Local Libations Tasty Beverage Co.
Field to Table with Biltmore
Vol. 3, No. 2
Homestyle Italian
at Chiesa
heirloom tomatoes PLUS
SUMMER 2016 FoodLifeMag.com
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features SUMMER 2016 VOL. 3 • NO. 2
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I N PRA ISE OF PA STA
Melissa and Robert Willingham of Chiesa pay reverence to Italian classics in their church-turnedrestaurant. by MAGGIE CRAMER
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I M LAD R IS FA RMS
Imladris Farm’s new Smoked Ketchup highlights regional collaboration. by JOSH O’CONNER
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BI LT M ORE: FI ELD- TO-TA B LE AT ITS B EST
Biltmore’s Public Relations Manager, Marissa Jamison, discusses the estate’s extensive farm & agricultural programs. by NOAH ROBINS
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DO N ’T KNOW B EA NS?
Slow Food Asheville offers heirloom bean giveaway. by PETER KENT
HEI RLO OM TOMATOES TAST E L IK E HOME
Heirloom variety tomatoes conjure nostalgic memories for many. by SHANE MAXSON
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VOL. 3 NO. 2
S UM M E R 2 0 1 6 Local Libations Tasty Beverage Co.
Field to Table with Biltmore
O N THE CO V ER Garden-fresh heirloom tomatoes in many colors and shapes. Photo by Tim Robison
Vol. 3, No. 2
Homestyle Italian
at Chiesa
STAY CO NNECTED
heirloom tomatoes
FoodLifeMag.com facebook.com/foodlifemag PLUS
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recipes restaurants & more!
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the guide ASAP FA R M TO UR 19 This June the gates and barns of WNC opened to the public for the annual ASAP Farm Tour. EXCELLEN CE UN CO R KED 26 There is a wide variety of high quality NC wines on the market. by PAUL JONES G LASS O N I O N : G LO BAL I TALI A N 28 There’s something for everyone at this Weaverville favorite. by TIFFANY WELSH
HO ST A TO M ATO TA STI N G PAR TY & SEED EXCHA N G E 30 Start a new tradition tradition this summer.
ASHEV I LLE’S FO O D TR UCK SCE NE 32 6 Unique facets of Asheville’s growing food truck scene. by STU HELM
SHO PPI N G LO CAL M A R KET S 34 Be prepared with these quick shopping tips. CO O KB O O K R EVIE W 36 What to expect from upcoming cookbooks by two of Asheville’s most popular chefs. LO CAL LI BATI O NS 38 Summer recommendations from Tasty Beverage Co.
recipes FR I ED G R EEN TO M ATO ES 24 TO M ATO JAM 42
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EDITOR’S LETTER EVERY SUMMER, I revel in the abundance of local food available to us - squash, blackberries, blueberries, beans, and definitely tomatoes! One of the things I really love about my job is getting to learn so much about each ingredient. Every issue, we focus on a special ingredient from the region and explore every nook and cranny of what restaurants, artisans and farmers alike are doing to utilize it to the fullest. Well, with tomatoes, it’s really not hard to find someone willing to cook them, grow them or eat them. Most people have their favorites - Cherokee Purple, Brandywine, Green Zebra, the Mortgage Lifter...I could go on and on. The real challenge with this issue was fitting in all the delicious flavors of Summer. We talked to the owners of Chiesa about the Italian Gravy that really brings their dishes to life. We learn about the business of gourmet ketchup from the owners of Imladris Farms. We even find out why Salt and Smoke’s Josiah McGaughey loves local tomatoes. There is so much more to share, but you’ll just have to peek inside to see for yourself. Now in our third year of publication, Food Life has made so many friends in the local community - from writers like Stu Helm or Ashley English to restaurant owners, farmers and more. We want to take a minute to say thanks to everyone who contributes to our magazine, our advertisers, our 300+ distribution partners and especially our readers who have made us feel so loved. Speaking of advertisers, if you enjoy Food Life, please make sure to support our advertisers and tell them you heard about them in Food Life. It’s through the support of the local community that we are able to keep providing you with delicious free content season after season. We will be back with another tasty issue in the Fall, but if you need another helping before then stop by and see us at one of the many events we’ll be attending (full event calendar on page 40) or follow me on Instagram at @avlfoodie for behind the scenes photos, event recaps and even more recipes. Dig in y’all!
EDITOR twelsh@iwanna.com 6
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General Manager/Publisher PATRICIA MARTIN BETTS Editor TIFFANY WELSH Art Director CARRIE HARDER Production/IT Manager JEFF RUMINSKI Contributors PHILIP BOLLHOEFER CHELSEA LANE PHOTOGRAPHY MAGGIE CRAMER STU HELM PAUL JONES PETER KENT DEBI MANFRE SHANE MAXSON JOSH O’CONNER NOAH ROBINS TIM ROBISON Advertising Consultants PAM HENSLEY RICK JENKINS ROSE LUNSFORD CRYSTAL PRESSLEY Production DAVID DENTON DEBI MANFRE RACHEL HOEFT RANDY WHITTINGTON Distribution Manager SAM HOWELL A Publication of
I WA NN A P UB L I C AT I ON S 2 2 G A R F I E L D STR E E T, SUI TE 100 A S H E VI L L E , N C 28803 828. 210. 0340 Food Life, a publication of IWANNA, has accepted contributions which may not reflect the opinion of the publisher. No portion of Food Life may be reproduced without permission of the publisher.
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In Praise of Pasta
Melissa & Robert Willingham of Chiesa pay reverence to Italian classics in their church-turned-restaurant by MAGGIE CRAMER photos by TIM ROBISON
How the Plant chef and owner came to value humane eating and hard work. by MAGGIE CRAMER
by TIM ROBISON 8photographs FOODLIFEMAG.COM | SUMMER 2016
photographs by TIM ROBISON
VIEW THE MENU AT CHIESAAVL.COM
EVERY MORNING AT 7:45, Shawn Powell rolls in to Chiesa and sets to rolling out pasta dough, which he forms into orecchiette, fettuccine, angel hair, ravioli, lasagna sheets, you name it. By 3pm, he’ll have made enough fresh pasta to feed each customer who orders it that day. It’s a task Melissa Willingham, who owns the restaurant with her husband, Robert, knows all too well would be impossible were he making the noodles how she did growing up. As a child in an Italian family, she made fresh pasta regularly. She and her mother and sister would even make cappelletti, dough that’s intricately folded and twisted to resemble a tiny hat. “It would take us half a day to make 100 pieces and just 20 minutes for everyone to eat them,” she jokes. Their only tools? Rolling pins, shot glasses to get the perfect circle, and their six hands. No doubt that’s why she’s not only thankful Shawn’s up for the task, but also that the restaurant has an Italian table-top machine—and a top-of-theline one at that. “That machine makes such beautiful sheets of lasagna,” she gushes. “They’re so thin we have to double up!”
The Name’s the Thing Melissa’s comfort handing over the pasta reins shows just how much confidence she has in her team—which also
“
We make dishes that your Italian grandmother might have cooked. includes Nick DeSorbo, Joseph Farmer, Sheri DeGeorge, and Zak Carroll— to successfully recreate her beloved family recipes. After all, she and Robert opened the eatery as a testament to her Italian heritage, so a lot’s on the
line with each dish. Her trust is also evidence of Chiesa’s mission in action: to build a name-driven, not chef-driven, restaurant. Meaning, the restaurant’s name itself gets the focus over its chef’s, and the whole team gets the credit for the dishes that leave the kitchen. They see nothing wrong with the other approach, which they point out is often taken by innovative restaurants pushing the dining envelope; it’s just not who they are. “We’re not trying to be high-end Italian,” Robert says. “No foam, no sous vide. We make dishes that your Italian grandmother might have cooked—that have been around for hundreds of years and will be around hundreds of years.” To be sure, the couple chose Asheville in part for its thriving culinary scene when they moved here four years ago. They relocated from Baltimore, Maryland, where they owned a Mexican restaurant—the two restaurant worlds aren’t as different as you may think; like Chiesa with its pasta, their Maryland eatery focused on pressing and producing fresh tortillas. While they love being part of this food-focused city, they simply aren’t trying to compete with the well-known hot spots. “We just really wanted to have a neighborhood, family place,” Robert shares. Speaking of place, it took them more than a year to find the perfect location outside of downtown, which SUMMER 2016 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM
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FEATURE C HI E S A
they ultimately did in a more than 100-year-old church at 152 Montford Avenue. And that’s how they settled on the name they hope is on the tip of folks’ tongues: Chiesa means “church” in Italian. In a nod to its history, they repurposed pews into seating, and the sweets section of their menu encourages an “Amen” to finish the meal.
