MOM’s thE WORD fOR CRyING OUt LOUD Written by Linda a. Carson, JiLL daum, aLison KeLLy, robin niChoL, barbara PoLLard and deborah WiLLiams ProduCed by marquis entertainment and the mom’s the Word CoLLeCtive
MAR 19 - APR 6
the original ‘moms’ are back in this latest installment in the hilarious Mom’s the Word series. From the terrible twos to the terrifying teens and beyond, experience the frustrations, embarrassments and dizzying joys of parenthood.
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PHOTO OF THE MONTH What’s making us smile German Chancellor Angela Merkel drinks beer as she attends the 18th ash Wednesday of the Christian Democratic Union on February 13, 2013 in Demmin, Germany. (Stefan Sauer/AFP/Getty Images)
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TABLE OF CONTENTS 16 BREAK-OUT SUCCESS
Double Trouble Brewing
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PEOPLE TO SEE Fun Out-On-The-Town
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DRINKS TO TRY Gluten-Free Beer Review
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PEOPLE TO SEE Mixing with DJ 3verfresh
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FOOD PLACES TO GO Food for St. Patrick’s Day
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MUSIC PEOPLE TO SEE Sweet Leaf Garrett Rocks
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DRINK PLACES TO GO Cask Beer in London
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FUN PLACES TO GO Upcoming Promotions
APPERITIFS Tasty Bites of News
DRINK PEOPLE TO KNOW Remembering Glatt Beer
Do you have the best home bar or wine cellar? Show it off! Write us at editor@ indulgemag.com
INDULGEmag.com | March 2013
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FROM THE EDITOR
O
ur March issue has a beer theme so it is only fitting that with the opening of Forked River, London’s newest craft brewery, we reflect upon our city’s beer scene, past, present and future. We look back to Glatt Brothers’ Brewing, London’s previous independent brewer, cask beers, and the North American Craft consignment agency which gives a nod to what some might see as the future direction of the brewing industry. Back to the future, so to speak. And so as to not ignore our wineloving readers, do not forget to sign up for Indulge Magazine’s March 28th tasting. Cheers, A. PAUL MITCHELL
Follow Paul on Twitter: @apaulmitchell
Contributors KATHY RUMLESKI
Enjoys wine, any colour, beef, any cut, and a night of great friends and good music.
JAIME BURNHAM
Mother of two girls balancing career and enjoying finer things like wine, cheese, and travel.
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INDULGEmag.com | March 2013
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF A. Paul Mitchell CONTRIBUTORS Stephanie Sargent, Michelle Grace, Kathy Rumleski, Brittany Dakins, Jared McAdam, Milos Kral, A. Paul Mitchell PHOTOGRAPHY A. Paul Mitchell, Jaime Burnham OUR THANKS Dana James, Jim Evans, Steve Mara & Peter Calvert SUBSCRIPTIONS Print subscriptions are FREE within the London area. Visit indulgemag.com to sign up! ADVERTISING National Advertising advertising@indulgemag.com Retail & Lifestyle Brands Food & Beverage Trade Mark Herbrand, 519 / 852-3765 mark@indulgemag.com MARKETING & EVENTS pmitchell@indulgemag.com ARTICLE/PHOTO REPRINTS Contact our office for pricing. INDULGE MAGAZINE 922 William Street London, Ontario N5Y 2S6 Telephone: 519 / 852-3765 editor@indulgemag.com indulgemag.com
BRITTANY DAKINS
Self-proclaimed foodie, avid traveler and soonto-be media grad.
STEPHANIE SARGENT
Likes meeting new people, tasting whiskeys and enjoying nightlife with friends.
Indulge Magazine, Business Registration #220995989, is published nine times a year. March 2013, Issue #003 CANADA POST: Send delivery changes to address above. Publisher Agreement PM42520024 Contents copyright © 2013 Indulge Magazine. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means without prior written permission from the publisher. Opinions expressed in Indulge Magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Indulge Magazine does not assume responsibility for claims by its advertisers or contributors. All unsolicited materials submitted become the sole property of the company.
WHAT HAPPENS WHEN CANADIANS GET TOGETHER? DUBLIN’S ABOUT TO FIND OUT. Molson Canadian is giving away a TRIP TO DUBLIN! Be HERE for your chance to WIN†
To see how you can enter, ask our staff, check out our Facebook page, or visit www.molsoncanadian.ca
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APERITIFS Tasty News Bites To Whet Your Appetite
According to Agri-Food Canada, Canadians consumed 24.5 kg of red meats, beef, pork, mutton and veal in 2007
What is better with beer than huge slabs of meat cooked over coals? The Biggest Green Egg serves up 14 rack of ribs or 24 burgers with no problem! Available at Hendrix Restaurant Supply for $1,499.99. www.hendrixequip.com
Modern technology meets classic Japanese and Korean dining. The new all-you-can-eat restaurant at Oxford and Wonderland uses wifi tablets to let customers order their own small plates on-demand. Read our restaurant review on page 27. www.168sushibuffet.com
New Microbrewery Opens in London Receiving considerable attention from beer drinkers and local news outlets alike, Forked River Brewing Company announced its arrival on the city’s brewing scene. London residents and Western graduates David Reed, Andrew Peters, and Steve Nazarian (an engineer and two microbiologists, all experienced homebrewing competitors) promise to brew all-natural, unfiltered, and unpasteurized products. The still uncompleted Forked River facility on 45 Pacific Court encompasses over 3,000 square feet with the capacity to ferment over 4,400 litres of beer. The
brewhouse is capable of producing approximately 1,000 litres in a single batch. They look to start supplying select London bars and restaurants in the spring of 2013. The expected Forked River product line includes: • Capital Blonde: an easydrinking, balanced blonde ale full of malt and hop flavour. • Riptide Rye: a hop-forward pale ale brewed with Canadian prairie malt. • Seasonal specialty beers available throughout the year. They plan to provide brewery tours, cask ales, barrel-aged beer, and sales of half-gallon growlers. •
Recent Bar Closings: The tough bar industry said goodbye to several London businesses in February. Blue Ginger, Burlesque Nightclub and the John
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INDULGEmag.com | March 2013
