WHERE TO GO NEXT ITALY FRANCE MARRAKECH TANGIER COSTA RICA MONTANA NAPA & SONOMA ST. BARTH’S & MORE FALL/WINTER 2021
CHATEAU DE VERSAILLES OFFERS AN EXPERIENCE SO IMMERSIVE THAT IT ALLOWS YOU TO IMAGINE A CONVERSATION WITH A KING ACROSS CENTURIES.” ~ A NIGHT AT THE CHÂTEAU, PAGE 36
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Clockwise from below: Asparagus at Ark in Copenhagen (page 11); Abu Camp in Botswana (page 26); chef Marcus Samuelsson (page 24). On the front and back covers: Castello di Reschio (page 6), photos by Philip Vile.
4-5 On My Mind Back in the World
6-15 On Our Radar This Season’s Top Travel News
16-17 Member Events
Indagare Global Classroom
18-23 Spotlight
Hello, New York!
RESTAURANT ARK; ABU CAMP; MARCUS AT BAHA MAR FISH + CHOP HOUSE
24-25 Food
A Q&A with Chef Marcus Samuelsson
26-29 Behind the Scenes The Making of Safari Style
30-35 Insider Journeys
A Preview of Our 2022 Trips 1
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Let us help you make the most of your next trip. | 212-988-2611| membership@Indagare.com 2 I N D A G A R E . C O M
ELISE BRONZO
How you travel matters.
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FALL/WINTER 2021
AIRELLES CHÂTEAU DE VERSAILLES, RENÉE KEMPS
Clockwise, from above: Château de Versailles (page 36); locals in Tangier (page 44); shopping in Marrakech (page 52).
BOOK NOW We can plan trips to any of the destinations in this issue. Visit indagare.com/go to get started.
FEATURES 36-43 A Night at the Château 44-51 Hidden Tangier 52-61 Travel by Passion 62-69 The World According to Massimo 70-75 Where We Traveled 3
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BACK IN THE WORLD I
t’s been just over a year since I began traveling again after lockdown. In September 2020, I returned to JFK to fly to Kenya before any airport restaurants or shops had reopened. Vast empty halls, shuttered kiosks and departures screens with only five or six flights gave the once-bustling hub a dystopian atmosphere. The few passengers carried negative PCR-test results and digital health forms and wore KN95 masks and face shields. My carry-on bulged with wipes, immunity boosters and extra masks. It was a new travel landscape—one that required bravery to enter. A year later, we know more about plane HEPA filters and avoiding contact points at crowded airports; many more borders are open; the majority of international travelers are vaccinated; and yet a great deal of travel anxiety remains. On that first return trip to Kenya and subsequent ones to Rwanda, Kenya (again) and the American West (also pre-vaccine), I experienced the flood of joy that came with joining a wider world, but I also saw the damage that occurred in communities that had become dependent on foreign tourism. Rwanda, which after a horrific genocide used tourism as a tool for not only preserving its endangered mountain gorillas but also for economic empowerment, set early standards on contact tracing and testing; but many rangers I met had gone from working five days a week to three days a month. The Indagare members who traveled with me last November were seen as ambassadors of hope, the first glimmer that travel might resume and with it their livelihoods. In those early days post-lockdown, travel was a highly charged topic. Some travelers said they’d wait until Covid was over to leave
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home. Others felt anyone boarding a plane posed a global health risk. Others couldn’t wait to explore. As a travel professional, I felt a duty to support our partners and provide firsthand intelligence to our community. I also felt I could follow measures to protect myself and others—at home and abroad—and, thankfully, have not contracted Covid-19. Last winter, we hoped that vaccines would return the world—and travel—to the way it was. Today, new variants and spikes have shown us that we must accept that just as 9/11 forever changed travel, so has Covid-19. Some changes are for the better. I hope that we won’t take the incredible privilege of travel for granted, and we’ll be more conscious of the impact of our travels on the environment and on communities. Places like Florence and Venice that had been overrun with crowds are passing regulations to limit tourist numbers and ban cruise ships. This past June, when I arrived in France the day after it opened its borders to Americans, I discovered a spirit of celebration. After months of curfew, Parisians literally danced in squares and beside the Seine. “Foreigners used to annoy us,” one shopkeeper said. “Now, we’re thrilled to see visitors and what they represent.” But some changes will make travel more challenging and require a new way of thinking. Predictability—or the belief that well-laid plans will go according to preparations—is a concept we must relinquish. Much of what we could once expect is out of our control, which is why I have gone from rarely buying travel insurance to regularly buying a cancel-for-any-reason policy. With fewer flights, minimal corporate travel and
reduced crews, airlines cannot provide the capacity nor the service we once assumed we would receive, which is why cancellations are now common. Borders can open and close overnight. Entry requirements can change. Testing rules vary and can be confusing. And the media’s penchant for alarming news means that panic often drowns out facts. If you think of travel as a muscle that, prior to Covid, got lots of exercise, but that now seems to have lost some of its strength, it might be because most people have not yet realized that the workout has changed. A new flexibility, plus courage and compassion, are required to go back into the world. More information and context are required, as is a backup plan, because false positives and breakthrough cases can happen; hotels can close due to an outbreak. Disruptions are more likely, and travel now means anticipating those potential risks. (The rewards that await are different—but often enormous.) This summer, I was practically alone in the Uffizi. There were so few boats in Capri’s Blue Grotto that one could swim in it. At Petra and the Pyramids, vendors outnumbered visitors. Yes, in some places the check-in lines were longer and the service slower, yet that seemed to matter less, and being part of a collective human experience—just being there again—mattered more. The pandemic has bruised almost every community, and sharing stories and compassion across cultures is one of the things I missed most during Covid. The way that travelers represent bridges between cultures and perspectives, to me, is the greatest lesson of travel, and right now we need the walls put up by our differences to be breached. Recently, while touring
Left: One of our two fall Insider Journeys to the Dolomites. Below, from left: Melissa Biggs Bradley at Petra in Jordan this fall and in Rwanda last fall.
Bethany Beyond the Jordan, the site of the baptism of Jesus, the site’s director told me that when Pope Benedict XVI visited, he said, “What we have in common is far more than what we disagree on. Let’s make this a better world.” I couldn’t agree more. In this issue, I hope you’ll find inspiration for future travels that, whenever you’re ready, will help do just that. P.S.: This fall I’m also a new author! My first book, Safari Style: Exceptional African Camps and Lodges, has just been published by Vendome Press, and the story on page 26 profiles my collaborator, the wonderful photographer Guido Taroni. So nice to see the results of three years of work—and 40 years of travel to Africa!
MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY INDAGARE CEO @INDAGARECEO & @INDAGARETRAVEL
Indagare is a members-only boutique travel-planning company. We offer curated content, customized trip-planning and group trips around personal passions. Indagare Magazine is published twice annually exclusively for Indagare members. © 2021 Indagare. All Rights Reserved. See the magazine online at indagare.com. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Trip inquiries and change of address requests can be made by phone or by emailing info@indagare.com. Indagare Membership Office: 212-988-2611 1177 Avenue of the Americas New York, NY 10036
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ON OUR RADAR
PICTURE A STONE-WALLED CASTLE rising on a hilltop in Umbria. It’s surrounded by 2,700 acres of hills dotted with restored farmhouse villas. Castello di Reschio is the domain of a real princess, a hotel set in a castle dating back 1,000 years, and the passion project of Princess Nencia Corsini and her husband, Count Benedikt Bolza. Over decades, the couple has raised their family here, revived the property and restored 20-some villas for discriminating owners like Gwyneth Paltrow. Last year, they opened the castle as a 36-room hotel. A family ancestor has inspired each room; number 23, “The Aviator,” contains the desk of Benedikt’s
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Polish grandfather, and photos of the late pilot hang on the walls. In addition to raiding the family storerooms for design inspiration, Benedikt, an architect, created lamps, furniture and fixtures (even the bespoke espresso machines), which are mixed with treasures the couple sourced at antiques markets. House owners and hotel guests cross paths at the restaurants on-property—one in the castle, another near the dressage stables and a snack bar by the pool. Cooking classes, riding excursions, hiking trails and various other activities are offered—as are jaunts to Perugia or Cortona—but most guests just enjoy the nostalgic nirvana
of being dropped into a gorgeously styled fairy-tale setting. And there is a Wes Anderson history-meets-humor quality to the place. The count and his wife in traditional Austrian dress often sit out in the courtyard in the evenings, meeting homeowners from Britain or young couples from Dubai who found the hotel on Instagram. “When I saw the princess in traditional costume, I almost wanted to ask if she was serious or just seriously eccentric,” said one guest. But in a moment when people crave either a return to the past or a dose of whimsy, the atmosphere at Castello di Reschio seems perfectly in tune. —MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY
PHOTO CREDIT TKT
Castle in the Sky
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PHOTO CREDIT CASTELLO DI RESCHIO, TKT PHILIPE VILE
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STYLE FILE WHAT’S NEW IN ST. BARTH’S With all eyes on the reopening of Rosewood Le Guanahani St. Barth (a longtime Indagare favorite), we checked in with Faby Jaca, the designer behind Lolita Jaca, the St. Barth’s brand known for its caftans and silk dresses that could have walked out of a Slim Aarons photograph. Here, the insider, who has two boutiques in Gustavia and a third opening soon, shares what’s new on the island—and a few of her secret spots.
of the body... so light and comfortable shapes came naturally to me. But as far as patterns are concerned, inspiration comes from my trips around the world and other cultures…. Travel is essential— without it, Lolita Jaca would not exist.
You’re originally from Paris. How did you end up on Saint Barth’s? I had a desire for a radical change. I was dreaming of sun, sea, freedom... and above all a quality of life. A friendly relation invited me to the island, and I fell in love with it immediately—I never left.
Top shops (besides your own)? Clic Gallery—and Carla, for shoes.
How does the island and travel inspire your work as a designer? The island soothes me and opens me up to a world of colors and a liberation
Your go-to restaurants? Le Ti Saint Barth, Bonito, Orega, L’Isoleta, Kinugawa. My lunchtime canteen—Le Repaire Brasserie—is always good and efficient.
What’s next for you? We are planning to open in another location, but I won’t reveal it yet, out of superstition! Any other island news to share? There will be many new restaurants next season to test—Coya and Balagan— and new boutique hotel Tropical! —JEN BARR
It’s hard to believe it has been 50 years since Walt Disney World opened its doors in Lake Buena Vista, Florida. (Or that it might not have come to fruition at all had Walt Disney gone with Mortimer Mouse, Mickey’s originally planned name.) This month, the resort kicks off its18-month birthday celebration with new rides and updates—even Cinderella’s castle got a makeover. Let the magic begin.—J.B. 8 I N D A G A R E . C O M
FABY JACA; WALT DISNEY INTERNET GROUP
Icon: Happy Birthday, Mickey!
Heirloom Apparent The Met’s Heirloom Project, directed by Madeline Weinrib, draws inspiration from the museum’s Islamic Collection—along with the work (and the stories) of artisans from Egypt to Pakistan.
