Magazine of culture and and tourism tourism information information Year 20 - N°21/2020
Val Ga Gardena Gar rdena Magazine
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VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
The Val Gardena Magazine is
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This year’s edition is a special anniversary issue, and to celebrate its twenty candles it comes with aThe celebratory MISS ITALIAYears cover book “The Twenty featuring Alice Rachele Arlanch, of exceptional Val Gardena Magazine,” an endorsement indeed.
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PUBLISHER: SNOW EVENTS www.valgardenamagazine.it, info@valgardenamagazine.it EDITORS-IN-CHIEF: Alex Pitscheider COORDINATION: Renè Venturini (Tourist info)
Foto: Alan Bianchi
EDITORS: Leo Senoner, Ludovica Pineider, Filly Vilardi, Sara Senoner, Isabella Penzo, Mandella Quilici, Angelika Schrott, Franco Salghetti Drioli, Angela Stabilini & Fiorenzo Vecchio, Luciano Montrucoli PHOTOS: Alan Bianchi Photography, Dolomites Val Gardena, Ass. Turistica Selva, Diego Moroder, Renè Gruber, Hero, Luca Ribuoli, Bruno Walpoth, Christoph Vinatzer, Vàclav Šedý, Sunpana, Angela Stabilini, Franco Salghetti Drioli, Luciano Montrucoli, Saslong Classic, Foto Planinschek, Snow Events GRAPHIC, DESIGN & PRINT: Grafiche Futura Srl, www.grafichefutura.it
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Twenty years of news, interesting tales, history, characters, events and memories of our beautiful valley; twenty years, during which time the magazine has put down firm roots as a reference guide for tourists due to its continued focus on quality information, wideranging and stimulating topics, and to the link it creates with the people and traditions of the valley, such that it has gone on to become spokesperson in its own right.
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INDEX 150 years from the first ascent of Sassolungo FromIT Postal Inn to Grand Hotel: HOW ALL BEGAN… 4 the Cavallino Bianco 1970: THE WORLD SKI CHAMPIONSHIPS COME TO VAL GARDENA 6 INFOGardena INFOGARDENA 8 Red Cross: 50 Years in Val Gardena VAL GARDENA: THAT’S AMORAI 10 Ladinia and the Olympic Dream A FUNICULAR FOR The Comici hut MONTE PANA? SANTA CRISTINA12 SELVA: THE tastes MEMORIES OURTyrol GRANDPARENTS 14 Traditional from OF South PINOCCHIO 16 Nicol Delago: A winter fairytale PILAT – SKIING INTO THE CENTRE OF ORTISEI 17 Guests tell SKI CHAMPION ALEX VINATZER 18 Dolomitale the world of film to Gardena WHY SPENDbrings A LIFETIME HOLIDAYING IN VALDolomites GARDENA? 20 New UNESCO Geotrail MASI OF THE VAL GARDENA... 22 Highlights 2019 HIGHLIGHTS 2020 26 The ski jump of Vallunga EXTREME UP 28 Val Gardena yesterday and AND todayTODAY VALGARDENA: YESTERDAY 30
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
HOW IT ALL BEGAN…
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his year marks an important anniversary for Val Gardena, and one that that cannot go uncelebrated - not just because, in jubilee style, it is a good round figure, but also because it commemorates an event which had an immense impact on the tourism development of this area: It’s the 50th anniversary of the 1970 World Ski Championships. The event wrote a glorious page in the history of Val Gardena and was pivotal in the expansion of tourism which, until that date, had been dependent upon outdated, rudimentary infrastructure.
