Indagare Magazine Summer 2023

Flockhill Lodge

Valley | New Zealand

of Islands | New Zealand

Bay

Craigieburn

In this issue, clockwise from left: Writer Jessica Nabongo in Ghana (page 30); J.J. Martin’s Taormina shop (page 13); scallops at The Quinte Oyster Bar in Charleston (page 28); terrace with a view at Borgo Santandrea (page 6). On the cover: Mallorca views from the garden at the Frédéric Chopin and George Sand Museum in Valldemossa, near Deià, photographed by Jessica Sample. Back cover: Castle Hill Inn, Newport.

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We can plan trips to any of the destinations in this issue. Visit indagare.com/go to get started.

FEATURES

38-45

MALLORCA, SPAIN Another Side of Paradise

46-55

TOKYO & KYOTO, JAPAN The Spaces Between

56-61

NEWPORT, RHODE ISLAND A New Gilded Age

62-69

FLORENCE, ITALY Ever Fashionable, Florence

70-77

NEW ZEALAND The Call of The Wild

Clockwise from above: Milford Sound in New Zealand (page 70); Grand Hotel Son Net, Mallorca (page 38); at Japan’s Park Hyatt Kyoto (page 46).

THE WAY OF THE TRAVELER

In the midst of walking for 10 to 20 miles a day on the Camino de Santiago, my friend, the author Elizabeth Lesser, declared “I feel like I could walk forever,” just when I’d been feeling the same. “I feel like I am walking with my heart,” she said. “Not my feet.” I knew what she meant because I, too, was floating along the trail, feeling as if we were woven into the fabric of nature and of the universe, of all the pilgrims who had come before us.

Walking the Camino has become a holy grail of travel, a mythic goal, a pilgrim’s journey primed for epiphanies—and a trip fraught with expectations. It is literally the trail of Saint James’s bones, and it comes with its own passport, a Credencial del Pelegrino booklet to collect stamps at churches, bars, hotels, police checkpoints; my favorite was from a bagpipe player with a white beard and Birkenstocks, selling scallop shells in the woods.

Just before our first Indagare Camino Insider Journey this spring, I interviewed the actor (Pretty in Pink and St. Elmo’s Fire) and travel writer Andrew McCarthy for my podcast Passport to Everywhere . His newest book, Walking with Sam, is about traveling the Camino with his 19-year-old son, Sam. They walked the full 500 miles from St.-Jean-Pieddu-Port in France to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, and they carried their belongings on their backs the whole way.

That was not my Camino experience, I admit this to you, and I confessed as much to Andrew—who refers to those who walk only a portion of the trail or ride in a car to a hotel at the end of the day as Camino frauds. This was not Andrew’s first Camino. He had

walked it alone (even purer) years before, and back then, instead of sharing hotel rooms with his son, he slept in communal quarters in pilgrims’ hostels. I didn’t have five weeks, nor did I want to risk bedbugs in a bunk room, and thankfully, for my first Camino, I traveled with Elizabeth and a small group of openminded Camino virgins. On our first day, we shared anxieties and stories of Camino shaming by trail purists. Our wonderful Spanish guide, who we later named the Sage of Santiago, told us, “There’s no one Camino.”

Elizabeth and I were the trip’s official leaders, and on the second day, we got lost together. A kind stranger, with whom we shared no common language, set us back on track. We’d been marveling at everything from a pair of ducks bathing in an ancient fountain to a dance studio offering lessons in twerking and pole dancing. Rather than really being lost, we had found ourselves fully alive in the moment.

The scallop shell, which marks the Camino trail, is said to signify the many paths that lead to Santiago as well as to commemorate the shells early pilgrims carried to ask for small scoops of water or food. “It isn’t about how many kilometers you walk, but how you walk the kilometers,” our guide said. “Are you present and awake? Are you taking it all in and letting the Camino work on you rather than you work on it? Do your own Camino.”

She also advised that we spend time walking alone. Our first trail steps, though, we took together into the town of Tui for dinner. A sign on the way read “Ultreia” which is how, in the Middle Ages, people hailed Camino walkers; today’s common greeting is “Buen

Camino .” Ultreia meant “Go further.” Yes, I thought, I want to go further.

Elizabeth, who has studied spiritual seeking both in her writings and as cofounder of Omega Institute, offered intention-setting sessions each morning before we set off. She shared Thich Nhat Hanh’s principles of walking meditation and invited us to be mindful walkers. “Each mindful breath, each mindful step, reminds us that we are alive on this beautiful planet,” she quoted the Vietnamese Buddhist monk. “We don’t need anything else. It is wonderful enough just to be alive, to breathe in, and to make one step. We have arrived at where real life is available—the present moment.”

Just being in the fields and smelling the jasmine, pines, eucalyptus and roses, and hearing the birdsong, the buzzing of bugs, the wind through the beech trees and the rumble of tires on the highway, I felt plugged into Earth’s thrumming energy. We were just as connected to the ancient pilgrims who had walked this same trail as we were to the lichen growing on the stone walls we passed and to the candles we lit in the chapels for loved ones who needed healing back home and to the flowers laid in the many small cemeteries and to the grapes beginning to emerge on the vines and to the cats sleeping in the sun. We were all part of the same tapestry, and we were exactly where we should be.

Along the way, we met people who had started their walks in Porto or in France, and others playing music, selling snacks or settling in the grass for a picnic. At one bend, a mother and daughter, who had been walking for three weeks, were soaking their feet in a

cold stream. We joined them for an icy foot plunge, and I took a photo for them to send by email to a frame that the mom’s 96-yearold mother kept by her bed. I had never heard of this technology, Frameo, but it will bring daily joy to my own technologically challenged mother when her children and grandchildren send new photos directly to the digital frame. Discovering this new way to connect with family was just one of so many surprising gifts on this journey.

Whether you walk the purist’s Camino or an abbreviated one, if you arrive at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, you receive a Camino certificate. I had to depart before our group reached Santiago, so I didn’t get one this year. I hope to next year, but the experience I had already is richer than anything that could be captured in a certificate. Our Indagare Camino-ers walked with open minds and open hearts and in so doing arrived in the present, where as Hanh suggests, “real life is available.” And of course, that is how all travel should be approached.

Do your own Camino. Set your own intentions and your own way. These are sentiments for any trip and how we plan personalized trips at Indagare. I hope this issue offers inspiration for the journeys ahead.

On the Road

MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY INDAGARE CEO @INDAGAREFOUNDER & @INDAGARETRAVEL

Indagare is a members-only boutique travel-planning company. We offer curated content, customized trip-planning and group trips around personal passions. Indagare Magazine is published twice annually exclusively for Indagare members. © 2023 Indagare. All Rights Reserved. See the magazine online at indagare.com. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Trip inquiries and change of address requests can be made by phone or by emailing info@indagare.com.

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Above: With co-host Elizabeth Lesser (left), author of Broken Open, and Sally Bentley, who produced the film Walking the Camino: Six Ways to Santiago on the Camino de Santiago Right: In Florence with Laudomia Pucci, who will usher our fall travelers behind the scenes in her family’s palazzo and villa in Tuscany.

ON OUR RADAR

Mediterranean Modern

This summer, Borgo Santandrea, in the tiny fishing hamlet of Conca dei Marni between Amalfi and Positano, debuts three new suites (16 in all) and one new room. Compared to the other iconic hotels lining the Amalfi Coast, Borgo Santandrea is a relative newcomer, transformed from a tired 1960s-era hotel into a mid-century dream destination by two families with hospitality roots in Ischia. Taking inspiration from designer Gio Ponti’s first hotel in Sorrento, the Parco dei Principi, the property’s crowning design feature is all of the hand-painted, handmade tiles evoking Mediterranean blues and whites. Look down and out to see the designs and the Mediterranean: to one side is Sophia Loren’s former villa, jutting from the headland; to the other is La Tonnarella, where they still serve lo spaghetto di Jacqueline, a favorite of Jackie Kennedy’s during her 1962 visit. Don’t miss the first meal of the day—one of the most spectacular hotel breakfasts you’ll ever have, with made-to-order fruit and vegetable juices alongside slices of panettone and dozens of local pastries and cakes.—ANNIE

FITZSIMMONS

A Wildflower Farms cottage in the Hudson Valley.

TOP TABLES: SUMMER

EDITION

Looking to secure a coveted reservation in your favorite resort town?

Jen Murphy highlights some of the season’s most in-demand tables— star-chef-helmed restaurants, omakase counters and beloved burger joints—from California to Nantucket.

ASPEN, COLORADO

The art-filled dining room of Parc could double as a gallery, but locals will tell you to sit at the bar, where the more casual menu includes gussied-up comfort food like a grass-fed burger topped with chimichurri and served on house-made focaccia. Madame Ushi is a sexy, belowground sushi den serving pristine fish and not-to-be missed decadent originals like Eggs Benedict, a Japanese-rolled omelet with hollandaise, caviar and chives over milk bread.

TELLURIDE, COLORADO

The toughest reservation in town is a spot at the 10-seat omakase bar at Kazahana Sushi, to experience the 15-course tasting menu prepared by a master sushi chef from Japan. For less of a commitment, book a table in the dining room. Aficionados will appreciate the interesting sake list.

BRECKENRIDGE, COLORADO

Dishes like roasted bone marrow brûlée and Colorado lamb paired with house-made lamb sausage, labneh, tabbouleh and stewed peppers have made Rootstalk a destination restaurant in Colorado. The exceptional hospitality and well-curated wine program have earned a loyal local following. Splurge on the five- or seven-course tasting menu.

JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING

This summer, Jackson institution Billy’s Burgers will be reborn within the newly renovated Virginian Lodge. Original 1950s-diner-inspired menu items like the signature half-pound burger, waffle fries and onion rings will be lovingly re-created to go with extra-thick shakes and local craft beers.

SANTA BARBARA, CALIFORNIA

Acclaimed chef Manny Diaz reimagines traditional Mexican dishes with creative twists and local ingredients at new downtown spot

Azul Cocina and Cantina. His riff on mole features hazelnut and pairs with pan-roasted duck breast, sweet potato and quinoa; house carnitas come with a purslane pico de gallo.

THE HAMPTONS

The Michelin-award-winning chef Melissa O’Donnell is the mastermind behind Sag Harbor Kitchen. The waterfront spot plans to offer cooking classes and guest chef dinners. In Hampton Bays, Istanbul native Ülfet Ralph channels bright Mediterranean flavors on her menu at Good Ground Tavern in the recently reborn Canoe Place Inn and Cottages.

KENNEBUNKPORT, MAINE

Set within a restored 19th-century farmhouse half a mile from Dock Square, Wandby Landing features an Italian-influenced menu of wood-fired pizzas and house-made pastas like mafaldine spiked with red-wine-braised octopus. Interesting wines and small bites— fried oysters and clam fritters—have made the 22-seat bar the preferred local hangout.

WOODSTOCK, VERMONT

Zoe Zilian, cofounder of cult Woodstock ceramics studio Farmhouse Pottery, has reimagined the former auto shop of Laurance S. Rockefeller as a cozy, European-style cocktail lounge named Au Comptoir. Cocktails crafted from artisanal spirits and house-made ingredients like orgeat and bitters are served in vintage glassware with haute small bites such as caviar and chips. Don’t miss the summer Spritz cart.

NANTUCKET, MASSACHUSETTS

The Pearl, one of the island’s longest-running restaurants, reopens under new ownership with a fresh menu of Japanese- and French-influenced seafood dishes and classic cocktails. Gabriel Frasca, chef-owner of island icon Straight Wharf, has plans for a 62-seat waterfront clam shack with an attached fish market.

Clockwise from top left: Napa’s Loveski; veal stroganoff at Parc Aspen; Rootstalk executive chef Matt Vawter, in Breckenridge; a lavender Spritz at Good Ground Tavern in the Hamptons; Au Comptoir’s Zoe Zilian, in Woodstock, Vermont; a spread at Ciccio in Napa Valley.

Napa Newsflash The redesign of the Restaurant at Meadowood is several years away, but Michelin-decorated chef Christopher Kostow is using the downtime to expand his Napa empire. Loveski Deli, located in Oxbow Public Market, puts a farm-forward, Cali twist on Jewish deli staples with a menu of handmade sourdough bagels and sandwiches like a kimchi-laced Reuben. He also recently took the reins at longtime local haunt Ciccio, where he’s honoring beloved menu items such as pizzas and negronis. “It’s exciting to help ensure that this place survives and thrives,” says Kostow.—J.M.

THE OUTDOOR TREATMENT

To help guests make the most of their precious time in the 49th state, Tutka Bay Lodge is now offering an all-new, outside-only wellness menu. Expect seaside yoga, floating meditation on a kayak or paddleboard and wilderness sound bathing. Plus: take that nature-inspired serenity home with you, thanks to a Spotify playlist of the “music” of Alaska—from the lapping waves to the calls of eagles.—PETER

SCHLESINGER

Where to Shop: Beirut

Since 1862, Maison Tarazi has specialized in custom art and decoration following the traditions of Syrian, Lebanese, Ottoman, Moroccan and even Indian arts and crafts. Maison Tarazi’s work—furniture, ceilings, paneling and lighting—can be found in hotels, palaces and royal courts all over the world, and its artisans, architects and designers focus on woodwork, copper, mother-of-pearl and glass. They recently helped restore the Salon Arabe at the Sursock Museum, which was showcased in a video the Indagare Productions team created as part of our Bank of America partnership. Now, Camille Tarazi and his sister, Carole, who is a designer for the brand and the former fashion editor of Elle Arabia, run the company, and a visit to see artisans working on mother-of-pearl inlay and delicate woodwork carving is like stepping back in time. Pieces can be customized. maisontarazi.com —KATHRYN NATHANSON

Clockwise from left: Alaska’s Tutka Bay Lodge from above; wild Alaska mushrooms; artisans at work at Maison Tarazi in Beirut; Carole and Camille Tarazi.

HOTEL WATCH: OPENINGS TO KNOW

LONDON A Historic Debut for Raffles

With a complete overhaul of the Old War Office on Whitehall, Raffles will enter the U.K. as a 120-room luxury hotel and urban gathering hub. Historic details abound—from the grand staircase (where, apparently, Winston Churchill would expound from the balcony) to former executive offices turned Heritage suites and landmarked floors. The 27,000-squarefoot Guerlain spa has an indoor pool with a double-height ceiling. Plus, there are nine restaurants and three bars, including an outpost of Paris’s Café Lapérouse in the courtyard.

