Indagare Magazine Spring/Summer 2022

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Clockwise from below: A private villa in Kenya (page 10); uni pasta in Puglia (page 18); boating in Brazil (page 20). On the front and back covers: Saudi Arabia.

4-5 On My Mind Should We Have Stayed Home?

6-13 On Our Radar

This Season’s Top Travel News

14-17 Culture Watch

Summer Arts Preview

18-19 Member Events

Indagare Global Experiences

20-23 Adventure

Brazil’s Wild Side

24-29 Spotlight


Piedmont Pilgrimage

30-35 Insider Journeys Our 2022 Trips


How you travel matters.

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Exploring in Saudi Arabia (page 36). Left, from top: Indagare team members in Sweden (page 76); Santa Fe (page 68).




We can plan trips to any of the destinations in this issue. Visit to get started.

36-47 Desert Visions 48-55 Europe’s Best New Hotels 56-61 Animal Kingdom 62-67 Epic Family Trips 68-75 Between Earth and Sky 76-81 Where We Traveled 3





friend sent me a recent issue of the literary journal Granta titled “Should We Have Stayed Home? New Travel Writing.” The writers of the essays collected within reflect on everything from climate impact to migration. These are all worthwhile topics, of course, but I will admit that for most of my 30-year career in travel, the larger question of whether we should have stayed home is one that has seldom occurred to me. I have long subscribed to the theory that you more often regret what you didn’t do than what you did. Or, more precisely, that I regret the trips I didn’t take more than the ones I did. But now, the question seems worth pondering. Beginning with the pandemic and continuing now (as I write this) with the war in Ukraine, this question has occupied my thoughts, though my answer remains the same.

had been admonished before leaving. “You should be staying home,” they were told. “You could spread Covid.” No matter that they were traveling to places with lower transmission rates than their home communities and stricter safety protocols. They were reluctant to post photos on their social feeds. None of us caught or spread Covid, and the rangers and hotel staff that we met applauded us for supporting their work and, by extension, helping them to support their families. I did post photos, hoping that people would remember the joy of safari and the positive impact we can have on the destinations we visit. We could have stayed home. But when one local woman said our visit— after six months of lockdown—gave her hope that travelers would one day return, I knew that choosing not to stay home was the right choice for me.

While we stayed home during much of 2020, as the pandemic unfurled around the globe, it seemed the best option for most individuals and societies was to stay put. We could keep away from each other and not transmit the virus. But as a few borders began to open in the summer, I decided that as a professional traveler I needed to venture out, to see how travel in a Covid world could be safe and to support the tourism industry, which employs 10 percent of the world’s citizens. After a solo trip to Kenya, I hosted what I believe were the first international groups of American leisure travelers after Covid lockdowns had lifted; we flew to Rwanda in November 2020.

Almost two years later, when I decided to return to Saudi Arabia (featured on our cover) this January, the “should” question came up again. This time, it wasn’t just because of Covid considerations. People raised the country’s human rights record. Over the years, many travel companies have supported boycotts to places like Cuba, Iran, Myanmar and Zimbabwe as a way to protest the regimes in power. However, I am an anti-isolationist. On my travels to those countries, I have been told by their citizens that their preference is for visitors to come, to bear witness, to exchange ideas and to support livelihoods. I will never forget the woman in Tehran who said to me, “Thank you for coming to see us and not just believing what you see in the press. We are so much more than that.”

A few of the 20 travelers who came with me in those pre-vaccine days told me that they



As I traveled around the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, which is in the midst of a massive social change, I met men and women who had lived or been educated abroad who were returning because of new opportunities. I spoke to young women who had never thought that they would work outside of the home and were now exulting in newfound freedoms. Expats living in Riyadh relayed how surprised they were by how quickly change has come and how seamlessly it has been accepted. Ninety-eight percent of Saudis are on Twitter, and this winter DJs from around the world came to Riyadh for MDL Beast, a music festival attended by more than 700,000. Only a few years ago, music gatherings of any kind were prohibited. As I write this, unprecedented international sanctions have been imposed on Russia for its invasion of Ukraine. Russian planes have been banned by the West. While I wholeheartedly support this and hope that the economic consequences will effect change, I cannot help but also think of two of my favorite Russian tour guides—both highly educated women with fierce opinions. I remember that the small group of travelers who were with me a few years ago were shocked by how openly critical of Putin and his policies they were, despite the dangers of doing so. Unfortunately and unimaginably, today their livelihoods have evaporated, most likely along with much of their savings, access to information and ability to travel. I don’t know when we might meet again, but I pray that they and all those who welcomed us so warmly and genuinely are safe. And I am so glad that I chose to go to Russia when I did.

Melissa Biggs Bradley in Saudi Arabia. Clockwise from right: Melissa getting a first look with a guide at UNESCO World Heritage site At-Turaif in Riyadh; Melissa in Kenya last year.

The wonderful travel writer Jan Morris, when asked years ago by the Paris Review about her nomadic ways, replied “I thought that the restlessness I was possessed by was, perhaps, some yearning, not so much for the sake of escape as for the sake of quest: a quest for unity, a search for wholeness…. I’ve become obsessed with the idea of reconciliation, particularly reconciliation with nature but with people too, of course. I think that travel has been a kind of search for that, a pursuit for unity and even an attempt to contribute to a sense of unity.” I couldn’t agree with this sentiment more, which is why I will keep venturing out.



Indagare is a members-only boutique travel-planning company. We offer curated content, customized trip-planning and group trips around personal passions. Indagare Magazine is published twice annually exclusively for Indagare members. © 2022 Indagare. All Rights Reserved. See the magazine online at Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Trip inquiries and change of address requests can be made by phone or by emailing Indagare Membership Office: 212-988-2611 1177 Avenue of the Americas New York, NY 10036




Bali High NO WALLS, NO DOORS MIGHT NOT be what you’d expect to find at a luxury resort, but at Buahan, Banyan Tree’s newest Escape property in Bali, that is precisely the idea. A 40-minute drive from Ubud, the 16-balé (villa) resort, whose very-far-from-anywhere location is next to the Ayung River, comes with its own waterfall and 180-degree panoramic views of seven mountains. Open to the outdoors, balés resemble traditional Balinese houses, with spaces for living, sleeping and bathing, and each has its own infinity pool and terrace. Buahan Banyan Tree Escape has been built and decorated with repurposed Bornean ironwood from jetties and fishing boats, along with locally farmed, fast-growing bamboo, rattan and wood furnishings. Headboards and mirrors in rooms have been hand-carved locally, and copper bathtubs, hand-crafted by coppersmiths from Java. A communal pavilion with an open kitchen and bar creates a sense of community among

guests, while menus at the two restaurants and bars include ingredients that are all sourced from within a one-hour drive of the property. Connecting to nature, learning and community integration are an essential part of the Buahan experience, as is Bali’s Tri Hita Karana philosophy of maintaining a balance between the physical and spiritual worlds. Guests are encouraged to visit the island’s cultural festivals, nearby handicraft centers, temples, the Ubud Monkey Forest and Mount Batur. Designed to have as little impact as possible on the surrounding environment, the resort is part of the Buahan Subak community, a UNESCO initiative that is committed to responsible water-management practices. The property’s holistic approach also incorporates regional healing and well-being techniques, and secret Hideaway Spots around the property function as sanctuaries to ensure that guests experience harmony in nature.—Jen Barr





Left: Lake Como’s Villa d’Este. Below: A bison in Yellowstone National Park.

ICONS Two of our favorite getaways are celebrating their

sesquicentennials this year: happy 150 to Yellowstone National Park and Villa d’Este! These impossibly beautiful places—America’s first national park and Lake Como’s leading address for glamour—are worlds apart in scale and style. One is a massive, rugged refuge for American bison. The other is an intimate, though elaborate, celebration of Italian civility. But for a century and a half, both have excelled at providing unparalleled experiences for the travelers lucky enough to visit.­­—Peter Schlesinger

This summer we’ll be packing powerful new books by female authors about how we travel emotionally—through the choices we make, unconscious memories, human connections in search of truth and the ties that bind us: Former Indagare staffer Nikki Erlick’s debut novel The Measure (HarperCollins), which has already been compared to The Age of Miracles and The Immortalists, imagines a world in which its characters can choose to know how long they live—and accept the consequences…. Tara M. Stringfellow’s Memphis (Dial) celebrates the resilience of women in a black family over multiple generations…. This Time Tomorrow (Penguin Random House), Emma Straub’s latest, is a time-travel fantasy about a fortysomething woman who wakes up one day to find she is 16 again…. Finding Me: A Memoir (HarperOne), by Viola Davis, is an unflinching look at the actress’s journey from South Carolina to Hollywood.—J.B. 8



Fine Print: Summer Reading

Polenta custard at Barndiva. Right, from top: Barndiva chef Erik Anderson and pastry chef Neidy Venegas; the dining room at LULU.



The pandemic gave some of California’s most renowned chefs time to dream up thrilling concepts, and while these new and reimagined spots have serious Michelin pedigrees, they take a refreshingly casual and sustainable approach to dining. Here are the spots you won’t want to miss.—Jen Murphy LOS ANGELES




Mother Wolf



Little Saint

Pasta maverick Evan Funke brings old-world Roman flavors to Hollywood at this sexy new Italian spot. The dining room, with its blush banquettes, vintage chandeliers and white-jacketed waitstaff, could be the set of a Fellini film. Funke serves up classic pastas like cacio e pepe and carbonara, and perfect Negronis and an amaro cart complement the cooking.

The vision of slow food maven Alice Waters, this sustainably minded lunch spot within the Hammer Museum aims to support the local community through collaborations with area farmers, biodynamic winemakers and artists. Longtime Chez Panisse chef David Tanis is behind the market-driven dishes such as halibut carpaccio and baked Sonoma goat cheese with beets.

This Sonoma icon has been reenergized by star chef Erik Anderson, cocktail wiz Scott Beattie and former Delfina Group wine director Sally Kim. Anderson brings haute touches like his own caviar line. Beattie is incorporating foraged finds in his drinks and will host post-meal cocktail classes. And Kim has brought small-batch bottles from the Sonoma wine shed.

Kyle and Katina Connaughton of Sonoma’s three-Michelin-starred SingleThread go meat-free at this 100 percent plant-based restaurant, café and wine shop in the heart of Healdsburg. By day, grab third-wave coffee and vegan puff pastries to go. At night, gather for live music, art shows and meals starring produce from both Little Saint and SingleThread’s farms.

POP-UPS In the wake of Covid, chefs are experimenting with creative pop-ups. A few to note: the Guest Chef Series featuring Nancy Silverton and Ryan Hardy at Ojai Valley Inn; the Baja Lab Kitchen at Chileno Bay, hosting Lele ​​ Cristobal in April, Virgilio Martínez in May and Daniela de Soto in December; and the Restaurant at Meadowood, popping up at Mexico City’s Pujol and NYC’s Atomix.—Kathryn Nathanson 9




Clockwise from left: Lions at play in the Lewa-Borana Conservancy; the terrace and living room at a private villa in Kenya.

PRIVATE KENYA On Kenya’s 90,000-acre Lewa-Borana Conservancy, which sits at the foot of Mount Kenya in Laikipia, private residences offer a luxurious way to enjoy an African safari. If you’ve ever dreamed of taking over your own conservancy, you can book four homes and one lodge on Borana to call it your own. Activities include rhino tracking, horseback riding, biking to see wildlife (from a distance) and visiting Frog Rock—aka Pride Rock from The Lion King. Contact Indagare or your Trip Designer to learn more.—K.N.



Insider’s Guide: My Mykonos After falling in love with Mykonos—and discovering outdoor yoga classes didn’t exist there—Lauren Demarest left the world of advertising in NYC to launch Sweat Vacay (, a collection of outdoor workout studios on the island. Here’s her guide to the paradise: DREAMY BEACH


“Every local loves Agios Sostis. It has no organized parking or club and is the kind of place where you bring your own towel and picnic and a book. The water is next-level gorgeous, and I love Kiki’s Taverna just down the beach.”

