MAGAZINE
FALL/WINTER 2023 DISCOVER. SEEK. EXPLORE.
PARIS LONDON HAWAII GUATEMALA BOSTON MAASTRICHT TURKS & CAICOS BROOKLYN
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FALL/WINTER 2023
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At Indagare, our mission is to inspire and empower people to change their lives—and the world—through travel. We help you craft a lifetime of meaningful journeys and, as a carbon-neutral company, we offset all travel booked with us, as well as donate 2% of our revenue to important causes around the world. Together, we ensure that your trips are reshaping and sustaining the destinations you love.
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FALL/WINTER 2023
In this issue, clockwise from left: Skiing in the Dolomites (page 28); dinner with a view at Laser Wolf, on the rooftop of The Hoxton hotel, in Brooklyn (page 32); Florence’s Savoy, a Rocco Forte Hotel, overlooking the iconic Piazza della Repubblica (page 78); our Indagare Journey to TEFAF Maastricht in 2023 (page 34).
4-5 On My Mind
32-33 Perfect Day
6-15 On Our Radar
34-35 Art File
15 Spotlight
36-37 First Look
16-19 The Culturalist’s Calendar
38-39 What to Wear Where
Lifelong Learning
COURTESY DOLOMITE MOUNTAINS; PHOTO BY MICHAEL PERSICO, COURTESY LASER WOLF; PHOTO BY JACQUES TILLMANNS-FOTO FOCUS COURTEYS ROCCO FORTE HOTELS
The Latest Travel News
Palaces de France
The Season’s Top Shows, Hot Tickets
20-23 Community Member Travels
24-27 City Scene
Latest from London
28-31 Outdoors
Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Best of TEFAF, Maastricht
Upon Arrival: Boston
Winter in Style
40-41 Style File
Olga Polizzi’s Design Secrets
78-80 Indagare Journeys
Our Newest Trips for 2024
Ski Report
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FALL/WINTER 2023
Clockwise from top: A bedroom at the Right Bank’s Le Grand Mazarin, in Paris (page 50); a view in Guatemala (page 64); Lizzie Foster, one of our insiders (and a yoga teacher and healer) in the Turks & Caicos (page 70). On the Cover: Autumn in Paris; photo by Sydney Lapin. Back Cover: Indagare’s Diana Li in India.
FEATURES 42-49
EUROPE, AFRICA & CARIBBEAN
The Birth of All-Season Travel 50-57 FRANCE
Neverending Paris 58-63 64-69
GUATEMALA
Mayan Mysteries BOOK NOW We can plan trips to any of the destinations in this issue. Visit indagare.com/go to get started.
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70-77
TURKS & CAICOS
It’s a Shore Thing
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: VINCENT LAROUX; MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY; ROMELLO WILLIAMS.
HAWAII
Top Chef, Hawaii Edition
COURTESY MARK ELLWOOD; PHOTO BY JACOB BUMP, COURTESY JEN MURPHY; COURTESY LANIE GOODMAN; PHOTO BY WHITNEY LAWSON, COURTESY MARIO R. MERCADO.
THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTORS
MARK ELLWOOD
JEN MURPHY
The Birth of All-Season Travel, p. 42
NYC Restaurants, p. 8; Top Chef, Hawaii Edition, p. 58
British-born, New Yorkbased Mark Ellwood has lived out of a suitcase for most of his life. He is editorat-large for luxury bible Robb Report and a regular contributor to many others. FAVORITE HOTELS: “La Mamounia, in Marrakech: if glamour were a place, it would be this. Hong Kong’s Upper House: tucked away but not hidden. Hotel Locarno in Rome: my secret crush: a great value right in centro storico.” @MarkEllwood
Jen is a journalist who splits her time between Colorado and Maui and writes regularly for the Wall Street Journal, Outside Condé Nast Traveler and Bloomberg among others. RECENT DISCOVERIES: “I love the new Sky Village at Canyon of the Ancients guest ranch in southwest Colorado. And the raw bar at the Restaurant at the Carlin (new in Breckenridge) will be my regular aprés spot this winter.” @jenrunsworld
LANIE GOODMAN MARIO R. MERCADO Paris Neverending, p. 50
The Culturalist’s Calendar, p. 16
Lanie Goodman is an arts and travel writer based in the south of France since 1988. Her articles appear in many publications, including Conde Nast Traveler and Departures. FAVORITE HOTELS: “Villa La Coste in Provence checks off every box of my dream hotel; I recently fell in love with the long-established Byblos, in St.-Tropez, thanks to the holistic workshops at the reinvented Sisley Spa; and the fascinating Sassi di Matera Albergo Diffuso in Matera.” @goodmanlanie
Mario R. Mercado, the former arts editor of Travel + Leisure, has contributed to Opera News and the New York Times, among other publications. The Texas native lives in Fort Worth. NOT TO MISS THIS FALL: “Manet/Degas at New York City’s Metropolitan Museum of Art is a once-in-a-lifetime show that examines the evolving relationship between two of France’s leading artists as they defined modern Paris. The show comprises more than 160 works, including Olympia, on view in the U.S. for the first time.”
INDAGARE MAGAZINE: FOUNDER & CEO: MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER: ELIZA SCOTT HARRIS CREATIVE DIRECTOR: SIMONE GIRNER EDITORIAL DIRECTOR: ANNIE FITZSIMMONS SENIOR CONTENT & BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: JEN BARR MAGAZINE TEAM: PETER SCHLESINGER, ELIZABETH HARVEY, TREY ROSS, ABBY SANDMAN THIS ISSUE’S CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: SYDNEY LAPIN (COVER). ROSE ALLEN, JEN BARR, ELISE BRONZO, MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY, ANNIE FITZSIMMONS, COLIN HEINRICH, DIANA LI, ABBY SANDMAN
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ON GOING BACK TO SCHOOL she had attended an immersive and intensive language school in Belgium that was only five days long, called Ceran.
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HEN I INTERVIEWED Chip Conley, the author and philosopher who founded the Modern Elder Academy, on my podcast Passport to Everywhere, he said that he finds value in the questions: “What do you wish you had done 10 years ago?” And “What will you regret 10 years from now not having done sooner?” Many of my travel decisions are made with these questions in mind, such as traveling to Guatemala for the first time, which I loved and wrote about for this issue, starting on page 64. But for many years, at the top of my “oneday-when-I-have-more-time” list was fulfilling the wish of returning to school to improve my French. Ever since I lived in France as a student in high school and college and became proficient in French, I have wanted to take my second-language level up a notch. I was thrilled to be able to read Colette in the original, but I wanted to try to emulate her wit in conversation. When I mentioned this long-held fantasy to one of the travelers on our Tangier Insider Journey this year, she shared that
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pleasantly surprised. It was here that we would meet for meals. A purpose-built residence hall up the hill housed classrooms on the ground floor, typical dorm rooms on the upper floors “It’s popular with diplomats and executives and an attached gym facility. In my group, being sent to Francophone countries,” she everyone else had come because they needed explained. “They have an auditory method expert French for work. But we learned that that they have developed over decades; it is past Ceran students included various royal centered around conversation family members, heads of state and one-on-one learning.” and senior executives from “Ever since I Five days I could find, I brands such as Ferrero Rocher lived in France thought. After exploring its and Chanel as well as retirees who as a student in website and my calendar, I wanted the mental stimulation of high school and language learning. decided to sign up. “Seize the college and day,” as I tell my kids, and travbecame proficient Each day, breakfast began at elers, too, especially since the pandemic taught us: there is in French, I have 8:00 a.m. before my one-on-one no time like the present and wanted to take classes, group instruction and dreams deferred can haunt chatter, plus a pause en français my secondyou. for coffee and conversation with language level the group. Speaking, listening up a notch.” At its main campus in Spa, and responding was the rhythm— Belgium, Ceran offers resnot writing or reading. A Ceran idential courses in French, Germany, principle is that language needs to be lodged Dutch, Italian and Spanish for adults yearin the mind and become automated through round (there are other training centers in the ear, not the eye, which is why key phrases various European cities). Founded in 1975, and repetition are so important. Dinner was the weekly program consists of a blend of always three courses plus a salad and cheese group activities, group classes or workoption, and red and white wine choices. (The shops and private classes with one-on-one chefs provided delicious vegetarian and gluinstruction. Students must commit to full ten-free options at each meal and focused on immersion in their chosen language; all ingredients from local purveyors and farmers.) levels are welcome. After-dinner activities included a game night and an evening visit to the small city of Spa, a In contrast to my scouting trips, I knew UNESCO World Heritage Site whose heallittle before arriving. So when the taxi ing waters once drew Romans and Tsar Peter from Brussels wended its way past the the Great and whose name inspired what was châteaux that dot the Ardennes hills outprobably the first global health craze. side of the town of Spa and pulled up to the imposing Chåteau du Haut-Neuboison At the end of the program, we all left Spa with its lovely landscaped grounds, I was with much improved French, yes, but, more
importantly, with a renewed appreciation for the essential goodness of strangers and the value of forging global connections. We had arrived as total strangers with nothing in common but our desire to improve our communication in a foreign language, which wasn’t always easy through intense days. What was remarkably easy, though, was our ability to share laughs, kindness and true connection. We stayed on a firstname basis, shared little of our personal history and had no overlap with each other’s hometowns or work—and who knows if we will see each other again. But there was something about returning to the role of students, of putting ourselves under the purview of professors, as adults that had been remarkably rejuvenating. It takes a kind of humility and hopefulness to accept instruction and continual correction, and yet, I found I left Spa with a renewed sense of possibility. I also found the chance to focus entirely on one mental exercise incredibly gratifying, since my attention is usually so fractured during the day between meetings, emails, calls, presentations and the like. The desire to learn and connect is not limited to actually returning to school, of course. I try to seek out that sense of connection and possibility on every trip. And the other big wishes on my list seem more attainable now that I have not postponed my language dream any longer. Where will this year take you? What have you wanted to accomplish and see for a long time? I hope these pages help inspire your next trip.
MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY INDAGARE CEO @INDAGAREFOUNDER & @INDAGARETRAVEL
Lifelong Learner Opposite: Melissa Biggs Bradley as a student in France in the 1980s. This page, from top: Ceran language school in Spa, Belgium; the now CEO and Indagare founder on a recent trip to Paris.
Indagare is a members-only boutique travel-planning company. We offer curated content, customized trip-planning and group trips around personal passions. Indagare Magazine is published twice annually exclusively for Indagare members. © 2023 Indagare. All Rights Reserved. See the magazine online at indagare.com. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Trip inquiries and change of address requests can be made by phone or by emailing info@indagare.com. Indagare Membership Office: 212-988-2611 1177 Avenue of the Americas New York, NY 10036
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ON OUR RADAR
HOTEL WATCH: Southern Ocean Lodge Returns AT THE BOTTOM of the Land Down Under, just southwest of Adelaide— and just a few hundred miles north of Antarctica—Kangaroo Island is home to dramatic vistas and wild wonders like wallabies, sea lions, kangaroos, echidnas and some of the world’s smallest penguins. It’s often referred to as Australia’s Galápagos. Nearly four years after devastating bushfires ravaged nearly half the island and razed the Indagare-adored Southern Ocean Lodge, the property is reopening on December 6 after a 50-million-dollar restoration—and the island is more beautiful than ever. In the wake of dramatic losses, naturalists are discovering the rebirth of dormant
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species, new conservation systems are being put into place and communities are rebuilding. At Southern Ocean Lodge, additions are also redefining the resort for future generations while preserving its original footprint—and the magic of the property. Southern Ocean Lodge is one of the jewels of the Baillie Lodges portfolio, which was founded in 2003 by James and Hayley Baillie and includes Longitude 131° at Uluru-Kata Tjuta, Huka Lodge in New Zealand and Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge on Vancouver Island, all Indagare favorites. Like those properties, it has also been celebrated for its sustainable design (it is rainwater- and solar-reliant), fantastic local culinary offerings, guides and
service, and proximity to top exploration areas and wildlife. The layout of the new lodge (aka “SOL 2.0”) is true to the first, thanks to the involvement of the original architects—but the 25 sandstone, localwood-and-glass-lined suites have been reoriented for even better panoramic views of the windswept coast. Sprawling Ocean Pavilion suites offer maximum privacy, plus two living rooms with fireplaces, four king bedrooms and en suite bathrooms. —ELIZABETH HARVEY Tune into the Passport to Everwhere podcast on Hotel Legends, with the Baillies and Melissa Biggs Bradley, on December 14 for more on SOL 2.0.
TRIP PLANNER: ULTIMATE South Africa Indagare Trip Designer Isabel Graubart offers a sneak peek of a trip she’s planning for two members. The Trip: From the bush to the Cape Winelands, their journey will total three-and-a-half weeks and includes the crème de la crème of South Africa’s hotels.
OPPOSITE PAGE: COURTESY SOUTHERN OCEAN LODGE; THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: PHOTO BY EMMA JUDE JACKSON, COURTESY STERREKOPJE FARM; TK; COURTESY TOKKI SOJU
How did it come about? “This is a special, lifelong-best-friends’ trip. These two women like to spend three to four weeks deep-diving into one country or region every year. Previously, they did an extensive Italy trip. Highlights included meeting locals, special cooking experiences and, of course, staying at nearly all of Indagare’s favorite properties— and ending with a bang on the Belmond Venice Simplon-OrientExpress! They have never been on safari and they really appreciate incredible food and wine, rich culture and authentic experiences, so South Africa fits the bill.” What are you most excited for them to experience? “Our senior director of travel product, African Safari, Rose Allen Taylor, recently
discovered Sterrekopje Farm. She describes it as ‘an 11-room wellness refuge founded by power couple Fleur and Nicole, set on a restored 17th-century farm in the foothills surrounding Franschhoek. The converted historic-farmhouse interiors are inspired by the founders’ travels—think photographs from Mongolia hanging next to frescoes mimicking the tombs of Egypt.’ I have a feeling that they will fall in love with the property and its story and not want to leave! It will be a very special way to start their time in the wine country.”
The pool at Sterrekopje Farm. Below: Zebra sighting on safari.
What has been your favorite part of the planning process? “We’ve had many calls to discuss different properties and options throughout South Africa, but one of my favorites was when our COO Eliza Harris joined. She shared her personal experience of staying at the Royal Portfolio properties and it was so clear it was a perfect match.”
Drink of the Moment: Tokki Soju Brooklyn-based master distiller Bran Hill fell in love with the Korean spirit soju when he lived in Seoul in 2011—the year of the Rabbit (“tokki” in Korean). A few years later, Tokki Soju was born, with a New York distillery that eschewed the ubiquitous use of tapioca or potato in favor of a traditional rice base. Hill shifted production to Korea in 2020, hoping to “start at the source,” and reconnecting to the brand’s roots. Now, Tokki has hopped back to the U.S. market, with its award-winning White, Black and Gold labels.—PETER SCHLESINGER 7
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TOP TABLES: Where to Eat in NYC This Fall New York City’s restaurant scene has never felt more dynamic, thanks to fresh spots from star chefs, outposts of hit international eateries and new restaurants with a singular focus, like the perfect burger. By Jen Murphy
STAR CHEF MOMENT Four Twenty Five As soon as Four Twenty Five debuted on Park Avenue this fall it was certain to be a New York hot spot. Renowned chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten has teamed up with Jonathan Benno, whose résumé includes Per Se and Lincoln Ristorante, for this new white-tablecloth restaurant situated within a stunning (and sustainable) L&L Holding office tower designed by Sir Norman Foster in the heart of Midtown. The 80-seat main mezzanine dining room is anchored by a 1,000-square-foot open kitchen, and a 35-seat cocktail lounge downstairs showcases a 24-foot painting by artist Larry Poons and 45-foot ceilings. The restaurant debuted with dinner service (à la carte and tasting menus) and plans to add lunch and breakfast. Vegetables will be a focus of the seasonal, market-driven menu, and the culinary team has partnered with local food banks to minimize food waste. Metropolis at the Perelman Performing Arts Center Celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson and chef Ed Tinoco, formerly of Chicago’s acclaimed Alinea Group, are set to open this Lower Manhattan restaurant in the lobby of the new Perelman Performing Arts Center. Dishes like Flushing-style oysters with shiso, lemon and XO sauce and braised and grilled Wagyu short rib with za’atar churro and black truffle draw inspiration from the generations of immigrants that have settled in the five boroughs. Bar manager Alexis Belton of avant-garde cocktail spot the Aviary in Chicago has designed an interactive experience that involves tableside moments, like a roaming martini cart.
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The Bazaar by José Andrés Humanitarian restaurateur José Andrés has finally opened an outpost of his acclaimed restaurant, The Bazaar, in New York City. And he’s picked a prime location: within the glitzy Ritz-Carlton New York, NoMad hotel. Every Bazaar concept is unique and here, both the food and design marry the cultures of Japan and Andrés’s native Spain. The menu contrasts preparations like Iberico pork seared over a Japanese robata grill with Japanese Wagyu cooked on the Josper, a charcoal oven from Spain. The beverage program showcases the best of Japan and the Iberian Peninsula with offerings of Spanish wines, rare Japanese whiskies and a deep list of sake and shochu.
