct 11, 17), 7.30pm (Oct 9, 21, 26). French Cultural Centre (6553 2627) Oct 5, 10, 12, 25 Raining Cats and Frogs (La prophétie des grenouilles) In this cute animal animation, a flood decimates the planet, leaving only an unusual group of survivors. Led by Ferdinand, a modern-day Noah, this little group manages to defy the furiously raging elements. People and animals alike are dragged through this incredible whirlpool of adventure. In French with Chinese subtitles. RMB 20, RMB 10 (students). 3pm (Oct 25), 5pm (Oct 10), 7.30pm (Oct 5, 12). French Cultural Centre (6553 2627) Oct 7 Romeo + Juliet “My only love sprung from my only hate! Too early seen unknown, and known too late! Prodigious birth of love it is to me that I must love a loathed enemy.” Claire Danes and Leonardo DiCaprio star in a modern setting of Shakespeare’s timeless tale of forbidden love. Free (includes popcorn). 8pm. Obiwan (8322 1231)

Hotel on the Corner of Bitter and Sweet Jamie Ford

FEATURE

ART IN PRINT & CINEMA

Scenes from Jianguo Daye (The Founding of a Republic)

PATRIOT FRAMES A proper gander at upcoming films by Mary Dennis

ince the founding of this great nation, the State Administration of Radio, Film, and Television (SARFT) has presented China’s citizens with inspirational tales of its history and moral code through film. The patriotic film has come a long way since 1949. “The portrayal of characters has become more well-rounded and dimensional, rather than having one communal face,” says Zhang Yong, a screenwriter and director for CCTV-10. From the mid-’50s until the mid-’80s, the government-owned China Film Group made all of China’s propaganda films. Starting in the mid-’90s, SARFT began to commission private companies to create films on a particular topic. In ant icipat ion of the CCP’s 60th anniversary, SARFT commissioned the production of over 50 “main melody” (i.e. state-recommended) films. The cream of the crop will be taking over screens at every theater near you, from mid-September onwards. T he one to watch is undoubted ly Jianguo Daye, a rousing, historical birth-of-the-nation epic that premiered on September 17. The film is sure to be absolutely stunning, as over 100 of China’s biggest stars had the privilege of serving their country cinematically, comprising what its own producers have called “the most powerful lineup in the history of Chinese film.” The lineup itself demonstrates the strong patriotism China ignites in its people. Many of its stars are technically citizens of other countries – including Chen Kaige, Chen Hong, Wu Junmei, Ning Jing (US); Jet Li (Singapore); Jiang Wen (France); and Xu Qing ( Japan) – but when asked by the CCP to participate in such an extraordinary, once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, there was simply no Chinese star, regardless of citizenship, who could refuse. But that’s just one movie – there are plenty more to be had. If any film stands to present a box office threat to Jianguo Daye, it’s

sure to be the October 1st arrival of Feng Sheng (The Message). This spy thriller, starring A-listers Zhou Xun, Li Bingbing, and Zhang Hanyu, brings to light the undercover operations of the Communist Party - surely something that many people would love to see. Another highlight is Tiananmen, which opened early on September 3, and gives the historic square, one of the cornerstones of China’s identity, the tribute and recognition it has long deserved. Directed by Ye Daying, the film presents an inspiring view of how people decorated the square in preparation for the PRC founding ceremony 60 years ago. The film serves as a kind of countdown to this year’s National Day extravaganza, set to once again bring an absolutely heartstopping experience to the heart of the city. The three films above are the “mustsee” box office hits of the anniversary, but viewers will have plenty to choose from when it comes to October cinema selection – there’s still 47 more celebratory “main melody” films! If you are looking for something just a little bit different, check out Jingtian Dongdi, a film about the 2008 Wenchuan earthquake that was shot on location in Sichuan last fall. There are also biopics like Wang Jinxi (Iron Man), a tale of a model worker who helped dig the Daqing Oilfield, and Deng Jiaxian, which honors a leading scientist of China’s nuclear weapons program. All of these films are absolutely guaranteed to be huge box office successes; to help attendance, ticket vouchers good for a RMB 10 entry were given to anyone who bought a movie ticket between September 1-20. But SARFT wants to ensure that it isn’t just the wealthy who are given the privilege of viewing these films. “We will hold special screenings for orphans, children of migrant workers, and model workers from August 30,” said an official from SARFT. “We hope all residents are able to share the achievements of China’s film industry during the past 60 years.”

Another highlight is Tiananmen, which gives the historic square the tribute and recognition it has long deserved

82 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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BOOKSTORES All Sages Bookstore Not many Englishlanguage titles, but nice Chinese selection and stylish cafe on the second floor. Daily 10am-10pm. 123 Lanqiying, Chengfu Lu, Haidian District. (6276 8748) www.allsagesbooks.com 北京万圣书园, 海淀区蓝旗营成府路123号 Beijing Book Building An eclectic range of English-language books. Daily 9am-9pm. 17 Xichang’an Jie, (right near Xidan subway station), Xicheng District. (6607 8477) www.bjbb.com 北京图书大厦, 西城区西长安大街17号 Beijing Forestsong Bookstore Specializing in Chinese-language humanities and social science related titles. Daily 9am-9pm. 46 Haidian Lu, (south gate of Peking University), Haidian District. (6276 8736) www. forestsong.com.cn 北京风入松书店, 海淀区海淀路46号（北大南门） Beijing International Book Store This huge bookstore in Beijing’s far west stocks a large range of English-language titles. 9am- 9pm. 117 Xisihuan Beilu, Haidian District. (8849 9030, gjsd@mail.cibtc.com. cn) 北京国际书店, 海淀区西四环北路117号 (四季青桥西南)

Oct 5-25: The Fantastic Planet When mechanical giants ruled the earth. See listing, p81.

the sole breadwinner. This documentary charts how, with determination, Luo tries something new to earn a living: opening a coffee bar. Free. 7pm. Channel Zero Salon (8855 0623) Oct 23 Early Documentaries of Kieslowski Your only chance to see the early works of this world-famous Polish director, best known for his award-winning trilogy, Trois Couleurs: Bleu, Blanc, Rouge. RMB 30 (includes a drink). 7.30pm. CNEX (8721 5576) The Goodbye Kiss (Arrivederci amore, ciao) Once released from prison, a former left-wing activist-turnedterrorist pursues his dream of becoming a “respectable” citizen, even if the way to it is paved with larceny, pimping, drug-dealing, rape, heist and murder. In Italian with Chinese subtitles. Free. 7pm. Italian Cultural Office (6532 5015) Oct 28 The Doors Oliver Stone’s homage to ’60s rock group The Doors also doubles as a biography of the group’s late singer, the “Electric Poet” Jim Morrison, played by a surprisingly convincing Val Kilmer. Free (includes popcorn). 8pm. Obiwan (8322 1231) Oct 29 9 Star Hotel Israeli filmmaker Ido Haar follows a band of Palestinian day laborers as they attempt to make a living by illegally crossing the border into the Israeli city of Modi’in for work. A handheld camera assumes the position of a group member around campfire meals and amid flights from police. Largely focusing on two young best friends, the film is a portrait of their anxiety and desperation. Free. 7pm. Channel Zero Salon (8855 0623) Oct 30 As God Commands (Come Dio comanda) The story of the relationship between a neo-Nazi alcoholic and his 11-year-old son. They live on the margins of society in a town in northern Italy with their mentally ill friend Quattro Formaggi, until a dark, long night of rain, lighting and desperation changes their lives forever. In Italian with English subtitles. Free. 7pm. Italian Cultural Office (6532 5015)

Big and Little Books Specializes in imported English language children’s books. 1) 10 am-10pm. Shop 4001N, 5/F, Golden Resource Mall, 1 Yuanda Lu, Haidian District. (135 5237 3200); 2) 9.30am-8pm. 102A,Beiing Lido Holiday Inn, Jiangtai Lu, Airport Expressway, Chaoyang District. (6437 6338); 3) Daily 10am-10pm. F4, Wangjing Mall, 33 Guangshun Beidajie, Wangjing, Chaoyang District. (8478 0428) 小逗号儿童书店, 1) 海淀区远大路1号金源新燕莎五层4001N; 2) 朝阳区首都机场路将台路丽都假日饭店102A; 3) 朝阳区望京广顺北大街33号嘉茂（望京华联）购物中心四层 Blue Goat Books & Cafe Lots of Chinese cinema books and movies in a good place for a nap or a beer. Daily 12.30am-midnight. 3 Shuimo Xinqu (200m north of west gate of Tsinghua University), Haidian District. (6265 5069) 蓝羊书坊, 海淀区水磨新区3号（清华西门向北200米） The BookMark A wide range of books in English and other languages, including a sizable selection of children’s literature. Wed-Sat 10am-4pm. 1 Kaifa Jie (between Ms. Shanen’s Bagels and Smallville Café), Xibaixinzhuang, Houshayu, Shunyi District. (8049 9175, shunyilibrary@aol.com) www. bookmarkbeijing.com 顺义区后沙峪西白辛庄开发街1号 BooksChina.com Daily 8.30am-6pm. 2/F, Xueyuanlu Post Office, 17 Chengfu Lu, Haidian District. (8237 5220, wh0461@126. com, www.bookschina.com) 中国图书网, 海淀区成府路17号学院路邮局2层 The Bookworm This sleek lending library and bookshop has the best selection of English language books and magazines in town and is often cheaper than Amazon et al. The bibliophile manager arranges a fabulous lecture series that features both local and international authors. Other draw cards include the rooftop terrace, comfy couches and a kitchen that serves European fare. 1) Mon-Sat 8am8pm,Sun 8am-5pm. The First Courtyard, Hegezhuang Village, Shunyi District. (6431 2108, books@beijingbookworm. com, kidsclub@beijingbookworm. com); 2) Daily 9am-2am. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6586 9507, books@beijingbookworm.com, kidsclub@beijingbookworm.com) www. chinabookworm.com 书虫书吧, 1) 顺义区崔各庄乡，何各庄村一号院; 2) 朝阳区工体北路4号院 Chaterhouse Booktrader Prices are generally a bit higher than those at the Foreign Language Bookstore, but they do stock a good range of travel, kids, health and coffee table books. 1) Daily

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China National Publications Import & Export (Group) Corporation A wealth of foreign-language books, periodicals and multimedia products are available at this little-known store. 8.30am-6.30pm. 2/F, 16 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6508 2324) www.cnpeak.com 中国图书进出口公司, 朝阳区工体东路16号 Disanji Bookstore One of the biggest Chinese language bookstores in the world. Great selection of original editions from Taiwan and Hong Kong. 9am-9pm. 66 Beisihuan Lu (opposite the south gate of Peking University), Haidian District. (5128 2300, fax 6253 4396) www.d3j.com.cn 第三极书局, 海淀区北四环西路66号 Foreign Languages Bookstore English language fiction, art books, travel books, magazines, maps, dictionaries, kids’ books (Dr. Seuss!) and more. Daily 9.30am-9.30pm. 235 Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6512 6903, bxwjsjb@public.bta.net.cn) www.bpiec. com.cn 外文书店, 东城区王府井大街235号 Friendship Store Overpriced and snooty, but the best place in town to buy foreign newspapers. 9.30am-8.30pm. 17 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6500 3311) 北京友谊商店, 朝阳区建国门外大街17号 Garden Books A small English-language bookstore above Sequoia Cafe with a quality selection. 8am-9pm. 44 Guanghua Lu (opposite the Brazilian Embassy), Chaoyang District. (6585 1435, gardenbooks@yahoo.cn) 朝阳区光华路44号 Haidian Book City Four huge stories house the biggest and most up-to-date collection of publications you can find in the city. Daily 9am-6pm. 36 Haidian Xidajie, Haidian District. (6252 9474) 海淀图书城, 海淀区海淀西大街36号 Hanfen Lou Bookstore Commercial Press supported, with regular weekend lectures by local Chinese authors and academics. For upcoming events call 6525 8899 ext 544. Daily 9am-9pm. 36 Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6559 5282) www. cp.com.cn/hf/ 涵芬楼书店, 东城区王府井大街36号 Hui Yuan Bookstore Popular with students cramming for the HSK for their cheap, large range of Chinese-language learning materials. Daily 9.30am-7.30pm. A1 Qinghua Donglu (inside Jingyu Hotel), Haidian District. (6232 9778) 汇缘书店, 海淀区清华东路甲1号（京裕宾馆内） Ivy Kids Book Club The best selection of English children’s books in Beijing, with over 1,400 titles suitable for children between 0 and 6 years-old. Ask about their book club. Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pmSat 10am-6pm. Bldg E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu (behind Silver Tower), Chaoyang District. (8446 7286, info@ivybookclub.cn) www.ivybookclub. cn 朝阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座（南银大厦后面） Le Petit Gourmand Warm and cozy space with a menu featuring crepes and couscous. Also boasts a library of over 9,000 books and wireless internet. Voted “Outstanding French” in our 2009 Restaurant Awards. Daily 9.30am-midnight. bar open until 2am. 3/F, Tongli Studios, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District. (6417 6095, fax 6413 0765) www.lepetitigourmand.com.cn 小美食家, 朝阳区三里屯后街同里3层 O2SUN Bookstore A very browse-worthy store with a wide, fun selection of Chinese books and magazines, with a few shelves of English books. 1) Daily 9am-midnight. Bldg 1, Huaqing Jiayuan, Chengfu Lu (across from Wudaokou light-rail station), Haidian District. (8286 3032/33); 2) Daily 10am-10pm. B1083, Shin Kong Place, 87 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (6533 1369); 3) Daily 9am-midnight. S3001,

October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 83 that’smags

ART IN PRINT & CINEMA

Oct 15 Short and Male & Ah Ma Peach A documentary about the worldwide discrimination against short men, followed by one about love and forgiveness, and snow leopards. Free. 7pm. Channel Zero Salon (8855 0623) Unauthorized Investigation (Indagine non autorizzata) 1938: A young woman’s body is found on a beach, very close to the villa where Mussolini is spending his summer holidays. In Italian with Chinese subtitles. Free. 7pm. Italian Cultural Office (6532 5015) Oct 16 Crime Novel (Romanzo criminale) Rome, 1960s: Three young criminals take a step up from the streets of Rome into the world of organized crime. It’s the birth of a smart and ruthless organization that soon crushes all its rivals to assume total control of the drug trade, while imposing brutal criminal laws on Rome. In Italian with Chinese subtitles. Free. 7pm. Italian Cultural Office (6532 5015) Oct 21 The Game Michael Douglas stars in a fastpaced action thriller that is equal parts eerie and suspenseful. Loner Nicholas Van Orton is a coldhearted, wealthy San Francisco banker. While celebrating his 48th birthday alone, he receives a card announcing he has been entered in a live action game that soon turns into a deadly web of scams and betrayal. Free (includes popcorn). 8pm. Obiwan (8322 1231) Oct 22 Protecting Art in Wartime The Museo del Prado of Spain is cooperating with the Palace Museum of China on a roundtable and screening of documentaries about the effort of museums to save priceless masterpieces during wartime. The roundtable begins at 5pm, followed by tapas and wine and a screening of two documentaries about protecting art in China during the anti Japan War and in Spain during the Spanish Civil War. 5pm. Institutes Cervantes (5879 9666). We Have Three In 1975, Luo is the victim of a construction site accident that requires a below-the-knee amputation. His wife suffers from glaucoma and cannot work, leaving his visually impaired son as

Beijing Publishing Logistics Center Asia’s largest book warehouse. It houses over 500 state-owned and overseas publishers. Sells second-hand Chinese and foreign books. Daily 9am-5pm. 12 Zhengfu Dajie, Taihu Town, Tongzhou District. (8080 8888) www.beifabook.com 北京出版发行物流中心, 通州区台湖镇政府大街13号

10.30am-7.30pm. River Garden Clubhouse, 7 Yuyang Lu, Houshayu, Shunyi District. (8046 6211, customer@chaterhouse.com. cn); 2) Daily 10am-10pm. Shop B107, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu (Dongdaqiao Lu), Chaoyang District. (6587 1328, customer@chaterhouse.com.cn) 1) 顺义区后沙峪乡榆阳路7号; 2) 朝阳区光华路9号世贸天阶中心地库B107

For a comprehensive directory, see www.thebeijinger.com Bldg B, Soho New Town, 88 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (8580 2786/2789) www. o2sun.com 光合作用, 1) 海淀区五道口华清嘉园 1 号楼; 2) 朝阳区建国路87号新光天地地下1层1083号; 3) 朝阳区建国路88号 Soho现代城B座S3001 One Way Street Library The limited selection of English-language books in this hard to find shop can only be browsed in store, but this small, sunny bookstore is still worth visiting. 1) 9am-midnight. Rm 1314, Bldg 19, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (5820 5369, 5820 6125, onewaystreetlibrary@gmail. com); 2) Daily 9am-8.30pm. East Gate of Yuanmingyuan, enter the parking lot and keep heading north past the entrance to the park and then turn left (next to Mima Cafe, Haidian District. (6257 0357, fax 6257 0357, onewaystreetlibrary@gmail. com); 3) Daily 9.30am-10pm. Blue Rock Club, Area B, China Millennium Monument, 9A Fuxing Lu, Haidian District. (6857 3382, onewaystreetlibrary@gmail. com) www.onewaystreet.cn 单向街图书馆, 1) 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场19座1314; 2) 海淀区圆明园东门内停车场北侧(在左右间旁边); 3) 海淀区复兴路甲9号中华世纪坛B区蓝石俱乐部内