“The Garden of Mykonos, no question! On the old estate of violinist Yehudi Menuhin, it’s a sixtiered garden built into the side of a mountain. Order the Fumo Rosso, a twist on the Negroni.”


“Pere Ubu, at Kalesma resort, a sleek and minimalist take on Cycladic traditional style. The octopus here is fantastic, served with spicy house-made sausage, black garlic, onion-vinegar syrup and black hummus.”

“Jackie O’ Beach Club is good for drag shows, dancing and having fun. Liasti is at the extreme southeast side of the island, but worth the trip for a day that is more low-key and quieter than the clubbier beaches on the south shore.” TOP SHOPS

“Meraki has ceramics, metal work, woodworking and jewelry from local artists. I buy handmade gifts for all my friends and family here. For traditional loom-woven clothes, Faye Chatzi Showroom features the designer’s creations. Her loom is giant and gorgeous. She has her own silkworms and harvests dyes and weaves every piece herself. Her work is exceptional. At Kontiza Mykonos, Eleni Kontiza sews handmade bags. From giant beach totes to little carryall pouches, I have these in every color and style—and so do all of my friends. They are simple, functional and classic.”



“At Kounelas, you go in the kitchen and pick your fish. I recommend the outdoor seating under the giant fig tree. It’s just too perfect under there.” MOVIE NIGHT

“Cine Manto is the outdoor cinema on the island, open from June through September. So much fun!” Mykonos harbor. From top: Lauren Demarest in Greece; Mykonos town.



“Vioma is a peek at rural Mykonos and the way life was for everyone a couple generations ago. Touring the little farm, you see the garden where all the veggies are raised.”







at Annabel’s and Chiltern Firehouse. Broadwick Soho is the first London hotel from Annabel’s designer Martin Brudnizki and has 57 rooms (many with balconies—including a penthouse and nine suites) and an eccentric residential look and feel to match its West End location (part grit, part glamour). There’s also a restaurant serving Sicilian-inspired plates, plus a rooftop cocktail bar. In South Kensington, The Other House features 200 residential-style “club flats” and an array of on-demand services delivered via app—all with the goal of maximizing your “slow travel” experience. “Residents” get access to work spaces, dining and screening rooms, a spa and fitness center. Our bags are packed, we’re ready to go.—J.B.


hese decidedly British residence-style hotels are out to make a lasting impression across the pond: Gleneagles Townhouse Edinburgh, sister property to Indagare favorite Gleneagles, with 33 rooms and suites and a members’ club in St. Andrew Square, makes its debut with the Spence restaurant, a rooftop bar, lounge and pantry—along with live music, wine tastings and access to activities at the Scottish estate, one hour away by car. In London, a private members’ club for “creatives” known as The Twenty Two (below), in an Edwardian manor in Mayfair, has 31 bedrooms and suites, plus a separate mews, a restaurant, four bars, an outdoor terrace and cultural events—all designed “for lingering” and run by a team who came up the ranks



From left: Uni at KAI Poroto; cherry blossoms in Nagasaki.

Islands: Dreaming of Japan


s cherry blossoms bloom across Japan, we’re looking forward to the exciting new properties that are (or will be) awaiting our return. January saw the opening of KAI Poroto, Hoshino Resort’s first hot-spring ryokan in Hokkaido, inspired by the culture of the native Ainu people. Its most unique asset: a cone-shaped bathhouse that draws water from

a moor spring. Jumping south, Japan’s art island Naoshima—home of Yayoi Kusama’s storied yellow pumpkin—is getting its first luxury ryokan, Naoshima Ryokan Rokasumi. The opening this April of the contemporary ryokan coincides with the 2022 Setouchi Triennale, an art festival that occurs once every three years and lasts approximately 35 days in each of three

seasons: spring, summer and fall. And come summer, the luxury hotel Retreat Goto Ray will be opening in the Goto Islands in one of the Hidden Christian Sites in Nagasaki, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Overlooking the volcanic rock-lined coast, this property aims to allow guests to bask in the beauty of the sea and sky and ponder the islands’ rich history.—Abby Sandman


Cocktail Talk

During Covid, we’ve sampled our share of cocktails to go and even a “walk-tail” or two. But now that a night out is possible (and Negronis and Aperol Spritzes are drinks of choice), we keep hearing requests for drinks that are bitter, tart, tangy, spicy and “dry, not sweet”—with herbal, zest and vegetal infusions. Complex flavors for a complicated time, perhaps?—and one more thing for your taste buds to contend with.—K.N. 13





Mario Mercado details what’s on at the world’s leading institutions—including the latest exhibitions and the newest museums—plus, the top tickets.


Big Opening

The Musée de l’Orangerie houses Monet’s spectacular water lily paintings, which the artist described as his “great decorations.” The exhibition “The Impressionist Décor, Sources of the Water Lilies” reveals the inspiration behind the quote: in Impressionism’s earliest days, those paintings of landscapes, flowers and daily life were first conceived as decoration. Eighty paintings, fans and ceramics, including works by Cassatt, Manet and Renoir, outline this unique form of artistic experimentation.; through July 11.

Cézanne Comes to Town The Art Institute of Chicago’s “Cézanne” is the first major retrospective devoted to the French artist in the United States in 25 years. It brings together more than 90 oil paintings, 40 watercolors, drawings and two sketchbooks from public and private collections in North and South America, Europe and Asia. The exhibition explores Cézanne’s subjects—landscapes, still life, portraits and bathers—across the range of his career, giving dimension to the admiration he engendered in artists from Monet to Picasso.; May 15–September 5. 14





THE BIENNIALS ARE BACK This year, two significant contemporary art events coincide: the Venice Biennale (labiennale. org; April 23–November 27) and NYC’s Whitney Biennial (whitney. org; April 6–September 5). Cecilia Alemani is the first Italian woman named as Biennale curator, and first-time participants include the Republic of Cameroon, Namibia, Nepal, Oman and Uganda. The Whitney’s “Quiet as It’s Kept” showcases 63 American artists and a range of media, including video and film.



What’s On: The West End In Straight Line Crazy, Ralph Fiennes stars in David Hare’s play about NYC power broker Robert Moses, who shaped the metropolis by creating parks, bridges and highways (; through June 18). Anapuma Chandrasekhar traces the story of Nathuram Godse, from follower of Mahatma Gandhi to murderer of the spiritual leader in The Father and the Assassin (; May 12–June 18). Amy Adams takes a turn in The Glass Menagerie, Tennessee Williams’s classic (; May 23– August 27). Game of Thrones alums Emilia Clarke and Indira Varna reunite in Chekhov’s The Seagull (; June 29–September 10).


Broadway & Beyond

James McAvoy assumes the title role in Cyrano de Bergerac at the Brooklyn Academy of Music (; April 5–May 22). Daniel Craig stars in Macbeth, with Ruth Negga in her Broadway debut as Lady Macbeth (Longacre Theatre;; March 29–July 10).●Lincoln Center Theater marks the 125th anniversary of Thornton Wilder’s birth with a new production of the Pulitzer Prize–winning The Skin of Our Teeth (; April 25–July 10). 15




Middle Ages Treasures On May 12, after a multiyear renovation to better display one of the world’s best collections of medieval art, the Musée de Cluny unveils a restoration that includes its 15th-century chapel, the remains of Gallo-Roman baths and a building that houses exhibitions and a bookstore. Elevators and ramps bring 21st-century accessibility to all visitors in their quest of the Lady and the Unicorn tapestries.




An Iconoclastic Artist Arrives At Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa, “Shooting Down Babylon” represents the largest retrospective yet of South African artist Tracey Rose. The show encompasses video, film, photography, painting and print, as well as performance during the span of 1990 to 2022. It explores postcolonial subjects including repatriation, reparation and reckoning.; through August 28. 16



This year marks the 400th anniversary of the birth of French playwright Molière, a favorite of Louis XIV. It will be celebrated in style at Versailles, with concerts and productions, including the comédie-ballets George Dandin and Le Bourgeois Gentilhomme. Performances take place at the Opéra Royal, the theater commissioned by the Sun King.; April 13–September 25.


SUMMER FESTIVALS & PERFORMANCE SERIES In the Berkshires, the Boston Symphony Orchestra returns to Tanglewood with classical music, new premieres and musical debuts, plus concerts by James Taylor and Earth, Wind & Fire (; June 17–Sept 12). A half hour away, Jacob’s Pillow remains both at the center and vanguard of the global dance scene, drawing companies and artists from around the world to its 10-week festival (; June 22–August 28). San Diego’s new Rady Shell at Jacob’s Park will see the San Diego Symphony perform works by Ravel and Debussy (May 21–22) and Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony (May 27–28). Pop artists include Olivia Rodrigo (May 18), Ben Platt (September

9) and an act by comedians Steven Martin and Martin Short (; June 19). The Salzburg Festival marks its 101st anniversary with seven weeks of programs, including eight operas and concerts by the Vienna and Berlin Philharmonic orchestras (; July 15–August 31). Athens Epidaurus Festival is back at three ancient amphitheaters, including the impressive Odeon of Herodes Atticus, on the slope of the Acropolis. This summer, the Greek National Opera presents two productions: a new staging of Verdi’s Rigoletto and a revival of Puccini’s Tosca (; June 2–July 31).


Raphael’s Return The exhibition “Raphael” at the National Gallery, organized for the 500th anniversary of the artist’s birth (2020) and delayed because of Covid restrictions, was worth the wait. This expansive show—90 works including 30 paintings, 52 drawings and works on paper, as well as letters, coins and tapestries—encompasses the remarkable achievement of the Italian master of the Late Renaissance, which is even more extraordinary given his short life of 37 years.; April 9–July 31.



A New Art Destination When Norway’s National Museum is inaugurated in Oslo on June 11, it will be the largest museum in the Nordic region, with 80 galleries for paintings, sculpture, prints and drawings, as well as decorative arts and design. The collection ranges from Chinese porcelain and Dutch landscape paintings to a gallery dedicated to Munch’s The Scream. The Light Hall, a luminous structure clad in marble and glass, provides a showcase for contemporary art, and from its rooftop, a view of Oslo’s city center. 17



Indagare Global Experience News

Without leaving home, you can join our upcoming Virtual Travels in France, Italy and Germany and more led by our Indagare History, Gardens, and Cooking Club hosts: historian Jamie Sewell, horticultural expert Amy Kupec Larue and chef Ryan Hardy. Stay tuned for details about a Page Knox 2023 trip!

Sign up for our virtual series created in partnership with WSJ+, the Wall Street Journal’s premium member loyalty program. Exclusively for Indagare and WSJ+ members, these curated lectures and classes allow you to travel the globe virtually and go behind the scenes with our top guides and insiders to learn about art, history, culture, architecture, food and more. • May 3: The Writings on the (Great) Wall— Enjoy a livestream of the Mutianyu Section of China’s Great Wall • May 12: Tour the Santa Catalina Monastery in Arequipa, Peru • June 7: Visit London’s world-renowned Sir John Soane’s Museum • June 22: Discover Machu Picchu during Winter Solstice! Learn more at globalclassroom-wsj 18


Italian Flavor Ryan Hardy, the chef behind acclaimed restaurants Charlie Bird and Pasquale Jones, and host of our recent Tasting Your Way Through Puglia Club, discusses his obsession with Italy’s southern region—its landscapes, its culture and, most importantly, its food. What is it you love about Puglia so much? One of my best friends put together a trip to Puglia in 2010. My wife is Italian, and neither of us had spent time there. But I had been to Italy a few times and I’ve spent a lot of time in Mexico, and I found this amazing juxtaposition in Puglia. It was Italian in everything that you know of, it was Greek in everything that you looked at, and it was Mexican in its vibrancy… Even in Italy, when you get down there, the Turkish influence is strong, the Moroccan influence is strong, the Greek influence is strong, and so you look around and you’re like we’re speaking Italian, but am I in Italy? That trip was the start of a love affair. The summer after that first trip… we rented a house in another town. We go every


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year now. As a family (I have two kids), my wife and I look forward to that trip every year, and we even went for a month in 2019. We didn’t go in 2020, which was heartbreaking.