It’s All Gravy, Baby Chiesa will celebrate its two-year anniversary this October, and they say the former church has been a perfect backdrop to their simple, honest menu. Simplicity, Robert says, is the beauty of Italian cooking and has been their goal from the outset. “We do simple, basic food really well with the best local stuff we can get our hands on.” Their sauce, or gravy as the Italians call it, is classic and straightforward. But, it does have its special somethings. And even though Melissa lets her team handle almost the entire menu, she’s the one in charge of the sauce—the making and eating of which could almost be called a, well, spiritual experience for Italian cooks and diners alike. “People come in and want the sauce every time,” she notes. That’s why, even though they love using fresh local tomatoes on the menu as much as possible, they use canned tomatoes from California for their gravy base. “The consistency just wouldn’t be there with 10
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fresh.” Melissa stresses that the brand they purchase is less acidic than some others. Because of that and a few family secrets, those who frequently get heartburn from a traditional red sauce have been known to eat Chiesa’s gravy up. Perhaps surprisingly, she’s actually willing to spill the beans about those secrets: “Skimming is the key,” she says decisively. With constant skimming, she shares, the acid that rises to the top of the pot gets removed. While it’s simmering away for hours and hours, Melissa throws in a carrot—cut with little slits—as her family always said it helped absorb the acid. She finishes with a touch of honey to balance it all out. The gravy gets ladled on countless dishes, including their spinach ravioli, which Robert calls their signature dish, and their eggplant Parmesan.
Straight From Sicily This fall, both Melissa and Robert will head to Sicily—where her great-grandparents, Antonina and Guiseppe, were born—to do the tough job of market research. They’ll begrudgingly, they say with a heavy dose of sarcasm, enjoy meal after meal to discover new recipes for Chiesa’s menu. Although they won’t be passed down from her family, they’ll be recipes passed down through many generations. Melissa says she’s
looking for even more simplistic ingredients to spotlight, ones that perhaps people aren’t as familiar with here in the states—think sardines. They’ll also visit wineries for new bottles to add to their small, carefully curated—and well-loved—list of Italian imports. “Many of the wines on our list you won’t see anyplace else,” Robert notes, who adds they’re all from small producers. In fact, some are so small they don’t even have a vineyard tasting room. Their wine distributor discovered a tiny vineyard in Randazzo near Mount Etna where tastings happen right in the winemaker’s kitchen. Melissa and Robert loved this wine so they plan to visit the same vineyard and meet the family on their upcoming trip. Ultimately, that’s the type of laidback, rustic experience they hope they’re creating at Chiesa. Armed with inspiration from abroad, they plan to go into next year with new recipes. But, they promise, they’ll keep using simple local ingredients for homestyle dishes, abiding by what Robert jokes is the rule of Italian cooking: “Don’t muck it up!” MAGGIE CRAMER is an Ashevillebased freelance writer, editor, and communications specialist. She can be reached at mcramerwrites@gmail.com
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FEATURE IM L A D R I S FA R M
Imladris Farm’s Smoked Ketchup Highlights Regional Collaboration by JOSH O’CONNER
WHILE ASHEVILLE’S IMLADRIS FARM jams and preserves have long been something to rave about, they’ve recently transitioned their business model to expand beyond their traditional flavors into select seasonal offerings. Their Smoked Ketchup is a product of that transition. The ketchup utilizes tomatoes sourced from Wilson Family Farms smoked in the Hickory Nut Gap Farm’s smoker before being cooked and processed in the Imladris Farm’s kitchen. Imladris’s expansion of product offerings emerged as they moved from their origins as a farm selling jams created from their own fruit to sourcing fruits and vegetables from other local growers. Owner Walter Harrill notes, “I’ve realized that my role is to focus on products made from local fruit, but not necessarily grown by me, with the farm as one of several steady suppliers for our products.” This new outlook gave Harrill a wider bounty of produce within WNC as a source of inspiration for new culinary treats. The initial efforts took advantage of regional offerings of grapes and strawberries before flirting with the margins of their existing product line with a seasonal pumpkin butter. The drive to take advantage of regional fruits eventually lead Harrill to consid12
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er WNC’s abundant tomato crop as an element which could be incorporated into a unique, regional product. After witnessing the success that Kelly Davis, founder of Lusty Monk Mustards, had experienced with condiments, Harrill began to consider his own possibilities. Harrill notes, “Who’d a thunk you could make a living off of condiments? She did it, she did it with style and flair, and I’m a shameless idea thief.” Harrill also cites Charles Hudson and Sunburst Trout Farm’s smoked tomato jam as being instrumental in his creative thinking process. Struck with the powerful flavor combination, Harrill began working toward ketchup. He speaks highly of the support that he’s received from both Davis and Hudson explaining the value of their assistance in his efforts to revamp his business model. Harrill is generous in articulating the role that others have played in bringing the smoked ketchup to market. Among those aiding in the development of the ketchup he list his kitchen staff, each graduates from the A-B Tech Culinary Arts program. In particular, he highlights the role that Kim Walton plays in bringing products to fruition. Walton is responsible for taking Harrill’s vague descriptions of tastes he’s pursuing and creating a product that achieves both
Harrill’s goals and consumer appeal. A longstanding relationship with Amy and Jamie Ager of Hickory Nut Gap Farm allowed Harrill to advance beyond the primitive oil drum pig cooker that he was prototyping for his smoking process. Using Hickory Nut Gap Farm’s in-house smoker allowed him to clear food safety regulation hurdles and provided a far more practical means of production beyond his smallscale experiments. Wilson Family Farm, a staple of the Fairview farming community, served as a natural partner given that they produce a large quantity of the main ingredient within close proximity to both Imladris Farms and Hickory Nut Gap Farm. Harrill underscores the importance of relationships with farms through creating a sales channel that pays fair prices even for produce that might be cosmetically unsuitable for retail sale. When it comes to sourcing, Harrill is focused on the quality of the flavors, “We’re able to work with local growers in a way that empowers them to go get top dollar for their best quality product, while knowing that we will take product that didn’t sell, fruit that got damaged by hail storms, etc.” Imladris has enjoyed a warm response to the smoked ketchup and plans to broaden the market as they
FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT IMLADRISFARM.COM move into the future. Given the similarities that the smoked ketchup has with their existing jams and preserves, Harrill finds that it meshes well with both the existing production model and product line. Harrill notes that Imladris is adding other flavors on a seasonal level. While he’s unsure of what they may venture into next, he’s excited about branching out. Harrill is democratic about his approach to new flavors saying, “The ketchup is the only one of the new flavors presently slated to stay on the year round product list, though I’m always open to folks’ input.” The term ketchup undersells Imladris’s take on the staple condiment, which packs a flavorful punch while relying on simplistic ingredients like tomatoes, onions, cider vinegar, cinnamon, and garlic rather than chemical concoctions. The flavor and texture
of the smoked ketchup is positioned somewhere between tomato gravy, apple butter, and conventional ketchup. The nuance and subtlety it brings provides a clear accent to foods rather than the standard overwhelmingly sweet acidity. At the moment, Imladris’ Smoked Ketchup is available at a handful of small local purveyors due to its artisanal nature. You can buy the ketchup direct from Imladris at the North Asheville Tailgate Market, their street cart on Wall Street most weekend mornings, or on their website (imladrisfarm.com). It’s also available at Merry Wine Market in Black Mountain, the Hickory Nut Gap Farm store, Asheville Direct, Mother Earth Produce, & The Chop Shop. JOSH O’CONNER is an urban/ land use planner for food and urban agriculture.