IN PRINT & CINEMA ART

Sanlian Taofen Bookstore An art lover’s haven, filled with quality philosophy and art books and magazines. With a large range of English-language editions and a small cafe. Daily 9am-9pm. Meishuguan Dongjie (East of National Art Museum of China), Dongcheng District. (6407 1664, 6400 1122) www.sdxjpc.com 北京三联韬奋图书中心, 东城区北京美术馆东街 (中国美术馆东侧) San Wei Bookstore This small bookstore stocks artsy and literary titles. After making your purchases, join the hipsters in the upstairs teahouse for live jazz or traditional Chinese music performances. Daily 9.30am-10.30pm. 60 Fuxingmennei Dajie, Xicheng District. (6601 3204) 三味书屋, 西城区复兴门内大街60号 Shunyi Bookstore Daily 9am-6pm. 606 Pinnacle Plaza, South of Hualikan Cun, Tianzhu Zhen, Shunyi District. (8046 1276) 顺义书店, 顺义区天笠镇花梨坎村南荣祥广场606 Timezone 8 An amazing selection of fashion and art books from local and foreign publishers. Serves a selection of healthy and light cuisine. Booktalks on Saturdays. 11.30am to 7.30pm. Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8456 0336) timezone8.com 现代书店北京艺术书屋, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区 Trends Lounge A bookstore-cafe with plenty of comfy nooks for you, coffee and a book. Impressive range of magazines and books including a decent English-

language selection. Daily 10am-10pm. L214, 2/F, Trends Bldg (connected to The Place’s north building), 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6587 1998) 时尚廊, 朝阳区光华路9号时尚大厦2层L214 Wangfujing Bookstore One of the city’s biggest and most comprehensive bookstores. Struggle through the crowds to reach the third floor, where you’ll find a smattering of original English editions and a good range of Chinese language learning materials. Lectures are held on the sixth floor on weekends, usually in Chinese. 10am-9pm. 218 Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6513 2842, 6525 2592) www.wfjsd.com 王府井书店, 东城区王府井大街218号 Yansha Books Stocks Lonely Planet and Frommers guidebooks, coffee table tomes and kids books, notably by Richard Scarry, Sesame Street and Disney. Daily 10am-10pm. 4/F, Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6465 1188-421) 燕莎购物中心, 朝阳区亮马桥路 50号燕莎购物中心4层 Zhongguancun Bookstore Up there with Xidan and Wangfujing with its range of English-language titles, but located in the university district. Daily 9am-9pm. 68 Beisihuan Xilu, Haidian District. (8267 6696/97/98) www.zgcbb.com 中关村图书大厦, 海淀区北四环西路68号

CINEMAS BC Cafe Bldg 13, Jianwai Soho, Chaoyang District. (5869 5022/5030, bcoffeecn@gmail.com) www.bcoffee.cn 铂澜咖啡, 朝阳区建外Soho13号楼 Beijing Chaoyang Theater Shows daily 7.15pm (call for additional show times). 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6507 2421/1818) www.bjcyjc.com 北京朝阳剧场, 朝阳区东三环北路36号

Dizhi Cinema 30 Yangrou Hutong, Xisi, Xicheng District. (6616 8376) 地质电影院, 西城区西四羊肉胡同30号 Dongsi Workers’ Culture Theater 47 Longfusi Jie, Dongcheng District. (6403 1596) 东四工人文化宫, 东城区隆福寺街47号 Dongtu Cinema 85 Jiaodaokou Dongdajie, Dongcheng District. (6404 2764) 东图影剧院, 东城区交道口东大街85号 Drive-in Cinema 2 Liangmaqiao Lu (1,500m east of Yanshaqiao), Chaoyang District. (6431 9595, 5165 2832) www. drive-in.net.cn 汽车影院, 朝阳区燕莎桥东 1500米路北, 亮马桥2号 East Gate Cinema B1/F, Bldg B, East Gate Plaza (behind the Poly Theatre), 9 Dongzhong Jie, Dongcheng District. (6418 5931) www.dhyc.cn 东环影城, 东城区保利大厦北侧东环广场B座地下一层 Espace France Cinema 5/F, Huateng Xintiandi, 195 Dongsihuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (8795 2618) www.ddcinema.com 世纪东都国际影城, 朝阳区东四环中路１９５号华腾新天地５层 French Cultural Centre 18 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6553 2627) www. ccfpekin.org 法国文化中心, 朝阳区工体西路18号 Goethe Institute 1/F, Building C, Haixing Mansion, southwest corner of Haidian Zhonglu and Haidian Nanjie Intersection, Haidian District. (8251 2909, info@peking. goethe.org) www.goethe.de/peking 歌德学院北京分院, 海淀区海淀中路和海淀南街十字路口西南角海兴大厦C座1层 Guang’anmen Cinema 8 Baiguang Lu, Xuanwu District. (6352 1766/2713) 广安门电影院, 宣武区白广路8号

Beijing Shunboyuan Cinema Shiyuan South, Shunyi District. (8944 9474) 北京顺博苑影院, 顺义区石园南区

Guoan Theater 16A Huayuan Donglu, Haidian District. (6202 6328) 国安剧院, 海淀区花园东路甲16号

Beijing Theater Area 3, 10 Anhui Beili, Yayuncun, Chaoyang District. (6491 1228) bj-show.51.net 北京剧院, 朝阳区亚运村安慧北里三区10号

Haidian Theater 28 Zhongguancun Dajie, Haidian District. (6255 8026) 海淀剧院, 海淀区中关村大街28号

Beijing Youth Palace Cinema 68 Xizhimen Nanxiaojie, Xicheng District. (6615 2241) www.ntcc.com.cn 北京青年宫影院, 西城区西直门南小街68号 Changhong Cinema 75 Longfusi Jie, Dongcheng District. (6404 2159/1160) www.chfilm.cn 长虹电影院, 东城区隆福寺街75号 Channel Zero Salon 7G, Bldg 4, Meilin Garden, 33 Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian District. (8855 0623, channelzero@vip.sina.com) www.bjdoc.com 零频道沙龙, 海淀区紫竹院路33号美林花园4号楼7G Chaoyang Culture Center/TNT Theater Corner of Jintai Xilu and Chaoyangmenwai Dajie (east of Jingguang Qiao), Chaoyang District. (8599 6011) www.cyqwhg.com 朝阳文化馆, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街和金台西路的路口 China Cinema 25 Xinjiekouwai Dajie, Haidian District. (6223 0207) www.cfc.com.cn 中影影院, 海淀区新街口外大街25号 Chonggong Cinema 44 Xingfu Dajie, Chongwen District. (6714 5358) 崇工电影院, 崇文区幸福大街44号 CNEX Saloon Cafe Tue-Sun 1.30-9.30pm. 3 Guangqu Donglu (inside Imagebase Beijing), Chaoyang District. (8721 5576) 北北库沙龙咖啡馆, 朝阳区广渠东路3号竞院图片基地1号库东1层 Cultural Office of the Mexican Embassy 5 Sanlitun Dongwujie, Chaoyang District. (6532 2574) 墨西哥大使馆文化处, 朝阳区三里屯东五街5号 D-22 Tue-Sun 7pm-2am. 242 Chengfu Lu (two doors west of 13 Club), Haidian District. (6265 3177, charles@d22beijing. com) www.d22beijing.com.cn 海淀区成府路242号 Daguanlou Cinema 36 Dashilan’r, Qianmen, Xuanwu District. (6303 0878) 大观楼电影院, 宣武区前门大栅栏36号

84 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

Dahua Cinema 82 Dongdan Beidajie, Dongcheng District. (6521 2647) 大华电影院, 东城区东单北大街82号

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Hart Centre of Arts Dashanzi art district, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6435 3570) www.hart.com.cn 哈特沙龙, 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798大山子艺术区 Honglou Cinema 156 Xi’anmen Dajie, Xicheng District. (6605 1908) 红楼电影院, 西城区西安门大街156号 Hujialou Cinema Xinjie Dayuan, Chaoyangmenwai Xiaozhuang, Chaoyang District. (6593 1765/20) 呼家楼电影院, 朝阳区朝阳门外小庄新街大院 Instituto Cervantes 1A Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (5879 9666) www.pekin.cervantes.es 北京塞万提斯学院, 朝阳区工体南路甲1号 Italian Embassy Cultural Office 2 Sanlitun Dong Er Jie, Chaoyang District. (6532 5015, iicpechino@esteri.it) www.iicpechino.esteri.it 意大利大使馆文化处, 朝阳区三里屯东二街2号 Jinyi International Cinemas B1/F, New Zhongguan Shopping Center, 19 Zhongguancun Dajie, Haidian District. (8248 6800) 金逸国际影城, 海淀区中关村大街19号新中关购物中心B1层 Ladies’ Book Saloon Daily 10am-11pm. 69 Chengfu Lu, Haidian District. (6270 1928) 雨枫书馆, 海淀区成府路69号 Mega Box 1) B2/F, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District. (6417 6118); 2) 3/F, Area C, Zhongguancun Mall (West of Dinghao Mall), Haidian District. (5986 3777) www.imegabox.com 美嘉欢乐影城, 1) 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯 Village地下二层（三里屯酒吧街南口西侧）; 2) 海淀区中关村广场购物中心C区三层（鼎好西侧） National Library Concert Hall 33 Zhongguancun Nandajie, Haidian District. (6848 5462) www.btwhfz.com.cn 国家图书馆音乐厅, 海淀区中关村南大街33号 Obiwan Daily 2pm-2am. 4 Xihai Xiyan (300m from Jishuitan subway station), Xicheng District. (8322 1231,

contact@clubobiwan.com.cn) www.clubobiwan.com.cn 西城区西海西沿4号 Saga Cinema SA-42, Solana, 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Lu (east side of Lucky Street/ Haoyun Jie), Chaoyang District. (5905 6868) www.sagacinema.com 传奇时代影城, 朝阳区朝阳公园路6号蓝色港湾商业区 SA-42(朝阳公园西北) Sam Cinema 29 Shijingshan Lu, Shijingshan District. (6687 9104) 山姆电影院, 石景山区石景山路29号 Shengli Cinema 55 Xisi Dongdajie, Xicheng District. (6617 5091) 胜利电影院, 西城区西四东大街55号 Shoudu Shidai Cinema B1/F, Capital Times Square, Xidan, Xicheng District. (8391 3643) www.shoudushidai.blog.sohu.com 首都时代电影城, 西城区西单时代广场地下一层 Show Max Cinema Daily 9am-midnight. 9/F, Soshow Market, 40 Chongwenmenwai Dajie, Chongwen District. (5167 1298, 5167 1299) www.bjshowmax.com 搜秀影城, 崇文区崇文门外大街40号搜秀城9层 Space for Imagination Daily 9am-1.30am. 5 Xiwangzhuang, Shuangqing Lu, Haidian District. (6279 1280) www.hzcafe.com 盒子咖啡馆, 海淀区双清路西王庄5号 Star City Daily 9am-10pm. B1/F, The Malls at Oriental Plaza, Dongcheng District. (8518 6778) www.b-cinema.com.cn 新世纪影城, 东城区东方广场地下一层 Stellar International Cineplex 1) 4/F, Bldg A, Wangjing International Business Center, 9 Wangjing Jie, Chaoyang District. (5920 3788); 2) 3/F, Hualian Shopping Mall, 111 Huilongguan Xidajie, Changping District. (8077 1188); 3) 5/F, Golden Resources Shopping Center, 1 Yuanda Lu, Haidian District. (8887 8695) www.bjxingmei.com, www.wjxingmei.com 星美国际影城, 1) 朝阳区望京街9号望京国际商业中心A座4层; 2) 昌平区回龙观西大街111号华联商厦3层; 3) 海淀区远大路1号金源购买物中心5层 Story Club 61 Beisanhuan, Haidian District. (8207 1909 ext 1202) 老故事餐吧, 海淀区北三环中路６１号 Sun Cinema 1/F, Sun Square (North Gate), 68 Anli Lu, Chaoyang District. (6489 3954) http://blog.sina.com.cn/ygyc 阳光影城, 朝阳区安立路68号阳光广场北门1层 UME International Cineplex 1) 5th floor, Fuli Plaza, Shuangjing Qiao Bei, Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5903 7171); 2) 44 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Shuangyushu, Haidian District. (8211 5566) www. bjume.com 华星影院, 1) 朝阳区东三环中路双井桥北富力广场5层; 2) 海淀区双榆树科学院南路44号 Wanda International Cinema 1) Daily 10am-9pm. 5/F, Longde Square, 186 Litang Lu, Changping District. (8484 4742); 2) Daily 9am-10pm. 3/F, Bldg B, Wanda Plaza, 93 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (5960 3399) www.wandafilm.com 万达国际电影城, 1) 昌平区立汤路186号龙德广场5层; 2) 朝阳区建国路93号万达广场B座三层 Xiangshan Huandao Drive-in Cinema Southwest corner of Wofosi Lu, Fragrant Hills, Haidian District. (6259 0438) 香山环岛汽车影院, 海淀区香山卧佛寺路口西南侧 Xidan 4D Digital Cinema B1, Xidan Cultural Plaza, 180 Xidan Beidajie, Xicheng District. (6606 3284) 西单4D数字影院, 西城区西单北大街180号文化广场B1层4D影院 Xindong’an Cinema 5/F, 138 Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6528 1988/1898) www.xindongan.blog.sohu. com 新东安影城, 东城区王府井大街138号 5层 Xinjiekou Cinema 69 Xizhimennei Dajie, Xicheng District. (6225 6713) 新街口电影院, 西城区西直门内大街69号 Yingxie Cinema 22 Beisanhuan Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6420 7759) 影协电影院, 朝阳区北三环东路22号 Ziguang Cinema 5-6/F, west section of Landao, 168 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6599 2228/9) www. bjzgyc.com 紫光电影院, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街168号蓝岛大厦西区5-6层

tage S

3 TO SEE San Francisco Ballet

he Martha Graham Dance Company and Jennifer Muller/The Works are not the only American modern dance troupes to have opened shows in Beijing. The San Francisco Ballet has also scheduled their ﬁrst China tour for this fall. The pioneering troupe was the ﬁrst to define the American style of ballet in Tchaikovsky’s most popular pieces, Swan Lake and The Nutcracker, as well as in their production of Coppélia by American choreographer Willam Christensen. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the PRC’s founding and the 30th anniversary of diplomatic relations between the US and China, SF Ballet presents the full-length production of Swan Lake that they premiered in 1988, and a mixed-repertory program featuring acclaimed works by George Balanchine, Helgi Tomasson, and Christopher Wheeldon. Cecily Huang

Oct 2-3, 30-31: The Red Detachment of Women Chairman Mao says, “Women hold up half the sky.” See listing, p87.

Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra

he arrival of Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra, which Felix Mendelssohn himself conducted for more than ten years, is truly the highlight of “Mendelssohn Music Week” at the Egg. When it was founded by 16 Leipzig merchants in 1743, no one could have predicted that the small ensemble would eventually become one of the most important orchestras in the development of the symphony. Not only did Gewandhaus perform all of Beethoven’s symphonies during the composer’s lifetime, but Schubert’s Symphony No. 9, discovered by Schumann, had its premiere in 1839 by Gewandhaus under Mendelssohn’s baton. Under the leadership of many distinguished conductors, including Wilhelm Furtwängler and Kurt Masur, the orchestra has maintained a distinguished tradition and style and enjoys an exceptionally wide repertoire. Current music director Riccardo Chailly, acclaimed for his passionate, vigorous style, embodies the Gewandhaus motto: “True pleasure is a serious business.” Cecily Huang Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra will perform at the NCPA on Oct 24 and 25. RMB 200-1,200. 7.30pm.

Turandot

hanks to Giacomo Puccini for making this beautiful but heartless Chinese princess world-famous through his operatic masterpiece. In turn, she’ll help Beijing regain the world’s attention in yet another PRC 60th anniversary gala event. In 1926, Turandot premiered at La Scala, which holds a mere 2,800 seats; in 2009, the Chinese adaptation of the opera will be grandly staged at the Bird’s Nest, the iconic stadium with a capacity of 91,000. Film director Zhang Yimou ﬁrst launched this version at the Forbidden City in 1998. This year’s revival features multimedia resources and sumptuous costumes. It stars leading sopranos Susan Foster and Raffaella Angeletti, and leading tenors Dai Yuqiang and Mo Hualun. Janos Acs will conduct. Cecily Huang Turandot will be performed on Oct 6 and 7 in the National Stadium (Bird’s Nest). RMB 180-3,800. 7.30pm. www.thebeijinger.com

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ART STAGE

he Chinese grand ballet Red Detachment of Women (Oct 2-3, 30-31; see photo, this page) was a milestone in Chinese ballet when it premiered in 1964. It was the first to successfully combine Western ballet with Chinese folk dance, and set a model for new Chinese ballet. Based on real stories, it depicts the liberation of a peasant girl from her tyrant landlord on Hainan Island, and her subsequent rise in the Chinese Community Party. In its time, it sparked a huge popular interest in dance, fueled by exquisite choreography and music based on folk songs from Hainan. Despite its strong political and historical grounding, the performance is an enjoyable reminiscence of a bygone era in Chinese dance. In comparison, we will get a chance to learn how the American style of ballet was defined by its oldest professional ballet company, the San Francisco Ballet (Oct 1-3). The company has a long tradition of artistic “firsts” behind them, but as Reid Anderson will tell you, that’s not all that matters – the artistic director of the famous Stuttgart Ballet has voiced his worries about what was once their exclusive repertoire, Onegin, being outperformed by the National Ballet of China in Beijing. So this month, he leads Stuttgart Ballet, Germany’s “first major ballet company,” in a performance of The Taming of the Shrew (Oct 9-11). The Chinese adaptation of Puccini’s opera Turandot returns to Beijing this month as part of the PRC’s 60th anniversary celebration. Director Zhang Yimou will stage performances at the Bird’s Nest on October 6 and 7, but that’s just the beginning. According to event organizer Haosi International, plans are underway to transform the RMB 120 million production into a “recognized Chinese princess-themed franchise.” Details have yet to be confirmed, but the organizers have informed us they want to go all out with merchandising by selling “handcrafted Princess Turandot dolls,” as well as producing an animated feature and building a Disneyland-like Turandot theme park in China. Stuttgart Ballet is not the only German performance company to perform in Beijing this month. Under the baton of Jan Cober, Rundfunk Blasorchester Leipzig will make your feet itchy with a series of exciting dance symphonies on October 4. The German Radio Philharmonic Orchestra (Oct 17-18) will give audiences masterpieces from Haydn and Beethoven, while the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra (see 3 to See, right) will take part in a Mendelssohn Concert Series at the National Centre for Performing Arts (Oct 24-25). Soprano Kiri Te Kanawa (Oct 21) mesmerizes audiences with her beautiful, warm voice on October 21, while the 12th Beijing Music Festival and the 7th Beijing International Symphony Concert Season open on October 10 and run through the whole month. Cecily Huang

San Francisco Ballet performs at Poly Theatre from Oct 1-3. RMB 60-800. 7.30pm.

