Lights, camera, action What’s the best route to enjoy all of Madrid’s spectacular Christmas lights and sights? Stephanie Kramer suggests an itinerary, on foot and by bus, for you to experience the city’s illuminations
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Oh Christmas lights, light up the street, light up the fireworks in me, may all your troubles soon be gone, those Christmas lights keep shining on.” Those are the lyrics that end Coldplay’s 2010 single, “Christmas Lights”, and the words must resonate at this time of year in cities all over the world as “switching on” ceremonies sprinkle dark streets with illuminations. To make the most of Madrid’s festive decorations, we cheerfully suggest the following route. So grab your partner’s hand, or pop in your iPod headphones, and treat yourself to a different sort of city night out.
here too. The buses stop outside the Hotel Wellington (stop 423) at the start of the street (lines 1, 9, 19, 51, or 74).. Velázquez contains a few mainstream stores such as H&M (no. 36) and Sfera (47), but one interesting stop is Natura Love (48), where cute Christmas gifts can be found. The Christmas lights stretching across Velázquez are best described as twiggy—lit up in white and giving a Christmas extension to the natural trees that line the pavements. As you progress along Velázquez, glance left and right at Calle Goya, to take in the street’s multi-coloured Christmas boxes, dangling high in the air.
Calle Serrano
Calle Ortega y Gasset
Our starting point is El Corte Inglés, at the junction of Calle Serrano with Calle Ortega y Gasset. The Spanish department store is a legend for Christmas gifts, but outside you’ll find its Christmas cabin, with nativity scenes on one side, and wonderful animated polar bears on the other. One of Madrid’s traditional merrygo-rounds stands next to it. Serrano itself has an array of circular and semi circular lights stretching across the street, illuminated in red, white, blue and green, all designed to dazzle. The street is home to a number of famous stores, including Agatha Ruiz de la Prada (usually wonderfully colourful), along with Cartier (no. 74), Zara (61) and Gucci (49). You can stroll and shop if you wish, or hop on the bus—lines 1, 9, 51, or 74 at stop 449 (by the cabin).
The next change is at the junction of Velázquez and Ortega y Gasset. (If you’re on the bus, it’s stop number 426, just before this point). Turning left out of Velázquez, a short stroll is preferable here, as Ortega y Gasset is lavishly decorated with dozens of metres of red tinsel and giant silver chandeliers. The street’s décor definitely reflects its businesses. If you are a luxury bag, shoe or clothing addict, this is the street for you. Prepare yourself, and your bank account, as you walk past stores such as Chanel (no. 14), Dolce & Gabbana (also 14), Louis Vuitton (17), Tiffany & Co (10) and many more. Take a deep breath and a stiff drink before treating yourself, or if you wish, your puppy-eyed loved one. Continue across Serrano (almost passing the starting point of this route) and onwards down to the famous Paseo de la Castellana. Cross over the Paseo, turning left.
Puerta de Alcalá It’s a short journey down Serrano to the magnificently lit Puerta de Alcalá. By bus, get off at stop 161 (right on the roundabout)—a great spot to take pictures of the Puerta. Then there’s a short stretch on foot, heading up Alcalá, keeping the Retiro Park on your right, and turning left into Calle Velazquez.
Calle Velázquez There’s an option to walk or take the bus from
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Paseo de la Castellana Sparkly Christmas decorations adorn each and every tree here, giving a star-like effect. You can walk the length to Cibeles, or from bus stop 61 (near the Ministerio Interior), lines 5, 14, 27, 45, and 150 will minimise your footwork. Your destination is Plaza de Cibeles, served by bus stop 73, immediately before the Cibeles statue.
Calle Alcalá and Gran Vía From Cibeles, you can make your way up Alcalá and Gran Vía on foot, or again you can continue by bus. Gran Vía is a great place to amble, due to its shops and restaurants, but bus line 146 from stop 69 on Plaza Cibeles will transport you in the same direction as far as Plaza del Callao. The lights on Gran Vía are vertical strips of varying height, which seem to mirror the buildings. The thoroughfare is also enhanced by the neon signs of cinemas and theatres, and holds all of the famous, lower-cost brands— Bershka (no. 25), Stradivarius (30) and a large, 3-storey Zara (34). There are plenty of food and drink possibilities too, with restaurants such as Umami (no. 10, fusion restaurant for burgers or Asian stirfrys), Mercado de la Reina (12, for quick pinchos, or a full meal), and a little further past Plaza del Callao, a brand new restaurant from the Madrid radio station, Cuarenta Café (55). At Callao, which hosts a large Christmas tree and another El Corte Inglés cabin, you’ve reached the gateway to Madrid’s most lively walking area.
Calle de Preciados and Sol From Callao, head down Calle de Preciados, dominated by another El Corte Inglés and the electronics/computer store Fnac, to Sol— its tall electric Christmas tree, with red and green lights, should be shining bright. From here it’s only on foot; the immediate right turn is Calle Arenal, a pedestrianised shopping street, often thriving with street performers, that leads to Ópera and then to the Royal Palace. Watch out for the masses of people as you’re staring at the orbs that spread down the street. For a short detour, turn left from Arenal into Calle San Martin, to find “Cortylandia”. This spectacle covers the façade of the El Corte Inglés store, and comprises innumerable Christmas characters, which come to life every few minutes in
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Photo (CC) flickr: Alex_E_Proimos
an array of movement and song. Cut back to Arenal, and stroll first to Ópera, and then to end at the wonderful Royal Palace, either side of which are fantastic views of the west of the city. As an alternative to Arenal, the second right turn from Sol is Calle Mayor, with sidestreets leading to Plaza Mayor, where you’ll find countless restaurants, including a crêperie called Mimi’s (C/Postas, 17) that is just to die for. In the Plaza is Madrid’s famous Christmas market, providing a beautiful Christmas scene beneath the lights and decorations, with the stalls selling every conceivable item for nativity scenes and Christmas trees. Tired? Taking a right turn (Calle de los Coloreros) from Calle Mayor, or a left turn (Pasadizo de San Ginés, at the side of the club Joy Eslava) from Calle Arenal, seek out Madrid’s hidden churros y chocolate gem— Chocolatería San Ginés. Don’t be afraid to indulge in the chocolatey goodness—if you’ve got this far, you’ve earned it.
DECEMBER 2011
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