MADELINE WEINRIB; THE HEIRLOOM PROJECT
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hen businesses began shutting down during Covid, Madeline Weinrib, a designer and co-owner of Marrakech’s Riad El Fenn, started getting emails from artisans looking for work—and the Heirloom Project was born. The resulting collaboration with the Metropolitan Museum of Art is a line of products celebrating the 10th anniversary of its Islamic Wing this month. Benefiting artisans from India, Morocco, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Egypt and Lebanon, the project also shares their stories and techniques: “All of the products are inspired by works in the Met, and made for the museum,” Weinrib explains. Proceeds also support the Met’s conservation and presentation of 5,000 years of art. “Equally important,” adds Weinrib, “all brands participating in the Heirloom Project pay fair wages and provide safe work environments, as well as offer training in
these crafts. I am thrilled that so many Islamic artisans can participate. They are all struggling with the aftereffects of Covid and have had many challenges to get their work to us.” Pieces include Kashmir Loom’s hand-embroidered Indian shawls; a blown-glass decanter from Orient 499 in Lebanon; napkins with Moroccan motifs by AlNour; and Good Earth plates from India, utilizing a poppy motif designed after a 17th-century fragment of a floor spread. Some of Weinrib’s favorites include exquisite Syrian woodwork and bags by Istanbul’s Mehry Mu, which are made by Syrian refugees in Jordan in conjunction with the nonprofit Turquoise Mountain. Weinrib explains: “They are beautiful decorative objects—even when not in use. I feel that way about all these pieces—they inspire a kind of collecting.”—J.B.
Madeline Weinrib (inset, above left) and pieces from her Met Collection
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Fine Print What’s on our fall book list? Slim Aarons: Style (Abrams, $85), by archivist Shawn Waldron and writer Kate Betts, documents the early photographs of high society and fashion luminaries that defined modern style, such as Nan Kempner and Emilio Pucci…. Dominic Bradbury’s The Atlas of Interior Design (Phaidon, $90) spans 80 years of design in 400 interiors across 50 countries…. The Mirror and the Palette (Pegasus, $28) is Jennifer Higgie’s history of women’s self-portraiture, from Artemisia Gentileschi to Frida Kahlo…. André Kertész: Postcards from Paris (Art Institute of Chicago, $50), edited by Elizabeth Siegel, is a compilation of the Hungarian photographer’s carte postale prints—portraits, views and still lifes of 1920s Paris—with essays on exiles and modernists between the wars.—J.B.
HOTEL NEWS
There are now three more good reasons to stay in Paris: Two new hotels in the 1st—the splendid Cheval Blanc, in the Belle Epoque landmark La Samaritaine, and Hôtel Madame Rêve, a property built into the 19th-century Louvre post office building (with a 10,000-square-foot terrace)—and the reopened Saint James, a château hotel in the 16th.
PATAGONIAN PERFECTION
PHOTO CREDIT ABRAMS BOOKS;TKTPEGASUS BOOKS; EXPLORA EL CHALTÉN
Travelers embracing the wilds of Patagonia have long opted for its Chilean side, thanks to a clutch of fabulous properties that deliver adventure without compromising comfort. Now Explora, which runs one of those lodges, is making its debut across the border in Argentina. Explora El Chaltén sits within a private 14,000-acre tract of land adjacent to Los Glaciares National Park (famous for the Perito Moreno Glacier). At just 20 rooms, the hotel will be Explora’s most intimate. It will also cater to the most intrepid: daily activities will include hiking through forests, climbing on granite peaks and glacier-trekking across dazzling blue ice. Opening December 15.—PETER SCHLESINGER
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Clockwise, from above: The dining room at Madrid’s Deessa; watermelon salad at Ark in Copenhagen; Brett Lavender, the chef at Ark.
TOP TABLES EATING WELL AROUND THE WORLD
MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL GROUP; RESTAURANT ARK
Despite the pandemic, the restaurant scene is more vibrant and soulful than ever. New openings reflect a deepened focus on sustainability, community—as seen at Imad’s Syrian Kitchen in London, an homage to the refugee experience—and beauty (such as at Madrid’s glamorous Deessa). Here are a few more standouts.—Elizabeth Harvey Paris: ADMO*
Copenhagen: Restaurant Ark
Tokyo: Maz
From Alain Ducasse, Albert Adrià (of Barcelona’s Tickets) and Romain Meder (of Hôtel Plaza Athénée), ADMO* is a pop-up exploring the link between French and Spanish cuisine, anchored in sustainability. It will launch on November 10 for just 100 days, serving lunch and dinner at the Quai Branly museum.
Named for “a vessel that preserves life,” Ark has charted its own course as a pioneer in vegan fine dining, offering a plant-based tasting menu. Its every detail has been considered for local authenticity and environmental impact, from the zero-waste cocktails to the mushroom dishes sourced from Ark’s Farm.
The fourth restaurant by Peruvian celebri-chef Virgilio Martinez (behind Central in Lima), Maz will soon transport the traditions of Indigenous Andean farmers to Tokyo, in the hopes of spreading a culinary philosophy that is connected to nature—and that transcends borders by also showcasing Japanese flavors.
Cape Town: Chefs Warehouse Tintswalo Atlantic Tucked onto a slip of beach between mountains and the waves of the Atlantic Ocean, Chefs Warehouse Tintswalo Atlantic commands a view worth the visit alone. As a bonus, guests will find exquisitely presented, seafood-forward global tapas here. Come for the sunset; stay for dessert.
Closer to Home... Don’t miss the autumn arrival of Audrey, the new Nashville flagship of James Beard Award winner Sean Brock (formerly Husk), as well as the first opening in decades from icon Alice Waters, which will be located within the Hammer Museum in Los Angeles. 11
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FALL & WINTER ARTS PREVIEW:
The Culture Comeback As the world reemerges, its leading cultural institutions have reopened, with new live performances, galleries and exhibitions. Mario Mercado highlights the upcoming season’s must-see events for travelers, from London to La La Land. LONDON
West End Happenings London theater returns this season in full, beginning with the adaptation of best-seller The Life of Pi (left), a dazzling production with a lifeboat, 16-year-old boy and Bengal tiger. Wyndham’s Theatre; opens November 15.・In the darkly comic play Manor, Nancy Carroll (The Crown) portrays a near-penniless upper-class woman, and Shaun Evans (Endeavor) is the extremist leader of a cult. National Theatre; November 16–January 1.・The latest revival of Cabaret stars Jessie Buckley as Sally Bowles and Eddie Redmayne as the emcee. Playhouse Theatre; opens November 15.・Yaël Farber tackles Shakespeare’s Macbeth, with Saoirse Ronan in her UK stage debut as Lady Macbeth. Almeida Theatre; through November 20.
DALLAS
One of the most highly anticipated van Gogh exhibitions considers the series of olive groves paintings produced at the asylum in SaintRémy-de-Provence during the final year of the artist’s life. Sourced from public and private collections, the paintings capture the groves at different times of day and in different seasons. A collaboration with the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, the show originates at the Dallas Museum of Art, its only U.S. venue. dma.org; through February 6. 12 I N D A G A R E . C O M
JOHAN PERSSON; HOSSEIN SEHATLOU, GOTHENBURG MUSEUM OF ART
Van Gogh’s Olive Groves
SP OTLIGHT
SEEING THE INVISIBLE At 12 gardens around the world, you can now view 13 augmented-reality works from contemporary artists including Ai Weiwei and El Anatsui.
“Seeing the Invisible” draws viewers into worlds that mediate AR experience within park settings, including saguaro cacti in Tucson and redwood forests at the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh. The commissions are on view for a year, allowing guests to enjoy them throughout the seasons. seeingtheinvisible.art.
PARIS
A Major Artistic Reunion at Fondation Louis Vuitton “The Morozov Collection: Icons of Modern Art” reunites—for the first time since the Russian Revolution— French and Russian art collected by Muscovite brothers Mikhail and Ivan Morozov. More than 200 paintings fill the foundation with works by Gauguin, Monet, Picasso, along with two generations of Russian artists they inspired. Dazzling; blockbuster; once-in-a lifetime? All the above. fondationlouisvuitton.fr; through February 22.
ERHARD ROM, COSI FAN TUTTE; FONDATION LOUIS VUITTON, MARC DOMAGE; MOHAMMED KAZEM
SAN FRANCISCO
Reimagined Classics This fall, the San Francisco Opera returns to the War Memorial Opera House—and live performance. At the center of the season is Beethoven’s sole opera, Fidelio. The rarely performed work stars soprano Elza van den Heever as the heroine Leonore in a production staged by Matthew Ozawa (October 14–30). On stage after that: Mozart’s Così Fan Tutte, set in a pre–World War II European country club (November 21–December 3). sfopera.com. 13
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BERLIN
Big Openings It is difficult to imagine adding to Berlin’s cultural bounty, but the Humboldt Forum stakes a claim. The complex has an exhibition program and accommodates both the Ethnological Museum and the Museum of Asian Art. humboldtforum.org. Elsewhere, Neue Nationalgalerie’s sixyear renovation is at last complete. The structure, refurbished by David Chipperfield Architects, showcases works by Picasso, Kandinsky and Dalí, among others. smb.museum.
SP OTLIGHT
Contemporary Spanish artist Cristina Iglesias has created site-specific installations, ranging from monumental bronze doors at Madrid’s Prado Museum to 14 steel-and-concrete jalousies submerged 46 feet underwater off Baja California. The fluidity of water and the materiality of bronze identify much of her work, as does the relationship between man and nature. Her most recent scultpure, Hondalea (Marine Abyss), is set in a lighthouse in San Sebastián, Spain. Opened in June, it re-creates the region’s rough landscape and seascape and, paradoxically, invites contemplation.
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LOS ANGELES
A Star Is Born (And Finds a Home) The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures, devoted to the arts, sciences and artists of moviemaking, has opened in a six-floor complex designed by Renzo Piano. Among its many cinematic treasures are a pair of Dorothy’s ruby slippers, a page from the script for To Kill a Mockingbird annotated by Gregory Peck, a creature head from Alien and a clapper board from Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. academymuseum.org.
PHOTO CREDITCHRIS VISITBERLIN, TKT MARTIN SCHOLL; JOSE LUIS LOPEZ DE ZUBIRIA; JOSH WHITE, JWPICTURES, ACADEMY MUSEUM FOUNDATION;
RETHINKING THE WORLD IN WATER AND BRONZE
SP OTLIGHT
A VIOLINIST’S NEW RECORD
JAMES FLORIO PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF THE DENVER ART MUSEUM; MUSEO NACIONAL DEL PRADO; MARCO BORGGREVE
In summer 1775, a 19-year-old Mozart wrote five concerti for violin and orchestra. Now almost 250 years later, he has an interpreter in Swiss violinist Sebastian Bohren, whose recent recording includes two of those five Mozartean wonders. Bohren recorded the pieces with the Chaarts ensemble, led by Gábor Takács-Nagy after he made his Lucerne Festival debut in 2018; unhappy with his performance, he undertook the unusual initiative to re-record the concerti with the same group during the pandemic. The result is a triumph, marked by Bohren’s purity of tone, insightful interpretation, bravura—and a spirited give-and-take between soloist and orchestra that marks the best music-making. sebastianbohren.ch.
MADRID
Prado News Neoclassical paintings by Goya and the luminous landscapes of Joaquín Sorolla hang alongside nearly 3,000 other 19th-century Spanish artworks at the Museo del Prado’s 15 newly reorganized galleries. The collections establish both a widened European context and global perspective: of 130 artists, the works of 57 are on display for the first time. Of these, 13 are women and 37 are foreign-born, including works by Filipino artists. museodelprado.es.