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Gardena man Erich Demetz, of the World Championship Organising Committee, confirms: “Before the World Cup in 1970, the summit of the Ciampinëi, from where most of the principal ski slopes of the valley branch off today, was only accessible on foot. Traditional hotels like the historic Oswald hotel in Selva would close down in January due to the complete absence of bookings and, in the same period, the ski instructors occupied their time transporting hay and wood from meadows and woods on elementary wooden sledges. The rare international telephone call had to be booked through a switch-
board, and you had to wait for hours to get a connection. The few ski lifts belonged to different companies or family businesses, and tickets had to be bought on a per-ride basis. A general ski pass system was beyond all imaginings and the parochial outlook made a joint tourism promotion scheme between the three towns of the valley (Ortisei, S. Cristina and Selva) all but inconceivable.” (Maurizio Ferrandi “Quando tutto incominciò). Be that as it may, a small group of tourism and sports operators - with Erich Demetz, Tschucky Kerschbaumer and Edmund Dellago at the helm - embarked on a long, hard
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struggle for the honour of hosting this sporting event of such great magnitude. They were acutely aware of the impact that hosting the Winter Olympics had had on Austrian Tirol through the construction of new ski lifts and new sports facilities which proved crucial to the development of the region, not to mention the immense international media coverage. Val Gardena won the bid, regardless of support in some quarters for the Sestriere bid and the environmental movements that opposed the scheme. Organisation got underway without further ado, and, through a series of favourable circumstances which
occurred in those years involving the entire South Tyrolean economy, the Province was in a position to create a first-rate organisational model and a profound economic revolution which brought wealth and wellbeing. These fortunate “circumstances� were, beyond doubt, the new Autonomy Statute (1972) which devolved considerable competences and vast financial resources to Bolzano, together with the A22 motorway which, with the opening of the last Bolzano-Chiusa section, reached completion and was fully up and running in April 1974. The World Cup showcase acted as a form of springboard of international success for Val Gardena, and consolidated the assignment of an-
nual World Cup races in mid-December: a key period, which would ensure colossal advertising for the entire area. The Superski scheme, strongly advocated by a group of pioneers led by Gianni Marzola, was another significant factor in the upturn in the economy and surge in tourism. Although it was no easy path, the determination and resolve of the people who believed in and wanted change and who never gave up despite the many obstacles, together with the big changes of that time, made it possible for Val Gardena to take its place in the top rankings of ski resorts throughout the world. Filly Vilardi
| DOLOMITES | VAL GARDENA | 5
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
1970: THE WORLD SKI CHAMPIONSHIPS COME TO VAL GARDENA
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rom February 7th to 15th 1970, the 21st Alpine Ski World Championships were held in Val Gardena. A good 4 years earlier, in 1966, the 3 valley communities of Selva, Santa Cristina and Ortisei decided to put their name forward to host the event, competing with a number of famed ski resorts including Davos (Switzerland), Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Germany), Kitzbühel (Austria), Banff (Canada), Naeba (Japan) und Jackson Hole (USA). On May 20th 1967, at the FIS Congress in Beirut (Lebanon), the final decision was made, and the ho-
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nour of hosting the Alpine Ski World Championships was granted to Val Gardena. Alongside the local athletes, one of the driving forces in the organisation of the World Ski Championships was Tschucky Kerschbaumer, Edmund Dellago and Erich Demetz, who later went on to become FISI Vice President, CO.SCU.MA Commissioner and President of the FIS World Cup Committee. Athletes from 28 different nation participated in the Championships, and six races were held on the slopes of Val Gardena. The men’s and
women’s slalom took place on the Ronc slope on Ortisei; the men’s and women’s giant slalom was held on the No.3 slope of the Ciampinoi. The women’s downhill was raced on the Cir slope of the Dantercepies, ending in Vallunga, while the men’s downhill was held on the Saslong slope. The victory for both the men’s and women’s downhill went to Switzerland with Bernhard Russi and Annerösli Zyrd. Austria’s Karl Schranz took the men’s giant slalom title, while Betsy Gifford from Canada won the women’s event, Jean-Noel Augert sped to victory in
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
the men’s slalom, and Ingrid Lafforgue in the women’s slalom. The 1970 World Ski Championships were not only a noteworthy milestone in the history of the valley, but also constituted and important stage in the organisation of major sporting events for a number of reasons, one being that electronic timing equip-
ment had been used for the first time in skiing history; this meant that data could be transferred as quickly as possible with no errors, and made it possible to inform the public, press and television of times and ratings in a fraction of a second: An incredible breakthrough for those times! The immense success of this sporting