CAPRI The Original Jet-Setter Hotel

The revamped Hotel La Palma, one of the original jet-setter favorites and now part of the Oetker Collection, has opened in time for the summer season on Capri. The island’s very first hotel, it was built in 1822 just steps from the Piazzetta. Today, 50 rooms and suites have been reimagined—with soul intact—by interior designer Francis Sultana and architect Francesco Delogu, plus there is a rooftop restaurant by Michelin-starred chef Gennaro Esposito and a private beach club (the hottest ticket on the island this summer).

NANTUCKET Happy 100 Years: White Elephant, Refreshed

For a century, White Elephant has been an island mainstay—as essential as sandwiches from Something Natural for beach picnics. Along with its anniversary, the hotel has unveiled a multimillion-dollar renovation. Each of the 11 cottages takes inspiration from a local plant like honeysuckle or snapdragon; all furnishings have been replaced and given a lighter, brighter feel; and the hotel partnered with Arhaus on lounge furniture. If you’re there this summer, grab a limitededition White Elephant X Arhaus cashmere throw from the shop.—A.F.

“I love stocking up in foreign pharmacies. In Italy, I recently discovered Isdin Hyaluronic, a great lip balm, and Miamo sun drops for the face.”—Melissa Biggs Bradley, Indagare Founder

TRAVEL RITUALS

Clockwise from above: White Elephant Nantucket; La Palma’s rooftop lounge; Haldane Suite, Raffles London OWO.

DESIGN FINDS: SCANDINAVIA

Anthony Barzilay Freund, Editorial Director of 1stDibs, travels often for work, to see art and design galleries, antiques fairs or museum shows or to scout homes that might appear in the pages of Introspective, 1stDibs’s weekly online magazine. Here, his short list of 1stDibs dealers discovered on a recent family trip to Copenhagen and Stockholm.

COPENHAGEN

“A visit with Tina Seidenfaden Busck at The Apartment, her design store/gallery, in a canal-side residential building in Christianshavn. Tina’s wonderful eye (for both the pieces themselves—European 20th-century design and antiques from around the globe—and the way she curates the space) is matched by her charm and warmth. The contemporary art and design gallery Etage Projects and Galleri Feldt, for their offerings of highlights of Scandinavian modernism. In Odense, Denmark, these two galleries

Summer Trip Tips: Arles

specialize in antique and vintage Scandinavian pieces that are full of character: Eliaselias and Helmer Design & Antik.”

STOCKHOLM

“Modernity, Scotsman Andrew Duncanson and Swede Isaac Pineus’s peerless gallery of iconic 20th-century Scandinavian design. To see their extraordinary inventory in its native habitat was mind-blowing. Other exemplary purveyors of Scandinavian design include Nordlings and Studio Designboard.

Studio Schalling is in Malmö, not Stockholm, but you can stop in on your way to/from Copenhagen.”

Indagare members receive 20 percent off their first purchase on 1stDibs (up to $375 in savings), when they sign up for a 1stDibs account. Plus, they get an exclusive consultation with a 1stDibs Private Client specialist. Learn more at 1stdibs. com/about/indagare-partnership

Art & Culture: Visit LUMA Arles Foundation founder Maja Hoffman’s Parc des Ateliers; Musée Réattu; Fondation Vincent van Gogh and Lee Ufan Arles.

Festival Dates: Les Rencontres d’Arles photography festival runs through September 24; and Les Suds à Arles music festival is on from July 10-16.

Where to Eat: The Drum Café at LUMA Arles, L’Arlatan’s restaurant and L’Épicerie du Cloître

Best Time to Visit: If you’re not going for the festivals, come in late fall or early spring for less heat and fewer tourists.

Fun Fact: Arles has the largest number of Roman ruins outside of Rome.

Good to Know: Cars are banned in town, so try Taco and Co. pedicab. SYDNEY LAPIN

Clockwise from top left: Modernity; Galleri Feldt; Etage Projects

SHOPPING NEWS: SICILY

J.J. Martin’s ultra-chic brand La DoubleJ has opened a two-floor Taormina outpost this summer on Corso Umberto near Piazza IX Aprile—and it’s glorious. What to take home: playful day dresses, accessories, rainbow slides and bucket hats in Martin’s eye-catching archival prints; cool-classic home designs (porcelain pieces with names like Odysseus and Vesuvio); rare vintage items and boldly patterned napkins and pillow covers; and a clementine-scented candle from the new Scents from the Motherland Collection. It’s Italian style with a capital S (the fashion equivalent of Proust’s madeleines to evoke summer in southern Italy). Open through August JEN BARR

TRAVEL RITUALS “I always look for a good book or stationery shop (like Daunt Books in London or Fabriano in Rome) to remind me of a trip.”—Jen Barr, Senior Content & Brand Strategy Director

Spotlight: Tangier

Tangier has tantalized artists, romantics and design lovers for years with its heady mix of Mediterranean climate and Moroccan heritage, but until last year when the Fairmont Tazi Palace opened, it lacked a luxury hotel (with a fashionable history). In June, hotelier Jasper Conran opened Villa Mabrouka, once the home of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, as a 12-room hotel. Having spent weeks with its residents, I can tell you Tangier is not a seaside Marrakech. As one initiate of both cities said, “Marrakech and Tangier are as different as chalk and cheese.”—M.B.B. (Read Melissa’s Tangier Cheat Sheet at indagare.com.)

J.J. Martin’s Taormina La DoubleJ shop and, right, the designer with her signature designs.

INSPIRATIONS: VILLA LA COSTE

Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley calls Château La Coste in Provence “one of the most incredible contemporary art experiences that exists in the world today,” with more than 30 major works and architecture pavilions onsite alongside Villa La Coste, a 28-suite hotel. Behind the impressive collection is the passion of hotelier Paddy McKillen. “I never wanted to buy something in art or architecture that wasn’t on view or available,” McKillen says. “Art is there to be shown.” On Passport to Everywhere, her SiriusXM podcast, Melissa sat down with McKillen to talk about his inspiration for the estate and upcoming exhibitions, including the new Oscar Niemeyer Pavilion, the architect’s last

big project—he handed over the final drawing two days before he died. Also new this year is a piece by artist Damien Hirst, “a beautiful chapel,” says McKillen, “that we began creating in February. This will be his first-ever structure, and Damien took up the role gladly.” Along with Hirst’s chapel, there are new projects by Norman Foster and Antony Gormley. And one of Louise Bourgeois’s steel towers, originally created for a Tate Modern show, has been installed on-site in a special chamber created by architect Jean Nouvel (a project 12 years in the making) and will house a permanent collection of glassware, tapestries, bronzes and more by Bourgeois.—S.L.

TRAVEL RITUALS “I always visit dog parks in cities as it connects me to locals and one of their daily rituals. A favorite is Prospect Park in Brooklyn before 9:00 a.m.—Annie

Fitzsimmons, Editorial Director

New Spa to Know: The Bothy

WHAT: The Bothy by Wildsmith, the long-awaited wellness concept at Indagare Index Adored property Heckfield Place, in Hampshire, England. WHY WE LOVE IT: The only thing missing at the 400-acre Georgian estate was a spa of impressive proportions, and now it has one with 17,000 square feet of fitness, mindfulness and treatment spaces—all centering on the healing powers of nature. ON THE MENU: The Farm Fit class (an HIIT-style circuit involving milk churns, hay bales and more); healing sessions, including naturopathy, osteopathy and craniosacral therapy; the Wildsmith Radical Botany facial.

ELIZABETH HARVEY

TRAVEL RITUALS “On one of my first mornings in a new place, I like going on a long run to cover a lot of ground and scope out the sites. Sometimes there’s a rough route in my head, but mostly I just turn down the streets or paths that seem most interesting.—Peter Schlesinger, Associate Director of Digital Content

Flight Tracker: Fly Like a Kiwi

Flying direct to New Zealand (see page 70) just got easier thanks to Air New Zealand’s Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner and 777-300ER from six U.S. airports, including JFK, LAX and Chicago. Clocking in at 16.5 hours, the flight from JFK to Auckland may be one of the world’s longest, but it’s now one of the most luxurious, with Business Premier lie-flat beds and Premium Economy and Skycouch (aka “cuddle class,”) for those traveling together. Coming in 2024: More flight options and even more space onboard.—J.B.

From left: A quiet corner at The Bothy by Wildsmith Spa; the spa’s pool with a countryside view.

THE CULTURE HIT LIST: SUMMER 2023 Top Exhibitions

Mario Mercado has rounded up your summer arts preview: what’s on at the world’s leading institutions—including the latest exhibitions and the newest museums—plus the top tickets worth traveling for. Here are five highlights. See indagare.com for his full list

New York City

The American Museum of Natural History Expands

The striking curves of the Gilder Center—the new Columbus Avenue entrance to the American Museum of Natural History— invite curiosity. A nexus for exhibitions, research collections and education, the multistory building by Studio Gang has an audacious, anthropomorphic interior. The annex includes a 3,000-square-foot butterfly vivarium and the Invisible Worlds Theater, an immersive experience revealing connections among life on earth, from ocean depths to DNA strands.

Norfolk, England

21st-Century Art in an 18th-Century Home

This year, Houghton Hall, a great Palladian house in Norfolk, England, is the setting for “Smaller Than the Sky,” which features paintings, works on paper and sculpture by contemporary artist Sean Scully. The art, some especially created for the show (notably, sculpture in a range of materials), is on view in the historic rooms of the house, the North Colonnade and Contemporary Gallery and formal gardens. Houghton Hall, built in the 1720s for Robert Walpole, Britain’s first prime minister, remains a residence of the Cholmondeley family. With distinguished collections of art, antiques and furniture, the estate merits visiting— this summer, doubly so. Through October 29

BASQUIAT & WARHOL SIDE BY SIDE IN PARIS

“Basquiat x Warhol: Painting Four Hands” at Fondation Louis Vuitton explores the mutual influence between the artists, who collaborated on around 160 paintings together in 1984 and 1985. Although a 30-year age difference separated the two, their work in tandem, a dialogue of forms and styles, stimulated their individual practice and characterized the singular energy of the downtown New York art scene of the 1980s.

Through August 28.

Los Angeles

Keith Haring at the Broad

In the early 1980s, NYC subway riders noticed chalk-line drawings on unused advertising spaces. A barking dog, a crawling baby or hearts supported by dancing figures captured the imagination of businessmen and children alike. The Broad’s “Keith Haring: Art is for Everybody” brings together 120 works, including video, sculpture and painting, as well as exuberant subway drawings, to consider the achievement of a figure whose influence exceeded his brief 31-year life. Through October 8.

Spain & France Picasso, 50 Years Later

The 50th anniversary of Picasso’s death has spurred more than 50 exhibitions (33 in Spain and France alone), demonstrating his legacy across genres. Highlights: “Picasso 1969–1972: The End of the Beginning” at the Picasso Museum in Antibes, France, considers his last years (through July 2); at the Picasso Museum in Paris, “Picasso Celebration: The Collection in a New Light” focuses on his enduring relevance (through August 27); and the Prado’s “Picasso-El Greco,” in Madrid, explores the Renaissance master’s influence (through September 17).

MEMBER TRAVELS

The Indagare community is always seeking (and returning with) inspiring finds and reports of incredible experiences. Here, members share adventures fit for the whole family.

THIS PAST YEAR HAS SEEN a surge in travel, but family travel in particular has been an undisputed priority for much of the Indagare community. Not only have those trips that were put on the back burner during the pandemic finally come to fruition, but new trips have been slotted into the calendar, as travelers strive to see those far-flung,

dream destinations with the people they love most. At Indagare, we believe that how you travel matters, and we remain committed to ensuring that your travels are as meaningful as possible. On the following pages, several Indagare families—big and small—reflect on recent travels, and the memories they’ll never forget.

- THE TRIPSPRING BREAK IN FRENCH POLYNESIA

THE STOPS Bora Bora and The Brando

“The bungalow at the Four Seasons Bora Bora was massive and lovely, and the hotel, beautiful and top-rate. For activities, we did the Jet Ski with lunch at Bora Bora Beach Café, wakeboarding, swimming and snorkeling with sharks and stingrays. The Brando was also sublime. On the third night, the Beachcomber chef cooked the tuna we caught, and we were treated to a Polynesian dance performance from the staff. That was our favorite meal.”—Indagare member P.B.

- THE TRIPESCAPE TO JACKSON HOLE THE STOP Jackson

“Jackson Hole was a magical getaway. We usually dream of a beach vacation, but with one child in college, we decided on a snowy trip with our high-school-age son. The highlight of the trip was the mountain view from our room at the Four Seasons, and the snowmobile journey past waterfalls to a dip in the natural hot springs was a blast. All great fun and relaxation.”—Amy & Carlo Salgado

- THE TRIPMULTI-GEN IN MOROCCO THE STOPS Fez & Marrakech

“We had a fantastic visit to Morocco. The tours, accommodations and restaurants were terrific. We were especially thrilled with our guide… He was wonderful, punctual and detailoriented, while also understanding that we were on vacation—he was always up for a spontaneous expedition. ‘Another great day’ was our refrain, starting with Volubilis (an excavated Roman city)… Everyone’s favorite meal was the mountaintop breakfast at a Berber home, though both Branson restaurants were also outstanding. We had a great time on the camels, and my kids loved the ATVs, which was my son’s first time driving other than Disneyland—how many kids can say that they learned to drive in the desert in Morocco?”—The Liftins

- THE TRIPJOURNEY TO JAPAN

THE STOPS Tokyo & Kyoto

“There were so many moments that made this trip extraordinary and created lifelong memories for our family: we sampled food of all kinds in street markets; we hiked through a bamboo forest to play with monkeys; we watched our family be transformed into manga characters by an artist; stood awestruck at the Tokyo night skyline from the top of Shibuya Sky; and rolled through neighborhoods on bikes— and snacked on our guide’s favorite treats. A top highlight: the afternoon we spent in the garden of a local shrine with a professor of calligraphy who shared his amazing technique. He helped us capture our trip in words that were transformed into works of art themselves.”—Indagare member

- THE TRIPOFF TO OCEANIA: AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

THE STOPS Sydney, Melbourne, Queenstown, Minaret Station & Cape Kidnappers

“We began with a Sydney Harbour cruise that felt like you were on a friend’s boat. Park Hyatt Sydney was top-notch, and the concierge at Park Hyatt Melbourne got us F1 tickets. Our guide took us on a bush tour overlooking Kangaroo Valley and was great with my kids. We got up close with wallaroos, wombats and wallabies. In New Zealand, Minaret Station was the standout. You helicopter in with the mountains all around you—the most jaw-dropping life-experience-packed trip we’ve ever been on. Every day had something we’ll remember for a lifetime.”—Steph

Walker

A PERFECT DAY IN... ANTWERP

Creative

ANTWERP’S CHIC EASE has long attracted design and fashion lovers. After a massive 11-year renovation, the reopening last fall of KMSKA (aka the Royal Museum of Fine Arts) has put Antwerp in the spotlight again, with exhibitions arranged around concepts like Evil, Power and Madonna. Plus, there is an immersive Old Master experience. We asked Antwerp insider Tania Beasley-Jolly for the best places to eat, shop and explore in Belgium’s second-largest city.

