Compass Magazine by Independent Colleges

mpass C

Summer 2010

the alternative travel magazine

NO OXEGEN

GUIDE TO EUROPEAN MUSIC FESTIVALS

BACKPACKING IN JAPAN

SKIING

Off The

DOWN UNDER

TO TR P 10 AV TIP EL S

Beaten Track

| Fashion Cities | Couch Surfing | Toronto | J1 USA

COMPASS

CONTENTS N A P A J 8 18 J1 USA

K R O Y W E N 7 2

PHOTO: Andrew Cosgrave

European Music Festivals

2 1 O T TORON 2 2 A I L A AUSTR

INTERRAILING 28 Fashion Capitals Of The World

3 Top 10 Travel Tips

15 Irish Culture Abroad

16 Couch !"#$%&

32 24 What Doesn’t Baseball: An Idiot’s Kill You Guide Makes You !'#(%&)#

Leah Jordan and Conor Tobin give you the lowdown on all the books, gadgets and tunes that you’ll need this summer

Rory Coen explores the fortunes of the Irish in New York and Singapore

Sara Marilungo investigates the latest travel craze of ditching the hostel in favour of a stranger’s couch

Intrepid travellers share their holiday horror stories with Deirdre Gilhawley

World Cup or no, baseball will take centre stage in the US this summer. Andrew Cosgrave gives you the basics

34 My Favourite Place

Each member of the Compass team reveals their favourite place in the whole wide world

PHOTO: Paleo Festival

COMPASS THE TEAM EDITOR: Steven O’Rourke CHIEF DESIGNER: Cormac Murtagh CHIEF SUBEDITOR:)=+,',)><'?':%9@/"1' PRODUCTION MANAGER: Andrew Cosgrave PICTURE EDITOR:)A+,+/)B+<%, ASSISTANT DESIGNERS: Andrew Cosgrave, A+,+/)B+<%, ASSISTANT SUBEDITORS: Rory Coen, Deirdre Gilhawley

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ADVISERS: Janice Gaffey, Lizzie GoreGrimes, June Wright, Thomas McGrawLewis, Paula Mullooly PRINTED BY: Conway Media Limited. DISCLAIMER: F.%(")"&"/?)"!!+/$).'#)<"",)1'*")$+) ensure all information (including prices) is correct at time of going to print, Compass can accept no /"#;+,#%<%(%$?)!+/)%,9+//"9$)%,!+/1'$%+,6B.")&%":#) "G;/"##"*)%,)'/$%9("#)'/")$.+#")+!)$.")9+,$/%<0$+/#C) ',*)*+),+$),"9"##'/%(?)/"H"9$)$.+#")+!)I,*";",*",$) A+(("3")J0<(%,6

WELCOME

CONTRIBUTORS:)=+,',)><'?':%9@/"1'C)D/,') Ballout, Rory Coen, Andrew Cosgrave, Peter Flanagan, Deirdre Gilhawley, Leah Jordan, Gemma Kavanagh, Sara Marilungo, Stewart McCarthy, Aisling Murray, Cormac Murtagh, E$"&",)D-=+0/@"C)A+,+/)B+<%,)

STEVEN O’ROURKE EDITOR

nd so it is. Compass has made it from the imagination of 14 MA Journalism students from Independent College Dublin all the way into your hands. Compass is an alternative travel magazine, aimed at satisfying the needs of travellers searching for something more than sun, sea and sunburn. With Compass we want to take you off the beaten track, provide you with new insights into familiar destinations and arm you with everything you need before, during and after your trip. !"#$%&'(#)*+#,+'$#&''*-(#.)*/00#,"1#2#costeffective way of touring Japan (P. 8), learn why music !"#$%&'(#)*+,-$).'&")$+)/"#0($)%,)10*)23.$#)456) 78)',*)*%#9+&"/)$."):+/(*-#)$+;)2&")<0*3"$) fashion destinations (P. 30). !/1#0&3-#$)#$%2"3#200#)*+#4)"$+&5*$)+'#6)+#'%2+&"7# their words with the world and for their efforts in ensuring that all information contained in Compass was correct at the time of going to print. Special thanks must go to Cormac Murtagh, Andrew Cosgrave and Conor Tobin for their efforts in developing and completing the layout and design of Compass. I must also acknowledge the work of our subedit ing team of Ronan Abayawickrema, Rory Coen and Deirdre Gilhawley who have worked diligently to dot every i and cross every t. To our lecturers at Independent College Dublin – especially Janice Gaffey, Lizzie GoreGrimes, June Wright, Thomas McGrawLewis and Paula Mullooly – without your guidance, patience and time, this magazine would not exist. Thanks also to Martha Matthews and Ian Byrne at Independent Digital Limited. Finally, to our readers. We hope you enjoy reading Compass as much as we enjoyed writing, designing and producing it. Travel well.

ON THE COVER Music festivals page 6 Skiing page 22 Japan page 10

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PHOTO: Shutterstock COVER DESIGN: Conor Tobin COMPASS SYMBOL: Adam Foley CONTACT COMPASS: +353 1 6351190

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PHOTOS: Nintendo / Shutterstock / Hush Puppies

TOP 10 TRAVEL TIPS

GAMES

LUGGAGE

FOOTWEAR

Nintendo DS Need we say any more? With over 1,000 games to choose from, you’ll never be bored. What we love about the Nintendo DS is how fun it can be for adults and kids. And after you’re tired running around with Mario, you can train your brain. The vast range of games really does offer something for everyone. A great way to play computer games without the guilt.

Flylight luggage Comes as set of two with an inbuilt weighing scales. Now, anyone who has been to the US or knows someone who has, will !"#$%&'("#)'*$)+$"$,')-.)(")/"0+!/1')2$/3* ing scales. A laptop compartment comes as standard with this set of luggage and there are numerous interior pockets. And, last but not least, the zips can be locked for added peace of mind.

Hush Puppies They have ditched their frumpy, mumsy look. The modernised sandal for summer 2010 is colourful and comfortable. In hot climates, the soft leather is breathable and shapes to every individual foot. They can be worn all day, and then effortlessly make the transformation night wear. After a three month trip, these shoes will be ready to be put away until next year.

2. Mensa Brain Trainer

2. Millets Revolution Rucksack

2. Crocs

3. Travel Scrabble

3. Samsonite BLite

3. Quicksilver

4. Games To Go: 6 in 1 Magnetic Games

4. Lowe Alpine Horizon

4. Scholl

5. Deck of Cards

5. Skechers

6. Travel Guess Who

5. Antler Size Zero 6. Tripp Ultra Glide

7. Crossword Challenge

7. Gelert Wilderness

7. Ecco

8. PlayStation Portable

8. Tumi Alpha 26

8. Birkenstock

9. Rubix Cube

9. Vango Airtrek 25

9. Clarks

10. Pocket Chess

10. Samsonite Cosmolite

10. Lotus

6. Ugg

TOP 10

TRAVEL TIPS CHOOSING WHAT TO BRING ON HOLIDAY IS NEVER EASY. SO IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR SOMETHING TO PASS A LONG PLANE TRIP OR THE BEST FOOTWEAR FOR WALKING AROUND, LET LEAH JORDAN AND CONOR TOBIN GUIDE YOU WITH THE BEST TRAVEL TIPS IN TOWN COMPASS

EUROPEAN MUSIC FESTIVALS

OXEGENDEPRIVED

Tired of Oxegen and Electric Picnic? Fancy something new this summer? Then look no further. From Spain to Serbia, there’s no shortage of alternative music festivals to be found in Europe. Cormac Murtagh shines a spotlight on the pick of the bunch.

ummertime is almost upon us and with it comes the prospect of the usual music festivals taking place around the country. What better way to spend a midsummer weekend than in the !"#$%&'(")(*+,-.#+&/-/(#01+!(%2!+"&% /"13(%1('"0(4"!,(-&(#%11-(5"(6-7-*(+&('"06( favourite bands, all the while relaxing in 58-(2&-(10##-6(9-%58-63(!""*(/6+&,1(%5( the ready? At least that’s the way things would be in an ideal world. But as anyone who has braved the arduous conditions of a large Irish music festival, such as Oxegen, will tell you, the reality can often be quite dif ferent. Rain, muddy campsites and toilets, outrageously expensive alcohol, more rain – need I go on? So far, so bleak. But fret not – your festival experiences this summer need not be dictated by the temperamental Irish weather. Europe offers a wide range of alternative outdoor music festivals. And the tickets are relatively inexpensive, at least compared to Oxegen prices. From Belgium to Spain, there’s no short age of diverse music festivals to be found in Europe. And not only are they an exotic, exciting alternative, many of them can double as a holiday for moneyconscious travellers (and who isn’t one of those in these recessionary times?). Combine this 9+58(58-(!8-%$(4+:851("&("))-6()6"#(;0/:-5( carriers and you’re left with very few ex

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cuses not to take the plunge and give an alternative European music festival a try. So let Compass be your guide to some of the biggest music festivals that Europe has to offer, as we run through all the vital information you need on each one.

“Switzerland’s Paléo Festival Nyon is Europe’s secondbiggest openair music festival, outstripping the likes of Glastonbury and Rock Werchter” <8-(2615()-15+7%*(0&/-6(58-(1$"5*+:85( is as far away from Oxegen and other Irish events as you can imagine. The Benicàssim International Festival (July 1518) is a fourday mix of music, 2*#3()%18+"&(%&/(%65(1+50%5-/(+&(58-(10&&'( climes of Benicàssim, a port town near Valencia, Spain. In striking contrast to the dreary expe riences of most Irish festivals, the town of Benicàssim offers almost guaranteed sunshine for the duration of the festival and, to top things off, it’s located beside a rather enticing beach resort. If you can drag yourself away from the sand, the fes

tival itself starts late (around 8pm) in order to avoid the heat, and continues on into the wee small hours. The acts announced for this year so far include Kasabian, The Prodigy, Vampire Weekend and Temper Trap, among many others. As is the case with many of these music festivals, Benicàssim features a range of other activities to keep you enter tained should you get tired of the music, +&!*0/+&:(18"65(2*#1(%&/(-7-&(%65(+&15%* lations erected along the beach. And the best part of it all is that a fourday camp ing ticket is priced at only €175, which is pretty attractive when you consider all 58-(;-&-251(")(-&="'+&:(%()-15+7%*("&(58-( Mediterranean coast. Situated only an hour away from Valencia airport, Benicàssim is easily accessible from here by both bus %&/(6%+*(56%&1$"65(*+&,1>(?--(999>2;-62;> com for more information. Rock Werchter (July 14), a Belgian music festival located near the city of Brussels, is, as the name implies, focused *%6:-*'("&(#%="6(6"!,(%!51>(<8-(@ABA()-1 tival is set to include bigname bands such as Muse, Green Day, Pearl Jam, Arcade Fire and Them Crooked Vultures. Belgium’s *%6:-15(#01+!()-15+7%*3(C"!,(D-6!85-6(2615( started in 1974, and has since also grown to become one of Europe’s largest festivals, comparable to Glastonbury and others. A real heavy hitter in the music festival world, it regularly attracts some of the

PHOTO: Exit Festival

Paléo Festival Nyon, Switzerland Photo: Pierre Descombes

biggest names in contemporary rock, as 58+1('-%6E1(*+&-0$(%55-151>(?0)2!-(+5(5"(1%'3( your rock cravings will be well and truly sated at this event. But a word of warning before you book your tickets: prices for this year’s festival aren’t exactly cheap, with a fourday camping ticket coming in at %6"0&/(F@AA>(G&/(0&*+,-(1"#-(")(58-("58-6( festivals featured here, the location is a bit isolated, situated as it is in the small village of Werchter. But if it’s bigname rock acts you’re after, then look no further. Check out more details of this rock fest at www.rockwerchter.be. If the festivals featured so far seem too expensive for you, but you still want a fes tival comparable in size and scope to, say, Electric Picnic, then Serbia’s Exit Festival (July 811) may be the one for you. With fourday camping tickets at around €115, Exit remains an attractively priced alterna tive, considering its favourable size and reputation. And not only is it one of the cheapest festivals, it may also be one of the most picturesque. The festival takes place in the remarkable surroundings of the Petrovaradin Fortress, on the banks of the Danube, in Novi Sad, Serbia’s secondlargest city after the capi 5%*3(H-*:6%/->(I+615(15%65-/(+&(@AAA(;'(586--( university students, Exit has grown in both size and stature in a relatively short period of time, gaining a reputation for its focus on social issues along the way. It remains a refreshing alternative to many other overly commercial summer festivals. In terms of music, the festival has traditionally fea tured a varied mix of music, from rock and dance to hip hop and more. If you like the sound of Exit, go to eng.exitfest.org. For anyone fed up of the wearying com mercialisation of Oxegen and the like, the Roskilde Festival (July 14) in Denmark is an attractive alternative. Despite being one of Europe’s biggest music festivals, +5(+1(60&(%1(%(&"&.$6"25()-15+7%*3(9+58(58-( money earned going towards the devel opment of local music and culture. This '-%6E1()-15+7%*3(98+!8(+1($6+!-/(%5(F@@A()"6( a fourday camping ticket, will feature such crowdpleasers as Muse, Motörhead and

Benicàssim International Festival, Spain Photo: Pau Bellido

<8-#(J6"",-/(K0*506-1>(L)(58+1(4"%51('"06( boat, check out www.roskildefestival.com. Switzerland’s Paléo Festival Nyon (July @A.@MN(+1(O06"$-E1(1-!"&/.;+::-15("$-&. air music festival, outstripping the likes of Glastonbury and Rock Werchter, and runs for six days at the end of July. It takes place in the municipality of Nyon, Paléo and is easily accessed by train or bus from P-&-7%(%+6$"653(98+!8(+1("&*'(@M(,+*"#-56-1( away.