event shone the spotlight not only on the outstanding environmental, social and economic structure of the area but, and above all, on its organisational ability. The thorough, painstaking work of the organising committee together with the local authorities, associations and volunteers ensured that the event ran on smoothly-oiled wheels, prompting the International Ski Federation (FIS) to hold other events on the Val Gardena slopes. Ever since, the Saslong downhill has remained a permanent event in the international World Cup calendar. In hosting the 1970 Alpine World Ski Championships, Val Gardena furthered its tourist development to the extent that, in just a few decades, the small valley in the heart of the Dolomites has become one of the most beautiful and well-loved winter tourism destinations. Sara Senoner
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VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
INFOGardena ICE-SKATING Selva Gardena: Sportstadion Pranives, Tel. 0471 794 265 S. Cristina: Iman Centre, Tel. 0471 777 800 (winter only) Ortisei: Car Park Setil (winter only)
TENNIS Selva Gardena: Tennis Centre S. Cristina: Iman Centre, Tel. 0471 793 525 Ortisei: Tennis Centre Roncadizza, Tel. 0471 797 275
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HORSE-RIDING Selva Gardena: Pozzamanigoni Horse-riding school La Selva, Tel. 0471 794 138 S. Cristina: Horse-riding school Monte Pana Ortisei: Horse-riding centre Gardena Cowboy Ranch, Tel. 338 243 09 00
SWIMMING AND SAUNA Ortisei: “Mardolomit” Indoor and Outdoor pool, Tel. 0471 797 131
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
94,2 / 92,6 MhZ RADIO GHERDËINA Ortisei: Rezia Street 116, Tel. 0471 797 415
MUSEUM GHERDËINA Ortisei: Via Rezia, Tel. 0471 797 554
HIGHWIRE ADVENTURE COURSE Ortisei: Emozion Col de Flam Tel. 333 880 60 80 (summer only)
FITNESS-CENTRE Ortisei: Fit 181, Tel. 0471 797 006
VAL GARDENA ACTIVE Selva Gardena: Tel. 0471 777 906 S. Cristina: Tel. 0471 777 800 Ortisei: Tel. 0471 777 600
CLIMBING WALLS Selva Gardena: Nives Square, Tel. 0471 794 133 S. Cristina: Iman Centre, Tel. 0471 777 800 Ortisei: Tennis Centre Roncadizza, Tel. 0471 797 275
ELIKOS FLYING OVER THE TOP www.elikos.com, Tel. 335 788 01 49 / 335 788 01 50
SLEDGING Ortisei: Resciesa
| DOLOMITES | VAL GARDENA | 9
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
VAL GARDENA: THAT’S AMORAI “VITA IN FUGA”, THE NEW RAI FICTION SET IN VAL GARDENA
“I
’ve found everything that I need for the story here: In beauty, in variety, and in architecture.” This is Val Gardena, as described by director Luca Ribuoli who last year shot a number of scenes for the TV series “Vite in fuga” (“Lives on the Run”) in Ortisei, Santa
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Cristina, Selva and the Passo Sella. “A valley of South Tyrol that I wasn’t familiar with,” but which won his heart, in part through “the great hospitality of the local people.” “Vite in fuga” is a 6-part family thriller coproduced by Rai Fiction-PayperMoon Italia, produced by Mario Mauri, and scripted by Filippo Gravino, Guido Iuculano, Giacomo Bendotti, Eleonora Cimpanelli, Flaminia Gressi and Davide Serino. Claudio Gioè, Anna Valle, Barbara Bobulova, Francesco Arca, Giorgio Colangeli, Tobia De Angelis and Tecla Insolia make up the cast. In the series, Claudio and Silvia escape from Rome and, under assumed identities, hide out in Alto Adige where they start new lives from scratch. Val Gardena becomes, then, a central,
living part of the tale - a natural portrait, and the place where the Caruana family, far from the comforts of life in Rome, learn to know and love each other once again. Location shooting was carried out in April and May, “out of season” mon-
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ths which provide the opportunity to experience the mountains in peace and enjoy the beauty to the full. Although many hospitality businesses were closed for the down-season, a good number of them did not hesitate to reopen and offer their support to the TV-series troupe. “We had the good fortune to shoot the scenes out of the tourist season, and in doing so, were able to appreciate the essence of the valley itself,” says Ribuoli. “It’s as if the valley were
your own; you can listen to her and she listens to you.” The mountain of spring is indeed an exultation of colours, scents and never-ending transformation.
Nobody who has ever had the chance to experience it in this season will ever forget it. Mandella Quilici
| DOLOMITES | VAL GARDENA | 11
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
A FUNICULAR FOR SANTA CRISTINA- MONTE PANA?
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funicular equipped to transport up to 1800 people per hour up to the nearby recreational area of Monte Pana is in the offing: Brainchild of a group of five entrepreneurs from Santa Cristina, the proposed “Sunpana” connection between the town centre (Iman centre) and the leisure and tourism hub will attract more visitors to Monte Pana, enhance the appeal of Santa Cristina and ease the flow of traffic in the town centre. 12 | VAL GARDENA | DOLOMITES |
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
The mode of transport proposed by the scheme is a funicular cableway: A fixed rail transit system powered by cable traction, which loops over a pulley at the upper end of the track. The planned line from a valley station in the Iman area to a mountain station in Monte Pana will be 960 m in length and will provide a direct link to the “Mont Sëura” chairlift, thus creating a connection to
the Sella Ronda. According to the plans, a 180 m bridge will cover the stretch over the road and river, and a 200 m tunnel underpass will bypass the existing Pana Strasse. A switch system with an intermediary station is also scheduled at the point where the two carriages meet. The mountain station will be built at the same level as the valley station of the chairlift and fit seam-