DENVER
Artistic Heights in the Mile High City The Denver Art Museum opened 50 years ago in the only building designed by the Italian visionary Gio Ponti in the United States. A $150 million investment provided for the recent restoration of Ponti’s striking high-rise, which reopens this fall. A new elliptical glass structure, the Sie Welcome Center, connects it to a building by Daniel Libeskind with African art and special exhibitions. denverartmuseum.org. 15
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Indagare Global Classroom News
Leuca harbor in Puglia, Italy. Above: Museum van Loon in Amsterdam.
•Fall Clubs Sign up on a prorated basis: Cooking with culinary guide Katie Parla: Craving Italy, through December 15 Art with art historian Page Knox: • Master Painters in Netherlandish Art, through December 14 • Masterpieces of French Art, through December 16 . •Winter Clubs Join the 2022 programs: Wellness: Mii amo at Home with Indagare A wellness reboot with healers and guides Art: The Medicis: Power and Patronage with art historian Elaine Ruffolo The Rise of the Avant Garde: The Painters of Modern Life with Page Knox History: Berlin Under Hitler: The Rise of the Third Reich, 1933 to 1945 with historian Jamie Sewell Coming Soon: Club Insider Journeys to Italy, France, Germany & more with our Club hosts Sign up at indagare.com/clubs 16 I N D A G A R E . C O M
•The Indagare Podcast Listen to Season 3 of our Global Conversations Podcast for more on…
• Trips of a Lifetime & Safaris: Indagare Founder Melissa Biggs Bradley • Food & Travel: Bon Appetit’s Dawn Davis; chef Marcus Samuelsson • Fashion & Style: Inès de la Fressange; Paskho’s Patrick Robinson; Every Mother Counts’s Christy Turlington Burns • Culture & Design: Writer Gay Gassmann, Director of the Ugandan Arts Trust Teesa Bahana • Adventure Travel & Conservation: Aquanaut Fabien Cousteau, Explorer Alison Levine • Travel & Risk-Taking: Middle East Journalist Becky Diamond • Wellness: Omega Institute’s Elizabeth Lesser Stream the Indagare Global Conversations Podcast wherever you get your podcasts. Learn more at indagare.com/ global-conversations-podcast
Orecchiette with burrata. Below: Club host Katie Parla with her book, Food of the Italian South.
Craving Italy?
Host of Indagare’s Fall Cooking Club Katie Parla on why she loves Italy, where to eat in Rome and more. “I’ve always been obsessed with Italy, and I moved in 2003 after graduating from Yale with a degree in art history. I thought I would perfect my Italian and start graduate studies in that subject, but got distracted by wine and food, earning my sommelier certification and a master’s in Italian gastronomic culture. For me, the people who make the food are more interesting than any one dish—I love learning about and telling people’s stories. But food is also an avenue to exploring subjects like history, linguistics, theology, migration and trade.”
PHOTO ED ANDERSON; CREDIT TKT REVA KELLER
Your favorite Italian dish? Pizza is my favorite food. I hesitate to call pizza an Italian dish because many cultures were eating flatbreads baked in wood-fired ovens thousands of years before the first oven in Naples was fired up in Roman antiquity. But the Italians have been skilled at marketing it as their own. I love the infinite nuances you can find in the dough, the sauce and the cheese, the complexity and beauty of fermentation and the science of the bake. My cookbook, The Joy of Pizza, with pizza genius Dan Richer, just came out.
Go-to apéritif? A Negroni Sbagliato with Cappelletti or Campari, or a sparkling wine like a Lambrusco from Angol d’Amig or a Prosecco Colfondò from Casa Belfi. Italian hidden gem? Molise is the best. It shares a border with Lazio, Abruzzo, Campania and Puglia and is less than two hours from Rome but gets no love. Most residents live in rural areas or tiny towns so there’s still a ton of local farming. The food is incredible—lots of wild greens, cheese and lamb. It’s a great place to drive and hike around for a week or more!
MY ROME FAVORITES For Roman comfort food: “Trattorias like Cesare al Casaletto, Armando al Pantheon and SantoPalato.” Must-try dish: “A simmered-beef sandwich at Mordi e Vai.” For Pizza: Pizza in teglia at Pizzarium For Gelato: Otaleg
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HELLO, NEW YORK
The Empire City is fully reopened, with nothing—and everything—to prove. This fall, a glittering parade of newcomers, from landmark hotels to cutting-edge restaurants and thrilling exhibitions, are proof that New York’s latest revival is one you won’t want to miss. Elizabeth Harvey reports.
SINCE THE EARLY glimmers of the spring, as vaccines were rolled out, curfews were rolled back and city dwellers dusted off the last snowflakes from doorsteps and outdoor dining yurts, locals and culture arbiters alike have speculated on a second coming of the Roaring Twenties—a New York brimming with excess and good times. Certainly, the last six months have seen the arrival of establishments dripping in enough Art Deco allure to elicit an approving nod from even Dorothy Parker—or have Fitzgerald calling for more Champagne—but we ought to know by now that New York’s gaze will never be fixed on the past. Her eyes are cast forward, and ever upward. Autumn, the season when the city really shines, has presented a burst of creativity that is entirely of the new era. Below are the openings to keep on your radar.
WHERE TO REST & REVIVE The arrival of the first Aman in New York (and the first East Coast property from the brand) by the end of the year represents the most anticipated addition to the city’s hotel offerings. The wellness haven will be located within the Crown Building, a Gilded Age jewel on Fifth Avenue overlooking Central Park that was the original home of MoMA. The property has been transformed by Jean-Michel
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Gathy to restore the original architecture while fusing the sleek and serene minimalism of the Aman brand with the glitz of the location. The three-story, over-7,500-squarefoot indoor-outdoor spa is the reason to come here (the pièce de résistance: an indoor swimming pool circled by firepits and daybeds), but guests are sure to linger at the jazz bar, wraparound terrace, Japanese and Italian restaurants and wine library (nor will the 83 rooms and suites disappoint). Another titan wellness brand is landing in 2022—with a lofty perch above the High Line in the buzzed-about XI Towers. The Six Senses New York will soothe urban minds and bodies with interiors by Parisian firm Gilles & Boissier and floor-to-ceiling river views. There will be two seasonal restaurants and the signature Six Senses spa program, housed within an 18,000-square-foot space (including a bathhouse with cold and saltwater plunge pools). An additional feature will be access to Six Senses Place, a 45,000-square-foot social club.
...New York is always hopeful. Always it believes that something good is about to come off, and it must hurry to meet it.” – Dorothy Parker
From Billionaires’ Row to Battery Park, other openings are serving up enough style and scene to shake up the established set. At 36 Central Park South, the Park Lane Hotel, opening this fall, has been conjured up by acclaimed firm Yabu Pushelberg to bring some Alice in Wonderland–like whimsy to its storied corner, along with murals by En Viu, 611 rooms and elevated dining and beverage concepts by insider Scott Sartiano (including a one-of-akind rooftop lounge with spectacular park views—and all within walking distance of the top uptown shopping and culture venues). Just as singular is the recently opened Casa Cipriani, designed by Thierry Despont and housed in the Beaux-Arts Battery Maritime Building—alongside a members’ club (to which guests have access). The property is intimate, with just 47 polished rooms—the best of which have terraces with views of the Statue of Liberty and Brooklyn Bridge; amenities include Cipriani dining venues and a wellness center. NoMad is another neighborhood to watch, thanks to a new Ritz-Carlton (opening later this year) that will occupy a shiny high-rise designed by architect Rafael Viñoly—and softened with plenty of outdoor terraces and greenery. Foodies will rejoice at the dining program, which is anchored by new outposts of José
PHOTO CREDIT SUMMIT ONE VANDERBILT TKT
Taking in the view from New York’s Summit One Vanderbilt.
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The chefs at Sixy Three Clinton. Clockwise, from above: The tasting manu at Sixty Three Clinton; the bar at SAGA; ceviche at One White Street; the exterior of One White Street.
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PHOTO CREDIT NICOLE FRANZEN; TKTGIADA PAOLONI; ADRIAN GAUT
S P OT L I G H T
Andrés’s acclaimed D.C. restaurant Zaytinya and the Bazaar in Miami; there are also rumors of a Champagne bar. Across the street, the familiarity of the Ritz-Carlton will be countered by a debut from Flâneur Hospitality, a new concept from real estate entrepreneur Alex Ohebshalom (opening in 2022). Within a historic building that was once the Second National Bank (as well as a former home of Gilded Age socialite Charlotte Goodridge)—and with an expansion into a 24-story glass tower—the Fifth Avenue Hotel will bring color and panache guaranteed to delight any visitors seeking novelty. Lovers of bold patterns, bright wallpapers, funky fixtures and objets d’art will be quite at home in any of the 153 rooms; standout accents include a mother-of-pearl-inlaid bar cart with reptilian handles, a fruit-filled blownglass chandelier and lamps in every form, from Chinese pagodas to Russian Fabergé eggs.
WHERE TO TASTE & IMBIBE
PHOTO CREDIT TKT
A handful of dazzling fine-dining restaurants are recharging the phrase “big night out”—while also bringing a degree of gravity to a scene that can sometimes appear stuck in a revolving door of Instagram trends. On the 63rd floor of Art Deco skyscraper 70 Pine Street in FiDi, SAGA was unveiled at the end of August and is helmed by the team behind Crown Shy (which has one Michelin star and occupies the ground floor of the same building). The space was originally designed as a lavish apartment, and the dining experience manifests the spirit of visiting the home of a friend with excellent taste. The elevator opens directly into the 56-seat dining room, while the entire restaurant spans four
floors, with one dedicated to Overstory, a cocktail lounge reached by a staircase, with a wraparound terrace that provides 360-degree views of the skyline. While dining, guests are welcomed into an interactive, convivial atmosphere that operates at the highest level yet feels far from stiff: There are no print menus; expect to hear current music; some courses are plated individually, others are served family-style—and still others, like a Moroccan tea service, are to be enjoyed throughout other areas of the dining space altogether. This is a reflection of the global influence of the founders’ travels and lives in New York City, though the foundations of SAGA are based on European artistry. For the overall wow factor, SAGA takes the crown. In Tribeca, One White Street combines the unique homeyness of New York City architecture—this time, in the form of a cozy townhouse once used by John Lennon and Yoko Ono— with seasonal cuisine. The majority of ingredients are organic and sourced from the restaurant’s own farm upstate, and this relationship touches every element of the meal, including cocktails like the Farm Stand. Downstairs, an à la carte experience is available for walk-ins, while reservations can be made upstairs for the chef ’s tasting. Every detail of One White Street is filled with soul—from the friendly and accommodating staff to the 1980s rock that plays throughout the space and the earthy décor (and enviable tableware). Imagine, a place to make your local haunt and cherished special-occasion venue.
LET US DESIGN YOUR TRIP. Call us at 212-988-2611 or visit indagare.com/go to plan your trip to New York City.
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Last but not least, Le Pavillon by Daniel Boulud in the One Vanderbilt skyscraper is the new address in Midtown. Le Pavillon has 11,000 square feet of dining space that has been transformed into a plaza of sensory delights; there is also a bar with views of Grand Central Station and the Chrysler Building, and a semi-private Garden Table where tasting experiences can be booked. With a seafood-and-vegetable-forward menu, Boulud aims to bring French fine dining into the present—hence, the notion of a restaurant within “a New York skyscraper living in harmony with nature.” After all, there will always be a little bit of Paris in New York.
