Map 21: littleSharkRiver to OysterBay (4.3miles)

Along Shark River is what is perhaps the largest and best developedmangrove forest on earth. Local authors and historians described trees inthat magnificent forestthatmeasured over80feet in height. You won't see any trees quite that tall now, or for quite a number ofyears more, because in 1960Hurricane Donna moved up the Florida coast and tore thetopsout of the tallest trees. The mangrove forest was not totally destroyed, however, anditwillcomebackjust asit undoubtedly hasdoneinthepast.

Hurricanes are just as much a part of the natural features of the everglades as the many fires that ltistorically have burned the open glades. Even now, less than a decade after the violent storm, mangrove saplings have stretched to heights of 15 to 20 feet where the forest was almost leveled by the hurricane. Whereas some areas were hard hit, others withstood the fierce winds, and some tall mangroves can still be seen. One of the best stands can be found near the mouth of the Little Shark River. Heresome ofthe treesare60to 70 feet ltigh.

The Shark River, Little Shark River, and about ten other tributaries flow into a largebay on the Gulf ofMexico-Poncede Leon Bay. Thisbay is named for Juan Ponce de Leon, one of Spain's earliest explorers who twice sailed upthewestcoastof Florida. Onhis secondtripin 1521 Ponce and his crew were attempting to build an encampment onone of theTen Thousand Islands when they were attacked by Calusa Indians and driven backto theirboats. Juan Ponce receiveda mortalwoundduring this attack and died after returning to Cuba. Historians are not certain about the exact location of this attack. Some say it was most likely on Ft. Myers Beach, others say on Sanibel Island. No matter where, Ponce de Leon's namewillalwaysbe associatedwiththesaga of Floridaexploration.

At the northern end of Ponce de Leon Bay the National Park Service has provided another primitivecampsiteon GraveyardCreek. This sitecan bereachedmost easily by following the Shark River to the bay andthen bearing north to Shark Point. If you look closely you may see small hammerheadsharkscruising aroundthispoint.

Graveyard Creek was sonamedbecause of adoublemurder rumoredto have been committed there during the early I920's. It seems, asthe story goes, that two men attempted to steal the coon hides of another pair of coon hunters and were caught intheact. Thewould-bethieves neverwere seen again after the incident, and no one knew what had happened to them until about four years later when one of the menof the other party got drunk and talked about it. Both of the fantilies involved lived in the Everglades City and Lostman's area at the time, and relatives of these families still live nearEvergladesCity.

Map 22: OysterBayto WhitewaterBay viaCormorantPass(4.0miles)

Between the Gulf of Mexico and Whitewater Bay there is asectionofU.S. Coast Guard marked channel. This channel, which opens on the Gulf by way of the Little SharkRiver,passesthrough OysterBay, Connorant Pass, Whitewater Bay, and Coot Bay on the way to Flamingo. USCG marker 48 is the one where the boater should turn if he wants to take the inside waterway north. Upon reaching this marker, the Wilderness Waterway marker 2 can be sighted.

Throughout the Park visitors will notice the dark brown birds that lend their nameto CormorantPass. The double-crested cormorantis commonly found throughout the state of Florida. They canoften be seen perched on snags or stumps at the water's edge or on channel markers where they perch and dry their feathers after they have been in the water. Toobtain food the cormorant submerges and pursues fish,which it attempts to catch in its long hooked bill. Often the cormorant will surface with a fishinits bill,and visitors canwatchhimswallowhismeal whole.

At the southern end of Oyster Bay there is another campsite, the Joe River site. It can be reached by boatingsouth from USCG marker#51 to the southern endofOyster Bay. The site is locatedontheleft bankas you enter Joe River. This site offers a shelter which is patterned after the Seminole Indian chickee.

Billowingcloudsform over theglades in theafternoon

Map 23: WhitewaterBay toMarker 26 (3.5miles)

Fifty to sixty years ago Whitewater Bay did not have as high salinity as it does today. Many rivers, such as the Roberts, Lane, North, and Watson, poured fresh water from the southern glades into the large inland bay. At that time sawgrass extended to the northern edge of the bay and other fresh water vegetation was also evident. A trip into Whitewater Bay now will show that a change has taken place. No longer does the sawgrass come to the water's edge. Salt water tolerant mangrove trees have taken over and surround it. The cause of this change is mainly due to the reduction of the natural flow of fresh water from the glades, resulting in increased salt water intrusion.

