A zest for Zanzibar

known in the entire continent.

Like its neighbours Mauritius and Seychelles, Zanzibar depict images of an exotic paradise-land, soaked in a tropical languor and stippled with lush plantations, coconut palms, multicoloured coral reefs and miles and miles of white sands splashed by the warm turquoise waters of the Indian ocean.

However Zanzibar offers more to its modern day visitors; its legendary history emanates from centuries of interaction with different races and cultures and is a dividend for visitors like me, who are enthused by episodes of the past.

Recorded account says that the Assyrians, Sumerians, Egyptians, Phoenicians, Indians, Chinese, Persians, Portuguese, Omani Arabs, Dutch and English have all marked their footprints on Zanzibar’s soil at one time or another.

As early as the 8th century AD, came the Arabs from around present day Oman and Yemen, and the Persians from Iran.

The land was then like a gold mine to grow spices, obtain ivory by killing elephants found in abundance in the mainland forests, and collect humans as slaves from neighbouring countries. The Arabs got straight into this and began a lucrative business of exporting spices, ivory and slaves to the Arab world. They spread their control from Zanzibar to over 1000 miles of the mainland coast, from Mozambique to Somalia. Later they were joined by traders from India, most of whom eventually made Zanzibar their home. The Arabs and Indians maintained their religion, culture and traditions, though being far away from home. Zanzibar became the Orient of Africa and gained name both, as ‘Spice Island’ and ‘Slave Capital’ of the world.

On the other hand, the Persians who were more into fishing and agriculture, did not hesitate to blend themselves with the local Africans through inter-marriages, giving rise to a new Afro-Asian race and a language called Swahili, which subsequently became and still remains the main spoken medium in Kenya and Tanzania.

European flavour swept the island when Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, on his way to India in 1499, stopped at Zanzibar and consequently established a colony which lasted for next the next 200 years, till it was taken over the Omani Sultans.

Becoming extremely prosperous and powerful, particularly with the slave business, the Sultans shifted their capital from the Persian Gulf to Zanzibar. A majority of land ownership came under them while trading, which was shared with Indians. Their regime continued, later under a British protectorate, till 1963, when Zanzibar became fully independent as a constitutional monarchy.

However the local Africans didn’t favour this and a bloody insurgency followed. In one fateful night the rebels killed over 10,000 Arabs and Indians, and formed new republic which a year later joined mainland Tanganyika to form the United Republic of Tanzania.

Consisting of two main islands - Unguja and Pemba and myriad islets, Zanzibar today exists as a partner state of Tanzania, but with distinct individuality. They have their own flag, government and president and require filling embarkation forms, even if you are arriving from or are departing to mainland Tanzania, for which you already have a valid visa.

The Unguja Island is Zanzibar’s main population centre and entry point for most visitors, either by sea or air. It has enough of interest to merit a few days stay and is also good base for visiting the archipelago’s other attractions.

At the heart of Unguja, lies the old Stone Town, the nation’s cultural and historical epicenter of Zanzibar. Edged on an old-world waterfront and crammed with sites of great historical significance, this fabled quarter of winding alleyways, bustling bazaars, mosques and temples and impressive architecture reveals a mystical journey into a world of another time, more Arabic in character and identity than African. Leftovers from early settlers and foreign invaders are noticeable in every corner.

Looking at the quarter’s urban texture and architectural setting, it appears that little has changed in the setup since it was developed by Omani Sultans and wealthy Indian merchants, almost 300 years ago. Every building and townscape infrastructure I notice is decrepit and needs more than “tender loving care”. The surrounding ambiance is laidback and slow, as if no one has anything to do. Locals tout its sloppy mood, quaint lifestyle and frail architecture as an appealing feature of the destination which perhaps, sets the mood to relax and unwind.

Time rewinds when you glimpse an array of rundown mansions, whose original owners appear to have vied with each other over the profligacy of their dwellings. This one-upmanship is particularly reflected in the brass studded, carved wooden doors that proclaim the past opulence and grandeur of the mansions they guard.

Several memoirs of historical significance draw tourist attention: the Sultan’s Palace, now a museum exhibiting memorabilia of the Omani rulers; House of Wonders, the National Museum portraying the island nation’s history and culture; an ancient Omani fort with an amphitheatre; an Anglican Cathedral built on the site of the former slave market; the four-story Old Dispensary building reminiscent of British-India colonial architecture, Mnara Mosque, decorated with a double chevron pattern; and Tippu Tip’s house, Tippu being East Africa’s most notorious slave trader are the ones that always come up in the itinerary of most visitors.

Beyond history, the tropical haven offers visitors a diverse range of enticing activities to fill your time. Tour nearby spice plantations; cruise to an unknown island in a traditional wooden boat called a dhow; view ruined forts and palaces just beyond, but within reach; get lost in exotic and colorful markets or hide in one of the isolated beaches where the sand is powdery white, and the sea is ethereal shades of turquoise.

Others truly take it very easy and do nothing. They stay at a hotel overlooking the sea, walk along seaside promenades with friendly locals; cheer on kids playing football at the beach, watch the sunset from the balcony of their hotel room, or simply have a drink at the bar followed by a long dinner at a vibrant café or a quiet restaurant .

Whatever one does, they all enjoy time in Zanzibar.