WHERE TO WANDER & WONDER The city’s culture centers are finally back in full swing, and there’s no shortage of entertainment to discover. Architecture and design lovers may wish to pay a visit to Summit One Vanderbilt, which includes immersive observatory experiences like suspended glass viewing boxes and a multisensory Kenzo Digital art installation. At the Metropolitan Museum of Art, several exciting exhibitions will round out the autumn calendar. In the wake of the Met Gala, the Costume Institute’s “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion” (through September 5,
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2022) will shed light on the beauty of the patchwork quilt. “Surrealism Beyond Borders” (now–January 30, 2022) and “Before Yesterday We Could Fly: An Afrofuturist Period Room” (opens November 5, 2021) will bring deconstructed perspectives that can serve us well in these unprecedented times. “Inspiring Walt Disney: The Animation of French Decorative Arts” (December 10, 2021–March 6, 2022) will trace the aesthetic of beloved characters and settings (like the Beauty and the Beast castle) back to the salons of Rococo Paris. “Jasper Johns: Mind/Mirror” brings the most comprehensive retrospective of the artist’s work yet to the Whitney through February 13, 2022, while Wassily Kandinsky and Etel Adnan exhibitions at the Guggenheim, both open now, show how identity and sociopolitical context shape form. On now through February 20 at the Brooklyn Museum, “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams” traces the history and influence of the iconic fashion house with displays of over 200 haute couture pieces, sketches and more. Live performances returned to the Metropolitan Opera on September 27, and the New York City Ballet is back at Lincoln Center. The lineup reflects a range of choreographers, from cofounders George Balanchine and Jerome Robbins to Sidra Bell, who made history in 2020 as the first Black woman to create an original work for the company. Plus: The Nutcracker will return on November 26! Looking ahead to 2023, the Ronald O. Perelman Performing Arts Center at the World Trade Center will create a home for emerging and well-known artists in theater, music and film. And that’s all just the beginning.
The last six months have seen the arrival of establishments dripping in enough Art Deco allure to elicit an approving nod from even Dorothy Parker— or have Fitzgerald calling for more Champagne.”
PHOTO CREDIT TKT
Across town, friends Raymond Trinh and Michelin-starred chef Samuel Clonts opened Sixty Three Clinton within an unassuming building with a hint of Lower East Side grit. The New American tasting experience, with à la carte options (coming soon), demonstrates Japanese and Mediterranean influences, with one-of-a-kind dishes including the ajitama breakfast taco, the tomato agnolotti with Calabrian chili and the caviar hand roll. Try to snag one of the 10 chef ’scounter seats facing the open kitchen.
Clockwise from far left: The view from the Six Senses New York; the Christian Dior show at the Brooklyn Museum; Bar Chandelier at Le Pavillon.
Broadway is Back! BY MARIO MERCADO
PHOTO LE PAVILLON CREDIT TKT
Theater returns with new works, postponed productions and muchanticipated revivals.・Six, a pop musical about the ill-fated wives of King Henry VIII, is a top ticket. Brooks Atkinson Theater; open now. The comedy Chicken and Biscuits is set at a funeral, where nothing goes as planned. Circle in the Square Theatre; open now. Conor McPherson’s Girl from the North Country takes place during the Depression, in a boardinghouse whose residents cross paths and face the era’s challenges, and is enhanced through the songs of Bob Dylan. Belasco Theatre; open now.・Flying over Sunset is a new musical that sounds like an old Milton Berle joke: Cary Grant, Aldous Huxley and Clare Booth Luce are in a California beach house in the 1950s—and on an acid trip. Lincoln Center Theater; from November 11.・MJ tells the story of the life, music and creative process of Michael Jackson. Neil Simon Theater; Flying over opens December 6.・The longSunset awaited Broadway revival of The Music Man stars Hugh Jackman in the title role. Winter Garden Theatre; previews December 20. Plus: Don’t miss the showstopping debut of the Museum of Broadway next summer.
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MARCUS BY THE SEA With the opening of his new restaurant in Nassau, we caught up with chef Marcus Samuelsson to learn more about what’s on the menu, how travel inspires the way he cooks—and much more.
How did you choose the Bahamas for your newest project—Marcus at Baha Mar Fish + Chop House and Marcus Up Top? I’ve loved visiting the Bahamas for years, so it’s truly a dream come true to open a restaurant here. The warm Bahamian hospitality, culture and traditions are what first drew me in, but also of course, the access to fantastic, fresh Caribbean ingredients—the fishing, the farming and produce…. Beyond the menu, having a restaurant right in front of the water that features different venues—the garden, the dining room and the rooftop bar, Marcus Up Top—extends an experiential oceanfront dining outlet for guests of Baha Mar as well as visitors and locals alike.
Marcus at Baha Mar Fish + Chop House is a celebration of flavors, paying homage to traditional Bahamian dishes and ingredients native to the Bahamas. Our flavors are also derived from and inspired by my Ethiopian and Swedish heritage, along with influences from Red Rooster in Harlem, New York. The eclectic menu explodes with Caribbean flavor through our latest take on comfort-food classics.
What’s your favorite trip that you’ve taken just for the food? My favorite trip for the food was to Japan. I loved eating fugu [pufferfish] in Japan and the vegetarian tasting menu at Beige Alain Ducasse—both were very memorable and delicious experiences.
We love the comfort food on your menus— have you found yourself cooking more (or less) because of Covid? Since Covid, my family and I have increased the amount of vegetarian and plant-based dishes we eat. It was such a comfort to have wholesome and nourishing meals while surrounded by family at home. We cooked a lot of Ethiopian food!
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We know your heritage inspires your cooking. How has travel influenced the choices you make in the kitchen? Travel inspires my cooking in so many ways. You can learn so much from the terroir of a place, the local cuisines—and by speaking with the purveyors and farmers. I’m inspired by flavors that incorporate a balance of salt, sweet, sour, bitter and umami. A dish is most exciting to me when it delivers an incredible flavor, beautiful aesthetic and an exciting texture. The flavors that are most impactful tell a story from start to finish and take you on a culinary journey.
Your favorite dish on your new menu? I have many favorites on the menu and tend to gravitate toward the seafood dishes since they’re locally caught. I was excited to highlight the seafood since I grew up eating lots of it in Sweden. I knew the seafood had to be a major component—especially after learning so much from the local fishermen in the area.
For you, what is the greatest gift of travel? Meeting new people and experiencing new flavors is definitely the highlight. Growing up, the culinary options were very homogeneous, so I owe a large part of my culinary success to traveling. Hear more from Marcus Samuelsson on the Indagare Podcast.
WARREN GRANT
If the restaurant had a flavor profile, what would it be?
PHOTO CREDIT ANOTHY THALIER; TKTMARCUS AT BAHA MAR FISH + CHOP HOUSE
Marcus at Baha Mar in Nassau. Clockwise from below, right: Crab cakes; avocado toast. Opposite: The bar at Marcus Up Top.
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B E H I N D
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THE MAKING OF SAFARI STYLE
Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley set out to capture the character—and characters—behind a new generation of safari camps that have transformed tourism across seven African countries. Here’s a sneak peek of the results.
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Behind the Scenes with Guido Taroni, photographer of Safari Style “When it came to capturing these camps, I knew Guido was the photographer for the job,” says Indagare’s Melissa Biggs Bradley. “He spent months traveling all over Africa, experiencing each property, going out on early-morning game drives and then going out again to capture the light. He didn’t want to miss anything—so it was really as much about his eye and his heart that made him the right person for this book.” Here, Guido shares his side of the story. This was your first time in the bush. Did it live up to your expectations? I love colors, nature and animals and I was so excited to go for the first time on safari and see live animals that you usually see in documentaries or in books! When I was there, I really felt that I was part of another world—the smells are strong, the silence mixed with the sounds of the animals, the most beautiful sky, full of stars I have never seen…
You’ve done a book on Tangier, but how is shooting safari lodges and wildlife different from shooting still lifes, fashion and interiors?
Safari Style: Exceptional African Camps & Lodges (Vendome Press) is available in bookstores now.
This book is a mix of interiors, landscapes and wildlife photography, so every page is a surprise! With wildlife…most of all you need
GUIDO TARONI
IN HER NEW BOOK, Safari Style, Exceptional African Camps & Lodges, Melissa Biggs Bradley showcases the incredible locations and innovations of Africa’s next generation of safari camps from Rwanda to South Africa, with the help of photographer Guido Taroni. “I was lucky I got to go on my first safari when I was 12,” says Melissa. “My grandparents had fallen completely in love with being in the African bush when it was first opening for photographic safaris, and they went many times. My grandmother took me all over Kenya, and that first trip probably had a lot to do with making me such a committed traveler at an early age. With Safari Style, I wanted to show the evolution of safari and celebrate the ways safaris benefit local communities. To be an integral part of helping to conserve wildlife and wild places is incredibly inspiring. Becoming stewards of places that impact us should be an essential part of travel. That’s true whether you go to Venice or Botswana, but it is incredibly well illustrated in how these camps have been designed.” Her only frustration: not being able to showcase them all…. “I hope the book will inspire you to go to the African bush to experience the animals and all the kinds of places you can stay and to be part of what’s happening there—and maybe you will get as addicted as I am to returning again and again and to being part of this amazingly positive story.”
Becoming stewards of places that impact us should be an essential part of travel. ”
PHOTO CREDIT SINGITA FARU FARU; TKT SINGITA MARA RIVER CAMP; TENGILE RIVER LODGE
A tent at Singita Faru Faru in Tanzania. Clockwise, from above: Melissa at Segera Retreat in Kenya; a room detail at Singita Mara River Tented Camp in Tanzania; an elephant in South Africa.
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Dunes in Namibia. Below: A cheetah in South Africa. Opposite: A tent at San Camp in Botswana.
a lot of patience…. Sometimes you need to wait hours to have a nice shot…. To reach every place I had to fly for hours every day—I visited seven countries, took 23 flights and spent practically innumerable hours driving! In total, I stayed about two months. I felt like I was in a dream. To see Africa from above, sitting in those little planes, is something that also helped me a lot during lockdown. Sometimes I closed my eyes to see again those landscapes, colors and animals…. I hope there will be a part two someday!
You know you’re in Africa when... The sun rises in the morning! It’s so big and orange—really like in The Lion King!
Most unexpected moment of your travels? When my ranger asked me to get off the jeep to show me some tracks, and then he surprised me—after a little walk we were face-to-face with two magnificent cheetahs. I was
petrified, but I hid that feeling. The animals watched us, and they fell asleep some minutes after! Fortunately, their stomachs were full! I’ll never forget that moment.
How did your travel to Africa this time change your perspective on the way you “see” the world through your lens? I think the famous mal d’Afrique is really a thing. Once you go there—not as a photographer but as a human being—you come back different. For a photographer, it’s even more strong…. your inspiration there is constantly alive.
Your favorite part of the trip? Visiting Rwanda, an incredible land. I was in Volcanoes National Park, where the weather constantly changes, the vegetation is so green and there’s one of the most beautiful lodges I have ever seen. In this camp I had the chance to make a special trip… walking for some hours in the forest, I met our ancestors, the gorillas. I had eye contact with one of them for many seconds and I was very touched by the exchange of emotion that I had. You really understand that we descend from them.
Your favorite camera? I always shoot with Canon, and I shot the whole book with an Eos 5D Mark 4. Also having the new iPhone was great to make funny videos from the moment I left Milan until my last day in Africa. You can see them in my saved Instagram stories at @guidotaroniphotographer.
Maybe I am attracted to the pattern of their fur…I am fascinated by leopards and cheetahs.