Why Antwerp

“I would describe myself as a multi-hyphenate—I’ve been an art historian, opera singer, founder of a fashion nonprofit and now a consultant in the luxury and fashion space. I am most proud of my role in creating the Saint Louis Fashion Fund, which turns 10 next year. Being a mom is also a highlight, of course! (We first lived abroad here more than 16 years ago.) I fell in love with Antwerp’s culture, the food, the fashion, the interior design and the architecture. It’s not a place where you can immediately see the beauty, but once you rub away the grime, many jewels present themselves.”

Morning Rituals

“I always start wandering around my old neighborhood in the center of town near the Groenplaats (Green Square), discovering new and old places. I stop at Philip’s Biscuits and Goossens bakery for raisin bread, where there is always a queue. Then, I head over to Verso to meet friends for coffee and take a quick look at their multi-brand merchandise and then head across the street to Renaissance to shop.”

Afternoon Delights

“Lunch is always at Shuk for the best Middle Eastern meze.

It was started by old friends, Molly and Ika Zaken. They met in Paris many moons ago as two young chefs. I leave very full and fueled! From there, it’s directly to the mothership—the flagship Dries Van Noten at Het Modepaleis (“The Fashion Palace”) and a stop into the ModeMuseum (MoMu). One of my favorite new discoveries is La Collection, co-founded by Florence Cools. The clothes are clean, chic and well… Belgian. I’m obsessed.

I also discovered a fabulous new shoe store, MOROBÉ, on my last trip—the shoes are beautifully well-made and special. I also love Antwerp’s amazing jewelry stores, including Wouters & Hendrix, Pascale Masselis and Jewel In A Box. From there it’s on to Botanic Sanctuary, the hip and stylish boutique hotel built in the botanical garden where I used to get coffee and let my young son play. The convent is now a super fab hotel, spa and restaurant. Other great hotels: De Witte Lelie, the August and Hotel FRANQ.”

consultant and longtime resident Tania Beasley-Jolly shares her guide to the stylish city.

Always in My Carry-On

“We need to start with the carry-on itself! Mine is from Tufts and Batson, a Saint Louis-based brand that makes the most luxurious bespoke trunks and suitcases. The tweed is from the same atelier that makes Chanel tweed. It’s a work of art and one-of-a-kind—true luxury. My current travel uniform is comprised of a Khaite Balton blazer, R13 jeans and the Row Pony Hair Black Canal flats.”

ALSO CAN’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT...

•Vaseline: for lips, hands, make-up remover…

•Red lipstick by Dries Van Noten

•Le Labo: Another 13 scent

•A great cashmere throw by Eric Bompard

•Jewelry: “Bulgari Serpenti watch, Vhernier ring and my favorite new Audry Rose lock necklace.”

•Magazines: Elle Décor, Harper’s Bazaar and Tatler

•Sunglasses: “I am in love with this German brand right now, Kuboraum, out of Berlin.”

•”A change of clothes for a fancy dinner, as well as trainers and workout clothes, too. A workout is just as important as a nice night out.”

Clockwise from left: MoMu Antwerp; Bar Bulot; Botanic Sanctuary. Opposite: Tania Beasley-Jolly.

In the Evening

“For dinner, I meet friends at Bar Bulot or go to one of the other amazing restaurants/institutions in Antwerp. There is no shortage—The Jane, Huis de Colvenier, ‘t Fornuis, Hertog Jan at Botanic Sanctuary, Album, Fiskebar, Misera and De Godevaart.”

For First-Time Visitors

“If you want it all, you must do the KMSKA in the het Zuid area; have a Belgian beer with frietjes (fries) and mayonnaise in the Grote Markt; shop up and down the Meir (main shopping street); visit the Vogelmarkt weekend market and Kloosterstraat for more shopping. The Rubens House is also a must-see. Lastly, it would not be complete without having at least one piece of Belgian chocolate or a suikerwafel.”

For Return Visitors

“If you like nature and architecture, go walk around Cogels-Osylei, a street in Zurenborg, for all of the amazing

houses (from art nouveau to neoclassical palaces), or take a hike in Middelheimpark, where you can grab a drink or snack. Walk—one tiny street or square gives way to another. I would also spend some time in Het Eilandje (Antwerp’s “Little Island”). It has been built up quite a bit over the last decade and the Museum aan de Stroom, MAS, is there. Visit some of Antwerp’s galleries—Kathy Pedrami’s gallery is a favorite. You could also visit the zoo or the Museum of Contemporary Art (MHKA)Antwerp. Try to catch a senior fashion presentation at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts— the next crop of designers is coming out of here.”

A Perfect Sunday

“Sundays are for brunch with friends at Graanmarkt 13 (which is also a wonderful concept store), or a trip to the Vogelmarkt weekend market, where my son used to pet real bunnies. Now, you can sip Champagne and eat oysters at any number of the vendors. I spend the afternoon visiting the KMSKA or the MAS or visiting other favorite stores like Monique Stam, VIAR, Studio Henk and endless antique options.”

—INTERVIEW BY ANNIE FITZSIMMONS

Visit the Kanaal District by designer Axel Vervoordt. Just outside of Antwerp, this gallery and exhibition space offers an inspiring look at Belgian design and features works of such artists as Anish Kapoor.”

–MELISSA BIGGS BRADLEY, INDAGARE FOUNDER

AROUND THE WORLD WITH TANIA: HOTELS I LOVE

GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO, LAKE COMO, ITALY

“We went at the beginning of the season, and we were the only ones there. I felt like Eloise. We spent every evening alone in the grand salon sipping negronis and reading the newspapers. I felt like it was my villa that week.”

THE YEATMAN HOTEL, PORTO

“Two words: the View.”

HOTEL LUTETIA, PARIS

“We spent our 50th birthdays and our 20th wedding anniversary in this 6th arrondissement haven, above. Nothing was too much to ask, and the location is our favorite as it feels more Parisian, with Le Bon Marché across the street.”

GRAND HYATT, TOKYO

“A truly sophisticated stay with a TOTO washlet.”

THE UPPER HOUSE, HONG KONG

“Fashion lives here.”

HOTEL BEL-AIR, LOS ANGELES

“Private, chic and secluded.”

Opposite: A canal view. Clockwise from above: Shopping at Verso; raisin bread at Goossens bakery; meze at Shuk.

WISH YOU WERE HERE

LULU DEKWIATKOWSKI’S eyecatching travel paintings started as visual journals of trips, dreamy reminders of sunny summer holidays in France, Italy and Greece; the Greek set came from a boat trip through the islands for her mother-in-law’s 90th birthday. Fortunately, her site, luludk.com, will soon offer an option to purchase these prints and frame them in your own home.

deKwiatkowski is a textile and interior designer by trade, with licensing agreements that have spanned from bedding for Matouk to gift bags for Clinique. Born and raised in New York, she now lives full-time in the Bahamas with her husband and three boys, but travels often, all over the world—including to a little apartment in Paris’s 8th arrondissement that she has had since she was 21 years old. Here are some of her global favorites.

LOS ANGELES

“In L.A., one of my best friends, Natalie Martin, is reopening her shop on Melrose this fall. It’s such a vacation store.

Lily Lodge Flowers across the street is also great!”

BAHAMAS

“Out at sea, you want someone to take you to the beautiful underwater sculpture garden and statues for the Breef Project, a foundation that helps rebirth coral and build awareness. Take a little seaplane to the outer islands for a day. There is beautiful, icy-blue water, and the Berry Islands —great for kids; they can climb over the rocks and jump in. Stay in Lyford Cay , Old Fort or Albany. They’re in the same area but with different clubs where I would rent a house. There are great restaurants in the clubs, as well as Island Brothers for French food with a West

Lulu deKwiatkowsi, inset above, and her destination inspiration: pink sands on Harbour Island and Il Pellicano, right. Top: One of the artist’s travel-inspired prints.

Indian vibe; Cocoplum ; and Shima for Asian fusion in the Island House hotel. The best shops are The Island Store and Sabrina’s Shoppe, in the center between all the various clubs, and very cute.”

ITALY

“We go to Italy every summer, to where a lot of my artwork is drawn from and where my husband’s family is from. It’s right next to Il Pellicano, highly recommended, where we go for drinks and dinner. Everyone jumps off the big Pellicano Rock there. Capalbio is right next to Porto Ercole—it’s less of a beach area, but very local, so you do get all the Milanese there.”

—INTERVIEW BY ANNIE FITZSIMMONS

Designer Lulu deKwiatkowski, whose art is inspired by summers in Europe, shares her travel favorites.

MELISSA’S TRAVELS

My Summer Packing Tips

Easy, breezy

“I wear a lot of lightweight, breathable fabrics, such as linen, bamboo and cotton, which will keep me cool (and are also easy to wash).”

Keep it carry-on chic “Choose a color scheme to orient your looks around and minimize extra items. I only pack two pairs of shoes (one day and one evening) and two bathing suits and bring cover-ups that I’ll wear more than once; some can go from beach to stylish lunch or even to dinner. I love colorful dresses with patterns. The Mediterranean is such a fun destination to dress for—there’s so much creativity and beauty. My clothes can celebrate that spirit.”

Rules to live by “Bring comfortable walking shoes, sun protection (a great hat, scarf and sunglasses—as well as sunscreen) and wear your outer layers on the plane to save room in your luggage.”

GET THE PERK: MYTHERESA X INDAGARE

Traveling in style is easy with our partner Mytheresa, the finest edit in luxury. Scan the QR code (right) to shop the curated edits for your next trip. PLUS Indagare members have exclusive access to Mytheresa’s Personal Shopping service. Get custom packing lists and try on at home or at your hotel before purchasing. Email myindagare@mytheresa.com to get started.

Clockwise from top left: Melissa in an Alémais linen shirtdress; raffia sun hat by Agua by Agua Bendita; platform espadrilles by Stella McCartney; cat-eye sunglasses by Celine; ramie maxi dress by Zimmermann; swimsuit by Oséree; chiffon caftan by Alexandra Miro. Available at mytheresa.com.

CHECKING IN: CHARLESTON

CHARLESTON’S WELCOMING Southern charms, distinctive sense of place and layers of history are reflected in its best hotels—like The Dewberry, the mid-century modern design haven John Dewberry launched in 2017; the historic 18-room Zero George, which just turned 10; and new grande dame Hotel Bennett, overlooking Marion Square, which developer Michael Bennett opened before Covid. And now, the battle of independents is on again in this city that takes its hospitality seriously. On a recent visit, we learned more about the revamp of The Charleston Place (formerly a Belmond property) being led by the Beemok Hospitality Collection, founded by local businessman and philanthropist Ben Navarro, a proponent of generational hotel ownership. The BHC is also behind The Cooper, which promises to transform the city’s waterfront by 2025. The 209-room hotel will have multiple restaurants and shops and a 7,000-square-foot spa, along with a rooftop bar, pool and marina, space for events—and some of the city’s best harbor and skyline views. Union Pier, a boardwalk project in the works, plans to extend northeast from Concord Street to the new International African American Museum (IAAM) that’s opening this summer (see Insider Picks). It’s an essential stop in this city for a fuller understanding of Black history and Gullah culture. Building cranes are visible from the rooftop of The Loutrel, a 50-room property that opened just south of City Market, post-Covid. We also checked in at The Pinch, the stylish newcomer with 22 rooms, The Quinte Oyster Bar and suites and three residences that make you want to stay a while; its sister residential-style property, Roost, will open nearby in early 2024.

Last but not least, a Four Seasons appears to be in the offing: a rezoning request for 155 Meeting Street was read at a spring City Council meeting, but will have to pass muster with the Board of Architectural Review and Historic Charleston Foundation first to raise the roof in this town. That the city’s hotel scene has been mostly controlled by locals seems right when you consider that its motto, Civitatis Regimine Donata, translates to “given to the rule of the citizens.” And with the arrival of the International African American Museum, we couldn’t be happier for more reasons to head to Charleston.

MORE ON CHARLESTON

Listen to International African American Museum (IAAM) president and CEO Dr. Tonya Matthews on the Passport to Everywhere podcast. Find reviews and intel on Charleston at indagare.com.

A loft-style King Suite at The Pinch, below.

Right: Rooftop city views from The Citrus Club at The Dewberry hotel. Far right: The Quinte Oyster Bar at The Pinch.

As the International African American Museum opens, the city’s hotel scene is heating up. Jen Barr reports.

Know Before You Go

TOP TABLES

“Add Sorelle to the short list with Fig, 167 Raw and 167 Sushi, Chez Nous, Chubby Fish and Vern’s Sorelle opened in February in my neighborhood, so I eat here (and stop in at the shop) often. It’s my new favorite for business and pleasure. And for ice cream, Off Track has the best gluten-free and vegan ice cream. Need to give your gut a break? Basic Kitchen has tasty, healthy fare and an excellent beetroot margarita. (It’s all about balance.)”

BEST SIPS

“For coffee, Mudhouse, Harken (great for a light lunch, too) or Sorelle Mercado (don’t miss the pastries). For something stronger: Wine at Bin 152 or Stems and Skins , cocktails at the bar at Husk, Bar 167 (not to be confused with 167 Raw), Babas, Citrus Club at The Dewberry and the bar at Sorelle.”

TOP SHOPS

“ Ibu Movement , for caftans, handembroidered coats and one-of-a-kind pieces crafted by and supporting women’s collectives from 40 countries—and their mission to create

‘the means and the marketplace to rise through the art of their hands.’ King Street used to be lined with antique shops, many of which have now turned over to brands that can afford the rent. Tucker Payne Antiques remains on the main drag and is worth a stop and a gab for serious treasure hunters. Fritz Porter and Nomad are great, too.”