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FIELD-TO-TABLE AT ITS BEST photos courtesy of THE BILTMORE COMPANY
Noah Robins sat down with Biltmore’s Public Relations Manager, Marissa Jamison, to discuss the extensive farm & agriculture programs at America’s largest private residence. BILTMORE is the single largest draw for visitors to Asheville each year and is well-known for its monumental home, gorgeous gardens and diverse collection of on-estate activities. Touring George Vanderbilt’s masterpiece is just the start of a full Biltmore experience; visitors can taste wine at the Biltmore Winery, stay in one of the two on-estate hotels, take horseback rides or Segway tours, book a fly fishing or clay shooting excursion, or make use of the many miles of walking, hiking and biking trails that snake through the property. Locals get in on the action as well; a Biltmore annual pass allows individuals and families vir14
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tually unlimited access to the estate and its attractions, as well as reduced prices on for-fee activities. Recently, Biltmore has garnered even more attention for its range of first-rate dining options and a firm commitment to farm-to-table principles and practice. While delivering organic produce to the estate for my family’s farm several years back, I would frequently meet with the Biltmore executive chef for planning meetings about produce availability, the varieties and quantities we expected to have on hand, and most importantly the quality of the squash, greens and tomatoes that would end up in Biltmore’s kitchens. Most com-
FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT BILTMORE.COM monly our deliveries would be met by the chef himself, who was quite willing to praise or critique (kindly) the produce on offer. This diligence and attention to detail lives on. In an extensive conversation with Marissa Jamison, Biltmore’s Public Relations Manager, I got the inside scoop about Biltmore’s unique take on farm-to-table and the many excellent dining options available for visitors to the estate. Particularly striking is the degree to which chefs and managers coordinate their efforts to provide an authentic and well-rounded experience for diners.
and agriculture has remained an important constant of life at Biltmore to the present day. The descendants of George Vanderbilt, the present-day owners of Biltmore, have built on that original vision of a self-sufficient estate. Today, the family carries on the farm legacy with our vineyard, Biltmore Winery that is housed in what was formerly the dairy barn, a produc-
How does Biltmore think about farm to table – is there a broader philosophy behind local and farm-raised food in the estate’s restaurants and in its other catering and food service departments? From the beginning, it was George Vanderbilt’s intention that Biltmore be a self-sustaining estate. After visiting working estates in Europe, George Vanderbilt envisioned building his Asheville home on a foundation of self-sustainability. Soon he had a dairy that was the centrepiece of Biltmore’s agriculture program and one of the largest dairy operations in the southeast. Vanderbilt also had an estate producing meat, poultry, fruits, and vegetables for use in Biltmore House’s kitchens. Original Biltmore livestock varieties and crops included Jersey cattle, Southdown sheep, angora goats, Berkshire hogs, turkeys, laying hens, ducks, pheasants, quail, forage and grain crops, vegetables and beehives. Biltmore’s mission is preservation,
to table” restaurant, is there an effort to incorporate seasonal produce and special items into menu selections at other locations? Biltmore has seven sit-down restaurants on property and all of those restaurants serve estate-raised products. Biltmore chefs meet every winter to plan for the upcoming year. Each chef places orders for their respective restaurant and those orders are manipulated based on the fixed amount of product that will be available. Chefs decide amongst themselves who is going to get what product. In regard to planning, Biltmore’s Director of Agri-
Tucked away on the west side of the estate, away from guest traffic, Biltmore’s production farm supplies estate restaurants with fresh herbs, seasonal fruits and berries, and a variety of vegetables.
tion garden and greenhouse, Angus and Wagyu cattle, South African White Dorper sheep, and swine. Biltmore also recently restored George Vanderbilt’s turn-of-the-century brooder house used for raising chicken eggs, and on occasion quail eggs.
How much control do chefs at each of the dining locations have over their menus? While the Bistro appears to be the main “farm
culture Ted Katsigianis says, “we have a model in place, as Biltmore has had a fieldto-table program for many years now.” Biltmore’s Field-to-Table Manager Eli Herman manages all aspects of Biltmore’s production garden. Chefs have frequent meetings with Eli to discuss menus and ongoing needs for the freshest seasonal vegetables. Eli also regularly works with estate chefs to solicit feedback on new products they want to experiment with on menus. The estate’s Director of Agriculture manages estate raised meats and works with chefs on orders for specific cuts of estate-raised beef, lamb, poultry, and swine. SUMMER 2016 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM
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FEATURE
B ILTM O R E : F I E L D - TO - TA B L E
How much of Biltmore’s farming operation output ends up on diners’ tables? Everything Biltmore produces goes exclusively to our restaurants (Biltmore does raise some breeding stock animals that are sold, but that is a separate venture and those animals are not intended to provide food to the estate). Biltmore is one of the largest attractions in North Carolina. We welcomed 1.4 million guests to the estate last year, so Biltmore is not able to produce the volume of food necessary for the demand. To supplement our field-to-table program, Biltmore has many partnerships with farmers in Western North Carolina for locally-sourced trout, cheese, beef, and pork for our restaurants. Our chefs only use seasonal, fresh products from the estate. For instance, our meats are never frozen. Products are planned and raised in the spring through the holiday season so our chefs receive everything fresh. The “specials” menus at estate restaurants incorporate the majority of seasonal ingredients. Deliveries from our production garden are made to estate kitchens weekly. Chefs receive products such as butternut squash, microgreens, lettuces, radishes, beets, carrots, spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, Swiss chard, herbs, blackberries, raspberries and more. The production garden also features a greenhouse where we start some of the seedlings for field production. The more controlled atmosphere of the greenhouse also allows us to grow micro-greens, hydroponic lettuce, herbs and even edible flowers.
What should diners expect from a restaurant experience on the estate, and what else is important to know about Biltmore and food and drink? Estate dining options range from walkup barbeque to fine dining, so there is truly something for everyone. In addition to the cuisine, there is just as much variance from restaurant-to-restaurant 16
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in ambiance too – from white linen table cloths and crystal to a 19th-century stable transformed into a delicious café where guests dine in renovated horse stalls! Visit this page for more info on the estate’s dining options: biltmore.com/visit/things-to-do/dining. Biltmore tickets or an annual pass
are required to visit all restaurants on the estate. And keep an eye out for special food & wine events here: biltmore.com/events. NOAH ROBINS, a native of Madison County, grew up on a farm and is passionate about all things local, particularly food and drink.
SIT-DOWN RESTAURANTS AT • VILLAGE SOCIAL (Antler Hill Village & Winery) HANDCRAFTED CUISINE
FEATURING SEAFOOD Gather at Village Social in the new Village Hotel to relax
with friends over signature cocktails and enjoy share plates as you design the next day’s adventure.
• BISTRO (Antler Hill Village & Winery) SEASONAL FARM TO TABLE FARE Estate-raised and regionally sourced ingredients are expertly crafted by our chefs in this vibrant, casual setting that embodies the charm of Europe. Watch the chefs prepare meals in our open kitchen.
• CEDRIC’S TAVERN (Antler Hill Village & Winery) GLOBAL PUB FARE En-
joy satisfying pub fare alongside robustly-flavored American and global cuisine, craft beers, spirits, and Biltmore wines. Unwind with our full bar, live music in the evening, and outdoor seating.
• DEERPARK RESTAURANT
(Deerpark) TASTE OF THE SOUTH BUFFET
Mouth-watering Southern regional cuisine served buffet-style in a peaceful, natural setting.
• THE DINING ROOM (The Inn on Biltmore Estate) REFINED ELEGANT DIN-
ING Experience expertly prepared cuisine with world-class service inspired by
the Vanderbilts. White linen tablecloths, Vanderbilt china, and crystal add to the luxury of savoring carefully executed meals.
• LIBRARY LOUNGE (The Inn on Biltmore Estate) RELAXED ELEGANCE En-
joy a delicious offering from our menu, while relaxing with a book or just taking in the breathtaking view of the estate. We serve lunch, afternoon tea, and a late–night dinner menu.