ITALIAN INVASION Roscioli NYC You no longer need to fly to Italy to savor the exceptional cacio e pepe and pizza al taglio from Roscioli. This family-run food empire includes a café, bakery, wine bar, deli and alwayspacked restaurant in Rome and debuted its first New York location in the West Village this July. Downstairs, the dining room hosts two nightly four-course, wine-paired dinners featuring classic dishes like carbonara and tiramisu. The upstairs deli and wine bar have a highly curated selection of meats, cheeses and conservi, plus a menu of Roman specialties like meatballs with tomato sauce and aged ricotta. Lupetto Nomad In September, Mark Barak, the restaurateur behind New York’s La Pecora Bianca, opened this rustic, wood-fired Italian spot overlooking Madison Square Park. The menu
Clockwise from top left: Lupetto Nomad; chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten of Four Twenty Five; a Negroni Americano at Rampoldi; reds and sparkling wines at Roscioli; Madai Crudo at The Bazaar; Lupetto’s oysters and octopus.
Clockwise from top: Nicole Franzen; Francesco Tonelli; Evan Sung; Gary He; Louiie Victa; Nicole Franzen.
is centered around grilled meats, which are complemented by vegetable contorni, Neapolitan-style pizza and house-made pastas. Later this fall, Sotto, a craft amari bar inspired by Italian aperitivo culture, will open downstairs.
Salvatore, channels the flavors of Southern Italy and France in dishes such as artichoke carpaccio and beef tartare topped with caviar.
Rampoldi This Monaco institution recently received its first Michelin star and will now aim for a second at its new NYC location near Lincoln Center. Glamorous marble interiors with mirrored arches and grand Murano glass chandeliers immediately transport guests to the French Riviera. The menu, created by esteemed Italian chef Antonio
Jazba The team behind NYC’s Junoon, one of the first Indian restaurants in America to earn a Michelin star, has opened a casual second act. Located in the East Village, Jazba pays tribute to India’s food hawkers and roadside eateries. The menu crisscrosses the country with recipes like spicy, pork-studded pandi curry from Karnataka and a masala fish fry from Kerala.
NEW ASIAN FLAVORS
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From left: Rampoldi, uptown; Bangkok Supper Club chef Max Wittawat in the Meatpacking District.
A cocktail program created by award-winning mixologist Hemant Pathak matches the food’s bold flavors with Indian botanicals and spices. Yingtao This 50-seat fine-dining spot in Hell’s Kitchen marries recipes from owner Bolun Yao’s late grandmother with French culinary techniques. Set to open in October, the restaurant will offer an eight-course tasting menu of gussied-up classics like Peking duck, congee and orange chicken. Bangkok Supper Club A blazing charcoal grill is the centerpiece of the open kitchen and menu at this inventive new West Village Thai restaurant. Bangkok-born chef Max Wittawat riffs off tradition to create shareable plates like fried sticky rice–stuffed chicken wings and whole branzino with umami-packed nam jim seafood sauce. Well-known dishes like spicy grilled beef tongue
are juxtaposed with fresh interpretations of classics like the “egg salad” of fried duck egg, trout roe and cured egg yolks. Suwincha Singsuwan (aka Bangkok’s queen of cocktails) is responsible for the wildly creative drinks. Kanniyakumari Last December, chef Salil Mehta and culinary director Dipesh Shinde opened Kebab aur Sharab on the Upper West Side to sensational reviews. The duo is following up their kebab-focused hit later this fall with Kanniyakumari. Named after a city in India’s state of Tamil Nadu, the Union Square–based restaurant will focus on the cuisine of southern India as well as influences from neighboring Sri Lanka. Expect to be wowed by regional dishes like pillai fish, a traditional Kerala curry, and drinks such as panakam, a sweet and tangy Tamil Nadu beverage made with jaggery, lemon juice, ginger and cardamom.
claims to have tasted over 1,000 burgers throughout New York City. Unsatisfied with the quality, he started grilling his own at pop-up events that went viral on TikTok. His cult-smash burgers finally got a brick-and-mortar home this fall at the Gotham Bar Social Club on the Lower East Side. The star of the menu is Puma’s signature Oklahoma-style onion burger, but he’ll also be serving nostalgic items like homemade onion rings, tater tots, fries and egg creams.—J.M. 10 I N D A G A R E . C O M
PHOTO BY EVAN SUNG
Must-Try Burger Former Wall Street exec Mike Puma
Design News: Setting the Table
FAVORITE FIND: PORTA, a beautifully curated homewares store, designed by Studio Giancarlo Valle, on Brooklyn’s shopping-centric Atlantic Avenue. BACK STORY: Created by lifelong friends Alice Russotti and Francesca del Balzo (pictured left)—two London natives now living in Brooklyn—PORTA spotlights the craftsmanship of independent artisans and local makers discovered by the oh-so-chic pair on travels throughout Europe and beyond. WHAT WE LOVE: Many of the collections are sourced from Italy, Portugal and France—their exclusive collaboration launched in October with French artist and ceramicist Laetitia Rouget, whose whimsical pieces emphasize color, cheek and the occasional Matisse-inspired motif.—E.H.
WORLD OF DESIGN Hungry for more global finds? We’ve partnered with1stDibs, the online
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHOTOS BY DAISY JOHNSON COURTESY PORTA; INSET: COURTESY THE RITZ-CARLTON NIKKO
marketplace that vets the finest sellers and makers in vintage, antique and contemporary furniture; home décor; art; fine jewelry; and more—sourced from more than 600 cities. Happy hunting! Indagare members receive 20 percent off your first purchase on1stDibs (up to $375) and an exclusive consultation with one of its Private Client specialists when you sign up for a 1stDibs account at 1stdibs.com/about/indagare-partnership. —E.H.
The Onsen Experience: Nikko, Japan Ninety-five miles north of Tokyo, Nikko is known for its famous UNESCO World Heritage sites, particularly Toshogu Shrine complex, a gilded memorial to the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, which ruled Japan during the Edo period. Locals retreat here to experience the gorgeous mountain scenery on the edge of Nikko National Park and expansive Lake Chuzenji— and to spend time at the legendary hot springs (onsen). Guests at The Ritz-Carlton, Nikko
can indulge in a restorative immersion in both onsen culture and nature at the Ritz spa, with its indoor-outdoor onsen fed from the springs, and take in the serene surroundings. They can also enjoy activities both on- and off-property such as paddleboarding on Lake Chuzenji; a traditional Buddhist fire ceremony at Chuzenji Temple; wood carving with an expert; an e-bike history tour with a visit to the mesmerizing Kegon Falls and more. —SYDNEY LAPIN
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INDAGARE IMPACT: CONSERVATION UPDATE 2023 Each Indagare membership contributes to our carbon neutrality, as well as to our Impact Fund. Indagare’s Peter Schlesinger highlights one of the fund’s recipient initiatives—and how much progress has been made.
“The ultimate hope for conservation,” says Lion Recovery Fund’s Dr. Peter Lindsey (pictured below),“ is that the world finds a way to properly value nature and invest in its preservation.” As part of the Indagare Impact initiative, Indagare fully supports the Long Shields Lion Guardans, one of the LRF’s projects in Zimbabwe. The locally run program works to improve coexistence between agricultural communities that surround Hwange National Park and the area’s lions (who have no concept of park boundaries). Teams of so-called Guardians “prevent conflict between lions and pastoralists by reducing the frequency with which livestock is killed by lions. In turn, this reduces the frequency with which angry farmers kill lions in retaliation,” explains Dr. Lindsey. Read the full Q&A on indagare.com/travel-impact.
YOUR IMPACT DOLLARS AT WORK $407,050 Value of livestock transferred from high-risk areas
15,659 Total miles patrolled by Guardians on foot, bicycle or vehicle
8 Lions chased out of livestock areas
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COURTESY PETER LINDSEY; INDAGARE
Residents alerted via WhatsApp or phone of the nearby presence of a collar-tracked lion
ANNIVERSARY: FOGO ISLAND TURNS 10 THERE ARE STILL A FEW places that feel as if you’re teetering right on the edge of the world. On a small island, off a big island, in Newfoundland, Canada, Fogo Island Inn is one such place. About as remote as can be, it is not only far-flung but intimate, with 29 guest rooms and suites. The dramatic floor-toceiling windows provide a front-row seat to the Atlantic Ocean and some of the most rugged and wild geography on the planet. Zita Cobb built the property on the principles of sustainability and respect for nature and culture (100 percent of operating surpluses are reinvested into the local community). Earlier this year, Cobb joined Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley on her SiriusXM podcast Passport to Everywhere to discuss the inn’s 10th anniversary (and its creation story). “It takes three days,” Cobb explained, when it comes to what visitors can expect when traveling to Fogo Island. “First your body arrives, and then your mind starts to arrive, and by the third day your soul starts to arrive. So, our job is to help you arrive.”
27 types of berries indigenous to the island. Throughout the year, activities range from hiking to pottery making and pond swimming to whale watching and stargazing, fishing, yoga, bicycling, soaking in the rooftop hot tubs or visiting nearby Gander (made famous in the Broadway hit Come From Away). Sometimes you have to be in the edge of the world to change it. Hear the full episode at indagare.com/siriusxm-passport-to-everywhere.—TREY ROSS
TOP AND CENTER: PHOTOS BY ALEX FRADKIN, COURTESY FOGO ISLAND INN; BOTTOM: PHOTO BY JENNY SCHRODER, COURTESY INDAGARE
Despite its subarctic location, Fogo Island is a year-round destination. The island has seven seasons—Cobb’s favorite is berry season (September 1 to October 31)—when guests can pick the
Out in the Open: A Bali Retreat At Buahan, deep in the jungle north of Ubud, it won’t be lost on guests that the exquisite Banyan Tree Escape is open to the elements. There isn’t, in fact, a single wall or door—from the zerowaste farm-to-table restaurant and eco-chic lounge centered around an outdoor kitchen to the spa. Rooms, with massive copper tubs, double sinks and private plunge pools, are separated from nature by a mosquito netting perimeter. Bamboo shutters can be unrolled, but that would miss the point of this high-touch, sustainable immersion. A friendly frog may even stare up at you from your toilet bowl, so do mind the lid.—BRIDGET MCELROY 13
Ambassadors on duty, left, post island picnic with Lalla Marrakech bags and Aloha Marina sarongs. Below, from top: Trip highlights, from villas to whale-watching.
The Destination: Islas Secas private island reserve and lodge in the Gulf of Chiriqui, Panama. Call of the wild: The frigate birds nesting in mangroves reminded us of the Galápagos; the howler monkeys and the colorful waterside cottages cried Costa Rica. But our four adventure-packed days taught us this can only be one place: Panama. Spoiled for choice: We set out from the lodge at 9:00 a.m., and by 9:25 were pulling up 40-pound dorado just offshore. (Our catch would later become the most delicious ceviche, served with beautiful local vegetables and simply grilled meats, and craft cocktails from the tiki bar.) Next on the itinerary? Scuba diving with our Panamanian marine biologist guide before traveling by yacht to a deserted island for a picnic. Our biggest challenge was taking advantage of all the exceptional activities—and leaving the Tom Scheerer–designed villas built into the cliffs overlooking the ocean. Why we love it: Just one hour by private plane from Panama City, this elegant adult summer camp is the answer to the question, “Where to celebrate a milestone?” —ELISE BRONZO Contact your Trip Designer to learn about a villa stay at Islas Secas.
FAMILY TRAVELS “In Morocco, our guide took us to his home for tea, and his wife, who was a henna artist, did this amazing henna for all of us…. In India, we did a cooking class in someone’s home—their kids came down and did it with us…. And when it comes to eating out, we don’t want all the fancy restaurants, we want to go where the locals go. That’s what makes it culturally rich.” —SUE GRONER, FOUNDER OF THE PARENTING MENTOR PODCAST AND INDAGARE MEMBER 14 I N D A G A R E . C O M
ELISE BRONZO, COURTESY INDAGARE; OPPOSITE PAGE: TOP, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: GREGOIRE GARDETTE / LA RÉSERVE HOTELS; LES AIRELLES COURCHEVEL; HOTEL DU CAP-EDEN ROC; HOTEL LUTETIA; BOTTOM, FROM LEFT: CLAIRE COCANO / HOTEL LE BRISTOL; HOTEL LUTETIA AND ATOUT FRANCE.
INDAGARE AMBASSADORS: JUST BACK FROM PANAMA
Our Partner: Palaces de France Paris is home to 12 “palace hotels,” but they are not the only ones. There are 19 other such hotels—officially, “Palaces de France”—in France and St. Barth’s. John Cantrell reports. Indagare is pleased to announce that we are part of the French government’s effort to help tell the stories behind some of the country’s most magical hotels—the best of Paris, and beyond. In September we joined Atout France, the French Tourism Development Agency, in a partnership aimed at celebrating 31 of France’s most exquisite and exemplary hotels, recognizing their contributions to travel and culture and sharing what makes each one special both inside and outside the industry. Many of the Palaces de France will require little introduction for Indagare travelers. Year after year, Paris remains the number one destination for us, and its palace properties are often among the first hotels we suggest when planning their trips. For many guests, Paris is an ultimate pleasure, and part of that pleasure is staying at an ultimate hotel, such as the George V, Le Bristol, the Crillon or the Plaza Athénée. There are, however, Palaces de France that are not in Paris—the majority of them, in fact, including the Château de la Messardière in St.-Tropez, the Royal Evian in Évian-les-Bains, and La Bastide de Gordes, in Gordes. Nor are all Palaces de France hotels set in historic buildings—some are relatively new enterprises in relatively new structures, such as
K2 in Courchevel (opened in 2011), and its neighbor, L’Apogée (2013). But no matter their age or location— on the Riviera, in the Alps, in the southwest or even outside the mainland (Cheval Blanc in St. Barth’s is a Palaces de France hotel, even amidst its French Caribbean setting!)—all 31 properties are similar in one key aspect. Each offers hospitality to a degree that exceeds the five-star level, a rating that, in 2023, Atout France has given to 31 other luxury properties. Palaces properties are their own “super class” of five-star French hotels—or, as Caroline Leboucher, the CEO of Atout France likes to say,“they transcend the traditional star-rating system.” As part of our partnership, Indagare will be producing a multiyear video series focusing on each of the Palaces de France properties. Stay tuned for more stories online and in print sharing some of the considerations that go into awarding the designation (there are more than 300 criteria). Since 1868 haute couture has been regulated by France’s Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée system. We’re proud to be chosen by Atout France, which has overseen the classification of all French hotels since 2010, to help in safeguarding another of France’s greatest luxury offerings to the world: the Palaces de France.
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C U LT U R E
WATC H
The Culturalist’s Calendar Mario R. Mercado details what’s on at the world’s leading institutions, including museum openings, new exhibitions and live performances.
Boston
Dress was integral to the portraits of John Singer Sargent. Clothing variously revealed subjects’ personalities, social standing, professions and nationalities, and the painter assumed an active role in the cultivation of his sitters’ appearance, readily altering what his clients wore. ”Fashioned by Sargent” at the Museum of Fine Arts pairs 50 paintings with more than a dozen period garments and accessories to illuminate the relationship between fashion and Sargent’s creative work. Through January 15, 2024.
Washington, D.C.
This season, there may be no more joyful show than “Composing Color: Paintings by Alma Thomas” at the Smithsonian Museum of American Art. Thomas’s paintings were made after her retirement from a long career as a schoolteacher. Her art, characterized by patterns—circles, abstract images—and vibrant, pulsating color, evolved throughout a remarkably productive 35 years. Through June 2, 2024.
Seattle
The Seattle Art Museum’s show “Calder: In Motion, The Shirley Family Collection” celebrates a major gift from Jon 16 I N D A G A R E . C O M
and Kim Shirley of works by Alexander Calder—mobiles, stabiles, standing mobiles, wire sculptures, works on paper—to the Seattle Art Museum. Nearly 50 key works highlight every decade of Calder’s career, from the 1920s to the 1970s, demonstrating the experimentation and innovation that characterized his creative genius. On view November 8, 2023–August 4, 2024.
Mexico City
Ten years ago, the Museo Jumex opened its doors in the Polanco area of Mexico City. The museum houses its collection of contemporary art, assembled by Eugenio López Alonso, in a striking four-story building designed by David Chipperfield. A travertine façade, distinctive sawtooth roof and broad lateral windows infuse much of the building with light. Correspondingly, this fall, the anniversary exhibition, “Everything Gets Lighter,” considers light, as subject and medium, in the work of 65 artists, from Gabriel Orozco to James Turrell. On view November 18, 2023–February 11, 2024.
New York City
With more than 150 paintings and works on paper by two of the most influential painters of the 19th century, “Manet/Degas” at the Metropolitan Museum of Art
Berlin & Potsdam
Clockwise, from left: Alma Thomas, Atmospheric Effects II, 1971; Museum Barberini in Potsdam; La Carmencita by John Singer Sargent; Edson Chagas, Tipo Passe 2014 at Tate Modern’s “A World in Common.” See more fall cultural news at indagare.com.
examines the artistic relationship, sometimes friendly, at times adversarial, between Édouard Manet and Edgar Degas. Both were born in the 1830s, and their careers outlined the emergence of Paris as a modern metropolis, which they painted generously. Achievements are considered side by side, showing how their aim and approaches coincided and differed. Through January 7, 2024.