TOP STROLL & GO-TO YOGA

“Go to the corner of Legare and Broad and walk south to Tradd, South Battery, and get lost in the south of Broad neighborhood . My favorite time of day is dusk, which provides voyeuristic delight. Time to give your calves a break? Grayce Yoga is my favorite studio and has drop-in rates.”

NOT TO BE MISSED

“A visit to the International African American Museum, which celebrates stories of innovation, community, hope and empowerment across the African diaspora and has a free genealogy library, where visitors of all backgrounds, especially African American, can trace their ancestral roots. The museum has already made an enormous impact on the local discourse around race and slavery and is helping the community heal and step into a united future.”

CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT: ABBY SANDMAN; PENHA LONGA RESORT; ABBY SANDMAN.

Clockwise from top left: Andrew Cebulka, courtesy The Dewberry; by Matthew Williams; by Christian Harder Photography, courtesy The Pinch.

Tips from Indagare’s Charleston-based Elise Bronzo

CATCH ME IN GHANA

Jessica Nabongo, the first Black woman to visit every country in the world, shares her insights on Ghana, including the activities not to miss, the best local spots and her favorite street foods—one of which may appear in her upcoming cookbook with National Geographic

JESSICA FIRST TRAVELED to Ghana on the eve of 2011. It was her 29th country. Twelve years and 166 countries later, Ghana’s grip on her is as strong as ever. “When I land there, I feel like it’s giving me a warm hug… My favorite memories are just the joy of the people and the kindness and just partying until the sun comes up—which I never, ever do… when I’m there, I don’t know who I am.”

An author, entrepreneur, photographer and world traveler, Jessica appeared on Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley’s podcast Passport to Everywhere . In the episode, Travel Trailblazers, they discuss the benefits of traveling solo, Jessica’s trips to countries the U.S. considers dangerous and off-limits and travel’s ability to bridge various cultures and communities. “I really hope that it makes people think differently about the world,” she says, when asked what she hopes readers will take away from her book, The Catch Me If You Can, which follows her journey to all 195 countries. “I hope that people take away that most people are good and that there is beauty everywhere.” The beauty of Ghana, and its capital city of Accra, feels undeniable when hearing her talk about it.

Why Accra: “Typically, when people travel to the African continent, they focus on beaches and safari. Accra is a really great way to get into traveling to the continent’s cities.”

Favorite Activities: Visiting the Nubuke Foundation and exploring the arts scene; shopping for Ghanaian souvenirs at Accra Arts Center ; cultural festivals, especially Chale Wote Street Art Festival

Favorite Restaurant: Chez Clarisse —“It’s some of the best food in Accra. I recommend the grilled fish with a side of jollof rice and plantains.”

Street-Food Musts: Kelewele , spiced and fried plantains, and waakye, a mix of rice and beans.

Local Watering Holes: “Sandbox Beach Club (below), designed by Sir David Adjaye, the architect behind the National Museum of African American

History and Culture (in Washington, D.C.) and the Republic Bar & Grill.”

Big Night Out: “ Polo Beach Club, especially during festive season. Ghanaians party in a way no one else in the world can.”

Don’t Miss: A day trip to Cape Coast “It’s a necessary visit for anybody that goes to the country, because you get to understand the history of the Atlantic slave trade… No matter who you are or where you’re from, you’ve been affected by the slave trade.”

Top Tip: “Treat it like any other country you visit. The same way you would travel in France, travel in Ghana.”

—INTERVIEW BY ABBY SANDMAN

Start simple, start close to home. Take a road trip two or three hours from your home and explore that place, meet some local people,” says Jessica Nabongo. “Locals know more than Google does.”

For more of Jessica’s travel wisdom, listen to her conversation with Melissa Biggs Bradley on Passport to Everywhere (“Travel Trailblazers”), wherever you get your podcasts.

CAMERA-READY

Indagare Productions Director Kathryn Nathanson, who travels the world producing

experiences, reveals some of her favorite moments from the road.

A DYNAMIC LIVE conversation on how to pack, shot from a hotel in New York City, one day; the next, a behindthe-scenes tour in Lebanon, Berlin or Egypt with an expert local guide: The Indagare Productions team creates immersive multimedia content—videos, podcasts and events—for Indagare and our hospitality and corporate partners. Here’s a closer look behind the scenes— from Scotland to Rwanda.

Tell us about a few of your favorite moments this year while working on Indagare Productions.

“I’ve been lucky to have traveled all over the world to produce projects for various Indagare partnerships, from Cambodia to Saudi Arabia to Sweden and beyond. Sometimes our shoots are rooted in history, heritage, art and conservation, other times they are fully interactive and immersive, focused on gastronomy, wine or spirits. I love the diversity of the destinations, as well as the breadth of subjects that we cover. A favorite was filming a gorilla trek in Rwanda with Park Guide Emmanuel Harerimana, who told me that our day with the Sabyinyo family of endangered mountain gorillas was one for the books. We saw a mother nursing her newborn, a very rare sighting. In Egypt, we privatized the Great Sphinx of Giza for a live stream, behind-the-scenes tour with Egypt’s Head of Antiquities, Dr. Mostafa Waziry. We had to bring in generators and a crew of around 30 to make it all possible. It was during Ramadan and it was nearly 100 degrees, so I was working with a hot and hungry crew in the desert. But it was so moving and majestic standing at the foot of

the Sphinx. For our shoot at Angkor in Cambodia with the World Monuments Fund, we got permission to shoot drone footage, which they don’t normally allow. We were in the park with one-fifth the crowds as usual and filmed the most spectacular sunrise.”

Any intel on the top hotels you’ve been to lately?

“In Siem Riep, Cambodia, Phum Baitang has gorgeous villas located in rice and lemongrass fields and a contemporary take on Khmer architecture. I loved Wilderness Bisate Lodge in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park for its eco design, which highlights local crafts, as well as its intimacy, adventurous spirit, and hospitality. Every guest is invited to get involved in reforestation work and community projects. And I absolutely fell in love with The Fife Arms in the Scottish Highlands, right near Balmoral Castle. It is filled with more than 16,000 antiques and pieces of art, including works by Picasso and Lucian Freud. The hotel is historic and traditional but also whimsical, with an excellent spirit, cocktail and gastronomy program.”

What’s always in your carry-on?

“A Drowsy Sleep Co. silk sleep mask. A Lenovo portable monitor, which allows me to work with two screens. My travel-size noise machine, since I’m a sensitive sleeper. And a wine and/or Champagne stopper, when traveling to destinations with wine regions, as I’ll often purchase bottles that aren’t available in the U.S. There is a high chance I won’t get them all home, so I can still open a bottle and enjoy it over the course of a few days.”

one-of-a-kind

INDAGARE PRODUCTIONS HIGHLIGHTS

Melissa’s Podcast: Passport to Everywhere, our SiriusXM podcast and radio show, hosted weekly by Melissa Biggs Bradley, has an exciting roster of guests, including Richard Branson and Eric Ripert. Previous episodes have featured Christian Louboutin and Aerin Lauder as well as legendary hotels—the Ritz Paris, Villa La Coste in Provence, Claridge’s in London. Available wherever you get your podcasts.

Exclusive Experiences: Indagare partners with Bank of America to create exclusive, one-of-a-kind virtual experiences for their Preferred Rewards Diamond Honors tier members, live streamed from unique places around the world. Fifty members are invited, and receive special gifts in advance. In June, we traveled to Spain’s Basque Region for a live tour and interactive workshop at two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Mugaritz. In the fall, we’ll be live from Rodenbach Brewery in Belgium in time for Oktoberfest; then we’re headed to New Zealand’s Lodge at Kauri Cliffs for a live tour of the famous golf course with decorated caddie, Steve Williams.

A Special Arts Club: Art historian Dr. Page Knox recently hosted an art club on NYC’s most exciting art shows. Each week, members met via Zoom for an in-depth look at the life and work of the artists featured in some of the exhibitions at MoMA, the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Guggenheim. Check for more programs like this one at travel.indagare. com/productions

Kathryn shooting at Neist Point, on the Isle of Skye. Right, from top: Angkor sunrise; on set in San Miguel de Allende; filming mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park, in Rwanda.

Courtesy Kathryn Nathanson; top right: Marina Purcell

UPON ARRIVAL: SYDNEY

Indagare ambassador (and Sydney resident for 14-plus years)

Carrie Bellotti reports on the brand-new Capella Sydney—and what to see and do in the neighborhood.

AFTER A SEVEN-YEAR renovation of a 1900s sandstone building in the heart of the Central Business District (CBD), the transformation of Capella Sydney is complete—and the result, extending across an entire city block, is spectacular. The integrity of the original architecture has been maintained: the modern and sophisticated interiors offer a nod to the past through expertly curated art and exquisite craftsmanship and incorporate wood, wool and stone from Australia throughout. The hotel, with 192 rooms and suites across nine floors, brings the heritage of Australia’s First Nations front and center through artwork in the lobby. Prestige suites on upper floors are the ones to book. Thanks to the roof extension, massive windows bring in the light in upper-floor rooms, and some have views of the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, which is just around the corner, as is Circular Quay, a key hub for the city. The staff is attentive and enhanced by various roles including Capella Culturists, a whole new level of concierge team, with members who can tailor customized activities during a stay, along with a program called Little Stars that focuses on kidfriendly projects and activities. Here, Carrie shares what not to miss in the neighborhood.

Fresh Start: “Indulge in a fabulous breakfast at Brasserie 1930 at Capella Sydney. The buffet has a stunning array of house-baked bread, pastries, fruit, cheese and sliced meats along with a full menu that includes fresh juices and healthier options.”

Stroll, Then Spa: “Go for a brisk walk down around Circular Quay, the Opera House and through the Sydney Botanical Gardens, all within a few blocks. Back at

the hotel, visit the Wellness Spa Auriga, located on the sixth floor, with its 20-meter swimming pool, state-of-the-art gym and Indigenous-inspired treatments invoking local traditions.”

A Perfect Lunch: “Walk to the nearby favorite of Sydneysiders, Mr. Wong. It is a perfect Cantonese restaurant with delicious dim sum in a chic setting transporting diners back to 1930s Shanghai.”

Art Moment: “See the newly completed addition of the Art Gallery of New South Wales, Sydney Modern, nearby. This ambitious project—both architecturally and as a cultural development—has transformed the art scene in Australia and is not to be missed.”

Shop Around: “Head to 25 Martin Place on Castlereagh Street, a recently regenerated luxury shopping precinct, which adds new depth to international shopping in Sydney, including Hermès, Dior, Valentino and Missoni. Plus, there is Alinka, a local favorite jewelry designer, among many others.”

Caffeinate: “Sydney is spoiled for choice when it comes to great coffee. Near the hotel, Regiment Café or Gumption by Coffee Alchemy are excellent options—or simply indulge in a heavenly flat white in the atrium lounge Aperture, adjacent to the lobby.”

Drink It In: “Maybe Sammy offers a glamorous twist on cocktails—the vibe feels very 1950s, but it’s within a cool setting in the Rocks district. Rooftop bar Aster makes you feel on top of the world. And the McRae Bar and lounge at Capella has a buzzy scene.”

Clockwise from top left: Capella Sydney’s Liberty Suite; the hotel’s Aperture lounge; Sydney Opera House; dim sum at Mr. Wong; at the Capella Sydney.

Don’t miss Capella’s Living Room, where guests are invited to a cocktail every afternoon during the Capella Rituals.”–Carrie Bellotti

Clockwise from top left: Courtesy Capella Sydney; Carrie Bellotti; Colin Heinrich courtesy Indagare, courtesy Mr. Wong, courtesy Capella Sydney

BEHIND THE SCENES: INDAGARE INDEX

WE RECENTLY RELEASED our annual list of the World’s Top Hotels, Indagare’s most booked and most coveted properties—the ones we send our members to (and return to ourselves) again and again. Just like our Trip Designers, they aim to deliver extraordinary experiences for every Indagare member, from Botswana to Bhutan, St. Barth’s to New Zealand and beyond.

What is the Indagare Index and what’s involved in the selection process?

“The Indagare Index is our curated hotel collection of hotels, resorts, yachts and safari and wilderness lodges around the world where Indagare has cultivated relationships to offer our members extra perks, amenities and VIP status. Our Index Adored Collection are the very top picks that earn the best feedback from our members and team visits. It is not just about ticking the boxes of criteria (those help, too) but the hotel experience—and how it makes us feel. It also celebrates the hard work of hoteliers and their teams. I have the best job in the world scouting properties and experiences for our members. I just finished five weeks working remotely from Italy, Thailand (where I revisited Index Adored favorite The Siam) and Laos. Earlier this year, I traveled to Hawaii, Whistler and the Galápagos. I am also headed to Japan, Turks and Caicos, France and Indonesia.”

What does a typical day working on the Index look like?

“We take so many factors into consideration over an entire year—like reading every piece of member feedback and meeting with our team each week to debrief on their travels and hotel experiences. When I’m not on the road scouting properties, I am attending conferences, reading travel news and staying in close touch with the property teams and industry

contacts. Selected properties are invited to submit applications, which our Trip Designers use to matchmake experiences for our members—as well as prepare them so they don’t miss out on anything.”

Tell us about your favorite hotels lately—and what makes them special?

Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco (Tuscany): “Even after so much glowing member feedback, I managed to be blown away—from a welcome basket filled with ingredients for perfect pasta, to an al fresco lunch and a picnic overlooking vineyards, to a fresh floral arrangement for an in-villa dinner with a surprise cake: this is what Italian dreams are made of.”

Amantaka (Luang Prabang, Laos): “I recently stayed here with my husband, and everything was about experiencing the cultural heart of the destination, like a Baci ceremony where we were blessed by a monk and elders in the community and a sunset cruise on the Mekong River, stopping at the Pak Ou caves, where they surprised us with a floral offering that the hotel team created.”

Venice Simplon-Orient-Express: “Traveling aboard this very special train felt like going back in time to the classic, romantic days of slow travel. Everyone was dressed in formal gowns and tuxedos, and we were serenaded by a live pianist and band in the bar car.”

INDAGARE INDEX PLUS Members who book with us receive preferential rates and amenities at 2,000-plus hotels, resorts and lodges that are part of the Indagare Index Plus program. (Properties in the Adored Collection are automatically part of this program as well.) See all our hotel reviews at indagare.com/index

Clockwise from above: Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco in Tuscany; the Index in progress; Indagare’s Sarah Minges aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express; Amantaka in Luang Prabang, Laos.