If your brain is getting overheated from too much work, put it on ice. Uber Cool on Dundas offers a funky ice tray that forms cubes into the shape of your brain. That is putting your head to good use! $11.00. www.ubercoolstuff.com
Established in 1990, Magnotta Winery has seven retail locations in Ontario and is Canada’s most award-winning winery with over 3,500 medals
For those times when you have an old-time bottle of beer without a screwtop, use this functional and fun bottle opener ring to be the hero. Brushed stainless steel makes it a cool fashion statement that shows off your love of beer! Only $5.00 for two. www.kingsmills.com
Joe Kool’s Celebrates 30 Years in Business Joe Kool’s celebrated their 30th anniversary on March 2, and according to 24-year veteran General Manager Ron Scarfone, it has been the dedication of patrons and staff that have made the place a London landmark. “I love how the community embraces us, whether it’s St. Patrick’s Day, American Thanksgiving, bowling a frozen turkey down the aisle, or having a fiddle player play on top of the bar. It seems like this is a place everyone wants to come to and enjoy,” Scarfone says. Manager Ben Smith has spent a decade at Kool’s and says it has
changed his life. “I spent all of my twenties here. It is a huge part of my family; this is where I met my wife.” With thirty years and counting, Scarfone says success could not have happened without support. “Thanks to the patrons who have been coming here for years, thirty years is a long time in our industry to survive, and that takes a huge team, lots of work and a lot of support from the community.” According to Molson Representative, Jeff Carr, “Joe Kool’s is the great meeting place in London and has been for 30 years. Molson is proud to be a partner with Joe Kool’s, a legendary landmark led by Mike Smith, a great business man and member of the London community.” So what is expected to happen 30 years from now? “We aren’t getting any younger,” Scarfone says, “but for now let’s just keep on having fun and keep on rolling.” Business as usual it seems. •
Scott Party Pub and Danceteria (which Indulge Magazine wrote about in our January 2013 issue) all closed their doors for good. While the two clubs were
INDULGEmag.com | March 2013
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PEOPLE TO SEE Who We Have Seen Out-On-The-Town
Grand Theatre Presents a Night of Scotch and Chocolate A total of 150 whisky lovers attended a special night on February 9 to pair the “waters of life� with chocolate. Four Beam scotches and one bourbon were paired with tuffles and bon-bons from Lindt and Camino. Clockwise from top: Marc Laverdiere, brand ambassador for Highland Park and McCallum, presents at the Master Class; Kyle Armstrong, Natalie Cram and Matt Davis enjoy their tasting; selections of scotch and chocolate; Grand Theatre Executive Director, Deb Harvey samples with George Lyttle of CIBC Wood Dundy, the title sponsor for the event. relatively recent start-ups, Blue Ginger and its Red Lounge on the second floor enjoyed a long history on Richmond Row. | Kittling Ridge Winery was
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Valentine’s Day Sampling! To help couples get into the romantic frame of mind, Bill Wittur of Noteworthy Wines poured free samples of Zantho ‘blanc de noir’ sparkling wine at Bungalow Neighbourhood Hub on February 14. The sampling promotion introduced patrons to new wines available at the restaurant.
Mill St. Launches Its Tank House Ale at Jack Astor’s Ryan Messier, Western Ontario Territory Manager for Mill St. Brewery, was pouring tasting samples on February 20 at Richmond Row’s Jack Astor’s to launch their Tank House Ale on tap. Their Organic Lager will be pouring during the summer. Good time for all thanks to Lindsay “LJ” Johnstone (2nd from right) and her fun-loving team.
“I Seek To Understand... A Beer!” Nicholas Campbell, as conspiracy theorist Ray, expresses his desires, much to the exasperation of Adam, portrayed by Stephen Gartner. The dramatic thriller Yankee Tavern, presented at the Grand Theatre, takes place within the confines of a run-down bar. A plot summary and more photos are available at www.indulgemag.com. purchased by Magnotta in February, doubling the number of their retail stores. Owner John Hall sold the winery to focus on his 40 Creek Distrillery.
INDULGEmag.com | March 2013
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PEOPLE TO SEE
Get Fresh DJ 3verfresh is the Man About Town Mixing It Up
Article by
Stephanie Sargent
Y
ou see him jumping around, dancing and even singing along to the tracks blaring through the speakers. He is DJ 3verfresh, spinning records and filling dance floors at clubs throughout the city.
3verfresh performs Mondays at Fitzrays, Tuesdays at The Rocks on King, Thursdays at Martini Bar (for ‘Fat Black Pussy Cat’ night) and Saturdays at Club Onyx
Whether he knew it or not as a child, 3verfresh’s dad was also a DJ. ”I was bred into it,” he says. “My dad would spin while I was in a hanging pouch over his shoulders and I would fall asleep while he played music.” 3verfresh had just become a teenager when he moved to London to live with his Dad. “I didn’t know he was a DJ till then. At 14 I really started to DJ instead of just borrowing my stepdad’s records to play with.” He was 15 when his Dad started taking him to London bars to DJ. “It was kind of a gimmick
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letting the kid spin records but it’s where I got my start.” Not long after, he got his solo start. “I started to DJ at The Shot [a former bar at York and Talbot], and now I play in Vegas and Detroit but London is one of the best per-capita places to play. If you can make it in London you can make it anywhere.” 3verfresh feels that London crowds are amazing. “I love this city and their crowds. There is nothing like this city. I’m pretty sure I’ve made babies…” He then pauses to reflect on his words. “Wait, let me correct that. I think people have made babies because of nights I’ve been part of.” 3verfresh believes that lackluster DJs create awkward moods and receive poor reactions from crowds as a result. He feels it •°
is up to the DJ to control the party and, by extension, the crowd.
A Drink with...
3verfresh’s favorite part of being a DJ is “controlling the night. It’s like reading a good book; you need a denouement – yes, I said denouement – a middle and an end.” He feels it is all about balance between the hyped-up and the low-key. “It’s not about playing the just hits but about playing good music.”