lessly into the surrounding landscape, while the valley station will combine with existing facilities and the amphitheatre. The funicular is scheduled to begin operation in winter 2023/2024. Sara Senoner
| DOLOMITES | VAL GARDENA | 13
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
SELVA: THE MEMORIES OF OUR GRANDPARENTS
I am the oldest child in the photo, beside my father
W
e lived in Milan, and I still recall the first air raid sirens warning us of the bombardment which would wreak destruction on half the city. The year was 1940, the very start of the war, and that was why - to get as far away from it as possible - my parents bought a house in Selva, in a magnificent location on the road leading to the Rifugio Firenze mountain hut, not far from the village centre. I was in Primary 2 at the time and went to the local school while my father was 14 | VAL GARDENA | DOLOMITES |
fighting in Dalmatia, where my family came from originally. We stayed in Selva until 1943, after which we went to live with my grandmother, who had a villa on Lake Como. We returned in 1946 and from then on, we opened the house up again the moment school broke up in winter and summer ‌ every year until 1965, when it was sold. We made the journey to Selva on a puffing, wheezing train that took a loop tour of the meadows surrounding the church en-route to the sta-
tion. Rosy-cheeked children waved at the passengers, who waved back through the windows. The war, with all of its turmoil and destruction, was a world away. It was the 40s of the last century and Selva was, to my mind, a magical land of peace waiting to be explored. The people spoke Ladino, a mysterious language, and their lives had for centuries remained identical to that of their forebears. The land provided rye, turnips and hay for the animals. In the evenings, the cattle, goats and
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE sheep would return from the marvellous Vallunga in a symphony of bells and whipcracks, and each one instinctively found its own stall. In autumn, the carrion crows took flight and the thwack of the threshing flail echoed throughout the valleys. And when a storm broke out and the thunderclaps ricocheted and redoubled off the rocks of the Sella, Anselmo the sacristan would run to the church at any time of day or night to ring out the bells that would “protect” the village from lightning. The school was on the second floor, above the town hall. There were two classrooms: one for the first three classes, and the second for years four and five. Affixed to the wall alongside the crucifix there were portraits of King Victor Emmanuel III in general’s uniform adorned with medals, Mussolini with outthrust chin, and an enigmatic Pope Pius XII, white zuccotto atop his head. The school day began with a unison rendition of horrible Fascist songs the likes of Vincere, vincere, vincere! (“Win, win, win!”) and Fischia il sasso, il nome squilla, dell’intrepido Balilla (“The stone whistles, the name resounds, of the intrepid Balilla”). The teacher checked to see if our hands were clean, and if they weren’t we were sent to wash them at the fountain in front of the church in freezing water, replete with icicles in winter. My school friend was Corrado Senoner; in later life he went on to become a priest, then the parish priest of Santa Cristina and subsequently of a
village above Salorno. I walked home with him. We exchanged insults in Ladino: “tën la musa pitl mut” which roughly translates to “shush, child” – a mild rebuke indeed, even for those days. Corrado was the third child of Cristiano and Elisabetta. His father didn’t have many teeth in his mouth, and spoke mainly of the weather: “… fine weather today…yesh…yesh” or “nasty weather today…yesh… yesh”. His mother had dental difficulties of her own, but was somewhat more loquacious. We got our milk from them. They lived at the top of the hill, right behind our house. Bread, sugar, pasta, coffee and meat were all rationed, and to buy them we had to use the ration book distributed by the local council, with coupons which the shopkeeper cut off one by one. The hay was cut in June and Sep-
tember. On every field, the men moved slowly forwards with their scythes, while the women followed behind with forks to wuffle the hay. The smell of freshly-cut hay and the whistling of the scythes filled the air. When the bells rang out the men stopped work and took their hats off, and the women made the sign of the cross. The children, and I was one of them, ran to greet the train which drew exhaustedly into the station where the passengers disembarked and it got its breath back for the final stretch towards Plan, the end of the line. Antonio Mussner and Battista Demetz, true lords of the snow, were my skiing instructors in the immediate post-war years. In summer they returned to their regular jobs: the former was a wood sculptor, and the latter took his cattle up to summer pasture in the Chedul Valley. For their authenticity, their kindness and their affectionate patience, they are two indelible pillars in my memory. And alongside them in my mind’s eye, I still see the images of the mountains, the Sassolungo, the Sella, the Pizzes da Cir… at dusk, when they were bathed in a breathtaking pink that, slowly but surely, vanished into the violet. Franco Salghetti Drioli | DOLOMITES | VAL GARDENA | 15
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
PINOCCHIO
A