The crowd at Budapest’s Sziget Festival. Photo: Sziget Festival

“The Hungarian Sziget event has gained a favourable comparison to the Burning Man festival in America, partly because of its length but also due to its unique atmosphere” At the time of writing, the lineup for this year’s festival has yet to be announced ;05(%1(;-251(%&(-7-&5(")(58+1(1+Q-3('"0(!%&( expect a number of bigname acts to play over the duration of the festival. Tickets %6-(-R$-!5-/(5"(;-($6+!-/(%5(%6"0&/(F@AA(

and usually sell out quickly, so book early at www.yeah.paleo.ch. Last, but by no means least, is Buda pest’s Sziget Festival (August 916), which takes place on a large island – over BAA(8-!5%6-1(S(+&(58-(#+//*-(")(58-(T%&0;-( River. In a word, this festival is big. It is Europe’s largest openair music festival and regularly attracts huge crowds. Some UVA3AAA(9-6-(6-$"65-/(5"(8%7-(%55-&/-/( last year over the seven days it was on, %&/("7-6(MA($-6(!-&5(")(%55-&/--1(!%#-( from different countries in Europe. Another indication of its size is the fact that there %6-("7-6(B3AAA($-6)"6#%&!-1(-%!8('-%6>( Thankfully, the smallest thing about the festival is the camping ticket prices: tickets )"6(58-(9--,(%6-(=015(FBWA(+)(;"0:85(;-)"6-( 58-(-&/(")(G$6+*3(9+58($6+!-1(6+1+&:(5"(F@AA( thereafter. The music lineup for this year’s festi val has yet to be announced but you can expect a broad range of performances, ranging from renowned alternative and hardrock acts – the likes of The Killers, Iron Maiden and Bloc Party have featured in recent years – to dance, hip hop and more. However, music is but one facet of the appeal of this festival. During the summer months, Budapest’s weather is comparable to Spain, and Sziget has a 1-*-!5+"&(")(%!5+7+5+-1(5"(10+5(58-(2&-(!"&/+ 5+"&13(9+58(;0&:--(=0#$+&:3(19+##+&:(%&/( more available all over the island. Its at tractions are so varied that in recent years Sziget has been favourably compared to the Burning Man festival in America, partly because of its length but also due to its unique atmosphere. Given its convenient location, people attending Sziget can also come and go as they please, which allows for plenty of opportunities to explore the alluring city of Budapest. More information can be found at www.szigetfestival.com. So there you have it, six tempting alter natives to the mud, rain and overpriced booze that often seem to be features of the Irish music festival experience. This year, don’t stand for it – start looking for budget 4+:8513(%&/(56'("&-(")(O06"$-E1(#01+!( shindigs instead...

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Turning Japanese

Naritasan ShinshoJo Temple. Photo: Shutterstock

@2.%&/#-0&#(&+1?1,>&1,&0.%&/#6670%$&-7*7$*-&1-&,#01/%'*+4& /.%'=%$&0.',&1,&/%,0$'+&2#34#5&',)&*#0.&"'0-7)#&',)& A'-.19'&'$%&*$1-0+1,>&910.&/.%'=&$%-0'7$',0-&',)&+1?%+45& 1,%<=%,-1?%&*'$-B

"#$%&'((#$)'*+%&',)&+%--&.%/01/&0.',&/%,0$'+&2#34#5&0.%&/#6670%$&*%+0& !"#!$%&$'()*!$+!,#-$!$."#!/$*!-#$%0$/(#$#1.#$%&$/(#$2!3!0#-#$4!3)/!56$701-$8#,',& !*'4'91/3$%6':&;7$0.%$&%<=+#$'01#,5&0.#7>.5&$%?%'+-&'&=$%(%/07$%&0.'0&6'3%-& '&('-/1,'01,>&)%-01,'01#,&1,&10-%+(:

HondoJi Temple. Photo: Tanaka Juuyoh

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JAPAN

PHOTO: Shutterstock (Sam DCruz)

JAPAN

sk a travelsavvy friend to name their top three mustsee destina tions in Japan, and it’s a fairly safe bet that Chiba won’t make the list. But this oftenoverlooked prefec ture – it has just two entries in “The Rough Guide to Japan”– to the east of Tokyo makes an ideal, more walletfriendly alter native to the Japanese capital as a base for backpackers, and has a number of attrac tions off the main tourist track. Longtime Chiba resident Alex De Vile feels the area gets something of a raw deal: “I think the problem with so many guide books is they have to deliver the idea of a conspicuous spectacle or event to the readers – with Tokyo Disneyland [actually in Chiba] being a case in point. If it can’t be snapped in a picture or explained to relatives back at home in a cosy soundbite, it’s a harder sell.” The beauty of choosing Chiba as a base for exploring the Tokyo area is that you won’t have to make involved plans for getting there, as you’ll most likely arrive in Japan at Narita International Airport, in the north of the prefecture. I’d recommend basing yourself in the Matsudo/Kashiwa area, which is more easily accessible to central Tokyo, but it’s worth considering an overnight stay in the Narita area, either at the start or end of your trip, to allow a

halfday to take in the vast temple complex of Naritasan Shinshojo. Attracting over 10 million visitors a year, it’s on a much grander scale than the necessarily more compact temple complexes in Tokyo itself, !"#$%&'$()"#*+)",*'"-'#$.%!%*'.$/0$1!"2+ armed deities inside the 18thcentury pagoda are a rarity in Japanese Buddhist temples and worth the visit alone. From Narita Airport it’s about 90 minutes by train to Matsudo, which is only half an hour from Ueno station, a wellknown hub in central Tokyo. Neighbouring city Kashiwa is slightly further from the capital, 10 min utes from Matsudo on a direct train line, yet either would make an ideal base on the edge of Tokyo. What’s more, Kashiwa and Matsudo offer a more manageable intro duction to Japan than the often frenetic capital. Although both are sizeable cities by Irish standards – the larger Matsudo has a population of around 480,000 – they are much less daunting than Tokyo’s packed Shinjuku or Shibuya commercial areas and anything worth seeing in either city tends to be clustered around the train station. Both offer good, onestop shopping areas, particularly Kashiwa, which is known locally as ‘little Shibuya’ and boasts a similar up scale feel, albeit on a much smaller scale. Branches of upmarket department stores Takashimaya and Sogo both offer supris

ingly affordable gift shops for presents to take home. The cost of living in commuter suburbs such as these is noticeably cheaper than in central Tokyo. Both cities are bristling with -&'!3$4'.%!*4!"%.$5$./1'$6)%&$78'#+34)-'$ Nomi Tabe allyoucan eat deals –and lively, inexpensive bars, with the war ren of streets west of Matsudo station a particularly fruitful place for a bar crawl. The Cavern pub, about 10 minutes from Kashiwa station close to Kashiwa Shrine, is also worth an honourable mention. There’s !$-/9'4$-&!4:'$/"$%&'$74.%$#4)";<$=*%$%&'$ pub’s lovingly detailed kitsch interior and the song request forms on each table (as the name suggests, the playlist is Fab Four and solo releases only, though they do also have the Traveling Wilburys for a bit of a change) make it worth your while. The af fable DJ even speaks some English, though be warned – much of his vocabulary is Beatlesrelated. One of the advantages of a night out in either city is that you’re much more likely to meet local revellers than in Tokyo’s ritzier nightlife districts. Gaijin (‘foreign devils’, a term cheerfully worn as a badge of honour by many expats) are much less common in these commuter cities than in %&'$-!3)%!>$!"#$%&*.$!$#'7")%'$./*4-'$/0$ interest on a night out. You’ll get numerous

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CANADA

“

Toronto is one of the world’s most diverse cities. There’s Chinatown, Little Italy and Portugal Village. And, inevitably, some Irish pubs

PHOTOS: Tourism Toronto

The North Side Don’t fancy the States? Then head north of the border, to Toronto. It’s a diverse, contemporary and buzzing city, and is a great place to spend your summer, writes Andrew Cosgrave.

anging onto the edge of Lake On tario, Toronto is a melting pot of sun and smells, cultures and fun. It is not a place to visit alone; you won’t lose yourself in endless museums, majes tic cathedrals or ancient streets. But in the company of friends, there are good times to be had. I arrived in midsummer a few years ago. Stepping off the airport bus at Queen Street, you are hit by the kind of searing sunlight that makes you squint and sweat, and a whirlwind of sound and movement that takes !"#$%!$&#'(')&*$+,-*'$+$."/0$1)02-3$$ As you walk up Spadina Avenue, ruck sacked and jetlagged, the city snaps and crackles around you. It’s kinetic, this place. The trip up Spadina, toward the student housing which is available to rent during the summer, takes you through Chinatown. It’s a buzzing part of the city, with restaurants, &2"(&4$5&2$6+'7*-&$+/8$9."-2*&$&-+..&4$+/8$)&$ a long way from the sleepy airport I had left earlier in the day. My home from home was one of the age ing threestory townhouses set amidst the University of Toronto’s scattered schools. Basic, rough around the edges, and covered