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TENGILE RIVER LODGE
Do you have an African spirit animal?
PHOTO SAN CAMP CREDIT TKT
I felt like I was in a dream. To see Africa from above, sitting in those little planes, is something that also helped me a lot during lockdown.”
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Discovery. Insights. Community. The travel landscape may
services for all our guests.) In turn, those who are willing
have changed, but these core elements of our inside-access,
to meet this moment are rewarded by unforgettable
small-group trips haven’t. Our journeys celebrate the beauty
experiences on the ground, with fewer crowds and deeper
of exploring passions and making discoveries while seeing
immersion in places both wild and dazzling. Whether on
the world together. With continuously shifting border
expeditions to the untouched steppes of Mongolia and
policies and new challenges to the travel experience, it’s
the glittering ice fields of Antarctica, or on grand tours of
more valuable than ever to have a team of experts—and local
cultural treasure troves like Stockholm, Florence and Paris,
hosts—to guide you every step of the way. (For instance,
we hope you’ll join us in 2022 to be among the first wave of
that’s why we’ve added complimentary enrollment in Global
explorers rediscovering the pleasures of getting back out
Rescue’s emergency medical, security and evacuation
into our wonderful world.
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EBONY SIOVHAN, PINK PALM STUDIO
2022
Where We’re Going in 2022
Explore highlights from our 2022 calendar, including signature itineraries hosted by Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley and other insiders, as well as exclusive curations crafted with premier partners like WSJ. Magazine.
Noble Beauty: Art and History in Florence and Siena April 3 – 9, 2022 | Hosted by Elaine Ruffolo Tuscany is the birthplace of the Renaissance, as well as some of history’s most prolific artists and most beautiful cities. In the company of art historian Elaine Ruffolo, gain special access to the most storied palazzos and churches of the region while exploring in Florence and Siena. Together, you’ll trace the footsteps of Michelangelo and the Medici, marvel at priceless works of painting and sculpture and meet with modern-day nobility who will introduce you to top artisans, eateries and more.
ALEXIS DAFLOS, IMAGEBANK.SWEDEN.SE
Stockholm Style & Design June 7 – 12, 2022 | Hosted by WSJ. Magazine’s Sarah Medford and Melissa Biggs Bradley The Swedish capital balances past and present with Scandinavian aplomb. On this journey, experience the city’s renowned design, fashion and architecture scenes, meeting with insightful locals along the way—including leading architects, art historians and curators. Plus, tour revered galleries and museums and visit historic palaces, grand homes and cutting-edge design shops, including the world-famous Svenskt Tenn, Drottningholm Palace and the Indagare-adored hotel Ett Hem.
Wild Mongolia August 16 – 26, 2022 | Hosted by Melissa Biggs Bradley Mongolia is the world’s least-densely populated country, but it abounds with ancient history and natural wonders, from the oldest national park on the planet (where dinosaur bones are still discovered) to the extremely rare Bactrian camel. On this journey, venture with Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley into the wilds of the steppes and deserts—where you will meet Mongol warriors and Kazakh Golden Eagle hunters, who maintain centuries-old ways of life—for an unforgettable discovery of a world that transcends time.
LEA R N MOR E A ND BOOK NOW: INDAGA R E.COM/INSIDER JOUR NEYS
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“I cannot say enough nice things about our trip. It was beautiful from start to finish, and every moment well planned and executed. I am grateful to have been a part of the group.” – A traveler on the 2021 trip to the Italian Dolomites
“Pure Magic.” – A traveler on the 2021 trip to Jordan
“I enjoyed the trip so much and found that travel overseas is very manageable during Covid. Thanks to Melissa and Indagare for creating a trip that tempted me over the Atlantic again.”
“I joined the trip to experience Morocco, a land that always fascinated me, but I came away with treasured friendships. Indagare is for travelers from all walks of life. I never felt so comfortable and welcome. I was truly embraced.” – Nicole Palesano on the 2021 trip to Morocco 32 I N D A G A R E . C O M
PHOTO CREDIT TKT
– Carol Keys on the 2021 trip to Paris
2022
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South of France Art & Design September 15 – 20, 2022 | Hosted by WSJ. Magazine’s Sarah Medford and Melissa Biggs Bradley An inspirational haven to some of the world’s greatest artists and architects, from Van Gogh and Cézanne to Le Corbusier and Tadao Ando, the South of France is steeped in glamour and beauty. As you wind your way through spectacular sun-kissed landscapes and along idyllic azure coasts, you will have incredible access to exceptional art foundations and towns, meeting with local insiders, visiting private houses and gardens and tracing the evolution of art, style and design from the Roman to the contemporary. Plus: Enjoy an added focus on gastronomy and viticulture.
Paris Eternal and Extraordinaire September 2022 (Dates to be announced) | Hosted by the Institute of Classical Architecture & Art Savor the ultimate experience of the City of Light’s most iconic neighborhoods and monuments with the Institute of Classical Architecture & Art. Highlights include special receptions and meals at private residences; dinner on the Seine aboard a private yacht; historical tours of Île de la Cité and the Marais; access to secret gardens, galleries and Michelin-starred restaurants; and behind-the-scenes visits at Versailles, the Bourse de Commerce, the Opera Garnier and beyond.
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QUESTIONS? EM A IL OUR TEA M: INSIDER JOUR NEYS@INDAGA R E.COM
IWAN BAAN, COURTESY LUMA ARLES
A Taste of Modena with Massimo Bottura September 20 – 23, 2022 | Hosted by WSJ. Magazine’s Gabe Ulla and Melissa Biggs Bradley Join WSJ. for a tour with celebrity chef, entrepreneur and contemporary art aficionado Massimo Bottura, who will invite you into the world-famous cuisine and heritage of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region. While based in Massimo’s hometown of Modena—a city revered for its Balsamic Vinegar, as well as iconic brands like Ferrari and Maserati—and while staying at his new boutique hotel, Casa Maria Luigia, you will gain behind-the-scenes access to the three-Michelin-starred chef ’s world and much more.
2022
Kenya Safari: The Last of The Big Tuskers October 6 – 15, 2022 | Hosted by James Currie Join elephant conservation expert and television host James Currie for a once-in-a-lifetime safari in Kenya to see the last of the big tusker elephants. Fewer than 20 of these elephants are believed to be left in the world—and you’ll be able to venture into off-limits reserves to find (and help protect) them, while staying at some of our favorite luxury lodges in the area, including Ol Donyo and Mara Plains Camp.
GREAT PLAINS CONSERVATION (OL DONYO)
Antarctica Awaits November 8 – 21, 2022 | Hosted by Melissa Biggs Bradley Travel to the ends of the earth to explore the White Continent and discover the majesty of this icy frontier on an unforgettable adventure through sea and snow aboard the state-of-the-art Ultramarine expedition yacht, all while in the company of biologists, glaciologists and environmentalists who know just how special—and vulnerable—Antarctica truly is. Highlights include zodiac sailing excursions, hiking trips and helicopter flight-seeing to catch a glimpse of giant icebergs rising out of the ocean, killer whales on the hunt and charming penguins building their rookeries across the snow.
COMING SOON Our team is busy creating a collection of fantastic new trips to be released in the coming months. Email us at insiderjourneys@indagare.com or visit our website at indagare.com/insiderjourneys to be the first to receive the itineraries. Plus: Contact us to inquire about customizing any of these experiences for your own private adventure.
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A Night at the Château
PHOTO KEMPS RENÉE CREDIT TKT
Airelles Château de Versailles Le Grand Contrôle, the brand-new hotel set within France’s Château de Versailles, may well showcase the future of experiential travel, says Melissa Biggs Bradley.
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PHOTO CREDIT TKT
A view of the Orangery gardens at Versailles.
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T
HE HALL OF MIRRORS is known the world over. Even those who have never set eyes on Louis XIV’s gilded extravaganza of self-expression (or self-importance, depending on your point of view) can imagine the Baroque-style gallery from books, movies (Marie Antoinette), TV (Versailles), even electro-pop (Kraftwerk’s “Spiegelsaal”). However, a little-known fact is that during Louis XIV’s times, the fabled hall was hardly ever empty. It was designed to be a showstopper for crowds. Nobles, artists, soldiers, scientists and anyone with ambition or value to the Sun King mingled here. It was a place to be received by the King and to rub shoulders with the noteworthy. “It was built for lots of people,” says historian Bertrand Rondot. “It was where the courtiers would spend their days, looking to see the King or Queen, hoping to get a smile from them.”
Six years and many millions of dollars in the making, Les Airelles Château de Versailles Le Grand Contrôle is arguably the biggest hotel news of the decade. Not for its size. It features only 14 rooms and suites. Nor for its groundbreaking style. It is more of a faithful restoration of an 18th-century building than a style statement. (Its French architects, artisans and designers vetted almost every detail with the historians of Versailles to ensure period accuracy.) The “wow” here is that the hotel is located in an original building on the grounds of Versailles; the hotel makes history by making history immersive. Liveried footmen greet you at the towering arched doorway to usher you across a courtyard and into a hall decorated with royal portraits, gilt mirrors and Sèvres porcelain. (Ninety percent of the furniture is 18th-century antiques.) Guest rooms are swathed in Pierre Frey fabrics that are printed
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Burrata and spring vegetables at the Alain Ducasse restaurant. Clockwise, from above: A bedroom at Le Grand Contrôle; the bathroom of the Necker Suite; the empty Hall of Mirrors at Versailles.
PHOTO CREDIT ATELIER MAI 98TKT
I thought of the crowds—both from Louis XIV’s past and more recent, pre-Covid days—as I stood in the Hall of Mirrors completely alone during a recent trip to France. Sunlight streamed through the windows, and was refracted by the chandeliers and mirrors, making the hall appear as if it had been dipped in molten gold. I walked across the parquet floors slowly, savoring the details—the incredible craftsmanship of the boiserie; the soaring painted ceiling; the exquisite mirror panels (produced for the King in the 1600s by Venetian craftsmen)—and the quiet. I had one of the world’s greatest cultural treasures to myself. Unforgettable experience is an overused expression, but this was one, and it was made even sweeter, because I knew that, come the evening, I would be spending the night at Versailles. Smiles from the King and Queen, indeed.
PHOTO KEMPS RENÉE CREDIT TKT
Sunlight streamed through the windows, and was refracted by the chandeliers and mirrors, making the hall appear as if it had been dipped in molten gold.“
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“For the high price of the rooms, I wasn’t impressed by the bathroom,” sniffed a Parisian friend who had been invited for lunch and a tour. “They have nothing on the Ritz bathrooms.” “But I loved how in keeping with the experience it was,” I countered, fondly recalling my oak washstand. “Wasn’t it wonderful how it felt like a true annex of the Palace visit?” It was then she admitted that she hadn’t experienced the heart of a visit: the private, after-hours tours of Versailles. A few hours after checking in, each guest at Le Grand Contrôle can enter the private apartments of Versailles after the monument has closed. For two hours, a curator leads an exploration of the Palace of Versailles. We visited the restored royal chapel, the King’s apartments and the Hall of Mirrors, which is included with every booking. After touring the family chapel and bedrooms, peeking into
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Above, from left: Room details; the Orangery. Opposite: The main staircase at the hotel.
the King’s library and locked desk and returning via the 2,000-acre gardens, it was impossible not to feel dropped into a fairy-tale evening. And it continued with an Alain Ducasse dinner on the terrace, heralded by trumpets and delivered by waiters in brocade uniforms. When women in gowns came to invite us to a game of whist after dinner, I did think it a tad Disneyesque; but I quickly fell back under the spell of the moment. Harpsichord music played under the stars as we retired to a candlelit salon for tea and a crash course in whist. Experiential luxury has become a travel buzzword, with many hotels tacking on special experiences, but this truly is a once-in-a-lifetime privilege. No Instagram photo can capture staying in the grand scale or stupendous beauty of the Sun King’s vision for a full 24 hours. Because after sleeping in hallowed halls comes a French breakfast and another visit—either to the Grand Trianon, the Petit Trianon or the Hameau de la Reine before they open to the public. Our morning visit was to the Grand Trianon, which Louis XIV had built as a private retreat to escape his 2,300-room dream palace. The nobles that he had hoped to attract from Paris to Versailles, as a young king, flocked in such
RENÉE KEMPS; CHÂTEAU DE VERSAILLES
with historical patterns sourced from the palace archives, and have been updated with modern comforts like minibars tucked into armoires. Nowhere are the cookie-cutter marble bathrooms of most modern five-star hotels; the aesthetic remains authentic 18th-century.
