English Heritage Members' Magazine, Summer 2023

If you’re starting to plan summer adventures, you’ll find plenty of inspiration in this issue. On page 6, you can see the new gatehouse at Richborough Roman Fort in Kent, while on page 20, you can read about the transformations that have taken place at Belsay Hall, Castle and Gardens in Northumberland to conserve its buildings and create new experiences. We’ve also got guides to our family-friendly castles on page 30 and our prehistoric stone circles on

page 48. Wherever your travels take you, don’t forget to make the most of our ‘kids eat free’ offer (page 18). This is the last time I’ll introduce the magazine. I’m moving on from my role after eight wonderful years, giving me the chance to enjoy and support the charity’s work as a Member, with all the benefits that entails! Thank you for all the encouragement you’ve given us during my time here.

Kate Mavor Chief Executive

For Our Media

Group editor Matt Havercroft

Managing editor Oliver Hurley

Senior art editor Steve Gotobed

Account director Esther Procee

Dr Andrew Hann

Properties historians’ team leader

On page 13, Andrew explains how we’re bringing the stories of ordinary people to life

Get in touch

W www.english-heritage.org.uk/members

E membersmagazine@ourmedia.co.uk (for magazine queries only) or members@english-heritage.org.uk (for membership queries and changes of address)

T 0370 333 1181

PO Box 569, Swindon, SN2 2YP

For English Heritage

Louise Dando, Johanna Lovesey, Tom Dennis, Tony Dike, Tersia Boorer, Tom Moriarty, Richard Leatherdale

Account manager Joanne Robinson

Account executive Kajal Grant-Hindocha

Director Julie Williams

Editorial director Dan Linstead

Design director Will Slater

Consultant editor Dave Musgrove

Advertising manager Jamie Bolton

E jamie.bolton@ourmedia.co.uk

Contributors

Andrew Hann, Paul Pattison, Howard Spencer, Judy Armstrong, Kelly Ray, Stuart Heritage, Peter Moore, Jennifer Wexler, Harriet Cooper, Anita Anand

English Heritage Members’ Magazine is published three times a year, in March, July and October, on behalf of English Heritage by Our Media, Eagle House, Bristol, BS1 4ST

T 0117 927 9009 W www.ourmedia.co.uk

Support us

English Heritage is a charity. Without the support of our Members and donors, our work would not be possible. To find out more about how you can help by making a donation or leaving a gift in your will, please visit www.english-heritage.org.uk/support-us or call the fundraising team on 020 7973 3797.

English Heritage cares for more than 400 historic monuments, buildings and places –from world-famous prehistoric sites to grand medieval castles, and from Roman forts on

Dr Peter Moore

Curator of collections and interiors

Peter reveals the story of some rare wallpaper at Wrest Park in Bedfordshire on page 44

Dr Jennifer Wexler

Properties historian (prehistory) Jennifer shares the stories of a selection of our stone circles and henges – see page 48

the edges of the empire to Cold War bunkers. Through these we bring the Story of England to life for more than 10 million visitors each year.

Registered charity no. 1140351 (England)

Registered company no. 07447221 (England)

Product code: 200821

January to December 2022: 488,638

Get ready for a summer of new openings, great value days out and exciting events

‘The Knights’Tournament is a day-long medieval combat event for the crowds at English Heritage sites’

20 New this season Belsay Awakes

See the results of our two-year project to transform Belsay Hall, Castle and Gardens

30 Great days out Family-friendly fortresses

Plan summer days out at the best castles to explore with your kids

38 Behind the scenes Knights in training

Find out what goes into performing in our spectacular medieval knights events

48 Stories of England Land of the ancients

Discover the stories of some of our must-see prehistoric henges and stone circles

52

Expert care

Orford Castle conservation

We reveal the project to protect the keep of this unique medieval castle in Suffolk

66 Past lives

Princess Sophia Duleep Singh

Meet the suffragette who was Queen Victoria’s goddaughter

Cover image English Heritage performer Tom Fool breathing fire in front of Bolsover Castle in Derbyshire

THE BIG PICTURE

A new gateway to Roman Britannia

A reconstructed Roman gateway and rampart providing panoramic views has opened at Richborough Roman Fort and Amphitheatre in Kent. Standing 8 metres high, the gateway has been created on the exact spot of an original fortification built in AD 43 to defend the place where Roman forces landed in Britain.You can also see a new museum display featuring previously unseen objects that explores the site’s history, spanning Roman rule.The project was supported by The National Lottery Heritage Fund. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ richborough

Wild meadows to return at 100 sites

Meadows at 100 castles, abbeys, prehistoric stone circles and country houses will be enhanced or created over the the next decade to form a natural legacy at our historic sites. The project, launched to celebrate the coronation of Charles III and called The King’s Meadows, will establish flowerrich grasslands across England, restoring those that have been lost, and enhancing those that already exist.

Since the 1930s and the advent of post-war farming practices, the UK has lost 97% of its meadows. The creation of wildflower-rich grasslands will benefit nature – healthy grasslands are proven to tackle pollution and lock away atmospheric carbon below ground. They will also give visitors the chance to experience a once-common feature of our nation’s natural heritage. The project, which sees English Heritage joining up with the charity Plantlife, will create meadows at sites across the country, including at Stonehenge in Wiltshire and Down House in Kent.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/100-meadows

DON’T MISS…

Find out more about some of the best gardens to visit for free with your membership

www.english-heritage. org.uk/gardens

‘The creation of grasslands will benefit nature and tackle pollution’

Above Visitors enjoying the meadows at Grime’s Graves in Norfolk

Right Meadows at Kenilworth Castle in Warwickshire will be enhanced

Left Osborne on the Isle of Wight, QueenVictoria’s seaside home

JOIN THE CONVERSATION

Have you visited one of our sites recently? Whether you attended a Kids Rule! event or explored a fort on Hadrian’s Wall, we want to hear about your experience. Contact us on our social channels.

VISITS

instagram.com/englishheritage facebook.com/englishheritage twitter.com/englishheritage Eagle House, Bristol, BS1 4ST membersmagazine@ourmedia.co.uk

Tintagel Castle bridge to welcome millionth visitor

This summer marks another historic milestone at Tintagel Castle – the millionth visitor will cross its footbridge. Before the bridge was installed at the Cornwall property in August 2019, the two parts of the site were divided by a natural chasm, meaning that visitors had to climb more than 100 steps to reach

the cliff-top ruins. It is expected that the millionth person will make their way across the bridge later this summer. In the Middle Ages, Tintagel’s residents walked from one side of the site to the other using a narrow land bridge as high as the clifftops, but the crossing disappeared between the 14th and 17th centuries. The new bridge, which was supported by the Julia and Hans Rausing Trust, was named the overall winner at the 2022 Building Beauty Awards. www.english-heritage.org.uk/tintagel

MEMBERS’ REWARDS

Find our latest offers to make big savings at www.englishheritage.org.uk/ rewards

EXPERIENCES

Major Roman city’s stories revealed

Wroxeter Roman City in Shropshire – once the fourth largest city in Roman Britain – has recently reopened following an array of updates to the site’s visitor experience. A new audio tour, 3D objects and a series of panels with illustrated characters focus on Wroxeter’s heyday in the 2nd and 3rd centuries. A redisplayed museum highlights site finds never before shown, with personal possessions, jewellery and

FOOD

Enjoy

more revealing the daily lives of some of the people who lived here – including an elite couple, a market trader and a purported witch.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/ wroxeter

FREE GUIDES ON NEW APP

Download the new Bloomberg Connects app, on Android and iOS, for free guides to over 150 museums, galleries and cultural spaces, including some English Heritage sites. www.bloomberg connects.org

What better way to mark a visit to our sites this summer than with our new Georgianinspired brown bread ice cream? Created by award-winning ice cream manufacturer Marshfield Farm, it will be available at any of our sites that serve scoop ice cream. www.english-heritage.org.uk/top-tearooms

Curator of collections and interiors Louise Cooling on the 300th anniverary of Joshua Reynolds’ birth

Why was Reynolds such an important figure? During a career that lasted over fifty years, he transformed British art, creating portraits that engaged his audience’s imagination and emotions. He was also the first president of the Royal Academy, founded in 1768.

How many works by Reynolds can be seen at Kenwood in London?

Kenwood is home to an exceptional collection of 17 paintings by Reynolds, which span almost his entire career.

What will be happening at Kenwood to mark the anniversary?

We’ll be showcasing all 17 paintings as part of a trail around Kenwood, which explores Reynolds’ life and work, and investigates why Kenwood has so many works by Reynolds.

www.english-heritage.org. uk/kenwood

a taste of the past with our new ice cream

BLUE PLAQUES

The latest additions to our London blue plaques scheme

Explore the lost world of Witley Court with its new family trail

Five new London blue plaques have been installed this year, including two commemorating leading suffragettes. Emily Wilding Davison’s death at the Epsom Derby in 1913 led to her being revered as a martyr in the cause of votes for women. Her plaque marks the house in West Kensington where she lived around 1890. The daughter of the last Maharaja of the Punjab, Princess Sophia Duleep Singh was also an active suffragette. She lived in an apartment close to Hampton Court Palace, where her plaque is located. Turn to page 66 to find out more. Local politician and social reformer Ada Salter received a plaque in Rotherhithe, the pre-Raphaelite artist and model Marie Spartali Stillman is commemorated at her former home in Clapham, while the plaque to the Welsh-born preacher and radical Richard Price marks a Newington Green terrace that dates from 1658.

Visitors to Witley Court and Gardens can now enjoy a range of activities to enhance their exploration of the magnificent site. A new family trail will help capture chidren’s imaginations and guide them around the Worcestshire property and its array of stories. In addition, a new audio guide uncovers the site’s history, while updated interpretation panels provide further details on the house and its grounds. These new elements are all designed to ‘highlight the contrasting lives associated with Witley, looking at not just the wealthy

owners but also at where their money came from,’ says interpretation manager Georgina Bishop.

Witley Court was one of the great country houses of England. It was built in the 17th century and remodelled in Victorian times, when it was the setting for royal entertainments and

extravagant parties. After a devastating fire ripped through the Italianate building in 1937, it became one of the country’s most spectacular ruins, although it is still possible to gain a sense of the opulence and scale of the 19th-century interiors. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ witley

ALL THANKS TO YOU…

The essential conservation work taking place with your support as Members

MEDIEVAL CHURCH REOPENS

Following almost two years’ work, the conservation project at Temple Church in Bristol has been completed. In addition to urgent structural repair, the vestry was given a new roof. Learn more with our Conservation in Action van, which will be at the site on 11 and 12 September.The project was supported by the Julia and Hans Rausing Trust. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ temple-church

BISHOPS’ PALACE REOPENS TO VISITORS

Lincoln Medieval Bishops’ Palace has reopened following a £2.5 million project that has taken more than two years to complete.The investment will halt the decline of the palace’s stonework and help to stabilise it for the future.The project included 3D laser scanning, repair by stonemasons and the capping of ruined walls. www.english-heritage.org. uk/lincoln-medieval-bishopspalace

HISTORIC CHURCH TOWERS REPAIRED

Essential conservation work is now underway at the medieval church of St Mary at Reculver in Kent, where teams are repairing the stonework and replacing the roofs of its twin towers to stop rainwater getting in.The work is part of a wider £1.1 million project that began in 2020, which has also included repairs to the site’s Roman walls and the church’s west doorway.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/ reculver

ARCHAEOLOGY

See the latest excavations at a Neolithic burial chamber

Anew season of excavation is taking place at a Neolithic burial chamber in Herefordshire – and visitors to the site will have the chance to see archaeologists at work. Arthur’s Stone is more than 5,000 years old and today consists of the large stones of the inner chamber, once covered by a long earthen mound. It is hoped the excavations will be able

to examine parts of the chamber’s passage and show how it relates to the cairn. Other recent excavations have shown that the monument has many phases, which seem to span the period from around 3700 to 2900 BC. ‘The excavations at Arthur’s Stone are unravelling a complex story of how this farming community created an extraordinary monument to their ancestors and a meeting place that persisted for generations,’ says Win Scutt, senior properties curator. The excavation will be underway from 28 June to 26 July. To book on to a guided tour and see the excavations, go to: www.english-heritage.org.uk/ arthursstone

