Bundeena and the Royal National Park

aboriginal rock carvings, with depictions of killer whales, stingrays and wallabies, then followed the coastline and headed back through scrubland.

Rosamund, a very fit outdoorsy type enjoyed it so much, she was determined to do the two day coastal walk to Otford. “Five star camping!” is how Bill who works for the National Parks and Wildlife Service described it. “They even cook you gourmet meals,” he added somewhat disparagingly, which to me, only added to the appeal of the overnight option.

The following week I got on the train to Loftus from where you can catch the historic tram into the park. Young boy scouts were clearly enjoying the ride, their squeals of delight proving too much for the older travellers on board. From here I walked along the Honeymoon track down to the historic village of Audley, where children splashed about as they paddled towards Kangaroo Creek, with rowboats available for hire from the historic boatshed. I went bushwalking further on the Robertson’s Roundabout track.

A rustling sound led me to an echidna, who upon sighting me, rolled up into a ball, its spikes providing a natural defence. Reaching a high escarpment, I viewed the Hacking River far down below.

Once a month, the community of artists living in Bundeena and Maianbar open their studios to visitors. I walked from Bundeena across the camping ground at

Bonnie Vale, past tents and heritage holiday shacks, along a long beach with fishermen catching brim and whiting, and waded across a creek, perhaps not the wisest way, but a short cut to Maianbar. Here I visited several studios filled with ceramics, oil paintings and exquisite decorative glass and jewellery. Unable to decide on the prettiest brooch, I will have to return again soon.

We viewed ancient Dharawal aboriginal rock carvings, with depictions of killer whales, stingrays and wallabies, then followed the coastline and headed back through scrubland

Travel noTebook

Bu N d EENA AN d R OYAL N ATIONAL PARK

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NG the R e

If travelling by train, head for Cronulla for the ferry to Bundeena. Alternatively, catch the Waterfall service alighting at Loftus from where you can catch the tram, a delightful 2km journey run by enthusiastic volunteers. You can then take the easy wheelchair accessible Bungoona Path loop walk, or walk down to Audley. City Rail www.131500.com.au Tel: 131-500. If travelling by car, you’ll be able to access much of the park, including three of the most beautiful beaches in Australia – Garie, Burning Palms and Wattamolla. From Sydney, Audley is 30 kms south on the Princes Hwy. There are few drives more scenic than the route from Audley to Stanwell Tops.

iN side R ’s ti P

For bushwalking, wear sturdy footwear, bring insect repellent, water and food. The signage is two sided. View both, to get your bearings. The Art Trail is held on the first Sunday of each month, providing an opportunity to meet artists in their studios. www.arttrail.com.au The easiest way to discover the park is the 3 hour scenic river cruise. www.cronullaferries.com.au / 9523-2990.

Whe R e tO stAY

Accommodation at Bundeena and Maianbar include B&B’s and holiday rental cottages. Try Ray White Bundeena www.raywhitebundeena.com.au / 9527-7733, Century 21 Bundeena www.century21.com.au / 9523-8800 or Stayz www.stayz.com.au. You can camp within the park at Bonnie Vale or North Era with bookings through the NPWS. The YHA at Cronulla provides budget accommodation. www.yha.com.au / 9527-7772

Whe R e tO e At fu R the R i N f OR mAti ON

While Audley has a restaurant offering standard fare, I’d recommend bringing a picnic or packed lunch. Bundeena has a few cafes including the Passionfruit Café.

Drop by the Royal National Park Visitor Centre at Audley www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au / 9542-0648. Royal Coast Walks www.royalcoastwalks.com.au

/ 8521-7423 offers several bushwalks and kayaking trips including a 30km two day walk camping overnight at Wattamolla.One day and two day walks following the coastline are also offered by Life’s an Adventure www.lifesanadventure.com.au / 9913-8939. The coastal track is regarded as one of Australia’s best hiking experiences. With all meals, a knowledgeable guide and tent set up for arrival, it represents great value.Sydney Tramway Museum at Loftus operates a tram to the Royal National Park on Wednesdays and Sundays www.sydneytramwaymuseum.com.au / 9542-3646.