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But it was in visiting the Trianon, which though a minor hideout for Louis XIV is still an impressive palace, that I began to imagine the King’s presence. Walking beneath a marble peristyle, I could almost envision Louis appearing to meet us, eager to discuss the arts, science and literature. At Versailles, I would have imagined him pompous, bold and onstage, but here at the Trianon, designed for quieter, more reflective moments, he might have been approachable. Why am I feeling the Sun King through his buildings? I wondered. And then I realized the real magic of Le Grand Contrôle: it puts history and its fashioners within reach. It offers an experience so immersive that it allows you to imagine a conversation with a king across centuries. Yes, that is an unforgettable hotel stay.
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A bust of Louis XIV in the Hall of Mirrors. Above: The Necker Suite.
RENÉE KEMPS
numbers to his world-renowned court that in his later years, he commissioned his favorite architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart (who also designed the building of Le Grand Contrôle) to fashion an idyllic escape, smaller in scale and less formal, so he could relax away from the crowds. There is no question that being virtually alone in the art-filled main palace, which delivered the kind of pinch-yourself moments that inspired one of our group to announce 10 minutes into our visit, “These minutes alone are worth the price of a room!” offers another major “wow” factor.
Keys to Visiting Versailles
Getting There: Southwest of Paris, Versailles can be reached by car or train in about 40 minutes. It’s closer to Orly than to Charles de Gaulle airport.
When to Go: From April to October, special
events are arranged on the Versailles estate, including musical concerts and fountain and fireworks shows. In the winter, concerts and cultural performances take place in the royal opera house and chapel. Book a Saturday night between June and September to see the fireworks over the gardens. Remember the Palace of Versailles is closed on Mondays, so you will feel more alone in the Palace, but you won’t be able to supplement your explorations with public visits.
Ideal Length of Stay: As the private
visits rotate among the King’s, Queen’s and State apartments in the evenings—and in the mornings, among the Petit Trianon, Grand Trianon and the Hameau (and the schedule is not set in advance)—to experience all of the options, you will need to book three nights, but even an overnight is worth the trip!
What to Pack: A bathing suit for the indoor pool
and elegant clothes. You are at a palace after all—the surroundings merit glamorous clothing.
Room Surprise: There are no televisions in the
rooms, so bring a laptop or request a TV in advance, if you must watch something during your stay.
What to Book in Advance: At an additional cost, you
can book experiences like a Marie Antoinette dress-up party, with costumes from the series Versailles and a photo shoot, a meal in the former apartments of Louis XIV’s daughters, or a tour of the Queen’s vegetable garden, followed by a cooking class.
What to Read/Watch in Advance: Marie
Antoinette and Love and Louis XIV by Antonia Fraser; Dairy Queens by Meredith Martin; and the TV series Versailles.
Who Should Stay: Couples, friends and families.
Let Us Design Your Trip. Our travels can inspire and inform yours. To start planning for Versailles, contact our team: Call us at 212-988-2611 or visit indagare.com/go to plan your trip to Versailles.
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Hidden Tangier
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In North Africa’s “White City,” a new generation of creatives and expats is reimagining its fantastical riads and gardens and putting down roots. Melissa Biggs Bradley takes a tour.
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K
nown as the Door of Africa, the white-walled city of Tangier is best explored in the company of insiders. World-renowned British antiques collector Gordon Watson spent years transforming a house and large garden in the Palace district and filling them with treasures. Opposite: Tangier dates to the 14th century and its medina has many narrow lanes.
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Treasures Galore With rooms teeming with textiles, antiquities and art that its owner has gathered on his world travels, the Tangier house of Gordon Watson also serves as a showroom and storeroom for his finds.
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Unless, that is, they are invited into the residences of Tangier’s current-day accidentals. For in addition to some of the original “breed of western Tangerines”—like Prentice and Italian writer Umberto Pasti—that Blake notes is now thinning out, there are a host of creatives adding to its ranks, like Creel and Gow founder Jamie Creel and his partner Marco Sarcani; interior designers Frank de Biasi and Gene Meyer; and British antiques dealer Gordon Watson. They have salvaged riads and fashioned seaside retreats, bringing new glamour to Morocco. In his foreward to the 2019 book Inside Tangier: Houses & Gardens, Pasti explains, “Our Tangier is still alive thanks to its atmosphere, the kindness and eccentricity of its inhabitants and something that… I can only define as ‘the spirit of decoration.’” That spirit is on display throughout the interiors of this unique community that is just waiting to be discovered.
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ANY of my favorite destinations are places with a community of fantastic people. Within hours of arriving in Tangier, to scout the city for this fall’s Insider Journey, I knew that it was such a spot. Longtime resident Elena Prentice refers to the city’s genre of expats as “accidentals,” using a previously coined term for those who found themselves in the White City and embraced it with a passion. Writers Paul and Jane Bowles were certainly the most famous of this set. As the author John Blake wrote in his memoir of growing up in Tangier, The Bigger Circle, “the conditions that attracted ‘accidentals’ to the international city of Tangier from the 1920s to the golden age of the 1950s is history. The story, and the city, has moved on, though,” he notes. “The free-wheeling, anything-goes city with a sleazy reputation, a sort of Shanghai on the Mediterranean, is gone.” In recent decades, its corniche has added an industrial port and such congested traffic that a visitor could miss any vestige of the city’s romance.
Where to Shop
Las Chicas boutique, is one of a handful of shops in the old part of town. Its owner specializes in contemporary Moroccan fashion and housewares, while other boutiques mix in or focus on regional antiques and objects.
Mediterranean Medina
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Tangier has a subtropical climate with warm summers and mild winters, so you’ll see bougainvillea growing over its whitewashed walls and riads.
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Gardens with a View Similar in climate to the South of France or Santa Barbara, Tangier has many gardens that face the Mediterranean Sea.
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What to Visit The American Legation. The oldest continuously operated American diplomatic property, this landmark commemorates Morocco as the first country to recognize the independence of America and has been recently refreshed by interior designers Bunny Williams and Frank de Biasi, who mixed antiques with Moroccan crafts.
Key to the Casbah The Bab el Assa Gate, the famous arch painted by Henri Matisse, sits at Tangier’s southern wall. Much of the ancient city has been recently restored, including its ramparts.
A Day at the Market The markets of the medina, the old walled city in Tangier, sell everything from vegetables and fish to textiles and spices such as cumin and saffron, which are often sold alongside dried rose petals or orange blossom water.
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Tale of Two Gardens Italian writer and horticulturist Umberto Pasti has created two fabulous gardens—one at this villa in Tangier (right and below) and another, Rohuna, an hour outside the city on the coast, which he has chronicled in two books, Lost in Paradise and Eden Revisited.
House Proud “There’s a central energy,” Frank de Biasi has said of Tangier and his home here, “where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean, where Europe meets Africa. It’s a psychic point like no other place.”
Travel to Tangier How to arrive: Royal Air Maroc offers regular direct flights from New York and D.C. to Casablanca, which is a 3.5-hour drive. It is also possible to fly via Madrid, Paris and London directly to Tangier. When to visit: Gardens are at their best in April and May. Summer brings lovely beach weather, many European visitors and hot days. Fall sees the crowds and heat ease. Winter can be cool and wet. Where to stay: Unlike its sister city Marrakech, Tangier has no fivestar hotels. The best way to visit is as a guest of someone who owns a villa or on our next Insider Journey, where you will be invited into private houses and gardens to meet the owners. For an itinerary and to learn more, contact insiderjourneys@indagare.com.
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Heli-skiing at Deplar Farm in Iceland.
“How big is the world, how big and how wonderful,” wrote Gertrude Bell in an 1892 letter to her cousin. These words ring especially true after a year in which that big world lay out of reach to travelers. As destinations reopen, and as we once again consider exploring their wonders, the options are—almost—limitless. What gets you out in the world? Whether you’re a culture buff or a #willtravelforfood gourmand, an alpinist or sunseeker, these are eight destinations Indagare members should consider for fall and winter, in 2021 and beyond. Peter Schlesinger reports. 52 I N D A G A R E . C O M
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Travel by Passion
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Napa and Sonoma CALIFORNIA
food
&
wine
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PHOTOSEASONS FOUR CREDIT TKT NAPA VALLEY; MONTAGE HEALDSBURG, CHRISTIAN HORAN PHOTOGRAPHY
Sunset at the Four Seasons. Above, from left: A fruit plate at Hazel Hill; salmon at Hazel Hill.
Napa and Sonoma host a staggering 12 Michelin stars, and more may be on the way. At the new Four Seasons Resort Napa Valley in Calistoga, executive chef Erik Anderson and other alumni from San Francisco favorites Coi, Quince and Gary Danko are running the kitchens at TRUSS. Menus showcase local produce (including caviar from California white sturgeon), and the 250-label wine list highlights Calistoga, including bottles from Elusa, the onsite winery led by Thomas Rivers Brown. Also of note: Montage Healdsburg opened in Sonoma, bringing terroir-to-table cuisine at its Hazel Hill restaurant; Meadowood is making its return, with plans to reopen its three-Michelin-starred restaurant this January after being destroyed in a wildfire; and at MacArthur Place, near downtown Sonoma, meals at Mediterranean-inspired Layla Restaurant have shifted to more locavore, thanks to a new chef’s garden.
Bahia Vik in José Ignacio. Below: La Susana, the beach restaurant at Bahia Vik.
beach
José Ignacio URUGUAY
VIK RETREATS
Beginning in November, international arrivals should at long last be able to return to Uruguay. The planned reopening comes just in time for the summer season in José Ignacio, one of the world’s most glamorously laid-back beach towns. Latin America’s beautiful people converge here for languorous days in the sun, toes-in-the-sand dinner parties and late-night stargazing (from villas that seem plucked from the pages of Architectural Digest). It’s like the Hamptons—but with better steak. Where you’ll find us: poolside at any of the three art-filled Indagare Index properties from Vik Retreats scattered across town. Bahia Vik and Playa Vik, about half a mile from each other on the beach, are optimal for quick access to the boho-chic shops and excellent restaurants in town. And 15 minutes inland, toward chef Francis Mallmann’s restaurant Garzón, Estancia Vik is a bucolic hacienda.
