Wild about Sarawak

The city of Sarawak is unique in its history, architecture and natural beauty, making it one of the most liveable cities in Asia.

BY THOMAS E KING

Every evening before the sun drops behind the wide, brown Sarawak River, the MV Equatorial departs from Kuching’s waterfront promenade. The cruise that follows is a pleasant introduction to the capital of the East Malaysian state of Sarawak, because visitors are provided with a cultural show on the covered deck of the cruiser, as well as commentary about many of the points of interest in the colourful city’s past.

After departing I was directed to look across the river to a white building that appeared like a decoration on a wedding cake. The Astana is now the residence of the Chief Minister of Sarawak. This stately mansion built in 1870 was the regal home for a succession of White Rajahs. Their story is intertwined with the history of Kuching, in fact, all of Malaysia’s largest state.

Tales of the White Rajahs began when English adventurer James Brooke sailed his yacht, the Royalist, to Borneo in 1839 and helped the Sultan of Brunei quell a rebellion. In return, the Sultan offered Brooke the governorship of Sarawak. So began the 105 year (1841-1946) rule of the Brooke family of White Rajahs.

While the greeting was warm and the ambiance was amiable, less than a century ago this Iban community headman could have been a head hunter

When James Brooke died in 1869, his nephew Charles Brooke continued the dynasty for the next 50 years. The latter built many of the city’s lovely historic buildings, including the circa 1874 Court House and the Astana.

James Brooke was succeeded by Sir Charles Vyner Brooke who designed his own flag, issued his own stamps and minted his own coins.

You might still find the latter in shops along India Street. This pedestrian walkway derives its name from the fact that it has always been occupied by Indian shops specialising in textiles, clothing, jewellery and household items. The street was closed to vehicular traffic in 1992 and converted into a pedestrian mall. I wandered down the quaint time capsule looking at the diverse facades of shop houses, photographing the 160 year old Mesjid Bandar Kuching, a sanctuary for many local Indian Muslims, and peering past doorways of a clean and green urban centre ranked as one of the most liveable cities in Asia.

There are many factors contributing to this accolade, including the nearly kilometre-long tree lined waterfront promenade that hugs the banks of the Sarawak River on one side, and a streetscape of 19th century Chinese shop houses on the other. Throughout the humid day, locals and tourists parade along the walkway.

In the early hours, joggers bounce along its gentle bend. Gardeners and cleaners also start the day early to ensure the waterfront’s manicured gardens and shady paths are verdant and tidy.

While the waterfront area teems with activity during the day, it transforms into a fantasy of lights at dusk. Visitors lean on rails gazing across a flotilla of manpowered water taxis called sampans, ferrying people home from work or shopping trips with only a primitive oil lamps to guide them.

Fronting the waterfront is the Main Bazaar, once the city commercial centre. Nowadays, it’s studded with native arts and craft shops, a few restaurants and boutique hotels. Travel operators also abound, so it’s the place to organise trips to tribal longhouses or book river excursions that probe the depths of the Borneo jungle.

The Sarawak River is not the only significant waterway in the state. The Rajang is longer but lesser known. From its source in the highlands of central Borneo, Sarawak’s longest river flows for some 563 km before emptying into the South China Sea. Along its way it passes Sibu, a commercial centre and since mid-2009, the departure point for the MV Orient Pandaw. There are frequent domestic flights connecting Kuching with Sibu to the east and on arrival my wife and I were graciously met by Pandaw staff and whisked to the docked vessel.

The following nine days with 53 like-minded travellers aboard a new river vessel built to replicate a 19th century colonial steamer, proved to be highly satisfying and culturally stimulating. Fitted out with all modern conveniences, the 30 cabin MV Orient Pandaw provides maximum comfort in a very remote corner of the world. We learned just how remote during informative lectures followed by well organised excursions.

During the 250 km upstream journey (we travelled by day and docked in the Rajang by night) we passed several small communities and countless longhouses where up to a hundred people lived under the same roof.

As progress ‘flows’ upstream many of these longhouses have been rebuilt in modern styles. This was not what we encountered outside Kapit, the last major administrative post on the Rajang River which dates to the days of the White Rajahs. Built in 1880, the all wood longhouse looked its age. Inside the covered veranda we were served tuak (local rice wine) while watching a welcome dance from the longhouse headman. Dressed in a costume

Visitors lean on rails gazing across a flotilla of manpowered water taxis called sampans, ferrying people home from work or shopping trips with only a primitive oil lamps to guide them

1. This statue at the edge of Kuching’s Chinatown is a hint as to how the city got its name

2. The MV Orient Pandaw explores much of the lengthy Rajang River in colonial style

3. With its shops and views to a night-lit Astana, a twilight stroll along the promenade is a must

4. Pandaw excursions include longhouse visits where dancers of all ages welcome visitors

5. Kuching’s pedestrian friendly India Street Mall is a favourite with bargain hunters

Photos: Thomas E KIng befitting a five year old, even his grandson got into the act!

While the greeting was warm and the ambiance was amiable, less than a century ago this Iban community headman could have been a head hunter. The practice was outlawed in 1924 with a peacekeeping ceremony held at the fort built by Charles Brooke in Kapit.

While the days of head hunting have long ended there are still reminders hanging around … quite literally. I walked part way down the longhouse’s long corridor and looked to the dusty rafters where a collection of skulls could just be seen in the dim light. Back on the slow moving Pandaw, fellow travellers shared skull stories as local longboats sped by transporting locals and the occasional backpack visitor between settlements.

The Rajang is normally a docile waterway but she showed her wild side on the day the guide briefed us about the Pelagus Rapids. After a buffet breakfast we left our floating hotel and transferred to a 600 hp flat bottom tong-kang (cargo boat) for a tryst with white water.

The initial hours were easy as we journeyed past pristine rainforest, sand shoals and the occasional longhouse. As the river narrowed the current increased. The full power of the engine was only put to the test when we met turbulent waters and could only inch upstream. The boat surged but never stalled as spray washed our faces. The struggle was finally over and calm reigned once again.

The captain turned the cargo boat around and began the far faster paced journey downstream dodging protruding boulders and sand bars. After dinner many of us gathered on the observation deck and toasted an adrenalin charged adventure that none had ever experienced before, but all would happily repeat again.