Top of the Fair
TOP 5 FEBRUARY SONGS Eric B & Rakim - Mohagany 2player - Extreme Possibilities (Wagon Christ mix) Metallica - Wherever I May Roam Cris Cab - Rihanna’s Gun (ft. Mavado & Wyclef Jean) A Tribe Called Quest - Can I Kick It
Doug Conrad
Interview by
Michelle Grace
What inspires your cooking style? People. We live in such a diverse world of colours, shapes and flavours and I play with those to bring an exciting meal to the table. The smile on peoples’ faces is my insperation. What is your favourite meal to cook? Dinners for friends and family. Cooking with your heart for loved ones is the best feeling. That’s where every great chef gets their start.
What about requests? “I love them. It’s good to know what people are listening to. If I don’t have it, I’ll download it and mix it in. You have to know your crowd.” 3verfresh will mix anything from 50 Cent to Skrillex to Tool. “It’s about the beats, not just playing songs that are ‘new.’ What’s new to one person could be an old favorite to someone else.”
What is the one spice you cannot live without? I love cooking with fresh basil. The flavour properties lend themselves so well to so many ingredients, it is very versatile.
One unsurprising thing about 3verfresh is that he has an immense album collection. “I have at least a million records, but I’d never sell them.” He believes that being a DJ is not just about creating a playlist of new songs, it is about playing songs that have a good beat and rhythm that make people want to dance and have a good time. ••
If someone was to look in your fridge at home, what would they be surprised to see? I’m lactose intolerant but there is always ice cream in my freezer. Such sweet pain!
What is your favourite food? A nice thick pepper crusted T-bone steak. Grilled rare, please. Describe your cooking style in just three words: Fun, energetic and full of flavour. What’s your favourite cooking utensil or kitchen tool? I can not do without the whisk. It has so many multiple uses, so handy. My nickname is “The Sauce Boss” so there is always a whisk nearby.
Next to your place, where are your favourite places to eat in London? Hands down, the Church Key. You never have a bad meal there. It’s simply amazing. Person you would most like to have a drink with? I would love to sit down for a pint with Jamie Oliver. His food is fresh, flavourful and you can tell it comes from the heart. •
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PEOPLE TO SEE
Tapping Into History Uncapping a London Beer Collector Article by
Kathy Rumleski
I
f every beer bottle has a story, Bill Mandich has a lot of tales to tell.
But after 40 years of collecting and close to 2,000 bottles and cans, some of those stories have faded from memory. As Mandich prepares to launch a website and re-organize his collection, the London man started reflecting on the circumstances of the consumed cans: “I wonder when this was?” So he started writing a few details about each one. “Now what I also do is I label each bottle as to who I drank it with and what perhaps the occasion was,” he says. “I’m glad I’m doing this.” Along with selling some of his collectables, which also include coasters and other beer-related items, and perhaps helping other people sell theirs, he hopes the website will be a place people
can come to share stories about the beer industry. “They say that to enjoy work you have to do something that you love. Well, I may have found it. Have fun with beer, sell what I have from my years of collecting, learn more about social networks.” Mandich has beer bottles from different countries, including Japan, Mexico and Germany. When working for Panasonic, he did business with the Japanese and they would bring him tiny beer cans, about 2.5-inches tall. Mandich started collecting beer bottles while attending Queen’s University in Kingston. It was also there that he tried to make his first batch, during an annual beer brewing contest. “You really can’t brew beer in a residence,” he laughs. His favourite label is Nude Beer and his best conversation piece is Billy Beer, named after Jimmy Carter’s brother. Mandich will soon be ready to exchange stories and knowledge with others via Grinandbeerit.ca, his website, online this March. •
Sweet Leaf Garrett r
Still Rockin’ Afte All These Years Article by
Stephanie Sargent
A
After playing together for 20 years the band Sweet Leaf Garrett finds it interesting to reminisce about the good old days and how they met. Shaun Sanders, the unofficial lead singer, sat down with Indulge Magazine before their regular Sunday night gig at Fitzrays to talk about the band. “We knew each other from just being in the circuit and around the business. Jeff’s rehearsal room was right next to mine.” One Sunday Jeff invited Sanders to play at the Brunswick and the band evolved from there. “Steve used to practice upstairs at the Brunswick and he joined us mostly for fun.” The name for the band came about in a similarly casual way Sanders says, referring to Jeopardy’s category ‘Before and After’. “Sweet Leaf is a Black Sabbath song and Leif Garrett was a 70’s heart-throb, hence the name of the band.” In 20 years the band has never had a rehearsal. “It’s just messing around and having fun. It’s a welcome release from being serious, playing cover songs you learned when you were 16,” Sanders says. The band plays cover songs from Led Zeppelin and Black Sabbath to the Rolling Stones and even Elvis.
Their experience with London crowds varies. “London is so diverse. There’s the student crowd and the adult crowd; some places work and some just don’t. If it’s a student crowd, they may not even know the songs we’re playing.” Sanders says that some of the best nights were playing at the Brunswick, where they played for 12 years,. “It was a hole, a dirty hole, but it was our hole.” One of the downsides to playing for so many years is that many of the places that they used to play at are no longer around. “We used to play at The Brass Door which was always a good time, it was the place to go whether you were playing or just hanging out.” Sanders says his favorite part of being a musician is the act of playing. “When things are going well during a set and you know that things are going well, it’s a great feeling.” His best experience over the years was “Sundays back at The Wick. Those nights were magical.” Each of the band members has a favorite drink. Guitarist and vocalist Jefferson (Jeffy B) Bialkowski likes 50 in a can, while Shaun Sanders prefers Cold Gin or one of Jay’s Grenade’s (Jay is a bartender at Fiztrays). The drummer Steve Crew drinks mostly Coffee or Bourbon while bass guitarist Jeff (Stan) Fountain says, “I drink water or beer, which is like water to me.” Sweet Leaf Garrett plays every Thursday night at Joe Kool’s and every Sunday at Fitzrays in addition to other weekend gigs around London and area. They also do the occasional wedding. “Surprisingly we get a lot of requests to play at weddings, mostly from couples that met at one of our gigs and that feel a special attachment to the memory.” • INDULGEmag.com | March 2013 13
Article by
Kathy Rumleski
Glatt Beers: Avalanche ESB Barley Wine Green Chilli Beer Double Roast Dark Espresso Ale Framboise Strong Ale Harvest Ale Kolsch Mulligan’s Ale Pale Ale Ruby Porter Oktoberfester Lager Wayback Lager
Glatt Brothers’ Brewing: Remembering London’s Craft Beer Pioneers
T
he Glatt Brothers Brewing Company was a family-run business tucked into the same city pocket as Angelo’s, and like the Italian bakery and cafe, provided a unique tasting experience that changed the culture. The business on Thompson Road is gone now, as is Angelo’s, but the memory is sustained because the brothers dared to be different. John and Paul Glatt opened their microbrewery in 1993 and right away started pushing the limits of beer boundaries. “They were the real style stretchers,” says Stephen Beaumont, a Toronto veteran
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beer writer and co-author of The World Atlas of Beer. “Ontario had always been, up until very recently, a very conservative brewing culture.” With their Green Chilli Beer, Double Roast Dark Espresso Ale and Harvest Ale, described as the first organic beer in Ontario, the Glatt brothers got attention and changed the way people thought about beer. They also produced barley wine before anyone else and fruit beer. “They were ahead of the curve,” Beaumont remembers. The brewery did have some problems with infections and consistency, he said, and those likely •
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would have been completely corrected if they had a longer run. Their impact would have been greater as well.