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Big Sky MONTANA Big Sky has some seriously impressive stats: 5,850 skiable acres, a vertical drop of 4,350 feet (second in the United States only to Telluride) and a staggering 400 inches of snowfall annually—that’s more than double what Aspen typically receives. The Montana resort has remained an anti-sceney alternative to nearby Jackson Hole, Wyoming, for decades, and its uncrowded pistes—with around two acres per skier on a busy day—attract both beginners and advanced mountaineers. Up until now, however, there hasn’t been a hotel Indagare felt comfortable recommending. Enter Montage Big Sky, a timber-clad, oversize chalet opening December 15. While the exterior is full alpine, interiors are urban-sleek with variegated stone countertops, light-wood furnishings and mohair sofas. Guests will be able to enjoy two pools, robust spa offerings and, most importantly, ski-in, ski-out access to the area’s 300 runs. That’s big news for Big Sky.
Powder skiing in Montana.
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PHOTOENGERBRETSON, JEFF CREDIT TKT BIG SKY RESORT
ski
Souk carpets in Marrakech. Below, from left: homemade purses; color pigments at the souk.
shopping
Marrakech MOROCCO
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In the maze of streets comprising Marrakech’s centuries-old medina, souks are filled with leatherwork, carpets and spices. Beyond the historic core, neighborhoods like Mouassine, Bab Doukkala and Gueliz are home to boutiques and galleries that offer a more relaxed atmosphere. In many shops, browsing is accompanied by a glass of fresh mint tea. All the more reason to visit between November and March, when the soaring temperatures of summer have lowered. One must-visit: the just-reopened bookstore at the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. Inspired by the designer’s first boutique in Paris, the store has red-lacquered walls and books on fashion, style, Morocco and YSL himself, along with jewelry and posters. Visit Indagare.com for our full shopping guide to Marrakech.
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The view from a tent at Nayara, in Costa Rica’s northern highlands.
wellness
Costa Rica is the perfect destination for a restful getaway at a dreamy resort. In the country’s interior, with the Arenal Volcano towering nearby, Nayara Resorts have new three- and five-day itineraries inspired by the four elements. Activities include thermal spring baths, mud massages, and aerial canopy walks across hanging bridges. On the Papagayo Peninsula, Indagare loves Kasiiya Papagayo, a one-of-a-kind eco-luxury retreat with five tented suites in a dry tropical forest. But the year’s most exciting arrival is Hacienda AltaGracia, an Auberge Resort, which re-opens under Auberge in November amid the coffee farms and rain forests of the Talamanca foothills. It has partnered with the Well on holistic wellness offerings, including a fourhour river bath, starring wild bergamot treatments and an in-river massage table.
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VANCOUVER PORTRAIT ADVENTURE AND ATHLETE PHOTOGRAPHER
Costa Rica
Iceland The winter landscape in Iceland can prove brooding, but there’s a lot to pack into the short days (under three hours in December to 10 hours in February). At Indagare Index lodge Deplar Farm, a converted sheep ranch on the remote Troll Peninsula, guests have instant access to Iceland’s rugged appeal. That means Nordic skiing, fat-tire biking and snowshoeing across sub-Arctic reserves; surfing in Haganesvík Bay; and skiing down slopes right on-property. Plus, the hotel’s helicopters offer heli-skiing adventures on the 3,000-foot verticals nearby. Come nightfall, it’s back to the lodge for the ultimate reward: lounging in the geothermal heated pool, looking up at the northern lights.
Deplar Farm and its surrounding landscape.
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adventure
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Baja California MEXICO
wildlife
Each winter, the waters off Los Cabos become crowded, teeming both with cavorting couples and newborns. No, not tourists, but gray, blue and humpback whales. Having traveled more than 5,000 miles from the icy waters of Alaska—the world’s longest mammal migration—upwards of 20,000 of the gentle giants converge off Baja California, either to mate or give birth in protected coves. From early December through mid-April, two-legged visitors to Cabo’s resorts can see the whales frolicking just offshore. At One&Only Palmilla, an Indagare Index hotel, the resort staff blows a conch shell to alert guests of a sighting. (In peak season, expect to hear this often.) Each room comes with binoculars, but a boat tour allows for even more up-close encounters. For the closest, opt for a smooth-riding, inflatable speedboat, which whisks you to the majestic creatures.
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Here and above: Whales off the coast of Los Cabos.
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Here and below: The Louvre Abu Dhabi.
culture
ROLAND HALBE; MOHAMED SOMJI
United Arab Emirates
&
design
A year behind schedule, Expo 2020 Dubai finally kicks off this fall, bringing art shows, cultural events and forward-looking design to the shiniest Middle East emirate. The theme, “Connecting Minds, Creating the Future,” has inspired some of the world’s top architects to create more than 100 pavilions. Highlights include the Terra Pavilion from Grimshaw Architects, featuring nearly 5,000 solar panels on a twirly roof and exhibitions on sustainability inside; the host country’s own pavilion, a Santiago Calatrava masterpiece resembling a falcon in flight; and Germany’s pavilion, which, in celebration of Beethoven’s 250th birthday, will feature performances of his work—given by robots in rock, acoustic, electronic and, perhaps surprisingly, classical style. Just over an hour south, Louvre Abu Dhabi’s “Here 2021” exhibition (November 16 through March 27, 2022) will showcase the works of rising UAE artists as part of a competition judged by a jury of art experts. For more on Culture, see page 12.
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A blue sky day at Casa Maria Luigia in Emilia-Romagna. Opposite, from top: Massimo Bottura at work; Ai Weiwei art in the lounge at Casa Maria Luigia.
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The World According to Massimo When you check into chef Massimo Bottura’s guesthouse in Emilia-Romagna, you are invited into the heart and mind of a creative genius. Melissa Biggs Bradley reports.
PHOTO CREDIT MARCO PODERITKT
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Y FIRST TASTE of a Massimo Bottura dish was preceded by a story about his first foreign road trip to Normandy, where he tasted oysters, coastal-raised lamb and crisp apples. I heard this story and tasted his culinary ode to it in the carriage house dining room of his 12-room guesthouse Casa Maria Luigia. I was sitting at a communal table with a couple who had driven from the Netherlands to Italy for this meal. At the next table sat three girlfriends from Sicily and a family from the U.S. The interior walls of the carriage house had been removed, so we food pilgrims could see the kitchen and the chefs preparing our ninecourse menu. Massimo stood before us, dressed in Gucci sneakers, jeans and a chef ’s jacket, and recalled that day in Normandy and the moment the power of food struck him: how tastes can conjure the place, the history, the terroir and the people responsible for it. An ode to the chef ’s awakening, Massimo’s first course, “Mont St. Michel,” is served on an oyster shell containing lamb tartare in an oyster emulsion topped with apple cider granita. Massimo reminded us this was his “tribute to Normandy.” And yes, in it, I could taste the sea and feel the warmth of my own memories evoked by the distinct flavors.
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“Casa Maria Luigia is a true evolution,” he explained. “Because this is like cooking for you in my home.” He and his American wife and business partner, Lara Gilmore, who stands tall and elegant beside him, have created an empire around his talents that reflect their devotion to his birthplace and to a worldview. Within a few miles of where we sit, they oversee Michelin three-star restaurant Osteria Francescana and the Franceschetta58 trattoria, plus a new restaurant at the nearby Ferrari factory. Farther afield, they have launched Gucci Osterias in Florence and L.A. and Torno Subito in Dubai.
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MARCO PODERI
I arrived at Massimo’s guesthouse in the countryside of Emilia-Romagna with high expectations. I had seen the Chef ’s Table episode devoted to him and had heard foodie friends rave about his restaurants for years, but I wasn’t prepared for quite how multifaceted or immersive an experience it would be. Because when you eat at Massimo’s restaurant, you dine on his culinary creations, but you also hear his story and are swept up into his passions. Memories, obsessions and moments of epiphany are woven into the meal, like white wine in a béchamel (or besciamella) sauce. Since he opened his first restaurant in his hometown of Modena, Massimo has been simultaneously honoring and breaking traditions and pushing the idea of cuisine as an art form and a tool of social justice. For these efforts, he is arguably the most famous, sought-after chef at work in the world today, but he is not one to rest on his laurels. As he bounces around the kitchen and dining room like a mischievous boy genius, he seems to vibrate with electric energy. It’s easy to see why Gucci and Maserati have enlisted him as a brand ambassador.
From top: Bottura’s famous dessert, “Oops, I Dropped the Lemon Tart”; the custom Lamborghini inspired by the dessert. Opposite: A lounge area at Casa Maria Luigia.
Their philanthropic endeavors are equally impressive and local/global: in Modena, Tortellante, the educational pasta workshop they created, employs/teaches 24 disabled children—including their 21-year-old son, Charlie—to prepare tortellini; and their Food for Soul program has spawned 11 refettorios, community hubs where meals are “remade” from surplus foods to feed those in need, on four continents. Massimo said he sees his first hotel project, Casa Maria Luigia, which is named after his late mother, as an evolution in intimacy. Because the bucolic 12-acre property, which includes a 19th-century manor house, a pool, tennis court and “playhouse” containing a gym and Massimo’s race car collection, allows guests to not just come for dinner but stay in a home that he and Lara have crafted.
His taste of pesto has been broken down so a bite reveals each ingredient—basil, pine nuts, Parmesan— individually, like notes played one after the other that then coalesce into harmony. And I realized pesto forever after will not live up to this moment of green rapture.”
Every room contains contemporary art they have collected. Damien Hirst’s series The Last Supper, which portrays British food staples like corned beef and meatballs as pharmaceutical labels, adorns the walls of the dining room. Works by Robert Longo and Ai Weiwei hang in the vaulted living room, where a sofa by Piero Lissoni invites lounging. Massimo’s collection of 8,000 LPs occupies the “listening room” along with a polka-dotted chair that Lara calls his throne. Works by Tracey Emin, Vik Muniz and many other contemporary-art heavyweights are scattered throughout the house. Marilyn Monroe by Andy Warhol hangs in one of the bedrooms, which range from simple doubles to a penthouse tower. But even if the house contains a museum’s worth of art, the vibe is laid-back. A
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A lounge at Casa Maria Luigia. Opposite, clockwise from top: The hotel gardens; a bedroom; art at the property.
stay here resembles being invited to join a cool couple’s house party. In the kitchen, which is always open and has a fridge filled with homemade snacks and beverages, you might find someone in bare feet who has wandered in from the pool. You can flip through the jazz albums and give Coltrane free rein over the afternoon. The aesthetic emphasizes fun over formality, though being a guest at Casa Maria Luigia does include special access for reservations at Osteria Francescana, a short drive away, and at the carriage house, which serves an adaptation of the Francescana menu with many of his most famous dishes. Each of Massimo’s dishes has been influenced by his love of art and travel and is tied to memory and inspiration. In describing a monumental beef moment, Massimo said, “It changed my whole perspective. Like once you’ve seen Picasso’s Guernica, there is a before and an after. My reference for the rest of my life will be with this piece of meat.”
