Breezing around Bandung

From volcanoes to shopping, from education to pleasant weather, this gem of a city in Indonesia has a charm of its own and something for everyone

BY THOMAS E KING

Bandung’s biggest drawcard is ugly, smells bad and often can’t even be seen at all! But that doesn’t stop tourists from making an excursion out of Indonesia’s third largest city for a glimpse and a whiff of Tangkuban Prahu. There are around 130 active volcanos in the vast Indonesian archipelago – currently the newsmaker is Mt Merapi outside Yogyakarta - and another 200 or so that are extinct. Tangkuban Prahu comes under a third geologic category: dormant activity.

This smouldering giant just 15 km out of Bandung is also unusual because its crater is the only one accessible by road on the population-packed island of Java. A modern roadway is the hard surface link to a still bubbling crater that emits stinking sulphur fumes. Hundreds of thousands of tourists come every year to see and smell this geologic acrobat.

Upon arrival, visitors are greeted by entrepreneurs eager to sell charcoal broiled corn, hand carved bone elephants, plastic bags filled with pineapple pieces, hastily woven wicker baskets and a multitude of other wares, both large and small. After walking along a makeshift path leading to the crater I stopped before one rustic shed where a blue jeans clad artisan was deftly carving animals and household items from a strange patterned wood.

The finished product was attractive, but I had come to Tangkuban Prahu to sniff, not shop. Walking on, I soon reached the edge of a 500 metre in diameter crater. Standing behind a flimsy fence I gazed out to a small lake and a virtually silent moon-like landscape. Now and again I heard a ‘whish’ as a plume of stinky air shot skyward.

The first eruption of Tangkuban Prahu was in 1829. In the 180+ years since then, a 2000 metre high mountain has been created and several craters have been formed. The 200 metre deep Kawah Ratu Crater is the easiest one to see ... and smell.

Try to get to the volcano early in the morning as mist weaves its way through the trees by noon. I did arrive early but there were still times when a blanket of spray swirled around me, noticeably obscuring visibility.

Not far from the volcano, the Ciater Hot Springs have been a health magnet since the days of the Dutch. The steaming hot sulphurous pools attract visitors seeking remedies for an assortment of ailments. While the odorous crater and hot springs are among Bandung’s prime natural attractions, the capital of West Java has a number of other special appeals of its own.

One is the city’s proximity to Jakarta. Set in cool, volcanoencircled hills that sprawl across a 700 metre high plateau in the beautiful Parahyangan Mountains 190 km southeast of Jakarta, three million-strong Bandung can be easily reached from the Indonesian capital. The scenic journey is especially popular with residents of crowded Jakarta, so book in advance and avoid weekends and holidays when the city is packed with day tripping and overnighting bargain hunters scouring the many factory outlets along Jalan Cihampelas. This haven for shopaholics is locally known as Jean’s Street!

Bandung is the power house for around 60 per cent of Indonesia’s textile industry. This spans the spectrum from traditional Indonesia batik to denim.

Reaching Bandung is like inhaling a breath of fresh air, particularly for those coming from the congested capital. The Garden City’s fine climate is experienced throughout the year. This was a key reason why the city was selected so long ago as a commercial, aviation and educational hub. The prestigious Institute of Technology and some 30 other universities have made the city a true centre of learning, with students from across the globe studying in this cool, green haven.

Established in the late 19th century as a garrison town by the then ruling Dutch colonial powers, Bandung is a relatively modern and unhurried city of particular significance to visitors interested in architecture and culture. In the 1920s and 1930s, architects blueprinted many of the city’s prominent buildings in a so-called ‘international style’. The collection of Tropical Art Deco masterpieces that remains is unique in Asia, if not the world.

Unfortunately, a few have been lost to relentless developers who erected glass and steel office blocks and shopping plazas. However, the city’s active conservation society has helped ensure that Bandung remains a low rise zone with tree lined avenues and parks. I set off down the most important of these leafy thoroughfares, Jalan Asia-Afrika, and surprisingly, discovered a link to India.