• STABLE CAFÉ
(Biltmore House & Gardens) APPALACHIAN COMFORT FOOD Satisfy your appetite for house-smoked meats, Carolina barbeque, grilled
burgers, and other Southern favorites in this historic setting in what was originally the estate’s horse stable. Enjoy casual dining in a bright and airy restaurant where converted stalls hold cozy booths.
WNC Garlic Fest SAVE THE DATE: Oct 1, 2016
Ready to get crazy about garlic? Come to Asheville’s South Slope to enjoy a garlic experience you’ll never forget!
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The third annual WNC Garlic Fest brings together a celebration of everything awesome about garlic and an optimism that we can share the simple skills necessary to empower everyone to grow great garlic. Free Entry. Free Samples. Eat, Learn and Grow!
fb.com/wncgarlicfest
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farm
tour
2 days 20 FARMS
photographs by TIFFANY WELSH & DEBI MANFRE This June the gates and barns of WNC opened to the public for the annual ASAP Farm Tour. With a wide variety of farming operations, there was much to see and do for the whole family. PICTURED: East Fork Farm, Dry Ridge Farm, Hop n Blueberry Farm, Cane Creek Creamery
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FEATURE
S L O W F O O D A S H E VI L L E
Don’t know beans?
by PETER KENT
Slow Food Asheville offers heirloom bean giveaway MOST OF US don’t know beans. Slow Food Asheville is hoping to change that. Through its Heritage Food Project, the nonprofit is giving away more than 200 packets of an heirloom bean. “Our group chose the Cherokee Trail of Tears bean because of its ties to Appalachian farming and cultural traditions,” said Ashley Epling, Slow Food Asheville president. The name alone brings into sharp focus the link to the Cherokee, who shared the “three sisters” — corn, beans and squash — with Europeans who immigrated to the mountain South. Without corn and beans, many settlers would have starved. Cherokee generosity was repaid with U.S. government brutality, forcing them off their lands on a 2,000mile death march to Oklahoma in 1838 and ‘3, aptly named the “Trail of Tears”. The bean itself is roughly the size of a zipper pull, oblong and shiny black. A pole bean, it grows in greenish-purple pods on vines that twine up trellises and bean tipis, relentlessly climbing 10 feet and higher. It is praised as a prolific easy-grower, resistant to insect pests and disease. Comments on heirloom seed websites note that it’s a tasty bean, owing in part to it being a string bean, which many bean lovers say tastes better than a stringless bean. Young, tender pods can be picked, snapped and unstrung, cooked and eaten. When the beans mature, they are shelled and eaten fresh or dried. The whole bean – fresh pod and all – can be broken into pieces and dried thoroughly, then stored in jars to be rehydrated and eaten as leather britch20
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es or shelly beans. Once a mountain winter staple, the dish is now more a traditional holiday food. “Our goal is to raise awareness and access to traditional Appalachian foods. We want folks to learn the history, how to grow them, prepare them, and find them for sale locally,” says Epling. “Not only are heirloom beans flavorful and nutritious, they play an important role in preventing our food system from relying on a handful of crops grown by industrial agriculture.”
Cherokee Trail of Tears beans Biodiversity in plants is a particular concern – livestock consume plants just as we do. The varieties of plants we rely on are decreasing. Some say that we have already lost more than half of the world’s crop varieties over the last century. Compounding the problem is the concentration of crop seed under the control of biotech companies. Currently, less than a dozen international corporations control 75 percent of the
worldwide seed market. Such a global problem cannot be solved by one simple solution. Change can begin locally and regionally by supporting farmers who grow heirlooms -open-pollinated plants that enable the seeds to be saved and shared. Not only does the practice protect agro-biodiversity but it also reduces farmer costs for commercial seeds. Created in 1986 as a reaction to fast food, the Slow Food Movement rallies around its motto, “Good, Clean and Fair Food for All.” The Asheville chapter does it part by working to preserve mountain South food culture and tradition, promoting the benefits of local heritage foods and advocating for sustainable agriculture that balances human and ecological needs while being fair to farmers and food laborers. Last year, the chapter launched its heritage food project by giving away 500 rooting slips of the Nancy Hall sweet potato, an heirloom in danger of disappearing. The project was a modest first-time success, with an enough people growing the Nancy Hall to hold a celebration highlighted by a sweet potato potluck. This year, the plan is more ambitious. The chapter enlisted a handful of locations to display boxes holding 3x4-inch manila envelopes branded with the movement’s logo – a red snail – containing 50-70 bean seeds. Gardeners and farmers from Asheville and surrounding areas were recruited to grow the bean. Local chefs have been invited to create dishes using the bean when harvested. There will be a tasting party in September.
FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT SLOWFOODASHEVILLE.ORG
Bean Hotspot The Southern Appalachians are a bean hotspot. Anthropologists and ethno-botanists say the region is second only to Rwanda in Africa for harboring the most bean varieties. Despite the abundance of beans, most people have not tasted a bona-fide homegrown bean. What they know is often served on the side, soaking into BBQ bun, or baked in cream of mushroom soup, then dressed up with french-fried onions for Thanksgiving. There’s a reason those beans are hiding in sauces and spices. They are bland. Plant breeders working for industrial agriculture do not develop fruits and vegetables for taste. They develop cultivars that will grow fast and sturdy, withstanding agro-chemicals and machine picking. The results are tough-skinned, tasteless cardboard cutouts of old-timey beans, which are supple skinned, protein rich, and full of savory flavors. “It’s a shame that so many people eat beans that are tasteless and tough,” said Bill Best or Berea, KY, who for more than 60 years has grown and seed-saved the beans that sustained mountain folk. Growing up on a farm in Upper Crabtree in Haywood County, NC, Best worked in the home gardens overseen by his mother, Margaret. Like many mountain women she tended the garden, while the men cleared land, worked tobacco allotments and corn crops.