EXPERIENCES TO ENJOY AT OUR SITES THIS SUMMER…

Inspiration for things to see and do at our historic properties

SEE A VICTORIAN STEAM ENGINE

See the original 1845 steam engine operate at Stott Park Bobbin Mill in Cumbria from 26–28 August. www.english-heritage.org. uk/stottpark

ENJOY AN 1840 s FLOWER SHOW

Enjoy dahlia displays at Stonehenge (28 Sep–1 Oct), recreating fabulous flower shows from the 1840s. www.english-heritage.org. uk/stonehenge

EVENTS

Members can save 10% on tickets as

LEARN ABOUT BELSAY AT WAR

concerts return to Audley End

This summer sees the return of Heritage

Live concerts to Audley End House and Gardens in Essex – and Members can save 10% on tickets (offer applies on tickets purchased from 26 June to 26 July). Audley End was one of the greatest houses of early 17th-century England and its natural amphitheatre, to the rear of the house, today provides the perfect setting

for open-air concerts. The concerts include Abba tribute act Björn Again, with support from The Real Thing and Boney M (Friday 4 August); Tom Jones (Sunday 6 August); Soft Cell, Orchestral Manoeuvres in the Dark and Heaven 17 (Friday 11 August); and Razorlight and Embrace (Sunday 13 August). One more concert is to be announced. For details and to claim your discount on tickets, go to: www.english-heritage.org.uk/ heritage-live-reward

EXPERIENCE LIFE ON THE FARM

Book your tickets now for the new Victorian farm weekend at Boscobel House in Shropshire on 2–3 Sep. www.english-heritage.org. uk/boscobel

Immerse yourself in our Belsay at War event on 12–13 Aug, plus tours of Belsay’s military past. www.english-heritage.org. uk/belsay

TRY THE NEW PRIORY TRAIL

Visitors to Lindisfarne Priory can now enjoy a new family trail and a redesigned museum. www.english-heritage.org. uk/lindisfarne

With substantial savings across our entire collection, now is the perfect opportunity to transform your home and invest in Strachan luxury fitted furniture. Our wide range of designs include everything from bespoke bedrooms and walk-in wardrobes to hardworking home offices, elegant lounges and indulgent dressing rooms. So whatever your vision may be, our expert designers will help you realise it to perfection.

ANDREW HANN

Properties historians’ team leader

Most of us have our first experience of history at school, with a focus on kings and queens, politicians and generals. As children, we may have been dragged round country houses and learned about the aristocratic families who lived there. But in many ways the hidden stories of those behind the green baize door are far more varied and compelling. Every castle, monastery and great house required a retinue of servants and labourers, and their often untold stories offer us an insight into the everyday lives of ordinary people in the past.

At Audley End House and Gardens, the servants and estate workers take centre stage. In the Victorian service wing we tell the stories of the cook, Avis Crocombe, and her kitchen maids, who worked here in the 1880s. There are also displays in the laundries and dairy where visitors can learn about the working lives of servants in the late Victorian period. Upstairs in the nursery visitors can discover more about the lives of the young Neville children in the 1820s and ’30s, but also about the nurse maids and governesses who looked after them. Outdoors, an exhibition in the stable block introduces the gardeners, gamekeepers and other estate workers of the 1880s.

Servants’ stories are also a focal point elsewhere. The new garden interpretation at Wrest Park features head gardener John Duell, who was so esteemed by his employer, the Duke of Kent, that the duke had Duell’s portrait painted to hang in his house. At both Brodsworth Hall and Belsay Hall we have excellent oral history archives documenting the lives of former servants in their own words. At Osborne

Find out more about life below stairs at www.englishheritage.org.uk/ below-stairs-ataudley-end and listen to episode 103 of our podcast to discover more about working women at our historic houses www.englishheritage.org.uk/ podcast

there is gardener Thomas Warne – who lived at the Swiss Cottage and looked after the garden plots of Queen Victoria’s children when they were away –and his wife Louisa, who supervised the children’s cooking and dairying activities. Going back further in time we have Spernellus, bear-keeper to the Earl of Richmond at Richmond Castle in the 13th century, and John del Wardrobe, who looked after the clothes and tapestries at Warkworth Castle for the 2nd Earl of Northumberland in the early 15th century. Monasteries were also supported by an army of servants – some skilled craftsmen such as masons, others performing more menial roles like washing laundry, one of the few jobs performed by women.

What all these servants and retainers have in common is the vital role they played in supporting the functioning of the great estates on which they worked. Their stories are relatable as they often bear similarities to the experiences of our own ancestors. Learning more about their daily lives brings us closer to understanding our own place in the story of England.

The stories of household staff are some of our most compelling

‘The Duke of Kent hung a portrait of the head gardener at Wrest Park’

TOGETHER WE

WALK

There’s nothing more exhilarating than a day spent exploring England’s historic landscapes, but we understand the need to protect our most precious places too.

To help you brave the elements and prepare for new adventures in the great outdoors, we’re offering English Heritage Members a 15% discount. You’ll also be supporting English Heritage in the process as we’ll contribute a percentage of every sale for every purchase you make.

Plus, when you shop in-store, make the most of our expert services. Whether that’s a custom boot fitting, using our Repair & Care service to get kit looking like new or giving old kit a new home with our Recycle My Gear scheme.

15% discount in-store and online for English Heritage Members.

Code: AF-EH-N9 Expires 31.12.2023. T&Cs online.

Make the right choice with our in-store experts.

Lily and Andrew IN-STORE EXPERTS

Share your thoughts, experiences, tips and photos

Your say

Eagle House, Bristol, BS1 4ST membersmagazine@ourmedia.co.uk

Guiding lights STAR LETTER

This letter is not in praise of muchloved properties, though it could well be, but in praise of your guidebooks. They are works of scholarship, beautifully written, beautifully illustrated, referenced, with superb plans and always providing a wider context for what we see on the ground. I have collected them ever since the 1960s’ Ministry of Works black-and-white folded sheets were the thing, but the current incarnation is in a class apart from all other guidebooks I know.

My current passion is for monastic libraries, book lockers, cloister benches, refectory pulpits and all places where medieval manuscripts were written, read and kept. Your guidebooks are of inestimable value. Thank you, authors!

Katherine Hearn

how to fence at Bolsover, dressed up as soldiers at Landguard Fort, and had picnics among stone ruins and grassy earthworks. Best of all, young children have free entry. Membership is a super investment for all ages, but certainly a grandparents’ must-have.

Summer of fun

We joined English Heritage over the summer, triggered by a visit to Grime’s Graves. We could see that there were plenty of other places worth a visit dotted all over the country, so we decided to give it a try. The star performers have been the castles and fortifications, which made amazing days out for our grandchildren during the school holidays. We followed kids’ activity trails, learned

Astrid Gale

Please note that Grime’s Graves is currently closed for conservation work.

Our star letter writer receives a prize from Craghoppers – this issue it’s a 25 litre antitheft backpack worth £110. For a chance to win, simply send us an email for publication.

Horsing around

I was interested to read Win Scutt’s reply to the question in the last issue regarding the cleaning of the Westbury White Horse. However, I would doubt the veracity of his dates. The first time I cycled up to the horse and then climbed around the entire outline of the horse, the horse was of chalk. I wasn’t born in the 1930s! I would say that the horse was concreted over in the late 1950s.

Pat Hart

Win Scutt replies: Thank you for pointing this out. There is a record that the shape of the horse was defined by concrete in 1936 but it was not covered in concrete until 1957.

Wheel of fortune

In your Spring issue you asked for examples of any further donkey wheels around the country and I am writing to tell you about the donkey tower on our estate in Wrotham, near Sevenoaks, Kent. It is known as the Round House and is a donkey wheelhouse and water tower dating from around the late 18th/early 19th century. It still has the cogged wheel with the harness attached.

Julia Trace

Thanks also to the reader who got in touch to alert us to the donkey wheelhouse and 77 metre-deep well in Stanmer Park, East Sussex.

Nature lovers

It’s great to see nominative determinism at work with the brilliantly named Mr Hedges busy helping nature at English Heritage sites (Spring issue, page 13). Our family love using our life membership to connect with nature, especially because we live in a city with a postagestamp garden. Our 12-yearold’s first site was Avebury, aged about eight weeks old!

Liz Neale

Playing with fire

I have just finished reading the Spring issue and have planned all my visits for the year ahead. What has really caught my attention are all the attractions involving dragons. My interest is twofold: as an English teacher I am particularly interested in the Building a Dragon Adventure Story workshop at Kenilworth Castle but also, as an artist, I have a passion for drawing dragons. So I will be making a visit to the Wyvern Trail at Wrest Park looking for hidden wyverns. Age really doesn’t matter as far as imagination is concerned and it’s such a good excuse to head outside and explore more of your sites.

Lisa Betteridge

Send

Ask the experts

Brian Whorlow asks…

I understand that the cannons on the ramparts and outside the moat at Walmer Castle in Kent were captured from the French during the battle that occurred on the ‘Glorious 1st June’ (1794). Is this correct?

Paul Pattison, senior historian replies…

To have your questions answered, email us at membersmagazine@ ourmedia.co.uk

Diane Goodwin asks…

Who is the youngest person to have been awarded a blue plaque?

Howard Spencer, senior historian, blue plaques replies…

Hidden treasures

I’d just like to say thank you to all the staff and volunteers who gave us such an informative and interesting morning during the Behind the Scenes at Temple Cloud event. It was wonderful. Who would have thought that all those treasures were tucked away on a trading estate? This was my first Members’ Event but definitely won’t be my last.

Pamela Crummay

The eight guns on the bastions at Walmer are 32-pounders, made by Walker & Co of Rotherham. Their size and pattern indicate a late 18th or early 19th-century manufacture, and they bear the royal cypher of George III (r.1760-1820). They replaced eight French guns shortly after 1854. It was these earlier French guns, at Walmer from at least 1803, that were captured in action. Though I don’t know the origin of the story of their being taken after the ‘Glorious 1st June’ sea battle, it is plausible. The smaller guns outside the moat are English 6-pounders, not captured guns, made in 1812 by the Carron Co of Falkirk.

The present rule, which has been in place for about 50 years, is that a figure must have been deceased for 20 years at the point they can be considered by the awarding panel for blue plaques in London. So one answer is to find the shortest-lived blue plaque recipient. That doubtful honour belongs to the AngloFrench SOE agent Violette Szabo (pictured), who was just 23 when she was killed in the Ravensbrück concentration camp in 1945. Another approach would be to consider the ages of figures when they did the deeds for which they are celebrated. Those who participated in the recently commemorated Match Girls’ Strike of 1888, many of them not yet out of their teens, would score strongly on this basis.

MEMBERS’ AREA

The latest exclusive online content

Kids’ activities

Enter our latest competition, create papercrafts and more. www.english-heritage.org.

uk/kids

Listen

Explore

MEMBERS’ KIDS EAT FREE

To help you get even more value out of family days out this summer, we’ve launched our kids-eat-free offer exclusively for English Heritage Members. This money-saving initiative is available until 31 August 2023 at 30 participating English Heritage cafés across the country. These include those at many of our most popular sites, including Stonehenge in Wiltshire, Tintagel Castle in Cornwall, Dover Castle in Kent, Kenilworth Castle and Elizabethan Garden in Warwickshire, Bolsover Castle in Derbyshire, Beeston Castle and Woodland Park

in Cheshire and Belsay Hall, Castle and Gardens in Northumberland.

To qualify for this offer, you need to spend £10 or more in the café, show your membership card to our staff and you will receive up to two free kids’ lunch bags. What’s more, if you’re a Member in your second year (or longer) you can also benefit from using your 10% loyalty discount off your café bill.

Wherever your summer holidays take you, make sure you take advantage of all of the other money-saving benefits of your English Heritage membership. These include free access to our

historic sites for you and up to six children, free or reduced entry to our national events, an exclusive Members’ events programme, and free or discounted entry to our range of associated attractions across the British Isles and overseas. These include hundreds of sites cared for by other heritage organisations, such as Cadw in Wales, Historic Scotland and OPW in Ireland.

If you want to make further savings, please don’t forget you also have access to a range of discounted offers from many of the country’s biggest brands through our Members’ Rewards programme.

