Isthmus: May11-17, 2017

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n FOOD & DRINK The Equador roll is packed full of yellowtail and tuna.

MEAT Sushi shakeup

$75 MEAT MEAT BOX $150 BOX

is proud to present our veryour own is proud to present very own half box

contains 10 pounds of m

is proud to present our very own

delivered right to your door in a

delivered right to your door in a delivered right to your door in a

CRIMSON SUN STUDIOS

BOX BOX MEAT MEAT Lunch, served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., is a great time to visit, as prices are reasonable and service is prompt. Always a fan of trying special rolls, I sampled first the Tarantula, an inside-out (rice on the outside) roll with soft-shell crab, rock crab, avocado and cucumber. It’s essentially a deluxe version of a spider roll, and it’s done exceptionally well — the crab is crispy, substantial and fresh-tasting, and the masago mayo and spicy sauce (like a sweeter sriracha) add a pop of flavor. At the recommendation of a server, my companion tried the duck roll, which had thin slices of seared meat draped over rice, with mango and avocado in the middle and a drizzle of sweet eel sauce. It was tasty and unusual (and a fantastic option if you’re dining with someone who refuses to eat raw fish), but I could have done with a bit more duck, especially considering the $16 price. On a return visit, I tried the Muramoto roll, assuming it must be the flagship creation. It was a visual treat, wrapped in delicate yellow egg paper and topped with big, shiny pearls of salmon roe, but the flavors of tuna, sweet shrimp and squid somehow got lost amid the shiso (a minty herb) and the mayo. Better was the Ecuador roll, packed full of tuna and yellowtail with jalapeno, scallion and spicy sauce to add some excitement. I also tried my go-to favorite, a negi toro (fatty tuna). The flavor was fine but the roll was woefully scant on the title ingredient. Maybe they were running low on the day of my visit?

caramel, the perfect thing to end a meal. Downtown Muramoto is still working out the kinks and needs to refine the menu, but this newest iteration is promising — and promises many happy returns. n

MURAMOTO DOWNTOWN n 108 King St. n 608-255-4343 n downtown.muramoto.biz 11 am-3 pm and 5 pm-10 pm Mon.-Fri.; 5 pm-10 pm Sat. n $4-$25

sending us an email at info@heritagetavern.com you won’t regret it. you won’t regret it.

MAY 11–17, 2017 ISTHMUS.COM

Change seems to be a constant for Shinji Muramoto’s restaurant mini-empire. In recent years, he’s tried out a number of concepts downtown — cool but short-lived endeavors like the Japanese small plates restaurant Kushi Bar and Asian-American barbecue joint the Haze, as well as the perpetually under-appreciated (and now closed) new-American bistro 43 North — and has expanded upon the success of his flagship Restaurant Muramoto to a successful Muramoto Hilldale location on the near-west side. In early February, his King Street stomping grounds underwent another change, with Restaurant Muramoto closing down at 225 King St. and moving into the former 43 North space — which is actually the original Sushi Muramoto location — at 108 King St. Oh, and around the same time, Morris Ramen, another Muramoto-backed project, opened at 106 King St. How does he do it? I made my first visit to Muramoto Downtown a few weeks ago and was immediately impressed by the subtle transformation of the space. White linen tablecloths were replaced with stylish wood and minimalist decorations, and the front room had been converted into an inviting, semi-private space for a large group. I prefer the new location to the former Restaurant Muramoto, whose sprawling dining room and oddly placed bar always felt a little disjointed.

$75 $75 $150 $150

half box contains the box includes: half boo pounds contain But I barely scratched the surface of the ni- recipes, and a link meat, to a giri, sashimi and the more basic rolls — next half box contains pounds time I’ll let the chef choose what’s best. Beyond sushi, there’s an “Edibles” section video featuring chef dan sho 10 pounds of meat whole bo of the menu that has some inventive salads and small (and not-so-small) plates. I loved the roasted beet salad, whichyou came with how to prepare thecontains conte whole o broccoli and disks of thinly shaved beauty pounds heart radish, all topped with yuzu-miso vinaicontain grette and a drizzle of that delicious masagoup by sending us an sign ema mayonnaise. Scallops came perfectly seared pounds atop a cauliflower and burdock root puree, which was tasty, but the whole thing was info@heritagetavern.com the box includes: almost oppressively rich and creamy. whole box contains A fried chicken leg had the most amazing aroma of curry and was perfectly crisp meat, recipes, and a link t 20the pounds of meat box includes: on the outside and moist on the inside, but it smelled better than it tasted. A lamb video chef adan curry, though hearty and filling, was unremeat,featuring recipes, and links you won’t regret it. the boxhow includes: markable and served with white rice. More you to preparechef thedan con exciting and refreshing was a poke bowl, video featuring meat, recipes, and a which features a different preparation daily. sign up by to sending usthe an ce I ended up with big chunks of delicious you how prepare link to a video featuring tuna, seaweed and more of that mintyinfo@heritagetavern.com spicy shiso, which was a perfect complechef dan up showing you sign by sending us an ment to this dish. how to prepare the And don’t forget dessert — Muramoto info@heritagetavern.com is serving housemade custards in little contents. signregret up by it. Mason jars. I tried a ginger flan with salted you won’t

Muramoto Downtown is working out the kinks BY ALLISON GEYER

whole box contains 20 pounds of m

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