During the early J 900's developers and settlers began operations to drain the everglades so that the land could be utilized. At that time most of their efforts were concentrated around Lake Okeechobee. Historically, summer rains deposited water in the Lake Okeechobee region and the water spilled out the southern end of the lake and flowed southward through the wide everglades basin. This th.in sheet of water slowly flowed all the way to Whitewater Bay and the Gulf coast rivers. Developers stopped this flow by building levees around the lake and by providing canals to carry the excess waters out to the Atlantic and the Gul Since that time the everglades dry up a little more each year, and where once the fresh water mass held back the salt water from the Gulf, now saline or brackish waters extend farther and farther inland.

Map 24: WhitewaterBay, Markers26 to 18(2.9 miles)

Campsites available in the vicinity of the southeastern portion of Whitewater Bay include Roberts River, Hells Bay, and Wedge Point. AU three havepicnic tables,grills, andclearingsfor tents.

Wedge Point with its small sandy beach is themost easily accessible,as it isin themiddleof thebayjust east ofUSCG marker 22.

Roberts River campsite can be reached by turning northeast after passing USCG marker# 18 and continuing up the Roberts River for about fivemiles.

The third site, Hells Bay, is the most difficult toreach. Turnnortheast from USCG Marker# 10 (at thenorthernendofTarpon Creek) andfollow the shoreline to East River. Then follow the river across two small bays, then through anarrowstretchofriver tothethirdsmall creekon theright. Then, by following this creek, you should arrive in Hells Bay. But even then you haven't found the campsite. You nexthave to drift southalittle until you see an opening to the northeast known as the "Gates of Hells Bay," and then run north until you find the campsite. By this time you will have figured out the reason for the bay'sname.Beforeattempting to locatethiscampsiteyou shouldobtain theU.S.CoastandGeodeticSurvey Chart598-SC whichdetailsthe area.

F1orida Bay

Map 25: WhitewaterBay, Marker 18 to Tarpon Creek(3.2miles)

From the vicinity of Whitewater Bay, Coot Bay, and Flamingo, boaters have several alternate boat trips available to them. Oneofthe mostscenic trips would be a circuit trip around Cape Sable, or boaters could runout to East Cape, Middle Cape, and NorthwestCapeand backfrom Flamingo.

Cape Sable in French means sandy point, and there are milesofsandy beaches awaiting the visitor. A day on the capes could be spent shelling, swimming,orjustrelaxingon asandybeachin thewarmtropicalsun.

For canoers, Cape Sable can be reached by an inland route. Theroute goes down the Bear Lake Canal, across Gator Lake, across the flooded Cape Sable flats to Lake Ingraham, then through Lake Ingraham or the East Cape Canal to the Cape Sable beaches. One shortportage isinvolved in this trip. Several high spots along the way as well as the Cape Sable beaches provide sites where you can stop overnight or prepare a meal. Before starting this trip be sure to file a float plan and obtain acampfire permit fromthe Ranger Stationat Flamingo.

A second canoe trip can alsobetakeninthis area. Thecanoercanstart either at Flamingo or West Lake Pond, traveling through Long Lake, the Lungs, Alligator Creek,and Garfield Bight on Florida Bay. If you desire to stay overnight there are campsites along the way and on Florida Bay. Checkatthe FlamingoRangerStationfor locations.

In Coot Bay and Whitewater Baybesureto look tothetops of the tall dead mangroves along the water's edge. In these trees bald eagles and ospreys build their huge nests. In this particular area several nests can be seen from the waterway, and during the winter and spring months the birds can often be seen near thenestsites. Eventhough the bald eagle is considered a rare bird, the Park has apopulationofbetween200and250 birds. Research begun in the Park about ten years ago has shown that about 55 pairs of eagles breed annually and that an average ofabout 40 young areproducedeach year.

Insects And Weather

Mosquitoes, sand flies, and other annoying insects are abundant in the Park throughout the summer. Insect repellents are a must during these months.

High humidity and pleasantly warm temperatures characterize the climate of the Everglades. During the summer, temperatures range in the 80's and 90's, and there may be frquent torrential local downpours and lightning storms.

Winters are normally pleasant and clear, but temperatures may drop to a low of 30° in an occasional cold wave.

See also "Storms," p. 36.