Best’s mother kept a lookout for “sports” – a mountain term for mutations – plants that stand out as better growers or producers or are unique, such as beans with vines that grow shorter, called half-runners, or have pods packed tight with square-ish beans, known as cut-shorts. Other desirable traits won plants special treatment: drought-tolerance, pest and disease resistance, taste and storability. Known for their independence and lively curiosity, some mountain folk would grow a plant just to see the results – a new color or speckling. The results were a windfall of varieties. Nearly every county and holler, family and kinship, had a bespoke bean to grow and pass along. It was a safeguard against calamity. The story of the Great Hunger was still keen among the Irish who had fled the famine. Best’s mother saved the seeds and planted them next season, hoping they would breed true to the parent plant of last season. Over the years, she bred distinctive varieties; her gifted garden progeny were honored with names. One of her best beans was named Margaret Best’s greasy bean. A greasy bean has a shiny pod with almost a greaselike sheen; hence the name. A greasy is tender-podded bean that you can eat right off the vine. A retired Berea College professor, Bill Best runs the Sustainable Mountain Agriculture Center on his farm. He writes
about heirloom fruits, vegetables, and seed-savers — the people who grow heirloom varieties and preserve seeds, often sharing or selling them. With more than half-dozen titles to his credit, Best is author of the popular book “Saving Seeds, Preserving Taste.” Another on the topic is nearly ready for release. Best reckons that he has about 700 bean varieties stored in six freezers. “I did it to please myself, but it turns out I have pleased others, too,” said Best. Word got around about Best’s effort to preserve and propagate old-timey beans. Before there was email, he got letters from people asking him if he had beans they remembered from growing up in the mountains. Today, Best has a website, heirlooms. org, where people can search for the beans that trigger memories of the times when they sat on the porch with their mothers and other women, snapping beans, “unzipping” them and putting them in a pot, telling their stories and laughing a lot on warm summer days when life was plain and simple. Most folks don’t want to fret about food security and biodiversity. They want tender pods and savory beans seasoned with a little pork, salt and pepper. It’s hard to have a worry when you’re eating a plate of beans. PETER KENT lives in Asheville. He writes about food through the people who grow, sell, cook and eat it. Contact him at ptrkent@gmail.com
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Heirloom Tomatoes TASTE LIKE HOME by SHANE MAXSON | photo by TIM ROBISON
MY FIRST MEMORIES OF TOMATOES flash like snapshots from a gallery opening of Andy Warhol paintings – giant soup cans lining the pantry cupboard with the word “Tomato” catching the eye with vivid red lettering on a white label. A sweet tangy aroma permeating the kitchen air; the sound of soup bubbling on the enameled stovetop and grilled cheese sandwiches singing like radio static in the cast iron, soon to become a vehicle delivering the velvety tomato puree to my hungry mouth, and thawing the chill of a winter’s day… 22
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T
HEI R LO O M TO M ATO ES
FEATURE
TOMATOES TASTE LIKE HOME. They conjure vivid memories like walking
down to the garden with my parents in search of the perfect green fruit for fried green tomatoes, gathering armloads of vine ripened sweetness with Grandma to can for the months ahead, or memories like my own of cold winter nights warmed with hot soup. There is a visceral connection to our past and to our home, which tomatoes bring to life with a quality that can almost be described as the flavor of sunlight. The first recorded instance of tomatoes being grown in the United States was penned by herbalist William Salmon in his work Botanologia. His writing of 1710 indicates that tomatoes were being grown in the “Carolinas” as a food crop. The tomato enjoyed prominence in many coastal dishes, yet did not begin to show its face in the mountainous region of the Carolinas until 1833, where according to Andrew Smith in his book The Tomato in America, it was grown in Salem, North Carolina. These early tomatoes are what we now refer to as Heirloom Tomatoes. Heirlooms differ from the conventional tomatoes found at most grocery stores. Although they can be round and red in appearance, the diversity of shape and color range from the smooth green striped fruit of the Zebra Tomato to the varied shape of the dark pink Cherokee Purple, but the thing that most prominently sets heirlooms apart from other tomatoes is their flavor. Chef Josiah McGaughey of Asheville’s Salt and Smoke says, “The flavor of heirlooms is more concentrated. Grocery store tomatoes hold more water and the taste gets diluted by all that liquid. Then you have the texture component - heirlooms have a crispness to them that provides a mouth feel you just can’t achieve with conventional tomatoes.” When it comes to Heirloom Tomatoes there are no limits to their uses, flavors, and variations. Radiator Charlie’s Mortgage Lifter, Cherokee Purple, Tennessee Britches, Mr. Stripey, and the German Johnson are just a few of the varieties found in the stalls of the farmer’s market. Across the South we are seeing a rise in the demand for these prized varieties of yesteryear as they are showcased on the menus of fine dining establishments. “At their peak, I begin to dream about tomatoes,” says McGaughey, “The beauty of an heirloom tomato is you don’t have to do anything to it. I wouldn’t eat a grocery store tomato like an apple, but I would if it was an heirloom.” The tomato is a gateway crop. It is one of the first to capture the passion and imagination of gardeners and the first one that people learn how to can. To harness the flavor of the tomato in all its diversity and complexity is a journey through the growing season. This journey in the South begins with the Fried Green Tomato. “My mom invented Fried Green Tomatoes,” McGaughey says laughing, “at least I thought so until I was much older.” McGaughey goes on to say, “The best Fried Green Tomatoes depend on picking the tomato at the perfect time. If there is any orange, pink, or red color showing on the skin it is too late. You want the skin to be evenly green and the flesh to be firm.” Tomatoes are at the height of their flavor beginning in July and running through October in North Carolina. This is the best time to prepare dishes that accentuate the taste of sunlight such as Salsa Fresca, Sauce Vierge, and Summer Tomato Gazpacho. SHANE MAXSON is a freelance writer on sustainable agriculture, seed saving, regional food, and food security. He also works as the Outreach Coordinator for the Appalachian Institute for Mountain Studies and the Southern Seed Legacy Project. Contact him at plowandlace@gmail.com SUMMER 2016 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM
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R ECIPE
FRIED GREEN TOMATOES
fried green tomatoes
THESE CRISP AND TANGY TREATS ARE THE ULTIMATE SOUTHERN COMFORT FOOD • • • • • • • • • •
4 to 6 fresh green (unripe) tomatoes, sliced 2 C buttermilk 2 large eggs 2 C Carolina Ground 75 pastry flour 1 C Anson Mills Antebellum fine white cornmeal 1 tsp ramp powder (sub 1/2 tsp garlic powder & 1/2 tsp onion powder) pinch of cayenne salt & pepper to taste 2 C high heat oil 1 C butter
1 In a medium bowl combine buttermilk and eggs, whisk
until thoroughly blended. In a separate bowl, combine dry ingredients, ensuring they are evenly mixed. Prepare the pan by heating the butter and oil on medium high heat.
2 W hen the pan has come up to temperature, dip tomato slices in the buttermilk egg mixture then dredge in the dry mix. Ensure that the dry mix coats the tomato slices evenly on both sides.
3 C ook tomato slices in batches until golden brown, 3-4 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels and serve.
recipe courtesy of SHANE MAXSON
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25
THE GUIDE
GO T TO B E N C WI N E
Excellence Uncorked: Got to Be NC Wine
by PAUL JONES
WHEN YOU’RE IN ASHEVILLE, it’s hard not to get caught up in the beer scene. The city boasts more breweries per capita than any other city in the nation. But the mountains are home to more than great beer. It’s also home to great wine. Dozens of local wineries are making high-quality wines that hold their own when compared to wines from more-recognized wine growing states like California or New York. One of the best ways to experience North Carolina wines is by visiting local wineries. Each location offers a different experience for you to enjoy. At Biltmore Winery, the most-visited winery in America, you can soak in the panoramic views of the Vanderbilt’s majestic estate. Meanwhile, a trip to Calaboose Cellars in Andrews will find you standing literally shoulder-to-shoulder with fellow wine lovers in the world’s smallest winery at just 300 square feet. In between these extremes, there are wineries as unique as the people who visit them. And, according to a recent study from the NC Wine and Grape Council, the number of people visiting NC wineries is on the rise. “We’ve seen a 65 percent increase in wine-related tourism
expenditure in recent years,” said Whit Winslow, executive director for the NC Wine and Grape Council. “The number of tourists visiting North Carolina wineries increased by nearly a half-million people from 2009 to 2013 alone.” The number of wineries also has increased across the state. North Carolina is now home to more than 180 wineries and is the 10th-largest wine producing state in the nation. North Carolina’s growth as a wine state has been exponential in recent years, but the state’s history of making wine is centuries old. Wine making can be traced back to 1584 with the discovery of the Mother Vine, the longest continually cultivated grape vine in North America. The vine was discovered by sailors from Sir Walter Raleigh’s expedition to the New World. During the 17th and 18th centuries, wine production thrived in the state; and before prohibition, North Carolina led the nation in wine production. A revival of winemaking began in the 1970s, and the in-
NC WINE QUICK FACTS
• $1.71 BILLION Economic impact of the NC wine & grape industry • $257 MILLION Amount of wine-related tourism expenditures • 1,711,000 Number of wine-related tourists • 569,000 Number of cases of wine produced in the state • 7,709 Number of full-time-equivalent jobs related to the industry • 2,300 Number of grape-bearing acres in the state • 525 Number of commercial grape growers in the state • 186 Number of wineries in the state • 4 Number of designated American Viticultural Areas in NC (Haw River, Swan Creek, Upper Hiwassee Highlands and Yadkin Valley)