FEATURE

STAGE ART

Patient becomes experiment in the Pulitzer Prize-winning Wit

HOW ARE YOU FEELING TODAY? A play about dying, love and knowledge by Cecily Huang

t might be normal for you, but for Vivian Bearing, this mundane greeting is serious and heavy. Her words – “Hi. How are you feeling today?” – open the play Wit, which proceeds to run as a single continuous act without intermission. Vivian Bearing is the character at the heart of the play; she’s a professor of English literature who has been diagnosed with terminal ovarian cancer and is being treated with an experimental drug cocktail. The Pulitzer Prize-winning play, based on the hospital experiences of American playwright Margaret Edson, has been popular on the American stage for years, and was adapted into a 2001 ﬁlm starring Emma Thompson. Beijing International Theater Experience (BITE) presents the play’s Beijing premiere in October, with producer Anna Grace in the lead role. Like the playwright herself, Grace has lived through a family member’s battle against cancer. To make her portrayal of Vivian Bearing more realistic, she made the decision to shave her head for the role. Anna Grace shared her thoughts with the Beijinger about the upcoming show. “It is one of my favorite plays ever. When I was in college, I always wanted to have an opportunity to do it … It’s very intellectual, but also heartwarming.

“One thing that both Kris [Chung, the director] and I believe is that we should not choose a play because we think other people will like it. We should choose a play we like and we want to do.

“Seeing my grandfather going through cancer affected me strongly. Plus, my mother had the same kind of tumor in her ovary that the character has. She had it removed and she survived. Now she works in a hospital taking care of patients who are terminally ill. My mom, who survived, and my grandfather, who didn’t, both contributed to what I put into the character of Vivian.

“I always think live performance is better than a movie. I personally think theater is meant to be experienced. When you have the TV screen between the audiences and actors, it takes something away from your experience.

“I think this play will make you laugh and cry. It is a serious play, but it deﬁnitely has humor in it. It is intellectually funny, and it makes you think.”

Wit will be performed on Oct 22-25 at Penghao Theater. See listing, p87.

86 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

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PHOTO: SONG YANG

“But if I actually had cancer like Vivian, my experience would be different. Absolutely! Because I am very close with my family and my friends. I would not be afraid to say, ‘I am weak’ ... whereas I don’t think Vivian would ever admit that until she had been broken.

“Actually, I ﬁnd the crying, the screaming is the easier part. Being honest, awkward and real is the hardest part of this character.

All event listings are accurate at time of press and subject to change

For venue details, see directories, p88 Send events to listings@thebeijinger.com by

STAGE EVENTS

Oct 13 Mixed Program from Stuttgart Ballet The collection gathers seven superb ballet programs created by four internationally renowned choreographers: John Cranko, Bridget Breiner, Christian Spuck and Ben Van Cauwenbergh. Magnificent stage designs along with novel artistic expression display both the avant-garde and classical styles of German ballet. RMB 120-880. 7.30pm. NCPA Opera House (6655 0000) Oct 14-16 Alexander Red-Flag Song and Dance Troupe of The Russian Armed Forces As the largest army song and dance troupe in Russia, this troupe brings a strong lineup of over 130 people, including a chorus, an orchestra, a dance group and many outstanding soloists, to perform Russian army songs, folk songs and classic Chinese songs. Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 180-1,280. 7.30pm. NCPA Opera House (6655 000) Oct 16 Dance: Burn the Floor 2009 World Tour As its name suggests, this troupe burns up the stage with their sizzling Latin and ballroom dances: cha-cha-cha, samba, rumba, jazz, swing, tango and waltz. RMB 1801,680. 7.30pm. Great Hall of the People (6309 6156) Oct 16-18 Drama: Rhinoceros in Love (Lianai de Xiniu) Meng Jinghui’s long-standing show is one of the selections from “The Autumn of National Drama.” A young boy, Ma Lu, falls madly in love with a sexy, mysterious girl, Ming Ming. When Ming Ming rebukes all his approaches, Ma decides to kidnap her. In Chinese only. Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 100-250. 7pm. Peking University Hall (6275 1278) Oct 19-21 Dance: The Charm of Tibet Based on Tibetan folklore, this performance transforms Tibetan people’s work, life and religious activity into the movements of ethnic dance. In Luoba’s Sword, you will see the Luoba nation’s hunt and exorcism. Fast Dancing shows Tibetan tap dancing, performed in unique clothes and accessories. RMB 20-380. 7.30pm. Tianqiao Theater (8315 6300) Oct 22-25 Drama: Wit A play based on one woman’s struggle with cancer. See Feature, p86. In English with Chinese subtitles. Tickets at 135 2045 0019. RMB 80-120. 7.30pm. Penghao Theater (6400 6452) Oct 24 Comedy: Chopschticks the Beijinger sponsors the return of Chopschticks’ improv comedy show. Call 158 1026 1614 for more info. RMB 290(at the door), 220 (in advance). 9pm. Block 8 (6508 8585) Oct 24-Nov 7 NOTCH09 Festival Following the “ID-entity” theme of emerging individuals with multiple identities, the fourth annual NOTCH Nordic Festival features a futuristic audio-visual performance series as well as cross-disciplinary exhibitions (design & art). Events will be held at The Village at

ART STAGE

Oct 1-3 San Francisco Ballet Under the direction of Helgi Tomasson, American’s oldest ballet company performs Swan Lake and a mixed-repertory program. See 3 to See, p85. Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 180-1,680. 7.30pm. Poly Theatre (6500 1188 ext 5126) Oct 2-3 Cross-Talk: Better and Better (Yue Lai Yue Hao) Chinese Broadcast Art Troupe spent ten years developing this program, which talks about the social changes in Chinese society in the past 30 years after the “reform and opening-up policy.” It is spiced up with a lot of Chinese slang, idioms and even some “newborn words” which may not be found in the Chinese dictionary. In Chinese only. RMB 20-280. 7.30pm. Ethnic Cultural Palace Theater (6605 2404) Oct 2-10 Drama: Copenhagen Set in 1941, this Chinese adaptation of Michael Frayn’s Tony award-winning play examines a historical meeting between physicists Niels Bohr and Werner Heisenberg. In Chinese only. Tickets at 6527 6911. RMB 50-150. 7.30pm. East Pioneer Theater (6559 7394) Oct 2-3, 30-31 Ballet: The Red Detachment of Women Some consider this classic piece to be China’s first and most successful grand ballet. First shown in 1964, and based on the film of the same name, it created the precedent for a completely Chinese-style ballet. Performed by the Central Ballet of China. See photo, p85. RMB 180-680. 7.30pm. Oct 2-3 at NCPA (6655 0000), Oct 30-31 at Peking University Hall Oct 6-7 Opera: Turandot at the Bird’s Nest Zhang Yimou debuts the new Chinese adaptation of the opera Turandot in the historic structure. Zhang says he will add some special effects that he did not get the chance to use in the Opening and Closing ceremonies of the 2008 Olympic Games. See 3 to See, p85. Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 180-3,800. 7.30pm. National Stadium (8437 2992/3) Oct 9-11 Ballet: The Taming of the Shrew Germany’s oldest ballet troupe, Stuttgart Ballet, will stage one of John Cranko’s three legendary works, The Taming of the Shrew, which redefined the genre of the narrative ballet in the 20th century. It translates Shakespeare’s comedy into the movements of classical ballet with wit and comic timing. See photo, p88. Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 120-880. 7.30pm. NCPA Opera House (6655 0000) Oct 10-12 Shaoxing Opera: Butterfly Lovers Originally from the southern regions of the Yangtze River, Shaoxing opera is known for its sweet, lyrical singing. Butterfly Lovers is similar to the tragedy of Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. This new edition takes bold steps in stage design. Price TBD. 7.30pm. Mei Lanfang Grand Theater (5833 1388)

Oct 12

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Sanlitun. See www.notch09.com for a detailed schedule. Oct 30-Nov 15 Opera: Beauty Xi Shi National Centre for Performing Arts works with Shanghai Opera House to stage this musical about a love triangle involving a famous beauty, a general and the emperor. Emotions run high as patriotism, loyalty and desire clash. It features a strong Chinese opera star lineup: Zhang Liping, Dai Yuqiang and Wei Song. Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 80-880. 7.30pm. NCPA Opera House (6655 0000) Every Wed Beijing Improv Bilingual Workshop A weekly class on improvised theater, stretching creativity and celebrating spontaneity. Open to people with all levels of theater experience. For details, visit www. beijingimprov.org. In English and Chinese. 8-9.30pm. Jiangjinjiu Bar (8405 0124; also see listing in Nightlife directory) Every Sat & Sun Beijing Actors Workshop: New Fall Workshops Participate in 12-week “Theatrical Triathlon” courses, where students sharpen skills through Advanced Playwriting and Advanced Play Directing Workshops. A Voice and Stage Acting Workshop and a Screen Acting Workshop also available. Instructors speak English with Chinese translation. For details and early registration, call 135 2045 0019 or e-mail bjactorsworkshop@gmail.com. RMB 50 per workshop. All Month Traditional Chinese Acrobatics Show Watch amazing gravity-defying feats of acrobats, including board-swinging, hoop-diving, silksuspending and bicycle-balancing, culminating with a lion dance. RMB 180-300. 5.15pm, 7.15pm. Chaoyang Theater (6507 2421)

CONCERT EVENTS Oct 2 Comedy Film Music Along with a video screening, China Film Symphony Orchestra will review international classic comedies including Bathing Beauty, City Lights, A Story in Office, Home Alone, Stuart Little. RMB 100-1,280. 7.30pm. Beijing Exhibition Theater (6835 4455) Oct 4 Rundfunk Blasorchester Leipzig Rundfunk Blasorchester Leipzig Orchestra is noted for successfully adapting Mozart’s opera, The Magic Flute, for wind symphony. They will present a program including “Hungarian Dance,” “Romanian Rhapsody” and “Toccata,” as well as “Strike up the Band,” selections from Lohengrin, and “Trumpet Blues.” RMB 50-580. 7.30pm. Forbidden City Concert Hall (6605 7006/5812) Oct 10 Chorus: The Vienna Boys Choir Under the lead of conductor Andy Icochea Icochea, the Vienna Boys sing songs including Haydn’s Gloria from the Nicolai Mass, Schubert’s Nachthelle, Die Forelle, and ABBA’s “Mamma Mia,” “Chiquitita” and “Thank You For the Music.” RMB 180-680. 7.30pm. Forbidden City Concert Hall (6605 7006/5812) Oct 10-30 The 12th Beijing Music Festival and the 7th Beijing International Symphony Concert Season Opening with Verdi’s Macbeth, this combined music festival brings symphony concerts, guitar concerts, operas, piano recitals,

88 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

and choruses to three of Beijing’s major venues: Beijing Concert Hall, Poly Theatre, and Forbidden City Concert Hall. The program covers new contemporary works from New York’s Bang on a Can, Strings and Keyboard Collective, the Boys Choir of Kenya and a piano recital by the 13th Van Cliburn International Piano Competition gold medal winner. For detailed program, see www.piao.com. RMB 50-180. Oct 13 Pinchas Zukerman with China Philharmonic Orchestra This multi-talented Israeli musician will not only conduct the China Philharmonic Orchestra but also play violin and viola. Program includes Mozart’s Sinfonia Concertante for violin, viola, and orchestra and Beethoven’s Violin Concerto in D major (Yin’ou Kalin, violin). Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 80-180. 7.30pm. Forbidden City Concert Hall (6605 7006/5812) Oct 17 Chorus: Pirates of Penzance The Internation Festival Chorus’s diverse mix of amateur singers has performed since 2002. They’re back with Gilbert & Sullivan’s Pirates of Penzance. Conducted by Nicholas Smith. Tickets at 6506 5345/3. RMB 50-580. 7.30pm. Forbidden City Concert Hall (6605 7006/5812) Oct 17-18 German Radio Philharmonic Orchestra The German Radio Philharmonic Orchestra will perform Haydn’s Symphony No. 104 (“London”), Mozart’s Horn Concerto No. 4, and Beethoven’s Symphony No. 5 on the first night. On the second night: Mozart’s Symphony No. 35 (“Haffner”), Benjamin Britten’s Serenade for Tenor, Horn and Strings, and Mendelssohn’s Symphony No. 3 (“Scottish”). Conducted by Christoph Poppen. RMB 100-800. 7.30pm. NCPA Concert Hall (6655 0000) Oct 18 Piano Recital: When Classics Meets Jazz Du Taihang amazes audiences by skillfully fusing diverse styles of music. How will he make classic music talk to jazz this time? RMB 80-480. 7.30pm. NCPA Concert Hall (6655 0000) Oct 21 Solo Recital: Kiri Te Kanawa Possessing a lyric, mellow and vibrant voice, Maori soprano Kiri Te Kanawa will show her undeniably powerful voice through a selection of works from Mozart, R. Strauss, Liszt, Guastavino, Ginastera, and Puccini. Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 180-880. 7.30pm. NCPA Concert Hall (6655 0000) Oct 23 Tommy Emmanuel Guitar Concert Australian guitar wizard Tommy Emmanuel is a two-time Grammy nominee. His career spans four decades, and he is famous for his versatile, humorous, and passionate performance style. RMB 20-150. 7.30pm. Peking University Hall (6275 1278) Oct 24-25 Concert: Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra Under the baton of Riccardo Chailly, the Leipzig Gewandhaus Orchestra will present works from Mozart (Violin Concerto No. 3 in G major), and Mahler (Symphony No. 1) on Oct 24. Mendelssohn’s Symphony No. 5 and Bruckner’s Symphony No. 4 is scheduled for Oct 25. See 3 to See, p85. Tickets at 6417 7845. RMB 190-1,520. 7.30pm. NCPA Concert Hall (6655 0000)

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THEATERS Beijing Chaoyang Theater Shows daily 7.15pm (call for additional show times). 36 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6507 2421/1818) www.bjcyjc.com 北京朝阳剧场, 朝阳区东三环北路36号 BeijingDance/LDTX Rm 2111,1 Bakeyangshu, Shuang Jing, Chaoyang District. (6405 4842) 北京雷动天下现代舞团, 朝阳区朝阳区双井八棵杨树甲1号北京歌舞剧院211室 Beijing Exhibition Theater 135 Xizhimenwai Dajie, Xicheng District. (6835 4455) 北京展览馆剧场, 西城区西直门外大街135号 Beijing Modern Dance Company Theater (No.46 Theater) 46 Fangjia Hutong, Andingmennei Dajie, Dongcheng District. (8403 3799, info@bmdc.com.cn) 北京现代舞团 (46号剧场), 东城区安定门内大街方家胡同46号 Capital Theater 22 Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6524 9847) 首都剧场, 东城区王府井大街22号 Central Experimental Drama Theater 45A Mao’er Hutong, Di’anmenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6403 1009) www. ntcc.com.cn 国家话剧院, 东城区地安门外大街猫耳胡同甲45号 Century Theater 21st Century Hotel, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6466 4805, 6468 3311 ext 3126) 世纪剧院, 朝阳区亮马桥路40号(21世纪饭店） Chaoyang Culture Center/TNT Theater Corner of Jintai Xilu and Chaoyangmenwai Dajie (east of Jingguang Qiao), Chaoyang District. (8599 6011) www.cyqwhg.com 朝阳文化馆, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街和金台西路的路口 Chongwen Workers’ Palace 44 Xingfu Dajie, Chongwen District. (6711 6135) 崇文工人文化宫, 崇文区幸福大街44号 East Pioneer Theater 8-2 Dongdan Santiao (east of Oriental Plaza), Dongcheng District. (6559 7364, 65276911) 东方先锋剧场, 东城区东单三条8-2号 Ethnic Cultural Palace Theater 49 Fuxingmennei Dajie, Xicheng District. (6605 2404) 民族文化宫大剧院, 西城区复兴门内大街49号 Fengchao Theater 200m east of Oriental Ginza, 12 Shizipo, Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6415 7332) 蜂巢剧场, 东城区东直门外大街十字坡12号东方银座东200米 Haidian Theater 28 Zhongguancun Dajie, Haidian District. (6255 8026) 海淀剧院, 海淀区中关村大街28号 Imperial Granary Nanxincang, 22 Dongsishitiao, Chaoyang District. (6409 6477/99, 136 0125 9568) 皇家粮仓, 朝阳区东四十条 22号南新仓