was so hot, it nearly burned my tongue off.”
“I think the potential was definitely there,” Beaumont says. The Glatts were up against the mighty Beer Stores but managed to get in a few LCBO outlets. As they persevered, their products were stocked in Michigan and farther afield in Ontario.
“Glatt Brothers is one of 64 brewing companies in Canada, but it doesn’t get nearly the recognition it deserves from Londoners,” Berton wrote.
Unfortunately fate intervened. Paul had some health problems, developed cancer and passed away. “It was a sad time,” their mother Joan Glatt recalls. “John tried to keep going, but he couldn’t manage without Paul.” Glatt Brothers Brewing Company closed in 1998. What Beaumont remembers is their extreme beer, including the Green Chilli brew, made with green habaneros and green cayenne peppers. It was first produced in 1996. “It was hot; it was spicy. The Glatt chilli beer definitely spoke to the heat of the chilli (peppers),” he says. “It’s one beer that makes an impact.” In a forum about weirdflavoured beer on the website OttawaFoodies.com, a contributor wrote of the beer: “It
In 1998, The London Free Press business editor, Paul Berton, offered up a piece declaring Glatt Brothers as the real hometown brewery, instead of Labatt’s.
“It’s good beer, but don’t take my word for it. That the LCBO stocks Glatt is a testament to its quality. Liquor board officials are notoriously picky about
{
They were ahead of the curve Beaumont remembered
}
what they allow through the doors - everything is tasted and scrutinized. Glatt is available at only five London LCBO outlets, but about 40 or 50 outlets elsewhere, mostly in the Toronto and Ottawa areas.” London beer bottle collector Bill Mandich has a 12-beer holiday pack from 1996, announcing “The 12 Beers of Christmas.” Some of the beers in the collection include Wayback Lager, Avalanche ESB and Mulligan’s Ale, along with the famous Green Chilli. Mandich has 11 of the bottles and the original box. “Somebody came up with the idea and it’s a lot of work to brew 12 different beers,” says Mandich. Besides their willingness to try something new, Beaumont also remembers Paul Glatt for his sense of humour. “Paul was very much a character. He contributed an insult to my vocabulary which I use from time to time still today. He was the first person I ever heard refer to someone as a ‘chucklehead’.” •• INDULGEmag.com | March 2013 15
Break-Out Success
Former Londoner & Fanshawe Student Escapes the Ordinary with His Unique Beers
G
etting a pint of beer on a hot September day was all Trent University student Claude Lefebvre was thinking about. He did not know this particular pint of beer would change his life. Now beer is his life. With his own craft beer sales agency and a beer company he coowns (Double Trouble), Lefebvre sometimes puts in 16-hour days. He has had success, including getting his own beer, Hops & Robbers, into 275 LCBO stores. The success, he says, has caught him off guard. “It’s the little engine that could. That’s what this brand has become.” So grab a beer and let’s go
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back to that sweltering day in 1998, where it all began. Lefebvre did not want to do anything other than downing a cold one and he certainly had no thought of going home to write a resume. But after server Andrea Plumley made him an offer he could not refuse - try a pint of beer and if he did not like it she would pay for it - he “hopped” down a path that led to Kawartha Lakes Brewery. Plumley served him a raspberry wheat beer at his patio table and despite wondering “who puts fruit in their beer?” Lefebvre, a former Londoner, surprisingly found himself loving it. “It was so good; I was determined to find out more,” he says. Soon Plumley, who became friends with Lefebvre, brought him every KLB beer - a Cream Ale, a Nut Brown Ale and a Pale Ale. “After pint number four with liquid courage... I told my (friends) that I’m going to go work for this
brewery. I went home and typed out my resume.” The next day he borrowed a bike and pedalled 17 kilometres to KLB. The brewery owner/operator Jon Conquer was there and told Lefebvre he had nothing available. “I said, ‘Look, I had your beer. I need to be part of this. I don’t care if I have to sweep the floors or take out the garbage.’” After promising (or threatening) to call Conquer every day until he had a position, a spot opened up on the bottling line and Lefebvre was in. Faster than an Irishman downs a Guinness, Lefebvre became the company’s first sales rep. Article by
Kathy Rumleski
He had a bit of a daunting territory to cover - only Ontario. “I had about 110,000 kilometres a year,” the engaging Lefebvre says, with a laugh.