Our Industry Partnerships Manager Sarah Minges offers a glimpse of how the Index Adored Collection—and our hotel program—comes together.

Always in My Carry-On

A BOOK... that takes place in the destination—I love how Indagare shares reading and watching lists to inspire members before their trips.

SNACKS... but not just for me. I like to share treats with anyone who might help me along the way on a trip, like airline staff. These people are often blamed for circumstances outside their control, and even a small chocolate bar (mini Kinder Bueno bars are a favorite) go a long way in saying thank you.

STATIONERY... because being on an airplane is a perfect time to write handwritten letters or postcards to people you love.

Aerial view of the pool at Son Bunyola, Richard Branson’s newest hotel, a restored 16th-century estate in the Tramuntana Mountains (a UNESCO site) on Mallorca’s northwest coast. Photo courtesy Son Bunyola.

Another Side of Paradise

With its mountain villages and vineyards, bohemian enclaves and a slew of stylish new hotels (hello, Richard Branson), the interior of this Mediterranean island is a European insider’s hideaway. Mark Ellwood uncovers its considerable charms.

BLAME THE BRITS AND THE GERMANS for Mallorca’s image problem: they’ve long filled the beaches of Magaluf and Ballermann respectively and helped make the island a byword for the Mediterranean mass market—a place for cheap, boozy holidays amid good weather. Yet insiders have always known that beyond those beaches is a place of rolling hills, country estates and wineries, more Tuscany than Torremolinos. “Life here isn’t just about having a glass of wine with your feet in the sand,” says Paul Skevington, an expat Briton who runs Parietti, a Mallorquin cycle-clothing brand, “It’s about the outdoors and hiking, the stunning mountain ranges of the Tramuntana.”

Now, those hidden-away interiors are gaining a wider reputation among the well-traveled, in part thanks to a newfound convenience in reaching them. After a successful trial last year, United’s new seasonal non-stop flight from Newark to Mallorca’s capital will run from late May until the end of September this year; there are now three flights per week, up from twice weekly in 2022. GM of five-star finca Castell Son Claret, Bjorn Spaude, tells Indagare that almost one-quarter of his guests are now American, versus just five percent before that flight started. His property is one of a handful that have long discreetly operated in the interior; the Belmond-run La Residencia is another. But in 2023, two noteworthy properties will open, both inland (see Staying in Style), as well as a smaller boutique property, Hotel Corazon, owned and run by British fashion photographer Kate Bell. More will follow next year, including a Four Seasons revamp of the island’s first luxury property, Hotel Formentor, which dates back to 1929. It sits on its own 3,000-acre peninsula at the far northern tip, as distant from the crowds in Magaluf as is possible on the 43-mile-long island.

The appeal of Mallorca’s interior comes from its geography and history. The island’s largely flat, other than the Serra de Tramuntana, the mountain range which forms a backbone through its northern center; the hills earned UNESCO World Heritage status 12 years ago. They’re quilted with winding roads that lead to mountain villages, set among hillsides stepped as olive groves, forested with old-growth trees or planted with vines—Bodegas Rivas in Consell is the oldest vineyard in Spain. That rippling terrain is one reason that cycling is a major pastime here, and high-end homegrown brands like Paul Skevington’s Parietti have emerged in response to the rash of Lycra-loving visitors. Tour de France pros practice off-season here, and e-bikes are available at most hotels to offset the steepest climbs.

Mallorca views. Clockwise from left: A Son Bunyola terrace suite; poolside amid the mountains at Son Bunyola; a seaside lunch; strolling in the magical village of Deià.

Mallorca’s interiors were once prized holdings, per local historian and guide Pedro Oliver. When the Mediterranean was marauded by corsairs snatching up riches en route to northern Europe from the Silk Road, wealthy families moved from the coast for safety; indeed, land owned by the water was often deeded to daughters as a disdained dowry. No wonder, then, that it was easy and affordable for postwar developers to snag parcels and create package-holiday venues in Magaluf and around. Simultaneously, locals cherished interior plots, loath to leave them to development, allowing landlocked Mallorca to retain its authenticity. There was one unexpected side effect. “Now all the women are richer than the men,” Pedro Oliver laughs.

Among the many appealing hillside towns and villages in that interior, don’t miss the artsy enclave of Deià, where poet Robert Graves lived and worked; photographer Bell is opening her hotel there. Chicago-born Joanna Kuhne is a ceramicist who’s lived in Deià for more than 40 years—pick up a brightly colored bowl or two at her studio—and hike to the nearby town of Sóller, on an easy, three-hour-long trail with spectacular views over the water and the mountains.

Mallorca’s food is unfussy and rustic: even at the highest-end restaurants, there’s a casual ease. Chef Jordi Cantó at Sa Clastra, for example, will happily ditch his scheduled dishes to cook up traditional fritters made from the tiny fish known as caboti, if guests find them at the fish market. The wines may not be known beyond Mallorca’s reaches, but they’re impressively drinkable: try the bright, pineapply white, Torres de Canonge, from the Toni Gelabert vineyard just outside the second-largest settlement, Manacor, to the east. Try a snifter, too, of Flor d’Ametlla, the mild digestif made from almonds, another of Mallorca’s major crops.

Even if you make the interior your base, don’t let the crowds keep you from Palma: even there, the rowdy beaches can feel far away. It has the best shopping, of course. Look for Stick No Bills gallery, which has the license to reprint classic Braniff Airways posters—the ultimate nod to the jet set’s heyday—and drop into the Hammam am Andalus, too, a luxurious nod to the Arabic history of the Iberian Peninsula. Just don’t flinch if you hear the occasional British accent.

LET US DESIGN YOUR MALLORCA TRIP

Call us at 212-988-2611 or visit indagare.com/go to plan the Mallorca itinerary that’s best for you.

STAYING IN STYLE

A brand-new crop of boutique hotels has arrived in Mallorca’s interior. Here are two of the latest, plus a classic Indagare favorite:

SON BUNYOLA

Richard Branson’s latest project is an 810acre estate on the west coast, right in the heart of the Tramuntana range. The rooms here sit in two main buildings, the original finca and the Tafona, once home to the farm’s olive press. Book one of the triplex Tower suites there for the best perch. The reinvention of the property extends to the grounds, where ancient olive trees have been revived and forest areas replanted.

SON NET

The 31-room hilltop hotel overlooking the village of Puigpunyent has been gutrenovated by its new operators, the same team behind Finca Cortesin. Standout is room 21, with an enormous private terrace and a showstopping floor, tiled in handmade azure blue and white. Book dinner at the hotel’s easy-to- overlook answer to an al fresco private dining room, a terrace concealed behind a plant-wreathed archway, in front of the restaurant, and don’t miss its new threestory subterranean spa.

PLUS, A LONGTIME FAVORITE: CAP ROCAT

Indagare books many travelers at the uber sleek Cap Rocat, perched on the Bay of Palma de Mallorca, which seamlessly integrates its 19th-century history as a former fortress and chapel with a stunning 21st-century design aesthetic. Bustling Palma is just 15 minutes away, but the property remains utterly serene and feels removed from city life.

A lounge at Son Bunyola. Photo courtesy Son Bunyola.

MALLORCA: INSIDER PICKS

Born in Palma, Mallorca, Jacinto Solivellas de Oleza can trace his roots here back to the 13th century, when his ancestors arrived with King James I of Aragon after the conquest of the island; it is nearly impossible to find a Mallorca insider with deeper roots. After 20 years in investment banking, he took a “leap of faith and dove into interior decorating,” and is now working on projects in the U.K., Paris, Madrid and Mallorca—and also tries to visit the island every four to six weeks. While on the island, Jacinto stays at his family’s 13th-century country estate in the mountains of Tramuntana, but he knows every hotel intimately. Here are some of his top island recommendations. Follow Jacinto at @growingthoughts and @casa_alchymia. For his complete Mallorca guide, visit indagare.com.

PALMA’S TOP RESTAURANTS

“Celler Pages is a quintessential Mallorcan tavern. Bar Bosch, for savoring a llagosta, a typical Palma sandwich made with llonguet bread. Canela is a tiny spot on the town’s most beautiful street with simple, uncomplicated cuisine. El Txoko de Martin (left), by Spanish chef Martin Berasategui, is one of my favorites and great for families and young people.”

STAYING IN PALMA

“The best hotels are outside of Palma; however, here are two I’d recommend: Hotel Sant Francesc (right), the best in town is a beautiful house right in the old town. The interiors are elegant (if a bit boring) but well-appointed. Can Bordoy has Palma’s best garden—truly whimsical.”

AFTERNOON BREAK “ In Palma, Hotel Cappuccino has a lovely terrace and a delicious Barman Special, with strawberries, banana and a hint of mint. Can Joan de S’aigo, for the best ice cream and ensaimadas (pastries). Can Miquel, for ice cream— specifically toasted almond. Fornet de la Soca is an absolute marvel. Their pastries come from centuries-old recipes.”

WHERE TO STAY: SIX FAVORITES

Belmond La Residencia: “The island’s best hotel. Magical views, food, service, a rugged beach club; the décor is unpretentiously chic.”

Grand Hotel Son Net: “This used to be my great-great-grandparents’ summer house and is newly refurbished by Lorenzo Castillo—very chic.”

Ca’s Xorc: “A gem in the mountains on the way from Deià to Sóller.” Son Brull: “A grand hotel outside Pollença in a 16thcentury monastery (pictured right). Spartan yet beautiful interiors and an excellent restaurant.”

Can Simoneta: “My favorite on the east coast. Everything is sublime: the house, the views, the gardens and the quiet interiors.”

Finca Serena: “If one likes cycling, this is the place—on Tramuntana’s lowest slopes.”

TOP DAY TRIP

“ I love the Serra de Tramuntana—from Puerto Andratx to Cabo Formentor, either by boat or by car. If you drive, stop in the delightful villages: Estellencs, Banyalbufar, Valldemossa, Deià, Llucalcari, Sóller, Fornalutx, Biniaraix, the mountain lakes, Lluc and its monastery, Pollensa and Formentor.“

DINING OUTSIDE OF PALMA

“Umayol, in Cala San Vicente by chef Santi Taura, for exquisite arroces (rice dishes) and fish. In Deià, Cas Patró March is the chicest place in Mallorca, right on the water and known for their gambas de Sóller. Bodega Barahona

Casa Manolo (left) in Ses Salines: caldereta, arroces, ensaimada!”

TOP SHOPS

PALMA

For Espadrilles

Alpargatería La Concepción (above) For Homewares

Bazaar For Delicatessen

“La Pajarita is fantastic. Opened more than a century ago, it also has sensational décor.”

For Fashion

“

Piluca Osaba is the best shop for caftans, jewelry and cashmere shawls. La Principal is the best clothing store with a je ne sais quoi touch. Their own brand, Mews, is sensational. Cortana, an absolutely divine new shop in Calle Montenegro for dresses.”

For Unique Treasures

“La Pecera carries anything from furniture (designed by my friend Marlene) to vintage finds and leather goods by Carmina, fourth-generation shoemakers. Visit the shop in Palma or the factory in Inca.”

BEYOND PALMA

“Pickett’s House, in Deià, is a treasure trove for decoration junkies. La Luna delicatessen in Sóller is the island’s best food shop. Con Alma Design in Binissalem, for furniture made of olive tree wood.”

The Spaces

A traditional matcha tea ceremony is performed for guests in the lobby of the Hotel the Mitsui in Kyoto, Japan. Photo courtesy Hotel the Mitsui.

With fully reopened borders (and the Year of the Rabbit) ushering in a wave of prosperity and productivity, Japan is once again one of the world’s most sought-after travel destinations. Elizabeth Harvey reports.

AMELODIC TINKLING of chimes plays over the loudspeaker. “Departing Tokyo Station, direction Shin-Osaka. Next station, Shinagawa!” In perfect sync, the singsong tones filling my car on the Shinkansen conclude, and the train pulls out of the station, slowly at first, but rapidly gathering speed. I wiggle up in my seat to peer out the window at the edges of Tokyo fading away in the lavender light of dusk. A thrill of childish wonder tingles through me, as I feel the mounting velocity pull at my center of gravity. How fast will we go?

The Shinkansen moves at nearly 200 miles per hour, making it one of the swiftest trains in the world. The ride is surprisingly smooth. I will arrive in Kyoto in just two hours, after a 14.5-hour flight from New York City. Weary but gratified at having journeyed a great distance, I unpack the still-cold Sapporo I purchased on the platform. Snap. Fizz. I take a sip and marvel at these two metal-encased feats of engineering.

With its fast trains and impeccable bento boxes and cities bursting with flashing lights and color, Japan has become an object of collective obsession in the United States, one born out of the cultural collisions caused by World War II and steadily gathering force in the decades since. The iconography we’ve built up around this island nation is so vivid as to elicit gasps of joy or jealousy whenever travel plans are mentioned—and everyone is going, lately, from my own friends and colleagues to Kim Kardashian and Harry Styles. Three years’ absence, it seems, has only made our obsession stronger.

After a few days of exploring on the other side of the world, I quickly realized that many of the idealized Japanese scenes we most ardently seek are, in fact, quite true to reality—and easily found: An omakase dinner that is closer to a religious experience than a culinary one, with hungry, hushed devotees encircling the high priest as he sharpens his knife above a gleaming, fatty salmon. A tiny wooden dive bar, packed

Clockwise from top left: Courtesy Bulgari Hotel Tokyo; by Elizabeth Harvey; by Elizabeth Harvey; courtesy Bulgari Hotel Tokyo; by Elizabeth Harvey

A Japan Glossary

Omakase: Tasting-menu-style dining concept, which means “to leave oneself in the hands of the chef”

Karōshi: “Death by overwork”

Kintsugi: The art of repairing broken ceramics by filling the cracks with gold leaf

Ikebana: The art of flower-arranging, in which negative space is just as considered as the objects

Geta: Traditional Japanese clogs

Ryokan: Traditional Japanese inn, usually featuring tatami mat décor and communal thermal baths

Maiko and Geiko: Collectively known by Westerners as “Geisha,” Geikos are professional entertainers trained in ancient Japanese fine arts and etiquette; Maikos are apprentice geikos

Evening views from the Bulgari Hotel Tokyo. Clockwise from top left: Machiya architecture in Kyoto’s historic Gion district; a kimono at HOSOO in Kyoto; the pool at the Bulgari Hotel Tokyo; the author in front of Kyoto’s Yasaka Pagoda.

with salarymen staving off karōshi, which remains spotless and orderly despite the overflow of whiskey. A perfectly coiffed businesswoman in pumps, an elegant maiden perched upon wooden geta, the silks of her kimono shimmering, and a punky teen in fishnets rising above the crowd in five-inch platform boots—all gathered at the same crosswalk, patiently waiting for the light to turn green, and not moving a second sooner.