Mei Lanfang Grand Theater 32 Ping’anli Dajie (southeast of Guanyuan Qiao), Xicheng District. (5833 1288/1388) www. mlfdjy.cn 梅兰芳大剧院, 西城区平安里西大街32号(官园桥东南角) National Centre For The Performing Arts (NCPA) 2 Chang’an Jie, Xicheng District. (6655 0000) www.chncpa.org 国家大剧院, 西城区西长安街2号 National Stadium(Bird’s Nest) Olympic Green, Beichen Lu, Chaoyang District. (8437 299293) 国家体育场, 朝阳区北辰路奥林匹克公园 Peking University Hall Inside Peking University, 5A Yiheyuan Lu, Haidian District. (6275 1278) www.pku-hall.com 北大百年纪念礼堂, 海淀区颐和园路甲5号北京大学内 Penghao Theater 35 Dongmianhua Hutong (south gate of the Central Academy of Drama, between Nanluogu Xiang and Jiaodaokou Nandajie), Dongcheng District. (6400 6452/ 72) 蓬蒿剧场, 东城区东棉花胡同35号(中央戏剧学院南门, 南锣鼓巷和交道口南大街之间) People’s Art Experimental Theater 3/F, Capital Theater, 22 Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6526 3338) 人艺实验剧场, 东城区王府井大街22号首都剧场3层 People’s Art Theater 22 Wangfujing Dajie (behind Capital Theater), Dongcheng District. (6525 0123) 人艺小剧场, 东城区王府井大街22号，首都剧院后面 PLA Song and Dance Theater 60 Deshengmennei Dajie, southeast corner of Jishuitan Bridge, Xicheng District. (8322 0726, 6613 1718) www.pla-theater.com 解放军歌舞剧院, 西城区德胜门内大街60号积水潭桥东南角 Poly Theatre Poly Plaza, 14 Dongzhimen Nandajie, Dongcheng District. (6500 1188 ext 5126/5127) www.polytheatre.com 保利剧院, 东城区东直门南大街14号保利大厦1层 Tianqiao Theater 30 Beiwei Lu, Xuanwu District. (8315 6300) 天桥剧场, 宣武区北纬路30号

CONCERT HALLS Beijing Concert Hall 1 Beixinhuajie, Xicheng District. (6605 7006/5812) 北京音乐厅, 西城区北新华街1号 Forbidden City Concert Hall Inside Zhongshan Park, Xichang’an Jie, Xicheng District. (6559 8285) www.fcchbj.com 中山公园音乐堂, 西城区西长安街中山公园内 Great Hall of the People Daily 8.30am3pm, but closed during government meetings. RMB 30, RMB 15 (children). West side of Tian’anmen Square, Dongcheng District. (6309 6156) 人民大会堂, 东城区天安门广场西侧

Oct 9-11: The Taming of the Shrew Shakespeare’s timeless comedy takes on the ballet. See listing, p87.

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EXPLORE www.thebeijinger.com October 2009 / the Beijinger 89 A few lingering tourists visit the statue in Shaoshan's Mao Zedong Square at dusk. See Feature, p92; photo by Sheila Zhao

xplore

The scaly red dragon of Terminal 3 ... is Asia’s busiest. See below.

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s China reflects on its transformation over the past six decades, it’s a perfect time to marvel at the changes in the country’s air travel industry – at least in relation to our fair capital. It’s hard to imagine but as recently as ten years ago, Terminal 1 was the only passenger building at Capital International Airport. Yes, that tiny facility, which now handles only Hainan Air’s domestic flights, was once the gateway to China. Terminal 2, a glass-and-steel structure featuring arched rooftops that have since become ubiquitous in Chinese airport designs, opened its doors in November 1999. Thanks to the 2008 Olympics, PEK now boasts the world’s second-biggest single-building terminal aka Terminal 3 (it surrendered the crown to Dubai’s even newer T3 last October). During the first half of 2009, almost 31 million fliers passed through PEK, making it Asia’s busiest airport and No. 2 in the world. The airport authority has projected a passenger volume of 95 million by 2015 – and already drawn the blueprint for a second international airport to the south of the city. (Note to the planners: Please learn a lesson from Shanghai, and build fast and convenient transportation links between the two airports.) Although we may whine about huge crowds at check-in counters and long walks to boarding gates, T3 is not only the ultimate testament to the breakneck growth of air travel in China but also a great leap forward for the airport – in terms of both facilities and services. Although both China Southern and Hainan run hub operations at PEK, Air China (CA) remains the true hometown carrier. Few of us experienced the flag carrier – or its previous incarnation, CAAC – when it was flying Soviet jets with flight attendants performing revolutionary songs as in-flight entertainment. It has come a long way since then. In addition to a modern fleet and a decent global network, CA has raised its overall service, in part thanks to its cross-ownership (hence cross-training) with Hong Kong-based Cathay Pacific. Not everything is rosy though, especially during these lean times. Spoiled domestic fliers have noticed cutbacks in food services during non-meal hours (my personal peeve: no more Diet Coke for economy class passengers). CA’s Phoenix Miles, the country’s oldest and largest frequent flier program, has also suffered some recent setbacks. In an effort to curb selling of miles, CA now limits each member to redeeming award tickets for up to eight predesignated beneficiaries. After the initial signup, CA will deduct 300 kilometers from your account any time you need to add or change names on the list – and the revision will only become valid after 60 days. Not customer-friendly, however you slice it. Steven Jiang

90 the Beijinger / October 2009

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All event listings are accurate at time of press and subject to change

For travel directories, see p91 Send events to listings@thebeijinger.com by

Oct 1-5 The Wonders of Hohhot and Datong A five-day tour exploring the Gegentala Grasslands, Huayuan Monastery and Yungang Grottoes. RMB 12,200. TUI China (8519 8999, private-tours@tui.cn) www.tui.cn Guilin & Yangshuo Fly to southern China for a private boat cruise of the less touristy part of the Li River and a bike ride to Moon Hill. Then catch a village fair on Xingping market day, explore Zhuang minority culture and have a drink in the bars on Yangshuo’s Xi Jie. RMB 7,500 (group of 6-9 people), RMB 7,900 (group of 4-5 people), RMB 9,600 (two-person private group). WestChina Adventure Tours (135 8168 2703) www.westchina.net.cn Oct 1-7 7-Day Trip to Tibet This trip to the “Roof of the World” covers Lhasa, Gyantse, Shigatse and Shannan (south prefecture). RMB 13,100 (extra RMB 2,600 for a private room). CCC (6432 9341) www.chinaculturecenter.org Oct 1-8 Romantic Yunnan Travel to Dali’s Old City on a bike trip along the Erhai Lake and explore the UNESCO World Heritage site of ancient Lijiang with a bike tour tracing the tea and horse caravan trail. Then, visit Shangri-la and hike the breathtaking Tiger Leaping Gorge. RMB 1,700 (group of 6-9 people), RMB 9,900 (group of 10 or more). WestChina Adventure Tours (135 8168 2703) www.westchina.net.cn Oct 1-9 Phuket Beach Retreat Nine days and eight nights on southern Thailand’s pristine beaches, cliffs, jungles and mangrove forests. Canoe through caves, snorkel over coral and spend the night at a fishing village. RMB 6,950. Mercury International Travel (8454 9420, enquiry@mercurytravel.com.cn) www.mercurytravel.com.cn Oct 2-6 Hunan’s Zhangjiajie & Phoenix Town Visit China’s southern province and see the Mengdong River, visit the traditional ancient town of Fenghuang (Phoenix Town), and marvel at Huoluping Village’s vibrant culture and unique architecture. RMB 7,900 (extra RMB 1,250 for a private room). CCC (6432 9341) www.chinaculturecenter.org Oct 3-5 Ningxia’s Pyramid & Inner Mongolia Sand Dunes Travel to the wild west of China and climb aboard a military jeep for a drive over shifting sand dunes. See the landscape from the back of a camel, swim in a salt lake in the middle of a desert, and walk through a labyrinth of underground tunnels used by soldiers on the Great Wall. RMB 5,700 (extra RMB 800 for a private room). Flight departs at 9am. CCC (6432 9341) www.chinaculturecenter.org Oct 5-9 Northern Vietnam Spend five days in Hanoi, including a trip to Halong Bay, and taste delicious Vietnamese cuisine. RMB 6,300 (includes round-trip airfare; minimum of two people). Asialive

Oct 12

Travel (5823 7217, contact@asialive. net.cn) www.asialive.net.cn Oct 7-13, 10-16 Tibet Pilgrim Tour: From Lhasa to Everest Base Camp A nine-day overland adventure tour through Tibet with stops in Lhasa, Gyantse, Shigatse, Tingri and the Mt. Everest Base Camp. Sign up at least two weeks before departure. RMB 7,900-11,200 (extra RMB 1,990 for private room). CnAdventure (5166 9102) www.cnadventure.com Oct 20-Nov 3 The Classic Silk Road: From Xi’an to Turpan This 15-day trip will introduce the ancient trade route through all the major oases of China’s great western expanse: Start from Xi’an and move through Lanzhou and the Hexi Corridor towards the ancient cities of Wuwei and Jiayuguan. Explore the Dunhuang Buddhist caves and the desert by camel before flying west to Turpan and Urumqi, then over the Taklamakan desert to Kashgar and Lake Karakul at the base of Mt. Muztagh Ata. Sign up at least two weeks before departure. RMB 14,100-20,200 (extra RMB 2,910 for private room). Cnadventure (5166 9102) www.cnadventure.com Oct 30-Nov 1 Western Guizhou: Waterfall, Karst Landscape, Old Han & Miao Village This three-day tour includes a day in a Miao minority village, exploration of the ancient Tunpu culture, and a visit to Huangguoshu waterfall, China’s largest. RMB 4,700 (extra RMB 350 for a private room). Flight departs in the morning. CCC (6432 9341) www.chinaculturecenter.org Every Wed Cambodia – Angkor Wat Explore Cambodia, from Phnom Penh to Angkor Wat, over five days. RMB 5,950 (includes roundtrip airfare; minimum of two people). Asialive Travel (5823 7217, contact@asialive.net.cn) www.asialive.net.cn Every Wed & Sat Royal Canal Boat Tour to the Summer Palace Cruise along the imperial canal in a traditional-style motorized canopy boat. See the Indian-style stone pagoda, and cruise through Purple Bamboo Park, where a local singalong group is hidden in the bamboo forest. Then finish the day with a walk through the Summer Palace. RMB 350. 9am-4pm. CCC (6432 9341) Every Fri Taiwan: Charm and Grandeur Jump the strait for a ten-day trip exploring mystic temples, goldmining villages, and the lighter side of former headhunting tribes, as well as the natural beauty of southern Taiwan, including Sun Moon Lake, Taroko Gorge and Kenting National Park. RMB 12,200. TUI China (8519 8999, private-tours@tui.cn) www.tui.cn Every Sat North Korea Discovery A four-day trip to visit China’s dear neighbor. RMB 7,900 (includes round-trip airfare; minimum of two people). Asialive Travel (5823 7217, contact@asialive.net.cn) www.asialive.net.cn

Every Fri-Sun Hakka Villages and Xiamen Spend the night in a tulou, a circular earthen building that can house an entire village. Also included is a bus tour along Xiamen’s coastline, with an optional extra day on Gulangyu Island. RMB 3,500-4,500 (add RMB 800 for extra day). WestChina Adventure Tours (135 8168 2703) www.westchina.net.cn Daily Breakaway to Dalian Take a three-day trip to China’s northeast coast. See the ocean, Chairman Mao’s Medal Museum and a Chinese martial arts show. RMB 2,920. TUI China (8519 8999, private-tours@tui.cn) www.tui.cn Qingdao, Beaches and Beer Visit the seaside city that was once a German colony; explore the Taoist mountain of Laoshan, the Qingdao Beer Museum and the Badaguan colonial area. RMB 3,180. Mercury International Travel (8454 9420, enquiry@mercurytravel.com.cn) www.mercurytravel.com.cn

Jiuzhaigou & Chengdu Jiuzhaigou has been voted one of the most beautiful places in China for its colorful forest, electricblue lakes, snowcapped mountains and waterfalls. Experience local Tibetan culture, then travel to Chengdu to visit the Panda Breeding & Research Center. RMB 3,600 (flight not included). Kingdom Travel (5900 6100, fit@kingdomtravel.com.cn) www.kingdomtravel.com.cn Picturesque Lijiang Start this five-day trip by walking through Lijiang’s Old City and soaking up Naxi culture. Take a daytrip to the Jade Dragon Snow Mountian and the famous mural of Baisha Village. RMB 5,780. Mercury International Travel (8454 9420, enquiry@mercurytravel.com.cn) Beijing City Bus Tour This daily bilingual tour offers a brief intro to Beijing’s sights and planning. RMB 380, free (children under 1.2m). Day tour (3 hours) 9.30am, 10am, 2pm, 2.30pm. Night tour (1.5 hours) 7pm, 7.30pm. Beijing Citybus Tour (400 650 0760) www.citybustour.com

AIRLINES Aeroflot Russian Airlines 1/F, Hong Kong-Macau Center Swissotel Hotel, 2 Chaoyangmen Beidajie, Chaoyang District. (6500 2412) http://china.aeroflot.aero 俄罗斯航空, 朝阳区朝阳门北大街2号港澳中心瑞士酒店公寓楼1层 Air Canada Rm C201, Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (400 811 2001) www.aircanada.cn 加拿大航空, 朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心C201 Air China Xidan Minhang Building, 15 Xi Chang’an Jie, Xicheng District. (400 810 0999) www.airchina.cn 中国国际航空, 西城区西长安街15号西单民航大厦 Air France Rm 1609, 16/F, Bldg 1, Kuntai International Mansion, 12A Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (400 880 8808) www.airfrance. com.cn 法国航空, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街甲 12号昆泰国际大厦1号楼1609室 All Nippon Airways N200, Fortune Building, 5 Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (800 820 1122, 6590 9191) www. ana.co.jp 全日空, 朝阳区东三环北路5号发展大厦N200

Bangkok Airways Rm 412, Lido Office Bldg, 6 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (6430 1517/1206) www.bangkokair.com British Airways Rm 2112, Bldg 1, Kuntai Int’l. Mansion, 12B Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6459 0081/2/3) www.britishairways.com 英国航空, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街乙12号昆泰国际大厦1号楼 2112室 Cathay Pacific 28/F, East Tower, Twin Towers, 12B Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (10800 852 1888/10800 152 1888) www.cathaypacific.com 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔28楼 China Southern Airlines 1/F, Nanhang Building, 2 Dongsanhuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (95539) www.csair. com/en 中国南方航空, 朝阳区东三环南路 2号南航大厦1楼 Continental Airlines 1708 Richen International Center, 18 Nongzhanguan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (8527 6686) www.continental.com 美国大陆航空, 朝阳区农展馆南路18号瑞晨国际中心1708 Dragonair 28/F, East Tower, Twin Towers, 12B Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (400 888 6628) www.dragonair. com 港龙航空, 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔28楼

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Austrian Airlines C604, Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6464 5999) www.aua.com 奥地利航空, 朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心C604 Ethiopian Airlines Rm 203, China World Tower 2, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6505 0314/0315/9692, 137 0128 1105, 139 1021 0370, fax 6505 4120) www.ethiopianairlines.com 朝阳区建外大街1号国贸大厦2座203室 Finnair Rm 204, Scitech Hotel, 22 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6512 7180, fax 6512 7182) www.finnair. com Garuda Indonesia Rm 717-720, 7/F, South Office Tower, Kerry Centre, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6561 3399, fax 6561 4499) www.garuda-indonesia.com Japan Airlines 1/F, Hotel New Otani (Changfugong) Office Building, 26A Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (400 888 0808) www.jal.com 日本航空, 朝阳区建国门外大街甲26号长富宫1层 KLM Royal Dutch Airlines Rm 1609-1610, 16/F, Bldg 1, Kuntai International Mansion, 12A Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (400 880 8222) www.klm.com 荷兰皇家航空, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街乙12号昆泰国际大厦1609-1610 Korean Air 901-3, Hyundai Motor Towers, 38 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District. (8453 8137, 40065 88888) www.koreanair.com. cn 朝阳区霄云路38号现代汽车大厦901-3号

Directory continued on p95

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

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92 the Beijinger / October 2009

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SHAOSHAN

FEATURE

REMEMBERING MAO text and photos by Sheila Zhao

1. A vendor holds onto a souvenir fan, printed with portraits of various political leaders

2. Tourists walk past a pond that is located right by Mao Zedong’s childhood home and school 3. A tourist poses in front of a large oil painting of Mao Zedong in a Shaoshan museum, one of many in the village dedicated to the Great Helmsman 4. A lone tourist takes a picture of herself with a mobile phone in front of a Mao statue, located inside one of Shaoshan’s main museums 5. Local residents end the day with a little swordplay in the square 6. Tourists visit Dripping Water Cave, a site located three kilometers outside of Shaoshan village. Mao is said to have stayed there for a few days in the 1960s 7. A group from Gansu, dressed in period uniform and re-enacting the Long March, visits Shaoshan www.thebeijinger.com

October 2009 / the Beijinger

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haoshan, the once-sleepy village located 130 kilometers outside of Changsha, Hunan, has become a modernday mecca for domestic tourists. The town’s most famous export: the Great Helmsman himself. Born here in 1893 into a relatively well-off peasant’s family, Mao Zedong received his earliest education in Shaoshan, living there until the age of 16. These days, up to three million visitors come here each year, making tourism one of the town’s most lucrative industries. I decided to visit Shaoshan to take all this in for myself. I arrived right in time for a major summer heat wave to hit Hunan, with temperatures soaring to 38 degrees Celsius. The oppressive heat seemed to be only a minor obstacle to the sea of little red caps. First port of call is the village’s Mao Zedong Square, where a massive statue of Mao dominates. There, tourists buy ﬂower wreaths and bow in front of Mao three times – the ﬁrst two times to venerate Mao, the last time to make a wish that they hope the Helmsman will grant (some tour guides swear by its effectiveness). The visit to the square, which offers almost no protection from the heat, is conveniently timed to take place before high noon for most tour groups. During the afternoon, most tourists retreat to a number of Mao-themed museums that dot the village. The majority of visitors to Shaoshan are day-trippers – by 6pm, a calm reclaims the village. For me, this was the most enjoyable part of the day, when it seems like it best resembles the Shaoshan that Mao Zedong himself probably would remember most fondly.