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I understood what he meant, but when I tasted his pasta al pesto, I experienced his meaning. For his taste of pesto has been broken down so a bite reveals each ingredient— basil, pine nuts, Parmesan—individually, like notes played one after the other that then coalesce into harmony. And I realized pesto forever after will not live up to this moment of green rapture. “Chef, you’ve ruined pesto for me,” I said. “Because I will never again taste it and not know how it really should taste.” He laughed and told me about four diners who came from Liguria recently. “One of them, she started crying. Because she said, ‘I was eating with my eyes closed, and I immediately had the feeling that my grandmother was cooking for me.’ She had to stop because it was too emotional.” The food brought her back to a warm memory, and I realized that future pesto tastings may not dazzle as Massimo’s had, but they would always evoke the memory of
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PHOTO CREDIT DAVIDE PIFERI DE TKTSIMONI
this evening. Like seeing the Serengeti for the first time, a food pilgrimage to Modena and Osteria Francescana rivals some of my most epic travel experiences to date: dishes and meals that change your perspective and give you a richer understanding of a destination and its culture—and ignite and distill the essence of a memory. Come dessert time, Massimo introduced us to his most famous dish, “Oops, I Dropped the Lemon Tart.” (The custom Lamborghini fashioned in its honor is one of dozens in his collection on the property.) Massimo explained that the dish came from a mistake. When his Japanese sous-chef mishandled the dessert, Massimo said, “Taka wanted to kill himself, but I said, ‘You are a genius.’ This tart is the perfect static expression of southern Italy. There’s nothing more broken than this region. But at the end of the day, it’s all about how you look at it. Because, yes, you can be late for the ferry to Capri. And probably the museum in the Temple Valley is closed for Easter because the staff has to have family lunch. But when you do walk into the Temple Valley, or swim in Capri, it’s paradise,” he said, his eyes twinkling. “The secret is always to keep a space open for poetry. And imagine serving a broken lemon tart in the world’s best restaurant. This is the point.” He is having fun but also going deep, because he continues pointing out that part of the art lies in committing to “rebuild in the perfect way the imperfection. In the moment you make a mistake, you see the world from the perspective of a kid. And this is the moment in which you have to catch the flash in the dark. And make an invisible thing visible.” And that moment has led to other memorable ones. He told of giving a speech in Sydney for 3,000 kids who gave him “the most precious present ever,” a book of their sketches titled Oops, I Dropped the Lemon Tart. And more recently of Michele Obama asking him to appear on her Netflix cooking show. When she said she wanted him to share “Oops, I Dropped the Lemon Tart,” he said, “Michelle. Everybody knows about this.” But she persisted, saying that she wanted to teach them that making mistakes is not a bad thing, to not be afraid to try.
The Ferrari museum in Modena. Clockwise, from far right: Bottura plating dishes; peaches at Osteria Francescana; a church in Modena; the dining room at Cavallino.
“You know, she made visible the invisible for me,” he exclaimed. “Because I never thought about ‘Oops, I Dropped the Lemon Tart’ as something we can use in this way. I mean, imagine that. This is the poem.”
Let us help you make the most of your future travels. Call us at 212-988-2611 or visit indagare.com/go.
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CONTACT US FOR EXPERT ADVICE
Travel with Massimo!
PHOTO CREDIT TKT MARCO PODERI
Indagare has arranged an exclusive Insider Journey to experience the world-famous cuisine and heritage of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, in Massimo’s company. Stay at Casa Maria Luigia and enjoy his hospitality firsthand with a private meal at his threeMichelin-starred Osteria Francescana. You’ll also experience Cavallino (the latest addition to the Francescana family, which was originally opened by Enzo Ferrari in 1950 and is located directly across from the historic Ferrari factory), along with tours focused on pasta and focaccia, Acetaia Guisti Vinegar, Parmigiano Reggiano, wine or art and history and much more. See page 43 or visit indagare.com/insiderjourneys to learn more and reserve your spot.
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Where We Traveled
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We believe that how you travel matters, and over the past year we have been more committed than ever before to helping make your travels as safe, responsible and memorable as possible. Here’s a look at where some of our members and staff have ventured to recently, and where we’re headed next.
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Birthday Celebration THE DESTINATION: Camp Sarika, Utah
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THE TRIP:
“We had such a wonderful, wonderful time. When people ask about our trip, all we can say is ‘wow.’ We loved Camp Sarika and would return with another group or just ourselves. It is so unique—you felt transported to another place. We can’t believe it’s only an hour-long flight from L.A. (flying privately) and varies so vastly in landscape and experiences. The staff could not be any better. We enjoyed hikes from the property and loved the full-day helicopter excursion and the private dining experiences, especially the Desert Lounge and Chinle Site.” —Indagare members from Los Angeles
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Where We Traveled
Wedding Anniversary Celebration with Three Generations THE DESTINATION: The Galápagos Islands THE TRIP:
“Our family of 22 chartered a boat during Covid to create our bubble. Each cabin was spacious and bright, and the indoor and outdoor common areas were beautifully decorated. Two naturalists led tours on land, snorkeling expeditions and lectures each evening. The captain was kind enough to offer a ceremonial renewal of our marriage vows. The food was exceptional and the chef’s manner of describing the Ecuadoran recipes was special. It was not just the amenities of the ship that made the voyage memorable, but the staff. Our grandchildren loved seeing the animals, and on the last night they had a dance party with the bartender, guides and parents! I cannot imagine a better boat—or way—to visit the Galápagos.”—Indagare member Peggy Schapiro
Melissa Biggs Bradley, CEO: Madrid, Los Angeles Elise Bronzo, Senior Director, Membership: Galápagos Peter Schlesinger, Digital Content Manager: Italy, Switzerland, Bulgaria, France Colin Heinrich, Trip Designer: Costa Rica John Cantrell, Destinations Director: Marrakech Bridget McElroy, Global Experience Associate: Maui, Lanai Emily Clark, Trip Designer: Iceland
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PHOTOSCHAPIRO JAMIE CREDIT TKT
Where we’re headed next…
Work-from-Anywhere Solo Experience THE DESTINATION: Kenya, Rwanda THE TRIP:
Since Covid began, many members of the Indagare team have taken the opportunity to spend more time away from home, everywhere from France, Thailand, California and Hawaii to North Carolina and Brazil. Indagare Global Experience Manager Kathryn Nathanson spent three months working remotely in Kenya, Rwanda and Egypt this year. Here, she shares some of her learnings along the way. “Luckily, the pandemic has positively altered my flexibility, my appreciation and my packed schedules—much to my family and friends’ excitement. Working remotely has shown me the beauty of slow travel, of waking up in the morning without a set plan. For me one of the biggest learnings of all has been to stop and savor. In Kenya, staying as a long-term guest in the artist-in-residence cottage at Hotel Eden, I’d wake to the sounds of the birds and allow my free days to form via word of mouth. My mission: to seek out the gems. Slowly but surely, my community in Kenya and then in Rwanda started to grow. I learned about new restaurants and sights by speaking to locals. While I did ample exploring outside of Nairobi and Kigali, I spent most of my trip as a hybrid tourist-local in both cities. The impact I’ve been able to have in Africa during the pandemic has been profound. I can feel how grateful every guide or taxi driver has been to have work again. I’ve been proud of my solo adventure and the importance of continuing to discover, keeping economies moving and connecting to different cultures around the world.”—Indagare’s Kathryn Nathanson
Practical Tips for Remote Work: • A Lenovo portable monitor can be a lifesaver,
allowing you to toggle between screens and easily set up (and collapse) your home office. • Bring a surge protector with a long cord. •Call ahead to confirm your hotel or rental has an Internet speed of at least 10 or 15 MBs, ideal for Zoom. • Make sure you have a backup hotspot for WiFi on-the-go. • If you plan to travel to multiple countries, you may qualify for a multi-entry visa, which saves time. • Be sure to have additional travel health insurance. I enrolled in Flying Doctors (flydoc.org) while in East Africa, which covered me for medical evacuation; and enroll in STEP to be sure you have the latest Covid updates and embassy intel.
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Where We Traveled
Family Adventure THE DESTINATION: Machu Picchu and the Peruvian Amazon THE TRIP:
“From an elevation of over 11,000 feet in Cusco, we descended into the Andes, immediately feeling the spiritual energy of the mountains. We cruised through, without any of the usual traffic, to Pisac Archaeological Park, known for its Incan citadel. Our guide told us that this was the first time in his 10 years of guiding that he experienced Pisac with only one family. We were fascinated by his accounts of Incan rituals and quipus—a system of cords to record information, the closest thing they had to written language. He explained Aini, the cycle of Andean reciprocity, the belief that everything in the world is connected and the concept of mutualism in between people and Mother Earth. At the apex, I brushed my palm against the Lego-like stones of the main temple, each perfectly interlocked and laid in harmony with nature.”—Diana Li, Indagare Senior Marketing Director
Family Tour THE DESTINATION: Egypt “Smooth travels, outstanding guides, no crowds at any of the sites, a great experience with Dr. Zahi Hawass at the Sphinx! We loved our Nile cruise on the Eyaru and having just our family and our guide and the fabulous staff. The authentic Egyptian cuisine on the boat was delicious. We also loved the Four Seasons Sharm El Sheikh. It is a beautiful property with lovely staff. Scuba and snorkeling in the Red Sea was amazing! The only challenges we had were the heat and the extra security and Covid checks at the airport, but they were not a big issue.”—Indagare member Chris Miller
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PHOTO MILLER CHRIS CREDIT TKT
THE TRIP:
THE TRIP:
Villa
THE DESTINATION:
St. Barth’s
“The villa was fabulous! We loved it—and we loved our dinners. Bonito was the favorite of everyone. We had a table on the edge, and it was wonderful. We also loved our dinner alone at Fouquet, and we had a great day for all at Gyp Sea. Eden Rock for the first night was wonderful—just a stunning setting, always. We will definitely be booking another villa for next year.”—Indagare members Tess and Sam Atkinson
Mother-Daughter THE DESTINATION: Rome to Puglia THE TRIP:
CATHERINE MAKK
“Puglia was glorious! Italy was the best idea. It’s quiet and charming and devoid of tourists. Rome was a delight as always, Lecce was a marvel— and not just because we had the all-time most adorable tour guide ever, a young, multilingual, hyper-educated, tennis-playing Italian. I loved Villa Spalletti Trivelli—such a treasure—it’s not the sleekest, but it reminds me of a private club, which is a wonderful end to a day in Rome. Gracious Roman hospitality, as well. We had a ball at Borgo Egnazia! It’s a wonderful resort and the perfect way to spend time at the beach with all you could want by the sea. The Adriatic Sea is a gift—the beautiful clear saltwater is perfect to cool you off after a morning of mother-daughter grass-court tennis! It’s a great flop-and-drop destination with some built-in culture if you want it.”—Indagare member Catherine Makk
For help with booking trips like these, navigating Covid protocols, travel insurance and more, contact your Trip Designer or contact indagare.com/go.
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Why Travel with Indagare OUR STYLE
OUR EXPERTISE
OUR ACCESS
Our goal is to make every journey unforgettable. We get to know you personally, in order to build a relationship with you and craft custom itineraries around your interests and passions to maximize your travel experiences and help you map your lifetime of travel journeys.
Our Trip Designers and staff are on the road as often as possible, so we can advise you thoughtfully with reliable, firsthand information to help you make informed decisions. We share real-time intel and feedback with our community, so you always have the best information to go on.
Meaningful interactions with our team guide you before, during and after a trip, allowing you to travel safely and responsibly. We include perks and access to the best rooms, villas and upgrades through long-standing relationships and open doors to experiences that are right for you.
Bespoke Travel | Insider Journeys | Safaris | Family Trips | Celebrations | Sabbaticals
Let us help you make the most of your next trip. | 212-988-2611| membership@indagare.com 76 I N D A G A R E . C O M
“The purpose of life is to live it, to taste it, to experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience.” ~ Eleanor Roosevelt
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