Few artists are identified as much by a single work as Edvard Munch is for The Scream. But the Norwegian painter’s work encompassed far more than images of existential angst. Two exhibitions in Berlin provide an abundant overview: “Magic of the North” at the Berlinische Galerie considers Munch’s stay in the German capital (between 1892 and 1908) and its influence. Eighty works, including landscapes and portraits, shift the perspective to the psychological underpinning of Munch’s visual worlds. “Edvard Munch: Trembling Earth” at the Museum Barberini in Potsdam reveals the artist’s deep fascination with nature, its self-renewing power and dynamism. In Berlin: through January 22, 2024; in Potsdam: November 18, 2023– April 1, 2024.
Canberra, Australia
“Mark Rothko” brings together approximately 115 works from leading museums and private collections to trace the American artist’s career from figurative paintings to abstract works characterized by rectangular shapes, saturated in yellow, red, ocher and blue, seemingly suspended within the canvas. The mesmerizing show is on display throughout the foundation’s spaces. October 18, 2023–April 2, 2024.
Remarkably, Emily Kame Kngwarreye, an Aboriginal Australian artist from the Northern Territory, did not paint until age 78. In a period of approximately seven years, she produced an astonishing 3,000 pieces—brightly colored works that reflect the patterns and textures of the landscape in Alhalkere, where she was born and raised, north of Alice Springs. The entrancing “Utopia: The Genius of Emily Kame” show at National Gallery of Australia displays canvases from her brief and intensely productive career and benefits from the expertise of First Nations curators who knew her family. On view December 2, 2023–April 28, 2024.
Clockwise, from top: Smithsonian American Art Museum; Tate Modern / Lucy Green, courtesy of the artist and Apalazzo Gallery; Helge Mundt courtesy Museum Barberini; Paris, Musée d’Orsay © RMN-Grand Palais / Art Resource NY, courtesy Museum of Fine Arts, Boston
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Paris
New York City
Spotlight on PAC Years in the making, the striking Perelman Performing Arts Center has opened at the World Trade Center. Amid neighboring sky-scrapers, the eight-story, white-marble cube designed by Joshua Ramus/REX is modest in scale. But it is spectacular in design, with three stages that can be configured 60 ways—to showcase music, theater, dance, opera and film. Programming is commensurately wide-ranging. December sees performances by the lively, genre-crossing string and vocal trio, Time for Three, and an evening with Broadway stars Orfeh and Andy Karl.
Amsterdam The Paleis Het Loo, two hours east of Amsterdam, was built in 1686 as a hunting lodge for William III and Queen Mary. The palace remained a summer residence of the Dutch royal family throughout much of the 20th century before opening to the public in 1984. Now, after a renovation of more than $180 million, it has unveiled a remarkable 54,000-square-foot expansion, uniquely placed beneath the palace courtyard. The extension includes a new entrance hall, galleries, and an exhibition on the history of the House of Orange, and the entire palace was restored to accommodate the display of the royal art collection.
DANCE: Coastal Milestones Two of the most renowned ballet companies in the U.S. celebrate milestones, as San Francisco Ballet turns 90 and New York City Ballet 75. With an exciting new director, the ex-Royal Ballet ballerina Tamara Rojo, San Francisco Ballet heads into the new season with Mere Mortals, by Canadian choreographer Aszure Barton, and the North American premiere of Broken
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Wings (above), a ballet by Annabelle Lopez Ochoa. On the East Coast, New York City Ballet is already in full exuberance mode with landmark ballets by George Balanchine and Jerome Robbins, as well as by current star resident choreographers Alexei Ratmansky and Justin Peck. Look for up-and-comers Mira Nadon and Roman Mejia—the next generation of astounding artistry.
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP: IWAN BAAN / PERELMAN PERFORMING ARTS CENTER; LAURENT LIOTARDO / SAN FRANCISCO BALLET; PALEIS HET LOO
A ROYAL NEW LOOK
PERFORMANCES
HIGH NOTES
FROM LEFT: MARTY SOHL/METROPOLITAN OPERA; MATTHEW MURPHY / MERRILY WE ROLL ALONG
The Los Angeles Philharmonic celebrates 20 years in Frank Gehry’s swooping Walt Disney Concert Hall in grand style, coproducing the California Festival, a statewide showcase of new music. Looking to the future, the orchestra will be mounting world premieres of 12 commissioned works from composers Gabriela Ortiz, Timo Andres and Veronika Krausas, among others.• Amid a season of new productions of late-20th-century operas—Dead Man Walking, Florencia en el Amazonas, X: The Life and Times of Malcolm X—New York City’s Metropolitan Opera also pays tribute to its storied past. In November, it revives Otto Schenk’s evocative 1977 production of Wagner’s German romantic opera Tannhäuser. An exceptional cast includes tenor Andreas Schager in the title role, with soprano Elza van den Heever, mezzo-soprano Ekaterina Gubanova and baritone Christian Gerhaher, led by conductor Donald Runnicles. November 23–December 30.
London & New York City
Top Tickets LONDON: Harriet Walter takes a star turn as the matriarch in Federico García Lorca’s family drama The House of Bernarda Alba. November 16, 2023–January 6, 2024 . • Joseph Fiennes headlines Dear England, a rousing drama about the England soccer team in the 2017 World Cup. Through January 13, 2024. • Backstairs Billy is an offbeat comedy set during Thatcherite England about the Queen Mother, played by Downton Abbey’s Penelope Wilton, and her loyal servant Billy Tallon, played by Luke Evans. Through January 27, 2024.• Pulitzer Prize winner Annie Baker’s new play Infinite Life is a frank study of illness and pain, variously endured by a group of patients, alongside desire and humor that marks the human condition. November 22, 2023–January 13, 2024. •Stranger Things: The First Shadow adapts the Netflix series to the stage, from the same producers as Harry Potter and the Cursed Child. November 17, 2023–March 31, 2024. NEW YORK CITY: Stephen Sondheim’s Merrily We Roll Along (above)stars Daniel Radcliffe, Tony winner Lindsay Mendez, and musical theater leading man Jonathan Groff. Through March 24, 2024. • Josh Gad and Andrew Rannells play two clueless musical theater writers as they attempt to musicalize the life of Johannes Gutenberg in the hilarious Gutenberg! The Musical! Through January 28, 2024.• Joshua Harmon’s acclaimed A Prayer for the French Republic spans 70 years in the life of a Jewish family, dealing with the sense of home and the effects of ancient enmity. December 19, 2023–February 4, 2024.
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C O M M U N I T Y
MEMBER TRAVELS
Norwegian fjords. Opposite, from top: Copenhagen’s Strøget, the longest walking street in Europe; flowers at Ett Hem. Photos by Indagare member Anne T.
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PHOTO CREDIT TKT
Members of the Indagare community found their most enjoyable travel moments this year in nature’s playground. Here’s a look at a few of their adventures and the memories they made that will last a lifetime.
- THE TRIP -
S C A N D I N AV I A N T R I O
STOCKHOLM: “Ett Hem was amazing. The setting was perfect, with cozy furniture, beautiful fresh flowers and lovely outdoor spaces (terraces, gardens, greenhouses). The service was excellent—attentive without being too much and with nice touches like snacks in the kitchen and an honor bar in the main living room…. Biking was fun and we had a lovely coffee in the park. The Vasa Museum was a highlight—amazing to see the entire ship almost as it was in 1628 when it sank.”
PHOTO CREDIT TKT
THE NORWEGIAN FJORDS: “Storfjord Hotel is the most relaxing, wonderful place… the setting is stunning. The boat trip was a great way to see the fjords—it is nice to be able to dictate how you want to explore…. Kayaking was a fun way to see the fjords from a different vantage point. We were a bit skeptical of the e-bike part of our hike, but it allowed us to get to a trailhead that was more removed, and we were able to hike to a beautiful mountain lake—we did not see a soul. We heard about the farming culture and lifestyle from our guide, Al. I enjoyed eating blueberries and raspberries off the bushes!” COPENHAGEN: “We loved everything about Copenhagen—the setting on the water, the culture, people, food, shopping. We had a chance the first day as well as the last day to walk around and enjoyed exploring the city…. Dinner at Kadeau was a highlight in a trip that had an incredibly high bar.” —Indagare member Anne T.
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- THE TRIP -
EAST AFRICAN ADVENTURE
FAVORITE LODGE: “I loved Mwiba… The dramatic setting, the yellow love bird tree, the waterfall, the welcoming staff and delicious vegetarian fare. It’s a great place from which to witness the beginnings of the Great Migration.” MOST MEMORABLE WILDLIFE MOMENT: “It was calving season in the Serengeti when I visited, and we caught the birth of a baby wildebeest.” FAVORITE MEMORY: “Tanzania’s Rift Valley Children’s Village captured my heart like nothing before…. The orphanage cares for over 100 children. It’s a beautiful, inspiring space.” WHY DID YOU TAKE THIS TRIP ALONE? “When I am on my own, I spend more time with locals, particularly my amazing guides. Jason from Mwiba took me to the village where he grew up. I met his mother, grandmother, wife and son. This bond (we still keep in touch) would not have formed had I been traveling in a group.” —Indagare Community insider, Kim Heirston
- THE TRIP -
MID-TRIP REFLECTIONS ON THE CALIFORNIA COAST
“We have just settled in at Bernardus Lodge & Spa, which we just love. Our room overlooks their beautiful rose garden. We had dinner at a chic restaurant in Carmel-by-the-Sea called Chez Noir…. In the morning we drove up to Muir Woods for a challenging hike into the forest. We ate lunch at the coolest place near Sausalito’s Floating homes called Fish. We sat outside at picnic tables by the marina, watched the seals swim and had some absolutely excellent food.” —Indagare member Lee Evans
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- THE TRIP -
FA M I LY E S C A P E TO ST. BARTH’S
PHOTOS (TOP AND BOTTOM RIHGT) COURTESY ROSEWOOD LE GUANAHANI; (MIDDLE AND BOTTOM LEFT): COURTESY BY BOB & LILLY ROSS
FAVORITE HOTEL: “The Rosewood Le Guanahani was a perfect spot for families. Upon arrival, the general manager met us at check-in—really the entire staff was remarkable. The concierge includes a team of five, and you can text them anything you need, which I did multiple times a day. We were upgraded to The Bougainvillea Suite, with a beautiful pool and deck with incredible views of the ocean.” FAVORITE ACTIVITY: “Our scuba-diving experience was wonderful for our kids, with amazing guides who helped spot a nurse shark on our third dive. On our final dive, we truly felt like we were in a fish tank with so much wildlife. We rented a speedboat on two days and had a great experience with fun and knowledgeable captains, trying out a Seabob for the first time ever. We had a convertible Mini Cooper (very much needed) to scoot around the island and to dinners in Gustavia.” —Indagare members Bob & Lilly Ross
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C I T Y
S C E N E
THE BIG SMOKE HEATS UP
Editorial Director Annie Fitzsimmons shares the highlights of what’s new and notable in the British capital this fall. NO OTHER CITY HAS the hotel buzz that London has right now. With lavish, splashy openings that go beyond five stars and more big hotel brands moving in to claim their piece of this ever-evolving capital city, it is comforting to know that black cabs, red phone booths, afternoon tea and pomp and circumstance endure. Below are four of the biggest openings— stay the night or pop in for tea or a drink. Plus, the best exhibits, shows and restaurants to know now in London, as Britain still adjusts to life in the new Carolean age with King Charles III’s reign.
HOTEL NEWS
The Peninsula London Five minutes from Hyde Park, the 190-room Peninsula London is set in Belgravia with a quiet courtyard entrance centered around Japanese maple trees and signature green Rolls-Royces lined up. The brand embarked on a decades-long search before finding its ideal London location, and everything is deeply glamorous. Entry-level rooms are huge; all feel ultra-luxe with futuristic (but easy-to-understand) technology–every room even has a nail dryer and a printer. Book a room with a view of Wellington Arch and settle in at 10:40 a.m. to watch the guards en route to Buckingham Palace. There is a lively patisserie and coffee shop; The Lobby restaurant has Hyde Park murals (more than 40 artists were commissioned from the Royal Drawing School to create original artwork throughout the property) and crave-worthy dishes like a “goodness bowl,” plus the classic afternoon tea the
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Peninsula is known for. Rooftop restaurant Brooklands is crowned with a model of the Concorde on the ceiling and has a sexy bar with panoramic London views, while Canton Blue transports guests to China with Cantonese cuisine, intimate, colorful seating and an exquisite blue fireplace. Stay tuned: a spa and wellness center will open later this year. Raffles London at the Old War Office The opening date was pushed a few times, but Raffles London at the Old War Office (OWO) has finally opened on Whitehall—and it feels like a legend already. The 120-room hotel and urban gathering hub were designed by the late Thierry Despont, who also oversaw the restoration of the Ritz Paris. Historic details abound—from the dazzling grand staircase (where, apparently, Winston Churchill would expound from the balcony) to former executive offices turned Heritage suites and landmarked floors. There are nine restaurants and three bars: book tables at the all-day Saison by chef Mauro Colagreco (the man behind Mirazur on the Côte d’Azur), one of London’s most beautiful new restaurant interiors that also serves afternoon tea, or the outpost of Paris’s Café Lapérouse in the central courtyard to start. If you’re a guest, you’ll have an easier time scoring a reservation at the Spy Bar, located in a former interrogation room with a full-size Aston Martin on display. For one of London’s best wellness experiences, book into the hotel’s 27,000-square-foot Guerlain spa, with an incredible indoor pool with a double-height ceiling.
Sustainable hotel brand 1 Hotels comes to London with a new Mayfair location. Clockwise from top right: Winston Churchill’s old office is now the new Raffles hotel; Little Blue cocktail bar at The Peninsula London; a colorful new room at The BoTree London.
1 Hotel Mayfair Known for its commitment to sustainability, 1 Hotels has made its London (and European) debut in Mayfair, across from Green Park and a short walk from The Wolseley and Fortnum & Mason. With 187 rooms, the hotel is also home to the wonderful Dovetale by chef Tom Sellers (who has worked alongside Thomas Keller and Rene Redzepi), cocktail bar Dover Yard, coffee spot Neighbours and a Bamford Wellness Spa. As with the other properties in the portfolio, there is a big investment in plants and greenery—here, with more than 1,300 individual plants across the property. (There is absolutely no sign of the previous hotel on-site, a Holiday Inn.) For a worthy splurge, the one-bedroom Green Park Penthouse Suite is one of Mayfair’s largest, at nearly 3,000 square feet. The BoTree London Named for the Bodhi Tree, where Buddha was said to have attained enlightenment while meditating, the entire vibe of this new hotel, part of Preferred Hotels, has an overall calming effect. Elements of nature abound, from the exterior covered in lush vegetation to the coastal Italian restaurant LAVO, where the centerpiece is a wise olive tree; there are citrus trees and tree Courtesy of 1 Hotel Mayfair; Courtesy of Raffles Old War Office; Courtesy of The Peninsula London; Courtesy of The BoTree London
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sculptures on the ceiling. All 199 rooms have Wedgwood espresso and tea cups and an Alessi kettle. The approach here is “purpose-driven” with recycled leather bins and coasters, the hiring of local craftspeople to support the build and a partnership with Jo Loves for sustainable amenities. Located where Marylebone meets Mayfair—and not far from Soho—the location is one of London’s best.
MUSEUM NEWS
In spring 2020, the National Portrait Gallery closed, re-emerging this June after a $53 million renovation. The portrait collection is the largest in the world and consists of more than 220,000 pieces, telling the story of Britain through the people who shape it. Portraits of modern icons, including King Charles III, the Princess of Wales, Dame Judi Dench and Ed Sheeran, are particularly striking. The rooftop Portrait Restaurant by Richard Corrigan still has one of the best views of Big Ben and the London skyline, though the menu may be too fussy for some (pigs’ feet; duck hearts; pasta with snails). At the Tate Britain, “Sarah Lucas: Happy Gas” debuted with more than 75 bold sculptures—all conversation starters that explore the human body, sex and class systems. Lucas was part of a group dubbed (later) as the Young British Artists (YBA’s) in the 1980’s, a group that included Damien Hirst and a major art movement that revitalized the British art scene. Through January 14, 2024.
From top: A bold dish at Pavyllon; the National Portrait Gallery has reopened after a massive renovation; and Trafalgar Square. Opposite: Socca brings Côte d’Azur flair to Mayfair.
In leafy south London, at the brilliant Dulwich Picture Gallery, “Rubens & Women” aims to challenge the notion that Peter Paul Rubens painted only one (fleshy) type of woman through a study of his relationships with women and his faith. Visit beautiful Dulwich Park before or after, and stop for a pint at The Crown & Greyhound pub on Dulwich’s high street. Through January 28, 2024. The controversially postponed ”Philip Guston Now,” a retrospective of the American artist’s 50-year career, has arrived in London at the Tate Modern after runs in Boston, Houston and Washington, D.C. Through February 25, 2024
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COURTESY SOCCA; ANNIE FITZSIMMONS (NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY); JEN BARR (SCENIC)
The exhibit of the season is “Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto” at the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) in South Kensington, charting how Chanel evolved in style—and fame—through the decades, interpreted through fashion pieces, portraits, jewelry, bags and more. With many tickets sold out, consider becoming a V&A member (starting at £77) to see the exhibit at any time, with no booking. Through February 25, 2024.