From top: A lunch spread in Puglia; swimming at a grotto; fresh Pugliese seafood.Opposite: Chef Ryan Hardy.

What makes Puglia such a special foodie destination? I’m obsessed with finding ingredients and going to visit artisans and learning the local names and traditions. To me, when you really get to know the local flora and fauna is when you start to put roots down. Puglia is rich in deep, deep, deep ways, and food is the wealth of the region. There are more olive trees in Puglia than there are planted in the rest of the country—just wave after wave after wave of olive trees that are two, even three thousand years old. They’ve seen every bit of history that we know of in modern civilization, and other regions of Italy don’t have that. They don’t have the weather to let these things grow year-round, and they don’t have the historical presence— these shadows cast across the land. So, I think olive oil is, for

me, number one, and maybe number two…. Tell us more about your appreciation for olive oil. I learned how to cook with butter early in my career. It wasn’t until later, through travel, that I tasted real olive oil, and I was like, ‘Oh my God. This is unbelievable.’ … For the past 15 years, I have been obsessed with olive oil. Puglia is olive oil. If you can learn nothing else about the region, that is the number one thing. Is there a specific Pugliese dish that you love? I love to make orecchiette. That dish exemplifies the region. The pasta is as peasant as it gets—it’s flour and water, the coarsest flour that you can find. Everything about it embodies the region—the texture of it, the color, the creaminess. It’s kind of a mishmash. You put it into a bowl and you recognize that this is not refined, and you cannot make it into a Michelin-star dish. It is intentionally not that—and that is one of the things that I really cherish about Puglia.


TRAVEL WITH CHEF RYAN HARDY TO PUGLIA THIS FALL! Learn why the flavors of southern Italy are some of the country’s richest (yet often most overlooked) on our Insider Journey to the region with Ryan Hardy as your host next fall. Find out more about the Insider Journey or request an itinerary at 19



Embarking on an epic wildlife adventure in the Amazon and the Pantanal, Peter Schlesinger faces some of his darkest fears (snakes and spiders and piranhas, oh my!) in the jungles of Brazil.

STANDING WITH MY TOES over the edge of the floating dock, with the midday sun blazing, I stared down into the jet-black water at my own reflection. Like Peter Pan’s shadow, my mirror image seemed to have a life of its own, impatiently waiting for me to jump in and join it. But this was the Amazon, and the water’s impossible darkness made it all too easy for me to imagine a host of dangers lurking below the surface. I was at Cristalino Lodge, in Brazil’s Mato Grosso state on the southern edge of the Amazon rain forest. Reachable only by boat, it is part of a 44-square-mile private preserve that forms a critical natural buffer between encroaching ranchlands and pure wilderness. Much of the preserve straddles the Cristalino River, an Amazon tributary that receives its inky color from tannins released by decaying leaves. The lodge itself comprises 12 teak bungalows nestled in a garden clearing near the river. A short walk through the jungle is Cristalino’s open-air restaurant, where I’d been overeating Brazilian specialties at every meal since I arrived. Here, like on an African safari, guests rise before dawn for guided excursions to see the resident wildlife. That morning, Rafa, my guide, had taken me to the top of a 164-foot observation tower to catch sunrise over the misty canopy. As the deep-purple sky lightened, I watched a mother spider monkey lead her three youngsters from tree to tree directly under us; saw yellow-beaked



toucans take to the skies after a night of rest; and heard the distant barks of howler monkeys. There are daily afternoon adventures, too, including kayaking through the flooded forest, boating on the Cristalino or hiking on 22 miles of trails. At each activity I kept my eyes peeled: river otters and tapirs, ocelots, sloths and the elusive jaguar all lurk—expertly

camouflaged—in this refuge. Less hidden are the 585 bird species, whose vibrant colors and whimsical calls never let me forget the pinch-myself fact that I was in the Amazon. The night before, I’d had an all-too-close encounter with a jararaca, an aggressive, venomous snake that I nearly stepped on while walking back to my bungalow after dinner.

Clockwise from left: A curl-crested aracari; a blue morpho butterfly; the landscape surrounding Cristalino Lodge. Opposite: Indagare’s Peter Schlesinger boating at sunset.


Like on an African safari, guests rise before dawn for excursions to see wildlife…. As the deeppurple sky lightened, I saw a mother spider monkey lead her youngsters from tree to tree and watched toucans take to the skies after a night of rest.”



A few days before, I’d been in on an entirely different type of Brazilian safari. Refugio Ecológico Caiman is in the heart of the Pantanal, the world’s largest wetland, about the size of France. Caiman’s private reserve covers 200 square miles of that, combining wild terrain with functioning ranchlands. From their home base at the just-renovated main estancia or at two smaller, buyout-only lodges, guests go on two drives a day with expert guides. And while everything is hidden in the Amazon, many of the animals of the Pantanal—like in the seemingly unending plains of Africa—are out in the open. Elegant jabiru storks stand as tall as a human, serene capybaras lounge by the water’s edge, bear-like anteaters roam the paths in search of food and regal macaws soar brazenly overhead. But for most travelers, Caiman’s real draw is the usually elusive jaguar: visitors have a 98 percent chance of seeing these majestic hunters during their stay. That’s thanks to the rewilding efforts of Onçafari, Brazil’s leading jaguar research NGO. Its name is a play on “onça,” Portuguese for jaguar, and “safari,” and the organization models

itself after South Africa’s Londolozi Game Reserve’s leopard researchers. From its headquarters at Caiman, Onçafari tracks the endangered big cat throughout Brazil. During my tour, I spent a magical hour watching Fera and her adorable, gutsy cub Ferinha laze about under the hot South American sun. Under that same sun back at Cristalino, I had spent a good 15 minutes in a mild panic as I stood there, watching my reflection in the black water. Rafa mentioned that piranhas, snakes and the dreaded candiru fish (rumored to swim up the urethra, and a prominent plotline in a novel I’d read after college) all live in the river. Still, he had assured me, “it’s totally safe for swimming.” After a few more deep breaths, I finally made the leap and plunged into the unknown. Naturally, there was a massive spider waiting for me on the dock steps when I got out of the water after a few backstrokes in circles. Rafa had mentioned they often hang out (literally) over the water’s edge to hunt for fish. But in another moment of surprising poise, I calmly stepped past it and returned to my sun lounger.

Capybaras cooling off in the water at Refugio Ecológico Caiman. Clockwise from above: The dining room at Six Senses Botanique; sunset over the river; the firepit at Cristalino Lodge; Peter in front of a 800-year-old brazil nut tree at Cristolino Lodge.

Trip Tips

LET US DESIGN YOUR TRIP TO BRAZIL Call us at 212-988-2611 or visit to plan your itinerary.




Length of Stay: Three nights at each lodge, with full days of touring Optimal Seasons: Dry season (April to June in the Pantanal; June to October at Cristalino) has the easiest wildlife spotting, but is also the hottest time of year. Wet season (January to March in the Pantanal; February and March at Cristalino) is when you can see baby animals and the scenery at its most beautiful, though wildlife viewing in general is harder. Don’t Miss: The hike to 800-year-old trees at Cristalino. They’ve been standing guard since before the first Europeans arrived in the Americas.

Hotel Watch



Peter also checked in to Six Senses Botanique (, which had just opened in the lush mountains between São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. The hillside retreat’s villas have expansive decks—ideal for taking in the views over breakfast before venturing on horseback or hiking to waterfalls or a spa treatment. Next stop: Rosewood Sao Paulo (rosewoodhotels. com) and Fasano Trancoso ( The former marks Rosewood’s debut in South America, and occupies an old hospital as well as a Jean-Nouvel tower lined with foliage-filled trellises. The latter is the latest from Brazil’s leading luxury hoteliers. Its 40 beachside bungalows, designed by Brazilian architect Isay Weinfeld, bring a splash of glamour to one of Bahia’s most alluring towns.




With its generous share of Michelin-starred restaurants (43!), charming villages and vineyards amid the glorious hill towns of northern Italy, Piedmont has long been on the food and wine lover’s map. Kathryn Nathanson crafts the ultimate itinerary.

EVERY REGION IN ITALY has its specialties, but it is almost unimaginable how many specialties come out of the Langhe region of Piedmont. From hazelnuts to Barolo to truffles, Piedmont has capitalized on its excellence in ingredients and become a pilgrimage destination for food and wine lovers and travelers from all over the world. Piedmont consists of 20 different regions. Turin is the official capital, but Alba is considered the capital of the Langhe region. The Langhe is a small area east of the Tanaro River and south of Alba— rolling hills topped with medieval villages and breathtaking views of the snow-covered Alps in the not-sofar-off distance. Most famously, it also hosts the White Truffle Festival, on weekends every fall in Alba, and is the only area in the world that can produce Barolo and Barbaresco wines. If this isn’t enough, 43 of the region’s restaurants have garnered Michelin stars, making it second only in star count to Lombardy, in all of Italy. Though the area is known for its many accolades, what makes it so unique is that it has retained its warmth and homeyness. In Piedmont, you are welcomed into the homes and hearts of locals at every turn. It’s unpretentious and relaxed, oriented around the slow food and the slow life. The majority of restaurants and wineries are family-run and -operated. You’re



typically walking into old farmhouses and stables when you dine, not grand, extravagant estates. Of course there is the occasional converted castle, monastery or two, but when you arrive at any type of restaurant—from small cafés and bars to fine-dining institutions—you are sure to be greeted by the chef. (Sometimes the experience is so friendly that you might even forget for a moment that you have to pay at the end.) And oftentimes, the chef lives right above the restaurant. Same with the wineries. When you enter, you are typically meeting the winemaker or their son or daughter, who will lead you through a tour and tasting. At the historic Azelia winery in Castiglione Falletto (in Barolo), the winemaker’s son, Lorenzo Scavino (third generation), takes you through the cellar, where you’ll get to see (and blow the dust off ) bottles of Barolo that survived the Great War, and later enjoy a vertical tasting of his family’s prized Barolo. In the tasting room at Azelia, we sat around a long wooden table for hours tasting and enjoying each other’s company. If it weren’t

for Lorenzo’s grandfather’s wooden clock from the 1930s ticking away in the background (or maybe because of it), I would have sworn we had been transported back in time. You can truly feel how proud these families are about being from Piedmont and living here—and how proud they each are of their product, their craft. Though the region might feel casual, do not be fooled. Reservations are required almost everywhere and must be made months in advance. Before this trip, I had never shown up at a winery and fallen in love with the wine only to be told they are completely sold out of it! It’s a region that is best shown to you by a local, as only a local can open the doors to exclusive restaurants and wineries, and also set you up with an authentic truffle hunt—an activity that cannot be missed. Here is a perfect four-day itinerary with which to explore the region. Longer itineraries allow plenty of time to explore nearby Turin, the many charming villages of the Langhe and more.

In Piedmont, you are welcomed into the homes and hearts of locals at every turn. It’s unpretentious and relaxed, oriented around the slow food and the slow life.”


The Piedmont landscape. Clockwise from below: A charcuterie spread for lunch; the village of Barolo; fresh truffle pasta.




Piedmont in Four Days Head to Ceretto Winery, located a few minutes by car outside of Alba, which is one of the grander wineries with a tasting room in the region. Ceretto produces both Barbaresco and Barolo wine, so it is the ideal place for an introduction to the Langhe. Next, head to the gourmet osteria Campamac for lunch in the village of Barbaresco. The name, in Piedmontese, means “give us some more, give it your all.” The food is simple and traditional Piedmontese but served in an elevated fashion in a modern setting. The team makes fresh pasta, bread, fillings and sauces daily. In the afternoon, head back to your hotel to enjoy a spa treatment or relax on property. Enjoy dinner at Michelin-starred La Ciau del Tornavento, located in Treiso, one of the three villages allowed to produce Barbaresco wine (along with Barbaresco



and Neive). This restaurant is housed in a 1930s building that has been renovated to create a contemporary spot with incredible views of the Langhe. Enjoy an aperitivo in the wine cellar (the restaurant has the second-largest wine cellar in all of Italy) before starting your meal.

