Temptations of

By THOMAS E KING

At any time of the year the mountainous hinterlands of Koi Samui look like the welcoming committee at the annual general meeting of Coconuts R Us! As far as the eye can see only green palm fronds wave in unison. Millions of swaying coconut palms are indeed a cordial greeting but the centrepiece of this 80-island archipelago in the Gulf of Thailand offers much more.

If Koh Samui’s powder sand beaches and secluded bays dotted with sun-bleached rock formations are not enough, then there are jungle-covered mountains concealing waterfalls and cool rock pools, exotic butterflies, wild orchids and gigantic ferns.

Tourism is relatively new to Thailand’s third largest island. It’s only been since the early 1970s that beachcombers drawn by the natural charms of the turtle-shaped island began arriving. Far more recent is the range of sophisticated accommodation developed for comfort craving visitors who want to experience one of Thailand’s most popular islands.

Rental vehicles can be hired for a selfpropelled loop around or even across the island’s mountainous interior. Otherwise, song-taos (small pickup trucks with two rows of seats) and seelors (small, covered lorries) regularly crisscross the island.

One place to start your exploration is from Na Thon, the 4000-strong ‘capital’ of Koi Samui. All facilities that travellers need are located in its sleepy port-facing main street: post and internet, chemists and supermarkets, travel agents and dive shops, inexpensive restaurants and beach hotels and the ferry terminal where boats connect Samui with the mainland.

One attraction of Na Thon is its small collection of old teak Chinese shop houses and cafes. While such veterans are now almost gone from the scene in Bangkok, there are still a few examples of this old-fashioned style of Thai architecture to be found in the back streets of Na Thon.

Koi Samui is not filled with manmade attractions. Most points of interest have resulted from the forces of nature except for a solitary 12m-high statue of Buddha. “Big

Buddha” as he’s known locally sits on an islet off Bo Phut Beach at the northern end of the island. A sunset view of the beach with the statue dominating the skyline is an impressive sight.

Farther on I discovered another scene stealer, the Na Muang Waterfalls. Cascading in two tiers from mountain origins, these lace curtains are the typical hidden-in-the-jungle waterfalls. Located about 10 km south of An Thon, the journey is worth the effort for those who like swimming in the privacy of their own waterfall-fed, sandy-bottomed pool.

The allure of this pocket size island is strong but more temptations await in the far north western provinces of Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai. The name Chiang Mai (as well as Chiang Rai) can be used in two ways. The first is Chiang Mai Province, one of the farthest of the country’s 76 self-governing administrative divisions.

Chiang Mai, when referring to the prosperous city, is Thailand’s second largest urban centre. Reached in just over an hour from Bangkok, Chiang Mai is a world away from the high rise and busy Thai capital. This provincial capital is cooler and far less congested and visitor facilities are absolutely first rate. And there’s enough to do and see