Swim Day is August 13! Sumo’s Hibachi room is always lively (Photo: Ash Bailot)
By He nr y Stark
I
find reviewing Japanese restaurants a challenge. I always choose raw fish— usually Sushi or Sashimi—and frankly, I’m unable to differentiate a cold, fresh, unseasoned, uncooked slice of tuna in one restaurant from a cold, fresh, unseasoned, uncooked slice of tuna in another. So I have established several of my own personal criteria when eating at Japanese restaurants. First and foremost: is the raw fish kept cold? Then, does it look fresh when served? I watch the slicers, dicers and preparers work their magic behind an open Sushi bar and it’s not beyond me to put my hand on the glass display case to see if it’s cold. Sumo always comes out a winner. The raw fish is fresh and cold and looks and tastes wonderful and the presentations brought to the table are invariably attractive. I always order the soup, which is included, rather than the salad, also included, as it seems healthy with seaweed, scallions, and tofu and comes in a generous portion in a small bowl. At Sumo, I eschew the “Sashimi Regular”, 15 pieces for $23.95 for the “Sashimi Deluxe”, 19 pieces for $25.95. The extra four pieces of raw fish for $2 seems like a bargain. The presentation is very attractive and features tuna, salmon and six other types of fish stacked in individual groups of two, three and four and garnished with bits of small parsley, green leaves, and ample portions of grated horseradish, and pickled ginger. Sushi is available in offerings for one or two people. “Sushi for 2” came with literally a boatload (wood platter) of 10 pieces of sushi plus 18 pieces of sashimi and assorted veggie rolls. “The Love Boat for 2” ($58.95) is amazing. Have your camera handy when it’s delivered to your table and enjoy a lot of variety. If you’d prefer a smaller portion, there are more than 60 various rolls, cooked and uncooked to choose from $6.25 to $16.95.
If raw fish isn’t your thing, there are eight Teriyaki dishes and five Tempuras to choose from. In addition, you can select from the Donburi section of a half dozen offerings from $14.50 to $15.95. If you’re not familiar with Donburi, is a bowl filled with steamed white rice topped with vegetables, meat, or seafood. In Japan It’s meant to be a full meal. If you prefer noodles to rice, there are eight dinners featuring noodles ($14.50-$19.95). There are also a gazillion Hibachi Dinners. Hibachi entrées that are prepared in the Hibachi rooms are also available at the booths and tables in the main dining areas. There are too many, 29, to describe, (Eight dinners $18.99 to $32.99 served with soup or house salad, fried rice, and a vegetable and an additional 21 more Hibachi dinner combos $24.99 to $40.99). The Hibachi Chicken & Shrimp Combo ($24.99) was fine. It arrived with eight medium grilled shrimp and some tender diced chicken and bits of onions, mushrooms, carrots, and zucchini all in a pleasant brown sauce. The Tempuras are a huge disappointment. The only thing I liked about the Seafood & Vegetable Tempura ($22.95) was the artful arrangement when it arrived at the table. Six heavily breaded shrimp were stacked in a pyramid atop two crab legs, a heavily breaded onion ring, and some heavily breaded broccoli, butternut squash, and sliced sweet potatoes. The breading was so thick and oily I tried to pick it off with my hands in order to get to the seafood and veggies. Shrimp Teriyaki ($19.95) was tasty and pleasant. There were 10 medium shrimp mixed in with some broccoli and small bits of mushrooms, and onions. I enjoy eating at Sumo – except it can be extremely noisy. The walls are fashioned out of an unforgiving hard vinyl tile and the Hibachi rooms are invariably raucous. Tid Bit: Plenty of off-street parking and comfortable, clean restrooms.
Illustration by Emily Hopkins
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