me say it one more time, tiny breweries. What they sold in their first month, at retail, is probably the equivalent of what you would find at a keg party one weekend.” He was calling on 144 liquor stores every two weeks and racking up the miles, but Lefebvre’s first paycheque was only $116.38. Now North American Craft, with “A Thirst for Independence” as a motto, represents 22 independent breweries, including in California and Minneapolis. One of his independents, Dead Frog Brewery in B.C., brews Hops & Robbers for Lefebvre and his partner Nathan Dunsmoor. It is also brewed in Toronto at Black Oak. Lefebvre calls the Dunsmoor partnership and the push to get their own beer, the Laverne and Shirley act. ••
°
He then made his way to Unibroue as a rep and when Unibroue was bought out by Sleeman Breweries, he went along for the ride. “That’s where I really learned how to sell beer and always promised myself that I’d only work for Canadian companies and independent companies.” When Sleeman went foreign, Lefebvre was on the road again to Mill Street Brewery. With his eidetic memory, Lefebvre recalls the precise minute he decided to leave the rat race (or at least leave for one of his own making). It was Jan. 25, at 6:38 p.m. “I felt beat up.” His wife Jill, herself worn down by a colicky fourmonth-old baby, knew what he was going to do. “She looked me in the eye and said, ‘You’re opening up your craft beer agency.’” And so he did. “We risked it all,” he admits. “I had access to five breweries - tiny, tiny, tiny, let INDULGEmag.com | March 2013 17
They brought on award-winning Paul Dickey, a certified judge, as brewer. “We really lucked out.” They have been encouraged by their early success. You can find Hops & Robbers in most LCBO stores (priced at $2.75 for a tall boy) in London as well as on tap at Morrissey House. You will not find it in beer stores but Lefebvre says he stays neutral on The Beer Store versus LCBO issue. He’s hoping consumer swill give Double Trouble and their beer - soon they’ll launch Prison Break Pilsner - a taste. He calls H&R the “gateway IPA” that will pull the mainstream market into craft beer. “So far, what we’re hearing on the street is people are blown away with how many people we’ve actually brought over from mainstream domestic beer into the Hops & Robbers franchise.” And now all he needs are servers like Plumley.
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•••
Enhance your reading experience with one of our Tasty Tours! We host wine tastings and guided winery tours.
WINE TASTING Thursday, March 28 Woodford Room at the Gibson Gallery 3:00 pm - 5:00 pm (trade) 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm
6 wines Only $25 p.p.
Please email michelle@ indulgemag.com for event location and to reserve your tickets. Visit indulgemag.com for upcoming events! 18 INDULGEmag.com | March 2013
New Black Lager Brewery Making Big Splash in the Land of Wine
D
uring a rock climbing trip on the west coast of Canada 15 years ago, Matt Swan and his best friend turned business partner Chris Pontsioen never anticipated that they would become part of the Niagara craft beer landscape. Within weeks of opening their brewery last June, the creators of Silversmith Brewery saw sales of their black lager skyrocket both in store and on rotational taps across Southern Ontario. “I haven’t had a day off in months,” says Swan. “People are really excited that a brewery has appeared on the wine landscape of Niagara.” Locating in an old church, Swan says they made sure to keep the building’s former integrity during the renovations. Their bar, built from the remnants of an older one, helps create that relaxed “old school atmosphere” unique to craft brew sales. With its complex roasted aroma, hint of smokiness and light body, Silversmith’s black lager is a welcome departure from the heaviness that people usually associate with dark beer.
Article by Brittany Dakins
“Our style of beer is one that no one else is doing,” says Laura Campeau, Silversmith’s London sales rep, “so people are being more open minded about what beer can mean.” The Bungalow Restaurant, located at Cheapside and Waterloo, has been eager to support sales of Silversmith’s black lager. “I don’t think we’ve ever put a beer on tap and had this great of a response so quickly,” says restaurant owner Scot Crawford. Candice Sheriff, a server at Milo’s Craft Beer Emporium, shares the same sentiments, commenting that since Silversmith Brewery made an appearance at the London Food and Wine show in January, customers have been hurrying through their door asking for another taste. “Convincing people to try our beer was a challenge because they see a dark beer and they’re intimidated,” says Swan, noting that large-scale breweries have skewed traditional lager flavour. “But, once they muster up the courage to try it, they’re always impressed.” •
SILVERSMITH BREWING
is hosting and presenting “A Girl’s Guided Tour to Beer” at the upcoming Beer & BBQ Festival taking place June 21 to June 22. Tickets are available now by visiting www.westernfairdistrict.com.
‘NUFF SAID. JUNE 21–22, 2013
FRI. 4PM–10:30PM | SAT. 11AM–10:30PM TED READER
GODFATHER OF THE GRILL with live cooking demos fired straight from the grill!
OUTDOOR SPORTS
Participate in popular summer backyard games like volleyball and disc-toss.
WesternFairDistrict @WesternFair
#LDNBEERBBQ
CRAFT BEER
Cool off with the best our region has to offer.
GlutenFree Beer We Sample Four Brands For You
Article by
Jared MacAdam The first international gluten-free beer festival was held in February 2006 in Chesterfield, United Kingdom, organized in part by the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA)
B
eer. The fabled, goldencoloured liquid that is always held to be the lifeblood of Canadians everywhere (at least as far as pop culture goes). But for those who are Celiac or gluten-intolerant, beer, being made of grains, tends to be a bane more than a boon. But gluten-fearing individuals need fear no more for salvation has come. Like other health food products, the brewing industry is taking notes and offering glutenfree beer safe for all to drink. But what is Celiac? Celiac is a disorder that arises from an inability to properly digest gluten – a protein found in barley, rye and wheat – in the small intestine, with nasty side effects like stomach cramps, pain, and other unpleasant things. Gluten is found in a wide variety of
20 INDULGEmag.com | March 2013
products, most obvious being bread, but also can be found in things like sauces, chips, and, for the point of discussion here, beer. Beer utilizes many of grains in the brewing process that Celiacs cannot digest. This has not stopped innovative brewers from looking to other possibilities. Sorghum is a main substitute in most gluten-free beers, as are rice and buckwheat, all fermentable enough to be classified as beer. All are certifiably gluten-free, meaning they are safe for consumption by Celiacs. How ‘beery’ is Gluten-free beer? And how accessible are these beers in London? Indulge Magazine sampled four different Gluten-free beers, all available in London at your local LCBO. The first beer is Nickel Brook’s
•°
Gluten-Free beer, available in 473 ml cans, and brewed in Niagara, Ontario. This light pale colour beer is modeled after India Pale Ales, with a stronger, bitter flavour to it and with the highest alcohol content of our samples at 5.8%. The decent head fades quickly with slight hints of fruity citrus and pear flavours. It is quite comparable to actual beer. Bards Gold beer, brewed out of New York, USA, is available in six-packs. A much lighter beer, Bards boasts a caramel colour with a pleasant aroma but basically no foam. A mild flavour follows, with an almost haunting cider-like nuance, very drinkable with a light 4.7% alcohol content. With very little malt or hop flavours though, this brand is not quite as close to drinking a beer, but rather being closer to drinking a cider.