Editor’s Picks: Best in Show RESTAURANTS TO KNOW NOW
Socca is a neighborhood gathering spot from chef Claude Bosi of Bibendum in Chelsea evoking Southern France in décor and food. Mount St. Restaurant is a great choice for art connoisseurs from Swiss art gallery Hauser & Wirth, which also owns Scotland’s The Fife Arms. The art, including mosaic floors by Rashid Johnson, is bold, but it can be loud at dinner so it isn’t a place for a quiet tête à tête. The Twenty Two, a new Mayfair hot spot, is part hotel and part member’s club, but the restaurant is open to anyone all day for delicious Mediterranean-meets-classic-British fare.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY SOCCA; (DEAR ENGLAND) PHOTO BY MARC BRENNER
Lorian in Chelsea, just off Sloane Square and parallel to forever-charming Pavilion Road, serves perfect salads and sandwiches; plus scrambled eggs and pastries all day. Pavyllon, now at Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane, brings new energy into this hotel’s dining scene, previously reserved for al fresco business lunches. Chef Yannick Alléno holds 15 Michelin stars at his restaurants in France, and this marks his first foray into Britain. Just opened at the National Theatre is 160-seat Forza Wine, whose Peckham, South London, location, has been a favorite for snacks, drinks and excellent London views for years. The signature soft-serve ice cream is a Forza must.
Joseph Fiennes plays coach Gareth Southgate in Dear England, which recounts Southgate’s career and the deep national pride that ebbs and flows with team England’s wins, losses and total heartbreaks. The show has been transferred to the West End’s Prince Edward Theatre from its original run at the National Theatre. Through January 13. David Tennant and Cush Jumbo will star in MacBeth, with previews starting at the Donmar Warehouse on December 8. Through February 10. Roald Dahl’s Matilda has been a West End sensation since it opened in 2011. Will Dahl magic strike twice? Starting November 7, The Witches will start at the National Theatre, an adaptation of the slightly terrifying children’s book into a (hopefully more fun than scary) musical. Recommended for ages eight and up. Through January 27, 2024 (at least).
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O U T D O O R S
THE DOWNLOAD: SKI REPORT 2024
Indagare’s Abby Sandman looks at what to expect this season, from Aspen to the Alps. Plus: A ski safari in the Dolomites, and more.
Whether you’re thinking about your first ski trip, an annual holiday getaway or one of many slope-side escapes for the coming season, planning ahead is the best way to ensure that everything from the tickets and guides to the hotels goes your way. With so many moving pieces to consider, I’ve laid out the planning process from start to finish, including when and where to go, what passes to buy and tips for finding the best snow conditions, when to hire a guide and navigating holiday crowds. Here’s what to know as you plan your next ski trip — I know I already am.
A TASTE FOR SKIING This season eight participating Alta Badia mountain huts in the Dolomites have been paired with a gourmet chef to create simple signature dishes for skiers using local ingredients. Chefs include Ana Roš of two-Michelin-starred Hiša Franko (which also has a Green Star) and Massimiliano Alajmo of three-Michelin-starred Le Calandre. No reservations required.
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What to Know: The El Niño Effect
Skiers in southern Colorado, Utah, California and New Mexico may see a shift in weather patterns—and a drier, snowier season—during an El Niño year like this one. Forecasts are somewhat less promising for skiers in the Pacific Northwest, Canada and New England, which often see warmer temperatures and less snow. Of course, these are just predictions—and ski season is always unpredictable.
On the Rise: Ticket Prices
Once again, popular resorts like Deer Valley and Aspen Snowmass are raising daily ski pass prices, offering further motivation to plan ahead and purchase multi-mountain passes like the Ikon and Epic.
Changing of the Guard at Jackson Hole
With big companies like Vail Resorts (Epic) and Alterra (Ikon) dominating in recent years, Jackson Hole has stood out as one of the few top resorts that has retained family-owned status. But with no succession plan in place, after 31 years of ownership, Kemmerer siblings Jay, Connie and Betty have decided it’s time to sell—to family friends and JHMR board members Eric Macy and Mike Corbat (former CEO of Citigroup), both Jackson Hole residents who are committed to preserving the ethos and traditions of this rugged darling of the West.
New Cable Between Switzerland and Italy
For the first winter season ever, skiers will be able to traverse seamlessly between the slopes of Zermatt, Switzerland, and Cervinia, Italy. In just four minutes, you can be whisked across the border via the Matterhorn Glacier Ride II—at more than 11,000 feet above sea level it’s the highest cable car crossing in the Alps, connecting the peaks of Klein Matterhorn and Testa Grigia—which began operation on July 1. This year, Zermatt will also celebrate the 125th anniversary of
COURTESY DOLOMITE MOUNTAINS; OPPOSITE: PHOTO BY ALEX MOLING, COURTESY ALTA BADIA TOURISM
WINTER IS ALWAYS COMING—at least, that’s the mindset I grew up with. And having skied 46 mountains and averaged 40 ski days a year since age five, that means there is hardly a time of year when I’m not planning (or at least conceiving of ) my next ski trip. A good thing, since the sport has only gained traction in the past few years, with record-breaking crowds driving many mountains to cap daily ticket sales. One thing that will never change though is the unpredictability of the snow forecast, which makes controlling what you can that much more important.
Skiing at Alta Badia
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3 Questions For: Arlberg’s Nina Gigele The ski guide and co-author of Inside the Arlberg offers advice.
the Gornergrat Railway, the first fully electrified cog railway, which climbs nearly 5,000 feet, ensuring dramatic views of the mountains. Special experiences will include an exclusive day trip aboard a sleek coach with meals, drinks, photo stops and stories as well as a new exhibition on railway’s history at the Matterhorn Museum (open until summer 2024).
Sustainable Dining in Gstaad
Executive chef Martin Göschel of the Michelin-starred Sommet at The Alpina Gstaad has brought sustainable dining to the slopes. Extra top-notch ingredients from his restaurant are transformed into delicious on-mountain dishes served out of a snowcat. Get there by taking the Gstaad-Eggli gondola to the ski lift up to Vorderes Eggli.
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Any good hacks or tips for traveling with ski equipment? “On my first long trip to New Zealand, I had so much gear. I didn’t need all of it. My next trip, I reduced it by half. Nowadays, I pack once and then say ‘okay, I have to leave half of it,’ and then I pack again. I use the gear from Db. I have their ski bag and a bag for my boots and helmet.” What’s new in the Arlberg? “I can’t wait to get back on skis. Especially when it’s snowing in the Alps. I’m excited that the glacier areas are opening, the crevasses are covered in snow and so we can do some really fun stuff there—after the lack of good snow last year—so we all hope for a proper good season.”
PHOTO BY TINO RISCHAWY; OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHOTO BY FIORENZO CALOSSO, COURTESY GARDENA GRÖDNERHOF; COURTESY INDAGARE; PHOTO BY ALEX MOLING, COURTESY ALTA BADIA TOURISM
What are your three favorite ski mountains, and why? “I like the Arlberg in Austria most, then the Dolomites in Italy and Engelberg, Switzerland. The Arlberg is well-known for off-piste opportunities, mogul skiing— and for being a free-spirit playground. In the Dolomites, I like the couloir skiing for something more technical, but on-piste, I like the area around Sexten, because the long downhill runs all the way to the village are usually amazing. The Engelberg is amazing, too, because you have the glaciers and a lot of off-piste terrain. It’s a really fun place— especially when it’s dumping.”
ITINERARY
Diary of a Ski Safari in the Dolomites Deluxe Suite living room at Gardena Grödnerhof Hotel. Clockwise from top right: charcuterie at Ristorante Col Drusciè 1778; cruising the slopes at Alta Badia.
An epic four-day adventure in the Dolomites, involving awe-inspiring cruising trails lined with sparkling ice walls, dramatic rock towers, the imposing ridgelines the region is famous for—and four days of delicious rifugio meals.
spend the night, mountainside, in a family-owned rifugio hut. Here, we were doted on by the owner’s kindly mother, who spoke very little English but was adamant that late afternoons were a time for snacks and wine, not tea.
DAY 1: A red-eye to Venice, a drowsy flight and a two-hour car ride through the northern Italian countryside, and we arrived at the Ampezzo Valley, home of the famous ski town which will cohost the Winter Olympic Games for a second time in 2026. After wandering the village’s cobblestoned streets filled with colorful, Tyrolean-style buildings and shops, we retreated to Rosapetra SPA Resort, an oasis of peace and privacy just outside of town, with a tasty restaurant, a rejuvenating spa and spectacular sunsets.
DAY 3: After descending the Armentarola piste dwarfed by the sheer Fanes Mountains frosted with icy waterfalls, we lined up behind a horse-drawn carriage and were pulled to the Badia Valley and the Alta Badia ski area. Here, we enjoyed aperitivi at a slopeside wine cellar and took in the view from the mountaintop chef ’s table at Ütia Bioch mountain hut, before enjoying fresh pasta at Las Vegas Lodge. We ended at Ciasa Salares, a food-and-wine-focused Alpine lodge outside of San Cassiano, where cheese and chocolate are like a religion.
DAY 2: We spent the day spring skiing at Cortina, tracing famous World Cup runs and trying a blend of Italian and Tyrolean cuisine—think spaghetti carbonara with fried apple pancakes for dessert—on the mountain at Ristorante Col Drusciè 1778. Our guide, Marika, was a former member of the Italian Women’s Ski Team with an intrepid and infectious spirit. After assuring us that our bags would be transported for us, she led us—on skis—from Cortina to Cinque Torri, where we would
DAY 4: On the slopes of Val Gardena, we encountered rock castles, World Cup start gates and delicious pizzas at Rifugio Friedrich August as we made our way around the sprawling and varied peaks. The journey and the afternoon ended with a stroll through the postcard-perfect town of Ortisei, home to Gardena Grödnerhof Hotel and its three-story, 20,000-square-foot spa—where we spent our last luxurious night reliving the high points of the experience.
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I N S I D E R
PERFECT DAY IN: WILLIAMSBURG, BROOKLYN Indagare’s Trey Ross shares the best places to eat, drink, shop and explore in her favorite neighborhood in New York City’s liveliest borough.
MORNING RITUALS
Start the day with a coffee and guava croissant from Devoción, conveniently located near Domino Park for a morning stroll along the East River waterfront with epic city views. Extra points if you’re able to secure a coveted reformer at East River Pilates beforehand. For a more relaxed breakfast, pop into 12 Chairs—order the soft scramble with smoked salmon on challah, or hummus and fresh pita.
AFTERNOON DELIGHTS
For the in-laws, a chic family member or a colleague you need to impress, go for brunch at Michelin-starred Meadowsweet. For large groups, Radegast Hall & Biergarten serves large beers and even larger brats and pretzels (during Oktoberfest reservations are a must and the band is very fun). There is always a last-minute party in Brooklyn. For the best stock-up, take a quick walk north into Greenpoint for Big Night—maximalists and foodies alike will love the selection of caviar, bespoke potato chips, funky oyster plates, and unique bar cart mixers. Pick up precious treasures at Scosha, where the designs include delicate charms, semiprecious
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stones and bright beaded and string bracelets. Beam is the spot for mid-century furniture; Casa Ziki, for extraordinary accents—especially the Harrison Scott Furby sculptures. Salt Lizard NYC has sourced the most stunning antiques (if you love it, buy it). If all the shopping has you famished, grab a quick bite from Court Street Grocers or the award-winning Birria-Landia food truck. Both are near Rocka Rolla—ask for the coffee drink, they’ll know what you mean.
IN THE EVENING
Everyone cannot stop talking about Laser Wolf—make sure at least one person at the table orders the cauliflower main and chicken wings to share (with an extensive cocktail and wine list, gorgeous Manhattan views and free dessert, make a night of it). Other neighborhood highlights: Ume (wear appropriate footwear and socks to take your shoes off at the door), Kings Co. Imperial (book the back garden), Le Crocodile in the Williamsburg Hotel (the French onion soup is phenomenal) and any of Missy Robbins’s Italian empire— Lilia, Misi and the new Misipasta. For late-night martinis: Deux Chats or Hotel Delmano. For late-night piña coladas: The Commodore or Café Balearica. For Saturday Night Fever, without a trip to Bay Ridge: the light-up dance floor at Ciao Ciao Disco, a time machine to the golden years of discotheques. For anyone who says that you can’t stargaze in New York City, let the Financial District office lights across the river be your artificial stars from a rooftop patio.
FOR PIZZA LOVERS
Whether you’re looking for gourmet pies or a cheap midnight slice, Willliamsburg is a pizza lover’s paradise. Go early to L’Industrie (the line is always long), for the margherita with burrata, fig jam with bacon or hot honey variants—if you’re lucky, you’ll snag an outdoor table. Other spots not to miss are Rosa’s Pizza (the vodka slice!) and Williamsburg Pizza (the grandma slice!).
OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PHOTO BY TEDDY WOLFF, COURTESY BIG NIGHT; PHOTO BY LIZ CLAYMAN, COURTESY DEVOCIÓN; PHOTO BY MICHAEL PERSICO, COURTESY LASER WOLF; PHOTO BY TEDDY WOLFF, COURTESY L’INDUSTRIE
IF THERE IS A CURE FOR BOREDOM, it’s Brooklyn. Brooklyn is a place to nest for both the early birds and the night owls, where you don’t need a passport to dine on cuisine from every corner of the globe and creativity practically pours out of the cracks in the concrete. And Williamsburg is virtually skyscraper-less and walking is the best mode of transportation for enjoying the thriving street art scene or finding your new favorite hole-in-the-wall. With luxury hotels popping up along the East River waterfront and highly anticipated restaurant openings, Williamsburg is also poised to be SoHo’s little sister (Hermès and Chanel have arrived to ritzy North Sixth Street, along with Sugarfish and Jack’s Wife Freda on Wythe). We can no longer call Williamsburg up-and-coming… because it’s already here.
A Devoción classic. Clockwise from below: Bar seating at Laser Wolf; slices at L’Industrie; shopping at Big Night.
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A R T
F I L E
MAASTRICHT MAGNIFICENCE
Melissa Biggs Bradley on what to know about TEFAF, the design world’s finest fair.
Founded as a nonprofit in 1988 by a small group of dealers in Old Masters and antiques, TEFAF is known as the place where museums go to shop. It earned this moniker because it has the highest concentration of the world’s top dealers, and every item exhibited is vetted by a committee of curators and experts, so provenance and authenticity are never in doubt. Dealers, who tend to be obsessive treasure hunters—à la academic or aesthetic Indiana Joneses—save their rarest finds to display here. Museum curators and private collectors come to snap them up, yes, but also to see these most sought-after pieces and learn how they were procured, because they know that after appearing at TEFAF, many spectacular objects may disappear from view for years, once they go into museum storerooms or cloistered private homes.
FOR ART AND ANTIQUES LOVERS, The European Fine Art Foundation—better known as TEFAF—is as mind-blowing and mandatory an experience as Burning Man is for West Coast tech groupies. Featuring over 270 dealers annually, the event takes place each March in the Netherlands city of Maastricht, in the southeastern corner of the country near the German and Belgian borders. “It’s like the Metropolitan Museum of Art, plus the Rijksmuseum—but everything has a price tag,” says Mitchell Owens, the American editor of The World of Interiors, who cohosted a special-access Indagare Journeys trip to the fair with me this past spring. For a few days, not only do the world’s most important collectors, dealers and curators gather in the small Dutch city to meet with potential buyers, but they also share their latest, most exciting fine art and antiques discoveries with each other, in a state of harmony and collegial camaraderie that is hard to imagine until you have experienced it. It’s this connoisseur-to-connoisseur mingling that gives TEFAF such a sense of community, as well as an air of exclusivity— to the point that those who have not been before can feel too intimidated to consider attending. However, as I discovered on our Indagare Journeys trip, a true passion for the arts and insider know-how are the keys to access.
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It’s a jolly fair,” explains art editor Mitchell Owens. “Yes, it’s a very serious fair, but there is a sweet spot between distinguished and delight.”
“TEFAF really sets the standard in the industry and for every visitor,” says sixth-generation Parisian antiques dealer Laura Kugel, a fair board member. “It is a place where you can discover amazing things that really open your mind.”
To inquire about an Indagare Journey to Maastricht in 2025, email insiderjourneys@indagare.com. To learn more about the fair, listen to Episode 20 of Melissa’s SiriusXM podcast Passport to Everywhere, available to stream on indagare.com.
Photo by Jacques Tillmanns; Fergus McGaffrey (420), TEFAF Maastricht 2023. Photo: Jitske Nap. Courtesy of TEFAFand photo by Jacques Tillmanns.
Melissa’s Insider Picks: When to Go: TEFAF 2024 runs from March 9 to14, but during the two preview days (reserved for VIP collectors) there are fewer crowds—and that’s when some of the choice acquisitions take place. Where to Stay: Château St. Gerlach, a lovely Relais & Châteaux property outside of town, and Derlon, in town, are booked a year in advance. Our Insider Journey group stayed at the lovely La Butte aux Bois, which has a Michelin-starred restaurant and Shiseido spa. Indagare can assist with bookings, but a four-to-five-night minimum stay is required.
The Fergus McGaffrey Gallery at TEFAF Maastricht 2023. Below: One of the impressive displays at TEFAF 2023. Opposite: Melissa Biggs Bradley and co-host Mitchell Owens in Maastricht.