For full terms and conditions for our Members’-kids-eat-free offer, including a list of all 30 participating cafés across the country, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/ kids-eat-free

‘To help you save money on family days out this summer, you can get free kids’ lunch bags at our cafés’

Family days out at our sites are now even better value with our new money-saving offer this summer

Get the most out of your membership

Free or reduced entry to events

Plan your summer holidays with our events and enjoy all the action! Plus, you also have access to our exclusive Members’ Events taking place across the country, all year round.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/ events

Free entry for up to six children

Did you know your membership includes free entry to our sites for up to six children per adult Member? They just need to be under 18 years of age and within the family group. Perfect for extraordinarly good value days out.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/join

Free and discounted entry to associated attractions

Another benefit of membership is free or discounted access to our many associated attractions.These include everything from the Cutty Sark and Canterbury Cathedral to hundreds of historic sites across the UK and overseas.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/ associated-attractions

Following an £8.9 million project to conserve Belsay Hall, Castle and Gardens in Northumberland and create new experiences to share its stories, it’s the perfect time to explore this grand country estate and meet its most marvellous, mythical resident

BELSAY AWAKES

Belsay Awakes has been made possible thanks to National Lottery players and a grant of £3.4 million from The National Lottery Heritage Fund, as well as other generous donations.

This summer, something wild is stirring at Belsay Hall, Castle and Gardens in Northumberland. Following an ambitious two-year construction project that has seen a cast of collaborators complete essential conservation work, refresh the planting in its unique gardens and share its stories in new and innovative ways, the results are set to delight a new generation of visitors.

This sprawling country estate, which incorporates a medieval castle, a Greek Revival hall and 30 acres of outstanding gardens, has been almost continuously occupied by the Middleton family since the 13th century. However, its most profound influencer was Sir Charles Middleton, who inherited it in 1795 and adopted his wealthy grandfather’s last name, Monck. Following a two-year-long honeymoon to Greece, his designs for the new hall were inspired by his love of classical Greek architecture.

Sir Charles Monck also had a passion for plants and, after moving from castle to hall in 1817, began to develop the grounds. His innovations included exotic

imported trees, formal terraces, a garden in the quarry where stone was excavated to build the hall, and heated kitchen gardens. After Monck’s death, his grandson Sir Arthur Middleton took up the plantsman’s mantle, introducing rhododendrons, a Yew Garden and Magnolia Terrace.

The glory days ended with the dawn of war. In 1939, the army took up residence, furniture was removed and the gardens neglected. The family did return but moved out by 1962. In 1980, it was transferred into the guardianship of English Heritage and initial restoration work began. The Belsay Awakes project has been in the planning for more than a decade, with the last two years devoted to full-scale delivery at a cost of £8.9 million, boosted by a £3.4 million grant from The National Lottery Heritage Fund. More than 100 volunteers have given thousands of hours and the public has been involved at an unprecedented level.

‘Belsay Awakes is a complete reimagining of how this wonderful site is portrayed,’ said national project manager Cheryl Moore.‘It has been incredibly challenging but the team has worked together so well – it has been a model of collaboration.’ And what a team they assembled. Among those drafted in to offer their expertise was acclaimed garden designer Dan Pearson, who was tasked with refreshing the planting across the gardens, while illustrator Belle Mellor, in collaboration with Ross Ashton

Belsay’s Greek Revival mansion was created at the beginning of the 19th century

‘Belsay Awakes is a complete reimagining of how this wonderful site is portrayed’

STEVE SAYERS; TOM ARBOR

NEW FOR 2023

Stay and play

Creating a link between castle and woods, the new playground combines stories, landscape and magic with adventurous equipment for play and discovery. From the Little Wild One’s play area for toddlers to the Wild Man’s tree-top platforms accessed by wobbly bridges and climbing nets, it is designed to appeal to all ages.

NEW

FOR 2023

Rest and relax

The Coach House near the castle and play area has been transformed into a bright and welcoming new café and family hub, complete with renewable energy and rainwater harvesting.There are plenty of places to sit, including the castle lawn, a patio in the playground and the Coach House itself.The menu includes ploughman’s platters, soups with sourdough, and children’s lunches.

and Karen Monid, and scriptwriter Myles McLeod, have created a magical projected animation and soundscape for the castle. Just beyond the castle walls, craftsman William Hardie of Studio Hardie oversaw the creation of Belsay’s fantastical new play area. Its designs were inspired by the story of the Wild Man, a mythical figure that forms the Middleton family crest, which is also the star of the new Wild Man family trail.

First stop on the trail is the hall – a Greek Revival masterpiece, fronted by two towering, fluted columns. Step inside and you’ll find the Pillar Hall, a symphony of symmetry and detail. However, behind the grand façade was an inescapable design flaw. ‘Greek temples don’t like the Northumberland weather and the roof failed, so replacing it was a major part of the restoration,’ said Moore.

As the site needed to remain open throughout the project, special scaffolding was erected around the hall, allowing visitors to watch the work

taking place on hard-hat tours. These led visitors around the hall before returning them to ground level via a tube slide from the roof. From the hall’s grand entrance, a path sweeps towards formal terraces. This is the ‘tame’ end of the Wild Man trail, with a carefully curated mix of plant heights, textures and colours. ‘This area was incredibly overgrown,’ said head gardener Deborah Crombie, who worked alongside Dan Pearson on the garden restoration. ‘We had to fight our way through but the effort was so worth it.’

From the formal terrace, the trail leads into the Yew Garden, a pretty rectangle of green, and on to the Magnolia Terrace, flanked by banks of Mediterannean planting. This is Pearson’s ‘palate cleanser’ – the white and green of magnolia calming the senses between bright gardens and cool woodlands. ‘I haven’t gone for a cacophony of colour,’ he explained. ‘Colours are dilute but with impact, and they change as you move between spaces.’

Beyond the magnolias and a groomed croquet lawn is a door in a high stone wall. On the other side, sandstone rocks begin to rise on each side of the path, in

Right Site staff were helped by over 100 volunteers

Above The gardens are Grade I-listed and cover 30 acres

Younger visitors will love the new playground

a transition from formal planting into the wilder quarry gardens. ‘As the trail leads deeper into the quarry, the walls get taller, plants get bigger and you start to feel smaller,’ Hills explained. ‘It was Sir Charles’s way of playing with scale.’

In this section of the trail there is much to catch the eye – a stone carving, shallow steps to nowhere, a notch in a wall to a grotto of moss, lichen and cliffs. ‘The trail uses features to trigger your imagination,’ said Hills. ‘It’s about using what’s already there and building on it in any way you choose.’

Heading through a towering arch, you are then transported on a horticultural world tour. Persian ironwoods rise from a meadow, on the fringes is a 150-year-old magnolia tree, then a Japanese cedar, a tangle of vines from a Chinese gooseberry

NEW FOR 2023 Take the Wild Man Trail

This new trail focuses on the Wild Man of Belsay, a mythical figure used as the Middleton family crest. It leads visitors across the site and back in time, from the formal hall, through the gardens and on to the castle and the wild woods beyond.Wildlife walks will also be on offer, including dawn chorus bird walks and evening bat walks.

and a riot of rhododendrons creating a Himalayan jungle. Stepping through another door, the quarry walls tower higher, the air is colder and the sky seems to darken. The path twists and climbs gently until a magnificent tree frames the outline of the ruined medieval castle. Built as a refuge at a time of AngloScottish warfare, the 14th-century tower was extended in Jacobean and Georgian times to create a more comfortable residence. And it’s here, in a raw-stone chamber, where visitors finally get to meet the Wild Man through Belle Mellor and Myles McLeod’s animated film.

‘Belle’s style absolutely speaks to how we want to appeal to our family visitors – it’s fun, curious and tactile,’ explained interpretation manager Ruth Haycock. ‘The animation plays continously but it is turned off for the last hour every day to allow quiet exploration of the castle.’

This is just one of the many ways the Belsay Awakes project was designed to

NEW FOR 2023

Meet the Wild Man

Visitors finally get to meet the Wild Man in an immersive animation and soundscape on the castle’s ground floor. Created by illustrator Belle Mellor in collaboration with Ross Ashton and Karen Monid (The Projection Studio), and written by BAFTA winner Myles McLeod, the film is projected on to the wall of a chamber, for visitors to meet the Wild Man and learn about 700 years of Belsay history.

‘Visitors finally get to meet the mythical Wild Man of Belsay in a raw-stone chamber’

Right The herbaceous borders are at their best in the summer

Above The project transformed these formal terraces

The property hosts a wide range of events for families

improve accessibility across the site. Along with improved parking, pathways and toilets, new ramps have been installed throughout and information is visual, aural and tactile. A new audio description tour also combines factual information with descriptions of the environment. ‘We want all of our visitors to experience and enjoy this truly fantastic site, and we are committed to providing lots of different ways for people to do that,’ explained Haycock.

Within a scone’s throw of the castle is the Coach House café – another of the new additions this summer’s visitors will be able to enjoy. ‘The Wild Man trail will bring visitors here but we’re hoping the smell of coffee will lure them as well,’ said Moore. The café features sustainable

not to miss

Fantastic activities taking place over the summer at Belsay for the whole family to enjoy

technologies including solar panels, air-source heat pumps and rainwater harvesting. On the far side of the café is the final stop for families – the play area.

‘When I first visited Belsay I was utterly astounded,’ said playground designer William Hardie. ‘As you journey through the gardens you find doors, which lead you into entirely different landscapes. This magical experience had a profound influence on the play design.’

Nearest the café is the Little Wild One’s play area for toddlers but, as young visitors venture deeper into the woods, the equipment grows in size, culminating in the Wild Man’s lookout. ‘It’s pure adventure,’ said Hardie. ‘Visitors can traverse platforms, wobbly bridges and nets, climbing higher until they stand seven metres up in the canopies of the trees, with amazing views of the landscape beyond the gardens.’

To reach this point, intrepid visitors will have walked in the footsteps of the Wild Man, pushed their imaginations and experienced a horticultural voyage across the globe. The next time you are in the area, don’t miss the opportunity to explore Sir Charles Monck’s enchanting former home and embark on your own journey around this unique property.

Plan your visit

For more information or to plan a visit, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/belsay

Belsay at War

Sat 12 & Sun 13 Aug

This action-packed weekend propels you into wartime Britain. Explore living history encampments and have the chance to train as a new recruit.

Legendary Joust at Belsay Hall

Sat 26–Mon 28 Aug

See lances shatter, feel the thunder of hooves and hear the roar of the crowd as four legendary knights compete in this grand medieval joust.

Band Sundays at Belsay Hall

Sun 3, Sun 10, Sun 17 & Sun 24 Sep

Bring along your deck chairs and relax with an afternoon of superb music when the region’s finest brass bands perform in the grounds of Belsay Hall.

Above The family trail leads visitors around the property

Left The dramatic Quarry Garden plays with scale

‘Doors lead you into entirely different landscapes. It’s a magical experience’

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Going by ferry removes the hassles of flying, from being able to pack all you need

to checking in from the comfort of your own car. There’s plenty of space on board and only fresh sea air is circulated in all areas, including cabins.

IT’S NOT TOO LATE TO GET AWAY TO FRANCE OR SPAIN THIS SUMMER!

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Tom Fool

English Heritage performer Tom Fermor at Bolsover Castle

I would describe my role at English Heritage as a purveyor of mirth, delivering fun experiences for visitors. I first got into fooling at university. I trained as a physical theatre performer and so clowning and silliness went hand in hand. I started commentating at various special events for English Heritage and the events team thought that I had a flare for silliness, so I started to train specifically as a fool under the expert tutelage of master fool Peet Cooper, who performs as Peterkin.

The difference between fools and jesters is that jesters are somewhat professional, they have set skills and journey from town to town. A fool is a calling – rather like a priest. People first started performing as fools way back when powerful leaders preferred to be surrounded by plainspeaking mirth-makers. We know Chinese Emperor Qin kept a fool as there’s a model of one in his terracotta army. By the 17th century, however, fools started setting up their own troupes, performing wherever there was money to be made.

The popularity of fools peaked during the Middle Ages, when fools were part of the royal court. Notable fools include Henry VIII’s fool, Will Sommer, who seemed to stand the test of time. He also enjoyed success with Henry’s son Edward, as well as Mary and Elizabeth I. Roland le Peteur (Roland the Farter) was a popular performer in the court of Henry II. Robert Armin started to bridge the gap between what we would consider a medieval fool and a modern (Elizabethan) performer, serving both the court and the wider populace. When the theatre became popular, fools, jesters or jongleurs started performing on the stage, which marked the end of the era of the resident fool.

