Winter warmers from

2 tbsp lemon juice

2 tsp garam masala

Salt to taste

3 tbsp oil

BY SHERYL DIXIT

There’s a chilly nip in the air, and a distinct growl in my tummy.

It’s the weather, I tell myself convincingly, and for good reason. Autumn and winter always make me crave hot puris, spicy kadhi and warm gajar ka halwa, cooked in ghee.

In India, each state has its own culinary solution to dealing with cold weather. Speciality dishes could range from spicy hot to subtly rich cream-based gravies. Here are a range of recipes from different parts of India that may be challenging to prepare, but will be worth the effort.

Bajra is a staple in dry Rajasathan, and rotis and khichdi made from the grain are just delicious. And when you add potatoes and spices for a touch of additional flavour, you’ve got a dish that’s simple and superb.

2 cups bajra (black millet) flour

¾ cup boiled and mashed potatoes

¼ cup chopped onions

4 tbsp freshly chopped coriander

2 tsp ginger-green chilli paste

1 tsp dried mango powder (amchur)

½ tsp garam masala

Salt to taste

Ghee

Combine all the ingredients to make a soft dough, using warm water. Divide the dough into 6 equal portions and roll out each portion into a roti of approximately 6cms. Cook the rotis on a hot tava using ghee, until both sides are golden brown. Serve hot.

Generic to the northern part of India, many States take ownership of this dish, each adding their individual flavour to the ingredients. No matter which, this meat dish is a mouth-watering favourite even with non-north Indians.

1 kg lamb/ mutton cut into medium sized cubes

1 cup yoghurt

2 tbsp garlic paste

4 green chillies slit lengthwise

2 tsp coriander powder

1 tsp cumin powder

2 medium tomatoes chopped fine

Finely cut ginger strips and chopped coriander for the garnish

In a large bowl, mix the lamb/ mutton pieces with the yogurt, garlic paste, lemon juice, garam masala and salt to taste, cover and keep aside to marinate for 3 hours. Heat the oil in a kadhai on a medium flame, add the green chillies and fry till they stop spluttering. Add the lamb with its marinade and fry, stirring frequently, for 5-7 minutes. Add the tomatoes, coriander and cumin powder and mix well. Sprinkle some water over the meat, cover, simmer the flame and cook till the meat is done. Add more water if needed as the meat mustn’t stick to the pan. Normally this dish has very little gravy. Turn off fire, garnish with ginger and coriander leaves and serve with hot rice or chappatis

Pork Vindaloo

There’s something about this spicy, piquant dish that absolutely makes my mouth water, specially if it’s been left to pickle for a day or two. Guaranteed to warm you up, specially if accompanied by a tot of feni

1 kg pork

2 large onions

15 Kashmiri chillies

5 garlic pods

1 inch piece ginger

2 tsp cumin seeds

11/2 tsp turmeric

1 inch cinnamon stick

4 peppercorns

4 cloves

½ cup vinegar

4 tbsp oil

Salt to taste

Cut the pork into medium size pieces and place into a colander or sieve to drain out the excess water. Make sure the pieces are as dry as possible, then transfer to a large bowl. Add salt to the pork and keep aside. For the masala, grind the Kashmiri chillies into a powder, adding a little vinegar to make a smooth paste. Next, add the garlic, ginger, cumin and turmeric to the chilli mix and grind them to a paste using a blender. Add this paste to the pork, mix thoroughly so that all the pieces are evenly coated with the masala. Add the rest of the vinegar to the meat, mix again, cover and store overnight in the fridge.

When ready to cook, blend the onions into a paste and add to the pork mixture and keep aside. In a heavy bottomed vessel, heat the oil and fry the cinnamon, peppercorns and cloves to release the aroma. Gently add the pork and fry thoroughly, turning the pieces around so that they cook evenly. Reduce the flame to low and add some water to create the gravy. Cook on a slow flame until meat is tender, fully cooked and a fiery red colour. Store the vindaloo for a day or two to pickle thoroughly, then serve hot with rice or sannas (soft, steamed rice cakes).

Macher Jhal

This delicious traditional Bengali recipe for peppery fish is just perfect for these cold evenings when nothing but something spicy will chase away your winter blues.

½ kg firm fleshed fish like such as cod, halibut or salmon

1½ tsp turmeric powder

2 large onions, finely chopped

5 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tsp pepper powder

2 medium tomatoes, chopped

4 tbsp oil

1½ cups water

2 tbsp chopped coriander for garnish

Salt to taste

Wash the fish with cold water, and cut into 2 inch pieces. Place separately on a tray and keep aside. Sprinkle a little turmeric and salt over the fish pieces, coating on both sides. Leave to marinade for about 15 minutes.

In a wok or frying pan, heat the oil and carefully slide the fish pieces one at a time into the pan, making sure that they don’t stick to the bottom. Sauté fish to a light brown, turning once. Do not over-fry, or the fish will become chewy. Remove the pieces and drain excess oil on a kitchen paper towel.

Next, in the same pan, add the chopped onion and fry on medium heat for 2-3 minutes. Add garlic and fry for another minute. Add pepper powder and remaining turmeric, and stir for 2-3 minutes. Add tomato and keep stirring. Add water to the mix, and heat gently for a minute. Add fried fish to the pan, gently turning so that the pieces are coated with the sauce. Season with salt, simmer for about ten minutes and garnish with fresh coriander leaves. Serve hot with plain rice.

Lucknow Murgh Biryani

This recipe comes from India’s most populous state, Uttar Pradesh. Named after the state’s capital, this dish uses the traditional ‘Dum Pukht’ style of cooking, with the food sealed and cooked over a slow fire.

(For rice)

1 inch piece of ginger

2 cloves of garlic

1 stick of cinnamon

8 black peppercorns

4 cloves

300 grams basmati rice

Salt to taste

6 tbsp cooking oil

(For gravy)

300 grams cubed boneless chicken

2 large onions, chopped

½ cup chopped tomato

300 ml plain yogurt

70 ml cooking cream

1 tsp ginger paste

1 tsp garlic paste

1 tsp each cumin seeds, red chilli, turmeric powders

1 tsp whole black cumin seeds

2 tsp garam masala powder

6 tbsp cooking oil

Salt to taste

(For garnish)

1 large onion, thinly sliced 4 tbsp each of fresh coriander and mint leaves, chopped fine 1 tsp saffron soaked in 2 tsp milk 1 tsp rose water

2 tbsp cooking oil

For the rice

Wash the rice, drain excess water and keep aside. Heat oil in a pan and fry cloves, peppercorns, and cinnamon until the aroma is released. Add garlic and ginger and fry. Add rice to the mixture, adding enough water to cook well. Season with salt, and cook until well done, ensuring that the grains are separate and don’t stick together. Remove from the flame, pick out the ginger and garlic and keep aside. Keep warm.

For the gravy

Mix chicken with plain yogurt, cream, salt, ginger, garlic, cumin, red chilli and turmeric powders. Heat oil and fry black cumin until it pops. Add chopped onion and cook until brown, then add chopped tomato and garam masala powder. Cook until well blended, then add chicken mixture. Stir fry