DAY 2: ALBA TO BARBARESCO, TRUFFLE HUNTING & MORE Meet a truffle hunter with his dog at an undisclosed location for an experience Indagare can help arrange. The truffle hunter will then take you to his land, where you will spend a special morning searching for black or white truffles (depending on the season). Afterwards, head to the medieval town of Alba for a stroll and then lunch at La Piola to get a taste of chef Enrico Crippa’s casual outpost of his three-Michelin-starred Piazza Duomo. Don’t miss the agnolotti del




A dish at the da Guido restaurant at Relais San Maurizio. Opposite, clockwise from bottom left: Fresh truffles from a truffle hunt; Marchesi di Gresy winery; a Piedmont sunset; truffle hunting.



Ceretto Winery. Opposite, clockwise from left: The wine cellar at Ceretto; Indagare’s Kathryn Nathanson in front of the Barolo Chapel in La Morra; winemakers at Azelia winery.




plin. After lunch, visit a Barbaresco-producing winery (perhaps Albino Rocca or Marchesi di Gressi), with a tour and wine tasting. Before heading back to your hotel, roam through Barbaresco and walk to the top of the village, where you’ll find the Torre di Barbaresco, a tower built in the late 11th century to protect the town from foreign invaders. If the wine tasting wasn’t too much, enjoy an aperitivo on the roof. Finish off the day with dinner at the Michelin-starred da Guido (there are two locations in Piedmont; one is at Relais San Maurizio, one of the most luxurious hotels in the region).

Chapel in La Morra before a stroll through the village and lunch at the lovely osteria, More e Macine. In the afternoon, you may choose to relax at your hotel, stroll other villages, e-bike, hike or visit another Barolo winery. Dinner tonight is in Monforte d’Alba (a town known for its annual jazz festival, held every July). Arrive with enough time to watch the sunset from the terrace of the ancient fortified church at the top of the village. Head to Le Case Della Saracca for an aperitivo and then enjoy a delicious dinner at Da Felicin, an institution in the Langhe and a restaurant that has been run by the same family for more than a century.



Today, dive into Barolo. You’ll start with a walk in the town of Barolo itself, where you can pay a visit to the Falletti Castle (which is now a wine museum) at the top of the village that dates back to the 10th century. Next to the castle you will find the historic Chiesa di S. Donato, a beautiful church with a pink facade. Then get a cellar tour or tasting at a winery— such as Azelia, Parusso, Chiara Boschis or Gaia—in one of the 11 villages that can produce Barolo. Next, visit the vibrantly colored Barolo

In the late morning, join a local chef as she shows you how to prepare traditional Piedmontese dishes at a home in Alba. The cooking lesson will turn into a delicious lunch. Following the conclusion of class, it is time to say goodbye to the region! A trip to Piedmont can also be combined with time in other parts of Italy, including Liguria, Florence, Milan, Venice and the Lakes or Monaco, or even the French Riviera or Burgundy if you’re interested in exploring another wine region further afield.

LET US DESIGN YOUR TRIP TO PIEDMONT Indagare can help you design the ideal itinerary, including the hotels, guided tours, meals and on-theground transportation and experiences that are best for you. Contact a Trip Designer at 212-988-2611 or visit to learn more.


Discovery. Insights. Community. The way we travel may

whom to explore. Our carefully curated itineraries offer

have changed, but these core elements of our inside-

unforgettable experiences on the ground, with fewer

access, small-group trips haven’t. Our journeys celebrate

crowds and deeper immersion in places both wild and

the beauty of pursuing passions and making discoveries

dazzling. Whether on expeditions to atolls in French

while seeing the world together. In this ever-shifting

Polynesia and the glittering ice fields of Antarctica, or on

travel landscape, it’s more valuable than ever to have

grand tours of cultural treasure troves like Stockholm,

a team of experts—and local hosts—to guide you every

Marrakech and Paris, we hope you’ll join us in 2022 to

step of the way, and new friends and connections with

discover the joys of traveling on our Insider Journeys.





Where We’re Going in 2022

Explore highlights from our calendar, including signature itineraries hosted by Indagare founder Melissa Biggs Bradley and other insiders, as well as exclusive curations crafted with premier partners like WSJ. Magazine and Vogue.

Stockholm Style & Design June 7 – 12, 2022 | Hosted by WSJ. Magazine’s Sarah Medford and Melissa Biggs Bradley The Swedish capital balances past and present with Scandinavian aplomb. On this journey, experience the city’s renowned design, fashion and architecture scenes, meeting with locals along the way—including top architects, art historians and curators. Plus, tour galleries and museums and visit historic palaces, grand homes and cutting-edge design shops, including the famous Svenskt Tenn, Drottningholm Palace and the Indagare-adored hotel Ett Hem—and explore the Stockholm archipelago by vintage boat.

Paris Eternal and Extraordinaire September 8 – 12, 2022 | Hosted by the Institute of Classical Architecture & Art Savor the ultimate experience of the City of Light’s most iconic neighborhoods and monuments with the Institute of Classical Architecture & Art and beloved gardens expert Amy Kupec Larue. Highlights include special receptions and meals at private residences; dinner on the Seine aboard a yacht; historical tours of Île de la Cité and the Marais; access to secret gardens, galleries and Michelin-starred restaurants; and behind-the-scenes visits at the Bourse de Commerce, Hôtel de la Marine and beyond.

Hiking in the Italian Dolomites September 10 – 15 and 15 – 20, 2022 Tucked away in northern Italy, Rosa Alpina, an Aman resort, offers access to hundreds of miles of trails in the Dolomites. In this extraordinary landscape with emerald-green meadows, secret pools and jagged mountain peaks, test your limits with daily hikes led by expert guides on one of our most popular Insider Journeys. Active mornings will be followed by meals at the area’s best restaurants (including the three-Michelin-starred Restaurant St. Hubertus) and time to enjoy the luxuries of Rosa Alpina—including massages, hot and cold plunge pools and yoga classes.



“I had the best week in Paris. I feel like I checked off a million once-in-a-lifetime fashion meet-and-greets at once. I loved it. Your ability to find insiders who shared compelling stories with us is just amazing.” — E . C . , O N T H E M A R C H 2 0 2 2 I N S I D E R J O U R N E Y T O PA R I S W I T H V O G U E

“My daughter and I have had such an absolutely lovely time skiing in the Dolomites this past week. The whole team here is really fantastic. The Indagare team has done an amazing job through the whole experience!” — P. R . , O N T H E J A N U A RY 2 0 2 2 I N S I D E R J O U R N E Y T O T H E D O L O M I T E S

— A T R AV E L E R O N T H E O C T O B E R 2 0 21 I N S I D E R J O U R N E Y T O M O R O C C O




“The trip was amazing. The people (our group, our guides, the Moroccans, the Berbers, everyone!), the food, the private visits, the colors, the meals, the souks, the hotel, the beautiful hosts and their homes, the desert, the music—every detail was perfect and we had the best time.”



A Taste of Modena with Massimo Bottura October 27 – 30, 2022 | Hosted by WSJ. Magazine’s Gabe Ulla Join WSJ. food and wine contributor Gabe Ulla for a tour with celebrity chef, entrepreneur and contemporary art aficionado Massimo Bottura. The duo will usher you into the world-famous cuisine and heritage of Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region. While based at Massimo’s new boutique hotel, Casa Maria Luigia, near his hometown of Modena—a city revered for its balsamic vinegar, as well as iconic brands like Ferrari and Maserati— you will gain behind-the-scenes access to the chef ’s world (including his three-Michelin-starred restaurant Osteria Francescana) and much more.

Magical Morocco October 16 – 22, 2022 From the windswept Desert d’Agafay and mysterious Atlas Mountains to the sparkling city of Marrakech, Morocco is a seductive destination that truly has it all: glamour, romance, history, adventure and eternal allure. This signature itinerary offers an in-depth exploration of the country’s many delights, including enchanting gardens, fascinating souks and architecture, ancient cultures and cuisine; plus: you’ll experience one of North Africa’s most exquisite retreats, Richard Branson’s Kasbah Tamadot.





A Fashion Lover’s Milan & Paris with Vogue October 10 – 15 (Milan) and October 15 – 20 (Paris) | Hosted by Melissa Biggs Bradley and Vogue’s Willow Lindley (Paris only) and Alexandra Michler Kopelman (Milan only) Indagare has partnered with Vogue—the first and last word in fashion— to give you unmatched access to the world’s style capitals. This fall, our Paris and Milan fashion-focused itineraries will connect you with designers, artisans, editors and historians during special events. You will go behind-the-scenes in the archives and ateliers of legendary houses, from Dior to Prada, and discover newer talents and their inspirations. These are musts for fashion lovers.


Discover French Polynesia October 25 – 30, 2022 | Hosted by Penta and Melissa Biggs Bradley This Indagare x Penta Journey has been carefully created to promote conservation and sustainable travel. In the company of esteemed naturalists, explore the white-sand beaches, secret lagoons and bright coral reefs of French Polynesia from the vantage point of The Brando, a groundbreaking eco-luxury resort (and former hideaway of Marlon Brando) tucked within a private atoll. You’ll also have the chance to immerse yourself in local Tahitian culture and traditions.

Antarctica Awaits November 8 – 21, 2022 | Hosted by Melissa Biggs Bradley Travel to the majestic White Continent on Indagare’s inaugural Impact Journey, a carbon-neutral adventure that brings the major issues facing the world to light with luxury and style. Aboard the state-of-the-art Ultramarine expedition ship, biologists, glaciologists and environmentalists will share just how special—and vulnerable—Antarctica truly is. Highlights include Zodiac sailing excursions, hiking trips and helicopter sightseeing to catch a glimpse of giant icebergs rising out of the ocean, orcas on the hunt and charming penguins building their rookeries across the snow.


COMING SOON: 2023 Saudi Arabia. Senegal. Sicily. Malta. Oaxaca. Where are we going next? Our team is busy crafting fantastic new trips. To be the first to receive the itineraries, email us at or visit our website at Plus: To customize any of these experiences for your own private adventure, contact us.



Desert Visions


Mythical and mysterious, Saudi Arabia is a country of contradictions, with an abundance of spectacular (and rarely seen) ancient historic sites. Melissa Biggs Bradley returns to the Middle East to find a once-conservative kingdom in the midst of transformation.




NAJMA (She Placed One Thousand Suns Over the Transparent Overlays of Space), an art installation originally at the Desert X AlUla that remains on the grounds of AlUla’s Habitas hotel.



AlUla’s AlJadidah neighborhood. Clockwise from right: Habitas AlUla; Hegra; Habitas AlUla; a master artisan in Riyadh.




OME DESTINATIONS immediately conjure strong images and associations. Saudi Arabia is one of them. Whether the images are of caravans of camels cresting desert dunes or of something more visceral, the country, which is one of the last in the world to welcome foreign visitors, remains a mystery to most. Anthony Bourdain emphasized this when he asked during his episode on Saudi Arabia for No Reservations, “Is there a country in the world about which Americans are more ignorant or less sympathetic?” When I first traveled to Saudi Arabia, four years ago, tourist visas had not yet been established; women were not allowed to have driver’s licenses; restaurants segregated men and women; and religious police enforced dress codes and behavior. I disembarked in Riyadh cloaked in a full-length black abaya (robe) and hijab (headscarf ) and melted into a sea of seeming uniformity. Women were almost exclusively cloaked head-to-toe in black. Like a flock of crows, we appeared identical, only distinguished by our handbags. (Suddenly the craze for Fendi baguettes and Dior saddle bags took on new meaning.) But on my recent trip, the only time I donned a headscarf was while going through customs. By the time I reached the airport exit, one of the women from my flight had told me I didn’t need to wear one anymore.