I would describe my act as an amalgamation of the ‘natural fool’ of the medieval period and the jester of the Elizabethan period, with a pinch of the Victorian music hall artist. Sometimes the jests of the medieval fool lose their lustre and appeal, while the

Above Breathing fire in front of Bolsover Castle Facing page Making an entrance as only a fool can Below Taking time out between shows

perceived wit of the stand-up comedian is more attractive to our modern sentiments. So I have to try to entertain visitors with a range of different styles, with more than a healthy nod to the foolish pioneers of the medieval world.

The highlights of my shows (if there are such things) would be the mania on stilts, the danger of a catapult and foolishness with fire. To find out what that actually means, you’ll need to come and see me perform. Don’t worry if you can’t make one of my shows, as there is a tiny army of us fools performing at English Heritage sites across the length and breadth of the country.

The best thing about performing to English Heritage crowds is togetherness, acceptance and playfulness. Any visitors coming to our events for the first time should expect not merely to watch a silly show but perhaps also be ready to be involved. After all, stultorum plena sunt omnia (fools are everywhere).

See it for yourself

For details of our events, including those at which Tom will be appearing, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/events

INTERVIEW MATT HAVERCROFT PHOTOGRAPHS JOSEPH BRANSTON

‘My shows have more than a healthy nod to the foolish pioneers of the medieval world’

Bask in winter sun in the Canaries

Beat those winter blues and save 5% on a luxurious no-fly cruise to the Canary Islands. Choose from a host of destinations and enjoy unforgettable excursions, fine dining and more

End the year on a high by basking in winter sun in the Canary Islands as part of a luxurious cruise with Saga. Exclusively available to those aged 50 or over, you’ll be able to step aboard one of Saga’s sleek sister ships, Spirit of Adventure or Spirit of Discovery. Each carries fewer than a thousand passengers and, with one crew member for every two guests, you can be sure of superior service.

From the comfort of your boutique hotel-style cabin, all of which have balconies, you’ll wake up to a different island each day

(except for sea days). All of Saga’s Canary Island voyages call at the ‘floating garden’ of Madeira, Lanzarote’s laid-back capital Arrecife and the black sand beaches of Tenerife, plus destinations such as La Palma and the historic maritime city of La Coruña. In addition to complimentary onboard dining across a range of restaurants, allinclusive drinks are also included in your fare. Plus you’ll also have access to free Wi-Fi across the ship and travel insurance is included, while gratuities and service charges are already paid for.

In selected ports of call, you’ll be treated to a complimentary panoramic excursion. Saga also offers an exciting array of additional excursions to suit every kind of traveller. From guided hikes to whale watching, there’s something for everyone.

Not only that, the VIP treatment begins before you even step onboard, with a door-to-door chauffeur service available for anyone living within 250 miles of their departure port.

Your exclusive offer

English Heritage Members can save 5%† on any Saga cruise, including all those mentioned here. To book or request a brochure, call 0800 096 5570 quoting ‘ENGHE’ or visit saga.co.uk/heritage

LIFE AT SEA

You’ll relish days at sea as much as those on land thanks to Saga’s varied programme of onboard activities.

CHOOSE YOUR CANARY ISLANDS CRUISE

SUNSHINE IN THE CANARIES

31 October, 13 nights

After hopping round the popular trio of Tenerife, Gran Canaria and Lanzarote, this cruise rounds off with a stop-off at Lisbon, Portugal’s charismatic capital. Must-sees are the UNESCO-listed 16th-century Jerónimos Monastery, where Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama is entombed, and the striking Belém Tower built in his honour.

CANARY ISLAND QUINTET

24 October, 14 nights

Tick off five of the Canaries, including Fuerteventura and its bustling port of Rosario.Traverse the island on an excursion to the ancient Ajuy caves and journey back through the island’s geological history. Celebrity chef Kevin Woodford joins onboard for a live cookery demonstration and Q&A.

CAPE VERDE AND THE CANARY ISLANDS

13 November, 21 nights

Continuing a southerly course, this three-week cruise sails on to the volcanic archipelago of CapeVerde – calling at Santiago and SãoVincente – before returning to the Canaries. On the way home, you’ll dock in ancient Cádiz on mainland Spain, western Europe’s oldest continually inhabited city.

‘From the comfort of your cabin, wake to a different island each day’

LECTURES AND QUIZZES

WEST END-STYLE SHOWS

STEAM ROOM AND SPA

SPECTACULAR LIVE BANDS

rui

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Warkworth Castle and Hermitage, Northumberland

Crowning a hilltop in a loop of the river Coquet, 12th-century Warkworth Castle was once among the biggest, most impressive castles in northern England and chief residence of the equally formidable Percys – one of the most powerful families in the region during much of the Middle Ages.

Don’t miss…

Embark on one of five new interactive quests around the castle grounds, each guided by a different character. Whether you decide to help John del Warderobe find the earl’s missing robe or patrol the castle with William Stowe, you’ll discover the daily life of your chosen character as you trace Warkworth’s story. And keep your eyes peeled for the lions – the Percy family’s emblem – carved throughout the castle. To complete your adventure, take a walk beside the river followed by a boat trip to discover the Hermitage (open on selected days), a medieval chapel carved out of the rock. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ warkworth

If you like this, you’ll love this… Richmond Castle, North Yorkshire

If you enjoyed getting acquainted with characters from across history, you’ll love the imaginative displays at Richmond Castle featuring people from the castle’s past. Find out how generations of residents lived as Richmond’s story is brought to life.

Framlingham Castle, Suffolk

Built in the late 12th century by Roger Bigod, Earl of Norfolk, Framlingham remained home to the Dukes of Norfolk for more than 400 years until passing into the hands of Mary Tudor, who was proclaimed queen at the castle. Framlingham later became a prison and fell into disrepair, before finding life as a home for the poor with the addition of a 17th-century workhouse.

Don’t miss…

March across the magnificent wall-top walkway as you admire the spectacular views over the Suffolk countryside. In the workhouse, explore the varied lives of people of Framlingham’s past – rich and poor – by trying on a host of historical hats and playing a game to discover what they ate.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/ framlingham

If you like this, you’ll love this… Rochester Castle, Kent

If Framlingham’s massive curtain walls leave you in awe, a visit to 12th-century Rochester Castle and its imposing great stone keep is a must. Standing almost 40 metres high, it’s the tallest Norman keep in England. Climb the spiralling steps to the roof for breathtaking views.

stories of various characters

GOOD JOURNEY SCHEME

Find out how to reach our sites on public transport at www.englishheritage.org.uk/ days-outwithout-a-car

years ago

Above There’s lots for younger visitors to explore during a day at Framlingham Castle

‘Trace Warkworth’s story and discover the daily life of your chosen character’

Above left An interactive trail reveals the

Left Exploring the great tower, which was built more than 600

Above One of the sculptures that forms part of the Warkworth quests

Beeston Castle and Woodland Park, Cheshire

Standing high above the Cheshire Plain, Beeston Castle was built by Ranulf, Earl of Chester in the 1220s and seized by Henry III shortly after. But the crag it sits on has an even longer history: evidence for human activity dates back to the Neolithic period and suggests Beeston was an important Bronze Age metalworking centre. The crag later became the site of an Iron Age hillfort whose banks and rock-cut ditches were incorporated into the medieval fortress we see today.

Don’t miss…

Climb up the hill to the inner bailey, where you’ll be rewarded with perhaps the most spectacular views from any castle in England. Peer into the castle well – over 100 metres deep – where Richard II’s lost treasure is said to be buried. Immerse yourself in Beeston’s 4,000-year story in the Castle of the Rock exhibition and reconnect with our Bronze Age ancestors in the extraordinary replica roundhouse. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ beeston

If you like this, you’ll love this… Scarborough Castle, North Yorkshire

Scarborough Castle is another hilltop fortress boasting a prehistoric past – and spectacular views. Discover artefacts spanning 3,000 years and soak up the sweeping panoramic views from the viewing platforms.

Carisbrooke Castle, Isle of Wight

Dominating the heart of the island, Carisbrooke Castle has been a key stronghold on the Isle of Wight for more than 1,000 years. Built shortly after the Norman conquest and later remodelled as an artillery fortress, the castle has seen many changes over the years and has an equally colourful history of residents – most notably the defeated King Charles I, who was imprisoned here following the Civil War

Don’t miss…

Young explorers will love creating adventures in the grounds, conquering the cobbled steps and narrow walkways. Play bowls on Charles I’s bowling green and see the room in which he was held captive. In the gatehouse, kids can step into the shoes of a medieval soldier by dressing up in armour and firing a mini cannon. Head to the well house to meet the castle’s donkeys. Donkeys once worked the tread wheel to draw water from the well. Their modern-day counterparts now provide demonstrations of the wheel every day the castle is open – although their duties are much lighter than they were in the past. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ carisbrooke

If you like this,

you’ll love this… Totnes Castle, Devon

This is another classic example of a motte-and-bailey castle, established after the Norman conquest to subdue the Anglo-Saxon town. Climb to the top of the keep for stunning views over Totnes, before relaxing in the grounds. See if you can spot the ‘graffiti’ carved on the trees by prisoners during the Second World War.

Explore more than 1,000 years of history at Carisbrooke Castle

Above Head up the inner bailey for spectacular views – and a very deep well

‘Kids can step into the shoes of a medieval soldier and dress up in armour’

Pendennis Castle, Cornwall

This coastal castle was built by Henry VIII to guard the Fal estuary and access to the ports of Penryn and Truro, sharing the task with its sister fortress, St Mawes. Pendennis has been updated in the face of changing conflicts over its four-century history, even playing a vital role in the First World War as a base for local coastal defence.

Don’t miss…

The Castle Explorers trail is the perfect way for families to embark on a day of discovery at Pendennis. Kids will love exploring the keep’s maze of rooms and twisty stone staircases, soundtracked by wartime drama as gunners rush to their stations after spotting a suspected enemy ship. In the recreated battery observation post, scan the horizon for enemy ships and listen in on telephone conservations. There’s also a soft play area where kids can let off steam, while adults kick back with a Cornish cream tea in the café. To make the most of your day out, you can then take a ferry across the estuary to visit St Mawes Castle. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ pendennis

If you like this, you’ll love this… Deal Castle, Kent

Built shortly before Pendennis, Deal Castle was among the first of Henry VIII’s chain of device forts built to defend England’s south coast. These early device forts share their distinctive circular keeps, designed

Capture the castle

to allow tiered, all-round defence. Kids will delight in defending the castle as they roam the underground tunnels armed with a replica musket. Nearby is Walmer Castle, a pleasant 30-minute stroll along the seafront.

Looking for some Instagram insipration? Here are four of our most photogenic castles – the perfect locations for taking stunning social media-friendly snaps

Bolsover

Castle, Derbyshire

The grand exterior of the 17th-century Little Castle vividly catches the light on sunny days, creating a yellow-tinged glow on the stonework to stunning effect. Or the wall paintings in the Heaven Closet and Elysium Closet are among the most dramatic castle interiors you’ll see.

Dover

Castle, Kent

The imposing Dover Castle looks good from almost any angle but for a classic castle silhouette, try photographing it as you approach the main gatehouse. For close-up shots, keep an eye out for intriguing details and hidden nooks inside the Great Tower, which also has a lavish recreated medieval interior.

Dunstanburgh

Castle, Northumberland

These enigmatic ruins, perched on a remote, wave-battered headland, make a great focal point for rugged landscape images. Indeed, you’ll be in good company in taking inspiration from the site – many artists have also created depictions of the castle, including JMW Turner.

Old Wardour Castle, Wiltshire

While your eye can’t help but be drawn upwards as you approach the castle, for memorable photographs try instead climbing the stone steps of the east tower, where you’ll be rewarded with stunning views of the lake and countryside beyond, framed by the castle walls.

Above Pendennis Castle is one of a handful of circular artillery forts built in the 1540s

‘Explore the keep’s maze of rooms and twisty stone staircases, soundtracked by wartime drama as gunners rush to their stations’

Carlisle Castle has has been continuously occupied since 1092

Carlisle Castle, Cumbria

For 500 years, until the English and Scottish crowns were united in 1603, Carlisle Castle was England’s chief point of defence on the north-western border with Scotland. During this time it endured 10 sieges, approaching an English record. First established in 1092 by William II and later rebuilt under Henry I, the castle is where Mary, Queen of Scots was held prisoner by order of her cousin Elizabeth I. Unusually for a medieval fortress, the castle remained in working use well into the 20th century, most recently as the headquarters of the King’s Own Royal Border Regiment.