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LEARN MORE AT NCWINE.ORG dustry has grown dramatically since. Now, it’s easy to find a range of flavor profiles from sweet muscadines to dry viniferas, and a wide assortment of European varietals. “When people think of North Carolina wines, our sweet muscadines may be the first thing that comes to mind,” Winslow said. “But, the state is one of the most diverse growing regions in the world. There truly is a North Carolina wine for everyone.” In September, wine lovers can raise a glass and toast the industry during NC Wine Month. Wineries will hold special events to celebrate the harvest season throughout the month. Grape stomps, exclusive wine tastings and wine festivals are planned across the state. You can find a full listing of wine-related events at www.ncwine.org/calendar. In addition, the NC Wine and Grape Council has partnered with area grocery stores to offer in-store promotions on North Carolina wines. The council also is working with UNC-TV to produce a new 10-part series showcasing the NC wine industry. Each episode of “Vine to Wine” will feature behind-the-scenes tours of local wineries, along with tips from wine experts. The first episode is set to air later this fall. PAUL JONES is a marketing specialist for the NC Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services. He can be reached at 919-707-3105 or paul.jones@ncagr.gov. More information about NC Wine is available at ncwine.org
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RESTAURANT
GL A S S O N I O N
photos by TIFFANY WELSH CHEF EDDIE HANNIBAL is not from an Italian family and he is not in the business of preparing secret family recipes passed down for generations. Before opening the Glass Onion restaurant in Weaverville, both he and his wife, Natalie Byrnes, were head chefs at some of the highest rated dining venues in the Hamptons. Both had backgrounds in Italian cuisine throughout their careers and as Byrnes says “Who doesn’t like Italian food?” So deciding to stick with what they know and love, they opened the “global Italian” restaurant in 2012. Hannibal’s love of Italian food is easy to understand. He describes the Italian way of preparing and eating food as “very simply, very tastefully, and very product oriented.” While they do have some pasta dishes, their menu has much more to offer than spaghetti and meatballs. They like to focus on seasonal ingredients, really giving them a spotlight with simple preparations to let the taste shine through. According to Hannibal, “Even though it is more work to source from local farmers, the product is much better. The flavor is better.” Throughout the year you will find steak, seafood and pasta dishes on the menu, but the preparations and side items change to fit the season. More comfort food in the fall and winter and lighter dishes in the spring and summer. One thing you won’t find in any season are exotic, over-
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whelming dishes or gastronomic experiments, because as Hannibal say, “I’m a bit old school.” Both he and Byrnes prefer to focus on consistency, presentation, and great service, which keeps the customer’s coming back for more. To that end, they prepare everything in house - pasta, bread, even ice cream. And pride themselves on only buying ingredients and no prepared foods. Hannibal grew up in East Hampton, New York, a place that was once a quiet resort town with small farms and fishermen. Today, East Hampton is more of a playground for the wealthy and famous. When the couple was looking to relocate, Hannibal chose Weaverville because it reminded him of his childhood home. They also enjoyed the Asheville-vibe that brings many people to the area. They couldn’t have picked a better time to move to area, as so many people are moving north of Asheville. So far Weaverville has made them feel very welcome as they are now entering their fifth year and business is steadily increasing. Glass Onion is open 7 days a week for lunch and dinner, plus brunch on Sundays. They have a great wine selection, in addition to their menu. Plus there are daily chalkboard specials for dinner and dessert. With all of this, there is something for everyone. So, go north and check them out on Main Street in Weaverville.
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THE GUIDE
T O M AT O TA S T I N G & S E E D EXCHA N G E
HOW TO host a tomato
tasting & seed exchange
NOTHING QUITE CAPTURES THE FLAVOR of Summer as a homegrown heirloom tomato. With thousands of varieties of tomatoes available, there is no way to grow them all. A Tomato Tasting party and Seed Exchange is the perfect way to discover new varieties of tomato to add to your garden next year.
TASTE TEST
First, start by picking a date when tomatoes are at the peak of their season. For our area, this is usually in August. Next, you’ll want to invite all your friends, family or neighbors - both experienced gardeners and those who are just getting started. Have everyone bring a few of their favorite tomatoes. Depending on how many people you’ve invited, you may need 3 or 4 of each type of tomato and a pint of cherry sized tomatoes. You can also ask friends to bring along their favorite tomato recipe to share with the other guests. Set a table large enough to accommodate all the tomato varieties. You should only slice 1 to 2 tomatoes of each variety to start and leave the others whole, so your guests can see what the tomato looks like. If you know ahead of time what varieties will be available, you can make labels with a little history or cultural information about each type. Provide your guests with small plates, forks, napkins and something to use as a palate cleanser. As you’re eating the tomatoes, discuss what everyone likes and dislikes about each variety. Take time to notice the subtleties of flavor and texture. You will also want to have small cups or small bags available for those who want to save their seeds.
SAVING SEEDS
Tomato Tastings are a great place to start seed saving. Simply scoop out the seeds and goo from a tomato you enjoy and place it into a small bag or cup. Make sure to label your seeds, so you can identify them later. Once you get home, put your seeds and goo into a small cup or container, if you haven’t already. Add a couple of tablespoons of water to the container. Cover with plastic wrap and pierce with small holes. Place the seed mixture in a warm windowsill. It takes about 2-3 days for the seeds to ferment. You will need to open the container and stir them once per day. Once the mixture looks scummy on top, you are ready to clean the seeds. Carefully scoop off and discard the scum. Then using a fine sieve, rinse your seeds several times until they are clean. Place the clean seeds onto a paper plate or coffee filter and place in a safe place to dry. It will take about a week for the seeds to dry thoroughly and you will need to stir them once per day to make sure they are drying evenly. Place your dry seeds into a small envelope or glass jar. If properly handled, the seeds can last up to 8 years.
This Summer start a new tradition of hosting a Tomato Tasting party and find delicious tomatoes you can enjoy year after year!
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THE GUIDE
AS H E VI L L E F O O D T R UC K SCEN E
6 ASHEVILLE
unique facets of
’s
FOOD TRUCK
by
SCENE
HELLO ASHEVILLE! Let’s talk food trucks.
I LOVE ‘EM! I’ve only really been hitting up the Asheville food truck scene for about a year or so, ever since I discovered that they park at various venues and areas right near my house! I live in between South Slope & the River Arts District, so I can visit a different food truck every night of the week at The Wedge, or wander over to SoSlo, where the bar scene attracts any number of trucks on any given night of the week. I’m pretty sure I’ve tried most of the food trucks in Asheville at this point. I was a judge in TWO different food truck competitions this year (I love my job!) and as I said, I hunt them down wherever they are in my own neighborhood. Here’s a list of six things that I think make the AVL Food Truck scene special. 32
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1 THE FOOD IS GOOOD!
Is it possible for a chef to cook and serve food from a truck that is as good or even better than the food being served at some of the top restaurants in town? Go see my friends at the Root Down Food Truck, and you’ll know the answer is “oh HELL yes.” Their specialty is NOLA influenced street food and Homestyle Southern delicacies - Boudin balls, hog jowls, and some of the best mac ‘n’ cheese you’ll ever have to name a few. In addition to Root Down, you’ll find some of the finest cooking in town coming from the likes of Farm to Fender (2015 Battle of the Burger winners); Appalachian Chic (try the tater tots); and Latino Heat, who serve up some of the best arepas I’ve ever had in my life.
2 GITTIN’ INTERNATIONAL WIT IT
Speaking of arepas…Sure we’re famous for our Southern cuisine here in Asheville, but we have a great little International food scene, too. Trucks like Out of the Blue Peruvian Fusion Cuisine, and Vitamina T Yucatecan Street Food offer some of the most unique and -- to my tongue at least -- exotic foods available in town. Vendors like El Kimchi, Smash Box Mobile, and Gypsy Queen Cuisine have been serving Korean BBQ, Nicaraguan, and Middle Eastern food to fans and followers for years. When you start to add them up -- Umami Bites, Tia B’s, Ron’s Taco Shop, Del Sol Taqueria, CiCi’s Food Tours, and half a dozen more -- the food trucks account for a sizable amount of our International dining options.
3 GOING BRICK ‘N’ MORTAR
It seemed like everyone I knew was waiting with hungry anticipation for the doors to open at the new Gypsy Queen Cuisine “brick and mortar’ location on Patton Ave in West Asheville, and likewise in my own hood we watched with excitement as Little Bee Thai built-out their brand new shop in the Downtown Market building on South French Broad Ave. One of the great things about food trucks is that they can give a chef or cook a chance to establish themselves, and their food with a following before they take on the monumental task and relatively high overhead of opening a restaurant. When those two established chefs finally threw open their doors, they immediately had customers, who love and embrace them as people, and as food preparers. A great food truck is often the stepping stone to a great restaurant.