golden beer with 5.7% percent alcohol content, the second most potent on the list. It is a sweeter beer, not as intense and without any of the bitter flavours of hops but still with a slight malt taste. A longer, smoother finish awaits, with hints of pear cider and honey. An overall good beer that balances nice sweetness and characteristic beer flavours. While the current selection of gluten free beer is, to say the least, small in comparison to normal varieties, there are a few decent-tasting alternatives. Not necessarily like regular beer, they offer a unique flavour that seems to walk the line between a cider and a beer, which can be pleasant or not, depending on your preference.
It is encouraging that there are more gluten-free alternatives Another Canadian beer, this that are getting better at one out of Saint-Alexis des mimicking Celiac-unfriendly Monts, Quebec, La Messagere products. The typical Canadian by Nouvelle France breweries “beverage of choice” is not is also available in a six pack. A something you have to give up very soft blonde, with practically if you are a diagnosed Celiac. no head at all and not much of a You will be limited to a few dominant flavour or hoppy/malt options, but those options are Business Card_Layout 1 12/14/12 10:18 AM flavour, is has a creamy, lingering expanding quickly. •• finish with a slight hint of fruit. Its slightly sweet and honey like taste makes it an overall very easy, drinkable beer, not nearly as hoppy as the Nickel Brook but more beer-like than the Bards.
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The final beer is New Grist, out of Wisconsin, and also came in a six pack. Middleof-the-road head and carbonation, it is a lighter INDULGEmag.com | March 2013 21
Beers to Try What We Are Drinking
Lake of Bays Spark House Red Ale
(Molson Coors) Molson Stock Ale
On tap at Trichilo’s Ristorante, this reddish-brown coloured ale has good malt aromas of caramel, toffee and roasted grains. It has a subtle nutty and smoky flavour that makes it easyto-drink. Light on bitterness, its creamy finish is quite refreshing.
Listed as an American Pale Ale, this classic beer can still be found at select locations such as Jack’s on Richmond. Golden in colour with high carbination and a foamy head, its slightly sweet flavour, hint of hops and mild body make it an easy sipper.
Baysville, ON (5.0%, $5.75/20 oz.)
While Ireland is the primary market for Kilkenny, Australia and Canada are its two largest importers
Ontario (5.0%, $3.75/12 oz.)
Anheuser-Busch Shock Kilkenny Irish Top Belgian White Cream Ale Missouri (5.2%, $6.75/20 oz.)
Ireland (4.3%, $6.60/20 oz.)
This Belgian-styled wheat ale (witbier) is light in flavour with hints of cirtus and corriander. Its mild aromas are dominated by the accompanying orange slice. Finish is creamy and lingering yet still clean to the taste. Available on tap at Winks Eatery.
From the same makers as Guinness, this nitrogenated cream ale is quite light-bodied, much more so than in previous years, leading to the suspicion that the recipe has changed. Still very tasty however. Try it on tap at the Black Pearl Pub.
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Wines to Try What We Are Drinking
Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2012
New Zealand (12.5%, $41.00/bottle) Arriving from the Marlborough area of the country, this crisp light aperitif wine is zesty with
flavours of gooseberry and tropical fruit. Its bouquet is quite lively. Available at Dragonfly Bistro on Richmond, it pairs well with scallops or shellfish, such as their prawns in garlic, butter and white wine dish.
Zantho Muskat Ottonel 2011
Tawse échos Riesling 2010
A little known gem, has a strong fruit nose (“smells most like a grape”) with a riesling-like perfume. Try it at the Bungalow to experience its dry, light and less acidic flavour. Low in residual sugar, it has a slightly peppery and mineral finish.
Available by glass or bottle at Trichilo’s Ristorante, this wine from a hot summer is semi-sweet with low-acidity but with nice aromas that include grapefruit and peach. Its intense flavour of honey and minerals fades to shorter finish of citrus peel.
Austria (12.0%, $7.99/gls, $31.99/bot)
Prawns are different to shrimp in that they are larger in size, have branching gills and have larger legs with claws on three pairs
Vineland, ON (10.0%, $9.00/gls, $37.00/bot)
INDULGEmag.com | March 2013 23
PLACES TO GO
When We’re Hungry
Objective Restaurant Reviews by
A. Paul Mitchell
Indulge Magazine objectively reviews London-area restaurants with a critical eye to location, decor, service and quality of food. Visits are done anonymously and meals are paid-in-full to ensure our scores are fair, objective and unbiased.
Huge Portions, Southern Flavour
Resurrected from the former Cuzin’ Orville’s, the rebranded barbeque shack changes little visually and once again soars with an abundance of Southern smoke and succulent flavours. Owner Ziad Mandel, with previous restaurant success from building and selling Cousin Vinny’s pizzeria, has kept the successful elements yet has added more salads, lighter fare and items for children. The revamped menu appeals to families and women but on my lunch visit, all the guests were squarely masculine with enormous appetites.