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in foliage, these houses are relaxed and low key, comfortable in their surroundings. It’s a good area in which to base yourself, as it’s within walking distance of most places, and is also well serviced by streetcars (Toronto speak for trams), which have the sort of old fashioned style our Luas will never match. :2*$9)-!$)&$;#)-*$'*+&"/+%.*$,'"6$+$5 nancial point of view. Honest Ed’s on Bloor Street West, a Toronto institution, is great for all kinds of bargains. Accommodation wise, sharing a room with a friend – while not strictly allowed in some places – helps keeps the rent down. Eating out is cheap by Irish standards, and you can get weekly or monthly tickets for the excellent public trans port. But if you don’t organise employment before you leave home, work can be hard to come by. The night owl, meanwhile, is spoilt for choice. Like any big city, there are plenty of pubs and clubs to choose from, and conces sion nights with reducedrate drinks are *+&!$-"$5/83$$<-#8*/-&$=)..$+.=+!&$5/8$-2*)'$ favourites; usually whatever’s cheapest. There is little in the way of history in To ronto, at least to our European eyes. Even -2"#02$-2*'*$+'*$+$9"#(.*$",$5/*$6#&*#6&4$

they mostly tell the stories of other places. This city’s soul is out on the street. For this reason, I’d recommend that you steer clear of the tourist bus, and save your self a whopping C$30 in the process. You ="/>-$.*+'/$+/!-2)/0$-2+-$!"#$9+/>-$5/8$"#-$ on your own. I blagged a ticket through a ,')*/8$)/$-2*$-)97*-$",59*4$+/8$&-)..$,*.-$')((*8$ off. According to my tour guide, notable Toronto landmarks include some condomini ums, a park and a building site for some new condominiums. If you want to step back in time, then, Toronto might not be for you. It does not live in the past; there are few stories seeping ,'"6$)-&$=+..&3$?/&-*+84$!"#$=)..$5/8$!"#'&*.,$ in a thoroughly contemporary city, but this is no bad thing. Little history means little bag gage, and cultures converge here like in few other places; Toronto is one of the world’s most diverse cities. With 5.5 million people living in the Greater Toronto Area, the city is home to people from all corners of the globe. As well as Chinatown, there is Little Italy, Portugal Village, Little India and Greektown. And, inevitably, some Irish pubs. The locals pride themselves on welcoming people from all over the world, and as a result you feel

like you are in a place that is happening right now. Toronto is not looking back over its shoulder, or gazing ahead into the distance; it’s just having a good time. And, after my summer in the city, I can say that I did, too. So walk the streets and soak up the smells. Go to a Blue Jays baseball game at the Rog ers Centre. Visit Greektown during the Taste of the Danforth food festival. Take in some Brazilian Capoeira during one of Kensing ton Market’s Pedestrian Sundays, and try to 9"(!$)-$"/$-2*$8+/9*$1""'$.+-*'$-2+-$/)02-3$ Take a wander down Yonge Street, and call into the Eaton Centre mall (see page 30) or the Hockey Hall of Fame. Visit the CN Tower. Grab a latenight slice at Cora Pizza. These are just a couple of ways to pass your time, and I’ve elaborated on some of them – and some others – on the next page. Take them only as a rough guide, though, because this city is a blank canvas. It has no back story in which you must immerse your self; Toronto is yours to do with as you will. The memories I take from it are my own; they are linked to no landmarks, and mean little to anyone who isn’t part of them. But that’s okay; spend a summer in Toronto, and you’ll make your own memories, guaranteed.

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?a?6[&>bM@baJ&FNaXFO

PHOTO: Shutterstock

IRISH BITE INTO BIG APPLE AND BEYOND There’s more to Irish culture abroad than green pints and those stupid oversize leprechaun hats, as expatriates from Asia to America are proving, writes Rory Coen.

others to recreate a sense of home. C@%"&$.4-+,&1""5&-/&#&;-,&.+"&'.!&0%"& Irish community with all of the Saint U#0!-$5I/&1""5&/0*''&,.-+,&.+&K&0%"!"&-/&#& 7#!#3"&.+&6*+3#<B&67.!0/&O#<&.+&6#0*!3#<& #+3&0%"&'.22.1-+,&1""5"+3&0%"&60=&U#0!-$5I/& 6.$-"0<&%#G"&0%"-!&#++*#2&;#22BD&/#</& Blaithnaid.

“IRISH CULTURE IS AS ALIVE IN SINGAPORE OR THE NORTH BRONX AS IT IS IN YOUR OWN TOWN” On the opposite side of the word, in the V.!0%&N!.+QB&W#!0-+&XIW#22"<&%#/&;""+& %"27-+,&0%"&%.4"2"//&"G"!<&W.+3#<&+-,%0& '.!&.G"!&#&3"$#3"=&&X!-,-+#22<&'!.4&W#<.B&%"& -/&#&4"4;"!&.'&0%"&F-/2-+,&?!-/%&>.44*+-0<& >"+0"!B&1%-$%&%#/&;""+&%"27-+,&0.&-+0",!#0"& ?!-/%&"4-,!#+0/&-+0.&0%"-!&+"1&2-'"&-+&V"1& Y.!5&/-+$"&PZ::=&&[.1"G"!B&0%"<&#2/.&/""& 0%"-!&.!,#+-/#0-.+&#/&#+&.77.!0*+-0<&0.&,-G"&

/.4"0%-+,&;#$5&0.&#&$-0<&1%-$%&%#/&;""+&/.& 5-+3&0.&?!-/%&7".72"= CH"&4#5"&#;.*0&\A9&/#+31-$%"/&"G"!<& W.+3#<&+-,%0BD&/#-3&W#!0-+=&&CH"&,"0&2.0/& .'&%"27]&0%"&2#3-"/&%"27&0.&4#5"&0%"4&#+3& 0%"+&1"&,"0&0%"&<.*+,"!&.+"/&0.&%"27&*/& 3-/0!-;*0"&0%"4&0.&0%"&/%"20"!/&O.1+0.1+=D W#!0-+&-/&#&%#+3<4#+&#+3&2.G"/&0.&%"27& out at the Center in whatever way he can. C?&,.&3.1+&0.&0%"&>"+0"!&#24./0&"G"!<&3#<& to see what’s needed to be done. I am in 4<&P80%&<"#!&0%"!"B&#+3&?&"+^.<&"G"!<&4. 4"+0&?I4&3.1+&0%"!"=D @%"&>"+0"!&%#/&7!.,!"//"3&.+&'!.4&-0/& .!-,-+#2&!"4-0&-+&0%"&_:9/=&&@%"-!&4#-+&.;^"$ tive now is to promote and preserve Irish $*20*!"&#+3&0.&C5""7&0%"&0!#3-0-.+&#2-G"D=&& Traditional Irish music and dance are both 0#*,%0&;<&#$$!"3-0"3&0"#$%"!/&'.*!&+-,%0/&#& 1""5B&1%-2/0&0%"!"&#!"&#2/.&?!-/%&2#+,*#,"& classes for anyone who never had a chance to learn. ?!-/%&$*20*!"&-/&#/&#2-G"&-+&6-+,#7.!"&#+3& 0%"&V.!0%&N!.+Q&#/&-0&-/&-+&<.*!&.1+&0.1+& .!&G-22#,"=&&?0I/&0"/0#4"+0&0.&0%"&7!.#$0-G"& +#0*!"&.'&0%"/"&?!-/%&"Q7#0/&0%#0&1"&/""& /*$%&1"22&.!,#+-/"3&#+3&"+^.<#;2"&"G"+0/& 0%!.*,%.*0&0%"&"+0-!"&<"#!=&&?0&;!-+,/&0.& 4-+3&#&7.7*2#!&/#<-+,&.'0"+&!"$.*+0"3&-+& 7*;/B&0.1+/&#+3&G-22#,"/&#$!.//&?!"2#+3`& CH%"+&0%"&%"#!0&-/&1-22-+,B&0%"&;.3<&1-22& '.22.1=D For more info, visit these websites: http://www.aislingcenter.org http://www.gaeliclions.com

PHOTOS: Peter Marney

hey say home is where the heart is. This can be seen in the determina tion of the Irish abroad to celebrate their identity. The Irish brand is unique and popular, but what all these people share is a common purpose; a belief that Ireland and what it represents can !"#$%&'#!()*+,&!",-.+/&.'&0%"&1.!23&0.&4#5"& a difference in peoples’ lives. Blaithnaid, from Lucan, was relocated to 6-+,#7.!"&-+&899:&;<&%"!&"472.<"!=&&6%"& was invited to join the Gaelic Lions GAA >2*;&;<&/.4"&?!-/%&$.22"#,*"/&#+3&/%"&+.1& /""/&0%"&$2*;&#/&#+&-+0",!#2&7#!0&.'&%"!&2-'"=&& @%"!"&#!"&8A9&4"4;"!/&-+$2*3-+,&$%-23!"+B& 1%.&#!"&+-$5+#4"3&C$*;/DB&#+3&0.,"0%"!& 0%"<&'.!4&0%"&2#!,"/0&EFF&>2*;&-+&F/-#=&&& C@%"&$2*;&-/&G"!<&#$0-G"&/.$-#22<&#+3&-/&#& ,!"#0&1#<&0.&4""0&+"1&7".72"BD&/%"&/#-3=& CH"&0!#-+&0%!""&0-4"/&#&1""5&3*!-+,&0%"& season, which runs from April to October and it all culminates at the Asian Gaelic Games which is held in a different city in F/-#&"#$%&<"#!B&#+3&-0I/&#&,!"#0&1""5"+3I/& entertainment. CJ#$%&<"#!&0%"&$2*;&0.*!/&.0%"!&$-0-"/&#/& 1"22&K&1-0%&0"#4/&%#G-+,&0!#G"22"3&0.&L*#2#& M*47*!B&@.5<.B&N#+,5.5&#+3&O*;#-&-+&0%"& 2#/0&P8&4.+0%/B&#+3&0%"&+"Q0&0.*!&-/&0.&R# 5#!0#&'.!&0%"&6.*0%&J#/0&F/-#+&E#4"/=&&@%"& 5"<&0.&EFF&-+&F/-#&-/&3"S+-0"2<&0%"&$!#-$&K& #+3&1"&$"!0#-+2<&4#+#,"&0%#0TD F22&.'&0%-/&0#5"/&#&%*,"&G.2*+0#!<&$.4 mitment from those involved. But this is !"7#<"3&;<&0%"&/"+/"&0%#0&0%"<&#!"&%"27-+,&

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!"#$%&'()*%+#%,)*-./0+#/%123%4"#$%5"606)7%+#%8"'9)/:3%;2#6<-=6">/0?@%)%A#"9:A.:'%<")B'%./%A-.<-% 7#6%*+)7%#/%+-'%<#6<-%#4%)%0'/'"#6*%9#<)9%A-#%A.99%*-#A%7#6%)"#6/:%+-'."%<.+7%@%$)C'*%+-'%A#"9:% *''$%9.C'%)%9#<)9%/'.0-D#6"-##:E%Sara Marilungo >/:*%#6+%-#A%+-.*%)FF)"'/+97%$):<)F%*<-'$'% )<+6)997%A#"C*E

),056#'",!#46.)<,/#U.&1,<.=),#"05,# 2)"!,^#HU&!#!6,#!)&,#!).:,<<,)/#.),#!6,%# 26"#1,'.)!]C")#1,'.)!=09I/#/.3,Z#2=!6# 6,.)!/#<=96!#./#;.<<""0/B]+6,%#0,:,)#/2,):,# ()"*#!6,=)#1,/!=0=,/B]7.%=09#5"0!=0&"&/<%B# 2=!6"&!#30"2=09#26%^#_?,!#&/#9"#"0\L#F(# U.&1,<.=),#2,),#.<=:,#!"1.%B#6,#2"&<1# ')";.;<%#6.:,#.''),5=.!,1#!6,#/'=)=!#"(# 4"&567&)809># C")9,!#!).:,<#9&=1,/B#'"/6#6"!,</#=0#!6,#5=!%# centre and dinners in the “best traditional ),/!.&).0!#=0#!"20L>#4"&567&)809#=/#.<<#.;"&!# ',"'<,>#+6=/#2")<12=1,#0,!2")3B#;./,1#"0# *&!&.<#!)&/!B#=/#*.1,#&'#"(#',"'<,#26"# "((,)#!6,=)#5"&56,/#!"#"!6,)#*,*;,)/B#.01# /6"2#9&,/!/#!6,=)#5=!%#.01#<"5.<#5&<!&),># Connections are made by sharing personal ')"8<,/#"0<=0,#.!#!6,#4"&567&)809#6&;B# 222>5"&56/&)809>")9>#+6,#')"D,5!#2./# /!.)!,1#=0#PKKY#;%#4./,%#C,0!"0B#.#%"&09# ')"9).**,)#()"*#E,2#`.*'/6=),B#.01# since then it has become a worldwide 5).@,>#a55")1=09#!"#/!.!=/!=5/#"0#!6,#/=!,B# !6=/#*,<!=09#'"!#"(#',"'<,#6./#.<*"/!#P# million members worldwide. Ireland has its (.=)#/6.),#"(#4"&567&)(,)/#!""B#2=!6#bBKKK# *,*;,)/#=0#!6,#O&;<=0#9)"&'#.<"0,> 4"&567&)809#1",/0I!#*,.0B#./#=/#"(!,0# ;,<=,:,1B#.#56,.'#2.%#!"#!).:,<^#H7"*,!=*,/# F#),5,=:,#),V&,/!/#()"*#:,)%#%"&09#',"'<,# 26"#D&/!#1"0I!#2.0!#!"#'.%#(")#.#6"!,<BL# /.%/#S=5.,<.#c.<<"@@=B#()"*#F!.<%>#HN0#!6,# 5"0!).)%B#F#!).:,<#./#=(#FI*#9"=09#!"#:=/=!#.# ()=,01>L##F!#*,.0/#9"=09#;,%"01#!6,#&/&.<# !"&)=/!#,-',)=,05,#"(#:=/=!=09#.#'<.5,#.01#