CITYLITE

WUHAN text and photos by Echo Yu

Play

ocated in central China, the river city of Wuhan is known as the “thoroughfare of nine provinces.” As the gateway to the limpid upper reaches of the Yangtze River, it’s the launching point for many Three Gorges cruises, but if you want to linger in town, you’ll ﬁnd plenty to keep you occupied.

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Eat Hu Bu Xiang, the “breakfast street,” hides in a narrow alley near the First Bridge, but people swarm there every morning. Try regan mian (hot-dry noodle), niurou fen (rice noodle with beef), mianwo (salty donuts), doupi (rice wrapped in crispy beancurd skin) and preserved rice wine (mijiu). Wuhan also has a tradition of snacking well into the night. Jiqing Jie, popular for its roadside snacks and street performers of all kinds, provides great entertainment on a hot summer evening. Don’t miss the spicy duck neck ( ya bozi) sold at Jingwu Lu – it’s Wuhan’s best-known deli specialty.

Sleep

Shop Hanzheng Jie attracts crowds of wholesale dealers and fun-seeking buyers alike; they haggle over everything from doorknobs to hairclips and blankets to gadgets. Bargain hard and watch your purse. To see where the local girls assemble their hip-hop and punk styles, head to Minzhong Leyuan (located on Zhongshan Dadao).

94 the Beijinger / October 2009

Compared to major cities like Beijing or Shanghai, hotels are cheaper in Wuhan, even for international chains such as Shangri-La, Renaissance and Ramada. The Holiday Inn Riverside (晴川假日) is highly recommended for its view of the Yangtze; rates start at RMB 340/night. Budget Chinese chains such as 7 Days Inn (7天连锁), Home Inn (如家) and Rui An City Hotel (瑞安城市) cost RMB 100-250/night. The truly frugal will ﬁnd an abundance of even cheaper accommodations, but in summertime, the last thing you’ll want to do is spend a scorching night with vicious bugs. Pay a little extra for a room with air conditioning or at least a mosquito net.

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Wuhan is divided by the Yangtze and the Han Rivers into three towns: Wuchang, Hankou and Hanyang The East Lake in Wuchang is the largest urban lake in China. The surrounding parks are famous for their seasonal blooms: cherry trees in spring, lotus in the summer, osmanthus in autumn, plum trees in winter. Moshan Hill, which serves as an outdoor museum of the ancient state of Chu, overlooks East Lake with an artsy web of roads and bridges. Hankou is where all the foreign concessions were located. You can catch glimpses of colonial Western architecture on bustling Jianghan Lu, which is also where the liveliest markets and shopping malls are located. Hankou’s river bank is the nerve center for Wuhan’s nightlife, but it’s also perfect for an evening stroll. In Hanyang, across the magniﬁcent First Bridge, lie Tortoise and Snake Hills. The latter is crowned by the Yellow Crane Tower; with eaves that look like they’re about to take ﬂight, the tower features a breathtaking view of the Yangtze River. T he ma ny nat u ra l resor ts a rou nd Wuhan offer opportunit ies to play in beautiful surroundings. Hike Shennongjia Nature Reserve in summer or ski it in winter. Take taijiquan lessons at Wudang Mountain, the birthplace of the Taoist martial art. Or go whitewater rafting on the rapids near Yichang City.

Tips • Overnight trains to Wuhan are comfortable and cheap (hard sleeper RMB 300, soft sleeper RMB 450). Do your research at Englishlanguage site www.wuhantime.com. • If you need a break from local culture, you’ll find expat-friendly restaurants and shops around Wuhan University. • Most daytrips are accessible via bus; the Hongji long-distance bus station is located near Wuchang Railway Station. Schedules at www.hjky.net (Chinese-only).

Directory continued from p91 Lufthansa Airlines Unit S101 & C202, Lufthansa Center (office bldg), 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6468 8838) www.lufthansa.com 朝阳区亮马桥路 50号燕莎中心写字楼S101、C202室 Malaysia Airlines Rm 1005, 10/F, China World Tower 2, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6505 2681/2682, fax 6505 2680) www.malaysiaairlines.com Phillipine Airlines Unit 603, Tower 1, Bright China Chang An Bldg, 7 Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng District. (6510 2993, bjspr@bjspr.com) www. philippineairlines.com Qantas Airlines Units 7-8, 10/F, West Tower, Twin Towers, 12B Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (400 888 0089) www.qantas.com.au 澳洲航空, 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦西塔10层 B7-8号 Qatar Airways Rm 1201, Bldg A, 26 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (5126 6833, 6588 8258, fax 6588 7762, flyqr@qatarairwayscn.com) www. qatarairways.com SAS Scandinavian Airlines Rm 430, Beijing Sunflower Tower, 37 Maizidian Street, Chaoyang District. (8527 6100) www. flysas.com 北欧航空, 朝阳区麦子店街37号盛福大厦430室 Shanghai Airlines Civil Aviation Building, 15 Xichang’an Jie, Xicheng District. (800 820 1018, 6606 1260) www.shanghai-air. com 上海航空, 西城区西长安街15号(民航大厦) Singapore Airlines Rm 801, China World Tower 2, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6505 2233) www. singaporeair.com 新加坡航空, 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸中心2座801 Sri Lankan Airlines Unit S119, Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6461 7208 , fax 6461 6081) www. srilankan.aero Swiss Air Rm S101, Lufthansa Center, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6454 0180) www.swiss.com 瑞士航空, 朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心写字楼S101 Thai Airways International Units 303-4, 3/ F, Office Tower W3, The Malls at Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an Jie, Dongcheng District. (8515 0088) www.thaiair.com 泰国国际航空, 东城区东长安街1号东方广场写字楼西三座3层303-304室 Turkish Airlines W103 Kempinski Center, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. www.thy.com 土耳其航空

TRAVEL AGENCIES 9588 Online Travel (5885 9155) http:// ticket.9588.com Asialive Travel Tailored tours of domestic and Asia destinations. A02-A2306, Zhaowei Huadeng Plaza, 14 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (contact@asialive. net.cn) www.asialive.net.cn 朝阳区朝阳区酒仙桥路14号兆维华灯大厦A2区3门 A206室内 Australia Expat Travel Offers packages to a wide variety of destinations in Australia. www.ausxpattravel.com.au Banner Travel Service Offers international tours and domestic trips for individuals and groups. Frequent packages to places like Paris, London, Frankfurt, San Francisco, Los Angeles and Hong Kong. 1/F, Daxiang Touzi Bldg, 1A Dongbinhe Lu, Dongcheng District. (5126 8494, 133 6602 1791, info@traveling-china.com) www.traveling-china.com 世纪旅游, 东城区东滨河路甲1号大象投资大厦1层 Beijing Baosheng Air Service Co. Ltd. One of the largest air ticketing consolidators in China; established in 1994. Offers specials on domestic and international air tickets throughout the year. Floor 9, Tower B, Jia Hui International Center

Beijing Citybus Tour Service Daily 9am-8pm. Rm 1207, Scitech Tower, 22 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (400 650 0760) www.citybustour.com 北京赛笛芭诗城市观光旅行社, 朝阳区建国门外大街22号赛特大厦1207室 Beijing Day Trips Information about day trips and weekend trips to the Great Wall, the Wild Wall, Beijing’s hutongs and more. www.beijingdaytrips.com Beijing Easy Travel Travel service with a decade of experience offering domestic and international packages to foreigners in Beijing. 1/F, Boutique 17, Hairun International Apartment, 2B Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (5126 7266, rsvn@easytravel.cn, easytravelbj@yahoo. com) www.easytravel.cn 朝阳区将台路乙 2号海润国际公寓商业1-17 Beijing Mei Lian Tong Air Service Offers discount domestic and international air tickets. Seats are guaranteed. (8447 7361/2/3) www.mlholiday.com 北京美廉通航空服务有限公司 BJS Holiday Provides services tailored to personal travel requirements. Daily 9.30am-6.30pm. Shop 800, Pinnacle Plaza (opposite to the Euro Village), Shunyi District. (8046 3199, travel@bjs.com.cn) www.bjs.com.cn 顺义区荣祥广场800号（欧陆小镇对面） BTG - Chinapak Tours Package tours, ticket booking, hotel reservations and sightseeing tours around Beijing, including a daily bus tour of the city with an English-speaking guide. MonSat 9am-6pm. 1) Guangming Tower, 42 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (400 620 3939); 2) 28 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6515 9743) www.btgchinapak.com 北京神舟国际旅游集团, 1) 朝阳区亮马桥路42号光明大厦; 2) 朝阳区建国门外大街28号旅游大厦 China Countryside Hotels Provides high-quality rental units and boutique properties at the base of the Mutianyu Great Wall. A place to escape and take a break from the city. Ideal for families with children, and visitors looking for a special village experience. (6162 6506, info@chinacountrysidehotels.com) www. chinacountrysidehotels.com China Dragon International Travel Service Services offered include package tours, family tours, ticket reservations, hotel booking, car leasing and more. (6551 8691/92/93, 139 0108 2439) www.2008tour.com China Peace International Tourism Co. Ltd. (FESCO Travel) Fesco travel specializes in individual and group tours, they also offer specials on international and domestic air tickets and hotels. Room 502, 46 Dongzhong Jie, Dongcheng District. (8563 6720/30, info@fesco-travel.com.cn) 外企服务集团, 东城区东城区东中街46号鸿基大厦502室 China Sports Tour Offer sports-themed travel in China. They also arrange games with local teams for both amateur and professional teams, schools and clubs. (5820 7282, info@chinasportstour.com) www.chinasportstour.com China Swan International Tours Offers package and individual tours, including luxury Yangtze river cruises with English guides. Rm 412, 4/F, Longhui Building, 1 Nongguang Nanli, Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang District. (6731 4914, 135 5292 8164, chinaswan99@vip.sina.com) 中国天鹅国际旅游公司, 朝阳区东三环农光南里1号龙辉大厦4层412室 China Travel International (CTI) Englishspeaking representatives provide assistance in booking accommodation, and both domestic and international flights. Special discounts available with Thai Airways, Singapore Airlines and Sri Lanka Airlines. Rm S109A, Lufthansa Centre Office Bldg, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (8448 7113/4, 8448 7115, ctiyansha@vip.163.com) 朝阳区亮马桥路50号燕莎中心S109A室

Club Med Rm 449, Kunlun Hotel, 2 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6590 3818) www.clubmed.com.cn 朝阳区新源南路2号昆仑饭店449室 CnAdventure Offer 4x4 driving & horsetrekking tours into the Inner Mongolia grasslands. They also organize trips to Tibet & the Silk Road. Room 208-F, Daxiang Touzi Building, 1A Dongbinhe Lu, Dongcheng District. (5166 9102, assistant@cnadventure.com) www. cnadventure.com 太和旅行社, 东城区东滨河路甲1号大象投资大厦208-F Country Holidays Travel English-speaking tour consultants specializing in travel to China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Myanmar, India, Thailand, Nepal, Bhutan and other areas of Asia. MonFri 9.30am-6.30pm, Sat 9.30am-1pm. Rm 2804, Bldg 11, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5869 1781/82, 5869 1769, beijing@countryholidays.com.cn) www. countryholidays.com.cn 朝阳区东三环中路 39号建外Soho11号楼2804 Destination Travel International Daily coach tours to major tourist attractions in and around Beijing. Pick-up from most major hotels. 2nd Floor, Harmony Hotel, 9 Youtong Street, Dongcheng District. (6528 8871/2/3) www.graylinebeijing.com 北京目的地国际旅游有限公司, 东城区东城区邮通街9号华美伦酒店2层 DiverseChina Offer in-depth cultural tours, trekking and cycling explorations of remote and regional areas of China. Rm 703A, Yuean Bldg, 30 Jing’an Dongjie, Chaoyang District. (6462 6615, contact@diversechina.com) www. diversechina.com 朝阳区静安东街30号岳安商务楼703A Electric Pagoda Travel Organizes customized and small group adventure tours. Services include pre-booking hotels, trains, flights and local guides. (136 9326 6100, info@electricpagoda.com) www. electricpagoda.com eLong China’s leading web-based travel company. Offering discounted tickets for destinations in China and around the world. (400 810 1119) www.elong.net Forbidden Frontier Inc. An active adventure travel company specializing in Tibet, Yunnan and Southeast Asia. (6415 8691, fax 6415 8690, info@forbiddenfrontier.com) www. forbiddenfrontier.com Global Easy Tour A professional and reliable travel agency. Offering travel and ticketing consultation services, tailored tour packages, leisure trips, cruise bookings, special ticketing, hotel deals, and more. Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 10am-4pm. A0611, Free Tower, 58, Dongsanhuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (5867 2900/1/2/3, 135 0115 6019, travel@globaleasytour.com) www. globaleasytour.com 和平国旅, 朝阳区东三环南路58号富顿中心A0611 Happy Holiday Travel Service Provides domestic and international air tickets, hotel reservations, and business travel and family trip arrangements. Rm 1702, E-Tower, 12 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6501 1747, 6595 8819, 137 0102 8301, happyday@public.bta.net.cn) 朝阳区光华路12号数码01大厦1702室 Imperial Impressions Organizes English-language tours for expats. Also offers private tours inside and outside of Beijing. (137 1770 9623, info@imperialimpressions.com)

东侧院 Mercury International Travel A fullservice, English-speaking travel resource – offering international and domestic trips, for both business and leisure. 17/F, Tower C, Ginza Mall, 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District. (8454 9420, enquiry@mercurytravel.com.cn) www. mercurytravel.com.cn 东城区东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座C座17F My Bus Tours Tours of Beijing and China, including specialty cultural tours, complete with traditional Japanese hospitality. Guides speak either English or Japanese. Shop 2105, Bldg 5, Jianwai Soho, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (5900 0642, travel@mybusbeijing.com.cn) 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外SOHO 5号楼2层106室 Perfect Holiday Travel (5150 3925/3790, jingpin6688@yahoo.com.cn) SinoRent Worldwide car rental from China’s largest car hire broker. Working with quality suppliers (e.g. Avis, Alamo, Hertz), they offer competitive and fully inclusive prices, instant confirmation and a price match guarantee at 6,000 locations worldwide. (400 810 6878, sinorent@gmail.com) www.sinorent.cn TUI China Travel Co. Ltd. Travel services from an international team. Offers city tours, tour packages with special interest groups and individual travel arrangements all over China, as well as to Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia and other Asian countries. Unit 921-926, Bright China Chang An Bldg, Tower 2, 7 Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng District. (8519 8800, privatetours@tui.cn) www.tui.cn 途易, 东城区建国门内大街7号光华长安大厦2座921-926 UIU Travel Agency Provides services in English, Chinese and Japanese for domestic and international flights, visas and hotel reservations. Individual packages to Hong Kong and Southeast Asia also available. Contact Frank (5165 6625, uiutravel@163.com) www. akatonbo.cn West China Adventure Tours Offer tours to Tibet, Silk Road, Xinjiang and other provinces of western China. Specializes in activities such as trekking, camping, horse riding, rafting and 4x4 cross-country driving. (135 8168 2703, inquiry@westchina.net.cn) www. westchina.net.cn WildChina From trekking trips in beautiful Shangri-La, to village home stays in ethnically diverse Guizhou, WildChina offers a range of cultural and activityoriented excursions. Rm 801, Oriental Place, 9 Dongfang Donglu, Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6465 6602, info@wildchina.com) www.wildchina.com 中旅特种旅游部, 朝阳区东三环北路东方东路9号东方国际大厦801室

TRAVEL INFORMATION A&E Beijing Tour Private English-speaking tour guide USD 50/day; chauffeured 7seat Buick for USD 100/day. (5687 2255, 135 2264 0922, aebeijingtour@yahoo. com.cn) Tourist Information Centre & Cycle China (booking office) For helpful information about accommodation, sights, bike hire and booking tours. English-speaking consultants available. Opposite the east gate of Jingshan Park, Xicheng District. (8402 4147) 西城区景山公园东门

Kingdom Travel Specializes in corporate and holiday travel planning and offers airline, hotel, car, and cruise reservation services. Staffed by professional travel consultants. Apt 718, Bldg 2, Guanghualu Soho, 22 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (5870 3388, fit@kingdomtravel.com.cn) www.kingdomtravel.com.cn 中侨国旅, 朝阳区光华路22号光华路SOHO 2号楼718室 Koryo Tours The leaders in travel to the DPRK (North Korea) organizing group tours and independent travel. East yard, 27 Beisanlitun Nan, Chaoyang District. (6416 7544, info@koryogroup.com) www. koryogroup.com 朝阳区北三里屯南27号

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October 2009 / the Beijinger

EXPLORE

United Airlines Unit C/D1, 15/F, Bldg A, Jiacheng Bldg, 18 Xiaguangli, Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District. (800 810 8282ï¼Œ 6463 1111) www. cn.united.com 美国联合航空, 朝阳区东三环北路霞光里18号佳程大厦A座15层C/D1室

Jiqingli, Chaoyang District. (bstravel@126. com) 朝阳区朝阳区吉庆里6号楼佳汇国际中心B座9层

EXPLORE 96 the Beijinger / October 2009

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SPORTS & COMMUNITY

SPORTS & FITNESS

P98 SPORTS & FITNESS P103 HEALTH & COMMUNITY P107 CLASSIFIEDS www.thebeijinger.com October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 97 Fernando Gonzalez takes another swing. See Feature, p100; photo courtesy of China Open that’smags

ports Fitness&

Oct 11: Indiana Pacers vs. Denver Nuggets An NBA pre-season appetizer. See listing, this page.