“When were you last here?” she asked. “Four years ago,” I answered. “You will see,” she said with a smile. “Much has changed.” On my first visit, I had been introduced to Vision 2030, Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman’s plan to transition the conservative kingdom into a modern nation and to diversify the country’s economy away from a dependence on oil by adding other flourishing industries, principally tourism. Though almost 17 million religious pilgrims traveled to Saudi Arabia in 2019, making it the Middle East’s second-most-visited destination, until the fall of 2019 tourist visas were not issued. I had been invited by one of the royal commissions tasked with developing tourism around the cultural treasures at AlUla. The 9,000-square-mile area in northwest Saudi Arabia includes a section that is essentially a giant open-air museum with five historic sites—encompassing ancient cities and towns, tombs, mud houses, rock art—amid vast lunar desert landscapes. The star of these


sites is Hegra, or Mada’in Saleh, as the ancient Nabataean sister city of Petra is called. Located 12 miles north of the old town of AlUla, it contains 110 elaborately stone-hewn classical tombs in a dramatic desert setting. I have been fortunate to visit the greatest of man’s monuments—the Taj Mahal, the Great Wall, Petra, Machu Picchu, Angkor Wat, Luxor, the Colosseum and the Acropolis—and Hegra inspires the same caliber of awe. Yet it remains a traveler’s secret; the number of living people who have visited may fit into a large football stadium. (For perspective, in 2019 alone Angkor Wat received more than 2.2 million visitors.) When I first visited Hegra in 2018, the site had not yet opened to the public, and in a lifetime of travels I had never felt more akin to Indiana Jones discovering a “lost city.” Since my last visit, Saudi Arabia has entered into an era of transformation. On this trip, not only was I able to wear Western clothing, but half the guides at Hegra were local women, many of whom have their driver’s licenses and gather in restaurants after work, in the lovely pedestrian-only historic old town, where the sexes are no longer segregated. (As alcohol remains illegal, no cocktails are sold.) While on my previous visit I trekked across the sand to tour the columned tombs, now, vintage Land Rovers ferry sightseers between them. Four years ago, there was nothing to purchase; today, you can buy everything from helicopter flights to locally made ceramics and crafts. A hip hotel from the Habitas group offers eco-chic tents, an infinity pool and creative mocktails. Yet there are still fewer than 500 hotel beds in the region, meaning the massive site receives only around 150 people a day at most. So every traveler experiences that frisson of being an explorer, of having arrived at one of the world’s great marvels before word has gotten out and the crowds have arrived. Hegra, though, is not the only reason to visit AlUla. In addition to its stunning tombs, archaeologists are excavating ancient towns and older tombs from the Dedanite and

Curious about exploring the kingdom? This fall, Melissa Biggs Bradley will host two exclusive Insider Journeys to Riyadh, AlUla and Jeddah. You’ll explore these amazing sites and meet with the people who are shaping Saudi Arabia’s future—including the women artisans, engineers and entrepreneurs who are leading the way for generations to come. Learn more and reserve your spot at




Travel with Melissa to Saudi Arabia


Since my last visit, Saudi Arabia has entered into an era of transformation. Not only was I able to wear Western clothing on this trip, but half the guides at Hegra are local women, many of whom have their driver’s licenses and gather after work in the lovely pedestrian-only historic old town in restaurants, where the sexes are no longer segregated.”

The infinity pool at Habitas AlUla. 41


Touring its labyrinthine alleys at dusk, with a flight of doves circling above and a call to prayer in the distance, I could see how tales of mythic Arabian nights of genies and flying carpets originated here. Within the ancient city walls are new museums devoted to the Arabian horse, Saudi history and military, lifestyle and architectural traditions.”



Lihyanite civilizations as well as open-air libraries where rocks are inscribed with ancient writings in Aramaic and early Arabic. The old town of AlUla, dating to the 12th century, is being restored and filled with cafés and local artisan shops, even a stylish nail salon. A few miles away, a museum, which will house the world’s most expensive painting, Leonardo da Vinci’s Salvator Mundi, is rising. The just-created, nearly 600-square-mile Sharaan Nature Reserve has epic desert views, ancient rock drawings and rare sightings of red-necked ostrich, Nubian ibex and Idmi gazelles. In the coming years, it may become the country’s first national park and will also contain endangered Arabian leopards and a hotel carved into the caves designed by Jean Nouvel, architect of the Louvre Abu Dhabi. Among the existing attractions to help lure repeat domestic travelers are a series of cultural festivals that feature concerts by international stars such as Andrea Bocelli, an edition of the contemporary art fair Desert X and pop-up restaurants, including an outpost of Annabel’s from London.


As Vision 2030 gains momentum, so too grows awareness of the many treasures that lie beyond AlUla. In 2008, Hegra was the first UNESCO World Heritage site in Saudi Arabia, but four others have been named since then and another 12 are under consideration. On the outskirts of Riyadh is one: At-Turaif, the ancient seat of the first Saudi dynasty (1744 to 1818) and the largest mud heritage city in the world. Slated to open to the public next fall, the complex of restored mud-brick ruins in traditional Najd-style architecture is billed as an open-air museum. Touring its labyrinthine alleys at dusk, with a flight of doves circling above and a call to prayer in the distance, I could see how tales of mythic Arabian nights of genies and flying carpets originated here. Within the ancient city walls are new museums devoted to the Arabian horse, Saudi history and military, lifestyle and architectural traditions. Saudi Arabia’s past underpins one of the country’s tourism slogans: Journey Through Time. But having preceded my visit to At-Turaif with another to the offices of the man overseeing the brand-new city of Diriyah, which is growing around the heritage site, I felt whiplashed between the past and the future. American Jerry Inzerillo, Group CEO of the Diriyah Development Gate Authority and one of the visionaries behind the Atlantis resorts in the Bahamas and Dubai, has been tasked with creating—from scratch and in record time—what has been dubbed both “the Beverly Hills of Riyadh” and the world’s largest walkable cultural heritage city. The plan for the 11 square kilometers includes one of the Kingdom’s largest parks (seven times the size of Central Park); a boulevard mimicking the ChampsÉlysées, lined with world-class museums, stadiums and theaters; universities; mosques (one with a capacity of

Above: Discovering traditional architecture at the Tayebat Museum in Jeddah. Opposite: An open-air library preserving centuries of rock-carved messages in the Tabuk desert.

14,000); residences for 100,000 people and 38 hotels, including properties by Orient Express and Raffles. With more than 100 dining venues, the retail and entertainment offerings may rival those of Dubai, especially when combined with the other nearby giga-project, Qiddiya in Riyadh, which aims to be the capital of entertainment, sports and the arts. However, the style of Diriyah Gate will be historically sensitive, honoring At-Turaif ’s Najd architecture, so its charm will be more in line with that of Marrakech. Inzerillo predicts that by 2030 Diriyah “will be in the top 10 most-visited cities in the world.” A few days later, I had another bold and innovative glimpse of the future when I visited Neom, “the country within a country” in the northwest of Saudi Arabia. A parcel of 10,000 square miles—similar in size to Massachusetts—fronting the Red Sea, Neom will have 95 percent of its striking landscape preserved for nature. The other five percent will be developed into a series of regions; two have so far been announced: the Line, a 105-square-mile





AlUla’s Maraya Concert Hall, the world’s largest mirrored building. Opposite: UNESCO World Heritage site Al-Balad, Jeddah’s historic center.


“cognitive city” with no cars and zero carbon emissions, and Oxagon, a next-generation industrial city. At Neom base camp, I met one of the world’s experts on artificial snow, who’s been working on a Neom Mountain ski resort. Other teams are focusing on driving a green hydrogen economy and exploring environmental issues—such as how the coral in the Red Sea resists bleaching in high temperatures and whether its cells hold the key to repairing reefs around the world. Today, Neom’s beaches and islands look like the Maldives before tourism. But as awestruck as I was by Saudi Arabia’s natural beauty and past and future visions, it was sharing the present moment of change with the Saudis themselves that left the

greatest impression. Over the course of my career, I have been asked often about my favorite places to travel, and I have answered that traveling to specific moments in time has been more impactful than specific destinations: visiting Vietnam or Cuba when they had just reopened to the West, or South Africa right after apartheid had ended, or China when it abandoned Mao’s Communism or Eastern Europe after the Berlin Wall came down. These experiences allowed me to step into historic events. On this visit to Saudi Arabia, I witnessed a social transformation occurring and discussed it with the residents in real time. In Riyadh, an expat recalled how “soft” the change was for the young generation. (Almost 70 percent of the


One of many staggering ancient Nabataean tombs that can be viewed— sans crowds—at Hegra, AlUla’s most important archaeological site. Opposite, from left: Making new Saudi friends while exploring the Sharaan Nature Reserve; Habitas hotel.

Many changes, of course, will take time to process. Our guide in the Sharaan Reserve spoke of his Bedouin mother, who grew up camping in the same area that he now protects. He explained that she is a bit frustrated that she can no longer sleep beneath familiar rock formations when she



feels like it, but she has helped his fellow guides (and him) get to know the secrets of the area. “She is my Google Earth for the Reserve,” he said, “because she is one of the few who knows the Bedouin names, places and history of the area.” Another guide, one of the roywes, or storytellers, who takes visitors through the cultural sites outside of AlUla, admits that the community didn’t embrace some of the changes right away, like women working. When she first became a guide, she was bullied on Twitter. “But the people started to accept it,” she says. “Now lots of girls want to be tour guides.” Some argue for boycotting the kingdom over its political, economic and social policies, but my many years in the travel business have made me a committed anti-isolationist. Because rather than isolate the citizens of Cuba, Myanmar, Iran or Zimbabwe because of their leaders, I prefer to engage in people-to-people cultural exchange and to see with my own eyes what is rarely represented in the media. Even though I know that what I see is not the full picture. But in conversations with locals in Havana, Bagan and Tehran, I have learned perspectives that never make it into the news and have consistently demonstrated


population is under the age of 40.) “They were 100 percent ready,” she said. “I remember when they announced the end of the mutawa, the religious police. We had the Saudi National Day, and there were bands and big music, and everybody was dancing in the street, young women and young men.” Her eyes widened at the memory of the shift in atmosphere. “It was just so normal,” she laughed. “It was amazing.” She conceded that some older traditionalists mourn the stricter days. “But the young people instantly embraced it.” She was shocked, too, by how seamless it was when women began driving. “When they were talking about women driving,” she said. “I thought it would be a problem, and women will be harassed, but there was not a single incident. And now all the women I know drive.” In fact, every Saudi woman I spoke to had her license, even if one in Jeddah admitted that she still prefers being driven.

What to Know Important Considerations for Travelers to Saudi Arabia

While Saudi Arabia is quickly modernizing, it is still governed by Islamic law, and some cultural norms and policies may conflict with Western perspectives.

how much we as humans have in common, rather than what separates us. To me, travel is the greatest way to promote cross-cultural communication and connection.

•Both men and women, but especially women, are required to dress modestly while in Saudi Arabia. Non-Muslim women are no longer required to wear a headscarf or abaya, but they should keep their chests, arms and legs covered (with hemlines reaching to the wrists and ankles). Clothing should not be too form-fitting. A long-sleeve, crew-neck maxi dress and espadrilles or jeans with a T-shirt, jacket and sneakers are acceptable outfits.


•Alcohol and drugs are strictly prohibited. On my last evening in AlUla, I went up to a rooftop in the old town. I was filming the scene on my iPhone, scanning the sunset as it cast a glow on the mountains, the minaret and the crowds of locals, when I noticed three Saudi women on the street filming me with their iPhones. I waved, amused that we had found each other exotic sights worth capturing. They waved back and one put her hands together to make the shape of a heart. A minute later, after my wave became an invitation, they arrived on the terrace to join me. Residents of Medina and Jeddah, they were visiting AlUla for the first time, so we marveled at the discovery together. A few years ago, they would not have been able to travel without a male chaperone. They were as awed by seeing the old and new treasures of their own country as I was. We exchanged WhatsApp info, as one of the women said she would be soon visiting New York. Before we parted, my guide took a photo of us to capture the moment—four women united by travel.