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really seeing a destination as the locals see =!>#S,*;,)/#;)=09#6"*,#9),.!#*,*")=,/B#;&!# also lifelong friendships. S"/!#*,*;,)/#3,,'#=0#!"&56#2=!6#!6,# people they meet, sharing the sensation "(#6.:=09#5"0!)=;&!,1#!"#*.3=09#!6,#2")<1# a little smaller and friendlier. “While I was in [Washington] DC,” says Jerrod Ward, 30"20#./#S&1B#()"*#+,-./B#H2,#2,),#.!#.#

G,'?H'%D''/% hosting 100 F'#F9'%)%$#/+-3% some of them 2#6<-=6">/0% )::.<+*%9.C'%$'I /!),,!#(,/!=:.<#2.!56=09#.#;.01#'<.%#26,0# /"*,"0,#5.*,#&'#!"#*,#.01#./3,1#=(#F#2./# ()"*#`"&/!"0>#`,#2./#.#4"&567&)(,)#FI1#6.1# <&056#2=!6#"0,#1.%#,=96!#*"0!6/#,.)<=,)#"0# 6=/#!)='#!"#`"&/!"0>#F!I/#.#/*.<<#2")<1#.01# 4"&567&)809#=/#6,<'=09#!"#*.3,#=!#,:,0# /*.<<,)\L C")#*.0%B#4"&567&)809#=/#.#2.%#!"# &01,)/!.01#.#1=((,),0!#5&<!&),#()"*#!6,# ',"'<,#26"#!)&<%#),'),/,0!#=!B#;%#/6.)=09# .#/*.<<#'")!="0#"(#!6,=)#<=:,/#=0#!6,=)#"20#

6"&/,/>#H+"#801#"&!#6"2#!6,/,#',"'<,#<=:,# .01#!6=03B#=0#!6,#,01#=/#.#5&<!&).<#,-56.09,BL# /.%/#S=5.,<.>#HF#2"&<1#6.:,#0,:,)#1=/5":,),1# !6,#/,5),!/#"(#!6,#2=0,#*.0&(.5!&)=09# ')"5,//#=(#F#6.10I!#*,!#.0#a&/!).<=.0#5""3#=0# 7'.=0B#")#&01,)/!""1#6"*,"'.!6%#=(#F#6.10I!# /'"3,0#!"#a*.)56B#.#72=//#9=)<#F#6"/!,1>L## A.!)=5="#X%*,)B#.#d)&9&.%.0B#/!.%,1#=0# F),<.01#(")#("&)#1.%/#=0#a')=<#PKKeB#6"/!,1#;%# X")%>#`,#2./#6"/!=09#("&)#"!6,)#',"'<,#()"*# the US and Canada at the same time. “He is "0,#"(#!6,#;,/!#',"'<,#FI:,#,:,)#*,!#26=<,# !).:,<<=09>##+6=/#9&%#<,0!#&/#6=/#5.)#2=!6#.# cA7>#+6.!#6.1#0,:,)#6.'',0,1#!"#*,#;,("),># `,#/6"2,1#&/#=0!,),/!=09#'<.5,/#0,.)#O&;<=0# .01#2./#,-!),*,<%#=0!,),/!,1#=0#*%#5"&0!)%# .01#5&<!&),BL#/.%/#A.!)=5=">#H`,#.</"#/6"2,1# *,#/,:,).<#;""3/#.;"&!#F)=/6#5&<!&),#.01# 6=/!")%>#`,#9.:,#&/#*.'/B#*";=<,#'6"0,/# .01#'<,0!%#"(#9""1#.1:=5,>L Q:,)%#*,*;,)#6./#.#/!")%#!"#!,<<>#S.0%# 5<.=*#!6,=)#4"&567&)809#.1:,0!&),/#.),# .*"09/!#!6,#;,/!#,-',)=,05,/#"(#!6,=)#<=:,/># a01#/"*,#"(#!6,=)#/!")=,/#5,)!.=0<%#*.3,#!6,# 2")<1#<""3#<=3,#.#/*.<<#0,=96;"&)6""1> S&1#2./#;.53'.53=09#()"*#A).9&,#!6)"&96# c,)*.0%#.01#"0#!"#!6,#E,!6,)<.01/>#`=/# )"&!,#!""3#6=*#!6)"&96#7!&!!9.)!B#c,)*.0%B# 26,),#6,#2.0!,1#!"#9"#!"#!6,#fCU#7!&!!9.)!# [#a)/,0.<#(""!;.<<#*.!56>#`=/#4"&567&)809# 6"/!/#=0#7!&99.)!#2,),#7.01).#.01#G,.0B#.# 5"&'<,>#HF!#D&/!#6.'',0,1#!6.!#*%#6"/!#6.1# /,./"0#!=53,!/#(")#!6,#7!&!!9.)!#!,.*#/"#!6,%# 2,),#9"=09#!"#!6,#9.*,#./#2,<<>#+6,%#9.:,# *,#.#D,)/,%#!"#2,.)#!"#!6,#9.*,#.01#!.&96!

PHOTO: Tourism Toronto

PHOTO: Dreamstime (Yanik Chauvin)

PHOTO: Shutterstock

Couch to Couch

PHOTO: Shutterstock

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PHOTO: Shutterstock

Clockwise from top left: the beach at Nice; a park in Manheim; Nice harbour; Niagra Falls. me all of the chants to yell,” he says. “That was almost two years ago and we still stay in contact. They came to the US last September, to Washington DC, and I decided !"#$%#&'#()"*#+,-./#!"#/',01#.#2,,3,01# with them there.”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meetings and trips. “I remember when I 8)/!#5.*,#!"#O&;<=0#=0#PKKRBL#/.%/#S.&)=@="# A=55=0=B#()"*#F!.<%>#HS%/,<(#.01#.0"!6,)# member, Rory, began to organise meetings. +6,),#2,),#:,)%#(,2#',"'<,#.!#!6,#;,9=00=09>#

At the third meeting there were no more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

GJ#6%-)H'%+#%D'% ):)F+)D9'E%;KH'"% +-'%F)*+%+-"''% 7')"*3%8?H'%$'+% #H'"%L3MNN% F'#F9'?I relationships.” He remembers two girls who 6=!566=3,1#!"#6=/#6"&/,#=0#X"!!,)1.*>#+6,%# ).09#!6,#1"");,<<#.!#Y.*#.01#<,(!#!6,#0,-!# 1.%#2=!6"&!#,:,0#/.%=09#9""1;%,>#H+6,/,# !6=09/#6.'',0B#;&!#=!I/#).),BL#6,#5"**,0!/># S.&)=@="#),.<=/,1#6,#1=10I!#<=3,#!"#6"/!# /!&1,0!/>#HF#&/,1#!"#9"#"&!#2=!6#!6,*#.!#

night and sometimes they didn’t want to pay (")#;&/,/#")#!.-=/#!"#9"#6"*,Z#F#"(!,0#6.1#!"# 2")3#!6,#1.%#.(!,)>#F#6.1#1=((,),0!#0,,1/BL#6,# says. E"0,!6,<,//B#4"&567&)809#5.0#;,# .1:.0!.9,"&/#(")#.#0&*;,)#"(#),./"0/>#C")# some, it is a springboard to begin a new <=(,#=0#.#1=((,),0!#5"&0!)%B#")#!"#9,!#/"*,# ').5!=5.<#.1:=5,>#HF!#=/0I!#,./%#26,0#%"&# .))=:,#=0#.#0,2#'<.5,#.01#%"&#1"0I!#30"2# .0%;"1%>#M=!6#4"&567&)809#F#;,9.0#!"#*,,!# ',"'<,#[#&/&.<<%#"',0#*=01,1#[#.01#*.3,# ()=,01/BL#/.%/#S=5.,<.>#HS%#6"&/,#=0#7'.=0# 2./#.<2.%/#5)"21,1#2=!6#Q)./*&/#/!&1,0!/# 26"#<""3,1#(")#6,<'#801=09#.#)""*#!"#),0!B# .01#F#&/,1#!"#!,<<#!6,*#26,),#!6,#56,.',/!# rooms were or which part of the city was safest.” +6,),#.),#.</"#',"'<,#26"#&/,# 4"&567&)809#!"#),/,.)56#(")#!6,=)#9).1&.!="0# !6,/=/B#")#(")#D";#=0!,):=,2/>#HN0,#"(#*%# ;,/!#()=,01/#!"<1#*,#.;"&!#47#D&/!#;,("),# 6,#9"!#*.))=,1#.01#!).:,<<,1#!6,#2")<1#(")# 10 months on their honeymoon – most of it 4"&567&)809>#7=05,#!6,0B#FI:,#;,,0#.<<#.;"&!# =!BL#/.%/#S&1> F!#=/0I!#/&)')=/=09#!6.!#/"#*.0%#',"'<,# share this philosophy of hospitality. 4"&567&)809#=/#*"),#!6.0#D&/!##.0"!6,)#2.%# "(#!).:,<<=09#[#=!I/#!6,#D&*'=09W"((#'"=0!#(")# .#6"/!#"(#9),.!#*,*")=,/#.01#/,),01='=!"&/# ,05"&0!,)/>#M,I<<#<,.:,#!6,#80.<#2")1#!"# U.&1,<.=),>#HN#*.):,<<"&/#!).:,<<,)/\#M6.!# 9<")="&/#/!")=,/]M,#),.1#=0#%"&)#,%,/#./# 1,,'#./#!6,#/,./>>>#+,<<#&/B#26.!#6.:,#%"&# seen?”

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COUNTRY LIVING PHOTO: Shutterstock

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Getting Social Security Numbers has long been a problem for J1ers, but most country clubs take care of this

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-0'6-!1')%-)>%'-$'('YJ'<"!(9'12%'!1-03' -/'12%'!:66%0'1%$&!'1-'.%'Z:"1%' !"6">(04'H00"<%'"$'12%'Q(6)1-$!'-0' D($1:*=%19'#%1'(',-.'"$'('.(09'!2(0%'(' 17-G.%&'()(016%$1'7"12'(.-:1'JC'-12%0')%- ple and get ripped off by the landlord. If you (0%'>:*=3'3-:'6"#21'2(<%'('6(110%!!'1-'!>%%)' -$4'F2%'.(0'7-$@1')(3'3-:'6:*2'['6"$"6:6' 7(#%')0-.(.>34'\2%$'3-:'*-6%'2-6%'3-:@>>' !(3'3-:'2(&'('#0%(1'1"6%9'.:1'&"&'3-:'0%(>>3]' E%(0!'>(1%09'72%$'3-:'>--='.(*='-$'3-:0'10")9' 3-:@>>'12"$='(.-:1'12%'#--&'1"6%!'/-0'!:0%'.:1' every once in a while you’ll be confronted by ($-12%0'12-:#21?'7(!'5'6(&'-0'72(1]' It doesn’t have to be like that. There is an alternative. It’s a place where food and (**-66-&(1"-$'(0%')("&'/-09'3-:'6"#21'2(<%' 12%':!%'-/'('*(0'/-0'12%'!:66%09'3-:0'S-*"(>' Security card will be taken care of, and you’ll be able to cash your cheques on site. Hell, 3-:'6(3'%<%$'.%'(.>%'1-'103'1-'!(<%'('/%7' quid. H$&'&"&'5'6%$1"-$'3-:'*-:>&'2(<%'(**%!!' 1-'(')-->9'1%$$"!'*-:01!9'('#369'/0%%'"$1%0$%1' ($&'('#->/'*-:0!%]'H>>'12"!'72">%'!1">>'.%"$#' able to get up to all the antics you’d be get ting up to if you were in that twobed apart 6%$1'"$'12%'Q(6)1-$!]'F2%0%'(0%'7-0!%' 7(3!'1-'!)%$&'('!:66%04' S:66%0'"$'('*-:$103'*>:.'"!'-$%'-/'12%' 6-!1':$&%0:!%&'(<%$:%!'1-'%6)>-36%$1' for Irish students on the J1. Clubs are dot 1%&'(*0-!!'H6%0"*(9')(3'7%>>'($&')0-<"&%' %8*%>>%$1'/(*">"1"%!4'E%!9'3-:'7-0='2(0&9'.:1' you play harder. It’s a great experience, and 3-:@&'.%'*0(^3'1-'6"!!'-:1'-$'"14