Fair Strategy: Spend time with the dealers who proudly display their wares and impart their expertise. There are almost 300 booths spread across 150,000 square feet, so map out your areas of interest—jewelry, antique silver, Chinese porcelain or mid-century furniture—and visit them on the first day; then wander and discover other dealers on the second. Dress Code: The VIP cocktail is no longer black tie, but fairgoers tend to be serious collectors whose style could be described as stealth-wealth-traditional: Chanel suits on women, and jackets and ties for men. Beyond TEFAF: Maastricht musts include the Basilica of St. Servatius and the new Maastricht Museum. Further afield, Aachen Cathedral in western Germany holds the treasures of Charlemagne; and Antwerp is now a must-visit for Axel Vervoordt’s Kanaal (a mini “city” for design, outside Antwerp) and the newly renovated Royal Museum of Fine Arts, aka KMSKA, in Antwerp’s Het Zuid district. 35
F I R S T
LO O K
UPON ARRIVAL: BOSTON Indagare’s Annie Fitzsimmons shares her latest intel on the newly reopened Four Seasons Boston—plus an insider’s favorites: what to see, where to eat, shop, stroll and more.
The property is opulent but soulful, with Boston Public Garden views; sophisticated but playful, with “vaults” on every floor stocked with free snacks like M&M’s, Swedish Fish, bags of nuts, plus drinks. Upon arrival in the lobby, a hand-painted mural depicts the public garden with willow and oak trees—one special swan holds a key. My four-year-old daughter was then handed a key to the mystery closet behind the front desk where she could (gleefully) choose from a veritable treasure chest of toys and books. There is a state-of-the-art gym and a long eighth-floor indoor swimming pool that overlooks the garden; Coterie is an excellent brasserie serving New England classics like crab cakes and clam chowder. But Sottovento just might be my favorite place, a gourmet coffee shop equal to the city’s best (though this is Boston and Dunkin’ Donuts reigns supreme). Start each morning with complimentary barista-made drinks like delicious cappuccinos and iced coffees—or order it from the Four Seasons app for delivery. I immediately trusted guest experience manager Jeanne Lynch, who grew up in Boston and directed me to spots she knew I would love. Below, some of her favorites close to the hotel.
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CAFFEINATE
“I like The Thinking Cup on Newbury Street—a little café with great pastries.”
BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH
“The Friendly Toast serves breakfast until 4:00 p.m. and is really fun but also perfect for people with dietary restrictions—they have gluten-free pancakes and French toast. Tatte has great shakshouka and breakfast bowls, with nice outdoor seating.”
PERFECT LUNCH
“On Newbury Street, there are beautiful little patios for people-watching. My favorite is Saltie Girl for hot or cold lobster rolls. You can reserve.”
SHOP
“Head to Charles Street for the best boutiques. Upstairs Downstairs has antiques where every piece tells a story; Beacon Hill Bookshop features a lot of local authors with a coffee shop and restaurant downstairs.”
RESTORE
“The other Four Seasons in Boston [at One Dalton Street] has an incredible spa. Near us, CorePower Yoga is one block away; SoulCycle a few blocks. Or a beautiful walk across the street in Boston Common.”
CULTURE MOMENT
“Boston’s culture is so diverse. The North End is a fantastic blend and feels European—sometimes you feel like you’re in Italy. There’s a mix of authentic food and historical buildings, like The Paul Revere House amid the restaurants
The lobby at the Four Seasons Hotel Boston leads to a complimentary barista-led coffee bar around the corner.
COURTESY FOUR SEASONS HOTEL BOSTON
AT THE FOUR SEASONS HOTEL Boston, which reopened this year after an extensive design update by AD100 designer Ken Fulk, there is a full-time Director of Creative dreaming up magical moments for guests and fostering a spirit of generosity that I rarely see at hotels—it is now one of my favorite urban retreats in the U.S.
Upon arrival in the lobby, a handpainted mural depicts the public garden with willow and oak trees— one special swan holds a key.”
and shops. People line up every day for hours for The Daily Catch and Giacomo’s, but my favorite is Trattoria Il Panino.”
THE BEST TOUR
“As a context refresher, I recommend the Freedom Trail tour with one of our favorite guides. You can start at the hotel and weave through the Common, over to the historical points and end in Charlestown at the U.S.S. Constitution.”
IMBIBE
“The Franklin in the South End is a hidden gem where you won’t find many tourists. It’s where a lot of bartenders go. They have
Negronis on draft and a full menu until 1:00 a.m. Anchovies is a total Italian dive bar— think chicken parm and a Miller High Life.”
DATE NIGHT
“I love Grill 23 & Bar, a seven- or eight-minute walk from here, for their frosted martinis and classic steak house vibes.”
OUTSIDE CENTRAL BOSTON
“Harvard Square has its charms; Kendall Square, where MIT is, has an interesting mix of architectural styles with the classic brick of Cambridge alongside buildings that have an engineering influence—they kind of look like robots.”
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W H AT
TO
W E A R
W H E R E
WINTER IN STYLE
This season, these are the destinations on our radar for a glamorous getaway, whether you’re seeking culture, snow or a sunny escape. We’ve curated the best fashion edits for each with our partners at Mytheresa, the finest edit in luxury, so you can arrive in style. By Elizabeth Harvey
CULTURE HOT SPOT: NEW YORK CITY, USA
A suite at the Fifth Avenue Hotel
Clockwise from top left: Loewe mohair and wool scarf, Tod’s patent leather loafers, Totême wool-blend sweater, Chloé suede and leather tote. Available at mytheresa.com.
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PHOTO BY DOUGLAS FRIEDMAN, COURTESY OF THE FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL; ALL CLOTHING IMAGERY COURTESY MYTHERESA.COM
Ice-skating in Central Park, sparkling window displays along Fifth Avenue and Prince Street, hot chocolate at the Plaza and martinis at Bemelmans, The Nutcracker at City Ballet and opera nights at the Met…. There’s a certain magic to New York City during the holidays that you can’t find anywhere else. This year, we’re eager to see what festive fêtes will be on at the new Fifth Avenue Hotel, on 28th Street and features fashionable food and beverage outlets from Andrew Carmellini.
FUN IN THE SUN: RIVIERA MAYA, MEXICO Next to the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, the 680acre Kanai community is a pristine, private escape on the white sands of the Riviera Maya. The new St. Regis Kanai Resort offers contemporary design in harmony with the natural surroundings (the ocean-facing property is also suspended over a mangrove forest, to minimize its impact on the land), as well as a signature restaurant by chef Richard Sandoval—and a speakeasy. Nearby, stylish travelers will also love the Auberge Resorts Collection’s Etéreo, which is as breezy and beautiful as its name implies (with a fantastic spa rooted in Mayan traditions and experiences like swimming with whale sharks)—as well as a brand-new Edition property.
Toro Terrace at St. Regis Kanai Resort Riviera Maya. Clockwise from right: Etro silk kaftan, Celine sunglasses, Melissa Obadash swimsuit. Available at mytheresa.com.
SKI & SPA: CORTINA D’AMPEZZO, ITALY
PHOTOS COURTESY THE ST. REGIS KANAI RESORT, RIVIERA MAYA, MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL; (TOP RIGHT); BY HELENIO BARBETTA (BOTTOM LEFT)
Clockwise from above: The spa at Hotel de Len; Loro Piana shearling tote bag, Inuikii ankle boots, Totême shearling jacket. Available at mytheresa.com.
An enclave of perfectly powdered pistes, classic Italian glamour and international celebrity (once beloved by the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Audrey Hepburn and Frank Sinatra), Cortina is poised to be back in the Alpine spotlight as it prepares to host the Winter Olympics in 2026 (see page 28 for more ski news). Expect a slew of new hotel openings leading up to the games—beginning with the gorgeous sustainabilityand wellness-focused Hotel de Len, which opened last year, and a grand renovation of the historic Hotel Cristallo, which will reopen in 2025 as a Mandarin Oriental resort.
GET THE PERK Mytheresa x Indagare Indagare members have exclusive complimentary access to Mytheresa’s Personal Shopping service for individual styling and packing edits, making traveling in style easy. Scan the QR code (right) to shop the looks in this article and more. To get connected with a stylist, just email: myindagare@mytheresa.com to get started. 39
S T Y L E
F I L E
LA MODA ITALIA
Trey Ross talks design secrets with Lady Olga Polizzi, the visionary behind some of our favorite hotels in Italy and beyond.
How does the location of your hotels inspire your design choices? “The location and the look of the building are of utmost importance. A resort by the sea—people go on holiday, and it’s more relaxed.... And, every city calls out for its own design. If it’s Berlin, it’s harder, younger, more vibrant. If it’s Rome, it’s a grand lady, and it has to be quite serious and very Italian... We’re doing Milan with Paolo Moschino again (we did Villa Igiea with him and that’s been a great success). It was beautiful to start with, but it had really gone to rack and ruin... now it feels as if it’s what it should be—rather romantic, just a very beautiful design. We put back a lot of what should have been there... and it looks as if we’ve done nothing. In fact, we’ve done the hotel from top to bottom.” For the Milan opening, is there a particular design element that you’re especially excited about? “We’ve got an interesting building. On one side, the main entrance is on Via Senato, which is quite a bustling street, but we’ve got a garden backing onto it. On the other side it’s Via de la Spiga, which is the best shopping street in Milan....We took out some of the
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floor from the first floor, so we’ve got a double height now in the entrance with huge columns and a reception desk in between—and that immediately gives a sense of grandeur. We’ve got a living wall behind glass that goes on to a new bar area. We’ve put a taller glass roof—and that’s like an inside-outside space. Then we’ve majored on the garden with a lot of trellising and an outside bar and seating area. So the ground floor will be quite buzzy and exciting, and people will see each other. We’ve tried to make it as Milanese as possible. It’s very different from Rome and Florence. Florence is sort of the pretty younger sister. It’s more flirty, more fun probably. Milan is quite serious, and Rome is somewhere in between.” What’s the special sauce in mastering how it feels when you walk into a Rocco Forte property? “Well, if I’m doing the job, I always mix. Italy is known for its modern contemporary designs—I love buying old pieces and adding them in. Very few big companies do that. But I love mixing—whether it’s a tapestry or a table for the entrance.... For rooms in Rome I’m buying old wooden-framed sofas in England. We re-upholster them in contemporary fabrics. It just gives rooms another look.” Any tips for making a space feel truly your own? “It is better to overscale. Even if you’ve got a small room, it’s nice to have one big piece. Otherwise, the room looks smaller. And have one expensive piece—whether it’s a lovely mirror, a really nice picture, a beautiful sofa. Then even if the rest of your furniture is not expensive, the room looks good. And be bold with color. I’ve got bolder as I’ve got older. Halls can be a strong dark color because you’re walking through them. It’s quite nice to have an impact when you walk in. Then maybe a softer, calmer color where you are sitting all day. Don’t skimp on curtains. With a chair it’s fun to do a plain color on the back and a pattern color down the middle. Maybe add a painted shade on one of the lamps.... A little bit of fun in the room captures the eyes and gives people a bit of interest.”
Clockwise from above: A suite with a terrace at Hotel de la Ville in Rome; Villa Corallo at Rocco Forte Private Villas, Verdura Resort in Sicily; Popolo Suite terrace at Hotel de Russie in Rome; Lady Olga Polizzi.
COURTESY ROCCO FORTE HOTELS; LADY OLGA POLIZZI HEADSHOT PHOTO BY JULIAN BROAD, COURTESY ROCCO FORTE HOTELS
ANYONE WHO HAS STEPPED foot in a Rocco Forte Hotel knows it’s special. Each has its own distinct sense of place—and the style and design convey an elegant, abundantly comfortable atmosphere. And it’s all thanks to Lady Olga Polizzi, Deputy Chairman and Director of Design at Rocco Forte Hotels. Having learned the hospitality ropes from her father Lord Forte, Lady Olga and her brother Sir Rocco create properties that are the destination. These include Brown’s in London, Hotel de Russie and Hotel de la Ville in Rome, Hotel Savoy in Florence and Villa Igiea in Sicily, among others, as well as the highly anticipated openings of The Carlton (Milan) and Liscia di Vacca (Sardinia). Here, Lady Olga shares design inspirations, how to make a space your own and more.
Two for the Road TOP SHOPS IN ROME AND FLORENCE: “The best Max Mara is in Florence. And I love necklaces. So Angela Caputi does all these marvelous plastic necklaces—but it’s really fun. And I always come back with three of those if I go to Florence. Angela Caputi is now also in Rome, which is rather a pity because you have to go to Florence to find her. And she’s a woman of a certain age. She only has women working for her. I love her as a person—and I must have 50 or 60 of her necklaces. I’m always buying them when I go.” FAVORITE DRINKS: “I love an Aperol spritz. I also love a Campari soda like my father did. And a Negroni.”
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An aerial view of Eden Rock St. Barths, where there’s no “offseason” anymore.
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The Birth of
All-Season COURTESY EDEN ROCK ST. BARTHS
Travel
Across Europe, Africa and the Caribbean, the concept of “low season” is vanishing. Mark Ellwood looks at what it means for travelers. Plus: Our favorite places for all-season trips. 43
C
ALL THEM THE DOUBLE-DIPPERS. Lake Como–based hotelier Valentina de Santis has seen a surprising shift in travel at her new property, Passalacqua, the year-old sibling to her family’s long-standing landmark, Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Valentina opened the second hotel expressly to operate differently from the seasonal rhythms that have dominated the area. “That was the initial idea, to make it an almost year-round property,” she recalls, noting that it was more than just a chance to increase profits. Extended contracts would allow her to hire better, more local staff, for example. “And it’s about being able to distribute guests over a wider period, because of overcrowding. It’s a win-win.” Sure enough, when she welcomed guests for the first time in June last year and then stayed open through the festive period, there was strong demand throughout. More intriguingly, though, the guests who filled the rooms in shoulder or low season had a consistent profile: they were likelier to be returnees rather than one-timers, with prior guests seizing the chance to go back to their favorite spot and experience it in another way—perhaps for truffle season. One loyalist returned three times after a longer summer stay before the end of 2022, while another, a chic Milanese guest, took up residence for almost three weeks over Christmas; a single woman, she wanted to be somewhere different for the holidays, close to friends with villas in the lakes. “It’s more common during the winter to have guests who’ve already been to Lake Como than to have first-timers—you need a level of sophistication to find the beauty there in winter.” The shift de Santis has seen in stays is reflected across the world, as the classic division between peak, low and shoulder season becomes increasingly blurred. Indagare’s own data shows an uptick in travel during fall 2022 to Europe versus the same period three years earlier: 14 percent of the year’s travelers came in September, up from 11 percent. Booking volumes during shoulder season to the Italian Lakes are Clockwise from top: © Ruben Ortiz, courtesy Signature Pictures; Colin Heinrich, courtesy Indagare; courtesy Santorini Sky; courtesy Matetsi.
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Clockwise from top left: A view of Lake Como at Passalacqua; cheetahs at Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe; getting lost in the warren of calli in Venice; bed with a view at Santorini Sky; the mighty Victoria Falls on the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe.
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Airlines are operating differently, too. The legacy carriers have seen a shift in demand (and profits), with the ability to operate seasonal routes to Europe for a couple of extra months—see United’s Mallorca service, which ends later in 2023 than it did during its debut year of 2022, for example. They’re also ramping up service in the traditional low season to the southern hemisphere; new routes from Delta and co. to New Zealand are emblematic. The Caribbean has traditionally been a region with drastic differences between its peaks and lows. “But there is no offseason anymore,” shrugs Fabrice Moizan, the longtime GM of the Eden Rock in St. Barth’s. He has seen the same shift as de Santis reports as well as the emergence of a new class of double-dippers. Occupancy is up: rates in his low season— the summer—typically hovered around 65 to 70 percent pre-pandemic, while this summer, it was 90 percent. “Most of the additional occupancy is from existing clients who came during the winter but had never experienced it during the summer,” he adds, with summertime trips often shorter, perhaps an impromptu long weekend. It’s much easier to be spontaneous then, of course: yachts are easier to charter for the day, and restaurant reservations less fraught than over the festive period. “The vibe, the ambience, though, it’s still very entertaining.” The Grand Hotel Minerva in Florence has seen the same pattern in its guests, per owner Sara Maestrelli, citing one regular who came for several weeks in July this year with her extended family; by September, she returned with her husband for a romantic getaway, a last-minute, double-dipping booking. Maestrelli is prepping to open another hotel in her collection later this year, the Violino d’Oro in Venice, which will be expressly marketed as an offseason choice. Its website will feature a
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dedicated section for low-season travel, dubbed Underwater Love; she notes that the issues around flooding in winter— acqua alta, as the locals call it—which often deterred luxury visitors, have been largely resolved since the installation of the MOSE dam in 2020. “Venice is at its most authentic in November or January, the exact same atmosphere that’s described in so many novels,” Maestrelli adds. It’s seasoned safari-goers who are helping to fill rooms in what was previously low or green season at Matetsi in Zimbabwe, too, at least per Sara Gardiner who owns the resort. More agents have asked her about the green season, so they can better discuss the idea with their clients. “These are people looking for an atypical safari experience,” she says of her double-dippers. “They might want to see the tiny baby animals that appear with the first rains. And in our area, we see more leopard activity in the green season—they walk in the roads to keep out of the wet grass.” In the Greek Islands, there’s been a similar change, at least when resorts are able to operate beyond their traditional parameters. Daniel Kerzner’s plans for his Santorini Sky resort, which opened in summer 2020, included the aim of operating year-round, except for a brief break between Christmas and New Year’s. The villas are winterized, and private pools are heated; he even invested in Starlink Internet, to offset the fact that bandwidth is throttled to the islands in November or so once the tourists depart. “Sitting in a 95-degree Jacuzzi in the snow on a mountain in Santorini in the winter? That experience is as incredible as any sunset in Oia,” Kerzner says.