tale that has captivated generations and remains popular throughout the world to this day, having been translated into numerous languages, has made its return to the silver screen. Yes, it’s Pinocchio, legendary wooden puppet and eternal miscreant, brought to life as a well-behaved, studious young boy. Every bit as astounding as the story itself is the fact that the star of Matteo Garrone’s modernised version of the film that is taking Italy by storm is… from Val Gardena! The puppet that Roberto Benigni’s Geppetto sculpts from wood is none other than the work of Gardenese artist Bruno Walpoth, whose hands can be seen in the film for a fleeting second while he is working. When interviewed by Francesca Gonzato for the daily newspaper
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“Alto Adige,” Walpoth confirmed that acting together with Benigni was a thrilling experience. Meticulously scrupulous director Matteo Garrone decided on Bruno Walpoth after an exhaustive search for a sculptor who specialised in creating the human form - and our fellow Gardena man is extremely proud of the fact. The wood selected to create Pinocchio was durmast oak, which grows in the pre-Alpine regions and, as you can see in the film, is a yellowish-brown. And so our Val Gardena has reached fame once again, breathing life into a new version of Pinocchio - modern but always true to the original tale, and with an oft-forgotten yet apposite truth: That of relinquishing the life of a puppet in order to become real men. Ludovica Pineider
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
PILAT – SKIING INTO THE CENTRE OF ORTISEI: A DREAM COME TRUE
T
he historic slope leading down from the Alpe di Siusi to the centre of Ortisei is about to be reinstated: In autumn 2019, works got underway to restore the old slope that descends from the mountain station of the Alpe di Siusi and links up with the Ronc and Palmer skiing area of the town. The project was proposed by the tourist association of Ortisei and supported by the local administration, and got the go-ahead from the Provincial Council of Bolzano. The new slope will take the same route as the existing piste, which has fallen into disuse over the past few decades. Apart from a brief stretch in the centre it follows the original route, where entire generations of local skiers have got their grounding in the sport. The project
will be of immense benefit to the area, as it will become an important point of reference for ski lift facilities and skiing infrastructure in the centre of Ortisei, and enhance the tourist image as a whole. 7 bridges totalling 700 metres in length will be built along the 3,900 metres of the slope. The final cost for the restoration of the Pilat slope will be around 7 million euros, not counting snow-blowing systems. The project is a source of great joy to the promoters and the entire skiing population, for whom the reopening of the Pilat slope represents a vital step in ensuring that future generations will grow up with a passion for skiing. The Pilat slope is scheduled to be open to the public from the winter season 2022. Leo Senoner | DOLOMITES | VAL GARDENA | 17
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
SKI CHAMPION ALEX VINATZER MOTIVATED, GOOD HUMOURED, AND AS FAST AS LIGHTNING
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verybody in Val Gardena knows him and, now that he has taken the Junior Slalom World Champion title in 2019 and a podium in the World Cup, Alex Vinatzer has also become something of a household name far beyond the national borders. Together with his two fellow racers from Val Gardena, Nicole Delago and Nadja Delago, the 20 year-old athlete from Selva is a world-class skier of great promise in the Italian team. For the latest issue of Gardena Magazine, the likeable
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skier from Selva joined us for a chat about himself and, naturally, about skiing.
ed never scare you? Alex Vinatzer: Not in the least. I wouldn’t do it if it did.
Gardena Magazine: Professional sportsman and top athlete – It sounds like a dream job of fame and success. What are the factors that really count in making it to the top in ski racing? Alex Vinatzer: It takes good preparation and a lot of training; otherwise it wouldn’t be possible to get a podium place. Gardena Magazine: Does the spe-
Gardena Magazine: There are a lot of expectations on the young members of the national team. Does the pressure get to you? Alex Vinatzer: Naturally, the journalists put pressure on you and the expectations are high, but you have to be able to live with it. Gardena Magazine: What does a
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE slalom and hope to improve my speed in the future. Gardena Magazine: When did you first ski, and what was your first victory? Alex Vinatzer: I first skied when I was three years old. I think I won my first race when I was seven. Gardena Magazine: There are around 80 slopes in the Gardena resort. Do you have a favourite? Alex Vinatzer: The three Ciampinoi slopes.
skier’s body have to withstand? Alex Vinatzer: Above all, many hours of training very week, and the odd fall. Gardena Magazine: What helps you to relax? Alex Vinatzer: Reading or going for a walk. Gardena Magazine: What did you think when the American model Kinsey Wolanski ran out in front of you at the World Cup Slalom in Schladming and triggered the timers? Alex Vinatzer: I didn’t even notice at first. Afterwards, I thought it was funny. Gardena Magazine: Humour seems to be one of your strong points. What other three words would you use to describe yourself? Alex Vinatzer: Calm, positive and motivated. Gardena Magazine: Do you remember any other exciting or funny incidents during races? Alex Vinatzer: Nothing like that had ever happened to me before. Kristian Ghedina had a deer run out in front of him, though.