Map 26: TarponCreek toButtonwood Canal(3.0miles)

Throughout the mangrove region of the Park evidence of the force of hurricanes is apparent. The boater running up the Buttonwood Canal into Coot Bay and beyond is certain to notice the tall gray trunks that stand like skeletons above the new growthofmangroves. Thecause oftJ1edeath of these once-tall trees was the J960 tropical storm named Donna. Like most hurricanes, Donna came up through the Caribbean, lightly touching the Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico. Her winds were first felt at Flamingo just before midnight on September9, I960.Sometimeduringthe morning of the tenth the windgauge at Flamingoblew downwhenwindsexceeded I50 miles per hour. Donna was not a rainy storm but, typical of most hurricanes, she caused strong surging tides. At I:00 A.M. in the morning the tide was about minus one foot,but by6:00 A.M. the tide hadswelled to 12feet,or about6feetoverthe seawall.

As the storm moved northward along the Gulf Coast huge sections of mangrove forests were torn up, low lying areas including much of Cape Sable were completely cleared, and the tidesurgedinlandformanymiles. Marl deposits around Bear Lake, over two miles inland,were theresult of Dorma's storm tide. The effect Dorma had on the mangrove region was severe and damaging, but not permanent. The mangrove forests are rebuilding. Unlike current man-caused water shortages that may eventually destroy whole sections of the everglades, hurricanes are a natural and recurring eventinthe area's ecology.

Mangrove creek prior to Hurricane Donna

Map 27: ButtonwoodCanal to Flamingo (2.8miles)

Flamingo is at the southern end of the Wilderness Waterway, the marked inside route from Flamingo to Everglades City. If you are beginning the boat trail from this point, be sure to read the general information ("The Wilderness Waterway;•pp. S-0)atthefrontof thisguidebefore embarking. To start your trip from Flamingo, follow the Buttonwood Canal northto Coot Bay.

Stretching southward from the continental United States, the Florida peninsula reaches out for the tropics. Famous for its warm climate, mosquitoes, and excellent fishing, Flamingo is on the southerntip of Florida. A visitor to thearea will find a Park visitorcenterwithamodern museum, a ranger station, a motel,restaurant,boatmarina,campground,andpicnic areas.

Once Flamingo was a small fishing village with weatherbeaten frame buildings standing on stilts out over Florida Bay. Up until 1922 the only way to get to Flamingo was by boat. After that a dirt road was available for those brave travelers willing to attempt the trip. Sudden rain showers could turn the marl road to slippery mud, often delaying travelers for hours or even days. Now the modern Park road provides easy access to Flamingo.

Flamingo is the jumping off point for many exciting boating experiences. The vast expanse of Florida Bay with its many mangrove keys lies to the south. To the west is Cape Sable with its beautiful white sandy beaches, and to the north the vast wilderness of Whitewater Bay and hundredsofmilesof windingmangrovecreeksandrivers.

Boat basin at Flamingo

Backcountry Campsites

When using backcountry camping facilities remember that you are not tl1e only one using the facilities. Many rules and regulations could be written, but the basic thing to remember is to treat your campsite as if you were coming right back and wanted it to be in good condition.

Picnic tables, grills, and trash receptacles arc provided at most campsites. Some campsites have pit toilets. Open campfires may be built at any campsite, but these should be completely obliterated prior to leaving.

It has become necessary to limit camping in the primitive campsites to 14 days between December I and April 30. For the remainder of the year, campers are restricted to 30 days of camping within Everglades National Park. Camping areas may not be reserved; they arc obtained on a first-come, first-served basis.

Primitiv� campsites have been established at the fol.lowing 5ites in the mangrove wilderness section of Everglades National Park:

See Wilderness Water- U.S. Coast and Campsite wayMapNo. Geodetic ChartNo. Gui/CoastArea(Everglades CitytoBroadRiver)

Indian Key (Indian Key Pass to Gulf of Mexico) I

Rabbit Key (Rabbit Key Pass to Gulf of Mexico) I

New Turkey Key (Chatham River to Gulf of Mexico)

Lopez River

Watson Place (Chatham River)

Lostman's River (Mouth of river on Gulf of Mexico)

Onion

Canepatch SharkRiver-CapeSableArea(BroadRivertoFlamingo)

Little Banana Patch Graveyard Creek

Joe River

Wedge Point

Roberts River

Hells Bay

Campingregulations inEvergladesNationalPark

I. Put all garbage in receptacles provided.

2. Use sanitary facilities where provided.

3. Collecting or burning of driftwood is not permitted. Additional cutting of vegetation around cleared campsites is not permitted.