It was only by chance that we ended up "$'('*-:$103'*>:.4''H!'"!'12%'7(3'7"12'6-!1' of these things, a friend of a friend knew !-6%-$%'72-'2(&'7-0=%&'"$'('*-:$103'*>:.' /-0'12%'!:66%04'51'!-:$&%&'>"=%'('#--&'&%(>4' \%'#-1'('>"!1'-/'(!'6($3'*-:$103'*>:.!'"$' D%7'E-0='S1(1%'(!'7%'*-:>&'+$&9'12%$'!%$1' -:0'0_!:6_!'1-'(>>'-/'12%64'\%'#-1'120%%'0% plies out of around 25 applications. One was /0-6'('*>:.'$%(0'S3-!!%1'-$'`-$#'5!>($&4'\%' signed up. 5/'3-:'2(<%$@1'.%%$'1-'D%7'E-0=9'%<%03 thing you’ve read about the city is true. Eve rything there is bigger than anywhere else; everything is louder than everywhere else. S1($&'"$'F"6%!'SZ:(0%'(1'($3'1"6%'($&'"1'0% ally does feel like the centre of the world. 51'"!'(.-:1'('aCG6"$:1%'10("$'0"&%'/0-6' Penn Station in Manhattan to Syosset and 12%$'('aG6"$:1%'10")'"$'('*(.'1-'12%'*>:.4'F2%' Q(6)1-$!'(0%'+<%'-0'!"8'2-:0!'(7(34'\2%$' 3-:@0%'-:1'12%0%9'"1@!'"6)-!!".>%'1-'!)%$&' 6:*2'1"6%'"$'12%'*"13'&:0"$#'12%'!:66%04' But by working so close to the city, we were able to do all the sightseeing throughout the !:66%0'($&'12%$'!)%$&'S%)1%6.%0'10(<%> >"$#'/:012%0'(+%>&'.%/-0%'*-6"$#'2-6%4 `"=%'6-!1'*-:$103'*>:.!9'-:0'*>:.'7(!'(' private one. The location and facilities were just stunning. A long driveway with the golf course on either side opened up to a large car park with the clubhouse on the left, and the tennis courts and pool on the right. We stayed in the pool house, along with English, Australian, French, and two other Irish workers. Most clubs take on foreign

PQRFRS?'S2:11%0!1-*='Tf0(&'5$#0(6U

Heading off on a J1 summer? The thought of working on a country club may sound quiet and even boring, but, as Peter Flanagan!"#$%!&'()!(*+!(,'(*!-%!.'-(+!(*+!&//&%-(+0

pretty easy to fall out of bed and roll into the greens keepers’ shed. The job was fairly straightforward. When I arrived in I’d be as !"#$%&'('!)%*"+*',-.'/-0'12%'&(34'51'6"#21'.%' 7%%&"$#'12%'1%%'.-8%!9'"1'6"#21'.%'*:11"$#' &"//%0%$1')(01!'-/'12%'*-:0!%4';-0'!-6%-$%' who didn’t know the difference between a ):11%0'($&'('&0"<%09'"1'1--='6%'('>"11>%'72">%' to get the hang of golf etiquette. A word -/'(&<"*%?'&-$@1'!1(01'('>(7$6-7%0'72%$' !-6%-$%'"!'(.-:1'1-')>(3'12%"0'1%%'!2-1'-<%0' water. The difference between working as a greens keeper and a waiter in a country club could not be greater. Life working on the course involved driving a John Deere truck, 7"12'('0(=%'($&'('>(7$6-7%0'"$'12%'.(*=4'

51@!'6($:(>'7-0='72"*2'"!')0%113'6($(#% (.>%'(1'A(69'.:1'"!'>%!!'!-'(1'$--$'72%$'12%' 1%6)%0(1:0%'"!':)'"$'12%'BC!4 5$'12%'!:66%09'D%7'E-0='.%*-6%!'(' furnace. The heat on its own is bad enough .:1'(&&'12%'2:6"&"13'($&'"1'.%*-6%!'('1-:#2' )0-)-!"1"-$4'D%<%012%>%!!9'3-:'&-'#%1':!%&' to it. F2%'*>:.2-:!%'7(!'%!!%$1"(>>3'('+<%G!1(0' 2-1%>'7"12-:1'12%'.%&0--6!4'H'!7%%)"$#' 6(0.>%'!1("0*(!%'#0%%1%&'6%6.%0!'(!'12%3' %$1%0%&4'H'.(09'#0">>'0--69'&"$"$#'0--69' <%0($&(9'*(0&!'0--6'($&'#36'7%0%'(>>'(<("> (.>%'1-'12%'6%6.%0!4'F2"!'"!'6-0%'-0'>%!!' standard for country clubs in the US. I:0"$#'12%'!:66%0'"1'"!'$-1':$:!:(>'/-0' 6%6.%0!'1-'(00"<%'(1'('*>:.'(1'A(6'($&'

>%(<%'(1'JJ'-0'JK'12(1'$"#214'L%6.%0!'*-:>&' 2(<%'.0%(=/(!1'"$'12%'#0">>'0--69'12%$'#-')>(3' 18 holes, have lunch on the veranda, play ($-12%0'JM'-0'#-'1-'12%'#369')>(3'*(0&!'/-0'(' few hours, then have dinner that night. H!'"$'6-!1'*-:$103'*>:.!9'12%'6%6.%0!' didn’t pay for anything in cash. They would sign for everything and then would be billed (1'12%'%$&'-/'12%'6-$124'F2"!'6%($!'$-'1")!9' .:1'3-:'0%(>>3'&-$@1'$%%&'12%64 L%%1"$#'12%'6%6.%0!'7(!'($'%8)%0"%$*%9' to say the least. The joining fee and annual subscription for clubs on Long Island tend 1-'.%'"$'12%'6"&G+<%G+#:0%!'0($#%'!-'%<%03' 6%6.%0'7(!'('N2"#2G$%1G7-012'"$&"<"&:(>O9' (!'12%'.($=!'>"=%'1-'*(>>'12%64'L-!1'-/'12%6' were leaders in business – whether it was

!1(//'/-0'12%'!:66%04'F2"!'7(!'*%01("$>3'$-1' ('17-G.%&'()(016%$1'7"12'('6(110%!!'-$'12%' b--0?'.:$='.%&!c'('>(0#%9'*>%($9'.(120--6c' and a spacious living area with cable TV, free "$1%0$%1'(**%!!'($&'(')(3)2-$%'6%($1'12(1' 7%'7-:>&'.%'>"<"$#'"$'>:8:03'/-0'12%'!:66%04' We also had the use of a Chrysler people carrier. We had all gone over expecting to be wait ers but once we arrived I was told I would be a greens keeper. The waiters (everyone %>!%'"$'12%'2-:!%U'7-:>&'7-0='>:$*2'/0-6' JC(6'1-'d)69'($&'12%$'&"$$%0'/0-6'A)6'-$4' 5'7-:>&'!1(01'(1'A(69'+$"!2'(1'e)6'($&'12%$' work dinner if required. R=(39'A(6'6(3'!-:$&'>"=%'($':$#-&>3'2-:0' to start work every day, but in truth it was

COMPASS

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“Summer in a country club is one of the most under used avenues to employment for Irish students on the J1” COMPASS

DOWN Hill

AUSTRALIA

DOWN Under

Many travellers head Down Under every year in search of sun and sand, but few !"!#$%&'$()!$*&+,- Orna Ballout gives you our guide to an Australian adventure with a './/!#!&0!-

AUSTRALIA

Images (clockwise from opposite): Thredbo has some of the most breathtaking views that Australia !"#$%&$&''()*$"$#+,()$,-$'.//$0,1!%$2&3-$4!)(25&$ mountatin; Thredbo after dark; people working in Thredbo get free access to the slopes; instructors at Thredbo offer free skiing lessons to staff. bar staff, or more physical roles, like lift op erators. If you go for the latter, make sure you’re well prepared with an abundance of warm clothing, as it gets pretty cold! If you do secure a job in the resort, Thredbo will set you up with staff accom modation so you don’t have the hassle of worrying about where to stay. But take note, this is usually in a small village called Jindabyne, which is a 25minute drive from the resort. You’ll have to bring your own duvet, sheets and towels but you can easily pick these up from the local supermarket. Apart from these items, the apartments come fully furnished with everything you need to keep you going through the winter months. A real highlight of working in the resort is the free season pass given to staff, allowing you full access to the slopes; this usually costs AU$1,400 so you’re already saving mega bucks. Another incentive is the oppor tunity to take free skiing or snowboarding lessons provided by Thredbo instructors. You’d be well advised to get your own set of wheels, as it makes commuting a lot easier. But fear not – if you can’t drive or don’t have a car you can always try car pooling (sharing lifts with people). Work

colleagues are friendly and obliging – as long as you give the designated driver some petrol money or buy them a drink in the pub that evening! Be very careful if you’re driving through the mountains. The roads are icy so you really should buy a set of snow chains to keep in the boot of your car, in case of an emergency. They are reasonably priced; we picked up a set for $100.

!A highlight for staff is a free season pass, which usually costs AU$1,400” Another thing to be very aware of while driving is the unexpected danger of wander ing wombats and kangaroos. They have a tendency to wander out aimlessly in front of passing vehicles. As a result, wildlife fatalities in the mountains are a common occurrence. Be alert, and ready to brake for a bouncing kangaroo. Winter in Thredbo is very cold so be well prepared and pack plenty of woollies.

If you’re travelling to Australia through Thailand, take the opportunity to avail of the bargains and cheap clothing that the Southeast Asian country has to offer. Food in the mountains is reason ably priced, and the local supermarket in Jindabyne (Coles) is great for students on a shoestring. A couple of the local restaurants also offer specials throughout the week. A juicy slab of Aussie beef, homemade chips and a beer costs a mere $8. Nightlife is what you’d expect – extreme ly cold, but lots of fun. Jindabyne is the favoured spot for young travellers. It has a few hip bars and a nightclub. The dress code is casual, but some brave ladies bare the arctic conditions and go all out in minis and heels. A warning – don’t get drunk and think it’s a good idea to go tobogganing. In fact, tobogganing is banned from most of the resorts because it’s so dangerous and re quires a lot of skill. So, good luck young travellers! Take my advice and embark on the Thredbo work ing holiday, the ultimate alternative Aussie experience. Stay safe and keep in touch with your family and friends back home and enjoy your time Down Under.

t is home to the kangaroo, koala bear and a host of celebrities, such as Hugh Jack !"#$%&'()*+%,'-!"#%"#-%./00+**%12)3+4%56%'0%07#)#7!)/0%3'68%9)#-'%:+"(8$%0/2;#<% and “throwing shrimps on the Barbie”. You may have already guessed the location, but for those of you still in the dark, it’s Australia, and life Down Under is full of surprises. Oz has a lot more to offer than you’d expect. So whether you’re venturing away for three months, or jetting off for a year of global travel, why not try something a little dif ferent and embark on an alternative Aussie experience? Unknown to many, the mysterious, mountainous area called Kosciuszko National Park '0%"%0(+#'(%0'=>8)/2%-2'?+%@2)!%A7-#+74%B+2+$%7)/%3'**%;#-%68+%!)06%:2+"686"C'#<%?'+30% the country has to offer. Not only will you witness bewildering beauty, you’ll discover that this park is host to some fantastic ski and snowboarding resorts. Yes, it snows in Australia between June and September! Back in 2008, I did this trip myself and worked for three months in Thredbo ski resort in the Snowy Mountains, New South Wales. If you’re looking for a holiday with a differ ence, this is the place. The views are amazing, the locals are friendly and there are plenty of other young travellers, all there with the same idea of perfecting their skiing or snow boarding skills, having the craic and making new friends. If skiing isn’t for you, you can still work in the snow resort during the winter months, then head to Sydney for the summer to enjoy the surf and sun, and get the best of both worlds. My trip was very easy to organise. It’s a real bonus to have job security before you even "22'?+4%D82+-:)%'0%?+27%E+=':*+$%"#-%68+%2+0)26%()#-/(60%6+*+F8)#+%'#6+2?'+30%3'68%"#7)#+% interested in working there. There are lots of different jobs on offer, from receptionists to