Gardena Magazine: How do you motivate yourself before a race? Alex Vinatzer: I’m always motivated, to be honest, so I don’t have to do anything in particular. Gardena Magazine: More than anything, skiing involves a lot of training. What are your takeaways from this? Alex Vinatzer: I’m still young, but I can say that I’ve learnt something: When you want to achieve something, you have to work for it! Gardena Magazine: And in summer? Alex Vinatzer: In summer I train six days a week morning and afternoon, so I never have much time for holidays at any time of the year. Gardena Magazine: What sporting achievement are you particularly proud of? Alex Vinatzer: Of my victory at the Junior World Championships in 2019. Gardena Magazine: Do you just train for slalom, or are you thinking about taking up other disciplines? Alex Vinatzer: I also train in giant
Gardena Magazine: South Tyrol cuisine is famed for its delicacies. What’s your favourite meal? Alex Vinatzer: To be honest, I enjoy all of it and it would be a hard choice to make. Gardena Magazine: Can skiers always eat whatever they want? Alex Vinatzer: They can, yes, but it’s not healthy. We do watch what we eat. Gardena Magazine: Can you imagine being anything other than a skier? Alex Vinatzer: Not for the moment. Gardena Magazine: As a top athlete, you travel the world. Why do you like coming back to Val Gardena? Alex Vinatzer: Because it‘s my home, and it’s just beautiful. Gardena Magazine: Val Gardena in winter or summer? Alex Vinatzer: In winter. Gardena Magazine: Do you have your own personal motto? Alex Vinatzer: Never take yourself too seriously!
Interview: Angelika Schrott | DOLOMITES | VAL GARDENA | 19
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE GUESTS TELL...
WHY SPEND A LIFETIME HOLIDAYING IN VAL GARDENA?
T
his is the story of a family who, like many others, have been coming to the Valley for 10…20…60
years! Yes, there are a lot of us - more than you could begin to imagine. Naturally, these sojourns of ours are no longer those of a straightforward “tourism” as it is generally perceived, but an abiding love for Val Gardena, which we have passed down to our daughter Sara and on yet again to her own daughter Giorgia! Our relationship with Val Gardena began in 1982. When we arrived at the Belmont with our 3 year-old daughter Sara, the first breathtaking glimpse of the Sassolungo would hold us in its thrall forevermore. As one might expect, we spent our first few Augusts getting to know the area, the paths and the mountain huts. Later, slowly but surely during traverses
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various, we became better acquainted with the rocks as well. At any rate, right from the very first moment, the valley lit a spark inside us and spurred us onwards to keep doing more, to keep climbing higher.
We studied the trail map assiduously to plan the itineraries which would keep us occupied for days at a time: Traversing the Sella in both directions (Passo Pordoi – Passo Gardena); crossing the Sassolungo over the Demetz saddle, looping
1982 with our daughter Sara
2020 with our granddaughter Giorgia, Sara’s daughter
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE round the Sassolungo and Sassopiatto, the Stevia, the Resciesa, the Malga Brogles and over the Pan saddle to the Mastlè mountain pasture, the Alpe di Siusi back to Monte Pana, and many other routes which were easier to tackle but overflowing with history and art, like the S. Giacomo chapel and the ancient farmsteads, all of them abounding in the same breathtaking beauty and countryside as every trail you come across. The splendour of nature in this valley is so open-handed that even today, after 37 years of intense holidaymaking here, we are still amazed by new discoveries, such as the many lesser-known lakes on the Cisles and Mastlè mountain pastures, mirrors of water where the Sassolungo, Sella and Odle, ablaze in the sunset, reflect all of their magnificence. Recently, we have forged an even closer bond with the mountains of Val Gardena: On the cusp of our 60s, we have begun to climb the via ferrata trails (Tridentina, Schuster, Sass Rigais, Piz Duleda, the small and big Cirs and other routes outwith the valley), where the intimate contact with the Dolomites pervades us with vitality and positive energy. Not, it must be said, without a little trepidation prior to tackling the feat, but the moment we touch the rock our fears vanish as if a spell has been cast upon us! Over the past few years we have had the good fortune to enjoy our “getaways” to the Valley more often, and come practically every season; roughly once a month we are delighted to make the 385 km journey so that we can get to know it in every one of its stunning seasonal nuances. During these recent trips we have seen the Valley at the moment when nature surges into life once more in spring, just after the snow has melted and the vibrant colours of the crocus, the pulsatilla, the primulas and the gentians and columbines explode. On the slopes of the Sassolungo, the Sella and the Cirs there are also endless floral bursts of moss campion, white dryads, Alpine poppy, rampion and many more varieties.