Indagare Trip Designers are noticing shifts in tripplanning requests because of changing weather patterns, from heat waves in the Mediterranean to ski seasons that start many weeks late—or never.”
Why, then, has the new trend emerged? Overtourism, of course, is one reason for changing travel patterns, an issue that’s particularly acute in locations like where Kerzner operates: guests might come in the summer to hole up and decompress, then decide to return off-season to explore at leisure without risk of crowds and congestion. Much of the island might be shuttered, of course, but there’s also a keener sense of real life, a chance to spend time with locals rather than fellow tourists. Valentina de Santis echoes that idea: almost half her guests in summer are American, but that drops to around one-third
OPPOSITE: COURTESY SANTORINI SKY
growing twice as fast as during peak season, per data from Leading Hotels of the World, while the Balearics in Spain are shifting away from the summer to the spring and fall—bookings for shoulder season have grown 40 percent year on year, and over 150 percent versus the same time in 2019.
The colors and views at Santorini Sky are pure Greece.
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Venice is at its most authentic in November or January, the exact same atmosphere that’s described in so many novels.”
off-season, with many more Italians—an added appeal in itself. Both Santorini Sky and Passalacqua, of course, hire staffers for a full year, which means even the workers are more likely to have local know-how.
Daniel Kerzner says the pandemic-induced sense of carpe diem around travel persists, too—a focus on the why not? rather than the why? “A reason to come trumps the calendar or seasonality now—if you have a special birthday in February, and have always wanted to go to Santorini, you’ll book then. If I look at my bookings for next February, it’s weddings, anniversaries, birthdays, so many different reasons for people traveling.” Anyone nervous about risking a trip outside the seasons when conditions are supposed to be more reliable can even opt for new insurance offered by the four-year-old Californian start-up Sensible Weather: sign up for one of its policies and there’s an automatic payout if your vacation’s wrecked by bad weather.
Eden Rock occupies the best perch on St. Barth’s. Top: Passalacqua’s now-iconic open-top Fiat 500.
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Wintry storms in Lake Como won’t matter to guests at Passalacqua this year. Following the success of its first extended season last year, de Santis is shuttering earlier in 2023, but for good reason. She’s decided to shutter a little earlier to add a long-planned amenity to the property that’s aimed at helping her remain open for all but six weeks or so every year: an indoor pool. It’s the perfect place for that double dip.
© RUBEN ORTIZ, COURTESY SIGNATURE PICTURES; COURTESY OETKER COLLECTION.
Even the wealthiest are noticing the uptick in rates in the pandemic’s wake—luxury hotels are more than 50 percent more expensive per night than they were at comparable dates four years ago. So, the fact that rates at five-star properties are 30 to 40 percent cheaper than at peak is an added incentive for a bonus trip. Crucially, though, shoulder or low season rates at high-end properties remain pricey enough to retain an appeal to the same clientele. “It’s not people who have never been to a five-star hotel, splurging,” says de Santis. “That’s key for a hotel: to have the same kind of clients all the time.”
5 (More) to Know: All-Season Favorites Schloss Elmau | Germany (outside Munich) With its proud, green-tipped tower rising from the forests and meadows that give way to the crags of the Bavarian Alps, Schloss Elmau is a castle-like retreat that invites visitors to indulge in both nature and culture. •Why We Love It for All Seasons: Complete with a long list of outdoor activities, from hiking to snowshoeing, this varied and interesting location has something for all activity levels and all seasons. Elmau is known for its incredible wellness facilities, with six separate spas and pools for adults and families, an ideal solution for those rare rainy days where you just want to stay put.•Who Should Stay: Families, spa goers and active types.
Awasi Patagonia | Chile (Chilean Patagonia) Set on a private reserve on the edge of Torres del Paine National Park, this Nordic-style lodge is made up of 14 bungalows-on-stilts, each of which comes with a private guide and a 4x4 vehicle. •Why We Love It for All Seasons: Excursions in Patagonia—whether horseback riding or trekking—are always weather-dependent, but every season showcases a fresh side of the destination: fiery fall colors from March to May; ice and glaciers, June to August; wildflowers and wildlife, September to November; and long warm days ideal for hiking and water activities, December to February. •Who Should Stay: Couples and families with children over 10.
The Brando | Tahiti (Tetiaroa Private Island)
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY SCHLOSS ELMAU; COURTESY AWASI PATAGONIA; COURTESY RANCH AT ROCK CREEK; COURTESY LA MAMOUNIA; COURTESY THE BRANDO.
This eco-luxury private island resort sits on an atoll in French Polynesia and has 36 accommodations, including villas and a residence, all surrounded by abundant flora and fauna. •Why We Love It for All Seasons: A trip to the Brando is both an escape from the real world and an escape from the seasons. Here, guests reap the benefits of the vibrant nature and sustainability programming year-round: snorkeling in the coral garden, visiting a bird sanctuary or shark nursery, experiencing Polynesian culture or languishing at the spa (all of which are only a taste of the offerings).•Who Should Stay: Couples, families and groups of friends.
Ranch at Rock Creek | U.S. (Philipsburg, Montana) Surrounded by 6,600 acres of flowering hills, snow-peaked mountains and pine forests, Ranch at Rock Creek is a Wild West fantasy made real, complete with a saloon and 70-horse herd. •Why We Love It for All Seasons: While warmer months mean archery, horseback riding, hiking and fly-fishing at one of the best trout runs in the U.S., the winter season here ushers in days of horse-drawn sleigh rides, snowmobiling and skiing. And for those days when the weather doesn’t cooperate, there’s an indoor bowling alley and movie theater. •Who Should Stay: Anyone who loves the American West and outdoor adventure.
La Mamounia | Morocco (Marrakech) Set inside Marrakech’s medina and surrounded by gardens, olive trees and orange groves, La Mamounia is a positively royal escape, with opulent interiors and intricate architecture. •Why We Love It for All Seasons: Marrakech is always a marvel—even in the winter when highs hover around 70 degrees and lows around 45—and La Mamounia’s sprawling grounds, expansive spa and pool areas, tennis courts and exceedingly comfortable accommodations make for an ideal base from which to explore the city’s mosques, souks, monuments and gardens. •Who Should Stay: Romance seekers, families and anyone who appreciates a larger-than-life, full-service, luxury hotel.
For more inspiration on where to go for all seasons, visit indagare.com. 49
As the City of Light readies for its newest close-up for the 2024 Summer Olympic Games next year, Lanie Goodman takes a look at the splashiest new outposts, and a few old favorites.
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FROM LEFT: PHOTO BY ADRIEN OUZOUF, COURTESY BLOOM HOUSE; SYDNEY LAPIN
Bloom House. Opposite: A view of the Panthéon from Luxembourg Gardens.
PARIS
NEVERENDING
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N THE BANKS OF THE SEINE down by the water there is no city life at all,” expatriate American writer Gertrude Stein once observed in her book Paris France. “The quays in Paris have never changed.”
Stein could not have predicted what the quays of Paris have evolved to become—an urban playground and a setting for romantic Seine-side walks, to start. But new and exciting changes are underway. Next summer’s highly awaited Olympic Games, last hosted in Paris a century ago, will transform the atmosphere on the riverside stone walkways yet again into an open-air pandemonium of cheering spectators when competing triathalon and open water swimmers dive into the bacteria-free Seine near the Pont Alexandre III. That’s right. The heavyweight sustainability efforts toward staging a green-friendly event include an army of hydrologists and a purge of impurities at a water treatment plant—costing $1.5 billion—to make the river so clear you can drink it. As Paris shifts into high gear to prepare for 18 days of citywide sports events (expect more than 10,000 athletes and crowds of 600,000 attendees), the transformation conjures a giant playground—beach volleyball set up behind the Eiffel Tower, horseback riding in Versailles—plus newly added competitions for breakdancing, rock climbing and skateboarding. But why wait? The Château de Versailles is already hosting a spectacular lineup of dance, classical concerts and operas. And you have until the end of January to see some spectacular art shows: at the Musée de Luxembourg, “Gertrude Stein and Pablo Picasso—the Invention of Language” focuses on their friendship and how Cubism and other avant-garde movements later paved the way for experimental minimalism. At the Musée d’Art Moderne, abstract forms, pure colors and light prevail at the dazzling exhibition of postwar pieces by the Russian-born painter Nicolas de Staël, featuring over 200 rarely shown works (through January 21, 2024). And for the latest look in city-proud fashion, head to the Louis Vuitton flagship on Place Vendôme and discover its new collection of trompe l’oeil bags that celebrate iconic streets and monuments. Call it a ripple effect. Along with the growing excitement and the massive urban spruce-up, Paris is suddenly awash with innovative new luxe hotels that reflect the current global-embracing mood. These days, hotels are collaborating with international designers and chefs; trends include a craze for color-drenched fanciful rooms and lush garden
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The Marcel Proust room at Maison Proust in the Marais. Clockwise from right: Place des Vosges; Hôtel de la Boétie, near the Champs-Élysées in the 8th arrondissement; cucumber with violet and white tuna at two-Michelin-starred Espadon at Ritz Paris; Bloom House Lobby Bar in the 10th.
Clockwise from top left: Photo by Benjamin Rosemberg, courtesy Maison Proust; Sydney Lapin; courtesy Hôtel de la Boétie, © Simon Brown; courtesy Ritz Paris, © Emanuela Cino; courtesy Bloom House, photo by Adrien Ozouf.
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Inside Boubalé at Le Grand Mazarin in the Marais, left. Opposite: A view from the Arc de Triomphe.
after the Yiddish term of endearment), headed by Israeli Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit, was a nostalgic transformation of my grandmother’s cuisine; the menu features a tasty version of classic Ashkenazi dishes: chopped liver with caramelized onion, brisket with latkes, “Like a Jewish Wedding” cheese potato pie and creamy cheesecake topped with figs. At La Fantaisie, on a lively backstreet near Faubourg-Montmartre, you’ll find Brudnizki’s same predilection for color and whimsy (the 71 rooms are a medley of coral, green and rose; ceramic lamps are adorned with frogs and birds), but the spirit is floral-meets-vegetal. Along with the garden rooftop and inner dining patio is The Golden Poppy, helmed by Michelin three-starred French chef Dominique Crenn, whose California-inspired zero-waste cuisine includes unusual dishes like pancakes with banana and caviar.
Add to that the city’s ongoing tradition of outstanding hospitality. The elegant Parisian classics—such as Le Bristol, La Réserve, Cheval Blanc and Hôtel de Crillon—continue to shine, while hideaways like the Jacques Garcia–designed Maison Proust (opened this past January) in the Marais reinvent fin de siècle glamour with 23 lavishly furnished rooms, each named after a member of writer Marcel Proust’s high-society circle of artistic friends. A highlight: the dreamy Moroccan-tiled heated pool and period piece salon and bar. British designer Martin Brudnizki is having a moment this fall with two simultaneous hotel openings. Le Grand Mazarin, also in the Marais, near Paris’s old Jewish quarter, turned out to be my personal favorite for the playful mix of bold hues (think a purple-uniformed young staff ), velvety 1950s retro furnishings, tapestry-draped canopy beds and lobster-patterned carpets and closets, plus a vaulted ceiling pool with Jacques Merle–designed frescoes. And opening soon is an über-hip basement cabaret bar with live DJ sets. Equally impressive, its adjacent restaurant Boubalé (named
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On the Right Bank, near the Champs-Élysées, comes another surge of innovations. Hôtel de la Boétie, from the Touriste hotel group (of which Les Deux Gares in the 10th arrondissement is also a part), is the modern 40-room brainchild of London-based Swedish designer Beata Heuman, whose fanciful creations such as handwoven tapestry headboards, playful club chairs and satiny flamingo rose sheets match the unpretentious vibe. Housed in a 19th-century mansion steps away from Hermès, Gucci and Cartier, the Maison Delano mixes quiet grandeur with international swank—a subtle tribute to Miami’s Art Deco Delano South Beach Hotel, combined with an openair Andalusian restaurant, La Chambre Bleue, helmed by supernova chef Dani Garcia. Nearby, the Château des Fleurs has been revamped into a neo–Art Nouveau boutique hotel by Barcelona-based architects Quintana Partners (Murano glass chandeliers, tall bow windows and brick-redtiled bathrooms) and a boudoir-style cozy restaurant, OMA, serving flavorful Korean dishes by chef Ji-Hye Park. Further afield near the Gare de l’Est, Bloom House is a 91-room urban oasis offering affordable stylish rooms—some with views of Sacré-Coeur—and a leafy garden bistro with
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: VINCENT LEROUX; SYDNEY LAPIN
patio restaurants or green rooftop bars. Well-being is also key—spas have enchanting pools and an accent on sustainable French brands like Diptyque, Holidermie and Odacité.
I wondered if I would ever stop missing Paris, if I could ever stop aching for its smells, and states, and splendors. Perhaps this was the great first love of my life: not a man—but France, real France—la France profonde—not the fairyland of ancient aristocracy I imagined as a child, but a flawed and beautiful place that I had discovered for myself. I never did stop missing it.” —ANN MAH
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Clockwise from top left: Bouquinistes along the Seine; Ashkenazi cuisine at Boubalé. Opposite, from top: At Maison Proust. La Madeleine cocktail; the spa pool; a detail in the Paul-César Helleu suite.
In case you’re wondering: there’s never any ending to Paris restaurants, to riff on Ernest Hemingway’s oft-quoted finale in A Moveable Feast. The Ritz Paris has a new alluring eatery, Espadon, headed by Eugénie Béziat, whose creations combine delicate exotic flavors from Africa and the Mediterranean. For your big night out, nothing beats a romantic dinner at just-reopened legendary landmark La Tour d’Argent (built in 1890), not only for the dazzling transformation of the nowsleek décor, but for the obvious draw—wine, food and service are all as good as it gets. Michelin-star chef Yannick Franques’s masterful interpretation of this gastronomic haunt’s most revered dishes includes the ultimate classics—order the duck and you’ll get an illustrated card at the end of a meal
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indicating the number of canards they have served—mine was number 1,178,149. There’s also a luxe private apartment below the restaurant for the happy few; the new rooftop bar, open to all, has a sweeping panoramic vista of the Seine that is priceless. From there, along with the monuments, you’ll also see cranes, a sign of rebirth. The Notre-Dame Cathedral, devastated by fire, slowly being rebuilt; more than ever, Paris is on the move and leaving no stone unturned.
LET’S DESIGN YOUR PARIS ITINERARY Whether it’s your first or 15th trip to the City of Light, our team can elevate your trip with insider picks and access. Call us at 212-988-2611 or visit indagare. com/go to plan the perfect escape for you.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SYDNEY LAPIN; VINCENT LEROUX
tasty original cuisine by Top Chef celebrity Olivier Streiff. And the list goes on. After the beguiling Hôtel Dame des Arts opened this past January (check out the rooftop bar), the effervescent Left Bank openings continue with the arty, 34-room Villa-des-Prés, designed like a chic Rive Gauche private apartment, with a spa and pool.
Favorite Finds: Colin Field The former head bartender at Bar Hemingway at the Ritz Paris is charting a new course after nearly 30 years at the hotel. Catch him at the new Maison Proust hotel in January, as guest bartender on Friday nights. “My dream, ever since I was a teenager, was to work as a bartender at the Ritz,” says British-born bartender extraordinaire Colin Field. “I came to Paris in 1981 and sold my bicycle for 80 pounds—enough to spend six days in a very small hotel and find a job.” Still, at 18, the Ritz told him that he needed more experience. Soon after a stint at FERRANDI Paris, a century-old hospitality school, Field shot to the top of the trade, and no wonder. He is elegant and eloquent, a natural for flowing conversation. Now—after nearly 30 years as head bartender at the Ritz Paris’s Bar Hemingway, where he served his extravagantly original cocktails and chatted with countless celebrities and heads of state—Field is exploring other directions with his own consultancy firm. Here are his favorite spots in the City of Light.
LA CLOSERIE DES LILAS “Besides very nice cocktails, I like that if the bartender is talking to you, it’s because he wants to, not because some boss said he should. The head bartender, Yves Esposito, has been there for more than 30 years.”
LE BASILIC “It’s a lovely little local bar and restaurant on a beautiful square in the seventh arrondissement, next to l’Assemblée Nationale. The food is very good and there’s an interesting clientele. I like to go on Sundays to sit back and watch what’s happening.”
FROM TOP: PHOTOS BY BENJAMIN ROSEMBERG, COURTESY MAISON PROUST
HUGO DESNOYER “This place is actually a butcher shop but you can eat at the chef’s table, with only about six seats. You don’t know the other people, which is fun. Desnoyer brings out a big bone, cooked in his own way, along with potatoes and vegetables, and a nice glass of wine. Then he starts bringing out pieces of meat that you haven’t even asked for and says ‘try this’ and ‘try that.’”