•Non-heterosexual, non-cisgender identity expression is prohibited in Saudi Arabia. Homosexual activity is criminal in Saudi Arabia. •Public expression that is deemed offensive is criminal in Saudi Arabia and can result in fines or detention. Offensive actions include: consumption of pornographic or sexual material; profane language; public indecency or intoxication; public displays of affection or close physical touch (including holding hands or hugging) between the sexes; criticism or defiance of the Saudi Arabian royal family, government and its laws or politics; and criticism of Islam or promotion of religions that contradict Islam (religious symbols such as the Star of David or the Crucifix should not be shown publicly). •The Saudi government may monitor your Internet activity while you are in the country; precautions should be taken in consideration of the above points. 47

Europe’s Best New Hotels


From a gleaming Modernist resort on the French Riviera to a Loire Valley boutique hotel with culinary cred to a chic revival of Capri’s very first hotel, these are the most stylish new European properties to have on your radar, says Elizabeth Harvey.



Maybourne Riviera Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, French Riviera The star brand behind Claridge’s, the Connaught and the Berkeley in London, as well as the Maybourne Beverly Hills, is expanding into the Mediterranean with the opening of Maybourne Riviera, in the picturesque town of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. Perched on a cliffside overlooking the sea, with Italy to the east and Monte Carlo to the west, this modernist resort combines timeless glamour and laid-back coastal living with vibrant contemporary high-design. The 79 rooms and suites and public spaces were created in collaboration with local artisans as well as such global talents as André Fu, Bryan O’Sullivan Studio, Marcelo Joulia, Pierre Yovanovitch, Pascal Goujon and Rigby & Rigby— and the dining program was conceived by Mauro Colagreco (of the three-Michelin-starred Mirazur), Jean-Georges Vongerichten and the Japanese chef Hiro Sato. And, of course, the Riviera Playa beach club is not to be missed. Open now.







Passalacqua Lake Como, Lombardy

If you’re dreaming of somewhere in northern Italy, Lake Como’s iconic Grand Hotel Tremezzo will welcome a sister resort just in time for the summer season. This 18th-century private villa sits on land that was originally owned by Pope Innocent XI. The home has welcomed such visitors as Napoleon, Bellini (who composed two of his most famous operas, La Sonnambula and Norma, here) and Winston Churchill. Now, under the stewardship of Paolo, Antonella and Valentina De Santis, Passalacqua will continue to offer a refined yet warm experience of northern Italian charms, with all the expected trappings (a lakeside tennis court, swimming pool and vintage boats) and just 24 suites, which feature restored frescoes, Verona marble bathrooms and views of citrus gardens, olive groves and emerald shores. If you’re lucky, you’ll manage to secure the Bellini suite—the largest suite on the entire lake—where the master preferred to practice the piano. Opens June 2022.




Hotel La Palma Capri, Campania


Capri’s very first hotel—built in 1822, just steps from the iconic Piazzetta—is being revitalized for the 21st century under the expert care of the Oetker Collection (the brand behind such stellar properties as Le Bristol and Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc). With interiors by local fixtures Francis Sultana and Francesco Delogu, and 50 keys (each unlocking its own balcony or terrace), a rooftop restaurant, a private beach club and pool deck, a spa and a curation of boutiques, Hotel La Palma is poised to once again become the elegant, exclusive hub that, in its golden age, used to attract poets, artists and quaintrelles. Opens Summer 2022.



Fleur de Loire Blois, Loire Valley


This culinary-focused boutique hotel opening in the heart of the Loire Valley is the latest creation from the two-Michelin-starred chef Christophe Hay of La Maison d’à Côté. The project is equally focused on cuisine and sustainability, putting eco-friendly practices like rainwater collection, wind-powered energy and zero-waste kitchen design at its center— along with cultivating extensive gardens along the Blois-Vienne riverbank, including an asparagus conservatory and an apple conservatory with the intent to re-establish the historic rose apple. The property, which is housed within the former estate of King Louis XIII’s brother, will offer 44 rooms and suites, plus two restaurants, a swimming pool and Sisley spa. Opens June 2022.



Cashel Palace Cashel, County Tipperary

Cashel Palace presents a new addition to Ireland’s restored manor hotels. Just a short walk from a significant medieval fortress—the Rock of Cashel— Cashel Palace is likewise steeped in history. It was built in 1732 for the Church of Ireland archbishop and designed by celebrated architect Sir Edward Lovett Pearce; another name attached to the property was Richard Guinness, the brewmaster whose son would go on to found the namesake brewery. The manor became a luxury hotel in 1962, playing host to such icons as Elizabeth Taylor and Princess Diana, and it has now been given a new lease on life as a Relais & Châteaux member, with 42 rooms, three acres of walled gardens, a spa (including alfresco seaweed soaking baths) and a world-class equestrian program. Open now. CASHEL PALACE








The arrival of Sommerro, an Art Deco design hotel in Oslo, may just tempt you to plan a Scandinavian getaway. The 231-room property is slated to be Norway’s largest preservation project, as the hotel will restore the former headquarters of Oslo’s electrical company. The new interiors, which include details like elaborate bed frames and textiles inspired by Gerhard Munthe paintings, were imagined by GrecoDeco’s Adam Greco and Alice Lund. Dining will be a highlight, with notable venues including Nordic-Japanese restaurant TAK and Barramon, an outpost of Oslo’s tapas hot spot. There will also be a theater, an underground spa and a year-round rooftop pool. An ultra-private accommodation, Villa Inkognito, is set to open in March 2023. Opens September 2022.


Animal Kingdom On a long-planned family trip to the Galápagos Islands by boat (and seven days without Wi-Fi),Indagare’s Elise Bronzo goes in search of the elusive blue-footed booby and experiences otherworldly close encounters of the best kind.


Exploring the Galápagos by boat. Opposite: A redfooted booby on Floreana Island.




Left: Indagare’s Elise Bronzo and her family with a red-footed booby. Below: A dolphin skull found on the shores of Genovesa Island. Opposite: The Evolution at sunset.


o tell us, why the Galápagos? Long before the age of Instagram, my mother, brother and I would cut out photos from National Geographic of blue-footed boobies and stick them on our corkboard in the kitchen. For us, Galápagos wasn’t only a bucket list trip but a source of family idioms (“be the booby!” is our equivalent of “break a leg”) and it was a naturalist pilgrimage that we vowed to take together. Our trip was booked for May 2020—the optimal time to see the BFB mating dance—and like many other travelers, we had to postpone. Fortunately, Quasar Expeditions permitted us to maintain our credit and rebook aboard their luxurious (and, naturally, fittingly named) fishing-vessel-turnedyacht, the Evolution. So for seven days last fall, we cruised around 12 of the archipelago’s islands, learning about the intricacies of the volcanic landscape, Darwin’s finches and local culture from our Ecuadorian naturalist guides. At each stop, we boarded top-of-the-line Zodiacs and set out for the day’s adventures, which took us from lush mangrove forests to stark lava fields and shark-dwelling caves. After each excursion, we were met with delicious snacks and refreshments or an extravagant multicourse meal before we had to make the difficult choice between taking a dip in the hot tub, standing watch on the bow for a pod of dolphins or reading a book in the breezy, alfresco lounge while we transited to our next stop.



How does the Galápagos compare to other wildlife trips, like safari in Africa? On safari, there are real dangers to be aware of, which is part of the mystique—and due to poaching, hunting and the dense population of predators, the animals can be skittish and difficult to spot because camouflage is a survival tactic. In the Galápagos, it’s a completely different story: boobies, marine iguanas and sea lions will waddle right up to you to see what’s going on—it’s thrilling and a little shocking! The Galápagos is a national park with strictly marked paths on each island. The animals, however, curious about their visitors, don’t follow any restrictions. While he was lounging on the beach, my brother received a knee kiss from a sea lion pup, and a penguin on the prowl darted by my head while I was snorkeling in the shallows. There isn’t another place in the world where you can coexist with animals so intimately for extended periods of time. The closest I’ve come is gorilla-trekking in Rwanda, but you’re limited to a one-hour interaction (for good reason).


For seven days, we cruised around 12 of the archipelago’s islands, learning about the intricacies of the volcanic landscape, Darwin’s finches and local culture from our Ecuadorian naturalist guides.”


Elise and her brother under a 200-year-old cactus tree. Opposite, from left: Elise’s mom and brother exploring at golden hour; sea lions napping on the shores of Post Office Bay.



What surprised you most about the trip? The dramatic landscape: black lava rock covered in bright green moss speckled with vibrant red Sally Lightfoot crabs, surrounded by Caribbean-turquoise water. Many parts of the region were reminiscent of Hawaii. Also, the food on the boat was superb. I’m still thinking about a lemon meringue dessert we had for lunch one day—both servings. Divine! Favorite trip highlight? It’s hard to pick just one. Overall, it was spending seven days without Internet with my mom and brother. That and snorkeling with sea lion pups and turtles. On our last day, a herd of sea lion pups approached our group with playful intensity, taking turns nibbling and tugging at our flippers. My brother started to mirror their movements, flipping and spinning. As we followed suit, the pups challenged us to more advanced choreography, somersaulting faster to see if we could keep up. We couldn’t. My laughter was muffled by my mask, and I was so present that I almost forgot to come back up for air. In a nutshell, that’s what makes the Galápagos special: the return to childlike wonderment. The animals give you permission to play. They remind you that it is an essential part of being. You dreamed of blue-footed boobies for years and they weren’t the highlight? That was the funny thing! We were so caught up in observing the differences between Darwin’s finches and watching male frigate birds inflate their throat pouches during their mating ritual that we didn’t realize we hadn’t seen many blue-footed boobies until we were on the way home. That’s the power of travel: when you leave your expectations behind, the experience that’s meant for you awaits.

Travel Tips 1

Book one year in advance to secure your preferred itinerary. Due to the pandemic, Covid credits for trips to the Galápagos mean slim availability, but last-minute spots do open up for those who can be flexible.


While there are some fabulous lodges in the Galápagos, to have a varied experience, it’s best to go by boat. Private charters and small yachts with a maximum capacity of 16 to 32 guests are the best options. For those prone to seasickness, book suites on the main deck to experience less movement and noise from the anchor and engine.


Plan to visit Mashpi Lodge in the rain forest before getting on a boat (you may have sea legs after a cruise). It’s a lovely, intimate eco-lodge in a lush private reserve that’s teeming with endemic wildlife and waterfalls.


Follow our packing list closely. You will need a full-body swimsuit because the water is chilly and it makes wet suit dressing easier.


There’s no Wi-Fi on the boat, so embrace it and bring a journal to record your animal interactions.

LET US DESIGN YOUR GALÁPAGOS TRIP Call us at 212-988-2611 or visit to plan the Galápagos itinerary that’s best for you.


Epic Family Trips


We asked members of our team to share a few of the extraordinary experiences they curate for families to some of the most beloved destinations—and why you’ll love them, too. Here are their picks for ideal itineraries—from the wilds of Chile and the Serengeti plains to the California coast. Plus: Expert, tried-and-true tips on what not to miss for making seriously memorable moments.





Why go: In the summer months, Greece offers the perfect escape for families. From history-rich cities to islands where one can indulge in seaside relaxation, Greece caters to those who want stimulation and to those who wish to truly unplug.

Length of trip: Eight to 12 nights Recommended itinerary: Two nights in Athens, three in Santorini, three in Mykonos and four at Amanzoe on the Peloponnese

Hotels to book: In Athens, Four Seasons

Astir Palace; in Santorini, Canaves Suites; in Mykonos, Santa Marina; in Porto Heli, Amanzoe

Who it’s best for: Families with older

children, multiple families traveling together or a group of friends

Don’t miss: A private boat charter


between Santorini and Mykonos, with stops on Delos and Rineia; Scorpios and Nammos beach club days in Mykonos; a sunset cruise overlooking the caldera in Santorini and day trips from Amanzoe (Spetses and Hydra by boat and Nauplia and Mycenae by car). For more Mykonos advice, see page 11.