COMPASS

HOLIDAY HORROR STORIES

Pauric Lenehan

Mark Watters

Mairead Mahony

Angela Burns

Eoin Slowey

Ellen Moran

makes you stronger Photos: Thomas McGraw Lewis; Deirdre Gilhawley; Fiona Gilhawley

What doesn’t kill you

HOLIDAY HORROR STORIES

Heading off overseas can be the adventure of a lifetime. But as you pack up your sun cream and shorts, don’t expect everything on your trip to be a walk on the beach. Don’t worry, though, as hiccups often provide the best holiday stories. Deirdre Gilhawley hears from some intrepid travellers who survived the trials and tribulations of their foreign escapades, and still had fun along the way.

very trip abroad has its challenges, but if you tackle them head on they can end up being the most memo rable and hilarious part of your time away. And let’s face it – if you can share a fourbedroom house with 42 people, live with a cockroach called Cormac or sleep overnight at a strange railway station, nothing will ever faze you again once you get home! !"#$#%&'()*+,-.",/-&"#*0$1)22)03#4.'/.(# suitable digs – preferably not in a part of town that taxi drivers won’t go to – is usu $225#*6)#40"*#7$8-0#,6$22).()#5-&#.))'#*-# overcome. Be prepared to get used to ‘al ternative’ Big Brotherstyle living arrange ments in which you have zero personal privacy, and the usually simple task of getting to the bathroom may involve step ping over the sleeping bodies of several other ‘housemates’. When Pauric Lenehan decided to head to the Hamptons in America on a J1 visa he had no idea he would end up living in a house that became a hub for every Irish student in the surrounding area: “Luckily, my friend Paul had organised a house before I arrived over. When I got there, I realised that this would be no -0'/.$05#"&77)09#:#-;).)'#*6)#'--0#*-#4.'# that masses of backpackers had accumu lated there, as Paul had issued an open invitation to any Irish students around to stay with us until they found accommoda tion themselves. We Irish have to stick together, after all – as Tommy Tiernan once said about us, “we wander round the world, sleeping in cement mixers, clutching

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Clockwise from top: Australian beach huts, Melbourne at night, the heart of Melbourne Memorial Gardens a piece of paper with a phone number on it, and not much else, it’s a great life!” <=5#40"*#>))?#*6)0)3#:#,-&.*)'#@A#;)-;2)# staying in our fourbedroom house. After that, we averaged around 20 people a day for the rest of the summer. We had what we called a ‘roll on, roll off’ system where we all took turns having the precious com fort of a bed, spending the rest of the time on airbeds, couches or cushions. “It was pretty crazy but I wouldn’t have changed it for the world. There was always someone to talk to, always someone to go

“There were 42 in the house. It was pretty crazy, but I wouldn’t have changed it for the world” 8-%#6&.*/.(#>/*6#$.'3#7-0)#/7;-0*$.*253# always someone to go out with. Plus a lot of us remain in contact and are still friends to this day.” Mark Watters discovered the ‘delights’ -B#"C&))D/.(#41)#;)-;2)#E#6/7")2B#$.'#6/"# four friends – into a onebedroom apart ment on his J1 trip to Virginia Beach, Virginia, America: “My friends and I chose Virginia Beach as our destination in the hope of avoiding hoards of other Irish students and having a ‘genuine’ American experience, but we ended up living next door to a large group

of Corkonians, who we spent most of our time with! “After calling to a few estate agents, we realised that their properties were a little too big and far too expensive for us "*&').*#*5;)"3#"-#>)#0)"-0*)'#*-#0/F/.(# through ads in the paper. We viewed quite a few ropey places before we found ‘the one’. For the nonbargain price of US$100 per person per week we got a onebed room apartment, with the added bonus of 10 Irish nextdoor neighbours! “It wasn’t exactly an ideal living arrange ment. I ended up being the ‘futon man’ for the summer. To get to the toilet, I had to negotiate the maze of sleeping bodies in my way, tiptoeing past my friend on a cot, weaving around another friend on a fold out couch, stepping over the body in the sleeping bag on the ground and on through the bedroom, where one lucky sod got a real bed to sleep on. “But on the plus side, it was clean, quiet, we had loads of space outside and we had air conditioning – a real luxury. And we all (-*#8-%"#;0)**5#C&/,?259#G-7)#).')'#&;# working during the day while others, like me, worked night shifts, so we weren’t all hanging around in the apartment at the same time. “I worked as a dishwasher in an Italian restaurant called Giovanni’s, which suited 7)#4.)3#$"#:#6$'#.-#')"/0)#*-#>-0?#>/*6# the public and wanted something that required absolutely no brain power. There were never any complaints when I’d arrive home each night at 1am with a few large

pizzas. We had a great time that summer and came home with some brilliant stories – but I don’t miss that futon!” H)$2/.(#>/*6#'/B4,&2*#2$.'2-0'"#,$.3#&.B-0 tunately, be a common problem wherever you are in the world and it was an issue Mairead Mahony had to deal with as she was about to leave Melbourne, Australia, having spent 10 months there on a work ing visa. “I shared a house with other backpackers in St. Kilda, an area by the beach populat ed by backpackers, hippies and a strange,

“Our landlord was a total cowboy. He wouldn’t give us our deposit back” and sometimes unsettling, mix of eclectic types. The house itself was okay but our landlord was a total cowboy! He used to let himself into the house during the day when we were at work. We only realised this when he started leaving notes around the house asking us to clean up. “When it was time to move out, he told &"#>)#6$'#0&/.)'#6/"#>--').#F--0"#>/*6# our high heels. He said that, not only would he not give us our deposit back, we also had to pay him A$500 each to repair *6)#'$7$()I#J)#?.)>#*6)#F--0"#>)0)#)K actly as they had been when we moved in, but he wouldn’t listen.

After lots of arguments, the day before we were due to leave he came around with his dad and brother (who were a bit scary) and tried to intimidate us into giving him the money. In the end we moved out and lost our deposit of $150 each – a lot of money when you are a backpacker – but, after getting advice, we didn’t pay him the other, extra money. We found out later that he had tried the same scam on the people who had rented the house from him before us. “All that said, it was the best year of my life and I had some brilliant times in that house. I made a lot of great friends who I am, to this day, still in touch with.” L-#,)2)%0$*)#4./"6/.(#,-22)()3#!.()2$# Burns spent a summer working and holi daying in Hersonissos, Crete with three friends – but didn’t realise she would end up luring holidaymakers to foam parties and sharing her room with an unwelcome, sixlegged guest: “I had great notions of landing a cushy 8-%#/.#$#C&$/.*#0)"*$&0$.*#%5#*6)#%)$,63# but it wasn’t to be. After traipsing up and down the beach promenade for a week or two, we eventually struck it ‘lucky’ and got 8-%"#$"#M"$2)"#$().*"N9#:.#0)$2/*53#*6/"#7)$.*# selling tickets for a nightly foam party, for which we would earn a commission. “I soon got used to venturing around the hills of Hersonissos on a moped, ducking in and out of resort apartments posing as a holidaymaker, trying not to get caught by grumpy Greek owners who would chase me off for trying to lure guests away from their bar to our foam party. The days were

long but it ended up being great fun, and I developed powers of persuasion I never knew I had! “We ended up renting a onebed apart ment between the four of us. It was basic but clean, apart from the odd visit from a cockroach we nicknamed Cormac. He end ed up being the bestsmelling cockroach in Hersonissos because of our unusual trick of spraying him with deodorant to scare him out the door.” As Angela discovered, when you hunt

PHOTOS: Shutterstock (Clockwise from top; Robyn Mackenzie, Maksym Gorpenyuk, Lee Torrens)

“I got used to ducking into apartments posing as a holidaymaker, trying not to get caught by grumpy owners” B-0#$#8-%#*-#;$5#5-&0#>$5#'&0/.(#5-&0#"*/.*# abroad, it’s best to keep an open mind. J6)*6)0#5-&#).'#&;#F/;;/.(#%&0()0"3# >-0?/.(#$"#$#7$/'#-0#>$/*/.(#*$%2)"3#8&"*# keep reminding yourself that your seem /.(25#')$'+).'#8-%#>/22#B&.'#7$.5#(0)$*# adventures and nights out. Chances are you’ll end up having more fun than you imagined and making friends with people you’d never have come across otherwise. On her J1 summer in South Carolina,

COMPASS

USA

NEW YORK NEW YORK They call it the city that never sleeps, but Rory Coen !"#$%&'(&%'!)*#+(&("&,-./&#01

PHOTO: Shutterstock (Clockwise from top; Marcio Jose Bastos Silva, Ilja Masik, Gina Sanders)

ne hand in the air for the big city; street lights, big dreams all lookin’ pretty; no place in the world that can compare, put your lighters in the air for New York.” As I walked from Grand Central Station to Times Square on my penultimate evening in New York, I got that feeling when you realise your dream isn’t real and you’re able to wake yourself up. The unmistakeable feeling of surrealism as I closed my eyes and took in the unique New York air was blurred out against the reality that the dream was over. I was going home to Tipperary the following day, and that’s a long way from New York. I touched down at JFK in late January, !"""#$$%$&'($)*$+,$)&*$)*$-./$012.-3$&.14.$ is to say that I didn’t know anybody else. There were other UL students on the plane who were very excitable up the front, but I didn’t know them. My uncle collected me at the airport and took me to his house in the Bronx. He loved doing this as he pointed out

different landmarks along the route, from the Long Island Sound to the Triborough Bridge. He felt compelled to explain to me why that route was the most /5641/*-#$$%$&'($5)47(1*2$+,$'--/*-1)*$)*$-./$ New York skyline, however, which looked en ergetic with the Twin Towers and the Empire State Building very obvious. My placement was with an Insurance Company on 26th and Park, with six other UL students, one of whom I knew vaguely from my course. We had a quick orienta -1)*$+//-1*2$-./$68(-$+)8*1*23$&./8/$&/$ introduced ourselves and met our respective bosses. The Americans had been having great fun trying to pronounce the name “Aoife”, since they became aware she’d be working there. The company gave an impression of being formal, but it was very laid back when the initial feeling of anxiety and intimidation .'9$&)8*$)55#$$:.1;(-$5)8$-./$68(-$5/&$&//<($ you’d be checking for your wallet every few seconds on the Subway and apologising to everyone for the slightest contact, by the early summer you were pushing your way -.8)72.$-./$48)&9/9$-8'1*(3$9/4;'81*2$4)*6 9/*-;,$=.)-$()7>3$;/-$+/$-.8)72.?3$-)$6*9$'$ more comfortable standing area. The Subway was a haven for incident and cheap anecdotes. I rode it every day to work. In fact, when I think of my commute back then, I shudder. A 15minute bus jour ney to the local Subway station in Woodlawn, the No 4. express train would take me Down town as far as 42nd Street, where I would then switch to a local No. 6 train which would carry me to 26th St. I would wake up at about 7.15 am to be at

work at 9. This hour of the morning wasn’t something I ever really got used to. I surprised myself every time I got into work on time. The amount of variables that were in play from my bed to my seat at work would freeze a NASA computer. Once at work, my day slowed down and routine took over. Routine was blissful. You knew what to expect and when to expect it. On top of that, my burden of work never got too wor rying, which afforded me the luxury of “leav ing my desk”. The last thing you wanted was a surprise or the chance of a surprise, which +,$@)A$+)(-$9/6*1-/;,$919*B-$.'C/#$$D,$9/(<$ was in a corner of the room, which I’m sure they used for storage before I started. It seemed to be a temporary arrangement for the Irish guy, but I didn’t mind. The last thing I wanted was preferential treatment.