4 FOOD TRUCK FESTS & COMPETITIONS!
There are currently two major annual local food truck gatherings that I know of: The Food Truck Throw Down and The Loaded Up ‘n’ Truckin’ Food Truck Off. The former was held at the Masonic temple this past April for the third year
FOR MORE FOOD FANDOM, VISIT STUHELMFOODFAN.WORDPRESS.COM in a row, and the latter was an inaugural event hosted by the Oskar Blues Brewing Reeb Ranch in May. Now the trucks are hitting their busiest season, and are dispersed throughout WNC, but at those two events more than 20 food trucks were gathered and the purchase of a “judges ticket” allowed the average attendee to cast a vote for their favorites. I was lucky enough to judge at both events and I can tell you now which trucks I prefer and which I do not, because I have sampled so many. Look for these two events, and possibly others like it to get a great overview!
5 BARS, BREWERIES & 51 COXE
There is a food truck lot at 51 Coxe Ave right downtown, and Asheville has plenty of bars, breweries, brew pubs, pump houses, and groggeries who host food trucks nightly. Take a stroll through the South Slope on any given night and you’ll find food trucks parked in lots and at curbside on nearly every block. Catawba Brewery on Banks Ave, Green Man on Buxton, and of course, over in the River Arts District, The Wedge has been a home for the food trucks for years. I’m not as familiar with other parts of town, so keep an eye out at the bars and pumps near you to see if and when they host food trucks.
Shrimp Remoulade @EatRootDown
6 THE INTERWEB!
The best way to know where your favorite food trucks are going to be is to check the Facebook page for that truck, or find their web site. For food truck updates on Twitter follow @wncfoodtrucks, and for festive pics on Instagram follow @avlfoodtrucks. If you want to check out the most up-to-date, comprehensive list of active food trucks in the Asheville area, you should go to AshevilleFoodTrucks.com where there are SIXTY-FIVE vendors listed, including those scrappy little cousins of the food trucks, the food carts, like Avery’s Hotdogs, Sunshine Sammies, and Josephine’s.
Suzy @GQCstreetfood
If you like great food, and you haven’t tried the food trucks yet, do yourself a favor: Get on line, find out where they’re at near you, and start eating! My personal goal is to try every single truck, cart, and mobile cafe in WNC! STU HELM is an artist, graphic designer, and writer living in Asheville, North Carolina. You can follow him on Instagram @stuhelmfoodfan
Loaded Up & Truckin’ @oskarblueswnc
Bibimbap @El_Kimchi
Nice paint job @FarmToFender SUMMER 2016 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM
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THE GUIDE
QUI CK TI P S
Shopping Local Markets Create a meal plan. Just like shopping at a grocery store, you will spend less by planning ahead.
Get there early.
Most of the best quality produce is purchased first and popular items may sell out early in the day.
Walk the entire market before you buy. This way you can find the best looking items at the best price. Plus, you won’t have to carry your purchases as far on your way out.
Bring your own bag.
Some vendors may offer plastic bags, but they often can’t hold up to the weight of a lot of fresh fruit and veggies. Save your food from hitting the sidewalk by bringing a reusable bag to carry your purchases. If you purchase a lot of perishable items, like meats and cheeses, you may want to carry a second insulated bag to keep those items cold.
Bring cash in small denominations.
Some vendors accept debit or credit cards, but many don’t. Bring cash in small denominations, so there is less need to make change.
Know what’s in season. Talk to the vendors and find out what they will have available in coming weeks. This will help you plan your meals, as well as let you know when you should stock up on extras at the end of the season.
Buy in bulk. In the peak season, you will get the best prices
by buying in bulk. Don’t know how you can use it all up before it goes bad? Try freezing, dehydrating or canning to save seasonal fruits and veggies for the off-season.
Leave room for spontaneity. Even
the most prepared shopper might be surprised with an unexpected delight at the market - a fruit or vegetable a little early to market or a new preserve you have to try. Discovering new foods are part of the excitement of buying at the market.
Ask questions. Maybe you have spotted a new item you’re
interested in trying, but you don’t know how to prepare it. Ask the farmer for advice on cooking or maybe for a favorite recipe.
Bring the kids. Let them help you pick out what to buy and use the opportunity to teach them about eating fresh healthy food.
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THE GUIDE
C O O KB O O K R E VI E WS
C OOK BOO K REVIEW S It’s no secret that Asheville is home to some very talented chefs. In the upcoming months, you too will be able to create dishes from some of your favorite restaurants at home.
CÚRATE: AUTHENTIC SPANISH FOOD FROM AN AMERICAN KITCHEN BY KATIE BUTTON This debut cookbook from local chef, Katie Button, brings the vibrant flavors of Spain into the American home kitchen. Button is a new star of the global food world with multiple accolades under her belt and this book provides a peek inside the kitchen of her award-winning restaurant, Cúrate. The book features 125 recipes celebrating the vibrant flavors and broad appeal of Spanish Food. Button adds her special twist to traditional Spanish dishes by adapting them to seasonal American ingredients.
COMING OCTOBER 2016 SRP $35.00
BUXTON HALL BARBECUE’S BOOK OF SMOKE BY ELLIOTT MOSS Elliott Moss knows his barbecue. He has been celebrated in the food industry while garnering respect from some of the oldest-running pitmasters in the South. If you’ve wanted to master the art of smoking, this is the book for you. While some books offer only the “right way” to smoke, Moss lets readers choose the equipment and techniques that are right for them. The book even goes so far as to teach readers how to build and master their own home barbecue pit. The recipes include Buxton Hall favorites from the deep-fried catfish to the smoky pimento cheese. There are also tips on how to use the whole hog, leaving nothing to waste, and let’s not forget the desserts!
COMING OCTOBER 2016 SRP $28.00
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THE GUIDE
LOCAL LIBATIONS
Beat the heat with an eclectic assortment of summer recommendations from South Slope’s TASTY BEVERAGE CO. photos by TIFFANY WELSH & TASTY BEVERAGE CO.
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LEARN MORE AT TASTYBEVERAGECO.COM
➌ Lindemans Oude Gueuze Cuvee Rene
Known for their extensive portfolio encompassing barrel aged sours to Belgian inspired ales, Wicked Weed Brewing has not forgotten about the hop lovers out there. While their Freak of Nature Double IPA certainly holds its own, Napoleon Complex packs these desired flavors and aromas in a sessionable pint-sized package. This beer drinks bigger than its name with a piney bitterness comparable to standard IPAs. At 5.2% ABV Napoleon Complex is beyond crushable for long summer days.
Lindemans (founded 1809) is one of the largest Lambic producers in Belgium. Their wide range of sweet, fruited lambics is easily found in most high end groceries, however their real gem is Cuvée René. Unsweetened, unfiltered and produced the old way (hence “Oude Gueuze”), Cuvée René is tart, lemony, dry, and funky with a faint minerality. Dangerously drinkable thanks to its delicate balance and low alcohol, Cuvée René is also a versatile beer at the table. It can be used as an aperitif or digestif, or paired with a range of foods; use it cut fatty or spicy foods, or as a complement lighter fare such as ceviche, salads, or soft cheese.
6-Pack Bottles | $12.50 after tax wickedweedbrewing.com
750ML Bottle | $11.50 after tax lindemans.be
➋ Highland Brewing
➍ Avery Brewing Company
The first major brewery in the city of Asheville, NC has delivered a classic style that has been overshadowed in previous years. Highland Brewing’s take on their Pilsner incorporates Hallertau hops which provide a floral and citrus character. Crisp and clean, this beverage can please even the most traditional drinkers in your cookouts and parties.
Avery Brewing Company has created a variation of the Belgian inspired witbier and by adding passionfruit for a tropical themed brew. This easy drinking beer is highlighted by notes of passionfruit, guava, and pineapple that provide a juicy balance with the slightly spicy, but flavorful, witbier base. Perfect for hot weather vacations, this refreshing brew is almost a beer-mosa in a can!