Don’t miss…

Step into the Warden’s Apartments, once the bedroom of Richard III, and see the stair turret of the tower where Queen Mary was kept captive. Explore the castle keep and marvel at the hundreds of mysterious 15thcentury stone carvings thought to have been carved by bored prison guards – can you spot George and the

Dover Castle, Kent

Established by William the Conqueror shortly after the Battle of Hastings and later transformed by Henry II, Dover Castle takes the crown as the most iconic medieval fortress in England. Dover later played a vital role in the defence of Britain in the First World War and was central to the evacuation of hundreds of thousands of troops from Dunkirk during the Second World War as the headquarters of Operation Dynamo.

Don’t miss…

An entire day of family adventure throughout the centuries awaits at Dover. Explore the grandeur of Henry II’s Great Tower and its vividly recreated rooms, and imagine life as a king or queen. Don’t forget to climb to the top for unrivalled views across the Channel. Journey back to the First World War in the Fire Command Post, where you can try your hand at morse code messaging and learn how to spot enemy ships. Underground, kids will love exploring the Secret Wartime Tunnels, which bring the dramatic story of the Dunkirk rescue to life.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/dover

Dragon, Richard III’s boar badge and the mermaid? In the former Regimental Institute, Cumbria’s Museum of Military Life tells the story of both world wars. www.english-heritage.org.uk/carlisle

If you like this, you’ll love this… Etal Castle, Northumberland

Further east, and also close to the Scottish border, stands another fortress that was built as a defence against raiders in the mid 14th century. While you’re here, hop over to the nearby Flodden Battlefield – the site of English victory over James IV’s invading Scots army in 1513.

If you like this, you’ll love this… Pevensey Castle, East Sussex

The landing place of William the Conqueror’s army in 1066, this Roman ‘Saxon Shore’ fort-turned-medieval castle also found itself as an emergency stronghold in the Second World War. Look out for the machine-gun posts that are camouflaged into the castle walls and see a recreated 1940s commander’s office.

Above There’s a huge amount for children to see and do during a day at Dover Castle

Above Throughout its history, Carlisle Castle endured a total of 10 sieges

‘Mary, Queen of Scots was held prisoner here by her cousin, Elizabeth I’

ALONG THE RIVER OF GOLD

Discover the beauty of the Douro Valley aboard the MS Amalia Rodrigues 31st May to 7th June & 10th to 17th September 2024

The Douro is not the longest, grandest or most historic of Europe’s rivers, but it certainly is one of the most untouched and beautiful From its meagre beginnings in the hills north of Madrid it makes its way through Northern Portugal in a meandering flourish to the ocean and the endlessly fascinating city of Oporto Our cruise aboard the 110-passenger MS Amalia Rodrigues offers the opportunity to sail this delightful river and experience some of the local flavour. Where vessels once laden with barrels of port drifted to Oporto, we will cruise along this lovely river, relaxing on board whilst admiring the beautiful passing scenery and stopping each day for fascinating excursions

Our navigation of the Douro will take us from Oporto on a wonderfully scenic path, past sleepy villages and a tranquil countryside of almond and citrus trees to just before the Spanish border. From here we will visit Spain’s ancient seat of learning, Salamanca with its grand buildings in rich copper hues and the country’s most magnificent square, Plaza Mayor Along the way we will visit the world renowned port wine region, restored palaces, places of pilgrimage and cultural centres Small towns and settlements perched on the sloping hillsides of the region have retained an aura of Medieval simplicity, its many tiny communities, largely agricultural, clustering round historic churches, monasteries and castles

MS AMALIA RODRIGUES is an elegant and well-designed vessel with a modern feel that offers a tranquil atmosphere in which to relax and enjoy the picturesque panoramas of the Douro There are 66 cabins on board which are located over three decks, and have a bright airy feel Cabins on the Middle and Upper Decks boast French balconies Public areas include the lounge bar with floor to ceiling windows, and the Sun Deck with comfortable loungers and some tables and chairs under a shaded area Breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner are served in the stylish restaurant which seats all passengers in one sitting Drinks are included during meal times, and are also available until late in the Lounge Bar In addition to the excellent crew, our Cruise Director and Tour Manager, you will be joined by a Guest Speaker who will deliver informative and interesting lectures on board, adding to your enjoyment of the cruise and interest of the area

£200 PER PERSON

THE ITINERARY IN BRIEF

Day 1 London to Oporto, Portugal Fly by scheduled flight Upon arrival transfer to the MS Amalia Rodrigues and embark This evening meet your fellow travellers at the welcome dinner

Day 2 Oporto This morning there will be a guided tour of Oporto, Portugal’s second largest city and a World Heritage Site This attractive city was originally a Celtic-Iberian settlement and became a prosperous Roman village thanks to its natural harbour During our tour we will drive through its narrow streets to find 16th century arcaded buildings, Baroque churches and chapels, as well as the city’s iconic 19th century iron bridge, built by the school of Gustav Eiffel We continue along the coastal road of the Atlantic to the mouth of the Douro River to view this wealthy neighbourhood with its fashionable villas and manor houses Our final visit will be to the city’s cathedral, located on the top of the Penaventosa Hill Inside are beautiful examples of golden carved altarpieces and paintings from the Nasoni period, whilst outside we will enjoy the amazing view over the river The tour will conclude with a visit to a port wine lodge where we will see the old casks full of port and enjoy a sample of this delicious world famous wine Return to the ship for lunch and enjoy a relaxing afternoon on board

Day 3 Regua. From our mooring at Regua we will visit the unique 18th century Mateus Manor House and its gardens This fine looking palace and gardens is still owned by the Count of Vila Real and is one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in Portugal

On our guided tour of the Palace we will see the “ rare books” library, vestments and religious icons and view the remarkable chestnut wood crafting on the ceilings, as well as some beautiful paintings from the 17th and 18th centuries Stroll around the romantic gardens which feature a unique 100 foot long cedar tunnel and formal garden and visit the villa’s pretty chapel Return to the vessel which will have sailed to Tavora to meet us Enjoy lunch on board and continue cruising towards the Spanish border

Day 4 Salamanca, Spain Today we will enjoy a full day tour to Salamanca, a Spanish city rich in culture and tradition Salamanca has been famous as a seat of learning since the early 13th century and has an impressive history, with many fine monuments and architecture The city attracts around 40,000 international students each year,

giving it a cosmopolitan and modern feel Our guided tour will include the University, House of Shells and the classic Plaza Mayor, formally a bullfighting site We will also visit the Gothic “New Cathedral” which was actually constructed in the 16th century, replacing the original 12th century Salamanca Cathedral After lunch in a local restaurant, enjoy some free time to explore independently Maybe visit the Casa Lis (the Museum of Art Nouveau and Art Deco), or simply stroll through the plazas and side streets of this delightful city Return later to the vessel for dinner

Day 5 Almeida & Foz Coa Museu, Portugal. There will be a choice of excursions today, maybe drive to Almeida, one of the finest examples of a ramparted fortification still standing in Portugal The fortress was built in the 17th century to surround a Medieval castle and, when seen from above, has the appearance of a 12 pointed star Strategically located on a plateau just 12 kilometres from the Spanish border, it featured in many historic battles during the Wars of Restoration as well as the French invasions of the 19th century We can explore the narrow streets that preserve the historic atmosphere inside the town as well as walking the fortress walls Alternatively, we will make our way to the Coa Museum which celebrates the prehistoric art of the Coa Valley The Coa is a tributary of the Douro where thousands of examples of ancient rock art have been discovered from the Upper Paleolithic, Neolithic and Iron Age and the region has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Day 6 Pinhao, Douro Valley Enjoy a leisurely morning on board as we cruise to Pinhao, located in the heart of the Douro Valley The region is one of the oldest demarcated wine regions in the world with a microclimate perfect for grape cultivation An afternoon drive takes us through steep terraced vineyards that stretch up the riverbanks and which boast breathtaking views Visiting one of the local Quinta we will learn about the production methods, and will have the chance to sample some of the local wines

Day 7 Lamego. Sail early this morning towards Folgosa where we will disembark and enjoy a half day, morning excursion to the historical and charming town of Lamego This city houses one of the most important places of pilgrimage in Portugal - the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies Built in the

second half of the 18th century over the remains of a 14th century chapel, it is an excellent example of Portuguese Baroque style It is wonderfully decorated with enormous panels of blue and white tiles, with an impressive staircase of nearly 700 steps During lunch on board we sail back to Oporto crossing the Crestuma-Lever dam On our final evening we will be entertained by a Portuguese folklore show on board

Day 8 Oporto to London. Disembark after breakfast and transfer to the airport for the return scheduled flight to London

PRE-CRUISE PORTUGAL EXTENSION

26th to 31st May & 5th to 10th September 2024

If you would like to spend some more time in Portugal we are offering a five night extension with the opportunity to tour Lisbon, Sintra, Coimbra, Tomar, Guimaraes, and Braga We will discover the majestic architecture of Lisbon, visit Sintra National Palace, explore the charming city of Coimbra and the beautifully preserved Medieval centre of Guimaraes as well as spending time in Braga Full details can be viewed online

PRICES & INCLUSIONS

Special offer prices per person based on double occupancy start from £2795 for a Category E Main Deck cabin Cabins for sole use from £3295

WHAT’S INCLUDED:

Economy class scheduled air travel • Seven nights aboard the MS Amalia Rodrigues on a full board basis • All-inclusive drinks from 10am to 11pm (please note that premium brands & sparkling wines are not included)

• Shore excursions • Noble Caledonia onboard team including Guest Speaker • Gratuities

• Transfers • Port Taxes • Airport Taxes

NB Ports and itinerary are subject to change All special offers are subject to availability Travel insurance is not included in the price Our current booking conditions apply to all reservations

ON THE KNIGHT SHIFT

Heading to Kenilworth Castle in Warwickshire, novice knight Stuart Heritage discovers what goes into performing at our action-packed summer events

Aband of 15th-century knights, bearded and weary, stands among the ruins of an ancient castle. Heaving for breath in the spring sunshine, they eye each other suspiciously through the thin slits in their heavy helmets. In a moment they will all turn on each other, raining down blows with heavy wooden cudgels in an orgy of chaos. But for now, their leader stands frowning. The words he is about to choose will directly influence everything that will happen next. He takes a moment to weigh up his options and then, in a voice clear and loud and enough to be heard by all, intones the following words:

‘Rush Hour. No! Wait! Rush Hour 2!’ Instinctively, his soldiers understand the command, and start attacking each other accordingly. But why is a battlehardened medieval knight invoking the name of a Jackie Chan action-comedy film series? Because they are all re-enactors and the castle is in Kenilworth in the year 2023.

What happens next is known as the Grand Melee, the climax of the of the Knights’ Tournament – a day-long medieval combat event that takes place before the crowds at various English Heritage sites throughout the summer. In this version of the Grand Melee, two knights find themselves surrounded by several enemies, and have to batter their way to safety. If the leader had shouted X-Men instead of Rush Hour 2, however, then the knights would have simply charged directly at each other, like superheroes from a 1990s cartoon series.

The Grand Melee is an important component of the Knights’ Tournament experience. Throughout the day, a team of nine knights and squires will have battled each other in various disciplines that vary in levels of choreography, and they will have been listening to see which knights the crowds are pulling for. Before the melee begins, the team will work out a play-by-play for the finale, designed to end the day on a note of perfect dramatic satisfaction, although some of the performers know their roles from the

‘Instinctively, his soldiers understand the command, and attack each other accordingly’

PHOTOGRAPHS OLIVER EDWARDS

Above Our intrepid writer Stuart (on the right) tries his hand at sword fighting

Right Visitors can meet the knights in their medieval encampment outset. ‘We’ve usually got a bad guy who makes himself known throughout the day, usually by calling everyone peasants,’ explains Jay McCabe, before sighing, ‘I’m giving you all my trade secrets here.’