“The Subway was a haven for incident and cheap anecdotes” E./$9/(<$&'($>'8-$)5$'$>8/--,$A12$)564/$>;'*$ though, with maybe 40 other employees in earshot. The guy sitting closest to me was a consultant whom I didn’t speak to much originally, but a heated telephone conversa tion with his girlfriend forced him to come and apologise to me afterwards. He was gone the next day, never saw him again. I eventually found my feet after a couple of weeks living with my uncle. Myself and one of the lads moved into a basement apart ment with this old guy called Ritchie. He used to call the pair of us “guy”, an American term I never got used to. The apartment had three bedrooms, a small bathroom and an even smaller kitchen. There was no living room, so we tried to avoid the place as best we could. As luck might have it, a couple of girls from UL found an apartment up the road from us for four people and they asked us to move in. We naturally bit their hands off and so started six months of craic that contextual ised Alicia Keys’ view, eloquently expressed in the opening quote, that New York is where dreams are made of.

COMPASS

INTERRAILING

The InterRail Pass – The Basics

AGAINST MACHINE

PHOTO: Shutterstock

RAIL THE

PHOTO: Shutterstock (Regien Paassen)

nterRailing is second only to J1 trips to America when it comes to rites of pas sage for us Irish. Indeed, this type of holiday attracts hoards of young travel lers from Ireland each summer. And it’s not hard to see why. InterRailing combines the romance and freedom of train travel with the chance to experience some of Europe’s best cities, all in one trip, and few other types of holiday can come close to it for sheer enjoyment. If properly planned, your trip will be a onceinalifetime experience, leaving you with a host of cherished memories. Equally, however, a badly planned trip can lead to undue stress and worry, ultimately leaving you disappointed and exhausted. So here for your delectation is an entirely random number of tips, gained through per sonal (and sometimes painful) experience of holiday by train that should prove invaluable as you prepare your InterRailing trip.

Heading off to see Europe by train this summer but not sure how to plan your trip? Fear not – Cormac Murtagh has all the tips you need for a successful InterRail Odyssey right here.

COMPASS

The InterRail Global Pass is valid for travel in 30 Euro pean countries, except the pass holder’s country of resi dence. The pass is only avail able to European residents and those staying in Europe for six months or more. However, nonEuropean residents can avail of the similar EuRail pass. There is no age limit for pur chase of an InterRail pass, but !"#$%&'"#(&%)*+),-"+./(&0$1$+0 ing on your age – a Youth fare is available for travellers aged from 12 – 25. Various ticket options are on offer, ranging from 5 days’ travel to be used within a 10day period, up to a month’s continuous travel. Supplements may apply for some special trains.

Plan Your Route. I can’t stress this one enough. The worst thing you can do on a holiday like this is to cram too many cities into one trip. Believe me, I learnt this the hard way. The temptation to experience as many cities as possible is only natural – that’s part of the appeal of this kind of trip, after all. But it’s not always the best option. A better plan is to carefully consider your budget and the time you have !"#$%#&'())*+,-$.,/#($"/%$01(#($2"/$#(&))2$ want to go and try to come up with a loose travel itinerary. Even if you have a rough idea of where you’re going and how long

For more information, check out the comprehensive www. interrail.net website.

you’re going to be there, you can avoid a lot of unnecessary stress.

Book Ahead. Once you know where you’re going, it’s a good idea to book your accommodation in advance. Even %1"/,1$2"/$3&+$/4/&))2$.+5$4"6(01(#($%"$ stay if you just show up in a city, the only 0&2$%"$,/&#&+%(($.+5*+,$%1($31(&7(4%$"#$ bestvalue hostels is to ring and book before you arrive. This is particularly important if you have a budget to stick to. And don’t forget that many day trains going through Europe are often booked up beforehand. 87(+5*+,$4*9$1"/#4$)2*+,$"+$&$%#&*+$:""#$ because you were kicked out of a prebooked seat is no one’s idea of fun. Which leads us neatly to our next tip…

Know the Name of Your Accommo dation. It seems obvious, but taking a note of the name of your hostel or putting a business card in your wallet is a simple way of avoiding a drunken night’s ramble through a strange city, trying to explain to a bemused taxi driver the exact location of your hostel.

Know the Name of Your Stop. On some train trips the names of the sta tions are not announced, and there may be stops where you need to change trains. So make sure you know your stops before getting on your train. For example, if it wasn’t for a group of cluedin travel lers from Cork, I could still be stuck in God knows where in Poland today...

Use Sleeper Trains. Not only are sleeper trains an exciting way to travel, they also act as a handy alternative accommodation option. They are relatively cheap when you consider you’re saving the cost of a night’s stay, and it’s hard to beat the feeling of leaving one city at the end of the day only to wake up refreshed the next morning in your next destination.

Bring the Basics. Wet wipes, a pad lock for your luggage, something to pass the journey and even toilet paper – you don’t want to get stuck without an es sential once you’re on the train. A credit card is always a good idea in case you run out of 6"+(2-$&4$*4$&$7"7;/7$%(+%-$*+$3&4($2"/$.+5$ yourself well and truly stuck for accommoda tion.

“InterRailing combines the romance and freedom of train travel with the chance to experience some of Europe’s best cities”

Enjoy Yourself! Above all, have fun. Fully explore each city on your itiner ary, go on pub crawls (highly recom mended) and generally let your hair down. It may well be the best holiday you’ll ever have.

COMPASS

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Summer Style File

FASHION CITIES

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FASHION CITIES

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COMPASS

“Young Irish travellers are visiting more adventurous destinations like Thailand and Poland, where a wide variety of affordable garments, brands and labels are available” S0)<%)'+9"66,-A'1*<<+'*2%'B,&%+62%*&' *#2"++'=1%2,#*8'"33%2,-A'&%+,A-%2'72*-&+' 3"2'*'32*#),"-'"3')9%,2'"2,A,-*<'62,#%4'59%<+%*' F2%1,01'S0)<%)+'9*+'TU'+9"66,-A'#%-)2%+' ,-')9%'V(8'+%<<,-A'9,A9J%-&'72*-&+'+0#9'*+' 59*-%<8'W"<#%'>'P*77*-*8'E"11/'O,<HA%2' *-&'5*<C,-'K<%,-'*)'&,+#"0-)%&'62,#%+4'N3' /"0G2%'C,+,),-A'X%B'Y"2$8'*')2,6')"'M""&702/' 5"11"-8'B9,#9',+'59%<+%*G+'<*2A%+)'#%-)2%' *-&',+'<"#*)%&'.0+)'"-%'9"02'-"2)9'"3')9%'#,)/8' ,+'*'10+)4

CANADA S33%2,-A'*'+,1,<*2'+9"66,-A'%Z6%2,%-#%')"' =1%2,#*8'5*-*&*',+'9"1%')"'#"0-)<%++'+9"6 6,-A'#%-)2%+'['*1"-A')9%'1"+)'3*1"0+',+' \*-#"0C%2G+'D%)2"6"<,+'*)'D%)2")"B-'*-&')9%' E"2"-)"'@*)"-'5%-)2%4 W%6*2)1%-)'+)"2%']%<<%2+8'"3)%-'#"16*2%&' )"'=1%2,#*G+'E*2A%)8'9*+'I^I'"0)<%)+')92"0A9 "0)'5*-*&*4''N)+'+,+)%2'+)"2%'E9%'_*/'"33%2+' 1"2%'1,&J)"J9,A9'3*+9,"-8'+)"#$,-A'72*-&+' +0#9'*+'(:FG+'3*C"02,)%'O*<+)"-'O%2,)*A%'*-&' )9%'1"2%'*33"2&*7<%'()/<%'>'5"4 ?*-+'"3'EK'D*ZZ'+9"0<&'1*$%')9%,2'B*/' )"'M,--%2+8'B9,#9'+%<<+'<*7%<+'+0#9'*+'D,++' (,Z)/8'_027%22/'*-&'W,%+%<'*)'06')"'`U'6%2' #%-)'"33')9%,2'"2,A,-*<'62,#%4''=+'/"0G&'%Z6%#)8' *'<")'"3'2""),-A'*-&'2011*A,-A',+'2%a0,2%&b E"2"-)"',+'9"1%')"'*')92,C,-A'C,-)*A%'#<")9 ,-A'+#%-%8'B,)9'+)"2%+'+0#9'*+'`c'\,-)*A%8' _0-A*<"B8'_<*#$'D*2$%)'\,-)*A%'5<")9,-A' *-&'?<*+9'_*#$'+%<<,-A'"-%J"3J*J$,-&'6,%#%+' *)'A2%*)'62,#%+4'N3'/"0'B*-)')"'H-&'+6%#,*<' +%#"-&J9*-&',)%1+',-'\*-#"0C%28'1%*-B9,<%8' +%)'/"02'+,A9)+'3"2'&,+)2,#)+'+0#9'*+'5"1 1%2#,*<'W2,C%8'P*+)"B-'*-&'K,)+,<*-"'T)9' =C%-0%4'' :%++,#*'=<7*G+'3*C"02,)%'&%-,1'72*-&8'P0,&"' *-&'D*2/8',+'*<+"'B"2)9'#9%#$,-A'"0)4'E9%' <*7%<G+'.%*-+'*2%'7")9'+)/<,+9'*-&'9,A9'a0*<,)/' *-&'*)'5d;UU'*'6"68'*'6*,2'B"0<&'0-&"07) %&</'62"C%')"'7%'*'B,+%',-C%+)1%-)'9%*&,-A' ,-)"')9%'N2,+9'B,-)%24'E9%'D"-)2%*<J7*+%&' 72*-&',+'+)"#$%&',-'+%C%2*<'+)"2%+'*#2"++')9%' #"0-)2/4'

AUSTRALIA N3'/"0G2%'+033%2,-A'32"1'N2,+9'9,A9'+)2%%)' B,)9&2*B*<'+/16)"1+'B9,<%',-'Se8'20+9')"' your nearest Forever New store, where you #*-')*$%'/"02'6,#$'32"1')9%')2%-&,%+)'"3'A*2 1%-)+'*-&')9%'1"+)'#"C%)%&'7*A+'*-&'+9"%+4' M,)9')9%'=0)01-fM,-)%2'#"<<%#),"-'#022%-)</' ,-'+)"2%8'C,+,)"2+')"')9%'=0++,%'#9*,-'#*-'6,#$' 06'*-'%-C,*7<%'B,-)%2'B*2&2"7%8'0-*C*,<*7<%' "-')9%+%'+9"2%+4'F2,#%+'*2%'*33"2&*7<%8'B,)9' 1"+)',)%1+'2%)*,<,-A'3"2'0-&%2'=d;gU4'?"2' 302)9%2'2%*+"-*7<%'2%)*,<')9%2*6/8'&2"6',-)"' 9,A9'+)2%%)'9")+6")+'(6"2)+A,2<'*-&'_*2&")4 ?%%<,-A'!0+9'B,)9'#*+9h''='.*0-)')92"0A9' W*C,&':"-%+'&%6*2)1%-)'+)"2%'"0A9)')"'+"2)' )9*)'"0)b''SeG+'*-+B%2')"'_2"B-'E9"1*+' 9"0+%+'*<<')9%'1*."2'3*+9,"-'6<*/%2+8'+0#9' *+'D*2#':*#"7+'*-&'P0##,8'B9,<%'=0+)2*<,*-' &%+,A-%2'=<*--*9'O,<<G+'#"-#%++,"-',+'%++%- ),*<'C,%B,-A4'=<)9"0A9'62,#%+'#*-'2%*#9'06' )"'dggU'3"2',-)2,#*)%'32"#$+8')9%'<*7%<8'B,)9'

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or many years, Irish students have !"#$%&'()*)%+,&%')"'%-."/'+011%2+'"3' +0-'*-&'30-4'5"1%'(%6)%17%28')9%':;%2+' 2%)02-'9"1%8'#<*&'9%*&')"')"%',-'=7%2 #2"17,%'>'?,)#9'*-&'=1%2,#*-'@*A<%8'62"0&</' +9"B,-A'"33')9%')92%*&+')9%/'6,#$%&'06'"-' )9%,2')2*C%<+4' D*-/'/"0-A')2*C%<<%2+'*2%'-"B'7%#"1,-A' 1"2%'*&C%-)02"0+8'9"B%C%28'*-&'C,+,),-A' 6<*#%+'<,$%'E9*,<*-&'*-&'F"<*-&8'B9%2%'*' B,&%'C*2,%)/'"3'*33"2&*7<%'A*21%-)+8'72*-&+' *-&'<*7%<+'*2%'*C*,<*7<%8'B9%)9%2',)G+'32"1'*' 3"2%,A-'9,A9'+)2%%)8'C*+)'1*2$%)+8',-)%2-* ),"-*<'&%+,A-%2+'"2'30-$/'C,-)*A%'+)"2%+4' ("'9%2%'*2%'"02')"6'),6+')"'+)*/'+)/<,+9' )9,+'+011%2',-'HC%'"3')9%'9"))%+)'+)0&%-)' &%+),-*),"-+4

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THAILAND*

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Staying stylish on a budget during your summer away doesn’t have to be a problem. Gemma Kavanagh provides the fashion 411 on what’s on offer in this year’s top summer destinations for young travellers.

