MANLY MEMORABLE

Explore this historic beachside town a stone’s throw away from Sydney that still retains its charm and originality

BY PETRA O’NEILL

From Circular Quay, a 30 minute ferry ride will bring you to Manly. It’s a great way to sightsee Sydney Harbour, as you passby the Opera House, Harbour Bridge, pockets of remnant bushland and Sydney’s finest real estate. ‘7 miles from Sydney and a million miles from care’ was the slogan used to describe it in the 1940s. Manly still retains that characteristic Australian beachside charm of coloured beach umbrellas, sandcastles and surfing the waves.

Manly was named by Captain Arthur Phillip in 1788 after he witnessed the ‘manly’behaviour of a group of local aboriginals, despite himbeing wounded with a spear in a misunderstanding. By the 1880s it had become a seaside resort rivalling Bondi. Leaving the ferry and wharf behind, walk the length of The Corso, a pedestrian mall lined with cafes and everything you’ll need for the beach, until you reach a stunning long expanse of coastline perfectly suited for swimming and surfing. The stretch of sand extends from Shelly Beach to Queenscliff with a promenade shaded by massive Norfolk Island Pines. It was here that surfing began in Australia in 1912, and became popular following a visit by world swimming champion Duke Paoa Kahanamoku in 1914. Now Manly-Freshwater is recognised as one of the world’s most significant surfing locations, with outstanding surf breaks.

While the ocean beaches are the main drawcard, you can also go on several walks. Take the 10 kilometre, 4.5 hour Manly Scenic Walkway from Spit Bridge to Manly to experience one of Australia’s best walks, with stunning harbour scenery across rugged headlands, sweeping beaches, lagoons, bays and bushland, from rainforest to open eucalypt and view Aboriginal rock engravings made hundreds of years ago. While human encroachment has caused the disappearance of larger native animals, possums, bandicoots and reptiles may be seen as well as birds including honeyeaters, parrots, kingfishers, kookaburras and cockatoos. The final two kilometres is gently graded winding around the harbour foreshoresuburbs of Fairlight and Manly Cove with safe beaches well suited to refresh weary walkers. I have always welcomed arriving at this point, since the walk requires considerable stamina.

You can also walkfrom Manly Beach, past Cabbage Tree Bay to North Head (9.5 kms - 4 hours) within Sydney Harbour National Park for spectacular views of the city skyline. North Head was used to quarantine passengers with a suspected contagious disease on ships arriving in Australia from 1828 until 1984. The School of Artillery where army gunners lived and trained and North Fort are also to be found here.

A hidden gem, Cabbage Tree Bay, is one of Sydney’s best snorkelling spots with a diversity of marine life including gropers, cuttlefish and octopus. It is tucked away behind a headland that acts as a windshield with calm waters and clear visibility.

Or you can do something altogether different including learning how to surf, hiring a bike or kayaking past headlands and beaches to the Quarantine Station. My daughter Lauren and I joined forces and paddled hard in a twin kayak dodging ferries against moderate headwinds to Manly Cove before changing directionfor the Quarantine Station for a gourmet picnic lunch that our guide Michael whipped up in no time. With Lauren describing the experience as awesome, I knew I’d made the right choice for a great day out.

The stretch of sand extends from Shelly Beach to Queenscliff with a promenade shaded by massive Norfolk Island Pines. It was here that surfing began in Australia in 1912

MANLY A DAY AT T h E BEAch

Fu R th ER in FORMAti O n:

The iconic Manly ferry is the best way to get to Manly with frequent departures from Jetty 3, Circular Quay. 131500/131500.com.au and manlyguide.com is useful for information on the many attractions to be found here or visit the Manly VisitorInformation Centre on arrival, stocked full of free maps and brochures.

If you want to surf, Manly Surf School offers classes. (02)99776977/manlysurfschool.com

Life’s an Adventure provides kayaking tours or for the super athletes among you, a kayak, hike and bike ride. (02) 9913 8939/lifesanadventure.com.au

Sydney Coast Walks offer informative guided walking tours to North Head and the Spit with overnight options. (02) 8521 7423/sydneycoastwalks.com.au

Locals shop at funky fashion boutiques found on Wentworth Street, Darley, Sydney and Pittwater Roads.

Only swim at patrolled beaches between the flags. Wear a hat, apply sunscreen and bring a water bottle that you can refill with fresh water at dispensers along the beach. Manly has no shortage of restaurants and cafes, many along The Corso, with fish and chips featuring prominently on most menus.

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