Portions are indeed huge. For decent prices the beef ribs boast a delicious smoky flavor but it is the meaty, flavourful pork ribs that steal the show. A half-rack baby backs ($16) are served atop a never-ending mountain of fries with fluffy (and hint of dill) creamy coleslaw. Despite the portion size, I order an unnecessary side of gooey mac and cheese since I cannot resist and immediately fall in love. The fun-loving décor and attitude remain at Smok’in Joes with improved flavor and food consistency (home delivery too!) to rank the small place as one of the city’s best barbeque joints. • SMOK’IN JOE’S BBQ 1920 Dundas Street (at Clarke) 226-663-6553 www.smokinjoesbbq.ca Rating: HHHH (4.0) | Pricing: $$ Price range (mains): $9 - $22 Reservations: No | Licensed: Yes
TOP DISH Gusto Wine Bar 175 Wortley Road www.gustolondon.ca Mac n’ Cheese Lollipops (4), deep-fried pankocrusted 3-cheese truffled cubes, with spicy ketchup, $14 Suggested Pairing: Tin Roof Chardonnay, $8
Waldo’s On King 130 King Street (in the Covent Market) 519-433-6161 | www.waldos.on.ca Rating: HHHH (4.0) | Pricing: $$$
The Only On King 172 King Street (at Richmond) 519-936-2064 | www.theonlyonking.ca Rating: HHHHH (5.0) | Pricing: $$$$
Proximity to the market provides the Waldo’s menu with exciting seasonal freshness. Its funky, artistic atmosphere and bistro menu offer something for everyone. Handmade gnocchi ($14) in a fresh four-cheese cream sauce is satisfying surprisingly light. Friendly service complements an unpretentious meal.
Retains its position as London’s top restaurant with constantly updated menus and ultra-local ingredients. Homemade components exemplify the care in creating meals of hand-cut striploin ($30) and pork loin. High prices well-worth the incredibly layered flavours and rich sauces that create an unparalleled dining experience.
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The Luck of the Irish: Food for St. Patty’s
F
or the Irish and non-Irish alike St. Patty’s Day is a holiday to indulge in traditional Gaelic fare, perhaps a rich pint and embark on a bit of foolish frivolity. What comes to mind when thinking of time-honored Irish gaiety? Most certainly there is green beer, a pint poured with patience and skill, maybe a few shamrocks here and there. And let us not forget a menu full of rich, hearty comfort foods served best in a darkened Irish pub. Of course, we are talking about such Irish staples as bangers and mash, potato soup, Irish stew, corn beef and cabbage, and steak and kidney pie to name a few. Entrees that are served year round in pubs are never as treasured and devoured as they are on St. Patrick’s Day.
168 Sushi Asian Buffet 660 Oxford Street West (at Wonderland) 519-657-0303 | www.168sushibuffet.com Rating: HHH½ (3.5) | Pricing: $$ Referring to the number of items on the menu, small plates of Japanese, Thai, Chinese and Korean dishes can all be ordered by the piece. Tablets make order easier than could be otherwise. Among service chaos, food is tasty and fun in a clean modern ambiance. A good value as a new lunch buffet ($13.95 p.p.) option.
Article by
Jaime Burnham Molly Bloom’s Irish Pub in London has a menu that boasts a selection of both traditional and nontraditional Irish fare; a Gaelic steak, Finnegan’s bowl of soup of the day and beer battered fish ‘n chips. Their bangers and mash are made with Ontario farmer’s pork sausages served with garlic mashed potatoes and topped with Guinness and onion gravy. They also offer a traditional Irish stew slow cooked with tender beef and veggies in a thick and creamy stout broth. Jacqui Reeves, an owner of Molly Bloom’s says, “Sunday March 17, is one of the most important dates on everyone’s calendar. The green beer starts flowing bright and early. Breakfast in line for our first 100 early birds, these people are dedicated.” Molly Bloom’s has a full day of events planned and Jacqui says, “Depending on the weather, hopefully we will be able to offer Londoners another great patio day in March like last year.” Over at the Waltzing Weasel Pub, another Irish haunt in London, their popular menu item is the steak and Guinness pie. The steak, mushrooms and onions are braised in ‘the world’s most famous stout’ and then completed with a crispy golden pastry. They also offer bangers and mashed, and steak and kidney pie year round. “We will be offering a couple of specials, Irish stew and corned beef and cabbage for St. Patrick’s Day,” says owner Mike McCoubrey, “March 17th is our busiest day of the year.” For those who will be venturing out this St. Patrick’s to partake in the festivities, certainly most every bar and pub in the city will be offering Irish specialties and will be up to the usual shenanigans, but remember this old Irish proverb: “Laughter is brightest where the food and drink is best.” • INDULGEmag.com | March 2013 25
Cask Beer PLACES TO GO
When We’re Thirsty
(Left to Right) Milos Kral and Adil Ahmad, experimental brewer with Flying Monkeys, display their firkin
Much Ado About Cask-Conditioned Ale Coming to a London Pub Near You
Article by
Jaime Burnham
Cask conditioned beers are only available in Canada in two sizes, either 40.9 litre ‘firkins’, or 20 litre ‘pins’ (two other sizes exist in the UK)
I
Cask ales, the traditional English style of beer, has emerged in Southern Ontario beer market in recent years and its original taste and freshness has been gaining in popularity with the Canadian connoisseur.
runs the largest cask ale festival (Cask Days) in North America and has seen first-hand the rise in the cask ale trend. He and his brother Julian are now producing their own cask beers under the House Ale brand.
A few short years ago there were only a handful of breweries that made cask ale, or had the equipment to even try for that matter. Today, there are over 20 breweries including the Wellington Brewery in Guelph, Cameron’s Brewing Co. in Oakville, and several brewers like Mill Street and Great Lakes Brewery in the Toronto area.
“House Ales has begun producing at a larger scale via Black Oak Brewery [Etobicoke]. We will most likely send some of our brands to Milos’ [Beer Emporium] in London,” Julian Morana says.
Ralph Morana of Bar Volo in Toronto is a staunch advocate of cask beers. “At my bar we have six hand pumps,” he says. Morana, who studied brewing in England, 26 INDULGEmag.com | March 2013
Owner of Milo’s Beer Emporium, Milos Kral, says his cask is very popular with patrons. Proof of the fact is that they were installing a second hand-pump on the day of the interview. “It is growing. More and more people are discovering the wonderful world of cask beer.” •
°
The cask trend is definitely on the rise but what makes it difficult for pub owners to offer regularly is the ale’s minute shelf life, making it not the most economical for pub owners. The life of a tapped cask is about three to four days depending on hops levels (IBU) and alcohol percentage (ABV). Some places will use a CO2 aspiration system so they can get at least double the life, but even then it only lasts about six days. Because hops and alcohol are preservatives, the higher the content of each the longer a cask will last.