In collecting these postcard moments, I also quickly realized that what makes Japan so enthralling—what draws us all so fervently to visit—is not only its reverence for specialization and tradition. It’s also the strength that’s afforded by the Japanese to their social contract. There is a real sense of mutual obligation and accountability that governs the captivating dance of daily life in Japan, which imbues even the smallest mundanities with a greater beauty and dignity than we’re accustomed to at home.

But for all the things I did grasp while traveling in Japan—the moments of victory where a box was checked, a photo was snapped, a realization was made—there was so much more that eluded me. For every perfectly packaged experience and expectation that matched reality, there were so many more puzzles and paradoxes—gaps in the narrative, areas of the map that remain unmarked: A Zen monk in traditional robes who reveals himself to be somewhat of an Instagram influencer (@revtakazen) who spends half the year in Portland, Oregon, and speaks flawless English with a hint of Cali-surfer twang. A display of sake at Kyoto’s Nishiki Market featuring labels with sweet watercolor bunnies alongside others with inky, snarling skulls. A garish poster of sexualized

manga in a storefront that shares a wall with a centuries-old Buddhist temple, a sacred enclave of incense and flowers within a skyrise city.

In Japan, the spaces between tend to be the most profound. It’s a guiding principle of its ancient arts, from kintsugi to ikebana, and it’s a useful principle for the Japan traveler. A longtime resident of Nara, writer Pico Iyer perhaps best captured the phenomenon: “I’ve been living in western Japan for more than 32 years and, to my delight, I know far less than when I arrived.” Every visit to Japan begs another. Next stop, Shinagawa.

Whether you’re planning a first or fifth visit to Japan—or you’re still in dreaming mode—these are the places to have on your radar, with new developments from the post-pandemic tourism boom. Visit indagare.com to get all of Elizabeth’s recommendations from her adventure along the Tokaido Corridor.

WHERE TO STAY

Like many other culture capitals, Tokyo and Kyoto are experiencing a hotel renaissance. My first stop in Kyoto was The Shinmonzen, a nine-room boutique gem over 10 years

INSIDER KYOTO: CITY FAVES

in the making from Paddy McKillen, the owner of Château La Coste in Provence. The Shinmonzen offers an intimate, handcrafted experience akin to staying at the private town house of an impeccably stylish friend—with museum-grade art, sleek nods to ryokan heritage and a restaurant by JeanGeorges Vongerichten, opened this March. In the historic Gion district—the territory of the maiko and geiko, as well as antiques lovers and shoppers—and discreetly camouflaged among the neighborhood’s dark-wood machiya architecture, the hotel seamlessly combines past and present, thanks to architect Tadao Ando and interior designer Rémi Tessier. Like sister property Villa La Coste, The Shinmonzen showcases work by Louise Bourgeois, Damien Hirst, Hiroshi Sugimoto, Gerhard Richter and Charlotte Perriand—and a standout is the sequin-and-embroidery mural by Vietnamese artist Tia-Thuy Nguyen in the dining room. The canvas is a sparkling burst of hot pink, orange, yellow and red—an idealized complement to the delicate explosion of flavors one is usually experiencing while contemplating it (I am still dreaming of the melting ribbons of tuna, twirled in a nest like spaghetti, atop wasabi and radish… and the cured egg yolks, wedged between thinly sliced crispy bread and generously heaped with caviar—paired with juicy Hokkaido white wines). Other highlights include the small spa, which

“One of my favorite places to dine with friends is Coppie. The restaurant owners are lovely. Yamahon gallery is a great place to find interior pieces. Komyoin Temple is beautiful and the garden was designed by Shigemori Mirei, who is one of my favorite landscape artists.”

SARA AIKO, FOUNDER OF CURATED KYOTO

Park Hyatt Kyoto. Opposite, from top: A guest room at the Tokyo Edition, Toranomon; a course at Toki, Hotel the Mitsui’s Japanese-French restaurant.

Mr. Hakuya Noguchi, a fourth-generation gold leaf artisan, at his home and studio in Kyoto

specializes in Reiki treatments; the option to choose between a Western-style bed or a traditional Japanese futon on tatami mats; the oversize hinoki cypress soaking tubs; the coffee menu by world-class siphon coffee master Iori Yahashi; and the private balconies suspended over the Shirakawa River, where resident cranes and ducks can be spotted taking a dip.

Next was Hotel the Mitsui, a larger but equally soulful and serene property on the western side of the Kamo River, facing the UNESCO site Nijo Castle. Originally the private home of the wealthy Mitsui family, the now 161-room property preserves details that date back as far as the 17th century. Interiors by Hong Kong designer André Fu (behind The Upper House, as well as Villa La Coste) and Japanese architect Akira Kuryu create an atmosphere that is subtle and soothing, with inventive touches like a hallway of wooden arches mimicking Kyoto’s famous fire-red Fushimi Inari shrine. The hotel emphasizes Japanese wellness practices, including connecting with the seasons and the senses. There is an airy courtyard garden (ideal for meditation classes) and dedicated spaces for a matcha tea ceremony or a maiko performance. Do not miss a meal at Toki, an innovative restaurant by chef Tetsuya Asano (who cut his teeth at the Ritz Paris), or a swim in the heated pools of the subterranean onsen spa, which draw from thermal waters discovered over 3,000 feet below the hotel.

In Tokyo, I paid a visit to the new Edition, occupying the 31st to 36th floors of a skyscraper in the up-and-coming Toranomon neighborhood (located between luxe Marunouchi and chic Roppongi). Thanks to the artistry of architect Kengo Kuma—and Ian Schrager’s lifelong passion for Japanese aesthetics—the property has an authentic sense of place, helped by spectacular views of Tokyo Tower. Guest rooms are both peaceful and highly functional. The main draw of the hotel is

Local Libations

the dining program, which includes a photogenic Sky Garden, a speakeasy-style cocktail lounge, Gold Bar and The Jade Room restaurant, featuring British-Japanese tasting menus by chef Tom Aikens, of Michelin -starred London restaurants Pied à Terre and Muse.

Also generating buzz is the new Bulgari Tokyo—opened this April in the Yaesu district (in walking distance of Nihombashi and Ginza), offering 98 rooms and suites, a large spa and an eight-seat sushi restaurant by Japanese chef Kenji Gyoten (who was awarded three Michelin stars at Sushi Gyoten in Fukuoka)— and the Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Otemachi, across from the Imperial Palace, with Jean-Michel Gathy interiors and Est, a French-Japanese open-kitchen restaurant from chef Guillaume Bracaval. It won its first Michelin star last year. Also of note: The Park Hyatt Tokyo—the setting of Sofia Coppola’s cult classic Lost in Translation—will close in May 2024 for a full, yearlong renovation, for the hotel’s 30th anniversary. I managed a final Suntory toast to Bob and Charlotte at the New York Bar—and, for now, it remains the same haven for a traveler in an unfamiliar city, suspended in the air and suspended in time.

WHERE TO EAT

With 72 recognized micro-seasons and a laundry list of carefully observed mores, dining out in Japan remains one of the most intimidating aspects of traveling there. It’s essential to come armed with a list of local recommendations. Two of the best I was given were Sakuragawa in Kyoto (a 10-seat, no-frills, classic kaiseki masterpiece) and The Washin in Tokyo (an immaculate multicourse tasting experience in a contemporary yet warm atmosphere). But it’s just as essential to have an open mind and a willingness to search and stumble. If you summon up the courage to poke your head behind the curtains that hang over the doors of most traditional eateries—which,

From sake to cocktails, here are a few of the top places for a drink.

TOKYO Kamiya Bar, opened in the 1800s, is a local legend said to be the oldest Western-style bar in Tokyo.•Gen Yamamoto offers a reservation-only, seasonal, lowABV cocktail tasting experience by Mr. Yamamoto. KYOTO An exploration of “liquid cuisine,” the cocktail experience at Nokishita 711 (left) includes multiple courses and snacks.•Look for the bumblebee sign, and you’re in the right place at Bee’s Knees, a Prohibition-inspired speakeasy that’s among Kyoto’s most popular bars.•Fushimi is one of Japan’s oldest sake-brewing districts. Enjoy a tasting after exploring the history of sake at Gekkeikan Okura Sake Museum (and the brewery, founded in 1637).

FAVORITE FINDS: SHOPPING IN KYOTO

Konjaku Nishimura, a vintage textiles shop in Gion, specializes in silk kimonos (right).•Sophora is a beautifully curated blown-glass and ceramics gallery.• Galerie Tazawa is an antiques gallery with Japanese and international treasures. • Visit Tokinoha Ceramic Studio, a pottery workshop (bottom left) and boutique on the city’s eastern side.•A stunning textiles and kimono atelier founded in 1688, HOSOO now produces contemporary silk clothing, accessories and home décor (bottom center and right), in addition to traditional pieces.•Hakuya Noguchi Studio is the home and gallery of a quirky father-son duo practicing the ancient art of gold-leaf painting and textile weaving.

maddeningly, make it difficult to assess what lies within, without making yourself known—and, once seated, surrender yourself to the experience, you might just be rewarded with the best meal of your life.

Traditional Japanese cuisine is UNESCO-protected, but the influx of international chefs who are heading east is evidence of a growing appetite for invention. In Tokyo’s Shibuya, the 2020-launched, Mexican-Japanese-themed Rubia just appointed Cesar Ávila Flores, the former souschef of Mexico City’s Pujol (a World’s 50 Best restaurant), to reinvent its tasting menu. Two of Kyoto’s hottest tables, Monk and Cenci , are helmed by Japanese chefs—Yoshihiro Imai and Ken Sakamoto, respectively—but serve Italian-Japanese cuisine, including wood-fired pizza (with such toppings as Kujo negi leeks, chrysanthemum and shiitake mushrooms). Also in Kyoto, the one-Michelin-starred Lurra brings the international perspective of

American-Japanese chef (and Noma alum) Jacob Kear to local ingredients that are foraged, fermented and grilled. And at the Ace Hotel Kyoto—another Kengo Kuma project, opened in 2020 and ideal for digital nomads seeking a trendy home base—René Redzepi himself just concluded a sold-out, 10-week Noma pop-up.

SEE & DO: ARTS & CULTURE

The Fukuda Art Museum recently opened in Kyoto’s Arashiyama district, with nearly 2,000 pieces from the Edo period to modernity, and a focus on Kyoto painters. The collection was created by Fukuda Yoshitaka, a self-made entrepreneur, to thank the public for his good fortune. Also in Kyoto, the historic Kyocera Museum of Art reopened after a three-year renovation by architects Jun Aoki and Tezzo Nishizawa. And in Tokyo, later this fall, the famous teamLab Borderless digital art museum will reopen, in a new building in Azabudai Hills in Minato,

just minutes from Tokyo Tower (which now offers Japan’s largest “eSports park” for virtual reality games). Azabudai is envisioned by the same group behind cool-kid Roppongi Hills and is expected to officially debut in October. It will also become home to Aman Residences and the very first Janu property, Aman’s “little sister” brand. New pedestrian areas are being developed all over Tokyo, from the Mizumachi Waterfront to Miyashita Park and the Bonus Track shopping area in trendy Shimokitazawa. And while Kyoto’s traditional crafts are some of the very best treasures to hunt for, Tokyo’s latest retail activations in Ginza—from the new Muji Hotel to the Jun Aoki– and Peter Marino–designed Louis Vuitton flagship—do warrant a visit for snapping photos, browsing and a quick bite. And, finally, Kengo Kuma’s Japan National Stadium is now now open for tours through March 2024.

LET US DESIGN YOUR JAPAN TRIP

Interested in traveling to Japan this year or next? Contact your Trip Designer to start planning. Plus: Inquire about our upcoming Indagare Journey group trip at travel.indagare.com/magazine-japan

The pavilion at Hotel the Mitsui in Kyoto. Clockwise from right: Traditional beanpaste sweets; the bar at the Bulgari Hotel Tokyo; the streets of Gion, in Kyoto.

Sailing Narragansett Bay. Right, from top: Castle Hill Inn; dining at The Vanderbilt, An Auberge Resort.

The New Gilded Age

Think you’ve seen Newport? Think again. The summer center of the American Gilded Age is back in the spotlight with new hotels, restaurants, breweries, spas, plus buzzy real estate acquisitions driving interest. Annie Fitzsimmons assesses the scene.

LIKE DOWNTON ABBEY before it—which inspired a new love for England’s grand, stately homes like Highclere Castle—HBO’s The Gilded Age has brought forth a resurgence of interest in Newport, Rhode Island. During the actual Gilded Age, a period of immense American economic and social evolution from around 1870 to 1910, Newport was an important outpost for the nouveaux riches, with glittering, golden mansions built to show off as much wealth as possible for families like the Astors and Vanderbilts. (John D. Rockefeller preferred upstate New York.) Season one of the show was filmed at many of these mansions, which are run by the Preservation Society of Newport County.

Long before the Gilded Age, Newport was founded in 1639 on religious freedom by Roger Williams and Anne Hutchinson, bringing a diversity of thought and culture that still exists today. It’s consistently voted among the top small towns in America to live in and to visit—historic and cultural attractions like the Touro Synagogue, the oldest in the U.S., bring people from all over the world.

“There is a whole new interest in coming to see the American castles of Newport,” says Evan Smith, who has been CEO of Discover Newport for 35 years. “Once upon a time, travelers might have said, I’ve seen The Breakers, so I’ve seen it all. But the Preservation Society has done a great job of modernizing the tour experiences to be more experiential and to

ERIN MCGINN COURTESY DISCOVER NEWPORT; OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM TOP: COURTESY CASTLE HILL INN; COURTESY AUBERGE RESORTS

tell stories in different ways.” Ten of the Preservation Society mansions are also now open year-round.

A slate of new hotel openings in the last few years have given visitors new options, joining old favorites like Castle Hill Inn (see Where to Stay). And with splashy real estate acquisitions, there is also renewed interest in Newport for second, third or fourth homes. “There might be a certain saturation point in places like the Hamptons, Nantucket or Martha’s Vineyard,” says Smith. “People are saying that the greater Newport area has what they’re looking for. It’s happening on the whole Rhode Island coast, with $10 million, $20 million, $30 million properties being sold.”