Even with some staged elements, it’s nevertheless heavy-going work to clobber people while dressed in armour. You can see it when the knights finish their final demonstration and slump to the ground exhausted. You can easily take this sort of effort for granted. Were you to arrive at an English Heritage property on a day when a Knights’ Tournament is taking place, you’ll see the knights waiting to greet you as the site opens. The bulk of the day, of course, is spent clanking great lumps out of each other in a variety of grisly ways. And then, when the locations close at the end of the day, you’ll see them waving goodbye to you, still wearing all their finery. These are long, hard, hot days. The weight of the armour is nothing compared to the heat inside the suits, since plate metal wasn’t exactly designed for its ability to wick away sweat.

‘When you think about visiting a castle, you also want to meet the characters from the past who bring the place to life,’ says events manager Ella

Harrison. ‘Our knights are brilliant at putting on a show for all the family. They really do get spurred on when the crowd are chanting and waving their flags. You also learn about life in medieval England, getting up close to history.’

But still, my knight mentors for the day don’t think I know exactly how uncomfortable their armour is, so they call me over to their tent to try on some of it myself. This is why I am conclusively able to confirm that I would not make a very good knight at all. A squire begins by tying me into a harness. My arms, elbows

and shoulders are shackled with metal plates. I wriggle ungraciously into a chain mail mini-skirt. A chest plate that weighs as much as my youngest son is tied to my front, and a thick metal bevor is placed around my neck. Finally, a huge helmet is lowered on to my head. It feels like someone has erected an iron lung around me. It is unbelievably claustrophobic and I want out. Then Jay hands me a sword.

I’m not required to do much with it: a couple of parries and blocks with a knight called Tom. Child’s play, really. But after a couple of practice attempts, I feel like I’ve run a marathon with a cow on my back. I am unbelievably worn out. I have been in the suit for a maximum of 30 minutes. The performers, remember, do this for an entire day.

Then someone mentions the Battle of the Barriers and I cannot get out of the suit quickly enough. I’ve heard the other knights mutter among themselves about

Below Jay begins the process of strapping armour on to Stuart’s arms

Bottom A young visitor tries out their sword skills as a knight looks on

‘The weight of the armour is nothing compared to the heat inside the suits’

Two knights, clad in their full regalia, face off against one another

Two knights, clad in their full regalia, face off against one another

it, and it sounds brutal. Two knights stand facing each other, clasping long hammer-topped staffs. They only have one aim: to smack their opponent hard in the head. This event, Jay tells me with a grin, isn’t choreographed at all. They’re protected to some degree – they wear padded gauntlets and the hammers are 3D-printed plastic – but they do really go all-out to batter each other for real.

One of the knights, Richard, has only been performing with this crew for a year, and he tells me of the fear he felt ahead of his first go at the Barriers. Another, Chris, tells me how a stray blow to the back of his head all but knocked him unconscious. Samuel, a knight with eight years of experience under his chain mail mini-skirt, sidles up to me and confesses that everyone hates the Barriers. ‘Except for Jay,’ he whispers with a grin.

The Battle of the Barriers is followed immediately by the Crest Melee, in which

Medieval mayhem

Three of our must-see knight events coming to a site near you

Knights’ Tournaments

Watch our brave knights compete for glory in different disciplines, including hand-to-hand combat and archery competitions. Plus you can also immerse yourself in a medieval encampment.

the knights take turns trying to bash feathered rods from the top of each other’s helmet with the same hammer staffs. What makes this one so exciting is that the winner stays on. ‘It’s so tiring. The more you win, the more tired you become,’ explains Jay. ‘And then someone will come in fresh, and it gets really tactical. You’ll see the two knights really trying to psych each other out.’ Again, this one happens for real.

This is the sort of stuff that can’t be replicated. Watching two adults, weighed down with metal, stalk around each other with unrehearsed trepidation puts you inside the moment like nothing else. Yes, the outfits are cool. Yes, the fighting is fun. But watching the knights react to the violence like actual human beings is worth the price of admittance alone. Honestly, it’s the closest I’ll ever come to being inside a history book.

Discover more

To learn about the history of medieval knights, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/ brief-history-of-knights

Legendary Jousts

See lances shatter, feel the thunder of hooves and hear the roar of the crowd as reputations are won and lost in an unforgettable display of chivalry and sheer courage.Who will you cheer on?

Clash of Knights

Experience an all-action contest as teams of knights battle it out for victory armed only with clubs and shields, strength and skill. Budding knights can also take part in drills to put their own skills to the test.

For details of participating sites for all three events and to book your place, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/events

Bottom Jay and new recruit Richard take a breather between the demanding events

Right The tournament’s most brutal moment is the Battle of the Barriers

The Crest Melee and its fearsome hammer staffs

Explore the great outdoors in style

Enjoy a glamping getaway this summer and save 10%

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need on your self-catering holiday, including cosy beds, fully equipped kitchens and comfortable seating –plus much, much more. Some of the glamping tents even feature their own private bathroom and shower.

Pick from nine fantastic coastal settings: unwind on Cornwall or Devon’s golden beaches, trek the rugged Jurassic coast, cruise through the Norfolk Broads, or step back into the Victorian era at the Isle of Wight’s vintage seaside resorts. Wherever you stay, you’re only a short stroll or drive away from the beach.

Back on site, there’s plenty more to get stuck into: make a splash in the pool, enjoy activities from mini golf to archery, and let the kids run wild in the adventure playground or soft play area.

By night, kick back with a cocktail and a dazzling line-up of live entertainment.

If the excitement of the day has left you feeling worn out or you just fancy a spot of quiet time, your tranquil retreat is never far. Sit back, relax and soak up the last of those balmy summer evenings from your home away from home.

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‘Pick from nine coastal settings, from Devon to the Norfolk Broads’

Chinese wallpaper, Wrest Park, Bedfordshire

Of all the treasures looked after by English Heritage, our collection of wallpapers is one of the least known.Wrest Park is home to some of our finest examples. On the south front of the house, a bedroom and dressing room are filled with an exquisite handpainted Chinese wallpaper from the 1790s. It originally furnished a drawing room in the old house at Wrest, but was painstakingly removed prior to that building’s demolition in the 1830s and reused by the Earl de Grey in his newly built mansion. For much of the 20th century, when Wrest Park was home to the National Institute of Agricultural Engineering, it was boarded over for protection.When the institute closed in 2006 and English Heritage took over the house, it was once again revealed for the enjoyment of visitors. Take a short walk down the corridor to another bedroom and you’ll encounter a vivid French block-printed wallpaper from the 1840s. Printed using 1,554 different blocks, it is believed to be the only complete set in the country. It’s said the earl had the room specially decorated with this wallpaper in 1851 for his granddaughter’s honeymoon.

Take a tour…

For more information on wallpaper tours at Wrest Park, or to book a tour of Wrest Park’s stores, go to our website at www.english-heritage.org.uk/wrest

WORDS PETER MOORE PHOTOGRAPHS DAVE CAUDERY

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LAND OF THE ANCIENTS

With English Heritage becoming the new guardian of Thornborough Henges, a Neolithic complex in North Yorkshire, properties historian Jennifer Wexler reveals the secrets of our prehistoric stone circles and henges

THORNBOROUGH HENGES

NORTH YORKSHIRE

On a raised plateau above the river Ure lie the unique triple henges of Thornborough Henges. These three huge, identical circular earthwork enclosures were built at the same time around 4,500 years ago, and are aligned along a north-west to south-east axis, stretching out over a mile. Each henge is about 250 metres in diameter.

Thornborough Henges sit in an ancient, ritual prehistoric landscape, marked by different monuments, running from Ferrybridge to Catterick – an ancient forerunner to the A1. Originally, the henges would have stood on a low

promontory overlooking wetlands as a prominent landmark – the massive circular banks, up to four metres high, were covered in white gypsum and would have been visible for miles around.

The skyscape of Thornborough may be key to understanding it. The high banks of each henge would have blocked views of the surrounding landscape for the people standing within them, and the entrances may have aligned with the rising of Sirius, the sky’s brightest star in the constellation Canis Major. The southern entrances of the northern and central henges also aligned with the midwinter solstice sunrise. This was part of a wider practice of orientating Neolithic monuments to the solstices, including the passage tomb at Newgrange in Ireland and the stone circle of Stonehenge in Wiltshire.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/ thornborough-henges

‘The skyscape of Thornborough may be key to understanding it’

EXPLAINER

What is the difference between a prehistoric stone circle and a henge?

In the later Neolithic period, from around 5,300 years ago, new types of monuments – henges, stone and timber circles – were constructed by early farming communities across Britain.These monuments reflect the changing religious, political and social practices of their era.

A henge is simply a circular space enclosed by an outer bank and an inner ditch. Unique to the British Isles, henges are a type of monument that started to appear at the end of the Neolithic period, from around 3300 BC, and continued to be used into the early Bronze Age, primarily for enclosing ceremonial spaces or monumentalising important places.The earliest henges may be connected to burial practices. An example is the first phase at Stonehenge, dating from 3000 BC, which held the cremated remains of more than 100 individuals.

Henges sometimes contained stone or timber circles, which developed around the same time. A new type of pottery called Grooved Ware and an elaborate feasting culture arose in connection to these monumental sites and spread across Britain over the next 500 years or so. Henges and circles were the most sacred prehistoric sites. Communities at this time were living dispersed, pastoral lifestyles, so these monuments would have served as key places of gathering and connection within the landscape.

STONEHENGE WILTSHIRE

Stonehenge is the world’s best-known ancient stone circle, and the jewel in the crown of English Heritage’s ancient sites. Built around the same time as the Great Pyramid in Egypt, 4,500 years ago, the monument of massive sarsen stones was unlike anything found across Europe. Stonehenge lies at the heart of one of the richest archaeological landscapes in Europe. It is one of four major Neolithic ceremonial complexes — along with Avebury, Dorchester, Marden, and Cranborne Chase/Knowlton — that occupy the chalklands between the Thames Valley and the south coast.

Not only was the monument altered and rebuilt multiple times, it is part of a much larger complex of sites. Neighbouring sites such as Woodhenge and

CASTLERIGG STONE CIRCLE CUMBRIA

Perhaps the most dramatically sited of all British stone circles, Castlerigg is situated on a high plateau, encircled by the epic peaks of Skiddaw, Blencathra, High Seat and Helvellyn. It is in a natural amphitheatre and a place of gathering, as much today as it was 5,000 years ago, at the heart of the Lake District.

Durrington Walls were built as Stonehenge’s sarsen ring was constructed. Like Stonehenge, the Woodhenge and Durrington monuments were aligned with summer and winter solstices. People gathered there in midwinter for feasting and celebrations, a crucial time when the sun’s return was thought to hang in the balance.

Pilgrims likely embarked on a choreographed route to Stonehenge, perhaps starting at Durrington then travelling by boat along the river Avon, arriving at Stonehenge for sunset. The contrast between the construction materials used at Stonehenge, Durrington and Woodhenge may reflect contrasting symbolic domains, with perishable wood for the living and permanent stone for the ancestors. www.english-heritage.org.uk/ stonehenge

Castlerigg is one of the earliest stone circles in England, dating from around 3200 BC. The reason the site developed so early was likely because the Lake District was the source of a key resource to Neolithic communities – stunning green stone

from the Langdale Pikes. This stone was specially quarried to make the most beautiful polished axes. These were objects of wonder and prestige that were traded widely across the British Isles. Axes from these magic mountains were possibly inspired by the even rarer green jadeite axes that came from Monte Viso in the Italian Alps.

Undoubtedly, access to and control of this special resource would need to be negotiated, and perhaps Castlerigg played a key role as the gateway into the Lake District. www.english-heritage.org. uk/castlerigg-stone-circle

‘Built 4,500 years ago, the massive monument was unlike anything across Europe’

The stone circle at Stonehenge dates from about 2500 BC

Above Castlerigg Stone Circle, which overlooks the Thirlmere Valley in the Lake District, is among the earliest British circles

Avebury is the most complex of Britain’s surviving Neolithic henges

AVEBURY WILTSHIRE

Avebury is one of the most evocative ancient sites in Britain, found just 19 miles north of Stonehenge. Dating from the late Neolithic period, c.2850–2200 BC, this massive ceremonial complex survives as a huge circular bank and ditch, now enclosing Avebury village. Within the henge is, at 332m wide, the largest stone circle in Britain. It originally contained around 100 stones, enclosing two smaller circles.