LE MOULIN ROUGE “When I was younger in Paris, my life was intertwined with the dancing world. Le Moulin Rouge still puts on a great show today. The French Cancan is very similar to flamenco—it builds up, then gets faster and faster until the dance takes over.”
PALAIS GALLIERA “I love this fashion museum and the history of each period, particularly the nineties with Alexander McQueen. At a recent show, I discovered these incredible glasses etched with white windows by designer Jonathan Hansen from his ‘In the Clouds’ collection, which I’m now using for my own events.”
GALÉRIE-MUSÉE BACCARAT “I love working with Baccarat glasses and their Cristal Room is really ‘wow.’ I go there often to find inspiration.”
MAISON SOUQUET “I love the neighborhood [Montmartre] and the Art Deco meets Orient Express décor. I’ll be working with the same owners at Maison Proust in January, as guest bartender on Friday nights. It’s a new Belle Epoque-style boutique hotel designed by Jacques Garcia that is a beautiful step back in time and a perfect meeting place.”
LE BON MARCHÉ RIVE GAUCHE “There’s nowhere like the La Grande Épicérie de Paris inside Le Bon Marché department store. It’s the only place where I can get a load of sweets in various colors, different marshmallows, pink meringues and the best maple syrup for Canadian whiskey cocktails. And I occasionally buy very expensive suits in the men’s department.” —Interviewed by Lanie Goodman
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TOP CHEF, HAWAII EDITION
BRENDAN M. SMITH, COURTESY TIFFANY’S; OPPOSITE: JESSICA SAMPLE.
Meet the chefs who are reimagining Hawaii’s dynamic food scene after last summer’s devastating Maui fires. Jen Murphy reports on how they’re drawing inspiration from local heritage—and preserving traditions and flavors for future generations.
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Big Beach Makena. Opposite: Sheldon Simeon’s Garlic Mochiko chicken at Tiffany’s in Wailuku on Maui.
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Clockwise from top left: Keaka Lee’s I Love You a Laksa Risotto at Kapa Hale, Honolulu; chef-owner Robynne Maii of Fête in Honolulu; surf’s up on Maui’s Big Beach; chef-owner Jason Peel and his wife and pastry chef Beverly Luk of Nami Kaze Hawaii in Honolulu; Kauai Ama Ebi Duo (Tempura & Ceviche) at Na‘au; Janice Simeon at Tiffany’s.
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F YOU THINK HAWAIIAN FOOD means pupu platters and poke bowls, you’re in for a surprise. The fact that 11 James Beard Award finalists were from Hawaii this year is a testament to the creativity and talent of Hawaii’s restaurants. Honolulu’s food scene rivals those of cities like San Francisco or Boston, and across the islands you’ll find chefs returning to their roots and dreaming up mind-blowing menus.
Big Island BRIAN HIRATA OF NA‘AU | HILO “Food is more than sustenance,” says chef Brian Hirata. “It connects us to the land—and tells us where we come from.” A fourth-generation Hawaiian, Hirata grew up in Oahu but spent much of his childhood hunting, fishing and foraging with his cousins on Hawaii Island. Ingredients like limukohu, a red seaweed, and opihi, a limpet found on rocky shorelines, were staples of family meals. While teaching culinary classes, he was shocked to learn most students hadn’t tasted, let alone heard of, many of the foods he grew up eating. In 2019, he started Na‘au, a pop-up devoted to preserving native foodways. Hirata’s dream is to have his own restaurant. For now, his reservation-only dining experiences are hosted at local farms. Seven- to 10-course dinners marry European cooking techniques with wild ingredients. Many dishes are rooted in memories: Hawaii’s Rainforest incorporates hō‘i‘o and hāpu‘u, native ferns he foraged for with his grandparents near their farm. His riff on PB&J is regional sweet bread stuffed with burnt miso chicken-liver pâté and a jam made from akala, an endemic fruit similar in flavor to raspberry. His menus are more than just a celebration of local ingredients. “Food can help us tackle food security, revitalizing cultural knowledge and sustainable practices,” says the James Beard Award semifinalist. “Cooking can be a vehicle for educating and improving the community.”
Oahu ANDREW LE OF THE PIG & THE LADY | HONOLULU Hawaiian-born chef Andrew Le’s earliest food memories involve the aromas of pungent fish sauce and fragrant pho broth wafting from his childhood kitchen. His parents were Vietnam War refugees and through food, his mother, Loan Le, connected her children to their heritage. Her recipes Courtesy Kapa Hale; courtesy Sean Marrs; Simone Girner, courtesy Indagare; courtesy Nami Kaze Hawaii; courtesy Na‘uu; Brendan M. Smith, courtesy Tiffany’s.
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Hiking above the beach in Poi‘pu on Kauai’s south shore. Left: Stopping for a snapshot on the road to Hana, Maui.
KEAKA LEE OF KAPA HALE | HONOLULU When deciding on a name for his first restaurant, Keaka Lee kept returning to the Hawaiian art of making kapa (bark cloth), and how different colors and patterns tell a story. Every plate is like a blank piece of kapa—ingredients woven into a meaningful tale. The Honolulu-born chef worked his way up from fast-food kitchens to Michelin-star restaurants, including Benu in San Francisco and Gramercy Tavern in New York, before joining the all-star team at the Pig & the Lady. Despite opening mid-pandemic in 2020 at an address
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known for doomed restaurants behind Kāhala Mall, Lee’s debut solo venture was an instant hit. Kapa Hale has become a James Beard Award–nominated destination dining spot known for wildly inventive dishes showcasing local ingredients and Hawaii’s melting pot of Pacific and Asian influences. Menus highlight area purveyors and producers like Parker Ranch (don’t miss the grass-fed burger topped with anchovy garlic aioli) and Small Kine Farms (their portobellos are on the sensational ’shroom melt topped with a sunny-side egg). Global flavors also appear in dishes like I Love You a Laksa Risotto, a Malaysian coconut curry spiked with clams and Kauai shrimp, and Where’s da Beef?, a homemade tagliatelle pasta mixed with cauliflower Bolognese. It’s a truly original twist on Hawaiian regional comfort food. JASON PEEL OF NAMI KAZE HAWAII | HONOLULU Shrimp and waffles, lobster with silky egg custard—outrageous combinations? All it takes is one bite to trust that chef Jason Peel is a culinary genius. “Creating is my passion, but so is breaking the rules a little,” says the Kauai native. “There are no boundaries. That’s why I love cooking.” Peel trained under some of Honolulu’s biggest chefs, including Roy Yamaguchi, and curated talent for the Hawaii Food & Wine Festival. His knowledge of Hawaiian producers and growers combined with his exposure to international talent and technique primed him to open Nami Kaze Hawaii, in 2022. Within one year, the always changing, izakaya-inspired dishes—like Vietnamese spice-braised short ribs with green bean relish and ahi loco moco (a traditional breakfast staple) topped with sous vide eggs and a savory dashi sauce—have earned Peel accolades from the James Beard Foundation and Eater.
PHPOTOS (LEFT): BY JESSICA SAMPLE; (RIGHT): NATALIE BIEDRON, COURTESY INDAGARE.
inspired Andrew to launch a tasting-menu pop-up in 2011. This first iteration of the Pig & the Lady evolved into a farmers market booth where Andrew and his mother sold updated takes on traditional dishes, like a Pho French Dip banh mi stuffed with 12-hour roast brisket, Thai basil chimichurri, and sautéed bean sprouts and topped with a pho jus. But the mother and son butted heads on how much liberty he was taking with her recipes. Andrew took a job at San Francisco’s Rich Table and returned home to restart his pop-up dinners. People went nuts for his crazy flavor combinations like spiced lemongrass Bolognese. In 2013, the family reunited to help Andrew open a brick-and-mortar version of the Pig & the Lady in Chinatown. Older brother Alex Le came on as general manager, and Mama Le (aka the lady) helps oversee the classic dishes still sold at the farmers market. Her home cooking forms the soul of the Pig & the Lady’s menu, but Andrew has made the recipes his own with French techniques and local ingredients. While he’s racked up numerous James Beard nominations, more satisfying is knowing some of Hawaii’s most game-changing chefs have cut their teeth in his kitchen.
Pastry chef Beverly Luk is the sweet yin to Peel’s savory yang (she’s also his wife). Save room for her desserts, like a decadent brownie drizzled with caramel laced with gochujang, a Korean pepper paste with just the right bit of heat. ROBYNNE MAII OF FÊTE | HONOLULU Anyone who lives in Honolulu has most likely dined at Fête. Chef-owner Robynne Maii opened the brick-and-reclaimed-wood space in 2016. In the heart of Chinatown, the restaurant’s cool urban farmhouse vibe and seasonal, farmto-table ethos earned a loyal following. “We cook things that we crave and remain faithful to classic flavor pairings and classical cuisine,” says Maii. “If a dish calls for kumquats, we wouldn’t bring them to Hawai‘i. We’d use calamansi instead. Similar to how immigrants approach cooking when moving to a new country. We adapt.” Maii’s exceptional cooking and devotion to local sourcing (90 percent of the restaurant’s produce, and 95 percent of its meat and dairy, come from Hawaii) earned her national recognition in 2022 when she became the first female chef from Hawaii to win a James Beard Award. Reservations are now a must if you want to experience Fête’s raved-about coconut Kauai prawns and Korean bavette steak.
COURTESY LEE ANNE WONG
Maui SHELDON SIMEON OF TIN ROOF | KAHULUI & TIFFANY’S | WAILUKU The fan favorite of Top Chef seasons 10 and 14, Sheldon Simeon could be helming a high-profile restaurant at one of Maui’s luxury resorts. But the humble, Hilo-born chef prefers to cook deceptively simple food in unassuming locations. Tin Roof, the lunch-counter joint he opened in 2016 near the Kahului Airport, almost always has a line out the door. Rice and noodle bowls riff on Hawaii’s classic plate lunch (meat, two scoops of rice and macaroni salad) and feature rich proteins like flat iron steak wok-fried with garlic and scallions or deep-fried pork belly. Last year, he and his wife Janice took over Tiffany’s, a beloved, no-frills sports bar in Wailuku. The menu highlights “true Hawaii classics” and continues Simeon’s mission to promote the diversity of “Hawaii cuisine.” A third-generation Filipino-American, Simeon preaches the distinction between Hawaiian and Hawaii food: the latter reflects immigrant influences of Japanese, Filipino, Chinese and other migrants who now call Hawaii home. It’s comfort food and pub fare, with dishes such as “sticky icky” chicken wings lathered in sweet Thai chili caramel and house fried rice with eggs, bacon and Spam. And Simeon has maintained some of the original menu items, like the crispy fried shrimp with toasted walnuts and candy-sweet mayo. Hefty portions and shareable plates make the experience feel like the potluck meals of Simeon’s childhood.
MAUI STAR:
Lee Anne Wong CHEF AND JAMES BEARD AWARD FINALIST
The fires that swept across west Maui this summer destroyed hundreds of homes and businesses, including Papa ‘aina, a new restaurant helmed by Lee Anne Wong. A 2023 James Beard Award finalist, Wong recently kicked off the Love for Lahaina pop-up series hosted by the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea with a menu of Papa’aina favorites like guava barbecue chicken with miso slaw. The resort will host a benefit dinner by Maui-based chefs every Sunday through year’s end and all proceeds will benefit local chefs and farmers. Wong says the best way to help the island is to visit areas of Maui that weren’t impacted by the fires. “The island is on an economic cliff,” she says. “Small businesses rely on visitors.” She encourages travelers to shop at farmers markets and to dine out to help Maui. To learn more about how you can help, go to hawaiicommunityfoundation.org and chefhui.com/maui-relief. LEE ANNE’S MAUI PICKS: Marlow, Pukalani:
“Husband-and-wife-owned spot known for wood-fired sourdough pizza.” Umi Maui, Wailuku:
“Casual, chef-run spot with pristine sushi.” A Saigon Café, Wailuku:
“Excellent Vietnamese food.” Havens, Kihei and Kahului:
“Chef-owner Zach Sato’s smash burgers have a cult following..” The Upcountry Farmers Market, Kula:
“The season’s best produce, plus tasty food stalls.” Lineage, Wailea:
“Filipino and Hawaiian flavors—and great cocktails.”
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Guatemala felt like a parallel world, terra incognita where time stood still and where one could easily get lost and no one would ever find you… a land of ancient men and smoking volcanoes where the patina of its turbulent history exuded a particular aroma a little like jungle mulch after rainfall.” —JOHN EDWARD HEATON (PHOTOGRAPHER AND ADVENTURER)
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Mayan Mysteries Majestic Mayan monuments, ancient temples hidden amid rainforests, smoking volcanoes and indigenous traditions: In Guatemala, finds Melissa Biggs Bradley, traces of the past are ever-present.
Antigua Ascending With new hotels, restaurants and art galleries, the Spanish colonial gem of a city, Antigua, is renowned for its climate and its vibrant colors, which dominate its historical facades and ubiquitous textiles. Above: the outdoor bar area at Villa Bokéh, the city’s most charming boutique hotel. Left: A vendor displaying textiles in the city’s main square.
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Layers of History
Q
UITE APART FROM THE country’s intrinsic cultural attributes and stunning beauty, it was its off-the-grid quality that greatly appealed to me. It was raw, mysterious and alluring while detached from worldly norms: a vibrant ethnographic paradise, with an edge,” wrote photographer and adventurer John Edward Heaton of his first visit to Guatemala. “Each land marks you with its first impression; Guatemala felt like a parallel world, terra incognita where time stood still and where one could easily get lost and no one would ever find you… a land of ancient men and smoking volcanoes where the patina of its turbulent history exuded a particular aroma a little like jungle mulch after rainfall.” Since that first visit, in 1978, John has made the country his part-time home for decades, and more recently he described his love affair with the country as having enabled him to see “a very ancient, important indigenous culture stumble and struggle at the doorstep of the 21st century.”
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It was hearing the descriptions of John and other lovers of Guatemala that lodged a longing within me to visit. When I finally arrived last winter in Antigua and then traveled up to Lake Atitlán for one of our Indagare Journeys small group trips, I was not disappointed. As I had hoped, the country remains a vibrant mash-up of eras, cultures and topographies woven together into something that stands apart from the other countries of Central America. About the size of Tennessee, it is a land of volcanoes, rainforests and beautiful lakes as well as beaches on the Pacific and Caribbean coasts. It is home to Tikal, one of the greatest (if not the greatest) of the Mayan monuments, and while many aspects of this ancient culture remain a mystery, its people continue to thrive throughout the country. Mayans of all ages proudly don their regional weavings, and it’s possible to take part in rituals so ancient that they are etched in hieroglyphs on the thousand-year-old temples buried in its jungles. “There are remote parts of Asia where you might be as immersed in a world that is still as entrenched in its ancient ways,” explains entrepreneur Mitchell Denburg, “but they
ALL PHOTOS THIS PAGE & OPPOSITE, COURTEYS MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY
Traces of Spanish colonial influence in architecture and art mix everywhere with the strong Mayan culture.
Antigua Treasures Ringed by volcanoes, Antigua has suffered numerous earthquakes, but many of its baroque buildings survive; its Museum of Colonial Arts occupies the former University of San Carlos, which features beautiful cloisters.
A Twist on Tradition Textile treasure hunting is best done at outdoor markets, including at Chichicastenango, held on Thursdays and Saturdays.
Fair Trade Coffee plantations thrive around Antigua and fair trade coffee cooperatives supply many of the new coffee bars in the city.
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are much harder to reach.” Denburg fell in love with the country on a transcontinental motorcycle trek in the 1970s. He stayed and established a thriving business manufacturing custom carpets for the world’s top decorators in a factory in Antigua. At dinner on my first night, he spoke as casually about working with celebrated talents like Peter Marino and the late Mark Hampton as he did about helicoptering to visit a shaman for a “smoke reading.” Ancient practices mingle with modern realities in a mystical way here. The beautiful villa that Denburg and his late wife built in gardens on the edge of Antigua has been turned into a sophisticated small hotel. Villa Bokéh’s opening promises a new level of comfort for curious travelers, and perhaps a new wave of visitors. But roads remain rough across the country, and America’s complicated history with the country has left an enduring perception of danger. Guided by locals and longtime inhabitants like Heaton and Denburg, our group felt not just safe, but that we were treated to that special frisson of being let in on a traveler’s secret, of visiting a place steeped in beauty and unique history before word gets out. For more on our next Indagare Journey to Guatemala, see opposite page.
Of Artisans and Shamans
Staying in Style One of the 15 rooms at Villa Bokéh, the former home of textile entrepreneur Mitchell Denburg, which is now Antigua’s top boutique hotel.
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BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY VILLA BOKEH; TOP & BOTTOM RIGHT: COURTESY MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY.
Travelers can discover a new generation of artists and artisans who have opened ateliers and boutiques in Antigua (top: products at Luna Zorra), but can also connect with shaman who are continuing the practices of their ancestors like the women (above) who welcomed us into their home for lunch before offering a special smoke reading and blessing.
TOP LEFT: COURTESY VILLA BOKEH; BOTTOM LEFT & RIGHT: COURTESY MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY.