Dating to 1879 but given several incarnations over the years, Gedung Merdeka (Freedom Building) was the site of the first Asia-Africa Conference. It was at this gathering in 1955 that world leaders formulated the principles for the Non-Aligned Movement. Statesmen of the time China’s Chou En Lai, Indonesia’s President Sukarno, Egypt’s President Nasser and Pandit Nehru came with others to initiate a counterweight front to the American and Russian power blocs. Today, the building houses a museum where I saw several photos of India’s first prime minister with other great figures of world history.

1. The ever steaming Tangkuban Prahu is the most accessible volcano on Java.

2. Numerous factory outlets in suburban Bandung attract customers with garish displays.

3. A talented artisan handcrafts wooden oddities just beyond the bubbling volcano.

4. Stop at Bogor en route to Bandung and explore the world famous botanical gardens.

5. Children regularly demonstrate their musical talents using bamboo angklungs.

There’s more than a history lesson awaiting your arrival in Bandung. You will also learn about its distinct culture while travelling around this charming city once called the Paris of Java. The area of West Java where Bandung is located is called Sunda and many aspects of typical Sundanese culture can be seen in the provincial capital. For instance, there are a number of Sundanese restaurants spread across the city which serve specialities like chicken steamed in bamboo leaves and fish with ginger.

Another treat not to be missed is an afternoon of music and dance at Saung Angklung Udjo, a cultural village in suburban Bandung. Here I watched batik-clad performers – some as young as five years old - play the angklung, a Sundanese traditional musical instrument made of bamboo, that had been handcrafted by other artisans elsewhere in the popular village.

Travel notebook BANDUNG

Getting There

Garuda Indonesia operates a total of six direct services to Jakarta from both Sydney and Melbourne with return economy class airfares starting from $829 per person including taxes. Contact your preferred travel agent or call Garuda Indonesia on 1300 365 330 or visit www.garuda-indonesia.com

Travel

Bandung is linked to Jakarta by air, road and rail. My choice is the air conditioned rail service with the Argo Parahyangan Express connecting the two centres eight times a day. The journey – a 3 ½ hour trip from central Jakarta’s Gambir Station to the rail terminus in the heart of Bandung – is a scenic treat with panoramas of rice terraces, mountains, jungle and tea plantations.

Packages

Garuda Indonesia’s “Bali on ANY budget” features a wide range of package holidays to Indonesian destinations including Bandung. Contact your travel agent or call 1300 365 331. Visit www.BalionANYbudget.com.au

There are around 130 active volcanos in the vast Indonesian archipelago –currently the newsmaker is Mt Merapi outside Yogyakarta - and another 200 or so that are extinct.

Before that performance I watched ornately decorated puppets in a performance that interpreted ancient legends. Wayang golek is the traditional Sundanese puppetry. This puppet show was followed by the crashing of gongs and the clashing of cymbals during a gamelan concert. Then it was on to the angklung

The afternoon of musical enlightenment – bamboo style - was heightened when audience members were each handed instruments, each tuned to a different key and then given a tuneful tutorial from a master player. In an interactive session, along with dozens of others, I eventually mastered the basics of the region’s unique music and we played as one. Perhaps another lesson is needed, however, before I’m ready to give a solo concert!

Accommodation

Conveniently located in the central city, the Grand Hotel Peanger is one of Bandung’s more historic hotels. Opened in the 1920s, the 187 room property is a landmark in the Braga area of town which is noted for its historic buildings. See www.preanger.aerowisata.com

Excursion

Sited between Jakarta and Bandung, Bogor is a city offering an outstanding botanical odyssey. Established by the Dutch in 1817, the 110 ha. Bogor Gardens house over 11,000 species of plants. The park, considered to be one of the biggest tropical gardens in the world, contains many rare and unusual plants including the Bunga Raksasa which grows to 3 ½ metres.

INFORMATION

For downloadable brochures visit www.visit-indonesia.com.au or contact AVIAREPS Oceania, which represents Visit Indonesia (the Indonesia Ministry of Culture and Tourism) on (02) 9959 4277. An independent website for West Java is www.visitwestjava.com

DECEMBER (1) 2010