The King Edward Pub in Ilderton
with Milo’s, are the only establishments to carry cask ales on a regular basis in the London area. “I installed our first cask system in 2006, a year after we opened. The reception was slow at first but we quickly built a loyal customer base,” Hunter says. “At the time our main supplier, Wellington [Brewery], was considering dropping real-ale as, and I quote, ‘it represents 1% of our business and 95% of our problems.’” The problem in making cask beer is that it is not easy to do and as Hunter says, “If you don’t know how to take care of it there can be some real issues.” After its primary fermentation, the beer is put in a cask with yeast, making it ‘still live’ beer. It is then in the cask that the key secondary fermentation takes place. The beer is constantly fed by fresh CO2 as a by-product of the fermentation, which keeps the beer in ‘condition’. At this point keeping the cask at the ideal temperature allows fermentation to continue. And it does not end there; unlike regular draught beer, which is forced up from the cellar by CO2, real ale has to be drawn up by a hand-pump.
An untapped cask could last two to three months, again depending on IBU and ABV. That compares to a local craft keg which should last six months refrigerated or a pasteurized import keg which can even last a year. Rich Hunter, owner of the King Edward pub in Ilderton, is passionate about his beer and in particular his cask ale. His, along
“They normally have a quarter pint cylinder, so about four pulls to fill a 20 ounce glass. And it’s hard work!” says Hunter. He adds, “The pour is critical to the taste and appearance but a handpump gives great control, allowing us to pour a great pint, which leaves wonderful ‘lacing’ in the glass.” [To ensure freshness from beer that has sat in the line overnight, Kral says the first pint of the day should always goes down the drain.] Between the time and energy put into it and the short shelf life, it is no surprise that few establishments in London carry casks. Hopefully beer lovers will start seeing more cask selections at their favourite watering hole. •• INDULGEmag.com | March 2013 27
PLACES TO GO
When We’re Thirsty
Upcoming Promotions Around London Everyone deserves to get out of the house and have a little fun with friends. This month we would like to feature a few events, other than St. Patrick’s Day, that are worth checking out to try something new.
Do not forget to register for the Indulge Magazine Wine Tasting on March 28 by reserving your $25 tickets with michelle@ indulgemag.com
Wine Tasting Comes To The Grand
What happens when Canadians get together? Find out at Western University’s Spoke Pub on the 7th, 14th, 20th, 27th of March. Aside from sampling, electronic contest ballots are being handed out for a chance to win a trip to Dublin, Ireland. www.usc.uwo.ca/spoke
7PM - 10PM AT THE GRAND THEATRE
TUESDAY, APRIL 9, 2013 LIVE ENTERTAINMENT FABULOUS SILENT AUCTION AND FOOD PAIRINGS
TICKETS: $50 INCLUDES THREE TASTINGS AND APPETIZERS 519.672.8800 OR GRANDTHEATRE.COM
The Grand Theatre presents a cheeky wine tasting with a slight nod to popular literature. Reserve your tickets online or at the box office for their Fifty Shades of Grape event on April 9. Fireball, the first flavoured whisky in Canada, is running a #FireballFriday promotion every week at Jim Bob Ray’s. Post your photo enjoying a shot on Facebook or Twitter (@FireballWhisky) and look for other upcoming on-site promos. www.fireballwhisky.com www.jimbobrays.com 28 INDULGEmag.com | March 2013
Your $50 ticket gains you admittance to the event, three tastings from wines from around the world, appetizers, live music, as well as participation in The Grand’s first ever Bag Auction! www.grandtheatre.com
NOW for FREE
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LAST CALL Article by Milos Kral
Perspective from a Beer Expert
M
ore and more people are discovering that not all the beer is made equal. For decades, we were made to believe that beer is this bland, fizzy, yellow water.
Photo by
A. Paul Mitchell
Milos Kral is the owner of Milos’ Beer Emporium at 420 Talbot Street downtown Visit them online at pubmilos.com
Now, we have a chance to try so many different kinds of beer, it is almost overwhelming. There are dozens of breweries with beers worth sampling. I would like you to get to know all of them. Since there are dozens of breweries in Ontario (new ones opening all the time), we will introduce few at a time. Following are the first three in our quest to explore a wonderful world of craft beer in Ontario: Forked River Brewing – London’s first modern-day local craft brewery (actually, second, refer to our article on the Glatt Brothers in this edition). Based on various samples we had a chance to taste over last few months, we are going to be able to satisfy our craving for well-made local beer. I cannot wait to try easy-drinking Capital Blonde Ale and Riptide Rye Pale Ale. Flying Monkeys Craft Brewery from Barrie – One of the leaders in craft beer movement. Many of their beers are readily available in LCBO. SmashBomb Atomic
30 INDULGEmag.com | March 2013
IPA – The brewery that broke down conservative walls and heralded long-overdue arrival of highly sought-after West Coast style IPA in Ontario. Antigravity Light Ale might be a good choice if you plan on venturing into craft beer world in baby steps. If you are after more challenging taste profiles, look for their seasonal releases like BNL Imperial Chocolate Stout or their 8th Anniversary Ale - Matador Imperial India Pale Ale aged on Spanish cedar. Great Lakes Brewery from Toronto – They have risen to the top of the Ontario craft beer scene thanks to a never-ending stream of great seasonal and experimental beers. All of their 25th Anniversary beers are worth trying if you are lucky enough to find them. Crazy Canuck Ale, 666 Devil’s Pale Ale are just two of GLB core beers available from LCBO. Remember, beer is a democratic beverage. New converts are always welcomed. Check out a selection in your favourite bar and if you’re not sure where to start or don’t understand some of the beer lingo, just ask a beer drinker sitting next to you or your bar-keep. •
INDULGEmag.com | February 2013 31
‘NUFF SAID. JUNE 21–22, 2013
FRI. 4PM–10:30PM | SAT. 11AM–10:30PM THE BEST IN BBQ
Try the best BBQ in London. From sauces to rubs to grills and everything in between.
OUTDOOR SPORTS
Participate in popular summer backyard games like volleyball and disc-toss.
WesternFairDistrict @WesternFair
#LDNBEERBBQ
CRAFT BEER
Cool off with the best our region has to offer.