Renè Gruber
It’s almost impossible for the mind to grasp just how much life pulsates amongst the rocks of these magnificent natural cathedrals, here at the outer edges of existence! And then we come to summer, when all traces of snow have disappeared except for the odd patch in the higher mountains, when there are no limits to where we can go, and we are even more spoilt for choice in our excursion options. In autumn, the woodland is resplendent in the greens of the firs and the gold of the larch needles just before they fall; If you happen to be in the middle of the woods at this time of year you are likely find yourself enveloped in a cloak of wind-blown needles, and the air is suffused with magic. We make the trip to Val Gardena in winter too. We’re not skiers, but we can manage to do pretty much all the walks that we do in summer. The countryside is different, naturally: As breathtaking as ever, but less accessible. The evocative Christmas atmosphere at the markets, filled with scents of cinnamon, aniseed, cloves and the warm light bathing the wooden market stalls, decorated with
refined good taste, curious handmade works of art and exquisite sweet treats… They all heighten the magic of Val Gardena, and transform it into the Valley of Christmas. When strolling around the markets of Santa Cristina, Selva and Ortisei, it is all so easy to simply surrender to the magic and become a child again. Love for Val Gardena is like a boomerang that comes back to you filled with incredible emotions, different in every season. And completing and strengthening this bond with Val Gardena are our many friendships with the Gardenese people, friendships forged because they could see our desire to live the “normal” everyday life of the valley. We wish them all a warm, heartfelt THANK YOU! To be close to Val Gardena even when we’re far away, we have set up a facebook group to share photos, films, comments, experiences and emotions, and talk every day about this incredible valley with other friends who love it as much as we do.
Fiorenzo Vecchio & Angela Stabilini | DOLOMITES | VAL GARDENA | 21
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
MASI OF THE VAL GARDENA THE MEMORY OF A LANDSCAPE
Maso Biei, XIII century (Foto Vàclav Šedý)
O
ne exhibition in Val Gardena is dedicated to mountain farms, or mejes to give them their Ladino name. Featuring over 70 black and white photographs by photographer Vaclav Sedy, it provides a remarkable illustrative insight into the architectural peculiarities of these buildings. They are contemporary photographs; the exhibition looks to the future rather than the past, and aims to draw our attention on the value of these ancient farmsteads. These farmhouses which are so intrinsic to the landscape are of immeasurable architectural value. When we come across them immersed in the greens of the meadows and woodland in the summer months and the white snows of winter, we
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behold them in awe. It was nature who laid the criteria for their construction, and the surrounding area which provided the materials - the wood, stones and sand assembled by expert hands, purpose-designed to meet the requisites for life in these climes. These buildings are the product of skilled construction work in bygone centuries, and the essence of their allure remains to this day their minimalist practicality and seamless harmony with the countryside. They are located at 1,200 to 1,700 m in altitude, and are found mainly on the south-facing right hand side of the valley. The mejes farmstead consists of one part for the family and one for the farm. Some are a single “butt ‘n’ ben” style house, and
others comprise two separate buildings, with the layout varying to suit the morphology of their terrain. Farm life was hard and there were none of the modern conveniences that we take for granted today but, for the people who lived there, this was the normal way of things. It was a life lived in symbiosis with nature, marked by the changing of the seasons and holy festivals. And thus, it was the surrounding environment and climate alone that defined the architecture of the farm buildings. The Stube was the heart of the home: The whole family spent their lives here around the only stove in the house, particularly in the winter months. Likewise, it was around the Stube that the history
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE of wood sculpting began: A history which, in later years, would journey its way around the world and make the valley one of the richest in the Alpine region. The kitchen and cellar were of vital importance for survival, as was - given the need for self-sufficiency - the workshop. Preservation of these farms is not just centred on the buildings themselves but encompasses, in a wider sense, the history of the valley. They bear witness to how the region has been governed, and to the people who have lived here, from the Middle Ages onwards. The oldest farms date back to 13th century, and the discovery that a number of ancient documents which make reference to small, rural dwellings in the middle of the countryside is little short of staggering: This is the case with the Peza farm, located in the field just after you come out of the forest trail in San Giacomo. Confirmation that the farms which we see today date far back in time is based on dendrochronological testing to analyse the wood of the buildings, thus determining the date it was used in construction. Over the past century, progress has led to a form of development which has held the value of these farms in little regard. Compared to modern-day standards many of these buildings are no longer fit for habitation and, given that few of them come under listed building protection, they are at risk of being quietly demolished, silent participants in the loss of the valley’s historical and cultural identity. Unfortunately, the Carta dei Masi (“Map of the Farms”) published by the Museum Gherdëina in 2015 confirms this trend. Through this exhibition, Paulina Moro-
Maso Peza, XIII century (Foto Vàclav Šedý)
Maso Paratoni, stube (Foto Vàclav Šedý)
Maso Mëune, (Foto Vàclav Šedý)