While the origins of Avebury are still somewhat of a mystery as it has been investigated far less than Stonehenge, a recent discovery has offered an intriguing clue. Archaeologists identified a mysterious square structure at the heart of the southern inner circle. Investigations

ARBOR LOW STONE CIRCLE DERBYSHIRE

Arbor Low is the most important prehistoric site in the Peak District and East Midlands. About 4,500 years ago, people laboured together on this hilltop to build an extraordinary stone circle, surrounded by a huge ditch and bank. They created a special location, a world apart – a place for their gatherings and ceremonies in this atmospheric setting. A stone circle of 40 upright slabs of limestone was built in the centre, which has long since fallen. Several centuries later, a mound, or barrow, was fashioned from its bank.

Inside was a stone chamber containing a cremation, accompanied by two early Bronze Age food vessel pots and a bronze pin. Intriguingly, one of these vessels closely resembles a Neolithic-style pot, possibly referencing the sacred roots of the site.

Nearby is Gib Hill Barrow, a massive burial mound with a similar multi-layered history. This is actually two Neolithic and Bronze Age mounds, built one on top of the other about 1,000 years apart. www.english-heritage.org. uk/arborlow

have shown that this was the remains of an ancient house dating back to c.3700 BC, probably more than 700 years before the first circle was built at Avebury. This house may have been viewed as the ancestral home of the community living near Avebury, which eventually became an important shrine that inspired the vast monument we see today. While this may seem unusual, other early stone circles, such as the Stones of Stenness on Orkney, also seem to monumentalise an earlier house structure. Key to understanding both henges and stone circles is that they mark important historical memories within the landscapes.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/ avebury

‘About 4,500 years ago, people laboured to build this extraordinary stone circle’

Above Arbor Low and Gib Hill form one of the most impressive prehistoric complexes in the Peak District

Following years of research and trials, a £1million conservation project has just been completed at Orford Castle in Suffolk to safeguard and protect this much-loved local landmark for

Following years of research and trials, a £1 million conservation project has just been completed at Orford Castle in Suffolk to safeguard this much-loved local landmark

WORDS HARRIET COOPER WORDS HARRIE T COOPER O DS H RIE O P R

It might have been cold and grey when I arrived in the coastal village of Orford in Suffolk, but nothing could detract from its pretty market square, rose-covered cottages and cosy café. At its heart is Orford Castle, which has recently undergone a £1 million repair and conservation project. As I clapped eyes on the 27 metre-high polygonal tower keep, it rather took me by surprise. The thick exterior walls, once exposed stone, are now covered in a layer of ochre-coloured render. It certainly stands out against the overcast sky.

Changing the aesthetic of such a historic site is not a decision that was made lightly. After all, the castle is a unique piece of medieval architecture, built between 1165 and 1173 by Henry II. ‘Up until that point, there were no royal castles in Suffolk,’ explained head properties curator Jeremy Ashbee. ‘Henry wanted to flex his muscles and look like a king, so he built a castle on the quayside that anyone sailing in or out could see.’

Three types of stone were used during the construction: Caen stone from Normandy, Barnack stone from Lincolnshire, while most of the castle was

built from septaria, a mudstone sourced from nearby estuaries. The issue with septaria is that it is a soft stone – when exposed to the elements it becomes brittle and breaks easily, something that had been happening over time due to gusting winds, rain and sea spray.

‘The castle walls were crumbling away,’ explained Joseph James, national project manager. ‘If we’d left them, they would have kept eroding.’ It was evident this much-loved local landmark needed safeguarding and investigations into how to stabilise the walls began in 2008.

A specialist team was brought on board – including architectural practice

Below left A Traditional lime render was applied to protect the walls

Above Information on hoardings around the castle explained what was happening

Carden & Godfrey and contractors PAYE Stonework and Restoration – and a series of trials undertaken to ascertain the method and materials to use. Rebuilding the entire castle was not a viable option, neither was replacing eroded septaria with new septaria or grouting all the many cracks. It was decided that applying a traditional lime render over the deteriorating septaria would be the best long-term course of action. Rendering the walls would create a breathable layer that would protect the septaria, while also allowing any trapped moisture to escape.

The consistency and colour of the mortar were scrutinised at length – the end result contains oyster shells and sand, which gives the render its yellow tinge, a hue that will mellow with age. The undulating surface of the render was also considered, and the fact that some of the original stonework peeks through it.

‘The castle has a very special character. We wanted the render to follow its contours as much as possible,’ explained project architect Olga Vladić-Weal of Carden & Godfrey. ‘If the original stonework was too proud, we were very happy for it to naturally come through the render. We felt this would help people read the history of the castle.’

Interestingly, there is evidence to suggest the castle was, in fact, rendered when it was built all those centuries ago.

‘Henry II wanted to flex his muscles and look like a king, so he built a castle on the quayside that anyone sailing in or out could see’

Scaffolding went up around the castle in February 2022

The castle’s unique polygonal keep has been protected for generations to come

‘We found lime render on the walls in various patches,’ said Jeremy.

That said, the team is keen to highlight that this was a conservation project first and foremost. They were not trying to recreate what the castle might have looked like, but rather preserve it. ‘While we have probably recovered something of the historic appearance of the tower, the prime motivator was to protect the castle now and for future generations,’ added Jeremy.

The work began at the start of 2022, with a scaffold structure going up around the tower in February. Render doesn’t like extreme cold, so the project had to

be completed before winter set in, plus there was a budget to consider. A team of up to 15 stone masons worked seven days a week, carrying out repairs before ‘harling’ or throwing on the render and working it into the walls in one layer.

Although the core part of the project was the masonry, the contractors also made improvements to the castle’s windows and leadwork, replaced the asphalt roof, replastered the ceilings and redecorated the railings at the entrance. ‘Ten months to complete a project this extensive was quite an achievement,’ said Alex Towle, PAYE’s contract manager.

What makes it even more impressive is that the project did not come without its setbacks. Largely, the unpredictable weather. As well as dealing with 120mph winds, the summer of 2022 was a scorcher. ‘Temperatures got to over 40 degrees,’ explained Alex. ‘You don’t want a mortar to dry out and cure too quickly as it will crack. We had to keep the moisture in the mortar by pinning damp hessians to it and spraying the facades with water three or four times a day.’

After almost a year of hard work, it was quite a moment when the last bit

Below left Improvements were also made to the castle’s windows

Above The castle was intended to curtail the power of East Anglian barons

of scaffolding was removed and the castle’s new look was revealed. ‘We were all in the car park looking back up at the castle. We were a bit nervous, standing there watching, and a lady who lived in the village stopped and said how wonderful it looked and we all let out a deep breath,’ said Olga. Indeed, the local community has been involved throughout, joining scaffold tours and chatting with the contractors on-site. The feedback throughout has been positive.

‘Everyone loves Orford Castle – it’s a very rich cultural site. It has lots of interesting nooks and crannies and the interpretation is brilliant. It’s important that the experience of looking at the outside of the building should be correspondingly good,’ said Jeremy. ‘We feel really pleased that as well as safeguarding the future of the castle from further decay, we’ve actually made it as handsome as it should be.’

As I left, I turned around for a final glimpse of the castle. The sun had come out and shadows danced across its newly rendered walls. ‘It looks different every day you come here,’ said Joseph. ‘We haven’t lost the visual impact of the castle, but now it’s protected for years and years to come.’

See it for yourself

For more information or to plan a visit, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/orford

‘It looks different every day you come here. We haven’t lost the visual impact of the castle, but now it’s protected for years to come’

A summer of savings

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Make it a summer of hobbies

For decades, Hornby, Scalextric, Corgi, and Airfix have been household names, bringing joy to both children and adults. Whether you’re starting a new hobby or restarting an old favourite, take advantage of our 5% discount across every range.

SAVE

Peace of mind when travelling

Feel like getting away from it all for a while? You’ll enjoy your next holiday even more when you’ve got quality travel insurance, designed to suit your individual needs – especially if you have pre-existing medical conditions.

Visit the land of the giants

Get closer to nature than you imagined on a Hurtigruten expedition cruise. Choose from a range of adventures, including a voyage to the Galapagos Islands, where you’ll find a land of remarkable creatures from giant tortoises to scaly iguanas.

Get that brand-new car feeling

Drive away a brand-new car for less with Motorfinity Corporate. Save up to 30%, with a fantastic range that includes Audi and Toyota. With a five-star service and an ‘excellent’ Trustpilot rating, Motorfinity Corporate is your one-stop shop.

To redeem all of these offers and more, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/rewards

Is your conservatory TOO HOT in summer and TOO COLD in winter?

WARMER IN WINTER

“There is no doubtthe conservatoryis muchwarmer, and not darkereither!”

DavidBirch, Chichester

TRANSFORMED CONSERVATORY

“We’reso proud ofour transformedconservatory thatwehaverecommended GreenSpaceto many of our friends andrelatives.”

Mr and Mrs Davies Somerset

COOLER IN SUMMER

“You could havefriedan egg on the tablein therein the summer,I nowlook upon the conservatory asanew room. It is quiet, restful andcosy.”

Carol Doyle, Surrey

REDUCES ENERGY BILLS

“I’ve alreadyturned the underfloor heating down. Lovelyjob guys, thankyou!”

AnneBird, Bristol

QUIETER IN BAD WEATHER

“For thefirst timewe do nothavetoclose the door totheconservatory when it rainsto hearthe TV.”

Mr & Mrs Bailey-Webb, Warsash

Mr

Wells

Extraordinary summer events

Get out and about with our events and activities taking place across the country, from archaeology at Stonehenge to Roman life on Hadrian’s Wall. For complete listings, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/events

Whether you’re staying close to home or travelling further afield, we have a fantastic events programme for you this summer. Younger Members will love our Summer Explorer Quests, which are taking place from July to September at sites across the country. Also taking place over the summer, at properties that include Dover Castle in Kent, Eltham Palace in London, and Framlingham Castle in Suffolk,

is Medieval Season, where you can find out what life was like in the Middle Ages with everything from jester workshops to squire training. Head back even further in time at our exciting array of Roman-themed events, including The Romans Return at Wroxeter Roman City in Shropshire. Or at Stonehenge in Wiltshire, budding archaeologists can take part in our Stonehenge Kids’ Dig, with the chance to unearth artefacts from across the centuries in our special Stonehenge sandboxes.

Unmissable events across the country

Also on the digging front, keen gardeners won’t want to miss the BBC Gardeners’ World Autumn Fair at Audley End House and Gardens in Essex in September. Slightly further ahead, our epic Battle of Hastings re-enactment takes place at 1066 Battle of Hastings, Abbey and Battlefield in East Sussex in October. More than 500 re-enactors bring this momentous battle to life. For further details and full listings of all our events, go to our website at: www.english-heritage.org.uk/events

LEGENDARY JOUST

Experience the exhilarating spectacle of speed and skill as four legendary knights compete in our medieval jousts. Our fearless fighters will charge at each other at full speed in an unforgettable display of chivalry. The jousts take place on various dates in July and August at sites that include Bolsover Castle in Derbyshire, Kenilworth Castle in Warwickshire and Scarborough Castle in North Yorkshire.

CLASH OF KNIGHTS AND KNIGHTS’ TOURNAMENT

This July and August will see a slew of knight-based excitement taking place at castles across England. At our Clash of Knights events, brave teams of knights battle it out for victory armed only with clubs and shields. Meanwhile, our Knights’ Tournaments see rival knights compete with swords for a coveted place in the grand melee finale.

PIRATES!

Set sail this summer for Carisbrooke, Dover, Pendennis or Scarborough Castle and get ready for an adventure on the high seas. See some of history’s most notorious pirates fight it out, listen to them tell their tales of bounty and barnacles, and enjoy shows, demonstrations and activities.

Sat 2 Sep, 9.30am–1pm

Battlefield Walks:

The Battle of Towton (1461)

Towton, North Yorkshire Y

Bookings open on 3 July

Members’ Events

Meet our experts and enjoy special access to sites as part of these events, which are held exclusively for Members. For full listings, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/members-events

Sat 15 Jul, 11am & 2pm City of London: Urban Jungle St Paul’s station, London L

Join Nick Collinson and hear tales of quarrelsome queens, supernatural stones and brimming burial grounds, and see how London has become one of the most biologically diverse capital cities in the world.