SPORTS & FITNESS

ctober isn’t all ghouls and goblins, at least not in the world of sport. As it happens, it’s a fine time to be active in this fair city. Sports are back with a vengeance this month. The football teams of the IFFC and ClubFootball’s 5-a-side leagues are still looking for players. So are those rugby-playing chaps. There’s also a month left to go sailing with the gents at Beijing Sailing Center. And then there’s even more … fun runs and the Beijing Marathon, for starters. Check out where you can get active in the events listings, starting this page. For those who can’t be convinced to do something where they might work up a sweat, there’s still reason to get off the sofa. The China Open tennis tournament takes place at the National Tennis Center from October 2-11. The world of tennis has taken notice of the increased prize money; stars already confirmed include Rafael Nadal, Novak Djokovic and Fernando Gonzalez (see photo, p97). The men’s draw is not half as interesting as the women’s, where Maria Sharapova, Jelena Jankovic and Ana Ivanovic will be challenged by local hopes Li Na, Zheng Jie and Yan Zi. The domestic talents have a good chance of going far after a strong showing at the recent US Open. You can read our take on their chances in the Feature on p100. If tennis isn’t your cup of tea, you can cop tickets to watch the NBA’s Pacers take on the Nuggets at Wukesong on October 11. Even better news is that Beijing Guoan may well become CSL champions this month, but the biggest news in the Chinese sports world has centered on two national icons. Liu Xiang is recovering well, and is hoped to be back on the track for the National Games, which begin on October 11. Yu Chen, Minister of the Shanghai Sports Bureau, confirmed, “He’s recovering well. We hope he’ll be able to be back on the racing track for the National Games.” Meanwhile, Zheng Zhi has signed a contract with Glasgow Celtic after he chose to leave Charlton Athletic in the summer. Although he registered too late to be eligible to play in the start of Celtic’s Europa League campaign, he should now have made his debut. Football fans should look out for ZZ’s baptism of fire into the Old Firm when the Bhoys visit archrivals Rangers on October 3. Finally, if you’re a fan of rugby, you may want to check out the Bledisloe Cup in Tokyo on October 31, when the Wallabies will be taking on the All Blacks. If you want to see some real blood and guts, it sure beats Halloween in Beijing. Jonathan White

98 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

www.thebeijinger.com

All event listings are accurate at time of press and subject to change

For team and venue details, see directories, p101 Send events to listings@thebeijinger.com by Oct 12

Oct 1-8 Golden Week Family Sailing Learn to sail or complete advanced courses. Lodgings can be arranged. RMB 1,700 (two-day course). Register at sailing@beijingsailing.com. Beijing Sailing Center (150 0118 9580) Oct 2-5 Fourth Annual International China Salsa Congress The biggest event in the salsa calendar equates to a weekend of activities for the dance-mad at the Kempinski Hotel. RMB 200-400. www.chinasalsacongress.com Oct 2-11 China Open The stars of the tennis world descend on Beijing. Local hopes fly high in the women’s draw. See Feature, p100. RMB 50-2,000 (see www.ticketmaster.cn). National Tennis Center Oct 4 Japanese Grand Prix Formula 1 action from Suzuka. Time TBD. Oct 5-6 Beijing Polo Open An event which attempts to add an air of nobility to the city. International players take on local teams. Time and venue TBD. Oct 10 World Cup Qualifiers Domestic campaigns pause yet again. Including Ukraine vs. England and Ireland vs. Italy. Time TBD. Oct 10-11 Advanced Sailing Weekend Set sail, salty sea dogs. Lodgings can be arranged. RMB 1,700 (two-day course). Register at sailing@beijingsailing.com. Beijing Sailing Center (150 0118 9580) Oct 11 Futbolin-Foosball Tournament You know it as table football, foosball or babyfoot. Now let everyone know your skills. RMB 5 entry. 5pm. Bla Bla Bar (6239 7033) Indiana Pacers vs. Denver Nuggets The NBA returns to Beijing for another pre-season game. Stars like Carmelo Anthony should provide the thrills. RMB 200-5,000. Noon. Wukesong Arena. Tickets at 12580. Oct 17 Beijing Guoan vs. Guangzhou Pharmaceutical Will title dreams have faded before the Guangzhou game? Tickets at 5128 8888 or 6551 4566. RMB 30-100. 3.30pm. Workers’ Stadium (6501 6655) Oct 17-18 Golden Days Sailing Weekend Courses for all levels of seafarer. Accommodation can be arranged. RMB 1,700 (two-day course). Register at sailing@beijingsailing. com. Beijing Sailing Center (150 0118 9580) Oct 18 Beijing International Marathon A 26-mile slog from Tiananmen Square to the Olympic Sports Center. Runners’ roll call from 7am. 8am. Tiananmen Square Brazilian Grand Prix More of the motor racing but this time from Interlagos. Time TBD.

Oct 20 & 21 Champions League Dreams of a trip to Madrid in May might unravel. 2.45am. Oct 24 350 Beijing Green Train The China Youth Action Network, Green Long March, and Greening the Beige unite in support of the International Day of Climate Action. Climb aboard the critical mass citywide cycle ride. Register at www.greeningthebeige.org (before Oct 20). Noon. Drum & Bell Tower Fun Run 2009 The Pride Institute’s Pride in Beijing Fun Run hopes to attract 1,000 proud runners. Register at 135 0114 5526, funrun@prideinstitute.cn or www.prideinstitute.cn. Oct 24-25 Drink the Bar Dry Weekend Sail three sheets to the wind as the center closes for the season. Accommodation can be arranged. RMB 1,700 (two-day course). Register at sailing@beijingsailing. com. Beijing Sailing Center (150 0118 9580) Oct 24-Nov 15 FIFA Under-17 World Cup See the stars of tomorrow before they fail drug tests, crash cars and grace the tabloid front pages. Times vary. Oct 31 Beijing Guoan vs. Hangzhou Greentown The final game of the season could see the locals lift the league title at home. Or not. Tickets at 5128 8888 or 6551 4566. RMB 30-100.3.30pm. Workers’ Stadium (6501 6655) Bledisloe Cup The venue of the 2019 Rugby World Cup gets put to the test when Australia and New Zealand compete in Tokyo. Time TBD. More info at http://bledisloecuptokyo. net. Every Mon & Tue NFL Football Sunday and Monday night sportscasts live from the home of gridiron. 9am. Pilates Work the mind and the body at this class. RMB 90. 7.40pm. Yin Yang Community Center (6431 2108, yinyangbeijing@yahoo.com) Every Mon, Wed, Fri & Sun Vinyasa Yoga Learn from yoga veterans. Price TBD. 9.30am. Yin Yang Community Center (6431 2108, yinyangbeijing@yahoo.com) Every Tue Gaelic Football Beijing Gaelic Football Club holds weekly men’s and women’s practice games every Tuesday in the city; all skill levels are welcome. Details at beijinggaa@yahoo.com or www.beijinggaa.org. 7-9pm. Every Tue & Thu Beijing Devils Training Rugby training out at Dulwich Legend Gardens, Shunyi. 8pm. Free bus leaves The Den at 7.15pm. Women’s Rugby Rugby training for women out at Dulwich Legend Gardens, Shunyi. 8pm. Free bus leaves The Den at 7.15pm. Contact Amy at 152 0148

www.udoadventure.com or 136 1124 1407. Every Sat & Sun Golf Happy Hour Free golf lessons, for free. Free. 2-3pm. SGA (400 650 5169) IFFC Football Leagues Action from the Premiere and First Divisions at Si’de Park. For more info on participating or watching, contact rob@iffc1994.com NHL Ice Hockey Fisticuffs and plenty of goals are to be expected as the long haul to the Stanley Cup begins. 9am. The TREK Peloton Road Bike Cycling Club Rental bikes are available. Riders are divided into groups based on fitness levels and speed. www. cyclosportschina.com or contact tom@cyclosportschina.com. Every Sun Gaelic Football Men’s and women’s practice games every Sunday; all skill levels are welcome. Details at beijinggaa@yahoo.com or www. beijinggaa.org. Noon-2pm. WAB (8456 4155) Hash House Harriers Run every Sunday, then drink like a sailor on leave. Meet at Tim’s Texas Roadhouse at 1pm. Runs usually last an hour, covering about 7-8km. Each run is RMB 20 and includes beer and water along the way. www.hash.cn Pool Competition Think you shoot a mean game? Put it to the test. Prizes to be won. Free. The Rickshaw (6500 4330; also see Nightlife directory) Touch Rugby You can practice touching on the free bus from The Den. www. beijingdevils.com Women’s Lacrosse Practice takes place every Sunday at 10am. Equipment is provided. Cost of pitch fees is shared. Contact Fiona at fionaboyle66@hotmail. com. Women’s Soccer The Odds and Ends are Beijing’s only amateur 11-a-side football team for women. Suitable for all skill levels, from beginners to World Cup winners. Matches or practice every week. Free. 1pm. China Geosciences University. Contact Wenhui at 8526 2420 ext 111 or wf7788@hotmail.com. All month Beijing Ultimate Played daily at venues across town. Meet likeminded flingers of plastic discs for fun times. www.beijingultimate.com ClubFootball Men’s 5-a-side Leagues Midweek and weekend football tournaments all summer. Venues include Chaoyang and Si’de parks. Midweek games start at 8pm. Info at 5130 6893/4/5/6, or play@wanguoqunxing.com. www.clubfootball.com.cn Dancing Mix and match salsa, jive, waltz, flamenco, ballet, cha-cha, hip-hop and belly dance. Classes are limited to ten, with lessons for all ages at beginner level. RMB 50 (one class), RMB 4,990 (170 classes). 8pm. Golden Dancing Academy (6708 0167 ext 15) www.goldendancing. com Major League Baseball The playoffs begin and the battle for the World Series takes shape. Times vary. Premier League Highlights include Chelsea vs. Liverpool (Oct 4), Liverpool vs. Man United (Oct 25) and Arsenal vs. Spurs (Oct 31)

Take5

SPORTS THE CHINESE “INVENTED”

So the Chinese invented gunpowder. And paper. And porcelain. And, much to the dismay of Italians, pasta. But that’s not all … Football The Chinese also invented football. FIFA deemed it so in 2004. It was written into multiple Chinese scripts and depicted in paintings as early as 2,000 years ago. Only, back then, they called it cuju (蹴鞠). ClubFootball 9am-6pm. Unit A212, Door 3, A1 Zone, Huadeng Building, 14 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (5130 6893/4/5/6, coaching@wanguoqunxing.com) www.clubfootball.com.cn 万国群星足球俱乐部, 朝阳区酒仙桥路14号兆维华登大厦A1区3门212室

Baseball In 2007, the National Council of History and Culture unearthed a ﬁve-centuries-old collection of thick sticks with wooden balls coated in a rubber-like material. Li Gang, leader of the research group, put two and two together, asserting that the materials were likely used in some earlier version of America’s past time. Brothers in Baseball Meets every Sunday at Tsinghua’s baseball diamond for slow-pitch games. Contact Walker (139 1066 8946, walker@march3.com.cn)

Golf Back in the tenth century, a Chinese magistrate of the Southern Tang dynasty was recorded in the Dongxuan Records (东轩录) as instructing his daughter “to dig holes in the ground so that he might drive a ball into them with a purposely crafted stick.” Put that in your bagpipe and smoke it, Scotland. Beijing Legend Holiday Golf Club Daily 9am-9.30pm. 89 Shoudu Jichang Lu, Chaoyang District (6456 0111) 朝阳区首都机场路89号

Hang Gliding Perfected in the sixth century A.D. from another Chinese invention, the kite, these devices were originally strapped onto prisoners before tossing them over cliffs. Beijing Flying-man Club 5 Dadu Jiuba Dongjie, Yuan Dynasty City Wall Ruins Park, Chaoyang District (6234 4230, 135 2023 0772, paratechx@yahoo.com) www.flying-man.com 北京飞人俱乐部, 朝阳区元大都城垣遗址公园大都酒吧东街5号

Field Hockey The Daur people of Inner Mongolia have played “beikou” for a thousand years. Only their version is slightly more interesting: Balls are ignited for night games. Beijing Hockey Club Games are played every weekend. Contact bjhockeyclub@hotmail.com for more info. http://beijingfieldhockeyclub.spaces.live.com

Golf comes to the fore

www.thebeijinger.com

October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 99 that’smags

SPORTS & FITNESS

7305 or haggisgoeswild@gmail. com. Every Wed & Thu Nia A brand-new fusion of lifestyle and fitness. Apparently it’s just like chocolate. RMB 110 (one class), RMB 800 (eight classes). 6.45pm (Wed), 8.30am (Thu). Yin Yang Community Center (6431 2108, yinyangbeijing@yahoo.com) Every Wed, Sat, Sun Beijing Hikers Join the club for rated rambles over varied picturesque terrain outside the city. Call ahead to inquire about the hike’s degree of difficulty. RMB 250 and upwards, RMB 150 (kids under 12). Leave 8.30am sharp from the Starbucks at the Lido Holiday Inn. (5829 3195, info@beijinghikers. com) www.beijinghikers.com Tango Learn from Alejandro and Camila. RMB 120 per class. Private lessons available. See www.camilaye.com or call 8552 5228. Every Wed & Sun Badminton Shuttlecock shenanigans for the intermediate and advanced. 7pm (Wed), 10am (Sun). Contact John at johnsk_ho@hotmail.com. Every Thu Handball Everyone is welcome to come and try their hand at the game. Contact Guillaume at 159 0136 4769. Pitch costs are shared. 8pm. Muxiyuan Sports Technology School. www.handballinchina.com Ladies Golf Beijing’s avid lady golfers play weekly at a local course. RMB 290 (includes green fees, caddy and lunch). Tee-off time is 9.30am. beijingladiesgolf@yahoo.com or www.beijingladiesgolf.org. Taijiquan Traditional taijiquan for the masses who have mornings off. RMB 100. 9.30am. Yin Yang Community Center (6431 2108, yinyangbeijing@yahoo.com) Every Thu & Sun Argentinian Tango Classes and Milonga Beijing Tango hold one-hour classes for beginners and intermediates followed by a milonga, or tango dance party. RMB 50. 8pm. Info at Beijing.tango@yahoo.com Sino-Chu Wine Bar (8532 2418) Every Fri & Sun Body Pump A fitness-boosting, calorie-burning session. Reservation required. RMB 80 (one class), RMB 900 (12 classes). 9.30am. Yin Yang Community Center (6431 2108, yinyangbeijing@yahoo.com) Go Golf Friday Find out why you swing to the left with a free assessment. Free. 5-7pm. SGA Golf Academy (400 650 5169) Pool Competition RMB 50. 8pm. Frank’s Place (6437 8399; also see Nightlife directory) Salsa Fun for all is the name of the game. RMB 490 (beginners), RMB 390 (intermediates). 9.30am. Yin Yang Community Center (6431 2108, yinyangbeijing@yahoo.com) Every Sat Field Hockey Beijing Hockey Club bully-off for the season. For more info, e-mail Peter at bjhockeyclub@hotmail. com. 1pm. Beijing Olympic Center Hiking Get out in the great outdoors. For a long walk. Prices and times vary.

FEATURE

ALL OR NOTHING No glory for second place by Lisa Liang

SPORTS & FITNESS

hey’ve risen in ranks. They’ve upset top players. And they are making more money as a result. In the last few years, Chinese tennis players – in particular, the women – have climbed the ranks steadily to become a consistent presence at the Grand Slam events: the Australian, French and US Opens, and Wimbledon. The closest thing China has to a Grand Slam event is this month’s China Open, which comes fast on the heels of the US Open, and is also attracting some of the sport’s biggest names (i.e. Rafael Nadal, Andy Roddick, Dinara Saﬁ na and Serena Williams). Unlike a Grand Slam, however, the China Open is not a top-tier tournament. It falls under the ATP World Tour 500 series, the

third-highest level of competition. And while it still has a ways to go, increasing prize money is edging it closer to being on par with the majors; higher stakes attract high-caliber players, offering more opportunities to gain ranking points. This year’s purse has increased from USD 1.1 million in 2008 to USD 6.6 million for 2009. No Chinese player has yet won the China Open. Home court advantage has so far counted for little. But which of China’s hopes has the best chance? The 2009 China Open takes place at the National Tennis Center from Oct 2-11. See listing on p98 for details or visit www.chinaopen.com.cn.