Why go: The South of France has something for everyone— from glamorous seaside resorts to charming hilltop villages.

Recommended itinerary: A combination of time in

Provence (four days) and the French Riviera (five days)—or opt to stay in the French Riviera for the entire trip.

Length of trip: Nine days Hotels to book: Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, La Reserve Ramatuelle, Cheval Blanc St-Tropez

Who it’s best for: Families who no longer need a stroller, but - THE TRIP -



even young children can enjoy the charming towns and the pool and beach aspect.

Top activity: A full-day boat charter with a stop for lunch at La Guérite is a must. Or an afternoon strolling the cobblestoned streets of the hilltop village of Èze.

Favorite moment: A leisurely family lunch by the water in St.-Tropez.


“Berlin is a city that seems in constant change, with history, a famous nightlife and cultural scene, fantastic museums and experimental art! Take in the views from the Reichstag, explore Prenzlauer Berg’s cafés and boutiques, visit the Boros Foundation art gallery, the Brandenburg Gate and the Holocaust Memorial and add days on the lakes in summer.”—LIONEL BROWN, TRIP DESIGNER





“The indisputable draw is the opportunity to spend time with the mountain gorillas in Volcanoes National Park. Spend one to two nights in Kigali followed by a three-night stay just outside of Volcanoes National Park, plus, take in Nyungwe Forest National Park and Akagera National Park to round out a biodiverse and in-depth itinerary.”—CHARLOTTE CLAYSON, TRIP DESIGNER

Why go: Patagonia offers a trip of a lifetime across some of the world’s most dramatic landscapes—comprising bright-blue glacial lakes, plentiful wildlife and snowcapped peaks often shrouded in clouds. Plus, the excursions, which range from trekking to fly-fishing and horseback riding, are varied enough to please travelers of all ages and interests.

Recommended itinerary: Two nights in Puerto Natales and four nights near Torres del Paine National Park

Length of trip: Six nights in Patagonia, plus a night or two in Santiago. If time allows, three more days in the Atacama Desert!

Hotels to book: The Singular, Awasi Patagonia, Tierra Patagonia - THE TRIP -


Who it’s best for: Active families and couples, enthusiasts of the great outdoors, nature lovers—and those who love epic views

Insider tip: It’s worth staying at the Singular Patagonia in Puerto

Natales for two nights to experience the property’s boat excursion to fjords and glaciers, followed by an afternoon at Singular’s private estancia.

Favorite moment: After a long and beautiful day hiking the iconic Base of the Towers trek, taking in the views of the Paine Massif while floating in Tierra Patagonia’s hot tub.


CONTACT US Contact your Trip Designer for help booking one of these trips, or for more ideas for future trips that are right for you. Indagare can also help you navigate Covid protocols, travel insurance and more; contact your Trip Designer or visit

Why go: Tanzania offers a blend of landscapes, accommodations

that range from bare-bones camps to the most luxurious lodges and incredible game viewing, with a glimpse of the unique Great Migration.

Recommended itinerary: Spend one night in Arusha, then

go to the Ngorongoro Crater and then stay under canvas in Serengeti National Park. End your safari at a luxury camp in the Grumeti or Maswa Reserves and cap off your trip relaxing on the beaches of Zanzibar.

Length of trip: Eight to 12 nights Lodges to book: The Singita properties (Sabora, Sasakwa, Faru

Faru, and Explore), Mwiba, Chem Chem, andBeyond Serengeti Under Canvas, Legendary Lodge and andBeyond Mnemba Island

Don’t miss: A scenic private helicopter trip from Serengeti National - THE TRIP -



Park to Lake Eyasi, within East Africa’s Great Rift Valley, where thousands of flamingos take flight beneath you.

Favorite moment: With Singita Sabora still in sight in the

distance, an entire pride of lionesses and cubs padded around our car. The world seemed to hold its breath for a moment as more than 20 of these magnificent predators walked within feet of our seats.


“Mexico is a relatively easy-to-get-to destination that feels vibrant, foreign and fun! Go for two to three days in Mexico City, two to three days in San Miguel de Allende and three days on the beach. Be sure to explore the colorful and beautiful Frida Kahlo House in Mexico City.”—SAM DORAN, TRIP DESIGNER





“You don’t necessarily need to travel far afield to experience stunning, natural beauty. Start with two to three days in San Francisco and then drive California’s epic coastline and enjoy two to three days hiking in Big Sur or Carmel and three days in L.A. or Santa Barbara. You’ll feel like you’re on the edge of the world at these seaside natural wonders.”—STEFFI FITZPATRICK, TRIP DESIGNER

Why go: Croatia has over 1,000 stunning islands to explore by boat and

history-rich cities like Dubrovnik. Many islands feel untouched, though you do have ones such as Hvar with fun restaurants and nightlife. Families have access to water-based activities and exploration each time the boat anchors.

Fun fact: Much of Game of Thrones was filmed in Dubrovnik. Recommended itinerary: Seven nights on a boat. At the start (and the end), spend one night in Split and two nights in Dubrovnik.

Length of trip: 10 days Who it’s best for: Families who want to be on the water - THE TRIP -



Don’t miss: Zori for dinner, in Hvar; near Dubrovnik, you can tour the

Pelješac region, famous for its oysters. Start with a drive along the coast to the town of Ston. After a short walking tour, you will embark on a fishing boat for a sail on the bay before tasting oysters, mussels and local wine.

Favorite memory: Waking up each morning for a swim before we departed for our next island—and sunsets each evening on the water.


“Egypt is the greatest show on earth, an epic trip for all ages—temples and tombs, museums, mummies and more! Spend at least seven nights (two or three in Cairo, followed by four or five nights on a boat on the Nile) traveling from Aswan to Luxor. A private meeting with showman archaeologist Dr. Zahi Hawass is a must.”—JOHN CANTRELL, DESTINATIONS DIRECTOR


Between the Earth and Sky


A new resort with historic roots is inviting travelers to experience—or rediscover—an underrated American treasure: Santa Fe. Elizabeth Harvey reports.

A lounge area at Bishop’s Lodge. Opposite: A courtyard at Georgia O’Keeffe’s Abiquiú studio.



A living room in Georgia O’Keeffe’s Abiquiú studio. Clockwise from above left: A firepit at Bishop’s Lodge; Sante Fe architecture; a bedroom at Bishop’s Lodge; mosiac tilework.




HERE THE SANGRE DE CRISTO mountains meet the foothills of the southern Rockies, rust-colored mesas, mauve ridges and sprawling sagebrush sweep over the space between the earth and sky that comprises New Mexico—and just east of where the Rio Grande cuts through the land lies a cluster of flat-roofed adobe homes, Gothic cathedrals and plazas draped in twinkling lights: Santa Fe. While this city of “Sacred Faith,” today nicknamed “The City Different,” was on my radar as a charming and creative artists’ hub with vibrant food and festival scenes, it was not, admittedly, at the top of my travel list. But when Omicron derailed holiday plans to visit Scandinavia, I found myself shelving visions of snow-dusted cobblestones and mulled wine by the fire to make space for the promise of chile margaritas sipped side-saddle on a saloon barstool and strolling along the glowing orange lanterns of the famous Christmas farolitos. After two years of living and traveling in a pandemic, I’ve learned to embrace the advantages that spontaneous trips can afford. Upon arrival, I began to feel increasingly foolish for how little I knew about how much Santa Fe has to offer. Beyond the artsy-chic aesthetic, cowboy glamour and generally pleasant year-round weather—and that ever-alluring romance that beckons every American at one point or another to go west—Santa Fe is heavy with history and culture. It’s defined by a multiethnic legacy that can be found in few other places in the country. Founded between 1607 and 1610, Santa Fe is the oldest capital in the U.S. and our second-oldest city overall (preceded only by St. Augustine, Florida). Its colonization under the Spanish Empire and its proximity to present-day Mexico make the place feel foreign—especially to East Coasters like myself—and that seemed peculiar, until I recalled that New Mexico only became a U.S. state in 1912. In moments, looking at the Spanish street signs and plazas, I could have imagined myself to be in Sevilla or San Miguel de Allende, but every glimpse of the purple mountain majesties in the distance was a reminder that these lands were first inhabited by the Navajo, the Apache, the Hopi, the Pueblos and their ancestors. Their descendants continue to live in Sante Fe and sovereign territories nearby, and their influence is everywhere. How all of this—the Native American, the Mexican and the Spanish—came to be wrapped up together in the star-spangled banner is a chapter of history that visitors must contend with; nonetheless, the result is a multilayered and beautiful thing.


Pulitzer family’s), the property has been reborn through a $75 million renovation and restoration led by Dallas’s Nunzio Marc DeSantis Architects and designers Mary Alice Palmer and Natalie Smith.

In town, these are the names to know:

Geronimo: Excellent New American in a 250-yearold landmark adobe building on Canyon Road Sazón: Contemporary Latin American cuisine from Mexico City–born chef Fernando Olea, nominated this year for a James Beard Award Arroyo Vino: A farm-to-table bistro and wine shop a short drive from town Restaurant Martín: Elevated regional cuisine from legendary Santa Fe chef Martín Rios Paloma: Mexican plates and cocktails in a vibrant, relaxed space La Boca: Spanish tapas and wine bar, with live music events Radish & Rye: Fresh flavors from the garden and an extensive bourbon menu The Shed: A casual Santa Fe classic (walk-in only–go early!) Cafe Pasqual’s: Another Santa Fe institution serving Mexican fare in a ​​historic adobe building

Although Santa Fe contains much to fascinate across interests, it has lacked a wealth of luxury hotels, with travelers choosing between the Rosewood Inn of the Anasazi, which opened in 1990 on the main plaza, and the Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado, which was established in 2012 in an enclave just north of town. Now, an opening from Auberge Resorts Collection is providing a new contemporary retreat. Bishop’s Lodge launched last summer on 317 acres bordering the Santa Fe National Forest, less than 10 minutes by car from downtown, on a 19th-century estate that was cultivated by the Archbishop Jean-Baptiste Lamy. After passing through many hands (including the



The beating heart of the property—and the place where I found myself whiling away the hours—is the main lodge, where a large hearth, cushy armchairs and a pair of olive-green velvet couches invite card games, reading and chats with fellow guests over craft mezcal cocktails. It is here that a hungry traveler will also find the SkyFire restaurant. Design touches like exposed wood beams, thick tavern tables, bunches of mountain wildflowers and custom ceramics from local brand Whiskey + Clay give the space an immediate intimacy that is bolstered by the kind and personable staff. Another standout is the curation of artwork, including early- and mid-20th-century pieces from the property’s original collection. Highlights include prints from Santa Fe icon Gustave Baumann and a series of large oil paintings depicting Pueblo life by Warren Eliphalet Rollins, the first recorded artist to have a formal exhibition in Santa Fe. According to local legend, Rollins offered the paintings to the estate in lieu of payment for his lodgings—and today they stir the spirit with the same energy that vibrates in the murals of Rivera, Siqueiros and Orozco, his celebrated Mexican contemporaries. Equally energetic is the cuisine from chef Pablo Peñalosa, whose résumé includes time in Mexico City (his hometown), Catalunya and San Sebastián, with stints at El Celler de Can Roca and Martín Berasategui, both of which have earned three Michelin stars. The menu reflects Southwestern and Santa Fe traditions, with international and farm-to-table influences, featuring dishes like buffalo


Santa Fe Top Tables

With a terraced layout that evokes the Lodge at Blue Sky, its modern sister in Utah, Bishop’s Lodge consists of adobe buildings, as well as the original chapel, accommodating 100 guest rooms, suites and three- and four-bedroom casitas. Interiors emphasize Native American design, with white-clay kiva fireplaces, sturdy wood and leather furnishings and covetable Navajo rugs (which can be found in town at galleries like Shiprock and Malouf on the Plaza). Guests who are willing to conquer a steep hill to reach their rooms will be rewarded by the Kivas: three 750-square-foot, stand-alone suites that have private outdoor plunge pools overlooking the resort to the mountains (one of the best views on-property). Meanwhile, multigenerational families will find their home-away-from-home in the 12-bedroom reclaimed barnwood Bunkhouse, with vaulted ceilings that fit a two-story stone fireplace and great room (and 24 adults, and up to 12 children).

