Where east meets west meets Indian

BY PREETI JABBAL

The first time I heard of a Chinese restaurant in Melbourne that also makes pizzas, it seemed like an answer to my prayers. With a fussy child whose food intake is restricted to pizza, pasta, rice and dosa (all plain), I was unable to unreservedly explore the amazing array of cuisines that comes with living in a melting pot like Melbourne. My first visit to the Great Eastern Hakka restaurant in Mount Waverley was merely out of curiosity to see how one could possibly have pizzas and Chinese under the same restaurant roof. Mr. Fussy Eater also accompanied me, determined to continue kicking a fuss if the pizza wasn’t as good as the one he was used to.

And most importantly, it is the only place in town where you can eat the most amazing Manchurian and Chow Mein that reminds you of the ‘Indian Chinese’ from back home.

Between that day three years ago and today, I have lost count of the number of times we have eaten at the Great Eastern Hakka restaurant and sampled their eclectic mix of cuisine. The creative menu that consists of a variety of dishes like Cantonese, Hakka, Swedish desserts and pizza, is as delicious as it is unique. To those who haven’t been here I can strongly advise, with no reservations, it is a dining experience to fondly remember. From the moment you enter the restaurant to the time you depart with a full belly, the service is friendly and welcoming. The spice palate offered is more vibrant and colourful than other Chinese eateries. And most importantly, it is the only place in town where you can eat the most amazing Manchurian and Chow Mein that reminds you of the ‘Indian Chinese’ from back home.

Run by brother and sister duo Steve Liu and Jenny Lee, GEH was launched to the delight of Melbourne’s food lovers on September 8, 2006. Located on the main shopping strip on Stephenson’s Road in Mount Waverley, the restaurant offers a menu brought with much love and dedication to gastronomy from the huge Hakka Chinese community that once lived in India. Hakka people are primarily found in South Eastern China (Guangdong and Fujian) but they are also found in other parts of China and the world. Steve and Jenny were born in Calcutta, India and then their family migrated to Sweden in the ‘80s. Jenny and Steve helped out at their uncle’s restaurant in Sweden while studying. There they learnt the art of making Swedish pizzas and a pizza base that literally melts in the mouth, a closely guarded recipe that is much sought after by fellow professionals.

It was destiny that bought Jenny to

Australia on a holiday in 2003. At that time the family was debating on whether they should migrate to Canada. Jenny fell in love with the weather here and decided to settle here instead. They decided to start a small restaurant as a trial to see how Melbournians would accept their quirky combination of Asian and Nordic selection. The GEH was originally an Indian restaurant called Indian Inn but it was converted, remodelled and renovated entirely to its present Oriental ambience. With its high-backed dark leather chairs, crisp white linen and warm red interior, the GEH is a restaurant suitable for everything from date nights to young families to special event get-togethers. I would however draw the line at having a big fat Indian/Greek wedding there as the restaurant can only stretch to accommodate 80 at best.

The menu at GEH is strictly divided into east and west and there is no fusion of cuisines. From my innumerable visits, my hot favourite is the Chilli chicken, the Manchurian fish and Hakka noodles. Another favoured dish is a special concoction that Steve calls the Bengal Masala fish served to us with great affection and a smattering of Hindi that he remembers from his childhood in India. I find it impossible to exercise much chopsticks restraint when confronted with this engaging and appetizing dish. Even vegetarians have a lot to choose from and you cannot go wrong with any of the exciting pizzas on offer, or the delectable soups that start off an excellent meal. For something a bit different, I suggest Har Q - the Hakka specialty dish of stir-fry king prawns and vegetables in a white wine and egg flower sauce.

Another favoured dish is a special concoction that Steve calls the Bengal Masala fish served to us with great affection and a smattering of Hindi that he remembers from his childhood in India.

For dessert, a must have is the Daim cake, a Swedish cake that comes in flavours of dark chocolate and milk chocolate with almonds. The perfectly portioned, elegantly decorated cake is clearly the highlight here - so save room. The wine list at GEH is sufficient with a selection ranging from $13.95 to $74.95 per bottle, while the mains range from $15 to $32. The extensive pizza menu ranges from $11 to $25 for the gourmet variety. Takeaway is also available. For best results I would suggest that you shy away from a mix-and-match strategy in favor of sampling one cuisine per visit, unless you have your own little fusspots (like my son) to tag along. In that case, happily order the plainest pizza for them and feel free to nod your head regretfully at what they are missing out on as you tuck into your own enormously satisfying and sumptuous meal.