Sabah Sensations

Experiencing a majestic mountain, the wonders of flora and fauna and a taste of the tribal make an exhilarating experience

By THOMAS E KING

A stark mountain top thrust above the lush tropical greenery of Sabah is the sole destination for many tourists who visit this activity-packed state of East Malaysia. Kota Kinabalu, the state capital, is the entry point for Malaysia’s most far flung realm and as I discovered a few months ago, the best starting point for a thrilling journey to a mountain called Kinabalu

The park headquarters for the sanctuary that encircles this fabled mountain is 88 km from the city. A wide highway puts the abundant flora and less visible fauna of the 754 sq km Kinabalu National Park within an hour’s drive. Many day trippers from ‘KK’, as it’s commonly called, come for these attractions with the added inducement of being able to spend a few calm hours strolling in cool mountain air.

Wild orchids, lovely bluebells, daffodils, rhododendron and the giant Rafflesia flower measuring up to a metre across are found along walking tracks. It’s not very likely you’ll spot wildlife, though sightings of flying squirrel, barking deer, bearded pig and even orang-utan have been recorded.

A few hours of relaxation among 1200 odd varieties of orchids and 325 varieties of birds may be enough for some, but others won’t settle for anything less than the buzz of scaling the usually cloud-obscured mount.

The first recorded ascent of the highest peak between the Himalayas and New Guinea was made in 1851 by Sir Hugh Low, a British government officer. Assaults on the 10 million year old, 4095 metre high granite massif don’t make headlines these days because thousands of visitors annually make the climb.

A few hours of relaxation among 1200 odd varieties of orchids and 325 varieties of birds may be enough for some, but others won’t settle for anything less than the buzz of scaling the usually cloud-obscured mount

No special mountaineering experience is required if the main route to the glacier scarred summit is followed, but the climb is very tiring and tourists must be in good shape to complete the two to three day trip. Several huts with basic cooking and accommodation facilities strategically located along the way have been established to make the journey more comfortable.

The driest and sunniest part of the year is from February to May but even then stout shoes, a warm hat, gloves and warm clothes are needed, plus food for the entire journey. A sleeping bag can be rented at the huts. Climbers must utilise the services of an authorised guide and porters can be hired.

Visitors who simply want to slow down for a few days and not test their endurance will enjoy the serenity of the area and the variety of pleasant options available. My wife and I, for instance, traipsed along the path winding through the park’s extensive botanical garden, went golfing at a picturesque course located on the mountain slope and spent hours at our heritage resort, sitting opposite an amazingly cloudless peak and watching the last rays of the day cast a pink hue over this geologic wonder.

Exhilarating experiences don’t end there. The next day, after a sunrise spectacle and a hearty breakfast we drove into nearby Kundasang to pay our respects at the War Memorial. This retreat honours the memory of all war casualties, but especially Australian and British service personnel who perished in the infamous Death March in 1944.

Meticulously cared for by a Thai man who neither served in the conflict nor knew any of those who died, the War Memorial has received glowing tributes from around the world including one from Queen Elizabeth.

Following this sombre stop we proceeded to the sloping hills, dipping valleys and sea of green enveloping the Sabah Tea Garden. Established in 1978, the biggest tea plantation on Borneo Island, has thousands of hectares covered with tea bushes. As we drove up the hill to the Tea House, I could see women with baskets carefully plucking green leaves which would later become Sabah Tea. (Some 5 tonnes of leaf are picked every day but just 15 per cent of Sabah Tea is exported.) It was a scene much like ones I have seen in Darjeeling in the north of India and Wellington in the south, though neither has tea plantations with the backdrop of a peak that’s encircled with timeless legends and secluded by mist most afternoons.

Having completed a round through the area’s top attractions, we headed back to KK. The state capital of Sabah lazes on the edge of the South China Sea overlooking a cluster of coral-fringed islands. Formerly known as Jesselton, the city had 30,000 inhabitants by 1881. Sixty years later at the start of WW II, the number had risen to 80,000. The city took a beating during the war, so much so that only three structures remained: a clock tower, the old post office and an administrative building. Everything else is new and there are a few architectural standouts.

The Sabah Museum & Science Centre is definitely a modern structure. Inside this stylish building inspired by the longhouses of tribal people, I discovered a treasure trove of cultural artefacts and natural history exhibits. A display of relics from the Song Dynasty revealed that Sabah’s merchants were trading with the Chinese as early as 960 AD.

Because of Sabah’s location on the northeast coast of Borneo, trade links have also been long established with the Philippines. Every evening the city’s largest bazaar comes to life on a little strip of land along the waterfront. The colourful Filipino Market which has an open air section for fruit and vegetables and a large covered stall for souvenirs is also a great place for fishjust-out-of-the-sea dinners at pocket pleasing prices.

While KK isn’t awash with attractions, there are numerous exceptional lures within a few hours of the 500,000-strong capital. Having conquered the mountain – actually watched climbers do the hard yards – and leafed through a sensational tea garden it was time to monkey around … quite literally.

The Klias River is several hours from KK, yet the journey is most worthwhile because late afternoon cruises allow binocular equipped visitors to observe Proboscis monkeys feeding on rainforest trees. These rare denizens of the jungle are unlike other monkeys as the male is noted for a large protruding nose. As the harsh tropical sun dipped behind the towering trees and the jungle became cooler I saw more and more of these animal oddities dining from skyhigh ‘restaurants’ where the ‘menu’ features just one delicacy.

There’s far more on the table at the Mari Mari Cultural Village not far away. I tasted a veritable feast of tribal treats after having undergone a ‘confrontation’ with a group of ‘head hunters’ in front of their primitive homes. A 25-strong troupe of skilled performers – half a dozen acting out the role of fierce head hunters – ‘greet’ visitors before a collection of rainforest surrounded traditional homes.

During a highly informative 90 minute excursion into ancient Borneo, visitors learn about different tribes, see a blow pipe demonstration, sample rice wine, watch firestarting with bamboo sticks and participate in rousing dances along with the cast of authentically costumed performers. The performance ended, the dinner concluded and I reluctantly left this lost world setting, my mind spinning with the excitement of sensational Sabah.