You could point to Taylor Swift buying High Watch (formerly known as Holiday House) in Westerly in 2013 as the start of a new Rhode Island real estate obsession in and around Newport—from Watch Hill and Weekapaug to Little Compton and Tiverton. In 2021, one of Newport’s most magnificent private homes sold to billionaire Steven Schwarzman—the Neoclassical oceanfront Miramar, with interiors inspired by the Palace of Versailles, was completed by Titanic survivor Eleanor Elkins Widener, whose husband and eldest son died on the fateful voyage. They had been on a scouting trip in Paris to find furnishings and artwork for their new home being built.

Another sign that the ultra-wealthy have rediscovered Newport? The opulence on display in the harbor, with some of the most impressive yachts in the world coming to Newport Shipyard. “The inventory of yachts in Newport Harbor has gone up multiple notches,” observes Smith. He recommends visiting the International Yacht Restoration School, founded in 1993, to learn and watch the art of wooden boat restoration.

For a town of around 25,000 year-round residents, there is a lot going on. The Preservation Society, one of the most well-funded such organizations in the U.S., has introduced marquee summer events, like the Newport Flower Festival, at the end of June, and the Newport Food & Wine Festival, from September 22 to 24 this year. Two of summer’s most beloved sports—tennis and sailing—each have world-class museums here: the International Tennis Hall of Fame and the Sailing Museum. For car and art enthusiasts, there are two special institutions showcasing private collections—the Audrain Auto Museum (where Jay Leno is very involved) and the Newport Car Museum. Summer visitors may also want to look at the schedule for newportFILM, with screenings of documentaries at outdoor locales on Aquidneck Island.

I am a huge tennis fan and my favorite thing about Newport is the International Tennis Hall of Fame. I play indoor tennis in the winter and the grass courts in the summer. My favorite event is when the Hall of Fame Open comes in July, where the top tennis players in the world play in a small, intimate theater.”

~EVAN SMITH, CEO OF DISCOVER NEWPORT (INDAGARE MEMBER SINCE 2017)

From top: courtesy The Chanler at Cliff Walk; Corey Favino, courtesy Discover Newport; Inset: Andrew Egan, courtesy Ala von Auersperg

NEWPORT INSIDER: Ala von Auersperg

DESIGNER AND PHILANTHROPIST

Ala von Auersperg grew up as Princess Annie-Laurie von Auersperg and has spent time in Newport since she was 12 years old. Her love of fashion began as a child, visiting Paris and the couture houses with her mother, Sunny Crawford von Bülow. After starting painting lessons later in life—and a push from a friend—she was inspired to kick off her own fashion line by printing her paintings onto dresses (available at alavonauersperg.com and in shops in NYC, Charleston and Palm Beach). Today, she is often in Newport with her family (including five grandchildren) and is the cofounder of the National Center for Victims of Crime and the Brain Trauma Foundation.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

“Some of my favorite historic houses in Newport are The Elms, Isaac Bell House and Hunter House on the Point.”

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS

“The Clarke Cooke House is a staple, and TSKThames Street Kitchen has the best steak you will ever eat.”

FOR A FIRST-TIME VISITOR

“Marble House is emblematic of the Gilded Age.”

FOR RETURN VISITORS

“Trinity Church, the Touro Synagogue (the first synagogue in the U.S.) and The Redwood Library (the first subscription library).”

FAVORITE HOTELS BEYOND NEWPORT

“Château Saint-Martin, in Vence; Le Bristol, in Paris; and Villa San Michele, just outside Florence.”

FAMILY GETAWAY, BEYOND NEWPORT

“Antigua. My family loves to gather at our home.”

The Chanler at Cliff Walk. Below: One of Newport’s downtown wharves.

NEWPORT INSIDER: Summertime Family Fun

Charles Manice has been lucky to spend summers in Newport since he was born, as his family has been here for more than 100 years. He met his wife Melissa while watching their younger brothers row at the Henley Royal Regatta, and they have spent summers together in Newport for the past 20 years, now with their four children. Charles has his own law firm as a trust and estates wealth-planning attorney with offices in New York and Florida, and Melissa has a PhD in clinical research with a background in health-care technology. They are based in Larchmont, New York.

FAVORITE ACTIVITIES

“Newport is breathtaking from the water. Take a harbor cruise with America’s Cup Charters or an Amazing Grace charter. If you can dock in Jamestown, eat at Beech or Tallulah’s Taqueria. Fly a kite at Brenton Point and walk Ocean Drive. Do the Cliff Walk and grab lobster rolls at First Beach. Pick berries and go to Sweet Berry Farm. Walk around Bowen’s Wharf and Bannister’s Wharf.”

THEIR GO-TO RESTAURANTS

“Step back in time at White Horse Tavern; dinner at Cabana, Bar’Cino or the Clarke Cooke House (the signature dessert is a ‘snowball in hell’). Clam chowder from The Black Pearl or Midtown Oyster Bar.”

A PERFECT DAY STARTS AT THE CLIFF WALK

“Bike to breakfast or brunch at Belle’s Café or incredible coffee at Nitro Bar. Beach and tennis at Bailey’s Beach Club (the Vanderbilts and Astors were members). Stroll Bellevue Avenue and visit the International Tennis Hall of Fame (book a grass court). Stop in at CK Bradley and Bellevue Kids. Have cocktails and oysters at Castle Hill at sunset.”

FOR FIRST-TIME VISITORS

“The Cliff Walk, plus a historic mansion tour with a reservation for afternoon tea at the Chinese Tea House at Marble House.”

FOR RETURN VISITORS

“Drinks on the terrace at the Chanler Inn or at Forty 1 North. Bodhi Spa is a local spa with great massages and a hydrotherapy circuit, right on Thames Street. NewportFILM has amazing film showings on beautiful properties throughout Newport.”

Did You Know? As an interesting contrast to Gilded Age architecture, take a walking tour of the historic district of downtown Newport, with a high concentration of colonial wooden houses, many saved by Doris Duke.

NEWPORT HOTEL SCENE: WHERE TO STAY

CASTLE HILL INN

Set on 40 acres with views of Newport Bridge, this classic Relais & Châteaux property merges the feel of a summer mansion with a New England farm.

THE CHANLER

Overlooking Easton’s Beach on the edge of Newport’s famous Cliff Walk, this is a grand country-house-style hotel.

THE VANDERBILT, AN AUBERGE RESORT

For those who want to stay in a Georgian-style mansion within walking distance of restaurants and sights, this former historic residence, built in 1909 by a Vanderbilt, is the right choice.

FORTY 1 NORTH

This marina-front boutique hotel in Newport is a chic option for those looking for a bit of South Beach-style buzz.

THE BRENTON HOTEL

Opened in summer 2020, this center-of-town property still feels brand-new, with yacht-inspired interiors. Visit the beloved Brick Alley Pub nearby.

HAMMETTS HOTEL

A stone’s throw from popular Bowen’s Wharf, this is an elegant and low-key property.

For more on where to stay on the Rhode Island Coast, go to Indagare.com

The Vanderbilt, An Auberge Resort. Right: The Chanler at Cliff Walk’s Renaissance suite. Below: Castle Hill Inn.

FLORENCE, EVER FASHIONABLE

Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley crafts an itinerary with Laudomia Pucci in Tuscany’s evolving culture capital, finding new artisans and lesserknown treasure troves.

Pucci Power

The new Emilio Pucci Heritage Hub, located in the Palazzo Pucci in Florence, combines the fashion brand’s archives with an innovative incubator program for special fashion projects.

Opposite: Duomo views.

GETTING AWAY

from the crowds has emerged as one of this year’s travel themes. And of all the cities often cited as examples of being loved into congestion, Florence tops the list of places people put off visiting because they worry it will be impossible to avoid throngs. In fact, when I returned to Europe just as it reopened to Americans in June 2021, I headed to Florence because I had avoided it for years, fearing crowds. Its treasures, though, from its terraced gardens and magical evening light on the Arno to its proud palazzos and tiny shops brimming with handmade crafts, make it a place that enchants as much on a first visit as on a 15th. So, smitten again by Tuscany’s capital, I returned this spring to collaborate with Laudomia Pucci, the former CEO of fashion brand Emilio Pucci and founder of the Emilio Pucci Heritage Hub, whose family has inhabited Palazzo Pucci at Via Pucci 6 for more than 500 years, since before the Medicis arrived.

As we crafted an itinerary together that celebrates the families—like hers and others that have laid the foundation of the city’s artistic and social traditions—we also explored how Florence continues to evolve. Modern art foundations and patrons are embracing the city’s rich heritage while bringing inventive exhibits and collections into its ancient buildings. Creative young chefs, artists and designers are coming to study the past while constantly innovating. By focusing a visit on the new creators and lesser-known treasure troves, it is possible to go off the beaten paths and revel in Florence’s unique fabulousness. Read on for some of our favorite spots and to learn how to join our Insider Journey in October.

Golden Age

One of the world’s top museums, the Uffizi Gallery features the greatest collection of Italian Renaissance art, and the building, begun by Giorgio Vasari in 1560, was commissioned as magistrate offices by Cosimo de Medici. Below: A Ponte Vecchio sunset.

“Nowhere in the world is there a concentration of arts and culture so intense and inspirational as in Florence.”

—LAUDOMIA PUCCI, whose family has lived here since the 1300s

Join Us: Florence Insider Journey

With Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley, explore how the great families of Florence laid the city’s cultural foundations and are continuing to shape its evolution. Spend time with Laudomia Pucci during a visit to their 600-year-old palazzo, as well as at her family villa in Tuscany. Other special experiences include tours of top collections, meetings with local artisans and art collectors and invitations to other family palazzos. Go to indagare.com/ insiderjourneys for details.

Up on the Roof

One of the city’s newest restaurants, Angel Rooftop at the Hotel Calimala.

A Twist on Tradition

Florence has long attracted expats: American Julia Berger, who founded the handmade linen boutique Julia B. Casa, has embraced the city’s artisan traditions and added her own twist. Her shop, at 33R Via dei Fossi, is one of many that will welcome our Insider Journey guests.

History as Inspiration

“Florence is a city that flaunts its history but isn’t buried by it,” notes Melissa Bradley. “And many of its oldest families are the ones who are committed to keeping its tradition of innovation alive.”

Florentine Treasures

One of the world’s great antiques dealers, Stefano Bardini, who died in 1922, donated his former showroom and home to the city of Florence as a museum. The building and the treasures within it are some of Florence’s lesserknown cultural highlights.

Style File: Laudomia Pucci

In her own words: Hear about Laudomia Pucci’s latest passion project, the Emilio Pucci Heritage Hub; what makes Florence such a unique Italian city; the evolution of fashion; and what we will explore on our fall Insider Journey to Florence on Melissa’s podcast Passport to Everywhere: Laudomia Pucci wherever you listen to podcasts.

Here are some of Laudomia’s Florence favorites:

Iginio Massari: A wonderful new pastry shop and tea salon. “If Paris has Ladurée and Milan has Marchesi, this is Florence’s similar outpost.”

Palazzo Strozzi: The contemporary art museum, of which she is a patron, brings new perspectives to an historic palazzo and will have a major Anish Kapoor show in the fall.

Parapharmacia Antica Munstermann: An ancient pharmacy, not far from the Ponte Vecchio, that produces its own natural creams and cures. Laudomia recommends the eye and hand creams in particular.

Hotel Savoy: The Rocco Forte hotel is not far from Via Pucci; its lobby and restaurant feature an exclusive Pucci print celebrating Florence monuments.

Emilio Pucci Heritage Hub: Our Trip Designers can arrange visits to the family archives and fashion hub (not open to the public). Contact indagare.com for details.

A Taste of Tuscany

Atelier de Nerli is one of many neighborhood restaurants in Florence that specializes in traditional Tuscan cuisine.

Arts Patron

Laudomia Pucci (bottom), whose family traces its Florentine roots back more than 600 years, patronizes many of the city’s traditional artisans, including silversmith Brandimarte.

“Florence is a city of the world. What I’m trying to do is to make sure that whatever we do and say is relevant to the world.”

—LAUDOMIA PUCCI

Call of

On an adventure of a lifetime to New Zealand with her family in tow, Eliza Scott Harris revels in the delights of the land down under—hill walking, helicopter rides, super lodges and natural wonders.

the Wild

Lake Erskine in Fiordland National Park

Photo by Josh Lauder.

HOP OUT HERE,” our New Zealand guide

Doug Beech said as our helicopter alit on the sandy shore of the Tasman Sea. “It’s time to catch our lunch.” Curious, we stepped out onto the beach and surveyed our surroundings. My husband and I and two of our teenage sons were on the third day of our family trip to New Zealand. We had spent the morning exploring the southwest coast of the South Island in a wilderness area called Fiordland, a UNESCO World Heritage site, on our way toward Milford Sound, the iconic glacier-carved fjord. We had walked through a stretch of moss-carpeted rainforest, among bird calls, ducking under giant tree ferns to see long-whiskered seals lounging on rocks amid the sound of surf. We had flown over braided rivers and swooped past granite cliffs and glaciers.

Doug attached a long rope with a big hook on the end to the bottom of the helicopter. As we stood by, the heli sped off, dipped the hook into the ocean, and miraculously managed to snag a wooden trap holding spiny rock lobsters. Our Minaret Station pilot Blair headed back with the trap dangling and spinning below. We loaded the lobsters into a cooler, boarded, then took off again. “Around the next corner,” Doug told Blair as we rose up through the Southern Alps. “That lake there.” He

MY TRIP AT A GLANCE

Where I Went: ON THE SOUTH ISLAND: MINARET STATION, WANAKA; MATAKAURI, QUEENSTOWN; THE HOMESTEAD AT FLOCKHILL, LAKE PEARSON. ON THE NORTH ISLAND: PARK HYATT AUCKLAND; KAURI CLIFFS, BAY OF ISLANDS; TE ARAI, MANGAWHAI; THE BOATSHED, WAIHEKE ISLAND

When I Went: MARCH 2023

When You Should Go: SEPTEMBER THROUGH APRIL

Travel Companions: MY HUSBAND AND TWO SONS, AGED 15 AND 19

Length of Stay: TWO WEEKS

How I Went: AIR NEW ZEALAND NOW HAS DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM NEW YORK JFK TO AUCKLAND (16 HOURS)

ELIZA HARRIS IS THE COO AND A COFOUNDER OF INDAGARE. THIS WAS HER SECOND TIME SCOUTING NEW ZEALAND.