der, Director of the Museum Gherdëina and Wolfgang von Klebelsberg, initiator of the project, architect and expert in the conservation of ancient buildings, aim to promote awareness of the value of these farms. A number of other academics in the sector contributed to the illustrated catalogue, including anthropologist Annibale Salsa, member of the UNESCO Dolomites Foundation which, as one of the patron institutes of the exhibition provide further confirmation of its worth. The project also has a wider scope: guided tours to the farms have been offered during pleasant countryside walks, and conferences have been held to promote public awareness and to encourage the mejes farm owners to recognise the great value that their property holds; these farms should not evoke memories of past hardships, but should continue to be a source of pride for future generations. The purpose of the exhibition is that of heritage preservation, and, as such, the search for an alternative to demolition and a new purpose for the farms after restoration. In Val Gardena we already have a number of beautiful examples of repurposing and we hope to see more in the future as we stroll along the meadows and trails of the Valley. Isabella Penzo | DOLOMITES | VAL GARDENA | 23
Piazza Chiesa 39048 Selva - Val Gardena Tel.: +39 0471 795 392 Piazza S. Antonio 39046 Ortisei - Val Gardena Tel.: +39 0471 786 504 web: www.extremefashion.it E-mail: info@extremefashion.it
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
HIGHLIGHTS 2020 www.valgardena.it
Winter 2019/2020
01.02.2020
Ice hockey Alps Hockey League
Dolomites Val Gardena - Xtreme Up
22/29.03.2020
21.03.2020
Rock the Dolomites Winter Musik Festival in the Dolomites
Spring Race Party
04.04.2020
Summer 2020
Südtirol Gardenissima & Südtirol Gardenissima Kids
Long evenings and aperitif
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VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE 20.06.2020
27.06.2020
HERO Kids & HERO Südtirol Dolomites Marathon - mountainbike-marathon
Sella Ronda Bike Day Pass-roads open to bicycles only
August 2020
Summer 2020
Val Gardena summer festival
Idea Unika Ortisei
Oktober 2020
December 2020 SCAN
Sparkasse Apt Challenger male & female
Val Gardena The Christmas valley in the Dolomites
18/19.12.2020
27/30.12.2020
Val Gardena Gröden: Men’s Super G and Men’s Downhill
Snow sculptures contest
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VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
EXTREME UP
T
he picturesque village of Selva di Val Gardena stands out for its “sporting soul� and is a regular destination for sports and countryside enthusiasts in summer and winter
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alike. Hot on the trail of the immense success of the classic Ski World Cup in December and just before the Gardenissima - on 1 February 2020, to be
precise - top athletes put their stamina to the test in the XTREME UP DOLOMITES VAL GARDENA VERTICAL UP circuit. The circuit is made up of 3 stages: Selva Val Gardena, Madonna di Campiglio and Kitzbuehel, a distinguished network which offers participants even more value and prestige. The race is the brainchild of Selva Tourist Office together with Luciano Montrucoli (Saltos Mountain Xtream), with the aim of bringing a new, different sporting event to our magnificent valley. Athletes participating in XTREME UP DOLOMITES VAL GARDENA have to contend with 720 metres of elevation difference and 2,320 metres of distance, and conquer the summit of
VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
the Ciampinoi slope no 3 in as short a time as possible. The key detail is clear: from bottom to top… and it’s no mean feat! The winner of the 2019 race, Michael Zemmer, took just 26:45 minutes to complete the ascent, while Birgit Klammer won the women’s title in just 35:41... absolutely mind-boggling. Unbelievably, the 2020 athletes managed to get the times down even further: The winner of the men’s Speed category was, once again, Italy’s Michael Zemmer with a time of 26:06, followed by Christian Moser, also from Italy, in second place and Austria’s Martin Schneider in third. Italy’s Susanne Mair won the women’s category at 29:18, followed by Mojca Koligar from Slovenia in second place and
Austria’s Marlies Penker in third. The race also features a para-category, for the real superheroes. We have done our utmost to organise a race which both meets the expectation of the most technically-minded racers and is also a fun event for participants who simply want to give themselves a bit of a challenge. I believe that participating in a competition like this, no matter whether you’re in the Speed or the Backpack category, always has a very special flavour: The beauty of the countryside in our valley, the lights, the flaming torches, the exertion, the battle against oneself and others with friends or team mates, are all a source of immense satisfaction irrespective of where you are placed.
The race begins at the Pra da Freina (1,560 m) and ends at the Ciampinoi (2,280 m). The two categories of Speed and Backpack have no rules whatsoever, and participants are therefore free to choose their trajectory and equipment; the only stipulation is that they must reach the top under their own steam alone. The first to make it to the top is declared winner of the Speed category, while in the “just for fun” Backpack class, the person closest to the average time of all those competing takes the title. Athletes who decide to tackle the 4 faces of the Ciampinoi slope no. 3 must be in peak physical condition; the Crep dla Trei slope before the refreshments area is an arduous trial indeed even for the best of athletes, who then have the chance to get their breath back along the straight 200 m stretch to the Pra da Ronch. But it doesn’t end here: Immediately afterwards, competitors have to reckon with the steep uphill challenges of the final leg. We’ll be waiting for you here in Val Gardena for next year’s race on 30 January 2021. Luciano Montrucoli
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VAL GARDENA MAGAZINE
VALGARDENA...
... YESTERDAY AND TODAY
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