Li Na 李娜

Zheng Jie 郑洁

Yan Zi 晏紫

Peng Shuai 彭帅

Wuhan

Chengdu

Tianjin

Age: 27

Age: 26

Age: 25

Age: 23

Sony Ericsson WTA Tour Singles ranking: 19 (as of August 2009)

Sony Ericsson WTA Tour Singles ranking: 22 (as of August 2009)

Sony Ericsson WTA Tour Singles ranking: N/A

Sony Ericsson WTA Tour Singles ranking: 44 (as of August 2009)

Li Na performed well in the

Li Na may have a one-two

With Zheng Jie, Yan shares

Younger but hungrier, and

most recent Grand Slam event,

punch, but Zheng Jie can go

six quarterﬁnal-or-better Grand

already a threat, Peng fre-

the US Open, when she made

the distance: Her smaller, leaner

Slam appearances, including

quently takes top players to the

her second quarterﬁnal Grand

and more agile frame helped her

wins in Australia and at

brink. To elimination, even: Ana

Slam appearance (ﬁnally losing

become the ﬁrst Chinese player

Wimbledon (both in 2006). This

Ivanovic in 2008; Amelie Mau-

out to comeback kid Kim

to reach a Grand Slam singles

doubles experience makes her

resmo in 2007; Dinara Saﬁna

Clijsters).

semiﬁnal (Wimbledon 2008).

fearless at the net.

in 2005. There’s a reason why

And though she ﬁnds herself

But Yan’s singles record

Clijsters once said Peng could

and attacking aggressively,

slightly chasing Li Na, who

slumps, with no real action in

be a Top 3 player. The past two

wearing ink on her chest

outshone her in last month’s

2009 to speak of. Meanwhile,

years have been rather quiet

to prove it. With a fearsome

US Open, her consistency – an

Zheng Jie’s singles career seems

for her on the singles front, but

backhand, she has strength and

improving singles career built on

to be ﬂourishing. Yan could use

the beginning of 2009 marked

power on her side. And unlike

the foundation of a strong doubles

that chip on her shoulder as a

a new apprenticeship under

her compatriots, she does not

record – puts momentum on

motivator. Or she can just sink

Tarik Benhabiles, who coached

play doubles.

her side.

further into Zheng’s shadow.

a young Andy Roddick.

100 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

www.thebeijinger.com

PHOTO: VLADSINGER

Li likes playing offense

BIKING Mountain-bikers of Beijing (The MOB) (beijingmob-owner@googlegroups.com) groups.google.com/group/beijingmob The Peloton (Trek Bikers and TriBeijing) (86 139 1028 0053, tom@cyclosportschina. com) www.cyclosportschina.com

BILLIARDS Ding Junhui Snooker Club 9am-3am. 4 Niwa Lu, Fengtai District. (5222 7856 or 5222 7857) 丁俊晖台球俱乐部, 丰台区丰台区泥洼路4号 East Forever Daily 24hours. 3/F, Tower B, Jingguo Mansion, Sidaokou, Haidian District. (6216 8000/9000) 海淀区四道口京果商厦B座3层 Pang Weiguo Billiards 24 hrs. Yong’an Dongli, Zhong Hai Bldg, Block 3, 4/F, Fengtai District. (8814 7147) 丰台区永安东里3号楼中海商厦四层 Tian Tong Shi Jia Snooker Club 24Hours. Floor 3, Bldg A, Genertime International Center, Yong An Dong Li, Chaoyang District. (5879 3631) 天瞳世家台球俱乐部, 朝阳区朝阳区永安东里通用时代国际中心 A座3层 Xuan Long Billiards Club Daily 24 hours. Minwang Hutong, Hepingli Dongjie, Dongcheng District. (6421 8868) 轩隆台球俱乐部, 东城区和平里东街民旺胡同9号 Xuanlong Pool Hall RMB 28/hr (snooker table), RMB 16/hr (billiard table). Daily 24 hours. 1) 9 Minwang Hutong, Hepingli Dongjie, Dongcheng District. (6421 8868); 2) 79B Hepingli Xijie, Dongcheng District. (8425 5566) 轩隆台球厅, 1) 东城区和平里东街民旺胡同9号; 2) 东城区和平里西街乙79号

BOWLING Cosmic Bowling Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, Lido Hotel, 6 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (6437 6688 ext 3801) 保龄球馆, 朝阳区将台路6号丽都饭店三层 Gongti 100 Daily 9am-1am. 6 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District. (6552 2688) 工体100, 朝阳区工体西路6号 Jade Palace Hotel Bowling Center Daily 10am-11pm. B1/F, Jade Palace Hotel, 76 Zhichun Lu, Haidian District. (6262 8888 ext 55080) 翠宫宾馆保龄球中心, 海淀区知春路76号翠宫宾馆地下1层

DANCING Beijing Tango (130 2195 8870, beijingtango@hotmail.com) http://groups. yahoo.com/group/TangoRen Casa de David 1pm-4am. 5/F, Yaxing Dasha, A46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6466 1606) www.salsafly.com 飞舞拉丁俱乐部, 朝阳区亮马桥路甲46号亚星大厦5层

Golden Dancing Academy 10/F, Chongwen Culture Center, 7 Chongwenmenwai Dajie, Chongwen District. Contact Mary (6708 9567/3267, ga888b@yahoo.com.cn) www. goldendancing.com 金池舞蹈学院, 崇文区崇文门外大街7号崇文区文化馆10层 Hidden Dreams A classy establishment with the possibility of tango and romance. Mon-Fri 9am-11pmi, Sat-Sun 11am-11pm. Zhangzizhong Lu number 3, Dongcheng District. (6403 0688) 东城区东城区张自忠路3号 J-Ballet School 1) Pulse Health Club, Kempinski Hotel, Lufthansa centre, 50 Liangmaqiao lu., Chaoyang District.; 2) 1/F, Bldg D, Jingxiu Yuan, Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (8453 3003; 138 0103 6364 (Ms. Takeda); 138 0113 5877 (Ms. Tang)) www.j-ballet.com J-芭蕾教室, 2)

info@iffc1994.com) www.iffc1994.com

Phoenix Dance 1) Room 1707, Building 4, 15 Zhenzhi road., Chaoyang District.; 2) 53 Mazidian Zhengjie., Chaoyang District. www.phoenix-dance.com

O’le Football Daily 9am-11pm. 5 Dongshimencun Lu, Baiziwan Qiao, Dongsihuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District. (6776 0608) 朝阳区东四环中路百子湾桥东石门村路5号

Pineapple Dance Studios Mon and Thurs 7.30-9pm. 3/F, Apartment A, Beijing Fortune Plaza, Chaoyang District. Contact CiCi (135 2035 2025) 菠萝舞蹈工作室, 朝阳区北京财富中心公寓A座3层

Women’s Football Contact Wenhui (8526 2420 ext 111, wf7788@yahoo.com.cn)

Pussycat Dance Mon-Thu 11am-9pm, SatSun 1-4pm. Rm906, Bldg 3, JianWai SOHO, Chaoyang District. (5900 0835, Eng: 139 1165 6059, pussycat-dance@hotmail.com) www.pussycat-dance.com 朝阳区建外SOHO 3号楼906室

Avid Golf Indoor Simulator Bldg. 3, Ste. 1502 Xinhualian Ligang, 26 Jiuxianqiao(near the Lido Hotel)., Chaoyang District. Contact Jeff Stone (+86 10 6436 3036, info@avidgolfchina.com) www.avidgolfchina.com

DRIVING

Beijing Cannes Golf Club Shuangqiao Donglu, Dingfuzhuang Nanqu, Chaoyang District. (8575 3959) 朝阳区定福庄南区双桥东路

Beijing CJ750 Sidecar Club Jingshun Lu and Laiguangying Lu, Homeware Lifestyle Village Mall, Chaoyang District. (139 1158 6021, beijingbiker@gmail.com) www. cj750.org 朝阳区来广营路路口京顺路3号院 Goldenport Motor Park Daily 9am-5pm. 1 Goldenport Dajie, Jinzhanxiang, Chaoyang District. (8433 4018) www.goldenport.com.cn 金港汽车公园, 朝阳区金盏乡金港大街1号 Offroader 4x4 Club 49 Xiqiqu, Wufang Tianya car parts factory., Chaoyang District. Contact Mr. Yan (6474 5595, 136 0137 8212, postmaster@offroader.com.cn) www.offroader.com.cn 越野者俱乐部, 朝阳区五方天雅汽配城西七区 Prema-Honway Formula Racing Team 1 Goldenport Jie, Jinzhanxiang, Chaoyang District. (8433 3884) www.honway.com.cn U-Speed Sports & Competition Co. Ltd Mon 11am-11pm, Tue-Thu 10am-11pm, Fri-Sat 10-12am, Sun 10am-10pm. Bldg8,Wufangt ianya,Wufang Lu, Chaoyang District. (6473 2548, info@u-speed.com) www.u-speed. com 朝阳区五方路五方天雅8号楼

EQUESTRIAN Asgard Horsemanship Club Shunhuang Lu, just west of Danshui Restaurant, Chaoyang District. (8459 5908) www.asgardacres.com.cn 亚萨园乡村俱乐部, 朝阳区顺黄路淡水餐厅西边 Beijing Green Equestrian Club 1 Loutaiduan, Wenyuhe, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development Zone, Shunyi District. (6457 7166) 北京格林马会, 顺义区天竺镇温榆河楼台段1号 Equuleus International Riding Club Tue-Sun 7am-noon, 2-6pm. 91 Shunbai Lu, Sunhe Town (north of and parallel to Xiang Jiang Beilu), Chaoyang District. (8459 0236, 6432 4947, equuleushorse@yahoo.com.cn) www. equriding.com 天星调良国际马术俱乐部, 朝阳区孙河镇顺白路91号香江北路北 Hanci Horse Riding Club Daily 9am-5pm. Tianlongyuan Spa, West of Xiguan Roundabout, Changping District. (136 7139 7716, biansl@126.com) 汉慈马术俱乐部, 昌平区西关环岛往西天龙园度假村 Sheerwood Beijing Equestrian Country Club Summer: Tue-Sun 7am-11am, 2pm6pm; Winter: Tue-Sun 8am-5pm. Picun Village, Jinzhanxiang, Chaoyang District. (8433 2217) 西坞北京马术俱乐部

FOOTBALL ClubFootball 9am-6pm. Unit A212, Door 3, A1 Zone, Huadeng Building, 14 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (5130 6893/4/5/6, coaching@wanguoqunxing. com) www.clubfootball.com.cn 万国群星足球俱乐部, 朝阳区酒仙桥路14号兆维华登大厦A1区3门212室 French l’Equipe Football Club Contact Mickael Perpoil (135 0102 4447, mickaelperpoil@yahoo.com) www.frenchlequipe.com.cn Ganluyuan Football Ganluyuan Nanli, Chaoyang District. (8575 7236) www. gfootballclub.com 朝阳区甘露圆南里二区球场 International Friendship Football Club (IFFC) Contact Robert (6234 7106,

GOLF

Beijing Country Golf Club Daily sunrise to sunset. West side of Chaobai River, Mapo chao., Shunyi District. (6940 1111, service@bccgolf.com) www.bccgolf.com 顺义区马坡潮白河西侧 Beijing Daxing Capital Golf Club Daily 8am-3pm. West end of Xingzheng Jie, Huangcun, Daxing District. (6121 6000) 大兴区黄村行政街西头 Beijing Fangzhuang Star Golf Club Sat-Sun noon-11pm, Mon- Fri 6.30pm-11pm. Bldg 11, 2 Fangxingyuan Xiaoqu, Fangzhuang, Fengtai District. (6760 7118, 6159 3979) Beijing Golf Club Daily sunrise to sunset. East bank of Chaobai River. Turn right from the Mapo exit of Dongliuhuan, 1km east of Beijing Country Golf Club, Shunyi District. (8947 0245/0005) 北京高尔夫球俱乐部, 顺义区马坡乡潮白河东岸 Beijing Golfers’ Club Contact Russell Probert (golf@pavillionbeijing.com) www. beijing-golfers-club.org Beijing Hongxi Changxin International Golf Club Daily sunrise-sunset. 8 Donghuan Beilu, Dongnan Wuhuan, Beijing Economy and Technology Development Zone, Daxing District. (6788 7252) 大兴区东南五环东环北路北京经济技术开发区 Beijing International Golf Club Open daily 8am, last tee time at 3pm. North of Ming Tombs Reservoir, Changping District. (6076 2288) 北京国际高尔夫俱乐部, 昌平区十三陵水库北侧 Beijing Jinghui Golf Club Daily sunrise-sunset. Qinglonghu Town, Fangshan District. (6032 2288) 北京京辉高尔夫俱乐部有限公司, 房山区青龙湖镇 Beijing Ladies Golf Club (beijingladiesgolf@yahoo.com.) www. beijingladiesgolf.org Beijing Legend Holiday Golf Club Daily 9am-9.30pm. 89 Shoudu Jichang Lu, Chaoyang District. (6456 0111) 朝阳区首都机场路89号 Beijing Meisong Golf Club Daily 8ammidnight. 10 Xinglong Xijie, Gaobeidian, Chaoyang District. (8575 3959) 北京美松高尔夫俱乐部, 朝阳区高碑店兴隆西街10号 Beijing Orient Tianxing Huapu Country Club Daily sunrise-sunset. Laiguangying Beilu, Chaoyang District. (8491 6192) 北京东方天星华普休闲健身俱乐部 Beijing Pine Valley International Golf Club Daily 8am-1.30pm (during holidays: 12.20-1.40pm. 2-4pm). Pine Valley Resort, Nankou Town, Changping District. (8528 8038) 昌平区南口镇华彬庄园内 Beijing Rivers and Resort Golf Training Academy Daily 7.30am-7.30pm. 1) 1A, West of Sunhe Beidian, Chaoyang District. (8046 5566); 2) Pinnacle Plaza, Shunyi District. (8046 5566) 1) 朝阳区孙河北店西甲1; 2) 顺义区天竺区日详广场 Beijing Tiangong Golf Club Daily 8am10pm. 500m west of Yuegezhuang Bridge, Jingshi Highway, Fengtai District. (8381 2582) 丰台区京石高速岳各庄桥西500米 Beijing Yiquan Golf Club Daily 8am-10pm. South of Yiquan Mountain Middle School, Haidian District. (6287 5990) 海淀区玉泉山南路

www.thebeijinger.com

CBD International Golf Club 99 Gaobeidian Lu, Chaoyang District. (6738 4809) 朝阳区高碑店路99号 Chaoyang Kosaido Golf Club Daily 7am10pm (summer only, closed in winter). 9A Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6501 8584) 广济堂高尔夫俱乐部, 朝阳区农展南路甲9号 Dongjin Golf Club Daily 9am-8.30pm. 5A Niuwangmiao, Xinyuan Jie (west of Sanyuan East Bridge), Chaoyang District. (6460 0193) Greystone Golf Center Daily 9am-9pm. 1 Xiangjiang Beilu, Chaoyang District. (8450 7173) 朝阳区香江北路1号 Longxi Wenquan Golf Club Daily 8am11pm. 8 Shunjing Lu, Panggezhuang., Daxing District. (8928 2288) 龙熙温泉俱乐部, 大兴区庞各庄顺景路8号 Meisong Golf Daily 7am-midnight. 10 Xinglong Xijie, Gaobeidian, Chaoyang District. (8575 5497, meisonggolf@hotmail. com) www.meisonggolf.com 美松高尔夫球俱乐部, 朝阳区兴隆西街10号 Moon River Country Club Golf Club Daily 7.30am-11pm. 1 Moon River Hebin Lu, Tongzhou District. (8952 3737 ext 6820, sales@moonriver.com.cn) www.moonriver. com.cn 月亮河乡村俱乐部高尔夫俱乐部, 通州区月亮河乡村俱乐部 PGA Golf Academy 9 Beihu Anwai, Chaoyang District. (6491 8888, golfacademy@bayhood9.com) 职业高尔夫球俱乐部 SGA Golf Coaching Center The SGA Golf Academy offers one-on-one golf coaching for children ages 5 and up from SGA-qualified, professional golf coaches. Lessons can be designed for children at beginner or intermediate levels. Instruction covers everything from the full grip and swing technique to golf etiquette and handicap calculation. Clubs are provided with a purchased package. RMB 6,500 (total 15 half-hour lessons). Other packages and lesson-combinations are available. 8am-8pm (summer); 9am-6pm (winter). Chaoyang Kosaido Golf Club, 9A Nongzhanguan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (6507 7389, 400 650 5169, info@sga-china. com) www.sga-china.com 朝阳区农展馆南路甲九号 Star City Golf Academy 6am-11pm. 5/F Xingcheng Dasha, 10 Jiushanqiao Lu (Southeast corner of Dashanzi Huandao), Chaoyang District. (8457 3665, 6434 2783) 星城国际高乐夫培训中心, 朝阳区酒仙桥路甲10号（大山子环岛东南角）星城国际大厦5层