Photos by Eliza Scott Harris, except opposite page, bottom, courtesy Matakauri

The verdant North Island. Clockwise from right: The author and her family; hiking at Flockhill; Matakauri Lodge; a heli ride to Minaret Station.

pointed to the summit of a nearby mountain with a wide, flat stretch of grass surrounding an emerald-green lake. We landed and got out to walk around and admire the view from 9,000 feet while Doug and Blair prepared our lunch: pan-fried lobster and steak with salads and fresh fruit. We ate overlooking the lake and the surrounding wilderness, on top of the world physically and mentally.

One of the great benefits of travel is the chance to try on a different way of life. The life our family got to try on in New Zealand was one in which we were outdoors all day on adventures, constantly exclaiming over the beauty that surrounded us, laughing with our rugged guides and feeling like this was exactly how life was meant to be lived. Over dinner, my husband put it this way: “It’s a land of majesty and awe and the people reflect that. They have a humility and they are grateful to walk this earth.” They are also cheeky. I mean, who other than a Kiwi would think, “You know what we should try? Catching lobster from a helicopter.”

New Zealand is compact and narrow, comparable in landmass to Colorado, with a population of just 5.1 million people, a third of whom live in Auckland. The Southern Alps form the spine of the South Island, wet to the west (rainforest, lush with ferns and silver beeches) and dry to the east (grassland). In the southwest corner of the country is Fiordland, a remarkable landscape of glacially carved, U-shaped valleys cut by waterfalls pouring into vast royal-blue lakes. While the Fiordland peaks are crenellated—all sharp, jagged edges, scree slopes and steep sides—the Alps further north near Christchurch are softened by tufted grasses, which give them gentler silhouettes and a tawny color. To the east is the flat, verdant farmland of the Canterbury Plains, where property borders are marked with long rows of poplar trees that serve as a windbreak from the strong prevailing westerlies.

If the South Island is for the mountains, the North Island is for the beach. It’s subtropical with warmer temperatures, palm

With so much wilderness to explore and so little infrastructure, you might imagine it would be hard for an outsider to find a foothold, but that is where New Zealand excels for the luxury traveler.”

A golf course view at Kauri Cliffs. Top: One of the new Kauri Cliffs Residences. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The Homestead at Flockhill’s terrace and living room. Eliza’s sons on their way to herd sheep with the working dogs.

First Look: Homestead at Flockhill

A STAFFED, PRIVATE four-bedroom villa set on a 36,000-acre sheep station, the Homestead at Flockhill makes a wonderful base from which to explore the Southern Alps. Unveiled in 2022, it is an exceptional newcomer that can hold its own among New Zealand’s cadre of impeccable “super lodges.” Set on the South Island, just a 1.5hour drive west of Christchurch, it’s a long, single-story takeover villa atop a hill with dramatic views over Lake Pearson with the mountains behind. Flockhill is surrounded by alpine wilderness, with open fields, rivers, and rolling hills and mountains.

The Homestead feels like a lavish private home with striking modern interiors that make

the most of such local materials as wood and limestone. Designed by architect Johnathan Coote, of Warren & Mahoney, with interiors by Jessica Close, it has a strong wow factor, thanks to its cathedral ceilings, walls of windows, exposed timber beams and impressive artwork. With four bedrooms, a living/dining room, a media room and a vast terrace with a pool and hot tub, the Homestead is ideal both for families and for small groups of friends. Bathrooms have soaking tubs overlooking the views. Service is warm and polished. Thoughtful touches include small presents at turndown.

Chef Craig Martin, formerly of Annandale, prepares elegant but homey farm-to-table

food paired with good local wines. He gets to know his guests over their stays and adapts the menus to please a variety of different tastes. Indagare Tip: Families should request a barbecue night served by a fireplace on the terrace, including homemade marshmallows for roasting.

The privacy is unparalleled, but the real gift of Flockhill is its wide range of outdoor excursions, many of which can be done right on property. Hike through ocher grasses along a ridgeline with vast views amid huge limestone boulders. Take a guided e-bike ride to a waterfall. Paddleboard on Lake Pearson. Fly-fish. And at night, take in the stars from the terrace. Read the review at indagare.com.

trees, undulating lime-green hills, vast sandy beaches, teal water, and hundreds of islands that form an archipelago. It’s a place for surfing, ocean swims and boat excursions. One of the most charming islands is Waiheke, just off Auckland, which is full of vineyards, art galleries and a groovy crowd. The North Island is also known for some of the best golf courses in the world, including Kauri Cliffs, The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, Tara Iti and acclaimed newcomer Te Arai, expected to soon be named world’s best new golf course.

With so much wilderness to explore and so little infrastructure, you might imagine it would be hard for an outsider to find a foothold, but that is where New Zealand excels for the luxury traveler. Many of its dozen or so “super lodges,” as they are known, provide access to extraordinary remote areas that would be otherwise inaccessible. Take Minaret Station, for example, which was our first stop on our trip. Set on 50,000 acres of working farmland in Wanaka in the Southern Alps, just north of Fiordland, it is reachable only by helicopter or boat. The vision of the Wallis family, whose spirit infuses every part of the experience, it is an utterly unique and immersive lodge with only four cabins and a superb team, including a private chef. Because we wanted to make the most of our time, we came straight off the plane from the U.S. to a helicopter ride onto Minaret’s property, where we were dropped off a few miles east of the lodge. We then hiked our way along a river to a cabin in the woods, where we found our helicopter pilot sautéing fresh fish with Cajun spices and garlic over a camp stove. After lunch, we continued our walk to the lodge. Arriving, it felt like we had already had a full-day excursion and we hadn’t even dropped our bags yet.

The second stop on our trip was the stylish Matakauri Lodge, in Queenstown. Ten years ago, on my first trip to New Zealand, I got it in my head that I wanted to come back with my family and hike one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. On our fourth day in the country, we got up early and did a 15-mile stretch of the Routeburn Track in Glenorchy. I had spent months training so that I could keep up with my “hill fit” teenagers, which I mostly did (phew) over the 4,000 feet of elevation gain. The wide and

perfectly groomed trail traverses beautiful sun-dappled woods with ferns, open understories and wobbly suspension bridges over rivers that run a robin’s-egg blue, but the real majesty is above the tree line. Kiwis take their meals very seriously and we came home to a three-course feast at Matakauri, much of it sourced from the garden on property. This, too, is part of the appeal of New Zealand: you can plan a trip going from one world-class lodge to the next. Each one is intimate, special, full of personality, and beautifully designed, with warm staff and farm-to-table food—a destination in itself.

The next day, we continued farther north to the Homestead at Flockhill, an exceptional, new, fully staffed, four-bedroom takeover villa. Set an hour and a half by car from Christchurch in the Southern Alps, Flockhill is a working sheep station. As with all the properties we visited, we quickly got to know and bonded with the staff, including the wonderful chef Craig and his fun brother Corie. Sean, our guide, took us out with his sheepdogs to show them in action and led us on a hike through

“It was the best trip. You could confidently send any family on the New Zealand itinerary you made us and I can’t imagine getting anything but great feedback.”— BUTTERFIELD FAMILY, INDAGARE MEMBERS

Hiking in the Southern Alps at the Homestead at Flockhill. Right, from top: Minaret Station; farm-totable food.

huge limestone boulders on the property. At the end of the week, my husband flew back to the States so the boys could go back to school, while I stayed on to see a few more properties. A highlight was the stunning new Residences at Kauri Cliffs: four-bedroom villas with private pools that are perfect for families. I also saw the new Te Arai property in Mangawhai, an hour north of Auckland. Set on a wide, gorgeous beach, it has a golf course that is considered one of the best in the world. I ended with a night at the Boatshed, a casual spot on Waiheke Island.

Having been to the country before, I had high expectations for our trip, but they were all exceeded. In New Zealand, everything starts with the landscape. Because it’s a small country, it’s simple to get around and you can cover a lot of ground, even if you only have 10 days. I expected to like the South Island best, because it is so alpine, but I ended up torn between all of the different landscapes and unable to pick a favorite; the richness of the experience was in the variety and the contrasts. I did quite a few helicopter rides, the national hobby, and found them an

excellent way to relish the natural beauty and get a lay of the land. It’s so easy in New Zealand to live a life totally integrated with the outdoors. Yes, there are morning beach walks, ocean swims, boat rides, e-bikes and afternoon hikes. But it’s also everything in between. So many seemingly ordinary moments, like a simple airport transfer, provide transfixing beauty. There’s a wholesomeness and purity to New Zealand that helps you reconnect with the best parts of yourself, and this in turn helps you believe in the fundamental goodness of the world.

PLAN YOUR NEXT TRIP

Traveling with Insiders

Indagare Journeys are passion-focused, small-group trips vetted and planned by Indagare and our global network. Each year, we select fascinating destinations to visit in the company of like-minded travelers and expert guides. Our Insider Journeys are led by specialists—including our founder, Melissa Biggs Bradley—who open doors and reveal insider perspectives on each destination. Our trips are hosted by local tastemakers, thought leaders and specialists in fields ranging from archaeology, art history and horticulture to food and wine, design and fashion, journalism and conservation. Meet some of our hosts and join their upcoming trips.

ENVIRONMENTALIST / SAFARI GUIDE: LEE FULLER

“Eighty percent of all flora and fauna found on Madagascar is endemic to the island. If we lose it there, it’s gone forever. My current travel philosophy is ‘Go, go there now.’ Not because it will be too late in five or 10 years’ time but because the best time to make an impact is now!”

LEE HOSTS JOURNEYS IN: MADAGASCAR

ART HISTORIAN: DR. PAGE KNOX

“My trips are for lovers of art, lovers of culture and lovers of adventure. One of the biggest takeaways for me from leading these small-group art trips has been the lasting friendships. I’ve kept in touch with so many people from the France trip and gotten to know their families and friends. Connecting through art and travel creates a unique bond that I highly value.”

PAGE HOSTS JOURNEYS IN: VENICE, UNITED KINGDOM & BUDAPEST

AUTHOR / TRAVEL WRITER: MARY MORRIS

“Travel offers a portal to the world; it enables us to see in ways we perhaps had never seen before. It creates understanding and empathy, not to mention a sense of freedom that might be hard to find elsewhere. To paraphrase Proust here, travel isn’t necessarily about seeing new places, but it is about seeing with fresh eyes. Learning to open our eyes, that is a lot of what travel means to me.”

MARY

HOSTS JOURNEYS

MEXICO & FRANCE

IN:

CHEF / HOSPITALITY ENTREPRENEUR: RYAN HARDY

“I’m obsessed with finding ingredients and learning the local traditions. To me, when you really get to know the flora and fauna is when you start to put roots down. Puglia is rich in deep ways. There are more olive trees here than in the rest of the country— just wave after wave after wave of these olive trees that are two, three, four thousand years old. They’ve seen every bit of history that we know of in modern civilization, and other regions of Italy don’t have that.”

EXPLORE OUR JOURNEYS: 2023 & 2024

In 2023 and 2024, we’re hosting exclusive art, culture and style experiences in Florence, Vienna, Istanbul and Lisbon, and diving into spirituality, history, conservation and adventure in the Yucatán, India, Madagascar and New Zealand—and so much more.

Scan

RYAN HOSTS JOURNEYS IN: PUGLIA

Speechless! No video or photo can represent the beauty of it all!”

—INDAGARE JOURNEYS GUEST, ANTARCTICA, 2023

Travelers enjoying sunset at the doorstep of the Sahara desert on our inaugural Insider Journey to Tunisia last spring; in Tunis, below. The trip will be offered again in April 2024.

AUTHOR OF LOVE INDIA GUIDES: FIONA CAULFIELD

“I chose to move to India to begin a new creative writing life in 2004, after a life-changing trip walking through the Himalayas. Two decades on, my fascination with India remains. It is the most intense place on earth. When you leave, the rest of the world feels quiet and colorless, like someone has flicked off the color switch and turned down the volume. Just like when you are in love, being in India makes you feel more alive.

FIONA HOSTS JOURNEYS IN: INDIA

INDAGARE VP OF SALES: ELISE BRONZO

“Our Indagare tagline is How You Travel Matters, and I also believe that who you travel with matters. The varied viewpoints of your travel companions alchemize with the destination, delivering an entirely different experience than if you had traveled alone. We are fortunate to have a brilliant, curious, joyful community that embraces the adventure.”

JOIN OUR JOURNEYS

Visit INDAGARE.COM/INSIDERJOURNEYS for details and itineraries on all our upcoming journeys. You can also plan your own small-group trip by selecting one of our journeys, picking your dates and letting us take care of the rest. EMAIL: INSIDERJOURNEYS@INDAGARE.COM OR CALL 1-646-780-8383 TO TALK TO OUR TEAM.

Hotelier Meryanne Loum-Martin hosting a special dinner in Marrakech. Clockwise from right: Melissa Biggs Bradley leading our first Insider Journey to Tunisia; art exploration in Antwerp on our Insider Journey to TEFAF Maastricht.

ELISE HOSTS JOURNEYS IN: PARIS, MILAN & ITALIAN DOLOMITES

You make the world a better place for all of us who are lucky to get to experience one of your trips.”

—A TRAVELER TO THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO, SPAIN, 2023

Travel with Impact

Indagare is committed to providing the most sustainable travel experiences possible. This means operating as a 100 percent carbon neutral company and allocating almost 2 percent of annual revenue toward important initiatives around the world.

OUR IMPACT PILLARS

Community | Culture | Conservation

OUR PARTNERS

Long Shield

Lion Guardians

Indagare fully funds a project in Zimbabwe that spans nearly 4,000 square miles of land, protecting 10 prides of lions while providing economic opportunities for residents.

Trocano Araretama Conservation Project

Indagare is supporting a program in the Brazilian Amazon that sequesters carbon, conserves biodiversity and provides clean drinking water to local communities.

Rimba Raya

Biodiversity Reserve

Indagare contributes to a program that reintroduces orangutans into the wild and preserves a peat swamp previously slated for conversion to palm oil plantations.

WANT TO KNOW MORE OR GET INVOLVED? Reach out to your Trip Designer today and read more about our Impact initiatives at indagare.com/travel-impact.

ZIMBABWE

INDONESIA

BRAZIL

–Matsuo Basho