Berlinbreak

The city that was Hitler’s playground and Stalin’s dreamland has changed for the better

efficient network of S-Bahn and U-Bahn, makes me wonder how Berlin achieved such a massive transformation with such a short period of time.

Iwill defeat them here in Berlin or face my downfall,” said Adolf Hitler in April 1945 from the underground bunker when Soviet tanks were rapidly advancing towards the Third Reich capital city, already reduced to rubbles from constant Allied Forces bombings. We all know what finally resulted, to make the pages of history.

Berlin today

After 67 years, standing at the spot just above the bunker, I look around and see an avant-garde metropolis, not much dissimilar in character from any other 21st century European settlement. An attractive cityscape painted with wide boulevards and avenues, sprawled with parks and gardens, and filled with everything that today’s travellers look for – from shopping malls, art galleries and theatres to luxury hotels, restaurants, and cafes all efficiently connected by an

Its touristy attractions are countless, ranging from museums and palaces, to historical monuments. You can’t visit all of them in one go, but following guide book recommendations for tourists, I surf along Charlottenburg Palace, Berliner Dom and the Pergamon Museum; wander around stylish and fashionable Kurfurstendamm; shop at KaDeWe, the largest department store in Europe; dine in style at Hotel Adlon, frequented by celebrities from Charlie Chaplin to Michael Jackson; sip cocktails at the roof top bar of Hotel de Rome from where the view of the architectural silhouette at sunset is breathtaking; eat curry wurst, a spicy sausage served with bread rolls from a wayside stall; drink plenty of Pilsner beer; and all this before launching into understanding Berlin as it was before and after World War II.

Turbulent past

Considered as one of Europe’s younger cites, written reference into prominence much later in the 17th century under the Prussian Emperors, and continued till World War I in 1914. Since then the city passed through several turbulent incarnations, most significant being the Nazi and Communist periods, spearheaded by Adolf Hitler and Joseph Stalin, two names history will never forget.

Austrian-born Hitler wanted to become a painter, but after being twice refused admission by the Academy of Fine Arts in Vienna, he moved to neighbouring Germany. He worked his way up to become the crumbling nation’s Chancellor in 1933 and led the country into a monstrous war in 1939, that ultimately triggered his downfall in1945. He committed suicide prior to the Soviets taking control of the city. Post-war the city was divided into two based on political alliance. Berliners were thrown out of the frying pan into the fire. A heavily guarded wall was built to split a race with Stalin’s Communist Party taking charge of the eastern side.

History’s silent witness

You can feel the beats of this tumultuous history by visiting the impressive Brandenburg Gate, an getaway was built in the 18th century as a symbol of peace. Over the years it has withstood sun, rain and bombing; faced torture when Napoleon, after conquering the city, carried away to Paris the statue of a Greek goddess on a chariot crowning its top; watched Hitler celebrating the birth of his Third Reich in 1933, and triumphant Soviets raising the red flag twelve years later. After its division, Berlin felt like it was stranded in a death strip, as people on either side heard the cries of anguish from across the border. It also paid attention to dignitaries like John Kennedy and Ronald Reagan demanding unification, and burst into jubilation in 1989 when it ultimately did happen.

Standing in front of the wall and reminiscing about those significant episodes, I feel this silent monument tells us not to forget the shameful atrocities of the past, on which stand today’s glitzy Berlin. This feeling intensifies when I walk through a concentration camp just outside Berlin and see the new Holocaust Memorial, even whilst I stumble on the remains of the Berlin Wall, or wander along the corridors of

Nazi fascism

“You’ll understand the horrors of Nazism when you visit a concentration camp,” said Carlos, my German friend. A few of his ancestors died at the fatal camps used by Nazi authorities to remove enemies of the Reich and their cluster of ‘undesirables’ that ranged from Jews and Communists to homosexuals, gypsies and the mentally ill. It is claimed that between 1933 and 1945, over 3.5 million Germans spent time in concentration camps, and around 77,000 were executed. In addition, several millions were exterminated in similar camps in other Nazicontrolled countries, serving the agenda of racial genocide.

The Sachsenhausen concentration camp located 35 km away from Berlin was built in 1936, at the same time the city was preparing to host the summer Olympics. A poignant walk around the ruined barracks, punishment cells, execution grounds and crematorium, showed signs of unthinkable brutality. The living conditions were extremely poor, perhaps kept that way purposely so that inmates could die of starvation and disease to save the Nazis a bullet. Even now the small cells in the barracks emit an odd and unpleasant smell that plagued men and women who lived there for days. Unless you have a strong heart, it’s hard to face such gruesome reality that happened only in the recent past.

The life of Berliners whose fate was unfortunately sealed in the eastern quarter, didn’t mean filled with fear, restrictions and suspicion. The museum is housed inside the former head quarters of the Ministry for State Security, better know as ‘Stasi’ which considered itself the shield and sword of the party and

The city passed through several turbulent incarnations, most significant being the Nazi and Communist periods, spearheaded by Adolf Hitler and Joseph Stalin the government.

Since reunification, Berlin is dressed in many new types of attire. Historic buildings have been refurbished, most significant being the Reichstag, the German Parliament which has been crowned with a new glass dome that dominates the skyline. However, KarlMarx Allee is a wide, treelined avenue flanked on both sides with buildings reflecting socialist neoclassical architecture that still remains almost unchanged since it was built in 1949 as a showpiece of new East Germany. A gem of the quarter is Café Sybille. Portraying charms of the ‘50s, its attraction is not only the coffee, but also its numerous posters, photographs and documents that provide good historic information on how the area was developed. Going through them I realise that the thoroughfare when built was called Stalinalle, and featured a huge statue of Stalin, brought down in 1961 after his death and triggering the street name change. The waiter at the café shows me Stalin’s ear scavenged from the torn statue. This instantly signals to me that Berlin has changed, it has become fearless and doesn’t want to remember the darker sides of the past.

Main pic: Charlottenburg Palace

Clockwise from top right: Berlin Wall Sachsenhausen concentration camp East German officer’s uniform Berliner Dom Brandenberg Gate

The Stasi Museum draws a picture of daily life in East Germany, constantly filled with fear, restrictions and suspicion

Travel noTebook

Berlin

GETTING T h E r E

Fly Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) to Frankfurt or Munich from where there are excellent rail connections to Berlin. For all information on rail journeys contact Rail Europe (www.raileurope.com.au) that connects travellers with country railways and offers Eurail Passes, which is a perfect solution for multi-country travel spanning over a period of time.

AccommodATI o N

Overlooking the Spree River, conveniently located Melia Berlin (www.meliaberlin.com) offers excellent service and value. It’s near a train station and walking distance to many iconic attractions.

EATING

Eating A must visit is Amrit’s Lounge (www.amrit.de) at Mitte for an enchanting curry meal while engulfed in an vibrant and colourful atmosphere IN formATI o N More info www.visitBerlin.com

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