The hearth at Bishop’s Lodge. Opposite: Shrimp tacos at SkyFire, the Bishop’s Lodge restaurant.


tenderloin with Yukon Gold purée, cauliflower adovada with salsa verde, hamachi, coconut and ginger ceviche and rustic Italian pastas. Though I loved exploring Santa Fe’s dynamic restaurant scene, more than once, I found myself opting to return “home” to try something new—and for yet another pairing by the tiny but formidable sommelier and wine director, Ella Raymont (who all but ruined other white wines for me with the introduction of a perfectly balanced, bright skin-contact Pinot Grigio from Collio producer Venica & Venica). And those seeking Santa Fe’s famous chiles will not be disappointed here: in addition to serving the classic red and green rivals (as well as a long list of hot sauces of diverse provenance and heat), the restaurant also advertises the unique services of a “Chile Host,” who can curate pepper pairings to taste. Beyond the dining room, Bishop’s Lodge hosts a variety of experiences, from hiking, mountain biking, fly-fishing and horseback riding to massages or meditative drumming at the spa, outdoor mindfulness sessions, raku pottery and watercolor classes and chocolate tastings. A quick trip downtown brings guests to the densest concentration of art galleries in the world, with 250 in just two square miles along the famed Canyon Road, as well as prime shopping (this is the place to amass a Western-glam wardrobe) and over 20 museums. While there are several excellent collections to explore, including the Museum of International Folk Art and the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, the most sought-after is undoubtedly the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Opened in 1997, just over a decade after the Modernist artist’s death, the museum celebrates O’Keeffe’s body of work and her deep connection to New Mexico. In addition to inspiring some of her most celebrated paintings—such as Ram’s Head, White Hollyhock-Hills—Santa Fe and its surrounds were O’Keeffe’s refuge, and she maintained two homes here during her lifetime—in Abiquiú and at the edge of the 21,000-acre Ghost Ranch. The Abiquiú studio is open to the public; plus, the museum recently announced plans for an ambitious 54,000-square-foot facility, to be complete by the end of 2025, which will enable a greater display of the collection and rotating exhibitions of diverse artists, as well as integrated community programming. Why has this area become such a muse for so many creatives over generations? Georgia O’Keeffe shared her answer in the March 4, 1974, issue of The New Yorker in an interview with Calvin Tomkins: “It was the shapes of the hills there that fascinated me[.] The reddish sand hills with the dark mesas behind them. It seemed as though no matter how far you walked you could never get into those dark hills, although I walked great distances.” For all its culture, Santa Fe is still a wild place, with areas of



Beyond the artsy-chic aesthetic, cowboy glamour and generally pleasant year-round weather— and that ever-alluring romance that beckons every American at one point or another to go west— Santa Fe is heavy with history and culture.”

harsh topography where elk, mountain lions, coyotes, rattlesnakes, golden eagles and peregrine falcons rule over forests of piñon pine and juniper, fighting upward along rugged escarpments. The land’s contours are windwhipped and ethereal, and the unique composition of the rock—the result of a prehistoric volcanic eruption—makes the canyons malleable, creating mysterious patterns of holes that were later carved out by the early Pueblos into dwellings. These nomadic communities grew into sophisticated cities that were immaculately planned in alignment with the movements of the planets and the stars—a staggering example of citywide time- and calendar-keeping. One of the finest places to marvel at this phenomenon is Bandelier National Monument, an hour’s drive west of Bishop’s Lodge. As my guide conveyed the history of these Pueblos—pointing out narrow paths etched along the cliffs, trodden by a people who must have been very deft-footed—I once again felt humbled by my ignorance of the significance of this region. I learned that Bandelier, and

Left to right: Downtown Santa Fe; an art gallery on Canyon Road.


New Mexico at large, contain some of the earliest evidence of human presence in the Americas. I also discovered that Santa Fe is the site of the only successful Native uprising to occur against a colonizing power in North America. After suffering years of increasing oppression, forced conversion and massacre, the Pueblo tribes united in 1680 in a coordinated attack that drove the Spanish out of Santa Fe for 12 years. Although they were eventually reconquered, the revolt empowered the Pueblos to negotiate land grants and a greater degree of political and religious freedom. It is because of this that the Pueblo tribes are said to be the only indigenous peoples in the U.S. today who were never displaced from their ancestral lands. Over the course of my weeklong stay at Bishop’s Lodge, I felt the force of Santa Fe that has moved so many others beginning to exert a pull on me, as well. I was burned out by a long year of feigned normalcy—and by finding myself, seemingly, right back where I started one year prior: border-bound by the outbreak of another variant. As I felt my

curiosity, and hope, coming back to life, I asked myself: What is it about this place? Georgia O’Keeffe may have said it was the vistas—but she moved to Santa Fe with the aim of resuming her painting, after spending over a year fighting depression and hospitalization, because she had discovered that her husband and collaborator, Arthur Stieglitz, was having an affair. What she really found in those hills, as the Pueblos did before her, was a stronghold of resilience. It’s a sacred faith that burns there—somewhere between the earth and sky.

LET US PLAN YOUR TRIP TO SANTA FE Contact your Trip Designer or email bookings@ to inquire about planning a visit to Bishop’s Lodge in Santa Fe. Our team can help secure the right rooms for you, provide restaurant and touring recommendations and more.


Where We Traveled


We believe that how you travel matters, and we remain committed to ensuring that your travels are as safe, responsible and meaningful as possible. Here’s a look at where some of our members and our team have ventured to recently—and where we’re headed next.



Anniversary in Italy THE DESTINATION: Amalfi Coast, Capri and Rome THE TRIP:

“Let me just say, this felt like a too-good-to-be-true trip. Each spot was incredible in its own way. Pompeii was wonderful (if hot and tiring), and we loved the stop at Bosco de Medici for wine and lunch—the vineyard had recently discovered ruins from Pompeii! The service at Il San Pietro was fantastic, and the meals were probably some of the best of the trip. Capri was definitely a favorite. We started early so we had the town to ourselves, and lunch at La Fontelina was delicious—we could have stayed all day! Hotel Eden’s location was perfect to see Rome, and the guide we had on the last day was incredible, so knowledgeable about history and geography. Overall, the trip was just incredible. After each leg we’d say ‘which did you like better?’ and honestly, we couldn’t decide.”—Alison and Billy Garrett, Indagare members since 2019


Where We Traveled

Multi-gen Adventure THE DESTINATION: Blackberry Mountain THE TRIP:

“Blackberry Mountain lives up to its reputation—all 10 of us loved it! The place itself is stunning and no matter how many people were there, it was never overwhelming. The service is tremendous from the moment you check in… We loved shooting, archery, bouldering and hiking, and found the guides very helpful. The kids thoroughly enjoyed the giant slide at the pond, and the food was incredible. The vegan and gluten-free menus were as impressive as the full menus— nobody felt they were missing out.”—Indagare member since 2017

Central American Engagement THE DESTINATION: Costa Rica THE TRIP:

“While working remotely during the pandemic, my partner and I began to reevaluate what was important in our lives. We decided to get rid of our apartment in New York and move to Costa Rica for a while. I didn’t tell her what else I was reevaluating. We spent Thanksgiving on the slopes of the volcano Arenal, and as the sun was setting, I got down on one knee and asked her to marry me. She says she was about 85 percent surprised, but it’s hard not to suspect something might be happening on such a beautiful occasion.” —Colin Heinrich, Indagare Impact Manager



Father-Son Getaway THE DESTINATION: Taylor River Lodge, Colorado THE TRIP:

“Overall, it was terrific. The boys had an amazing time in Colorado and haven’t stopped talking about our next trip. The staff and facilities at Taylor River Lodge were fantastic. The boys loved the rafting, and fishing was a life-changing event for them. The cabin was great and very comfortable for the three of us. All of the guides were very friendly, and the boys really, really liked having them around, and the nighttime firepits and s’mores were wonderful.”—Al Patel, Indagare member since 2021

Girls’ Scouting Trip THE DESTINATION: Swedish Lapland THE TRIP:

“We arrived in the Sápmi region on Sunday night. Our expectations were loose, since we had been warned by many that regardless of the forecast, the aurora borealis is never guaranteed. Just before heading to bed around midnight, we turned out the lights and noticed a faint, cloudy body of light hovering above the treeline, due north. We zipped fleece-lined layers over our pajamas and shuffled out into the fresh snow, letting our eyes adjust to the darkness as the lime-green, purple and white dancing lights came into focus. Standing in the arctic air as long as we could, we removed our hands from our gloves quickly to take photos before running back inside to defrost them by the fire. For the next 2.5 hours, we fell into a strict rhythm: run outside, stare, squeal, snap, retreat, warm up, repeat.” —Indagare’s Elise Bronzo and Diana Li

For help with booking trips like these, navigating Covid protocols, travel insurance and more, contact your Trip Designer or visit


Where We Traveled

Family Safari Sojourn THE DESTINATION: South Africa THE TRIP:

“Once the borders opened, we jumped to rebook our Cape Town trip. It was exciting to travel again, and for once, running into another American was rare! Most visitors were from South Africa. The Mount Nelson Hotel was an ideal location to explore the city! Cape Winelands wasn’t originally in the plan, but was a great suggestion, as Babylonstoren was one of the more unique places we’ve stayed: a cottage in a lush, dramatic valley. There was something so magical about it, the kids were inspired to get up at 7:00 a.m. to harvest vegetables and eggs right outside our door and make us breakfast in the kitchen.” —The Smith Family, Indagare members since 2020

Mother-Daughter Dream THE DESTINATION: Egypt THE TRIP:

“The Valley of the Kings defies description. We left Luxor to find ourselves in a riverside pastoral. Farmers in djellabas buzzed past us, taking crops to market; women in hijabs walked children to school. Entering the valley you sensed an energetic shift—the spirits of the pharaohs demand your attention. Entryways dotted the mountainside, beckoning explorers in, as they have for centuries. What from afar seemed to be a rise and fall of sand and rock was clearly a holy place—and once it’s seen, is unforgettable.”—Catherine Makk, Indagare member since 2017




“My villa is a must for hippo lovers! But beware, they bellow and cavort all night. I can fall asleep anywhere, anytime, so I was in heaven. It was the only villa with a direct view to those delightful beasts. The villas are exceptional—copper bathtubs and sinks—and attention to quality details was very appreciated. The draw here is the chef! He is a gem. The sophisticated presentation, the quality of the food, the freshness, all exceptional… The whole trip (all nine flight connections notwithstanding) was mind-blowing! A single older female can do this remarkable trip and feel coddled and safe at all times.”—Lisa Mossy, Indagare member since 2019

Where we’re headed next… Angela Denny, Trip Designer: Maldives Ali Malecka, Membership Associate: South Africa Meg Coy, Travel Operations Assistant: Paris and London Sasha Feldman, Bookings Director: Botswana, Aspen, Colorado, and Sea Island, Georgia Sarah Levine, Industry Partnerships Manager: Thailand Bridget McElroy, Global Experience Production Associate: Zimbabwe and Washington, D.C.


Why Travel with Indagare OUR STYLE



Our goal is to make every journey unforgettable. We get to know you personally, in order to build a relationship with you and craft custom itineraries around your interests and passions to maximize your travel experiences and help you map your lifetime of travel journeys.

Our Trip Designers and staff are on the road as often as possible, so we can advise you thoughtfully with reliable, firsthand information to help you make informed decisions. We share real-time intel and feedback with our community, so you always have the best information to go on.

Meaningful interactions with our team guide you before, during and after a trip, allowing you to travel safely and responsibly. We include perks and access to the best rooms, villas and upgrades through long-standing relationships and open doors to experiences that are right for you.

Bespoke Travel | Insider Journeys | Safaris | Family Trips | Celebrations | Sabbaticals

Let us help you make the most of your next trip. | 212-988-2611| 82




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