Join Us: Indagare Journey to Guatemala Explore Guatemala through our immersion in local heritage and culture—from the cobblestoned streets and artisan shops of Antigua, to the expanses of Lake Atitlán and the majestic ridges of the Fuego (fire) and Agua (water) volcanoes. Connect with local artisans and designers. embark on hikes, learn about ancient and indigenous traditions, boat to magical villages like Santa Catarina Palopó and relax at the Indagare-adored retreats Villa Bokéh and Casa Palopó. Go to indagare.com/journeys for more details FEBRUARY 25-MARCH 2, 2024 | 7 DAYS | 6 NIGHTS
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It’s a Shore Thing
Relaxing at COMO Parrot Cay. Opposite: Long Bay Villa at Beach Enclave.
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OPPOSITE: COURTESY COMO PARROT CAY; THIS PAGE: COURTESY BEACH ENCLAVE.
Gorgeous island beach in under four hours (direct flight only)? Annie Fitzsimmons looks for answers in Turks & Caicos.
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HERE ARE TRAVELERS who veer into the obsessive when it comes to planning, and this is where I unapologetically live, with color-coded maps and documents culled from years of research. Suffice it to say, I am on the fast track upon arrival, with a plan in place. But the last fast-track moment you’ll want to have on Turks & Caicos is at the airport, where expedited service through passport control is an absolute must—you will (a bit too smugly) zoom past the long immigration line, which was three hours long when I arrived. The concept of island time—when everything slows down to the speed of lapping waters and one hour is indiscernible from the next—is not new. Here, it’s not just the island time, but also the multiple daily inbound flights and copious resort options for the luxury traveler that has helped it evolve into one of the top places to fly and flop over the last two decades. “When you come to Turks, it very often looks like: you get in, you sit at the beach, you eat conch and then you leave. And while Grace Bay is one of the most famous beaches in the world, it won’t register on the top 10 for most Turks,” says journalist Chadner Navarro, who has been to the islands three times this year. Whether it’s a famous beach or a secret spot reachable only by boat, it quickly becomes clear that everything is about the water for a nation comprising 40 islands and cays—the hidden coves, beaches, views and water sports. While it may not rank as the highest for the locals, the white-sand Grace Bay is consistently voted one of the top beaches in the world; it has a long barrier reef located a mile offshore that protects it
INDAGARE TIP: Providenciales airport is undergoing much-needed renovation and is currently under construction. The lounge, which must be booked before departure, leaves a lot to be desired at $87.50 per person—there were two buckets to catch dripping rain through the ceiling when I was there. It’s a glorified waiting room—but the only place where the WiFi worked for me at the airport.
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An aerial view of COMO Parrot Cay. Clockwise from top right: The iconic open-pavilion architecture at Amanyara; delicious seafood, including Caribbean lobster, is served across the islands; Technicolor views from one of the Beach Enclave villas.
If you’re staying at a villa, be sure to order in from Crest & Berry, located in Grace Bay. There is a delicious menu of acai bowls, smoothies and cold-pressed juices for those looking for an energizing pick-me-up.—ANNIE FITZSIMMONS
Clockwise from top left: Courtesy COMO Parrot Cay; courtesy Amanyara; courtesy COMO Parrot Cay; courtesy Beach Enclave.
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Sailing towards the white-sand beach at Amanyara.
from the Atlantic’s mighty swells. (Yes, the islands are actually technically located in the Atlantic but firmly in the mindset, vibe and look of the searingly blue, bathwater Caribbean we all know.) The hardest choices become where to stay and how to see and experience the water. We outline some updates and reviews of our favorite luxury options.
BEACH ENCLAVE
To start a stay at any Beach Enclave location, guests receive a two-minute welcome video from their butler–a small but rarely seen touch. All luxury resorts promise personalized service, but Beach Enclave manages to go above and beyond—and could even be considered as a more affordable villa option alongside our other Caribbean favorites. The hotel concept was dreamed up by Vasco Borges (see Q&A) as a gathering place for friends and family to be together in paradise while still having the amenities of gyms, chefs and
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all of the services in stunning beachfront accommodations. There are three Beach Enclave locations—Long Bay, Grace Bay and North Shore—and each one has several villas, all with direct beach access and a private pool deck and amenities like a gym with yoga deck. Villas all come with a dedicated butler and range in size from two to seven bedrooms, each with its own en suite bathroom. They have kayaks and paddleboards on each property’s private beach, and the concierge team can assist with any other arrangements. Good to know: The villas are virtually the same at each location and the main differences are in the beach choices. At Long Bay, you’re essentially at sea level so you can walk right out to the sand, while at Grace Bay and North Shore, you’re perched a bit higher up, so you walk down some private stairs to get there. For this reason, families with younger kids may prefer Long Bay, but otherwise the vibe of the villas feels similar.
THE SHORE CLUB
The Shore Club’s executive penthouse suite is the one of the best on the island, with beautiful views of Long Bay. The penthouse’s floor-to-ceiling windows open onto two massive terraces, one that seems to cantilever over the sea and another that boasts an elevated hot tub. The property houses two beachfront towers and large villas that have an elegance that would feel right at home in Beverly Hills. Rooms are light-filled and airy, with a color palette of white, sea green, coral and baby blue. The signature restaurant, Sui-Ren, is a highlight, serving Peruvian and Japanese cuisine in a stylish alfresco setting.
COMO PARROT CAY
“The villas and beach houses are my favorite accommodations in the Atlantic/Caribbean,” Indagare COO Eliza Harris says. “They are located right on the beach with sugar-white sand and aqua-blue water, with great swimming. They offer an incredible sense of privacy, seclusion and natural beauty. And the setup is simultaneously impeccably elegant and
barefoot-chic, with hardwood floors, white furniture, high ceilings and so much light and space.” To many, this property, part of Singapore-based hotel company COMO, epitomizes what drew people to Turks and Caicos in the first place. It has attracted a loyal following of high-profile guests since opening in 1998. There’s not much to do on Parrot Cay—and that’s the point. Guests, a stylish mix of couples and families (all with very well-behaved children), lounge by the cobalt-blue infinity pool, at the beach or on the covered double daybeds built into the vegetation overlooking the beach. It’s all about pampering, wellness and—to a large extent—staying put. The outstanding COMO Shambhala spa is so popular with guests that you’re encouraged to book treatments well in advance of arrival.
AMANYARA
“One of my favorite moments of the trip was shelling at sunset and daybreak along the tranquil beaches of Amanyara,” says Indagare’s vice president of sales, Elise Bronzo. “We were blown away by the beautiful rock formations and were transported back to childhood, sifting through the sand for sand dollars, conches and other treasures.” After her visit, Creative Director Simone Girner wrote in our review that “Amanyara can feel like a dream, which is, of course, part of the genius of the brand, which has made an art of the fusion of haute
Insider Spotlight: Lizzie Foster
OPPOSITE: CCOURTESY AMANYARA; THIS PAGE: ROMELLO WILLIAMS.
Yoga and meditation teacher Lizzie Foster moved to Turks & Caicos with her family from Jamaica when she was 12. “Back then, it was dusty roads and a smattering of hotels, but it has developed into quite the destination,” she says. Foster uses breath, movement, presence, awareness and conversation to “help people return to a state of inner balance, wellness and vitality.” What is your favorite thing to do in Turks & Caicos? “If I had to narrow it down I’d say, immerse yourselves in our pristine waters. I love anything to do with being in, on or around the water. Swimming, snorkeling, paddleboarding and boating. Take your pick! Our waters and the teeming aquatic life are the islands’ most precious treasure.” Favorite cocktail “I love going for sunset drinks at the recently opened Rock House. The rocky shoreline and slight elevation create a very special sense of space and are an incredible vantage to take in the beautiful surroundings.”
Favorite indulgence “I adore Coyaba. However, I’m somewhat biased as it’s my parents’ restaurant, but the food is outstanding. If you care to indulge, you have to try the apple pie dessert.” An off-the-beaten-path experience “I love heading to the outer islands because it’s like going back in time–whether that is Grand Turk, South Caicos or my favorite for a day trip, Middle Caicos. The views from Middle Caicos’s Mudjin Harbor, with its dramatic coastline of rolling cliffs, are breathtaking. Frolicking in the waves or wading over to Dragon Cay is always a surefire reset for my soul.” 75
Insider Spotlight: Vasco Borges Vasco Borges came to Turks & Caicos to stay for three months. Twenty years later, he is heading up an expanding property portfolio (while raising his children here), including Beach Enclave, where they are adding more villas, sports amenities like pickleball, a kids’ club at the Grace Bay location in the winter—and enjoying newer highlights like a Mediterranean-style beach club at Long Bay.
From top: Vasco Borges is the mastermind behind Beach Enclave, comprising beachfront villas (middle) and breezy cottages (bottom).
For me, I wanted to build my dream product—an enriching place that feels like I am home with lots of friends and family but combining it with hotel amenities, very personalized but discreet. The butler is more of a house or family manager, a focal point for your stay that serves drinks, yes, but manages the overall experience for you. It worked out because it was at the right time with the trend of multigenerational families and groups of friends wanting to stay in villas. And one thing that is very important to me and I’d say reflects sustainability also—how much of the staff is actually from the destination? All our concierge and resort manag-
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ers are local and have been here forever.” Do you have a favorite activity for visitors? “Go to the water, that’s what’s magical here. It has a different feel and it’s just good for you. Go on a boat, go kiteboarding, go snorkeling, go kayaking. Go horseback riding on the beach, go swim with the whales a mile from the shore. When guests book, we give them a credit on water activities—100 percent of our guests get out there. There are also fantastic spas at The Palms, Seven Stars and Parrot Cay.” Can you talk about a few of your favorite restaurants? “For lunch, I love Omar’s Beach Shack for toes in the sand, lobster and fish. Da Conch Shack has live music on Wednesday evenings— and you’re going to dance, I guarantee it. For fine dining, I love Coco Bistro and Caicos Cafe.” What’s always in your carry-on? “Muji has a really comfortable sleeping mask that I love and I always bring multivitamins from Life Extension.”
FROM TOP: COURTESY BEACH ENCLAVE. OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: COURTESY COMO PARROT CAY; JEN BARR, COURTESY INDAGARE.
How have you seen Turks & Caicos evolve? “There was nothing really here 20 and 30 years ago—no service culture or tourism. But with the beautiful beaches and quick flight from New York, it was discovered. It’s no longer just about Grace Bay beach—we have Long Bay with amazing kiteboarding and the Bluff Bar at North Shore. The barefoot luxury experience has remained.
I absolutely loved Da Conch Shack, the iconic beach restaurant with live music on certain days of the week and some of the best food–carefully and locally sourced–that I had on the island. Think hot wings, conch fritters, fish tacos, curries, rum cake and more. Pick up a couple bottles of the local hot sauce, PeppaJoy, for some heat at home.”—ANNIE FITZSIMMONS
From top: Walking home after a day at the beach at COMO Parrot Cay; leaving Pine Cay.
design, a laissez-faire ambience and the illusion of a totally responsibility-free vacation.”
PINE CAY
“The reason to come is the spectacular two-mile white-sand beach and the low-key, get-away-from-it-all vibe of this privately owned 800-acre isle,” says Indagare’s Senior Content & Brand Strategy Director Jen Barr. “Situated amid a string of small cays between Providenciales and North Caicos along the world’s third-largest barrier reef, Pine Cay was once a private club; it’s now part of Relais & Châteaux and got a recent refresh, room and spa upgrades, elevated food, a new GM and genuine service. The two freestanding cottages away from the pool and dining area are the place to be. (There are also nine island homes for rent, if you’re looking to be on your own.) While it still feels like the Caribbean of 25 years ago, that seems precisely the point. And unless you’re there during holidays, when the owners return, you will have the glorious beach and much of this rustic island mostly to yourself.”
LET US DESIGN YOUR TRIP Inspired to travel to the Turks & Caicos? Call us at 212-988-2611 or visit indagare.com/go to plan the perfect escape for you.
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2024
JOIN US ON AN INDAGARE JOURNEY We couldn’t be more excited to share our newest Indagare Journeys for 2024—our largest roster of trips ever. Our passion-forward small-group journeys are envisioned by the Indagare team and our extensive global network of experts with your interests in mind. Pursue personal passions in the company of like-minded travelers from the Indagare community and experience our premier selection of exceptional destinations the Indagare way. On our Insider Journeys, expert hosts, including our founder Melissa Biggs Bradley, bring destinations to life through their knowledge, access and expertise. Many of our dynamic itineraries can also be privatized for small groups or families. See the newest additions to our upcoming calendar and meet some of our 2024 Journeys hosts. Browse the full selection of all our latest Journeys at indagare.com/indagare journeys. Access all our new and available itineraries using the QR code on page 80.
• 50+ TRIPS • 7 CONTINENTS • 40 COUNTRIES (AND COUNTING) Photos (top): courtesy COMO Hotels & Resorts; (middle left): courtesy Aman; (top)
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2024 Calendar Highlights WINTER Exploring the Philippines with Melissa Biggs Bradley Our inaugural exploration of this Southeast Asian island nation combines entrée into Manila’s design and cultural circles with a spectacular retreat amid the island archipelago. Design & Adventure | January 28 - February 4, 2024 Magic of Bhutan: Paro, Punakha & Gangtey This 10-night, four-stop itinerary celebrates the beauty and mystery of one of the most captivating destinations in the world. History & Culture | February 19 - 29, 2024 Cambodia Temples & Khmer Culture Archaeological masterpieces, astounding temples and more: Cambodia is matchless in its cultural legacy and its complex and compelling history. History & Culture | January 31 - February 8, 2024 Return to Japan Indagare heads back to Tokyo and Kyoto, opening doors to showcase the country’s landmarks, art, food, culture and more. Design & Adventure | March 2024
SPRING
“The Naples area had the densest concentration of Roman towns and villas on the Italian peninsula, and now has the best preserved Roman remains in the world. It’s a must.”
Naples & Its Lost Cities with Jamie Sewell — JAMIE SEWELL, ART HISTORIAN & ARCHAEOLOGIST, HOST OF NAPLES Historian and archaeologist Jamie Sewell leads our first-ever journey to Italy’s most unsung and underappreciated city. History & Culture | April 2 - 7, 2024 French History & Literature Author Mary Morris and garden expert Amy Kupec Larue introduce guests to literary and cultural landmarks in Paris, followed by time LEA R N MOR E A N D BOOK NOW: INDAGA R E .COM /INSIDER JOU R N EYS
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2024
SCAN THE QR CODE TO SEE ALL OUR INDAGARE JOURNEYS 2024.
at an extraordinary château hotel, the Domaine des Etangs (pictured above). History & Literature | April 14 - 20, 2024
“This will be a thrilling immersion transporting us back to the times of the Tudors, Stuarts, Georgians, Victorians and Windsors! I’m excited to walk in the footsteps of the unique women of each period and experience the worlds that they created through their patronage.”
London with Page Knox Explore the artistic legacy created by aristocratic women throughout British history, with visits to museums and historic residences. History & Culture | May 6-11, 2024
—PAGE KNOX, HOST OF OUR PARIS AND LONDON JOURNEYS
Other Favorite 2024 Journeys
Mallorca by Design This dynamic immersion with Architectural Digest into the design and art of Spain’s most stylish island during the Xtant Roots Festival makes a perfect spring break. Design | May 8-13, 2024 Finding Your Flow in Baja On this special retreat in Baja, examine new ways of navigating midlife with the extraordinary team at Chip Conley’s Modern Elder Academy. Wellness | November 3 - 9, 2024
Mii amo with Elizabeth Lesser (January 21-25); Tangier with Melissa Biggs Bradley (May 19-24); India with Fiona Caulfield (February 26 - March 5). Kilimanjaro (September 25 - October 3). Plus: Camino de Santiago, Patagonia, Marrakech, Colombia, Faroe Islands, Zimbabwe, Tanzania, Egypt with Egyptologist Stephen Harvey and more. 80 I N D A G A R E . C O M
THIS PAGE: FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: PHOTO BY SERGE DETALLE, COURTESY AUBERGE RESORTS; COURTESY PAGE KNOX OPPOSITE: COURTESY INDAGARE; BACK COVER: PHOTO BY DIANA LI, COURTESY INDAGARE
Paris with Page Knox Visit some of Paris’s best- and least-known museums with acclaimed art historian Page Knox. History & Culture | May 1 - 4, 2024
indagare safari
Indagare Safari is dedicated to perfecting our members’ safari experience from the initial destination and itinerary matchmaking to suggesting the ultimate legacy and purpose of the trip—whether it’s your first safari or your 10th (believe us, we know exploring in the wild is addictive). Our safaris are 100 percent carbon neutral and through the Indagare Impact Fund, we fund the Zimbabwe Long Shield Lion Guardians’ community and conservation projects. CONTACT INDAGARE FOR MORE SAFARI INSPIRATION: 212-988-2166; MEMBERSHIP@INDAGARE.COM
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WHAT WILL YOUR NEXT JOURNEY WITH INDAGARE BE? indagare.com | @indagaretravel | #howyoutravelmatters 82 I N D A G A R E . C O M
ELISE BRONZO
“A person susceptible to ‘wanderlust’ is not so much addicted to movement as committed to transformation.” —Pico Iyer