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COMPASS

BASEBALL

f you ever played rounders sa bhunscoil, watching a game of baseball during your trip Stateside will bring it all back. The origins of baseball are somewhat sketchy, and the links the game has with rounders can be a touchy subject amongst the game’s historians and diehard fans, some of whom claim it as a wholly American invention. However, the general consensus is that while there are many uniquely American as pects to the game, baseball initially evolved from rounders, which originated in Ireland and Britain in the 18th and 19th centuries, and was brought to America by early set tlers. So yes, you can tell all your American friends that we invented baseball, if only to wind them up. The rules of the modern game date to 1845, when Alexander Cartwright drew up the Knickerbocker Rules in New York. (Yes, it’s a real word.) Today, 30 professional teams – 29 in the US, as well as the Toronto Blue Jays – play Major League Baseball (MLB). There are 162 games in the regular season, which runs from April to October. And with tickets gener ally costing less than US$20 for the cheap !"#$!%&'()&!*()+,-.$&/-,&0$&$((&*#1,&$(&2"$&$(& a game.

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The Basics

Game Duration

Two teams of nine players take turns at 3#$$0-2&#-,&/"+,0-24&5+#'"1!&(-&$*"&3#$$0-2& $"#6&$#7"&$)1-!&8#90-2&$*"&/"+,0-2&$"#6.!& pitcher, and try to score runs by connecting with the pitch, and rounding the four bases. :*"&/"+,0-2&$"#6&$10"!&$(&!$(;&$*"&3#$$"1!&3'& getting them out in a variety of ways, includ ing the infamous three strikes. Once three batters are called out, the teams swap around. One turn at batting and /"+,0-2&8(1&"#9*&$"#6&9(-!$0$)$"!&#-&0--0-2%& with a game being made up of nine innings. Oh, and the team with the most runs at the end of nine innings wins. I knew I was forgetting something.

A game is usually completed within three hours. But there’s no time limit in baseball; the game lasts until the nine innings are complete, however long it takes. They don’t do draws in American sports, though, so if the teams are tied after nine innings, the game continues until a winner emerges. On occasion, games have been suspended and continued the following day. The longest ever MLB game that wasn’t suspended was the 1974 encounter between the St. Louis Cardinals and the New York Mets. It lasted seven hours and four minutes, with St. Louis winning 43 after 25 innings. &<(&08&'()&/-,&$*"&2#6"&#&30$&(8&#&,1#2%& just sit back and soak up the atmosphere. Go get a hot dog. I’ll have one while you’re going, thanks. Hold the mustard.

“You can tell your American friends that the Irish invented baseball, if only to wind them up”

The League The 30 MLB teams are divided into the National and the American Leagues, each of which are split into East, West and Central divisions. At the end of the regular season in

Above and below: Yankee Stadium, home of the Bronx Bombers. Bottom: Albert Pujols of the St. Louis Cardinals

October, the six division winners, plus the two best runnersup, enter the postseason. These teams play a series to determine the top two teams in each League, with the remaining teams playing another series, from which two League champions emerge. The two League champions then play each other in the bestofseven World Series, to determine the overall champion.

Star Team: New York Yankees The Yankees are the reigning World Series Champions, and also hold the record for the mostever wins, at 27. They are baseball royalty, and many of the game’s legends, including Babe Ruth and Joe DiMaggio, have worn the famous Yankee uniform. They’re sort of like the Kilkenny hurling $"#6%&3)$&=0$*()$&>"-1'&<*"8?0-4&:*"'.1"& good, but they’re not that good.

Star Player: Albert Pujols – St. Louis Cardinals Yankees shortstop Derek Jeter is one of the standout players of his generation. But given the Yankees’ 27 World Series wins,

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The World Cup may be taking place this summer, but in the US, baseball will always take centre stage. Andrew Cosgrave gives you a guide to America’s national pastime. He also apologises for calling you an idiot.

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Baseball An Idiot’s Guide

not to mention the even greater honour of being named as the inaugural Compass Star Baseball Team, let’s give the nod to the Car ,0-#+!.&/1!$&3#!"6#-%&5)@(+!&A3"+(=&+"8$B4 The 30yearold Dominican has spent his entire MLB career at the Cardinals, winning the World Series in 2006. Widely regarded as (-"&(8&$*"&2#6".!&6(,"1-C,#'&21"#$!%&5)@(+!& *#!&3""-&D($",&5+#'"1&(8&$*"&E"#1&3'&*0!&8"+ low professionals three times.

Want to know more? F8&'()&=#-$&$(&/-,&()$&6(1"&#3()$&3#!"3#++& or rounders, visit the following sites for more information. www.mlb.com :*"&(8/90#+&="3!0$"&(8&G#@(1&H"#2)"&I#!" ball; includes information on ticket prices. www.baseballireland.com F8&'()&/-,&'()1!"+8&*((7",&#-,&8#-9'&#&2(& when you return home, check out Baseball F1"+#-,.!&(8/90#+&="3!0$"4 www.gaarounders.ie The GAA’s rounders website; includes the (8/90#+&JKK&1)+"!%&/1!$&,1#=-&);&0-&LMMN4

WOG5K<<

MY FAVOURITE PLACE

My Favourite Place PARIS CONOR TOBIN

because they really do know best. Paris is not the type of city that invites you in – no one will talk to you if you don’t speak French. It is a city that is there to be discovered. It is a city of love and a city of good wine – and cheap wine! Perhaps it is this very reputation as the city

WICKLOW

of love, or perhaps it is that air of mystery, that invades the senses every time you walk down a Parisian walkway, beneath the Eiffel Tower, as the lights of Paris at night guide your way. Just try to forget about Thierry Henry.

With numerous canals snaking their way through the clean streets – all the while framed by the exquisite designs of the buildings – a summer’s stroll through Amsterdam’s streets ranks alongside that of any other major city. Add to that the beautiful Rijksmuseum – home to numerous paintings from the Dutch Golden Age – and other sights such as the

Van Gogh Museum and Anne Frank’s home, as well as the oldest stock exchange in the world, and Amsterdam reveals itself to be a city containing many pleasures, apart from the obvious. So banish those preconcep tions of Amsterdam as a place of sin and vice, and take a chance on the real side of the city.

PHOTO: Shutterstock (Peter Adams)

AMSTERDAM CORMAC MURTAGH Contrary to prevailing opin ion, Amsterdam is not all about the red light district and cannabisselling ‘coffee shops’. Far from it, in fact. Although it does boast its fair share of hookers and weed, Amsterdam’s real ap peal lies elsewhere. The Dutch capital has a multitude of pleasures of the nonvice vari ety, not least its architecture.

COMPASS

case with burst zips proves this. The buses run on time, and the Tube can bring you anywhere you want to go in a fraction of the time you can get around a city like Dublin, which is half the size. Being a history fanatic, I can’t get enough of London’s

past. In the three times I’ve been there I still have not seen all the museums and exhibitions. But it’s not just for people like me, it makes history accessible with shows such as London’s Under ground covering everything from The Plague to Jack the Ripper.

PHOTO: Shutterstock

LONDON LEAH JORDAN London! I know it’s not exotic or sunny but I love it. I’ve been there three times and each time it gets better. The weather never seems to !"#$%#!$&#$%#'(!)*+,#-#.+&# the people quite friendly, the shopping is to die for – two whole days spent in Topshop on Oxford Street and a suit

Milan Cathedral. Photo: Shutterstock

ANDREW COSGRAVE

PHOTO: Efa Corwell

All Portraits by Thomas McGrawLewis

My favourite place is Paris, France. Now, before you all start calling me a beretwearing baguette who is particularly enamoured with Thierry Henry, think about this for a second – France was the birth place of the modern world. The French may seem like they know it all, but that’s

From Borneo to Berlin, Compass writers choose their favourite destinations.

So, my favourite place in the world. -/0"#!""+#123*+4#15#2$67#83#!2$*+#952#$#.11*+4# $+%:"2#$+&#$#.11*+4#2"$%5+;#<"2)*+,#'(!250+*7,# Boston, Rome. Rome was pretty special. But I keep coming back home again – I’m a bit of a homebird, I admit. Driving along the back roads of rural Wicklow on a seldom seen summer’s day is my favourite place in the world. I always feel unreasonably content there, scaling the mountains, or forging a path through the valleys and glens, with sunlight =*"26*+4#*+#.1%#$+&#!(2%1%#1>25(4>#12""%# covering roads older than us all. I’m not a farmer’s son, or the pride of the parish, but I spent much of my childhood travelling along roads like these. So maybe it’s partly nostalgia. But the breadth and beauty of my county’s landscape never ceases to sur prise me. It’s stunning out there, but so easy to look past, because it’s right at your feet. Fáilte Ireland should be paying me for this.

ORLANDO

AISLING MURRAY

My favourite holiday destination has to be Orlando Florida. It is a holiday destination for everybody, I’ve been to Florida over 10 times I love I that much. It is a 100 times better then New York for shopping and has an amazing night life. But the best part of going to Orlando has to be the theme parks, my favourite of which is Universal Studios. Universal is the more adult of Orlando’s top theme parks, the rides are all movie based and are entirely driven by adrenaline. Universal also offers an amazing nightlife on their CityWalk which has so many clubs your spoiled for choice. There is over 20 night clubs which have no cover charge so you spend the whole night bar hopping. -#:5()&#&".+*1")3#2"6588"+&#?2)$+&5#15# anyone who is looking for an amazing holi day, the best holidays I have ever had, have been in Orlando.

MILAN ORNA BALLOUT

The busy city of Milan is ultimately every fashionistas’ shopping paradise. Here you can lose yourself amidst the streets of haute couture and vintage shops. It’s my favourite place to escape and explore Italy’s interesting history and embrace its laidback lifestyle. The city is home to mesmerising sights like the Duomo and Santa Maria Delle Grazie – where you can enjoy Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece ‘The Last Supper’. There’s a fantastic array of activities to choose from in Milan, and Italian hospital ity is very refreshing. It’s bliss to chill in a trendy café with a cappuccino after a long day of shopping and sightseeing. The Italian food is always so fresh and tasty – my favourite dish is calzone (folded over pizza). There’s nothing better than re laxing in the evening, sipping a glass of vino and taking in the Milanese ambience!

STRASBOURG DEIRDRE GILHAWLEY

My favourite place in the world is Strasbourg, France. Strasbourg is a city with the perfect blend of culture, food and drink, and night life. Located in the northeast of France, right on the border with Germany (which explains the visible mixture of French and German culture), it is one of the prettiest places I’ve ever been to. There is so much to see and do. I never tired of walking around the beautiful his toric city centre. The climb to the top of the imposing Cathédrale de NotreDame was al ways worth the effort for the amazing views of the Vosges Mountains and Black Forest. Everyone who came to visit me enjoyed sampling traditional Alsatian food, like my personal favourite, the delicious pizzalike !"#!$%&"'()$* Strasbourg will always be a special place to me, so much so that I’ve been back numer ous times since my year there. Take it from me, if you ever have the chance, go there!

COMPASS

PHOTO: Tourism Toronto

The Sun Sets over Niagara Falls

THE BIG PICTURE

You enjoy reading this magazine, but could you write for it?

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