6-Pack Bottles | $11 after tax highlandbrewing.com
6-Pack Cans | $15 after tax averybrewing.com
➊ Wicked Weed Brewing Napoleon Complex
Pilsner
➎ Sierra Nevada Otra Vez
Gose is a tart, salty, and refreshing wheat beer originating from Germany that has seen a resurgence in popularity over the past few years, especially in the South with it’s hot and humid summers. While many modern examples blur the line between Gose and American Sour Ale, Otra Vez keeps the the acidity in check and rounds out the flavor profile with subtle cactus and grapefruit. Great for afternoons by the river or in the woods, Otra Vez has plenty of flavor and substance but remains extremely drinkable even on the hottest summer days. 12-Pack Cans | $20.50 after tax sierranevada.com
Liliko’i Kepolo
LOC AT E D AT
162 Coxe Avenue, Suite 101, Asheville, NC C A L L 828-232-7120 SUMMER 2016 | FOODLIFEMAG.COM
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THE GUIDE
CALENDAR Friday and the Grand Tasting on Saturday is a smorgasbord of food, wine, beer, and spirits, plus cooking demonstrations, and a chance to meet cookbook authors, farmers, chefs, winemakers, brewers, and much, much more. Come sample the best of Western North Carolina’s food scene! Tickets are available online. ashevillewineandfood.com WN C B AT T LE O F T HE B UR G ER Aug 21 | The Salvage Station, Asheville Nominated restaurants compete for the title of Best Burger in WNC. The winner will continue on to the World Burger Championship competition in Kissimee, FL. Live music by local musicians Jim Arrendell & the Cheap Suits and Don Clayton. A VIP ticket buys you all the burgers and beer you can consume. Make sure to bring your appetite! VIP Tickets are $40 or pay by the burger. $10 general admission. 2-5pm. WNCBurgerBattle.com O R G A N IC F E ST Aug 28 | Pack Square Park, Asheville Asheville’s 15th annual Organicfest celebration will bring thousands to Pack Square Park to celebrate everything organic, green and healthy! In celebration of National Organic Month, the Organicfest was created to spotlight, connect and share the rich organic community of farmers, artists and businesses with our community. Admission is FREE. organicfest.org
SE PTE M BE R
photograph by TIFFANY WELSH
AUG UST SO U RWO O D F ES T I VAL Aug 13-14 | Black Mountain The Sourwood Festival fills downtown Black Mountain each year. Over 30,000 people from all over America will be in attendance. Music, dancing, arts & crafts, super food, kid’s rides and games, face painting and more in a no alcohol environment make it the perfect event for you and your entire family. With about 200 vendors you will discover lots of local and unique arts and crafts and there will be something to please every palate with BBQ and vegetarian faire, custom-crafted ice cream and funnel cakes and jellies. Add to that the honey and bee demos as well as the gourmet sourwood honey - you don’t want to miss this event!Admission is FREE sourwoodfestival.com A S H E V ILLE WI N E AN D F OOD F E S T I VAL Aug 19-20 | Downtown Asheville Launched in 2009, the Asheville Wine & Food Festival celebrates all that’s worth savoring in the Blue Ridge Mountains. This festival offers several signature events – ELIXIR brings an elaborate cocktail party and mixology competition on for the second year, SWEET offers a decadent evening of desserts on 40
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B A C O N F E ST A SHEVILLE Sep 3 | Highland Brewing Company Meadow, Asheville Celebrate all things bacon at Baconfest Asheville. Bacon aficionados will be on hand for cooking demos. Take home bacon products and sample bacon creations from some of Asheville’s best restaurants, featuring: bacon ice cream, bacon beer, bacon chocolate and more! Event attendees will receive a ballot to select their favorites at the festival. This event sells out every year, so get your tickets now! baconfestasheville.com N C A P P LE FEST IVA L Sep 2-5 | Downtown Hendersonville Enjoy 4 days of fun including one of the best-known Street Fairs in the Carolinas with Freshly Picked Apples, Arts & Crafts, Festival Food and FREE Entertainment at the Historic Courthouse on Hendersonville’s Beautiful Main Street. Admission is FREE. ncapplefestival.org O R G A N IC G R O WE R ’S SC HO O L HA RVE ST C O N FER E N C E Sep 9-10 | AB Tech, Asheville Organic Growers School presents the third Harvest Conference, a fall event featuring all the popularity of the Spring Conference with a focus on the fall growing season, harvesting, canning, growing, gardening, energy, cooking and more…all organically of course. We pride ourselves on bringing you down-to-earth advice on growing and sustainable living, while remaining affordable and accessible. organicgrowersschool.org
BU LLING TO N G A R D E N S A NN U A L FA LL PLA N T S AL E Sep 9-10 | 95 Upper Red Oak Trail, Hendersonville Bullington will hold a fall plant sale over two days that features many late blooming perennials and annuals including mums and asters with perennials at reduced prices. There is also a gardening rummage sale featuring gardening-related items and books. Donated items for the sale may be dropped off at Bullington. All proceeds support educational programs at Bullington Gardens. Admission is FREE. bullingtongardens.org 20TH A NNU A L BRE W GR AS S F E S T I VAL Sep 17 | Memorial Stadium, Asheville Founded in 1996, Brewgrass Festival is Western North Carolina’s original craft beer festival. North Carolina is now home to over 100 breweries and brewpubs, and since those early days, Asheville has formed a burgeoning beer scene – even reigning as “Beer City USA” four years in a row. Brewgrass Festival’s annual event has always showcased some of the most in-demand and exciting brewers in the region.Tickets are $55 per person. 1-6pm brewgrassfestival.com
O CT OB ER A SH EVILLE CO F F E E E X P O Oct 1 | Ralph Street, River Arts District A celebration of the Coffee Scene in Asheville and WNC, bringing coffee drinkers and fans together with local roasters, brewers, baristas, manufacturers, and anyone who loves coffee. Sponsored by Stu Helm: Food Fan, Coffee Crate and PennyCup Coffee Co. WNC G A RLIC F E S T Oct 1 | South Slope, Asheville Garlic fest is an opportunity to eat some creative and awesome garlic inspired dishes - garlic ice cream, garlic fudge, garlic cookies...There will also be opportunities to learn about growing your own garlic. Workshops will be scheduled and run on a first come first served throughout the day. Garlic Fest is organized by Sow True Seed, a local seed company that supplies certified seed garlic and supports the mission of local and sustainable food systems. Admission is FREE wncgarlicfest.com
d ay s & h o u r s asheville city market Saturdays 8-12
asheville City market South Wednesdays 12-4
Black mountain tailgate market Saturdays 9-12
east asheville tailgate market Fridays 3-6
French Broad Food CoOp tailgate market Wednesdays 2-6
henderson County tailgate market Saturdays 7-12
leicester Farmers market Saturdays 9-2
mills river Farmers market Saturdays 8-12
north asheville tailgate market Saturdays 8-12
oakley farmers market Thursdays 3:30-6:30
Original waynesville tailgate market Wednesdays + Saturdays 8-12
river arts district farmers market Wednesdays 2-6
weaverville tailgate market Wednesdays 2:30-6:30
west asheville tailgate market Tuesdays 3:30-6:30
For a complete list of the 90+ tailgates in the region, including their season closing dates, visit ASAP’s online Local Food Guide at appalachiangrown.org
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RECIPE
LAST BITE
Tomato Jam created by CHEF PHILIP BOLLHOEFER photo by CHELSEA LANE PHOTOGRAPHY
• 1lb Fresh Tomatoes, peeled & de-stemmed • 1 Jalapeno Pepper, seeded & diced • ¼ C Onion, diced small • 2 tsp Fresh Ginger, minced • ½ C Sugar • 2 Tbsp Lemon Juice • 1 Tbsp Thyme Leaves • 6 oz Tomato Juice • 1 pkg Pectin (1.75oz)
1 Chop tomatoes. 2 C ombine tomatoes, juices, ginger, onion & jalapenos in a heavy bottomed stainless steel sauce pan and bring to a simmer for 10 minutes.
3 Combine sugar and pectin. 4 S lowly stir in sugar and pectin mixture and gently simmer for 30-45 minutes until jam has noticeably thickened.
5 Add thyme leaves and remove from heat. 6 A llow to cool before serving. Will keep refrigerated in a glass jar for up to 3 months.
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