£20. Access: moderate

Sat 12 Aug, 11am & 2pm London’s Lost Rivers: Following the Fleet King’s Cross station, London L Now underground, the river Fleet was instrumental in the formation of old London. Join Nick Collinson as he leads a guided walk along the lower reaches of the subterranean waterway. £20. Access: moderate

Wed 30 Aug, 10.30am–12.30pm

Explore the relatively unchanged site of what may have been the bloodiest battle on English soil, when Edward IV’s Yorkists inflicted a terrible slaughter on their Lancastrian opponents. £22. Access: challenging

Wed 6 Sep, 11.30am–2pm

Blue Plaque Walk: Hampstead and Frognall

Hampstead underground station, London L

Join historian Dr Susan Skedd on a guided walk around the streets of Frognal and Hampstead and discover where some of the area’s most celebrated inhabitants lived and worked. £25. Access: moderate

Thu 7 Sep, 11am–12.30pm

625 Years of Mount Grace Priory

Mount Grace Priory, North Yorkshire Y

Our expert curatorial team will take you on a tour of the centuries-long history of the best-preserved Carthusian priory in England, and reveal what makes the priory so unique. £18. Access: easy

Sat 12 Aug, 10am

Battlefield Walks: The Battle of Cheriton (1644)

Cheriton, Hampshire SE

Julian Humphrys of the Battlefields Trust leads this walk around attractive Hampshire countryside, the site of one of Parliament’s first major victories of the English Civil Wars.

£30. Access: moderate

Discover: Victorian Manchester St Peter’s Square, Manchester NW Explore Victorian Manchester and discover public sculpture, gothic masterpieces and evidence of the vast wealth for the few that existed alongside the overcrowding for the many. £22. Access: moderate

Fri 8 Sep, 11am–1pm

Battlefield Walks: The Battle of Flodden (1513) Branxton, Northumberland NE

Take a walk around the site of this fiercely contested battle, which saw the defeat and death of King James IV of Scotland at the hands of an English army under the Earl of Surrey. £22. Access: challenging

Discover:Victorian Manchester

625 Years of Mount Grace Priory

‘Join this London walking tour and discover tales of quarrelsome queens and supernatural stones’

Sat 9 Sep, 11am & 2pm

Great Fire of London Monument underground station, London L

Join Nick Collinson as he tracks the most destructive fire in London’s history. Hear eye-witness accounts as you explore the medieval lanes that succumbed to the sparks from a baker’s oven. Understand why the fire got out of control and who paid for the disaster, which resulted in 70,000 people being made homeless.

£20. Access: moderate

Sun 10 Sep, 10.30am

A Tour Inside Framlingham Workhouse

Framlingham Castle, Suffolk EE

Join us for an exclusive tour inside Framlingham workhouse. Learn more about the history of this 18th-century institution and the conditions inside, including diet and work. Hear stories of the inmates’ lives, which have been uncovered by our team of research volunteers.

£18. Access: moderate

Thu 14 Sep, 10am–12pm & 2pm–4pm

Hull Walking Tour

Queen Victoria Square, Hull Y

Join us on a walk of the historic centre of Hull. Find out about its maritime heritage, its magnificent architecture and the characters that made it such a thriving, vibrant and radical place to live.

£22. Access: moderate

Thu 21 Sep, 11am–1pm

An Exclusive Tour of the Franciscan Gardens & Eastbridge Hospital

Canterbury, Kent SE

Step back in time for a tour of the historic 12th-century Eastbridge Hospital, a place of hospitality for travelling pilgrims, and the beautiful Franciscan Gardens, home to the first friars sent over by St Francis in 1224. Plus chat to our team about the plants grown in the medieval cutting garden.

£20. Access: moderate

Tue 26 Sep, 11.30am–12.30pm

Monuments and Memorials at Apsley House Apsley House, London L

Join us at Apsley House for a walking tour that will shed light on the many monuments and memorials surrounding this iconic London building. Standing in the heart of London, Apsley House is the former home of the Duke of Wellington.

£10. Access: moderate

Sat 30 Sep, 10am–12pm, 12.30pm–2.30pm & 3pm–5pm Cloth Window Workshop

Gainsborough Old Hall, Lincolnshire EM

Get involved with a hands-on cloth window-making workshop led by expert craftspeople, detailing the history and techniques used in this historical artform.

£45. Access: easy

City centre walking tour

Wed 4 Oct, 11.30am–2pm

Blue Plaque Walk:

Notting Hill

Holland Park underground station, London L

London’s blue plaques scheme, founded in 1866, is believed to be the oldest of its kind in the world. Join historian Dr Susan Skedd on a guided walk around the streets of Holland Park and Notting Hill and discover where some notable former inhabitants lived and worked. Find out about the lives of artists, scientists, writers and more.

£25. Access: moderate

Thu 12 Oct, 10.30am–12.30pm

Discover: Rebels & Radicals

St Peter’s Square, Manchester NW

Join Manchester tour guide Emma Fox and discover the radical and rebellious side of the city that is home to The People’s History Museum. Hear stories of Manchester’s reformers, pioneers, abolitionists, rule breakers and plotters.

£22. Access: moderate

Sat 14 Oct, 11am & 2pm

Black History in the Square Mile St Paul’s station, London L Black African and Caribbean influences have been integral to the formation of England’s rich history. Walk with Nick Collinson in the oldest part of London and explore the long-hidden narratives in the City, including the influence of African architecture and stories of black freedom fighters.

£20. Access: moderate

Cloth Window Workshop

Monuments and Memorials at Apsley House

Tour guide Mark Lakeman inspires visitors to the south west with tales of ancient settlements, faerie kingdoms and haunted castles

Iam a regional tour guide based in south Devon and have been showing visitors the south west’s historic sites for more than a decade. The majority of the people on my tours are from North America, as the region frequently features in their family trees, and seeing old English castles is often high up on their wish lists. They’re particularly interested in places such as Tintagel Castle in Cornwall, with its association to the legend of King Arthur, and the 15th-century Berry Pomeroy Castle in Devon.

Berry Pomeroy is the grandaddy of all English haunted castles, with more than enough ghost stories to spook visitors. People are fascinated when they discover that the castle has only been owned by two families in its entire history and is still owned by the Seymour family today. Ancient sites, such as the Bronze Age settlements of Grimspound and Merrivale on Dartmoor, and the stone circles of Stonehenge and Avebury, absolutely blow the minds of international visitors. Our ancient history is well preserved and cared for and this inspires them to want to return to see more of them.

Unusual questions pop up on every tour. They range from enquiries about how ancient sites were constructed to asking about the toilet habits of kitchen staff in castles. I once delivered a tour to a global collection of faerie believers, who wanted

DID YOU KNOW?

Berry Pomeroy Castle was intended to become the most spectacular house in Devon, but it was never completed and was abandoned in 1700. It is still owned by the present Duke of Somerset, a direct descendant of the Berry Pomeroy Seymours.

to visit locations they understood as being gateways to the faerie kingdoms and the underworld they all live within.

Throughout my schooling I was never one for history but local history is a totally different story. It’s something you can see and experience for yourself, whether you’re gazing at the course granite of a Dartmoor standing stone and wondering who set it in place nearly 5,000 years ago, or walking through the ruins of a medieval castle, where the air is so clean and the moss is such a deep green it feels like you’re on a film set. Delivering the south west’s history to overseas visitors is a hugely rewarding job, and I hope I am able to continue to amaze, inspire and enthral my guests.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/southwest

‘Our ancient history blows the mind of international visitors’

‘Questions range from how ancient sites were constructed to toilet habits’

This image Mark Lakeman outside Berry Pomeroy Castle Top left Merrivale Prehistoric Settlement on Dartmoor

20 questions

Test your knowledge of the links between our sites and the summer months

1 What was the purpose of this large wooden contraption at Osborne (pictured below)?

7 The Broadwalk at Walmer Castle was created for tennis and which other game?

8 Can you identify this seaside priory in Tyne and Wear?

13 This garden (pictured below) was named after which member of the royal family?

Log into the Members’ Area at www.english-heritage. org.uk/quizzes to check your answers

17 What was unusual about the tennis court at Down House in Kent?

18 The gardens at Eltham Palace feature London’s oldest working what?

2 In the summer of 1575, which queen did Robert Dudley entertain at Kenilworth Castle?

3 Which outdoor game did Charles I enjoy while imprisoned at Carisbrooke Castle on the Isle of Wight?

4 Women’s rights activist Emmeline Pankhurst was born in July of which year?

A 1837

B 1858

C 1891

9 What tourist-friendly facility opened in 1890, was renamed Bolsover Castle in 1950 and closed in 1978?

10 A garden of which northern country house is thought to have been inspired by the quarries at Syracuse in Sicily?

11 A cave at Tintagel in Cornwall is named after which legendary figure?

14 Can you unscramble the name of this grand Essex mansion, where a cricket pitch was laid out in 1842?

GREYHOUND DUDE EASED ANNALS

15 The Target House in the garden of Brodsworth Hall is part of an area that was used for what sport?

19 The reign of which 20th-century monarch is sometimes seen as an untroubled ‘Indian Summer’?

5 Can you identify this coastal castle (pictured above)?

6 Garden designer William Andrews Nesfield described the gardens at which property as his ‘monster work’?

12 The sun rises behind which stone at Stonehenge during the summer solstice?

16 What is the name of the ancient Celtic festival that marked the end of summer?

If you don’t have internet access, please contact our customer services team on 0370 333 1181 for the answers

20 When does this Chinesestyle summer house at Wrest Park (above) in Bedfordshire originally date from?

A c.1760

B c.1820

C c.1930

Princess Sophia Duleep Singh at Hampton Court

Daughter of a maharajah; goddaughter to Queen Victoria; battling suffragette. Princess Sophia Duleep Singh was all of these things and more. The image that brought her to this biographer’s attention, and would eventually end up on a Royal Mail stamp in 2018, shows a handsome Edwardian lady in a fur coat, selling copies of a militant suffragette newspaper outside Hampton Court. It seems incongruous in so many ways but so was Sophia’s life.

Born in Belgravia in 1876, Sophia was the youngest daughter of Maharajah Duleep Singh. When Duleep was just a boy, officials of the East India Company forced him to sign over his kingdom, his future and his Koh-i-Noor diamond. This act remains such a source of consternation in India that the diamond has been removed from the crown of the Queen Mother, which Queen Camilla wore at this year’s coronation.

Sophia’s sisters abhorred the British ruling elite, referring to Queen Victoria as ‘Mrs Fagin – the receiver of stolen goods’. Sophia, in contrast, remained close to her godmother. Her ‘coming out’ took place at Buckingham Palace, and Victoria granted her a grace-andfavour home at Hampton Court. The building was endowed with a blue plaque in May to mark her residency.

A trip to India in 1903 turned Sophia from society darling to ‘Hampton Court harridan’. She travelled to India secretly to attend Delhi Durbar celebrating King Edward VII’s coronation. The trip

awakened a political consciousness in her because she drifted into the orbit of Indian nationalists, saw all her family had lost, and experienced racism for the first time.

Upon her return to England, Sophia threw herself into the suffragette cause, joining the militant Women’s Social and Political Union (WSPU). She soon became a leading member, refusing to pay taxes and driving press carts through London. So vexatious was her behaviour that King George V exclaimed, ‘Have we no hold on her?’ Sophia was determined to be arrested

and almost got her wish on 18 November 1910, after she led the suffragette march on parliament. The authorities did not want to make a martyr of her, so arrested her and set her free.

In the 1934 edition of Who’s Who, Sophia submitted just one line. Under ‘interests’ she wrote simply, ‘The advancement of women.’

Discover more

To learn more about our London blue plaques scheme, go to our website at www.english-heritage.org.uk/blue-plaques

‘ Her trip to India in 1903 awakened a political consciousness’

WORDS ANITA ANAND ILLUSTRATION SUSAN BURGHART

How this blue plaque recipient went from society darling to suffragette

TIDE AND TIME WON’T WAIT

Thanks to your generous support for our coastal conservation appeal, a major programme of works is now being rolled out to protect vulnerable coastal heritage sites affected by coastal erosion and rising sea levels. Look out for a further update in the next issue of your Members’ Magazine. With your help, we can continue to protect, conserve and carry out critical maintenance at our most vulnerable coastal sites.

To donate, go to www.english-heritage.org.uk/coast

THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT

Hurst Castle, Hampshire

The English Heritage Trust is a charity, no. 1140351, and a company, no. 07447221, registered in England.

Garrison Walls, Isles of Scilly

Tintagel Castle, Cornwall

Piel Castle, Cumbria