HIKING & CAMPING Beijing Hikers Suite 1907, Building 107, Jiangfu Jiayuan, Tuofangying Lu, Jiuxianqiao, Chaoyang District. (139 1002 5516, 5137 4906, info@beijinghikers.com) www. beijinghikers.com 朝阳区酒仙桥驼房营路将府家园107号楼1907 Beijing U-DO Adventure Daily 9.30am-6pm. Rm 2-502, Bldg 8, Dong Hua Shi Nanli Dongqu, Chongwen District. (8710 3045, 139 1199 1873, udoadventure@hotmail. com) www.udoadventure.com 崇文区东花市南里东区8号楼2-502 Goose ‘n’ Duck Ranch Daily 24hours. Huairou Beizhai, Huairou District. (6067 1097) www.gdclub.net.cn 鹅和鸭, 怀柔区北寨

MARTIAL ARTS & BOXING Beijing Black Tiger @ Club Hero MonFri 8am-9.30pm, Sat 10am-6pm, Sun noon-6pm. Club Hero,Suite 110, Bldg D, Cable 8, 8 Langjiayuan, Jianguo Lu (West of Wanda Plaza), Chaoyang District. (8706 1940, 8656 7818, 8918 3249, 6581 5570, info@blacktigerclub.com, chet@graciechina.com) www.clubhero.cn 朝阳区建国路郎家园8号尚8创意产业园D座 110英雄馆万达广场西侧 Beijing Kendo Club Call for schedule. 3-1 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (139 1177 1871) 北京剑道同好会, 朝阳区亮马桥路3-1号 Beijing Milun School of Traditional Kung Fu

October 2009 / the Beijinger www. thatsbj.com Sept. 2005 101 that’smags

SPORTS & FITNESS

DanZ Centre 1) 10am-8pm. C/F, East Lake Villa, Dongzhimenwai Dajie, Dongcheng District.; 2) 2/F, Children’s Clubhouse, Yosemite Villas, 4 Yuyang Lu (West Gate of ISB), Chaoyang District. (8041 7745/7746) www.danzcentre.com 丹安丝舞蹈培训中心, 1) 东城区东直门外大街东湖别墅; 2) 朝阳区榆阳路4号优山美地别墅儿童俱乐部2层

朝阳区幸福村中路景绣园D座一层西侧

(139 1072 4987, daoist_gongfu@hotmail. com) www.kungfuinchina.com 北京弥纶传统武术学校 Beijing Seidokan Judo 49A, German Embassy School Beijing, Liangmaqiao Lu., Chaoyang District. (135 2184 7587, barilpekin@hotmail.com) www.judobeijing.com 正道馆, 朝阳区亮马桥路49号德国使馆学校 Beijing Sport University Daily 8.30am5pm. Zhonguancun Beidajie, Shangdi New Technological Development Zone, Haidian District. (6298 9341/9391, bupefso@sina. com) 北京体育大学, 海淀区上地新技术开发区中关村北大街 China Culture Center (CCC) Kent Center, 29 Anjialou, Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6432 9341/1041, info@chinaculturecenter.org) www.chinaculturecenter.org 朝阳区亮马桥路29号安家楼肯特中心院内 Jinghua Wushu Association F1, Pulse Health Club, Kempinski Hotel Apartment, 50 Liangmaqiao Lu., Chaoyang District. (6465 3388 ext 5721, 135 2228 3751, jinghuawushu@yahoo.com.cn) www.jinghuawushu.com 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店公寓地下1层都市脉搏俱乐部 MMA Beijing (Mixed Martial Arts Academy) 1st Floor, Building 16, Arts School Building., Haidian District. (info@mmabeijing. com) www.mmabeijing.com 海淀区东王庄小区，16号楼，美术学院一层. Tai Chi Workshop Wed 7-8pm. 1/F, Health Club, CTS Plaza, Sanyuanqiao, Chaoyang District. (130 0103 9563, heidihyshen@163. com) Tianyi Kung Fu Club Tue, Thu 7.30-9pm, Sun 3.30-5pm. Canadian International School, Gym B, 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (130 5113 8804, dateapot@hotmail.com) www.tianyikungfu.com 天一功夫 Wing Chun Kung Fu Class Around the Workers’ Stadium area, Chaoyang District. (131 2655 3900, wingchun.china@gmail. com) 朝阳区工体附近 Wuzhihun Martial Arts Ritan Park., Chaoyang District. (stone1000@vip.sina. com, stonejinglei@hotmail.com) www. dadehe.com 武之魂, 朝阳区日坛公园

MISC SPORTS Beijing Flying-man Club 5 Dadu Donglu, Chaoyang District. (6234 4230, 135 2023 0772, paratechx@yahoo.com) www.flyingman.com 北京飞人俱乐部 Beijing Sport University Daily 8.30am5pm. Zhonguancun Beidajie, Shangdi New Technological Development Zone, Haidian District. (6298 9341/9391, bupefso@sina. com) 北京体育大学, 海淀区上地新技术开发区中关村北大街

SPORTS & FITNESS

Beijing Volleyball (beijing_ volleyball@hotmail.com) Bibo 1) 2 Xingfu Dajie Nanli, Chongwen., Chongwen District. (010 6711 5446/010 6713 7447); 2) 22 Fuxing lu, Haidian., Haidian District. (010 5192 8102) 天龙碧波渔具 Dongfang Julong Archery Club Daily 2pm11pm. 5/F, Yangguang Baishang Cheng, 5-1 Anzhen Xili (300m north of Anzhen Hualian Department Store on the North Third Ring Road), Chaoyang District. (5123 7515) 东方巨龙射箭馆, 朝阳区安贞西里 5区1号阳光佰商城5层 (北三环安贞华联向北300米) Fenxing Fencing Club Mon-Fri 10am-last class, Sat-Sun 2.30-11pm. Beijing Film Academy, Building 3., Haidian District. (6492 9041, 130 5131 7611) www.fenxing. com 海淀区北京电影学院C教学楼110教室 Rainbow Radio-controlled Model Club 2/F, Chaoshifa supermarket, 73 Xueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District. (6211 5655) www. hobbyrb.com 飞彩虹模型, 海淀区学院街南路73号，超市发超市2楼 Star Trooper Laser Tag Wed-Fri 2-8pm, Sat-Sun 9am-8pm. B1, 316 Wangjing Xiyuan Sanqu, Chaoyang District. (6475 8329, wendy@startrooper.net) www.startrooper. net 激光搏击, 朝阳区望京西园三区316号

102 that’smags the 2005 Beijinger October 2009 Sept. www./ thatsbj.com

楼，地下一层

上运动中心, 朝阳区高碑店兴隆公园内

Superwing Paragliding Club Rm 2001, Rongshangju, Zhichun Lu, Haidian District. (6491 2233 ext 201, 136 0124 1119, superwing@sohu.com) 海淀区知春路荣上居2001室

Joyce Rink Daily 10am-9.30pm. B3, Xidan Culture Centre/77th Street, 108 Xidan Beidajie, Xicheng District. (6602 0050) www.skatingtime.com 西单喜悦溜冰场, 西城区西单北大街108号西单文化广场B3， 77街地下广场

Tianlang Hot Air Balloon Club Maying village, Yanqing County. (6170 0750, 138 0123 7203) 天狼热气球俱乐部, 延庆县马营村

RACQUET SPORTS Beijing International Badminton Club Contact John Ho (johnsk_ho@hotmail.com) Beijing Tennis Center 1 Guangcai Lu, Fengtai District. (6721 1580) 光彩体育中心网球场, 丰台区光彩路1号 Beijing Tennis Club Contact Daniel (135 0105 9590, daniel.foa@gmail.com) www. tennisrank.com GS Tennis 1) Golden Luck Age Tennis Center, 2 Dongwei Xilu, Chaoyang District. (8478 6866, info@gs-academy. com); 2) 1 Xiedao Road, Chaoyang District., Chaoyang District. (010 8433 5608, info@gs-academy.com) www.gs-academy. com Kerry Sports Daily 6am-11pm. Kerry Centre Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District. (6561 8833 ext 6465, hbkc@shangri-la.com) 嘉里健身, 朝阳区光华路1号嘉里中心酒店 Tennis Fans Club (box4queen@yahoo.com)

RUGBY Aardvarks Rugby Club Contact Dave (135 2224 8133, aardvarksrfc@yahoo.com) 地豚橄榄球俱乐部 Beijing Brothers RFC (liza_ gabina@pngembassy.org.cn) Beijing Devils Mixed Touch Rugby Football (touch@beijingdevils.com) www.beijingdevils.com Beijing Devils Rugby Football Club (beijing_rugby@yahoo.com) www.beijingdevils.com Beijing Rugby Referees Society (beijing. rugby.refs@gmail.com) Loong Bang Rugby Football Club XXXXXXXXXX

RUNNING & TRAINING Beijing Hash House Harriers Contact Dave “Minime” White (beijinghhhowner@yahoogroups.com) www.hash. cn, www.groups.yahoo.com/groups/beijinghhh Triathlon Beijing (TriBeijing) (tribeijing@gmail.com) www.tribeijing.org

SAILING Beijing Sailing Centre (15 00 118 9580, 335 856 0916, enquiries@beijingsailing.com) www.beijingsailing.com Gold Sailing Daily 10am-10pm. 81A Houhai Xiyan, Xicheng District. (6401 2664) 北京金帆运动俱乐部, 西城区后海西沿甲1号

SKATING & HOCKEY Beijing International Ice Hockey (peking_ puck@yahoo.com) www.beijinghockey. com

Le Cool Daily 10am-10pm. B2/F, China World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6505 5776, lecool@cwtc.com) www.lecoolicerink.com 国贸溜冰场, 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸地下2层 Zhongtiao Curling Arena 9 Zhengqian Xijie (take Jing-Cheng Expressway and exit at Kuang Gou), Huairou District. (6965 9411) 中体奥冰壶运动中心, 怀柔区府前西街9号

SKI RESORTS Qiaobo Ice and Snow World Daily 9am10pm. Inside Chaobai River National Forest Park, Mapo, Shunyi District. (8497 2568) www.qbski.com 乔波冰雪世界, 顺义区马坡潮白河国家森林公园内6号

SWIMMING China World Hotel Daily 6am-11pm. 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District. (6505 2266 ext 33, cwh@shangri-la.com) www.shangri-la.com 中国大饭店, 朝阳区建国门外大街1号 DHY Wed and Sun 8pm. China World Hotel, No.1 Jianguomenwai Avenue., Chaoyang District. (6505 2266) 博雅员会所, 朝阳区中国北京建国门外大街1号 Doubletree by Hilton Beijing Pool 168 Guang’anmen Waidajie,Xuanwu., Xuanwu District. (6338 1888) www.beijing. doubletree.com Grand Millenium Pool 7 East Third Ring Road, Middle Road., Chaoyang District. (8587 6888) www.millenniumhotels. com/cn/grandmillenniumbeijing 朝阳区东三环中路7号. Holiday Inn Lido Health Club Daily 4.30am11pm. 6 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District. (6437 6688 ext 1871, bc@hilb.net.cn) 北京丽都假日饭店游泳馆, 朝阳区将台路6号 Park-Hyatt Indoor Pool 2 Jianguomenwai, Yintai Center., Chaoyang District. (8567 1234) www.beijing.park.hyatt.com 朝阳区建国门外大街2号. Ritz-Carlton Financial Street Fitness Center 1 Jinchengfang Street East,Xidan/Financial Street., Xicheng District. (6601 6666) www.ritzcarlton.com/hotels/beijing_financial 西城区金城坊东街1号. Shangri-La Beijing Pool 29 Zizhuyuan Lu., Haidian District. (6841 2211) www. shangri-la.com 海淀区紫竹院路29号. Sino-Japanese Youth Center Daily 9am9pm. 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District. (6468 3311) 朝阳区亮马桥路40号 Splash Recreation Club Daily 6am-10pm. Sino-Swiss Hotel, 9 Xiao Tianzhu Nanlu, Shunyi District. (6456 5588 ext 1217) www. sino-swisshotel.com 浪花俱乐部, 顺义区小天竺南路9号国都大饭店 Westin Chaoyang Indoor Swimming Pool No.1 Xinyuan Nanlu., Chaoyang District. (5922 8888)

TEAM & CLUB SPORTS Beijing Cricket (info@bjcricketclub.org) www.bjcricketclub.org 北京板球俱乐部

Beijing Street Hockey Sat 2-5pm. Ta Yuan Diplomatic Compound, 1 Xindong Lu (located one block north of the Canadian Embassy), Chaoyang District. Contact Darren (damooreasia@yahoo.com) 朝阳区新东路1号塔园外交公寓

Beijing Football Club (135 1625 1141, beijingfooty@yahoo.com) www.beijingbombers.cn

Ezone Club Daily 1-7pm. Fangzhuang Sport Center, west of Carrefour, Fengtai District. (6763 14510 ext 8007, 136 0119 0802, 3863@vip.sina.com) www.ezonesk8. com

Beijing Hockey Club (bjhockeyclub@hotmail.com) beijingfieldhockeyclub.spaces.live.com

Hosa Skating Center Daily 8.30am-8.30pm. Inside Xinglong Gongyuan, Gaobei Dian, Chaoyang District. (8576 7388, jianghui12479959@yahoo.com.cn) 浩沙冰

www.thebeijinger.com

Beijing Gaelic Football Club (beijingaa@yahoo.com) www.beijinggaa. net 北京盖尔人运动家协会

Beijing Sport and Social Club (Beijing SSC) (beijingssc@gmail.com) www.beijingssc. com Beijing Ultimate Frisbee (136 0103 6430, contact@beijingultimate.com) www.bei-

jingultimate.com, http://groups.google. com/group/beijing-ultimate Brothers in Baseball Contact Walker (139 1066 8946, walker@march3.com.cn) Women’s Lacrosse Contact Fiona (135 5203 8947)

VENUES Beijing Shooting Range Hall 3A Futiansi (take the West Fifth Ring Road and exit at either Xingshikou Qiao or Yongyin Qiao, turn onto Xiangshan Nanlu and follow signs), Shijingshan District. (8896 7894) 北京射击馆, 石景山区福田寺甲3号 (西五环外的香山南路上，在杏石口桥和永引桥之间，走西五环，在杏石口桥或者永引桥出口上香山南路，根据指示牌行驶即到) National Aquatics Center Olympic Green, Beichen Lu, Chaoyang District. 国家游泳中心, 朝阳区北辰路奥林匹克公园 National Indoor Stadium Olympic Green, Beichen Lu (Inside Olympic Green, northwest corner of the Datun Lu and Beichen Donglu intersection), Chaoyang District. 国家体育馆, 朝阳区北辰路奥林匹克公园 (奥林匹克公园内，大屯路和北辰东路十字路口西北角) National Stadium (Bird’s Nest) Olympic Green, Beichen Lu, Chaoyang District. (8437 299293) 国家体育场, 朝阳区北辰路奥林匹克公园 Olympic Green Tennis Center Olympic Green, Beichen Lu (Inside Olympic Green, 300m south of Lincui Qiao, North Fifth Ring Road, east side of the street), Chaoyang District. 奥林匹克公园网球中心, 朝阳区北辰路奥林匹克公园 (奥林匹克公园内，北五环林萃桥向南300米路东) Workers’ Gymnasium Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6501 6300) 工人体育馆, 朝阳区工体北路 Workers’ Stadium Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6501 6655 ext 5033) 工人体育场, 朝阳区工体北路 Wukesong Arena Wukesong Cultural and Sports Center, Haidian District. 五棵松篮球馆, 海淀区五棵松文化体育中心

YOGA & PILATES Alona Pilates Studio 7.30am - 9.30pm. F/5, Heavenly Spa, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District. (139 1029 0260, voselena@hotmail.com) www.alonastudiobeijing.com 朝阳区新源南路一号5层 Bikram Hot Yoga with Huiping Mo Daily 10am-6.45pm. 5/F, Bldg E, Pacific Century Place, 2A Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District. (6539 3434, 139 1051 3285) bikramyogabeijing.googlepages.com PCC盈科会所, 朝阳区工体北路甲2号盈科中心E座5层 Fine Yoga Daily 7am-9pm. Kids’ yoga on Sundays 2-3pm. Rm 501, 5/F, Bldg A, Soho New Town, 88 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District. (8589 6474, 5900 3192, 139 1176 7521) www.fine-yoga.com 梵音瑜珈, 朝阳区建国路88号Soho现代城A座501室 Mountain Yoga 6 Gongzhufen Cun, Fragrant Hills, Haidian District. (6259 6702, 139 0102 1322, info@mountainyoga.cn) www.mountainyoga.cn 山地瑜珈 Nirvana Yoga Center Daily 9.30am-9pm. 2A, Unit 5, Shijicheng, Yuanda Lu (100m south of the Golden Resource Shopping Mall), Haidian District. (5198 0591) 青鸟瑜伽, 海淀区远大路世纪城5单元2A（世纪金源购物中心南100米） OM Yoga 42 Rooms 9102/9103, Lido Apartment Bldg, Chaoyang District. (6437 8810) www.omyoga42.com.cn 静心堂, 朝阳区丽都公寓9102-9103 Yoga Yard Mon-Thu 7.15am-9.30pm, FriSun 7.15am-8pm. 6/F, Bldg 17 Gongti Beilu (across from the north gate of Workers’ Stadium), Chaoyang District. (6413 0774, info@yogayard.com) www.yogayard.com 瑜珈苑, 朝阳区工体北路17号楼6层工人体育场北门对面 Yogi Yoga Daily 9am-8pm. Mini-golf center, North gate of Ritan Gongyuan, Chaoyang District. (8561 5506/5507) www. yogiyogacenter.com 悠季瑜珈, 朝阳区日坛公园南门，迷你高尔夫中心